Hope

Pattern by

Please tag your project #hopemotif & #mosaiccrochet

@tinnahekl on instagram / tinnahekl@gmail.com
Tinna’s crochet club on FB / Tinna@thorudottir on FB
 Special thanks to my team leaders:
Jeni for the inspiration & brilliant idea, Jui for doing the progress photos for this pattern
& Sue for always being able to count on your support.
You three are the absolute best!

©Tinna ÞÞ 2020
This Pattern has been designed and written by Tinna Thorudottir Thorvaldar. Please do not share, copy or redistribute this
pattern. This way you contribute to the growth of the creative crochet community and support the designer.

You are welcome to sell your finished items, but please give Tinna credi
 Hope Most of us thankfully have the
internet to communicate with friends
and loved ones throughout the world,
that is something to be thankful for
and cherish. We can also find and send
strength within our online community
of crocheters.
As a small act of solidarity, I designed
this little crochet motif to share with
my fellow crocheters around the
world. The idea came from my friend
Jeni Ahern, who suggested I designed
a pattern with the little heart I had
made for my Mosaic Alphabet
Introduction pattern. We need to spread love, she
These are very difficult times we are said. And I couldn’t agree more.
living, unprecedented even. I know a So, here you have the Hope motif. The
lot of you are afraid, confused and inspiration was hearts around the
may find yourself in very stressful world and unity. The little circle in the
situations. And I’m so sorry. Many are middle represents the world, which is
in isolation, dealing with the loss of then surrounded with little hearts. I
loved ones or in fear of losing family hope you all stay safe, please stay at
members. This pandemic has affected home and let’s all try to show our
us all and at this moment it’s hard to unity in action. We must remember to
imagine that the world will ever be the be thankful for all the little things in
same. But at times like these, we are life. Like the fact that at least we can
reminded that we are all connected, keep our hands and minds busy with
that we live in a global community. For yarn, creativity and crochet.
better and for worse. We have now
seen the worst and so let’s try and Please don’t lose hope, this too shall
fortify the best. pass.
Keep calm and crochet on.
Yarn and hooks Abbreviations (US terms):
ST = stitch / stitches
CH = chain stitch
SS = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet
FPDC = front post double crochet

General instructions
You can use any yarn you like, and you Each square is crocheted in the round
will need at least 2 colors. Use a hook from the center and outward. At the
that suits your yarn. end of each round you connect with a
slip stitch.
I’m using Scheepjes Stonewashed and
hook no. 3,5 mm. IMPORTANT: when working my
patterns, always assume the next
For each square you need 12 g of the stitch will go in the next available
main color and 9 g of the pattern stitch unless told otherwise. For
color, so this a perfect project to use example, if it says: work 5 SC, then you
the Scheepjes mini skeins’ box for the work 1 SC into each of the next 5 ST.
pattern color. For the main color you On the other hand, if you are
will get 4 squares from a 50 g skein. supposed to skip a stitch or work
See yarn stats table on page 11 for the many stitches into the same ST/CH SP,
yarn stats in various types of yarn. then that is always specified.

Size Also note that you work into the

chains in the corners of the squares
The size of the squares will vary like normal stitches, not into the chain
depending on hook and yarn used. My spaces.
original Hope square is approximately
14 x 14 cm large.

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Mosaic crochet technique This way you get this unique mosaic
pattern. Because the mosaic pattern is
The squares are crocheted with the
worked this way, always from the
mosaic crochet technique, so all:
front side, the pattern only appears on
Single crochet stitches are worked in the front of the square, and the
the back loop of a stitch. backside of the square is striped.
Double crochet stitches are worked in Front Post Double Crochet
the front loop of a stitch in the round
When working with the pattern color
below the one you would normally
(B), which is the color that make up
crochet into, that is, in the
the hearts, you work all the DC’s in
corresponding stitch right below the
round 7 and onwards as front post
stitch you would normally crochet
DC’s. Then you work a front post DC
into, one round down. Then you must
around the corresponding DC, instead
take care to skip that ST from the last
of using the normal mosaic technique.
round that you would normally work
Always one round down like before,
into, so that you are not increasing.
so the FPDC in round 7 are worked
around DC’s from round 5, and in
round 9 you work them around the
DC’s from round 7, etc.

