256 FABRIC USED IN APPAREL SECTOR Fabric based on Plain weave: 1. Georgette: It is made with filament yarns. In georgette, the direction of the crepe twist (8 or Z) for warp and weft yarns alternates. For example, even-numbered warp and weft yarns may be S-twist and odd-numbered yarns may be Z-twist. It can be a solid colour or printed. itis very light weight, drape well, and is used in apparel. It was originally made of silk but now often is made fram manufactured filament yarns. 2. Chiffon: it is made from fine, highly twisted filament yarns. Because of the tightly twisted crepe yarns, chiffon has excellent drape, very light weight, and although it is delicate in appearance, it is relatively durable, It can be a solid colour or printed. It was originally made of silk but now often is made from manufactured filament yarns. Sheer evening dresses, blouses, lingerie, and other dressy apparel are constructed from the fabric. 3. Voile: Voile is @ sheer fabric made with high twist or voile twist spun yarns that are combed or worsted. It is a soft fabric with some what lower fabric count and has a distinctive two ply warp and good drapability. It can be solid colour or printed. Voile was originally a cotton or wool fabric, but itis now available with many fibre contents. 4. Organdy: It is the sheerest cotton fabric that is given a temporarily or permanently stiffened finish. Combed yarns contribute to its sheer appearance. Its sheerness and crispness are the result of an acid finish on lawn gray goods. Because of its stiffness and fibre content, it is very prone to wrinkling. It is used for curtains and for summer weight apparel. It is available in solid colours or prints. Fabric construction: similar to lawn fabric. Organdy257 S. Organza: It is the filament yarn counterpart to organdy, i.e. it is also a stiff sheer fabric made of filament yarns. It has a lot of body and a crisp hand. It is also used for curtains and for summer weight apparel. It is available in solid colours or prints. 6. Lawn: It is a fine, opaque, light weight, plain weave fabric usually made of combed cotton or cotton-blend (cotton/polyester). The fabric may be bleached, dyed or printed. Lawn is similar to organdy fabric, but it does not receive the acid finish like as organdy and, thus, remain opaque. Fabric construction: 70's X 100's 80 X80 7. Batiste: It is an opaque, light weight, spun yarn, plain weave fabric with a smooth surface. It is the softest of the light weight opaque fabrics. When made of cotton or cotton/polyester, the yarns are usually combed. It can be made of all wool, silk or rayon. Batiste also is similar to organdy fabric, but it does not receive the acid finish like as organdy and, thus, remain opaque. Fabric construction: similar to fawn. ‘Organza Batiste Gingham 8. Gingham: |tis a yarn dyed, plain weave fabric that is available in a variety of weights and qualities. It may be balanced or unbalanced and of combed or carded yarns. If two colours of yarns are used, the fabric is called a check or a checked gingham. If three or more colours are used, the fabric is reffered to as a plaid gingham. It is usually made of cotton or cotton blends. Better quality fabrics are made with combed yarns, When they are made of another fibre, the fibre content is included in the name; for example, silk gingham, Fabric construction: __28' SX 42's Carded : Fa 60 TO 64X76 28" sX 42's Combed: 34x76 TO 68 X84 9, Chamisray: It is a plain weave fabric, usually of cotton, rayon, or blended with polyester. Usually chambray has white yarns in the weft direction and coloured yarns in the warp direction. iridescent chambray is made with one colour in the warp and a second colour in the weft. It can also be made with stripes258 10, Taffeta: it is a general term that refers to any plain weave filament yarn fabric with a fine, smooth, crisp hand. Unbalanced taffeta has a fine rib made by heavier filling yarns and more warp yerns. Faille taffeta has a crosswise rib made by using many more warp yarns than weft yarns. Moir’e taffetas have an embossed water mark design. Balanced taffetas have warp and weft yarns of the same size. Iridescent taffeta has warp and weft yarns of different colours. 