The Food of India (2012)
The Food of India (2012)
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Contents
India is a vast and ancient land, its recorded history dating cuisine is thus a discovery of the culture, the richly varied
back over three thousand years. Yet India today, despite history and the spicy treasures of this fascinating land.
its deeply rooted traditions, is the product of centuries of
change—new ideas, new faiths and new products arriving Tastes from a Varied Subcontinent
with traders and invaders—with colonizers, and with India is a land of amazing variety, beginning in the
immigrants fleeing repression elsewhere. The result is a awesome Himalayas in the north and moving on to the
rich tapestry of contradictions and contrasts that never great Gangetic plain with its immense and sacred waters,
ceases to fascinate. down through the harsh but strangely beautiful deserts of
The astonishing variety of India is reflected in its cuisine, Rajasthan, through plateaus and thick forests, through the
which is regarded by those who have enjoyed genuine Indian Punjab (the "Land of Five Rivers") to the lush green splendor
food as being among the world's greatest. Like the overall of Kerala—a distance of more than 1,800 miles.
fabric of the land itself, the cuisine of India is the result of With its vast land area, India naturally encompasses an
countless historical, religious and regional influences. enormous variety of climates. As well as its distinct seasonal
Stretching from the snowy mountains of Kashmir down cycles, India has numerous religions, races and ethnic
to the southern tip of verdant Kerala, from the harsh landscapes which turn the subcontinent into a jigsaw of
deserts of Rajasthan in the west across to the remote tribal small nations, resulting in a culinary kaleidoscope as
regions of Assam on the Burmese border, India colorful as any glass mosaic adorning a Mughal palace.
encompasses an enormous variety of climates that Generally speaking, rice and wheat are the main staples
naturally influence the produce available. The Kashmiris, of the Aryan-influenced north; however, the desert lands of
for example, are largely meat eaters since agricultural Gujarat and Rajasthan depend far more on millet and corn.
produce is limited in mountainous regions. In coastal In the extreme north lies the fairy tale land of Kashmir,
Kerala, where fish abound in the Arabian Sea and "backwaters" where racial origins go back to Persia and Afghanistan.
that weave through coconut groves, fish and rich coconut Nestled in the Himalayas, Kashmir, with its almost
milk curries predominate. legendary beauty of crystal clear lakes and snow-clad
Religion and caste also play their role in influencing mountains, depends largely on the valley of Srinagar for
India's cuisines. This is the land which gave rise to two of agricultural produce. Fruit and nuts are the only real crops
the world's major religions, Buddhism and Hinduism, and of Kashmir, so both Hindus and Muslims depend on a diet
also produced Jainism and Sikhism. Faiths from other rich in meat. Kashmiri food is characterized by its subtle
lands—Islam, Christianity, Zoroastrianism and the Bah'ai blending of fragrant spices (especially the world's most.
faith—have also taken root in the subcontinent. Religious
strictures dictate that certain people will not eat beef or
pork, while others are strict vegetarian.
Yet despite the many differences of religion, caste,
community and class, there are enough common elements
which make it possible to define Indian cuisine. The basis
of an Indian meal is a grain, which may be rice, wheat, mil-
let or corn, depending on the region. This is generally
eaten with lentils or beans (dal), vegetables and savory
pickles or chutneys. Other dishes of fish, meat or poultry
may be added, as well as yogurt. Invariably, lentils, vegeta-
bles and other dishes will be seasoned with spices which
not only perform miracles in transforming the taste of the
food and sharpening appetites jaded by the heat, but have
medicinal values which were recorded in religious texts
some three thousand years ago. Cooking and eating Indian
LEFT: Splendid pageantry and colorful ceremonies are still common throughout
India, RIGHT: A southern Indian vegetarian thali with a range of spiced vegeta-
bles, soup, pickles, rice, breads, banana and dessert.
Food in India 5
expensive spice, saffron), by its richness (often the result of while fruit is enjoyed in season. Meat and fish are consumed
ground nuts or poppy seeds) and by the use of asafoetida, mostly by the more affluent middle class and are not a
a resin that adds a distinctive flavor and is also believed to regular part of the diet, except in the east and northeast.
aid digestion. The east, with its proximity to the Bay of Bengal and its
Some of the most popular Kashmiri foods include lamb numerous ponds and rivers, is where fish consumption is
marinated in yogurt; mutton slow-cooked in milk and highest. This is the only part of India—with the exception of
scented with nutmeg; Roghan Josh, a rich meat curry; and the Kerala coast—where fish is the most popular food.
the famous Goshtaba or meat loaf, cooked for many East Bengal (now Bangladesh) prefers its fish from large
hours to an inimitable silky chewy texture. Kashmiri rivers, while the west, with Calcutta as its nerve center, gets
weddings are incomplete without Mishani or the "seven its seafood from estuaries and ponds. Hilsa, a type of shad
courses of lamb," a paradisaical spread for meat eaters. A which is a member of the herring family, is the most popular
variety of leavened and unleavened breads are an essential fish in the region, despite its numerous small bones.
part of any Kashmiri meal. West Bengal is known for its use of poppy seeds and
The Gangetic plain in the middle and eastern part of mustard seeds; brownish-black mustard seeds are not
India is both a rice and wheat-eating belt, although millet only used as a spice but are crushed to make the oil
and corn are used in some areas by the lower-middle which gives Bengali cooking its distinctive flavor.
classes. The normal meal in this region consists of plain Bengali cuisine is considered elaborate and refined.
rice accompanied by vegetables stir-fried with spices, Bengal is the only place in India where food is served in
dal, unleavened bread (either dry-fried on a griddle or separate courses, the chronology based on ancient beliefs
deep-fried in oil), plain yogurt and a milk based sweet. relating to aiding the digestive process. Bitter leaves and
Chutneys and pickles are common accompaniments, gourd are always served first, followed by rice, dal, chutney
6
and the ubiquitous fish. Even the so-called vegetarians of Rice, the southern staple, is everywhere and appears in
Bengal, who refuse all meat, eat fish and shrimp. Affluent many different guises: steamed, puffed, made into paper-thin
Bengalis also eat meat on occasion. Mishti Doi (sweetened crepes known as dosai or steamed to form idli. Both dosai and
yogurt set in clay pots) is a Bengali delicacy served at the idli are made by soaking rice and dal overnight in butter-
end of the meal, usually with another milk dessert. milk until fermented, then grinding them to make a paste;
The land of South India is essentially composed of this is either steamed to make dumplings or idli, or pan-fried
solidified iron-rich lava dating back some 50 million years to make dosai. These two foods are eaten with different
or more. Rice is known to have been grown in this region chutneys, vegetables and light dal broths known as Sambar.
as far back as 500 B.C., and an efficient irrigation system In Karnataka, the central southern state, some wheat
developed. The Dravidian culture of the south is considerably variations like Mandige exist; this is a delicate dough baked
older than the Aryan culture which influenced the north. on a heated tile and stuffed with a variety of ingredients
Ancient records in the Tamil script, which pre-dates even including sugar, ground cardamom and shredded coconut.
Sanskrit, indicate that this was a highly developed and The basic meal consists of vegetables which accompany
religious land. Architectural wonders depicting Hindu epics the universally popular dosai, idli, or steamed rice.
and gods mark the entire land south of the Vindhya Eggplant is a favorite southern vegetable, seasoned
Mountains, an area where art and music are still preserved with ghee, salt, fenugreek and dal; roasted in oil; spiced, or
and practiced in their traditional forms.
Food, too, retains much of its traditional style in the
south and regardless of class, Southern Indians still sit ABOVE LEFT: Offerings of coconut, bananas, flowers and incense on display
cross-legged on a floor mat to eat from a stainless steel at a market stall in a typical southern Indian village, ABOVE RIGHT: The Kerala
plate (thali) or a piece of fresh banana leaf. backwaters, fringed by endless coconut groves.
Food in India 7
cooked directly over charcoal. The bitter gourd, a popular thought to have introduced the art of distillation, thus
vegetable not always to Western taste, is salted to remove giving birth to the famous Goan feni, which is distilled from
most of the bitterness. It is then stuffed with a variety of the fermented sap of the cashew nut and the coconut palm.
spices and tied with a string before being fried in oil or Gujarat is the haven of vegetarians. Millet, barley and
cooked with an unrefined sugar syrup to offset any bitterness. wheat are equally loved, and snacks are the Gujarati
Relishes abound and are generally pungent. Balaka is art-form. Nasto is made from chickpea flour, mixed with
made of red chilies soaked in salt water, dried, then fried in an assortment of spices and fried. Chevda, or beaten
oil to make a crisp and spicy accompaniment. Papads or rice, is fried and mixed with salt, spices, almonds, raisins
poppadums, paper-fine disks of wheat or rice-flour and and peanuts.
lentil flour, are crisply fried and eaten together with meals. Zoroastrians came in large numbers to settle in India
Sweets in the south are normally variations of rice. Star when they were hounded out of Persia as far back as A.D.
of the somewhat limited repertoire of desserts is Payasam, 850. Parsis, as they are now known, settled largely in
consisting of wheat vermicelli, dal such as Bengal Gram Gujarat. They brought with them a strong meat-eating
{channa dal), or sometimes sago cooked in sugared milk tradition and a love of egg dishes, raisins, nuts, butter and
and spiced with cardamom. cream. They inevitably absorbed Gujarati influences and a
Even though largely vegetarian, the south has its hybrid hybrid cuisine developed. One of the most famous of
groups like the Kodavas, who cook rice with chunks of meat, these dishes is the Parsi fish steamed in banana leaf
serving it with a spicy sesame chutney. Steamed balls of packets. Another widely known Parsi dish is Dhansak, a
rice constitute Kadambaputt, which is eaten with pork one-pot meal combining several types of dal with spices,
cooked with the purplish-black kokum fruit, the acidity of meat and vegetables.
which keeps the fat on the meat firm and springy. Popular Islam swept into India as long ago as the 8th century,
fish include sardines and a tiny whitebait, crisply fried and but it was not until the 16th century that the Muslims gained
eaten whole, bones and all. control over large parts of northern India, converting
The coastal area of Kerala, which has been subjected millions of people to their faith. The Mughul dynasties,
to foreign influences for thousands of years, is a strong fish which ruled various independent states of pre-lndependence
and meat-eating region. Jewish settlers came to Kerala as India, upstaged the mainstream Hindu culture and cuisine
long ago as A.D. 7, bringing with them the notion of significantly. New flavors, rich relishes, meats with cream and
slaughtering lifestock as humanely as possible so that the butter sauces, dates, nuts and delectable sweets were the
meat was acceptable or kosher (a concept adopted by hallmarks of a cuisine that is now widely known and famed
Muslims, who refer to such food as halal). for its exotic, non-vegetarian food, rich and aromatic with
Syrian Christians escaping persecution at home settled the memories and music of a far-distant land.
in the southwestern state of Kerala during the 4th century.