Slanted DC’s & FPDC’s

Furthermore, both the DC’s and
For example, the double crochet FPDC’s in the odd number rounds
stitches in round 3 are worked into (pattern color rounds) are always
stitches from round 1, DC in round 4 worked either one ST to the left or
are worked into stitches in round 2, right, and then down one round. This
etc. When working the double should be clear when looking at the
crochet, you just yarn over and insert chart on page 12. These slanted DC’s
your hook from below in the front are always worked into stitches of the
loop of the corresponding stitch and same color as you have on your hook
then work a normal DC in that stitch, when working them, the patterns
see illustration below. color, the symbol shows you in which
direction they should go and I mark
the stitch where they should land with
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blue in the chart. When working the one stitch at the end of each round, to
slanted FPDC’s, then they are worked hide it better. This is done by adding
around previous FPDC’s, so it should one stitch at the end of each round,
be easy enough to see where they skipping the chain stitch you would
should land. When working the normally join into and then
slanted DC’s (round 5 & some in connecting with a slip stitch in the
round 11) they are worked into the next stitch after the chain. This is
front loop of the corresponding SC explained in detail in the instructions
(when there are no DC’s available). for each round of the pattern.
The FPDC’s in round 7 go around the Colorwork
DC’s from round 5, so they are
jumping two stitches to their
left/right. This is specified in the
written pattern of course.

If left handed, then go right when

I say left, and left when I say right.
When working the slanted DC’s
and FPDC’s.

Take care to always give the FPDC’s a

bit of extra slack so that the squares
don’t ripple. If you crochet very
titghtly you could try and use FP A Hope cushion with the added border
from my FIESTA pattern, made by my
trebles or extended FPDC’s instead of friend Sue Collings.
the FPDC’s. I’ve tried both and I like
the FPDC’s best. Work one round in color B (pattern
color) and then one round in color A
Invisible join (main color), alternating with each
To make the joins less visible I have round. Each round is worked with a
designed the Hope motif in a way that single color. I recommend using
you always join where there is a contrasting colors, that way the
double crochet stitch (except for the pattern pops more! you could also try
first 2 rounds where there aren´t any and use a gradient yarn for color B, to
DC’s). The join is also moved forward get more colors!

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Hope Motif This is the only round where you’ll
have to finish by cutting your yarn,
from rounds 2 and onwards the yarn is
carried between rounds on the
backside.
Note. Remember now and always
when working this pattern that all the
SC stitches are worked in the back
loop of a stitch.
Rnd. 2. Work with color A (main
color), here and in all the even
numbered rounds: start wherever by
pulling your yarn through the back
Make a magic loop and work the first loop of a ST from round 1, CH 1 and
round into the magic loop. work 1 SC into that same stitch, 2 SC,
2 CH, [1 SC in the same stitch as you
Rnd. 1. Work with color B (pattern
worked your last SC, 4 SC, 2 CH] x 3, 1
color), in this round and each round
SC in the same stitch as you worked
that are odd number rounds. Ch 2
your last SC, 1 SC. Skip the chain stitch
(these two chains do not count as a
and join with a SS using color B in the
half double crochet), 15 HDC, cut the
back loop of the next SC.
yarn & join with the invisible join, this
will count as the 16th and final ST of
this round. Pull the magic loop tight.

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Note: At the end of rounds 2.-8. you In the next round we start working
work the last SC of the round in the the double crochet stitches,
slip stitch made at the end of the remember that all DC’s in the even
previous round and skip the chain number rounds (main color rounds)
stitch that was made at the beginning are worked into the front loop of the
of the current round. This is done to stitch two rounds below. For example,
move the join forward one stitch in the double crochet stitches in round 4
each round to better hide the join. are worked into stitches in round 2,
etc.
Note that from now on, you work
into the back loop of the 2 chains in Rnd. 4. Color A: CH 1, 2 DC (the second
the corners, as if they were normal DC here lands in the first corner chain
stitches, not into the chain spaces. of round 2), 1 SC, 2 CH, [1 SC, 3 DC, 1
SC, 3 DC, 1 SC, 2 CH] x 3, 1 SC, 3 DC, 1
Rnd. 3. Color B: CH 1, 3 SC (the last
SC, 1 DC. Skip the chain stitch and join
one of these lands in the first corner
with a SS using color B in the back loop
chain), [2 CH, 7 SC] x 3, 4 SC, skip the
of the first DC of the current round.
chain and join with a SS and color A in
the back loop of the first SC of the
current round. Note that at the end of
this and all consequent rounds, I
work the last ST of the round around
the upcoming tail of the next color, to
hide it better on the backside.