11. Madras: It is usually all cotton, and has a lower count than gingham. Madras gingham or madras shirting is a light to medium-weight, dobby weave fabric in which the pattern is usually confined to vertical stripes. 12. Cheese cloth: It is a light, sheer, plain woven fabric with a very soft texture and a very low count. It may be natural coloured, bleached, or dyed. If dyed, it may be called bunting and could be used for flags or banners. 13. Crinoline: It is a stiff, spun yarn, plain weave fabric similar to cheese clath, used in book bindings, hats and stiffening for apparel. It is heavily sized to serve as stiffening fabrics. 14. Buckram: It is heavily sized to serve as stiffening fabrics. Buckram is a heavy, very stiff, spun yarn fabric converted from cheese cloth gray goods with adhesives and fillers. It is used as an interlining to stiffen pinch pleated window treatment fabrics. Cheese cloth Buckram| Taffeta Madras 45. Gauge: It is a sheer, light weight, low count, plain or leno weave balanced fabric made of spun yarns. It is often cotton, rayon, or a blend of these fibres. Gauge, with a higher count than cheese cloth, is used in theatrical costumes and medical dressings, as well as for blouses and drasses. Indian gauge has a crinkled {ook and is available in a variety of fabric weights 16. Ninon: It is a sheer, slightly crisp, light weight, plain weave fabric made of filament yarns. The warp yarns are grouped in pairs, but it is not a basket weave fabric. It is widely used in sheer curtains and draperies. It is usually 100 percent polyester because of that fibre’s resistance to sunlight, excellent resiliency, and easy washability. Although ninon is a plain weave, warp yarn spacing is not uniform across the fabric. Pairs of warp yarns are spaced close to each other. The space between adjacent warp yarn pairs Is259 greater than the space between the two yarns in the pair. Ninon has medium body and hangs well. 12. Calico: it is a closely woven and print cloth of cotton or cotton blend with a small busy pattern. 18. Cambric: It is a fine, firm, starched plain weave balanced fabric with a slight luster on one side. It is difficult to distinguish from percale 19. Percale: Percale is a smooth, slightly crisp, printed or plain coloured fabric, [tis a closely woven, plain weave of cotton or blended fibres, is made from yarns of moderate twist Percale yard goods are generally carded, but percale sheets are finer and more luxurious in feel and are made of combed yarns. In percale bedsheets, counts of 160, 180, 200, and 250 yams (warp plus weft] per inch are available. Percale is called calico if it has small, quaint, printed design; chintz if it has 2 printed design; and cretonne if it has a large scale floral design, When a fabric is given a highly glazed calendar finish, it \s called polished cotton. When chintz is glazed, itis called glazed chintz. Glazed chint2 is made in solid colours as well as prints. These fabrics are often made with blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for shirts, dresses, blouses, pajamas, matching curtains and bedspreads, upholstery, slipcovers, draperies, and wall coverings. 20. Muslin: It is a firm, medium to heavy weight, piain weave cotton fabric made in a variety of qualities, it generally woven from cotten or cotton blends, is made in both heavily sized, bieached qualities and in better grades for sheets and pillow cases. Any plain woven, balanced fabric of carded yarns ranging in weight frow lawn to heavy bed sheeting may be called muslin. itis usually available in counts of 112, 128 or 440. Musiin is also 2 name for a medium weight fabric that is unbleached or white 21. Flannel: It is a light to heavy weight, plain or twill weave fabric. Flannel is a suiting fabric of woolen yarns that is napped. It is used for women’s suits, slacks, skirts, and jackets, Flannelette is a light to medium weight, plain weave cotton ar cotton blend fabric lightly napped on one side. It can be found as both belanced and unbalanced fabrics, It is available in several weights ranging from 4.0 to 5.7 oz/yd’. It is descrized as flannel and is used for sheets, blankets, and sleepwear. Outing flannel is heavier and stiffer than flannelette, it may be napged on one or both sides. It is used