Model

R
2
A
PROTA™CULTURE
Harvesting Waste Naturally

The BioPod ™

User’s Guide
BioPod™ User’s Guide

 2008 – All Rights Reserved.

Prota™Culture
PO Box 660675 #15135
Dallas, Texas 75266-0675
Phone 214-509-6000
Facsimile 214-279-0445
CS@THEBIOPOD.COM

United States Patent # 6579713 and 6780637

Table of Contents

CHAPTER 1 CHAPTER 6

Introduction page 2 Troubleshooting page 18

CHAPTER 2 CHAPTER 7

Parts page 6 Projects For Kids page 25

CHAPTER 3 CHAPTER 8

Assembly page 9 Glossary page 27

CHAPTER 4 CHAPTER 9

Set Up Tips page 12 Acknowledgements page 29

CHAPTER 5 CHAPTER 10

Operations page 15 Contact Info page 30

 1
Chapter

Introduction
The future of residential food waste recycling

T
hank you for purchasing the residential BioPod™ Prota™Culture System. This unit is the
culmination of 8 years of collaborative research with dozens of experts on four different
continents. Never before has there existed a sustainable technology that is so quick and
efficient at biologically converting kitchen waste into useful and valuable end products.
The primary decomposer in the BioPod™ is the juvenile form of the harmless and beneficial
black soldier fly (Hermetia illucens) – a species native to North
America. Black solider fly (“BSF”) adults do not bite, sting, create a
I C O N K E Y
nuisance, or transmit disease. In fact their very presence inhibits the
growth of filth flies, like the common house fly.
5 Important Information

# What to compost We hope your experience with the BioPod™ is both rewarding and
positive. All that we ask in return is that you share what you have
e Great Idea learned with others, so that they may benefit by setting up their own
 Eco Benefit sustainable food waste recycling systems.
! BSF Factoid

 Refer to Glossary
How to Use This Manual
Anytime you see BOLD TEXT in this manual, it means we are trying to
emphasize the point. Please re-read the sentence – it means the topic
is important and worth remembering.

Using the icon keys in the legend above, you may mark up and reference this guide as needed. At
the back of this manual in the GLOSSARY section is a list of definitions, in case some of the
terminology is unfamiliar. Please review at your convenience. Keep this guide in a safe place
so that you have it for future reference. In the event this document becomes worn or soiled,
the latest version may be downloaded via the internet from the customer service section of our
website. For the latest tips, advice and updates, please visit the FORUM section of our site.

Benefits of the BioPod™

Enlightened consumers have come to realize that recycling waste is part of being an
environmentally conscious citizen. Traditionally, it has been difficult to find a quick and

2
 convenient way to dispose of food scraps, other than throwing them in the garbage or down the
insinkerator. Studies suggest that the latter choice can adversely impact the waste treatment
facility with too many unnecessary bio-solids, and affect riparian ecosystems downstream by
introducing too many water-borne nutrients into the watershed. This may result in algae blooms
and potentially deadly eutrophication of the water bodies.
E C O B E N E F I T S

 recycle all food scraps

When examining comprehensive life cycle assessments, and taking
into account comparative research studies, researchers conclude
 saves landfill space
that home composting systems had the smallest ecological impact
 reduce strain on sewers across all environmental categories, including energy
 reduce greenhouse gases consumption.
 saves energy
Diversion of Food Waste by Recycling. Food leftovers are the
 creates liquid fertilizer
single largest component of the waste stream by weight in the US
 nutritious soil amendment (equates to 12% of the municipal solid waste). In fact, we throw
 food source for redworms away 25% of the food we prepare, which is approximately 96 billion
lbs of food scraps annually. As a nation we spend about 1 billion
dollars to dispose of this uneaten, wasted food. Only 3% of this is currently recovered – the vast
majority goes to landfills or is combusted at incineration plants. The anaerobic decomposition
(decay without oxygen present) of food waste in our dumps produces methane, a potent
greenhouse gas 21 times more powerful than carbon dioxide. Incidentally, landfills are the single
largest human source of methane in the US. Reusing food through donations or by recycling
using the BioPod ™ prevents its entry into dumps or incinerators, thus reducing greenhouse gas
emissions. Over the long term, diverting any kind of waste from the landfill and implementation
of source reduction strategies saves money by lowering disposal and tipping fees.

Occasionally, subsidies and rebates are available through your local municipality to offset the
purchase price of a composting system like the BioPod™. Please consult the Solid Waste e
division of your Public Works department or your trash hauler for details on local subsidy
programs.

Throwing your food waste into the garbage is a messy, smelly chore. Almost immediately, bagged
refuse starts to breakdown anaerobically, producing offensive odors and unsanitary conditions,
while potentially attracting unwanted animals. Keep your food scraps out of your garbage by
recycling all of it aerobically in the BioPod™!

Production of Nutritious Garden Amendments. Balanced, living soils are one of the key
ingredients to a vibrant, healthy backyard garden. Like other home composters and food
recycling units, the BioPod™ produces a biologically active compost residue referred to as
BioCastings™. However, what sets our system apart from other models is the speed at which
compost is attained. Instead of waiting 6-12 months to begin generating finished compost, you
can have garden-ready BioCastings™ in only a few weeks. Though relatively small in quantity, this
black-colored, friable material has the texture of coffee grounds. It is nutritious enough to be
added directly to your potted plants and raised garden beds, or the BioCastings™ may be
e further enhanced using redworms to fully process into valuable vermiculture castings.
For every 100 lbs of food scraps added to the pod, approx. 5 lbs of BioManure ™ is created (20:1
ratio). The concentrated liquid effluent or ‘tea’ that seeps passively into the clear jar below
contains many trace elements and beneficial bacteria, and may be used as a soluble plant fertilizer,

3
 provided it is diluted with non-chlorinated water or rain water. This liquid may also be used as a
powerful attractant of adult females to new Prota™Culture systems.

Introducing the BioGrubs™

BioGrubs™ - the highly versatile and nutritious BSF prepupae are the
coveted end product of the BioPod™. These beneficial larvae have a myriad
of uses, and contain approx. 42% protein and 34% lipids (fat), with an
impressive amino acid and mineral profile. BioGrubs™ are so user friendly,
! they can be gathered and dispensed by a child’s hand - they do not carry
harmful germs, stain clothes, or possess sharp barbs. During auto crawl off,
the prepupae naturally cleanse their entire GI tract, so they are not going to
poop while in your hand. They are dry to the touch when harvested out of
the collection bucket, and do not have an offensive odor.

1. Nutritious Songbird Feed. BioGrubs™ are an ideal food for attracting bluebirds,
orioles, cardinals, goldfinches, thrushes, catbirds, woodpeckers, nuthatchers, chickadees, mockingbirds
and warblers – to name a few. The logical and most common means of offering the
grubs is to use a special bluebird feeder, or similar unit that has been designed to
distribute mealworms to birds. Look for units that possess a sloped, overhanging lid
or roof which will prevent runoff of rain or dew into the feeding area. Drainage
holes and critter guards are also beneficial to a functional feeder.

