Bhoutan - The Dragon Kingdom
The splendour of the Himalaya with an emerald edge. Bhutan
is home to rolling hills all shades of green as well as looming
masses of snow, ice, and stone. Imagine a country the size of
Switzerland where the climate and landscape range from
subtropical to high altitude, rich with all manner of flora and
fauna. As lovely the physical aspect is of Bhutan, its cultural
and historical legacy is equally compelling. There is stunning
traditional architecture of wood, stone, and brightly-coloured
paint, especially in the old monasteries and forts, or dzong,
that protected various parts of Bhutan from Tibetan and
Indian invasions and now serve as the seats of authority of
administration as well as the prevelant Mahayana Buddhism.
It's a misconception that Bhutan and its religion are mere
reflections of Tibet. In truth, its geography and history of
even more extreme, but carefully calibrated isolation make it
truly unique. Its polygamous Eton-educated monarch extols
the virtues of thinking of development in terms of Gross
National Happiness rather than GDP, and only allowed television into the country a few years ago. Its numerous highly-educated
citizens are still required to wear traditional dress for everyday official and professional purposes, and all the old festivals and
arts and crafts, such as weaving and woodwork still hold sway over ordinary folk. Bhutan is the only country of its kind left in the
world, and one that no more than 5,000 visitors a year can experience.
A quick historical background
Like with Tibet, for most people the history of Bhutan 'really begins' after the introduction of Buddhism there in the 7th century
by Padmasambhava who brought this already centuries-old religion from India. This has as much to do with the prevelance of oral
history up to this point as the fact that there was no one central authority that defined 'Bhutan' as such; rather, there were a
series of independent valleys ruled by feudal masters. Mahayana Buddhism's Kargyupa school became increasingly widely
accepted by the denizens of these various valleys, and slowly political and administrative power shifted from being the exclusive
reserve of feudal lords, to being shared between them and the monasteries and monks of what has come to be called Drukpa
Buddhism. In the early 17th century a Drukpa monk called Ngwang Namgyal managed to pull together various aristocratic and
feudal families from all over what is now Bhutan in support of his proposed theocratic government. The cornerstone of this
system was the division of powers between two rulers, one responsible for the spiritual matters of the country, and the other for
the civil. An ill-advised pact between the spiritual head and the British East India Company brought to head various rivalries that
had been simmering under the surface, and after a lot of wrangling and intrigue, finally in 1907, a new, single monarch came to
power assuming all responsibility.Urgyen Wangchuk's great-grandson, Jigme Singye Wangchuk is now king of Bhutan. Amid
considerable continuing controversy over the expelling of over 100,000 Bhutanese of Nepali origin in 1990, in 2003 the king put
forth a controlled gradual form of village-level democracy. There are interesting times ahead, given the very cautious
modernisation of many aspects of Bhutanese life, the traditional acceptance for divided forms of government, the refugee
situation, and the new 'democratic' experiment
Geography
Bhutan is a little landlocked country,just about the size of Switzerland. Small as it is, Bhutan is home to five climatic zones - the
tropical, subtropical, temperate, sub-alpine, and alpine. It is bounded by Tibet on the north, and various Indian states - West
Bengal and Assam to the south, and Arunachal Pradesh eastwards. In Bhutan the snow peaks and alpine meadows give way to
thickly forested hills and ravines, which in turn give way to a small - 5-8 km wide - strip of plains, part mangrove swamp, part
permanent rice fields, called the Dooars. Bhutan is home to the sacred Chomolhari mountain (7,300 m).
Weather
While the summers are never blazing, temperatures in the lower reaches of the Dooars, can go up into the high-20s (Centigrade).
Around Paro and Thimphu the lows in winter are around 0 (C), while higher up it can be considerably below freezing in the
winter. The monsoon runs from June through September.
People and language
Bhutanese society, once pastoral and nomadic, is now largely (90%) agricultural. The hill farmers live in the temperate central
valleys, where there is access to good sources of water and many hillsides to terrace.There are three main ethnic/ linguistic
groups in Bhutan: the Ngalongs from the western and central parts of the country consider themsleves descendants of 9th
century Tibetan immigrants, and are the most influential group in religion and politics; the indigeneous Sharchops in eastern
Bhutan: and the southern Bhutanese Lhotsampa, people of Nepali descent of many different ethnicities, castes, and religions,
descendants of workers brought in in the late 19th century to develop the southern part of the country. Since the expulsion of a
large majority of the Nepali-speaking Bhutanese in 1990, the population of Bhutan is at 600,000.