Rnd. 5. Color B: CH 1, 3 SC, 2 CH, [4 SC,

1 DC (down & left), 1 SC, 1 DC (down
& right) into the same ST as you
worked your last DC, 4 SC, 2 CH] x 3, 4
SC, 1 DC (down & left), 1 SC, 1 DC
(down & right) into the same ST as you
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worked your last DC, 1 SC. Skip the Rnd. 7. Color B: CH 1, 3 SC, 2 CH, [4 SC,
chain stitch and join with a SS using 1 FPDC (2 ST left & down), 5 SC, 1 FPCD
color A in the back loop of the first SC (2 ST right & down), 4 SC, CH 2] x 3, 4
of the current round. SC, 1 FPDC (2 ST left & down), 5 SC, 1
FPDC (2 ST right & down), 1 SC. Skip
the chain stitch and join with a SS
using color A in the back loop of the
first SC of the current round.

Rnd. 6. Color A: CH 1, 2 DC, 1 SC, 2 CH,

[1 SC, 4 DC, 1 SC, 1 DC, 1 SC, 4 DC, 1
SC, 2 CH] x 3, 1 SC, 4 DC, 1 SC, 1 DC, 1
SC, 2 DC. Skip the chain stitch and join
with a SS using color B in the back loop
of the first DC of the current round.

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Rnd. 8. Color A: CH 1, 2 DC, 1 SC, 2 CH, (right and down), 2 SC. Skip the chain
[1 SC, 4 DC, 1 SC, 5 DC, 1 SC, 4 DC, 1 and join with a SS using color A in the
SC, CH 2] x 3, 1 SC, 4 DC, 1 SC, 5 DC, 1 first SC of the round.
SC, 2 DC. Skip the chain stitch and join
with a SS in the first DC of the round,
using color B.

Rnd. 10. Color A: CH 1, 2 DC, 1 SC, CH

2, [1 SC, 5 DC, 1 SC, 3 DC, 1 SC, 3 DC, 1
SC, 5 DC, 1 SC, CH 2] x 3, 1 SC, 5 DC, 1
Rnd. 9. Color B: CH 1, 3 SC, 2 CH, [5 SC,
SC, 3 DC, 1 SC, 3 DC, 1 SC, 3 DC. Skip
1 FPDC (left & down), 7 SC, 1 FPDC
the chain and join with a SS using color
(right and down), 5 SC, CH 2] x 3, 5 SC,
B in the first DC of the round.
1 FPDC (left & down), 7 SC, 1 FPDC

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 Rnd. 12. Color A: CH 1, 2 DC, 1 SC, CH
2 [ 1 SC, 8 DC, 3 SC, 1 DC, 3 SC, 8 DC, 1
SC, CH 2] x 3, 1 SC, 8 DC, 3 SC, 1 DC, 3
SC, 6 DC. Skip the chain and join with
a SS using color A in the first DC of the
round.

Rnd. 11. Color B: CH 1, 3 SC, CH 2, [8

SC, 1 FPDC (right & down), 1 SC, 1 DC
(left & down), 1 SC, 1 DC (right &
down), 1 SC, 1 FPDC ( left & down), 8
SC, CH 2] x 3, 8 SC, 1 FPDC (right &
down), 1 SC, 1 DC (left & down), 1 SC,
1 DC (right & down), 1 SC, 1 FPDC ( left
& down), 5 SC. Skip the chain and join Rnd. 13. Color A: CH 1, work 1 SC into
with a SS using color A in the first SC both loops of each ST and 1 SC + 2 CH
of the round. + 1 SC into each corner chain space.
skip the last ST and join with the
Cut yarn B here.
invisible join. Cut yarn A.

