The backed fabrics are those types which employ a face and back weave alternatively on the two

sides of
the cloth. These weaves may be of a reversible or non reversible nature. These types of fabrics are
mainly constructed for two purposes :
(i) Increasing the warmth retaining qualities of the cloth
(ii) Secure a greater weight and substance that can be acquired in a single structure which is equally
fine on the surface.
A heavy single cloth can only be made by using thick yarns in conjunction with which it is necessary
to employ only a comparatively few threads per unit space. A heavy single texture appears to be coarse
in appearance. By interweaving threads on the underside of a cloth it is possible to obtain any desired
weight combined with the fine surface appearance of a light single fabric.
The purpose of inserting threads in forming a back to a face fabric is only to give additional weight.
One of the advantages of the backed construction is that the extra weight can be obtained in an
economical manner, since material which is inferior to the face yarns may be used on the underside.
Backed cloths are constructed on both the backed weft and backed warp principle. In the case of warp
backed cloth there are two series of warp threads and one series of weft threads, and in the case of weft
backed cloth there are two series of weft threads and one series of warp threads.

The construction of backed fabrics involves the following stages,

(i) The face and back threads are marked out on design paper. They are marked out according to the
order of insertion.
(ii) The face weave is inserted on the face threads only using normal convention for warp backing and
reverse convention for weft backing.
(iii) The back weave is inserted on back threads only using the normal and reversed convention. A
mark is placed on the back weave between two long floats of the face weave. This hides the
binding marks of the back weave by covering float on the face.
68

In reversible structures the binding marks of the face weave should be equally well concealed on the
back. This is achieved by a suitable choice of face and the back weaves.
Warp faced weaves are more suitable for warp backing and weft faced weaves for weft backing ,
while certain square faced weaves can be successfully applied to both structures. In order to get a well
covered face in the back cloth, correct settings are very important as without sufficient density of the
face threads, the binding marks of the back weave cannot be covered, no matter how clearly they are
placed.

These fabrics are produced by alternately weaving two similar or different warp faced weaves. The
objective of such a technique is to get greater thickness or mass of the fabric without using coarser
yarns. For constructing warp backed fabrics two systems of warp and one system of weft is required.
One series of warp threads constitute the face warp and the other constitutes the back warp. Obviously
two warp beams are required. The ratio of the face to back warp threads is generally 1:1. Sometimes a
ratio of 2:1 is also adopted.
The first step in the construction of warp backed fabric is the selection of the face weave. The next
step is to choose the back weave. The back weave is selected so as to leave long weft floats on the back
side in order to lower the back warp threads. Hence a warp faced weave is chosen for both the face and
back threads.
A design of warp faced back weave is shown in Fig. 11.1 below.

A C
4 X X X X
3 X X X X
2 X X X X
1 X X X X
1 2 3 4 I II III IV

1 2 3 4
B
I II III IV
Face
X X X X F
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
1 I 2 II 3 III 4 IV 1 I

Face

E I
 69

X
X
X
X
G X
X
X
X

4 X X X X X X X X
3 X X X X X X X X
2 X X X X X X X X
1 X X X X X X X X

A 3/1 twill is chosen as the base weave for both the face and back weaves. At A is shown the face
weave and at C is shown the back weave. The design at C is a 3/1 twill as seen from back side and is
1/3 as viewed from the face side. For clarity the face and back warps are denoted by arabic and roman
numerals respectively. The figure B shows the warp way cross section with the first pick as reference to
show the manner of interlacement. As can be seen from this cross section, the first pick of weft goes
below the face warp threads 1, 2 and 3 and above 4 respectively. The weft also goes above the back
warp threads I, III and IV and below II respectively. It can be seen that the warp thread II is the binding
point for the weft. This has been chosen since the binding point comes in the middle. The point of
intersection of the weft thread 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the back warp threads I, II, III and IV respectively is
denoted by the circled cross mark in diagram C.
The face and back warp threads are arranged alternately in the ratio of 1:1 as shown at D. At E is
shown the warp way cross section of the warp backed fabric. It is to be noted that this is the same as the
one shown at B. The weft way cross section is shown at F. At G is shown the complete weaving plan of
the warp backed design. The draft used here is a divided draft, since two sets of warp threads are used in
the design.