The national language is Dzongkha, which is related to Tibetan. The Ngalongs and Sharchops speak Tibet-Burman languages,
while the Lhotsampas speak Nepali as their mother tongue. Hindi is also widely spoken in Bhutan.
Religion and festivals
Prayer flags fluttering against a blue sky and verdant rolling hills, and gnarled hands spinning prayer wheels - this really is the
most obvious manifestation of Drukpa Buddhism. Then come the monasteries with their elaborate thangka, frescoes, and murals,
their elaborate brightly-painted woodwork, and intricate statuary. The festivals are a visual, aural, and theatrical delight with
deep horns and gongs, chanting, masks, and dances.
The most distinctive of Bhutanese festivities is the tsechu, or masked dance. Differents villages and towns celebrate their tsechu
at different times of the year. People walk for miles to attend these revelries and watch the masked dancers tell stories of
historical or religious significance, such as how Buddhism was brought to Bhutan, or the triumph of good over evil. They exchange
news and dress up, and reaffirm their commitment to their faith and their community.
The arts, architecture and culture
There is plenty of art and architecture, music and dance in Bhutan, but the most sophisticated art form here is the weaving
tradition. The fabrics of Bhutan, all handwoven according to a multitude of traditional regional patterns as well s innovations,
are stunning. There have been exhibits at the Smithsonian and other major Western museums, and some of the older samples are
virtual national treasures. The wood carvings, murals and frescoes in the dzong and monasteries, as well as the thangka are
sublime examples of how religious art can display both brilliant craftsmanship, as well as intricate systems of iconography.
Thangka uses pre-determined symbols and figures to tell various stories about the life of the Buddha and his many
manifestations. Ideally the paints used are of a deep, dull sheen and made from stone and other natural materials. There's a
whole set of conventions ruling the traditional consutruction of palaces, temples, and gardens, as also the lovely coloured
furniture that you also see in Lhasa and Kathmandu, usually in specialty shops.
Flora and fauna
In the more tropical parts of the country there are many varieties of bamboo, as well as the golden langur monkey, tiger,
elephant, rhino, and bison. Higher up are the obligatory yak and blue sheep, as well as the shy and endangered snow leopard.
Bhutan has an enornmous number of different butterfly types, making it heaven for a TKTK.
The Bhutanese flora is a delight - over 600 kinds of orchids, a few hundred of medicinal herbs, and some 50 rhododendrons. Not
to mention, naturally,
Food and drink
Bhutanese food is, quite simply, delicious. It's also very heavy on fresh, vitamin C-loaded, and spicy green chilli. But don't worry -
as a traveller you won't be expected to scarf down all your food loaded with heat; chefs at hotels, and cooks on tented treks are
no strangers to catrering to far milder palates. Bhutan is known for its delicious ema datshi and kawa datshi, mushroom and
potato respectively in a thin, slightly tangy, fresh-smelling cheese sauce. The cheese itself is the freshest farmer's cheese,
available at all the farmer's market at every city, town, and village. These dishes are eaten with the fragrant, unique Bhutanese
'red' rice that is more like a shiny pink when uncooked. Bhutanese love vegetables, as they do pork cooked in many ways. They
have in common with Tibetans the butter tea - yak butter mixed in with brick tea to create a liquid that is savory, almost soupy,
and very very buttery. Other preparations include the famous steamed or fried stuffed ravioli called momo and a savory stuffed
griddle bread called shabhalay.
BHUTAN
Geography
Mountainous Bhutan, half the size of Indiana, is situated on the southeast slope of the Himalayas, bordered on the north and
east by Tibet and on the south and west and east by India. The landscape consists of a succession of lofty and rugged
mountains and deep valleys. In the north, towering peaks reach a height of 24,000 ft (7,315 m).
Government
Bhutan's first national elections in March 2008 marked the country's shift from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional
monarchy.
History
Although archaeological exploration of Bhutan has been limited, evidence of civilization in the region dates back to at least
2000 B.C. Aboriginal Bhutanese, known as Monpa, are believed to have migrated from Tibet. The traditional name of the
country since the 17th century has been Drukyul, Land of the Drokpa (Dragon People), a reference to the dominant branch
of Tibetan Buddhism that is still practiced in the Himalayan kingdom.
