850+ WINES

REVIEWED
OREGON WINE
AND FARMS
GAME-CHANGING
CABERNETS
50 WINE RESTAURANTS
WE LOVE

THE

AUE
ITISS LY
Trailblazing
Winemakers from
Southern Italy
Light and Bright
Piedmont
Etna’s
$6.99 US & CANADA Volcanic Wines Erminia and
Rocco D'Angelo
of D'Angelo
wine in Vulture

Winemag.com
One of a kind coastal wines

SAUVIGN O N BL ANC

“ BEST BUY ”
2019 VINTAGE, OCT. 2020 ISSUE

SE AG LA SS WI N EC O. CO M
©2021 SEAGLASS Wine Company, St. Helena, CA 94574
MAKING HISTORY

ANI 1475954 ©2021 Imported from Italy by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Ltd., Woodinville, Wa 98072 | Red Wine
 THE ITALY ISSUE
August/September 2021
15 PAIR-PERFECT POLLO DISHES
42 ETNA’S NORTHERN STARS
BY KERIN O’KEEFE
The last 20 years have seen an eruption of quality
wines from the Sicilian volcano.

52 THE LIGHTER SIDE OF PIEDMONT

BY KERIN O’KEEFE
Native white wine grapes have a long, delicious
history in this Italian region famous for its reds.

60 VULTURE RISING
BY ALEXANDER PEARTREE
These Southern Italian wineries are bringing new
life to this ancient area.

Cover Photo by
Ilaria Magliocchetti Lombi

15
Italy’s winning
chicken dinners

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

w w w. m e z z a c o r o n a . i t
 72
Cabernet
wins again

69 50 WINE RESTAURANTS
WE LOVE 2021
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
Let’s celebrate those who took care of staff
and customers in the face of unprecedented
hard times.

72 GAME-CHANGING
CABERNET SAUVIGNONS
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
One of the most popular and widely planted
grapes continues to surprise and delight.
92
Israel thinks
outside the vines

78 THE FUTURE OF WINE TOURISM

BY MEKITA RIVAS
Around the world, industry professionals
have had to rethink how they do business.
What will that mean going forward?

84 OREGON’S WINE ON THE FARM

BY PAUL GREGUTT
Get to know the producers who are growing
beyond the vineyard.

92 THE CHANGING STYLE OF

ISRAEL’S WINE
BY MIKE DeSIMONE
Producers in this ancient region look to
the past and future to create thoroughly
modern wines.

96 SAKÉ IN THE USA

BY ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA
From San Francisco to Nashville, America’s
newest craft-brew obsession is 100%
American saké. 69
Seven Reasons,
Washington D.C.

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 ince his early days in vineyard management spent farming
wine regions across California, Clay Shannon’s vision has
been clear - grow the best fruit possible while preserving the land
for future generations. For Clay, sustainability isn't just a
philosophy - it's a way of life. This mantra is what drives him
today as owner and leader of Shannon Family of Wines. Clay
Shannon. Award winning wine with - and crafted from -
exceptional character.
Departments Columns
WINEMAG.COM EDITORS’ LETTER
12 Unions, Labor Rights 10 Living la Vita di Vino
and the Future of BY JACQUELINE STRUM AND
Winery Workers SUSAN KOSTRZEWA

THE CRUSH VIEWPOINT

18
20
All about Calvados
California Petite
38 You Win Some, You Lose Somm
BY LAYLA SCHLACK
18
Good to
the core
Sirah to sample
22 A cocktail for
LAST DROP
24
Cousin Eddie
Q&A with actor
176 Cellar Memory
BY DAVID GLASS
24
Sam Neill
Sam Neill
26 Explore clay beyond
amphorae
Buying Guide
28 Splash, pour and 102 Rhône Valley 160 Australia
explore these lakes 140 Provence 161 Argentina
30 Supremely easy 144 Southwest France 162 California
stuffed peppers 149 Portugal 167 Oregon
32 Wine lingo for the 150 Spain 170 Washinton
new age 151 Piedmont 172 Michigan
34 Favorable sips 154 Switzerland 172 New Jersey
for figs 154 Germany 173 Canada
36 Praise for ancient 156 Hungary 174 Spirits
Roman vino 156 Israel 175 Beer
158 South Africa

28
Where to sip
lakeside
22
Negroni,
riffed again

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 VOLUME 34, NUMBER 5

Jacqueline Strum PUBLISHER

Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea

EDITORIAL DIGITAL DESIGN CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR EUROPEAN EDITOR SPIRITS
Layla Schlack Emily Saladino Monica Simon Roger Voss Kara Newman

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR DIGITAL DESIGNER ITALIAN EDITOR BEER
Sarah Daniels Dylan Garret Eric DeFreitas Kerin O’Keefe John Holl

TASTING DIGITAL EDITOR VISUALS PRODUCER WINE FOOD

Kristen Richard Jesse Reiter Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Nils Bernstein
ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR
Fiona Adams Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt,
ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, TRAVEL
J’nai Gaither Tom Arena Lauren Mowery
TASTING COORDINATORS Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard,
Craig Chamberlain, William Johnson Michael Schachner, Sean P. Sullivan
SOCIAL
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER
Elyse Estrella

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR

Marco Bruno

EDITORIAL OFFICES HEADQUARTERS CALIFORNIA EUROPE ITALY PACIFIC NORTHWEST

200 Summit Lake Drive Virginie Boone vboone@wineen- Roger Voss rvoss@wineenthusiast. Kerin O’Keefe kokeefe@ Paul Gregutt pgregutt
Valhalla, NY 10595 thusiast.net; Jim Gordon jgordon@ net wineenthusiast.net @wineenthusiast.net; Sean P. Sullivan
TEL: 914.345.9463 wineenthusiast.net; Matt Kettmann ssullivan@wineenthusiast.net
editor@wineenthusiast.net mkettmann@wineenthusiast.net

DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISING Luke Burke SENIOR DIGITAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Greg Remillard
SENIOR DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS & EVENTS Jen Cortellini

ADVERTISING WEB DEVELOPMENT WNE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES

WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER SENIOR WEB DEVELOPER CHAIRMAN & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER/
Karen Hackett TEL: 510.225.8537 khackett@wineenthusiast.net Irakli Khakhviashvili EDITOR & PUBLISHER EMERITUS
CENTRAL CALIFORNIA ACCOUNT MANAGER Adam M. Strum
FRONT-END DEVELOPER
Laurie Robertson lrobertson@wineenthusiast.net
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FLORIDA & BUYING GUIDE MANAGER
Sybil Strum
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FINANCE
BUYING GUIDE COORDINATOR PRESIDENT, WINE ENTHUSIAST COMMERCE
Taylor Freas TEL: 914.345.9463 ext. 5858 tfreas@wineenthusiast.net CONTROLLER Erika Strum Silberstein
Suzanne Normoyle
EAST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER PRESIDENT, WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA
Margaret Kalaher TEL: 845.654.1420 mkalaher@wineenthusiast.net Jacqueline Strum
CIRCULATION
EAST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER
SENIOR DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER
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Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly for a total of twelve times per year with special double issues in March, July and September counting as two issues each towards the twelve issue annual total. Wine
Enthusiast may also publish occasional additional special issues annually. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2021 Wine News, Inc. 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595. Periodical
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8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 ᙱ < PMUW[\QKWVQK
ZW[uWVMIZ\Pϰ

BEST ROSÉ WINE

IN THE WORLD

TERROIR • TIME • TRANSCENDENCE

The outstanding landscape of Cabrières in the South of France, a millenary history,
a perfect balance, Clos du Temple inspires celebration of life.
 in this issue

Jacqueline Strum Named

President & Publisher,
Wine Enthusiast Media
Raised in the wine and spirits
industry, Jacqueline Strum
(right) began her career at
Wine Enthusiast running all
communications, overseeing the
renowned Wine Star Awards and
successfully relaunching the events
division. In her role in publishing,
she led the development of
innovative digital product offerings
and multichannel media programs.
She has also held public relations
and digital media roles for global
brands at multiple creative
agencies, in addition to founding
ThirstyNest, the first wine and
spirits registry for the modern
couple. In her recently appointed
role, Jacqueline will oversee Wine
Enthusiast magazine, Winemag.com
and ThirstyNest wine registry.

LIVING LA VITA DI VINO

produce them. As Italian Editor white wines. On page 52, O’Keefe
Kerin O’Keefe explains, these explores native grapes like
singular wines borne of the Cortese, Timorasso, Arneis and
volcano’s distinctive soil exhibit Nascetta. These exciting gems are
Italy has perfected the art of wine as an everyday pleasure. everything from lush and layered perfect for summertime pairing
to tight and taut, and are built for and appreciation.

T
ravel to any city, wine like many of Italy’s artistic a long haul in the cellar. Also in the issue: the 50 Wine
region or remote vil- endeavors, it has brilliantly stood Grown at elevations of Restaurants We Love 2021 (page
lage in Italy and you’ll the test of time. up to 2,000 feet in the wild 69); game-changing Cabernet
more than likely see a At Wine Enthusiast, we mountains of Italy’s Basilicata from around the world (page
wine tumbler filled with some- salute this approach to wine region, the Aglianico variety is 72), American-made craft saké
thing delicious from any number appreciation, reflected in our new the main focus for the inventive (page 96); Oregon’s winery farms
of the country’s diverse vineyards company mission statement: “We winemakers who are reviving (page 84) and the future of wine
in the hands or on the tables of bring wine to life.” Somehow, the Vulture area, the topic of tourism (page 78).
locals and visitors alike. Italian culture makes enjoying, Tasting Director Alexander
Though it’s home to some of learning about and collecting Peartree’s piece on page 60. Cheers!
the most prized cellars and grape wine feel like a natural, fun and Ancient vineyards nestled
varieties of the wine world, and essential part of joyful living— around the extinct Mt. Vulture
offers vinous experiences from something we agree with have attracted young talent to
JACQUELINE STRUM
the most casual to world class, the wholeheartedly. this historic enclave, yielding
PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT
country continues to celebrate This month, we celebrate selections that balance modern @jackistrum
passion over pomp. It remains an Italy and its thriving wine innovation and vinous legacy.
emblem of wine appreciation for culture, starting on page 42 with Up north in Piedmont, in
TOM ARENA

every day, and everyone. an exploration of Sicily’s Etna addition to the legendary red
SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
This embedded enjoyment region, its elegant and energetic wines of Barolo, Barbaresco and EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
dates back millennia, and wines, and the visionaries that Barbera are beautiful and brisk @suskostrzewa

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 WHAT IS

CÀ DEI FRATI
I Frati Lugana DOC
2020 LUGANA?
 WINEMAG.COM

Unions, Labor Rights and the

Future of Winery Workers BY
JA H D É
MA R L E Y

In
1935, President Franklin D. those at the heart of the $68 billion U.S.
Roosevelt signed the National wine business?
Labor Relations Act (NLRA) Adelaida Mendoza has worked the
into law. It allowed employees to vineyards at Washington’s Chateau Ste.
unionize and negotiate competitive wages Michelle for 21 years. She’s among the Follow us @WineEnthusiast
and working conditions. Agricultural 100-plus unionized agricultural and cellar
workers, however, were not included. workers employed there.
The treatment of agricultural workers in At Chateau Ste. Michelle, workers and
the United States is “deep in the shadows their families are given health insurance. of these significant issues. However, as
of slavery,” says Elizabeth Strater, director Employees also receive overtime and Klug says, the weight of union policies
of strategic campaigns for the United Farm paid time off. Additionally, there’s a path intended for corporations are not always
Workers of America (UFW), the country’s for professional growth and increase in sustainable for small-scale agrarian
largest union for agricultural workers. salary based on worker grades: Grade 1 is businesses in the U.S.
A precursor to the UFW, the National a seasonal harvest worker, Grade 2 tends Adrian Cornejo, cofounder of Nueva
Farm Workers Association (NFWA) was to the vines year-round and Grade 3 Aventura Wine and the supervisor of Hiyu
created in 1962 by labor activists Cesar operates equipment. Farm in Oregon, believes the question is
Chavez and Dolores Huerta. The NFWA Mendoza says that her workplace complex. Unions are not always the answer,
advocated for workers in California’s provides stability, and that her bosses can’t he says, because people and communities
most lucrative agricultural industry: leverage how there might be two or three can have different motivations. Not
grape growing. After years of boycotts people ready to replace anyone at any time. everyone wants to stay in one place as an
and community organization, the NFWA Zack Klug, founder and former hourly or salaried worker.
secured the California Agricultural Labor winemaker of Liten Buffel in Middleport, “I believe the seasonal worker situation
Relations Act (ALRA), which guaranteed New York, believes unions are especially is, if you’re willing to bust your butt, you
the rights of farm workers to organize and vital for large vineyards. can make a lot of money,” he says. “But you
collectively bargain. “Locally, we’ve had issues where people really have to bust your butt.”
California is the only state that extends die on migrant camps…and that’s the A community approach is key, he
these types of protections to agricultural couple hundred-acre apple farm,” says says. Accommodation costs vary, and
workers. All other states require union Klug. “Who knows what is going on in a farm owners need to ensure that workers
approval by employers. 2,000-acre vineyard that requires even can afford the cost of living in the
NATE READY

Are unions currently necessary for farm more hands-on impact from people that surrounding communities…
workers? Or are there other, more effective [those who aren’t working] don’t see.”
For the full story, visit winemag.com/LaborUnions
ways to ensure the safety and security of Unionization can be a solution to some

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Please Drink Responsibly. ©2021 King Estate Winery, Eugene, Oregon
 VERY ITALIAN,

franciacorta.net @franciacorta
ERY FRANCIACORTA

An extraordinary region, stretching into the Alpine foothills, rich in art and natural
treasures. A desire to grow grapes in harmony with its environment, in line with natural
and sustainability principles. An ancient culture yielding premium wines accompanies
toasts and tastings, providing pleasure, lightness and joy. An inimitable lifestyle ,
recognized across the world; a unique wine that adds sparkle to every moment .
Welcome to Franciacorta.

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013

CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013
CHICKEN
ALLA CUCINA
A major influence on winemaking
the world over, Italy’s enduring
and evolving vinous culture is a
central focus of this issue. But
the country’s dining traditions
have no doubt been just as
impactful. Ahead, learn more
about three Italian dishes that
feature easy-to-find and easy-
to-love cuts of chicken, and have
become fixtures of the American
culinary canon. >>

WINEMAG.COM | 15
 CHICKEN FEED

MOLTO POLLO
Between 1880 and
the dawn of World
War I in 1914, millions
emigrated from Italy
to the U.S. and forever
changed the country
in myriad ways—
not least its wine
and food. Chicken
cacciatore, piccata
and saltimbocca are
just three examples
of the many Italian BY
NILS
dishes that have since B E R N ST E I N
become an enduring
part of the American P H OTOS BY
culinary canon. While JENS JOHNSON
several variations exist, FOOD STYLING BY
read on to discover the ELIZABETH BELL
essential components
of each alongside intel
to help you match
them expertly
with wine. 

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 CHICKEN CACCIATORE 
WHAT IT IS: Today, cacciatore is taken to mean a wide variety
of preparations. James Beard, an American chef and cookbook
author, once said, “practically everything but a henna rinse has
been given the chicken which goes by this name.” Technically
speaking, however, cacciatore translates to “hunter.” And in
the culinary world, it’s often understood as chicken or rabbit
braised with tomatoes, herbs, onions and garlic, a nod to
hunters’ use of garlic and strong herbs to season game. Several
regions of central Italy, especially Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio,
claim to be the origin of cacciatore, but it’s a dish with nearly as
many versions as there are cooks.

HOW TO PAIR IT: Regardless of your exact preparation, a safe

bet would be a young Sangiovese, like Rosso di Montalcino or
Chianti. Sangiovese is a classic pairing with tomato sauces, as it
often boasts flavors of roasted tomato, and it stands up well to
garlic, spices and dried herbs. Another option is Primitivo. The
popular Puglian pour is perfect with roasted, braised and grilled
meats, especially those with powerful, concentrated flavors. 

CHICKEN PICCATA 
WHAT IT IS: Piccata essentially means “sharp” or “piquant.”
In Italy, many different cuts of meat can be used, with the
commonalities being the piquant addition of citrus and
capers. But in the U.S., piccata most closely resembles
Wondering how to make
piccata Milanese, a regional Lombardy take featuring thin-
the dishes shown?
pounded veal, chicken or thin-sliced swordfish cooked quickly
Head to winemag.com/
in butter and seasoned simply with lemon and capers.
ItalianChickenRecipes for
As American veal consumption started to decline in the 1960s,
recipes plus bottlings to pair
chicken became increasingly popular. Now, it’s likely the most
perfectly with each.
common piccata stateside. 

HOW TO PAIR IT: Lemon and capers are what complicate

things. The zippy pops of flavor need a wine with enough
acidity to match. However, chicken browned in copious
amounts of butter or oil needs wine with some structure.
While an oak-aged Chardonnay could merge well with the
citrus and butter elements, a lighter-bodied red wine would
contribute tannins to help cut the fat and refresh the palate.
Nerello Mascalese, a dark-skinned Sicilian grape, offers
a solution. It makes crisp, light-bodied wines that can be
intensely aromatic and flavorful, and would lend fresh red fruit,
herb and spice notes. Also try Valtellina Superiore, elegant,
Nebbiolo-based wines made in the mountains of Lombardy
that can be lighter-bodied alternatives to Barolo or Barbaresco. 

CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA 
WHAT IT IS: Salt’ im bocca, “jump in the mouth,” is an apt
name for this lively dish made originally with veal layered
with prosciutto and sage. Though many consider it a Roman
classic, historians trace it to Brescia, in the Lombardy region.
Regardless, it’s now beloved throughout Italy. As with piccata,
the veal has been largely supplanted by chicken in the U.S.,
though flattened pork cutlets are also a popular variation.
The chicken can be prepared flat or rolled like roulade. In
some versions, sage is replaced with basil, and cheese is also a
popular addition.  

HOW TO PAIR IT: Saltimbocca has several powerful flavors.

You’ll want something with some intensity and body but also
with enough acid to cut through richer characters. The white
blends of Collio, a region near the Slovenian border in Friuli-
Venezia Giulia, can be beautiful with saltimbocca. They’re bold
and structured, with elegance, refreshing acidity and complex
minerality. Another interesting choice would be Timorasso, a
lesser-known Piedmont white. Intense and full bodied, it shows
crisp acidity among flavors of creamy stone fruit, cooked apple
and wildflower honey with a savory herbal undercurrent that
would pull out the sage.

WINEMAG.COM | 17
SPECIAL PROMOTION
 FLIGHT SCHOOL

CENTRAL COAST “
There’s nothing petite about Petite Sirah,” is the common
refrain for this robust red grape with a one-two punch of hard
tannins and searing acidity. 
A hybrid of Peloursin and Syrah developed by French botanist

CHAMPIONS
François Durif in the 1800s, it never caught on much in the Old
World. But in California, the thick-skinned variety was embraced by
the 19th-century winemakers of the state’s emergent wine industry.
Today, Petite Sirah’s 12,000 or so California acres make it the
state’s sixth most-planted red variety. While used commonly to

PETITE SIRAH
add impact and structure to blends or turned into uberripe, teeth-
staining varietal wines, producers are now exploring its nuances and
showcase more than the inky richness for which it’s known. 
This is especially true throughout the Central Coast, where a
range of microclimates encourages producer ingenuity and yields a
diverse set of bottlings.
Get a taste of how the California region Despite reliably warm temperatures in Paso Robles and inland
parts of the Santa Ynez Valley, for example, winemakers who study
has achieved greatness with the grape. each vintage intensely are able to achieve an elusive balance between
structure and acidity. The resulting wines deliver layers of elegance
SIX TO SAMPLE & SIP
and brawny strength.
In the foggy, windswept Edna Valley and Alisos Canyon
Brady Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles); $24 
This boasts opulent dark fruits offset by purple appellations, meanwhile, Petite Sirah exudes similar savory and
flowers and a tarry charcoal tone. floral characteristics as cool-climate Syrah: cracked pepper,
Chronic Cellars Suite Petite (Paso Robles); $15 cured meat and violets, as well as a lush fruit backbone.
Here, a study of purple fruit and flower aromas and
flavors is offered alongside barrel spice. 
—Matt Kettmann

Epiphany Rodney’s Vineyard Petite Sirah

(Santa Barbara County); $37 
From a warm corner of a cool region, this brings
smoked meat and stone to a black currant party.
MCV Gemeny Vineyards Petite Sirah
(Paso Robles); $52  
A single-vineyard showcase, this has hard-hitting
tannins that release into acid-washed blueberry
sorbet and violet flavors.
Jaffurs Thompson Vineyard Petite Sirah
(Santa Barbara County); $38
From Alisos Canyon, this is a spicy show of fresh
flowers and pepper around a blueberry sorbet core.
Wolff Petite Sirah (Edna Valley); $35 
Grown just four miles from the coast, this shows
ample cola spice and dark cherry flavors. 

TOM ARENA

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

PORT RELATIONS T
his riff on the Negroni
was intended initially for
a holiday menu, says Josh
Rosenmeier, the bartender
who devised the drink for
Bia, an Irish restaurant in New York’s
Hudson Valley region. Its name is a
Try this potent take on the Negroni named for one of reference to Randy Quaid’s cringeworthy
cinema’s most memorable cousins. character in the 1989 film National
Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. However,
this robust sipper, enriched with tawny
Port and coffee-infused Campari, would
also be ideal for the cooler fall weather
ahead. —Kara Newman

COUSIN EDDIE
Courtesy Josh Rosenmeier,
bartender, Bia, Rhinebeck, NY

1½ ounces Del Maguey Vida Mezcal

1 ounce 10-year tawny Port
1 ounce coffee bean-infused Campari*
Orange twist, for garnish

In mixing glass, stir all ingredients

with ice, except garnish. Strain over
large ice cube into rocks glass. Garnish
with orange twist.

*COFFEE BEAN-INFUSED
CAMPARI
Add 2 whole coffee beans
and 4 ounces Campari to
glass jar. Cover, and let
infuse overnight or up to 24
hours. Strain into clean jar,
and discard coffee beans.
Sealed, infused Campari
TOM ARENA

will keep indefinitely. Yields

4 ounces.

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Q&A

“I’ve been
encouraging people
to drink less, but
better, to really get
interested in what’s
in the glass.”

a week after. Someone

estimated they spent $5
million just on Covid-19
precautions.

You’ve gushed openly about

the magic of Central Otago. Do
you feel the same now?
Someone once said, “You
For more from can love many places in the
Sam Neill,
please visit
world, but you can only be in
winemag.com/ love with one.” The only place
SamNeill
in the world I’m in love with
is Central Otago. I get off the

BIG PICTURE PINOT

plane, and within an hour, I
Have the pandemic and feel completely at home.
various quarantines changed
your perspective on wine? You recently produced a
I’ve been encouraging people small amount of Pinot Noir
to drink less, but better, to naturally, without intervention
Actor Sam Neill shares his perspectives on really get interested in what’s or preservatives like sulfur.
in the glass, who grew it, what Did you find much difference
natural wine, pandemic life and what comes next. it’s about... When you’re between that and the Pinot

T
hough movie fans may know him for blockbusters locked down and putting up you make conventionally?
like Jurassic Park or indie flicks like Hunt for the with your own company...you We made two small batches
Wilderpeople, Sam Neill’s reputation in the wine world might as well be mindful of from exactly the same plot:

CHRISTOPHER DAVID THOMPSON/TWO PADDOCKS

hangs on Pinot Noir. what you’re doing. the Fusilier Vineyard in
In 1993, he established Two Paddocks winery in Bannockburn. One was
Central Otago, New Zealand. Since then, the estate has earned What was it like to film Jurassic a natural wine, and one
accolades for vibrant, transparent Pinots produced from four World during a pandemic? was classic. It was really
distinct vineyards. That was an unusual interesting, the results,
We last chatted with Neill back in 2008. With Jurassic World: experience and one of the because they were completely
Dominion now on the horizon, we decided to check in again— toughest I’ve ever had. We different wines. They could
this time, via Zoom from his quarantine hotel room in Auckland, were locked up for effectively have been from a different
New Zealand—to learn more about how 2020’s events altered his four to five months, tested vineyard altogether, but
perspective on wine and why natural wine can be interesting. every day for 10 days when they were from exactly the
—Lauren Mowery we arrived, and three times same grapes.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

www.tributewine.com
© 2021 Universal Wine Network, Livermore, CA
 ONE CLAY AT A TIME

MORE THAN AMPHORAE

FOUR PROMINENT
CLAY POTS
FROM HISTORY

Increasingly adapted by modern-day

wine producers, the age-old practice
of vinification using clay containers is
becoming more recognized by today’s GEORGIAN QVEVRI
beverage lovers. Yet, “amphora” remains Georgia’s use of these large, egg-
misused as a blanket term to refer to any shaped clay vases pitched in
beeswax was added to UNESCO’s
clay vessel used to ferment and age wine. list of Intangible Cultural
Heritage in 2013.
Read on for a quick history lesson, then
explore a few other jars worth knowing.
—Farrah Berrou

F
rom the Greek word amphiphoreus for
“something which can be carried from PHOENICIAN
both sides,” amphorae are oblong, two- TORPEDO
handled vases with fat bodies, pointed Designed to stack well, these
held a little more than five
ends and narrow necks, a 15th-century gallons and may have been a
BCE invention of the Canaanites who inhabited standardized shipping unit for
the Syrian-Lebanese coast. They were crafted trading in the 8th century BCE.
from clay not for vinous reasons, but because it
was an abundant natural resource.
The vessels were easy to produce, ship and
reuse. Utilitarian, their bulbous shape provided
maximum storage space, tapered ends allowed for
rolling and slender necks helped manage pouring. 
With interiors pitched in pine resin to render AEGEAN CHIAN
them waterproof, amphorae were used to hold AMPHORA 
wine, but were also packed with goods like oil, An early example of consumer
grains and nuts. Sealed with a plaster stopper, they packaging designed to sell its
contents, these bore markings
would be layered in the hull of a ship, sent across that told customers their origins
the seas and exchanged widely throughout the and what to expect inside.
Mediterranean Basin.
The use of clay jars for wine production in
particular can be traced to 6000 BCE Georgia.
Massive stationary vessels called qvevri, some
more than 250 times the size of amphorae, were TYRRHENIAN
kept cool underground.  DRESSEL 1B 
Here, clay was used to the wine’s benefit. Sealed with lime-pozzolana
Granularly speaking, clay is inert and porous, (volcanic ash) paste, some have
which allows for steady temperature regulation been discovered with a pinecone
under the cork, thought to be
and microoxygenation without absorbing flavors, a preservation technique of
ERIC DEFREITAS

aromas or tannins like other materials like oak. ancient Rome.

Utilized throughout the entirety of production,
intact containers were reused indefinitely. 

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Beyond rare vintages
Recreating the perfect year

Photographer Iris Velghe - Design LUMA

98/100 95/100 97/100

Grand Siècle Nº22 in magnum. Extremely limited. www.grandsiecle.com

#grandsiecle

P L E A S E D R I N K R E S P O N S I B LY
 AMERICAN IDYLL

OFF THE DOCK

Lazy mornings, afternoon swims and days capped with a glass of
local wine enjoyed by the firepit—these are the simple pleasures
of a lakeside escape. Here, discover five American lakes that offer
outdoor activities aplenty and thriving wine scenes set against
sweeping scenery. —Lauren Mowery

LAKE CHELAN, WA
Hop on a floatplane to go wine
tasting on Lake Chelan. The
55-mile sliver of water sits
about four hours northeast
of Seattle, not far from the
base of the North Cascades
LAKE MICHIGAN, MI mountain range near the
Towering sand dunes lapped Canadian border. Northwest
by clear blue tides evoke a Seaplanes collects passengers
scene from a Caribbean island. near Seattle’s Sea-Tac Airport
Yet, Michigan’s Sleeping Bear for the hour flight to the lake.
Dunes National Lakeshore Back on the ground, stay at
draws crowds for its similarly family-owned, family-friendly
crystalline waters and Campbell’s Waterfront Resort
dramatic setting. The state’s and embark via kayak or stand-
Lake Chelan
bustling wine scene is a bonus. up paddleboard. The lake’s
A cool-climate growing region, dry, cool climate compares to
the Leelanau and Old Mission Canada’s Okanagan Valley, and
Peninsulas specialize in it allows vintners to grow red
Riesling and other white grapes grapes like Syrah and Cabernet
like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio Franc, as well as whites like
and Gewürztraminer, plus reds Riesling. Try Vin du Lac for crisp
like Gamay and Pinot Noir. Riesling and with lake views,
You can use Traverse City as a or check out Karma Vineyards,
base for day trips to the area’s one of state’s few producers of
multiple wine trails, but groups traditional-method sparkling
or families should consider wine. At dusk, grab a bottle
GETTY IMAGES

Royal Stag Properties or of rosé and a few Adirondack

Lakemore Resort rental homes. chairs at Mellisoni Vineyards
They offer lodging near the to watch the sunset reflect in
water or close to vineyards. the water.

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Lake Champlain

Lake Ontario

LAKE
SENECA LAKE, NY LAKE ONTARIO, NY CHAMPLAIN, VT
In northwestern New York, This is the smallest and This lake named for French
wine growing flourishes around easternmost of the Great explorer Samuel de Champlain,
the Finger Lakes, a series of Lakes. A geological formation who encountered it in 1609,
glacial gouges that evoke the called the Niagara Escarpment, also touches the shores of
swipe of a celestial bear paw. essentially an eroded cliff, New York and Quebec. It
Almost 38 miles long and up runs east to west along its was formed by retreating
to 618 feet deep, vineyard- southwest border and all the glaciers. These scraped out
lined Seneca Lake is the one way to Illinois via Ontario, the surrounding basin, where
that holds the most water. Michigan and Wisconsin. In vineyards and cideries now
Look for affordable dry Riesling New York’s Niagara Escarpment form the Champlain Valley
from Ravines Wine Cellars, American Viticultural Area Wine Trail. Wineries specialize
Osmote, Nathan K. and Forge (AVA), warm lake air trapped in cold-hardy hybrids. Lincoln Lake Michigan
Cellars; German-style whites by the limestone shelf allows Peak Vineyard led early efforts
at Hermann J. Wiemer and winemakers to ripen reds like of production from grapes like
traditional-method sparklers Pinot Noir and Syrah. Liten Marquette and Farnsworth,
from Red Tail Ridge. After a Buffel, Arrowhead Spring but the natural wines of La
long day of touring area farms Vineyards and Freedom Run Garagista, about 80 miles
and cellars, seek a soak at Winery demonstrate the area’s south of Burlington, are what
Seneca Lake State Park on the potential. To stay waterside, really helped put the state
lake’s northern tip, or the clear park an RV or pitch a tent at on wine lovers’ radar. Closer
waters of Sampson State Park Niagara’s Lazy Lakes Camping to the water, Iapetus Wine,
on the east side. Alternatively, Resort. Alertnatively, Buffalo made at Shelburne Vineyard,
venture two lakes and about a sits 30 minutes south of the offers skin-contact whites and
half hour drive to the west and region’s heart, and has plenty carbonic macerated reds. To
splash around the pool at The of lodging options. Also nearby, cool off after a few glasses,
Lake House on Canandaigua. a refreshing spray at Niagara grab a swim at the public
The boutique property offers Falls would be a nice end to beaches of Leddy Beach and
canoes, kayaks and more. any trip. North Beach near Burlington.

Seneca Lake
 RECIPE OF THE MONTH

SUPRA FOOD
BULGARULI NIGVZIT (ROASTED RED
PEPPERS WITH WALNUT PASTE)
Courtesy Dimitri Sakaliuk, owner,
Pomegranate, San Diego
12 ounces walnuts, 3 tablespoons
These flavor-packed peppers plus more to pickle juice
offer a taste of Georgian culture. garnish 1 tablespoon
½ cup onion, white wine
sautéed in vinegar

In
Georgia, a supra is a traditional feast
olive oil 3 tablespoons
that spans several hours and courses,
1 clove garlic, pomegranate
beginning with an array of vegetable minced seeds, plus more
dishes like these stuffed peppers. The to garnish
½ teaspoon
recipe detailed here is from San Diego’s Pomegranate, coriander, 3 tablespoons
one of the longest-running Eastern European restaurants in Southern California. It includes ground fine cilantro,
khmeli suneli, a multipurpose seasoning made from regional herbs and spices, which is used 4 tablespoons chopped, plus
grapeseed oil more to garnish
widely in Georgian cuisine. Though available at specialty shops and online, it’s also easy
1 40-ounce jar
enough to mimic with a mix of spices found commonly in U.S. supermarkets. ½ teaspoon saffron
whole fire-
—Mike DeSimone ½ teaspoon salt roasted red
3 tablespoons peppers, drained
khmeli suneli*

In food processor, combine walnuts,

onion, garlic, coriander, grapeseed oil,
saffron, salt, khmeli suneli, pickle juice
and vinegar. Process until well incorpo-
rated. Slowly add hot water until thick
paste forms. Transfer filling to mixing
bowl, and stir in pomegranate seeds and
chopped cilantro gently.
Trim ends from peppers and discard.
Lay peppers flat, and spread 2–3 table-
spoons filling atop each. Beginning from
longer ends, roll each lengthwise into logs.
Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate
until well chilled, at least 5 hours.
Just before serving, remove stuffed
peppers from refrigerator. Use sharp knife
to cut each pepper log into 1-inch-thick
slices. Arrange stuffed peppers on plates
or serving platter and garnish. Serves 6–8.

*Blend equal amounts ground coriander

seed, dried dill, dried marjoram, dried
mint, dried parsley, crumbled fenugreek
leaves and crushed bay leaves.

PHOTO: JENS JOHNSON, FOOD: ELIZABETH BELL

WINE PAIRING
Orgo 2018 Dry Amber Wine From Old
Vineyards Rkatsiteli (Kakheti)
Fermented and aged in clay qvevri, this wine
from native Georgian grapes has tropical fruit and
clove flavors that will hold up to both the richly
spiced, slightly bitter walnuts and the acidity of
the peppers. Meanwhile, its firm tannins, derived
from long skin contact, are a good match for the
walnut filling’s earthiness.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Nivole
More to Love,
More to Share
Available in 375 mL
and NEW 750 mL

www.michelechiarlo.it

Please Drink Responsibly. ©2021

 SPEAK & SPILL

ON YOUR W
hen Tamy Rofe, partner at Brooklyn, New York’s PERSONALITY
Colonia Verde Restaurant and Comparti Catering, Get to know a wine as
was studying for her sommelier certification, there you would a person.
was a lot of emphasis placed on vocabulary. Think about the traits or

OWN
quirks that stand out.
She remembers being given a wine aroma wheel, for example.
If you’re unfamiliar, imagine a pie chart divided into slices that Ask yourself: How would
represent fragrances or flavors. An industry standard, it’s designed I introduce this wine at a
party?
using specific terminology to create a systematic language for tasting
notes and analysis.

TERMS
Examples: Rofe may
“Everyone’s literally speaking the same language,” says Rofe. describe a wine as
“But…I like the rebellious idea of throwing that away and starting “generous” if it’s rich, full-
bodied and giving, while
from scratch.” 
she may consider a wine
She’s not alone. As the wine world evolves to reach new with springy lightness to
generations and a wider range of people, so does the language used be “charming.”

It’s time to rethink to describe it. Many have begun to break away from shared verbiage.
“I grew up in Chicago, where there is no ‘forest floor,’” says
how we analyze and Alicia Towns Franken, vice president of Archer Roose and head of
PAIRABILITY
discuss wine. mentorship at Wine Unify. “If we want more people to drink wine,
Consider wine a costar
to the current menu or
we have to include them in the words we use to discuss wine.”  in relation to your own
This doesn’t necessarily mean replacing a term like forest floor personal preferences.
with, say, subway platform. It’s more about exploring attributes Ask yourself: How does
beyond flavor like how a wine makes you feel. this jive with the flavors on
Right, get the hang of some different ways to consider wine. my table right now?
—Hannah Howard
Examples: “When I started
out, a fiasco [of Chianti]
was the classic pizza
wine,” says Towns Franken.
But you might prefer “a
fruity Lambrusco, or... pricy
Champagne.” The perfect
pairing is the one you
like best.

SENSORY
EXPERIENCE
Our own sense of a wine
depends on more than
taste or smell. “[The]
type of day I’ve had…
who I’m with, even my
body temperature,” says
Towns Franken, can all
play a role.

Ask yourself: How does

this wine make me feel?
Does it remind me of a
certain moment?

Examples: A glass savored

on vacation may recall
TOM ARENA

rest and relaxation or may

taste totally different at
your kitchen table.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 At Nickel & Nickel, every one of our single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabernets
is the pure expression of its particular vineyard and varietal. No two vineyards are alike.
No two Nickel & Nickel wines are alike. All of which assures devoted wine lovers
of a singular and extraordinary experience every time.

learn more at: nickelandnickel.com ©2021 NICKEL & NICKEL, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
 PAIROLOGY

THINK FIG

JAMMY
A fresh fig’s
concentrated flavors
vary in ripeness
and can bring to
mind fresh berry
compotes or jams.
Often blended into
Southern Rhône reds
or Provençal rosés,
In the ceiling frescoes of Cinsault also makes
easy-drinking varietal
the Sistine Chapel, wines with a cheery
red-berry character.
Adam and Eve’s
“forbidden fruit” 
HONEYED
is a fig, not a Ripe figs have a
pomegranate, sticky sweetness that
resembles honey,
grape or apple. with complex hints
of bitterness and
But regardless of spice. This quality
pops alongside
whether figs were Roussanne, which
the seed-bearing fruits can have similar rich
flavors of honey, in
mentioned in the Bible, addition to apricot
and fresh flowers.
they’ve been part of the
human diet for millennia. 
RAISINY
In fact, some researchers Dried figs have an
now believe they may obvious similarity to
prunes, but fresh figs
have been the first share dusky black-
fruit notes, too. The
ever cultivated plants. darkest and sweetest
Sherry, Pedro
Subtropical fruits, fresh figs Ximénez, has dried-
are icons of late summer, fruit flavors as well
as hints of nuts and
at their peak from roughly coffee that are quite
fig friendly. 
August to October, with
nectar that bursts from 
EARTHY
their velvety skins like water Both fresh and
escaping a dam. Dried figs, dried figs possess
a subtle damp and
meanwhile, are widely earthy scent that can
recall mushrooms or
available all year. The truffles. This damp
character goes well
unique flavors of both allow with Nebbiolo,
for a full spectrum which can offer
aromas of tar or clay
of wine pairings. in addition to its
OFFSET

dried-flower and red-

—Nils Bernstein fruit notes.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 BETTER WITH AGE

OLD ROME L
ast May, the remains of a beautiful Roman mosaic floor were
found under a northern Italian vineyard. This caused great
excitement and was a fresh reminder of ancient Romans’ huge
influence on our wine culture.
Roman soldiers who marched north to conquer Gaul,

DAYS
as France was called then, and other parts of Europe carried great
amphorae of wine along with their swords and shields. When the
battles were won, and those soldiers were paid off in land, they
swapped those swords for ploughshares and planted vines.

TECHNICALLY SPEAKING
Learn how ancient It wasn’t just that the Romans made wine, however. They were
also very knowledgeable about soil types, planting, pruning and
Romans shaped trellising, often training vines up trees.
the way we Their knowledge didn’t end in the vineyard. They fined wines
drink now. with pigeons’ eggs and cellared better vintages. Given the poet
Martial’s waspish descriptions of “venom” or “the black poison of
Corsica,” the Romans could even be said to have invented wine criticism.
Today, we’re retracing many of their steps. Many wineries are
choosing to go back to fermenting in amphorae, which was standard
practice in the Roman Empire.
In the northern Rhône, winemakers are replanting defunct vineyards
that were praised two millennia ago then neglected after the Roman
Empire crumbled, their location eventually forgotten.
Similarly, vineyards on Mount Vesuvius that were buried when the
volcano erupted are seeing new life. Guided in part by writing from
Pliny the Elder, archaeologists and viticulturists have recovered the
plots and are taking advantage of rich volcanic soil.
And, while William Younger, in his 1966 book Gods, Men
and Wine, finds it “ludicrous” when 1st-century writers
Columella and Pliny the Elder describe planting,
manuring and grafting according to the phases of
the moon, that sounds a lot like biodynamics.

CULTURAL CONTEXT
Most of all, our modern attitude to wine is
similar to that of the ancient Romans. They
saw it as a universal right, rather than the
prerogative of the elite. For them, wine was
pleasure, relaxation and ritual.
“Remember,” wrote the Roman poet
Horace, “to end life’s gloom and troubles
SHUTTERSTOCK

with mellow wine.”

That advice is as good now as it was then.
And perhaps the wine in question isn’t so
different either. —Nina Caplan

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Proud Partners

GOTTWINES.COM
©2021 JOEL GOTT WINES, ST. HELENA, CA
YOU WIN SOME, I
have to apologize to many of tinned fish, olives and toast,
of the sommeliers who have but I think a good one might
enhanced my meals over the point me toward something
years: I wasn’t my truest, less aromatic and more

YOU LOSE SOMM

most authentic self with you. mineral-driven. They’d be
I’m sure you don’t care—in right, save for the pleasure of
an ideal scenario, you stop finding something that works
thinking about me the second unexpectedly and lets me feel
you walk away from my table. like a bit of a rebel.
A year and a half of home dining has brought about But so many of you have told Similarly, when I’ve
a whole new perspective on pairing. me that you want guests to be ordered a bottle of wine with
honest and open. takeout from a nice restaurant,
It’s only now that we’re I haven’t felt any pressure to
apart that I realize I haven’t pick the perfect pairing for
always been. my order. I just pick a bottle I
I’ve always so enjoyed want to try. If it doesn’t work,
our ritual. I tell you what it can serve as inspiration for
wines I like, we discuss the the following night’s dinner. In
dishes I’m eating. You don’t a pinch, there’s always beer in
just recommend a glass or my fridge.
bottle—you usually teach The last bit of freedom I’ve
me something. Maybe you noticed is that I’ve just been
expose me to a region or style drinking slower, spending
I haven’t experienced, or you more time nosing and
clue me in to the benefit of analyzing. And then taking a
some winemaking technique. bite of food, and doing it again.
I love this interaction so I never have to worry about
much that I slip into my role, camping out, because no one’s
reflexively fawning over the waiting to turn over my dining
beauty of your selections. room table.
Now, I can see that this routine It’s been an enlightening
has been bit of a distraction way to drink. Whenever you
from just enjoying. somms are ready to have me
The past year and a half back, I’ll share this newfound
has been hard on restaurants. free spirit with you.
Many of you somms have agi-
tated for to-go wine service in
many states; some of you have
had to sell off parts of your cel-
lars; and all of you have had to
figure out how to find the best
wine for each dish and each
diner without interaction.
At the same time, in the
privacy of my home, with
There’s only my dog and wine-averse
husband by my table, I’ve
pleasure in finding
learned to be adventurous
something that works with my pairings in a new way.
unexpectedly and lets me I don’t think any decent Associate Managing Editor of Print
SHUTTERSTOCK

feel like a bit of a rebel. somm would ever judge me Layla Schlack is willing to give up her
favorite pairing—wine and pajamas—
for pairing, say, a crisp glass
for restaurant dining.
of Viognier with a lazy dinner

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 SPECIAL PROMOTION

AUTHENTIC, ORIGINAL AND WILDLY DIVERSE:

MEET THE WINES OF SOUTHWEST FRANCE

Nature and history have endowed Southwest France with an incredible vinous heritage,
which means a plethora of drinking delights for wine lovers curious to discover the
unique richness of this region.

Stretching from the Atlantic ocean in the west to the highlands Of Southwest France’s native grapes, three are prominent
of the Massif Central in the east and the snow-capped Pyrenees today at international level: Malbec has made its home in
mountains in the south, a total of 300 different grapes are Argentina, Tannat has put down roots in neighboring Uruguay
planted across this vast area, and Southwest France is cradle and Cabernet Franc is the ancestor of Carménère, Chile’s
to some of the world’s most popular grapes (think Malbec, emblematic grape. But their original birthplace in Southwest
Cabernet Franc and Merlot). France is where these cultivars really thrive, most notably in
the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégéé) areas of Madiran
However, it is also home to around 130 indigenous varieties: the and Saint Mont for Tannat (Cabernet Franc is native to the
diverse geography of the region’s vineyards – be they planted Pyrenees), and Cahors for Malbec.
on mountain foothills, nestled in river basins or windswept by
the Atlantic ocean – means that rare grapes found nowhere else The wines of Southwest France offer an incomparable range
in the world can be grown here (a valuable asset in the context of colors and styles. Red, white or rosé, still or sparkling, sweet
of climate change). or dry, this region has it all. These characterful wines are its
wealth, the result of centuries of painstaking toil, and the
Ƶ˜ƵƧǞȌȁȌǏǞƧɐ ɐƊ ȌȌƊȁƮǞƧǘǘǞȌɯ‫خ‬

Photo Credit: Patrick Poupart

 SPECIAL PROMOTION

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RED, WHITE OR ROSÉ SWEET OR SPARKLING

Southwest France is famous Southwest France is famous for
ǏȌƮƵƵ‫˜ة‬ƊɨȌǏɐ ‫ة‬Ǐɐ ٌƦȌƮǞƵƮ
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red blends forged from ancient
varieties like Malbec, Cabernet cellent sweet and sparkling wines
Franc, Tannat, Négrette, Duras can also be found in Southwest
and Fer Servadou. France, often made using local,
There is no shortage of white ancestral methods. For the former,
grapes either, used to create passerillage (leaving the grapes to
bottles full of charm: look for dry out to obtain a higher sugar
names such as Colombard and concentration, as in Pacherenc du
Sauvignon (mostly found in AOP Vic-Bilh) or noble rot come into
Côtes de Gascogne), Mauzac
and Loin de l’œil (originally from play, with Monbazillac and Gaillac
Gaillac), not forgetting Petit and providing some truly great value
Gros Manseng (found in the sweet whites. The region’s bub-
Côtes de Gascogne, Saint Mont bles originate most notably in the
and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOP areas).
Gaillac AOP, where Mauzac brings
Rosé fans have the choice of refreshing styles like those from a distinctive green apple note to the wines which come in
Fronton, made with grainy local variety Négrette, or riper, Ɗ ƮƵǐƵƵȌǏɩƵƵȁƵƊȁƮ˛ɹɹǞȁƵ‫خ‬
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Marcillac, Côtes de Gascogne and Comté Tolosan.
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FROM SOUTHWEST FRANCE TO SOUTH AMERICA

Around 100 miles apart, the Southwest AOPs of Madiran and Cahors make marvelous red wines that
command respect at home and abroad.

Producers from Madiran (along with those of Saint Mont, Tursan and Irouleguy) have tamed the Tannat
ǐƊƵ‫ة‬ǏƊǿǞȁǐɨǞȁƵɯƊƮȌȁƵƵǘǞ ƊȁƮǞǐǘɨƊ ƵɯɩǞǘǞȁǞǐǘȌǏǘƵ§ɯƵȁƵƵȌƧƊǏǿȌɐǘٌ˛ -
ing wines with generous black fruit character and astonishing intensity; many make two styles, one
softer and fruit-driven, the other big, bold and barrel-aged for mid- to long-term cellaring.
Before Malbec migrated to Argentina it was grown in Cahors and the grape is still deeply rooted here,
particularly in the spectacular hilly terrain of the Lot valley where it is used to create imposing yet often
elegant, sophisticated bottlings.

Steeped in history and tradition, these appellations provide a wealth of choice, from value-driven
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with their authenticity and sheer drinking pleasure.

Take a closer look at Southwest wines:

www.instagram.com/winesofswfrance/ | www.vignobles-sudouest.fr

SIGNATIO
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ORIGI
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• •
 Tenuta delle Terre Nere
Marc de Grazia, formerly a wine broker and founder of Marc de Grazia Selections, created Tenute
delle Terre Nere on Mount Etna in 2001. The estate owns vineyards in six subzones or crus called
contrade: Calderara Sottana, San Lorenzo, Bocca d’Orzo, Santo Spirito, Guardiola and Feudo di
Mezzo, all in the north. His debut release was the 2002 Etna Rosso Guardiola, the first contrada-
specific wine from Etna. It was followed by Calderara Sottana in 2003 and Feudo di Mezzo in 2004.
De Grazia was an early advocate of contrade distinctions, which became official in 2011.
Terrain and soils are key, as you can see at the estate. While gently curving terraces, green grass
and deep volcanic ash distinguish the Santo Spirito contrada, the Guardiola cru just above it is
steeper and with poorer soils that consist of volcanic sand and basalt stones.
“The differences in the two contrade are mirrored in the wines,” says de Grazia. “Santo Spirito
is almost creamy, while Guardiola is tense and more austere.”
Terre Nere’s full-bodied, balanced reds are mostly Nerello Mascalese and a drop of Nerello
Cappuccio. Its most famous red, the captivating Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, origi-
nates from ungrafted vines planted in the late 1800s that survived phylloxera.
The estate also makes a savory rosato from Nerello Mascalese and several whites like the
crisp Etna Bianco, made primarily with native grape Carricante and other white natives. Vigne
Niche and the contrada whites are fermented and aged in oak and have more complexity. De
Grazia also makes a linear, austere Etna Bianco Superiore from grapes grown in Milo on the
eastern slopes, the most storied area on Etna for white wine production.

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Franchetti-
Passopisciaro
When Andrea Franchetti arrived on
Mount Etna in 2000, he found desola-
tion and abandoned vineyards. He also
saw untapped potential, thanks to unique
growing conditions including intense
sunlight, extremely high altitudes, marked
day-night temperature swings and
extremely old, free-standing bush vines
known as albarello. Many of these vines
survived phylloxera and weren’t grafted
on American rootstocks.
Franchetti, who already had a
successful winery in Tuscany, Tenuta
Trinoro, was one of the first of the modern
trailblazers to arrive on the volcano. He
realized he had to change his winemaking
approach on Etna. At Passopisciaro, on
Etna’s northern slopes, he strives for
elegance and pristine expressions of the
wine’s unique terroir, rather than concen-
tration and power.
“Unlike wines I make in Tuscany with
Cabernet Franc and small amounts
of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon,
Nerello Mascalese doesn’t need lengthy
skin contact during vinification,” says
Franchetti. “On Etna, I basically make
wine from the juice. And instead of aging
in barriques, we age in large neutral casks.”
The results are vibrant wines with
balance and intensity. They also have inim-
itable identities and savory flavor profiles
thanks to the varied terroir of Etna’s 133
defined contrade.
“Soil composition on Etna depends
on the specific lava formations from
individual eruptions,” says Franchetti.
“Etna has multiple active craters, so
every lava flow has a different makeup.
Each contrada is unique because they
were formed by different lava flows,
creating wines with distinct aromas and
personalities.”
The estate’s Etna Rosso and five
contrada-specific bottlings are made with
100% Nerello Mascalese. The dazzling
contrada offerings, like the radiant, firmly
structured, ethereal Contrada R made
from 100-year-old vines, are labeled
Terre Siciliane, since most are situated
at altitudes that aren’t sanctioned by the
Etna DOC regulations.

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Graci
Alberto Graci, born in nearby He sold his grandfather’s “Focusing on wines from Sicily, it offers ideal conditions
Catania, was extremely close property. In 2004, and after select vineyards that have a that allow growers to use less
to his grandfather, who had much research, Graci founded definite, consistent identity harsh chemicals.
a vineyard and grew grain in his winery in the village of every vintage was a huge step “We have lots of different
the center of Sicily. Graci was Passopisciaro in the north, forward for Etna,” he says. His plants, trees and birds that
working at an investment bank “when there were still great 2011 Etna Bianco Arcurìa was generate a healthy ecosystem,”
in Milan when his grandfather vineyards for sale,” he says. the first contrada-specific he says. “We get more rain here
passed away. Shortly after, Graci owns prime vineyards white in the denomination. than other parts of Sicily, but
Graci, a lover of classically like those in the Arcuria and Like many Etna producers, northeasterly winds dry out
crafted Barolo, decided to Barbarbecchi contrade, where Graci’s grapes are certified the grapes and help keep them
return to Sicily to dedicate he makes gorgeous, focused organic. Although Etna gets disease free.”
himself to winemaking. wines with pedigree and class. more rain than the rest of

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Frank Cornelissen
Belgian-born Frank Cornelissen has worked with wine most of his adult life, first as a broker and
then as a winemaker. In 2001, he established his estate on the volcano’s northern side, an area
lauded for its single-contrada wines.
Cornelissen devotes most of his energy to the vineyards. He uses no synthetic chemicals, and
although his farm has been certified organic since 2010, he greatly reduces organic and biodynamic
treatments whenever possible. Recently acquired vineyards will soon also be certified organic.
Many of Cornelissens’s vineyards have extremely old, ungrafted Nerello Mascalese vines, like
its flagship bottling Magma from the Barbabecchi vineyard. From grapes planted around 1910,
it features a wild streak that’s tempered by finesse. The compelling Munjebel VA is made from
90-year-old ungrafted vines planted at the firm’s highest vineyards. It’s all about racy tension.
Cornelissen is a dedicated noninterventionist. He ferments with indigenous yeasts in neutral
epoxy tanks. Wines with more tannic structure are aged in epoxy-coated terracotta vessels buried
up to their necks in ground volcanic rock.
Cornelissen’s passion for single-vineyard wines is influenced by his love of cru Barolos.
“I love the lush roundness of Cannubi, the fierce tannins and focus of Vigna Rionda,” he says.
“We’re lucky to have specific contrade here that yield wines with precision and definite expres-
sions. There’s still lots of work to do, but as a wine aficionado, I love the fact that we have such
varied vineyard sites because so many areas don’t.”
Even though Cornelissen’s wines hail from Etna’s slopes, a number are out of the DOC bound-
aries and are labeled Terre Siciliane. Starting with the 2019 vintage, these will be Sicilia DOC or
Etna Rosso DOC.

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

The Lighter Side of
Piedmont
Native white wine grapes have a long, delicious
history in this Italian region famous for its reds.

C
elebrated for ageworthy world-class BY
reds like Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera,
Piedmont also makes excellent white
KERIN O’KEEFE
wines. Often crafted by some of Italy’s top PHOTOS BY
winemakers, these extraordinary bottlings K AT E S E A R S
are made with native grapes that excel in their growing
area. The best boast surprising aging potential and STYLING BY
should be on every wine lover’s radar. MAEVE SHERIDAN

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 GAVI
Bottles to try Made exclusively from the Cortese grape,
Gavi, also known as Cortese di Gavi, is the

91
Broglia 2010 Vecchia
Annata (Gavi del Comune
region’s most storied white wine. Named
di Gavi); $99. Vias Imports. after the town of Gavi, the growing zone
is in a hilly area in southern Piedmont’s

91
Fontanafredda 2020 Gavi Alessandria province. The zone’s proximity
del Comune di Gavi; $25.
to Liguria and historical links to Genoa’s
Taub Family Selections.
Editors’ Choice. aristocrats influenced its traditional cuisine
based on lean meats, fish and vegetables

90
Pio Cesare 2019 Gavi; that pair better with white wine. Records
$28. Maisons Marques & show specialized vineyards of Cortese were
Domaines USA.
already cultivated in Piedmont by 1856.
Gavi can be made in all or part of 11
townships. Wines made with grapes grown
exclusively in the Gavi municipality can be
labeled as Gavi del Comune di Gavi and are
sometimes informally called Gavi di Gavi.
Typically, Gavi offers delicate aromas
of white spring flower and stone fruit
that join citrus, peach and bitter almond
on the palate. Its elevated acidity lends
itself to sparkling versions and riserva
expressions. The latter—which must be
aged for a minimum of one year, at least six
months of which need to be in bottle—are
surprisingly ageworthy and take on mineral
notes over time.
The appellation’s microclimate stems
from winds from the Ligurian Sea less
than 20 miles away and the vicinity of the
Apennines. As a result, it has cold winters
and warm, breezy summers. Cortese thrives
in the denomination’s hilly slopes and the
calcareous marl and clay soils.
Family-owned Broglia is a strong
believer in Gavi’s aging potential. The firm
was founded in 1972, when entrepreneur
Bruno Broglia purchased La Meirana, one of
the oldest properties in the denomination,
named in land registries in 972.
The estate recently released its 2010
Vecchia Annata, aged on its lees in steel
for nine years. It boasts complexity and
freshness.
“Thanks to a unique microclimate and
calcareous marl soils, Cortese excels in
Gavi,” says Roberto Broglia, who runs the
firm along with other family members. “Our
Vecchia Annata is made only in outstanding
years, from the best grapes of our oldest
vines planted between 1953 and 1955. These
plants have naturally low yields and lend
depth and complexity to the wines.”

