ARLACEL™ 165
Glycerol stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
Contributes to the production of certified sustainable palm oil
For over forty years, ARLACEL 165 has been the industry standard, acid-stable, self-emulsifying glycerol
monostearate. The primary use for ARLACEL 165 is an emulsifier for creams and lotions that are rich in non-polar oils
and waxes. Because it is a nonionic emulsifier, ARLACEL 165 will tolerate the addition of acidic actives and salts and
emulsions made with them can be pH adjusted to between 4.5 and as high as 9. Other known functions for ARLACEL
165 are as an opacifier in clear cleansing systems (2 to 5%), as an emulsifier in anhydrous cream bases (5 to 25%),
as a wetting agent for antiperspirant salts in sticks (2 to 5%) and as a dispersant for unique bath oil products.
To satisfy the needs of customers seeking sustainable palm alternatives, Croda offers SP ARLACEL 165 MBAL which
is manufactured via RSPO’s Mass Balance System.
Benefits Applications
Excellent emulsification for lipophilic ingredients Cleansing systems
Acid and salt stable Face and body creams
Can be used with no additional surfactants Anti-perspirants/Deo
Consistent high quality Bath/Massage oils
Excellent elevated temperature stability
Using glycerol monostearates
In order to take full advantage of the properties of ARLACEL 165, the formulator needs to be aware of the various
types of glycerol monostearate (GMS) available on the market. There are three general types:
Acid-emulsifying or acid-stable, self-emulsifying GMS
Acid-emulsifying GMS are made by blending the non self-emulsifying grade of glycerol stearate with a high HLB
nonionic surfactant. The resulting mixtures are intended to be used as general purpose emulsifiers for topical creams
and lotions. Because both the low and high HLB surfactants are nonionic, the blend can be used for topical products
containing mild acids (lactic for example) or electrolytes (such as aluminum chlorohydrate).
Self-emulsifying GMS
This is most commonly known as “GMS SE.” It is made by blending glycerol stearate with hydrophilic soap. The CTFA
describes glycerol stearate SE as “a self-emulsifying grade of glycerol stearate that contains some sodium and/or
potassium stearate.” The level of the sodium/potassium soap can range from 5 to 25% of the simple blend. Since the
hydrophilic portion of the mixture is anionic, it is incompatible with acids and electrolytes. This property limits the
formulator to alkaline creams and lotions.
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Non-self-emulsifying GMS
This is the simplest form of GMS. The PCPC describes this as “the monoester of glycerin and stearic acid” and gives
it the INCI name of glyceryl stearate. The food industry calls it simply “mono- & diglycerides” and rates the product on
the ratio of mono to di-ester. The pharmaceutical industry is generally concerned with the USP’s NF grade, which is a
distilled monoglyceride with a mono content of not less than 90%. In cosmetics, it is frequently used alone as a
thickening agent with some emollient properties or as a low HLB (2.8) surfactant. When it is used as an emulsifier for
oil-in-water systems, it is generally paired with high HLB surfactants such as Croda’s MYRJ™, TWEEN™ or BRIJ™
brand products.
Glycerol esters are unique in that they have both an HLB value (2.8 to 3.8) as a surfactant and a required HLB (15+)
as a lipophilic ingredient.
Certified Sustainable Palm- Mass Balance
SP ARLACEL 165 MBAL is Croda’s sustainable palm oil variant allowing customers to use sustainably sourced
material if they wish. The product is manufactured by the RSPO’s Mass Balance system. The Mass Balance supply
chain allows certified sustainable palm oil material and non-certified material to be mixed throughout the supply chain
but administratively monitors the mass of certified material produced and sold. The Mass Balance system is fully
audited allowing buyers of the material to view the product’s life span. Another advantage of this system is that it
actively encourages palm growers to produce sustainable palm and move towards a segregated supply chain system.
By choosing these ingredients, you contribute to the production of sustainable palm oil. Products manufactured with
sustainable palm oil do not in any way compromise on performance.
Figure 1: RSPO Mass Balance Supply Chain
General formulating recommendations:
ARLACEL 165 products work best when used with non-polar oils and waxes. For emulsions rich with highly polar
oils, we recommend blends of our BRIJ S2 with BRIJ S721 at the correct HLB for your formula.
ARLACEL 165 products are not recommended for W/O emulsions.