Not being bound by Hindu prohibitions on beef, Kerala's At Home and Abroad
Christians have developed a number of beef dishes It is undisputed among gourmets that Indian food ranks as
where the meat is tenderized by various means (usually one of the world's greatest cuisines. However, like many other
with vinegar or by parboiling before transforming it into a fine cuisines, it does not always travel well, either abroad
rich coconut milk curry). They are also renowned for their or within its vast homeland. Visitors to India, who normally
wild duck dishes, where the duck is either cooked to make eat in their hotels, are likely to come away without any idea
a curry or stuffed and roasted, the latter being a traditional of the astonishing regional variety of food and the excel-
Christmas dish. Wild boar, cooked with a tangy masala lence of home cooking, unless they are fortunate enough
or pickled with oil, is another famous Syrian Christian dish. to have Indian friends invite them into their homes or into
The Muslims of Kerala love their soups of rice and wheat some of the interesting regional restaurants.
laced with spices and coconut milk. Kiskiya, a whole wheat They will probably also leave convinced that tandoori
porridge cooked with minced meat, is an all time favorite. food is India's most popular, despite the fact that it's
Apart from the British, other foreigners who established virtually impossible to find a clay tandoor oven in an Indian
themselves in India were the Portuguese, who remained in home and that this style of cooking originates in just one
their colony of Goa, north of Kerala, from the 16th century region of India, the northwest or Punjab. The current
until after Indian independence from the British, finally wide-spread popularity of tandoori foods in restaurants is
quitting in 1961. Goans are known for their use of vine- a relatively recent phenomenon and largely attributable to
gar and kokum fruit (other Indians add sourness with the fact that the Punjabis are among the most mobile of
tamarind, lime juice, dried mango powder or, in some India's ethnic groups and enjoy eating their own food
areas, kokum) as well as for their love of fiery chilies. when they go out. Other affluent Indians, who eat their own
Classic examples of Goan cuisine are the pork curry, style of cuisine regularly at home, like to try something
Vindaloo, which gets its name from the Portuguese
words for vinegar and garlic, and Sorpotel, a sour hot curry The rich flavor and exotic ingredients introduced by the Mughals make this
of pork, liver and pig's blood. Portuguese priests are type of food among the most popular in India,
8
different when they dine out and find that the tandoori food done to find and standardize the variety of dishes which
of the Punjabis is very much to their taste. come from the Malabar Coast of Southwest India.
"Home cooking" throughout the country is usually simple There is a slow but growing emergence of small chef-
fare where rice, bread and dal constitute the core of the meal. proprietor restaurants throughout India today. The major
Each region and each household then adds its own distinc- constraint here is financial, as real estate in major Indian
tive touch with the vegetables, meat, fish and the "ticklers" cities like Mumbai and Delhi is prohibitive. What draws
(pickles, crunchy papads, yogurt-based salads and raita). people from all backgrounds to these eateries is the fresh-
Although there are thousands of wonderful Indian ness and consistency of the food. Unfortunately, these
recipes, most have been orally handed down from mother places—such as the seafood restaurants, Gujarati thali
to daughter. Wealthy families and the Maharajas patron- houses in Bombay and the South Indian fast food outlets
ized a style of cuisine which was unique and where cooks or darshinis in Bangalore—remain largely inaccessible to
were often employed to create and cook just a single the foreign traveler. Some top Indian hotels, however, aware
dish in their lifetime. In Lucknow, anawab discovered the of criticism of the domination of Punjabi-style tandoor
technique of slow cooking with steam inside the pot (dum), cuisine, are now starting to offer menus that reflect the
lid sealed, and dough and hot coals placed on top. A enormous variety of India's culinary heritage on their menus.
chain of hotels introduced this type of cuisine to a broader
market within India, after much research in tracking down ABOVE: Despite an army of servants, memsahibs often found entertaining a
the often illiterate old cooks. Similarly, much work was challenging affair in India.
10
The Great Spice Bazaar
Walk into an Indian home at mealtime or into a good Indian
restaurant and you will be engulfed by a wave of heavenly
aromas. Without doubt, the most distinctive feature of Indian
food is its creative combination of spices which give an
inimitable flavor and aroma. The use of spices in India was
recorded in Sanskrit texts 3,000 years ago. The Ayurveda, an
ancient treatise on health covering aspects of both mental and
physical health, sets out principles for healthy living— includ-
ing lists of various spices and their medicinal properties. So
great was the importance of spices for seasoning as preserv-
atives and as medicine—not just in India but throughout the The most colorful stall in the market, the spice merchant,
world—that the search for their source pushed the Europeans pales in comparison with the fields where turmeric and red
into the Age of Exploration in the 15th century. chilies are harvested and dried. In the stark yellow deserts
Given their long familiarity with spices, it is not surprising of Rajasthan, the spice fields have a colorful splendor quite
that Indian cooks use them as skillfully as an artist uses the their own. One of the glorious sights of Kashmir are the
colors of his palette. "Spices", in a culinary sense, embraces fields of purplish-blue crocuses, whose fine thread-like
dried seeds, berries, bark, rhizomes, flowers, leaves and orange stigmas are harvested in October and November.
chilies. Each spice has its own culinary and medicinal prop- Although India is modernizing and neat plastic packets
erties. Certain spices are used whole, others always ground of spices can be bought all over the country, many house-
into powder; some are superb with meat but overpower wives still buy loose spices from the spice merchant and
more delicate fish and vegetable dishes. Only a few spices grind their spices just before cooking. But what of "curry
(cardamom, saffron and cinnamon) are used for desserts, powder," that ingredient which some Western cooks consider
yet these same spices also appear in meat dishes. It seems the basis of all Indian curries? No Indian cook would dream
Jittle short of miraculous that the Indian cook remembers of using the same combination of spices for all types of food.
which spices to use and in what combination (for recipes are There are specific combinations of whole or ground spices
almost never written down). (masala) for certain dishes, but these are never used alone.
Any combination of spices is referred to as a masala. The Curry powder as sold outside India was initially developed
most widely used—a fragrant combination of dark, pungent in Madras for nostalgic British trying to recapture the
spices including cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and cardamom, flavors of India after they returned home.
with the optional addition of nutmeg, mace and saffron in The medicinal properties of spices are taken into account
northern regions—is known as garam masala. With such when food is prepared, as well as the interaction of each
tremendous climatic variations in India, certain spices grow only spice with the properties of a vegetable or dal. Some
in particular regions. While cardamoms, cloves and peppers are vegetables and dais are supposed to create gas in the body,
harvested mainly in the south, the regional market places of so asafoetida, cinnamon and cumin are used to balance
Rajasthan, Kashmir and Gujarat also grow many spices, with this. Turmeric is an antiseptic and drunk mixed with hot milk
piles of freshly ground red chilies alongside vivid yellow turmeric, to check internal hemorrhages. Regular use in everyday
which is flanked by mounds of cardamoms and black peppers. foods helps prevent internal wounds and infections.
Clove, fennel and cardamom tea has many benefits,
especially for the common cold, upset stomach and chill.
Saffron boiled in milk is supposed to check anemia and
help restore strength. Ginger crushed with honey is sure to
cure the worst cough and garlic will not only keep cholesterol
levels down, but reduce the ill effects of toxins in the body.
Fenugreek seeds roasted in oil help ease arthritic pains,
asafoetida roasted on an iron griddle and mixed with salt
helps clear gastric disorders. Every Indian home uses spices
for natural cures, the recipes passed down for countless
generations from the ancient religious texts.
LEFT: Spices have been used for their medicinal properties as well as for
flavoring and preservation since time immemorial, ABOVE: Nutmegs being
weighed in the wholesale spice market of Cochin.
Indian food abroad is a different matter. Although "curry" has in these cities initially catered only to Indians, but as general
been around in Britain since the days of the Raj, it was, for food awareness increased, so did the number of restaurants
many years, just a spicy alternative to bland British fare where sensitivity in terms of both the food and the decor play
and bore little resemblance to anything produced in Indian an essential role. And with the world-wide trend of "fusion
homes. During the 1970s, however, genuine interest and cuisine," where elements of one culinary style are blended
awareness of food developed and Indian restaurants with another, one can expect the use of Indian spice blends
became aware of the new upmarket demands for authen- and Indian vegetables to creep in everywhere. Indian cuisine,
ticity, freshness and attractive decor. There were Indian despite its ancient traditions, is still evolving and creating
cooking programs on television; ingredients like Basmati new dishes. Travelers look forward to the day when the best
rice, whole spices, fresh ginger, fresh coriander and curry of India's regional cuisines will be easily available in the
pastes began to appear on supermarket shelves and eat- country's better restaurants and hotels. — Karen Anand
ing authentic Indian food became trendy.
This story has been repeated in places as far flung as ABOVE: The ultimate in hospitality in the courtyard of Fort Naila, Rajasthan,
Hong Kong, Sydney and San Francisco. Indian restaurants owned by The Oberoi Group.
12
The Honored Guest
The hospitality of Indians, no matter how humble or how
lavish their homes, is little short of overwhelming. Part of
the explanation for this is that the guest is still seen as an
evocation of God and his arrival considered an auspicious
event. Athithya, a sacred word which means serving a
guest, is an important part of a man's social duties and
from the Vedic times, guests were ceremoniously received
with the traditional yogurt, milk, honey and sugar.
In a land of many poor households, this attitude is still
strong, especially in the countryside. Guest is a generic
term for anyone who visits and total strangers coming into
a village or family are treated with respect; any visitor, even
to a poor village, is served water and something sweet.
During a festival in some villages in the Punjab, doors are
left open to any guest who enters, and they are fed,
regardless of class or caste.
Three distinct meal times mark eating patterns every-
where. Breakfast, lunch (which is a far more elaborate meal
than Western sandwich lunches) and dinner are uniform.
Traditionally, guests, would visit only on special occasions
and festivals, but in modern India and especially among although in the south it is followed by rice with curds or
the middle and upper classes, inviting friends for a meal is buttermilk which are believed to soothe the stomach after a
now a common social practice. Food is generally served spicy meal.
on a banana leaf or a stainless steel thali. Washing the Finally, paan or the betel leaf and its seasonings adds
hands before meals is an important ritual, since Indians that very Indian touch to athithiya, apart from acting as a
generally use their fingers to eat and the meal is eaten digestive. This leaf is chewed along with a slice of areca
squatting down, usually on the kitchen floor. A small straw nut, a dab of slaked lime and a smear of katha paste
mat is placed for sitting and the thali or banana leaf is laid (another wood extract). Primarily a southern practice, paan
in front of the mat, either on the floor or on a low stool. is now eaten at all times of the day all the way up to the
Families eat together, except for the mother or wife northeast. Artistically crafted paan containers or pandaan in
who serves the meal. In middle class homes, however, this copper, brass and silver hold the different ingredients. Paan
role is taken over by the household help. The family concoctions have grown elaborate and up to 15 condiments
normally sits in a straight line and the women of the can be added, including the infamous but popular zarda, or
household serve and refill the thali repeatedly. As it is chewing tobacco. The pandaans are carefully perforated to
considered discourteous and unclean to serve while eating, allow air circulation and come together with a tool designed
the mother or wife serving in a traditional household will not for slicing the areca nut; these are often exquisitely
eat until the men have finished. Female guests can either designed in the shape of celestial figures or adorned with
be served with the men or eat with the women later. amorous carvings. Spittoons to carry the residue of the
Water is sprinkled around the banana leaf or thali to saliva and chewed leaf are elaborate vessels of metal. The
purify it before beginning a meal. The thali contains all the betel quid can mean many things: hospitality; moral and
courses of the meal, but there is usually an order in which legal commitment; a digestive; and a fitting end to the
the food is eaten. The first mouthfuls of rice are eaten with remarkable hospitality displayed during a meal.
ghee or chutney and spicy additives. Dal is served along An alternative digestive to paan is the delightful mixture
with a variety of dry-cooked vegetables seasoned with of spices (especially aniseed-flavored fennel), dried fruits
different spices and garnishes. Papads and relishes are (sometimes coated with silver leaf), tiny sugar-coated balls,
replenished, as are the dal and rice. The best portions of sugar crystals drenched with rose essence and other tangy
fish and meat are always offered to the guest; in Bengal, combinations known collectively as supari. It is so popular
this would be the head of the fish, regarded as the choicest that airlines within India offer passengers the choice of
portion. Roti or unleavened bread, puri (fried puffed wheat boiled sweets or tiny packets .of supari, continuing the
bread) and paratha (shallow-fried wheat bread) are com- tradition of honoring a guest.
mon in the north and are eaten with dal and vegetables.