For centuries, Bhutan was made up of feuding regions until it was unified under King Ugyen Wangchuck in 1907. The British
exerted some control over Bhutan's affairs, but never colonized it. Until the 1960s, Bhutan was largely isolated from the rest
of the world, and its people carried on a tranquil, traditional way of life, farming and trading, which had remained intact for
centuries. After China invaded Tibet, however, Bhutan strengthened its ties and contact with India in an effort to avoid
Tibet's fate. New roads and other connections to India began to end its isolation. In the 1960s, Bhutan also undertook social
modernization, abolishing slavery and the caste system, emancipating women, and enacting land reform. In 1985, Bhutan
made its first diplomatic links with non-Asian countries.
A pro-democracy campaign emerged in 1991, which the government claimed was composed largely of Nepali immigrants.
As a result, some 100,000 Nepali civil servants were either evicted or encouraged to emigrate. Most of them crossed the
border back into Nepal, where they were housed in UN-administered refugee camps. They continue to languish there a
decade later.
In 1998, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who is Bhutan's fourth hereditary ruler, voluntarily curtailed his absolute monarchy,
and in March 2005 released a draft constitution (not yet put to a referendum) that outlined plans for the country to shift to a
two-party democracy. In Dec. 2006, he abdicated in favor of his son, and Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchukin
became king. Prime Minister Lyonpo Khandu Wangchuk resigned in July 2007 so he could join a political party in
anticipation of the country's first elections, scheduled to be held in early 2008. Lyonpo Kinzang Dorji took over as the interim
prime minister.
Shift to a Constitutional Monarchy
Parliamentary elections, Bhutan's first national election, were held in March 2008, with turnout at about 80%. The pro-
monarchy Druk Phuensum Tshogpa, translated as the Bhutan Peace and Prosperity Party, won 44 out of 47 seats in
Parliament, trouncing the People’s Democratic Party. The election marked Bhutan's transition from an absolute monarchy to
a democracy. In April, Lyonpo Jigme Thinley, of the Peace and Prosperity Party, became prime minister. A new constitution
went into effect in July. Universal suffrage was implemented under the new constitution. Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck
was crowned king in November. At age 28, he is the world's youngest monarch. Jigme studied in India and the U.S. and
received a master's degree in international relations from Oxford.
Bhutan-kingdom between heaven &earth
GEOGRAPHY
The Kingdom of Bhutan lies in the eastern Himalayas, between Tibet to the north and the Indian
territories of Assam and West Bengal to the south. The Kingdom has a total area of about 47,000
square kilometers. Located in the heart of the high Himalayan mountain range, Bhutan is a land-
locked country surrounded by mountains. The sparsely populated Greater Himalayas, bounded to
the north by the Tibetan plateau, reach heights of over 7,300 meters, and extend southward
losing height, to form the fertile valleys of the Lesser Himalayas divided by the Wang, Sunkosh,
Trongsa and Manas Rivers. Monsoon influences promote dense forestation in this region and
alpine growth at higher altitudes. The cultivated central uplands and Himalayan foothills support
the majority of the population. In the south, the Daurs Plain drops sharply away from the
Himalayas into the large tracts of semi-tropical forest, savannah grassland and bamboo jungle.
PEOPLE
Early records suggest scattered clusters of inhabitants had already settled in Bhutan when the
first recorded settlers arrived 1,400 years ago. Bhutan's indigenous population is the Drukpa.
Three main ethnic groups, the Sharchops, Ngalops and the Lhotsampas (of Nepalese origin),
make up today's Drukpa population. Bhutan's earliest residents, the Sharchops reside
predominantly in eastern Bhutan. Their origin can be traced to the tribes of northern Burma and
northeast India. The Ngalops migrated from the Tibetan plains and are the importers of Buddhism
to the kingdom. Most of the Lhotsampas migrated to the southern plains in search of agricultural
land and work in the early 20th century.
Bhutan's official language is Dzongkha. Given the geographic isolation of many of Bhutan's
highland villages, it is not surprising that a number of different dialects have survived. Bhutan has
never had a rigid class system. Social and educational opportunities are not affected by rank or by
birth. Bhutanese women enjoy equal rights with men in every respect. To keep the traditional
culture alive Bhutanese people wear the traditional clothing that has been worn for centuries.