In these types of fabrics two series of weft threads and one series of warp threads are used. A drop box
is necessary for the purpose. The purpose of introducing back weft thread is to obtain additional weight
or thickness of fabric. The face weft threads are placed in the upper layer of the fabric and the back weft
threads are placed in the lower layer of the fabric.
As in the case of warp backed weave, the first step is selection of the base weave. This may be either
a warp or weft faced weave. A weft faced weave is suitable since it has longer warp floats on the back
side.
A design of weft faced back weave is shown in Fig. 11.2

4 X 4 IV IV X X X
3 X 3 III III X X X
2 X 2 II II X X X
1 X 1 I I X X X
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
A B C
70

IV X X X O
4 X O
III X X X O
Face
3 X O F
D II X X X O
2 X O
I X X X
O
1 X O
1 2 3 4

1 I
E O O O O
I

4 X
3 X
2 X
1 X

8 X X X X X X
7 X X
6 X X X X X X
5 X X
4 X X X X X X
3 X X
2 X X X X X X
1 X X
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

At A is shown a 1/3 twill which is weft faced. B shows the weft way cross section of the weft backed
design. As in the case of warp backed fabric the most suitable stitching point is in the middle of the float.
The face and back weft are denoted by arabic and roman numerals respectively. The binding point of the
first warp thread is by lowering below the weft thread III. C shows the back weft design with the suitable
stitching points based on Fig. B. D shows the final design of the weft backed fabric by alternating the
face and back weaves in the ratio of 1:1 weft way. F shows the weft way cross section which is the same
as B. E shows the warp way cross section. G shows the weaving plan of the design. Since only one series
of warp threads is used a straight draft is employed.

Weft backed fabrics Warp backed fabrics

1. Softer and more lofty handling cloth can be 1. Less softer and loftier handle when compared
obtained. This is due to weft containing less to weft backed.
twist and being under less tension than the warp.
(Contd.)
 71

Weft backed fabrics Warp backed fabrics

2. Requires one warp beam and drop box (2 ¥ 1) 2. Requires two warp beams and no drop box.
3. Costlier to produce due to more picks/cm 3. Cheaper to produce owing to less picks/cm
4. Impossible to produce a solid appearance. 4. A more solid appearance can be given to the
cloth by the formation of stripe patterns on the
underside.
5. Lower strength warp way 5. Greater strength warp way.
6. Inferior from structural point of view 6. Superior from structural point of view.
7. Low quality of backing yarn can be used in weft due 7. Low quality of yarn cannot be used in
to less strain on yarn warp due to greater strain in weaving
8. Drawing in is cheaper due to less number of ends 8. Drawing in is a costlier operation since there
are more number of ends
9. Drafts are simpler 9. Drafts are usually more complicated, and a
greater number of healds are required in
producing similar effects
10. The standard orders of arranging the picks are – 10. The standard order of arranging the ends in
1 face to 1 back, 2 face to 1 back, 3 face to 1 back, warp backed cloths are – 1 face to one back, 2
2 face to 2 back, 4 face to 2 back face to 1 back and 3 face to 1 back.

Backed fabrics find uses in shawls, heavier dress materials, overcoats etc.

1. What are backed fabrics?

2. Mention the importance of backed construction.
3. Mention the stages involved in the construction of backed fabrics.
4. What are the types of backed structures?
5. What types of draft plans are used in warp and weft backed designs?
6. Bring out some comparisons between warp and weft backed structures.
7. Mention the end uses of backed fabrics.

1. Give the design, draft and peg plan for a warp backed fabric considering that the face weave is a 2/2 twill
and the back weave is 3/1 twill. Assume that the ratio of face to back threads is 1 : 1.
2. Give the design, draft and peg plan for a warp backed fabric considering that the face weave is a 3/1 twill
and the back weave is a 4 end irregular satin. Assume that the ratio of the face to back threads is 2 : 2.
3. Give the design, draft and peg plan for a warp backed fabric considering that the face weave is a 4/1 twill
and the back weave is a 5 end satin. Assume that the ratio of the face to back threads is 2 : 1
4. Give the design, draft and peg plan for a warp backed fabric considering that the face weave is a 4/2 twill
and the back weave is a 6 end irregular sateen. Assume that the ratio of the face to back threads is 2 : 1.
5. Give the design, draft and peg plan for a warp backed fabric considering that the face weave is a 3/3 twill
and the back weave is a 1/5 twill. Assume that the ratio of the face to back threads is 3 : 1.