How to Bird Watch

If you’re ever bored or want to get outside and do something, why not try birdwatching? Grab a pair of
binoculars and bird! If you live in the city or in the country there will always be birds to watch.

[edit] Steps

1.

A fascinating hobby

Get a pair of binoculars. Try to get a good pair like Nikon, Leica, Swarovski, Leupold, Audubon, or
Ziess so that you can see the birds clearly. A pair with reasonable distance and lighter weight
works better than one with longer distance and heavier weight. Choose between porro prisms and
roof prisms. Porro prisms are sturdier and brighter, but are also heavier, more expensive, and have
lower magnification. Roof prisms are lighter, cheaper, more compact, but have poorer light-
gathering capacities. Nevertheless, most birders use roof prisms. Also take into consideration the
binocular strap. When you go into the field, you will be wearing a dead weight on your neck for
hours at a time, so make sure the strap is wide and comfortable. Some birders use a harness that
distributes weight to the shoulders and back instead of to the neck.

2. Get a field guide so you can look up the birds you see. Roger Tory Peterson, Kenn Kaufman,
or David Sibley's field guides are really good.

3. Go outside and start to find birds once you have binoculars and a field guide,. Go during the
early morning, especially during migration. Most of the time, you will be surrounded by bird calls
and songs, but will not have a single bird in sight. Look for movement in trees, and bring your
binoculars to your eyes. (Don't try to find the bird through your binoculars.)
4. Look them up in your field guide and see if you can identify them. You will find that birds stick
to certain ranges---range maps will be shown in your field guide. To find more and different birds,
 you may wish to plan trips to different habitats: forests, mudflats, lakes, rivers, fields/meadows.
Eventually, you may wish to plan travel even further to places which will host birds you are not
likely to see near your home.
5. Begin to create your “life list”. This is a list of every species of bird you have seen. Eventually,
you might progress to creating various other lists: yard lists, month lists, year lists, state lists, etc.
6. Get into the habit of studying the birds' habits, calls, and field marks before birding. This way,
you will be ready to identify a particular bird the instant you see it.
7. Join the RSPB to help save British bird Wildlife, get a free magazine and free field book.

[edit] Tips

 Putting up bird feeders and keeping them filled with fresh bird food is an effective way to
attract birds to your own yard. Do some reading to determine which type of feeds will attract any
birds you are particularly interested in observing. Sunflower seeds will attract quite a few varieties
and might be nice to start with.

 You can install a bird fountain. Most things that can hold shallow water will do! Running or
dripping water especially interests birds, also.
 If you really enjoy bird watching go to www.audubon.org and find a birding chapter near you.
Many chapters lead bird walks that you can attend.
 Contact local universities or parks to find out whether classes or walks are being offered.
 It may take time to learn your common birds but just keep trying. After a while you will start to
be able to identify all the birds in your neighborhood and soon you may want to try local parks or
preserves to find more birds.
 Go to a birding supply store and try out several kinds of binoculars before buying.
 A field guide is essential to birding. Try to avoid guides with photographs (stick with the
painted ones), since they often lead to confusion due to poor lighting, flash, posture, etc.
 Do not focus on color as this alone can lead to misidentifications. Focus on shape, size,
markings, posture, behavior, etc. This is key to correct identification.
 Birding during spring and fall migration will yield large numbers and varieties of species
 As with everything in life, practice makes perfect.
 There are some interesting bird identification tools on the web, try using them to better
understand different birds based on key elements and details observed.

[edit] Warnings

 Be considerate of the birds, the environment, and other birders. Abide by the ABA Code of
Birding Ethics.

 Do not disturb nesting birds!

 During migration, do not "pish", or lure birds by making noises that mimic the noises that small
birds make when they "mob", or harass, predators. This stresses the already-weakened bird, and
may contribute to its death.

[edit] Things You'll Need

 Binoculars
 Field Guide (Peterson, Sibley, Kaufman are recommended)
 Notebook and pen to record your sightings and notes.
 Sharp eyes and ears
 Suitable Clothing (for seasonal weather conditions)

How to Photograph a Bird

Photography is a fun and rewarding activity. It can be very challenging, since the subject can be small,
hide in less than favorable places, and be aware of approaching photographers. But, once you get the
photo, you will be able to enjoy its beauty forever.

A Brown Thrasher close-up.

[edit] Steps

1. Be ready. Bird photography is hard work. You need to know what you are up for. Patience is
the key, and an impatient person will not make a very good photographer. Also, make sure you can
handle the disappointments, weather, and trips to places.

2. Get a camera. It must be of good quality. It should also have a fast shutter, because the birds
can move at any split second. You should use the longest lens you have or can afford to get the
bird larger in the photo. Also, if the birds won't come out when you are around, set the settings on
your camera to trigger the shutter by remote control. Then you will be able to watch from farther
away.
3. Decide which type of bird you would like to photograph. Depending on what type of bird you
choose, you will need to go to different areas to photograph it.
4. Stay passionate. Being passionate for birds just makes it easier to photograph them. You
also need to respect them. Do not throw things at the birds if they fly away from you. This might
make them never come back.
5. Get some good camouflage and appropriate clothing for the place you plan on going to. If
the birds don't notice you, you will be more apt to get a shot of them. You should also try making a
hiding spot for yourself. This is called Bird-Blind Photography. Make a sort of barrier around
yourself, with plants of whatever is handy, and set the camera up either inside it or outside. The
birds won't care so much about the camera as they will about you.
6. Go to a place that you know many birds inhabit. Or, go to a specific place where you see
one bird go to over and over again. Different birds have different live in different places, so you
should be prepared to travel to different places. Also, you might want to try going somewhere
where there aren't many leaves in the trees. This will make it easier to photograph, but there may
be less birds.
 A Brown Thrasher feeding.

7. Go at the time of the day when birds are active. Birds are very active feeding in early
morning and late afternoon, so you might consider going around these times. That isn't the only
times they are out, though. Birds can be feeding and active at any time of day.