2. Ornamental Fishpond / Aquarium Feed. High in usable protein and low in ash.
Your goldfish, koi, large cichlids and other pond creatures will relish the live, fresh
grubs that are simple to dispense in a tank or backyard pond.

3. Live Fishing Bait. Our home-grown BioGrubs™ are easy to store, simple to
transport and a pleasure to bait on a hook – their durable bodies don’t fall apart or get
! easily ripped up by hungry fish, unlike earthworms or bread balls. Why dig up your
sod and vegetable garden looking for worms when you can have a constant supply of
tasty, auto-harvesting BioGrubs™!

4. Raising Chickens. Did you know that a healthy hen fed a balanced diet can lay
fresh, wholesome eggs for up to 18 years? It is rewarding and a lot of fun to have a
small hobby farm in the backyard. A home-made movable coop that confines and
shelters your small flock is easy to build and takes up a lot less space than you may
realize. Chickens love to scratch the dirt endlessly looking for tasty grubs and other
insects. A few handfuls a day of BioGrubs™ scattered throughout the garden will
provide hours of enjoyment for your friends and family. There is a multitude of
excellent poultry rearing websites online that will give advice on coop construction
and care. Please research the topic thoroughly before you begin. Just keep in mind
that the structure should be well ventilated, secure from predators, have a built-in
shaded area and provide a minimum of 3 square feet of space per bird. A constant
supply of fresh water fortified with vitamins and probiotics, along with a balanced
diet that includes BioGrubs™, will help to product a happy, healthy, egg-laying flock.
Please consult your local ordinances as they pertain to residential restrictions on bird
rearing and poultry.

4
 5. Freshwater Aquaculture or Aquaponics. Raising domesticated freshwater bass,
catfish, bullfrogs or tilapia in a small pond or converted pool is a cost-effective and
e sustainable means of supplying you family with a healthy, year-round protein source.
Live or dried grubs may be fed directly to your stock, reducing demand for
commercial grade feed. If you have limited space, all-inclusive integrated systems can
be purchased online, giving your family access to fresh herbs and salad greens as well
as chemical-free fish. Please visit www.aquaponics.com for more information on
starter kits. Before you begin, please research local restrictions on non-native fish
breeding.

5
 2
Chapter

List of Parts
Please check the contents of your box before assembly

Check Parts First

a
Before you proceed to the next chapter, please check to see Extra Parts
Should you need or want extra
that you have all the parts necessary for proper assembly. parts for your BioPod™ please
Please use the illustrated list below as your guide. There visit our website for instructions
on how to order.
should only be one of each part in your box.

UNIT BODY (1)

6
 LID (2) Top View Bottom View PROTECTIVE CAP (3)

O-RINGS (6) METAL KNOB (4C) CHUTE TUBE (7) SCREW (4B)

WASHER (4A) FILTER + MEDIA (11) DRAIN FITTINGS (10) JAR + LID (12)

COLLECTION BUCKET (8) BUCKET LID (9) EGG DISK (5) BASE STAND (13)

7
 Included Parts List

1. UNIT BODY
2. LID
3. PROTECTIVE VENT CAP
4. CAP HARDWARE
A. 35 mm WASHERS (2 pc.)
B. 65 mm SCREW
C. METAL KNOB
5. CORRUGATED PLASTIC EGG LAYING DISK
6. ELASTIC O-RING FASTENERS (2 pc.)
7. CLEAR CONNECTOR TUBE (also called Chute Tube)
8. COLLECTION BUCKET (also referred to as ‘collector’ or ‘harvest’ bucket)
9. COLLECTION BUCKET LID
10. DRAINAGE FITTING + WING NUT + RUBBER GASKET
11. STAINLESS STEEL FITLER + FILTER MEDIA
12. LIQUID COLLECTION JAR + LID
13. POWDER COATED METAL BASE STAND

8
 3
Chapter

Assembly
Please use the step by step instructions as your guide

• STEP 1 - LOCATION
Pick an outdoor spot that has a level surface and is located in full shade. Do not situate the unit
on a slope or angled surface – this may result in tipping. To avoid possible damage, do not site
unit too close to play areas. If full shade is not available, place
To avoid the potential for in part-shade with a shade tarp so that the radiant heat from
tipping, make certain the final the sun doesn’t produce excessive temperatures inside. Make
location is stable and as close every effort to avoid placement near electrical devices (air
to the horizontal as possible. conditioners, pool filters) that may heat up the unit – try to
keep internal temperatures below 100 degrees F so that the
pod continues to perform optimally and within acceptable parameters. A color changing,
temperature sensitive flat thermometer with a sticky back placed inside is highly effective at
monitoring the internal conditions. For those individuals who chose not to use the stand and
liquid jar, the unit must be placed on a permeable surface that will allow natural drainage to occur
continually (soil, sand, mulch, decomposed granite, gravel,
wood chips, pine needles, live or dead grass, etc.). Non-porous
surfaces like concrete or asphalt are not recommended and will
result in the pooling of the liquid tea. If the drainage system is
used, the pod may be placed on any level surface.

• STEP 2 - LID
If not already assembled, secure the knob, protective cap, lid,
egg disc and washers using the orientation as illustrated in the
schematic to the right. The underside of the protective cap will
serve as the entry point for egg laying females, as well as a cover
for the 4 lid ventilation ports necessary for aeration and heat
dissipation. The underside of the lid will be the location of the
corrugated plastic disc – this will provide shelter for the newly
laid eggs and protect them from predation by small animals
such as lizards. The completed lid assembly will cover the entire
body of the pod, protecting the unit from rain and debris.

9
 • STEP 3 - DRAINAGE
Before attaching the lid and chute tube to the body, assembly of the drainage system will be
necessary. First, take the inner part of the drain fitting and slide the black rubber gasket on until it
reaches the top. Find the filter hole at the bottom center and tip the unit on its side. Push the
fitting through the hole at the bottom of the pod until the threaded end protrudes enough outside
the bottom so that you can grab it with your other hand. Slide the metal base stand over this
protrusion, followed by the plastic lid of the clear jar. Attach the nut of the drain fitting and
tighten. At this point in time, do not yet attach the filter or jar.

• STEP 4 - LEGS
While the unit is still upside down, attach each of the three legs in their appropriate positions at an
angle perpendicular to the plane of the metal base. Do not over tighten, as this may lead to
stripping or damage to the base. Place the rubber end caps at the tips of each leg so that surfaces
are protected. Orient the body with the metal base stand so that the top chute portal is directly
above and aligned with the shortest side (which is the flat trapezoidal side). This is the side that
will protrude slightly further than the others because it will serve as the support for the collection
bucket.

• STEP 4 - FILTER
Roll up the mesh-like media and push inside the filter. While still focused on the underside of the
unit, screw the filter into the threaded fitting that is holding the base stand and lid of jar in place.
Do not over tighten; a snug fit is sufficient (it does not need to be water tight). Next, attach the
clear liquid catchment jar to its lid which is being held in place by the nut fitting. The filter will
now be visible through the clear jar. Turn the unit right side up.