The sweet, which is milk based, completes the meal, ABOVE: Even Indian gods are believed to be tempted by earthly food.
The Indian Kitchen
A place of sanctity and surprising simplicity
The traditional Indian kitchen was once considered an area Spices and various season-
of sanctity, with many taboos on who could enter, how they ings such as ginger, garlic and
should be dressed and the ways in which pollution could onions, as well as grains such
be avoided. Most of this has changed today, although the as rice and lentils are ground at
importance of the Indian hearth within the home is still home. The grinding stone is such
paramount in most Indian households. an important symbol of the hearth
Millions of Indian kitchens are essentially very simple, and home that in some areas of
with the stove set in the center. Although this stove, or the country, the bride stands on a
chula, is often heated by charcoal, in the countryside, dried grinding stone during part of the
cow-dung cakes and wood shavings are still widely used. wedding ceremony, symbolizing
In fact, dried dung is actually considered more "pure" than that she is now mistress of her own
any other type of fuel and provides a gentle heat ideal for household.
slow cooking. Modern gas stoves have replaced the chula Small amounts of spices are
in many middle class urban homes. crushed just before cooking, either on a flat granite slab or,
Cooking ranges and electric gadgets, such as rice in the south, in a black stone concave bowl. Large slabs of
cookers and blenders, are slowly appearing in urban granite with a granite rolling pin are used for grinding large
Indian homes, but since many of these households can amounts of seasonings or grain. Modern cooks can use a
afford kitchen help, traditional methods are preserved for mortar and pestle or will find a blender, food processor
taste and authenticity. or spice grinder a welcome substitute for the grinding
Since the chula is normally placed on the floor, most stone; ideal for grinding spices quickly and effortlessly.
Indian women cook sitting down on a small wooden stool. Steaming utensils for making idli in the south and
For this reason, shoes—which might bring in dirt from the farsan in Gujarat are common, some of them are now
outside— made to fit into pressure cookers. Other regional cuisines
are rarely demand special utensils, such as the cylindrical clay
allowed ovens, or tandoor, used to bake Mughul-style breads and
into a tra- meats in the north. In Kashmir, samovars bubble all day
ditional Indian long, brewing the favorite aromatic green tea, kahwah,
kitchen. A large together with green cardamoms and almonds.
wok-like cooking Coconut graters are essential items in Bengali and south-
utensil called the ern Indian kitchens. A serrated iron disk mounted on wood,
kadai, is used for stir-fry- and often hand-cranked, is used for removing the fibers from
ing. The kadai, which is made of iron, brass or aluminum, the coconut as well as for shredding and grating the flesh.
is slightly deeper than a wok, but the latter makes an
OPPOSITE: Most spices are bought whole and freshly ground at home.
excellent substitute.
LEFT: A lined copper kadai for stir-frying, ABOVE: An old fuel stove with a grid-
For cooking rice and curries, a flat-lidded, straight-sided dle or tawa for cooking flatbreads. BELOW: A traditional granite grinding slab,
pan known as a degchi is used. These were traditionally
made of lined brass, but are now generally made of alu-
minum and very inexpensive, even if less attractive.
Almost any saucepan can be used for cooking Indian
dishes, but take care to choose one that has a non-reactive
lining, since many Indian dishes contain acid. Nonstick
skillets are ideal for Indian cooking as they avoid the
problem of spices sticking to the bottom of the skillet. It is
also perfect for those who are more health-conscious, as it
allows the use of less oil when frying.
Indian breads are rolled out with a wooden rolling pin
on a flat circular stone slab or wooden board and cooked
on a heavy iron griddle, or tawa. A heavy cast iron skillet
or pancake griddle makes a good substitute.
16
Authentic Indian Ingredients
cardamom pods are small, green or Chickpeas are also known as gar-
straw-colored, and contain a dozen or banzo beans and are light tan in color
so tiny, intensely aromatic black and pea-shaped in appearance, with
seeds. Large black cardamom pods, a firm texture and a nutty flavor. Look
which are at least six times the size of for dried or canned chickpeas in well
the green cardamoms, are used stocked supermarkets and health
mainly in savory dishes. Do not buy food stores.
ground cardamom as it is virtually
flavorless compared with the
Asafoetida is a strong-smelling brown heavenly fragrance of the freshly
resin. Known in India as hing, it adds roasted and ground whole spice.
an onion flavor to cooked food and is Bruise the pods lightly if using the
believed to aid digestion. Often used in spice whole.
lentil dishes, it is sold in a box or tin
as a solid lump, or in the form of powder.
18
that of hazelnuts, although they are yield about ½ cup of coconut cream. brown (above left), to a light green
perhaps best substituted with a mix- Thick coconut milk is obtained by the and black (above right). Cumin seeds
ture of hazelnuts and almonds. same method, but the water is dou- are believed to aid digestion and are
bled to 1 cup and it should yield about used in most Indian spice blends.
1 cup of thick coconut milk. Thin
coconut milk is obtained by adding
1 cup of water to the already pressed
coconut flesh a second time and
straining again, this should yield
1 cup of thin coconut milk.
20
hours under the weight of a heavy spice. The dried strands should be many Indian dishes, particularly in
object (see page 27 for Homemade allowed to infuse in warm milk before southern India. More commonly avail-
Paneer recipe). Vegetarians may prefer being added to rice and dessert dishes. able as a dried pulp and sold in plas-
to substitute firm tofu in the recipes Store saffron in the freezer as it loses tic packets, bottled concentrated
that call for paneer, and cream cheese its fragrance quickly, and never buy tamarind juice is also available. If
or ricotta may also be substituted. powdered saffron if you want the true using the dried pulp, soak the dried
aroma of this spice. pulp in warm water to soften, then
Peppercorns are dried green berries, mash well and strain to remove any
borne from a vine thought to be native seeds or fibers. The strained juice is
to the Malabar Coast of India. The what is used. The dried pulp is some-
dried peppercorns are generally sold times used directly without this pre-
black (that is, with their skin intact) liminary soaking; be sure to pick it
and are used both whole, or when over carefully first and discard any
black pepper is called for, freshly fibers and stones. Make sure you
ground. purchase the naturally sour tamarind
pulp and not the sweetened variety.
Stored in an airtight container, the
pulp keeps almost indefinitely.
Shallots (hormlek) are small and round
and have a pinkish-purple color.
Shallots add a sweet oniony flavor
and a hint of garlic to countless dishes.
They are also sliced, deep-fried and
used as a garnish.
Basic Recipes 23
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup (250 ml) mustard oil or veg- Onion Mustard Pickles
2 teaspoons salt etable oil Pyaz Ka Achar
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
1 Dry-roast the first seven ingredients 1 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji) ½ cup (125 ml) mustard oil or veg-
in a nonstick wok or skillet and heat 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds etable oil
2 teaspoons ground red pepper 2 tablespoons black mustard seeds
gently, continuously stirring for 2 to
2 teaspoons ground turmeric 1 teaspoon ground red pepper
3 minutes until the spices are fragrant.
2 teaspoons Garam Masala (page 23) ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 Remove from the heat, add the
1 onion, sliced, then pureed in a 1½ tablespoons white vinegar
salt and grind to a powder in a blender 2 tablespoons sugar
blender or mortar and pestle while 1 tablespoon grated ginger ¼ tablespoon salt
still warm. Mix in the remaining 5 cloves garlic, crushed 1½ tablespoons dried mango powder
ingredients and allow to cool. Store 1 large lemon, deseeded and cut into (amchoor)
tightly bottled. This salty, sour Chaat wedges 5-8 green chilies
Masala (the approximate translation 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime 15 cloves garlic, peeled
of the name is "finger licking"!) is juice 1 tablespoon grated ginger
sprinkled over cooked food for 1 1 / 2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon crushed garlic
additional flavor. 1 lb (500 g) onions, peeled and sliced
2
1 Peel and cut the carrot and mango / 3 cup (150 ml) of freshly squeezed
into small strips. Peel and slice the lime juice
Preparation Time: 10 mins Cooking
Time: 10 mins Yields 1/2 cup lotus root. Leave the chilies whole.
2 Heat the mustard oil in a wok or 1 Heat the oil in a wok to smoking
skillet to smoking point, then add point, then set aside to cool.
the fennel, nigella and mustard 2 Place the mustard seeds, red
seeds and stir-fry for 1 minute until pepper, turmeric, vinegar, sugar, salt
Pickles and Chutneys
the spices crackle. Add the red and mango powder in a blender or
pepper, turmeric, Garam Masala, food processor, and grind to a
Mixed Vegetable Pickles onion, ginger and garlic, and con- paste. Add this to the oil, together
Sabzi Achar tinue stirring for 3 to 4 minutes. Add with the remaining ingredients.
the vegetables and lemon wedges. 3 Stir to mix well and store in steril-
1 medium carrot 3 Remove from the heat and add ized jars, covering the pickles com-
2 medium unripe green mangoes (8 the lime juice and salt. Stir to mix pletely with oil. Keeps 3 to 4 weeks.
oz/250 g)
well. Place the mixture in sterilized
1 section lotus root (4 oz/125 g) Preparation Time: 30 mins Cooking
jars, covering it completely with a
3-5 green chilies
layer of mustard oil in order to pre- Time: 3 mins Yields 4 cups
serve the pickles. If necessary, add
more oil which has first been
heated to smoking point,
Lemon Mango Pickles
then cooled. Keeps 3 Nimbu Aur Aam Ka Achar
to 4 months. 1 lb (500 g) lemons, washed, cut into
w2edges and deseeded
Preparation Time: 5-7 green chilies, halved lengthwise
20 mins 2 unripe green mangoes (8 oz/250 g),
Cooking Time: peeled and diced
10 mins ½ cup (125 ml) lemon juice
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
1 1 / 2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup (250 ml) mustard oil or veg-
etable oil
24
cover loosely with a cloth and leave Tamarind Ginger Chutney 1 can (16 oz/450 g) peeled, whole
in the sun for 6 days. tomatoes, drained; or 4 medium
Saunth Ki Chatni
2 Heat the oil to smoking point, allow tomatoes (16 oz/450 g), blanched
to cool, then stir into the lemon mix- 3 and peeled
/ 4 cup (200 g) tamarind pulp
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
ture. Leave in the sun for another 3 cups (750 ml) hot water
2 teaspoons ground red pepper
4 days then cover the jar with a lid, 10 dates, stones removed (optional)
4 teaspoons sugar
Store in a cool, dry place away from 2 teaspoons ground red pepper 1
/ 2 teaspoon salt
the light. Keeps for several months. 2 tablespoons grated ginger
1
/2 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
½ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and
Preparation Time: 25 mins Cooking
2 teaspoons cumin seeds fry the mustard and nigella seeds,
Time: 5 mins Yields 4 cups
1 cup (120 g) shaved palm sugar or curry leaves and asafoetida for
dark brown sugar 1 minute until the spices crackle.