WINEMAG.COM | 53
TIMORASSO/ of Fontanafredda. “That same year
we bought the first [7.4 acres].”
DERTHONA Borgogno’s first Derthona was
from the 2015 vintage. Starting
Native grape Timorasso and its with the 2019 vintage, the grapes
wines owe their present-day have been certified organic.
success to one man, Walter Massa. Derthona Timorasso yields full-
After he graduated from Alba’s bodied, structured wines that offer
enological school in 1976, Massa yellow stone fruit, almond and
took over his family’s farm in the honeyed mineral notes. They have
hilltop village of Monleale, in more depth, body and complexity
southeastern Piedmont’s Colli than most Italian whites. These
Tortonesi denomination. aren’t your classic aperitivo wines.
Massa soon realized the zone’s As vertical tastings attest,
altitude, microclimate and soils Derthona is extremely ageworthy.
were best suited for white grapes. Bottles develop more complexity,
As he said in 2015, “market mineral and petrol notes up to
demands in the 1970s and 1980s about the 15-year mark. As vines
for reds meant that local growers get older, the wine’s aging potential
replanted with red varieties for may increase, too.
commercial reasons only.”
He didn’t think Cortese was
suited to the area. A rare local
ERBALUCE
variety was, however: Thick- DI CALUSO
skinned Timorasso, normally
eaten as a table grape or added to Planted almost exclusively in
Cortese. In 1987, Massa vinified it northern Piedmont, this is a
on its own. After he carried out a flexible grape that makes crisp,
massal selection of plants found in linear whites, racy sparklers and
different sites, he planted his first rich dessert wines.
Timorasso vineyard in 1990. The grape is most associated with
The rest is history. the Caluso denomination, where it
Initially, Massa was considered thrives in hills of glacial origin. The
crazy or eccentric by his peers. area has a mild microclimate that
Now, celebrated producers from benefits from lakes and breezes that
other parts of Piedmont have come from the mountains in nearby
invested in Timorasso, like Barolo Valle d’Aosta.
and Barbaresco icons Roagna, Pio Erbaluce di Caluso’s growing
Cesare and Borgogno. zone is situated mainly in the
These producers haven’t just Turin province, where it spans 32
invested in the grape, but also the townships, as well as a town in
large subzone known as Derthona. the province of Vercelli and three
The ancient name for the town of municipalities in Biella.
Tortona, wines labeled as Derthona Made with 100% Erbaluce, it’s a
hail from an area that encompasses fresh, dry white, with sensations of
45 townships. But they only come white spring flower, citrus, almond
from vineyards situated at set and mineral that fully develop after
altitudes that exclude unsuitable three or four years. It comes in
areas like valley floors. three versions.
“Thanks to Walter Massa, in Thanks to marked acidity,
2015, we decided to invest in the Erbaluce di Caluso Spumante, made
Colli Tortonesi denomination to only as metodo classico, are creamy
make Derthona Timorasso because and crisp. Erbaluce di Caluso
we wanted to make a white wine Passito, produced from withered
that would be at the level of our grapes, boasts ageworthy structure
Barolo,” says Oscar Farinetti, and intense flavors including dried
owner of Borgogno and chairman apricot and honeyed almond.

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Bottles to Try

95
Roagna 2018
Montemarzino (Derthona);
$90. Polaner Selections.

91
Borgogno 2018
Derthona; $60.
Ethica Wines.

90
Cantina della Serra 2019
Ramblè (Erbaluce di Cluso);
$25. Canon de Colorado.

WINEMAG.COM | 55
ROERO ARNEIS,
Bottles to Try
LANGHE ARNEIS
92
Angelo Negro & Figlio 2018
Perdaudin (Roero Arneis);
A handful of producers including famed $30. The Piedmont Guy.

91
Barolo makers Bruno Giacosa and Vietti’s Malvirà 2020 Roero Arneis;
Alfredo Currado saved Arneis, which was $15. Indigenous Selections.
almost extinct by the 1960s. Grown in the Best Buy.
midst of Nebbiolo vines, locals used to call

91
Valdinera 2020
the grape “white Nebbiolo.” It was either
Roero Arneis; $17. John
vinified sweet, enjoyed as table grapes or, Given Wines.
if amounts were insignificant, presumably
added to red wine long before regulations
prohibited such practices.
Currado vinified his first Arneis in
1967. Across the river Tanaro in the
Roero denomination, Giovanni Negro,
of the Angelo Negro winery, was also
experimenting with the variety. He
vinified his first dry Arneis in 1971.
There are a few theories that surround
the grape’s name, but most producers
point out that arneis means “bad
tempered” and “unreliable” in the local
dialect. And indeed, Arneis is difficult to
cultivate and ferment.
Grown throughout the Langhe, the
grape’s spiritual home is Roero. Langhe
Arneis must be a minimum of 85%
Arneis. Roero Arneis has to be at least
95%, though most producers use 100%.
“From a geological point of view, Roero
is quite a young land,” says Giuseppe
Negro, head of sales at his family’s
Angelo Negro firm. “In general, soils are a
combination of marl and sandstone with
a prevalence of sandstone that’s rich in
marine fossils. Here, Arneis finds its ideal
growing conditions.”
Angelo Negro’s Sette Anni designation
confirms the wine’s aging potential.
“We’ve discovered that in the seventh
year after harvest, our Arneis reaches
very good maturity, with the potential
to improve,” he says. “We made several
experiments in the past, including aging
in wood, but regarding the former, we
had poor results in long-term aging.
Therefore, our Roero Arneis 7 Anni is
refined in steel, concrete and bottle.”
The just-released 2014 shows depth,
tension and focus.
Retroactive to the 2017 vintage,
Roero Arneis producers can add the
names of delimited crus, called Menzioni
Geografiche Aggiuntive, on wines made
entirely from these specific zones.

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 LANGHE NASCETTA
Bottles to Try

92
Elvio Cogno 2019 Anas-Cëtta Like several other white grapes native to
del Comune di Novello Nascetta Piedmont, Nascetta had all but disappeared
(Langhe); $29. Wilson Daniels Ltd. from Langhe’s vineyards by the early 1990s.

91
Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2019
According to historical documents, Nascetta,
La Regina Serra dei Fiori Nascetta known also as Nas-cetta and Anascetta and
(Langhe); $25. Soilair Selection. cited as far back as 1874, had been used
primarily to make sweet wines. A version

90
Rivetto 2018 Nascetta
made from slightly dried grapes was used to
Borea (Langhe);
$34. Volio Vino. celebrate Mass.
Barolo producer Elvio Cogno, of his
namesake firm, and his son-in-law,
Winemaker Valter Fissore, saved the grape
from vanishing. In 1993, the two vintners
and several others tried a rare 1986 wine
made with Nascetta. As Fissore says today,
“it was love at first sip.”
Cogno and Fissore began to experiment
with the variety a year later. No vineyards
that specialized in Nascetta remained, so
the pair hunted down the sparse numbers
of top-quality grapes to be found in several
vineyards located in their Barolo village of
Novello, where the grape originated. With
the 1994 vintage, they made their first
Nascetta.
Wines made with Nascetta have delicate
aromas of white spring flower, wild herb and
citrus. Linear and medium-bodied, typical
flavors include grapefruit, sage, rosemary,
honey and savory saline notes. With aging,
it takes on more flinty and petrol sensations.
“This is a great white in a land of great
reds,” says Fissore. “Nascetta gets more
mineral-driven and takes on more depth
with age. People tend to drink Nascetta too
young: The wine needs at least three or four
years before it fully expresses itself and can
age well for 15 years or longer.”
To enhance its aging potential and
structure, Fissore forgoes malolactic
fermentation and ages 30% of the wines in
large Slavonian casks.
Made as Langhe Nascetta, producers that
make wines with grapes exclusively from
Novello, the grape’s birthplace, can add
Nascetta del comune di Novello or Nas-cëtta
del comune di Novello to labels.
Langhe Nascetta must contain at least
85% of the grape, while Nascetta del comune
di Novello must be 100% Nascetta.
To further the link between grape and
land, Fissore reveals that after years of
experiments, there are two specific strains
of yeast culled from Novello vineyards that
most local producers use for fermentation.

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 T H E B E S T G I F T A LWAY S CO M E S
FROM THE HE ART

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CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013
Umbria is the heart of Italy. A region as unique as its extraordinary wines. In every glass you will
taste our deep love for this territory and the dedication and passion of our producers who give life
to an excellent product renowned worldwide: Our wine. Our heart.

U M B R I A N F L AV O R
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Vulture
In
Rising
These Southern
Italian wineries
are bringing
new life to the
ancient area.

the northernmost province of Basilicata, which stretches up from the arch of Italy’s boot, lies a
mountainous, wild area. It recalls the brisk Alps of the north more than warm, southern climes. There,
anchored around the extinct Monte Vulture volcano is a patchwork of ancient towns scattered among
the undulating foothills that harbor some of the country’s most exciting, site-expressive wines.
The region is home to two denominations: Aglianico del Vulture Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC),
established in 1971, and the Superiore Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG), which was established in 2010
and is the only DOCG in Basilicata.
Grown here at elevations up to 2,000 feet, Aglianico is a late-ripening variety that benefits from the area’s cool, dry yet sunny,
mountainous terrain and yields energetic, structured reds that can deliver power and finesse in equal measure.
Commercial winemaking in the area dates back nearly a century, but a new generation of winemakers has brought this historic
area to the forefront. Get to know these wineries to best explore Italy’s most dynamic wine region.

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 D’Angelo
Rocco D’Angelo, Winemaker
Erminia D’Angelo, Export Manager

O
ne of the oldest, most established
wineries in Vulture, D’Angelo walks
a fine line between tradition and
innovation. The family-run winery’s
beginnings span back a century,
and for the first few decades, it was predominately in
the bulk wine business—an origin story echoed across
southern Italy.
It wasn’t until the 1950s that the winery shifted its
focus and began to bottle just its own wine under the
Casa Vinicola D’Angelo label. It was one of the first
wineries to produce bottles labeled as Aglianico del
Vulture DOC.
Currently helmed by the family’s fourth generation,
the winery is managed by a sister-brother duo: Erminia,
who runs the commercial side of the business, and
Rocco, the winemaker and vineyard manager. After their
father, Lucio, passed away in 2007, Erminia and Rocco
followed in his footsteps.
“My brother and I started to manage the winery
so very young,” says Erminia. “But we grew up in the
winery playing between barrels and barrique because
our childhood home is on the top floor of the winery.”
Vinification of their red wines follows traditional
methods in the winery’s large concrete tanks that were
constructed in the early 1960s. The tanks are used for
maceration, fermentation and aging. Erminia notes
that “with the concrete tanks you have slow and natural
maturation with good micro-oxygenation of the wine,”
which is key for the proper evolution of Aglianico.
While the winery’s production areas are in the town
of Rionero in Vulture, its nearly 62 acres of vineyards
are in the nearby town of Barile and the more distant
town of Maschito. The Barile vineyards sit at the foot
BY of Monte Vulture, around 1,300 feet in elevation, with
ALEXANDER volcanic tuff dominating the soils. The Maschito
PEARTREE vineyards are down the slope, in a warmer area that
shows more clay-driven soils.
This diversity of site contributes a range of Aglianico
P H OTO S B Y expressions to the winery’s portfolio. The Aglianico del
ILARIA Vulture, Caselle and Canneto labels are sourced from
MAGLIOCCHETTI Barile, yielding zesty, mineral-driven wines that express
LO M B I the volcanic soils. The Tecum label is sourced from
80-year-old vineyards in Maschito, resulting in a rich,
concentrated and earthy expression.

WINEMAG.COM | 61
 A
native of Barile, Fucci grew up
wanting more than what was offered
by a sleepy town in the shadow of
Monte Vulture. Her parents, both
teachers, encouraged her to follow
her passions. By the time she went to university,
Fucci was hard set on leaving Barile behind.
But that all changed in 2000, when her
grandfather, Generoso, was looking to sell the
land that she and her family grew up on, which
included nearly 15 acres of Aglianico planted
on the highest part of the contrada Solagna del
Titolo. Faced with the prospect of losing the land
her grandfather had tended since the 1960s,
Fucci had a change of heart.
That year, she started studying viticulture
and oenology at university in Pisa and began her
eponymous winery.
“I started to make one wine because I have
a single vineyard,” says Fucci of her iconic Titolo
bottling, which was named after the contrada
in which the vineyard resides. “Maybe I produce
only one label, but better.”
She started out making a minuscule 1,200
bottles of Titolo in 2000. Production has since
reached 25,000–30,000
bottles. It still only represents
roughly half the yield allowed by
the Aglianico del Vulture DOC
for a plot of her size.
Azienda Agricola Fucci has also expanded her

Elena Fucci portfolio, albeit only slightly. The

2017 vintage was the first release
of Titolo by Amphora, which
Elena Fucci, spends 10 months in untreated
Owner/Winemaker Italian terra cotta. She more
recently released Titolo Pink,
an Aglianico rosato made from
her vineyard’s youngest vines,
between six and 10 years old.
Perhaps her most endearing addition is the
Sceg bottling. It comes from four plots of neigh-
boring vineyards owned by friends of her grand-
father. The sites were at risk of going untended
or being sold. But wanting to continue the legacy
of these 70-plus-year-old Aglianico vines, Elena
agreed in 2016 to maintain their vineyards and
create a wine in their honor.
Sceg means pomegranate in Arbëreshë, the
local dialect spoken by the inhabitants of the
area, including Elena and her family, who are
descendants of Albanian refugees. The fruit
signifies good luck and prosperity, and Sceg
sheds light on a culture that is slowly fading and
gives new life to nearly forgotten vines.

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Grifalco
Andrea Piccin (left),
Co-owner, Sales Manager
Lorenzo Piccin (right),
Co-owner, Winemaker

B
oundary-pushing wineries are often “One of the best things my father did when he
led by those who think beyond came here is he didn’t buy one piece of big land
their regions. They draw inspiration around the cellar,” says Lorenzo. “Instead, he bought
from winemaking and viticultural many parcels in different villages. He had in mind
practices of other areas. The best that this place is great because each village can have
do this with a sense of reverence for their land and terroir. This is Grifalco. its own microclimate, different terroir, different soil composition.”
Fabrizio and Cecilia Piccin founded the business in 2004. The couple came The family owns nearly 40 acres of organically farmed vineyards spread
to Basilicata with knowledge and experience from over a decade in Tuscany, across the four villages of Venosa, Ginestra, Maschito and Forenza. Vine age
where they owned and managed the Salcheto estate in Montepulciano. In ranges from 10 to 80 years, and each parcel is fermented separately.
the 1990s, Tuscany was going through a boom, with investors snatching up Lorenzo draws inspiration from Piedmont, where he studied viticulture
properties. The Piccins took the opportunity to sell their winery and look to and oenology. The superficial ties between Nebbiolo and Aglianico are
other areas in Italy to start a new business. nothing new—both yield tannic, ageworthy wines that express terroir.
“Aglianico and the Vulture area back then were completely unknown,” says For the two cru wines, Daginestra and Damaschito, he decided to apply
Andrea, son of Fabrizio and Cecilia. “So, if you wanted to make something the technique of extended maceration in 5,500-liter oak vats, which was
moneywise, as an investment, Vulture was the perfect place to do it.” historically used in Barolo. With minimal pumpovers during the 50–60 day
The winery is now led by Andrea, who runs the commercial side of the period, the wines slowly extract. After two more years refining in large oak and
business, and his brother Lorenzo, the winemaker. They bring new focus and one in bottle, the resulting wines are elegant yet ageworthy.
drive, but they’re still appreciative of their parents’ experience and foresight.

WINEMAG.COM | 63
F
ounded by Anselmo Paternoster
in 1925, this historic winery is one
of the defining pillars of Vulture.
It has evolved with the times and
has been a leader in bringing a
more modern winemaking style to the area.
As one of the first formally trained wine-
makers in the area, Anselmo’s son, Pino, was
very much the main driver behind this call to
modernity. In the 1970s, he led the charge along
with other historic wineries, like D’Angelo, to
bottle Aglianico with the newly approved DOC.
Additionally, in the mid-’80s and early ’90s,
formal training led him to
eschew the more commonly
used local chestnut barrels
and employ Slavonian and
French oak, yielding a more
refined expression.
Today, the winery is led
Paternoster
by Fabio Mecca, winemaker Fabio Mecca, Winemaker
and fourth generation of
the Paternoster family.
He continues the legacy,
producing a range of Aglianico
and Falanghina bottlings from 50 acres of
organic vineyards throughout Barile.
“It’s easy for us [to be organic] up to a certain
point,” says Mecca. “We are [2,132 feet] in
elevation, and therefore, we are very well venti-
lated in this zone.”
Yet, he is quick to note that the area is
not without its difficulties. Aglianico is a late-
ripening variety that is often harvested at the
end of October to early November. Weather
conditions that late in the season can be unpre-
dictable, so attention to detail in the vineyard is
key to ensure proper ripeness.
With six wines in the current portfolio, total
annual production at Paternoster is around
100,000 bottles, making it a relatively small
operation. Most of the volume is accounted for
by the entry-level Synthesi bottling, an Aglianico
from a blend of vineyards in Barile. The top
Aglianicos of the estate come from two single
vineyards, Rotondo and Don Anselmo. The
former is the site of the current modern wine
cellar and an area purchased by Pino in the mid
’70s, while the latter is a low-yielding site named
after the winery’s founder.
In 2016, Paternoster became a part of
Tommasi Family Estates and is now managed
by the Veneto-based wine firm. The winemaking
is still directed by Mecca, and the wines now
benefit from a distribution network that spans
approximately 30 markets.

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 It
takes a special person to steward
some of the most historic
vineyards in Italy while also
maintaining a winery building
constructed in the 16th century
that sits above caves dug a century earlier.
Malafarina is exactly the right person for this job.
Her path was circuitous. After earning a
degree in Slavic languages and teaching for a
stint in Kiev, Ukraine, she worked as a chef and
sailor on a superyacht and then as a tour leader
on the Orient Express, catering to guests from
across the world. It was there she met Antonio
Capaldo, chairman of the
Campanian firm Feudi di San
Gregorio, who offered her

Basilisco the opportunity to manage

his newly acquired Vulture
endeavor, Basilisco.
Viviana Malafarina, Malafarina moved to Barile
General Manager/ in 2011 to take on her new post.
Winemaker She quickly fell in love with
the surrounding vineyards,
where she worked alongside
Pierpaolo Sirch, who was the
agronomist for Feudi di San
Gregorio. Over the years, she started to help
more in the cellar under the direction of a few
consultant winemakers, including Lorenzo Landi
and Denis Dubourdieu.
Since 2013, winemaking has been under
her charge. With an annual production as
small as 65,000 bottles, she often works
alone in the cellar.
The roughly 60 acres of organically farmed
vineyards also fall under her purview. As a self-
described “soil freak,” she vinifies each vineyard
separately to best express the unique soil, aspect
and elevation of each. She later decides to either
blend the wines, as in her Teodosio and Basilisco
labels, or bottle them separately, like in her three
Aglianico crus: Cruà, Fontanelle and Storico.
These are microexpressions of time and
place. They’re labors of love for Malafarina, but
one in particular might be nearest to her heart.
The Storico vineyard is a nearly five-acre plot
of 80-plus-year-old ungrafted Aglianico planted
using the capanno training method, a historical
trellising system. It’s a living museum of vines
with yields that are a tenth of what is allowed by
the Aglianico del Vulture DOC regulations.
Learn more about In the wine world, “everybody’s trying to go
Vulture winemakers at back the past. To go back to the authenticity, to
winemag.com/ the old days,” says Malafarina. “We are still there
VultureWinemakers in Basilicata.”

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

© 2021 Imported by Fetzer Vineyards, Hopland, Mendocino CO., CA
50
WINE Let’s celebrate those

RESTAURANTS
who took care of staff
and customers in the
face of unprecedented

WE LOVE 2021
hard times.
BY THE EDITORS OF
WINE ENTHUSIAST
Quince

T
he last year and a half presented the restaurant world with back up, we wanted to celebrate restaurants that not only survived, but
its most urgent challenge and brought to a head many long- did so with integrity. These 50 restaurants were selected because the
simmering issues. A microcosm of American society, the people behind them have found creative ways to bring great wine and
hospitality industry directly employs about 10% of the U.S. food to customers, and they’ve gone above and beyond to support their
workforce, which doesn’t include most of the supply chain, from farm staffs and communities.
JOHN TROXELL/QUINCE

workers to laundry providers. While we don’t know what the future of restaurants looks like, we’re
Since 2011, Wine Enthusiast has made an annual list of our Top 100 raising a glass to these people who are making hospitality hospitable,
Wine Restaurants. The exception was last year, when the task felt impos- leading with compassion and ingenuity. We hope that readers and diners
sible, and it seemed insensitive to try. have a renewed sense of appreciation for the people who make restau-
This year, as people get vaccinated and the world feels like it’s opening rant experiences special.

WINEMAG.COM | 69
 50
WINE The List >>>
RESTAURANTS 610 Magnolia Brenner Pass Four Horsemen
WE LOVE 2021 Louisville Richmond, VA Brooklyn, NY

8ARM Bulrush Frasca Food

Atlanta St. Louis and Wine
Albi Boulder, CO

Addo Butcher & Bee

Seattle Charleston, SC Georgia James
Houston

A.Kitchen + Bar Bywater American

Philadelphia Bistro The Grey
New Orleans Savannah, GA

Albi
Café Rule & Honey Salt

COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: REY LOPEZ/ALBI; M THURK/FRASCA; MICHAEL PIAZZA/MEI MEI; MORGAN BELLINGER/PRESS; ANDREW CEBULKA/BUTCHER & BEE
Washington, D.C.
Wine Bar Las Vegas
Hickory, NC
Frasca
Ariete
Miami Hunky Dory
Canard Brooklyn, NY
Portland, OR
Avec
Chicago Jack Rose
Canlis New Orleans
Seattle
Bell’s
Los Alamos, CA Kindred
Cooks & Soldiers New York City
Atlanta
Bludorn
Houston The Lark
Cúrate Santa Barbara, CA
Asheville, NC
Blue Hill
at Stone Barns Mei Mei
Pocantico Hills, NY Folk Boston
Detroit

Press Restaurant Butcher & Bee

Mei Mei

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Musang Seven Reasons
Seattle Washington, D.C.

Niche Niche SingleThread Farms

New York City Healdsburg, CA

North Snake River Grill

Providence, RI Snake River, WY

SingleThread Farms

Portland Hunt Spoon and Stable

& Alpine Club Minneapolis Vinateria
Portland, ME
COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: MICHAEL ANTHONY/BLUDORN; ELIESA JOHNSON/YOUNG JONI; KIMBERLY MUFFERI/VINATERIA; JOHN TROXELL/SINGLE THREAD FARMS

Spuntino
Porto Denver
Chicago

Table 128
Press Restaurant Des Moines, IA
Napa

Vinateria
Quince New York City
San Francisco

Walla Walla
Rosie Cannonball Steak Co.
Houston Walla Walla, WA

RPM Steak Young Joni

Chicago Minneapolis

Rustic Canyon Zero Restaurant

Los Angeles + Bar
Charleston, SC

Want to learn more about each of these restaurants?

Visit winemag.com/Restaurants2021

Bludorn

Young Joni

WINEMAG.COM | 71
 One of the most
popular and widely
planted grapes
continues to surprise
and delight.

Game-Changing
Cabernet Sauvignons
BY
THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
PHOTOS BY
K AT E S E A R S

STYLING BY
MAEVE SHERIDAN

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

It’s
no secret that Cabernet
Sauvignon is a versatile
grape. Accounting for
about 5% of the globe’s
total vineyard acreage,
it’s got many faces.
Still, the influence of classic
versions from Bordeaux and Napa
looms large. Cabernet Sauvignon
tends to be associated with full-
bodied wines whose tannins and
alcohol levels linger on the high
side. So beloved are these styles,
they can eclipse others.
But as the world in which we
grow and enjoy wine changes, so
too does Cabernet.
Fortunately, the happy-go-
lucky grape isn’t too fussy. While
it’s often been planted historically
in temperate regions with long,
sunny days and cool nights during
the summer to help winemakers
achieve desired styles, it can grow
elsewhere.
Climate change means that
some regions are not as well-
suited to the grape as they used to
be, and others once thought unfit
for it now produce it with aplomb.
At the same time, winemakers
around the globe look to put their
own stylistic stamp on the variety,
even in regions where those classic
Napa and Bordeaux profiles can
be achieved.
On the following pages, we look
at bottles that will change the way
you Cabernet.

WINEMAG.COM | 73
96
Regions on the Rise
Dehlinger 2018
Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Russian River Valley).
This refined and elegant wine is
from an unusual place, but the
producer has remained committed
to it and this bottling shows
exactly why. Classic elements of
clove, dried herb and juicy red fruit
combine around silky-smooth
tannins and well-integrated oak,
each part completely in sync with
the others with a lift of acidity
throughout. This is a gorgeous
wine. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $70

94
Reyneke 2017 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch).
From biodynamic/organic
producer Reyneke comes this
special-release wine that’s
sourced from a single block and
made only in exceptional vintages,
which 2017 certainly was in South
Africa. It’s just about everything
you’d want a Cab to be—concen-
trated in ripe but not overly done
black fruit, with earthy elements
of turned soil, woodsy spice,
pressed purple flowers and singed
tobacco leaf, all framed by boldly
structuring yet somehow simul-
taneously elegant tannins. Long
and evolving on the finish, this is
beautiful from start to end and will
age well through 2036. Vineyard
Brands. Cellar Selection. —L.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $136

93
Alkoomi 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Frankland River).
Alkoomi’s Cab, from Western
Australia’s deep south, is a
seriously structured wine with
chiseled shoulders. It’s a deep well
of flavors: blueberry, currant, dark
chocolate, black olive, eucalyptus
and savory, earthy herbs. In the
mouth, there’s a silkiness to the
fruit that’s backed by fistfuls of
earthy herbs and spices, all held
firmly in place by muscular yet fine,
chalky tannins. This needs protein
and a decanter if drinking now but
could cellar until 2030 at least.
Little Peacock Imports. Editors’
Choice. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $25

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

S 93 
everal areas once thought too cool for Cab are suddenly seeming better
Cayuse 2018 The
suited. Bottlings from Western Australia’s Alkoomi and Dehlinger in Widowmaker En Chamberlain
California’s Russian River Valley are two cool characters not to be missed. Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater in Walla Walla Valley is another (Walla Walla Valley).
area once thought too cool for Cab, but Cayuse Vineyards has shown it Aromas of cassis, herb and ash
can excel. Yolo County, California producer Great Bear is doing the same. While lead to full, fleshy, palate-coating
in South Africa, Stark-Condé is looking up to benefit from cooler conditions at flavors. It has plenty of hang time
on the finish. It’s an unabashedly
higher altitudes.
delicious expression of the variety,
Other winegrowers have implemented agricultural techniques that might appellation and vintage. Editors’
help stabilize and protect land and climate. That’s Reyneke’s mission as one Choice. —S.S.
of the few biodynamic farms in all of South Africa. abv: 14.4% Price: $102

93
Great Bear 2018 Grand
Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Yolo County).
Well concentrated and firmly
structured, this full-bodied wine
coats the palate with rich, ripe
black-fruit flavors and subtle dark
chocolate, cassis and blueberry
accents. It’s big, moderately tannic
and well balanced for a wine of
this size and depth. Best from
2024. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $45

93
Stark-Condé 2017 Oude
Nektar Cabernet Sauvignon
(Jonkershoek Valley).
This wine, sourced from a high-
elevation site, leads with earthy
aromas of fresh mentholated
herbs, raw tobacco leaf and licorice
root partnered with snappy currant
and blackberry liqueur tones. The
palate is plush and robust from first
sip, with big, gripping tannins that
are tight and structured, framing
the skin-driven black fruit flavors
and fueling the length and astrin-
gency on the finish. Additional
earthy tones of cigar-box spice and
chicory root unfold on the back
of the close. Young and youthful
now, give this time to show its best
potential; drink after 2026 and
through 2033. Vineyard Brands.
Cellar Selection. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $85

93
Truchard 2018 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Carneros).
This wine remains one of
the finest values in the Napa Valley
and a cool-climate example of
the variety to boot. With a great
opening nose of blackberry, clove
and dried herb, the lifted, balanced
flavors follow suit, showing plenty
of freshness and length around a
well-integrated and elegant core.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $40

WINEMAG.COM | 75
98 
Changing Styles
Quilceda Creek 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley).
The aromas explode from the
glass, with notes of dark raspberry,
dried herb, piercingly pure cherry,
incense, cranberry and spice. The
flavors undulate across the palate,
creamy in feel with layer upon
layer of fruit and barrel flavors. It is
completely seamless, with outra-
geous balance—the quintessential
hammer in a velvet glove. The finish
carries off into the distance. Best
after 2032, with no end in sight
beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $200

96 
Passing Time 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Horse Heaven Hills).
Cabernet from the Discovery
Vineyard makes up a full half
of this wine, with the rest of the
grapes from Champoux Vineyard
(41%) and Wallula Vineyard (9%).
Blended with 9% Merlot and 5%
Cabernet Franc, this wine is locked
up tightly out of the gate, with
notes of dried herb, coffee, black
cherry leaf, spice, bittersweet
chocolate and scorched earth.
The flavors are bold and rich, with
oodles of sophistication. There’s
impressive layering, midpalate
density and structure. The finish is
eternal. Full of intensity, sophis-
tication and grace, it’s one for the
ages. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $85

95 
Mia Nipote 2017 Lencioni
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Livermore Valley).
Deep in flavor, exceptionally well
balanced and polished, this sleek
wine delivers power with grace. It
shows great concentration in the
black currant and dark chocolate
flavors that are wrapped in silky
tannins for an almost delicate
presence on the palate. Best from
2025. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 15.3% Price: $50

94 
Daou 2018 Cherem
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles).
Making lower alcohol Cabernet
Sauvignon is a fascinating step for
the Daou brothers, who’ve always
pushed ripeness and depth. This
bottling is full of umami character,
showing bloody steak flavors, but
also dark plum, charred blueberry
and purple flowers. The palate
displays toasted nut, grilled lamb
and dried flowers, and it only
grows more fascinating the longer
it’s open. Drink now through 2038.
Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 12.1% Price: $90

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

In 94 
Leeu Passant 2017 Dry Red
California’s Livermore Valley, Mia Nipote and Page Mill Winery are Wine (Western Cape).
taking the grape to new, premium heights. Farther south in Paso A blend of 56% Cabernet
Robles, established producer Daou offers a lighter, lower-alcohol Sauvignon, 26% Cinsault and
expression, as is Bec Hardy, farther south still in South Australia. 18% Cabernet Franc, there’s an
immediate draw to this wine’s
For a bright, juicy option that also offers a nod to the historic
bouquet. A complex mix of fresh,
Cab-based blends from the country, Leeu Passant in South Africa’s Western snappy black cherry, cassis and
Cape blends in old-vine Cinsault and Cabernet Franc. plum is partnered with tones of
Finally, Cabernet has emerged as one of Washington State’s key grapes. pressed violet and carnation, all
To show off how well the grape expresses here, Passing hit by licorice, clove and rooibos
dust. The palate is like crushed
Time and Quilceda are among those doing a lineup of
satin, with ripe fruit flavors that
Cabs from different appellations. are perfectly framed by fine yet
supportive and structuring tannins
that carry it all through to the
enduring finish. It comes across
more red fruited than black on
the palate, with lingering notes of
incense and sweet spice on the
back of the close. So lovely and
layered, it’s hard to pass up now but
this should mature well through
2033. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $105

93 
Page Mill 2017 VS
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Livermore Valley).
Outstanding depth and
concentration lift this
full-bodied wine well
above the crowd. Opulent
baking spices, earth and
tobacco nuances accent ripe
blackberry and cherry flavors, while
a texture laced with fine-grained
tannins carries them to a lingering
finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $48

92 
Bec Hardy 2019 Pertaringa
Lakeside Cabernet
Sauvignon (South
Australia).
This rose-colored South Aussie
Cab delivers in a big way, particu-
larly for a wine that’s less than
$20. Light and fresh, it opens
with bright, lucid aromas of red
berry, baking spice, tree bark and
flowers. The tannins are well-
integrated, soft yet present, gently
tugging on the fruit, which gets a
lift from the crunchy acidity. It’s a
modern, medium-weight Aussie
Cab that should be a weeknight
staple. Mack & Schuhle Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17

WINEMAG.COM | 77
 Around the world,
travel professionals
have had to rethink
how they do business.
What will that mean
going forward?

Anna Maria “We had about 10% of our usual sales in

Kambourakis and 2020,” says Kambourakis.
her husband, Vasilis Without the wineries fully operational,
Kokologiannakis, they didn’t have anywhere to take the few
moved to the Greek island of Crete in guests they did have.
2013, their dream was to start a new “Greece’s economy had never fully recov-
life while also reconnecting with their ered from the 2008 crash, Grexit and all our
heritage. American-born children of Cretan other economic problems, so pivoting to new
BY immigrants, they’d grown tired of the rat revenue streams has not been easy for many,”
MEKITA race and sought refuge and opportunity in she says. “Unemployment has always been
the Mediterranean. high, and bureaucratic red tape doesn’t make
RIVAS In 2017, the couple launched Chania Wine it easy to start something new.”
Tours to share their love for Cretan wine In addition to the loss of income from
with visitors from all over the world. During tasting room visitors, there’s a huge surplus
ILLUSTRATIONS BY its first two years, business boomed. Then of wine on the island.
AMBER DAY came 2020.

WINEMAG.COM | 79
 “Since wine has an expiration date, it’s markets and virtual wine tastings to increase If it has at least 50% of tours booked next
been very stressful to navigate what to do their sales domestically, but the loss is too spring, it will feel like the company has “fully
with the wine,” says Kambourakis. “Three great to make a dent.” recovered,” says Kambourakis.
wineries that I know personally have had to Kambourakis started a wine blog, Unrav- “We expect that tourism will resume
build extra storage facilities on premise for eling Wine, to keep busy and generate a small perhaps in the third quarter here,” she says.
the wine surplus. The vineyards continue income. Kokologiannakis worked throughout “Lucky for us, our tours have always been
to produce. Wineries get one shot a year to the year at a winery to help with harvest, private or small groups of no more than
make their wine, and the vines must go on.” bottling, pruning and trellising. They quali- six people, so we don’t anticipate having to
They’ve tried to support local wineries as fied for some government assistance, which change too much about our business model
best as they could. helped a little. to adapt to regulations. It is our hope that
“I did a few online tastings for former “It did keep our heads above water,” says since Greece handled the pandemic relatively
guests to strengthen those connections,” Kambourakis. “Here in Crete, it feels like well compared to other parts of Europe, that
says Kambourakis. “The virtual tasting everyone is biding their time.” we’ll be rewarded with tourists who will feel
arena quickly got overcrowded. A few safe here.”

O
wineries have had to refocus on the local n April 19, Greece became the first As vaccine rollouts continue and borders
country in the European Union (EU) to reopen, Kambourakis envisions a thriving
permit international visitors, allowing industry, albeit one that’s markedly different.
in residents of the EU, the U.S., UK, “Wine tourism is about to explode,” she
Israel, Serbia and the United Arab Emirates says. “There is a whole new generation eager
who are vaccinated or can show negative to learn about wine at the source and recon-
polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test results nect with farming and winemaking. People
up to 72 hours before they arrive. will seek less-crowded wine destinations
According to the most recent figures from that are practicing sustainability, and there
the Greek government, tourism will be a stronger interest in small wineries.”
accounts for 18% of Greece’s Global tourism suffered its worst year
Gross Domestic Product on record in 2020, as international arrivals
(GDP) and employs dropped by 74%, or one billion fewer visitors
more than 900,000 than 2019, according to the United Nations
people, one-fifth World Tourism Organization. After a year of
of the workforce. being trapped indoors and behind screens,
Kambourakis hopes the desire for tangibility seems to be at an
the industry can all-time high.
bounce back. Like Kambourakis, Tanisha Townsend,
In spring 2019, a Paris-based wine tour guide behind Girl
Chania Wine Tours Meets Glass, predicts a shift toward more
was at 80% capacity intimate settings, as well as an emphasis on
for the season. making wine more interactive.
“I’d like to see more wineries offering
specialized and private small group events,”
says Townsend. “Wine hikes, wine and
food pairings, picnics or music events—less
pretentiousness. Wine is for everyone.”
In France, Townsend observed that some
in the wine industry underestimated how
long the pandemic would last and, in turn,
struggled to pivot accordingly.
“Some don’t know what to do and aren’t
equipped to make changes,” she says. “Or
they didn’t in the beginning and were
thinking, ‘Oh, this will just be a few months
and it won’t last.’ ”

T
ourism regions began to focus on their
own residents, who could visit and
offer some immediate support, says
Townsend. While her normal food

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

and wine excursions throughout Paris and
Champagne have been on pause for more “I’d like to see
than a year, she has adjusted her busi-
ness model through virtual wine tastings,
more wineries
managing influencer campaigns for wine
producers and social media consulting.
offering
Townsend has “no idea” what her post- specialized
pandemic normality will look like, but she
does know that she’s ready to return to and private
sharing wine with oenophiles.
“I look forward to just getting back to the
small group
wineries I love and to discovering new ones,”
she says. “And people are ready to get back
events: wine
to it. The second things open back up, people hikes, wine and
are flying out. I hope the wineries are ready.”
In California’s wine country, Bernadette food pairings,
Byrne, executive director of the Mendocino
Winegrowers Association and a member
picnics or music
of the Visit Mendocino tourism board, is
gearing up for that massive influx of tourists.
events—less
Mendocino is a driveable destination pretentiousness.
for the San Francisco Bay Area and Sacra-
mento region, and Byrne believes some Wine is for
will continue to be wary of air and interna-
tional travel. Staycation-style trips could be
everyone.”
more popular than ever, and businesses are
figuring out how to respond.
—Tanisha
“This pandemic has given our tourism- Townsend
related businesses the impetus to rethink
their business and pivot to strategies that Byrne echoes the sentiments of her
will help them move forward in the ‘new industry colleagues: Personalization will be
normal’ of travel post-COVID,” says Byrne. paramount and packed, impersonal tasting
Wineries that have introduced virtual rooms will be sidelined as people remain
tasting experiences and at-home tasting kits apprehensive to gather in big groups.
will likely hold onto those revenue boosters “The large-group, party-bus concept will
as they lean into strengthened ties with loyal not be part of most wineries’ business plan,”
fans and club members fostered throughout she says. “The days of overcrowded tasting
the pandemic. They’re more than ready to rooms with less personalized service for
engage with them in real life. guests has been replaced with a more curated
experience for small, intimate groups.”

A
nother pandemic-era marker that

T
will likely remain is an emphasis on he picture of post-pandemic wine
outdoor space. Countless wineries tourism being painted is decidedly
invested to better accommodate visi- less grandiose than one might imagine.
tors outside. Those accommodations will Analysts and trend forecasters have
continue to be welcome, as tourists seek to suggested a new Roaring Twenties will
sip beneath a perfectly shaded spot with a begin, marked by excess and extravagance.
stunning scenic view. And while that may be true in some areas
“The wine industry will continue to be of society, it seems that many in the wine
a huge tourism driver as people seek to be world won’t be so concerned with opulence.
in nature and outdoors,” says Byrne. “The Instead, the focus will be on education
pandemic has given the Mendocino County and intention, regardless of destination.
wine industry the ability to step up its visi- People will likely be eager to explore the
tation game. We have moved to a more sit- unfamiliar, and the most successful wine
down and reservation style of tasting and businesses will be there to guide them as
welcoming guests. I hope this sticks.” they embark on new adventures.

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84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021
WINEMAG.COM | 85
The Joys of Problem Solving
Big Table Farm
Clare Carver and Brian Marcy admit that they have “made a lot of mistakes” in the 15
years that they’ve owned and developed Big Table Farm. But that confession comes with a
heaping side order of joy.
“The big, sloppy, naïve experimentation is behind us,” says Carver with a grin. “We’ve
earned our stripes. We have a deep understanding that we’re working from. So, no more
rookie mistakes that are hard on the land, on the animals and on the humans.”
It’s a lot of work to take care of cattle, chickens, goats, draft horses, pigs, sheep, beehives
and guard dogs. There were also the painstaking multiyear tasks of barn and winery
building, the annual planting of vegetable gardens, tending compost and clearing hillside
land to plant an estate vineyard. One might suppose these two are tapped out.
Not even close.
Carver is a professional artist with a thriving studio. She designs the winery’s hand-
drawn and letterpress-printed labels. Marcy is in the midst of fencing, planning and
planting the first estate vineyard. As with everything they undertake, the seemingly
straightforward task of clearing trees and underbrush has been an opportunity to learn,
innovate and find a better eco-friendly solution.
“We have never done a brush burn in 15 years because we are carbon sensitive,” says Tony Soter says his late wife, Michelle, inspired
Carver, referring to the idea that the smoke from a burn would cause further pollution. So and helped create a farm and winery dedicated
what to do with piles of brush from the 13-acre hillside? to environmentalism, organics, biodynamics,
They contacted a company called Blackwood Solutions that uses a Carbonator to convert nutrition and holistic living. On an early spring
the brush into biochar through a low-oxygen, high-temperature burn that puts no carbon stroll around the 240-acre property, he dove
into the air. What’s left is basically charcoal, which goes into the compost pile. eagerly into the details.
“Everything we’ve done in the past is informing what we’re about to do next,” says Wine, he says, takes an agricultural
Marcy. “We’re learning about soil, how active it is, a whole unseen aspect of life that to me commodity, grapes, and adds value. “So much
is just fascinating. And the contribution that animals make to the health of the world, the of agriculture is commodity driven,” says Soter.
microbiology they move around in their guts. Ruminants are basically fermentation vessels “And it doesn’t leave much profit if you want to
on legs. They convert cellulose into protein and fat in a way that nothing else can.” be a successful small farmer.”
PHOTO CREDIT

His idea is to inspire other small farmers

Wine to try: Big Table Farm 2019 The Wild Bee Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); $30. to add value to their products so they can sell

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 What we
hope [for] is the
reinvention of
small rural
agriculture as a way
to make a living
and to put people
back in the land.

directly to end users. “What we hope [for] is which Soter traces back to his years as a what works and doesn’t work to achieve our
the reinvention of small rural agriculture as consultant in Napa. aims? So the more in concert we are, the less
a way to make a living and to put people back “It was in part out of self-interest,” he in conflict we are.”
in the land.” jokes. “I eat more grapes than 10 people put A dining program, Provisions, encapsu-
Ranch Manager Nadine Basile is in charge together in any given season. And I would lates these goals. It offers visitors a farm-
of “anything that’s living on the property,” prefer to eat grapes that don’t have anything sourced meal of light dishes paired with
says Soter. Along with wine grapes, that really toxic on them. So my liver thanks me wines. “It’s not a profit center, it’s a demon-
includes vegetables, orchards, grains, bees, for that commitment.” stration center,” says Soter. “And it’s so
cows, pigs, chickens, turkeys, sheep (which These practices add value and improve popular that it’s paying for the chef and the
tend the vineyard floor) and goats (which wine quality. “The brilliance of biodynamics sous chef and dishwasher. Perfect.”
help manage forested areas). was foretelling a better understanding of the
PHOTO CREDIT

In the vineyard, the emphasis is on a biology of growing plants and ecosystems,” Wine to try: Soter 2018 Estates Pinot Noir
scientific approach to biodynamic practices, says Soter. “How can we learn from nature (Willamette Valley); $50.

WINEMAG.COM | 87
Oregon’s Olioteca Durant
Red Ridge Farms
Many wineries vie for grapes from Durant Vineyard. You’ll find its name featured on
dozens of bottles from leading Willamette Valley producers. In addition, the estate winery
produces around 5,000 cases a year, principally Pinot Noir, along with Pinot Gris, Char-
donnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a lovely rosé.
A number of talented winemakers have made wine with these estate vines, such as
Marcus Goodfellow, Joe Dobbes, Isabelle Dutarte and most recently, Spencer Spetnagel,
who came from King Estate in 2018.
But despite the success of the vineyard and its wines, Paul Durant, the owner and
general manager, is most excited about his extra-virgin olive oils.
Grazing-Based
His parents purchased the property in the early 1970s. Immediately, they planted vines
and grew walnuts, cherries and hazelnuts.
Viticulture
“They had no money, so they bought cheap hillside dirt that doesn’t produce well for
row crops,” says Durant. “So now 40 years later, it’s the most sought-after ground in the
Antiquum Farm
county. They got a lottery ticket.”
The expansive 135-acre property includes a well-stocked gift shop, tasting room, short- Ask Owner Stephen Hagen to explain what he
term lodging and plant nursery. That’s in addition to 17 acres of olive trees planted starting means by grazing-based viticulture, and prepare
in 2004. A desire to try something new (“it’s in the family DNA,” says Durant) initiated the for a doctoral thesis. Topics range from animal
project, but it’s his implacable enthusiasm that sustains it. husbandry and the irrelevance of clones to the
“Within the olive-tree world, there’s all different varieties, but the arc of time takes a growth of upside-down grape clusters with
long while to really figure out how to grow them,” he says. The gift shop offers a number of mutant berries.
varietal oils and many other homegrown and local products. The idea behind grazing-based viticulture,
As visitors begin to return to the farm, a new Italian olive mill is planned to replace says Hagen, is to coax site-specific terroir from
the well-worn original. Durant plans to quadruple production, currently up to 8,000 a particular place.
gallons a year. He and his wife, Niki, began to plant shortly
During the pandemic, Durant says olive oil sustained the business. after they purchased the property in 1999. From
“This is what I’ve always wanted to do,” he says. “We don’t aspire to be big wine producers. the start, they farmed organically. Some years
Four to six thousand cases of wine a year. That’s it. I like the customer connection.” later, he says, “a light bulb popped off in my
head as I was spreading organic amendments.
Wine to try: Durant 2019 Southview Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills); $25. I was asking people how they get expression

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 This is not
a system, this is a
lifestyle. This never
stops. There’s no
Sunday, no vacation.
The timing is where
the art is. No one else
in the world is doing
what we do.

of place. And the answer was always, ‘by vineyard is divided up into much smaller The operation requires substantial
farming organically.’ But we’re all using the segments amenable to what Hagen calls numbers of these animals, which must be
same stuff. I realized we’re talking about this “rotational intensive grazing.” fed, sheltered and protected from predators.
thing, but we’re not really doing it.” In simple terms, animals are rotated Seven large dogs roam the property. They’re
The quest for unique site-specific terroir through in a specific order based upon the glue that holds the structure together.
became increasingly complicated. grazing habits and the vines’ growing cycle. “This is not a system,” he says. “This
“What is compost?” he asks. “It’s forage First pigs, then sheep, followed by geese is a lifestyle. This never stops. There’s no
passed through the animals. So why not skip (“pound for pound, nothing grazes like Sunday, no vacation. The timing is where the
the cows and start farming microbes? How geese”). Finally, the chickens enter. art is. Leaving enough material to photosyn-
do we get wines that really have a person- “The grazers have exposed the insects thesize and recover, but not letting it go to
ality, that really feel alive? You fill the vine- and also pooped,” says Hagen. “The chickens seed. No one else in the world is doing what
yard up with life.” go through the manure, scratching it, we do.”
In the course of experiments, Antiquum exposing the insect larvae, eating the eggs
(pronounced ann-tick-you-um) has grown and anything that hatches. I call them the Wine to try: Antiquum Farm 2018 Juel
to 140 acres, 21 of which are under vine. The ‘weeding and sanitation crew.’ ” Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley); $40.

WINEMAG.COM | 89
Wines, Weddings
and Silo Suites
Abbey Road Farm
Abbey Road Winemaker James Rahn sits at Demand took off quickly, and vineyard “Another school of thought is we don’t
a picnic table and sips rosé on a warm late- planting began that October. know what else is going to thrive here,” he
winter afternoon. Just four years ago, the Already, 16 varieties have been planted says. “Which is not to snub Pinot Noir. That
site was a grass-seed farm with stables and that include under-the-Willamette-radar is the legacy, and I’m thankful for that. But
a horse arena. grapes like Aligoté, Godello, Mencia, we want to have fun. Is this going to work
The property has been almost magically Mondeuse, Poulsard, Trousseau and Trous- here? We’re going to give it a go. And with
transformed into a manicured 82-acre seau Gris. These are part of a plan to expand grafting, you don’t lose a single vintage.”
farm. It hosts special events and weddings, beyond wines made from the region’s stan- Ultimately, plans for Abbey Road Farm
offers overnight lodging in a renovated grain dard program of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay include an on-site incubator winery and
silo and features walking tours and luxu- and Pinot Noir. enough gardens to supply Quaintrelle and
rious breakfasts prepared by Will Preisch, Rahn’s years as a sommelier and previous local markets with fresh produce. But the
the innkeeper and chef. efforts to market his own wines convinced main goal is to be a place where visitors
Owners Sandi and Daniel Wilkens are him it was much easier to offer different may enjoy the best of Oregon’s food, wine
partners in Quaintrelle, a Portland farm- varieties than sell yet another Pinot Noir to and hospitality.
to-table restaurant. Their original goal of a a restaurant that might already have dozens
special events venue is changing, says Rahn. on the list. From a business standpoint, he Wine to try: Abbey Road Farm 2018
After he joined Abbey Road Farm in says, less well-known varieties can succeed Chardonnay (Willamette Valley); $37.
2018, the first wines Rahn made were rosés because people, especially millennials, are
for wedding parties and tasting room sales. hungry to try something different.

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 90
POINTS
2018 PINOT GRIS

STRIKING A BALANCE
has been our goal from day one –bringing the complexity and pure flavors of
Oregon’s classic growing regions to your palate. With sustainably farmed vineyards and
the wines’ approachable purity, we believe that happy wines make happy people.
© 2020 Acrobat | www.acrobatwine.com
 The
Changing
Style of

Israeli
Wine
Producers in this ancient
region look to the past and
future to create thoroughly
modern wines.
BY MIKE DeSIMONE

W
hile the history of winemaking in Israel
stretches back millennia, its modern
industry has really hit its stride in just the
past several years.
White wines have improved vastly in
quality. Rhône varieties and hybrid grapes are edging out Cabernet
blends. Indigenous grapes are starting to find commercial success.
And winemakers who traveled abroad have returned more open
to experimentation.
A new generation has taken the reigns from the forward-
thinking winemakers who preceded them, and as a result, a wave
of innovation has taken root in this diverse and vibrant Mediterra-
nean country. This approach will likely guide the progress of Isra-
el’s wine industry through the 21st century. Here are the trends
to watch.

White Wine
Seventy percent of the wine grapes grown in Israel are red, with Cabernet Sauvignon leading the way. However, the thirst for Israeli white wine
both at home and abroad is growing.
“It’s like somebody flipped a switch and said, ‘Wow, we live in a hot country, we really should be drinking cold white wine,’ ” says Joshua Green-
stein, an executive vice president of the Israel Wine Producers Association trade group.
Freshness and acidity are key, so the best examples are from high-altitude vineyards. Besides Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, there are very
good examples of Gewürztraminer made by producers that include Psagot Winery, Jezreel Valley Winery, Tabor Winery and Golan Heights Winery.
Rhône-style whites like Recanati’s Special Reserve white blend and Netofa’s Roussanne have also made inroads.

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 Vineyards in the Negev desert

Rhône-Style Reds
“Mediterranean varieties are the most suitable for our climate and terroir,” says Gil Shatsberg, executive vice president of Recanati. “Early ripening
grapes with the ability to maintain natural acidity in a hot climate offer a great advantage to making quality wines which match perfectly to our
local cuisine.”
This includes both blends and varietal bottlings of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. High-quality examples of Syrah/Shiraz come from
producers such as Ramot Naftaly Winery, Pelter Winery, Binyamina Winery, Shiloh Winery and Tulip Winery, while blends are a mainstay at
ALAMY

Jezreel Valley Winery, Hayotzer and Dalton Winery.

WINEMAG.COM | 93
 Clockwise from above: the hills of Gush
Etzion; Cabernet grapes at harvest from

Boutique Wineries Gush Etzion Winery; a sign for Golan

Heights Winery in one of its vineyards
The four largest producers—Barkan Wine Cellars, Carmel Winery,
Teperberg Winery and Golan Heights Winery—make up almost half of
Israel’s output of 40 to 45 million bottles per year. However, since the
late 1970s, there has been incremental growth in proprietor-run craft
wineries, which produce up to 30,000 bottles per year.
Dr. Yair Margalit, who founded Margalit Winery in 1989, is consid-
ered the father of Israel’s small-winery movement. These producers Native Grapes
focus on quality, terroir and expression. There’s also much experimenta- Israeli winemakers cultivate ancient indigenous varieties like Marawi,
tion in winemaking techniques, proprietary blends and grape varieties. Bittuni, Jandali, Baladi and Dabouki, long thought extinct. Recent
Small producers like Kishor Winery, Agur Winery, Shvo Vineyards, Alex- discoveries by researchers like Elyashiv Drori of Ariel University have
ander Winery, Ephod Winery, Nadiv Winery, Odem Mountain Winery led to their rediscovery and propagation.
and Gush Etzion Winery are racing to the top of Israel’s wine scene. Cremisan Winery, on the border of Israel and the West Bank, is one
of the foremost producers of wines from native grapes. Sales of these
Vines in the Desert wines benefit the Salesian Monks. Its winemaking team is made up of
One of the driest wine regions in the world, Israel’s Negev (Hebrew Italian monks under the watchful eye of consultant Riccardo Cotarella.
for “dry”) first produced grapes about 2,500 years ago, grown by the Ido Lewinsohn, MW, head winemaker at Barkan Segal, also works
Nabateans, a nomadic tribe who built stone dams to divert infrequent with Marawi, while Teperberg Winery uses the native variety Dabouki
rains to their vineyards. in its Inspire White.
Home to almost 40 wineries, this arid landscape wedged between
Egypt and Jordan offers altitudes as high as 2,950 feet, which provide Experimentation
cold nights that preserve acidity. After their compulsory military service, many Israelis travel abroad for
One of the region’s leaders is Yatir Winery, founded in 2000 as a a year before they come home and settle into a career. Those interested
partnership between local growers and Carmel Winery. Its red wines in winemaking find much to discover in Europe, the United States and
are surprisingly bright, considering the vineyards’ topography and Australia, and return home eager to experiment with new grapes or
climate. fermentation techniques.
Another standout is Midbar, the Hebrew word for “desert.” Wine- Yehuda Nahar, CEO and winemaker at Jezreel Valley Winery,
maker Shachar Landman coaxes extraordinary levels of freshness out produces wine made from Argaman, a cross of Souzão and Carignan.
of parched soils for his red and white blends. Argaman, which means “crimson” in Hebrew, was created by Israeli

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 From above: Carignan in a Recanati
vineyard; Golan Heights vineyards

agronomists to produce a deeply colored wine, often added to inexpen-

sive blends. However, Nahar and a few likeminded compatriots have
made high-quality blends and varietal bottlings with the grape.
At Segal, Lewinsohn has introduced methods like whole-cluster
and native-yeast fermentation. While these techniques represent the
traditional way of making wine, they had gone by the wayside as wine-
making became an industrialized process.

Wines with a Mission

More and more consumers want to support brands that give back to Sustainability
the community, a trend not lost on the Israeli wine sector. Two exem- At the forefront is Golan Heights Winery. In 2017, its vineyards became
plary wineries are Kishor and Tulip, both of which support those with the first in Israel to become certified for sustainable winegrowing. The
special needs. winery’s barrel cellars, bottled wine warehouse and bottling hall are
UPPER RIGHT: RECANATI; ALL OTHERS: ALAMY

Kishor is located in the Kibbutz Kishorit, a community for special- covered in solar panels. The winery claims that two-thirds of its energy
needs adults. Members of the kibbutz are employed year-round, and usage is derived from the sun.
a dedicated team is brought in for the harvest season. Kishor’s tasting Tabor Winery, under the direction of its general manager and
room features cheese and baked goods made by community members. head agronomist, Michal Akerman, has worked to reintroduce wild-
Tulip winery was founded in Kfar Tikva, the “Village of Hope,” home life into its vineyard in order to restore the ecosystem with the use of
to adults with developmental and emotional disabilities. The resi- sustainable growing methods. The winery’s new logo features a barn
dents participate and work in the winery, especially in the harvest and owl, which symbolizes the return of a variety of wild animals and their
labeling of the bottles. Both wineries produce a variety of white and importance to the quality of the soil.
red wines.

WINEMAG.COM | 95
Sake in the USA
From San Francisco to Nashville, America’s newest
craft-brew obsession is 100% American saké.

S
aké is known as distinctly
Japanese, but American-
made saké has existed since
the 19th century.
Until the early 2000s,
when Japanese exports
became readily available,
saké that was sold in sushi
bars and retail stores nationwide
was predominantly made in the
U.S. While historically, American
saké was crafted by a handful of
large companies, today there’s
a new generation of domestic
brewers in the spotlight.
From just five breweries a
decade ago, there are now more
than 20 nationwide. Small in
production, often hyperlocal and
distinctly American, these craft
breweries bring unique, well-made
saké to Everytown, USA.