8. Understand that birds migrate. You should understand migration. Some birds migrate at
different times of the year. If you are trying to photograph a specific bird, find out when it usually
migrates.
9. There may not be many birds at the place when you arrive, but they are probably hiding. Once
you arrive, find a place to stay, and plan on being there for a while.
10. After a while, the birds should start coming out again. When this occurs, make sure you stay
quiet. Do not try to move a lot, but if you must, still be quiet in doing so.
11. Take the shot! If you are using a remote controlled shutter, you might want to take more than
one shot, so you might possible get a perfect one. If you are trying to get a close-up shot of one,
wait for it to come over near you. Otherwise, take a picture at the appropriate time.

[edit] Tips

 Patience is essential. You need to just keep trying, because if you keep trying you will learn
more. Wait for the birds, and they will come right to you.

Hummingbird.

 Zooming is key in photography. If a bird does not directly come over near you, you can still
zoom in on one. This will make it look like you were right next to the bird.

 Be as quiet as possible: verbally and physically. If a bird becomes alarmed, it will fly away.
Sometimes a whole flock will follow one bird.
 Try getting photos with different angles. This will make the photos even more enjoyable.
 Digital cameras are preferable, because you can delete the photos that are junk, and save all
of the good ones.
 Use the Internet. On the Internet you'll be able to find sites that record sitings of birds in your
area. You should also check out the Rare Bird Alert Network that will notify you of rare bird sitings
in your area.
 You might want to use a car. Sometimes cars might work better when trying to get a photo. In
some situations, you can get closer to a bird in your car, but you have to go slowly.
 Photograph alone. Unfortunately, one person can get a photo easier than a group. With a
group the birds get more frightened and are more apt to fly away. Going alone will really increase
your chances of getting a great photograph.
 You might want to study photos before you actually start photographing. Studying them will
give you a better idea of what you want to photograph like, and you can set goals for yourself. If it
is an exceptionally good photo, you should try to obtain similar results.
 If you don't want to travel far, start attracting birds to your neighborhood. They are attracted
with feeders, plants, and preferable setups.

[edit] Warnings

 Do not ever touch or go near nests. Some birds are very defensive toward their nest and
young, and you could possibly get hurt by the bird.

 The bird's welfare always comes first. Do not ever try to hurt a bird. More and more birds are
dying each year, so we should try to help them.

[edit] Things You'll Need

 Camera
 Tripod (optional)
 Camouflage
 Birds

How to Attract Birds

Attracting birds to your backyard provides you with a connection to your local environment. You might
never realize how many different, beautiful and unique birds live in your neighborhood until you invite
them into your backyard!
[edit] Steps
1. Do some research. Find out what types of birds are in your area and are likely to be attracted
to your sanctuary. While you're at it, obtain a field guide with which to identify the birds that will
soon frequent your yard.

2.

A Tufted Titmouse pulls sunflower seeds from a tube feeder

Provide food. One of the easiest ways is to buy feeders and seed, but you can also plant trees
and shrubs to attract birds. Stick with native plants and avoid ornamental plants. Do research. Use
plants that bear fruit or nectar.

3. Offer shelter. Different species nest in different places; study the birds to determine what you
can provide. If you are planning on building nesting boxes, take note that boxes with different
holes, shapes, and orientations will attract different species. Make sure that your nest box has
adequate ventilation, and is supplied with a "baffle" and reinforcement ring at the opening that will
prevent predators from entering. You can also provide nesting material such as string, hair, or
other fibers. Don't put it right next to a feeder, as the hustle and bustle there can discourage birds
from using the shelter to nest.

4. Give them nesting material. Stuff mesh bags with pieces of yarn or string, straw, pet fur, hair
from your comb, small bits of cloth, and anything a bird can use to make a nest. Hang the bag near
the nest boxes in spring.
5. Provide grit. Birds don't have teeth to chew their food, so they swallow bits of sand that help
grind the food in their gizzard. You can help by offering crushed eggshells; this serves a dual
purpose by giving the birds calcium needed for egg-laying. Be sure to bake the eggshells to kill
Salmonella and other pathogens before offering them.

6.

A juvenile White Crowned Sparrow uses a birdbath

Create a water source. Birds are attracted to the sound of dripping or moving water. You can buy
a birdbath or create a shallow pond with a fountain. If you're short on time or resources, you can
hang a water-filled container with a hole on the bottom above a dish. Try not to place the water
source near trees or bushes where cats can hide before pouncing. Also, make sure the water is not
more than 1 inch deep.
[edit] Tips

 If you don't have the motivation, time, or resources to create a bird sanctuary in your yard, you
can always contribute to a "communal" bird sanctuary. Donate money and/or volunteer hours to
conservation organization such as The Nature Conservancy that buys tracts of land and saves
them from development.

 Don't rake the leaves. Birds will forage for insects hiding under dead leaves in the spring.
 Keep your feeders, houses and water sources clean.
 Don't remove dead trees unless they are a danger - standing dead trees are important nesting
and foraging spots for many species especially woodpeckers which eat the insects that infest dead
trees.
 Also try to feed a variety of and suet; if you start to feed the birds in the winter, don't stop it as
it will likely cause great hardship, or even death, for every bird relying on that feeder.
 Try to buy bird houses made by companies that mainly sell bird-related items. They will be
better-quality houses that are more protective.

[edit] Warnings

 In the winter, do not add antifreeze to the water. Antifreeze is highly toxic and will kill any bird,
animal, or pet that drinks it, and can cause severe damage or death in humans as well. Antifreeze
also tastes sweet, which can serve as incentive for any animals that even happen to smell or taste
it. You can buy heaters designed to defrost ponds, fountains, or birdbaths. Floating a tennis ball in
the water will also allow you to break and remove ice easily.