• STEP 6 – BUCKET
Bucket Bedding
Fill the bottom of the side collection bucket with some dried coir fiber This should be a dry, non-
(recycled coconut husks), sphagnum peat moss, saw dust, or toxic, and non-caustic
material. Excellent choices
unprocessed rice hulls. This will provide suitable bedding for the include rice hulls, peat, saw
grubs as they begin to settle down in their new home and break their dust and coir fibers. If none
of these are available, you
fall as they drop into the bucket. Before placing the collector lid on may substitute dry shredded
the collection bucket, attach the collector lid to the bottom of the office paper.
chute tube. The bottom of the collection bucket should be approximately at the same elevation
as the bottom of the unit’s body. The indentation on the underside of the bucket is designed to
receive the protruding bolt head on the top surface of the metal base stand. The downward
pressure of the tube and the upward force of the metal base stand will keep the collection bucket
securely in place as it begins to fill with grubs; additionally, the bolt head will help keep the bucket
from experiencing significant lateral movement.

• STEP 6 - CHUTE
Locate the exit shaft on the body. It can be found by following the diagonal migration ramps to
the point where they meet. While still attached to the collection bucket lid, flex the tube and
connect the top to the body at the exit shaft. You may need to twist firmly in order for the tube

10
to fit onto the shaft. Use a non-toxic lubricant if needed. The weight of the bucket lid should
now be supported by the strength of the tube. While flexing the tube, slide the collection bucket
into place.

• STEP 7 - FASTENERS
Place the lid on the body and spin clockwise until the fastener prongs are in
alignment. To prevent the lid from being carried off by the wind or opened by
hungry critters or curious children, use the supplied O-RINGS to fasten the two
parts together. See the figure to the right for a close up of the prongs and o-ring.
For a tighter and more secure fit, use miniature bungee cords.

FULLY ASSEMBLED BIOPOD SYSTEM (without chute tube attached)

11
 4
Chapter

Set Up Instructions
Some recommendations as you set up your unit

Shady Location Required. Like worm bins, Prota™Culture systems BEFORE U BEGIN:
like the BioPod™ operate best in full shade conditions. Though BSF 1. FIND SHADE
can handle higher heat intensities than redworms, they can suffer
when ambient temperatures exceed 100º F for more than a few hours.
We highly recommend providing as much shade as possible using a
2. FLAT SURFACE
3. NO BEDDING 5
shade cloth or tarp when a full shade location is not available.

Place on a Level Surface. Place the BioPod™ in an area that is flat and horizontal. If your entire
property is on a slope, provide ample leveling support using sturdy materials such as bricks or
stone (do not use wood or cardboard – both will decay over time). A full BioPod™ can be of
considerable weight - make sure the foundation is stable and will not shift over time.

Starter Bedding for Pod. Unlike worm bins, this is absolutely not necessary for start up or
continued operations. Aeration is achieved through the air vents and lid ports. It will take more
than 1-2 weeks for the system to become self-sustaining – do not be tempted to add bedding..
Starter bedding, if added will retain liquids and obstruct draining, resulting in bad odors – do not
use!

System Start Up. This is the most gratifying step in the BioPod™ set
Capacity of BioPod ™
up process. For the initial ‘seeding’ of your new unit, use ordinary
kitchen food wastes minus any meat or fish scraps because of the In order to prevent system
potential to attract unwanted guests. Once the unit is up and running, overload in your residential
this issue is no longer relevant, due to the speed of digestion by the unit, keep the quantity of
grubs. Spread the scraps out onto the bottom of the pod, and if you food scraps at or under 15
5
lbs (7 kg) per day.
purchased BioGrubs™ separately, go ahead and add them to the mix at
this time. If it is seasonably cool, gently place a rounded piece of cardboard on top of the pile,
making sure there is enough space around the edges for air to reach the pile. DO NOT start
your unit off with too many food scraps; you must start slow, until your population of BSF
begins to rise naturally. Introducing too many scraps in a new setup before you have enough
BioGrubs™ to consume them may result in the system going anaerobic (leading to foul odors).
Once your colony is established (within 1-3 weeks), feel free to increase the amount of food
scraps added to the pile. You will know your system is sustainable when all or most of the scraps

12
 are digested daily into a soupy brown mass where most of the original contents are no longer
identifiable.

If possible, collect additional scraps from the office or neighbors. Meat and dairy products are
acceptable. Small soft bones from birds and fish will decompose and digest over time, but it is
not recommended to add mammalian bones, clams or thick chitin shells.

Collection of Food Scraps. If you store your food scraps in the house
or garage before emptying them into the BioPod™ you will need to keep
them aerobic in some way or they will start to stink. A compost pail
with a carbon filter is an adequate means of low-odor storage. It keeps
out critters and insects, but allows air to get through. If you have more
than 1 unit and decide to collect greater quantities of food scraps from your local community, just
keep in mind not to let the food sit for any length of time in an enclosed, air-tight container, or
foul odors may result. Always keep the temporary transport vessel breathable, and you should
be fine. To minimize fruit or house flies, cover the food with a moist paper towel – these flies
tend to lay eggs on exposed food scraps, so covering the scraps will help FINDING BSF:
mitigate unwanted maggots.
1. NATURALLY

Acquisition of BSF. If you have a native colonies of BSF in your area, 2. FRIEND’S POD
chances are they will populate your unit without active intervention by 3. COMPOST PILE
anyone. This even happens on patios of multi-story complexes in highly 4. WORM BIN
! urbanized areas. Adult females are attracted to imperceptibly low levels of 5. PURCHASE
food odors emitted from your BioPod™ and will instinctively oviposit (lay) eggs under the
protective cap adjacent to the top ventilation holes. The subtle scent of food scraps also serves as
a guide to newly hatched larvae. Once a female finds your pod and lays eggs, it usually takes about
1-3 weeks before you notice the juveniles actively digesting the contents.

If you want to accelerate the formation of your colony, or you reside in an area where few to no
BSF are present, you may inoculate your unit with an egg case or juveniles from another existing
system or worm bin. If you don’t have a friend that currently owns a working pod, you may
obtain live juveniles or dormant puparium (ready to hatch into adults) by mail from our website.
Adult BSF are relatively slow flyers and are easy to capture from an existing compost pile or
worm bin (that has food scraps), due to their docility while at rest. Simply net a few adults and
place the in the pod, and the females will do the rest. Whatever the method used to artificially
introduce BioGrubs™ into your system, the results will be the same – quick maturation, and if
weather permits, pupation into a breeding population of adults – ready to continue the lifecycle by
! laying new or additional eggs in your pod. Keep in mind the liquid tea mentioned previously is a
strong attractant – a small quantity from another pod added to your pile will draw in any gravid
females from the surrounding vicinity, and stimulate them to lay eggs.