for shirts, dresses, light- weight jackets, and jacket linings, Some outing flannels are made with a twill weave Both fabrics may be solid colour, yarn dyed or printed 22. Poplin: Poplin is a bottom-weight rib weave (heavy weight ribbed fabrics) is usually made from cotton or cotton blends, polyester/cotton blends are widely used. it is a medium to heavy weight, unbalanced, plain weave, spun yarn fabric that is usually piece dyed, The weft yarns are coarser than the warp yarns, Poplin is similar to broad cloth, but the ribs are heavier and more pronounced because of larger weft yarns.260 23. Broad cloth: |t is a medium weight unbalanced plain weave with fine ribs, The rib weave makes it crisper than medium weight batanced weaves. |t is often made from cotton or cotton biends. 24, Bengaline: It 1s a lustrous, durable, warp faced fabric with heavy weft cords completely covered by the warp. It is heavy weight fabrics with lange ribs, are used mostly in upholstery and furnishings. 25, Bed ford cord: It is found most often in furnishing fabrics such as bed spreads. it has spun warp yarns that are larger than the weft yarns. It is « sturdy fabric constructed with a pronounced lengthwise card. Bed ford cord is a heavy, warp faced, unbalanced picue weave fabric with wide warp cords created by extra weit yarns floating across the back to give a raised effect Flannel Bed ford cord 26. Faille: failie has 3 prominent rib and is made with fine filament yaras in the warp and heavy spun yarns in the weft. It is usually heavy weight. although lighter weight tissue failles are also produced 27. Dimity: Gimity is a sheer unbalanced fabric used for apparel and window treatments. It has heavy warp cords at intervals across the fabric. The cords may be formed by yarns larger than those used elsewhere in the fabric or by grouping yarns together in that area, Either technique produces the unique narrow band or stripe indicative of dimity. Dimity is white or printed. 28. Oxford: It is usuaily a 2x1 or 3x2 basket weave. It is most common as a 2x1 half basket weave, It may have a yorn dyed warp and white weft and be called oxford chambray. Oxford looks like a balanced fabric because the warp yarns are finer and have higher twist than the weft. Because of soft yarns and loose weave, yarn slippage may occur. Oxford fabrics are medium weight, soft, porous, and lustrous. It is often made of catton or cotton biends, tat is used for shirts. Frequently, it is made with narrow coloured stripes in the warp, or @ coloured werg 29, Duck: It isa strong, coarser, heavy, plain or basket weave fabric available in a variety of weights and qualities. It is similar to canvas. Duck is made with single or ply yarns. Different types of duck relate to which yarns {warp or weft) are plied and how many261 plies are used in the ply yarn. Duck is used for siipcovers, boat cavers, shoe fabries, house and store awnings, tarpaulins and covers for military and industrial uses. 30. Canvas: It is a heavy, firm, strong fabric made of cotton or acrylic and used for awnings, slip covers, shoe fabrics, tarpaulins, and boat covers. tt is produced in many grades and qualities. it may have a soft or firm hand. It is made in plain or basket weave. Canvas is smoother, more compact. and the heaviest of the three (Duck, canvas and sail cloth). It is tightly woven and very stiff plain weave fabrics made of even yarn for industrial use They usually have an uneven weave pattern, Because of the tight weave, these fabrics are often used for outdoor purposes. It is mads with single or ply yarns. Different types of canvas relate to which yarns (warp and weft) ate plied md how many plies are used in the ply yarn 31. Sail cloth: it is a bottom weight half basket weave (2x1), unbalanced fabric of spun or textured filament yarns that can be piece dyed or printed, Sail cloth is the lightest (among the sail cloth, duck and canvas) in weight and made of single yarns. It is used in stacks, skirts, summer weight suits, and furnishings Fabric based on Twill weave: 1, Serge: itis 4 popu: basic twill fabric made from any number of different fibres. When serge is made from woo!, itis often woven From worsted yarns, Serge will take a crease F z well, but wool serge