 Don't place nestboxes too close together. Each bird will establish its own territory, and conflict
will ensue.
 Never give a bird dryer lint that contains dye or chemicals (used in the process of making
clothing non-flammable) for nesting material. It is very dangerous. Otherwise it is acceptable.
 Try to avoid using chemical pesticides at all - parents that are foraging for food will bring
poisoned insects back to the nest and entire generations of baby birds can be killed because
someone sprayed poison on their sweetcorn. Become an organic gardener!
 Avoid buying or making bird houses that have a perch on them. This feature just helps
predators get into the house. Instead of attracting birds, you might end up losing them!

How to Feed the Birds

Feeding the birds is not just tossing scraps out the door or throwing crumbs to city pigeons. Learn to
provide for the native birds in your backyard. Family fun guaranteed.

[edit] Steps
1.

Seed Feeder: Do some research to find out what types of birds live in your area. Also find out what
type of seed to buy using the links below. Purchase a feeder to dispense the seed. (Again, do
some research; there are hundreds of different types of feeders to choose from: platform feeders,
tube feeders, etc.) Some of the more expensive feeders have "baffles" that prevent squirrels and
other pests from eating. Many feeders are also made to dispense a certain seed, or for a certain
species. For example, "thistle socks" are made to contain thistles only, and can only be used by
goldfinches. Clean the feeders once a week with soap and water.

2. Nectar: If you want to attract hummingbirds, you can set up a nectar feeder. "Nectar" is a
solution with a sugar-water ratio of 1:4. Do not fill the feeders with too much nectar, and take care
to clean your nectar feeder in the summer; sugar can ferment and kill the birds.

3. Mealworms: Some people offer mealworms in a shallow dish to attract bluebirds. You can
buy these at a pet store, or you can raise your own.
4. Water: Birds are attracted to the sound of water, so you can buy a birdbath with a "faucet", or
make your own dripping system: Fill a shallow dish with water. Punch a small hole in the bottom of
a bucket. Fill the bucket with water, and hang from a branch or supporting structure. The water
should drip (not pour) into the dish.
5. Peanuts: Many birds, such as jays and nuthatches, enjoy peanuts. String the shells together.
Don't offer peanuts in the spring and summer, as parents will offer these to baby birds, which will
choke.
6. Suet: Suet is a huge source of protein and fat, and is very helpful in the winter. You can buy it
in slabs, or make your own. Nail or attach with mesh to the trunk of a tree. Don't offer suet in the
summer, as it can go rancid.
7. Fruit: Fresh fruit, as well as jelly, is popular, and will attract orioles and robins, as well as
others. Dispense jelly in a shallow container. Slice oranges in half, and impale each half on a spike
(nail, small tree branch, etc.). These can also attract wasps and ants; clean frequently.

[edit] Tips

 Buy only high quality mixed seed; low quality (inexpensive) mixes will have fillers the birds will
not eat, such as milo, wheat,and too much cracked corn, resulting in a waste of food and money.

 Nectar should not be dyed red; a red dispenser or spigot will suffice.
 Feeding the birds will not prevent them from migrating; birds use feeders to supplement their
meals. Backyard bird-feeding has, however, caused some species, such as the Northern Cardinal,
to expand their winter ranges.
 Offer a wide variety of food to attract a wide variety of birds.

[edit] Warnings

 Clean your seed feeders every week with soap and water to prevent the spread of pathogens.
 If a bird has House Finch Disease, remove your feeders for a week.
 As always, use common sense. Never feed the birds moldy seed or spoiled fruit.
 The multitude of songbirds at your feeders may attract hawks (Cooper's Hawk and Sharp-
shinned Hawk). Don't be alarmed if the hawk attacks; let nature take its course. The hawk must eat
as well. However, if this disturbs you, you can remove your feeders for a week or so.

[edit] Things You'll Need

 Money
 Area to put feeders
 Food

How to Calibrate Binoculars

Calibrating your binoculars allows you to customize them to make up for the difference between your
eyes.

[edit] Steps

1. Stand 30 ft away from a sign with clear lettering. Turn the center focusing wheel
counterclockwise. Go as far as possible.

2. Locate the diopter adjustment ring, a focusing ring located on one of the eyepieces (usually
the right). It is usually marked with the following: - 0 +. Turn this ring as far counterclockwise as
possible.
3. Point the binoculars at the sign. Look through your binoculars with both eyes open. With your
hand, cover the barrel that has the diopter ring. Turn the central focusing wheel until the lettering
on the sign comes into sharp focus.
4. Cover the opposite barrel. Turn the diopter ring until the lettering comes into sharp focus. Your
binoculars are now calibrated to your eyes.

[edit] Tips

 If the barrels of the binoculars cannot come close together enough to suit your eyes (in other
words, if an annoying gray shadow keeps on appearing), then the binoculars are too big for you.

 You may want to tape the diopter ring in place when you are done calibrating to prevent it from
shifting.

[edit] Warnings

 Don't drop your binoculars.

How to Build a Birdhouse

Having birds in your garden brings beauty, not to mention the sweetness of bird songs. If you want to
keep the birds coming back, one way is to provide them with a home. It's even more fulfilling when you
make the birdhouse yourself. Not only will you have the satisfaction of building something beautiful,
but you'll also be able to relax on your patio and enjoy the view of birdlife at close range for seasons to
come.

[edit] Steps

1.

Figure 1 - Click to enlarge.

Prepare the pieces of wood. Align them as shown in Figure 1.

2. Start with the nails. Tap them into position at the joints. Then, apply waterproof glue along
the joint edges.

3. Butt and glue the two bottom sides together as shown in Figure 1.
4. Glue and nail the back section to the bottom sides.
5. Glue and nail the inside supports; see Fig. 1 for positioning on the back.
6. Drill a hole in the front section with the 1-3/8" (4.1 cm) hole saw, making sure the top of the
hole is 2" (5 cm) down from a corner (see finished photo for details). Use a 1/4" (.63 cm) bit to drill
 a hole for the dowel perch, 5-3/8" (14 cm) below the bottom of the larger entrance hole. Sand the
edges smooth, and sand all of the other inner parts of the bird house before nailing down the front.
7. Glue and nail the front to the bottom sides and the inside supports.
8. Position the roof sections so that they meet but do not butt at the top. Glue and nail the roof
sections into place. Notice how the roof overhangs the sides.
9. Glue the 5" (12.5 cm) dowel in the channel between the roof sections to complete this joint.
10. Sand all of the surfaces.
11. Glue the 3" ( 7.6 cm) dowel into position as a perch. [This perch may be eliminated as birds
do not need perches and it may in fact allow a predator a place to launch an attack on the
nestlings.]
12. Stain or paint your birdhouse's exterior to your liking!