Another simple way of establishing a colony fast is to take some of the egg laying disks from an
active unit, and swap them out with your new disks. Such an exchange will not harm the existing
colony or eggs. Fresh clusters of BSF eggs are bright white in color, whereas empty casings are
brown. Once a year, clean out and refresh your corrugated poly egg disks with a quick rinsing of
mild soap and water. Additionally, ‘painting’ the underside of the protective cap and lid with the
liquid effluent from another pod will entice gravid females to oviposit their eggs.

13
 Permeable Ground for Natural Drainage. Though it is NOT recommended, for those who
forgo using the included drainage system the pod will need to be placed on a porous surface
where liquids will not pool or stagnate. Unless you are capturing and diverting all of the BioPod™
leachate or ‘liquid tea’ into the enclosed receptacle, drainage must be insured. The effluent tea
e that is a beneficial byproduct of the decomposition process must be allowed to drain passively
into the ground below. As stated previously, suitable surfaces include mulch, pine straw or bark,
open soil or sand, grass or gravel. The tea is harmless to the environment, and will actually
provide nutrients to the surrounding plant life. To improve drainage, heavy clay soils can be
amended with PermaTill, compost or soil conditioner with added gypsum.

Contain the Liquid Tea. The liquid tea is a powerful female The BioPod is not a
™

attractant and egg-laying stimulant; if collected, it must be covered so toy. To prevent damage
as not to divert the females away from the egg laying section of the to the unit or possible
injury, keep away from
pod. This will insure that the gravid female adults continue to lay
unsupervised children.
their eggs under the protective cap on top of the lid. If you choose
! not to collect the tea in the clear jar, place the pod on the ground and let the liquids passively drain
into the soil below. Creation of a shallow pit underneath the drainage hole with the addition of a
small dirt mound surrounding the base of the pod should prevent the females from detecting the
liquid.

Protection from Pets & Wildlife. Many animals are attracted to the scent of food; the BioPod™
is no exception. Do not place in a dog run, or where wildlife such as KEEP LID ON TIGHT
raccoons, vermin and bear can access the Because the grubs are
system. Electronic chasers and chemical negatively phototaxic (they
deterrents are only marginally effective, and naturally shy away from
if critters are hungry enough, they will try bright light), it is best to keep
anything to get into the unit. Bungee cord the lid on at all times when
access is not required.
spiders are somewhat useful for preventing
opossums, raccoons and skunks from entering the main chamber;
Helps keep out critters
however, they can still access the collection bucket and eat your harvest of
BioGrubs™. Vermin can only get in if the gnaw their way through. The
best remedy for rodent control is to capture utilizing a humane trap, and then relocating to a
remote area. As long as the flying adults have access, the unit may be placed in a structure, like a
pen or shed, so that wildlife cannot enter.

Secure from Wind. If you live in an area where storms are frequent, or where the wind regularly
exceeds 50 mph in velocity, it is prudent to use a few holed bricks to help steady the legs of the
pod. Another solution is to obtain a few ground pegs and attach the frame of the base stand using
short bungee cords, so that the wind cannot topple your system. Once your BioPod™ has time to
establish a significant amount of content, you may remove the bricks and cords. A wire tether
may also be utilized to secure the pod to a fixed structure during storm conditions.

Household Chemicals. Make every possible effort to keep household cleaners, dyes, solvents, or
person hygiene products out of the BioPod™. These are living ecosystems that may be adversely
impacted by many of the chemicals found in and around the home. Do not use man made or
natural insecticides near the unit – these could repel or possibly harm the adult BSF population in
the general vicinity. Treat the pod as you would a worm bin or aquarium – you are their
guardians and they depend on you for survival!

14
15
 5
Chapter

Operations
Advice on how to maintain your established system

™
Raising BioGrubs . Once mated, BSF adult females lay between 500-900 eggs in their short
! life span of 5-8 days. Eggs are oviposited under the protective lid cap where they will remain
until the larvae hatch. To insure survival, the females do not lay the eggs on the food scrap
contents within the unit – only on the lid, cap, body or egg disc. It takes only a few days (approx.
100 hours) for the cream colored eggs to hatch into BSF babies, which then drop into the pile
below. In ideal conditions, it take approx. 15 days for the juveniles to grow large enough to begin
their migration up to ramps and out the chute into the collection bucket. In cooler weather, or if
sufficient food is absent for continual growth, maturity may be delayed several months. As long
as the grubs are actively digesting food, continue to feed the colony. A simple rule of thumb on
feeding: monitor digestion rates daily and feed accordingly – only add more scraps the next day if
yesterday’s waste is virtually gone.

Once the climate turns cold and the unit goes inactive and dormant, withhold food scraps and
divert all kitchen waste to the compost bin. Dormancy may be delayed by using an old wool
blanket as an insulation cover.
™
Self-Harvesting BioGrubs . The BioPod’s™ patented design with migration ramps makes
collection a breeze by taking advantage of the natural tendency of the mature BioGrubs™ to self-
5 separate from the feeding area. Unlike vermiculture, this auto-harvesting mechanism is so
simple, all one has to do is open the bucket and dump the clean, durable prepupae into a
container for use elsewhere. Under dry conditions, grubs cannot negotiate an incline greater than
45 degrees, but if the walls of the unit become moist, the larvae can bypass the ramps and crawl
straight out of the pod. Consequently the body of the pod has been carefully designed with
multiple folds to prevent this from happening. However with the collection bucket, it is
recommend that fresh, dry bedding be placed in the bottom to keep the BioGrubs™ dormant and
sedentary. Ideal bedding includes: RICE HULLS, PEAT, COIR, or SAWDUST (made from
untreated wood).
™
Accumulation of BioCastings . Over time, you will have a slow build up
BSF POOP:
of BSF castings at the bottom of the BioPod™. The food to casting volume = BioManure
ratio is approximately 20 to 1. In other words, for every 100 lbs of food scraps = BioCastings
that you add to the unit, you receive 5 lbs of friable BSF castings. These = BioCompost
castings are light in weight, and possess a healthy, soil-like aroma. They may be

e
16
added to the garden as is, or added to a vermiculture system (worm bin) for additional processing
into valuable worm castings (vermicompost). Because of its crumbled, digested nature and high
cellulose content, BSF castings are ideal for producing top-quality worm castings quickly, without
having to wait months. Please remember that the typical residential BioPod™ produces only
a small quantity of castings relative to the quantity of food scraps added – most of the
harvest is in the form of biomass (grubs) and effluent (tea). Instead of waiting until the end of the
year to harvest your castings, it is recommended that from time to time a portion of the residue at
the bottom be transferred to a worm bin for conversion into vermin-poop. Use a small garden
shovel or spade, being careful not to scoop out too many of the grubs.

When grubs are actively engaged in the consumption of waste, the almost frenzied movement can
actually be heard, even some distance from the pod. This distinctive noise is indicative of the
enormous power of the species. This combined action of eating and churning creates a natural
stirring mechanism that keeps the contents well aerated and draining properly.
™
Storage of BioGrubs . To prevent them from transforming through metamorphosis into
winged adults, store in a cool, dark, dry location with bedding from the collection bucket (an ideal
temperature range is 50-62 degrees F). Do NOT let them desiccate or expose to extreme
temperatures, excessive moisture or possible predation. DO NOT compress them under heavy
materials. DO NOT place them in air tight containers starving them of oxygen. They are still
alive, just dormant. Bringing the BioGrubs™ up to 75-85 degrees F will reactivate their
maturation process and allow them to transform into winged adults.