tends to became shiny with wear. It tailors well. Serge is aS twill with a subdued waie with combed or worsted yarns and a clear or hard finish (not napped or brushed}. Serge with fine yarns, a high count, ang a watec-repellent finish is used for jackets, snowsuits, and raincoats, Heavier serge, «with coarse yarns, is used for work pants. Serge often weighs 339.1 {10 o2/y8"} gm/=' or more. size varies with 48x34 To Fabric construction: Yt 2. Twill Flannel: it is a“ twill. The weft yarns arc larger low-twist woolen or worsted yarns, made especially for napping, Worsted flannels have less nap, take and hold a sharp crease better, show less weer, and sag less than woolen flannels. Even-sided flannel is used in apparel and upholstery. cabrie constructions Y2tT S22 varies with fibre content : 56X30 To 86 XS2 3, Shark skin: it is a ‘ twill with a sleek appearance. It has a small-step pattern because both warp and weft yarns alternate one white yarn with one coloured yarns, Shark skin is used primarity for slacks and suits.errr ere tarts) ieee acr areas Herring bone Herring bone: This fabrics have the twill line reversed at regular intervals across the warp to produce a design that resembles the backbone of a fish, hence the name herring bone, Two different colour yarns may be used to accentuate the pattern. Herring bone patterns can be very subtle or very pronounced. Herring bone is used in both apparel and furnishings. These are common in suiting fabrics. 2 Hound’s tooth: It is a twill fabric with a unique small eight-point pattern. Two yarns in contrasting colours in the warp and weft are used in groups of four to create the distinctive pattern, Hound's tooth fabrics also are used in apparei and furnishings Denim: It is a cotton or cotton/polyester blend, durable heavy weight twill-weave, yarn- dyed fabric. Usually the warp is coloured and the weft is white. it is often a left-hand twill with a blue {indigo} warp and white weft for use in apparel in a variety of weights. Since it is a warp-faced twill, the coloured warp yarns predominate on the face and the white weft yams on the back. It is available in several weights, ranging from 203.46 gm/m? (6 oz/yd") to 474.74 gm/m* (14 o2/yd") or more in a +; or + interlacing pattern. Its long term popularity has made it a fashion fabric in casual wear. It may be napped, printed, made with spandex or other stretch yarns, or otherwise modified for fashion, It is a strong, medium-to-heavy weight, warp-faced, twill weave fabric. Itis usually 7 “5 left handed twill and piece dyed (solid colour). it is usually seen in work clothing and industrial fabrics Gabardine263 8. Jean: It isa warp faced twill of carded yarns. It is lighter weight than drill, and it has finer yarns but a higher warp-yarn count. |t is usually with coloured warp yarns and white weft yarns. Jean is a piece-dyed also or printed medium-weight twill used for sportswear, drageries, slipcovers, and work shirts. Jean is not heavy enough for work pants, ! sto 24's X 24’ s to 30s Fabric construction ase + iagyaa 9. Gabardine: It is @ tightly woven, medium to heavy-weight, warp-faced steep or regular- angle, twill weave fabric with a very prominent, distinct wale that is closely set together and raised. It always has many more warp than weft yarns. It can be made of carded or combed single or ply yarns. The long-wearing fabric may be heather, striped, plaid, or solid colour. The fabric can be wool, a wool blend, or synthetic fabrics that resemble wool. Gabardine can also be 100% texturized polyester or a cotton/polyester blend. 15's to 39/2 15's to 26's Fabric construction 10. Damask: Woven fabrics made from expensive mercerized catton for bed clothing and table cloths, The figured design often is made by interchanging satin and sateen weaves. 