[edit] Tips

 While it's a good idea to make the roof watertight, it's important to drill some small holes in the
bottom of the box for drainage, so any rainwater that does get in can drain away. Also, air
circulation helps keeps insect populations down.

 Never put food in a birdhouse. It's a nursery, not a kitchen. Food attracts predators and
insects! In fact, nest boxes and bird feeders should be placed far away from each other. Bird
feeders are great fun, and will attract a variety of birds, but place them in a different part of the
yard.
 This is a nice gift for nature lovers, gardeners, or for someone special on Father's Day or
Mother's Day!
 Don't forget to buy your mom one!

[edit] Warnings

 Put the birdhouse up high if you have any cats, or know that cats come into your garden. It is
safe to just presume that you should keep the house up high to discourage all predators.

 Before using your birdhouse, make sure the paint or stain is dry.
 Never paint or stain the inside of the bird house.
 Be careful when using treated lumber which often contains many dangerous chemical
compounds, such as arsenic which could poison the birdhouse's inhabitants.

[edit] Things You'll Need

 Hammer
 1/2" (1.25 cm) finishing nails
 Waterproof glue
 Sandpaper
 Drill with 1-3/8" (4.1 cm) hole saw and 1/4" (.63 cm) drill bit
 1/2" (1.25 cm) plywood in sizes shown in Figure 1, for two bottom sides and two inside
supports
 1/4" plywood for two roof sections, each 7" (17.5 cm) x 5" (13 cm)
 1/4" (.63 cm) plywood for the front and back sections, each 5-7/8" (15 cm) square
 5" (12.5 cm) length of dowel to finish the top
 Optional: 3" (7.6 cm) length of dowel for bird perch
 Optional: bird-safe paint or stain

Why Record Birds?

At the present time much effort is being made nationally to record the
biodiversity of our countryside. Birds can often indicate the value of a habitat for
other animals and plants. Those who watch birds have an important role to play
at the local level by recording the species they see. A species list for any site
visited can provide useful information about the site and about the distribution of
the recorded species at the time of the visit. However, a well documented record
provides additional valuable information which may lead to an improved
understanding of the bird's requirements and eventually provide the scientific
basis for its conservation.

The object of this contribution is to provide guidance on the compilation and

submission of bird records which hopefully may improve the quality of the
records and encourage those who have not previously submitted records to,
"have a go".

Back to top

Recording Procedure

Bird records should be submitted on the standard recording slip used by the
Ornithological Section and obtainable from the Section Recorder. Alternatively
you can download the recording slips from this Web site. Records entered onto a record
slip should relate only to the locality specified against SITE NAME. Please use another slip for a
different site. A copy of the slip is shown below together with examples of imaginary records.

SORBY ORNITHOLOGICAL GROUP RECORD SLIP (one per site)

SITE NAME Nitticarhill to Barlborough OBSERVER(S) A.N.Other
Road
10km Grid Sq (2 fig) - SE/SK 47  
YEAR.'02. GR of SPECIES DETAILS Nos, Sex, Activity, Habitat
Day Month bird etc
4/6 fig
65 483777 Whitethroat 1 singing from top of Hawthorn tree in
hedge, W side of
      road. Adjacent barley field E4.1.7
"" 482775 Grey Partridge 2 flushed from edge of grass field with
cattle E1.2.2
10 5 483776 Green 1 flying into Speetley Plantation from
Woodpecker direction of
      Longrybank Wood A1.1.259
       
       
       
       
       

The following explanatory notes relate to the headings on the slip.

SITE NAME

This should be the name printed on the Ordnance Survey maps (1:50,000 or
1:25,000). If the site has no name, sufficient detail should be given to enable the
Recorder to locate the site and check the grid reference. If no grid reference is
given and the observer uses a parochial name, the Recorder may be unable to
locate the site.

10 Km Grid Sq

This is for filing your original record slip. The Sorby recording area overlaps two
100 km grid squares, designated by the letters SK and SE. Delete whichever is
not appropriate and add the appropriate 10 km square. For example the centres
of Sheffield and Doncaster are situated in SK38 and SE5O respectively.

OBSERVER(S)

Please give full initials to avoid confusion with similarly named members. Where
several persons have observed a rarity (see final section) please give the name
of the person who validates the record.

If a site covers two 10 km squares please use a separate slip for each square and
allocate the birds accordingly. For example, the River Derwent between Leadmill
Bridge and Grindleford crosses SK 28 and SK 27. This section of the river is a
popular location for which many records are submitted. However, without
knowing in which square the birds occurred it is not possible to map the
occurrence of the relevant species because the record slip cannot be assigned to
either square.

If you cannot give a map reference please describe the locality in sufficient detail
to enable the Recorder to assign the record to the nearest 10 km square.

YEAR, Day, Month

Only one year should be shown; the day and month should be shown against
each species if the dates are different. Records for different days or months can
be included on the same slip providing they all relate to the same site. It is
better to use different slips for different months if the records are for use in the
monthly Bird Report.
GR of Bird 4/6 Fig

The four or six figure grid reference shown in this column is intended to give as
precise as possible location of the bird. However, please note that a six figure
grid reference implies a location to the nearest l00 m and this may not be
possible in an area of open country such as moorland where no recognizable
features are shown on the map. It is also not possible to give such a precise
locations using a small scale map. The 1 inch to I mile (1:63,360) scale is the
limit for such a grid reference. An accurate grid reference requires the use of a
2˝ inches to 1 mile map (1:25,500). If a four figure grid reference is used to
locate a site such as a wood or reservoir please delete the words "of bird" in the
column heading.