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 A Local Affair
In the grand scheme of American alcoholic bever-
ages, craft saké is a tiny drop in the bucket. Atsuo
Sakurai, owner of Arizona Sake, brews just 1,000
gallons per year in Holbrook, Arizona, a desert town
of 5,000 residents. Sakurai’s operation “isn’t really
a microbrewery,” he says. “It’s more like a pico, a
nanobrewery even.”
Even at the larger end of the spectrum,
Brooklyn Kura, New York City’s first saké brewery,
makes just 2,500 cases each year. Opened
commercially in 2018, it’s one of the few indepen-
dent breweries to have multistate distribution.
While small in production, these local micro-
breweries are building connections in communi-
ties that are often untapped by larger Japanese or
American producers.
In the last three years, two commercial saké
breweries opened in Brooklyn, and a third is now in
the works. According to Brian Polen, cofounder and
president of Brooklyn Kura, “we live in places where
people care about the story of the things they’re
consuming, about craftsmanship and quality.”
It’s a paradigm that closely parallels the jizaké,
or local saké, movement that recently revitalized
Japan’s industry, much like American craft beer.
Andrew Centofante is owner and head
brewer at North American Saké Brewery, Virginia’s
SAKE SET COURTESY OF VANILLA BEAN; MODTRAYS BY LINE+ARC.

only saké brewery. Established in 2018 in Charlot-

tesville, Centofante offers fresh saké and brewery
tours by a pub that serves ramen and other saké-
friendly fare.
In Japan, he says, “they have a ton of saké
breweries, and everyone’s got this hometown pride
in their local brewery. And we see that in the U.S.
BY with beer. In Charlottesville, we have eight beer
breweries. They’re just ‘our’ places, and I think the
ANNA LEE C. same kind of thing could translate to local saké
IIJIMA breweries in the U.S.”
Often featuring consumer friendly tasting
P H OTO S B Y rooms and pubs, these microbreweries introduce
saké to many communities that may be unfamiliar
TO M with the beverage.
ARENA “There’s a certain mystery about saké in the
minds of most American consumers, that it’s this
esoteric Japanese drink,” says Weston Konishi,
president of the trade group Sake Brewers Asso-
ciation of North America. “We’ve all heard that it’s
‘like a rice wine,’ or [styles like] junmai or daiginjo,
but we’re not terribly clear about what they mean.
All these things make saké a little bit challenging
to market.”
Local breweries allow consumers to challenge
misconceptions.
“Too many people think saké is a monolithic
thing, a single taste,” says Centofante. “Our tasting
room and brewery give people the chance to see
the process, meet myself or our staff and to dive
deep. People love that its locally made and they’re
willing to give it a try.”

WINEMAG.COM | 97
Small but Mighty
Small production models give saké brewers flex-
ibility to experiment and explore styles that are
unavailable elsewhere.
In 2008, Blake Richardson established Moto-I, a
saké brewery and izakaya in Minneapolis. Considered
the first saké brew pub in the U.S., Moto-I special-
izes in zingy, intensely fruity and unpasteurized saké
meant to be served on draft at the brewery.
At Nashville’s Proper Saké Co., which opened in
2016, founder and brewmaster Byron Stithem makes
“premodern, more esoteric styles like yamahai or
kimoto,” that he long struggled to source.
“It’s just a little bit more raw and more reliant on
natural organisms that exist in the brewery, the rice
or yeast, so you end up with a more complex flavor,”
he says.
Like beer, craft saké brewing in America often
began with fermentation-obsessed hobbyists who
churned out home brews in garages, basements and
backyards. As with most of his American colleagues,
Brandon Doughan, cofounder and head brewer of
Brooklyn Kura, is largely self-taught.
“Before I was 21, I was brewing beer and making
wine,” he says. His saké-brewing skills were cobbled
together via limited English-language resources,
YouTube videos and internships with Japanese
breweries. He’s grateful for the generosity of brewers
who offered guidance, especially Richardson.
More than a decade since he established Moto-I,
Richardson is now a veteran amongst a genera-
tion of startups. “It’s quite a change from when we
started to what it is now,” says Richardson, who
began a series of pilgrimages to Japan in 2006 to
study technical aspects of saké brewing.
“In the beginning, there was just no knowledge,”
he says. “We had to dig for everything. But now
there’s a knowledge base out there.”
Saké brewers in Japan have also been eager to
educate and encourage their American counterparts.
“There have been a lot of breweries in Japan
that have hosted me and allowed me to apprentice
or visit,” says Stithem. “A lot of them felt it would be Recommended Bottles
important to make sure that we make good saké, so • Arizona Sake The
we don’t ruin the beverage for everyone in America.” Premium One
Sakurai, one of a few expatriate Japanese saké Junmai Ginjo
brewers in the U.S., had a decadelong career at • Brooklyn Kura
breweries in Japan, where he earned the highest BYx Yamahai
level of saké-brewing qualifications from the Japa- • Den Blanc
nese government. • Kato Sake Works
For years, Sakurai dreamed about building a Nama
saké brewery abroad. In 2014, he and his American • Moto-I Omachi
wife, Heather, settled in Holbrook to be near family. Tokubetsu
They started Arizona Sake out of their garage in 2017. • North American Sake
“I can make the good saké anywhere in the Brewery Serenity
world,” says Sakurai. “I want to provide excellent Now! Junmai Daiginjo
saké…that Arizona people and Americans feel proud • Proper Saké Co. The
to introduce [to others] as their local saké.” Diplomat Junmai
Such pride is shared by many of Sakurai’s • Sequoia Sake Coastal
colleagues. Ginjo Junmai Ginjo

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Finding the Right Rice
While it’s too early to declare the existence of regionality in American
saké, says Centofante, the use of rice grown in California and Arkansas
along with local water provides “a sense of American terroir.”
Historically, American saké was made with Calrose, a popular
table rice with Japanese roots that was developed in California. In
recent decades, specialty growers have introduced an array of new
options that include American-grown versions of saké rice like Yama-
danishiki or Omachi.
Richardson, who once struggled to obtain anything other than
Calrose, now sources a variety of specialty rice from Isbell Farms, a
fifth-generation family operation in Arkansas.
“Saké brewing traditionally centers on technique and the skill
of the people who make it, rather than rice,” says Yoshihiro Sako,
cofounder and head brewer of Den Sake Brewery in Oakland,
California. “But rice creates character in saké, and regional
differences in rice and how they are farmed create differ-
ences in saké.”
Den sources Cal-Hikari rice, a table rice with Japanese
heritage, from Rue & Forsman Ranch, a family farm in the
Sacramento Valley. Its proximity to Oakland and focus on envi-
ronmentally sustainable farming were key to Sako.
“As opposed to rice that is ‘comingled,’ or sourced from
multiple locations, the Cal-Hikari is a rare single-origin rice,” says Lani
Sako, Yoshihiro’s wife and partner. “You know exactly what rice field
this rice came from.”
Local water can also lend distinctiveness to these craft brews. Den
relies on unfiltered Oakland tap water, which is soft. Yoshihiro says this
is similar to the water in major saké-producing regions like Niigata or
Hiroshima. The effect is that “it ferments slowly and gives the saké a
rounder quality,” says Yoshihiro.
Centofante uses water sourced from the Blue Ridge Mountains.
“I think it’s what gives our saké its bold character,” says Centofante.
For many brewers, there’s a sense of duty to produce saké that
can hold its own against those from Japan.
“I compare [my own saké] against it a lot,” says Centofante.
“Inherently, [Japanese saké] is different on a lot of levels. They’re just
very nuanced and very precise.” As an American brewer, he says, “the
dream is to make saké that anyone could bring to Japan and have it
appreciated and celebrated.”
At the same time, American brewers are proud to introduce their
own ingenuity. “That’s the American way,” says Richardson. “It’s a
desire that everyone who’s creative and a craftsman has in their DNA.”
Yoshihiro Sako says while Japanese saké inspires him, he wants to
create his own excellence.
“I don’t want to just imitate other good saké,” he says. “I want
to make saké to pair well with food here. American food tends to be
fattier, richer and higher in protein.” He says he prefers “bold, expres-
sive” brews with “umami to round out flavors, but also higher acidity
to cut through richer foods.”
For the most part, says Richardson, Japanese brewers are excited
to see the development of American saké. “They tend to see it as a
local gateway that will make Americans more familiar.”
“A rising tide raises all ships,” says Centofante. “If someone comes
to my brewery and falls in love with saké, hopefully they’re going to go
to another brewery and try saké from Japan as well.”
Today, new microbreweries are in motion in Salt Lake City,
Medfield, Massachusetts, and more. Hopefully in a few years, “there’s
going to be a brewery in every major American city, in Detroit, Philadel-
phia, Baltimore and Washington, D.C.,” says Konishi.

WINEMAG.COM | 99
 90 91 90
17
CA

20
BE

R
18

IN H
N

N 20
C

1
NO
P

AR
8

ET OT 0
S AU V I G NOIR 2 D O N N AY

AWARDED OVER 160

90+ POINT SCORES
ACROSS ALL MAJOR WINE PUBLICATIONS OVER THE LAST 20 YEARS.*

*Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator, Wine & Spirits, Robert Parker, James Suckling. © 2021 Imported by Fetzer Vineyards, Hopland, Mendocino CO., CA
 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

THIS MONTH
102 RHÔNE VALLEY 167 OREGON

140 PROVENCE 170 WASHINGTON

144 SOUTHWEST FRANCE 172 MICHIGAN

149 PORTUGAL 172 NEW JERSEY

150 SPAIN 173 CANADA

151 PIEDMONT 174 SPIRITS

154 SWITZERLAND 175 BEER

154 GERMANY

156 HUNGARY

156 ISRAEL

158 SOUTH AFRICA

160 AUSTRALIA

161 ARGENTINA
162 CALIFORNIA

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES

SUMMERTIME SIPPERS
California is setting the bar for domestic rosé. Check out the
latest releases from the Golden State.

ABRUZZO’S HIDDEN GEMS

Discover under-the-rader white wines like Trebbiano and
Pecorino from central Italy.
IAN SHAW / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PROVENCE BEYOND ROSÉ

This southern French region does more thank pink wine.
See what tasty red and white wines are worth seeking out.

Cherry-hued Tavel in the glass

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS

WINEMAG.COM | 101
BUYINGGUIDE

RHÔNE VALLEY
black-cherry and raspberry flavors edged by shards
of cut stone and delicate ruffles of wild mint and
lavender. Delicious now the wine is likely to drink
well through the end of 2022. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
Think Tavel for year-round rosé enjoyment
91 Domaine Corne-Loup 2020 Tavel. Almost gar-

L
net-hued in the glass, this plum-scented, Gre-
ong before the days of #yeswayrosé, long like Clairette or Picpoul for freshness and vitality.
nache-dominant blend offers all the blackberry and
before Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 brand Compared to the flush salmon pinks of most blueberry richness of a red wine with the freshness
or those rosé-fueled gatherings that flood rosé, Tavel is often shockingly saturated in and thirst-quenching quaffability of a rosé. Accented
Instagram in shades of blush, the real OG color—more fuschia or fiery sunset. Most rosé by spikes of burnt caramel, granite and smoke, it’s
of pink wine was Tavel. gets its pale hues from a quick soak or direct an elegant, satisfying and dry wine that drinks well
anytime of the year. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I.
There’s nothing new or trendy about rosé in pressing of juice from grape skins. By contrast,
abv: 14% Price: $24
Tavel, the famed region in the Southern Rhône Tavel is typified by a long maceration on grape
devoted exclusively to rosé pro- skins, often as long as 48 hours.
duction. For centuries, it was Deeper in extraction, wine 91 Domaine Maby 2020 Prima Donna (Tavel).
Just a shade shy of ruby in the glass, this
known as the “king of rosés,” For anyone who’s from this region is richly con- richly concentrated rosé highlights piercing black-
berry and blueberry flavors edged by a grip of tea
adored by French kings and ever desired a centrated in its blackberry and
tannins and rose-petal perfume. This substantial
touted by writers like Balzac cherry flavors and structured by
bit more oomph wine should continue to drink well through 2023.
and Hemingway. fine tannins. Its black-fruit fla- DB Wine Selection. —A.I.
Today, amid the sea of pale-
from rosé, these vors are nuanced by complexi- abv: 14% Price: $25
pink poolside quaffers that dom- sommelier ties of earth, garrigue and spice.
inate the rosé market, Tavel has
struggled to find its place. But
darlings are worth Robust enough to improve
with age, wines from Tavel often
91 Les Vignerons de Tavel 2020 Trésor des Sables
(Tavel). Crisp strawberry and cherry-blos-
seeking out. som notes perfume this full-bodied but freshly bal-
for anyone who’s ever desired veer closer in style to a delicate anced Grenache blend. Deep pink in color, the juicy
a bit more oomph from rosé or red wine than rosé. It drinks wine is packed with sun-kissed red-cherry and
vacillated between a white and red to pair with equally well in the fall or winter months as it berry flavors along with a zesty spine of crushed
stone and salty minerals. Delicious young, the wine
dinner, these sommelier darlings are worth does in spring or summer. Far beyond pairing
is solid enough to drink well through 2023. Fruit of
seeking out. with delicate salads or picnic fare, Tavel’s rich- the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
Like most French rosé, Tavel is made pre- ness, tannins and peppery backbone harmonize abv: 14% Price: $NA
dominantly from red grapes—typically a blend beautifully with the heartiest of barbecues or
of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvédre or Cinsault—
augmented by a small proportion of white grapes
even curries laden with perfume and spice.
—Anna Lee C. Iijima
90 Château de Manissy 2020 Cuvée des Lys
(Tavel). A touch of burnt caramel lends
spice to notes of red plums and cherry blossoms in
this invigorating dry rosé sourced from organically
farmed Grenache (60%), Syrah (20%) and Clairette
(20%). It’s luscious on the palate but thirst-
quenching and spry, with a long, invigoratingly min-

92 Château de Manissy 2020 Langoustière

(Tavel). While this dry, salt-rimmed rosé
would indeed make a fantastic companion to lan-
through at least 2023. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer-
chant. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 14.2% Price: $20
eral finish. Delightful young, the wine should hold
through 2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $19
goustines and seafood, Langoustière refers to a high-
quality, old-vine parcel of land in Tavel. Intensely
pink and concentrated in black-plum and raspberry
flavors, this bold wine drinks more like a delicate
91 Château d’Aqueria 2020 Tavel. Delicate notes
of red cherry and apple blossom introduce
this full-bodied but freshly concentrated expression
90 Domaine Maby 2020 La Forcadière (Tavel).
Hints of caramelized sugar and watermelon
introduce this juicy, fresh-fruited expression of
red than your standard poolside pink. Framed with of Tavel. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Tavel. Primary in red-cherry and strawberry flavors
subtle tea tannins and a fringe of scorched garrigue, Clairette, it highlights zippy blackberry and crisp and delicate in tannins, it’s an approachable, thirst-
it’s a solidly built rosé to enjoy well through 2023. black-plum flavors against a backdrop of cassis quenching dry rosé best enjoyed young. DB Wine
Weygandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. acidity and lingering veins of graphite. This delight- Selection. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $29 ful dry rosé should delight red and white wine lov- abv: 13.5% Price: $22
ers alike. Kobrand. —A.I.

92 Château de Trinquevedel 2020 Tavel. Con-

sistently one of the most elegant Tavel bot-
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
90 Les Vignerons de Tavel & Lirac 2020 Cuvée
Royale (Tavel). Shockingly plum-colored
tlings available in the U.S., this perfumed rosé bal-
ances rich red-cherry and raspberry flavors against
a spray of blossoms and sprightly tangerine acidity.
91 Delas Frères 2019 La Comballe (Tavel). Tasted
in March 2021 soon after it was submitted,
this 2019 Tavel proves the longevity of a well-made
in the glass, this berry-scented, dry rosé balances
forward, fruity notes of red cherry and blackberry
against firm strikes of graphite and cut-stone min-
Full bodied but thirst quenching, the wine is built Tavel. Sour cherry on the nose is delicate, but it’s erality. Full bodied and refreshingly composed, it’s
solidly enough to drink well as a year-round rosé a fresh-fruited and penetrating dry rosé. Deep pink
in color, the wine highlights crisp, lip-smacking
Continued on page 139

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander
Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren
Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Edi-
tors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim
Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul
Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John
Holl in New Jersey.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
98 O’Shaughnessy 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). This red is youthful,
wound-up and full of tension. Plush, polished tan-
97 Horsepower 2018 Sur Echalas Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). The aromas jump from
the glass, with laser-focused notes of funk, firepit,
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol-
lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more nins add to a weighty mouthfeel filled with deep peat, black olive tapenade, Stargazer lily, crushed
reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all flavors of cassis and blood orange, with seasonings flower and wet rock. The palate is full in feel, rich
tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara
Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl.
of sage, herbes de Provence and black and white and intense, loaded with fruit and savory flavors that
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its pepper. A showcase of sophisticated complexity, it extend on a potpourri- and olive-brine-filled finish.
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us will do well in the cellar. Enjoy 2028–2038. Cellar It’s outrageous in its appeal, a nearly overwhelming
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices Selection. —V.B. expression of this region. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 14.4% Price: $140 abv: 13.8% Price: $121
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97: A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93:Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89:Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
98 Quilceda Creek 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Aromas of black rasp-
berry, dried herb, cherry, incense, cranberry and 97 O’Shaughnessy 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is such an outstanding
critical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
spice explode from the glass. The flavors undulate wine at any price, but here we’re talking about out-
points) are not reviewed. across the palate, creamy in feel, with layer upon standing value as well. Notes of iron and crushed
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS layer of fruit and barrel flavors. It is completely rock lead to a lengthy balance of juicy red fruit
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- seamless, with outrageous balance—the quintes- and clove. With small amounts of Merlot, Malbec,
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price sential hammer in a velvet glove. The finish carries Saint-Macaire and Cabernet Franc, it shows a deft
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible off into the distance. Best after 2032. Cellar Selec- hand at blending, with lasting notes of black pepper
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to tion. —S.S. and nuanced oak. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
abv: 14.8% Price: $200 abv: 14.8% Price: $75
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our website.
LABELS
97 Adelaida 2018 Signature Viking Estate Vine-
yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Adelaida District).
This suave, polished wine starts off with aromas of
97 Stone The Crows 2018 Three Twins Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A full-
bodied and richly layered wine, this impresses in its
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been black and red fruits, seasoned with black pepper, rapturous notes of oak, caramel and black cherry.
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information graphite, black olive, oregano and bay leaf. The acid- Dense and well structured, it delivers intensity
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax driven palate combines savory tones of soy, mush- alongside nuanced elements of crushed rock, earth
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net room, coffee bean and dark chocolate with lush and underlying acidity. Enjoy 2028–2038. Cellar
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at black-currant and blueberry fruit. —M.K. Selection. —V.B.
winemag.com/ratings abv: 15.1% Price: $125 abv: 14.7% Price: $110

WINEMAG.COM | 103
BUYINGGUIDE

96 Belle Glos 2019 Las Alturas Pinot Noir (Santa

Lucia Highlands). Firm lines of graphite and
96 Dr. Loosen 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Réserve Alte Reben Riesling GG (Mosel).
Sourced from 130-year-old, ungrafted vines on blue 96 Far Niente 2018 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Sauvignon (Oakville). An outstanding vin-
loamy earth streak through the opulent aromas slate soils and matured four years—two in barrel, tage of a beautiful wine, this includes 6% Petit Ver-
of black plum and dried violet on the nose of this two in bottle—prior to release, there’s so much to dot and 3% Malbec. Tobacco, sage, cedar and pencil
brooding Pinot Noir. The palate is a whirlwind of marvel at with this reserve bottling. Opulent in tex- shaving contrast well against a foundation of rich,
exuberance, as leathery tannins wrap around more ture yet svelte and smartly angled, it offers penetrat- layered red fruit, from currant to cherry, and well-
graphite minerality, dried violet and lavender, ing yellow plum and lime flavors edged by layers of integrated specks of peppery, spicy oak. Enjoy from
stewed plum and a touch of bittersweet cocoa on salt, slate and smoke. It should continue to evolve 2028–2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
the finish. —M.K. well through 2030 at least. Loosen Bros. USA. Edi- abv: 14.5% Price: $250
abv: 14.8% Price: $55 tors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $92

96 Borgogno 2016 Fossati (Barolo). Under- 96 Iron Horse 2016 Estate Bottled Brut
Rosé Sparkling Wine (Green Valley).
brush, wild berry, rose and camphor aromas
form the enticing nose along with a whiff of forest
floor. The youthfully austere, savory palate deliv-
96 Ettore Germano 2017 Prapò (Barolo).
Crushed mint, rose, woodland berry and
forest floor aromas lead the nose in this full-bodied
Blending 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Char-
donnay, and given a nice amount of time in
bottle, this is a beautifully layered and acid-
ers ripe red cherry, raspberry compote, star anise stunner. Firmly structured but boasting poise and driven sparkler that shines in fresh strawberry,
and botanical herb framed in firm, refined tannins. precision, the focused palate delivers red cherry, peach and grapefruit peel. The texture is nuanced,
Bright acidity keeps it balanced. This stunner is def- blood orange, tobacco and star anise alongside a elegant and silky, with a fine mousse and hint of wet
initely one for the cellar. Drink 2026–2041. Ethica backbone of noble tannins. A tangy oyster shell note stone. —V.B.
Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. lingers on the close. Drink 2027–2037. Sussex Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $70
abv: 14.5% Price: $119 Merchants. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75

96 Cayuse 2018 Wallah Wallah Special Syrah

#12 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Earth, funk,
96 Famiglia Anselma 2016 del Comune di Mon-
forte (Barolo). Underbrush, pressed rose
and wild berry aromas mingle with nutmeg and
96 Marcarini 2016 Brunate (Barolo). Entic-
ing aromas of blue flower, woodland berry,
menthol and pipe tobacco shape the expressive
smoked meat, ash, black olive, peat and medicinal a hint of flint in this fragrant red. The elegantly nose. Full-bodied and youthfully austere, the linear
aromas lead to a tour de force of fruit and savory fla- structured palate features strawberry compote, palate features Morello cherry, spiced cranberry,
vors that are flat-out intense. It’s the finish of this ripe cherry, grilled porcini and baking spice before licorice and wild mint alongside noble tannins.
wine, however, that most impresses. It grabs you a graphite finish. Taut, refined tannins and fresh Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2026–
and shakes you and refuses to let go. It’s shockingly acidity keep it nicely balanced. Drink 2024–2036. 2046. Empson USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
good. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Crus & Stills. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $105
abv: 14.3% Price: $175/1.5 L abv: 14% Price: $52

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

96 Massolino 2017 Margheria Serralunga d’Alba
(Barolo). Wild berry, cedar, scorched
earth and camphor form the nose along with spicy
96 Sojourn 2018 Oakville Ranch Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Oakville). This spectacu-
lar wine is a knockout—richly layered and full in
95 Abbazia di Novacella 2019 Praepositus
Kerner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). This gor-
geous white opens with aromas of smoke, ripe
accents. Tightly wound and firmly structured, the feel, with flecks of crushed rock, iron and mineral. yellow stone fruit, alpine herb and a hint of spice.
savory palate also shows finesse, offering dried Powerfully built, it has underlying elegance and Full-bodied and elegant, the dry, delicious palate
cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco framed in grace. The earthy and herbal components are unde- has a great depth of flavor, including apricot, yellow
firm, refined tannins. Drink 2025–2032. Vineyard niably compelling and complex. Enjoy from 2028– pear, white pepper and flinty mineral. Crisp acid-
Brands. —K.O. 2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B. ity restrains the rich flavors. Drink through 2027.
abv: 14.5% Price: $114 abv: 14.5% Price: $145 Abbazia di Novacella USA. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $29

96 Royal Tokaji 2016 5 Puttonyos Aszú Red

Label (Tokaji). Gold reflections glimmer in
this amber-colored sweet wine that has aromas of
apricot, yellow peach and Bartlett pear. The palate
shows flavors of acacia honey, canned apricot and
96 Ten Acre 2018 Ritchie Vineyard Horseshoe
Block Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
This supremely concentrated and yet lively wine
95 Benovia 2018 Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma County). This single-vineyard
wine is rich and inviting on the nose and palate, with
Anjou pear. The finish has enough acidity to stand expertly balances energizing acidity against won- smooth, seductive tones of wild raspberry, blueberry,
up to the sweetness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. derful ripeness and richness. Subtle almond, butter nutmeg and white pepper. Medium in weight, it has
abv: 11.5% Price: $65/500 ml and vanilla aromas meet lime, mint and butter- balance and richness in equal measure, with bright
scotch flavors on a full body, with a mouthfilling acidity and a sultry texture. —V.B.
texture and lingering finish. Best from 2024. Cellar abv: 14.1% Price: $80
Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $78

96 Small Vines 2018 TBH Vineyard Estate

Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Citrus-
driven freshness exudes from this estate-grown
white, with accents of earth and white flower chim- 95 Brokenwood 2014 ILR Reserve Semillon
(Hunter Valley). Aromatically open and
ing in. Stone, honeycomb and a trace of nutmeg give
it complexity and lasting elegance. —V.B.
abv: 12.7% Price: $72
96 Williams Selyem 2019 Westside Road Neigh-
bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Bright
and compelling, this blend from several sites exhib-
perfumed, this wine shows notes of lemon balm,
pineapple rind and honeysuckle framed by nutty,
toasty characters. The palate is still fresh as a daisy.
its tremendously impressive notes of rose petal, for- A waxy texture counterbalances the bright, bouncy
est floor and blood orange. Strawberry, raspberry citrus, tropical fruit and herb tones. The finish is
and cherry flavors layer into the ethereal midpalate, long and mouthwatering. Drink now–2029. Old
with a length of cardamom on the finish. —V.B. Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13.6% Price: $75 abv: 11.5% Price: $34

WINEMAG.COM | 105
BUYINGGUIDE

95 Calera 2018 Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mt.

Harlan). An elegant array of baked berries
and creamy masala chai pull the nose deep into this
95 Domaine Serene 2018 Côte Sud Vineyard
Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This lovely wine
is textured and deep, mixing soft fruit flavors of pear
95 Gary Farrell 2018 Rochioli Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Russian River Valley). Steely, spicy and
youthfully grippy, this is a powerful white that’s
single-vineyard bottling from the legendary appel- and peach with resonant barrel notes (40% new) of buzzy in acidity. Tangerine, wet stone, pear and
lation. Dark fruit flavors meet with lavender and buttery brioche. The acidity balances it out without vanilla play around a supple, seamless midpalate.
peppery spice on the palate, which is wrapped in becoming dominant. Rather, it’s the rich and lin- This will be enjoyable for years to come; enjoy from
sticky tannins. —M.K. gering finish that has you reaching for that second 2028–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $100 glass. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $65
abv: 13.9% Price: $90

95 Domaine Bertagna 2018 Grand Cru (Clos

Saint-Denis). This Grand Cru in the village 95 Hartford Court 2018 Far Coast Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This coastal
of Morey Saint-Denis has produced a powerful,
dense and bold wine, reflecting the concentration
of the vintage. Rich and structured, the bold mixed
95 Freemark Abbey 2017 Cabernet Bosché Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). With a small
amount of Merlot blended in, this ageworthy red
wine comes from a site north of Fort Ross and at
high elevation. Rich and rounded in style, it has tex-
ture and complexity that complements and tames
berry flavors and smoky spice promise aging poten- is thick and concentrated in blueberry, black cur- the opulent flavors of peach and vanilla. The finish
tial. Drink from 2026. Taub Family Selections. Cel- rant and a hint of black olive. With grip and power, is spicy and lifted, with a lasting tang. Enjoy from
lar Selection. —R.V. it shows earthy, savory characteristics of cedar, 2028–2032. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $350 tobacco and dried herb, with a length of firm tannin abv: 14.1% Price: $65
and integrated oak. Enjoy from 2027–2032. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $150

95 Domaine Divio 2019 Kalita Vineyard Côte à

Côte Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine
offers deep blackberry and black cherry flavors.
95 Hartford Court 2018 MacLean’s Block Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). A full-bodied,
generously flavorful and robust wine, this is spicy
Aging in 30% new oak adds streaks of espresso, and earthy in tree bark, cedar and dried herb. Fresh
clove and dark chocolate to the finish. The sturdy
tannins are full and ripe, and there is a slim thread
of graphite running through the tail. Drink through
95 Freemark Abbey 2017 Sycamore Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This
deeply colored Cabernet sees small additions of
acidity confronts a wall of riotous intensity of
crushed rock and deep, dark cherry. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $70
2033. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is
abv: 13.9% Price: $60 soft and supple, with red fruit at its core. A mix
of cherry and currant play well against the savory
components and graceful structure. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $150

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

95 Hartford 2015 Outer Limits Vineyard Syrah
(Sonoma Coast). It can be hard to find
coastal Syrah, so this hearty version from the pro- 95 J. Lohr 2017 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Almost opaque in the glass, 95 Pieropan 2018 Calvarino (Soave Classico).
Racy, bone-dry and loaded with tension,
ducer’s Far Coast Vineyard stands out in several this luxury bottling entices with intense aromas this intriguing white offers delicate scents of white
ways. It is lifted in tones of dried herb, lavender and of black currant and blackberry sauce on the nose, spring flower, botanical herb, pear and hazelnut.
garrigue, with a meaty midpalate that is notable in with savory hints of dark olive and caramel spice. The mineral-driven, focused palate features nec-
blueberry and game flavors. Supple, integrated tan- It’s quite dry on the palate, where licorice, violet tarine, Meyer lemon, rosemary and tangy mineral
nins and oak accents surround it all. —V.B. and cassis flavors linger amidst the polished tan- notes evoking briny oyster shell alongside crisp
abv: 14.7% Price: $55 nins. —M.K. acidity. Drink through 2030. LUX Wines. Cellar
abv: 14.8% Price: $100 Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40

95 No Girls 2018 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah

(Walla Walla Valley). The nose boasts aro-
95 Ratti 2017 Rocche dell’Annunziata (Barolo).

95 Henschke 2016 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Eden Valley). This vintage offers all
the finesse and distinctive character for which this
mas of fresh tobacco leaf, dried herbs, peat, cherry,
black olive juice and crushed flowers. The flavors
explode on the palate, displaying mouthcoating
Aromas of pressed rose, sandalwood, men-
thol and black-skinned berry mingle together in the
glass along with a whiff of oak-driven spice. Full-
historic family estate is famed. The nose is plush, richness, layering and broad shoulders. A vio- bodied and loaded with finesse, the poised, savory
with a backbone of eucalyptus, warm stone and let note lingers on the seemingly endless finish. It palate delivers raspberry compote, strawberry and
scrubby South Aussie bush. The palate flows simi- shows the fuller style of the vintage from this estate, licorice before finishing on a coffee bean note. Taut,
larly, wound by chiseled yet fine tannins, expertly hitting it far out of the park. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. fine-grained tannins provide support. Drink 2025–
balanced by juicy fruit and bright acidity. Drink abv: 14.4% Price: $76 2032. LUX Wines. —K.O.
now–2031. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $75
abv: 14.5% Price: $180

95 ONX 2018 Level 22 (Templeton Gap Dis-

trict). This blend of 59% Mourvèdre, 30%
Syrah, 6% Grenache, 3% Viognier and 2% Petite

95 Iron Horse 2012 Estate Bottled Brut Rosé

LD Sparkling Wine (Green Valley). This is a
Sirah is unabashedly rich and thoroughly satisfy-
ing. Unctuous aromas of baked blueberry, nutmeg,
milk chocolate and cola lead into a powerful palate
95 Samuel Louis Smith 2019 Carmelita Pinot
Noir (Monterey County). Layers of raspberry
sorbet, lavender and violet kick off the nose of this
near-equal marriage of Pinot Noir and Chardon- that manages to balance roasted black currant with two-barrel bottling from Pelio Vineyard, which sits
nay, late-disgorged, that opens in a flourish of smoke, root beer and fresh acidity. —M.K. 1,000 feet above the Carmel Valley in shale and clay
green apple, almond and a touch of peppery spice. abv: 15.9% Price: $54 soils. The palate snaps with black raspberry and
Made in a tiny amount, it is floral, effusive and pomegranate flavors, as those floral touches lead
lively yet tremendously sophisticated, elegant and through a wet stone minerality into a sagebrush fin-
complex in structure. —V.B. ish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $110 abv: 13.3% Price: $49

WINEMAG.COM | 107
BUYINGGUIDE

95 Sojourn 2019 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Sonoma Coast). This site has been a
constant for the producer since 2007 and it con-
95 Vasse Felix 2019 Chardonnay (Margaret
River). This classic wine is rich and con-
centrated yet bright and elegant. Citrus, melon
95 Williams Selyem 2019 Olivet Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is
classic Russian River, made from the Martini clone
sistently sources from one block of the vineyard at rind, oyster shell, toasted brioche and nutty notes grown on a famous site. Offering depth and breadth,
some elevation. Intensely built in a rich, layered and flow into a beautifully constructed palate. There’s it is complex in flavors of black cherry compote and
full-bodied style, it offers firm, structured tannins crackling acidity straight out of the gate and subtle, wild strawberry, with underlying notes of tea and
and powerful, juicy waves of dark cherry and berry, toasty oak to ground it. Slippery and slinky, with rose petal. Fresh acidity provides lift and a crisp
with additional notes of crushed rock, dried herb salinity and depth of flavor, this is a finessed, bal- texture. —V.B.
and black tea. —V.B. anced wine. Drink now–2028. Negociants USA– abv: 13.5% Price: $82
abv: 14.6% Price: $69 Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $45

95 Sojourn 2019 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot 95 Williams Selyem 2019 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This is an outstanding showcase
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is one of the
coolest climate sites that the producer sources
from, also known for growing great Syrah. Savory
95 Williams Selyem 2019 Heintz Vineyard Char-
donnay (Russian River Valley). Floral on
the nose and textured in wet stone, this coastal-
for the vintage, showing depth and concentration
mixed with elegance. Dried herb, black tea, turned
earth and crushed rock accent a medium-bodied
and earthy, it has a gamy, meaty quality wrapped in influenced white is high-toned in grapefruit, lime core of dark cherry, blueberry and currant, with
silky smooth tannins. The acidity bursts forth with and oyster shell, with a soul of the sea. An elegant rounded tannins. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
focus and tension. —V.B. structure shows freshness that persists and helps abv: 13.8% Price: $58
abv: 14.2% Price: $48 to tame the contrasting notes of baking spice and
tea. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $65

95 Talbott 2018 Block 51 South Sleepy Hollow

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
95 Williams Selyem 2019 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). This is an elegantly layered, beguil-
ing wine—a reflection of the appellation offered at
Dark plum and wild strawberry aromas meet with
hints of charcuterie and tarragon on the nose of
this block-designated wine. There’s a chalky ten-
95 Williams Selyem 2019 Olivet Lane Vine-
yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A
hearty, full-bodied expression of fresh apple, pear
a tremendously fair price. Strawberry purée and
muddled cherries jump from the glass, wrapped in
rounded tannins and integrated oak. With moderate
sion to the palate, which is loaded with flavors of and a trace of nutmeg, this is an impressive wine concentration and richness, it ends in light accents
baked strawberry, roasted plum, fennel pollen and that shows density and concentration. Its richness of baking spice, cola and tea. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
lavender. —M.K. extends on the palate, making it a fine companion abv: 13.8% Price: $39
abv: 14.6% Price: $75 for equally rich foods. —V.B.
abv: 14.6% Price: $65

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

94 Benovia 2018 Zinfandel (Sonoma County).
Juicy plum, black cherry and a hint of cola
highlight a soft, round core in this wine. Structured 94 Château la Gaffelière 2018 Dame de Gaffe-
lière Grand Cru (Saint-Émilion). This is the
94 Domaine Divio 2019 Clos Gallia Estate Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is fruit-forward,
fresh and open. Instantly appealing, it offers plenty
and well integrated in both tannin and oak, it offers second wine of classed growth Château la Gaffelière. of pretty blueberry, cherry and orange backed by
a length of baking spice and tobacco, impressing in Dominated by Merlot, the wine has weight as well ample tannins. Given 11 months in one-quarter new
style and powerful elegance. —V.B. as a rich, velvety texture supporting the powerful oak, it’s the most open and accessible of the 2019s
abv: 15.2% Price: $42 black fruits. As befits a second wine, this should from Divio, and should be enjoyed through 2025.
develop relatively quickly and generously. Drink Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
from 2025. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.7% Price: $55
abv: 14.5% Price: $53

94 Boekenhoutskloof 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Stellenbosch). An aromatic complexity
graces the nose of this attractive wine, with ripe
aromas of blackberry, mulberry and cassis that are
hit by a solid dusting of wood and cigar box spice. 94 Cordero di Montezemolo 2017 Monfall-
etto (Barolo). Made with certified organic
94 Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Deviate Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). From the Jentoft and
Putnam Vineyards, deviating from the producer’s
It’s medium-plus in weight and robustly structured, grapes, this has aromas of underbrush, ripe dark- single-vineyard designations, this wine is brooding
with gripping, spicy tannins that form a lovely tex- skinned berry, eucalyptus and French oak. The in dark, spicy cherry and raspberry flavors. Touches
ture through the close. The finish boasts an evolu- full-bodied palate reflects the nose, offering dried of wild mushroom and black tea highlight a luxuri-
tion from black fruit to spice and tobacco leaf. Vine- cherry, licorice, coconut and toasted hazelnut ous and savory core that leads to hints of blueberry
yard Brands. —L.B. framed in taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024– and caramel on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $69 2032. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.1% Price: $72
abv: 14.5% Price: $45

94 Caraccioli 2020 Escolle Vineyard Rosé of 94 Domaine Bertagna 2018 Les Beaux Monts
Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée). A tight,
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
bottling begins with crystalline strawberry, pink-
lemonade and rose-petal aromas on the crisp, clean
young wine with tannins and structure still firmly
intact, this offers great potential. It has smoky rich-
ness, with black fruits in the background ready to
94 Far Niente 2019 Chardonnay (Napa Val-
ley). Spicy oak and bright acidity comple-
ment each other in this well-made white, which
and delicious nose. There is a fantastic sizzle on the move forward. It shows weight, density and needs shows strong tones of crisp citrus and green apple.
sip, where a chalky grip frames the poached straw- to age for several years. Drink from 2024. Taub It builds body on the midpalate, with integrated
berry, pluot and rose petal flavors. —M.K. Family Selections. —R.V. woody notes and lasting richness. —V.B.
abv: 12.88% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $155 abv: 14.3% Price: $70

WINEMAG.COM | 109
BUYINGGUIDE

94 Fattoria Le Pupille 2016 Saffredi (Toscana).

Aromas of cassis, fragrant blue flower, men-
thol and Mediterranean brush come to the fore- 94 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2017 Petite Sirah
(Red Hills). Seductive oak-spice aromas and
94 Landmark 2018 Escolle Road Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Snappy black-
raspberry and brisk plum aromas weave through
front. Showing both concentration and a weightless a rich but gentle palate make this full-bodied wine green herbs, juniper and light oak spice on the nose
elegance, the palate doles out baked plum, black- compelling and delicious. Cinnamon, vanilla, nut- of this single-vineyard expression. Landing fresh on
berry jam, vanilla and tobacco framed in velvety, meg and cigar-box scents lead to ripe blueberry and the palate, with plum and woody berry flavors, the
fine-grained tannins. A licorice note marks the mocha flavors and relatively soft tannins. —J.G. wine picks up thyme, green peppercorn and pine
close. Drink 2023–2031. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.1% Price: $65 needle elements as it approaches the menthol-laced
abv: 14.5% Price: $100 finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $60

94 Irvine & Roberts 2018 Convergence Char- 94 Nicolas-Jay 2018 L’Ensemble Pinot Noir (Wil-
lamette Valley). This is a reserve-level,

94 Gary Farrell 2018 Olivet Lane Vineyard Char-

donnay (Russian River Valley). With classic
notes of green apple, white flower and lime, this
donnay (Rogue Valley). Supple, sexy and
seductive, this outstanding wine deftly combines
fresh apple and peach fruit with vivid acidity and an
select-barrel blend from some of the eight sites the
winery works with. Already complex and threaded
with a mix of blue and black fruits, savory herbs,
impressively layered white is quenching in acidity, underlying sense of minerality. This barrel selection citrus and sharply defined barrel toast, it’s a wine
with a subtle backbone of toasted oak. Textured and spent 14 months in half new, half once-filled French that may take some years to unpack. Native yeast
complex, it unfurls lovely additional notes of can- oak. Drink through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. was used, and one-third was aged in new French
died lemon and wild honey. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 oak. Drink through 2033. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.4% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $65

94 La Spinona 2016 Söri Gepin (Barolo). Wood-

land berry, pressed rose and spice aromas

94 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2017 Petit Verdot

(Red Hills). This lavish and layered wine
mingle with earthy notes of forest floor and leather.
Medium-bodied, smoothly structured yet racy,
the savory palate features Marasca cherry, truffle,
94 Pieropan 2019 Soave Classico. Fragrant and
delicious, this opens with heady aromas
of white spring flower, citrus and tropical fruit.
illustrates the “iron fist in a velvet glove” effect as vanilla and star anise framed in taut, fine-grained Vibrant and tangy, the savory palate doles out juicy
it holds its tempting oak-spice aromas and dark- tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced while it grapefruit, white peach and lemon drop before a
chocolate flavors in impressive fine-grained tan- closes on a hint of salted game. Drink 2026–2046. saline mineral finish. Bright acidity keeps it crisp
nins. Scents of cinnamon, cocoa, clove and a hint Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. and balanced. LUX Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
of tobacco lead to ripe blueberry and blackberry fla- abv: 14% Price: $84 abv: 12% Price: $24
vors. Best from 2025. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $65

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

94 Pieropan 2018 La Rocca (Soave Classico).
Aromas of tropical fruit, white spring
94 Roar 2019 Sierra Mar Vineyard Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Fresh aromas of
honeysuckle, sea salt and sliced peach check all the
94 Saints Hills 2016 Plavac Mali (Dingač). Made
from 100% Plavac Mali, this wine is dark
garnet in the glass, with aromas of cassis, black
flower and white stone fruit come to the forefront boxes on the nose of this rich but balanced Char- plum, lavender and slate. It is well balanced and has
along with whiffs of aromatic herb. On the savory, donnay. It’s very taut on the palate, grabbing hold nice weight on the palate, offering flavors of smoked
enveloping palate, tangy acidity accompanies pine- with citrus peel and then opening toward apricot charcuterie, pomegranate and dark berries. The fin-
apple, yellow apple, lemon drop and baking spice and cream. An underlying mint element, which ish is bright, with pleasantly grippy tannins. Drink
before a hazelnut finish. LUX Wines. —K.O. plays against the caramel spice, is what sets this now–2031. Multiple U.S. importers. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $45 wine apart. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $85
abv: 14.7% Price: $50

94 Quinta do Portal 2018 Reserva (Douro).

This powerful wine, dominated by Touriga
Nacional and Tinta Roriz, has great richness. Wood 94 Ron Noble 2019 Richard Dinner Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Mountain). Entirely
94 Samuel Louis Smith 2019 Spear Vine-
yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Deli-
cate touches of apricot and lemon blossom entice
aging still shows in the spicy character, yet a black barrel fermented, this rich, rewarding white from the the nose of this five-barrel bottling. The palate is
currant flavor and bright acidity give freshness to great mountain site is tremendous in tropical notes detailed and layered, showing melon, Makrut lime,
contrast it all. Drink from 2023. M Imports, LLC. of toasted pineapple and mango. It is lush and opu- pomelo skin and pluot flavors, with a crushed stone
Editors’ Choice. —R.V. lent on the palate, with threads of heady vanilla and minerality and zesty acidity throughout. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32 clove that accent it all. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $39
abv: 14.2% Price: $68

94 Ratti 2017 Marcenasco (Barolo). Camphor,

pressed rose and oak-driven spice aromas
come to the forefront. The smooth, full-bodied pal- 94 Ron Noble 2019 Steiner Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Sonoma Mountain). Barrel fermented
94 Smith-Madrone 2017 Riesling (Spring Moun-
tain District). This atypical variety for the
area shines from the producer’s steep, dry-farmed
ate features spiced cranberry, dried cherry, licorice and aged in 50% new French oak, this white is estate vineyard. Light, complex and silky on the
and coffee bean framed in tightly wound, fine- hearty, voluptuous and robust in stone and tropi- waxy palate, it offers flavors of green apple, apricot
grained tannins that clench the close. Drink 2025– cal fruit flavors. Nuances of nutmeg, wet stone and and grapefruit alongside touches of honey and wet
2032. LUX Wines. —K.O. oak provide complexity and savory earthiness as a stone. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65 bright lift of acidity boosts the length. —V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $34
abv: 14.1% Price: $68

WINEMAG.COM | 111
BUYINGGUIDE

94 Starfield 2018 Estate Grown Aglianico

(El   Dorado). Both powerful and silky, this
extraordinary wine is supple in texture, wrapping 94 Wakefield 2015 The Visionary Exceptional
Parcel Release Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare
94 Williams Selyem 2019 Pinot Noir (San Benito
County). Deliciously fresh aromas of black
raspberry, cherry, purple flowers and star anise
deep and complex fruit and spice flavors in fine- Valley). This wine offers a deep well of aromas from make for a stunning nose in this bottling. The palate
grained tannins. Rich black-cherry and blueberry cassis and black cherry fruit to mint, tarragon, is utterly smooth in texture, with a full body yet no
notes coat the palate while nuances of cocoa, cin- black olive and graphite. There’s a lift of acidity on hard edges, showing generous and spicy flavors of
namon and black pepper reveal with time. Best from the palate that’s almost unexpected alongside the baked cherry, cardamom and iron. —M.K.
2025. Cellar Selection. —J.G. plush fruit. The tannins are powerful and chiseled abv: 13.4% Price: $39
abv: 14.8% Price: $42 but well placed, ensuring a long life in the bottle,
until 2035, at least. Taub Family Selections. Cellar
Selection. —C.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $125

94 Stella Bella 2019 Chardonnay (Margaret

River). This wine is part wild fermented
94 Williams Selyem 2019 Vista Verde Vineyard
Late Harvest Gewürztraminer (San Benito
County). This ambrosial nectar is fascinatingly deli-
and whole bunch pressed. It takes a minute to reveal
its charms, but when it does, it offers a perfume of
lemon curd, orange water and flowers flecked with
94 Wild Diamond 2018 Dumb Luck Syrah (Lake
County). This potent, almost pungent,
wine celebrates all the peppery, smoky, grilled herb
cious every vintage. Aromas of jasmine tea, honey,
tuberose, tangerine peel and the slightest hint of
earthy funk lead into a viscous yet acid-washed
salted, toasted nuts. The palate is slinky and slip- aspects of the grape variety while not overdoing the palate. It dazzles in flavors of jasmine, lemongrass,
pery in texture, with crystalline acidity, tangy fruit body and ripeness. It is elegant in texture, moder- Makrut lime and mango custard. —M.K.
and a mineral streak. Drink now–2029. M Imports, ately tannic, letting the layers of black fruit, black abv: 9.3% Price: $40
LLC. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. pepper, rosemary and espresso show themselves
abv: 13% Price: $35 fully. Best from 2025. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32

93 Berryessa Gap 2018 Durif (Yolo County). This

gorgeous, concentrated and warmly tannic

94 Talbott 2018 Block 22 West Sleepy Hollow

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Opulent aromas of cranberry and black cherry are 94 Williams Selyem 2019 Pinot Noir (Rus-
sian River Valley). Beautifully perfumed
wine carries the French name for Petite Sirah. It
boasts rich blueberry, espresso and black-pepper
flavors wrapped in a mouthcoating texture. Excel-
cut by layers of baking spice on the nose of this in aromas of rose petal and freshly turned earth, lent ripeness accompanies good structure for an
block-designated bottling. It lands with lavish this wine is a delicious statement on the power of appetizing balance that demands sip after sip. Edi-
impact and texture on the palate, where firm tan- blending across the appellation. It shows tangy lay- tors’ Choice. —J.G.
nins and penetrating acidity frame the rich flavors ers of boysenberry, cranberry and black tea against abv: 14.5% Price: $35
of dark berry, clove and star anise. —M.K. accents of clove, cardamom, herbes de Provence and
abv: 14.8% Price: $75 orange peel. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $58

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

93 Brooks 2018 Red Letter Pinot Noir (Willa-
mette Valley). Lots of spice, raspberry fruit 93 Château Roubine 2020 Premium Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Beautifully structured, this
93 Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). This is from the estate vineyard,
now just six years old, and proves that the AVA’s
and details of fresh herbs elevate this wine. The rich wine includes perfumed Mourvèdre in the signature depth and detail can be found even in
grapes come from WillaKenzie, Momtazi and the blend. Ripe strawberry fruits have a pure line of such young vines. The blueberry, mulberry and
estate vineyard. There’s a phenolic frame of sharp acidity, hinting at mango and pineapple as well as plum flavors have impressive concentration and
stem and earth around the cherry fruit, and a light lime freshness. Drink from late 2021. Royal Wine depth. Accents of tobacco leaf and coffee add com-
seam of sassafras running through the finish. This Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. plexity. The finish trails out pleasantly with a lin-
is a substantial wine with aging potential. Drink abv: 13% Price: $26 gering highlight of toasted walnuts. It was aged one
2024–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. year in 35% new oak. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.8% Price: $80 abv: 13.7% Price: $48

93 Davis Bynum 2018 Dutton Ranches Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). Earthy in forest
93 Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-

93 Castello di Amorosa 2018 Morning Dew Ranch

Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Moderate tan-
nins, plenty of ripe strawberry and cherry flavors
floor and black tea, this wine also offers generous
helpings of muddled strawberry and raspberry. It’s
a lovely, full-bodied expression that shows elegant
Carlton). Two vineyards (Kalita and Hirshy)
comprise this cuvée, which was given a bit more
new oak (40%) than the rest of Divio’s 2019s. It’s a
and a broad texture make this an outstanding, layers of baking spice and toasted oak. —V.B. fruit-driven wine, with fresh flavors of strawberry,
mouthfilling wine. Grown on a 12-acre hillside vine- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 raspberry and Bing cherry loading the center palate.
yard, it offers hints of vanilla and cinnamon to inte- As with all Divio Pinots, the balance of fruit, acid-
grate with almost jammy red fruits. —J.G. ity, tannin and barrel is impeccable. The finish tilts
abv: 13.1% Price: $75 into tannins, ripe and slightly grainy, with accents
of ground coffee, pencil shavings and granite. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $60

93 Domaine Bertagna 2018 Clos de la Perrière

Monopole Premier Cru (Vougeot). Gently
wood aged, this wine is rich in black fruits and
youthful tannins. Generously textured, it needs

93 Château Peyros 2018 Vieilles Vignes (Madi-

ran). Dense, concentrated and structured,
this powerful wine shows the intensity of Tannat,
further aging. Drink this ripe, full wine from 2024.
Taub Family Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $170 93 Ferrari-Carano 2019 Sky High Ranch Pinot
Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Enticing fruit fla-
mitigated with some lighter Cabernet Franc. Black vors are lightly shaded by baking spices and a touch
fruits and dark chocolate give richness to this young of wood smoke in this full-bodied, deep and well-
wine. Drink from 2024. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. concentrated wine. The palate is drenched in black
abv: 14% Price: $23 cherry, plum and forest floor notes that lead to a
lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $52

WINEMAG.COM | 113
BUYINGGUIDE

93 Folded Hills 2020 Lilly Estate Rosé (Santa

Ynez Valley). Very light in the glass, this 93 Grey Stack 2018 Four Brothers Chardonnay
(Bennett Valley). This is a nicely weighted,
Grenache rosé begins with bubblegum, wet chalk,
watermelon and lemon-spray aromas. There’s
ample tension on the sip, which is both bright and
balanced and moderately oaked white. Bold flavors
of apple, lemon and melon meld with honeysuckle,
finishing on a white peach note. —V.B.
93 J. Lohr 2018 Buena Vista Road Vineyard
Saint-Macaire (Paso Robles Estrella Dis-
trict). From a grape that’s almost forgotten even
chalky, carrying a strawberries-and-cream flavor abv: 14.1% Price: $45 in its ancestral home of Southwest France, this is
that’s easy to enjoy. —M.K. a powerful expression, bursting with black cherry,
abv: 12.7% Price: $28 mesquite and squid ink aromas on the nose. Volup-
tuous on the palate, it offers more roasted cherry
and vanilla flavors, with a long, minty finish. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 16.2% Price: $60

93 Fort Ross Vineyard 2019 Sea Slopes Chardon-

nay (Sonoma Coast). Aged in both stainless
steel and old French oak, this impressive white is
93 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2017 Block Three
Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). Excellent
fruit concentration and generous oak shadings
floral on the nose and inviting in sea brine and cit- make this full-bodied, layered wine a winner. Black
rus accents, reflecting its coastal provenance. Soft cherries and blackberries blend with subtle cin-
and supple, it offers considerable complexity and
sophistication. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
namon, cedar and vanilla notes on a mouthfilling,
moderately tannic texture. Best from 2027. Cellar
Selection. —J.G.
93 Jezreel 2018 Alfa Special Reserve (Shom-
ron). Deep ruby in the glass, this wine is
carried by aromas of blueberry pie and baking spice.
abv: 14.3% Price: $60 It is rich in the mouth, with luscious tannins. Fla-
vors of black currant, dark plum, toffee and mocha
melt into a satisfying finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D.
abv: 15% Price: $36

93 Great Bear 2018 Grand Reserve Cabernet

Sauvignon (Yolo County). Well concentrated
and firmly structured, this full-bodied wine coats
the palate with rich, ripe black-fruit flavors and
subtle dark chocolate, cassis and blueberry accents.
93 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2017 Cabernet
Franc (Red Hills). Opulent vanilla and milk-
chocolate aromas lead to a firm, moderately tannic 93 King Estate 2019 Croft Vineyard Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley). Rich and leesy, with
It is big, moderately tannic and well-balanced for a palate and concentrated blueberry and dark choco- marvelous slaty minerality, this is a showstopper.
wine of this size and depth. Best from 2024. —J.G. late flavors in this full-bodied wine. Delicious now, Bright lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors give the
abv: 14.2% Price: $45 it should be even more complex after 2024. —J.G. palate a refreshing zesty quality. The lingering finish
abv: 14.3% Price: $65 will have you reaching for the next sip long before
the flavors fade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

93 King Estate 2019 Domaine Estate Grown
Made with Biodynamic Grapes Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley). This is made from biody- 93 Long Shadows 2017 Chester-Kidder Red Wine
(Columbia Valley). Aromas of black fruit,
93 Old Creek Ranch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). An intense blackberry aroma
is surrounded by savory, mineral tones of crushed
namic fruit aged sur lie for six months prior to anise, vanilla, cocoa and other barrel spices are fol- granite, turned loam and charred meat on the nose
bottling. Bright lemon, pink grapefruit, Satsuma lowed by pitch-black, rich, hedonistic fruit flavors of this bottling. Black plum and lavender emerge
orange and a hint of clover make for a compelling that bring the acidity and tannin structure of the on the sip, where rich tannins deliver dark carda-
palate. The acid-backed fruit is the dominant fea- vintage. It’s intense, but with plenty of sophistica- mom spice as well as more savory rock and meat
ture of this complete and delightful wine. Editors’ tion. A lengthy finish caps it off. Best after 2025. elements. —M.K.
Choice. —P.G. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $75
abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 14.9% Price: $65

93 Landmark 2018 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot 93 Quady North 2017 4-2,A Syrah (Rogue Val-
ley). A sensational value, this is a dark, aro-
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a bold style of
Pinot Noir, starting with aromas of cherry cordial
and kirsch on the nose. A ripe, rich cherry flavor
93 Longboard 2017 Syrah (Russian River Valley).
This lovely wine offers all you want in the
variety: a mix of garrigue, blackberry jam, lavender
matic and richly fruity wine, with potent flavors of
roasted fruits and scorched earth. It avoids bitter-
ness throughout a long finish, laced with anise and
shows on the palate as well, which is fresh, invit- and dried herb. Along the way are hits of black and a hint of lemon. The power and balance are excep-
ing and made more complex by tarragon and licorice white pepper—seasonings that lift the juicy, bal- tional. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
accents. —M.K. anced and smooth palate of well-integrated oak and abv: 14.1% Price: $25
abv: 14.4% Price: $60 tannin. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40

93 Rococo 2020 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc

(Santa Barbara County). Quite light in the
glass, this wine, from own-rooted vines planted in

93 Le Vigne 2018 Di Acquarello Sangiovese

(Paso Robles). Quite light in the glass, this
quaffable yet complex bottling begins with aromas of
93 Niner 2018 JR Reserve Chardonnay (Edna Val-
ley). Lemon curd, coconut and white flower
aromas meet with a hint of buttercream on the
1974 near Los Alamos, opens with clean, delicate
lines of peach blossom and honeysuckle on the nose.
It’s very zesty and textural on the palate, where
strawberry, red plum, sandalwood and tangerine rind. engaging nose of this bottling. It’s taut and dry on buoyant acidity cuts through the ripe stone-fruit
Fresh and elegant on the sip, it shows orange and the palate, where plumeria and jasmine flavors are flavors. —M.K.
savory pepper flavors wrapped in a firm texture, with presented in a balanced manner, enhanced by tan- abv: 14.7% Price: $24
a pastry accent on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. gerine cream and wet stone. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $41 abv: 14.1% Price: $50