Cream viscosity emulsions are best made with about 5% ARLACEL 165 products along with some fatty alcohol
or wax. For lotion viscosity emulsions, omit or reduce the waxes and add a small amount of a polymeric
thickener. Traditional carbomer thickeners are also used successfully. Blending ARLACEL 165 products with
either lower or higher HLB nonionic surfactants may be necessary if the required HLB of the formula is outside
the 10 to 12 range. Croda publishes a guide for using the HLB system to help you do this more effectively.
ARLACEL 165 should be put into the oil phase.
The recommended mixing temperature is between 65°C and 75°C.
The agitation recommended is high-speed stirring at first and then switching to a slow sweep type until the
emulsion temperature reaches approximately 30°C. Homogenization is not required but may be useful.
Representative viscosity typically appears after the emulsion has rested for 24 hours at room temperature.
ARLACEL 165 products are compatible with all of the popular preservatives. We recommend following the
manufacturer’s advice on use level and location in the formula.
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ARLACEL 165 is dispersible in water and insoluble in cottonseed oil, ethanol, mineral oil & propylene glycol.
Typical Properties
Appearance White to cream-colored
HLB Value 11.0
beads
Pour point (º F) Approximately 130
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2013 Croda Inc
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Daily Requirement Eye Cream SC-476
A multi-vitamin cream designed for the eye zone. ARLASOLVE™ DMI enhances delivery of the vitamins to the target
area. CRODAMOL™ GTIS imparts occlusivity, helping to retain vital moisture without migration. PRIPURE™ 3759
contributes a delicate, elegant skin feel.
Ingredients %
Part A
Water 61.70
Glycerin 4.00
Xanthan Gum 0.20
Allantoin 0.50
Part B
ARLACEL™ 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate) 5.00
ARLASOLVE DMI-PC (Dimethyl Isosorbide) 1.00
CRODAMOL GTIS (Triisostearin) 6.00
PRIPURE 3759 (Squalane) 6.00
Vitamin E Acetate 1.00
Vitamin A Palmitate 0.70
Vitamin C Palmitate 0.15
Isostearyl Alcohol 5.00
Stearyl Alcohol 4.00
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0.50
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2.00
Part C
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol2 0.70
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate3 2.00
Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Nipaguard BPX, Clariant 3. Dry-Flo PC, National Starch
Procedure
Disperse xanthan gum in water then add other Part A ingredients. Heat Part A to 80°C. Combine and heat Part B to
80°C. Add Part B to Part A. Homogenize for 2 minutes. Stir to 40°C and add Part C. Stir to room temperature.
NC 2064
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2013 Croda Inc
Croda Inc 300-A Columbus Circle Edison NJ 08837-3907 United States of America DEC 6 DS-215R-3
Tel +1 732 417 0800 Fax +1 732 417 0804 E-mail marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc Page 4 of 5
Head-to-Toe Bronzing Cream SC-384
Give your face and body that summertime glow year round with an added “boost” to optimize the self-tanning color
development while providing greater “skin wear”. This cream contains DHA for self-tanning plus the “boost” of
ARLASOLVE™ DMI which optimizes the active’s performance via enhanced skin delivery. With ARLASOLVE DMI,
this formulation not only yields faster color development but also yields longer lasting color for that natural tanned
look.
Ingredients %
Part A
Distilled Water 69.80
Glycerin 3.00
Part B
ARLACEL™ 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate) 4.00
CRODAMOL™ GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) 7.00
Dimethicone2 3.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00
Part C
Dihydroxyacetone 4.00
ARLASOLVE DMI (Dimethyl Isosorbide) 3.50
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) 2-Bromo-2 Nitropropane-1, 2- 0.70
Diol3
Citric Acid To pH 4.0-5.0
Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. DC 200 Fluid, 350 cS, Dow Corning 3. Nipaguard BPX, Clariant Corporation
Viscosity= 32,000cPs10% (Spindle TB, 2.5rpm @ 25C)
Procedure
Mix and heat all ingredients of Part B to 80°C. Mix and heat ingredients of Part A to 80°C. Slowly add Part B to Part
A while stirring. Add Part C when temperature is below 40°C. Homogenize for 1 minute. Cool to room temperature
TS 3097
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2013 Croda Inc
Croda Inc 300-A Columbus Circle Edison NJ 08837-3907 United States of America DEC 6 DS-215R-3
Tel +1 732 417 0800 Fax +1 732 417 0804 E-mail marketing-usa@croda.com www.croda.com/na/pc Page 5 of 5
