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Lulu Papillon : by Dam'M - Alexia Giraud

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
377 views8 pages

Lulu Papillon : by Dam'M - Alexia Giraud

Uploaded by

Alberto Andrades
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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« Lulu Papillon »

By Dam’M - Alexia Giraud


« Lulu Papillon »

BEFORE YOU BEGIN NOTIONS


• MC : white cotton fingering/sport (Catania) :
About the hook 125 m/137 y
For a nice and satisfactory result, make sure you use • CC1: beige cotton fingering/sport (Catania ) :
a smaller hook than usually recommended for your 55 m/60 y
yarn . This way you’ll get a fabric tight enough to avoid • CC2 : brown cotton fingering/sport (Catania ) :
small stretching gaps between your stitches once 45 m/50 y
stuffed, and so the filling doesn’t pop out later. Thus, if • 2 black 6mm safety eyes
the manufacturer recommends using a 3.5mm hook • Stuffing for toys
for your thread, you should rather select a 3mm hook. • Leftover yarn (for the school bag)
About the yarn • Tapestry needle
Personally, I prefer using cotton for this kind of project • 3 mm (US 2 ½) crochet hook
because of its lack of elasticity and as it won’t widen • 1 open marker to mark beginning of rows
after you filled in the stuffing material firmly. It also
has the advantage of being very strong and of aging
well over time. Should you choose to use another yarn, YARN
select it with these qualities for optimal results: no Catania - Schachenmayr SMC (fingering/sport)
elasticity and durability. The thickness of the yarn is 125 m (137 y) / 50 g.
of little importance: with a different yarn weight the
measurements of your project will simply change a
little. TRANSLATION
Translation by Florence (flao64) :
About the stuffing
http://www.ravelry.com/people/flao64
There are many sorts of stuffing materials and the
Really, a great Thank you !!!
choice is yours.
For best results I recommend stuffing your project Note : the whole pattern is worked in spiral, except
firmly : don’t hesitate to overstuff it as long as the yarn the bow tie and the school bag .
you’re using allows it.

SAFETY

To limit the parts that could fall off and pose


ABBREVIATIONS (US terminology) a threat to young children, it is recommended
to use safety eyes rather than sewn buttons
MC : Main color (white) for eyes. If the toy is made for a small child,
CC1 : Contrasting color 1 (beige) choose a stuffing material that is not too thin
CC2 : Contrasting color 2 (brown) (otherwise it might pass through the fabric and
St/sts : stitch/stitches be swallowed). Despite these precautions, it is
ch : chain important to note that this toy should not be put
sc : single crochet in the hands of a baby or toddler ; there is no
slst : slip stitch
way it could meet the actual safety standards
inc : increase (sc in indicated stitch 2 times)
for a toy. It should rather be seen as an object
dbinc : double increase (sc in indicated stitch 3 times)
of decoration and parents should be careful to
dec : decrease (sc next 2 stitches together)
keep it out of the reach of small children.
dbdec : double decrease (sc next 3 stitches together)

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -2-
« Lulu Papillon »

HEAD
Using MC, make a magic loop. (cf page 8)
R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop.
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts)
R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts)
R4 : [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts)
R5 : [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts)
R6 : [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts)
R7 : [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts)
R8 : [sc 6, inc] x6 (48 sts)
R9 : [sc 7, inc] x6 (54 sts)
R10 to R18 (9 rounds): sc across (54 sts)
R19 : [dec, sc 7] x6 (48 sts)
R20 : [dec, sc 6] x6 (42 sts)
R21 : [dec, sc 5] x6 (36 sts)
R22 : [dec, sc 4] x6 (30 sts)
R23 : [dec, sc 3] x6 (24 sts)
R24 : [dec, sc 2] x6 (18 sts)

End with a slst, and pass the yarn through the stitch
on your hook. Cut yarn, leaving a 32 inch (80 cm) tail
(you’ll need it to sew the head to the body).
To fix the eyes, use the decrease lines as a guide and
make sure the yarn tail is at the back of the head.
Place the eyes at the height of the round before the
first decreases, and put the eyes one stitch outside
the decrease line. Fill the head with stuffing very firmly !

R19 : [dec, sc 7] x6 (48 sts)


BODY R20 to 21 : sc across (48 sts)
R22: [dec, sc 6] x6 (42 sts)
Using CC2, make a magic loop. R23 to 24 : sc across (42 sts)
R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop. R25 : [dec, sc 5] x6 (36 sts)
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts) R26 : sc across (36 sts)
R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts) R27 : [dec, sc 4] x6 (30 sts)
R4 : [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts) R28 : sc across (30 sts)
R5 : [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts) R29 : [dec, sc 3] x6 (24 sts)
R6 : [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts) R30 : sc across (24 sts)
R7 : [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts) R31 : [dec, sc 2] x6 (18 sts)
R8 : [sc 6, inc] x6 (48 sts) R32 : sc across (18 sts)
R9 : [sc 7, inc] x6 (54 sts)
R10 to R17 (8 rounds) : sc across (54 sts) End with a slst, and pass the yarn through the stitch
on your hook. Cut yarn.
Switch to MC.
R18 : sc across (54 sts) Fill the body with stuffing firmly.