WINEMAG.COM | 115
BUYINGGUIDE

93 Rococo 2020 Shell Creek Chenin Blanc (Paso 93 Stark-Condé 2017 Oude Nektar Cabernet
Sauvignon (Jonkershoek Valley). This wine,
Robles Highlands District). From vines
planted in 1972 on their own roots in clay and loam,
this bottling hits the nose with lime peel, yellow
93 Simonsig 2017 The Garland Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). The nose
of this wine is a bit shy at first, needing time to open
sourced from a high-elevation site, leads with earthy
aromas of fresh mentholated herbs, raw tobacco leaf
and licorice root partnered with snappy currant and
pear, papaya and orange blossom aromas. There’s up and reveal layers of cassis, black plum skin and blackberry liqueur tones. The palate is plush and
a strong sense of brightness to the sip, which cuts leathery spice. The palate, definitely not shy, reveals robust from first sip, with big, gripping tannins that
into the ripe tropical-fruit flavors, with crisp pear the stuffing and potential that awaits. Big, broad are tight and structured, framing the skin-driven black
showing on the finish. —M.K. tannins and assertive oak tones flood the mouth, fruit flavors and fueling the length and astringency on
abv: 14% Price: $24 with concentrated fruit and a firm structure that the finish. Additional earthy tones of cigar box spice
encourages aging. The finish is all grip and spice, and chicory root unfold on the back of the close. Drink
so lay this down until 2027 and then try again in 2027–2033. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —L.B.
the decade to follow. Quintessential Wines. Cellar abv: 14% Price: $85
Selection. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $120

93 Saints Hills 2016 St Roko Plavac Mali (Dal-

matian Coast). This 100% Plavac Mali is
garnet red in the glass, offering aromas of black
raspberry, mocha, red plum and dried purple flower.
In the mouth, flavors suggest cranberry, black rasp-
berry and smoked meats. The wine is fruity upon
entry, with pleasantly chewy tannins and a smooth 93 Square Peg 2018 Square Peg Estate Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). From the pro-
93 Tablas Creek 2020 Patelin de Tablas Rosé
(Paso Robles). Brisk aromas of strawberry
and rainy cement converge on the nose of this pink
yet persistent finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —J.J. ducer’s dry-farmed estate, this wine shows a wealth blend of 75% Grenache, 19% Mourvèdre and 6%
abv: 12.5% Price: $55 of earthiness, dried herb and tangy red fruit. The Counoise. The palate is extremely mineral driven,
oak and tannin are well-integrated within layers of showing chalk and wet rocks as well as lingering
balanced acidity and baking spice. —V.B. tangerine and nectarine flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.7% Price: $68 abv: 13% Price: $25

93 San Simeon 2018 Estate Reserve Cabernet 93 Trombetta 2019 Indindoli Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Russian River Valley). Unctous layers of
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Enhanced with a
20% addition of Petit Verdot, this bottling begins
with aromas of black cherry, clove and cola-scented
93 Starfield 2019 Estate Grown Viognier (El
Dorado). Floral and toasty aromas top beau-
tiful fruit and baking-spice flavors in this bold but
pear and peach frame a full-bodied lushness that
presents as lengthy and broad across the palate.
Underlying acidity complements its richness, with
spice cake. Soft, polished tannins uphold the nicely layered and concentrated wine. This is the hints of citrus adding freshness. —V.B.
piquant red fruits on the sip, where peppery spices, richest of Starfield’s stand-out 2019 whites, show- abv: 14.5% Price: $50
charred meats and wild herbs add nuance. —M.K. ing an expansive mouthfeel and slowly resonat-
abv: 14.5% Price: $80 ing flavors that lead to a lingering finish. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $28

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 92 August Kesseler 2018 The Daily August
Pinot Noir (Rheingau). It’s increasingly dif-

93 Truchard 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carne-

ros). This wine remains one of the finest
values in the Napa Valley and a cool-climate exam-
ficult to find standout Pinot Noir under $30, and
this bristling, intensely black-fruited Pinot delivers
year after year. Notes of granite and smoke weave 92 Castoro Cellars 2019 Estate Grown Zinfan-
del (Paso Robles). Dense, dark and lavish
ple of the variety, to boot. With great opening aro- into crisp black cherry and plum on the palate. It’s aromas of boysenberry, black currant, violet and
mas of blackberry, clove and dried herb, the lifted, succulent in mouthfeel but braced by tingling cas- candied grape boom on the nose of this bottling.
balanced flavors follow suit, showing plenty of sis acidity and a finish framed by crushed stone Similar flavors explode on the palate, from black
freshness and length around a well-integrated and and fine, velveteen tannins. It’s delicious now, but cherry to boysenberry sorbet, with plenty of warm
elegant core. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. should hold well through 2028. Vineyard Brands. pie-crust spice and tannins that have an edge but
abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Editors’ Choice. —A.I. remain pleasantly soft. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.8% Price: $20

92 Caraccioli 2015 Brut Cuvée Méthode

Champenoise Sparkling Wine (Santa Lucia
Highlands). Lots of chalk and baking soda aromas

93 Uphill Vineyards 2015 Jimmy’s Dream Estate

Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Amador County).
This concentrated and well-structured wine is
leap out of the glass in this bottling, which also
shows a light grapefruit scent on the nose. Tart
lemon and grapefruit flavors mix with wet stone on
92 Château Sainte Marguerite 2020 Love
Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This
ripe wine is textured, with good balance between
well built for aging, wrapping firm tannins around the palate. —M.K. its red berry flavors and spiciness. It shows density,
sturdy black-cherry and black-olive flavors. It’s a abv: 12% Price: $52 rich fruitiness and a classic pepper aftertaste. Drink
bit monolithic on the palate, but will relax more and from late 2021. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
gain complexity with time. Best from 2025. Cellar abv: 12.5% Price: $32
Selection. —J.G.
abv: 13.7% Price: $35

92 Caraccioli 2015 Brut Rosé Méthode

Champenoise Sparkling Wine (Santa Lucia
Highlands). A pale pink in the glass, this bubbly
begins with intoxicating aromas of strawberry,
peach, crushed sea shell and wet earth. There’s
ample tension on the palate, where a steely miner-

92 Argento 2018 Single Vineyard Finca Altamira

Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy
raspberry and blueberry aromas are spicy and wild,
ality frames ripe touches of guava and peach. —M.K.
abv: 12% Price: $60 92 Château Vignelaure 2020 Rosé (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). Rich in Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, with a touch of white Rolle in the blend, this
which is what the Altamira section of the Uco Valley textured wine comes from an estate that helped pio-
is known for. A tight and juicy palate is invigorated neer quality rosés. It is ripe in red berry fruits and
by snappy acidity, while this Malbec tastes of plum lifted by juicy acidity. Although it’s ready to enoy
and currant. Grainy tannins add punch and texture now, it could hold well through 2022. Monsieur
to the finish. Drink though 2024. Pacific Highway Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $22
abv: 14.8% Price: $40

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BUYINGGUIDE

92 Fesstivity 2017 Brut Rosé Méthode

Champenoise (Sta. Rita Hills). A yellowish 92 J Vineyards & Winery 2019 Estate Pinot Gris
(Russian River Valley). Beguilingly layered

92 DanCin 2019 Trata Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley).

This estate-grown mix of Pommard and
Dijon clones sees just shy of half new oak. It’s dense
pink color in the glass, this bottling offers a warm,
creamy array of baked bread and dough aromas
flecked with grapefruit zest on the nose. It’s tight
and slate-like in texture, this white is complex and
well structured, with an acid backbone that keeps it
lively and fresh. Peach, Gravenstein apple and wet
and concentrated, with a mix of mulberries, bram- and bright on the palate, loaded with a pithy tan- stone lead to a pillowy, soft finish. —V.B.
bly blackberries and herbs. It shows great depth of gerine flavor. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $36
fruit and strong tannins. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $49
abv: 13.7% Price: $42

92 J Vineyards & Winery 2017 Barrel 16 Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). Velvety and

92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(Dry Creek Valley). Beguiling in peach, apri-
cot and flowers, this perennially impressive white
92 Grosgrain 2019 Petit Grosgrain (Columbia
Valley). This is 54% Syrah, 38% Grenache
and 8% Mourvèdre. The aromas are arresting, with
dripping in dark, brooding fruit character, this wine
is layered and intensely lush. Cola, toasted oak and
clove linger on a long, simmering finish. —V.B.
is majority stainless-steel fermented and it shows piercingly pure notes of black raspberry, plum and abv: 14.4% Price: $90
good balance as a result. Earthy and herbal, the pal- crushed herbs. The palate brings volume but also
ate combines fruit, spice and acidity in good mea- briskness and balance to the blue fruit flavors. It’s
sure and should appeal to many palates. Editors’ the vividness of it all, however, that is most striking.
Choice. —V.B. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.8% Price: $24

92 J. Lohr 2018 Gean Vineyard Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Adelaida District). Dried beef, soy

92 Fesstivity 2017 Blanc de Blancs Méthode

Champenoise (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a
and shiitake mushroom make for a savory start on
the nose of this single-vineyard expression, which
warm and toasty brioche aroma alongside butter
and lemon zest on the nose of this bottling. The
mousse is enrapturing on the palate, delivering a
92 Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2017 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Red Hills). This full-bodied wine
brings together flavors of black cherry and black
also offers familiar dark-berry aromas. That dark-
fruit richness drives through flavors of chocolate and
dried flowers, with a tension that upholds the den-
yeasty tone alongside a Meyer lemon flavor. —M.K. olive, with substantial spiciness from oak and mod- sity. Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $49 erate tannins for a lip-smacking texture. Hints of abv: 15.5% Price: $45
vanilla, cedar and clove accompany the black fruit
notes, adding complexity and interest. Best from
2025. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $75

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

92 J. Lohr 2018 Shotwell Vineyard Malbec (El
Pomar District). Rich and comforting aromas 92 L’Ecole No. 41 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Barrel aromas are at
92 Marimar 2019 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate
Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian River Val-
ley). Green apple, peach and vanilla bean anchor a
of black cherry, baked plum, vanilla and nutmeg kick the fore initially, with notes of roasted coffee bean, balanced and fruity white wine of moderate ripe-
off the nose of this bottling. Soft but apparent tan- vanilla, chocolate and char in front of plum and ness and acidity. Anise and wet stone play second-
nins frame the baked berry flavors as earthy touches cherry. Plump, juicy fruit and barrel flavors follow, ary roles, adding complexity and length. —V.B.
of oregano and iron make for a complex sip. —M.K. with the tannins providing a pleasing squeeze. Give abv: 13.5% Price: $34
abv: 15.5% Price: $60 it additional time in the bottle or decant to see it
at its best. Best after 2024. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Mauritson 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek

Valley). Opening with aromas of vanilla

92 King Estate 2019 Backbone Pinot Gris (Willa-

mette Valley). This wine blends select bar-
rels from five different vineyards. It’s a full-flavored, 92 Landmark 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey County-
Sonoma County-Santa Barbara County).
bean and a touch of peach, this is a fleshy, fresh and
textured white that is balanced and complex. Hints
of lemon and lime provide additional crispness and
slightly rounded style with a concentrated core of Delicious blueberry and black cherry flavors mingle lifted elegance. —V.B.
sweet Meyer lemon. Whole-cluster pressed and on a broad, layered texture in this full-bodied, warm abv: 13.75% Price: $28
aged sur lie in stainless steel, this is crisp, clean, and generous wine. Notes of clove, cinnamon and
fresh and vivid, with the structure to age well ginger enhance the focused core of mint and cherry
through 2026. —P.G. tones. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $27

92 Muga 2017 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja). A

nose with vanilla and spiced berry aromas

92 King Estate 2019 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc (Willamette Valley). This wine is fer-
92 Long Shadows 2019 Poet’s Leap Riesling
(Columbia Valley). Minerality is much
debated, but there is no question that, to the extent
is typical of Muga and provides a nice entry for the
saturated but integrated palate of this wine. Saucy
plum, tomato, berry and vanilla flavors finish with
mented in a mix of concrete egg and French oak, it exists, this wine has it, with plentiful aromas of textural integrity and length. Drink through 2025.
then aged sur lie for added texture. Tart apple fruit caliche and wet rock, followed by notes of lime and Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.S.
is augmented by light accents of stone and steel, flowers. The palate drinks dry, full of citrus flavors, abv: 14.5% Price: $32
and the persistence of the finish extends the palate- tightly wound with electric acidity. It’s full of fla-
refreshing qualities even further. You may catch a vor and class, with its best days in front of it. Drink
hint of toast as it closes out in a smooth, graceful from 2023. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
finish. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $20
abv: 14% Price: $26

WINEMAG.COM | 119
BUYINGGUIDE

92 Niner 2020 Albariño (Edna Valley). Brisk

aromas of Asian pear and Pink Lady apple
92 Ottella 2020 Le Creete (Lugana). Aromas
of elderflower, citrus and tropical fruit lead
the nose. Tangy and savory, the vibrant palate offers
92 Parducci 2019 True Grit Reserve Petite Sirah
(Mendocino). The deep, dark, inky color of
this full-bodied and tannic wine is a good indica-
are broad but clean on the nose of this crisp bot- grapefruit, gooseberry and pineapple before a saline tor of how intense and concentrated its blackberry,
tling. There is fascinating tension on the palate, finish. Lyra Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. blueberry and charcoal flavors are. Quite firm and
which pops with melon and green apple flavors, as a abv: 13% Price: $22 gripping in texture, this impressive beast will age
honeysuckle tone lingers on the finish. —M.K. almost indefinitely. Best from 2027. —J.G.
abv: 12.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $20

92 Niner 2019 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Baked

boysenberry, purple flowers, rusty earth
92 Owen Roe 2018 Red (Yakima Valley). This
wine is 49% Merlot and 38% Cabernet
Sauvignon, with the rest bits of Cabernet Franc and
92 Private Property 2020 Rosé (Santa Lucia
Highlands). A lovely shade of light pink,
this bottling begins with aromatic waves of white
and a hint of caramel show on the nose of this bot- Malbec. It’s immediate in appeal, with piercingly and pink flowers, as well as daffodil, plus poached
tling. It hits the palate with bold and ripe flavors pure aromas of black currant and raspberry along strawberry and melon. Ripe flavors of peach and
of boysenberry pie in a vanilla crust, proving quite with a dark chocolate accent. The palate explodes strawberry show on the sip, which is pleasantly soft
generous and broadly appealing. —M.K. with textured, layered yet elegant fruit flavors, in texture. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 backed by lightly sandy tannins. The balance kicks abv: 13% Price: $20
it up a notch. It’s an exuberant, thoroughly delicious
offering, with no shortage of freshness. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28

92 Old Creek Ranch 2018 El Camino (Central

Coast). Aromas of black raspberry jam, sar-
saparilla and lavender come through on the nose of
this bold blend of 75% Grenache, 16% Tannat and 92 Robert Renzoni 2017 Montepulciano (Tem-
ecula Valley). There is a compelling inten-
9% Syrah. Bay leaf, mace and clove flavors decorate
the dark-berry core on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
92 Owen Roe 2018 Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc
(Yakima Valley). Nuanced aromas of savory
herb, barrel spice, dark chocolate and black cherry
sity to this bottling, beginning with aromas of dark
berry, charred meat, bittersweet cocoa and coffee
bean on the nose. The palate is a little more rounded,
are followed by a well-structured palate, with the with milk chocolate and cappuccino flavors, but that
tightly wound tannins supporting soft, layered fruit dark fruit intensity persists, and tannins rise up in
flavors. It brings both a bit of tannic brawn and the finish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
sophistication and is guaranteed to impress. Best abv: 14.2% Price: $39
after 2024. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 92 Simonsig 2017 Labyrinth Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Stellenbosch). Pomegranate, currant 92 Talbott 2018 Block 50 South Sleepy Hollow
Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High-

92 Sequum 2017 Kidd Ranch Syrah (Napa Valley).

Herbal, earthy and complex, this is a well-
structured wine, rich and layered in blueberry and
and cherry skin form the bouquet of this slightly
shy wine, which is just waiting for a bit more time
to come into its own. Glimmers of turned soil,
lands). Subtle aromas of lemon peel, hazelnut,
toast and wood spice show on the nose of this bot-
tling. The palate presents broad and powerful, but
strawberry flavors. From a two-acre estate, it has tobacco leaf and licorice add earthy interest to the not overly done in any direction, bringing together
length and breadth and is intensely flavorful, finish- fruit tones. The palate is medium-plus in weight, flavors of baked lemon, sea salt and lingering oak
ing in bolts of white and black pepper. —V.B. with plush yet structuring tannins that softly frame spice. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $54 the fleshier fruit flavors. Ample acidity keeps it all abv: 14.4% Price: $60
in check and lends a slight vibrancy to the finish.
Drink 2025–2031. Quintessential Wines. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $23

92 Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Petit Ver-

dot (Judean Hills). Violet-red in the glass,
this wine offers aromas of cherry pie and lavender. 92 Talbott 2018 Kali Hart Estate Grown Pinot
Noir (Monterey). Reliably one of the more
It is pleasant on the palate, with forceful tannins fairly priced Pinot Noirs in California each vintage,
and expansive flavors of cherry preserves, rasp-
berry, vanilla custard, violet and thyme that con-
tract on the savory finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
92 Smith Story 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). Made from a majority of high-
elevation Sonoma Mountain-grown grapes, with
this year’s bottling begins with aromas of dark red
fruit, baked soil and marjoram. The palate is cohe-
sive, weaving together dusty herbs, smoky red fruit,
poration. —M.D. 30% Knights Valley, this lovely white wine offers a firm texture and bright acidity. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15% Price: $45 bright tones of wet stone, orange peel and Meyer —M.K.
lemon. It’s crisp and supple on the palate, with abv: 14.6% Price: $21
enviable tension and grace. —V.B.
abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Shiraz

(Judean Hills). This garnet-colored wine has
aromas of fruits of the wood and fennel bulb. It fills 92 Talbott 2018 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate
Grown Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
the mouth with flavors of cassis, cherry pie, oregano
and a touch of espresso bean that remains promi-
nent to the end. Stealthy tannins are barely discern-
92 Tabor 2016 Malkiya Cabernet Sauvignon
(Galilee). Rich red-violet to the eye, this
wine has a bouquet of dark plum and salted
Toasted hazelnut, Meyer lemon pith, plaster of Paris
and lightly tart yogurt aromas make for a complex
nose in this bottling from an iconic vineyard. The
ible at first, but they slowly make their presence popcorn. It is sophisticated on the palate, with palate is rounded in nutty cashew and hazelnut fla-
known. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. mid-weight tannins wrapping around flavors of vors, with a baked lemon edge adding to the viscous
abv: 15% Price: $45 cherry, cranberry, menthol and aniseed. A cara- mouthfeel. —M.K.
mel note graces the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine abv: 14.4% Price: $42
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $60

WINEMAG.COM | 121
BUYINGGUIDE

92 Testarossa 2019 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).

Aromas of red cherry and hibiscus are
lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and paprika on
92 Williams Selyem 2019 Unoaked Chardon-
nay (Russian River Valley). This is made
from older vines, which show some of the grip not
91 Auburn Road 2017 Gaia (Outer Coastal Plain).
The nose combines black raspberry, black
cherry and cassis with cigar smoke. Flavors of juicy
the nose of this appellation blend. Zesty cranberry provided by oak. It is citrus-driven, with pomelo, raspberry and blackberry open the palate, lifted by
and raspberry flavors pop on the palate, which quince and pear flavors framed by the youthful exu- energetic acidity and powdery, gentle tannins, with
offers a light herbal tinge and a flash of eucalyptus berance of fresh acidity alongside accents of wet a balance of dried herbs, pepper and sweet tobacco.
oil. —M.K. stone and spice. —V.B. The lingering finish brings more fruit to the mix by
abv: 14.1% Price: $54 abv: 13.8% Price: $39 way of pomegranate and red currant flavors. —F.A.
abv: 13.5% Price: $23

92 Tre Monti 2020 Vigna Rocca Albana Secco

(Romagna). Intense aromas of apricot
jam, ginger and cedar are front and center. On the
92 Zonte’s Footstep 2018 Love Symbol Gre-
nache (McLaren Vale). The nose of this wine
is lucid and inviting in a fruit bowl of fresh rhubarb, 91 Auburn Road 2016 Giulia (Outer Coastal
Plain). Cassis and black plum aromas are
smooth, rounded palate, tangy, vibrant acidity lifts raspberry and red cherry, with fistfuls of dried flow- joined by a smoked paprika tingle on the nose. Fla-
ripe yellow peach, pineapple juice and hazelnut fla- ers, seaside herbs, whispers of baking spice and a vors of wild raspberry and juicy pomegranate lift
vors before a savory, almost salty finish. Bacchanal stony, mineral underbelly. There’s a lovely textural the palate and are balanced by a savory peppery
Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. element to the palate, which plays nicely with the spice note. The finish is loaded with oak, tobacco
abv: 13.5% Price: $16 acidity and sinewy tannins. A spicy, floral note and more pepper. The tannins are dry, firm and
flows to the finish. Drink now–2025. Artisans & structured, well balanced by bright acidity. This is
Vines. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. harmonious and should evolve nicely; drink now–
abv: 14.5% Price: $23 2026. —F.A.
abv: 13% Price: $24

92 Vins El Cep 2014 Claror Can Prats Brut Nature

(Cava). Tight, minerally aromas of lime and
wet stone are backed by a mild lees note. A yeasty
palate is steadied and cut by bold acidity, while
this brut nature delivers moderately complex lime,
apple and green herb flavors. The finish is light,
91 Amavi 2018 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Walla Walla Valley). A dark chocolate
aroma is at the fore, followed by notes of black cur- 91 Aurora NV Brut Rosé (Leelanau Peninsula).
Flamingo pink in the glass, aromas of blos-
elegant and bright. Drink now. Fine Estates From rant, coffee, cherry and spice. The flavors are sump- soms, plum, strawberry and pink grapefruit are
Spain. —M.S. tuous and layered, with enough tannic structure to full on the nose. Ripe summer strawberry bursts
abv: 12% Price: $42 do well with some additional bottle age. Editors’ through a foamy palate, layering in golden rasp-
Choice. —S.S. berry, watermelon juice and a squeeze of Key lime.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Utterly charming and delicious, its vibrancy and
energy are contagious. —F.A.
abv: 11.7% Price: $24

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

91 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Añares Reserva (Rioja).
Ripe plum and berry aromas come with
vanilla and baking spice notes on the nose. A firm 91 Canvasback 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). The warmth of the appellation is
91 Château Miraval 2020 Miraval Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). There is an attractive rich-
ness to this wine produced by the Perrin family of
and direct palate has energy and pop, while black- on display, with notes of date and plum alongside Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The wine is full of ripe red
berry and cassis flavors are a touch saucy in front black tea, cherry, cigar and herbs. The flavors are berries mingling with spice and citrus. With a fresh,
of a sturdy finish. Drink through 2024. Tri-Vin palate-coating and rounded, bringing texture that crisp and textured aftertaste, it is ready to drink.
Imports. —M.S. ups the appeal. There’s plenty of midpalate rich- Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22 ness, with a lot of structure behind it all. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $28
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $42

91 Bouchaine 2019 Estate Pinot Gris (Carneros).

This white spent seven months in stainless-
steel tanks before aging partly in neutral oak and
partly in stainless. Inviting aromas of fennel and
honeysuckle highlight a dry, textured palate of
91 Cellars 33 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Mountain). Crisp, tangy and dry, this wine
offers lasting acidity throughout, with lifted flavors 91 DanCin 2018 Synergy Barbera-Pinot Noir
(Rogue Valley). This unusual blend of 75%
lemon verbena, lime and peach. —V.B. of strawberry and raspberry. Given a small amount Barbera and 25% Pinot Noir spent 18 months in
abv: 13.5% Price: $36 of time in French oak, it offers a lively yet balanced one-third new French oak. It is dark, toasty and
mouthfeel. —V.B. tannic, with touches of leather and steel. It’s a juicy
abv: 12.4% Price: $25 wine with medium-long aging potential. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $44

91 Canoe Ridge 2018 The Explorer Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas offer
91 Daou 2020 Rosé (Paso Robles). Light peach
notes of toasty barrel spice, bittersweet chocolate,
licorice and cherry. Rich dark-fruit flavors follow,
lingering on the finish. It shows a lot of polish and
91 Château de Berne 2020 Inspiration Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Aging on the lees has
allowed this wine to have depth and ripe concentra-
and apricot aromas are leveled by wet rock,
rose and lemon peel accents on the nose of this
bottling. It tightens firmly on the sip, where melon
class. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. tion, which contrast well with the bright red-berry and stone fruit flavors are splashed by a bit of cit-
abv: 14.5% Price: $23 flavors and spicy, tight aftertaste. Drink now for rus. —M.K.
best enjoyment. Provence Rose Group. —R.V. abv: 13.7% Price: $24
abv: 12.5% Price: $22

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BUYINGGUIDE

91 De Bortoli 2019 Woodfired Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Heathcote). This Cab shows supple
red and black fruit, flowers and spice notes. As it
91 Dowsett Family 2018 Gewürztraminer
(Columbia Gorge). Winemaker Chris Dowsett
is a Gewürztraminer savant, consistently crafting
91 Gaderian 2019 Henry Ranch Chenin Blanc
(Napa Valley). Lighthearted tones of apricot
and potato skin lead this dry, textured and struc-
opens, gentle accents of graphite and herbs float to some of the most compelling offerings in the United tured white wine. It is made from old vines, barrel
the fore. The cool climate of the region is on display States. A blend of Oak Ridge and Celilo Vineyards fermented and aged in neutral French oak. —V.B.
on the palate, where lifted acidity and pristine fruit fruit, this lovely bottle shows aromas of lychee, gin- abv: 13.8% Price: $32
are woven through with powdery, well-placed tan- ger, flowers, pink grapefruit and wet rock, with a
nins. Drink now–2029. PH Importing. —C.P. whiff of smoke. The palate is bone-dry, textured and
abv: 14.5% Price: $22 full of flower and lychee flavors that draw out on the
finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $16

91 J Vineyards & Winery 2018 Foggy Bend Vine-

yard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Spicy tea and clove combine around a con-

91 Domaine de la Rivière 2019 El Diablo Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine
centrated core of blueberry and toast in this rich,
unctuous and darkly fruited wine. Concentrated at
from the famous site is brimming in red currant,
rhubarb and wild strawberry, with strong notes of
oak and caramel. Medium in weight, it has under-
91 Dunham 2018 Trutina (Columbia Valley).
Vanilla, baking spice, coconut and cocoa
aromas are in the lead. They are followed by dark
the beginning, it evolves to find a velvety silkiness
that reaches a lengthy finish of oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $70
lying freshness that complements the richer over- cherry and plum flavors that show saturation and
tones of cola and baking spice. —V.B. intensity. It hangs on the finish and there’s tannic
abv: 14.3% Price: $100 heft behind it all. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $29

91 Domaine de la Rivière 2019 Heritage Block

Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From a
three-acre block on the producer’s estate, this light, 91 Forgeron 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla
Walla Valley). Seven Hills Vineyard fruit 91 J. Lohr 2018 Home Ranch Cabernet Franc
(Paso Robles Estrella District). Smoked and
lithe wine is brimming in bright layers of straw- makes up 58% of this wine, with the rest coming baked black-fruit aromas hit the nose in delicious
berry, raspberry and savory, herbal complements of from Minnick. It’s been aged two years in French oak ways in this bottling, as do streaks of graphite and
pine cone and black tea. The oak touch is light and (35% new), and the aromas are pleasing in notes of dried beef. Hickory notes carry onto the palate, giv-
well integrated, adding a hint of baking spice. —V.B. flowers, black cherry, barrel spice and bittersweet ing oaky depth to the dark-berry flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.1% Price: $85 chocolate. There’s a sleekness and freshness to the abv: 15.5% Price: $60
flavors, with plenty of structure around it all. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $35

124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 91 King Estate 2019 Paradox Made with Estate-
Grown Biodynamic Grapes Pinot Gris (Wil-
lamette Valley). This wine is aged briefly in 100%
91 Klinker Brick 2017 Marisa Vineyard Old Vine
Zinfandel (Lodi). This full-bore, full-bodied
wine is packed with powerful flavors of black fruit,

91 Julia’s Dazzle 2020 Rosé (Columbia Valley).

Coming in its classic bowling pin-shaped
bottle that is part of the appeal, this wine is a
new French oak, which softens the edges. The oak is
gently applied, leaving just a watermark kiss of toast
on the ripe citrus and apple fruit. It’s a clever addi-
black pepper and toasted oak. All this is balanced
on a moderately tannic frame that is easily up to the
task of matching all that ripeness. —J.G.
pretty pale peach color. The aromas offer hyper- tion to the winery’s lineup and will likely generate abv: 15.4% Price: $25
appealing notes of watermelon, citrus and tropical new interest in this grape. —P.G.
fruit. Mouthwatering, puckering kiwi and star fruit abv: 12.6% Price: $35
flavors follow, finishing lip-smacking and bone-dry.
Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $18

91 King Estate 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Oregon).

This is a zesty wine, loaded with bright
lemon, lime and grapefruit. The acidity is promi-

91 King Estate 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Wil-

lamette Valley). This is tart and tasty, with
bright fruit flavors of strawberry and raspberry,
nent, giving the mouthfeel a refreshing racy qual-
ity. It was fermented in both stainless and concrete,
and blended with a little Sémillon, which helps to
91 Le Vigne 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). There’s a pleasant herbal tone to
the nose of this bottling, with layers of peppercorns
along with zippy citrus acidity. Fresh as a sum- broaden out the midpalate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and oregano leading into aromas of graphite, seared
mer breeze, it has texture and persistence. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $19 wood, charred meat and dark-red fruit. The palate
Choice. —P.G. combines those herbal and savory tones with cherry
abv: 13.9% Price: $20 and strawberry flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $28

91 King Estate 2019 Steiner Block Estate Grown

Certified Biodynamic Pinot Gris (Willamette

91 King Estate 2019 Johnson School Vineyard

Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This Chehalem
Mountain vineyard has ripened its fruit to a perfect
Valley). This is less ripe than previous vintages of
the Steiner Block cuvée, but the estate-grown bio-
dynamic fruit delivers nuanced complexity none- 91 Marimar 2019 Don Miguel Vineyard Acero
Estate Grown Estate Bottled Unoaked Char-
pitch. It retains a bit of the grassy note sometimes theless. Fermented and aged in concrete, it deftly donnay (Russian River Valley). The producer’s uno-
found in variety but avoids the more aggressive pyr- marries juicy lime-inflected citrus to the minerality aked white is cloudy and reductive at first, with an
azine flavors that can lead into bell pepper. There’s imposed by the concrete. —P.G. oily texture. Peach, apricot and apple blossom come
juicy citrus fruit, crisp apple and a touch of lemon abv: 12.8% Price: $28 to the fore around aromas of jasmine and bright,
zest, along with ample acidity. —P.G. crisp acidity, finishing on a wet stone accent. —V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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BUYINGGUIDE

91 Nickel & Nickel 2019 Truchard Vineyard Char-

donnay (Carneros). Tones of oak spice per-
fume this opulently rich and layered white wine,
91 Oak Farm 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi).
Toasted oak aromas lead to concentrated
black-cherry flavors on the palate, where nuances of
91 Owen Roe 2019 Sinister Hand (Columbia Val-
ley). The aromas fascinate in notes of rasp-
berry, thistle, cranberry, blueberry, herbs and cof-
with fresh acidity laced throughout. Flavors of pine- cedar, wood smoke and vanilla blend in nicely. This fee. Plump, palate-coating flavors follow. There’s
apple, baked pear and nutmeg highlight a seamless, well-balanced, moderately tannic wine has a lot a lovely texture and purity to this wine, while it
graceful palate. —V.B. going for it. —J.G. remains light on its feet. Raspberry and blueberry
abv: 14.2% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $24 notes linger on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28

91 Niner 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé (Edna Valley).

Delicate and subtle on the nose, this bottling
91 Ottella 2020 Lugana. Intense aromas of white
spring flower, grapefruit and pineapple leap
from the glass. The grapefruit note marches over to 91 Pfitscher 2019 Langfeld Pinot Bianco (Alto
Adige). Bone-dry and offering an understated
slowly reveals its light berry and crushed rock aro- the tangy, refreshing palate along with white peach, elegance, this opens with delicate scents of haw-
mas. The grippy texture clings to the palate, where tropical fruit and crisp acidity. It closes on a saline thorn, hay and a whiff of alpine herb. Bright and lin-
strawberry and earth flavors linger around the tense note. Lyra Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. ear, the palate features yellow apple, Bartlett pear
core. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and hazelnut before a flinty mineral finish. Vera
abv: 12.9% Price: $25 Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $17

91 Owen Roe 2019 Red Willlow Vineyard Char-

donnay (Yakima Valley). Fruit for this wine
comes from one of the top sites in the state. Aromas

91 Niner 2018 JR Reserve Pinot Noir (Edna Val-

ley). Subtle aromas of dark cherry, mahogany,
rose and hibiscus make for a restrained yet detailed
of clarified butter, crayon, crème brûlée and spice
lead to surprisingly reserved fruit flavors. —S.S.
abv: 13.1% Price: $28 91 Postmark 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Fresh and fruity aromas of cherry
nose in this reserve bottling. The cranberry, orange- and strawberry meet with notes of French toast and
rind, potpourri and light herb flavors are cohesive on light herbs on the nose of this bottling. Those juicy
the palate, and will only grow more interesting with fruits come through on the palate as well, with a
time. Drink through 2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. baked red-cherry flavor that is framed by cigar-box
abv: 14.5% Price: $65 and nutmeg accents. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

91 Quady North 2020 GSM Rosé (Rogue Valley).
This classic G-S-M blend, here done as a dry
rosé, absolutely rocks. The balance of fruit and acid-
91 Scotto Family Cellars 2018 Reserve Mohr Fry
Ranch Zinfandel (Lodi). Big and concentrated
but also nicely polished in texture, this full-bodied
91 Soul Squeeze 2017 The Pearl Sparkling Rosé
(Old Mission Peninsula). Scented with straw-
berry and green apple, this wine is a beautiful
ity strikes a perfect chord, and the harmonious fla- wine offers a seamless experience from the deep salmon pink color in the glass. The palate doles out
vors bring a mix of raspberry, cherry, orange and a blackberry and raspberry aromas to rich flavors and ripe Macintosh apple and Valencia orange, with a
hint of chocolate. The blend is 63% Grenache, 26% velvety tannins. —J.G. fine mousse and tart acidity. Juicy and bright, this
Syrah and 11% Mourvèdre, all specifically farmed abv: 14.8% Price: $20 is really easy and enjoyable, ending on a pithy lemon
for this rosé. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. note. —F.A.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $28

91 Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Cabernet

Sauvignon (Judean Hills). This dark-violet

91 Raptor Ridge 2017 Gran Moraine Vineyard

Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton). Barrel fer-
mentation pushes lightly toasty aromas front and
wine offers aromas of black cherry, smoked meat
and violet candy. It is juicy at first sip, with flavors
of blackberry and dark plum. Next, cooling eucalyp- 91 Tamarack 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-
bia Valley). The aromas pop in notes of sappy
center, and the flavors follow. A mix of regular bar- tus takes hold, joined by notes of charcuterie and blue fruit, graphite, dried cherry, coffee, sweet spice
rels, puncheons and new barrels was used for the oregano. The tannins are lightly drying and the fin- and a sprinkling of dried herbs. The flavors are lush,
fermentation. The crisp citrus, apple and pear fruit ish has a burst of salted toffee. Kosher. Royal Wine textured and rich, showing plenty of depth and lay-
stands up well, and the generous acidity keeps the Corporation. —M.D. ering. —S.S.
flavors lifted through the finish. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $36
abv: 13.5% Price: $35

91 Scattered Peaks 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Napa Valley). This vintage continues to
91 Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Petite
Syrah (Judean Hills). Inky red-violet in the
glass, this wine has a bouquet of black currant and
91 Truth Be Told 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). All the fruit for this wine
comes from Goose Ridge Vineyard in the Goose Gap
deliver on the brand’s high-quality-for-good-value anisette. Flavors of cranberry sauce, stewed plum, area. The aromas bring direct appeal, with notes of
proposition, showing firm, substantial tannin licorice, clove and milk chocolate fill the mouth, black currant, herbs and plum. It’s a big mouthful
structure around supple layers of plum and dark supported by a network of dense tannins. The of a wine, showing tremendous midpalate density
cherry. It’s a highly enjoyable wine without the fuss. bright finish features a parting shot of orange zest. and richness that carries it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $18
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 15.5% Price: $45

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BUYINGGUIDE

91 Villa San-Juliette 2020 Reserve Small Lot

Selection Rosé (Paso Robles). Clean and crisp 91 Willful 2018 Seven Hills Vineyard Red (Walla
Walla Valley). Half Cabernet Sauvignon, half
on the nose, this Grenache-based rosé pops with
melon, poached strawberry and citrus aromas. The
palate is firmly grippy, offering citrus peel, red apple
Merlot and hailing from one of the valley’s top sites,
this old-vine wine was fermented whole cluster.
The aromas intrigue in notes of black tea, flower,
90 Banshee 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Opening with aromas of plum and
spiced black cherry, this is a full-bodied, fruity and
and apricot flavors against a steely frame. —M.K. raspberry, soil, date and cassis. There’s pleasing concentrated wine. It is ripe and lush in texture.
abv: 13.6% Price: $25 depth and freshness to the flavors, with the oak Cedar and dried herb flavors accent the brambly,
pulled way back. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. richer tones of cola and blackberry jam. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $32 abv: 14.7% Price: $50

91 Wakefield 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (South

Australia). This wine is perfumed in plum
and dark cherry fruit, dried flowers, earthy herbs
and an oak-driven charred-meat note that adds
character. There’s a lovely lift of acidity that makes
90 Aveleda 2019 Villa Alvor Domus (Algarve).
This blend of Verdelho and Sauvignon
Blanc has produced a crisp, textured wine. With fla-
90 Bel Lago 2019 Brut Auxerrois (Leelanau Pen-
insula). Mandarin and Meyer lemon aromas
meet white blossom and honey on the nose. The pal-
the fruit feel crunchy. The tannins are chalky tex- vors of pineapple and ripe kiwi to balance the tight ate balances ripe fruit with a hint of savory tones,
tured and taut. In typical Cabernet fashion, they’re acidity, it is full-bodied and ready to drink. Aveleda combining Bartlett pear and baked apple with notes
powerful but not overwhelming. Taub Family Selec- Inc. —R.V. of pie crust, biscotti and lemon juice. Cloud-like
tions. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 bubbles and bouncy acidity persist while a touch of
abv: 14% Price: $16 pithy bitter-citrus oil emerges on the finish. —F.A.
abv: 13.2% Price: $22

91 Wakefield 2015 The Pioneer Exceptional Par- 90 B.R. Cohn 2019 Silver Label Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (North Coast). Delicious black-fruit
cel Release Shiraz (Clare Valley). This wine is
currently in a quiet spot and needs either lengthy
decanting or to be opened a day in advance of
flavors and judicious oak spices of vanilla and cedar
make this full-bodied wine attractive to sip and
savor. Light tannins and fresh acidity keep it nicely
90 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Reciente Reserva
(Rioja). Aromas of cardamom and other
baking spices blend with peppercorn and blueberry
drinking. It’s only then that it feels cohesive, and balanced. —J.G. accents to form a unique nose. On the full-bodied
the red fruit, floral and savory spice and umami abv: 14.1% Price: $19 palate, flavors of berries and toast carry to the fin-
notes start to shine. It’s tightly structured, with ish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
fresh acidity and sinewy tannins, and clearly built abv: 14% Price: $28
for the long haul. Hold through 2028. Taub Family
Selections. —C.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $125

128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

90 Bonterra 2019 Made with Organic Grapes
Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). A broad
mouthfeel and generous fruit and spice flavors make
90 Bricoleur 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-
ley). This big, hearty wine is velvety and
rich in feel, offering elements of forest floor, black
90 El Pino Club 2018 The Cusp Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Juicy, expansive
and fleshy in red licorice, strawberry and raspberry,
this velvety and layered wine easy to love. It boasts tea and rose petal. The oak adds a caramel-toffee this wine is thick and rounded. Cola and cinnamon
subtle cinnamon, black plum, clove and vanilla tone seasoned in baking spice, with a bit of cola notes linger alongside a finishing touch of toasted
flavors on a full body, all wrapped in soft tannins. arising on the finish. —V.B. oak. —V.B.
—J.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $47 abv: 14.6% Price: $50
abv: 13.8% Price: $18

90 Bonterra 2019 Made with Organic Grapes

Zinfandel (California). Oodles of ripe fruit
90 Château Ferry Lacombe 2020 Evidence Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). This wine is ripe and
smooth, with good balance between the texture and
90 Figuière 2020 Magali Signature Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Packed with rich fruit along-
side a layer of caramel, this ripe wine has flavors of
flavors ride a full body in this dark-colored, satu- rounded red fruits. Bold shots of pepper and spice red berries and apricots that are cut with grapefruit.
rated wine. Impressively concentrated chocolate and propel the palate forward. Drink now. Quintessen- Its full texture makes it easy to enjoy in the near
black-cherry notes are braced by fine-grained tan- tial Wines. —R.V. term. Winebow. —R.V.
nins for an almost chewy texture. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $23
abv: 15.3% Price: $16

90 Bouchaine 2019 Estate Pinot Meunier (Carne-

ros). A 100% varietal wine from a grape
90 Domaine de la Rivière 2019 Flora Marie
Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Val-
ley). Reductive tones take time to unleash classic
90 Good Harbor NV Benjamin’s Vineyard Blanc
de Noirs (Leelanau Peninsula). This is
medium gold in color, with a persistent foaming
nearly unheard of in California, this offers sizzling flavors of Meyer lemon, green apple and oak in this cap. The nose is pungently floral, scented with can-
acidity and a thick, full-bodied approach to the highly flavorful and powerful white. The texture is died apple slices in rosewater. The palate shows ripe
grape. Plum, cherry and mushroom meld on the pal- lush and oak-influenced, showing rich flecks of bak- Golden Delicious apple and Bosc pear alongside gin-
ate, with a light touch of oak. —V.B. ing spice. —V.B. ger and pie crust. Tame bubbles and acidity provide
abv: 14.5% Price: $68 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 the anchor to it all. This is a journey, but an enjoy-
able one. —F.A.
abv: 12% Price: $24

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90 J Vineyards & Winery 2018 Chardonnay (Rus-

sian River Valley). Lushly opulent tones of
Gravenstein apple and stone fruit carry this wine,
90 LangeTwins 2020 River Ranch Vineyard
Aglianico Rosé (Jahant). Generous fruit
flavors and a polished texture are complemented
with a creamy texture and rich notes of graham
cracker and toasted vanilla adding depth. The oak
is well integrated and adds to the power and length
90 J. Lohr 2018 Home Ranch Petit Verdot (Paso
Robles Estrella District). Aromas of black
cherry, blackberry candy, cola and caramel show on
by bright, underlying acidity in this flavorful, well-
balanced and harmonious wine made from an Ital-
ian grape variety. —J.G.
of it all. —V.B. the nose of this bottling. It lands softly on the palate, abv: 13.5% Price: $22
abv: 14.3% Price: $33 with ripe mixed berry flavors. The tannins and acid-
ity are firm in stature. —M.K.
abv: 15.2% Price: $45

90 J Vineyards & Winery 2018 Eastside Knoll

Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian
90 Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de
Saint-Tropez 2020 Fleur de Mer Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Ripe, soft and perfumed, this is an
River Valley). Richly oaked, this bold, brawny wine immediately attractive wine in a classic style. It
is medium in weight and layered in caramel, baked has a lightly saline character, with pepper and zesty
cherry and a bite of graham cracker. Elements of orange flavors. E. & J. Gallo. —R.V.
clove, cinnamon and cola weigh in on the lingering
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $65
90 J. Lohr 2018 Shotwell Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (El Pomar District). Soft aromas
of baked cherry meet with rich mahogany and cola
abv: 13% Price: $23

on the nose of this bottling. The palate picks up

shiitake, pepper and tar flavors, with sticky tannins
that carry the ripe red fruit to the finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.3% Price: $45

90 Llopart 2018 Rosé Brut Reserva Mètode

Tradicional Corpinnat (Spain). Lightly

90 J. Lohr 2019 Gesture RVG Limited Release

White (Adelaida District). A citrus-pith
aroma kicks off the nose of this blend of 51%
bready aromas of cantaloupe and citrus fruits open
this lively sparkling rosé. Flavors of orange, apricot
and apple start out with force before transitioning
Roussanne, 37% Grenache Blanc and 12% Viognier, to pink grapefruit and orange accents that carry to a
followed by mango and green papaya notes. A lime steady finish. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.S.
sorbet flavor shows on the palate, where a zesty abv: 11.5% Price: $28
acidity zings alongside a wet chalk note. —M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $35 90 King Estate 2019 Quail Run Vineyards Viog-
nier (Rogue Valley). Softly perfumed with
nods to dandelions and talcum powder, this turns
sharp and spicy on the palate. Notes of flowers carry
on through the finish, along with gooseberry and
white peach. —P.G.
abv: 13.2% Price: $26

130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

90 Louis M. Martini 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This wine delivers flavors of
90 Maddalena 2019 Estate Reserve Merlot
(Paso Robles). Aromas of black plum,
smoke, oregano and turned earth show on the nose 90 Niner 2019 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Tight
and focused aromas of citrus and white
jammy blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate and gra- of this estate bottling named in honor of the family flowers show on the nose of this bottling. A rocky
ham cracker that make for a decadent, approachable matriarch. The smoke tone is laced through the sip, minerality drives the palate through a rounded
experience. Drinkable now, it will please an array of where broad flavors of dark red fruits and savory white peach flavor, with a grippy tension countering
palates. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. meats arise. —M.K. the ripe fruit. —M.K.
abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $25

90 Luca Bosio 2017 Barolo. Spice, pine forest

and new leather aromas slowly take shape
in the glass. The linear, medium-bodied palate 90 Misiones de Rengo 2018 Gran Reserva Black
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Berry
90 Oak Farm 2020 Silvaspoons Vineyards Rosé
(Lodi). The copper color of this appealing
and light-bodied wine matches the bottle’s foil cap-
offers cranberry, licorice and a hint of smoke along- and black plum aromas are briary at first but soften sule, while lively aromas of raspberries and cran-
side taut, slightly grainy tannins. Drink through with airing. This Cabernet is flush and fruity, with berries lead to a refreshing, dry palate that echoes
2027. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. smooth tannins reflective of a good vintage. Spicy the berry aromas. —J.G.
abv: 14% Price: $45 berry and cassis flavors come with a touch of oak, abv: 12.5% Price: $16
while this keeps its smoothness on a healthy finish.
Drink now–2023. Terroir Connections. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Lucas & Lewellen 2018 High 9 Goodchild

Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). 90 Pendulum 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). The aromas offer
Pomegranate and hibiscus aromas float across
cinnamon stick spices on the nose of this single-
vineyard, block-designated expression. The spice is
90 Muirwood 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo
Seco). This bottling isn’t afraid of pyrazines,
popping on the nose in tones of jalapeño and freshly
notes of fresh green herbs, black currant, licorice
and plentiful barrel spice. The cherry and green
pepper flavors are soft and plump, like those of
powerful on the palate as well, giving a kick to the mowed grass, with wet stone and Pink Lady apple many wines from the vintage, showing elegance
potpourri, cedar and cranberry flavors. —M.K. adding depth. There’s a firm tension to the sip, where through the middle and plenty of balance. Editors’
abv: 14.5% Price: $35 pasilla chile flavors play against light peach and green Choice. —S.S.
mango tones. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $18
abv: 13.5% Price: $16

WINEMAG.COM | 131
BUYINGGUIDE

90 Pendulum 2019 Red Wine (Columbia Val-

ley). Vanilla, cocoa and cherry aromas are
followed by smooth, deft fruit and barrel flavors.
90 Rombauer 2019 Proprietor Selection Char-
donnay (Carneros). A reserve-tier wine only
made in certain years, this is meant to represent
90 Shiloh Winery 2018 Shor Barbera (Judean
Hills). This deep-garnet wine offers aromas
of cassis and vanilla. It feels pleasant on the palate,
The appeal is as much about feel as flavor, with the the best barrels of the vintage. Juicy, robust and with sleek tannins and flavors of black cherry, dark
palate showing polish on this well-balanced wine. oak-driven in style, it shows stone fruit, pineapple plum, aniseed and crème brûlée that coalesce on a
Editors’ Choice. —S.S. and crème brûlée flavors, with nutmeg and vanilla softly spicy finish. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.55% Price: $18 accents. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $34
abv: 14.5% Price: $75

90 Primarius 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The

aromas offer notes of tangerine peel, fresh
strawberry and forest floor. Somewhat fuller styled 90 Rowen Wine Co. 2017 Red (Sonoma County).
This is a brawny, likable blend led by 60% 90 Shiloh Winery 2018 Shor Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Judean Hills). Bright cherry to the
flavors follow, a bit ponderous in the middle but Cabernet Sauvignon, with 22% Malbec, 15% Syrah eye, this wine has a bouquet of blackberry and ani-
coming back together and delivering on flavor. A and 3% Viognier. Earthy hints of sage and cedar seed. It is juicy at first sip before yielding to mellow
peppermint note lingers on the finish. —S.S. help balance and complement the dark-fruit over- tannins and flavors of strawberry, dark cherry, milk
abv: 12.9% Price: $19 tones that show powerful concentration. —V.B. chocolate, nettle and juniper. The soft finish offers a
abv: 14.5% Price: $55 pleasing note of salted butter. Royal Wine Corpora-
tion. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $34

90 Quinta da Raza 2020 Grande Escolha

Alvarinho-Trajadura (Vinho Verde). With a
majority of Alvarinho, this is a finely focused wine,
crisp while also having a ripe, rounded character. 90 San Simeon 2018 Estate Reserve Chardonnay
(Monterey). Soft aromas of peach blossom,
Its spice and mineral edge give texture and balance
to the bright fruitiness. Drink now. Free Run Wine
Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
apple, butter and vanilla are rounded and volup-
tuous on the nose of this bottling. The palate’s rich-
ness and ripeness are cut by a salty edge, combining
90 Shiloh Winery 2017 Legend Fiddler (Judean
Hills). Black cherry in color, this wine has
aromas of fruits of the wood and bramble. It feels
abv: 12.5% Price: $17 baked peach and peanut-brittle flavors with a flash put together on the palate, with taut tannins and
of citrus on the finish. —M.K. flavors of cranberry, pomegranate, buttered toast,
abv: 14.9% Price: $25 vanilla and marjoram. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-
tion. —M.D.
abv: 15% Price: $37

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

90 Shiloh Winery 2017 Legend Honi (Judean
Hills). Deep ruby in the glass, this wine has 90 Sonoma-Cutrer 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Juicy layers of citrus
a nose of blackberry and lavender. It offers a nice
combination of fruit and spice flavors including
cherry, cassis, licorice, clove and menthol. Assertive
and strawberry highlight a supple, expressive and
dry palate. It is a fresh and joyfully appealing wine
to sip. —V.B.
90 Tamarack 2018 Cabernet Franc (Columbia
Valley). Raspberry and coffee aromas are in
the lead, followed by a licorice accent. The palate
tannins dissolve into a cooling finish. Kosher. Royal abv: 11.9% Price: $25 brings weight and volume, while remaining light on
Wine Corporation. —M.D. its feet. —S.S.
abv: 15% Price: $37 abv: 14.1% Price: $30

90 Talamonti 2019 Aternum (Trebbiano

d’Abruzzo). About one third of this Trebbi-
ano sees time in French oak, with the rest in stain-
less steel, yielding a full-bodied mix of honeycomb,

90 Silverado 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau-

vignon (Napa Valley). With small amounts
lemon cookie, chamomile and warm spice tones. It’s
textural and waxy in feel, yet properly perked up by
of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc included,
this elegant red shows graceful layers of plum, black
cherry and currant built around a soft, supple mid-
bright acidity. For those looking for a richer white,
this fits the bill. Panebianco. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $27
90 Truffle Hunter 2017 Leda (Barolo). Menthol,
underbrush and new leather aromas lead
the way along with a whiff of smoke. On the linear,
palate. Approachable and youthful, it’s a wine to already approachable palate, lithe, fine-grained tan-
enjoy in the near term. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. nins accompany crushed raspberry and star anise
abv: 14.3% Price: $60 before an almost salty close. Drink through 2027.
Quintessential Wines. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $45

90 Talbott 2018 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate

Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Aromas of dried cherry, sagebrush, baked berry and

90 Silverado 2017 Solo Cabernet Sauvignon

(Stags Leap District). This is a 100% vari-
etal wine that was aged 18 months in French oak,
loamy earth show on the nose of this bottling from
the historic vineyard. Dark berry and black plum
flavors emerge on the sip, where licorice and nut-
47% of it new. Cedar, soy and oak prevail on the meg add layers to the bold wine. —M.K.
rich, full-bodied palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $125
abv: 14.6% Price: $42
90 Vite Colte 2017 Essenze del Comune di Barolo
(Barolo). Underbrush, black-skinned berry
and spice aromas waft out of the glass. The tightly
wound palate offers sour cherry, star anise and
black pepper alongside close-grained tannins. Drink
2024–2033. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $60

WINEMAG.COM | 133
BUYINGGUIDE

90 Waterbrook 2019 Reserve Chardonnay

(Columbia Valley). Aromas of butter, corn
on the cob and toast are followed by well-balanced,
89 Château La Roberterie 2017 Primus (Bor-
deaux Supérieur). Produced from old-vine
Merlot, this wood-aged wine is rich in tannins and
creamy fruit flavors. Toasty notes linger on the fin-
ish. —S.S.
abv: 13.16% Price: $18
black plum-skin flavors. The bold structure and
powerful concentration suggest it needs to age fur-
ther. Drink from 2022. Château 1590 LLC. —R.V.
88 Kris 2020 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Aro-
mas of chamomile, hazelnut and a hint of
honey greet the nose. The aromas carry on to light,
abv: 14.5% Price: $30 rounded palate along with ripe apricot before a bit-
ter almond close. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2020 Whole

Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-
ley). Fermented with clusters intact, this is a pep- 89 Girasole 2020 Rosé (Mendocino County).
This inviting and nicely fruity wine made
pery, herbal and quite lively style of rosé. Flavors
circle around strawberry leaves and white straw-
berry. With ample breathing time, it fleshes out
with organic Pinot Noir and Zinfandel grapes over-
flows with watermelon and cherry flavors on a
medium body. It’s more smooth than tangy, and well
88 Upshot 2018 Red (Sonoma County). This
likable red combines a majority of Zinfan-
del, Merlot and Malbec with smaller amounts of
through the middle. —P.G. balanced for an enjoyable, fruity expression. —J.G. Petit Verdot and Riesling. Together, they make for a
abv: 13.2% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $15 smooth, crowd-pleasing wine that is juicy in mud-
dled cherries and cranberry and a heady perfume of
brambly wood. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $19

89 A to Z 2018 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Blueberry,

blackberry, mashed cherry, baking spices
and peppery tannins are all in the mix. The wine
88 Flat Top Hills 2020 Rosé (California). A cop-
per color, rather full body and ample meaty,
spicy flavors accompany plummy notes in this sub-
will benefit from further bottle age as all the ele-
ments need more time to completely mesh. Drink
2022–2026. —P.G.
stantial wine. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $14 87 French Blue 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Bor-
deaux Blanc). This is a ripe style of Sauvi-
gnon Blanc, softly textured and fresh. With apple
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and pear fruitiness and light acidity, it is balanced
and ready to drink. C. Mondavi and Family. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

84 Carlos Creek 2019 Aurora Brianna Brut (Min-

nesota). An intense nose combines a white
grape-juice tone with floral accents. The palate is
dry despite the sweet scent, showing green grape
skins, tart green apple, white strawberry and grape- 91 Ryder Estate 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Coast). Chiseled stone and struck match aro-
90 Castle Rock 2019 Pinot Noir (Monterey
County). There’s a hefty amount of raw meat
funk on the nose of this bottling, which also exhib-
fruit. This is very foamy, with a mild finish. —F.A. mas make for a savory entry to the nose of this bot- its aromas of baked cherry, star anise and carda-
abv: 11.5% Price: $35 tling, which also shows guava and pineapple. It’s full mom. Toasted oak flavors lead the palate through the
and flavorful on the palate, where pear and Mak- roasted cherry, dried meat and hickory spice flavors.
rut lime-leaf flavors prove both rich and tart. Best Best Buy. —M.K.
BEST BUYS Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $14
abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 13 Celsius 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 90 Geyser Peak 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This firm-textured wine has