Goan Shrimp Pickles 2 teaspoons sugar, or more to taste 2 Add the garlic and ginger, stir-fry
Mole de Camarao
½ teaspoon salt, or more to taste gently for a few minutes, then add
the chilies and tomatoes and cook
½ cup (125 ml) oil 1 Place the tamarind pulp and hot for about 10 minutes until the tomatoes
1 lb (500 g) medium shrimp, peeled water in a saucepan. Mash and turn pulpy.
and patted dry strain the pulp to obtain the liquid. 3 Add the turmeric, red pepper and
½ teaspoon cumin seeds Add the dates, if using, and simmer sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves.
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns over low heat for 30 minutes. Strain Add the salt and serve hot. This
1 teaspoon ground turmeric to remove the seeds and fiber. chutney keeps for 3 to 4 days refrig-
1 medium onion, diced 2 Dry-roast the nigella, fennel and erated, if stored in a covered jar.
2-3 cloves garlic
cumin seeds in a nonstick wok or
1 tablespoon minced ginger Preparation Time: 20 mins Cooking
skillet for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring
4 green cardamom pods, seeds
continuously until fragrant. Grind the Time: 15 mins Yields 1½ cups
removed and husks discarded
10 dried chilies, dry-roasted in a seeds to a powder in a blender or
skillet until crisp mortar and pestle.
1 teaspoon cinnamon 3 Return the strained juice to the Fresh Coconut Chutney
1-2 cups (250-500 ml) white vinegar saucepan and add the red pepper, Thenga Chatni
1 teaspoon salt ginger and the ground spices. Cook
over low heat for 10 minutes, then 3 cups (250 g) freshly grated coconut
3 green chilies, minced
1 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and add the palm sugar and stir until
4-5 cloves garlic, minced
stir-fry the shrimp for 5 minutes. dissolved. Add the sugar and salt 1
/ 2 tablespoon minced ginger
Drain and set aside. and mix thoroughly Serve with
3 tablespoons Bengal gram (channa
2 Grind or blend all the seasonings appetizers such as Pakora (page dal) or yellow split peas
in a blender or food processor with 28) or Vegetable Samosas (page 1
/ 2 teaspoon salt
2-3 tablespoons of vinegar, to 28), or simple vegetable dishes for
make a paste. Transfer to a extra tang. Will keep in a refrigerator Seasonings
saucepan and dilute to a thin sauce for about 1 week. 1 teaspoon oil
with the rest of the vinegar. Simmer ¼ teaspoon black mustard seeds
over low heat for 30 minutes. Add Preparation Time: 30 mins Cooking ½ teaspoon white lentils (urad dal)
the salt, then cool. Time: 40 mins Yields 1½ cups 1-2 dried chilies, broken and deseeded
5 curry leaves
3 Pack the shrimp into a sterilized
Pinch of asafoetida powder
glass jar and pour the sauce over
the shrimp. Make sure there is a Tomato Chutney
Hussaini Tamatar Qoot 1 Prepare the Seasonings by heat-
layer of oil covering the top of the
ing the oil in a wok or skillet and
shrimp. Allow to pickle for 3 days
2 tablespoons oil stir-frying the ingredients, except for
before eating. This pickle is an ideal 1 1 / 2 teaspoons black mustard seeds the asafoetida, for 1 minute until the
accompaniment to any seafood 1 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji) mustard seeds begin to pop. Add
dish and can be kept in the fridge 10 curry leaves the asafoetida, stir, then remove
for 1 to 2 months. 2 pinches of asafoetida powder
from the heat and set aside.
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
2 Using a blender or food processor,
Preparation Time: 35 mins 1 1 / 2 teaspoons grated ginger
Cooking Time: 40 mins 3-4 greeh chilies, slit lengthwise and coarsely grind the coconut with the
deseeded chilies, garlic, ginger, Bengal gram,
Basic Recipes 25
salt, and the mint and coriander chilies, onion, coconut, curry leaves Sweet Mango Chutney
leaves if you are making Green and coriander leaves in a blender or
Coconut Chutney (recipe below). food processor, and pulse a few 1 lb (500 g) ripe mangoes, peeled
3 Add the coconut mixture to the times to just mix. and diced
Seasonings and mix well. Serve in a 4 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and 2 tablespoons grated ginger
bowl with Dosai (page 40), idli, 1 cup (250 g) sugar
stir-fry the mustard seeds and
2 teaspoons salt
vadai or other southern Indian Bengal gram for 1 minute until the
1 1 / 2 teaspoons ground red pepper
breads and snacks. mustard seeds begin to pop. Add 1 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
the mango mixture to the wok and 5 tablespoons freshly squeezed
Preparation Time: 20 mins Cooking mix well. Season with salt and serve. lime juice
Time: 5 mins Yields 1 3 / 4 cups
Preparation Time: 20 mins Cooking 1 Place the mango and ginger into
Time: 5 mins Yields 4 cups a saucepan and cook for 8 to 10
Green Coconut Chutney minutes over low heat until most of
2 cups (50 g) mint leaves the juice has evaporated.
½ cup (25 g) coriander leaves 2 Add the sugar, salt, red pepper,
(cilantro) Garam Masala and lime juice, and
Ingredients for the Fresh Coconut cook over low heat until the sugar
Chutney recipe (recipe above) dissolves and the chutney thickens
3 Cool thoroughly before storing in
1 Follow the recipe for the Fresh clean sterilized jars. The chutney
Coconut Chutney recipe, adding may be eaten the next day, but is
the mint and coriander leaves best served a week later. It can be
when coarsely grinding the stored in the refrigerator for up to
coconut mixture in Step 2. Serve 3 months. Serve with any Indian
with Indian breads and snacks. meal.
26
1 Combine 1 cup (250 ml) of the Miscellaneous Mint and Cucumber Raita
milk with the rest of the ingredients,
except the pistach ios, and blend to 1/2 cup (25 g) mint leaves
a paste in a blender or food proces- Onion, Tomato and 1/2 cup (25 g) coriander leaves
sor. Strain through a muslin or Cucumber Relish (Cilantro)
cheesecloth-lined sieve. Kachumber 1 baby cucumber, diced
2 Add the remaining milk to the 2 teaspoons grated ginger
strained mixture and check for 1 medium onion, finely diced 1 teaspoon minced green chilies
sweetness. Ch ill for 3 to 4 hours to 2 medium tomatoes, finely diced 1 cup (250 g) yogurt
allow the flavors to combine and 3 tablespoons (30 g) finely diced 1/4 teaspoon salt
cucumber 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black
serve in tall glasses, each gar-
1 tablespoon minced coriander pepper
nished with a little ground pistachio.
leaves (cilantro)
1 green chili, deseeded and minced 1 Mince the mint and coriander
Serves 4 Preparation Time: 20 mins 1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper leaves and combin e with the
Chil ling Time: 4 hours 1/2 teaspoon salt
cucumber, ginger and green chi lies.
1/2 cup (125 ml) lemon juice
2 Whisk the yogurt in a bowl, add
the mint mixture, salt and pepper
Savory Cumin Drink 1 Mix together the onions, tomatoes, and mix well. Serve as an
Jal Jeera cucumber, coriander, green chili accompaniment to any Indian
and red pepper. Immediately before meal.
2 tablespoons black cumin seeds serving, stir in the salt and lemon
2 teaspoons dried mango powder juice and serve with Dhansak Dal Preparation Time : 15 minutes
(amchoor)
(page 101) or any other Indian meal .
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
Preparation Time: 15 mins
11/2 teaspoons dried mint
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper
1/4 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain)
1/4 teaspoon asafoetida powder
Homemade Paneer
4 cloves
4 cups (1 liter) fresh milk
11/2 teaspoons rock salt
1 tablespoon of lemon juice or 1
1 teaspoon salt
tablespoon white vinegar
Fresh mint leaves, to garnish (optional)
Basic Recipes 27
Vegetable Samosas
7 tablespoons (100 g) ghee or butter 1 Rub the ghee or butter into the flour until the mixture is crumbly. Mix in the
2 cups (250 g) flour carom seeds and salt, then gradually add the water to make a firm but
½ teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain) pliable dough. Leave for 30 minutes, covered with a damp cloth.
1
/ 2 teaspoon salt 2 Prepare the Filling by boiling the potatoes in a pot of salted water until
2
/ 3 cup (150 ml) water
tender. Cut the potatoes into small cubes. Heat the oil and stir-fry the cumin
Oil for deep-frying
seeds in a nonstick skillet for about 1 minute until they begin to crackle.
Add the remaining ingredients and continue stir-frying for 1 minute. Set
Filling
8 oz (250 g) potatoes aside to cool.
2 tablespoons oil 3 Roll out the pastry thinly, then cut into circles, 3 in (6 cm) in diameter. Cut
½ teaspoon cumin seeds each circle in half. Place a spoonful of Filling in the center of one semi-circle
1/3 cup (50 g) fresh or frozen green of pastry. Fold the two ends of the semi-circle over the Filling to form a
peas, cooked triangle, pressing the edges together to seal firmly.
½ teaspoon salt' 4 Heat the oil in a wok and deep-fry the samosas for about 5 minutes until
1 teaspoon ground coriander golden brown. Serve hot with Mint Coriander Chutney (page 26).
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½-1 teaspoon ground red pepper Makes 8 pieces Preparation time: 15 mins + 30 mins resting time
1 green chili, deseeded and minced Cooking time: 15 mins
1 teaspoon dried mango powder
(amchoor)
1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 Dry-roast the coriander seeds in a nonstick wok or skillet, stirring
7 oz (200 g) unripe bananas continuously for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Allow to cool, then grind to a
12 oz (350 g) boiled potatoes, mashed powder in a blender or mortar and pestle.
1 teaspoon Chaat Masala (page 23) 2 Steam the bananas in the skins until soft, then cool. Remove the skins
1
/4 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
and grate the bananas. Combine the grated bananas with the remaining
½ teaspoon salt
ingredients, except for the vermicelli and oil. Mix well, then shape the
2 tablespoons minced ginger
mixture into balls and roll in the vermicelli, pressing lightly to make sure the
1 heaped tablespoon minced coriander
leaves (cilantro) vermicelli adheres.
2 green chilies, deseeded and minced 3 Heat the oil in a wok and deep-fry the balls until they are golden brown.
1 heaped tablespoon cornstarch
31/2 oz (100 g) fine wheat or rice Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 mins Cooking time: 10 mins
vermicelli, broken into small pieces
Oil for deep-frying
2 medium potatoes (9 oz/250 g) 1 Peel the potatoes, halve them lengthwise, then cut in slices about 1 / 4 in (5
1 large or 2 small slender Asian egg- mm) thick. Do not peel the eggplant, but slice in the same thickness as the
plants potatoes. Peel, then slice the onion in the same thickness as the potatoes.
1 large onion Set the vegetables aside.
2 cups (250 g) chickpea flour or besan
2 Combine the chickpea flour, salt, red pepper and baking soda, mixing
1 teaspoon salt
well. Add the cold water to make a very thick batter of coating consistency.
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
3
/ 4 teaspoon baking soda (bicarbon- 3 Dip the vegetables, one at a time, into the batter, coating thoroughly. Heat
ate of soda) the oil in a wok until very hot and deep-fry for 5 to 6 minutes until golden
3
/ 4 cup (175 ml) cold water brown and cooked on the inside. Drain and set aside. Serve hot.
Oil for deep-frying
Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 20 mins
28
Diced Chicken Masala on Toast
These two Anglo-Indian dishes are very mildly spiced and served, British-style, on hot toast.