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 Instructions for the diagram
If you like, you can work one On page 12 you will find a diagram for
additional round here with the this pattern, generally each box
pattern color, to frame your square represents one stitch.
up, like so:
● If the box is empty you work a SC
Rnd. 14. Color B, start wherever, I there.
recommend moving the join here:
pull your yarn through the back loop ● If there is an X in the box you work
of any SC from the previous round, CH a DC straight down there.
1 to fasten your yarn. work 1 SC into ● If there are / or \ in the box you
each ST (including the back loop of the work a slanted DC or FPDC there, in
corner chains as always) and chain 2 the same direction as the symbol
over the corners like before. skip the shows, in or around the indicated ST
last ST and join with the invisible join. in the second to last round down.
Fasten off and weave in the ends. That is, into the ST below that is
marked with blue.
Note that these 2 last rounds are not
depicted in the diagram. ● if there is a ꚙ in the box, you work
2 chains there, for the corner.
Joining the squares
● if there is a T in the box, you work a
You can of course use any technique
HDC there.
you like to join the squares. My
favorite one is to join the squares ● the first round, that is the 9 boxes
together with slip stitches in each inside the first round do not count as
stitch of the last round, only working stitches.
them into the back loop of each ST like
you can see in the following Here I use blue for the pattern color
illustration. (color B) and white for the main color
(color A). Although the pattern is
colored in the chart, remember that
each round is worked with a single
color.
The center of each side of the square
is defined by thicker lines.

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Note: in the diagram I only show the the round. This is therefore a diagram
above-mentioned parts of the to support the written pattern, but
pattern. For example, it does not show you should always follow the original
the slip stitch at the end of each written instructions as well, for the
round, nor the CH1 in the beginning of full pattern.

Yarn stats
Yarn type, Hook Amount used each Amount used each Finished
weight, size colour (weight) colour in metres dimensions
manufacturer (mm) 1 complete square 1 complete square 1 complete square
Stonewashed 3.5 A 12 g A 31 m 14 x 14 cm
from Scheepjes B9g B 24 m 5.5 x 5.5 inches
50 g = 130m
Drops cotton 4 A 26 g A 55 m 17 x 17 cm
light B 22 g B 46 m 6.5 x 6.5 inches
105m = 50g

UK Aran 4.5 A 15 g A 29 m 18 x 18 cm
196 m = 100 g B 13 g B 26 m 7 x 7 inches
Moya Cotton 4 A 15 g A 30 m 17 x 17 cm
Aran B 13 g B 28 m 6.5 x 6.5 inches
110m = 50 g
Stylecraft 4 A 14 g A 41 m 18 x 18 cm
Special DK B 10 g B 30 m 7 x 7 inches
295 m = 100 g
James C Brett 4 A 13 g A 25 m 16 x 16 cm
Aztec Alpaca B6g B 12 m 6.25 x 6.25 inches

KPC Gossyp DK 3.5 A 14g A 32 m 15 x 15 cm

Cotton B9g B 21 m 6 x 6 inches
113m = 50g
Hilaturas LM 3.5 A 15 g A 30 m 15 x 15 cm
Cotton Nature B9g B 14 m 6 x 6 inches
3.5
103 m = 50 g

Rico Cotton Soft 4 A9g A 22 m 14 x 14 cm

DK B7g B 16 m 5.5 x 5.5 inches
125 m = 50 g

In this table you can see how much yarn you need for
1 complete hope square (all 14 rounds), in various yarn types.
Please note that this is an approximation and the numbers per square can vary a
bit, depending on your gauge and hook size used.

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 Diagram
= SC X = DC Ꚙ = CH2 T = HDC

/ Slanted DC or FPDC that goes \ Slanted DC or FPDC that goes 1 ST

1 ST to the left and down. to the right and down.

①
Marks the first ST of the rnd Number of round, here you can also
& also the ST you join into see which color to use for each round

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Border this round. When you work over the
joins of the squares do it like this: skip
If you’d like to make a baby blanket the CH in the corner of the square,
with the Hope motif, then this lace crochet 1 SC in the middle of the join,
border would make a lovely finish. skip the CH in the corner of the second
This is the border that I did on my square as well and continue to work 1
Baby SAGA blanket, so the photo here SC into each loop until you get to the
shows the border made on that next joining of squares. Work the
blanket. corners of the border the same way
you did the corners of each square,
that is add 2 CH in each corner. Join
with a SS in the first CH of the round.
Now, this will give you 27 or 29 ST per
square (depending on if you worked
your squares with 13 or 14 rounds)
plus 2 chains in each corner and the
extra stitch on the joins. Now, it’s
unlikely that your final stitch count per
side will work exactly for the 8 ST
repeat, but it’s very easy to fudge the
stitch count in round 3. And until then
SAGA baby lanket made by the talented
Sue Collings. it doesn’t even matter, so no worries
and no need to count now, just keep
I would recommend working the
going. I promise that after blocking, no
border with the pattern color (color
one will be able to notice a little
B), for this pattern.
fudging!
The lace border consists of an 8 ST
Rnd. 2. Work this round into the back
repetition. Start by counting 7 SC to
loop of each stitch: CH 1, 1 SC into
the right from any corner.
each stitch until you get to a joining of
Rnd. 1. Work this round into the back two squares. When you work over the
loop of each stitch: Fasten the yarn in joins of the squares work 1 HDC in the
the back loop of the seventh SC and SC that is situated right in the middle
work 1 CH (this chain counts as the of the join, this way the border will be
first SC), work 1 SC into each stitch in straighter. Continue working 1 SC into