92 Quinta do Portal 2019 Mural Reserva (Douro).

Still young, this ripe and densely fruity wine
is set for some fine aging. With its structured black
ough). There’s an appealing herbaceous-
ness to the nose of this wine, with aromas of pea
shoots and grass that sit comfortably beside the
a wonderful, classic nose of mint, black currants
and black cherries followed by a full body and lush
mouthfeel. It feels balanced by fine-grained tannins
fruits that are striated with minerality and cut by citrus and guava fruit. They flow into flavors on the and good fruit acidity that adds freshness. Best Buy.
juicy acidity, it is dense and has a vibrant texture. palate, with acidity that is lifted but in check. The —J.G.
Drink from 2022. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Wine Group. Best Buy. —C.P. abv: 14.3% Price: $14
abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

91 Parducci 2019 Small Lot Petite Sirah (Men-

docino County). This rich, full-bodied wine 90 Aveleda 2020 Alvarinho (Minho). Alvarinho
at its ripe and creamy best, this is bright
90 Gnarly Head 2019 Chardonnay (California).
Crushed stone, golden apple and apricot
aromas kick off the nose on this widely available
wraps dense, deep blueberry and cocoa flavors in a with apple fruits that give the wine freshness. bottling. There’s a clean freshness to the palate,
thick blanket of soft tannins that coats the mouth The mineral texture adds a touch of steeliness and where chalky sea-shell flavors are lifted by lime pith
and helps extend the saturated fruit flavors on the complexity to a white that is very ready to drink. and riper red-apple elements on the finish. Best
finish. Best from 2024. Best Buy. —J.G. Aveleda Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

WINEMAG.COM | 135
BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

90 Grounded Wine Co. 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(California). Lifted and flinty, this crisp
white is layered in flavors of white peach and pom-
90 Kirkland Signature 2019 Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Columbia Valley). The nose offers
appealing aromas of raspberry, black currant and
90 Noble Vines 2020 515 Rosé (Central Coast).
There’s a bright bubblegum and cotton-
candy combo that kicks off the nose on this bottling,
elo, with lasting freshness. It’s a great value and cranberry jam, along with plenty of spice accents. but a hint of white ash adds a more serious streak.
delivers tremendous sophistication. Best Buy. —V.B. Full-bodied, supple black-currant flavors follow. It Orange blossom and ripe nectarine flavors show on
abv: 13.5% Price: $15 brings a lot of appeal to the pure fruit flavors at a the sip, bound together by a stony, chalky frame.
remarkable price. Best Buy. —S.S. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

90 Grounded Wine Co. 2020 Space Age Rosé

(Central Coast). A lovely shade of pink, this
rosé booms on the nose with strawberry and rasp-
berry-sorbet aromas that are cut by a citrusy edge.
The acidity is bold on the palate, slicing through the 90 Marqués de la Concordia 2018 Lagunilla Cri-
anza (Rioja). This crianza feels flush while
90 Ruggeri & C. 2020 Argeo Rosé (Prosecco).
This light-hearted, savory sparkler has del-
icate, inviting aromas of green apple, red berry and
ripe stone-fruit and cherry flavors, as tangerine pith displaying agility. Earthy berry and cherry aromas tropical fruit. Dry and crisp, the delightful palate
provides a counterpoint. Best Buy. —M.K. are spicy and show a note of tobacco. Flavors of dark offers crushed pomegranate, pear and citrus along-
abv: 13% Price: $15 plum and berry fruits are backed by a hint of café side tangy acidity and a foaming mousse. WinesU.
mocha. The wine keeps its form across a dry and Best Buy. —K.O.
steady finish. United Cellars, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $15
abv: 13.5% Price: $14

90 Grounded Wine Co. 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon

(California). Offering outstanding value, this
wine contains nearly one quarter of Merlot, helping
to soften and broaden the palate. Cherry candy, clove
and black pepper adorn a balanced texture comple- 90 Matchbook 2019 Red Gravel Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon (Dunnigan Hills). This
90 Ryder Estate 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé (Central
Coast). Ground up gravel and soil aromas
meet with berry fruits on the earthy nose of this
mented by dried herb and cedar, finishing dry and full-bodied and moderately tannic wine is well- bottling. It’s somewhat smoky on the palate, where
immensely approachable. Best Buy. —V.B. packed with ripe blackberries and blueberries on a strawberry, sea salt and light oak flavors make for a
abv: 14.1% Price: $15 velvety, mouthcoating texture. Good concentration savory style. Best Buy. —M.K.
and ripeness bring a warm, rich impression to the abv: 13% Price: $15
palate. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $15

136 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

90 Sierra Cantabria 2020 Rosado (Rioja). More

white than pink, this traditional blend 88 J. Portugal Ramos 2020 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). This is a tasty, deliciously fresh
of 55% white Viura with red Garnacha and Tem-
pranillo smells flowery and lightly honeyed, with
minerally notes. A medium-bodied palate delivers
90 Wakefield 2019 Promised Land Cabernet
Sauvignon (South Australia). This wine
offers fleshy red fruit, gentle baking spice and earthy
wine. Bright and lively green fruits show well and
yield a refreshing sip that is ready to drink now.
Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V.
modest heft alongside flavors of waxy apple and cit- herbs. The medium- to full-bodied palate is equally abv: 12% Price: $11
rus. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. soft and supple. The fruit remains bright and juicy
abv: 13% Price: $14 while the tannins are structured and textural. Taub
Family Selections. Best Buy. —C.P.
abv: 14% Price: $13

90 Tabor 2017 Mt. Tabor Shiraz (Galilee). This

wine features aromas of cassis, wildflow-
88 Oak Grove 2019 Family Reserve Petite Sirah
(California). Black cherry and blackberry
flavors burst from this medium-bodied wine, giving
ers and black pepper. It is soft at first sip and then
mellow tannins slowly build amid flavors of black
currant, strawberry, thyme and lavender. A pleasing
89 Talamonti 2020 Rosé (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo).
Bright aromas of strawberry and pomegran-
ate are dotted with zesty accents of blood orange and
it plenty of fruit to accompany mild tannins and a
fresh, jammy feel. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $9
note of milk chocolate appears on the finish. Kosher. limestone in this brisk, tasty rosato. The medium-
Royal Wine Corporation. Best Buy. —M.D. bodied palate strikes a fine balance between tangy
abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and fruity, with a gentle, creamy texture lingering
on the close. Panebianco. Best Buy. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Scotto Family Cellars 2020 Reserve Mohr Fry

Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). This fruity,

90 Underwood 2019 Pinot Noir (Oregon).

Grapes for this humble Pinot are sourced
smooth and medium-bodied wine is scented with
honeydew melon and celery. Those tones lead to a
from all over the state. Such diversity is unheard of
in a budget wine, as is aging in 15% new French oak,
also part of the process. Pretty cherry and brambly
88 Concha y Toro 2019 Casillero del Diablo
Reserva Carmenère (Central Valley). Spicy,
minty green notes are a big part of this Carmenère’s
soft palate sensation of ripe melon, with touches of
butter and vanilla. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $13
blackberry fruit shines most of all, with an elegant blackberry and black plum aromas. A full and solid
transparency. It’s a light and almost delicate wine, palate is round and generous. Mint and blackberry
but offers sensational value and plenty of flavor. flavors blend with peppery notes that spice up the
Best Buy. —P.G. finish. Fetzer Vineyards. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

WINEMAG.COM | 137
BUYINGGUIDE

BEST BUYS BEST BUYS SPIRITS

88 SeaGlass 2020 Rosé (Monterey County).

Tart berry aromas kick off the nose of this 87 Nola Grace 2020 Dry Rosé (California). Very
smooth and quite fruity, this soft-textured
96 Holmes Cay Guyana Uitvlugt 2003 Single
Cask Rum (Guyana; Windyside Spirits,
Irvington, NY). A particularly plush and delicious
bottling. The palate explodes with energetic acid- wine features raspberry and plum flavors, low acid- pour, this is a single-cask rum distilled at Demerara
ity, boosting all of the strawberry flavors through a ity and pretty good depth. Best Buy. —J.G. Distillers in 2003, aged two years in Guyana, then
tightly wound texture. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $12 16 more in the UK, and bottled in 2021 at barrel
abv: 13% Price: $12 proof. Savory baking spices lead the nose, while the
palate combines concentrated brown sugar, maple
and vanilla. Flashes of milk chocolate, dark fruit and
warming, gingery spice grace the finish.
abv: 51% Price: $159

88 Talamonti 2020 Trebì (Trebbiano

d’Abruzzo). Delicate aromas of citrus, pome
86 Kirkland Signature 2019 Malbec (Mendoza).
Berry and black plum aromas come across
with a light roasted overtone, like campfire embers.
fruit and candied blossoms grace the nose of this
light-bodied white. It’s zesty and brisk on the pal-
ate, with a hint of yellow plum rounding things out.
A tight and drawing palate offers flavors of wild
berry fruits, red plum, beet juice and green herbs.
DC Flynt MW Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
95 Holmes Cay Fiji 2004 Single Cask Rum (Fiji;
Windyside Spirits, Irvington, NY). Almond
and apricot aromas entice on the nose. This cask-
This is an easy-to-sip Trebbiano at a value price. abv: 14% Price: $7 strength rum sizzles with alcohol heat, but balance
Panebianco. Best Buy. —A.P. it with enough water and the reward is comforting
abv: 12% Price: $13 butterscotch and stone fruit flavors, with a lingering
flurry of clove.
abv: 58% Price: $159

85 Misiones de Rengo 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(Central Valley). Aromas of tropical fruits
and melon carry the straightforward nose. A mix-

87 Kirkland Signature 2020 Pinot Grigio (Cali-

fornia). This light-bodied wine pours out
aromas of banana and tropical flowers followed by
ture of citrus, melon and waxy apple flavors finish
brisk and easy. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $9
91 Martini & Rossi Fiero (Italy; Bacardi, Miami,
FL). Made with a blend of white wines and
botanicals including sweet Spanish oranges, this
fairly crisp and slightly buttery flavors on a smooth, aperitif spirit has a bright orange-red hue and a
easy texture. Best Buy. —J.G. candied grapefruit aroma. The palate is juicy and
abv: 12% Price: $13/3 L moderately sweet, mixing orange-peel and grape-
fruit-peel bitterness, with a sweeter berry hint on
the finish.
abv: 15% Price: $18

138 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 an apt companion to both summer barbecues and
SPIRITS delicate fowl dishes in the fall or winter. Fruit of the RHÔNE VALLEY
Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $25 WHITE WINES
CONDRIEU
89 Domaine Maby 2019 Libiamo (Tavel). Bril-
liantly sunset-hued in the glass, this is
a big, warming dry rosé made from equal propor-
tions of Cinsault and Grenache Blanc. Vinified and
matured 15 months in new demi-muid barrels, it
94 Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin 2019 Les
Eguets (Condrieu). This flamboyant white
announces itself with heady aromas of apricot, hon-
offers blackberry and black-plum flavors swathed eysuckle and charred vanilla. Decadently creamy, it’s
with accents of smoke, char and toasted espresso a silky, mouth-drenching sip that finishes on notes
beans. This bold, spicy sip is likely to please red- of crème caramel and tangerine zest. It’s drinking
wine devotees and stand up to even the heartiest of beautifully in youth but should develop more hon-

90 Loch Fyll Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;

Gaelic Water, East Rutherford, NJ). Look for
a topaz hue and mild vanilla and toasted grain aro-
meals year round. DB Wine Selection. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $39
eyed, marzipan notes as it matures through 2030
and likely further. Taub Family Selections. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
mas. The silky, light palate echoes that toasted grain
note, layering it with hints of cocoa and malt. Adding 89 L’Âme du Terroir 2020 Tavel. Deep pink in
color, this solidly structured rosé highlights
abv: 14.5% Price: $100

water coaxes out a bit of mouthwatering cinnamon

spice.
abv: 43% Price: $19
juicy, fresh strawberry and red-cherry flavors of
Grenache along with accents of Cinsault, Clairette,
Syrah and Picpoul. It’s richly concentrated but bal-
94 Jean-Luc Colombo 2018 Amour de Dieu (Con-
drieu). Condrieu is typically an aromatic
wine but this honeysuckle-scented sip stuns with
anced by hits of peppery spice and a chalky, salty its piercing tangerine, apricot and lychee exuber-
mineral finish. At peak now–2023. Fruit of the ance. Fermented in stainless steel and matured 10
Vines, Inc. —A.I. months on its lees in oak (15% new), it’s a spicy,
abv: 14% Price: $NA cream-textured wine that’s irresistible young
but should continue to gain complexity through

89 Les Vignerons de Tavel 2020 Acantalys

(Tavel). A delicate dusting of sun-dried
thyme and wild mint extends from nose to finish in
2030 and longer. Taub Family Selections. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
this richly concentrated, dry rosé. Bright pink in the
glass, the bold Grenache-dominant sip highlights
juicy red-plum and raspberry flavors along with
a grip of bitter tannins on the finish. Structured
93 E. Guigal 2019 Condrieu. Notes of candied
grapefruit peel, lilac and apricot perfume
this bright, sunny Viognier. While fermented and
enough to accompany even meaty fare year-round, matured in one-third new oak, it balances smoky,
it should hold nicely through 2023. Fruit of the spicy, vanilla-cream richness well against pristine

89 Il Tramonto Limoncello (Italy; Prestige Bev-

erage Group, Mendota Heights, MN). This
is a distinctly herbaceous take on limoncello. Mild
Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $21
tangerine and white-peach flavors, with an invigo-
rating lift of tangerine acidity on the finish. Deli-
cious young, the wine should gain honeyed nuances
lemon verbena aromas lead into a light-bodied
palate laced with lime peel, pine and tarragon.
Best Buy.
89 Les Vignerons du Castelas 2020 Respelido
(Tavel). Whiffs of charred thyme and wild
sage mingle into crisp red plum and strawberry sor-
through 2030. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 15% Price: $68

abv: 30% Price: $20 bet on the nose and palate of this electric-pink, dry
rosé. Full bodied and structured by delicate tannins, SAINT-JOSEPH
it’s a stately expression of Tavel that balances red-
BEER fruit flavors and savory, stony undertones. Williams
Corner Wine. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $20
93 Graeme & Julie Bott 2018 Saint-Joseph.
Swirls of orange cream and honeycomb
introduce this blend of 70% Roussanne and 30%
Marsanne sourced from granite soils. Matured nine

88 Château de Manissy 2020 Trinité (Tavel).

The nose is sharply lifted on this deep-
pink rosé sourced from organically grown Grenache
months in French oak, it’s a rounded, silken sip
packed with piercing apricot flavor, finishing on a
soft, chalky streak. It’s delicious young but should
(50%), Syrah (30%) and Clairette (20%). Full hold well through 2026 at least. Banville Wine Mer-
bodied and peachy on the palate, it’s a juicy, fresh- chants. —A.I.
fruited sip marked by a tangy cut-stone finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $19
92 Cave de Tain 2018 Grand Classique (Saint-
Joseph). Crisp white peach and lemon fla-

95 Westbound & Down/Bierstadt Lager Chicago

Peaks Kölsch (Kölsch; Westbound & Down,
CO). Crisp and slightly fruity, with a sweet finish, this
88 Les Vignerons de Tavel & Lirac 2020 Les
Lauzeraies (Tavel). Fragrant red plum and
cherry cordial introduce this exuberantly fruity yet
vors are accented by judicious hints of toast and
hazelnut cream in this bright, silk-textured varietal
Marsanne. Medium bodied and lifted by a spray of
collaboration pours a pale golden yellow. Refreshing salty, mineral-laden rosé. A deep, dusty pink in hue, crushed granite, this finessed dry white is drinking
and thirst quenching, it is a particular delight on hot, the full-bodied wine finishes with puckering blood- particularly well now but should hold through 2027.
humid days when only something light will do the orange acidity and a delicate ruffle of bitter herbs and Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
trick. It is a well-appointed ale that does a lot with tannins. It’s ready now but should drink well in any abv: 13% Price: $NA
simple ingredients. season through 2023. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 5% Price: $12/16oz 4 pack abv: 14.5% Price: $17

WINEMAG.COM | 139
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Cave de Tain 2018 Terre d’Ivoire Selection
Parcellaire (Saint-Joseph). Yellow apple
and apricot notes are scintillating in this fresh,
90 Cave de Tain 2019 Nobles Rives (Crozes-
Hermitage). While full bodied and luscious
in texture, this varietal Marsanne offsets plush
improve through 2025 at least. Hand Picked Selec-
tions. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
fruit-focused Marsanne. Dry and moderately full- notes of white peach and Mirabelle plum against a
bodied in style, it’s a supple white that expands on
the palate in swirls of citrus and stone-fruit flavor.
Marked by a long, stony finish, the wine is at peak
zesty mineral spine and crisp tangerine acidity. Dry
and pristinely fruity, it’s an appealing, elegant wine
that should drink at peak through 2024. Total Wine
91 Jean-Luc Colombo 2019 La Belle de Mai
(Saint-Péray). Fresh yellow apples and pears
are dusted with hints of tangerine zest, allspice
now through 2025. Hand Picked Selections. Edi- & More. —A.I. and honey in this plump, tea-tinged blend of 60%
tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Roussanne and 40% Marsanne. Fermented and
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA matured in oak barrels (10% new) it’s a cream-

92 Ferraton Père et Fils 2018 Les Oliviers (Saint-

Joseph). A whisper of caramel winds its
90 Cave de Tain 2018 Grand Classique (Crozes-
Hermitage). Smoky, woody notes of toasted
barrel and charred vanilla accent juicy tangerine
textured white edged by twists of bitter walnut skin
and orange-peel spice as well as lingering oak tan-
nins. While heady in youth, it should meld nicely
way through layers of white peach, pear and apple and yellow-apple flavors in this robust dry white. through 2029. Taub Family Selections. —A.I.
in this succulent 50/50 blend of Marsanne and It’s a richer, more flamboyant expression of Crozes- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
Roussanne. Dry yet juicy in fruit profile, it finishes Hermitage than the producer’s pure-fruited Nobles
on lingering notes of smoke and toasted hazelnut.
Ready now, it should drink well through 2028. Sera
Wine Imports. —A.I.
Rives but offers breadth and power that should
stand up to hearty pork or fowl dishes well through
2026. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I.
90 Maison Denuzière 2018 J. Denuzière (Saint-
Péray). Crisp yellow plum and grapefruit
flavors are anchored by a smoky, earthen undertow
abv: 13% Price: $87 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA in this moderately full-bodied blend of Marsanne
and Rousssanne. Matured 12 months in stainless

CROZES-HERMITAGE 90 Maison Denuzière 2018 J. Denuzière (Crozes-

Hermitage). Tropical notes of pineapple
and mango are accented by lashes of cashew and
steel, it’s a pure-fruited, thirst-quenching dry white
with broad appeal. At peak now–2025. Boutique
Wine Collection. —A.I.

92 E. Guigal 2018 Crozes-Hermitage. Composed

of 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne
matured 12 months in stainless steel and seasoned
crushed granite in this dry, satiny blend of Mar-
sanne and Roussanne. It’s an ample, juicy wine
packed with youthful, sun-kissed fruit but balanced
abv: 13% Price: $27

oak, this pear-scented dry white offers ripe grape- neatly by soft tangerine acidity and a delicate grip of PROVENCE
fruit and yellow-apple flavors with a steely mineral tea tannins on the finish. At peak now–2024. Bou-
spine. Medium bodied but voluminous in texture, tique Wine Collection. —A.I. ROSÉS
it’s a dry, elegant white that lingers on a honeycomb abv: 13% Price: $20
finish. At peak now through 2026, the wine can COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE
hold longer still. Vintus LLC. —A.I.
SAINT-PÉRAY
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
92 Château la Coste 2020 Grand Vin Rosé (Cote-
aux d’Aix-en-Provence). Old-vine Grenache,

91 Delas Frères 2019 Les Launes (Crozes-

Hermitage). Notes of smoke and toasted
walnuts meld into pert white peach and grapefruit
92 Cave de Tain 2018 Fleur de Roc Selection
Parcellaire (Saint-Péray). A blend of 94%
Marsanne and 6% Roussanne, this full-bodied,
aged in wood, goes into this rich, densely textured
wine. It has impressive concentration, balancing
fruit ripeness with a fresh streak. The aftertaste
in this plump blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% dry white highlights Marsanne’s voluptuous char- brings out spice and juiciness. Organic. Skurnik
Roussanne. Soft, almost creamy, in texture yet acter accented by sparks of Roussanne’s green- Wines, Inc. —R.V.
anchored by a smoky, earthen spine, this dry white floral verve. Matured less than seven months with abv: 13.5% Price: $45
is approachable young but should drink at peak only a small proportions in new oak, it’s a more
through 2026 and hold further. Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. —A.I.
abv: 14% Price: $27
restrained, fruit-focused expression of Saint-Péray
than the producer’s lavish Grand Classique bottling.
Refreshingly mineral, the wine should drink at peak
92 Château Vignelaure 2020 Rosé (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page
117. Editors’ Choice.
through 2025. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $22

91 Domaine du Colombier 2019 Crozes-

Hermitage. Invigorating whiffs of freshly
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Cellier d’Eguilles 2020 Sieur d’Eguilles Rosé

grated wasabi and fresh basil introduce this
uniquely spicy Roussanne. Dry and full bodied in
style, it offers zesty grapefruit and Asian pear fla-
92 Ferraton Père et Fils 2018 Le Mialan (Saint-
Péray). A varietal Marsanne grown on lime-
stone and granite soils, this tangerine-kissed white
(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a
densely fruity wine, rich in raspberry flavors and
plenty of crisp, balancing acidity. The wine is tangy,
vors anchored by crisp mineral tones and a twist of juxtaposes rich, creamy swirls of vanilla and apri- bright with orange zest and packed with fruitiness
hazelnut on the finish. It’s delicious now but should cot with a bristling mineral freshness. The mouth- at the end. Drink now. W. Direct. —R.V.
drink at peak through 2026. Cape Classics. —A.I. drenching, juicy wine finishes on a flurry of white abv: 13% Price: $27
abv: 13.5% Price: $33 blossoms and just a hint of wood tannins. Best

91 Ferraton Père et Fils 2018 La Matiniere

(Crozes-Hermitage). Twists of oak, dill and
now–2028. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34 91 Château Beaulieu 2020 Cuvée Alexandre
Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Strong
minerality from volcanic soil shows in this tightly
smoke meld into juicy yellow apple and pear in this
medium-bodied varietal Marsanne. Dry in style yet
honeyed and pleasantly waxy, it’s a thirst-quench-
91 Cave de Tain 2018 Grand Classique (Saint-
Péray). Notes of hazelnut biscotti and toast
accent ripe, rich apple and grapefruit flavors in
textured wine. Along with tanginess, the wine has
intensity, spice, red fruits that are still develop-
ing and the possibilty for some aging. Drink from
ing white lifted by tangerine acidity. The wine is this Marsanne-Roussanne blend sourced from late 2021. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’
ready now but should drink at peak through 2025. limestone-clay and granite soils. It’s a lusciously Choice. —R.V.
Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. textured dry white but maintains invigorating min- abv: 12.5% Price: $25
abv: 13.5% Price: $29 eral freshness. The finish is framed by fine, feathery
wood tannins. Delicious already, the wine should
91 Château la Coste 2020 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-
en-Provence). The estate wine from La

140 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 ®
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Coste, this is richly endowed with ripe strawberry
fruits touched by caramel. From selected parcels,
the wine is likely to improve over the next few
90 Domaine de Valdition 2020 Vallon des
Anges Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).
This wine is soft and ripe, with peppery Grenache
and great fruitiness. Drink from late 2021. Terlato
Wines International. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $26
months, so drink from late 2021. Organic. Skurnik and contrasting red-berry and citrus fruits. The rich
Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
texture is open and generous. Drink now. Organic.
Kupela Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $16
91 Domaine des Diables 2020 L’Hydropathe
Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). The
name means water-hater, presumably because wine

91 Hecht & Bannier 2020 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-

en-Provence). This delicate, perfumed wine
is balanced, ripe with warm red fruits and a touch 90 Domaine des Oullières 2020 OH! Rosé
(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This blend of
is better for the drinker. This richly aromatic wine
demands attention and fruity drinking. With a crisp
aftertaste, it is a young wine that will be at its best
of caramel. Lightness and lively crispness offset the Grenache and Syrah is ripe, bright and worthy of an from late 2021. Planet Wine. —R.V.
rich fruitiness. Drink now. Organic. Frederick Wild- exclamation point. It offers red-currant freshness abv: 13% Price: $32
man & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and plenty of lively acidity. The wine could age a
abv: 12.5% Price: $20 little and will be better from late 2021. Wine Gems
Distribution. —R.V. 91 Famille Sumeire 2020 Elie Sumeire Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Named

91 Les Quatre Tours 2020 Classique Rosé (Cote-

aux d’Aix-en-Provence). This pale wine,
abv: 12.5% Price: $37 after the family patriarch, this wine comes from
selected vineyards close to the Sainte-Victoire
almost white in color, is softly textured. Ripe straw-
berry flavors contrast with the zesty acidity and
CÔTES DE PROVENCE mountain. It is textured, with a peppery character
that will soon soften into the ripe red fruits. Drink
lemon freshness. A blend of four grapes including SAINTE-VICTOIRE the wine from late 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V.
Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine is lightly textured, abv: 13% Price: $20
touched by pepper and ready to drink. VOS Selec-
tions. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $20
93 Mas de Cadenet 2018 Grande Garde Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Almost
three years old, this wine shows the aging poten- 90 Château des Ferrages 2020 Mon Plaisir Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Bright,
tial of top Provence rosé. It is a rich, open blend of fresh and tangy, this wine is packed with fruit. A

90 Château Calissanne 2020 Calisson de Calis-

sanne Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).
Perfumed and lightly herbal, this blend includes a
Grenache and Syrah, perfumed and with light wood
aging. Spice and a rounded texture offer intensity
and concentration. Drink the wine now. Organic.
bright touch of white Vermentino add to the fresh-
ness. With its lively acidity and zesty aftertaste, the
wine is ready to drink. Sera Wine Imports. —R.V.
touch of white Rolle to lighten the color. It bursts David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25
with vibrant red-currant fruits that are lightly tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $40
tured at the end. Drink now. JP Bourgeois. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $30
92 Château de Pourcieux 2020 Sainte-Victoire
Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire).
90 Château Grand Boise 2020 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). From vineyards
at the foot of the Sainte-Victoire mountain, this

90 Château Calissanne 2020 Clos Victoire Rosé

(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Partly aged in
wood, this wine has an extra dimension of richness
Vineyards close to Sainte-Victoire mountain have
produced a rich, ripely textured 50/50 Syrah and
Grenache blend. It is juicy, with great acidity and
intense wine also preserves a light touch of fruiti-
ness. Crisp citrus and red currants abound in this
wine that is ready to drink. Organic. Soilair Selec-
that adds to the red-fruit flavors and tangy citrus some aging possibility. Drink now or wait until tion. —R.V.
edge. The wine is ripe, ready to age for a few more 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $27
months. Drink from late 2021. JP Bourgeois. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25
abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 Château Gassier 2020 Le Pas de Moine Rosé 90 Domaine des Diables 2020 Bon Bon Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Ini-

90 Château Saint-Hilaire 2020 Rosé (Coteaux

d’Aix-en-Provence). The 30% Syrah in this
ripe blend gives it texture as well as layers of acid-
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). The
name of this wine recalls the path that monks fol-
lowed to the heights of Sainte-Victoire. Rich tex-
tially herbal, this wine then reveals raspberry fruits
that are freshened by orange-zest flavors. From
vineyards at the foot of Sainte-Victoire moun-
ity. Rich strawberry flavors are cut with tangy citrus ture and density come from the vineyard and the tain, the wine has an appealing texture and layers
and an edge of minerality. Drink now or wait until ripe grapes. This concentrated wine will be ready of perfumed acidity. Drink from late 2021. Planet
late 2021. NakedWines.com. —R.V. from late 2021. Organic. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Wine. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $23 Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30
abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Château Vignelaure 2020 La Source Châ-

teau Vignelaure Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-
Provence). In true Bordelais fashion, this is the sec- 92 Mas de Cadenet 2020 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). The seventh
90 Domaine Houchart 2020 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). From vines on
the lower slopes of Mont Sainte-Victoire, this
ond wine of this estate, a nod to the fact that the generation of the Negrel family at this estate has estate’s principal wine is a ripe, full-bodied blend
vineyard was created by a producer from Bordeaux. produced a ripe and generous wine with red-berry with Syrah and Grenache. It has a dense texture,
Dense and rich, the wine is powered by caramel and fruits and refreshing acidity. The wine comes from with rich fruits, touches of pepper and the begin-
ripe strawberry fruits, with a firm edge from Syrah the cru vineyards of Sainte-Victoire, helping give ning of freshness at the end. Drink from late 2021.
and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Drink the extra depth. Drink from late 2021. Organic. David David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
wine now. Organic. MacArthur Beverages. —R.V. Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA
abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $24

90 Commanderie de la Bargemone 2020 Rosé

(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Rich in spice 92 Mathilde Chapoutier 2020 Grand Ferrage
Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire).
90 Domaine Terre de Mistral 2020 Rosalie Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). This
wine is rich, full of red fruits cut with grapefruit and
and red-currant fruits, the wine is fresh and crisp. This is the first of two Provence wines produced by lemon freshness. With a good proportion of Syrah,
With its good acidity and tangy backdrop, the wine the Chapoutier family of the northern Rhône region. the blend balances texture and ripeness. It is still a
is just now ready to drink. Organic. Hand Picked Rich and well balanced, the dense wine highlights little young, so drink from late 2021. Z Wine Gallery
Selections. —R.V. ripe fruits, poised between an attractive texture Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $19

142 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

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BANDOL 91 Château Vannières 2020 Rosé (Bandol). This

richly structured rosé is packed with red
fruits, cut with grapefruit, citrus and hints of nut-
87 Château de Rhodes 2020 White (Gaillac).
This immediately attractive wine is domi-
nated by the local grape Loin de l’Oeil. It is crisp

93 Château Vannières 2019 La Patience de Van-

nières Rosé (Bandol). Fermented and aged in
wood, this wine is dominated by spice and toasti-
tiness. The wine is ripe, full in the mouth, well bal-
anced and ready to drink. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit
Imports. —R.V.
with apple and white stone fruits cut with zesty
acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Paris Wine Com-
pany. —R.V.
ness. Fruits support the richness, giving a touch of abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $21
freshness to this full, vanilla-flavored wine. Drink
now. H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $61 91 Domaine le Galantin 2020 Le Galantin Rosé
(Bandol). It’s no surprise that this rich rosé
from Bandol is 50% Mourvèdre. That grape gives
CÔTES DU TARN

93 Domaine de la Bégude 2020 L’Irréductible

Rosé (Bandol). A rosé that can be aged, this
brings out richness, density and ripe red fruits.
the wine density, an opulent, spice and perfume
character and aging potential. The wine will be at
its best from late 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V.
89 Domaine de Borie Vieille 2020 Cuvée Con-
fidences Mauzac (Côtes du Tarn). From the
Gaillac region, a native-vine hotspot, this wine
With its texture, acidity and concentration, the abv: 13.5% Price: $26 shows the aromatic, spicy character of the local
wine has light salinity as well as flavors from the Mauzac grape. Fresh apples add to the ripe feel of
wild herbs of the region. It is ready to drink but will
be much better from 2022. Organic. Kysela Père et
Fils. —R.V.
90 Château Val d’Arenc 2020 Rosé (Bandol).
A rounded, spicy rosé, this is rich in warm
red fruits. Its perfumed character is balanced by
the wine, giving a full character and a mineral edge
in the aftertaste. Drink now. Calvert Woodley Fine
Wines & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $49 flavors of the wild herbs around the vineyard. The abv: 12.5% Price: $12
wine could be aged for a few months into 2022,

93 Domaines Ott 2020 Château Romassan Rosé

(Bandol). This structured, textured wine
offers perfumes and concentrated fruits. Spice and
although it is ready to drink now. Organic. Aliane
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29
88 Domaine D’en Ségur 2020 Cuvée Mad-
eleine Chardonnay (Côtes du Tarn). Aged
in wood for nine months, this wine has good bal-
rich red-currant flavors dominate the crisp wine. ance between richness and a cool poise. Bring-
With its acidity and developing texture, this wine
will probably be best from 2022. Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. —R.V.
90 Domaine de la Bégude 2020 Rosé (Ban-
dol). Darker in color than some rosés from
the region, this nevertheless has the right fresh-
ing yellow fruits and kiwi together, the perfumed
wine is likely to age further. Drink from 2022. Bird
Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55 ness and lift. Bright fruit flavors are balanced with abv: 13% Price: $16
grapefruit freshness and spice, with an attractively

92 Domaine Dupuy de Lôme 2020 Rosé (Ban-

dol). Produced in a vineyard that contains
many old vines, this wine is richly structured, per-
perfumed aftertaste. Drink now. Organic. Kysela
Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $39
86 Domaine D’en Ségur 2020 Sauvignon Blanc
(Côtes du Tarn). This wine is ripe, with a
texture that hints at minerality. Herbal flavors are
fumed with Mourvèdre and rich in tannins and a balanced by the ripe white stone fruits and warmth.
dense texture. Fresh citrus flavors use the yellow
fruits and strawberry bite for balance. Drink this
rich wine from late 2021. Organic. Aquitaine Wine
90 Domaine Vigneret 2020 Rosé (Bandol).
This producer with vines in Côtes de
Provence and Bandol has crafted a rich, full-bodied
It is ready to drink. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $12

Company. —R.V. wine. Juicy red-currant flavor is underlined by a

abv: 13.5% Price: $80 tangy texture and slightly herbal aftertaste. Drink CÔTES DE GASCOGNE
now. Bandol Wines Inc. —R.V.

92 Domaine la Suffrène 2020 Rosé (Bandol).

More than half of this blend is Mourvè-
abv: 14% Price: $24
89 Domaine de Laxé 2020 Tradition Blanc Sec
(Côtes de Gascogne). This ripe, fruity wine
dre, giving perfumed spice and a structure that
will soften as the wine matures. Rich and full
in the mouth, it has a texture that is opening.
90 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2020 Cuvée Mar-
cel Rosé (Bandol). Beautifully perfumed
Mourvèdre gives this blend richness and a ripe, red-
veers easily between citrus and herbal flavors and
fresh pineapple richness. It’s an attractive, refresh-
ing wine that is ready to drink. Vintage ’59 Imports.
Wait to drink the wine until late 2021. Bandol berry character. A little young and with a tight tex- Best Buy. —R.V.
Wines Inc. —R.V. ture, the wine needs a few months. Drink from late abv: 12% Price: $13
abv: 13.5% Price: $27 2022. Winebow. —R.V.

92 Hecht & Bannier 2020 Rosé (Bandol).

Mourvèdre is at the back of this richly tex-
abv: 13% Price: $25
89 Domaine Tariquet 2020 Premières Grives
Gros Manseng (Côtes de Gascogne). This
medium-sweet wine is deliciously perfumed, with a
tured wine. Spice, pepper and light tannins create a SOUTHWEST FRANCE fine line of acidity. Touches of honey and ripe apri-
fine setting for the perfumed red-berry and citrus cot give a fruity, textured character. Drink this ripe
fruits. Drink this food-friendly wine from late 2021. WHITE WINES wine now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $20
abv: 13% Price: $28 GAILLAC

91 Château de la Noblesse 2020 Noblesse Oblige

Rosé (Bandol). The pale color of this ripe, 93 Domaine Gayrard 2019 Loin de l’Oeil (Gail-
lac). Made from Loin de l’Oeil, the domi-
89 Villa Dria 2020 Jardin Secret Gros Manseng
(Côtes de Gascogne). Put Gros Manseng on
the taste radar. This semisweet wine has a delicious
full-bodied wine is deceptive. With the spice and nant white grape in Gaillac, this has produced a per- balance of acidity, crisp lemon and spicy honey. The
perfumes prominent, it has rich red-berry fruits fumed, stylish wine. With touches of green plums wine is poised, light and bright at the end. Drink
that are generously textured and full of youthful and a tangy and mineral texture, this is a ripe wine. now. Sevier Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
vigor. Let the wine settle and drink from late 2021. The edge of spice and acidity at the end complete a abv: 11% Price: $11
T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. wine that will be ready from 2022. Ideal Wine and
abv: 14% Price: $30 Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $26 88 Domaine de Joÿ 2020 L’Eclat (Côtes de Gas-
cogne). While this wine has a lightly herbal
character, it also offers plenty of ripe fruits that veer

144 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Revelation
The world’s finest wine cellar
exclusively at Wine Enthusiast.
Ask our experts which EuroCave
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BUYINGGUIDE
toward more tropical pineapple flavors. It is full of richness by attractive white stone fruits and hints wine should not be drunk before 2025. Organic.
the freshest fruit, zesty and crisp at the end. Drink of apricot. Drink the wine now. Sevier Imports LLC. Martine’s Wines. —R.V.
now. Canon de Colorado. Best Buy. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $140
abv: 11.5% Price: $11 abv: 11% Price: $10

88 Domaine de Pepouy 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(Côtes de Gascogne). From an estate that SOUTHWEST FRANCE
94 Château du Cèdre 2018 Le Cèdre (Cahors).
This powerful wine reflects the potential
density of ripe Malbec. With wood aging, the wine
has been in the same family since the 17th century, has developed concentrated, polished richness that
this wine is spicy. A touch of pepper contrasts with RED WINES contrasts with the intense tannins and concen-
the greener, herbal character and citrus fruitiness. trated black-plum fruits. Drink from 2024. Organic.
It is ready to drink. Lanterna Distributors Inc. Best BERGERAC Martine’s Wines. —R.V.
Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $73
abv: 11.5% Price: $12
91 Château Barbier Bellevue 2018 Grande Cuvée
(Bergerac). The wine bursts with fruitiness
94 Clos d’Audhuy 2019 Cahors. This wine has

88 Laballe 2020 Les Terres Basses (Côtes de

Gascogne). The eighth generation of the
Laudet family has produced a fresh wine, bright
and gentle, open tannins. Just ready to drink, it has
a fresh feel, plenty of acidity coming from the black-
berry fruits. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —R.V.
power, dark tannins, and spice from wood
aging. A concentrated Malbec, it reveals structure
first, fruit second. The wine demands considerable
with acidity and ripe crispness. It has great liveli- abv: 14% Price: $20 aging and should not be drunk before 2024. Ripe
ness, refreshing juiciness and a touch of peach to Wine Imports. —R.V.
contrast with citrus at the end. Drink now. Bacchus
Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. 91 Château la Besage 2018 Grande Cuvée
(Bergerac). A dense wine, rich in tannins
abv: 14.5% Price: $26

abv: 12% Price: $13 and generous black fruits, this is a selection of
the best fruit from the harvest. Its ripe structure 93 Château Famaey 2018 Cuvée X (Cahors).
This rich, new-wood-aged wine is firmly

87 Domaine du Rey 2020 4 Cépages (Côtes

de Gascogne). This ripe, fruity wine with
a warm, textured character is a blend from differ-
and touch of spice from the wood aging promise
further aging. Drink from 2023. Metropolis Wine
Merchants, Inc. —R.V.
structured and has great promise. The wood aging
just keeps to the right side of balance with the
blackberry fruits, leaving a juicy, ripe wine that will
ent parcels, giving delicious aromatic flavors. The abv: 14% Price: $20 age well. Drink from 2024. Kinson The Future of
wine is ready to drink. Matinicus Wines, LLC. Best Wine. —R.V.
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $12 87 Château la Besage 2017 Grande Cuvée
(Bergerac). This wine is dry, firm with more
abv: 14.5% Price: $29

87 Domaine du Rey 2020 Colombard-Sauvignon

Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). A classic Gas-
structure than fruit. It will soften, but is likely to
stay relatively firm even as it ages. Metropolis Wine
Merchants, Inc. —R.V.
93 Château la Caminade 2016 CY Commandery
(Cahors). Firm, still with plenty of tannins
in place, this wine has a way to go. Its generous
cony blend, this wine is packed with crisp, textured abv: 13.5% Price: $20 richness is impressive, with black fruits layered
fruitiness. It is lively, vibrant with acidity and a with tannins, and licorice flavors over black plums.
tangy aftertaste. Drink now. Matinicus Wines, LLC. Drink this full-bodied wine from 2022. Wine Tradi-
Best Buy. —R.V. CÔTES DU MARMANDAIS tions. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $24

87 Domaine Tariquet 2020 Chardonnay (Côtes

de Gascogne). A soft, gently ripe wine, this
92 Domaine de Beyssac 2016 Essentiel (Côtes
du Marmandais). Rich in tannins and with a
swathe of juicy black fruits, this five-year-old wine 93 Château Lamartine 2018 Expression
(Cahors). The top wine of this estate, this
has a smooth character that brings out yellow still bursts with energy. Good acidity balances the has mint perfumes from new-wood aging along with
fruits, balanced by zesty acidity. The wine is ready structure and fruit. While ready to drink, the wine black-plum and spice flavors. This powerful wine
to drink. Suitable for vegans. Frederick Wildman & could age further, at least until 2023. Organic. Bond comes from a single parcel. It is structured and
Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. deserves to age. Drink from 2024. T. Edward Wines
abv: 11.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $42

87 Domaine Tariquet 2020 Classic (Côtes de

Gascogne). A typical blend of Gascony, led
by Ugni blanc and Colombard, gives a wine that is as
91 Domaine de Beyssac 2019 Le Monde d’Après
Abouriou (Côtes du Marmandais). Abouriou
is one of the many grapes in southwest France that 93 Château Ponzac 2019 La Temperadou
(Cahors). Firmly structured and with dense
light as a feather, crisp and packed with citrus and had almost disappeared. Its revival comes thanks to tannins, this is a Malbec for aging. Dark tannins and
apple fruits. The wine is lively, bright and ready to the producers above the Garonne River in Marman- solid black fruits are developing together, under-
drink. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. dais. This wine is deeply colored, rich with firm tan- lined by juicy acidity and a dry core. The wine has
abv: 10.5% Price: $13 nins and a great structure. Packed with red fruits, it potential but needs more time. Wait until 2023.
has a vivid aftertaste. Drink from 2022. Organic and wUst Fine Wine Imports. —R.V.

87 Domaine Tariquet 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(Côtes de Gascogne). Tangy, zesty and with
biodynamic. Bond Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17
abv: 13.5% Price: $48

a strong herbal character, this cool-climate wine is

fresh. Citrus and green fruits show against the min- 93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2016 Triguedina Probus
(Cahors). With the name of this wine,
eral texture of this young, bright wine. Drink now. CAHORS seventh-generation producer Jean-Luc Baldès cel-
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ebrates the Roman emperor who allowed vines to
abv: 11.5% Price: $15
95 Château du Cèdre 2018 GC (Cahors). This
limited-production wine (the initials stand
be replanted in Cahors. The wine is massive, well
structured and rich. With tannins tamed and black-

87 Villa Dria 2020 Côte Sauvage Colombard-

Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne).
Bright, light and packed with fruit, this is an easy,
for Grand Cèdre) is dense with black fruits and tan-
nins. Backed by a solid, dry core, the wine is set for
a long haul. With its power and firm structure, the
currant fruits softened, it is just ready to drink.
Wait until 2022 for the best effect. Aufinity Imports
Co. —R.V.
fresh wine. Acidity and crisp citrus flavors are given abv: 14.5% Price: $85

146 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Now you can
open any wine
bottle to enjoy
for days.

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2-BOTTLE WINE
PRESERVER AND
CHILLER

800.356.8466
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Château Haut-Monplaisir 2019 L’Envie
(Cahors). Bottled without added sulfites,
this wine has a straight line of black fruits that
GAILLAC 92 Château Bellevue la Forêt 2018 Optimum
(Fronton). The top wine of the estate, this
is a fine showcase for the Négrette grape. It brings
vibrate with intensity and rich tannins. Still very
young and vivid, the wine will be rich, well defined
and ready to drink from 2023. Organic. Vintage ’59
93 Château Lastours 2018 Cuvée du Pigeonnier
(Gaillac). Named after a 15th-century dove-
cote on the estate, this wine is structured and dense
out spice, juicy black-currant fruits and enticing
perfumes. Produced from old vines, the wine has
concentration and good potential. Drink from 2023.
Imports. —R.V. with elegant tannins. It comes from old vines that La Ville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $35 give concentrated, dark berry fruits along with ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $28
acidity. Age this wine and drink from 2022. Baron

92 Château les Croisille 2018 Divin (Cahors).

Made from selected parcels on the estate,
this perfumed wine has a dense structure and ripe
Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $30 87 Domaine le Roc 2019 La Folle Noire d’Ambat
Négrette (Fronton). Named after a parcel of
the estate, this juicy wine offers red-fruit flavors
berry fruits. Freshness is assured by juicy acidity
from the black currant flavors. Tannins offer aging
potential. Drink this balanced wine from 2023. Gar-
92 Domaine Gayrard 2018 B de Braucol (Gaillac).
Full of wild berry and smoky fruit flavors,
this is a rich wine. Red berries and spice combine
with vegetal overtones. Folle Noire, an alternative
name for Négrette, gives a dark-colored wine with
soft tannins and attractive spice. Drink now. Lang-
ber and Co. —R.V. with serious tannins that promise aging. The wine don Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $28 has weight, concentration and will be ready to drink abv: 14% Price: $18
from 2023. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V.

92 Clos d’Audhuy 2019 La ô (Cahors). Richly

spicy with great fruits and concentra-
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
SAINT MONT
tion, this wine offers delicious tannins, spice and
blackberry flavors. The wine has a great future
and should not be drunk before 2023. Ripe Wine
90 Château de Rhodes 2019 Chevalier de
Rhodes (Gaillac). This smoothly textured,
ripe wine has bold black fruits and good concen- 92 Plaimont 2018 Château de la Roque (Saint
Mont). This firm and structured wine comes
Imports. —R.V. tration. A blend of four grapes, of which Duras is from one of the estates followed by the Plaimont
abv: 13% Price: $22 dominant, the wine has power as well as structure cooperative. With its dense tannins and rich struc-
to support the richness. Drink from 2022. Organic. ture, the wine has a perfumed character and smoky

92 Vignobles Pelvillain 2016 Chäteau de Cénac

Eulalie (Cahors). This powerful, dense wine
shows great richness that matches concentrated
Paris Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
berry flavors. It should age further, so wait to drink
until 2022. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $34
tannins that add a core of dryness to the ripeness.
The wine needs more time; drink from 2022. Conti-
nent Wines Inc. —R.V.
90 Domaine du Moulin 2017 Florentin Braucol
(Gaillac). Produced from low-yielding vines
on the estate’s best parcels, this wine Is almost 90 Plaimont 2019 Domaine La Vendôme (Saint
Mont). This ripe, full and smoothly tex-
abv: 14% Price: $35 mature. A rich structure of tannins and black fruits, tured wine is a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvi-
smoky and fruity, the wine is likely to be ready to gnon and Pinenc. Rich in juicy black currant and

91 Château Haut-Monplaisir 2019 Tradition

(Cahors). This rich wine emphasizes black
fruits and a fine line of firm tannins. It is packed
drink from 2022. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $30
berry fruits, the wine has a light structure and
tannins, deliciously integrated. It is ready to drink.
Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V.
with berries and black cherries, with a ripe, juicy
aftertaste. Drink the wine from 2023. Organic. Vin-
tage ’59 Imports. —R.V.
88 Château Lastours 2018 Tradition (Gaillac).
A blend of five grapes, this wine revels in
wild black-fruit flavors and a generous texture.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20

abv: 13% Price: $21 With a structure that could soften over the next MADIRAN
few months, the wine will be ready from late 2021.

91 Mas del Périé 2019 Les Acacias (Cahors). This

generous wine is ripe with juicy blackberry
fruits, with fine layers of acidity. Tannins support
Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $15 95 Vignobles Brumont 2014 Château Bouscassé
Vieilles Vignes (Madiran). Maturity comes
slowly with Tannat, but has been impressively
this structured wine that needs to age. Drink from
2023. Organic and biodynamic. Zev Rovine Selec-
tions. —R.V.
88 Vignereuse 2018 Croizade (Gaillac). Marine
Leys takes her terroir seriously and her
labels lightly. Ripe and juicy, this is a crisp wine,
achieved in this wine. It brings well-aged tannins
and fruit together in a balanced combination that
has concentration with elegance. The wine is just
abv: 12.5% Price: $35 with red fruits and light tannins that are imme- ready to drink although it will age for many more
diately attractive. Behind this fruity exterior, the years. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.

90 Château Famaey 2018 Prestige (Cahors).

The firm tannins of rich Malbec shine in
structure will allow the wine to age further. Drink
now or wait until 2022. Organic. Jenny and Fran-
abv: 13.5% Price: $85

this wine, which conveys a sense of power as well as

great concentration. With its density, layers of black
plum and impressive structure, this is a wine to age.
çois Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19 94 Vignobles Brumont 2012 Château Montus
Prestige (Madiran). Dark tannins still cir-
cle over this rich wine. With this dry core comes
Drink from 2023. Kinson The Future of Wine. —R.V. mature fruit and a solid structure. The wine, from
abv: 14.5% Price: $18 FRONTON the showcase estate of Madiran, is built for further
aging. Drink now possibly but for best effect wait

90 Jean-Luc Baldès 2018 Triguedina Petit Clos

(Cahors). This is a happy blend of Malbec
and Merlot, the Merlot softening the firm Malbec
93 Château Bellevue la Forêt 2019 Mavro
Négrette (Fronton). Négrette is the signa-
ture grape of Fronton and this wine with bold black
until 2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 15% Price: $95

so the wine develops relatively quickly. With a

rounded texture and black fruits, this attractive,
rich wine will be ready from 2022. Aufinity Imports
fruits and rich tannins makes a fine calling card.
Spice and dark textures promise considerable aging.
Drink this wine from 2024. La Ville Imports. —R.V.
93 Château Laffitte Teston 2017 Vieilles Vignes
(Madiran). This family-owned estate
has produced a dense, 100% Tannat that is just
Co. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 approaching its apogee. Fine tannins are accompa-
abv: 14.5% Price: $25 nied by juicy blackberry fruits and a texture that

148 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

is concentrated while also maintaining the wine’s months. Drink from 2022. Wine Traditions. Best by the wine’s concentration and final richness.
freshness. Drink from 2022. Wine Traditions. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. Drink now. OZ Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $16

93
abv: 14%
Château Peyros 2018 Vieilles Vignes (Madi-
ran). For full review see page 113.
Price: $23
PORTUGAL VINHO VERDE
WHITE WINES
91 Château Peyros 2018 Madiran. The estate 94 Anselmo Mendes 2018 Parcela Unica (Vinho
Verde). This producer broke the rule that
wine from this property in southern Madiran MINHO Vinho Verde should not be wood aged by launching
is a rich blend of Tannat and Cabernet Franc. Spice, wines like this. From a single parcel, the wine is rich
blackberry fruits and acidity are well integrated
into a ripe complexity. Drink the wine now. Baron
Francois Ltd. —R.V.
93 Quinta do Ameal 2017 Escolha (Minho). Aged
in wood for six months, this wine shows a
rich, elegant side of Loureiro and proof that it can
and smoothly textured, with spice and a dense char-
acter that will allow the wine to age. Grape2Glass.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17 handle wood aging. With its fine balance between abv: 13% Price: $40
crispness and more rounded richness, the wine

91 Vignobles Brumont 2016 Château Bouscassé

Réserve (Madiran). This new release from
Alain Brumont has richness, spice and attractive
is very fine; it’s ready to drink now. Now Wine
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $45
93 Anselmo Mendes 2020 Contacto Alvarinho
(Vinho Verde). Born and based in the
Minho Valley, the Alvarinho is the native grape for
wood-aging flavors. They go well with the succulent Anselmo Mendes. This wine, made with skin con-
black fruits, backdrop of tannins and final perfumed
acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Regal Wine
Imports Inc. —R.V.
90
abv: 12%
Aveleda 2020 Alvarinho (Minho). For full
review see page 135. Best Buy.
Price: $15
tact, brings out a rich, textured side to the grape. It
is ripe, dense and full of rich citrus flavors. Drink
from 2022. Grape2Glass. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 Château Laffitte Teston 2017 Reflet du Ter-

roir (Madiran). Big tannins mark this firm,
88 Quinta da Raza 2020 Alvarinho (Minho).
This ripe, creamed apple- and spice-fla-
vored wine comes from the southern part of Vinho 93 Anselmo Mendes 2019 Muros de Melgaço
(Vinho Verde). Out of what seems like the
dry wine. With rich black fruits, perfumed acidity Verde. Its freshness and crisp acidity are balanced tallest bottle in the world comes this ripe wood-
and a solid struture, the wine needs another few aged wine. The wood does reduce the crisp acidity

WINEMAG.COM | 149
BUYINGGUIDE
of Alvarinho but it flatters its riper side. Pineapple
and citrus flavors are in fine harmony with spice
and texture in this wine, now ready to drink. Grape-
2034. McCormick Wine Imports, LLC. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $120
89 Arzuaga 2018 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Oaky plum and cassis aromas are lightly
baked and plenty oaky. This crianza is densely
2Glass. —R.V. saturated, with a stewed character and dry tan-
abv: 13% Price: $35
94 Emilio Moro 2015 Malleolus de Sanchomar-
tin (Ribera del Duero). Heavily charred aro-
nins. Spicy oak, licorice and baked berry flavors
finish with mild heat and wood-spice notes. Drink

90 Quinta da Raza 2020 Grande Escolha

Alvarinho-Trajadura (Vinho Verde). For full
review see page 132. Editors’ Choice.
mas of wood smoke and campfire dominate a nose
with base-level berry fruit scents. Size and power
are plastered all over the palate of this woody, tan-
through 2024. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $33

abv: 12.5% Price: $17 nic warm-vintage Ribera, which tastes of smoky
blackberry and tobacco. A note of vanilla softens 88 Viña Vilano 2018 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Baked berry aromas lean towards raisin and

90 Quinta da Raza 2020 Dom Diogo Colheita

Seleccionada Arinto (Vinho Verde). This
full, fruity wine is ripe with pear and kiwi fla-
a hard-driving finish. Drink 2025–2045. Moro
Brothers. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $180
prune, while this wine feels saucy and tomatoey,
with raw acidity. Dried berry flavors suggest prune.
This crianza finishes with bold acidity and strong
vors. Spice and touches of pepper add complexity tannins. Misa Imports. —M.S.
to a wine that has fine concentration. Everything
is resolved at the end with a final burst of citrus 93 Cepa 21 2015 Malabrigo (Ribera del Duero).
In this wine, a dark but lucid color and ripe,
abv: 14.5% Price: $35

acidity. Drink now. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best

Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
muscular aromas of earthy black fruits and minty
oak lead to a palate with piping acidity and beating
tannins. Black-fruit flavors come with oaky vanilla
87 Conde D San Cristobal 2018 Crianza (Ribera
del Duero). Slightly stalky berry aromas on
this wine lead to a firm palate that pulls inward due
and chocolate notes. This ripe-year Tempranillo to dry tannins. Herbal plum and oak -pice flavors

89 Anselmo Mendes 2020 Pássaros Escolha

(Vinho Verde). A change of venue for
Anselmo Mendes, coming south across the moun-
remains oaky through a finish with tobacco and flo-
ral notes. Drink through 2040. Skurnik Wines, Inc.
Cellar Selection. —M.S.
lose steam before showing a hint of early oxidation.
The wine reverts to dry tannins on a finish with
notable oak. Torgar Group. —M.S.
tains from the Minho and into the Lima Valley, this abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $20
wine is a fine example of the Loureiro grape. With
its creamy character, perfumed fruitiness and lively
lemon aftertaste, the wine is finely balanced and
ready to drink. Grape2Glass. —R.V.
92 Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2015 Gran Tábula
(Ribera del Duero). Ripe, inky berry aromas
are closed, while this warm-year Tempranillo is full
87 Conde D San Cristobal 2015 Reserva Especial
(Ribera del Duero). In this wine, aromas of
vanilla, plum, tomato sauce and raw oak lead to a
abv: 12% Price: $16 and demanding on a palate with biting tannins and palate that’s fleshy but short on structure. Rasp-
serious oak. Spicy, savory oak flavors are dominant, berry and plum flavors are herbal and grassy, with

88 Anselmo Mendes 2020 Muros Antigos

Escolha (Vinho Verde). The three main
grapes of Vinho Verde, Alvarinho, Loureiro and
both drying and tannic. Drink 2025–2032. Las
Arribes LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $80
an oaky covering. Oak and heat push a narrow fin-
ish. Torgar Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $60
Avesso have been brought together into a wine that
expresses all the crisp fruitiness and mineral tex-
ture of the region. It’s a bright, lively wine that is
ready to drink. Grape2Glass. —R.V.
90 Balbas 2015 Ardal Reserva Selección Espe-
cial (Ribera del Duero). Dark in tint but lucid
at the edges, this oak-heavy reserva smells of barrel
RIOJA
abv: 12% Price: $15 smoke. An intense palate hits with rough tannins,
tasting of savory blackberry backed by potent oak. 92 Luis Cañas 2013 Gran Reserva (Rioja). A
smooth and steady nose on this wine offers

88
Buy.
J. Portugal Ramos 2020 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). For full review see page 137. Best
As coconut and vanilla notes take over, this wine
finishes with woody astringency. Drink through
2035. McCormick Wine Imports, LLC. —M.S.
round aromas of vanilla, cassis, blackberry and san-
dalwood. A friendly palate is full and easygoing,
with a helping shot of acidity. Dark plum, black-
abv: 12% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 berry and oak-spice flavors finish dry but not dry-
ing. Drink now–2025. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.