1
/4cup (60 g) yogurt 1 In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, chili paste, Garam Masala, ¼ tea-
1 teaspoon chili paste or minced spoon garlic, ¼ teaspoon ginger and lemon juice with the chicken. Mix
fresh chilies thoroughly and marinate for 30 minutes.
½ teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23) 2 Heat the oil in a skillet and stir-fry the onions until lightly browned. Add the
1
/ 2 teaspoon crushed garlic
spices and the remaining garlic and ginger, and continue to stir-fry for 2 to 3
½ teaspoon minced ginger
minutes until fragrant. Add the chicken (and any marinade), stir for 1 minute,
1 tablespoon lemon juice
8 oz (250 g) boneless chicken, diced then add the tomatoes. Simmer uncovered until the chicken is tender.
1½ tablespoons oil or butter 3 Remove the chicken and simmer the sauce until it has thickened. Remove
1 medium onion, sliced the sauce from the heat and stir in the coriander and chicken. Season with
¼ teaspoon ground coriander salt and pepper and serve warm, spread on hot buttered toast.
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
½ teaspoon ground turmeric Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 30 minutes marinating time
½ tablespoon curry powder Cooking time: 30 mins
1 teaspoon paprika
5 medium tomatoes, or ½ can (8
oz/225 g) whole tomatoes, diced
2 tablespoons minced coriander
leaves (cilantro)
1
/ 4 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon minced ginger
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 large onion, sliced
2 tablespoons chickpea flour or besan
1 green apple, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cloves
2 medium tomatoes, blanched, peeled and diced
1 bay leaf or 1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
3 cups (750 ml) chicken stock or 2 chicken stock
cubes dissolved in 3 cups (750 ml) boiling water
½ CUP (125 ml) coconut cream or 1 cup (250 ml) milk (optional)
1-2 tablespoons boiled rice (optional)
1 cup (125 g) cooked chicken, shredded
Lemon wedges, to serve
1 Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for
2 minutes. Add the onion and stir-fry until the onion is transparent.
2 Add the chickpea flour, apple, cumin, coriander, turmeric, cloves, tomatoes,
bay leaf, black pepper, red pepper, chicken stock and coconut cream. Bring
to a boil, cover, then reduce the heat to low.
3 Simmer for 45 minutes then process in a blender. Add the rice, if using,
and chicken, stir well and serve with lemon wedges.
1 tablespoon oil 1 Heat the oil in a saucepan and stir-fry the mustard seeds for about 1
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds minute until they crackle. Add the green chilies, garlic and ginger. Stir-fry for
2 green chilies, minced 5 minutes, then add the yogurt, chicken stock and salt.
½ teaspoon crushed garlic 2 Simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent
1
/ 4 teaspoon grated ginger
3
the yogurt from curdling. Add the turmeric, red pepper, coriander and mint
/ 4 cup (190 g) yogurt
leaves, mix well and serve hot, sprinkled with a few drops of chili oil.
3 cups (750 ml) chicken or vegetable
stock or 2 chicken stock cubes in 3
Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 20 mins
cups of boiling water
¼ teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground turmeric
Pinch of ground red pepper
1 teaspoon minced coriander leaves
(cilantro)
½ teaspoon minced mint leaves
Few drops of chili oil, to garnish
(optional)
For the best results, chapati should be properly kneaded; using slow speed and a plastic blade in
a food processor is an acceptable alternative to 10 to 15 minutes of hand-kneading
2 cups (250 g) very fine whole wheat 1 Sift the flour into a bowl, gradually adding the water and mixing together
(wholemeal) flour, or plain flour with your fingertips. The dough should be pliable, yet not too sticky Mix in
3
/ 4 cup (175 ml) warm water the ghee or butter. Turn the dough out onto a floured board or place in a
2 teaspoons softened ghee or butter food processor. Knead by hand for 10 to 15 minutes or process on low
speed for 5 minutes. Roll the dough into a ball, cover with a damp cloth and
set aside to rest for at least 1 hour.
2 Knead the dough again for 3 to 4 minutes, then divide the dough into
twelve balls of equal size. On a lightly floured surface, flatten the balls with
your hands, then roll them out into flat circles.
3 Heat a nonstick skillet until very hot, place a piece of dough in the skillet
and cook for 1 minute until brown spots appear underneath. Turn over and
cook for 1 more minute on the other side, pressing the top of the chapati
with a clean cloth to help air bubbles form and to keep the chapati light. As
each chapati is cooked, wrap it in a clean cloth to keep warm. Serve with
Bean and Lentil Stew (page 49) or Gujarati Spiced Vegetables with Coconut
(page 51).
Puri are a delicious alternative to chapati and exactly the same dough is used. To ensure they puff up when
cooking, keep flicking the hot oil over the top while the puri are cooking.
1 quantity of chapati dough 1 Roll out the dough as for the chapati and divide into twelve balls of equal
Oil for deep-frying size. On a lightly floured surface, flatten the balls with your palms, then roll
them out into flat circles.
2 Heat plenty of oil in a wok until very hot. Place one circle of dough into the
wok and immediately start flicking hot oil over the top of it with a spatula so
that it swells up like a ball. This should only take a few seconds. Turn and
continue to deep-fry on the other side until golden brown. Repeat with the
rest of the dough. Serve immediately with a curry, such as Creamy Shrimp
Curry (page 75).
36
Tandoori Naan Leavened Flatbreads
The characteristic tear-drop shape of this bread is obtained by the way the dough droops as it cooks on the
wall of a tandoor.
4 cups (500 g) flour 1 Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl and make a well
½ teaspoon baking powder in the center. In another bowl, mix the yeast and lukewarm water together,
1 teaspoon salt then add the milk, sugar, egg and 2 tablespoons of the oil. Pour this into the
½ teaspoon yeast center of the sifted flour and knead, adding more water if necessary to form
2 tablespoons lukewarm water a soft dough. Add the remaining oil, knead again, then cover with a damp
1
/2cup (125 ml) milk cloth and place in a warm, dry place for 15 minutes to allow the dough to rise.
1 tablespoon sugar
2 Knead the dough again, cover and leave for another 2 to 3 hours. About
1 egg
half an hour before the naan is required, turn the oven to high heat. Divide
4 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji) the dough into eight balls and let them rest for 3 to 5 minutes. While the
dough is resting, sprinkle a baking sheet with the nigella seeds and place it
in the oven to heat.
3 Shape each ball of dough into an elongated oval shape by flattening and
stretching the dough. Turn on the broiler or grill, remove the baking sheet
from the oven and place 2 or 3 pieces of dough onto the preheated sheet.
Place the sheet several inches under the broiler and bake the naan until
they are puffed up and golden brown. Serve hot.
Makes 8 pieces Preparation time: 20 + 3 hours standing time Cooking time: 10 mins
Lucchi are similar to puri, except for the addition of semolina, for texture, and fennel for fragrance.
1 cup (125 g) flour 1 Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, add the semolina and fennel seeds
½ teaspoon salt and mix well. In another bowl, combine the oil and water and mix together
1 tablespoon fine semolina with the dry ingredients. Knead well to make a smooth dough, adding more
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, dry-roasted water if necessary. Cover the bowl with a cloth and set the dough aside for
in a skillet and ground 15 minutes.
1 tablespoon oil 2 Divide the dough into eight balls, flatten slightly, then roll them out in the
¼ cup (60 ml) water
shape of disks that are 4 to 5 in (10 to 12 cm) in diameter.
Ghee or oil for deep-frying
3 Heat the ghee or oil in a wok until very hot, then deep-fry the breads, one
at a time, flicking the hot ghee or oil over the top so that it puffs up. Turn and
cook on the other side until golden brown.
Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 15 mins standing time Cooking time: 10 mins
1 Place the rice and lentils into separate bowls, cover each with water and
soak overnight. Grind the rice and lentils separately in a blender or food
processor, adding a little water if necessary to obtain a smooth consistency.
2 Mix the ground rice and lentils together and leave at room temperature
overnight to ferment. The batter can now be refrigerated for up to 24 hours
until required. Stir the batter, adding salt and sufficient water to achieve the
consistency of a very thick cream.
3 Heat a nonstick skillet or griddle and rub with half an onion. Grease lightly
with a little of the oil and pour in a ladle (¼ cup/60 ml) of batter, smearing it
quickly with the back of the ladle to form a thin pancake that is 5 to 6 in (12
to 15 cm) in diameter. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the bottom is golden
brown and the top starts to set. Turn over and cook on the other side, then
serve hot with Fresh Coconut Chutney (page 25) and Yellow Lentil and
Tomato Stew (page 49).
Note: If desired, stuff the dosai with hot spiced potato, or with some
chicken masala spread for a non-vegetarian treat.
Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 10 mins + 24 hours soaking and fermenting time
Cooking time: 30 mins
40
Appam Rice Pancakes
3 cups (600 g) uncooked rice 1 Soak the rice and white lentils in water for 4 hours. Drain, then place in a
3 tablespoons white lentils (urad dal) blender or food processor and grind to a thick paste. Leave to ferment
2 cups (500 ml) coconut milk overnight.
½ teaspoon baking soda (bicarbon- 2 Add the coconut milk, baking soda and salt to the paste, and beat
ate of soda)
thoroughly to mix.
1 teaspoon salt
3 Grease a small heavy nonstick wok over low heat. Pour in a ladle of the
Oil, to grease
batter, grab both sides of the wok and swirl the batter so that it spreads
evenly in the shape of a circle, over the base of the wok. Cook on low heat
for 2 minutes, or until bubbles form on the surface. The edges should be
crispy and the center thick and moist. Serve with Fresh Coconut Chutney
(page 25) and Yellow Lentil and Tomato Stew (page 49).
These wonderfully light breads are normally flung out in circles, like a fisherman throwing his net (vecchu), until
paper thin. They can be hand-pulled like strudel for a similar result.
31/3cups (420 g) flour 1 Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour,
1 teaspoon salt pour in the beaten eggs and mix together, using your fingertips. Gradually
3 eggs, lightly beaten add the water and combine to make a very soft dough. Knead for 10 minutes.
1 cup (250 ml) water Divide the dough evenly into 10 balls, cover with a damp cloth and leave to
3
/4cup (180 ml) vegetable oil stand for 30 minutes.
2 Spread out each ball on a well-oiled tabletop, flatten with the palm of your
hand and pull the edges of the dough gently to stretch it out as wide and as
thin as possible. Fold the dough in half, brush the surface with oil and fold
in half again. Roll each piece of dough into a curled ball and leave to rest
for 15 minutes. Flatten each ball with the palm of your hand again, then use
a rolling pin to shape the dough into flat circles.
3 Oil a griddle or skillet and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the bottom turns
golden brown. Turn and cook on the other side for another 1 to 2 minutes.
Serve hot with Bean and Lentil Stew (page 49) or Mild Chicken Curry (page 81).
1½ cups (300 g) uncooked long- 1 Boil the rice in the water for 15 to 20 minutes until the grains are just
grain rice (preferably Basmati), tender. Drain thoroughly and set aside.
washed and drained
2 Dry-roast the Bengal gram and cashew nuts in a nonstick wok for 2 to 3
3 cups (750 ml) water
minutes until lightly toasted. Remove from the wok and set aside.