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -3-
« Lulu Papillon »

HAT R2 : [inc] x2, sc 6, [inc] x2, sc 8, [inc] x3 (28 sts)


R3 : inc, sc 27 (29 sts)
Using CC1, make a magic loop. R4 : sc 29 through back loop only!
R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop. R5 to R6 : sc across (29 sts)
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts) R7 : sc 9, [dec]x4, sc 10, dec (24 sts)
R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts)
R4 : [sc 2, inc] x6 (24 sts) Switch to MC.
R5 : [sc 3, inc] x6 (30 sts) R8 : sc 9, [dec] x3, sc 9 (21 sts)
R6 : [sc 4, inc] x6 (36 sts) R9 : sc 9, dbdec, sc 9 (19 sts)
R7 : [sc 5, inc] x6 (42 sts) R10 : sc 9, dec, sc 8 (18 sts)
R8 : [sc 6, inc] x6 (48 sts) R11 : sc across (18 sts)
R9 : [sc 7, inc] x6 (54 sts) R12 : [dec, sc 4] x3 (15 sts)
R10 to R21 (12 rounds) : sc across (54 sts) R13 to R15 : sc across (15 sts)
R22 : [dec, sc 7] x6 (48 sts) R16 : [dec, sc 3] x3 (12 sts)
Switch to CC2. R17 to R18 : sc across (12 sts)
R23 : [dec, sc 6] x6 (42 sts) Switch to CC2.
End with a slst, and pass the yarn through the stitch
on your hook. Cut yarn, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail R19 : [inc] x12 (24 sts)
(you’ll need it to sew the hat to the head later). R20 to R21 : sc across (24 sts)
End with a slst, and pass the yarn through the stitch
on your hook. Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail.
Fill the leg with stuffing firmly, making sure the foot is
well stuffed.

Make another leg.

ARMS
Using MC, make a magic loop.
R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop.
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts)
R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts)
R4 : [sc 5, inc] x3 (21 sts)
R5 to R6 : sc across (21 sts)
LEGS R7 : [dec, sc 1, dec, sc 2] x3 (15 sts)
R8 : sc across (15 sts)
Using CC1 : ch 6.
Starting in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 4 chains, Switch to CC1.
[sc 4] in last chain. Turn to work in the starting chain R9 : sc across (15 sts)
from the other side, sc in next 4 chains, [sc 3] in last R10 : dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6 (13 sts)
chain (15 sts). You’ll work the rest of the foot and leg
in spiral from now on. Switch to MC.
R11 to R12 : sc across (13 sts)
R1 : inc in 1st, place marker in the 1st sc you just
R13 : dec, sc 11 (12 sts)
made, marking the beginning of the round, sc 4, [inc]
R14 to R17 : sc across (12 sts)
x3, sc 5, [inc] x2 (21 sts)

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -4-
« Lulu Papillon »

Fill the hand with stuffing very firmly, and fill lightly the
rest of the arm. The following rounds won’t be stuffed.
R18 : dec, sc 10 (11 sts)
R19 to R25 : sc across (11 sts)
Make another sc, then close the arm by crocheting 5 sc
using one stitch from both sides of the arm at the same
time.
Pass the yarn through the stitch on your hook.
Cut yarn, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail.

Make another arm.

EARS
Using CC1, make a magic loop.
R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop.
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts)
R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts)
R4 : [sc 8, inc] x2 (20 sts)
R5 : [sc 9, inc] x2 (22 sts)
R6 to R8 : sc across (22 sts)

Switch to MC.
R9 to R12 : sc across (22 sts)
R13 : [dec, sc 9] x2 (20 sts)
R14 to R16 : sc across (20 sts)
R17 : [dec, sc 8] x2 (18 sts)
R18 to R20 : sc across (18 sts)
R21 : [dec, sc 7] x2 (16 sts)
R22 to R24 : sc across (16 sts)
R25 : [dec, sc 6] x2 (14 sts)
R26 to R28 : sc across (14 sts)
R29 : [dec, sc 5] x2 (12 sts) TAIL
R30 to R32 : sc across (12 sts)
R33 : [dec, sc 4] x2 (10 sts) Using MC, make a magic loop.
R34 to R36 : sc across (10 sts) R1 : sc 6 in the loop and tighten the loop.
R2 : [inc] x6 (12 sts)
Make another sc, then close the ear by crocheting 4 sc R3 : [sc , inc] x6 (18 sts)
using one stitch from both sides of the ear at the same R4 to R5 : sc across (18 sts)
time. Pass the yarn through the stitch on your hook. R6 : [dec, sc ] x6 (12 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail. R7 : sc across (12 sts)

End with a slst, and pass the yarn through the stitch
Make another ear. on your hook. Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch (30 cm) tail.