It is advisable to set aside approximately 5% of the prepupae harvest under protected conditions
so that they may be allowed to emerge as adults. This will insure a locally viable population of
wild adults that will continue to populate pods in your vicinity.

Seasonal Performance. In the colder regions of the US, the BioPod™ can only be actively
processing food year round if the unit is provided with some type of insulation or climate control,
and the juveniles are continually fed on a daily basis (the breakdown of waste will produce
internal heat inside the pod that is necessary to maintain proper conditions). Like with redworms
and vermiculture systems, the BioPod™ will only operate if temperatures inside the unit remain
well above freezing. Given these functional limitations, if you proper temperatures cannot be
maintained, we recommended emptying the entire contents of your pod into your compost bin or
vermiculture system for final decomposition. These piles will serve as an over winter spot where
pupae can remain dormant until the spring. If adequate insulation for your pod is provided in the
form of a jacket and /or internal Styrofoam cover, and the unit is protected from cold winter
winds, functional activity may be extended a few additional weeks. Under normal conditions,
little to no crawl-off will occur during the colder months, but will resume as the outside
temperature warms.

During the hot months and in arid parts of the US, desiccation and excessive heat may become an
issue. To keep the pile adequately moist, add a tiny amount of water to your food scraps and let
them soak it up. A piece of moist cardboard placed on top of the pile goes a long way at keeping
the moisture and humidity levels within functional parameters. BSF juveniles can withstand
relatively higher temperatures, moisture levels, and pH fluctuations than traditional redworms
systems. Make every possible effort to keep the internal temperatures below 100 degrees F to
avoid premature crawl-out. The lid may temporarily be removed to allow heat to dissipate.

17
 Accessing the Pod. BSF juveniles do not fancy bright light. Similar to composting redworms,
! optimum performance is achieved in full shade. Like redworms, they will naturally flee into the
depths of the pile when exposed to light, as a means of avoiding possible predation. It is
recommended the access to the pod be limited to late afternoon or early morning, so as not to
overly stress or disrupt the colony. A ½” – 1” moist layer or ‘topper’ of shredded office paper
will not only help to keep other species of flies out, but will keep the pile dark and moist - even
when removing the lid. Use any paper sparingly in your pod – it is not readily digestible.

Collecting Compost Tea. The concentrated liquid effluent may be continually harvested by
means of the clear jar. Simply unscrew, empty and re-attach. As long as the lid is on during
rainfall events, the clear jar should only be receiving liquids from digestion of the food scraps and
NOT precipitation or gutter water. Exposure to rain may inadvertently overflow the pod, clog
the filter, and result in collapse of the entire colony.

As you harvest the tea, continually check the liquid level in the basin channels at least once a week,
and clean out the filter as needed. Do not allow the tea to sit open; the liquid is a powerful
attractant for gravid females and may confuse and misdirect their egg laying. Like compost tea,
pod effluent is a living liquid, and is best used immediately. Dilute with non-chlorinated water at
room temperature (so as not to harm the beneficial nutrients and microbes) and apply to plants as
a mild fertilizer. A good rule of thumb is to dilute the tea at a 20:1 ratio. As will all plant fertilizers,
use seasonally during the growing period, or year-round with houseplants.

As a precaution, it is advisable to wear latex gloves when handling the tea or cleaning the filter.
Undesirable pathogens may find their way into the pod by contaminated food scraps, and as a
result may be present in the effluent. Additionally, do not use the liquid on plants intended for
human consumption.

Rainfall. Rain or hail will not affect the performance of the BioPod™; however, BSF adults are
non active during precipitation events, so you may not see any adults flying around until after the
stormy conditions dissipate. Never let water pool around the unit if you have you system directly
on the ground – always ensure that ample drainage exists for the liquid tea, as well as natural
rainfall. If liquid appears in the collection bucket due to condensation, simply empty it into the
ground or allow it to be absorbed by the replaceable bedding.

Ventilation. The lid is fabricated in such a way that allows a continual flow of air to enter the
pod along the periphery of the top. The air exits through the four vent holes that are covered by
the protective lid cap. If the assembled lid is turned upside down, the air inlets may be seen. The
drilling of additional holes in the unit body is not necessary or recommended. If the larvae
become heat stressed due to higher than normal temperatures, temporarily elevate to lid with
bricks or wood until the heat dissipates. Exposing the colony to the elements by removing the lid
entirely is not recommended.

18
 6
Chapter

Troubleshooting
Simple solutions to the most common issues and questions

This section is by no mean exhaustive. Please check online for additional information or simply
drop our customer service department a quick email. Please allow a reasonable amount of time
for our team of experts to analyze your situation.

Are these creatures dangerous in any way?

BSF adults have no mouth parts – therefore they do not feed or bite in any way. They fly slower
than other insects, and resemble dark-colored wasps but do not have stingers. Basically, they are
nothing more than a breeder with a very short lifespan. As the mature BioGrubs™ self-harvest
out of the active chamber, they auto-cleanse by emptying their digestive track before entry into
the collection bucket.

Do these colonies spread germs that can harm my family?

The flying adults have a very short lifespan; they do not even possess functioning mouth parts
necessary to feed. Consequently, they do not harbor germs that may cause and spread disease in
humans. They are not like flies or yellow jackets – they will not cause a nuisance at your next
picnic. Because they are so efficient at composting wastes, having an active colonies of juveniles
actually inhibits the growth of insects that do carry germs, like the common housefly. However, as
with all garden tools that are outside in the yard, dirt and bacteria collects naturally, so wash your
hands with soap and water after handling your pod or any BioGrubs™.

Is my system going to stink up a storm?

Established colonies that are actively processing food wastes will not
produce noxious odors, so long as they remain aerobic, and the Units that are given
too many scraps could
liquid tea is allowed to drain away. Units that are given too many
overwhelm the colony
scraps could overwhelm the colony – do not overfeed. This is
– DO NOT overfeed.
doubly true with newly setup systems. Do not add an abundance of
liquid wastes like soups or sauces; this may result in pockets of
e oxygen deficiency, which can lead to stinky smells. Drain off all
liquids in your kitchen waste before adding them to the system. If your pod gets too ‘soupy’ add
in some dry shredded paper or cardboard to sop up the excess moisture. This will be digested

19
along with the kitchen waste. Dried soap-free sponges will also successfully absorb any pooling
tea, and not add permanent bulk to your system. Just remember to wear gloves when removing
the saturated sponges. As a preventative measure, check the filter and drain for clogging once or
twice per month. Please understand that a functioning pod will emit a unique, trademark odor
indicative of BSF (harmless to humans and pets) – this scent smells a little like ripe fruit compost
and is created naturally by the juveniles. This odor also helps to deter unwanted arthropods like
house and fruit flies from taking up residence in your pod.