1 teaspoon Bengal gram (channa
3 Heat the oil in the wok and stir-fry the mustard seeds for 1 minute until the
dal) or yellow split peas
1 tablespoon split raw cashew nuts seeds begin to pop. Add the asafoetida, curry leaves, ginger, chilies, Bengal
1 tablespoon oil gram, cashews, lentils and turmeric. Continue to stir-fry, then add the lemon
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds juice, salt and water. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, toss in the rice and heat
Pinch of asafoetida powder through. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with a few poppadums,
10 curry leaves chutneys and Mint and Cucumber Raita (page 27).
½ teaspoon minced ginger
1
/ 2 green chili, minced Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 35 mins
2-3 dried chilies, broken into pieces
1 teaspoon white lentils (urad dal)
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1-1 1 / 2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon water
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro),
to garnish
11/3Cups(250 g) uncooked Basmati 1 Boil the rice in the water for 5 minutes, drain well, then spread out on a
or long-grain rice, washed and tray to cool.
drained 2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the mustard seeds, chilies, garlic and
3 cups (750 ml) water ginger for 1 minute until the seeds begin to pop. Add the white lentils,
3 tablespoons oil Bengal gram, curry leaves and turmeric and stir-fry until the lentils turn
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
golden. Add the asafoetida, salt, coconut and rice and mix thoroughly.
3-5 dried chilies, broken into pieces
3 Remove from the heat and set the rice aside for 1 hour to allow the flavors
2 green chilies, sliced
1-2 cloves garlic, minced to penetrate. Reheat and serve garnished with coriander and, if desired, a
½ tablespoon minced ginger few shreds of fresh coconut. Ideal with a few poppadums, chutneys and
1 teaspoon white lentils {urad dal) yogurt.
2 tablespoons Bengal gram (channa
dal) or yellow split peas Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 1 hour standing time Cooking time: 20 mins
10 curry leaves
Pinch of ground turmeric
Pinch of asafoetida powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup (50 g) freshly grated coconut,
dry-roasted in a skillet until golden
brown
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), to
garnish
44
Vegetable Pulao sabzi Pulao
Ideal for vegetarians, this dish can include additional vegetables such as green peas or small pieces of
cauliflower, if desired.
1 1 / 2 cups (300 g) uncooked long- 1 Wash the rice in a pot, leaving enough water to just cover the rice and
grain rice (preferably Basmati) soak for 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.
1 tablespoon ghee or butter 2 Heat the ghee in a wok and stir-fry the cumin, cinnamon, cardamom and
1 teaspoon cumin seeds cloves for 1 minute until they begin to crackle. Add the onion and stir-fry
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm) until golden, then add the yogurt, vegetables, saffron, turmeric, coriander
5 green cardamom pods, bruised
and 1 / 2 cup (125 ml) of water. Cover and simmer for 3 minutes.
7 cloves
3 Add 2½ cups (625 ml) of water, the drained rice and salt. Stir, bring to a
1 medium onion, diced
1 tablespoon yogurt boil, then simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes until the water is
2 medium tomatoes, diced completely absorbed.
1 cup (170g) diced, cooked potatoes 4 Cover the wok with a damp towel, then cover with the lid, and cook over
1 cup (100 g) finely sliced green very low heat for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, keep covered and
beans leave to stand for 15 to 20 minutes. Stir gently with a fork and serve
1 cup (120 g) diced carrot garnished with coriander leaves.
Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in 1
tablespoon of hot milk for 15 minutes Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 30 mins soaking time Cooking time: 45 mins
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground coriander
3 cups (750 ml) water
1½ teaspoons salt
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), to
garnish
The inspiration for Anglo-Indian "kedgeree," this is a simple mixture of rice and lentils.
1
/2cup (100 g) uncooked rice 1 Wash the rice and the lentils. If using yellow lentils or Bengal gram, sim-
3 tablespoons yellow lentils (tuvar dal) mer them in water until just soft, then drain. This step is not necessary if
or Bengal gram (channa dal) or using green mung beans.
green mung beans (moong dal) 2 Combine the lentils with the rice, cinnamon stick, cloves, cardamom
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm) pods, water and salt. Cover and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour until
2 cloves very soft. Add water to the pot if the mixture thickens too much.
2 cardamom pods, bruised
3 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet and stir-fry the cumin seeds, chilies,
1 1 / 2 cups (375 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt asafoetida and turmeric for 1 minute until they begin to crackle. Pour over
1 tablespoon oil the top of the cooked rice and serve hot.
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1-2 green chilies (optional) Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 1 hour
Pinch of asafoetida powder
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
46
Bean and Lentil Stew DaiMaharani
V2 cup (90 g) Black gram lentils (urad dal)
2 tablespoons (30 g) dried pinto or kidney beans
1 in (2½ cm) ginger, sliced
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon ghee or butter
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1-2 green chilies, slit lengthwise
2 medium tomatoes, diced
2 teaspoons Garam Masala (page 23)
½ cup (125 ml) cream
1 Rinse and soak the Black gram lentils and beans overnight. Combine the
lentils and beans in a saucepan with the ginger, salt and enough water to
cover. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 1 to 1 1 / 4 hours or
until just soft.
2 Heat the ghee or butter in a skillet, add the cumin seeds and chilies and
stir-fry for 1 minute until the cumin seeds crackle. Add to the cooked lentils
and beans, along with the diced tomatoes and half the Garam Masala.
Simmer for 10 minutes until the tomatoes soften.
3 Keep aside 1 tablespoon of the cream and stir the rest into the lentil stew.
Stir gently to allow the cream to heat through then serve in individual bowls
with a few drops of the remaining cream and a sprinkling of the Garam
Masala. Serve with some Tandoori Naan (page 39) or Paratha (page 43).
Serves 4 Preparation time: 10 mins + overnight soaking Cooking time: 1 hour 30 mins
1 Combine the lentils, water and turmeric in a pot and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes, partially covered,
or until the lentils are soft.
2 Add the diced tomatoes and onion and continue to simmer for another
15 minutes, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes turn pulpy. Add the sam-
bar powder, tamarind juice, curry leaves and salt and bring to a boil. Stir in
the coriander leaves and serve with Dosai (page 40).
Vegetables 49
Grilled Paneer Tikka with Mint and Coriander
½ lb (250 g) Homemade Paneer 1 Cut the paneer into squares about 3 / 4 in (2 cm) thick. With a knife, make
(page 27) 3 to 4 shallow cuts into one side of each paneer and gently push about ¼
2-3 tablespoons Mint Coriander teaspoon of the Mint Coriander Chutney into the shallow cuts.
Chutney (page 26)
2 Mix all the remaining ingredients together to make a marinade and rub
½ cup (125 g) hung yogurt (page 21)
onto the pieces of paneer. Leave to marinate for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
1 1 / 2 teaspoons crushed garlic
1 1 / 2 teaspoons crushed ginger 3 Skewer the paneer and bake in a very hot oven or under a very hot grill
1 teaspoon ground turmeric for 4 minutes, or until the paneer starts to brown. Serve with sliced raw
1 teaspoon ground white pepper onion and lemon wedges.
1 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
1 teaspoon salt Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins + 1 hour marinating time Cooking time: 10 mins
1 1 / 2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Sliced onions and lemon wedges,
to serve
Masala
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain)
2 tablespoons raw peanuts
2
/ 3 cup (150 ml) water
4-7 green chilies, sliced
2 tablespoons roughly chopped
coriander leaves (cilantro)
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon freshly grated coconut
or moistened unsweetened desic-
cated coconut
1
/ 2 tablespoon shaved palm sugar or
dark brown sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
Vegetables 51
Vegetarian Paneer Shashlik
½ lb (250 g) Homemade Paneer 1 Combine all the Marinade ingredients. Cut the paneer, peppers, onions
(page 27) and tomatoes into chunks of roughly equal size, add the pineapple and mix
2 green or red bell peppers thoroughly with the Marinade. Leave to marinate for 1 hour, then thread the
2 medium onions ingredients onto skewers.
2 medium tomatoes 2 Cook in a hot oven, under a grill, or over a hot barbecue for 7 to 8 minutes
1 cup (100 g) pineapple chunks
on each side, brushing with oil and turning halfway through cooking.
8 button mushrooms
Oil to brush the skewers
Serves 6 Preparation time: 20 mins + 1 hour marinating time Cooking time: 15 mins
Marinade
3 tablespoons yogurt
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
52
Spicy Chickpea Dumplings in Yogurt Sauce Kadhi Pakora
An ideal dish for vegetarians, this delicious Punjabi recipe consists of savory dumplings made from chickpea
flour or besan, served in a yogurt sauce.
3
/ 4 cup (100 g) chickpea flour or 1 First make the Yogurt Sauce by whisking the chickpea flour, yogurt, salt
besan and turmeric together. Place the mixture in a pot with water and simmer for
1 medium onion, diced 25 minutes, stirring from time to time.
1-2 green chilies, deseeded and 2 While the Yogurt Sauce is simmering, heat the oil in a wok or skillet over
minced low to medium heat and stir-fry the curry leaves, mustard seeds, dried
2 tablespoons minced ginger
chilies, cumin and fenugreek for 1 to 2 minutes until the spices crackle and
1 tablespoon minced coriander
become fragrant. Add the spices to the simmering pot of Yogurt Sauce.
leaves (cilantro)
1 teaspoon salt 3 Mix all the ingredients for the dumplings (except the oil) in a bowl,
1
/ 2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain) gradually adding water to form a sticky consistency Wet your hands, take a
1
/ 4 teaspoon baking soda (bicarbon- little of the dumpling mixture and shape the mixture into small bite-sized balls.
ate of soda) 4 Heat the oil until it is very hot and deep-fry the dumplings, a few at a time,
½ cup (125 ml) water for 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Drain and place the dumplings in the
Oil for deep-frying yogurt sauce and simmer for 3 minutes. Serve hot with rice.
Yogurt Sauce Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 35 mins
2 tablespoons chickpea flour or
besan
1 cup (250 g) yogurt
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
3 cups (750 ml) water
2 tablespoons oil
10 curry leaves
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
3 dried chilies
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
54
Spiced Chickpeas Pindi Channa
1 cup (200 g) chickpeas 1 Soak the chickpeas for 1 hour, then drain. Discard the liquid. Place the
1 tea bag chickpeas, tea bag and water into a pot and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes
6 cups (1 1 / 2 liters) water until the chickpeas are tender. Drain, reserving 1 cup (250 ml) of the
2-3 tablespoons oil cooking liquid.
2 medium onions, diced
2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the onion until golden. Add the garlic, gin-
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
ger and chilies and continue stir-frying for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes,
2 tablespoons minced ginger
coriander, cumin, turmeric and red pepper, and stir-fry over low heat for 5 to
2 green chilies, sliced
3 medium tomatoes, diced 10 minutes until the oil separates.
2 teaspoons ground coriander 3 Add the chickpeas, the reserved cooking liquid, salt and half the coriander
1½ teaspoons ground cumin leaves. Simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes until the liquid has been
½ teaspoon ground turmeric absorbed, then add a pinch of Garam Masala and stir through. Serve with
1 teaspoon ground red pepper the remaining Garam Masala, coriander leaves and ginger shreds sprinkled
1 teaspoon salt on top.
2 teaspoons minced coriander leaves
(cilantro) Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 1 hour Cooking time: 1 hour 20 mins
1
/4 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
Shredded ginger, to garnish
1 cup (200 g) dried pinto or kidney 1 Rinse and soak the beans overnight. Drain, then simmer the beans in the
beans water for 30 to 45 minutes until just tender. Drain, reserving 1 cup (250 ml)
5 cups (1 1 / 4 liters) water of the cooking liquid.
2-3 tablespoons oil 2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the cardamoms and onion until golden.