11. Fil-a- i twill weave fabrics in which light and dark colours alternate in both warp and weft, making a miniature staircase pattern. Used for sults and costumes. Brocade: Heavily figured jacquard fabric, often with lusture yarn effects. Used in formal wear and furnishings, Corduroy: & cut pile cord, usually in cotton. The cords may be of various widths. Used mainiy in leisure and business wear Mull: Soft, fine, open, alain weave cotton fabric with @ very low thread density in both warp and weft. Used for blouses and squares. Brocade Corduroy264 Pin stripe: Worsted woven fabric with fine light-coloured lines in the warp direction Used far suits and costumes. Ottoman: Warp-faced rib fabric with 3 to 10 ribs per cm for coats, jackets, and furnishings Panama: Gencral term for @ plain-based weave where two or more warp and weft yarns interlace as one, giving a chequered appearance. Made from cotton for shirts, tropical suits aid leisure wear, or wool for suits and costumes. Pocketing: Cotton plain woven fabric mace smooth and dense by calendaring, for pocket linings. Pin stripe ‘Ottoman Porketing Seersucker fabric: Cotton fabric with crinkled length-way stripes caused by differential shrinkage. True seersucker is generated by differential warp tensions but finishing treatments can produce a similar effect. Used for blouses, shirts, dresses. ‘Amazon: Very fine, satin weave for business suitings with fine worsted warp yarns and woolen weft. 4 light milling or raising finish may be given. Terry: A soft, voluminous, loop pile fabric. The loops are formed in a second warp sheet by a special weaving technique. Used for bath robes, towels, sports and leisure wear. yy rence Sia Co Seersucker fabric Amazon265 Whipcord: General term for densely woven warp-faced fabrics with a steep twill line, In worsted yarns with a clean finish for trousers, suits and coats, Blazer cloth: Traditionally an all-wool woven fabric for apparel, in either solid colours or stripes, that may be milled and/or raised. imitation blazer cloths introduce cotton in the weft. The term may be used loosely for other fabrics for blazers. Trouser: Trouser is a long pant or ful! pant. Fabric Construction or Specification: The specification of some export oriented commercial fabrics those are produced in Bangladesh as follows: Name of | Construction or Weight Name of | Construction or Weight | the fabric _| Specification the fabric | Specification ‘Gabardine | 130 x51... | Twill 20. X7 58" 298 GSM 20 x16 **° 2OGSM fabric | 128 x42 * 575% Twill x7 72 xa0 Z " | 380. Gsm. | Gabardine | sag * 56" aogsm fabric Ta «ag * 5758 | j IU xy ges Twill SoS x58" 160 65K Gabardine | 20+ 20x 16+ 16 245.65M | fabric 108 x58 16 {slub} x9 25565M Gabardine © 9/5 ¢a0/3 X30" Stub Twill | 2818148} x9 ao cos 40/2 x 40/2 20065M 95 xag «5758 Gabardine ;_80 x48, } (10+10) X10 30065M | Herring . | ton x58 % 5758 195 68M 1s x40, bone Twill | 108 x / Gabardine | 39520 x7 * 6 285.65M Micro 1500 X 1500 55 gas Gabardine | _12 X54 _ sg, Twilt 14 x60 7" To+ 16x Wei 270.65M 5/2 xa5/2 . T.C. Twill | G95 70 57-58" | | Cotton y/d | 80/2 X100/2 govrens Pon We Tad ae * 58/59 Swit Lo266 Name of | Construction or [Weight | Name of | Construction or Weight | fabric _| Specification |_| fabric __ Specification Canvas | 20 x10 : 2%6065M | Sheeting 2 Xo; cg | 108GSM Te way *5758 | | eB x 6g “9798 Canvas | 20 x16 | : 16 X16 19065m 58" 180 Gs 100 x50 *°7 58 calico | Boag 975 or6.15.02 Canvas 1 1 | 16+ 16 12+ 12 i 14 xis Panama 2+ Ty 57758" | calico crag x9758" | 6002 Slab 284slub)_ x9 . Poplin 30 x30 p> xag %57-58' a us ae a0 aE 260.65M joa xan X57-32 tight x30 . 40 x40 canvas x 69 * 58/59 Poplin ‘Tae x7 * 57-58" 20 x 20 7 | 40/2 X 30 Ribstop | eo x57-58 rescsm | Poplin Sy x swiss" | | i Ribstop (20X16 Heavy faa x02 | 196 x 50 * 9738 193 65m | poplin | "t17 x59 *58"/59 Tay Lee | ASKAS Nylon 700(28F) x 70D;2aF} poplin 33 x72 * 58"/59' Fabric , 95 X80 ; CVC{60/40) 45x45 Polyester | ep * 60" blended Tae y 76 *58"/59" Fabric 70D x 750, poplin 136 x 76 2107 ews Premium | 60X50 Oxford | 700 © 700 poplin 110 x 76 * 58/59 Premium 95 x80 . |go/2xg0 Polyester | 3559 x asap *58 poplin \y28 xog X58"/59" Concord 65 6 / | Mixed SEXO COON sgn Premium 200/2X100/2,) «au regu | “X 58"/59) Oxford 104 x60 poplin | 144 Micro F530 1000 cg Bedford 07 Xo’ 7 | Shirting | 1270 Cord 72 xaa * 97-58 Oxford 72 x68 j 128 . 72 Crain Dyed | ap 58/58 Bedford | Goncag *58"/59" cotton | 156 x4 Cord 40x40 ‘otton EXE cisge Flannel 43" (Oxford | 40 x 80/2 58/59 (var dyee) | 20 x10 * 47-43 ! Oxe 42x44 . Oxtore | Sa seaqyy 5805 Flannel 24 yas 42-43) (Printed) ey Oxford Ma X76 Til . i ——— " : +X 44-45! arn oyes) | a2 xe 10972 * 58/59 “flanneliya) | 21 X22