DETAILS

Nos
If precise numbers are not easily obtained some indication of abundance is better
than no count. For large numbers an estimate such as 50-100, several hundreds
or 500-1000 is more useful than the general statement that the species is very
common or abundant.

Sex
It is always valuable to know which sex (&/or age) is involved in a particular
activity. In the case of wildfowl the ratio of the sexes in flocks is interesting;
remember that it is not always easy to distinguish between females and
immature birds; in this case the abbreviation F/Imm in parenthesis can be used.

Activity
This covers aspects such as singing/calling, display, aggression, active feeding,
nest-building. roosting.

Habitat
There are several systems of classifying habitats or land-use but the one which is
most useful in defining those features of the environment which may be relevant
to the occurrence of a bird is the system devised by Crick for the British Trust for
Ornithology (BTO). It is used by the BTO for their nest record scheme and in
national surveys of selected species. It does not require specialised botanical
knowledge. The scheme can be viewed here. Nine major habitat types are
recognised designated by the letters A-I "A" corresponds to woodland "B" to
scrub land etc. "H", coastal habitats, is omitted not being applicable to our Area.
Within each of the major habitats are three further levels that are used to record
increasingly detailed information. In general, levels 2-4 correspond respectively
to species composition, management type and structure. The options at level 2
are mutually exclusive, so only one can be recorded by the observer. Thus "Al"
signifies broadleaved woodland and A2 coniferous woodland. This is not the case
for the two lowest levels where several code numbers can be recorded together.
Stops are used to separate the level 2 code number from the level 3 code
number(s) as well as level 3 from level 4 code numbers. Examples are shown on
the Recording Slip.

Remember, the more information you give the more valuable your record
becomes for the science of ornithology and its applications to issues such as
conservation. However, this system of habitat recording allows for an almost
infinite number of code combinations and in the interests of practicality it is
recommended that the length of the code string is restricted to 8 digits including
the two stops This is the limit imposed by the earlier recording software. A
shorter coding can be reported.

If you have difficulty in deciding how to code (not all habitats are covered) a
brief description would be useful as well as any detail not covered by the coding
system such as crop type. Such comments can be added to this section of the
Recording Slip In the case of water-bodies, please remember that it is the
recreational activities actually going on at the time of your visit which matter -
events at other times can be mentioned as a general comment.

Other Information
Include such information as time, weather conditions, direction of flight,
associated species and whether they are together in a single flock.

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What Species to Record

The simple answer is - all species. It is often the so called "common" birds which
are overlooked for which we do not have reliable maps of distribution or
abundance. Changes in the abundance of such species may be overlooked just
because they are assumed to be "common". The House Sparrow is a good
example. It has become increasingly scarce, particularly in the urban and
suburban areas, but its demise has only recently been recognised. However,
common sense must dictate the submission of records of the "common" birds.

Limitations of time and space mean that every sighting of every Blackbird for a
given locality is not required. If you watch an area regularly a summary of the
numbers seen in winter and in the breeding season or at times of passage is
adequate. Similarly regular counts of the less common species in a woodland or
other habitat will establish the pattern of changing numbers and a summary
giving peaks and troughs will suffice. All birds seen on a random visit should be
recorded so that there is at least one record of each species for the locality on
the data base.

Large and unusual numbers (or their absence where previously recorded) and
the presence of species in unexpected places (such as the town centres) should
be reported. Unusual nest-sites and behaviour and the size of roosts are all
worth recording.
Include records of "escapes" and species which have been introduced and
liberated and which may now be establishing feral populations.

Rare birds require special treatment (see final section).

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Where to Record

This depends very much on the interests of the observer, the time available and
the facility for travel. For the Sorby recording area we need to know the species
which breed, winter or pass through on migration and the types of habitat where
they occur. Your garden, the city parks or the rural countryside are all a potential
source of records.

Certain sites, usually wetland reserves, are valuable for monitoring the breeding
success outside Britain of our visiting waders and waterfowl. Fortunately these
sites are well watched by Sorby members. However, the health of the breeding
populations in our own countryside should be our main concern and
unfortunately farmland, which comprises the greater part of our recording area,
is poorly recorded. The general decline in the numbers of many of our farmland
species is now well established but their local distribution may be patchy and less
well known. The Corn Bunting is one such species. Bird recording on farmland,
particularly if undertaken as a long term commitment at the same site, can be
rewarding and valuable in providing a base line for future comparisons. The same
is true for woodlands, heaths and upland habitats. In general, sites near the
edge of our Recording Area are under-recorded.

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Submission of Records
Please submit your records to the Recorder of the Ornithological Section either
by post (address on the Sorby Programme card) or by E-mail using downloaded
recording slips to birdrecords@sorby.org.uk. Records should, if possible, be
sent in the first week of the month following the month to which the records
refer. This is primarily to ensure that interesting records can be included in the
monthly bird report which is compiled from a computer printout. Records sent in
later lose their topicality and could affect conclusions based on too little
evidence. All records eventually find their way onto the database.

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What Happens to your Bird Records

After the information on your record slips has been stored in the computer, the
record slips are retained and filed under the appropriate 10 km square. This
makes it possible to check information should the need arise and to refer to
detailed comments not entered onto the computer.
 Records are most often used to provide species lists for sites and to provide
maps showing the geographical distribution of selected species. The Sorby NHS
does not produce an annual bird report since its recording area overlaps part or
all of areas covered by local bird clubs or county societies which produce annual
reports. Our monthly reports of selected records are sent to the Recorders or
report editors of these organisations for use in their annual reports.

The use of a computer, makes it possible to access other kinds of information

and carry out other types of analysis relatively quickly. For example, the
chronological distribution of selected records can be plotted and average dates of
movements, arrivals and departures easily calculated as well as average flock
sizes. The incidence of selected features of bird behaviour, habitat preferences
and species commonly found in association can be readily sorted.