4 green cardamom pods, bruised Add the garlic, ginger and chili paste, and stir-fry for 5 minutes until the oil
2 black cardamom pods, bruised
separates. Stir in the ground coriander, cumin and turmeric, and stir-fry over
3 medium onions, diced
very low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and continue stirring for
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
1 teaspoon grated ginger another 2 minutes before adding the beans, reserved cooking liquid, chilies,
1 teaspoon chili paste or minced half the coriander leaves and the salt.
fresh chilies 3 Simmer uncovered until the beans are soft. Add half of the Garam Masala
2½ teaspoons ground coriander and continue simmering for 5 minutes. Serve with the remaining coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin leaves and Garam Masala.
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2-3 medium tomatoes, diced Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 15 mins + overnight soaking time
2 green chilies, sliced Cooking time: 1 hour 20 mins
2 tablespoons minced coriander
leaves (cilantro)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
Vegetables 57
Mixed Vegetables with Yogurt and Fresh Coconut Aviai
2 cups (300 g) cubed pumpkin or 1 Wash the vegetables and cut into small cubes or strips. Place the vegetables
any other firm vegetable like daikon in a pot with just enough water to cover, and simmer uncovered for about
radish or squash 10 minutes until half-cooked. Add the yogurt, 2 teaspoons cumin and the
2 medium potatoes, peeled turmeric, simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, then add the grated coconut, 1 tablespoon
2 medium carrots, peeled cumin, chilies and salt. Mix well and leave over low heat.
1 cup (180 g) green beans, cut into
2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the mustard seeds and curry leaves for 1
lengths
minute until the spices begin to crackle and become fragrant. Mix the mustard
1 cup (250 g) whipped yogurt (page
21) seeds and curry leaves into the vegetables, stir well and serve immediately.
2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon
ground cumin Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 20 mins
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 cups (200 g) freshly grated
coconut, or moistened unsweet-
ened desiccated coconut
2-3 green chilies, sliced and deseeded
1-1½ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
10 curry leaves
Vegetables 59
Tandoori Baked Cauliflower and
Stuffed Bell Peppers
The popularity of tandoor-baked dishes is so great in India that new
recipes are being developed all the time, including this delicious and
simple vegetable dish.
Marinade
11/2cups (375 g) hung yogurt (page 21)
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
1½ teaspoons grated ginger
1 1 / 2 tablespoons chili paste or minced fresh chilies
½ teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
1½ tablespoons oil
2 teaspoons malt vinegar
1 Cut the tops off the bell peppers, reserve the tops and scrape out the
seeds from the inside of the bell peppers. Make the Spicy Paneer Filling by
combining the ingredients together, then fill the bell peppers with the Spicy
Paneer Filling. Set aside.
2 To prepare the Marinade, combine all the ingredients, then set aside.
3 Divide the cauliflower into florets, cut off the tougher part of the stem, and
prick the thick tender stems with a fork to allow the seasonings to penetrate.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and add the cauliflower, vinegar, salt and
turmeric. Boil the cauliflower for 5 to 10 minutes until the cauliflower is just
tender, then drain and allow to cool.
4 Coat the cauliflower and stuffed bell peppers with the Marinade, mix well
and leave to marinate for 1½ hours or overnight.
5 Place the cauliflower and stuffed bell peppers under a very hot grill or
broiler for 5 to 6 minutes until tender and golden brown. Sprinkle with mace
and Chaat Masala before serving hot. If desired, return the reserved tops of
the bell peppers to the body of the bell peppers before serving.
60
Spiced Potatoes in Yogurt Dum Aloo
1 1 / 2 lbs (700 g) baby new potatoes, 1 Parboil the potatoes for 7 to 10 minutes. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry
halved the potatoes for about 5 minutes or until golden. Drain and set aside, leav-
3 tablespoons oil
ing the oil in the wok. Stir-fry the onion in the reserved oil until browned,
2 onions, diced
3 then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
/ 4 cup (190 g) yogurt
4 black cardamom pods 2 Dry-roast the cardamom, fennel and cinnamon in a nonstick wok, stirring
1 teaspoon fennel seeds continuously for 1 to 2 minutes until the spices are fragrant. Drain the
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm) soaking cashews or melon seeds, then place in a blender with the dry-
2 tablespoons unsalted, roasted roasted spices and grind to a paste, adding 1 teaspoon of water if necessary
cashew nuts or shelled melon Set aside.
seeds, soaked in water 3 Stir-fry the ginger and garlic for 2 minutes in the wok used for frying the
1 1 / 2 tablespoons minced ginger potatoes and onion, adding more oil if necessary. Add the coriander, cumin,
4 cloves garlic, minced turmeric and red pepper and stir for 1 minute. Leave on low heat while you
1½ teaspoons ground coriander whisk the yogurt. Add the whisked yogurt, cardamom-nut paste, potatoes,
1 teaspoon ground cumin
water and salt. Simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes until the potatoes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 are tender. Stir in the browned onions and serve.
/ 2 teaspoon ground red pepper
1
/2 cup (125 ml) water
1 teaspoon salt Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 30 mins
Vegetables 63
S p i c e d Okra Bhindi Bharwan
12 oz (350 g) okra (ladies' fingers), 1 Combine the Spice Mixture ingredients. Cut the stalk off each okra and
washed and dried make a lengthwise slit. Fill each okra with the Spice mixture and set aside.
3 tablespoons oil 2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the cumin seeds for 1 to 2 minutes until
1 teaspoon cumin seeds they begin to crackle and are aromatic. Add the onion, chilies and ginger
1 medium onion, diced
and stir-fry until the onion turns transparent. Stir in the asafoetida.
2 green chilies, deseeded and
3 Add the diced tomato to the wok, simmer over low heat and stir for 5 to
minced
3 10 minutes until the tomato turns pulpy. Add the stuffed okra and continue
/ 4 tablespoon minced ginger
Pinch of asafoetida powder to simmer, covered, for 5 to 8 minutes or until tender and well-coated with
1 medium tomato, diced the sauce. Serve with steamed rice.
64
Fish Pate in Pastry Blanket Thandi Ajwaini Macchi
Fish goes particularly well with carom, a spice that comes from the
same family as cumin and parsley. This elegant recipe from Hyderabad,
where European chefs were once employed by the aristocracy, calls for
expensive seasonings such as saffron and pistachios and prepares the
pate in a European-style, wrapped in pastry.
Fish Pate
2 tablespoons whipping cream
Pinch of saffron threads
2 lbs (1 kg) white fish fillets (preferably freshwater), cubed
2 eggs
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain)
2 tablespoons minced coriander leaves (cilantro)
2 tablespoons minced spring onions
1
/ 2 teaspoon salt
1
/ 4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 tablespoon shelled pistachio nuts, skins removed and coarsely ground
Egg wash (1 egg, beaten with 2 teaspoons water)
Pastry
32/3 cups (450 g) flour
Pinch of salt
4 oz (125 g) ghee or butter, cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons oil
1
/ 2 cup (125 ml) iced water
1 To make the Fish Pate, heat the cream gently and soak the saffron.
Remove from the heat and set aside. Place all the Pate ingredients except
the pistachios, saffron and egg wash in a blender or food processor and
blend until smooth. Place in a large mixing bowl and stir in the pistachios
and saffron cream. Mix well and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
2 Prepare the Pastry by sifting the flour and salt into a large bowl. Using a
knife, cut the butter into the flour until it is fairly evenly blended, then use
your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour until it resembles bread-
crumbs. Sprinkle the oil over the flour mixture and use a knife to mix it in.
Add a little bit of the iced water and use your fingertips to bring the dough
together. Continue adding the iced water until the dough comes away from
the bowl in one piece without sticking. Divide the dough into two portions.
3 Using a rolling pin, roll out one portion of the dough so that it is very thin.
Shape half of the Fish Pate mixture into a cylinder, or triangle if preferred,
and place in the center of the rolled pastry. Wrap the pastry around the Pate
and apply egg wash on all sides with a brush. Repeat with the other portion
of dough and Fish Pate. Decorate the tops of the pastries with trimmings of
dough and brush with egg wash. Bake in a 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4) oven
for 30 minutes. Cool, then chill in the refrigerator. Cut into thin slices and
serve with Mint Coriander Chutney (page 26) and lemon wedges as an
appetizer, or with a salad as a light meal.
66
Bengali Fish Curry MacherJhoi
1-1½ lbs (500-750 g) white fish fillets 1 Pat the fish dry. Combine the salt, turmeric and ginger and coat the fish
1 teaspoon salt fillets well. Marinate for 5 minutes, then cut the fillets into large pieces.
1 teaspoon ground turmeric 2 Heat the oil in a wok and deep-fry the fish pieces for 5 to 7 minutes until
2 tablespoons minced ginger golden brown and cooked through. Set the fish aside, reserving 1 tablespoon
Mustard oil or vegetable oil for deep- of oil. In the same wok, stir-fry the Masala spices for 1 minute until the
frying
seeds begin to crackle. Add the potato wedges and sliced eggplant and
1 large potato, cut into wedges
continue to stir-fry until well-coated with the spices.
1 eggplant, sliced
1 large tomato, diced 3 Place the potato-eggplant mixture and the water in a pot and simmer for
1½ cups (375 ml) water 10 to 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Add the fish pieces and
2-3 green chilies, slit lengthwise and chilies and heat through. Serve with plain rice.
deseeded
Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 25 mins
Masala
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1
/ 2 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon black mustard seeds
1
/ 4 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
¼ teaspoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
68
Crispy Fish Morsels Machchi Amritsari
1 lb (500 g) white fish fillets 1 Prepare the Batter by heating the oil in a wok and mixing in the chickpea
Oil for deep-frying flour. Stir for 1 minute, remove from the heat and allow to cool. Mix in the
1
/ 2 teaspoon Chaat Masala (page 23) rest of the Batter ingredients.
Pinch of Garam Masala (page 23) 2 Cut the fish into large pieces, dip them into the Batter and allow to stand
for 20 minutes. Heat the oil in a wok and fry the fish for 3 minutes until crisp
Batter
on the outside and cooked on the inside. Sprinkle with Chaat Masala and
1½ tablespoons oil
Garam Masala and serve hot.
1 cup (120 g) chickpea flour or besan
1 egg, lightly beaten
1
/ 2 teaspoon crushed garlic Note: The Batter can be made up to 1 day in advance, then kept refriger-
½ teaspoon minced ginger ated. Make sure you stir it well before using.
½ teaspoon ground red pepper
1 teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon ground turmeric Serves 4 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 5 mins
1 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain),
rubbed slightly with the hand
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Chaat Masala (page 23)
1 tablespoon minced coriander leaves
(cilantro)
1-2 green chilies, deseeded and
minced
2 teaspoons lemon juice
½ cup (125 ml) cold water
Seafood 69
Fish in C o c o n u t Milk Meen Molee
4 whole small fish, weighing about 1 Clean the fish and cut slits on both sides to allow the spices to penetrate.
12 oz (350 g) each, or 1 1 / 2 lbs (750 g) Combine the turmeric, red pepper and salt and marinate the fish for 5 min-
white fish steaks utes. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok and stir-fry the fish on both
1
/ 2 teaspoon ground turmeric sides for 5 to 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
1 teaspoon ground red pepper
2 In the same wok, stir-fry the ginger, garlic, green chilies, cardamoms and
1 teaspoon salt
onion. Add the ground coriander and the thin coconut milk and stir well.