Bhutanese men wear a 'gho,' a long robe tied around the waist by a belt. The women's ankle
length dress is called a kira, made from beautifully colored and finely woven fabrics with
traditional patterns. Necklaces are fashioned from corals, pearls, turquoise, and the precious
agate 'zee' stones which the Bhutanese call 'tears of the gods'.
RELIGION
Bhutan is the only country in the world to retain the Tantric form of Mahayana Buddhism (Drukpa
Kagyu) as the official religion. The Buddhist faith has played and continues to play a fundamental
role in the cultural, ethical and sociological development of Bhutan and its people. It permeates
all strands of secular life, bringing with it a reverence for the land and its well being. Annual
festivals (tsechus and dromches) are spiritual occasions in each district. They bring together the
population and are dedicated to the Guru Rinpoche or other deities. Throughout Bhutan, stupas
and chortens line the roadside commemorating places where Guru Rinpoche or another high
Lama may have stopped to meditate. Prayer flags dot the hills, fluttering in the wind. They allow
Bhutanese people to maintain constant communication with the heavens.
WAY OF LIFE
While urban settlements have sprung up with the process of modernization, the majority of
Bhutanese people still live in small rural villages. The Bhutanese diet is rich in meat, dairy, grain
(particularly rice) and vegetables. Emadatse,dish made of chili, cottage cheese and herbs) is
considered, unofficially, the national dish with many interpretations to this recipe throughout the
country. Meat dishes, mainly pork, beef and yak, are lavishly spiced with chilies, and it is common
to see bright red peppers drying on rooftops in the sun. Salted butter tea, or suja, is served on all
social occasions. Chang, a local beer, and arra, a spirit distilled from rice, maize, wheat or barley,
are also common and widely favored. Doma or betel nut, is offered as a customary gesture of
greeting. The Bhutanese way of life is greatly influenced by religion. People circumambulating the
chortens with prayer beads and twirling prayer wheels are a common sight. Every Bhutanese
home has a special room used for prayers - a chosum.
GOVERNMENT
The form of government in Bhutan is as unique as the country. It is the only Democratic
Theocracy in the world. His Majesty King Jigme Singye Wangchuck is Bhutan's fourth king. A very
special man who has endeavoured to keep the culture and traditions of his county intact while
listening to the voice of his people. As one of the six goals of development of The Royal
Government of Bhutan is people's participation and decentralization of the government.
Bhutan is divided into 20 dzongkhags, or districts, each with its own representative elected every
3 years. The Tshogdu, or National Assembly has 154 members who fall into 3 catagories. The
largest group with 105 members are the Chimis. Representatives of Bhutan's 20 dzongkhas. The
regional monk bodies elect 12 monastic representatives who also serve a 3 year terms. Another
37 representatives are civil servants nominated by the king. They include 20 Dzongdas, (district
officers or mayors), ministers, secretaries of various government, and other high ranking officials.
The National Assembly meets in Thimpu once each year.
All the citizens of Bhutan, whether Government
officials or the common public, wear the national
dress at all times in public. The national dress for
men is called a Gho, which is long robe tied at the
waist and pouched over the belt to form a pocket.
Government senior officials wear a sword on
ceremonial occasions. Women, who enjoy equal
rights with men and play an active part in national
affairs, wear an ankle-length robe called Kira,
which is tied at the waist with a wide sash and
fastened at the shoulders with silver broaches.
The Bhutanese diet is rich in meat, dairy, grain (particularly rice) and vegetables.
Emadatse, made with green hot chilies and cheese stew, is considered the
national dish with many interpretations to this recipe throughout the kingdom. Meat
dishes, mainly pork, beef and yak, are lavishly spiced with chilies, and it is
common to see bright red peppers drying on rooftops in the sun. Salted butter tea,
or suja, is served on all social occasions. Though there is plenty of white rice,
Bhutanese prefer a local, slightly nutty, red variety. At high altitudes, wheat is the
staple. Several Tibetan-style dishes are common, including momos (dumplings),
and thukpa (noodles). Pork fat is popular in the wilds because of its high-energy
content. Chang, a local beer, and ara, a spirit distilled from rice, maize, wheat or
barley, are also common and widely favored. Doma or betel nut is offered as a
customary gesture of greeting.