I can’t find any BSF in my new setup, only flies – what am I doing wrong?

Most new start-ups that allow BSF to find the pod naturally will invariably attract house flies faster
than BSF – they are much more common, and normally more closely associated with humanity.
Except on certain farms, BSF adults tend to be less common in nature, so it might take more time
for them to detect the scent of food scraps and lay eggs in your system. Additionally, the hatching
time and life cycle for BSF is a little longer than house and fruit flies, so it can take several weeks
to establish and populate your unit. If you see babies after only a few days, chances are they are
house or fruit flies, and not BSF. They may be left there, as the BSF babies will soon dominate
the pod, displacing the undesirable fly species that may have taken up residence in your pod.. If
tiny larvae begin appearing in the collection bucket only a few days after setup, chances are they
are house fly larvae. To prevent a house fly infestation in your area, take these tiny larvae before
they have a chance to pupate and bury them somewhere in the garden. Better yet, feed them to
your fish!

Most localities in the US will have native BSF adults present; however coverage is only assumed,
not guaranteed. Should you not wish to wait for your colony to develop naturally (2-3 weeks), we
have growers that will ship you BSF year round.

Common house flies tend to lay their eggs directly on food wastes, unlike BSF which lay them some
distance away (such as on the underside of the protective cap). A great way to mitigate the
presence of regular house and fruit flies and their babies is to take a piece of dampened
cardboard and cover the pile of food waste – this will prevent many of the unwanted flies from
accessing the scrap and reproducing via eggs laying– just make certain the cardboard layer is not
air tight, or you can cause the system to go anaerobic. You may also use a ½” to 1” topper of
shredded moistened, long-cut office paper – this will accomplish the same goal as the cardboard,
but without the need for a peripheral gap. Since paper and cardboard is not normally eaten by
BSF grubs, use in moderation. As a rule of thumb, the pod has been properly seeded with BSF
when house and fruit flies are no longer present.

Will my BioPod™ attract unwanted guests?

The scent of food has the potential for attracting a multitude of hungry creatures; always keep the
lid on (especially at night) and do not place in areas where the unit is susceptible to access or
damage by pets, wildlife or curious children. Raccoons are notorious for raiding compost bins –
consider fastening the lid with some bungee cords, as these seem to confuse them.

Why does it appear that some foods are being ignored?

20
Some foods will not be completely broken down by the active juveniles but will be decomposed
in the lower compost levels by beneficial bacteria and fungi. Animal bones, like those from pigs
or cows, are too hard to be digested by either the BSF juveniles or the biologically rich compost; it
is best to refrain from placing these inside the units, unless you don’t mind having them mixed in
with your casting residue. Avoid adding the following foods: thick chitin exoskeletons (ex.
lobster), bivalve shells (ex. clams), mammalian bones (ex. T-bones), and coconut husks.

Can I use my system indoors?

These units are not currently designed for indoor use. BSF adults do not have access to the inside
of buildings, and it will be difficult to maintain a prolonged colony without fresh eggs or babies.
Near the end of the fall when the weather start to get cold, you can move un-insulated units into a
sheltered area like a garage, greenhouse or shed for extended harvesting.

Why can’t I use my BioPod™ year round?

You can do this in the southern states and along the western coast, as long as the temperature
inside the unit remains well above freezing. To do this, provide an insulation cover directly on
top of the inside contents of the active pile, making certain to leave a loose gap around the
perimeter, so that the system receives enough oxygen, and does not retain (or lose) too much
heat. Additionally, a wool blanket could be used to cover the entire unit on exceptionally cold
nights. The warmth to maintain a hospitable climate inside is generated internally by the active
juveniles – do not stop feeding them or the temperature could plummet and the whole colony
may collapse and go dormant. The major issue with winter operation: providing the system with
a consistent supply of ample food. Keep in mind that little to no crawl-off will occur during the
colder periods.

I don’t have any shade, what can I do?

Full shade is required for the system to operate correctly. Units placed in direct sunlight will heat
up too much, resulting in early crawl-off of premature adults (lighter in color) and may even cause
the entire colony to collapse. Even in full-shade conditions, temperatures over 100° degrees will
cause premature crawl-off. The best solution is to purchase an inexpensive shade canopy or trellis
which protects the entire colony from the heat of the sun. During extended heat waves, do
whatever is possible to keep the temperature below triple digits (ice in sealed bags, etc.).

I am going on vacation, will my pod be ok?

As long as your pod is free from predation, curious children, and extreme weather, you system
should operate smoothly while you are away. In nature, there is rarely a steady stream of food for
any species, so the intermittency of scraps will not be an issue. As long as you have been feeding
your colony on a regular basis, the grubs can survive for several weeks without being fed
(provided it is not too cold). To allay your concerns, feel free to add in some additional scraps the
day before your departure, or if you have a friend checking in on your place, have them throw in
some scraps for good measure. If it is exceedingly cold outside, we do not recommend
withholding food for more than a day or two – the continual digestion is what keeps the inside
hospitable – if you stop feeding them the temperature in the pod could plummet.

Ants are hauling off my BSF eggs and babies, how do I control them?

21
Ants are notorious invaders of compost and worm bins. In a BioPod™, ants don’t seem to bother
the older pupae in an active pile - only the food scraps, eggs, collection bucket grubs and newly
hatched BSF babies. Nonetheless, there are several means of control that will not involve poison
sprays or toxic pellets. The first is a barrier paste called Tac-Gel that the ants simply will not
cross. We have found it to be an effective means at preventing ants from entering the units.
Make certain that the application completely circles the legs of the base stand. It is recommended
that the user wear latex gloves while handling Tac-Gel. Please realize that if you have any
shrubbery touching the unit, ants will use that as a bridge and invade the pod. So keep debris free
and clear of the pod at all times. A second, more natural means of control would be a circle of
diatomaceous earth (DE) on the ground surrounding the legs of the system. This powder is the
skeletal remains of microscopic phytoplankton, and is composed primarily of silica. The DE
causes openings at the seams of the ant’s chitin exoskeletons resulting in desiccation. Repeat
applications are necessary to maintain effectiveness. The third means of control would be some
form of water barrier that could take the form of a shallow receptacle of water in whish each leg
of the stand is placed. Keep in mind that mosquitoes may become an issue in any stagnant or
pooling water bodies.

I am getting immature larvae in my collection bucket. What do I do?

When the BioPod™ system heats up to much, larvae that are not yet ready to pupate will vacate
the unit, in an effort to find a cooler location. On very hot days, you might see an accumulation
of cream colored grubs in your bucket, instead of the normal charcoal grey-black ones. As soon
as the temperature drops, simply dump the entire contents of the bucket back into the pod. If it
is not too much trouble, feel free to separate out the black pupae, but it is perfect fine to add them
all back into the pile – they will simply crawl out again.

Grubs are crawling all over the interior of the collection bucket, what do I do?

If they are crawling up the sides, chances are there is too much moisture inside the collection
bucket. Add a handful of dried peat or coir and that will absorb the excess condensation so that
the pupae will be too dry to climb the sides. This bedding will also settle them down
considerably, and provide perceived refuge.