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"Difficult" Species and Rarities

Records of such species must be accompanied by a field description and
supporting drawing made at the time of observation and not after consulting a
Field Guide. The evidence will then be passed to the Records Committee of the
Society or Bird Club in whose area the species was seen. A Records Committee
comprises persons who are experienced in bird identification and who will assess
the evidence to decide whether the record can be published in an Annual Report.
If the record is rejected the reasons are made known to the observer who has a
right of appeal. After acceptance, records of County or National rarities are
forwarded to the appropriate County recorders and/or to the British Birds Rarities
Committee.

The ideal record should, as far as possible, provide the following information
(abbreviated from British Birds 1962, 55, 559-60):

A. Field notes taken during observation.

1. Size (estimated or compared).
2. Size and shape of bill, length of legs, shape of wings, length of tail etc.
(compare with similar known species).
3. Plumage description and position of any distinctive markings supported by
field sketches.
4. Colour of bill, legs, feet and eyes.
5. Behaviour: flight action and quality of call notes.
B. Field notes made immediately after observation.
1. Associated birds if any.
2. Nature of ground and use made by bird of cover.
3. Distance from bird, angle of view: period of observation.
4. Weather, visibility and optical aids.
C. Personal detail.
1. Previous experience of species and of species with which confusion is
possible.

Lists of species for which descriptions are required are published in the Annual
Reports of the Yorkshire Naturalists' Union and those of local societies such as
the Sheffield Bird Study Group and Derbyshire Ornithological Society.
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Confidential Records
Reference to breeding or suspected breeding of certain species which are nationally and/or locally rare
will be reported in the Sorby monthly reports in general terms and at the discretion of the Recorder.
Such records are registered as Confidential on the data base and are not used in subsequent analyses.
The record slips containing the confidential records are stored separately. A member may request
confidentiality and such records should be entered onto separate record slips.

Sound Analysis Software

Software for bioacoustics

Welcome!    Bienvenue!    Willkommen!    Bienvenido    Benvenuto!

This is a compilation of WEB addresses that provide software and information for bioacoustics: as
freeware, shareware, commercial trial versions, or commercial software. There is a wide variety of
software available, and I outline a good number of sources on these pages, with annotation.

My effort is meant to be in a spirit of information-sharing. I am not trying to promote any particular

system, just outline what is available. What I suggest is people check out what is offered to see how it
serves their needs, hardware, and pocketbooks. I might be able to answer questions if you respond
directly. Also, a brief caveat: You get what you pay for. For a lot of these free- and shareware
programs, what they will accomplish is limited. Their development is not necessarily with a particular
goal or application, and the ability to perform complex analyses is often limited by the simpler
programs. Further, the graphics capabilities may not be top quality. However, many of these programs
often offer rather straight-forward options for several things and, if you are not engaging in full-time
or data-intensive work, and select carefully, they can perform remarkably well at a lot of tasks. As the
price increases so does the quality. A small investment would likely be rewarding as these mid-priced
commercial programs provide considerable flexibility. Perhaps most important, particularly if you are
not as comfortable doing the trouble-shooting, is that the commercial companies provide technical
support! Finally, the best systems are, logically, the more expensive, but their overall performance is
the very best.

For people trying to decide on a system or software my suggestion would be to clearly answer three
main questions: First, what exactly is my research question, and what type(s) of procedures will I need
a system to perform? Second, what hardware do I currently have, and what might I need to
change/add/upgrade? (most of the software listed below will work with a wide variety of sound cards).
Third, what am I willing/able to pay? Having balanced those three major variables in the equation is
probably the best starting point. Having answered those questions, you can then look for resources that
address particular needs. Or select a few that seem reasonable, and e-mail specific questions to
whomever hosts the site.

For those who need a opening primer of computer-sound hardware and software I suggest you begin
with the first few links listed under Resources and Utility Programs below. These give a good
introduction to the hardware involved in sound acquisition and replication, and introductory
information for related topics.

For those interested in recording equipment, I've added a section on companies specializing in
recorders, microphones, etc. under the recording equipment section.
Also, web-related software has been placed on a separate page

The information presented here is mostly PC-based, as that is the platform I mostly use, and what
seems to be widely available. I've included a section on Mac-specific systems, and many of the multi-
listing pages have lots of information on what is available.

Home Biography Various Bird Songs Vireos Vitae

Index
General Bioacoustics Listings
Animal-specific systems
General Signal-analysis Programs
Speech Research Resources
Windows and Web-related software
Resources in other Disciplines
Resource and Utility Sites
Mac Platform
Unix Platform
Recording Equipment

Animal-specific systems and programs

A number of companies and individuals offer systems specifically designed for animal research. Some
are commercially available, some are research-developed, and available for free. The main
consideration for these systems is that the designer(s) were operating within a framework of animal-
related research, whether particular groups, or animal vocal systems in general. Most were developed
within an academic context.

 Signal and RTS from engineering Design. Probably the most thorough animal-oriented
system available, and the system I use primarily. Extremely powerful and flexible, but
requires some effort to learn. Windows-based programs available.

 Avisoft is a company that makes a software package designed for bird and other
animal researchers. They have a "lite" version available as a download.
 Raven is a software package for sound analysis from the Cornell group. Free trial
version.
 Sound Ruler is a free analysis and graphics package designed for animal sound
analysis. Looks promising.
 SpectraPro SpectraPlus and SpectraLab: sound analysis software packages designed
for Dolphin work. Has 30-day trial versions for download.
 Sound Analysis Pro: sound analysis and related software
 Windows and DOS-based software for animal work, from the bioacoustics group at
Pavia, Italy
  BatSound software system: Real-time Imaging/Recording. Has evaluation version as
download. Listed by Pettersson Elektronik AB: the Swedish Bat Detector company.
 Syrinx program designed for real-time and interactive playbacks, as well as signal
imaging and editing.
 Spectrogram 11 by R.S. Horne--A shareware ($25) program that does simple but
effective spectrograms, available as download. New version does real-time
acquisition.
 Sonobat: Program designed for bat research, runs on both Mac and Windows
platforms
 Ishmael: Sound acquisition program with automatic call (signal) recognition, file
annotation, acoustic localization

General Bioacoustics Listings

There are several sound/software link listings related specifically to animal bioacoustics, and they
offer a lot of links to various sources of software. Many of the sources I have listed below can be
found at these sites. There are a number of general animal/sound/software related pages, and I begin
with those. These are places much like this, and good places to find longer descriptions and reviews,
etc. of software and systems.