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -5-
« Lulu Papillon »

ASSEMBLING
Head & Body & Hat :
Place the head over the body, making sure the yarn
tails are facing the same direction at the back of the
toy. Using your crochet hook, join the head to the body
with sc stitches, using at the same time one stitch
from the head and one stitch from the body. Pass the
yarn through the stitch on your hook. Cut yarn, and
weave in the end in the back of the toy.
Place the hat on the head, and sew it with a few
stitches at the back of the head.

Arms :
Sew tightly both arms to the body, one round below
the neckline.

Ears :
Sew both ears to the hat, placing them 5 rounds away
from the center of the hat.

Legs :
Sew tightly both legs to the body.

Tail : BOW TIE


Sew tightly the tail to the body in the back, stuffing it Using CC2, ch3, turn.
before you’ve finished sewing. R1/R2/R3/R4 : ch1, sc3, turn.
R5 : ch1, dbdec1, turn
Weave in all remaining ends. R6 : ch1, dbinc1, turn
R7/R8/R9 : ch1, sc3, turn
R10 : ch1, sc3, turn (don’t cut the yarn)
For the last row (or edging), crochet around as follows :
ch1, sc2, sc3 in the same st (corner), sc9, sc3 in the
same st (corner), sc1, sc3 in the same st (corner),
sc9, sc 2 in the same st (1st st of the row), slst in the
next stitch. Cut yarn, leaving a 8 inch (20 cm) tail.
At each end of the bow tie, fold back by the equivalent
of one row and fix it with a few stitches.
Using CC2, ch30, pass the yarn through the stitch on
your hook and cut the yarn, leaving a 30 cm tail.

Wrap one end of your chain 2 or 3 times around the


center of the bow tie. Make a knot and strengthen.
Wrap the other end of your chain around the neck
and fix it under the bow tie. Pass the yarn through the
neck and strenghthen firmly on the back of the head.

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -6-
« Lulu Papillon »

SCHOOL BAG Top


Sides
Using CC2 or leftover yarn (here, a mix of cotton and

Side 1

Side 2
linen), ch3, turn. For the next 10 rows : ch1, sc 3,
turn. Pass the yarn through the stitch on your hook
and cut yarn.
Make another side.

Body
Using CC2 or leftover yarn (here, a mix of cotton and A E
linen), ch10, turn. For the next 34 rows : ch1, sc10,
turn. B D

Without cutting the yarn, place markers like this :


• Marker A (MA) : 10 rows below

Side 2
Side 1
• Marker B (MB) : 2 rows below A
• Markers D et E (MD & ME) : the same as A et B
but on the other side
• Marker C (MC) : 10 rows bellow D

Assembling and straps C


You will now join the sides to the body of the bag,
working continuously around the body by joining the
first side, then working in sc around the flap, and then
joining the 2nd side. To make sure you place correctly
the sides on the body, you’ll use the markers as
alignment points.
Place the first side along the side of your bag between
the current st and MA; You’ll now crochet in both
layers : sc1 in the same st as before, sc8, sc2 in the
same st (corner). Bottom
Rotate your work continuing around the side of the
bag, sc1, sc2 in the same st (corner).
Rotate your work again, sc9.
Don’t cut your yarn yet, you need to make the straps
You’ve successfully joined the 1st side.
first: make 3 slst along the top of the side to get behind
Continue around the edge of the flap as follows : sc11, the bag, ch25, sc1 by stitching down the middle of
sc2 in the same st (corner), sc8, sc2 in the same st bottom of the back of the bag (see picture), sc25,
(corner), sc11. slst1 to secure the second strap along the top of the
You’re now ready to join the 2nd side to the body of the back symetrically.
bag, crocheting in both layers again. Place the second
side along the side of the bag, between MC and MD, Cut yarn and weave in all remaining ends.
sc9, sc2 in the same st (corner). Rotate your work,
sc1, sc2 in the same st (corner). Rotate your work,
sc9. You’ve successfully joined the 2nd side. Enjoy yourself !

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -7-
« Lulu Papillon »

TO HELP YOU
Magic Ring :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCvJOdUfru8

Double decrease (3 sc together) :


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IyZJOeC7Kc

Invisible join (colour change) :


http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-
help/perfect-stripes-for-amigurumi-video/

© Alexia Giraud – For personal use only, please don’t sell or reproduce. -8-

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