Can the BioPod be used for pet waste disposal?

BioGrubs love feces and will devour them as fast as food scraps. However, the residential
BioPod was designed to digest kitchen leftovers, not pet waste, nor a combination of the two.
The main reason we do not recommend adding pet waste into a functioning system is the
pathogen issue. The germs that are associated with feces are a mixture of good and bad bacteria
& viruses – we do not want our users to introduce those into a biological system that produces a
finished product that may be used in a vegetable garden (the compost or tea) or fed to
domesticated animals (the grubs) that might then be used for food or eggs. Though cross-
contamination and transmission between species is unlikely, it is best to recycle all pet poop is a
system designed exclusively for that purpose.

I don’t have a yard, can I still used the BioPod™?

22
Yes. As long as you have a shaded area of your property, you can still use a BioPod™ without the
need for an actual yard. The residential pod has already been tested in multi-story buildings in US
cities, and will work with a little extra monitoring and care. It will still be necessary to situate the
unit in an area that is completely or partially outdoors, such as a patio, porch, balcony or lanai.
Indoor locations are not feasible, unless the flying adults have full access through a window or
door, since the wild population of females still need to find the unit and lay eggs. Like with yard-
based systems, you must insure that the unit is placed in full shade so that the inside is not allowed
to heat up above tolerable limits (around 100 degrees F). Radiant heat from concrete and building
materials may indirectly increase the temperature of your balcony – be vigilant about extreme
fluctuations in temperature. Keep in mind that the liquid effluent (the compost tea) is continually
produced as a byproduct of digested food scraps and must be collected by the integrated drainage
system. This tea is a powerful attractant for the females, and we don’t want it pooling anywhere
inappropriate because that might confuse the gravid females on where to lay eggs.

I don’t see any grub in my unit, how do I attract females to my pod?

Along with fresh food scraps, the liquid effluent or tea from an existing pod may be used attract
gravid females to your system. Simply ‘paint’ the liquid on the underside of the protective cap and
lid, and nature will do the rest.

I don’t have use for so many BioGrubs™ – what the heck do I do with all of them?

Many people set up the pod for the specific purpose of end product usage. Some feed the grubs
to their chickens, bullfrogs, koi ponds, or pet iguanas. Individuals can save an average of $40
bucks a month by not having to buy live food at the pet store. Anglers use them as free bait
instead of purchasing expensive earthworms. A growing number of users are becoming familiar
with the benefits BSF grubs bring to the migratory song bird habitats that are springing up in
people’s backyards. Along with supplying birdbaths and breeding shelters, it is recommended that
carnivorous and omnivorous birds are fed a balanced diet including calcium-rich BioGrubs™.
Any feeder unit intended for mealworms will suffice as a suitable dispenser of grubs. Your birds
will thank you in song! As a last resort, you can always give them away as gifts (we are not
kidding) or simply allow the grubs to hatch into adults, thus repopulating the native stock in your
area. If you are interested is helping to re-establish the local population of BSF, take the bedding
and grubs out of the collection bucket and place in a shallow bin. Protect the bin from rain, sun,
and predation. In a few weeks, you will have newly emerged adults ready and willing to process
wastes in your area.

I am a really busy person. How much time do I need to put aside for one of these?

Well, the initial setup up is really the most time-intensive part of the whole process. To get this
unit up in running, you will need to put aside at around 1.5 to 2 daylight hours, preferably when
distractions can be minimized so that you can focus. Surprisingly, once the pod is setup, there is
not much additional work, other that feeding, harvesting, liquid collection and cleaning of the
filter. Since the tea and filter media are replete with beneficial bacteria, always wear latex gloves
when handling. Since the grubs will auto-separate using the patented migration ramps, there is no
additional time or effort spent on collecting the grubs from the active pile. If you live is an area
that doesn’t allow year-round operations, you will have to spend some time (approx. 1-2 hours)

23
cleaning and dismantling the unit, so that it can be put away into storage during the coldest
months.

How can I keep my unit from overheating?

Depending on your climate zone, you make experience summer temperatures that exceed the
tolerable limits of a functioning BioPod™. In order to prevent premature crawl of immature
larvae, you must decrease the internal temperature of the pod. Freezing food scraps before
adding them will help bring the thermal levels down, as will the addition of frozen, reusable ice
packs. We do not recommend using liquid gel packs as these could fail, and depending on
contents may poison the inhabitants of your colony. Find ice packs that have a tough, thick shell
and resist abrasion. Use several, and switch them out after they have thawed. Raw ice can
introduce too much moisture to a system, so we don’t suggest adding it to your colony directly.
Use raw ice only if you can keep it separate in a container that will not leak, puncture or spill. As
long as there is no chance of rain, temporary removal of the lid will also help to lower the internal
temperature.

24
 Self-Help Matrix
PROBLEM SOLUTION

Unpleasant odors are Your system has gone anaerobic. Ensure drainage system is not blocked. Mix in some drier
coming from the pod food scraps to absorb excess liquid and break up any pockets of stagnant air with a compost
turner or garden tool. BSF colonies do emit a unique, trademark odor that is neither harmful
nor offensive, but its distinctiveness is noticeable by most users.

I have housefly and fruit New setups can get infested with these maggots initially; this is natural. Over the course of the
fly larvae in my pod next few weeks, they will be displaced by BSF larvae, which have a longer life cycle.

No BSF larvae BSF adults may not be present in your general vicinity. Order some pupae online to get your
system started, or gather some larvae or pupae from a friend’s pod or compost pile.

Dead larvae in the pod Toxic poisons such as those found in some medications or household cleaners may kill your
juveniles. Extreme temperatures can also harm your colony. Keep out questionable chemicals
and protect from severe temperatures.

Not all food is digesting Some foods like citrus rinds or the thick chitin shells of crabs will take longer to digest in your
fast pod. It is necessary for beneficial fungi and bacteria to first neutralize acids and break down
shells before the grubs can devour them. Grind up large fish and poultry bones as much as
possible before placing them in the BioPod™ to insure decomposition and processing.

My unit is heating up too Simply crack or remove the lid and let some of the heat escape, or throw some bagged ice cubes
much in the unit. Just make sure to replace the lid should it begin to rain.

Adult females are laying Make sure that the liquid effluent does not openly pool or drip but drains completely without
their eggs in other places leaking into the clear receptacle. Females have extremely sensitive olfactory reception and will
lay eggs anywhere they detect the scent of BioPod™ tea.

My unit seems too dry In hot arid regions of the US, the pod can dry out too much. Replenish the moisture by simply
adding some de-chlorinated water to your food waste a few hours before dumping in the pod
(the scraps will swell with absorbed water). Misting the contents with a spray bottle will also
alleviate some of the dryness. Warning: NEVER pour water directly into your unit!

The sight of an active It is normal to have the entire pile moving and wriggling. A soothing chamomile tea or back
BioPod™ makes me sick to massage will help calm your nerves. Just keep reminding yourself that all stages of the BSF are
my stomach. completely harmless, and will not transmit disease.