 The Acoustical Society of America hosts an Animal research resource

 The Bioacoustics Research Program at Cornell University and the Laboratory of

Ornithology are good sources for lots of bioacoustic information.
 The Software archive for scientific study of Animal Behavior at Indiana University
 Dolphin Study Group, based in Singapore: Tropical Marine Science Institute lists
software/hardware links and information.
 MobySoft: Web library for bioacoustic software programs. Software Contributions
Encouraged.
 Whale-Watching-Web site, based in Helsinki: Bioacoustics-links page

General Signal-analysis Programs

There are a good number of acoustic/signal analysis programs not specifically designed with
animal work in mind, but for general scientific signal analyses. Consider that sound can be
viewed as a subset of any signal, whether brain-waves, seismic waves, or sound, and these
systems have features or tools that would suit our purposes. Many can be "customized" for
partucular needs.

 Spectra-Plus is a flexible system that does a lot of signal analysis. They have a 30-day
trial download.

 National Instruments: Science Instrumentation including LabView

  Dadisp: A "signal management" program with a lot of options: filtering, editing,
analyses: They have a "student" version available for download.
 Sigview: real-time spectral analysis software with various analysis and imaging tools.
21-day download available.
 Micro LAB is a bundled software package with Real Time Stereo Spectrum Analyser,
Oscilloscope and Signal Generator (PC platform).
 FFT Properties is PC based for real time Scope/Spectrum spectral analysis and FIR
filter design.
 Scope DSP and Scope FIR: Two programs for F/T analysis and filtering (FIR).
Shareware/with trial downloads . Doesn't have A-to-D input; utilizes existing digital
files. Student (limited) and Pro versions.
 ParEq: A real-time parametric equalizer.
 DAQARTA! commercial company offering I/O equipment: Data AcQuisition And
Real-Time Analysis system

Speech Research Resources

The area of speech research has a LOT to offer, but it requires a bit of background/familiarity, and not
designed for animal work per se, although most will do many of the things we require. Animal
research has benefitted a great deal from the development of instrumentation in Speech Research,
particularly in software systems. Many of them do the types of analyses we desire (file manipulation,
waveform editing, synthesis, graphics), and often offer tools not familiar to or infrequently used by
most animal researchers (e.g. LPC, cepstral analysis and various types of pitch/formant tracking).
The Comp-speech page provides a general listing of software and information and is a useful place to
see what is out there. In addition I list a few particular examples of software systems available in both
the research and speech therapy arenas, as well as some information pages from speech research
groups.

 Comp Speech: A Speech-research site with lots of general information,links to

programs, and software information

 The Comp Speech software listings

 The UCSC Perception Lab speech research links page with lots of Speech Research
Links
 University of Nebraska Speech Perception Laboratory Resources: links to stimuli and
software that may be useful to investigators in the fields of speech, hearing, and
speech perception.

Speech-oriented software systems:

 PRAAT speech analysis software. Excellent general program that does analyses, good
graphics, and statistical analyses. Available in PC, UNIX, LINUX and MAC
platforms. Recommended.

 SIL International: Several speech-related programs for both PC and MAC systems.
Free downloads.
  WaveSurfer: Nice self-contained system, designed for speech, but with lots of options.
Windows, Linux and Macintosh.
 Sensimetrics' SpeechStation2: speech-oriented sound analysis system.
 TF32: is a speech analysis package. Demo version allows analysis of existing files and
commercial version allows acquisition with real-time spectrogram or pitch trace
recording.
 Sonogram: Java-based sonogram program for speech analysis: sonograms, cepstral
analysis, FFT and LPC.
 SFS: A free research developed Speech Analysis Program Download

Windows and Web-related software

The web-related resources are on a separate page. Lots of good programs available in this
arena, including some very flexible editors-- worth exploring.

Resources in other Disciplines

There are additional resources available in research/academic areas outside of animal-related areas,
and many have software that might suit our purposes.

 The SETI league (Search for Extra Terrestrial Intelligence) is a source for various
software, and they have a signal-processing listing. Mostly signal/noise extraction
programs, signal detection. Slightly different focus, but likely some interesting
potential applications here.

 CERL: Computer Music Site at University of Ill.

 Pro-tools 24: Music-oriented editing and signal manipulation program. Versions for
Mac, and PC systems.

Resources and Utility Programs

 Excellent information page on Soundcards-- Geared toward general computer audio

 Glossary of Recording Terms

 Roland A/D USB converter for direct DAT input to computer
 To read DAT ID numbers and save them to corresponding digital audio files try
Antex.
 FFT Properties: a program for studying and understanding Fourier tranformations,
does Scope emulation, Spectrum analysis, filtering.
 Zero-crossing program for obtaining cycle-to-cycle frequency.
 Snagit: A simple screen-capture program.
 Oxford Sound research information. Lots of general information and links.
 A long list of general acoustics and sound-related links.
Mac Platform
(Also note above listings for other programs designed to run on both PC and Mac platforms.
There are several in the Speech Research Resources)

 Canary- From the bioacoustics Group at Cornell. Probably the most widely used MAC
animal-sound system.