88 Wines & Winemakers 2019 Maria Papoila

Escolha (Vinho Verde). A ripe blend of Lou- 90 Protos 2018 Protos ’27 (Ribera del Duero).
Aromas of leathery plum, blackberry,
abv: 14.5% Price: $50

reiro and Alvarinho has produced a rich, tangy wine.

The mineral texture and tight acidity give the wine
freshness and a fine bite. Drink now. C & P Wines,
oak spice and dried earth set up a concentrated
but slightly rough and grating palate, with grav-
elly tannins. Oak is a big part of a flavor package
92 Marqués de Murrieta 2017 Reserva Finca Ygay
(Rioja). Lightly baked and leathery berry
aromas are subtle. This wine is racy and clipping on
LLC. —R.V. that includes wood spice and cinnamon along with the palate, with popping acidity. Spiced plum and
abv: 11.5% Price: $18 generic berry and plum. A savory finish is oaky and cherry flavors are backed by oaky vanilla prior to
spicy but also a touch hot and burning. Drink this a persistent finish with classic Rioja notes of oak,
Tempranillo named after the year that Protos was tomato and raw acid. Drink now–2030. Maisons
SPAIN founded through 2024. Monsieur Touton Selection Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S.
Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29
RIBERA DEL DUERO abv: 14.5% Price: $35

94 Balbas 2012 Alitus (Ribera del Duero). Ribera

del Duero in full and fine form is embodied 89 Alvides 2018 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Baked berry aromas come with prune and
92 Muga 2017 Reserva Unfiltered (Rioja). For
full review see page 119.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32
in this powerful blend of 75% Tempranillo, 20% raisin notes, while this crianza smells slightly
Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot from a really
good vintage. Spicy oak and saucy berry aromas are
earthy and intense. A fully extracted palate means
cooked and candied as a whole. A full palate is
blocky and drying due to firm tannins. Woody fla-
vors of plum, cassis and prune finish tight and
91 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Añares Reserva (Rioja).
For full review see page 123.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
tannins are palpable but they don’t dominate, leav- smacking, with rocky tannins holding steady. Drink
ing an open stage for blackberry, cassis, toasty oak,
coffee and nutmeg flavors to play out. Drink through
through 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35 91 Bodegas Riojanas 2017 Viña Albina Reserva
(Rioja). In this wine, fully ripe aromas of rai-

150 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

sin, cassis and baking spices reflect a hot and dry backed by a dry, grabby finish, with tomato and
year with low yields. A chunky palate feels bulky plum notes. Multiple U.S. importers. —M.S.
and blocky, while the wine stays the course with abv: 14.5% Price: $15
baked plum, raisin and savory flavors. Tannins con-
trol a drying finish with lasting oaky notes. Drink
through 2024. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. PRIORAT
abv: 13.5% Price: $24

91 Bodegas Riojanas 2013 Monte Real Gran

Reserva (Rioja). Composed aromas of earthy
92 Heredad Soliterra 2016 Priorat. Bold black-
plum and wild-berry aromas on this wine
are supported by hints of dried herbs and grainy
berry fruits and tobacco are mature. This gran oak. The wine feels tight and slightly raw. Zesty
reserva from a notoriously cold vintage is comfort- acidity lends tang and tension to red-berry and
able across the palate. Plum, blackberry, currant plum flavors. It is firm, minerally and juicy on a
and vanilla flavors are standard. The wine short- finish with dry tannins and a hint of vanilla. Drink
ens up on a finish that’s lightly oxidized at the end. through 2027. Vinaio Imports. —M.S.
Drink through 2024. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $19
abv: 14% Price: $47

90 Bodegas Olarra 2017 Reciente Reserva

(Rioja). For full review see page 128.
92 Perinet 2016 Merit (Priorat). Broad berry
and plum aromas are schisty in accordance
with Priorat norms. This blend of Garnacha, Cari-
abv: 14% Price: $28 gnan, Merlot and Syrah is bold and a touch fiery on
the palate. Loud berry and plum flavors finish with

90 Bodegas Riojanas 2018 Monte Real Crianza

(Rioja). A blackish-purple color and force-
ful oak that lends a chocolaty, tarry, smoky topping
steady power and complexity. Enjoy through 2025.
Tolosa Winery. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
to the nose open this bold but balanced crianza.
Blackberry, tobacco, black tea and oak flavors are
strong and heady. Prune and woodspice notes domi-
nate the finish. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S.
92 Torres 2016 Salmos (Priorat). Earthy dark-
berry aromas are a touch flat and full. This
Carignan-led blend displays chewy dry tannins on a
abv: 14% Price: $18 bold palate that leans towards the ripe side. Black-
berry, schisty graphite and herbal flavors finish

90 Marqués de la Concordia 2018 Lagunilla Cri-

anza (Rioja). For full review see page 131.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
steady, with touches of licorice and fennel. Drink
through 2026. Park Street Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $40

90 Ramirez de la Piscina 2013 Gran Reserva

(Rioja). Earthy berry aromas are a touch
spicy, with notes of violet, graphite and unabsorbed
90 Vicente Gandia 2016 Xibrana Crianza (Prio-
rat). Jammy currant and raspberry aromas
on this wine include a hint of schisty minerality.
oak. This wine feels full and chunky but not heavy The dry palate shows grainy oak and gravelly tan-
or overly extracted. Berry and plum flavors are nins. Oaky plum and berry flavors are slightly
ordinary and the wine finishes solid enough. Drink baked and herbal. The wine holds onto its woody
now–2025. Jorge Ordóñez Selections. —M.S. and spicy character through the finish. Vicente
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Gandia USA. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $24

89 Viña Olabarri 2018 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy

plum and berry aromas include a note of
cinnamon. While this crianza is fairly tannic, with PIEDMONT
high acidity, flavors of plum and berry fruits are
savory and satisfying. A firmly structured finish is BAROLO
dry and rubbing, especially after the fruit has faded.
Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $16 99 Ettore Germano 2016 Vignarionda (Barolo).
Enticing aromas of rose, iris, wild berry
and spice appear in this gorgeous red. Combining

88 Bodegas Riojanas 2013 Viña Albina Gran

Reserva (Rioja). Plum and cassis aromas are
distant and simple, and this wine feels more narrow
structure and finesse, the delicious palate deliv-
ers ripe raspberry, Marasca cherry, star anise and
pipe tobacco set against a backbone of firm, fine-
and acidic than expansive. Currant and red-plum grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably
flavors are a bit tart and backed by saltiness. This balanced while a tangy mineral note lingers on the
off-year gran reserva is linear on a finish that mostly finish. While it’s still quite young, it already shows
shows acidity. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. class, pedigree and excellent aging potential. Drink
abv: 13.5% Price: $45 2026–2046. Sussex Wine Merchants. Cellar Selec-
tion. —K.O.

88 Eguren Ugarte 2018 Crianza (Rioja). Prickly

berry and black-currant aromas on this
abv: 14% Price: $165

wine are minty, oaky and ever so slightly green. A

fresh and lively palate is dry and pinches. The wine
tastes of spicy, lightly herbal berry and plum fruit
98 Brovia 2017 Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia (Barolo).
Mesmerizing aromas of violet, rose, per-
fumed berry and dried aromatic herb mingle

WINEMAG.COM | 151
BUYINGGUIDE
together with a whiff of forest floor in this com- structure and finesse, the savory, full-bodied pal- berry aromas mingle with hints of forest floor and
pelling wine. Full-bodied, elegant and delicious, ate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, blood orange and vanilla. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, the
the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, licorice before an espresso finish. Firm, refined tan- delicious palate doles out raspberry compote, ripe
cranberry, licorice and tobacco framed in youthfully nins provide tight support. Drink 2025–2032. Vin- cherry, licorice and wild herb before closing on a
assertive but refined tannins. It closes on a tangy tus LLC. Cellar Selection. —K.O. salty note. Noble tannins provide firm support.
mineral note. Drink 2027–2037. Rosenthal Wine abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Drink 2027–2032. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’
Merchant. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
97 Sandrone 2017 Le Vigne (Barolo). Fragrant
and delicious, this gorgeous wine opens
abv: 14.5% Price: $58

98 Brovia 2017 Rocche di Castiglione (Barolo).

Camphor, star anise, tobacco and under-
brush are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this
with inviting aromas of rose, sandalwood, camphor
and perfumed berry alongside whiffs of truffle and
French oak. The full-bodied palate combines ele-
96 Luigi Vico 2017 Prapò (Barolo). Forest floor,
rose, new leather and woodland berry aro-
mas lead the way in this gorgeous red. Fermented in
stunning red. Full-bodied and elegantly structured, gance and structure, featuring ripe Morello cherry, concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts followed by
the savory palate doles out ripe Marasca cherry, ras- crushed raspberry, licorice and a dollop of vanilla aging in large Slavonian and French oak casks, it’s
berry compote, baking spice and licorice set against alongside firm, refined tannins. It’s already tempt- structured and delicious, offering strawberry com-
youthfully assertive, noble tannins. Give it time to ing but hold for more complexity. Drink 2024– pote, ripe Morello cherry, licorice and baking spice
fully develop. Drink 2027–2037. Rosenthal Wine 2032. Vintus LLC. —K.O. set against a backbone of firm, fine-grained tannins.
Merchant. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $155 Give it time to fully develop. Drink 2027–2037.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA North Berkeley Imports. —K.O.

98 Elvio Cogno 2015 Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva 96 Borgogno 2016 Fossati (Barolo). For full
review see page 104. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

(Barolo). This gorgeous wine opens with

aromas of pressed rose, camphor, new leather and
abv: 14.5% Price: $119
96 Marcarini 2016 Brunate (Barolo). For full
review see page 104. Cellar Selection.
ripe forest berry. Full-bodied and loaded with
finesse, the delicious, elegantly structured palate 96 Curto Marco 2017 Arborina (Barolo). Rose,
perfumed berry and fruitcake aromas are
abv: 14.5% Price: $105

features ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, tobacco

and licorice framed in firm, refined tannins. Drink
2023–2035. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O.
front and center along with whiffs of grilled por-
cini and menthol. Full-bodied and enveloping, the
delicious palate doles out fleshy black cherry, rasp-
96 Massolino 2017 Margheria Serralunga d’Alba
(Barolo). For full review see page 105.
abv: 14.5% Price: $114
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA berry jam, truffle and baking spice framed in firm,

97 Anselma Giacomo 2013 Vignarionda Riserva

(Barolo). Full-bodied and loaded with per-
velvety tannins. Drink 2025–2032. August Wine
Group. —K.O.
abv: 15% Price: $87
96 Massolino 2017 Parussi (Barolo). Blue
flower, ripe dark-skinned fruit, cedar and
forest floor aromas shape the nose. Delicious and
sonality, this classically crafted wine opens with firmly structured, the full-bodied palate also shows
aromas of forest floor, camphor, warm spice and
a whiff of pressed rose. Heroically structured and
incredibly savory, the compelling palate delivers
96 Ettore Germano 2017 Prapò (Barolo). For
full review see page 104. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
finesse, delivering juicy Morello cherry, crushed
raspberry and licorice alongside fine-grained,
enveloping tannins. Drink 2025–2032. Vineyard
cherry marinated in spirits, spiced cranberry, lico- Brands. —K.O.
rice and tobacco alongside a hint of truffle. Firm
tannins and vibrant acidity keep it balanced and 96 Famiglia Anselma 2016 del Comune di Mon-
forte (Barolo). For full review see page 104.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

energized. Drink 2023–2043. Weygandt-Metzler.

Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $52
96 Pio Cesare 2017 Ornato (Barolo). Rose, wild
herb, forest floor and woodland berry aro-
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
96 Figli Luigi Oddero 2017 Rocche Rivera
(Barolo). Forest floor, sun baked earth, new
mas come to the forefront along with a warm spice
accent. Structured and elegant, the full-bodied pal-

97 Cavallotto 2015 Vignolo Riserva (Barolo).

Aromas of leather, scorched earth, grilled
herb and camphor come to the forefront along with
leather and camphor aromas meld together in this
fantastic, full-bodied red. From an under-the-radar
producer that consistently makes superb wines,
ate features raspberry compote, vanilla, star anise
and crushed mint framed in tightly-knit, refined
tannins. An espresso note lingers on the close.
a whiff of hazelnut. Savory and full-bodied, the the savory, classically crafted palate features ripe Drink 2022–2032. Maisons Marques & Domaines
compelling palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, red cherry, crushed raspberry, tobacco and lico- USA. —K.O.
black licorice and baking spice set against youth- rice alongside a backbone of noble tannins while abv: 14.5% Price: $130
fully firm but refined tannins. Drink 2025–2035. a salty mineral note lingers on the finish. Drink
Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $130
2025–2032. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $132
95 Davide Fregonese 2017 Prapò (Barolo). Flo-
ral aromas of rose and violet mingle with
ripe red berry, truffle and leather in this perfumed

97 Elvio Cogno 2016 Ravera Bricco Pernice

(Barolo). This gorgeous red has enticing
aromas of rose, iris, woodland berry, camphor and 96 Fratelli Alessandria 2017 Gramolere
(Barolo). Forest floor, sandalwood, wild
red. Elegant and firmly structured, the linear palate
offers juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, star
anise and ground clove before a mineral finish evok-
truffle. Full-bodied and savory, the enveloping pal- rose and cedar aromas take shape in the glass. ing rust. Taut, polished tannins provide support.
ate doles out raspberry compote, licorice, baking Savory, structured and poised, the palate is still It’s less austere than in cooler years but will still
spice and tobacco alongside firm, refined tannins young and primary, delivering ripe Morello cherry, offers years of pleasure. Drink 2025–2032. Vias
and bright acidity. A minty note lingers on the close. spiced cranberry, licorice and ground clove set Imports. —K.O.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. against a backbone of firm, fine-grained tannins. abv: 14% Price: $79
abv: 14.5% Price: $139 Drink 2025–2037. North Berkeley Imports. Cellar

97 Sandrone 2017 Aleste (Barolo). Aromas

of menthol, pressed rose, wild berry and
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $85 95 Ettore Germano 2017 del Comune di Ser-
ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Aromas of under-
brush, crushed mint and new leather mingle with
grilled herb are front and center in this stunning
wine along with a whiff of forest floor. Combining 96 Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Bussia (Barolo).
Rose petal, crushed herb and woodland
a whiff of wild rose. The full-bodied, savory palate
shows poise and structure, delivering dried cherry,

152 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

orange zest, grilled porcini and licorice. It closes on raspberry, dark cherry and oak-driven spice along-
an almond note while taut, fine-grained tannins side firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2031.
offer support. Drink 2023–2029. Sussex Wine Mer- Vias Imports. —K.O.
chants. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $79
abv: 14.5% Price: $50

95 Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Castellero (Barolo).

Pressed rose, crushed mint, new leather
94 Figli Luigi Oddero 2015 Vignarionda (Barolo).
Aromas recalling French oak, underbrush,
violet and camphor take shape in the glass. Comb-
and wild berry aromas slowy take shape in the ing structure and finesse, the firm, full-bodied pal-
glass. Full-bodied and youthfully austere, the firmly ate delivers Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice
structured palate features ripe Marasca cherry, and oak-driven spice framed in tightly knit, fine-
strawberry compote and star anise alongside noble grained tannins. It’s still youthfully austere so give

(
tannins that need to time to unwind. Best 2027– it time. Drink 2027–2035. Rosenthal Wine Mer-
2032. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O. chant. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: NA Price: $157 ?^X]cb
FX]T 4]cWdbXPbc

95 Massolino 2017 Parafada (Barolo). Forest

floor, grilled herb, iris and camphor aro-
mas appear in the glass. Combining structure and
94 Giacomo Fenocchio 2017 Villero (Barolo). A
camphor aroma mingles with white pepper,
scorched earth and ripe dark-skinned berry in this
finesse, the firm palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, classically crafted Barolo. Full-bodied and savory, it
raspberry compote, baking spice and licorice along- shows elegance and tension, offering flavors of ripe
side tightly knit, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2025– Morello cherry, blood orange and licorice before a
2032. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. minty close. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins offer
abv: 14% Price: $NA austere support. Drink 2024–2029. Skurnik Wines,
Inc. —K.O.

95 Oddero 2017 Brunate (Barolo). Under-

brush, new leather and camphor aromas
abv: 14.5% Price: $62

mingle with pressed rose and a whiff of coconut.

Firm and full-bodied, the savory palate shows both
concentration and finesse, offering juicy Marasca
94
abv: 14%
La Spinona 2016 Söri Gepin (Barolo). For full
review see page 110.
Price: $84
cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco
set against close-grained, assertive tannins that
need time to unwind. Drink 2027–2037. Polaner
Selections. —K.O.
94 Michele Chiarlo 2017 Cannubi (Barolo). Aro-
mas of truffle, ripe black-skinned fruit and
leather lead the nose. On the savory, velvety palate,
abv: 14.5% Price: $120 enveloping, polished tannins accompany raspberry
jam, blood orange vanilla and licorce before closing

95 Ratti 2017 Rocche dell’Annunziata (Barolo).

For full review see page 107.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
on an earthy hint of salted game. Drink 2024–2032.
Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $NA

94 Brezza 2017 Sarmassa (Barolo). Firmly

structured, this opens with aromas of star
anise, leather, camphor and scorched forest floor.
94 Ratti 2017 Marcenasco (Barolo). For full
review see page 111.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
Full-bodied and still youthfully austere, the palate
offers Morello cherry, licorice and tobacco framed
in tightly wound, assertive tannins. It’s nervy and
needs time to fully develop to its full potential.
93 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 93 Cannubi
(Barolo). Leather, rose petal, woodland
berry and a whiff of forest floor take shape in the
2027–2037. Coeur Wine Co. —K.O. glass. Savory and poised, the lithe, linear palate
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA offers strawberry compote, blood orange and star
anise framed in taut, fine-grained tannins that

94 Ciabot Berton 2016 1961 (Barolo). Blue

flower, red-skinned berry and new leather
aromas lead the way. The elegantly structured pal-
sneak up on the firm, austere finish. Drink 2025–
2032. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $45 5aPVaP]c P]S UaTbW cWXb WPb R[PbbXR
ate delivers Marasca cherry, nutmeg and tobacco ePaXTcP[ Pa^\Pb ^U SPaZbZX]]TS QTaah
QPZX]V b_XRT P]S Q[dT U[^fTa >] cWT
alongside youthfully austere, fine-grained tannins
and bright acidity. Drink 2024–2036. Specialty
Cellars. —K.O.
93 Castello di Verduno 2017 Barolo. Woodland
berry, cedar and pressed rose form the
nose. Taut and medium-bodied, the linear palate
bPe^ah _P[PcT QaXVWc PRXSXch P]S b\^^cW
cP]]X]b PRR^\_P]h U[Pe^ab ^U <PaPbRP
RWTaah aPb_QTaah P]S fWXcT _T__Ta
abv: 14.5% Price: $53 features juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry and star 4]Y^h cWa^dVW !!"
anise alongside fine-grained tannins. It closes on an FX]T 4]cWdbXPbc
94 Cordero di Montezemolo 2017 Monfalletto
(Barolo). For full review see page 109.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
almost salty note. It’s already close to the start of
its ideal drinking window but still offers good mid-
term aging potential. Drink 2024–2029. Polaner
Selections. —K.O.
/\PaRWTbXX]RXbPfX]Tb
94 Davide Fregonese 2017 Cerretta (Barolo).
Woodland berry, underbrush, eucalyptus
abv: NA Price: $50

new leather aromas come to the forefront. The

savory palate is still tightly wound, offering crushed 93 Chionetti 2017 Parussi (Barolo). Aromas of
violet, scorched earth and leather come to

WINEMAG.COM | 153
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Chionetti 2017 Parussi (Barolo). Aromas of
violet, scorched earth and leather come to
the forefront. The savory, balanced palate offers
92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Ava-
lanche Fendant (Valais). This wine is straw
colored, with aromas of orange blossom, jasmine,
berry, and nutmeg lead to a silky-smooth finish.
Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $36
dried black cherry, clove and licorice alongside lemon-lime zest and roasted yellow pepper, with
fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2032. Vinifera
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $80
a whiff of petrol and tomato leaf. Bright on entry
and in the mouth, it is well balanced, with flavors
of orange pith, mango, yellow cherry and fresh oreg-
91 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine
Roots Humagne Rouge (Valais). Cherry red
in color, this wine offers aromas of vanilla, red
ano. The finish is pleasantly acidic and persistent. cherry, cherry pie, red raspberry and cinnamon.

93 Ciabot Berton 2016 del Comune di La Morra

(Barolo). Aromas of black-skinned berry,
underbrush and leather emerge from the glass. The
Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 12% Price: $25
Soft on entry, it has flavors of cherry, pomegranate,
cranberry and vanilla before the soft finish. Laine
Boswell Selections. —J.J.
savory, balanced palate features crushed Morello
cherry, star anise and ground pepper alongside firm, 92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Larix
Mélèze (Valais). This blend of Petite Arvine
abv: 13.5% Price: $27

polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2023–

2031. Specialty Cellars. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $43
and Humagne Blanche is aged in Larch pine bar-
rels. It offers aromas of honeydew melon, almond
blossom, mint and just a whiff of pine resin. In the
91 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2018 Avalanche
Pinot Noir (Valais). Cherry red in the glass,
this wine offers aromas of freshly ground black pep-
mouth there are flavors of lemon, caramelized pine- per, just-picked cherry and baking spices. It is well

93 Daniele Conterno 2015 Sette Anni Riserva

(Barolo). Classic varietal aromas of ripe
black-skinned berry, leather and underbrush lead
apple and mint. The wine is very smooth, with nice
acidity in the finish. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $42
balanced in the mouth, with flavors of bright red
cherry and cinnamon. Soft on entry, it has a solid
tannic backbone. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
the way. On the firm, savory palate, fine-grained abv: 13% Price: $28
tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, licorice
and nutmeg. Drink 2022–2032. Grape Juice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $160
92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Paien
Heida (Valais). This white has aromas of
lemongrass, lemon pith, apple blossom and tea-tree 90 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Dôle
Coteaux de Sierre (Valais). This cherry-red-
oil. It is well balanced, with flavors of vanilla, lemon colored wine is made with 85% Pinot Noir and 15%

93 Mauro Veglio 2017 Gattera (Barolo). Men-

thol, iris and French oak aromas come to the
forefront. On the palate, notes of vanilla and coffee
curd and green apple before the silky-smooth finish.
Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13.8% Price: $38
Gamay. Aromas suggest dark cherry, pomegranate
and graphite, with flavors of cherry, red raspberry
and pomegranate juice. The well-balanced wine has
bean accent a core of dried black cherry while firm, slightly grippy tannins and a bright finish. Laine
close-grained tannins provide tight support. Drink
2025–2032. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
91 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine
Roots Petite Arvine (Valais). Brilliant straw
colored in the glass, this offers aromas of apple
Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $24

93 Pio Cesare 2017 Barolo. Aromas of dark-

skinned berry, underbrush and oak-driven
pie, honeydew melon, almond blossom and a whiff
of mint. The wine has nice acidity in the mouth,
with flavors of lemon zest, pineapple and a touch
90 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Noir de
Noir Selection (Valais). This inky-purple
wine is comprised of 50% Gamaret, 30% Gal-
spice mingle with camphor. On the full-bodied of florality, with a zesty finish. Laine Boswell lota and 20% Pinot Noir. It has aromas of pome-
palate, notes of licorice and espresso accent a core Selections. —J.J. granate juice, black plum and black cherry. In the
of juicy black cherry before an almost salty close. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 mouth there are flavors of tart cherry preserves and
Firm, fine-grained tannins provide ample support. cranberry sauce. It is well balanced, with chewy
Drink 2022–2029. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $70
90 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine
Rootes Johannisberg (Valais). This straw-
colored wine has aromas of lemon pith, lemon blos-
tannins and a soft, pleasant finish. Laine Boswell
Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $42
som and freshly cut pineapple. In the mouth, flavors
recall vanilla, caramelized pineapple and peach. It is
SWITZERLAND well balanced, with a smooth finish. Laine Boswell GERMANY
Selections. —J.J.
WHITE WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $23 RIESLING TROCKEN

93 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2020 Coteaux

de Sierre Petite Arvine (Valais). This straw-
colored wine offers aromas of pineapple, honey-
90 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Johan-
nisberg (Valais). This golden-straw-colored
wine has aromas of laurel leaf, vanilla, lemon curd
96 Dr. Loosen 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Réserve Alte Reben Riesling GG (Mosel). For
full review see page 104. Editors’ Choice.
suckle, grapefruit pith and almond blossom. In the and lemon pith. Smooth on entry, it offers flavors of abv: 12.5% Price: $92
mouth it has flavors of caramelized pineapple, white lemon curd and lemon-meringue pie. The wine has
peach, apricot and guava. The mouthfeel is gener-
ous, with a burst of bright citrus in the finish. Laine
Boswell Selections. —J.J.
good weight on the palate, with a smooth burst of
acidity in the finish. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J.
abv: 13.3% Price: $26
95 Dr. Loosen 2014 Ürziger Würzgarten Réserve
Alte Reben Riesling GG (Mosel). Cut stone
and smoky mineral tones are spiced with tangs of
abv: 13.5% Price: $38 crushed white pepper and salt in this svelte, lime-
scented white. Sourced from 120-year-old vines
RED WINES
92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine
Roots Heida (Valais). Brilliant straw-col-
grown on rare red, volcanic soils, it’s deeply earthen
yet penetrating with lemon and tangerine flavors.
ored in the glass, this wine has aromas of lemon
pith, lemongrass, green apple and a whiff of euca-
lyptus. Flavors suggest lemon curd, apple blossom
92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine
Roots Symphonie Pinot Noir (Valais). Light
cherry red in color, this wine has aromas of cherry
Matured four years prior to release (two in barrel,
two in bottle), it expresses the depth of Riesling’s
savory side. Delicious now but should hold for at
and vanilla. The wine is well balanced, with a silky- pie, cinnamon and cloves. It is soft on entry and least a decade to come. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
smooth finish. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J. nicely balanced. Flavors of tart cherry, red rasp- abv: 12.5% Price: $92
abv: 13.5% Price: $36

154 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

92 Seebrich 2019 Roter Schiefer Riesling
Trocken (Rheinhessen). From nose to finish,
this is such a decadently peachy, pure-fruited dry
88 Karl Josef 2019 Piesporter Michelsberg Ries-
ling Spätlese (Mosel). Pristine white peach
and tangerine flavors abound in this fresh, fruity
wine packed with sun-drenched white peach, apri- medium-sweet Riesling. Light-bodied and briskly
cot and tangerine tones. Featherlight and backed by balanced in acidity, it’s an immediately approach-
spine-tingling acidity, it’s an invigorating Riesling able, easy-quaffing sip that lingers on a juicy squirt
with a long, intensely slaty finish. Delicious young of passion fruit. Best now–2023. Scoperta Import-
but should hold well through 2029. Winebow. Edi- ing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $12
abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Von Schleinitz 2019 Apollo Dry Riesling

(Mosel). Crushed basalt and graphite tones
87 Schlink Haus 2020 Riesling Spätlese (Nahe).
Soapy floral tones perfume flavors of pre-
served peach and white grapefruit in this vibrantly
mingle into zesty lime and grapefruit in this zippy, fresh, fruity Spätlese. Medium-sweet and forward
laser-edged Riesling. It’s dry in style but accented in style, it’s a juicy white wine backed by squirts
by hints of honey and saffron as well as a dramatic of tangerine acidity. Best consumed young. Wein
undertone of dusty, penetrating minerality. At peak Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
now–2025. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $12
abv: 12% Price: $26

90 Von Schleinitz 2019 Nitor Dry Riesling

(Mosel). Bristling aromas of quince and
87 St. Christopher 2020 Piesporter Goldtröp-
fchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Tropical
notes of pineapple and mango have a pleasantly
tangerine introduce this fresh fruited but bone-dry waxy, mineral edge in this juicy medium-sweet
Riesling. Light on its feet and concentrated with Riesling. Light as a feather yet concentrated with
pear and grapefruit flavors, it’s a zesty, angular flavors of preserved peach and apricot, it’s a sunny,
white structured by crisp lime acidity and under- fruit-focused white that shows best young. Wein
tones of steel and slate. Ready now but should Bauer Inc. —A.I.
hold well through 2026. Scoperta Importing abv: 7.5% Price: $14
Co. Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $26
RIESLING AUSLESE
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
96 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Son-
nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Smoky

94 Willi Haag 2019 Juffer Brauneberg Riesling

Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Intensely
ripe, fragrant white peach and honeydew are accen-
mineral tones and tart pineapple on the nose lead
to swirls of sun-drenched white peach and pink
grapefruit flavors in this show-stopping sweet Ries-
tuated by staccato beats of lime zest, honey and ling. Undulating and hedonistic yet piercing and
slate in this thrilling, zippy white. Medium-sweet pure, it’s an iconic expression of a truly fantastic
but not at all cloying on the palate, it’s a finely cut, vintage. With a finish that stretches out dramatic
penetrating Riesling with an endlessly steely finish. tangs of acidity, honey and struck slate, it’s a wine
Delicious young but should improve through 2035 that should gain complexity and depth for decades
and hold longer still. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. Editors’ to come. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
Choice. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $56/375 ml
abv: 8% Price: $NA

91 Karl Erbes 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling

Spätlese (Rheinhessen). River rocks and
96 Robert Weil 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries-
ling Auslese Grosse Lage (Rheingau). Tiny
in footprint yet sonorous and musical, this feath-
smoky mineral tones meld into zippy tangerine erlight sweet Riesling is filled to the brim with
and grapefruit in this deeply penetrating Spätlese. penetrating pineapple and mango flavors. It’s spry
Medium-sweet and delightfully piercing in style, and blindingly crystalline, anchored by sabre-like
it’s an intensely fruity sip held upright by a darting acidity and an endless struck-flint finish. Delicious
spine of lemon-lime acidity. It’s delightful in youth young but likely to maintain peak through 2035 and
and lingers long through a concentrated, honeyed hold much longer still. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’
finish but should drink beautifully well through Choice. —A.I.
2030, at least. Artisans & Vines. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $164/375 ml
abv: 8% Price: $30

91 Seebrich 2019 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling

Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Sourced from red
95 Dr. Loosen 2018 Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Salt-rimmed lime and
flint etch angularity into plush, luminous Mirabelle
slate and sandstone soils, this light-bodied but plum and lemon flavors in this medium-sweet Ries-
powerfully concentrated Spätlese highlights notes ling sourced from slopes of smoky, red slate soil. It’s
of Poire Williams, lime and lemon edged by seams decadently honeyed yet maintains perfect balance
of honey. A well-integrated medium-sweet wine, and pitch, piercing the palate with streaks of spine-
it finishes on a long, delicately earthen finish. Best tingling acidity and a lingering, smoky, spicy finish.
now–2028. Winebow. —A.I. Delicious already but powerful enough to improve
abv: 10% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 155
BUYINGGUIDE
through 2035 and hold longer still. Loosen Bros. Aszu. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ mas of honeysuckle, peach and acacia flower. In the
USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Choice. —J.J. mouth there are flavors of clover honey, pear and
abv: 8% Price: $64/375 ml abv: 11% Price: $160/500 ml baked sweet apples. Acidity is well balanced to the
amount of sweetness. Monsieur Touton Selection

95 Dr. Loosen 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries-

ling Auslese (Mosel). Profoundly ripe yet
angular and piercing, this gorgeous sweet-style
97 Disznókö 2005 Aszú Eszencia (Tokaji). Aro-
mas of citrus blossom, dried apricot and
fresh fig transfer to the palate, where notes of
Ltd. —J.J.
abv: 12% Price: $50/500 ml

Riesling exudes all the grace and power expected

from the blue slate Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Light on
its feet yet deeply, breathtakingly concentrated in
freshly brewed coffee and toffee round out the com-
plex flavor. This wine has lovely mouthfeel, with
roundness on the palate and just the right amount
96 Royal Tokaji 2016 5 Puttonyos Aszú Red
Label (Tokaji). For full review see page 105.
abv: 11.5% Price: $65/500 ml
white peach and pineapple flavors, it’s a decadent, of acidity to prevent this caramel-colored Eszencia
delicately smoky sip that’s likely to develop well
through 2035 and hold much longer still. Loosen
Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
from being too cloying. Monsieur Touton Selection
Ltd. —J.J.
abv: 7% Price: $120/375 ml
95 Disznókö 2012 Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji).
Straw-colored with gold reflections, this
wine offers aromas of apricot, peach and pear. In
abv: 9% Price: $64/375 ml the mouth, flavors include honeycomb, Bartlett pear

94 Fritz Haag 2019 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling

Auslese Goldkap Grosse Lage (Mosel). Sun-
97 Disznókö 2016 Aszú 6 Puttonyos (Tokaji).
This golden-colored Tokaji has aromas of
raw honey, apricot blossom, pear and baked apple
and canned peaches. It finishes with sweetness that
is balanced by the ample acidity. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —J.J.
kissed yellow peach and apricot marmalade brim tart. Silky smooth upon entry, it offers flavors of abv: 12% Price: $50/500 ml
this light-footed yet lusciously textured Auslese. baked apples, wildflower honey, canned pears and
Honeyed and sweet yet balanced by toe-tapping apricot. The acidity is nicely balanced so as not to
strikes of acidity and a sheen of smoky, salty min- be too cloyingly sweet. Monsieur Touton Selection ISRAEL
erality, it’s a penetrating wine to enjoy young for Ltd. —J.J.
its exuberant fruit or to wait till 2025 to further abv: 12.5% Price: $80/500 ml CABERNET SAUVIGNON
develop its mineral complexities. Loosen Bros. USA.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $42/375 ml 97 Royal Tokaji 2016 Betsek Single Vineyard 6
Puttonyos Aszú First Growth (Tokaji). This
Tokaji Aszu is golden in color, with ethereal aro-
94 Covenant Israel 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Israel). This inky, garnet-colored wine
has aromas of cassis, graphite and violet. It feels

94 Willi Haag 2019 Juffer Brauneberg Riesling

Auslese Grosse Lage (Mosel). While the nose
is subtle and stony, the palate of this laser-edged
mas of honeysuckle, acacia, fresh peach and canned
apricots. Flavors come to life in the mouth, with
honeycomb, pear and canned apricot. Well-bal-
well-made, with luscious tannins and flavors of
black cherry, black plum, clove, licorice and dark
chocolate that head into a spicy but bright fin-
Riesling shocks with deep, penetrating streaks of anced acidity is an excellent foil for the delightful ish. Drink now–2033. Kosher. Chaim LLC. Cellar
lime, lemon and grapefruit. Light as a feather yet sweetness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. Selection. —M.D.
powerful and piercing, it’s a richly honeyed, spine- abv: 10.5% Price: $135/500 ml abv: 14.8% Price: $90
tingling sweet wine that finishes on pure, crystal-
line notes of salt and steel. Delicious in youth but
likely to improve for decades to come. Leonard
Kreusch, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
97 Royal Tokaji 2016 Mézes Mály Single Vineyard
6 Puttonyos Aszú Great First Growth (Tokaji).
Aromas of white freesia, lanolin, honeysuckle and
92
Kosher.
Tabor 2016 Malkiya Cabernet Sauvignon
(Galilee). For full review see page 121.

abv: 7.5% Price: $NA beeswax prepares the palate for flavors of apri- abv: 14% Price: $60
cot, orange zest and white-peach juice. Made from

HUNGARY
grapes grown on the Mezes Maly single vineyard,
this has heft on the palate and pleasant mouthfeel.
The finish offers fruit sweetness with balanced
91 Flam 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Galilee). Deep cherry-red in the glass, this
wine has a nose of cassis and roasted fennel bulb.
TOKAJI acidity. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. It has a viscous, almost syrupy quality, with fla-
abv: 10.5% Price: $200/500 ml vors of black cherry, dark plum, licorice and mint.

99 Disznókö 2007 Eszencia (Tokaji). Mahogany

colored in the glass, this Eszencia draws
you in with ethereal aromas of acacia honey, bees- 97 Royal Tokaji 2016 Nyulászó Single Vineyard
6 Puttonyos Aszú First Growth (Tokaji). Aro-
Silky tannins fade out as a lingering violet note
takes hold of the after-palate. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
wax, caramelized pineapple upside-down cake, mas of white flowers, jasmine and orange zest lead abv: 15% Price: $60
English toffee and apricot jam. These heady aromas the way for flavors of apricot conserves, orange pith
transfer seamlessly onto the palate. In the mouth
the wine has delightful heft and voluptuous mouth-
feel. It’s silky smooth and creamy, with just the right
and white-peach juice on the palate. This delightful
single-vineyard wine from the Nyulaszo vineyard
offers a delicate balance of sweetness and acidity,
91 Segal’s 2017 Petit Unfiltered Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Galilee). Deep black cherry to the
eye, this wine features a bouquet of blackberry
amount of acidity to counteract the intense sweet- with a persistent finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. and almond blossom. Pleasing on the palate, it
ness. Drink through 2035. Monsieur Touton Selec- abv: 10.5% Price: $135/500 ml offers silky tannins along with flavors of cran-
tion Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.J. berry, black currant, coffee bean and thyme that
abv: 1% Price: $500/375 ml
96 Disznókö 2015 Aszú 6 Puttonyos (Tokaji).
Golden amber in the glass, this wine has
culminate in a bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.

98 Disznókö 2015 Kapi Vineyard Aszú 6 Put-

tunyos (Tokaji). This gold-flecked, amber-
aromas of wildflower honey, honeycomb and ripe
peach. It is velvety smooth in the mouth, with fla-
abv: 13.5% Price: $45

colored Hungarian sweet wine is made from 100%

Furmint grapes harvested from the Kapi Vineyard.
It has aromas of ripe peach, honeysuckle, white
vors of freshly baked tarte Tatin, peach and canned
pear halves. Good acidity balances well with the
sweetness. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —J.J.
91 Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Judean Hills). For full review see
page 127.
flowers and pear. In the mouth it is velvety smooth, abv: 11% Price: $80/500 ml abv: 15% Price: $45
with flavors of apricot preserves, honeycomb, peach
and pear. Luscious sweetness is offset by bracing
acidity, making this an elegant example of a Tokaji 96 Disznókö 2013 Aszú 5 Puttonyos (Tokaji).
This Tokaji is dark amber in color, with aro- 91 Tabor 2016 Limited Edition I/II.000 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Galilee). With aromas of black-

156 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

berry and anise, this wine is dark ruby to the eye. and summer farm stand. The good mix of fruit and tures a quick splash of Seville orange. Royal Wine
Well-integrated flavors of cherry, pomegranate, savory flavors conveys black cherry, dark plum, car- Corporation. —M.D.
licorice, baking spices and milk chocolate are set amel, and herbes du Provence. Plush tannins linger abv: 15% Price: $35
into lightly grippy tannins that peel away to reveal into a slightly salty finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Cor-
a lasting, cocoa-tinged finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
poration. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $55 90 Recanati 2019 Syrah (Galilee). Aromas of
dark plums and violets lead to flavors of
cranberry, pomegranate, cherry and Mediterranean

90 Alexander 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Galilee). Deep ruby to the eye, this
92
Kosher.
Shiloh Winery 2017 Secret Reserve Shiraz
(Judean Hills). For full review see page 121.
herbs. Smooth in the mouth, this wine has silky
tannins and a final note of orange zest. Kosher. Palm
Bay International. —M.D.
wine has a nose of black cherry, violet and iodine. abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
The flavor profile is comprised of blackberry, blue-
berry, anise and spearmint. It is well weighted on
the palate, with tannins that start light and increase
in power at the cherry-cola-infused finish. Kosher.
91 Binyamina 2016 The Chosen Ruby Syrah
(Galilee). Dark garnet in the glass, this
wine has aromas of cherry pie with a violet floral
90 Segal’s 2018 Whole Cluster Syrah (Judean
Hills). Bright red-violet in color, this wine
has a fruit-forward nose of cassis and dark plum. It
Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. lift. It is bright at first sip, followed by a network is surprisingly bright in the mouth, with flavors of
abv: 13.5% Price: $72 of assertive tannins. Flavors of black currant, cranberry, pomegranate, strawberry and brambles.
pomegranate, dark chocolate, sage and lavender Slightly grippy tannins fade into an orange-laced

90 Or Haganuz 2016 Namura Single Vineyard

Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali-
lee). Deep black cherry to the eye, this wine has a
wind down to a juicy finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $45
finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $42

nose of black currant and roasted red pepper. Fla-

vors of cassis, black plum and dark chocolate are
joined by strong notes of anise and menthol that 91 Carmel 2016 Single Vineyard Kayoumi Vine-
yard Shiraz (Galilee). Dark violet-red to the
90 Tabor 2017 Mt. Tabor Shiraz (Galilee). For
full review see page 137. Kosher. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
may be a bit too cool for some tastes. Chewy tan- eye, this wine has a bouquet of blackberry and
nins slowly dissolve into an anisette-laced finish.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
aniseed. Flavors of cassis, black cherry, vanilla
and rose petal spread across the palate, backed by
a framework of smooth tannins. The finish fea-
90 Tulip Winery 2018 Reserve Syrah (Galilee).
Dark ruby in color, this wine has a nose of
black plum with a touch of green bell pepper. It is
soft on the palate, with laid-back tannins and fla-

90
132.
Shiloh Winery 2018 Shor Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Judean Hills). For full review see page
vors of cranberry, Bing cherry, dark chocolate and a

abv: 14.5% Price: $34

89
Om... Yum...
Barkan 2017 Winemakers’ Choice Caber-
net Sauvignon (Galilee). Dark ruby in the
glass, this wine offers aromas of cassis and toffee.
It is round on the palate, with silky tannins and fla-
vors of black cherry, cranberry and butterscotch. A
soft note of salinity graces the finish. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Or Haganuz 2019 Amuka Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Galilee). Inky garnet to the eye, this
wine offers a bouquet of dark plums and cured
meat. Bold tannins backdrop flavors of black cherry,
cranberry, eucalyptus, charcuterie and orange blos-
som that linger through the finish. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Or Haganuz 2017 Marom Single Vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). The scent of
cassis with a hint of green pepper leads to flavors
of black cherry, stewed plums, butterscotch, lico-
rice and clove. Fruit and spice swirl on the palate
within light frame of mild tannins before melding
into a cherry and licorice finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $35
RELAX WITH THE
FLAVORS OF SARDINIA.
BOTH EYES AND PALATE
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
WILL LOVE THIS LAND. sellaemosca.com
CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI
DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013

92 Netofa 2017 Dor Syrah (Galilee). Red violet CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING
TO EU REG. NO. 1308/2013

in this wine has a bouquet of black currant

WINEMAG.COM | 157
BUYINGGUIDE
touch of sage that culminate in a bright finish. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45
a final note of brightness. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $48
90 Teperberg 2014 Providence (Shomron).
Bright red-violet in the glass, this wine has
aromas of cassis, coffee and green pepper. It is full
on the palate, with solid tannins, flavors of black

RED BLENDS 91 Jezreel 2018 Nahalal (Galilee). Dark garnet

in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of wild
berries on the vine. It fills the mouth with flavors
currant, dark cherries, thyme, oregano, and a final
splash of cranberry. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-
tion. —M.D.

94 Jezreel 2017 Icón (Shomron). Deep violet in

color, this wine has aromas of black-currant
of raspberry, strawberry, Valencia orange and a hint
of rosemary that are set into velvet tannins. The
abv: 15% Price: $100

jam, vanilla and juniper. It offers a savory compound

of black cherry, pomegranate, clove, sage and black-
pepper flavors. A tight wall of tannins melts into
long finish is remarkably bright. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 25% Price: $25
89 Netofa 2018 Tel Qasser (Galilee). With aro-
mas of blackberry and wild mountainside
herbs, this wine is bright ruby to the eye. It is a
fruit-tinged acidity and a splash of Valencia orange touch cool in taste, with fluid tannins wrapped
on the finish. Drink now through 2032. Kosher.
Royal Wine Corporation. Cellar Selection. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $86
90 Domaine du Castel 2018 Petit Castel (Haut-
Judeé). This wine is red-violet to the eye.
Aromas of black cherry and violet set the scene for
around flavors of black cherry, dark plum, anise,
menthol and eucalyptus that lead to a spicy finish.
Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D.
flavors of black plum, raspberry, lavender, roasted abv: 13.5% Price: $33

93 Jezreel 2018 Alfa Special Reserve (Shom-

ron). For full review see page 114. Kosher.
Editors’ Choice.
red pepper and a touch of smoke, with a framework
of bold tannins. The finish is marked by a touch of
flint. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. SOUTH AFRICA
abv: 15% Price: $36 abv: 14% Price: $48
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
93 Psagot 2016 Peak (Jerusalem). With aromas
of cherry pie, cassis and braised fennel, this
wine is dark ruby in color. It offers a palate-pleas-
90 Jezreel 2019 Alfa (Galilee). Dark violet-
red in the glass, this wine proffers aro-
mas of cassis and vanilla. Flavors of black cherry, 94 Boekenhoutskloof 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). For full review see page 109.
ing combination of fruit and spice flavors includ- dark plum, toffee, sage and black pepper come abv: 14.5% Price: $69
ing purple plum, black currant, anisette, clove, sage together amid pliable tannins and then fade into
and oregano. Rugged tannins drop off into a finish
marked with dried herb notes. Royal Wine Corpora-
tion. —M.D.
a buttered-popcorn finish. Kosher. Royal Wine
Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
94 Reyneke 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). From biodynamic/organic
producer Reyneke comes this special-release wine
abv: 14.5% Price: $45 that’s sourced from a single block and made only in

91 Binyamina 2016 Diamond (Galilee). With

aromas of black currant, green bell pepper
90 Nadiv 2017 Matan (Judean Hills). With a
nose of black plum and smoked meat, this
deep-ruby-colored wine features flavors of black
exceptional vintages. This is just about everything
you’d want a Cab to be—concentrated in ripe but
not overly done black fruit, with earthy elements of
and Mediterranean herbs, this wine is deep ruby in cherry, cherry cola, smoked meat, dark chocolate turned soil, woodsy spice, pressed purple flowers
color. It is soft on the palate, with barely-there tan- and black pepper. Firm tannins take hold of the pal- and singed tobacco leaf, all framed by boldly struc-
nins and flavors of black cherry, cranberry, buttered ate and then dwindle towards a surprisingly bright turing yet somehow simultaneously elegant tan-
toast and roasted fennel bulb. The Mediterranean finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. nins. Long and evolving on the finish, this is beau-
herbs that were apparent on the nose make a return abv: 13.9% Price: $45 tiful from start to finish and will age well through
on the back palate. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. 2036. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $45
90 Netofa 2018 Latour (Galilee). The color of
black cherries, this wine has a bouquet of
abv: 14.1% Price: $136

91 Tabor 2016 Special Edition Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon-Merlot-Petit Verdot (Galilee). This inky,
red-purple-colored wine has a nose of cassis and
raspberry and tomato leaf. A pleasantly wild note
heightens flavors of cherry, blackberry, salted toffee
and ground black pepper. Mellow tannins evaporate
93 Le Riche 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). A lifted, mentholated top
note wafts from the glass of this red, with initial
violet. It is bright on entry, with flavors of black into the savory finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora- tones of balsamic herbs, black currant leaf, lico-
cherry, black currant, caramel and dark chocolate tion. —M.D. rice root and fresh rooibos riding atop a grounded
wrapped up sophisticated tannins. The finish is abv: 14% Price: $30 core of ripe black plum and cherry. Medium-plus in
marked by a splash of bright orange. Kosher. Royal weight, the tannins are firm and gripping at present,
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $40 90 Or Haganuz 2018 Elima Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon-Cabernet Franc (Galilee). Dark garnet
in the glass, this wine has aromas of black cherry
though there is ample fruity intensity and acidity to
keep it all in balance and with the promise of good
maturation in the years ahead. Drink now–2029.

90 Binyamina 2017 Yogev Cabernet Sauvignon-

Petit Verdot (Samson). This deep-cherry-
colored wine has aromas of black plums and violets.
and rose petal. Despite slightly stiff tannins, it feels
good in the mouth, offering flavors of black cherry,
cassis, dark chocolate, baking spice and purple
Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $52

Bold tannins frame flavors of blackberry, cassis,

milk chocolate and tobacco leaf that make way for a
bright finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Best
flowers, with a fruit-compote finish. Kosher. Royal
Wine Corporation. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $35
93 Neil Ellis 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellen-
bosch). An initial hint of singed black plum
skin hits you on first nosing, followed closely after
Buy. —M.D. by notes of licorice root, cassis, cherry skin and
abv: 13% Price: $15
90 Shiloh Winery 2017 Legend Fiddler (Judean
Hills). For full review see page 132. Kosher.
brambly blackberry. The medium-weight palate is
plush but structured, with framing tannins that

90 Carmel 2018 Selected Mediterranean Style

(Shomron). Red-violet in the glass, this
abv: 15% Price: $37 yield a texture like crushed satin. Acidity picks up
the freshness after the sip and through the close,
wine has a bouquet of cassis, mocha and tobacco.
It is very smooth in the mouth, with restrained
tannins and flavors of cherry, raspberry, butter-
90
abv: 15%
Shiloh Winery 2017 Legend Honi (Judean
Hills). For full review see page 133. Kosher.
Price: $37
which evolves to offer more wood spice and light
char tones on the end. Enjoy now–2028. The Sort-
ing Table. —L.B.
scotch, anisette and juniper. The mild finish offers abv: 14% Price: $26

158 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

93 Rust en Vrede 2017 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This wine starts
off pretty shy and reserved, with delicate aromas of
ment as well, with a soft mentholated herbal char-
acter reminiscent of black currant leaf. The pal-
ate is medium in weight and velvety in feel, with
fueled at the moment, but this has the stuff and
overall harmony to do well over the medium term.
Drink through 2031. The Sorting Table. —L.B.
crunchy black currant and cherry hit by a touch of structured but fine tannins that support the ripe abv: NA Price: $48
earthy spice. The palate is medium-plus in weight, black-fruit flavors. A fine seam of acidity keeps the
with a texture like crushed velvet and more robust
black fruit tones complemented by a solid dust-
ing of licorice root and cigar box spice. The finish
palate fresh and the finish clean and lingering, with
good evolution. Drink now–2029. Matthew Ackland
Selections, Inc. . —L.B.
92 Simonsig 2017 Labyrinth Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Stellenbosch). For full review see
page 121.
is long and fueled by charred whole spice, roasted abv: 14% Price: $85 abv: 14% Price: $23
espresso bean and tilled earth. It will come into
its own with more time, so enjoy after 2028 and
through 2036. Terlato Wines International. Cellar
Selection. —L.B.
92 Muratie 2017 Martin Melck Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). This
smells layered and enticing right from the start,
92 Waterford 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-
lenbosch). A mentholated, herbal top note
leads the nose of this red, which has a core of bram-
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA with lovely aromas of just-ripe black plum and cas- bly blackberry and boysenberry. The palate is plush
sis that are topped with notes of raw tobacco leaf, and balanced, with rich black fruit flavors that are

93 Simonsig 2017 The Garland Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). For full
review see page 116. Cellar Selection.
red rooibos and leather. Plush and well-balanced,
more of those just-ripe black fruit tones unfold on
the palate and are framed by moderate tannins for
surrounded by fine tannins and soft acidity to keep
the richness in check. Final hits of licorice and
woody spice grace the close. United Wine and Spir-
abv: 14% Price: $120 a texture like crushed satin. Lightly toasted oak and its. —L.B.
spice accents drive the medium-length close. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $34

93 Stark-Condé 2017 Oude Nektar Cabernet

Sauvignon (Jonkershoek Valley). For full
review see page 116. Cellar Selection.
now–2029. Cape Ardor LLC. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
91 Jardin 2017 The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Stellenbosch). Holy herbs, Batman!
abv: 14% Price: $85
92 Neil Ellis 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Jonker-
shoek Valley). This is a rich and robust
This wine opens with assertive tones of mentho-
lated herbs, fresh rooibos, laurel and rosemary,

92 Boekenhoutskloof 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Franschhoek). There’s a strong purple vio-
let and rooibos character that immediately wafts
pour, with an intense nose of char, cigar box and
pipe tobacco atop a core of black fruit preserves. It’s
full and decadent in the mouth, with a robust, vel-
all riding atop grounded fruit tones of blackberry
and cassis. It’s medium in weight and plush on the
palate, with a texture like crushed velvet as mod-
from the glass of this red, with supporting aromas vety palate that offers beautiful structure and fruity erately gripping tannins frame the muddled black
of blackberry, cassis and boysenberry. Its silky and richness all at once. The finish is long and wood- fruit flavors. The finish brings back more of those
smooth in the mouth, with a satiny texture and fine
tannins that show a soft grip through the spiced
black fruit finish. It’s attractive and well-balanced.
Drink now–2027. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $68

92 Kaapzicht 2017 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

(Stellenbosch). Plush and attractive, this
wine opens with aromas of black cherry, brambly
berry and baked plum, all hit by a solid dose of bak-
ing spice and singed licorice for added depth and
complexity. The palate is well-balanced, with good
intensity to the rich black fruit flavors alongside
medium acidity and firmly structured tannins. The
finish is all spiced fruits and baked berry pie. It’s
hard to resist now but should mature well through
2031. Red Wolf Imports. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $NA

92 Kanonkop 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-

lenbosch). A sweet-oak overlay graces the
nose of this decadent red, expressed in notes of
baking spice and raw cocoa atop black cherry and
currant fruit. Hints of tilled earth and foot-crushed
violets add attractive depth and complexity, though
they also suggest promise of more to come as the
wood mellows. The palate is tight and firmly struc-
tured, with gripping, astringent tannins that need
more time to resolve and better coalesce with the
fruit. Drink 2026–2031. Cape Classics. —L.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Lanzerac 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Jonker-

shoek Valley). Beautifully ripe and lush
black plum, cherry and blackberry scents are dusted
with soft toasted spice and woody accents on the
nose of this Cab. There’s a nice purple flower ele-

WINEMAG.COM | 159
BUYINGGUIDE
mentholated tones, with good staying power and
a fading grip. Drink now–2026. Pascal/Schildt
Selections. —L.B.
90 Holden Manz 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Franschhoek). Blackberry and cherry
preserves and black currant liqueur dominate the
ral acidity and bright fruit to shine. Being the most
cellarworthy of the Vasse Chards, Heytesbury is
always structured and more oak driven when young.
abv: 14% Price: $NA bouquet of this richly fruited wine. A soft overlay It opens with heady aromas of toasted nuts, flint,
of sweet baking spice and vanilla add complexity to seashell, vanilla pod and a seaweed-like umami note

91 Rust en Vrede 2017 Estate Vineyards Cab-

ernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). A bright
cherry top note is front and center on the nose of
the nose, while the palate is plush and creamy in
feel with more black-fruit-flesh flavors that carry
through to the decadent close. Drink now–2026.
amid melon and lemon curd. The palate is fabu-
lously fresh with textural complexity, and lingering
nut, saline and citrus notes on the lengthy finish.
this wine, with additional scents of raspberry pre- Aquamvinos. —L.B. Drink now–2030 and likely much longer. Nego-
serves, pressed violet and vanilla bean. The palate is abv: 14.5% Price: $43 ciants USA–Winebow. —C.P.
like crushed satin in texture, with ample tannins to abv: 13% Price: $80
frame the ripe fruit but also good grip and structure
to support it all and lend length to the finish. Addi-
tional flourishes of cocoa and toasted, whole bak-
90 Le Riche 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-
lenbosch). Vibrant scents of pressed violet
and iris lead the surprisingly floral nose of this red. 95 Vasse Felix 2019 Chardonnay (Margaret
River). For full review see page 108. Editors’
ing spices add depth to the close. Drink now–2029. Additional hints of blueberry and raspberry lend a Choice.
Terlato Wines International. —L.B. fruity suppleness to the bouquet and follow through abv: 13% Price: $45
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA to the smooth, satiny palate alongside the faintest

91 Stark-Condé 2017 Three Pines Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Jonkershoek Valley). Warm and bram-
hint of earthy spice. The mouthfeel is bright and
alive, with a thread of acidity that lifts the mouth-
feel and offers verve through the fruit-fueled finish.
94
Choice.
Stella Bella 2019 Chardonnay (Margaret
River). For full review see page 112. Editors’

bly, this is like a cozy sweater in a glass, enticing and Blue Crane Imports LLC. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $35
welcoming in aromas of ripe black currant, plum abv: 14% Price: $27
preserves and boysenberry. The medium-weight
palate shows soft tannic structure and ample acidity
to keep the plush fruit in check and vibrant through 90 Spier 2017 21 Gables Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). There are cocoa, carnation
92 Vasse Felix 2020 Filius Chardonnay (Marga-
ret River). This entry-level wine opens with
a lift of tangy citrus and stone fruit, with just a hint
the close. Fruit flavors initially fuel the finish but and cardamom elements to the bouquet of this wine, of oak and native yeast complexities. The palate is
then fade into delicate hints of toasted oak and cigar with tones of black cherry preserves and plum sauce light to medium in weight with a gentle textural
spice. Drink now–2026. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. for fruity interest. The palate is medium in weight creaminess, bright fruit and a salty crunch to the
abv: 14% Price: $45 but offers a surprisingly firmly tannic structure and acidity. It’s a classy yet approachable wine that
pronounced acidic streak that carry through to the demonstrates how much Aussie Chard has grown