There are small cream Heat stress causes early crawl-off. During heat waves or when the pod exceeds 100 degrees, you
colored juveniles in the may find younger, lighter colored BioGrubs™ in the collection bucket trying to escape the heat.
collection bucket Simply separate and place them back in the unit so that they may continue to grow. For
convenience purposes, you don’t even have to separate the two kinds; simply throw the whole
batch back in and the mature ones will crawl out again.

25
 7
Chapter

For the Kids

the Kids
Kids
Projects for the Whole Family

Project 1

How Nature Decomposes Food

Save a mixture of some interesting food scraps in a compost pail next time you want to show the
kids what actually happens inside the pod. Have them write down the initial contents of the pail,
and record the time of feeding. Then, every two hours, open the pod and check to see what is
happening to the most recently added scraps. Have them create a time sheet and log the changes
that occur. Which foods were digested the fastest, which the slowest? How many hours before
certain scraps were no longer recognizable? Did any scraps survive after 24 hours? After 36
hours? Why?

Project 2

Identification of Various Lifecycle Stages.

Upon close inspection, most ages of BSF can be found in and around the pod. The adults look
like blue-black mud wasps, and depending on the variety in your region, may either fly noticeably
slow, or dart erratically about. Which strain is present in your vicinity? The egg cases can be
found around the ventilation holes on the lid. Some may be clinging to the underside of the
protective cap; others may be on the inner surface of the lid or body. Use a magnifying glass to
locate some of the egg masses (only a few millimeters across and white / cream in color).
Individual eggs are extremely small and difficult to identify. Where were most of the egg clusters
found? Approx. how many eggs are found in the clusters identified? BSF babies are difficult to
find; they appear as tiny specs of moving flour– it is not until they start feeding that they begin
increasing in size. The juveniles have 5-6 distinct growth stages referred to as instars. Each stage
transitioned to the next by molting of the chitin skin. Can you identify the various stages of

26
juveniles in your pod? Can you find examples of the mature grubs and puparium in the collection
bucket? Have you discovered shed exoskeletons in your bedding?

Project 3

Hatching and Releasing Adults.

Take about two dozen of the dark colored pupae that have recently crawled off and place them in
an open bowl with a handful of peat, coir or sawdust. If the bedding material is a noticeably
different color it will be easier to see the pupae. Record when these were allowed to go dormant,
and how many were added to the bowl. Protect from sunlight, weather extremes and predation.
Each day, count to see how many pupae hatched into adults. You won’t have any adults emerge
in the first few days, but pupation does depend on a number of factors like season and
temperature. Compare the daily records and determine the average number of days for your
region. If you are fortunate enough to witness an adult coming out of a puparium, watch to see
how the wings unfold and slowly expand to normal size.

Project 4

How BioGrubs and Redworms Work Together

After a few months of continuous operation, BioCastings™ will start to accumulate at the bottom
of the pod. It is a combination of grub castings and indigestible, composted scraps. The texture
is loose and friable, and the color is dark. This material makes an excellent food for redworms.
Scoop as much of the castings out of the pod as possible – you might need to dump the surface
contents into a temporary bucket in order to uncover them. It is perfectly acceptable to have
juveniles and partially digested scraps mixed into the BioCastings™ – they are all compatible with
redworms, and will not harm each other. Mix it with some shredded paper and in a few weeks
you will have a ready-to-use supply of worm castings. Take 6 tomato, pepper or egg plants. Add
a few scoops of finished worm castings to 2 of them, add BSF castings to 2 of the others, and
leave the other two plants as the control. Watch and record the growth differences over time.

27
 8
Chapter

Glossary
Definitions to key words and concepts

BioPod™ – the name for the unit which houses the BSF colony

BioGrubs™ – the self-harvesting, auto-separating prepupae that accumulate in the collection

bucket. They are an ideal bait, fish food, or bird feed - and may also be fed to livestock or
pet reptiles. They may also be used to inoculate compost bins that accept food scraps, in
order to speed up the process.

BioCastings™ – this is the compost at the bottom of the BioPod™ unit that may be used directly
as a soil amendment, or as a precursor for production of vermi-castings, made by redworms.
Also called BioCompost or BioManure

Bioconversion – is the conversion or organic materials, such as plant or animal waste, into usable
products by biological processes or agents.

BSF – the acronym for Black Soldier Fly

Compost Tea –the nutritious, biologically active liquid effluent that is the by-product of digestion
of food scraps in the BioPod. The primary component of most household food scraps is
water, which collects at the bottom of the unit. In order to maintain aerobic conditions, this
liquid must be allowed to drain continually.

Clay – soils that have a preponderance of fine particles making them almost dough like in texture.
They act as a barrier to water, and can prove detrimental to proper drainage. Use soil
conditions, humus or gypsum to amend heavy clay soils and improve porosity.

Gravid – is a term used in entomology to describe a mated female insect that is carrying fertilized
eggs

Larvae – the juvenile form of the BSF. These are what hatch out of the eggs and are the main
recyclers in the BioPod

Oviposit – the act of laying eggs by gravid females

28
Metamorphosis – the transition from juvenile to adult form. This process is analogous to the
development of a butterfly from a caterpillar.

Prota™Culture – the process by which a significant portion of the proteins and lipids in a food
waste stream are captured and recycled, rather than degraded, into usable biomass by a
beneficial decomposer.

Pupae – the dormant lifecycle phase before the grub becomes a flying adult

Puparium – the pupae enclosed in its hardened, chitin skin

Redworms – the most common segmented annelid used in worm bins. Also called red wrigglers
or composting worms.

Vermiculture – the rearing of segmented annelids, specifically composting redworms, for

beneficial end products including, castings, tea, and worms.

Vermicastings – the finely ground finish material in a worm bin (also called worm castings)

Vermi-Compost – this is another name for the worm castings, or worm poop.

29
 9
Chapter

Acknowledgements
We would like to thank the following for their contributions

Dr. Craig Sheppard

Dudley Pinnock

Gina Fioretti

Grant Canary

Dr. Jeff Tomberlin

Dr. Paul Olivier

Susan Quinby-Honer

Dr. Tran Tan Viet

30
 10
Chapter

How to Contact Us
There are a multitude of ways you can reach us listed below

Prota™Culture
PO Box 660675 #15135
Dallas, TX 75266-0675
Toll Free: 877-444-0450
Customer Service – 214-509-6000
M-F 10 am – 4 pm E.S.T.

Corporate Office
2650 Cedar Springs Rd # 2226
Dallas, TX 75201
Main Phone: 214-509-6002
Facsimile: 214-279-0445
cs@thebiopod.com

Regional Offices
755 Darius Pearce Road
Youngsville NC 27587
Main Phone: 214-509-6001
Fax: 949-272-3724
cs@thebiopod.com

Internet / World Wide Web

http://www.TheBioPod.com - information & support

http://www.eConservation.com - ordering & sales
http://esrint.com - history
http://www.ProtaCulture.com - background

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