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each stitch until you get to the next next chain space (CH SP), 3 CH, skip
join and work the corners the same as the DC, 1 SC into the next CH SP, 5 CH,
before. Join with a SS in the first CH of skip the next 5 ST and work 1 SC into
the round. the next CH SP (the first of two chain
spaces in the corner), 3 CH, skip the
Rnd. 3. Work this round into the back
DC, 1 SC into the next CH (the second
loop of each stitch: CH 3 (counts as
CH SP in the corner). Work [5 CH, skip
the first DC of the round), [1 CH, skip 1
the next 5 ST, 1 SC into the next CH SP,
ST, 1 DC] x 4, the last DC of the repeat
3 CH, skip the DC, 1 SC into the next
should be situated in the last SC
CH SP] x all through the round. Take
before the corner. Work the corner
care to situate the corners correctly,
like this: [1 CH, 1 DC] x 3 all into the
as described for the first corner.
chain space in the corner, 1 CH, 1 DC
into the first SC after the corner End the round after finishing with the
chains. Now work this repeat until you last CH 5 and then join with a SS into
get to the next corner: [1 CH, skip 1 ST, the first SC of the round (the one
1 DC] x 4, the last DC of the last repeat made after the slip stitches in the
should be situated in the last SC beginning of the current round).
before the next corner.
Rnd. 5. In this round you will be
If the stitch count doesn’t fit exactly working mainly into the 3-chain
between corners, it’s easy enough to spaces from round 4.
just skip 2 ST instead of 1 in between
Work 4 chains (count as 1 DC and 1
some of the double crochet stitches in
CH), work [1 DC, 1 CH] x 2 into the 3-
this round. Or work 2 DC’s in a row
CH SP, 3 CH, join with a SS into the first
with the CH1 in between.
of these 3 chains, work [1 DC, 1 CH] x
It’s important to have the right stitch 3 into the same 3-chain space as
count for the border after this round. before. Now skip the next 2 chains and
work 1 SC around the middle of the
Work the other corners as same as the
chain 5 and into the DC below (the last
first one. In the last repetition of the
DC before the corner from round 3).
round, skip the last DC and instead
you join with a SS into the third chain Now work the corner like this, all into
made at the beginning of the round. the 3-chain space in the corner: [1 CH,
1 DC] x 4 into the corner CH SP, 4 CH,
Rnd. 4. Work 2 SS (into the next chain
join with a SS into the first of these 4
and consequent DC), 1 SC into the
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chains, [1 DC, 1 CH] x 4, all into the repeat from *to* until you get to the
same corner CH SP. Now skip the next next corner, then repeat the corner
2 chains and work 1 SC around the same as before. Continue the same
middle of the chain 5 and into the DC way, after finishing the last repeat of
below (the first DC after the corner the round, work 1 CH and join with a
from round 3). SS into the third chain made at the
beginning of the round.
Work this repetition until you get to
the next corner: *[1 CH, 1 DC] x3 into Break the yarn, weave in the ends and
the next 3-chain space, 3 CH, join with block the blanket. For this border, it’s
a SS into the first chain of these 3, quite important to block it properly,
[1 DC, 1 CH] x 3 into the same 3-chain pulling the little 3 chain nobs (4 chain
space as before. Now skip the next 2 in the corners) from the last round
chains and work 1 SC around the out, using blocking pins, to make them
middle of the chain 5 and into the DC pop.
below (skipping 1 DC from round 3).*

In this illustration you can

see how the border
works, drawn up with
symbols (the best I could!)
… and no, I do not have a
program to do this!

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