91 Thelema 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-

lenbosch). There’s an upfront herb-crusted
meatiness on the nose of this wine, like roast beef
finish. A soft herbal underlay lifts the juicy fruit fla-
vors from sip to close. Drink now–2027. USA Wine
West. —L.B.
up. Drink now. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P.
abv: 13% Price: $NA

coated in fennel seed, lavender buds, black tea, abv: NA Price: $36
thyme twigs and sage that’s then baked with plum SAUVIGNON BLANC
and blackberry. The palate is full and robust in
spiced black plum and black cherry flavors, with
firm tannins that yields a gripping mouthfeel from
90 Stark-Condé 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stellenbosch). Abundant sweet-spice aro-
mas of cigar box, toasted oak and licorice take cen- 92 Bec Hardy 2020 Pertaringa Scarecrow Sau-
vignon Blanc (Adelaide Hills). The Hardys
first sip through to the lingering finish. Drink now, ter stage on the nose of this wine, with a dark core are one of Australia’s oldest wine families and Bec
if you must, but otherwise, hold till 2026–2031. of lush black fruit in the background. The palate is is their first female winemaker. In 2020, Bec took
Canopy Wine Selections. —L.B. plush and flavorful, with abundant blackberry and over her father Geoff’s Pertaringa brand, and if this
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 cherry flavors that are softly framed by fine-grain SB is anything to go by, it’s in good hands. Vibrant
tannins. It’s enticing, surprisingly supple and easy fruit aromas typical to Adelaide hills are at the fore

90 Delaire Graff 2017 Laurence Graff Cabernet

Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This is pretty
shy and reserved at first, with faint hints of wood
to enjoy. Enjoy now and through 2026. Vineyard
Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14% Price: $28
(think peach, pineapple, fig and lime zest), flecked
with honeysuckle and grassy notes. The palate is
zingy and textural, those bright aromas morph-
spice, black currant and black plum on the nose. ing into flavors, with all the refreshment of a lime
It’s medium-plus in weight, with more fruity inten-
sity and a bold tannic structure that unfolds on the
crushed velvet palate. The finish is enduring and
90 Warwick 2017 The Blue Lady Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch).
upfront herbal character forms the nose of this
An
popsicle (sans sweetness) on a sweltering summer
day. A crowd-pleaser with more interest than your
average Aussie SB. Mack & Schuhle Inc. Editors’
evolving, ending with a kiss of cigar box spice. Drink earthy wine, expressed through wafts of tilled earth, Choice. —C.P.
now–2027. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. dried red rooibos, currant leaf and plum skin. The abv: 13% Price: $20
abv: NA Price: $540 palate is smooth and satiny in feel, with fine tan-

90 Hartenberg 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stel-

lenbosch). Plum preserves, black cherry
nins and juicy boysenberry and blackberry flavors
that feel fresh and vibrant through the close. Drink
now–2026. Elektra Wines LLC. —L.B.
91 Bec Hardy 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (South Aus-
tralia). This is a crowd-pleasing and afford-
able Sauvignon with which to stock the summer-
juice and blackberry liquor all abound on the nose abv: 14.5% Price: $40 time fridge. The nose shows pretty, delicate notes
of this attractively fruit-forward wine. Hints of lico- of jasmine, honeysuckle, citrus blossom, peach and
rice root and fresh rooibos lend a slightly mentho- grapefruit with just a hint of green veg pungency
lated lift to the bouquet. The mouthfeel is supple AUSTRALIA to remind you we’re in Sauvignon Blanc territory.
and velvety, with well-structured but fine tannins Fresh, floral and fruity in the mouth, there’s some
that offer ample structure and grip through the CHARDONNAY slippery texture to this dry and refreshing drop.
close. Soft tones of toasted oak and cigar box close Mack & Schuhle Inc. —C.P.
out the sip. Drink now–2027. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —L.B. 97 Vasse Felix 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay
(Margaret River). One of the most renowned
abv: 13% Price: $17

abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Chardonnays in Australia, the latest release is a

knockout. A cool vintage allowed for gorgeous natu- 89 Flying Wild 2019 Three Elms Sauvignon
Blanc (Western Australia). This is a fresh

160 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

poolside sipper from Western Australia that opens flavors remain lively on a focused finish. Drink
with a touch of seashell-and-onion reduction but RIESLING through 2024. W. Direct. —M.S.
quickly moves into lime, peach and passion fruit abv: 14% Price: $38
territory, with a tomato leaf and snow pea under-
belly. In the mouth, crisp acidity and citrus flavors
flow through to the finish. Straightforward yet vari-
91 Jim Barry 2017 LoosenBarry Wolta Wolta Dry
Riesling (Clare Valley). This is a collabora-
tion between the Barry family and German pro- 93 Doña Paula 2019 Los Indios Parcel Malbec
(San Carlos). Compact plum, blackberry
etal and balanced. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. ducer Ernst Loosen. As such, German winemaking and cassis aromas are inky but also minerally and
abv: 13% Price: $20 techniques like the use of 3,000-liter casks, native complex, with a dash of oak spice. A healthy pal-
yeast fermentation and extended time on the lees ate is balanced and solid, with flavors of wild berry,

87 Clairault 2019 Halley & Lex Sauvignon Blanc

(Margaret River). This is a straightforward,
summery Sauvignon. Underneath the reductive
have been implemented, resulting in rounder, more
textural Riesling than the Barrys’s other bottlings.
Light honey-hued, it’s initially quite reductive
dark plum and prune. The finish tastes similar, with
modest expansion. Drink through 2024. Prestige
Beverage Group. —M.S.
oniony notes can be found lemon-lime, dried pine- but as it receives air, shows lime, honeycomb and abv: 14.5% Price: $80
apple, grass and subtle florals. It does open some- orchard blossom aromas. There’s shrill acidity on
what after time in the glass, and more of the more
attractive fruit and floral characters shine. There’s
quite elevated acidity on the palate and also a feel-
the palate but lovely texture and a mineral note that
underpins the lingering fruit and floral characters.
Still very young, this could unfold beautifully with
92 Argento 2018 Single Vineyard Finca Altamira
Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). For full
review see page 117.
ing of some residual sugar, which never quite gels, time in the cellar. Loosen Bros. USA. —C.P. abv: 14.8% Price: $40
leaving the fruit a touch sour on the finish. Margaret abv: 12.5% Price: $75
River Imports. —C.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19
90 Jim Barry 2019 Watervale Riesling (Clare
Valley). This approachable white shows
92 Infinito 2018 Winemaker’s Selection Malbec
(Mendoza). Grapy berry aromas come with a
note of asphalt, while this is racy and braced by firm
heaps of lime leaf, lavender and talc aromas. The acidity. Plum, cassis and raspberry flavors are more
SEMILLON acidity is lifted and fresh but not shrill. There’s red than black, while this Malbec from a top vintage
what feels like just the slightest sweetness, bright finishes with pulling tannins that lend a rubbing

95 Brokenwood 2014 ILR Reserve Semillon

(Hunter Valley). For full review see page
105. Editors’ Choice.
citrus fruit, and a chalky texture. A quintessential
Clare Valley wine that’s food and summer friendly.
Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —C.P.
texture. Drink through 2024. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $38

abv: 11.5% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

90 Verum 2019 Malbec (Alto Valle del Río
Negro). Early aromas of chocolaty oak and

92 Brokenwood 2016 Oakey Creek Vineyard

Semillon (Hunter Valley). This single vine-
yard Hunter Semillon from over-20-year-old vines
90 Jim Barry 2017 The Florita Riesling (Clare
Valley). From nearly 60-year-old vines, The
Florita is a wine destined for a long life. Despite a
vanilla are quickly replaced by red berry, plum and
rubbery scents. This is a forward style of Patago-
nian Malbec with healthy balance and intensity on
still has many years ahead of it, but it’s also in a happy few years of bottle age, it is tight and austere, with the palate. Savory blackberry and peppery spice
drinking spot now. The nose is open and expressive, reductive notes at the fore when first opened. As flavors finish steady, with modest tannic bite. Vino
with waxy lemon and lime, peach pit, white spice the wine warms in the glass, the bright citrus fruit Del Sol. —M.S.
and gentle herbal aromas. The palate is zippy, fresh starts to show. The acidity on the palate remains abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
and fruity, softened by a supple texture and honeyed laser sharp, with a slight prickle that dissipates
notes. A pithy lemony bite finishes. Drink now until
around 2027. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P.
abv: 11% Price: $34
with time. There’s a gently slippery texture, a lovely
tea tree character and limey freshness that lingers
on the finish. Drink now with a meal until 2032 at
88 Alta Vista 2019 Estate Malbec (Mendoza).
Rubbery blackberry aromas come with
a touch of campfire smokiness, while the pal-
least. Loosen Bros. USA. —C.P. ate is fresh and smacks with juicy acidity. Herbal

91 Brokenwood 2020 Semillon (Hunter Valley).

This renowned estate’s most recent vintage—
abv: 12.5% Price: $50 black plum and black currant flavors are common
to Mendoza, with scratchy dryness to the finish.
a hot, dry and difficult year—has produced a solid
wine that may not have the longevity of some pre-
vious vintages, but that offers a lot of drinkabil-
89 Jim Barry 2019 Lodge Hill Riesling (Clare Val-
ley). This is a young wine in the dry, some-
times austere, lean Riesling style of this producer. It
Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $NA

ity in the short term. There’s a heady perfume of

lemon oil, orange peel, dried herbs, beeswax, wool
and kerosene. The palate is fresh but not shrill or
needs air as it’s quite reductive at first, the Band-Aid
and onion notes dominating. Gentle notes of citrus,
stone fruit and mineral float from the glass eventu-
88 Septima 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery
blackberry, black plum and cassis aromas
are common but inviting, while this Malbec is juicy
unbalanced. Drink through 2029. Old Bridge Cel- ally. Acidity shrieks from the palate, saved by some and bold on the palate, with a pop of acidity that
lars. —C.P. roundness of texture and fruit depth. There’s a long pushes things along. Easy flavors of dark berry
abv: 11% Price: $20 finish of juicy limey fruit. Loosen Bros. USA. —C.P. fruits and black currant finish steady. Raventos
abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Codorniu. —M.S.

89 First Creek 2018 Semillon (Hunter Valley).

While still varietally and regionally on the
ARGENTINA
abv: 14% Price: $14

mark, this bottling doesn’t currently present as well

as the previous vintage did. The nose is straightfor- 88 The Seeker 2019 Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy
berry aromas come with a light whiff of oak
ward, bright and fruity, wafting aromas of peach, MALBEC and a touch of herbal green. The palate is straight-
ripe lemon, honeysuckle and talc. Acidity on the forward, with medium-level weight. Blueberry and
palate is shrill, wrestling out the citrus flavors and
waxy texture. This may simply need another few
years in the bottle to knit together and then could
93 Casa Natal 2018 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Ripe blackberry and dark plum aromas are
pulpy and jammy but not fat or overextracted. A
blackberry flavors are ever so slightly leafy, while
this everyday Malbec is fresh and juicy through the
finish. Kobrand. —M.S.
cellar through 2026. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. pure and racy palate is powerful but well struc- abv: 14% Price: $14
abv: 11.5% Price: $25 tured. Blackberry, dark plum and chalky mineral

87 One Leaf 2019 Oak Aged Malbec (Mendoza).

On first take, this Malbec smells a bit like

WINEMAG.COM | 161
BUYINGGUIDE
opening a box of chocolates; the nose is fluffy and expands on the finish with berry, spice and choco- at herbs, giving this Bonarda an elegant nose. A
candied. A pulpy palate is medium to full in size, late notes, with herbal hints coming in late. Drink juicy, lifted palate is pulpy but finessed. Raspberry,
while this tastes of plum and berry fruits mixed through 2024. MundoVino–Winebow. Editors’ cherry and currant flavors are a touch reedy, while
with lightly herbal green notes. A solid finish shows Choice. —M.S. this tastes slightly of red licorice candy accented by
a touch of mint as well as mild heat and burn. Cali- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA herbs on the finish. Drink through 2025. Mundo-
fornia Wine Cellars Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. Vino–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
92 El Enemigo 2016 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Black-
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Tacho 2019 Hand-Picked Estate Vineyards

Malbec (Uco Valley). Lightly herbal black-
fruit aromas come with hints of mint and chocolaty
berry and dark plum aromas are a touch rubbery
and roasted at first, but more open after airing.
A smooth but robust palate is full but balanced,
93 El Enemigo 2017 Bonarda (Mendoza). A
sweet whiff of cotton candy and spun sugar
introduces jammy aromas of floral berry fruits
oak. The palate is fueled by spiky acidity, while solid with spicy, peppery berry flavors that are lightly and licorice. On the palate, this blend of multiple
berry and plum flavors are slightly herbal and pep- herbal but not green. A sappy, jammy finish plays Bonarda vineyards is lush and packed with fruit.
pery. If you seek satisfying everyday Malbec, this is up the herbal side of this blend from a wet and Blackberry, cassis and plum flavors come with
a good option. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. difficult year. Drink through 2024. MundoVino– chocolaty subtleties and a chewy, creamy finish.
abv: 13.9% Price: $12 Winebow. —M.S. Drink through 2023. MundoVino–Winebow. Edi-
abv: 13.9% Price: $120 tors’ Choice. —M.S.

86 Bodega Belgrano NV Malbec (Argentina).

Foxy berry and plum aromas are a touch
92 Ernesto Catena 2016 Siesta En El Tahuantin-
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

candied, while this Malbec is snappy and fresh on

a palate with moderate scope and depth. Plum and
berry flavors are common to Malbec, with a note of
suyu Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Vista
Flores). A shining ruby-purple color and aromas of
rocky earth, spicy oak, blueberry, black plum and
93 El Enemigo 2017 El Mirador Single Vineyard
Bonarda (Mendoza). Cherry and raspberry
aromas are direct and pure, while this is lively on
herbal green showing up on the finish. The Wine citrus peel make for a fine opening to this Uco Val- the palate for Bonarda, with popping acidity lend-
Group. Best Buy. —M.S. ley Cab Franc from a tough vintage. Powerfully built ing zest and freshness. Snappy currant and rasp-
abv: 13% Price: $8 and fully extracted, this tastes of black plum, wild berry flavors lean more red than black, while mild
berry fruits, desert herbs and mixed spices. On the chocolaty oak makes a background appearance

86 It’s a Headsnapper 2019 Malbec (Mendoza).

Generic black fruit aromas are ever so
slightly grassy, while this feels juicy, with tannic
finish, it thins out, dries up and closes with clean
lines and overall purity. Drink through 2023. Vine-
yard Brands. —M.S.
on the finish. Drink through 2025. MundoVino–
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
rub. Herbal plum and blackberry flavors are stan- abv: 13.8% Price: $35
dard for Malbec and don’t change on an easy finish.
The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $10 90 Kaiken 2017 Obertura Cabernet Franc (Men-
doza). Leafy dark-berry aromas come with
93 El Enemigo 2017 La Esperanza Single Vine-
yard Bonarda (Mendoza). Raspberry, cur-
rant and floral aromas stand out. The front side of
a hint of oaky chocolate, while this is fresh and the palate is jammy and opulent, while the back-

86
abv: 14%
Kirkland Signature 2019 Malbec (Mendoza).
For full review see page 138. Best Buy.
Price: $7
lively on a medium-depth palate. Peppery black-
berry flavors have that herbal essence that Cab
Franc is known for, while the finish is safe and easy
side softens and settles. Jammy berry flavors are
big and fruity, while this Bonarda finishes easy and
with lots of ripe berry fruit. Drink through 2023.
without much complexity. Drink now. Guarachi MundoVino–Winebow. —M.S.

86 Piattelli 2019 Alto Molino Malbec (Cafay-

ate). A dark ruby color along with aromas
Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

of milk chocolate, vanilla and herbal berry fruits

open this Cafayate Malbec. A chunky, round palate
is blocky, with only modest acidity. Peppery dark- 88 Antigal 2017 Aduentus Cabernet Franc
(Mendoza). Grainy oak aromas blend with
92 El Enemigo 2017 Los Paraísos Single Vineyard
Bonarda (Mendoza). Grapy black fruit aro-
mas show side notes of cardamom and wild herbs in
berry flavors quickly fade on a soft finish. Vino- green-leaning berry scents, while this Cab Franc front of a flush and jammy palate that’s chunky and
copia. Best Buy. —M.S. is full on the palate but loosely structured and full but restrained. Medicinal black plum and black-
abv: 14.5% Price: $10 high in tartaric acidity given the 15.3% abv. Spicy berry flavors are ripe and lush. On the finish, this
plum and berry flavors taste of creamy oak prior Bonarda loses some intensity but remains smooth.
to a finish with potent lingering green notes. Cork Drink through 2022. MundoVino–Winebow. —M.S.
CABERNET FRANC Alliance. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
abv: 15.3% Price: $20

93 Bodega Corazon del Sol 2017 Reserva Revana

Vineyard Single Block 13 Cabernet Franc (Los
Chacayes). A whole lot of complexity is presented on 88 Profesión 2018 Lawyer Cabernet Franc (Uco
Valley). Aromas of violet petal, pastry and
CALIFORNIA
the nose of this excellent Cab Franc, including aro- blackberry lead to a dense and ripe palate that’s SAUVIGNON BLANC
mas of cured meat, prickly Uco Valley herbs, black- jammy but low on finesse. Herbal berry flavors are
berry, leather and fine oak. A juicy palate expands
with airing, while this tastes of spicy blackberry and
cassis. A direct finish avoids roughness and heat but
lightly spicy, with a chocolaty backing that extends
onto a creamy finish. While this doesn’t shout out
“Cab Franc,” it’s perfectly good and tasty as Argen-
94 Ehlers Estate 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (St.
Helena). This elegant white was aged in
stainless steel, neutral French oak and concrete egg,
is tight and firm. Drink through 2026. Revana Fam- tine reds go. Consortium & Spirits LLC. —M.S. with just a hint of newer oak. Juicy in pear, lime
ily Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 and wet stone, it offers well-integrated acidity and
abv: 14.5% Price: $65 brightness throughout, with a slate-like texture and
hints of baking spice and herb. —V.B.
BONARDA
92 El Enemigo 2017 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza).
Tight, spicy aromas of rooty berry fruits
abv: 13.4% Price: $36

brightened by red currant set up a smooth, jammy

palate that doesn’t weigh too heavily. Peppery black
fruit flavors are topped by toasty oak, while this
94 El Enemigo 2017 El Barranco Single Vineyard
Bonarda (Mendoza). Black currant, dark
plum and berry aromas are lightly floral and hint
94 Grieve 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). From a 60-acre estate in the Lovall
Valley, this white is made by the team at Atelier

162 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

Melka and 100% varietal, given 17 months in new
French oak and concrete egg. Fresh in peach and
candied ginger, it shows lovely, well-integrated
is a lovely white made from certified-organic grapes.
Tart and stony in texture, it offers lithe layers of
white fig, green apple and melon, with a finishing
90
Choice.
Muirwood 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo
Seco). For full review see page 131. Editors’

acidity and impressive texture, with length and touch of baking spice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $16
brightness throughout. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $27
abv: 14.2% Price: $90
CHENIN BLANC
94 Rusack 2017 Icon Musque Clone Sauvignon 91 Ryder Estate 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Coast). For full review see page 135. Best Buy.
Blanc (Ballard Canyon). There’s a stunning
concentration of fresh and dried aromas on the nose
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
93 Lang & Reed 2018 Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley).
This 100% varietal white is aged for four
of this clonal showcase, which spent 11 months in
French oak, including citrus pith, petrol, jasmine
and mango. The rich mouthfeel delivers cherimoya,
91 Sutro 2020 Warnecke Ranch Sauvignon Blanc
(Alexander Valley). Fragrant layers of apple,
melon and white flower mingle along a firmly tex-
months in both French oak and stainless steel, giv-
ing it a persistent freshness and nice fruity appeal.
Peach and pear notes glide across the palate with
mango-custard and guava-peel flavors, all set atop a tured and lively palate of high-toned acidity in this silky ease, the acidity tangy and crisp, with notes of
creamy texture with tingling acidity lingering in the well-made, sumptuous white. Earthy wet stone honey in the background. —V.B.
background through the finish. —M.K. adds a touch of minerality. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $35
abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 13% Price: $35

93 Quivira 2019 Alder Grove Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Blended with 23% 90 A. Toraño 2019 Kick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc
(Sonoma County). This is a medium-bod-
93
page 115.
Rococo 2020 Own Rooted Chenin Blanc
(Santa Barbara County). For full review see

Sémillon, this is a textured and complex wine, high- ied, opulent white with underlying crispness that abv: 14.7% Price: $24
toned in edgy acidity. The flavors combine effort- shines in up-front flavors of grapefruit, lime and
lessly along a palate of cohesive grace and grip, tast-
ing of grapefruit and pomelo. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $27
Meyer lemon. A hint of oak and stone fruit add rich-
ness and complementary depth. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $30
93 Rococo 2020 Shell Creek Chenin Blanc (Paso
Robles Highlands District). For full review
see page 116.
abv: 14% Price: $24

93 Quivira 2019 Q Collection Wine Creek Ranch

Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Fig,
lemon rind, green apple and pomelo fruit accent
90 Castoro Cellars 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso
Robles). Light and delicate aromas of red
apple and ripe pear show a crispy, flinty edge on 92 Combe 2019 Stolpman Vineyards Chenin
Blanc (Ballard Canyon). File this one into
this high-toned, complex wine from the producer’s the nose of this bottling. A stony tension frames the the somewhat weird but fascinating category.
organically farmed estate. Aged in acacia wood, it has palate, where honeydew and lime-spritz flavors are Incredibly stony aromas of smashed rocks and
texture and medium body weight, rounded on the pleasantly mellow. —M.K. wet gravel mix with lemon oil and pickled egg on
midpalate with a buildup of spicy lemongrass. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $20 the nose of this bottling. There’s a brilliant zest
abv: 14.2% Price: $32 to the sip, where green-tea and Southeast Asian

92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

(Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page
90 Comartin 2020 Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Arroyo Seco). Grassy in both freshly
mowed and dried hay ways, this bottling also offers
spice flavors are cut by bright citrus tones. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $42
118. Editors’ Choice. lime-zest, moss and damp earth aromas on the nose.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 There’s a solid tension to the palate, where grassy,
pome-fruit and lime flavors are wrapped in a rocky 92 Rococo 2020 Old Bailey Ranch Chenin Blanc
(Adelaida District). Lime-blossom, green

92 Mauritson 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek

Valley). For full review see page 119.
abv: 13.75% Price: $28
tension. —M.K.
abv: 13.6% Price: $32
mango and delicate guava aromas show on the nose
of this bottling from a vineyard planted in 1969. The
sip is very grippy and texturally compelling, pinching

92 Navarro 2020 Cuvée 128 Sauvignon Blanc

(Anderson Valley). This attractive, complex,
90 Di Arie 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc
(Sierra Foothills). Aromas of flint and figs
mingle with flavors of lemon, minerals and canta-
the palate while layering on the pome and ston-fruit
flavors, with a touch of wet gravel minerality. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $28
aged-on-the-lees wine shows wonderful toast and loupe in this complex, rather full-bodied and con-
ginger aromas, excellent balance and good, crisp
lemon, and Gravenstein apple flavors. It’s a beauti-
ful, cool-climate wine. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
centrated wine. It has a tempting, savory appeal and
goes well beyond simple fruitiness. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $25
92 Rococo 2019 Reserve Chenin Blanc (Santa
Barbara County). Clean and subtle aromas of
Pink Lady apple, white spring flowers and a slight
abv: 24% Price: $24 hint of green apple show on the nose of this reserve

92 Smith Story 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma

County). For full review see page 121. —V.B.
90
Best Buy.
Grounded Wine Co. 2020 Sauvignon Blanc
(California). For full review see page 136.
bottling. The texture is somewhat opulent on the
palate, where coconut and tropical-flower flavors
show. —M.K.
abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $42

91 A. Toraño 2020 Kick Ranch Sauvignon Blanc

(Sonoma County). Light, floral and earthy,
this medium-bodied white offers good midpalate
90 J. Lohr 2020 Flume Crossing Sauvignon
Blanc (Arroyo Seco). This widely available
Sauvignon Blanc delivers all that’s needed for a
91 Calera 2019 Chenin Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley).
There’s a waxy nose to this bottling from
Curtis Vineyard, full of lemon-peel and paraffin
weight and breadth, with a tension of acidity. Pear, crisp sip, starting with aromas of pear, peach, green aromas as well as rocks and dust. The grippy texture
vanilla bean and a hint of peach round out the flavor pepper and grass. The palate amplifies the grass is very compelling on the sip, with a range of citrus
profile, finishing in a kick of lime. —V.B. notes, leading to white-pepper, crushed stone and rind and pith, from sour to smoky. —M.K.
abv: 13.9% Price: $30 apricot flavors. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $38
abv: 13.5% Price: $14

91 Quivira 2019 Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon

Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Aromatic with
freshly cut grass, white flower and oyster shell, this
91 Combe 2018 Stolpman Vineyard Chenin Blanc
(Ballard Canyon). This Chenin Blanc is unlike
most other white wines, and watching it evolve

WINEMAG.COM | 163
BUYINGGUIDE
over the years in the cellar is an aesthetic adven- tling. The palate opens up toward crisp pear flesh palate zips with acidity across layers of lemon rind
ture. Unique aromas of petrol meet with fresh citrus yet retains the struck stone elements. —M.K. and buttered peach. The finish is long and nutty. Edi-
blossoms on the nose, while the palate pops with abv: 15.1% Price: $32 tors’ Choice. —M.K.
struck flint and richer lemon curd flavors. Drink abv: 14% Price: $34
now through 2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 12% Price: $42 92
page 118.
J Vineyards & Winery 2019 Estate Pinot Gris
(Russian River Valley). For full review see
92 Lexington 2018 Alma Gist Ranch Estate
(Santa Cruz Mountains). This Bordelaise-

91 Gaderian 2019 Henry Ranch Chenin Blanc

(Napa Valley). For full review see page 124.
abv: 14.1% Price: $36 inspired blend of 51% Sémillon and 49% Sauvi-
gnon Blanc is suave and sleek on the nose, offering
abv: 13.8% Price: $32
91 Bouchaine 2019 Estate Pinot Gris (Carneros).
For full review see page 123.
guava-peel, baked apple and tropical-citrus flavors
on the pleasantly mellow nose. There is a tension

91 Rococo 2020 Chalone Chenin Blanc (Chalone).

Lemon candy, baked pear, red apple and a
abv: 13.5% Price: $36 to the sip, where yellow- and green-apple flavors
meet with a waxy lemon peel-touch and the faintest
light clove spice show on the nose of this bottling
from vines planted in 1919. Lively citrus, pear and
nectarine flavors come through on the sip, with a
89 La Crema 2019 Pinot Gris (Monterey). Wet
gravel, crushed stone, lime candy and pet-
rol aromas make for complex nose on this refresh-
drops of petrol. —M.K.
abv: 13.6% Price: $48

rich apple-syrup component pushing into the finish.

Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
ing wine. The wine clings to the palate at first, then
opens to green-apple and Key lime flavors, with a
brush of bay leaf. —M.K.
91 Pulchella 2019 Latitude Sauvignon Blanc-
Viognier (Paso Robles). This unique blend
of 58% Sauvignon Blanc and 42% Viognier suc-
abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ceeds, creating a nose of tight jicama and lime-pith

91 Rococo 2020 Vista Verde Vineyard Chenin

Blanc (San Benito County). There’s almost a
pinkish hue to this bottling, which begins with fresh 88 Castello di Amorosa 2019 Pinot Grigio
(North Coast). Surprisingly light in texture,
aromas, almost showing a shade of green in the
glass. The palate offers both ripe apricot and a wet
stone minerality. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
aromas of pear flesh, gardenia and wet rocks. Riper refreshing and overflowing with fruit flavors, this abv: 14.8% Price: $40
apple flavors arise on the sip, which carries a stony quaffable, full-bodied wine offers green apples and
streak into the expressive finish. —M.K.
abv: 14% Price: $28
ripe Anjou pears that verge on sweetness. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $26 90 Broc Cellars 2020 Love White (California).
Hazy in appearance, this iconoclastic wine
made from organically grown Marsanne, Grenache

90 La Pitchoune 2018 La Bombe Chenin Blanc

(Clarksburg). This light bodied but richly
textured wine offers doughy, figgy aromas, pastry-
88 Ferrari-Carano 2020 Pinot Grigio (Sonoma
County). With lovely floral aromatics, this
white traffics in lemon and peach flavors, with zesty
Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul grapes features a
lemon-zest aroma, and tasty banana, lemon and
mineral flavors on a lively, almost tart texture: what
like flavors of butter, nutmeg and pie crust and sub- acidity giving it a simple, crowd-pleasing style and a nice way to break a style barrier! —J.G.
tle underlying lemon and baked apple flavors. Very appeal. —V.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $22
interesting to sip for its complexity and depth. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $165
abv: 12.2% Price: $28

88 Noble Vines 2020 152 Pinot Grigio (Monterey 90 J. Lohr 2019 Gesture RVG Limited Release
White (Adelaida District). For full review

90 Whipstitch 2019 Chenin Blanc (California).

Crisp, dry and delicate, this light-bodied
wine emphasizes green apple, mineral and lemon
County). Clean aromas of lime blossom and
margarita salt make for a fresh entry to the nose of
this crisp bottling. Ripe flavors of pear and melon
see page 130.
abv: 14.1% Price: $35

notes lifted by zingy acidity. Perfect as a subtle

aperitif or lunch wine. —J.G.
abv: 11.2% Price: $19
are sprinkled with Mexican lime juice and wrapped
is just a tad of tension. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
90 Marimar 2018 Estate Grown Don Miguel
Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River Valley).
Pulling together 60% Chardonnay and 40% Albariño
into a cohesive whole, this lively white is dry, stony

88 Graziano 2019 Chenin Blanc (Mendocino).

This fresh-tasting, apple-scented and
medium-bodied wine offers plenty of Pippin apple
87
Buy.
Kirkland Signature 2020 Pinot Grigio (Cali-
fornia). For full review see page 138. Best
and shows much of the first grape’s qualities: a mix
of green apple, par and jasmine, with just a touch of
melon. Bright and balanced, it is well structured and
and lime flavors on a snappy texture. It’s refresh- abv: 12% Price: $13/3 L complex. —V.B.
ing and has enough body to pair with rich seafood abv: 13.5% Price: $36
dishes. —J.G.
WHITE BLENDS
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
90 Quivira 2018 Wine Creek Ranch Roussanne-
Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). Made from

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO 94 McPrice Myers 2019 Beautiful Earth (Paso

Robles Willow Creek District). This balanced,
refreshing and exciting blend of 54% Clairette
certified-organic Roussanne (80%) and Viognier
(20%), this white is supple, floral and juicy in fresh
fruit. Moderate in weight, with balanced ripeness, it

93 Keller Estate 2019 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot

Gris (Petaluma Gap). Dry, floral and richly
layered in nectarine and kiwi fruit, this white is
Blanche and 46% Grenache Blanc begins with fresh
and even minty aromas of honeysuckle, kiwi and
crushed sea shell on the restrained and tight nose.
shows layers of mango, pear and honeysuckle. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $34

medium-bodied and moderate in acidity, building

body and weight as it goes. The nose is honeysuckle
and fresh, making for a beautifully memorable
An extremely chalky grip immediately grabs hold
of the palate, engaging on all fronts with just-ripe
chilled melon and lingering mint flavors. —M.K.
89 Montoliva 2019 Sierra Donna (Sierra Foot-
hills). Crisp, dry and tangy, this refresh-
ing wine made with a majority of Sauvignon Blanc
quaff. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 in the blend emphasizes citrus flavors and offers
abv: 14.1% Price: $35 ample appetizing acidity. —J.G.

92 Alma Rosa 2019 La Encantada Pinot Gris 92 Allegretto 2018 Trio Ayres Family Reserve
(Paso Robles). This toasty blend of 44%
abv: 12.9% Price: $18

(Sta. Rita Hills). Clean aromas of smashed

rock, chipped flint and a touch of petrol meet with
lemon blossom and apple on the nose of this bot-
Vermentino, 42% Viognier and 14% Roussanne is a
solid Chardonnay alternative. Salted nuts, honey, oak
and fresh tropical fruits show on the nose, while the
89 Paraduxx 2019 Proprietary (Napa Valley).
Made from 56% Chardonnay, 38% Viog-
nier and 6% Marsanne, this is a lush, fleshy and

164 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

opulent wine, bursting in melon, marshmallow and rose-petal, dark-cocoa and warm, just-roasted cof- erately fruity palate that is nicely accented by
anise. Softly textured, it provides depth and length, fee-bean aromas make for an elegant nose on this leather and sage. It’s blended with small amounts of
with a light finishing touch of oak. —V.B. blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot Canaiolo Nero and whites Malvasia and Trebbiano.
abv: 14.2% Price: $34 and 8% Petit Verdot, which is only made in certain Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
years. A bittersweet cocoa element kicks off the pal- abv: 13.9% Price: $34

89 Pine Ridge 2020 Chenin Blanc-Viognier

(California). Both fruity and well balanced,
this charming, light-bodied wine offers crisp-apple
ate, where rounded cherry and boysenberry flavors
are dusted with pepper and baking spice. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $75 92 Dunites 2018 Syrah-Grenache (San Luis
Obispo County). This bottling manages to
aromas and white-peach flavors on a lively, easy-to- capture both the freshness of Grenache with the
like palate. —J.G.
abv: 11.7% Price: $16 93 Hamel Family 2018 Isthmus (Sonoma Val-
ley). From the Sonoma Valley-based pro-
ducer’s two estates, Hamel Family and Nun’s Can-
brooding character of Syrah. Pungent aromas of acai
and black currant meet with flashes of hibiscus and
violet on the nose. The palate is hearty and deep
yon, this blends a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon with purple fruit and flowers, sprinkled with shaved
RED BLENDS with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. licorice and cracked pepper. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
Thick, herbal and tannic in its youth, it has complex abv: 14.2% Price: $34

95 Adelaida 2018 Twenty Three Twenty (Ade-

laida District). Rich layers of baked red fruit
are wrapped in French toast, roasted coffee and pie
tones of iron, crushed rock and elusively tart, tangy
fruit at its core, strong and powerful in concentra-
tion and structure. Enjoy best from 2028 through 92 Halcón 2019 Esquisto Estate Grenache-Syrah
(Yorkville Highlands). A meaty, black-pep-
spice on the nose of this vintage-dependent blend 2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B. pery aroma makes this full-bodied wine memo-
of 34% Syrah, 30% Petite Sirah, 17% Mourvèdre, abv: 14.5% Price: $90 rable as it brings lively grilled plum, woodsmoke
15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Alicante Bous- and cooked cherry flavors to the palate, lifting them
chet. The palate offers roasted meat, baked currants
and strong pepper spice, with polished tannins
holding it together. —M.K.
93 Kale 2016 McGah Vineyard Heritage (Ruth-
erford). Winemaker Kale Anderson com-
bines 84% Grenache with 16% Mourvèdre in this
with good acidity and light tannins. The blend is
80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, and half of the
grapes were whole-cluster fermented. —J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $100 brooding, velvety thick red. Firm tannins provide abv: 14.2% Price: $32
a foundation for dark-cherry, plum and smoked

95 Parrish Family 2017 Four Chords (Adelaida

District). Very dark in the glass, this blend
of four top Bordeaux varieties is sleek on the nose
meat flavors to glide across the palate, with bright
undertones of acidity contributing elusive fresh-
ness. —V.B.
92 J. Dirt 2018 Slide Hill (Edna Valley). This
blend of 51% Grenache and 49% Syrah
comes from one of the few vineyards planted as bio-
with focused black cherry and caramel aromas. abv: 14.7% Price: $75 dynamic from day one. Focused aromas of intense
The palate is elegant and expertly smooth in tex- boysenberry are enhanced by thyme, sage and dried
ture, offering black cherry, red and purple flowers
and a load of baking spice and cocoa wrapped up in
creamy tannins. —M.K.
93 Kukkula 2018 Aatto (Adelaida District). A
45% Counoise component leads the blend of
35% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache in this bottling,
violets on the nose, which also has a slight savory
side. The medium-bodied palate is wrapped around
firm tannins, offering elderberry, lavender and
abv: 14.58% Price: $65 which makes for a lighter glass full of zesty herbs, white-peppercorn flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
pepper and fresh pomegranate on the nose. The fresh abv: 14.5% Price: $55

94 Crescere 2017 Proprietary (Alexander Valley).

With an opening foray into perfumed tones
of toasted oak and baking spice, this red is brimming
qualities include red plum and tart strawberry on the
palate, where fennel pollen, sumac and hibiscus fla-
vors also pop. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 92 Kukkula 2018 Pas de Deux (Adelaida Dis-
trict). Dried strawberry, red-plum, star
in brawny layers of blueberry, blackberry and black abv: 15.6% Price: $55 anise, mace and toasted wood aromas arise from
currant. Cedar, sage and dried herb components the glass in this blend of 59% Grenache and 41%
add complexity and contrast along the full-bodied
concentration of powerful tannin and length. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $150
93 Newton 2018 The Puzzle (Napa Valley). This
vintage of the producer’s classic blend is
composed of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Caber-
Syrah. The palate recalls strawberries roasted on
sticks over a campfire, dusted with salt, pepper and
brown spice. —M.K.
net Franc, 8% Merlot and 2% each of Petit Verdot abv: 15.3% Price: $55

94 Stolpman 2018 Sun & Earth Ruben Solorzano

(Ballard Canyon). Dense aromas of black
pepper, elderberry, mahogany and tar show on the
and Malbec. Thick, earthy and herbal, it shows the
mountain fruit of both Spring Mountain and Mount
Veeder. Bits of sage, tobacco and cedar shine through 92 Miro 2019 Cuvée Sasha Chevalier Vineyard
Grenache-Syrah (Mendocino). This warm,
nose of this blend of 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah blackberry and black currant. This structured wine broad wine offers abundant black-cherry, cooked
and 10% Grenache, named in honor of the estate’s will benefit from cellaring; enjoy from 2028–2038. plums and milk-chocolate flavors for a rich, palate-
celebrated vineyard manager. Cedary elements Cellar Selection. —V.B. coating expression that’s hard to resist. Mild tannins
frame the sip, where black-plum, lavender and vio- abv: 14% Price: $125 and full body give it a very generous texture. —J.G.
let flavors sit atop well-integrated tannins that pro- abv: 14.6% Price: $24
vide structure but linger in the background. Drink
now through 2028. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $98
93 Ram’s Gate 2018 Cellar Note Grenache-Syrah
(Sonoma Coast). Made from 52% Grenache
and 48% Syrah, this wine deftly shows rich ele- 92 Parrish Family 2017 Silken (Paso Robles).
Opaque in the glass, this blend of 50% Cab-
ments of baked fruit, ash and char. Dark cherry ernet Sauvignon, 30% Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah and

93 Davis Family 2018 Throne G-S-M (Russian

River Valley). Nicely combining 68% Gre-
nache with 24% Syrah and 8% Mourvèdre, this
and strawberry pop on the palate around firm,
supple tannin and integrated oak, offering a juicy
approachability behind impressive structure and
10% Petit Verdot starts with aromas of smashed
strawberry, baked boysenberry and dark spice on
the nose. Violet and cola spice flavors mix with cas-
wine is earthy in turned dirt and barnyard. Thickly length. —V.B. sis on the firmly structured palate. —M.K.
structured and grippy in its youth, it offers classic abv: 14% Price: $58 abv: 14.54% Price: $60
elements of game, garrigue and white pepper. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $42
93 Vino Noceto 2018 Misto (Shenandoah Val-
ley). Packed with an herbal, mineral com- 92 Quivira 2018 Wine Creek Ranch G-S-M (Dry
Creek Valley). Letting 60% Grenache lead

93 Gainey 2017 Patrick’s Vineyard Selection

(Santa Ynez Valley). Grilled red-cherry, dark
plexity, this intricate wine weaves together scents
of iron, olives, cedar and plum that lead to a mod-
the way with companionship from 20% each of
Syrah and Mourvèdre, this well-made wine is fruity

WINEMAG.COM | 165
BUYINGGUIDE
in strawberry and nicely savory in cedar, dried herb
and lavender. Rounded, juicy and complex, it takes
a light touch to the varietal gaminess and intrigue of
91 Darcie Kent Vineyards 2016 Choreography
(Livermore Valley). Well structured and nicely
concentrated, this full-bodied wine trims its core of
into a spicy palate of black raspberry and anise. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.6% Price: $65
garrigue and white pepper. —V.B. focused black-cherry flavors with accents of ginger
abv: 14.3% Price: $40 and nutmeg that add attractive complexity and inter-
est. —J.G. 91 The Farm Winery 2017 The Big Game (Adelaida
District). A rusty minerality balances the ripe

92 Robert Renzoni 2016 Sonata (Temecula

Valley). Baked cherries, toasted oak, iodine
abv: 14.5% Price: $60 strawberry- and cherry-sorbet aromas on the nose
of this fresh blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon,
and charcuterie aromas converge on the nose of this
bottling. The salted, dried meat flavors of the pal-
ate sink into crushed cranberry as a chalky tension
91 Doffo 2018 Mistura (Temecula Valley). Wild-
berry-syrup aromas meet with fennel, herbs
and roasted root vegetables on the nose of this
21% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot. There is a bright-
ness to the sip, which snaps with ripe cherry and
raspberry before the baking-spice flavors file in for
frames this smooth and spicy wine. —M.K. blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Syrah. the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $40 It’s lands with a rich mouthfeel yet ample tannic abv: 14.2% Price: $75
tension, delivering warm strawberry, cardamom

92 The Farm Winery 2017 Primal Scream (Ade-

laida District). Black plum, smoked meat,
cracked pepper and anise are impactful aromas
and star anise flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $62 91 The Farm Winery 2017 Touchy-Feely (Ade-
laida District). A light color in the glass, this
blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah offers tart
on the nose of this blend of 63% Syrah and 37%
Grenache. The palate is cohesive in flavors, offering
layers of roasted fig, mulberry, seasoning salt and
91 Epiphany 2018 Inspiration (Santa Barbara
County). Violet- and lilac-sachet aromas
meet with dark strawberry and Concord grape on
plums, pomegranate and wild-sagebrush aromas
on the nose. There’s a pleasant rusticity to the sip,
where smoked fennel and salami flavors meet with
dried flower. —M.K. the nose of this blend of 42% Mourvèdre, 27% complex coffee and cranberry elements. Editors’
abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Counoise, 26% Cinsault and 5% Grenache. Dark Choice. —M.K.
floral tones arise on the sip, from lavender to inky abv: 14.9% Price: $60

92 Y Rousseau 2017 Son of a Butcher (Califor-

nia). Wonderfully focused black-fruit fla-
vors light up this full-bodied but agile wine based
rose petal, with hints of brighter elderflower as
well, all laid atop dark-plum fruit. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $29 90 Berryessa Gap NV Gozar (Yolo County). This
extremely likeable, well-balanced wine lifts
on Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Fresh ripe blackberry and plum flavors with light tannins
blackberry, blueberry and black-currant notes wake
up the palate while mild tannins and a hint of lively
acidity keep them singing through a lingering fin-
91 Kale 2015 Broken Axle Stagecoach Vineyard
Syrah-Grenache (Napa Valley). Made from
61% Syrah and 39% Grenache, this is a deeply con-
and a touch of good acidity. It’s medium to full bodied,
has good concentration and subtle oak spices. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $17
ish. —J.G. centrated, thickly rich and brooding wine, leathery
abv: 14.5% Price: $21 in layers of blueberry, plum and dark cherry. Fruity,
it is also savory and earthy, with a broad softness to 90 Broc Cellars 2019 Love Red (North Coast).
The beautifully fresh and ripe black-cherry

91 1850 2018 Meritage (Fair Play). This tightly

wrapped young wine is firmly tannic and
needs time to evolve for optimum pleasure. It offers
the tannins and texture. —V.B.
abv: 15.4% Price: $70
and raspberry aromas of this natural-style, light-
bodied wine are backed by an earthy touch in the fla-
vors, which are nicely braced by slightly tangy acid-
classic Bordeaux aromas of black currant and mint
followed by abundant tangy flavors of cranberry and
red cherry. Best from 2025. —J.G.
91 Mediterranean Vineyards 2018 Rosso di Baci
Estate (Fair Play). This deep and well-con-
centrated wine overflows with blackberry, dark-
ity. The wine is outright fruity and gulpable. —J.G.
abv: 12.5% Price: $22

abv: 13.5% Price: $28 chocolate and cedar flavors on a moderately tannic,
almost chewy texture that coats the palate. It is well 90 Doffo 2018 Motodoffo Super Tinto (Tem-
ecula Valley). Dark cherry and berry

91 Comartin 2018 Cuvée Cassidy G-S-M (Santa

Ynez Valley). There’s a wild-fennel scent
on the nose of this blend of 50% Grenache, 35%
balanced and inviting as well as bold. —J.G.
abv: 126% Price: $28
aromas meet with turned earth, tar and lico-
rice on the nose of this motorcycle-themed
blend. There is just enough tension on the
Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, alongside dark straw-
berry, black plum and spice-spiked pastry. Toasted
sagebrush and fennel frond show on the sip as do
91 Opolo 2018 Grand Rouge (Paso Robles). Baked
and roasted red fruits are sprinkled with nut-
meg, mace and cinnamon on the well rounded nose
palate to hold the blackberry-sauce, fennel-
pollen and wild-thyme flavors together. —M.K.
abv: 13.7% Price: $55
roasted red plums and lingering oak. —M.K. of this bottling. The palate balances freshly smashed
abv: 14.4% Price: $45 red plums with smoke, pepper and a toasted vanilla
finish. —M.K. 90 Europa Village 2018 Libido Artist Series
(Temecula Valley). Smoky red-fruit aromas

91 Comartin 2017 Porterhouse Reserve (Santa

Ynez Valley). Blistered black plum, baked
abv: 14.5% Price: $22 are dusted with dried herbs and seasoning salt on
the nose of this blend of 50% Tempranillo, 35%
soil and hard spices show on the nose of this Petite
Sirah-led blend that is a nod to Adam Comartin’s
family of butchers. It’s more interesting and cohe-
91 So Fresh 2020 Own Rooted Field Blend (Bal-
lard Canyon). The carbonic aromas leap off
the glass of this bottling, which begins with aromas
Syrah and 15% Garnacha. There’s just enough ten-
sion to the sip, where dark leather and ripe fruit fla-
vors fight for attention. —M.K.
sive on the palate, where smashed blackberry, of snappy black raspberry and white pepper. Zippy abv: 14.7% Price: $35
black-pepper and crushed herb flavors align. —M.K. acidity deliver clean flavors of dark-fruit punch and
abv: 14.4% Price: $55 more delicate spice. —M.K.
abv: 13.4% Price: $48 90 Kale 2015 Home Run Cuvée Kick Ranch Vine-
yard Syrah-Grenache (Fountaingrove Dis-

91 CrossHatch 2017 Shading Kaerskov Vineyard

(Los Olivos District). Rounded aromas of baked
black plum, clove and mace meet with roasted meats 91 Sunstone 2018 Carmelo (Santa Barbara
County). The peppery spices of the 52%
trict). Made from 55% Syrah and 45% Grenache,
this shows smooth, velvety ripeness and a wealth
of oak spice. Dark-chocolate notes complement a
on the nose of this single-vineyard blend of 50% Syrah are amplified by the also peppery 24% Caber- richness of blueberry compote, tobacco and leather,
Grenache, 25% Syrah and 25% Mourvèdre. There’s net Franc in this blend that also includes 15% Mer- with an expansive finish. —V.B.
a lot of baking spice on the sip, where grape-jelly and lot and 9% Grenache. Aromas of scorched wood, abv: 15.4% Price: $49
liquefied purple-flower flavors also show. —M.K. cracked black pepper, light tar and cranberry lead
abv: 14% Price: $38

166 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

90 Level 3 2017 Driven (Paso Robles). Roasted
blackberry sauce, smoke, dried herbs and
pepper aromas show on the nose of this blend of
example of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, yet bril-
liantly realized. Tight, tough and tannic, it’s packed
with mountain blackberry fruit, framed with sharp
express themselves in unique ways. Here the Pom-
mard fruit brings ripe strawberry, raspberry and
pomegranate flavors, with ample acidity. Underly-
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 25% herbs and finished with residual flavors of black tea. ing all of that is a distinctive minerality, a touch of
Cabernet Franc. Tart cherry and berry flavors kick Drink 2025–2035. Cellar Selection. —P.G. herb, a steely spine and a finish with a dash of sweet
off the sip, then come waves of herbs, with potent abv: 13.6% Price: $60 baking spices. This unique, iconic estate is one of
acidity throughout. —M.K. Oregon’s treasures. —P.G.
abv: 14.8% Price: $45
95 Domaine Divio 2019 Kalita Vineyard Côte à
Côte Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). For full
abv: 13.7% Price: $60

90 Lexington 2017 Apex Gist Ranch Estate

(Santa Cruz Mountains). Aromas of black-
berry and violet show on the tart nose of this blend of
review see page 106. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.9% Price: $60 94 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Basalt Block Pinot
Noir (McMinnville). Tangy boysenberry,
blueberry and marionberry fruit come through loud
76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc and
1% Merlot. The palate picks up touches of oregano
and thyme that lift the piquant berry flavors. —M.K.
95 Ken Wright 2018 Canary Hill Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The depth
of this wine is exceptional. Young, tight, tannic
and clear, with a savory streak and supporting acid-
ity that provides a tart frame. The wine was aged in
18% new oak, and what shines through is the fruit
abv: 14.5% Price: $100 and herbal, it nonetheless takes a deep dive down and acidity mix, along with the defining steely min-
through the palate. You’ll notice black fruits, tart erality of the site. Aged one year in 18% new French

90 Mediterranean Vineyards 2018 G-S-M (Fair

Play). This concentrated and full-bodied
wine goes for full ripeness in its core of black fruits,
citrus, fresh herbs, green tea and lemon rind flavors
as you explore the depths. This needs more time,
to be sure, but it should integrate and expand its
oak, it will benefit from additional bottle age. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.1% Price: $60
offers ample oak seasoning and moderate tannins for flavors beautifully over the coming years. Editors’
grip. It is broad, generous and mouthfilling. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $28
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $63 94 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Cygnus Block Pinot
Noir (McMinnville). Complex from the get-
go, this marries brambly red fruits to light streaks

90 Rowen Wine Co. 2017 Red (Sonoma County).

For full review see page 132.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
94 Alloro 2018 Estate Riservata Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). The Riservata gets
more (46%) new French oak than the regular estate
of caramel, toasted hazelnuts and buttery toast. It’s
made from the unusual Swan clone, a California
import that dates from the 1800s. Robert Brittan
bottling. It’s half Pommard, which pumps up the planted three acres of it in 2008 at his estate vine-

90 Tizona by Bokisch 2018 La Colada (Lodi).

This serious, full-bodied wine is deep in
smoky, black-fruit flavors and well-structured
blue and purple fruits, and the barrel flavors are
smoothly integrated. There’s a seam of espresso, a
dash of baking spices, ripe and slightly grainy tan-
yard. The flavors are unique and persistent, with
underlying minerality and lovely texture. One-quar-
ter was aged in new French oak. —P.G.
with moderate tannins for a slightly grippy texture. nins, and a long glide through the finish. It’s a most abv: 14.1% Price: $60
Blackberries and espresso are among its bold fla- satisfying reserve, which rewards the extra expense
vors. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $32
with deeper, richer flavors. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60 94 Domaine De Broglie 2018 Block B Clone
114 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This
reserve sees more new French oak (44%) than the

90 Vino Noceto 2018 Mistura 180 Selection

(Shenandoah Valley). This full-bodied
wine strikes a good balance between fruit concen-
94 Alloro 2017 Estate Justina Pinot Noir (Che-
halem Mountains). Justina is the winery’s
top reserve level cuvée, priced a notch above the
other Pinots in the lineup, and the higher alcohol
suggests that is was sourced from the ripest section
of the ripest block, which was planted in 1999. It’s
tration and deft oak spices. Aromas of mint, cedar Riservata. It is a best barrel selection, and is given flush with blackberry and black cherry fruit, barrel
and cinnamon lead to a firm, moderately tannic tex- extra exposure to new French oak. Tasted alongside toast, hints of coconut and vanilla, and ripe tannins
ture supporting generous blackberry and raspberry the Riservata, the Justina is darker and toastier, that carry a flavor of Bourbon tea. All in all it’s cer-
flavors. —J.G. with more coffee-toned tannins. In other words, tainly deserving of reserve status, though perhaps
abv: 13.7% Price: $39 bigger in every way. The black fruits are ripe and better for drinking than aging. Enjoy this over the
polished and stand up to the new barrel influence, next half decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

90 Wild Diamond 2017 Single Vineyard (Lake

County). Deep flavors and a firm but tan-
plumping up the palate with a burst of blueberry,
blackberry and black cherry. Tannins are fully ripe,
abv: 14.9% Price: $75

nic texture give this full-bodied wine an imposing

expression, coating the palate with fine-grained
tannins and holding delicious blackberry and cassis
and the finish brings a wash of baking spices that
cover any astringency. By any measure it’s a thor-
oughly delicious bottle of Pinot Noir. —P.G.
94 Domaine Divio 2019 Kalita Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). The wine was aged
in 30% new oak, and those fresh scents of cedar
flavors tightly. It needs more time to show its best abv: 14.2% Price: $95 shavings come up as soon as it’s poured. In this
stuff. Drink from 2025. —J.G. lighter vintage the elegant side of the grape is
abv: 14.5% Price: $48
94 Bethel Heights 2018 Flat Block Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). Now 40 years old, these
own-rooted Pommard vines deliver subtle complex-
emphasized, with no diminution of depth or com-
plexity. Raspberry, cherry, chocolate and a slim
thread of root beer come up, and the wine gathers
OREGON ity around tart blackberry fruit. Lightly herbal, with strength through the finish, trailing out subtle tea-
accents of breakfast tea and lemon pulp, it keeps the flavored tannins. —P.G.
PINOT NOIR flavors lingering and developing long past the first abv: 13.5% Price: $60
swallow. It gives every indication of having the bal-

95 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Gestalt Block Pinot

Noir (McMinnville). The Brittan wines are
all estate grown and designated by the particular
ance, precision and depth to age gracefully, though
it is not a muscular, ripe wine. Drink now to 2035.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
94 Ken Wright 2018 Savoya Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton). Black cherry jumps out,
with some Dr Pepper accents. This is a dark, spicy
soils underlying the different blocks of vines. Here abv: 13.5% Price: $60 wine with appealing sweetness to the fruit and the
the underlying basalt reduces crop load to less than spices. They are backed with a phenolic frame of
one ton of fruit an acre, a miniscule reward for the
work involved. The strong Van Duzer winds thicken
the skins, punching up tannins. This is an extreme
94 Bethel Heights 2018 Southeast Block Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The various block
selections from this old-vine estate vineyard
sharp and bitter herbs, nicely positioned and pro-
portionate. The overall impact is to enhance the
depth and detail of the wine. This is muscular, sub-

WINEMAG.COM | 167
BUYINGGUIDE
stantial, slightly earthy and just tannic enough to wine that resolves in accents of black olive and bert Vineyard seem to have a spine of steel. Where
age gracefully. —P.G. green tea. —P.G. once were filberts, now are vines, and though
abv: 13.4% Price: $63 abv: 13.5% Price: $56 seemingly young, they already capture the defin-
ing strengths of the Dundee Hills. Flavors of blood

94 Nicolas-Jay 2018 L’Ensemble Pinot Noir (Wil-

lamette Valley). For full review see page 110.
Cellar Selection.
93 Bethel Heights 2018 West Block Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). There’s a burst of tart
raspberry and lemon rind right off the top, above
orange and tart raspberry, scents of rose petals and
baking spices, and even, well-managed tannins lead
on through the extended finish. This wine should
abv: 13.5% Price: $65 an earthy foundation reflective of the AVA as much continue to improve and drink well over the course
as the vineyard. These are old vines, first planted in of the decade. —P.G.