 Wild Spectra: Research developed real-time spectrogram program from University of

North Carolina
 BSound: is a utility program for sound designed to run with Igor Pro. Also has Real
Time acquisition.
 SINGIT!: Program for interactive playbacks of digital songs using a Macintosh.
 Audiograph is a sonogram display and measurement program.
 Signalyze: Developed as a speech-analysis system, but performs a variety of signal
analysis procedures.
 Soundscope: Another Speech-based system, similar to previous. Also Superscope, for
waveform analysis.
 Felttip Sound Studio: Mac Audio Editor
 Peak 2.0: editing software by BIAS software; has lite version and download demo-
designed for music but does most editing functions.
 University of Texas Office of Telecommunication Services MAC sound program
listings
 SoundHack. Music-developed editing and FFT-based analysis. Download available.
 Lemur software: for MAC Interesting-looking sinusoidal-modeling based analysis
system developed by the CERL Group

Unix Platform

 Links to Linux/Unix sound-related software can be found on the Linuxlinks site

including a listing for Signal Analysis software.

Recording Equipment

I have a page devoted to recording resources: Recording Equipment

 Maurice Stith is also an excellent source for equipment, with on-line catalog:
Marice Stith E-mail

Further information on recording equipment is on the Recording Equipment Page

If you find any links you think should be included here, please e-mail me! Also, I don't necessarily
keep up to date on whether these links are outdated; if you find any that no longer work, let me know.
Or, if I've mis-represented something, please inform me.

In addition, and most important, if you should try some of the software I've listed here and can add
information on it's applicability to animal-related research, please drop me a note about it, particularly
if the application is novel or interesting.

Finally, I can answer simple questions and make recommendations: Please give me brief answers to
the 3 questions I've listed above

An Introduction to Recording
This page aims to give a brief introduction to natural history recording and
hopefully encourage more people to submit records, particularly those who may
not already have done so.

What is Recording?
What Use Are Records?
What Should I Record?
Where Should I Record?
What Information do I Need to Record?
What Do I Do With My Records?
Management of Records
...and Finally

What is Recording?
In order to increase our knowledge of the distribution of species in the natural
world, it is necessary to know exactly where and when they occur. By carefully
observing and noting down what you see, it is possible over a period of time to
produce comprehensive distributions of a large number of different species. This
information can be collected by experts and beginners alike in the form of
records, each of which details observations of particular species. Thus, a record
is simply information detailing an observation of a particular species, at
a given place and time. It follows therefore that recording is simply the
process of collecting and analysing this information.

The Sorby Natural History Society is primarily interested in the natural history of
Sheffield and the surrounding area and regularly publishes maps showing the
distribution of particular species in this area. These maps could not be compiled
without the help of the many Sorby members and other keen naturalists
collecting and submitting records.

Your records are just as important whether you are an expert in the particular
field or you are just beginning, providing the information you record is accurate.
By observing whatever you are interested in and carefully noting down all
relevant information, it is easy to make a significant contribution.
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What Use Are Records?

The information gained from accurate records can be put to numerous uses,
probably the most important being to reveal possible changes in the status of our
wildlife and to provide information of value for its of conservation. Provided
enough records have been submitted, rare species can easily be identified, even
those which may appear to be locally common but which are not widely
distributed. This information is most useful if it has been gathered over a number
of years and is 'at hand' whenever it is required.

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What Should I Record?

Anything! If you have a particular interest in plants for example, take careful
notes of any plants you observe (no matter how common you may think they
are). Alternatively, ornithologists can record details of any birds they spot. As
you may have guessed, the important word here is any; All records are
important whether you think the species you have noted is common or extremely
rare.

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Where Should I Record?

Anywhere! If you have a particular favourite location you like visiting or

somewhere you have never been before, you can always collect useful
information. The Sorby Natural History Society is particularly interested in
records from the Sorby Recording Area.

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What Information do I Need to Record?

The most important thing to remember is that the more detail your records
contain, the more useful they are. You should always include the species, your
name, the date and a grid reference. Any extra information such as habitat,
behaviour or abundance, will increase the value of your record immensely.

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What Do I Do With My Records?

All your records can be sent to the relevant section recorders. They can then be
collated with records obtained from other people and analysed to provide a
complete view.

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Management of Records
Records are managed by the Society, and made available to members, Biological
Records Centres, and conservation organisions.

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...and Finally
By sending in your records, it is possible to make a valuable contribution to
further our understanding of the natural world - it is not difficult and anyone can
contribute!

Garden birds

Bellbird
(male olive-green, dark head with purple gloss; female browner,
with white stripe across side of head below eye)

Top - male
Bottom - female

Black-backed gull
(sexes similar, large, adults with black wings, white head,
and yellow bill; juveniles brown all over)

Blackbird
(male black with orange bill; female dark brown with
brown/dull-orange bill)
Chaffinch
(male blue-grey top of head, pinkish-brown underparts, white
wingbars; female brownish-grey, white wingbars)

Fantail
(sexes similar, pied or black, long tail often fanned)

Goldfinch
(sexes similar, red face, white neck, black crown, black
wings with gold bars)

Greenfinch
(male olive-green, yellow on edges of wing and tail, pale heavy
bill; female browner, dull olive-green)

Top - male
Bottom - female

Grey warbler
(sexes similar, grey upperparts, whitish underparts,
conspicuous white tip on tail)
Hedgesparrow (or dunnock)
(sexes similar, brown upperparts, grey breast, fine black bill,
red eye, orange-brown legs)

House sparrow
(male chestnut-brown upperparts, greyish-white underparts, large
black bib in breeding season, smaller in winter, conical bill; female
paler brown upperparts, greyish-white underparts)

Top - male
Bottom - female

Red-billed gull
(sexes similar, grey wings, white head with red bill in adults,
dark bill in juveniles)

Redpoll
(sexes similar in winter, dull brown with crimson forehead,
male develops pink patch on breast in breeding season)

Silvereye (waxeye)
(sexes similar, small, green with white ring around eye)
Song Thrush
(sexes similar, brown upperparts, pale breast with dark
brown spots, yellowish-brown bill)

Starling
(sexes similar, glossy black with yellow bill in breeding
season; non-breeding birds spotted white with dark bill)

Tui
(sexes similar, adults black with white tuft on throat)

Yellowhammer
(male bright yellow head and underparts; female