94 Panther Creek 2018 Carter Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The wine punches
1977, and they don’t quit on the details, which accu-
mulate through the finish. Light touches of blood
abv: 13% Price: $120

up the front of the palate with 50% new French

oak, but it keeps the fruit-barrel proportions in bal-
ance. The tart and citrus-infused flavors of black-
orange, milk chocolate, cola and more are threaded
through this delicious bottle. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $60
93 Ken Wright 2018 Bonnie Jean Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine shows its
complexity right off the bat, with mixed threads
berries and marionberries go well with the dark of rhubarb, lemon verbena, wild strawberry, sweet
chocolate barrel highlights. This is as smooth as a
buttery candy bar, but the focused finishing tannins
keep it tight all the way to the end. —P.G.
93 Brooks 2018 Red Letter Pinot Noir (Willa-
mette Valley). For full review see page 113.
Cellar Selection.
cherry, tarragon and a hint of wet hay. Subtle and
sensual, it has the acidity to age over a decade or
more and should develop fascinating aromas as well
abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 14.8% Price: $80 as deep flavors. Drink 2023–2032. Cellar Selec-
tion. —P.G.

94 Panther Creek 2018 Kalita Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). A coffee and cream 93 Brooks 2018 Toluca Lane Pinot Noir (Eola-
Amity Hills). Bedecked with toasty, coffee-
abv: 13.4% Price: $63

streak opens and energizes this wine. It’s got ripe

raspberry and cherry fruit in the wingman seat, and
together the fruit and barrels hyper charge the fla-
flavored spices, this lovely wine is also loaded with
black cherry fruit. Streaks of espresso and dark
chocolate run right down the spine, adding detail
93 Ken Wright 2018 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Lush aromas of
blueberry and blackberry fruit open this wine, coat-
vors right from the start. But this wine doesn’t stop and length. A touch of clean earth brings more ing the palate with extra nuances of almond butter.
there. The depth and length continue to add flavors, depth, and the tannins are perfectly ripened. —P.G. The lovely fruit flavors persist, but the wine takes a
with fig and plum and dark chocolate, all in perfect abv: 14.7% Price: $50 deeper dive with textured flavors that add chocolate
balance. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and nougat and more. This is exceptionally well-
abv: 14.2% Price: $50
93 Domaine De Broglie 2018 Block C Clone 777
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is the first
balanced and fruit forward and has the complexity
you expect from this iconic vineyard. —P.G.

94 Panther Creek 2018 Lazy River Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Smooth and
vintage for this former Vista Hills property since
it was purchased by Francis Ford Coppola and
abv: 12.9% Price: $63

rich flavors of toasted coconut, milk chocolate, but-

ter and caramel envelope the pretty raspberry fruit.
The acid-tannin balance is spot-on, and the aging in
rebranded as Domaine de Broglie. The site continu-
ity is provided by winemaker-general manager Dave
Petterson. This clonal selection has an interesting
93 Panther Creek 2018 De Ponte Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). A strong coffee and
cream streak rides atop this lush and flavorful wine,
50% new French oak is seamlessly integrated and note of rye cracker, plenty of dark black cherry fruit aged in 50% new French oak. Those toasty high-
brings on nuances of coffee grounds and toasted and highlights of barrel spices. About 30% of the lights are perfectly integrated into the rich black
hazelnuts. As with all of the winery’s 2018s, this is barrels were new. Enjoy this now, or tuck it away for cherry fruit. There’s a hint of iron as well, and taken
a delicious and almost irresistible wine. Drink this another half decade. —P.G. all in all this captures the core characteristics of the
and all of the Panther Creek 2018s over the next five abv: 14.6% Price: $58 AVA perfectly. —P.G.
years for maximum pleasure. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $45
abv: 14.3% Price: $45
93 Domaine De Broglie 2018 Block G Pommard
Clone Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Sourced
92 Alexana 2018 Revana Vineyard Single Clone

93 Alexana 2018 Block 8 Clone 777 Pinot Noir

(Dundee Hills). A single clone, single block
selection from the estate vineyard, this pins its fla-
from the former Vista Hills Vineyard, now owned by
Francis Ford Coppola, this sports appealing mari-
onberry and black cherry jam flavors backed with
Pommard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Known
for its juicy, fruity exuberance, the Pommard clone
delivers just that. Tangy blackberry fruit is accented
vors to a very specific terroir. Some of the AVA’s citrus and a streak of fresh lemony herbs. Aged 16 with peppery spice. The tannins are full and flavor-
signature iron is in evidence, along with a peppery months in French oak, roughly one-fifth new, it’s ful, with a mix of breakfast tea and black olive high-
spiciness. The bold black fruits come through crisp toasty but well-balanced for aging, and remains lights. The acidity is also prominent, and time will
and detailed, with black raspberry, blackberry and juicy and fresh for near-term drinking. Editors’ tell if or when this all pulls itself into a complete
black cherry in the mix. There’s an earthy founda- Choice. —P.G. and seamless whole. —P.G.
tion under medium-ripe tannins that bring a touch abv: 14.2% Price: $58 abv: 13.9% Price: $75
of black olive. This is an exceptional wine that
should evolve nicely through the rest of the decade.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $125
93
Choice.
Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). For full review see page 113. Editors’ 92 Alloro 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem
Mountains). All of the wines are estate
grown and under the care of winemaker-general
abv: 13.7% Price: $48 manager Tom Fitzpatrick. Seamless and supple, this

93 Bethel Heights 2018 Justice Vineyard Estate

Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Grapes from
this distinctive estate vineyard are featured in both 93 Domaine Divio 2019 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carl-
ton). For full review see page 113. Editors’
wine is layered with blackberry, currant, black olive
and coffee. It’s slightly smoky, in a good way, and
the back palate is threaded with astringent tea leaf
a designated Chardonnay and this Pinot Noir. There Choice. tannins. It’s a complete and cellarable wine, already
is an underlying seashell minerality reminiscent of abv: 14.1% Price: $60 drinking well, but give it some extra aeration. It was
some Ribbon Ridge wines, and the core black fruits aged 11 months in 27% new oak barrels. —P.G.
show steely highlights. It’s a sturdy, tight, compact
93 Domaine Roy & Fils 2019 Iron Filbert Vine-
yard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The name
intrigues, and the wines sourced from the Iron Fil-
abv: 14.2% Price: $45

168 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

92 Argyle 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This is a four-vineyard blend,
scented and framed with toasty oak. The midpalate
92 Domaine Divio 2019 Karta Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The Ribbon Ridge AVA
seems to deliver extra nuanced flavors and textures
blueberry fruit, clove spices, moderating acidity and
a textural mouthfeel highlighted with refreshing
wet rock minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
fruit blends blackberry, blueberry and plum, with to many of the wines grown there. The fruit in this abv: 12.8% Price: $35
a dash of chocolate. The tannins have an appealing single-vineyard selection mixes white raspberry
ruggedness, and add a green tea note to the finish.
The wine was aged 16 months in 30% new French
oak. —P.G.
and lemony citrus with sweet baking spices. The
back palate brings out the underlying minerality,
along with a subtle salty note. Overall the wine has
92 Lemelson 2017 Meyer Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Richly fruity with a lush mix
of blackberry and savory herbs, this is a forward,
abv: 14% Price: $40 great texture and a lingering, balanced finish. —P.G. well-structured wine that brings a hint of iron ore.
abv: 13.5% Price: $58 A whiff of smoke trails through the finish, along

92 Big Table Farm 2019 Earth Pinot Noir (Willa-

mette Valley). The winery’s 2019 Chardon-
nays and Pinots are finished at significantly lower 92 Domaine Divio 2019 Louis Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). A block selection from the estate
with some stiffer tannins. It was aged 15 months in
43% new French oak and the rest once filled. —P.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $48
alcohols than previous vintages, which implies early vineyard, these young (fifth year) vines rock out
picking and less ripened fruit. With the Pinots this
brings up an earthy, somewhat stemmy note, which
toughens the tannins and adds a darker herbal fla-
with bold flavors of blueberry, golden plum and
black cherry. Aging in one-third new oak brings a
toasty frame that in no way obscures the delicious
92 Nysa Vineyard 2016 Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). Estate-grown fruit from this famous
vineyard brings rich aromas of black fruits, smoke
vor. Let this wine breathe, and the aromas and fla- fruit. As is often true of young vines, the vibrant and Bing cherry. In the mouth those fruits are sup-
vors will start to open up, bringing a fragrant mix fruit is the star, and the wine should be enjoyed in ported by a broad streak of roasted espresso beans,
of brambly blackberries, chamomile tea and lemony its youth. —P.G. along with well-balanced notes of earth, herb and
acidity. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $58 leaf. A hint of baking spices sneaks through the fin-
abv: 13.1% Price: $105 ish. —P.G.

92 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Estate Pinot Noir 92 Domaine Roy & Fils 2018 Pinot Noir (Willa-
mette Valley). Smooth and generous, this is
abv: 13.5% Price: $75

(McMinnville). This is a sophisticated rep-

resentation of the AVA, showing its steely mineral-
ity first and foremost. The brambly berry fruit is a
bursting with flavors of blueberry and cherry pie.
Sourced from both estate vineyards and aged on the
lees for just under a year in 10% new French oak, it
92 Open Claim 2018 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This dark and fragrant wine offers
pretty blueberry compote scents and flavors. The
bit constricted, with flavors suggesting mountain- shows polished tannins, light floral notes and a hint fruit is backed with green tea tannins and a phe-
grown wild berries. There’s a stiff phenolic spine to of baking spices in a trailing finish. —P.G. nolic frame that keeps the focus firmly on the mix
the wine, but the overall mix of fruit, rock, savory abv: 14.2% Price: $39 of blue and black fruit through the finish. Aged 16
herb, acidity and tannin suggests it’s a good candi- months in one-quarter new French oak, this should
date for aging. Roll the dice and drink now through
2032. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.7% Price: $45
92 Fox Farm 2018 Weber Vineyard Reserve Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). All Pommard clone, this
shows the forward, friendly fruity signature of the
drink nicely over the next half decade. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75

92 Brooks 2018 Crannell Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity

Hills). The blackberry-black cherry fruit is
grape. It’s got a solid, pleasing foundation of blue-
berry, plum and cherry fruit, buoyed with lemony
acidity. There are fresh herbs in abundance also,
92 Panther Creek 2018 Maverick Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Young vines already
showing great power bring bold, pungently savory
augmented with coffee and char, all in proportion. nicely integrated through a smooth finish. —P.G. flavors front and center. The palate is flush with
Baking spices are also prominent, and the flavors abv: 14.2% Price: $48 juicy blackberry fruit and packs a punch right on
overall are beautifully integrated, albeit with a through the finish. It resonates with peppery herb
strong flavor of mocha. Drink over the next three
years. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
92 Irvine & Roberts 2017 Elevation Block Pinot
Noir (Rogue Valley). Simply delicious, this
opens with warm fruit flavors of berry, cherry and
and stiff black tea tannins. Aged in one-third new
barrels, this has the sort of Pinot power that can
stand up to smoked and grilled meats. —P.G.
blood orange, augmented with a broad streak of abv: 14% Price: $45

92 David Hill 2019 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot

Noir (Willamette Valley). This lovely wine
is perfectly balanced with its components of plum,
tobacco and a hint of bitter herbs. After 14 months
in one-third new French oak barrels it retains a
fruit-forward style with the barrel flavors in the 92 Patton Valley 2017 Lorna-Marie Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This barrel selection
blueberry and cherry fruit, toasty oak, light baking background. This is all 115 clone, with firm tannins reserve gets a bit extra (28%) new oak. It’s a blend
spices, a splash of coffee and a thread of iron through and excellent balance throughout. —P.G. of Dijon 115, Wädenswil and Pommard clones, fer-
the ripe but elegant tannins. It’s a pleasure to taste abv: 14.1% Price: $60 mented with native yeasts. Immediately appeal-
such a young wine so well proportioned. Drink now ing, it matches black cherry fruit to sweet baking
and into the 2030s. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1% Price: $50 92 Irvine & Roberts 2017 The Discovery Pinot
Noir (Rogue Valley). This all-Pommard
clonal selection features bright flavors of blueberry,
spices, with moderate and ripe tannins for support.
It’s well integrated and shows good balance overall.
The finish brings accents of tobacco, black tea and

92 Domaine De Broglie 2018 Block A Clone 114

Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Rich and toasty,
this estate-grown clonal selection is bursting with
blue plum and black cherry. It’s got that young
vine insouciance, with in-your-face flavors sharply
accented with phenolics and a streak of root beer.
black olives. It should drink nicely over the next half
decade. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $80
tart cherry fruit and spicy barrel flavors. It was Aging for 14 months in 38% new French oak puts a
sourced from the former Vista Hills Vineyard,
which is now owned by Francis Ford Coppola and
has been rebranded as the Domaine de Broglie Vine-
rich toasty frame around the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $60 92 Phelps Creek 2018 Beehive Pinot Noir
(Columbia Gorge). This is all Dijon 777
clone, and it’s showing some pretty berry and choc-
yard. Vista Hills winemaker Dave Petterson remains
at the winemaking helm. Scents and accents of aro-
matic cedar add interest all the way through the fin-
92 Ken Wright 2019 AVA Pinot Noir (Yamhill-
Carlton). Known for single-vineyard wines,
Ken Wright is introducing a new set of AVA-spe-
olate flavors framed in savory herbs and finished
with stiff skin and stem-inflected tannins. The core
of this wine is soft and fruity and lovely, but the
ish. —P.G. cific Pinots. This wine is particularly significant, tannins put some bitterness into it as it trails out
abv: 14.5% Price: $58 as Wright was the man behind the application for
the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. The flavors bring together

WINEMAG.COM | 169
BUYINGGUIDE
the finish. Additional bottle age is recommended, so
drink after 2023. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $54
almost austere, with light, bright flavors. It’s thor-
oughly delightful. —S.S.
abv: 11.8% Price: $28
90 SMAK 2020 Fall/Winter Rosé (Columbia
Valley). Designed as rosé to get us through
the fall and winter months, it’s a fuller styled offer-
ing. Showing a tinge of pale copper color, the aro-

92 Phelps Creek 2018 Regina Pommard Clone

Selection Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge).
Estate grown and single clone, this has a spicy,
91 Grosgrain 2020 Blush Angiolina Farm Gre-
nache Rosé (Yakima Valley). A very pretty
pale copper color, this is all Grenache, fermented
mas are bright and appealing, with notes of melon
and cut yellow apple. The palate is full in feel, tex-
tured, flavorful and well-balanced. A zing of acidity
herbal aroma, full-bodied black fruits and sub- and aged in concrete (80%) and stainless steel. The ties it all together. —S.S.
stantial, almost gritty tannins. It’s a muscle wine, aromas start out brooding, with notes of mineral, abv: 12.7% Price: $18
streaked with mineral and concentrated in the back strawberry, grapefruit and melon rind. The palate
palate, suggesting that it could well continue to
evolve over the rest of the decade. The finish brings
pleasing highlights of tobacco, with the textural
is light, bright, textured and delicious, with citrus
rind flavors on the finish. It’s a winner. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
90 SMAK 2020 Spring Rosé (Walla Walla
Valley). Valley designated rosés are rare
beasts. Like its littermates from the vintage, this
complexity of nearly 30-year-old vines. —P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $20 wine is quite pale in color. Aromas of Jolly Rancher,
abv: 14.2% Price: $54 star fruit and rhubarb are followed by medium-bod-

92 Ponzi 2017 Pinot Noir (Laurelwood District).

A late release from Ponzi (now owned by
91 Julia’s Dazzle 2020 Rosé (Columbia Valley).
For full review see page 125. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1% Price: $18
ied, textured citrus and melon flavors. It has body
but remains pleasingly light on its feet, with plenty
of acidity. —S.S.
Champagne Bollinger), this tasty, toasty, spicy wine abv: 12.3% Price: $18
is ready for immediate drinking. A mix of estate
and purchased fruit, all designed to showcase the
newly approved Laurelwood District AVA, is in the
91 Prospice 2020 Lonesome Spring Ranch Rosé
(Yakima Valley). This rare vineyard desig-
nated rosé is just a smidgen under half Grenache, 90 SMAK 2020 Summer Rosé (Columbia Val-
ley). Showing just a tinge of color such that
bottle. It was aged 14 months in 20% new oak, and with the rest nearly equal parts Cinsault and Cou- it could pass as a white wine, this rosé has aromas
another 10 months post-bottling. Jasmine tea, root noise. The aromas bring notes of mountain straw- of apple, pear and whiffs of tropical fruit, followed
beer, cherry pastry and lemon meringue flavors are berry and watermelon. Tart, drier than bone-dry, by medium-bodied, juicy flavors. The acidity keeps
all in view. This delicious wine should be enjoyed puckering, sprightly flavors follow. It’s almost aus- it all in focus. —S.S.
over the next three or four years. —P.G. tere initially, releasing its grip over time and giving abv: 13.5% Price: $18
abv: 14.1% Price: $45 up the goods. Decant. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.

92 Ribbon Ridge Winery 2018 RR Ridgecrest

abv: 12.5% Price: $22
90 XOBC 2019 Evangeline Rosé (Walla Walla
Valley). A pretty pale copper color, with
Vineyards Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). This is quite tannic, with a chewy palate
that suggests a fair amount of whole clusters were
90 Kerloo 2020 Lonesome Springs Ranch Rosé
(Yakima Valley). A blend of 60% Grenache
and 40% Mourvèdre with all of the fruit coming
aromas of watermelon and cherry, followed by full-
feeling flavors. It’s an enjoyable, medium-bodied
pink. —S.S.
used. Slightly more than half the barrels were new, from Lonesome Springs Ranch Vineyard, this wine abv: 12.2% Price: $NA
and this reserve is fashioned from some of the old- is pale copper in color. The aromas bring notes
est vines in the AVA. Blackberry, black cherry, cedar of concrete, whole lemon and, initially, whiffs of
plank and espresso flavors are in play. The fruit cheese that dissipate over time. The palate is light, CABERNET SAUVIGNON
is lovely, but more bottle age is recommended to bright and fresh. A big blast of racy acidity ties it all
soften up the tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.6% Price: $69
together. —S.S.
abv: 11.7% Price: $26 98 Quilceda Creek 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page
103. Cellar Selection.

WASHINGTON 90 Kind Stranger 2020 Rosé (Columbia Val-

ley). This is a blend of Grenache (49%),
abv: 14.8% Price: $200

ROSÉS
Mourvèdre (39%) and Cinsault. It’s pale enough in
color that it could pass as a white wine. The aromas
bring notes of strawberry, watermelon and melon
97 Betz Family 2018 Heart of the Hill Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). The
aromas intrigue, with notes of bay leaf, raspberry

92 Devison 2020 East of the Sun Boushey

Vineyard Rosé (Yakima Valley). A blend of
78% Mourvèdre and 22% Grenache, this native
rind. Dry, light star fruit flavors follow. It’s a won-
derfully breezy pink. —S.S.
abv: 12.2% Price: $17
compote and cherry, showing dazzling purity. On
the palate, boom! There are rich, highly structured,
impeccably balanced flavors. The finish is endless.
fermented wine coming from one of the state’s It wins on all counts, but it’s the balance that truly
top vineyards is quickly becoming a benchmark
rosé for Washington. It’s pale copper, with aromas
showing complexity, with notes of citrus zest, yel-
90 Pursued by Bear 2020 Blushing Bear Rosé
(Columbia Valley). A blend of 60% Gre-
nache and 40% Mourvèdre, this wine is a touch
separates this wine. It’s a time capsule of this vin-
tage that will show beautifully whenever you decide
to open it. Best 2030–2040. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
low strawberry, whole watermelon and wet rock. reduced out of the gate, with notes of white straw- abv: 14% Price: $120
Fleshy, textured but still brisk flavors follow, with a berry and watermelon rind underneath. The palate
lot of acidity behind it all. It brings complexity and
seriousness but with no shortage of outright enjoy-
ment. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
is broad in feel. It has great stuffing with plenty of
enjoyment once it opens up. Don’t forget to feel the
label. —S.S.
96 Leonetti Cellar 2018 Serra Pedace Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley).
One of four vineyard designates in the winery’s
abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 12.9% Price: $28 lineup, this is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The
aromas boast notes of graphite, savory herb, black

91 Eight Bells 2020 Mourvèdre Red Willow Vine-

yard Rosé (Yakima Valley). This is a rare
example of a pink wine from this esteemed vineyard.
90 Sin Banderas 2020 Rosé (Yakima Valley).
A pretty pale peach color, the aromas bring
notes of watermelon and mountain strawberry. Fuller
cherry, anise and espresso. The palate explodes with
dark, rich, creamy, seamless fruit flavors. The finish
rolls into the distance. It’s shockingly good. Don’t
The aromas bring notes of strawberry and melon, feeling flavors follow, bringing a slightly creamy feel. touch until at least 2032. It will last as long as you
with a light candied note. The palate is bone-dry, The acidity impresses. It aims for a richer style and keep it. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
hits it, with the acidity delivering. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $138
abv: 13% Price: $19

170 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

96 Passing Time 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Horse Heaven Hills). Discovery Caber-
net makes up a full half of this wine, with the rest
lush, ripe black cherry flavors. The tannins are pol-
ished to a fine sheen, and it shows a compelling tex-
ture. The finish carries. This is an outright delicious
92 Col Solare 2017 Collector’s Society Cabernet
Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Intriguing aro-
mas of black tea, black fruit and assorted herbs in
from Champoux (41%) and The Benches. Blended offering of the variety, with lots of pure hedonism this 100% varietal lead to notes of cherry, pome-
with 9% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this wine but no shortage of class. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. granate and cocoa. The flavors are deft and pretty,
is locked up tightly out of the gate, with notes of abv: 14.3% Price: $60 showing a lovely texture and sneaky richness. Anise
dried herb, coffee, black cherry leaf, spice, bitter- and cherry notes linger on the long finish, kicking
sweet chocolate and scorched earth. The flavors
are bold and rich, with oodles of sophistication.
There’s impressive layering, midpalate density and
93 Devison 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-
bia Valley). The aromas offer immediate
appeal, with notes of green and black tea, black
it up a notch. It’s a pretty, polished offering of the
variety. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $95
structure. The finish is eternal. Full of intensity, cherry, crushed granite, whole coffee bean, cedar,
sophistication and grace, it’s one for the ages. Cel-
lar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $85
plum and smoke, showing complexity. The palate
brings abundant structure and layers of fruit fla-
vors. Lightly grainy tannins back it all up. Best after
92 Col Solare 2017 Tenuta Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Red Mountain). The aromas of this
100% varietal are locked up out of the gate, open-
2026 with plenty of rewards to be had well beyond ing to reveal notes of barrel spice, black cherry

95 Betz Family 2018 Père de Famille Cabernet

Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is a wine
for the ages. Aromas of thyme, the blackest of cher-
that. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $59
and raspberry. The palate packs a punch of velvety
fruit flavors that show polish and sophistication.
The balance is exquisite. Best after 2025. Cellar
ries, licorice, bay leaf and spice are followed by out-
right delicious, plump fruit flavors. There’s a whole
lot of primary fruit, with ample structure to hang it
93 Fidelitas 2018 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Aromas of
char, barrel spice, herb and raspberry are followed
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $120

all on, along with plenty of depth and intensity. The

finish is near endless. It flat-out impresses, with
remarkable intensity. Best from 2028 to 2038. Cel-
by sumptuous, rich flavors in the 100% varietal.
Velvety tannins back it up. Fruit and barrel play
equal parts. Give it some additional time in the bot-
92 Dunham 2017 XXIII Cabernet Sauvignon
(Washington). The aromas provide immedi-
ate appeal, with notes of raspberry, mocha, sweet
lar Selection. —S.S. tle. Best after 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S. spice, dried herb and currant. The palate is chock-
abv: 13.7% Price: $78 abv: 15.3% Price: $75 full of ripe, plump, flavorful fruit and plentiful bar-
rel accents, with tannins so soft you might think it

95 Passing Time 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Red Mountain). Here, 55% of the fruit
comes from Klipsun and 42% from Red Mountain
93 Leonetti Cellar 2018 Mill Creek Upland Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The
aromas of this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon pull
were Merlot. It’s a sure-fire crowd-pleaser. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $50
Vineyard, with the rest a pinch of Bacchus Caber- you into the glass, with notes of savory herb, high
net Franc. It’s in its shell initially, with aromas of
scorched earth, dark roasted coffee, dried herb,
raspberry, earth and cherry. The palate is action-
cacao chocolate, smoke, the blackest of cherries
and scorched earth. On the palate, it’s a big, rich,
mouthful of a wine, showing graceful intensity but
92 Eight Bells 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The aro-
mas of this blend of 12 different clones of Cabernet
packed, full of layered, dense fruit flavors. The bal- also plenty of nuance to the bold fruit flavors. Time could almost pass for old school Bordeaux, display-
ance is exquisite, with the length only upping the absolutely required. Best after 2030. Cellar Selec- ing both the coolness of this site and the cool finish
impression. Don’t touch this during this decade. tion. —S.S. of the vintage. Leaning into the savory, they offer
Best 2032–2040. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $138 notes of green pepper, jalapeño, flowers and herbs,
abv: 14.9% Price: $85 followed by cherry and plum. The flavors are soft

94 Leonetti Cellar 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of scorched
93 Passing Time 2018 Block 1311 Wallula Vine-
yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven
Hills). The quality of the fruit and vintage is apparent
and plush, exhibiting the winery’s hallmark grace. It
might be a bit green for some tastes, but others will
find magic. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
coffee, earth, tar, black cherry, cassis, dark choco- immediately, with captivating aromas of black cherry, abv: 14.3% Price: $42
late, anise and spice are followed by dense, layered, plum and spice. The palate does not disappoint,
rich fruit flavors. There’s plenty of levity to keep
it aloft, along with precision and detail. The finish
carries as long as you care to count. It’s a quintes-
bringing luscious fruit flavors and more. The polish
and class impress, as does the long finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $95
92 Fidelitas 2018 Quintessence Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This vine-
yard has quickly made a name for itself, and Fideli-
sential Walla Walla Valley wine at its finest, with tas has been at the forefront of that. Cocoa, cedar,
power and grace. Drink from 2028 to 2038, but it
will live as long as you care to keep it. Cellar Selec-
tion. —S.S.
93 Upchurch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). The aromas draw you into the
glass, with notes of dark raspberry, black cherry,
black cherry and barrel spice aromas lead in this
100% varietal, followed by full, luscious, ripe fruit
flavors. They are surrounded by the structure that
abv: 14.6% Price: $100 scorched earth and spice. The flavors are arresting, has made this appellation famous. Best after 2024.
showing plenty of depth, polish and class along with Cellar Selection. —S.S.

94 Passing Time 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

(Walla Walla Valley). This is all Cabernet,
exceptional length. There’s a lot of seriousness to it.
Give it time in the cellar to see it at its best. Drink
abv: 15.1% Price: $70

with 62% of the fruit coming from Seven Hills and

the rest from Pepper Bridge. The aromas are cap-
tivating, with notes of thyme, plum, bay leaf, high
after 2027. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $75 92 J. Bookwalter 2018 Protagonist Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Aromas of
dried orange rind, fresh herbs, black cherry and tar
cacao chocolate and black cherry. The palate packs
a wallop of tightly wound fruit and brawny tan-
nins. Patience and time in the cellar are absolutely
92 Col Solare 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). The aromas are reticent ini-
tially, with notes of coffee, anise, dried herb, cherry
are followed by fresh, fruitful flavors. It’s direct in
the appeal of its primary fruit. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $65
required. Best after 2028. Cellar Selection. —S.S. and tar. The flavors are fleshy and straight down the
abv: 14.9% Price: $85 fairway, with plenty of structure behind them. Give
it time in the cellar to see it at its best. Drink after 92 L’Ecole No. 41 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). For full review see page

93 Abeja 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia

Valley). Aromas of fresh black cherry, barrel
spice, dark chocolate and blackberry are followed by
2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
119. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 171
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Manu Propria 2017 Ex Animo Red Willow
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Val-
ley). This wine—all varietal except for a splash of
91 Walla Walla Vintners 2018 Cabernet Franc
(Columbia Valley). Savory herb, dark coffee,
dark raspberry and bittersweet chocolate aromas
90 Bel Lago 2019 Brut Auxerrois (Leelanau Pen-
insula). For full review see page 128.
abv: 13.2% Price: $22
Merlot (8%)—comes from one of the state’s most lead to layered, textured fruit and barrel flavors.
highly regarded vineyards. Its aromas open with
notes of milk chocolate, plum, pink peppercorn and
sautéed herb. Plump, broad blue and red fruit fla-
Coffee notes linger on the finish. The barrel plays a
big part. It’s undeniable in its appeal, a classic Vint-
ner’s style wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
90 Good Harbor NV Benjamin’s Vineyard Blanc
de Noirs (Leelanau Peninsula). For full
review see page 129.
vors follow, showing pleasing richness. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $24
abv: 14.7% Price: $NA

92 Upchurch 2018 LTL Cabernet Sauvignon

(Red Mountain). The aromas of this estate’s
91 Woodward Canyon 2018 Estate Cabernet
Franc (Walla Walla Valley). This is a rare
example of varietal Cabernet Franc from this site,
90 Mawby NV Talis Brut (Leelanau Peninsula).
This sparkling wine starts off with aromas
of lemon, peach fuzz and vanilla cake batter. The
entry level offering are initially reticent, with notes coming from vines planted in 1997 and 2001. Aro- concentrated palate doles out ripe pear and Victoria
of cherry, plum, flower and tar. This leads to well- mas of tar, resin, green pepper, cherry, dark choco- sponge bathed in lemon juice and supported by fine
proportioned black fruit flavors. The appellation’s late and barrel spice lead to soft, elegant coffee and bubbles. Tangy acidity builds towards the finish and
tannic structure is there in abundance. There’s a lot cherry flavors. It’s a pretty expression of the variety. lingers long on a final breath of lime. —F.A.
of depth and layering to the flavors as well. Editors’ —S.S. abv: 11% Price: $39
Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $52
abv: 14.2% Price: $30

90 Col Solare 2017 Component Collection 89 Mawby NV Gold Brut (Leelanau Peninsula).
An alluring nose offers lemon, biscuit

92 Woodward Canyon 2017 40th Anniversary

Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This
esteemed producer reaching its fourth decade is not
Estate Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Red Moun-
tain). There’s a lot of enjoyment to be had in the
cherry, spice and dried herb flavors. It has a pleasing
dough, pistachio Ghraybeh cookie and white grape-
fruit peel. The palate is quite forward in baked apple
drizzled in lemon juice, with a butter cookie base. It
only a benchmark for the winery but for the state’s sophistication. —S.S. gets pithy on the finish but there is still plenty of
wider industry. A blend of equal parts Champoux abv: 14.5% Price: $85 juicy lemon and lime to lift it. The bubbles are mild
Vineyard and estate fruit coming from vines with mannered and the acidity is vibrant. —F.A.
an average of 35 years of age, this collector’s anni-
versary wine was micro-produced at just under 100 90 Isenhower 2018 Road Less Traveled Caber-
net Franc (Columbia Valley). This wine is
abv: 11% Price: $29

cases. The aromas draw you in, with notes of black

fruit, green pepper, fresh herb, flower, clove, spice,
bittersweet chocolate, licorice and black cherry.
100% varietal, with just over half of the fruit com-
ing from Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven
Hills and the rest from Dineen in the Rattlesnake
89 Verterra 2019 Sparkling Rosé (Leelanau
Peninsula). Millennial pink in the glass, the
aroma combines fresh picked strawberry and lily
Ripe, rich, dark fruit flavors follow, with plentiful Hills. Seeing just 30% new French oak, it has aro- with Smarties candy. The crisp and supremely juicy
barrel accents. There’s polish and class along with mas of raspberry and cherry Ludens cough drop, palate delivers pink lemonade ice pop and fresh
a lot of structure around it all. Give it until at least followed by flavors that bring seamlessness and picked strawberry. The bubbles are touch foamy but
2027. Cellar Selection. —S.S. intensity. —S.S. the acidity is vibrant and bouncy, with a sweetart
abv: 14.1% Price: $180 abv: 14.4% Price: $38 candy flavor. The ultimate poolside sipper. —F.A.
abv: 12% Price: $30

CABERNET FRANC 90 Spring Valley Vineyard 2017 Katherine Cork-

rum Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla Valley).
This wine leans hard into the savory, with notes of 88 Good Harbor NV David’s Vineyard Blanc de
Blanc (Leelanau Peninsula). Pale lemon in

92 Canvasback 2018 Ciel du Cheval Cabernet

Franc (Red Mountain). Coming from one of
the state’s most esteemed vineyards, the aromas are
green pepper and jalapeño in front of cherry and
chocolate. The palate shows more of the same on
the soft, well-balanced fruit flavors. It might be too
color and delicate on the nose, this delivers a fresh
peeled lemon aroma. The juicy palate offers ripe
lemon and white peach flavors alongside intense,
alluring, with notes of dried herbs, cedar, raspberry green for some tastes, but it displays that side of the sour acidity. Over all, it’s bright and charming but a
and cherry. The palate is all about sophistication, variety well. —S.S. touch sour with a tangy Key lime finish. —F.A.
with fruit and barrel intertwining and the tannins abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 12% Price: $22
combed to a fine sheen. It will have a long life ahead
of it. Give it a few years in the bottle or decant. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $70
90 Tamarack 2018 Cabernet Franc (Columbia
Valley). For full review see page 133.
abv: 14.1% Price: $30
88 Good Harbor NV Norah’s Vineyard Brut (Lee-
lanau Peninsula). Aromas of honeysuckle
and ripe peach are joined by light citrus accents.
The delicate palate delivers ripe Bartlett pear, white

92 Cor Cellars 2019 Alder Ridge Vineyard Cab-

ernet Franc (Horse Heaven Hills). There’s
no mistaking the variety, with its notes of flower,
MICHIGAN
peach and a very light touch of oyster cracker. The
bubbles are dainty and lift the palate while the
acidity remains mellow. The finish is very dry and
braised green pepper, cherry and moist earth. Pure, SPARKLING WINES grassy, layered with a twist of grapefruit and a whis-
sumptuous, mouthcoating fruit and green pepper per of white pepper. Light, bright and easy, this is
flavors follow. It’s a complete dazzler, though the
pyrazines might be a bit much for some tastes. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
91 Aurora NV Brut Rosé (Leelanau Peninsula).
For full review see page 122.
abv: 11.7% Price: $24
begging for hot summer nights. —F.A.
abv: 11.2% Price: $24

abv: 13.5% Price: $32

NEW JERSEY
92 Owen Roe 2018 Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc 91 Soul Squeeze 2017 The Pearl Sparkling Rosé
(Old Mission Peninsula). For full review see
(Yakima Valley). For full review see page page 127. CHARDONNAY
120. Cellar Selection. abv: 12% Price: $28
abv: 14.1% Price: $28
90 Unionville 2019 Home Estate Grown and
Bottled Chardonnay (New Jersey). A lemon
scented nose sets the tone for this Chardonnay,

172 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

which is loaded with citrus flavors and mouthwa-
tering acidity. Bright and charming it’s packed with
fresh lemon and stony mineral notes on the palate.
89 William Heritage 2017 BDX Estate Reserve
(Outer Coastal Plain). A fruity nose includes
crunchy cranberry, pomegranate and red plum
CANADA
The finish brings white grapefruit and lemon pith along with nuances of white pepper and herbes de ICEWINES
notes. —F.A. Provence. The palate mirrors the fruits of the nose,
abv: 13.3% Price: $38 adding more savory tones of dried herbs and wood
before diving into a bitter finish that tingles with 95 Inniskillin 2019 Icewine Cabernet Franc
(Niagara Peninsula). Cabernet Franc, both

89 Unionville 2019 Pheasant Hill Estate Grown

and Bottled Chardonnay (New Jersey). Pale
gold in color, this offer aromas of kettle corn and
pepper. —F.A.
abv: 13% Price: $50
still and sweet, is a rising star in eastern Canada.
As an ice wine it’s rare and distinctive, aromatic
and focused. Honey, molasses, caramel, bubble
lemon on the nose. Fresh lemon and white grape- tea, sweet tobacco, candied apricot, blueberry and
fruit introduce the palate that slides into a toffee OTHER RED WINES blackberry jam mark the dizzying mix of flavors.
note. This feels clean and fresh, with bright, crisp There’s enough tannin to cut through, and this
acidity and a butterscotch finish. The restrained oak
influences allows the lively citrus tones to shine in
this well balanced Chardonnay. —F.A.
90 Sharrott 2018 Merlot (Outer Coastal Plain).
Cranberry, pomegranate and plum aromas
meet cigar wrapper on the nose, with a sprinkle of
very special wine makes a splendid dessert all by
itself. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $42 white pepper. Loaded with mouthwatering acidity abv: 9.5% Price: $101/375 ml
and gently gripping, crushed velvet tannins, the pal-

88 White Horse 2019 Estate Chardonnay (Outer

Coastal Plain). A lemon note teases on a
deceptively quiet nose. The palate is loaded with
ate delivers plum and cassis flavors that lead to an
oak and cigar smoke finish laden with spice. Give
this a couple years to become more cohesive; drink
92 Inniskillin 2019 Icewine Riesling (Niagara
Peninsula). This Riesling Icewine offers
sweet, honeyed flavors of apple sauce and peach pie,
juicy lemon, white grapefruit and kumquat, with after 2024. —F.A. with accents of candied apricots and dried papaya.
an endless, juicy finish. This refreshing and concen- abv: 13% Price: $35 The acids balance out the sugar, which is finished at
trated juice bomb is very easy and enjoyable. —F.A. 230 g/L. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —P.G.
abv: 12.7% Price: $NA
90 Unionville 2019 Amwell Ridge Estate Grown
and Bottled Pinot Noir (New Jersey). The
abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml

88 William Heritage 2019 Estate Reserve Char-

donnay (Outer Coastal Plain). Rich lemon,
custard and honey aromas form the nose. The pal-
nose combines apple, cherry and wild raspberry
to create a sophisticated fruit punch profile, with
nuances of wild flower and spring air. The palate is
92 Inniskillin 2018 Gold Icewine Vidal (Niagara
Peninsula). A thick streak of pineapple
slices through this dense, almost syrupy dessert
ate is loaded with Meyer lemon and peach flavors, not quite as juicy as the nose promises, with loads wine. Candied fruits are at the core, a mix of apri-
with a touch of honey. Tons of slick acidity lends of tart apple and yellow cherry. There is a whisper cot, peach, papaya and citrus. Running through the
balance. —F.A. of tannin that keeps this from careening into juice long finish are hints of brown sugar, maple sugar
abv: 12.3% Price: $35/375 ml bomb territory, but it is still light and playful in its and honey. It is finished at 240 g/L of residual
refreshing simplicity. —F.A. sugar. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml
RED BLENDS

91 Auburn Road 2017 Gaia (Outer Coastal Plain).

For full review see page 122.
90 William Heritage 2017 Burn Pile Vineyard
Estate Grown Chambourcin (Outer Coastal
Plain). A high-toned nose delivers black currant
92 Inniskillin 2018 Sparkling Icewine Vidal
(Ontario). This unusual take on an Icewine
marries the bubbles to honeyed, deeply-layered tree
abv: 13.5% Price: $23 and blackberry paired with cigar box and a peppery fruits. Tones of ripe apples, peaches and apricots
tingle. The palate blends together leather, cedar and with a broad streak of honey are further enlivened

91 Auburn Road 2016 Giulia (Outer Coastal

Plain). For full review see page 122.
abv: 13% Price: $24
tobacco with black currant and black plum. A punch
of acidity lengthens the finish. —F.A.
abv: 13.7% Price: $40
by the sparkles. Sweet but not cloying, this would be
a fine match to any blue cheese. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —P.G.
abv: 9.5% Price: $80/375 ml

90 Unionville 2019 Hunterdon Mistral Rouge

Estate Grown and Bottled (New Jersey). A
spicy nose is loaded with pepper, leather, pome-
88 Sharrott 2019 Coia Vineyards Blaufränkisch
(Outer Coastal Plain). Apple, plum and
rasperry aromas are sprinkled with peppery heat on 91 Inniskillin 2019 Icewine Vidal (Niagara Penin-
sula). A deep gold color, this wine is packed
granate and Marasca cherry. The smooth and juicy the nose. The palate is juicy upfront in bright acid- with not-quite-syrupy flavors of peach, apricot and
palate delivers cranberry, plum and raspberry sup- ity that dips on the midpalate. Loaded with fruit marmalade jam. It’s a potently fruity dessert wine,
ported by polished tannins and mouthwatering flavors of plum and raspberry, it also shows pepper with 245 g/L residual sugar. Maisons Marques &
acidity. The long, lingering finish is packed with tart and earthy pine tones that build the foundation of Domaines USA. —P.G.
pomegranate, apple and leather. This a light and this medium body red. A bit of tang emerges on the abv: 9.5% Price: $59/375 ml
easy red that’s perfect for summer. —F.A. lingering finish. —F.A.
abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $30
91 Jackson-Triggs 2019 Icewine Vidal (Niagara
Peninsula). The 187 ml package—one quarter

89 Bellview NV Arcturus Estate Bottled Red

(Outer Coastal Plain). Aromas of cranberry
and raspberry have a wild edge to them, with a light
87 Beneduce 2017 Blue 2 Estate Grown Blau-
fränkisch (New Jersey). Aromas of cherry,
cranberry and pepper introduce this New Jersey
of a regular bottle—suffices for two sweet toothers
given the richness of the wine. A deep gold color, the
wine is thick on the palate and loaded with flavors
touch of cedar on the nose. Tart flavors of cran- Blaufränkisch. The palate offers raspberry and of dried apricot, peach, cooked pear, papaya and
berry, pomegranate and raspberry are paired with blackberry, but flavors of vanilla, toasted oak and crystallized sugar. The acids keep it from becoming
mouthwatering acidity that is well managed by sup- leather smother the pretty fruit tones. The tannins too cloying. Karl, Bright & Mariani. —P.G.
portive yet wild tannins. This is on the lighter side, are mild and grounded, and the acidity is well bal- abv: 9.5% Price: $30/187 ml
with a pepper tingle and oak tones emerging on the anced adding a tart and crisp edge to the fruit fla-
finish. —F.A. vors. A spice-laden finish lingers on plum skin and
abv: NA Price: $28 wood tones. —F.A.
abv: 13.5% Price: $36

WINEMAG.COM | 173
BUYINGGUIDE

SPIRITS
low appearance and mild lemon aroma with a
savory tinge. Overall, this drinks like vodka mixed
with lemonade: it’s light on the palate, mild and not
overly lemony, with the faintest tinge of sweetness
and finishing with an appropriate amount of citric
pucker. Mix into Lemon Drops, as the producer sug-
Give some love to limoncello gests.
abv: 35% Price: $30

O
riginally from Southern Italy, limon- the old school category. For example, newcomer
cello is a lemon-based liqueur that’s like
drinking sunshine in a bottle. Its zesty,
Chelly bills its snappy version as “new age
limoncello,” while Indianapolis producer Hotel
91 Letterpress Arancello Rosso (USA; Letterpress
Distilling, Seattle, WA). Burnished gold and
bright in the glass, this honey-sweetened, orange-y
fresh nature makes it one of the most Tango makes a “new world limoncello” with take on limoncello has vanilla and citrus peel aro-
refreshing sips around. Lemon Drop cocktails in mind. Elsewhere, New mas, suggesting an orange glaze for cake. The pal-
ate echoes that vanilla note, leading into clove spice
Prized for its vibrant hue and citrusy flavor, Zealand’s Sovrano introduces an herbaceous
and finishing with boozy orange, viscous and lush.
like a grown-up version of lemonade, limon- liqueur made with Yen-Ben lemons, a tart com- abv: 30% Price: $39
cello has a long but hazy his- mercial variety that grows well
tory. One origin story credits
Italian monks, noted for apply- While Italy deserves
Down Under.
Also of note are orange- 90 Fabrizia Limoncello (USA; Fabrizia Spirits,
Salem, NH). The appearance is pale yellow
and very cloudy, almost opaque. Clean lemon peel
ing herbalism to create medici- credit for creating cellos, including a success-
aromas lead into a light but sugary palate laced with
nal alcoholic elixirs. The Italian ful honey-sweetened arancello
limoncello, it’s lemon peel and lemon candy, braced up with flickers
association of wine and liqueur from Seattle producer Letter- of ginger and white pepper. Best Buy.
producers (Federvini) points to
worth noting that press that suggests an orange abv: 27% Price: $20
Maria Antonia Farace, who had today citrus grows glaze drizzled atop spice cake.
a lavish garden of lemons and
oranges on the island of Capri
in a wide range of With all this citrusy bounty,
it’s not hard to imagine that
90 Lucano Anniversario Limoncello (Italy;
Kobrand, Purchase, NY). A concentrated
sunny locales. buttercup yellow and mild candied lemon peel
in the early 1900s. And a third, varieties like a rosy pink aroma leads into a lemon lollipop palate. That flavor
far less likely theory says South- grapefruit-cello, a Japanese- and sweetness follows through from start to finish,
ern Italian fishermen sipped the lemon liqueur inspired yuzu-cello or a West Coast-sourced plus a bit of white pepper tingle into the exit. Made
with Sorrento lemon peels
to keep warm after their seafaring expeditions. Meyer lemon-based option might become
abv: 30% Price: $23
While Italy deserves credit for creating future pours some day. Until then, we’ll look to
limoncello, it’s worth noting that today citrus Southern Italy and beyond for classically styled
grows in a wide range of sunny locales, where limoncellos fit to sip or mix. 89 Il Tramonto Limoncello (Italy; Prestige Bev-
erage Group, Mendota Heights, MN). For full
review see page 139. Best Buy.
they are made into worthy lemon liqueurs. Cheers!
abv: 30% Price: $20
Here in the U.S., some are looking to reinvent —Kara Newman

89 Limoncino Bottega (Italy; Palm Bay Interna-

tional, Boca Raton, FL). This limoncello is
vibrant yellow with a faint greenish glow and her-
baceous aromas of lemongrass and tarragon. The

95 Letterpress Limoncello (USA; Letterpress

Distilling, Seattle, WA). Richer than a typi-
cal limoncello, this golden liqueur offers roasted
92 Chelly Limon Liqueur (USA; Chelly, Tempe,
AZ). At 80 proof, this is a bit stronger than
most limoncellos. The pale straw hue and pleasing
honeyed palate is similarly herbaceous, with a pro-
nounced fennel note that leads into a sticky licorice
twang.
pineapple and toasted banana bread aromas. An candied lemon peel aroma leads into a clean, snappy abv: 30% Price: $23
intriguing butterscotch note opens the palate, palate showing lemon peel and white pepper, fin-
rounding into a long, honeyed finish enlivened with
nutmeg, cayenne and lemon pepper. Mix with rum
or stir into cake batter. This is a honey-sweetened
ishing surprisingly long. Sip with a cube of ice or
lengthen with sparkling water. Best Buy.
abv: 40% Price: $20
89 Pallini Limoncello (Italy; Bols, New York,
NY). Cloudy pale yellow, with a mild lemon
lollipop aroma, this viscous liqueur is on the
homage to the distiller’s grandmother’s village in sweeter side, reading as lemon candy layered with
the mountains outside of Rome.
abv: 28% Price: $36 92 Jovis Limoncello (Italy; Originals Imports,
Stamford, CT). Cloudy, sunny yellow
appearance and bright lemon peel aroma. The palate
a piny hint. Each sip finishes with ginger and white
pepper sparks.
abv: 26% Price: $25

93 Fabrizia Limoncello Cream Liqueur (USA;

Fabrizia Spirits, Salem, NH). A refreshing
palate cleanser of a cream liqueur, look for a light
opens sweet and finishes brisk and mouthwatering.
In between, candied lemon peel and lemon lollipop
flavors mingle with white pepper and ginger heat. 89 Sovrano Limoncello (New Zealand; Embassy
Spirits, Lake Orion, MI). Look for a pale yel-
yellow hue and mild lemon curd aroma. Plush and Made with Sorrento lemon peels, no preservatives low, slightly cloudy appearance and astringent
palate coating, moderately sweet lemon sorbet and or colorants. lemon peel aromas. The light palate opens with
lemon cream notes lead into a light finish braced up abv: 32% Price: $34 perky pine, tarragon and sage, leading into a mild
with ginger. Best Buy. lemony finish. Made in New Zealand using Yen-Ben
abv: 26% Price: $20
91 Hotel Tango Lemoncello (USA; Hotel Tango,
Indianapolis, IN). Expect a cloudy, pale yel-
lemons.
abv: 28% Price: $13/375 ml

174 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 BEER
for patio conversations, in a proper glass, with no
immediate plans on the schedule.
abv: 4.6% Price: $12/16oz 4 pack

91 Rosenstadt Kölsch (Kölsch; Rosenstadt Brew-

ery, OR). This pours a dark yellow gold with
Clink glasses with some kölsch a robust head. Whiffs of mineral water and bready
malt arrive first, followed by earthy, slightly spicy

B
hops. This glass would quickly empty over long
efore small American craft brewers Yet the style remains popular today both in
afternoon conversation with friends.
began making lagers by the barrel, they Germany and the U.S., where brewers largely abv: 5.1% Price: $12/12oz 6 pack
embraced the kölsch. Fermented with ale stick with tradition rather than seeking to add
yeast and cold lager temperatures, this
hybrid is both fruity and crisp, and well-made
bells and whistles to their recipes. The style
provides a soft malt character, a low hop pro- 90 Four Peaks Tribute Sunbru Kölsch-style
Ale (Kölsch; Four Peaks, AZ). This offers a
jaunty combination of ale sweetness and lager crisp-
examples are prized for their subtlety. file and a playground for yeasty flavors to run
ness, with a fruity thread bringing it all together. It
The style has its origins in Cologne, rampant, although some brewers occasionally is refreshing as all get out, made for hot days.
Germany, where it is brewed to precise specifi- seek to push the envelope both in alcohol and abv: 5.1% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack
cations and falls under the Rein- hoppy characteristics.
heitsgebot, or brewing purity
law. It is a beer meant for gath-
The style is perfect
Some breweries choose to
call their kölsch a golden ale or
90 Odell Kindling Golden Ale (Kölsch; Odell
Brewing, CO). This kölsch is on the sweeter
side, with a noticeable caramel malt note and a
ering and comradery and in the for the summer even a summer ale, and while sweet flan finish. The hops play in the background
city of its creation there are months or anytime that is a bit of marketing, it still alongside a slight citrus note. It’s full bodied and
rituals involved with its con- makes sense. The style is per- fun to drink.
cool refreshment is abv: 5% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack
sumption. Pubs and brewer- fect for the summer months
ies will serve round after round
called for. or anytime cool refreshment is
to patrons, making a tick mark
on a coaster to indicate the number of glasses
called for. With mid to low alco-
hol and an unadorned nature, it is a great beer
90 Prost Kölsch (Kölsch; Prost Brewing; CO).
This ale offers forward aromas of miner-
als and hops, with a clean malt profile and slightly
served. When the drinker has finally had for the beach or a reward after some yardwork. fruity finish. It’s a proper day drinking beer at the
enough, the check marks are tallied and a bill Look for a kölsch that is pale yellow in color, ballpark or at home listening to the broadcast from
the first pitch to the last out.
issued. That is not as commonplace in the U.S. with a crystal-clear pour and a modest head. It’s
abv: 4.8% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack
nor is the proper glass: a Stange, a tall narrow one of the best options for stocking a cooler in
glass. the hot months of the year. A Stange is not nec-
For small breweries that opened in the U.S. essary, but encouraged. 89 10 Barrel Reel Good Summer Ale (Kölsch; 10
Barrel Brewing, OR). This thirst quencher is
a little heavy handed on the malt. A spicy, earthy
in the 1980s and 1990s, kölsch was an ale that Cheers!
hop character balances well against the semisweet
could be served to traditional lager drinkers. —John Holl
finish. This is a collaboration with Trout Unlimited.
abv: 5% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack

89 Black Flannel Dent Head Kölsch-style Ale

(Kölsch; Black Flannel Brewing, VT).There’s

96 Exhibit A Goody Two Shoes Kölsch Style Ale

(Kölsch; Exhibit A Brewing, MA). This is the
beer, pint after pint, that delivers on the proper bal-
93 Blackberry Farm Goat Hill Golden Ale (Kölsch;
Blackberry Farm Brewery, TN). This beer
would be a welcome reward after a long day of activ-
a slight haze and a thin head on this bright malt
forward ale. A cereal grain malt profile grows as a
medium body keeps refreshment close at hand with
ance of the four main ingredients without weighing ity. Not just for refreshment, but it challenges the a bit of a filling quality.
down the palate. Slightly fruity, with a floral hop taste buds with perfumy, floral hops that lead into a abv: 4.8% Price: $20/ 12oz 6 pack
character and a touch of minerality, it’s a beer for sweet and slightly fruity palate. It’s a rounded, full
all occasions. It facilitates a good time and puts a
jump in your step.
abv: 4.5% Price: $11/16oz 4 pack
flavored pour.
abv: 5% Price: $12/12oz 6 pack 89 KC Bier Kölsch (Kölsch; KC Bier Co., MO).
Golden yellow with a slight chill haze, this
moderately hopped kölsch has a sweet malt thread

95 Westbound & Down/Bierstadt Lager Chicago

Peaks Kölsch (Kölsch; Westbound & Down,
92 Three Weavers Seafarer Kölsch-style Ale
(Kölsch; Three Weavers Brewing, CA). This
beer is clean and refreshing, with a touch of sweet-
from beginning to end. A growing earthy hop bitter-
ness emerges on an otherwise dry finish.
abv: 4.8% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack
CO). For full review see page 139. ness on the finish. It has a little hop bitterness that
abv: 5% Price: $12/16oz 4 pack appears on the midpalate and builds toward the fin-
ish in pleasing earthy and citrus-laden accents. 89 Von Trapp Kölsch (Kölsch; Von Trapp Brew-
ing, VT). Golden with a slight haze, this is

94 Springdale Kölsch Money (Kölsch; Spring-

dale Beer Co., MA). Golden yellow in color,
abv: 4.8% Price: $12/12oz 6 pack a full-bodied ale with a creamy body and lemony
accents. A spring camping beer or just right for a
with citrus accents, this is a beer you can drink all
day, any day. An orange peel note emerges as the
glass empties, along with a honey-like malt flavor.
91 Dovetail Kölsch (Kölsch; Dovetail Brewery,
IL). This is a crisp and slightly fruity kölsch
that delivers on refreshment sip after sip. Some will
few rounds after softball practice.
abv: 5% Price: $10/12oz 6 pack

abv: 4.8% Price: $16/16oz 4 pack call this a lawnmower beer, but it is better suited

WINEMAG.COM | 175
 BARRELED OVER

My
first experience with French

CELLAR
wine and food started with a
Julia Child cookbook. I made
tournedos Rossini and filet of
beef with Bearnaise sauce. Such luscious dishes
called for superb Bordeaux wine, and the owner of
a local wine shop in West Hartford, Connecticut,

MEMORY
provided it.
That same shop owner taught me a great deal
about Bordeaux and shared wonderful bottles,
including some from the great 1961 vintage. When
I was ready to visit the region, he sent what must
have been a very convincing letter on my behalf
to Maison Sichel. Upon my arrival, the négociant
sent an employee and car to take me on a three-day
journey to the most famous vineyards in the world.
Early in his wine journey, David Glass lucked The chateaus—Lafite Rothschild, Margaux and
d’Yquem—were, of course, beautiful, but I couldn’t
into an incredible tour of Bordeaux that wait for the tours to be over. All I wanted to do was
shaped the way he tastes wine. descend into the cellars.
There, in the caves where the barrels of wine
were aging, my sense of smell was so heightened
that the other senses faded into the background
until the winemaker would dip into a barrel. We
would taste its contents and discuss what the wine
might be like in five years, in 100. To this day, the
pungent aroma of fermenting grapes is razor sharp
in my memory.
In the tiny town of Margaux, my guide and I
visited a small restaurant. The food was good but
definitely not haute cuisine; the wine list was like
no other in the world. Every single wine of the 20
on the list was from the appellation of Margaux.
It was like a poem, with each verse ending in the
word Margaux. Throughout the course of dinner,
we drank three bottles. None was close to Château
Margaux, but all of them had the characteristic

ALAMY
deep red fruitiness and balanced flavor of that I
came to recognize as Margaux.
Unfortunately, many of the wines I tasted on
that trip were from the early 1970s; those vintages
were thin and not long-lived. Of course, I didn’t
have a clue at the time.
It’s possible that I would have appreciated
that trip more had I gone later in life, with more
knowledge about wine. But either way, my
experience left such an impression on me that
whenever I taste a red wine from Bordeaux, I
automatically search for echoes of flavors it had
when it was in the barrel. Then, I am catapulted
back in time to those chilly wine caves, with all of
the fermenting aromas and memories.

176 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

 CHERRY LIMEADE

1 ½ oz cherry-infused Just add infused Tito’s Handmade Vodka and limeade

Tito’s Handmade Vodka to a glass over ice. Garnish with a lime slice and cherry.
4 oz limeade
1 lime slice, garnish No time for an infusion? No problem. Just muddle a few
1 cherry, garnish cherries in your glass and sip away the stress.
NE W YO RK
S AS S MEE TS
NE W Z E A L AN D
WINEMAKERS

SUPPORTING FEED WITH

330,000 MEALS DONATED IN 2021

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