31/2 tablespoons oil
3 Allow the milk to heat through, cool slightly, then blend to a smooth paste in
/ 4 in (2 cm) ginger, sliced
6-8 cloves garlic a blender or food processor.
3-4 green chilies, slit lengthwise and 3 Line the bottom of a wide, thick-bottomed skillet with the banana leaf;
deseeded this is optional, but adds a delicate flavor to the curry. Place the curry leaves
6 green cardamom pods, bruised and fish on the banana leaf and pour the blended sauce over it. Bring to
2 medium onions, sliced a boil uncovered and simmer over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes until the fish
2 teaspoons ground coriander is cooked. Add the coconut cream and heat through. Do not allow the
1 1 / 2 cups (375 ml) thin coconut milk coconut cream to boil.
Banana leaf (optional) 4 Heat ½ tablespoon of oil in a wok and stir-fry the mustard seeds for 1
30 curry leaves minute until they begin to pop. Pour the mustard seeds over the fish and
½ cup (125 ml) coconut cream or 1
serve with lime or lemon juice squeezed over the top.
cup (250 ml) thick coconut milk
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 mins Cooking time: 20 mins
1 lime or lemon, to serve
70
Curried Crabs with Coconut Nandu Kan
This dish comes from Mangalore, on the southwest coast, an area
renowned for its appreciation of both fish and coconuts. This succulent
curry uses coconut milk plus freshly grated coconut for a wonderfully
rich sauce.
1 Boil the crabs in a large pot of water for 2 to 3 minutes, drain, then cool.
Remove the shell of each crab by holding the bottom of the crab in one
hand and using the other hand to pull the shell up and off its body. Set
aside the shell and discard the feathery gills on either side of the body and
any green or spongy grey matter. Rinse and scrub the shell thoroughly, then
drain. Quarter the crab and crack the claws so the flavors can penetrate.
2 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the mustard seeds for 1 to 2 minutes until
the seeds begin to pop. Add the curry leaves, bay leaves and green chilies
and stir-fry gently for 1 minute. Sprinkle in the asafoetida and add the onion,
garlic and ginger. Stir-fry until the onion is transparent. Stir in the turmeric
and red pepper and continue stirring for 1 minute before adding the crab
pieces, claws, shells and tomatoes.
3 Cover the wok and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the
coconut milk and salt and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. Mix in the
freshly grated coconut, if using, and serve with plain steamed rice.
Seafood 73
S p i c y Fried Fish Macher Kalia
1 lb (500 g) white fish cutlets 1 To prepare the Masala, grind the ingredients to a paste in a blender or
½ teaspoon ground turmeric food processor and set aside.
1 teaspoon salt 2 Combine the turmeric and salt and sprinkle on the fish cutlets. Marinate
4 tablespoons mustard or vegetable for 5 minutes. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the fish for 5 to 7 minutes
oil
until golden. Remove, drain and set the fish aside. Reserve 2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
of oil from the wok.
2 green chilies, slit lengthwise
3 Using the reserved oil, stir-fry the mustard seeds and chilies for 2 minutes.
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin Add the coriander, cumin, red pepper and Masala paste and continue
½-1 teaspoon ground red pepper stirring for about 2 minutes until fragrant. Mix in the yogurt and stir for about
1
/2cup (125 g) yogurt 5 minutes until the oil starts to separate. Add the fish to the wok and simmer
over low heat for 5 to 7 minutes until tender.
Masala
2 medium onions, sliced Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 25 mins
½ in (1 cm) ginger
4 cloves garlic
3 tomatoes, blanched, peeled and
quartered
Seafood 75
C h i c k e n Tikka MurghTikka
1 Combine the garlic, ginger, chili paste, oil, lemon juice, salt, Garam
Masala and red food coloring, if using. Rub the marinade thoroughly onto
the chicken pieces. Mix with the yogurt and leave to marinate in the
refrigerator for 4 hours (preferably overnight).
2 Thread the chicken onto skewers and brush with additional oil. Place
under a very hot grill or broiler for 6-8 minutes, turning once, until cooked
and golden brown. Serve with Mint Coriander Chutney (page 26), onion
rings, lemon wedges and Indian bread such as Tandoori Naan (page 39).
76
Tandoori Chicken Murgh Tandoori
Originally from the northwest of India, food baked in a tandoor or clay oven, heated with charcoal, is very
popular in restaurants all over the country. Marinated chicken cooked in a tandoor achieves an unrivaled
succulence and flavor; even when using an electric or gas oven, the result is very good.
2 spring chickens, each weighing 1 Make deep cuts on the inside (if using whole chickens) and the outside of
around 1 1 / 4 lbs (650 g), or 3 lbs (1 1 / 2 the chickens or chicken pieces, to allow the Marinade to penetrate.
kgs) of chicken pieces (legs and Combine the chili paste, red pepper, lemon juice and salt, and rub onto the
breasts) chickens. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
1 tablespoon chili paste or minced
2 Make the Marinade by combining all the ingredients, then rub the
fresh chilies
Marinade onto the chickens. Save some Marinade to rub inside the chest
½ teaspoon ground red pepper
cavity. Marinate the chickens for 3 to 4 hours or overnight.
¼ cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt 3 Preheat the oven to high heat. Place the chickens on a wire rack in a
1 teaspoon Chaat Masala (page 23) roasting dish, baste with a little melted butter and roast for about 15
Melted butter, to baste minutes until the chickens are brownish-black and cooked. Alternatively,
roast on a barbeque for 15 minutes. Sprinkle with Chaat Masala and serve
Marinade with Mint Coriander Chutney (page 26), onion rings and lemon wedges.
2 cups (500 g) hung yogurt (page 21)
1½ tablespoons chili paste or
minced fresh chilies (optional)
Note: The chickens can be marinated as early as 24 hours in advance.
1 tablespoon crushed garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger
Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 4 hours 30 mins marinating time
1 tablespoon oil
Cooking time: 15 mins
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons Garam Masala (page 23)
Few drops of red food coloring
(optional)
78
Mild Chicken Curry Murgh Korma
2 medium onions, diced 1 To make the Nut Paste, first soak the poppy seeds in water and simmer
4-6 cloves garlic, sliced for 30 minutes. Place the poppy seeds and the remaining ingredients in a
1½ in (4 cm) ginger, sliced blender or food processor and grind to a paste, adding water if necessary,
¼ cup (60 ml) water then set aside.
3 oz (90 g) ghee or butter
2 Stir-fry the onion, garlic and ginger in a nonstick wok until the onion is
4 green cardamom pods, bruised
transparent and very slightly browned. Place in a blender or food processor
1 black cardamom pod, bruised
1 cinnamon stick (½ in/1 cm) with ¼ cup (60 ml) water and blend to a paste. Set aside.
2 cloves 3 Heat the ghee in a wok, stir-fry the cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay
2 bay leaves leaves for a few minutes, then add the cumin, coriander and onion paste.
½ teaspoon ground cumin Continue stir-frying over very low heat, stirring continuously for 5 minutes
1
/2 teaspoon ground coriander until the oil separates. Take care that the mixture does not change color.
1 cup (250 g) whipped yogurt (page 21) Add the yogurt and continue to stir for 15 minutes.
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 4 Sprinkle in the nutmeg and pepper, add the chicken pieces and simmer
1½ teaspoons ground white pepper uncovered over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes until the chicken is tender.
1½ lbs (750 g) boneless chicken,
Add the Nut Paste and simmer gently for 3 to 5 minutes. Mix in 1 table-
cut into bite-sized pieces
spoon of the cream, salt and half of the Garam Masala, stirring well.
2 tablespoons cream
1 teaspoon salt Remove from the heat and serve with the remaining cream and a sprinkling
1 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23) of Garam Masala and coriander leaves.
1 teaspoon minced coriander leaves
(cilantro), to garnish Serves 4 Preparation time: 1 hour 20 mins Cooking time: 45 mins
Nut paste
3 tablespoons white poppy seeds,
3 tablespoons unsalted, shelled melon
seeds, soaked in water
3 tablespoons chironji nuts or
blanched almonds
3 tablespoons raw cashew nuts,
soaked in water
1 portion of cooked Tandoori Chicken 1 Cut the cooked Tandoori chicken into large pieces, leaving the bones in.
(page 78) Set aside.
2 cinnamon sticks (1½ in/4 cm each) 2 Place the whole spices, tomatoes, onion, ginger, garlic and chilies in a pot
3 black cardamom pods, bruised
and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the
3 green cardamom pods, bruised
tomatoes are soft and pulpy. Remove the whole spices from the pot and
3 cloves
2 bay leaves puree the rest of the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Strain,
1 can (16 oz/450 g) skinned, diced return the puree to the pot and add the butter, red pepper, if using, sugar
tomatoes and salt. Simmer over low heat until thickened.
2 medium onions, quartered 3 Add half the cream and the chicken pieces and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir
3
/ 4 in (2 cm) ginger, sliced in all but 1 tablespoon of the remaining cream and half the Garam Masala.
8-10 cloves garlic Mix in the bell pepper and serve sprinkled with the remaining cream and
8 green chilies, sliced Garam Masala.
8 oz (250 g) butter
2 teaspoons ground red pepper Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 35 mins
(optional)
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (125 ml) cream
1
/2 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
1 small green bell pepper, finely diced
2 lbs (1 kg) boneless chicken 1 Cut the chicken into large'pieces, sprinkle with salt and set aside.
1 teaspoon salt 2 Heat the ghee In a wok, stir-fry the cinnamon, cardamom and cloves for 1
2 tablespoons ghee or butter minute, then add the pureed onions, garlic and ginger. Continue to stir-fry
1 cinnamon stick (3 in/8 cm) until the mixture begins to take on some color. Add the yogurt and saffron
4 green cardamom pods, bruised
and leave to simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3 whole cloves
3 Add the chicken pieces, simmer for 5 minutes, then mix in the cashew nut
8 oz (250 g) onions, peeled, boiled,
paste. Simmer for about 10 minutes until the chicken is tender. Add the
then pureed in a blender
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
cream, heat through and garnish with coriander leaves.
2 teaspoons minced ginger
1 cup (250 g) whipped yogurt (page 21) Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 20 mins Cooking time: 30 mins
Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in 1
tablespoon warm milk for 15 minutes
2
/ 3 cup (75 g) unsalted, roasted
cashew nuts, soaked in water and
ground to a paste
1
/ 2 cup (125 ml) cream
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro),
to garnish
2 tablespoons oil
2 medium onions, sliced
1 green chili, sliced
½ teaspoon crushed garlic
1
/ 2 in (1 cm) ginger
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1
/ 4 teaspoon ground red pepper
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper
1
/ 4 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
2-3 medium tomatoes, quartered
¼ cup (60 ml) water
1 lb (500 g) boneless chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
5-6 dried apricots, halved (optional)
2 tablespoons cream
1
/ 4 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23)
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), to garnish
Potato Straws
2 lbs (1 kg) potatoes, peeled and finely shredded
Oil for deep-frying
Salt
1 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the onion until golden brown. Add the
chili, garlic, ginger, turmeric, red pepper, white pepper, cumin and cinnamon
and continue to stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for
about 5 minutes until the tomatoes turn pulpy Place into a blender or food
processor with the water and blend to a smooth paste. Set aside.
2 Stir-fry the chicken in the wok for 5 minutes, add the onion-tomato paste,
salt, sugar and enough water to cover the chicken. Simmer uncovered for
about 5 minutes until the oil begins to separate from the gravy. Add the
dried apricots and cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken is tender. Stir
in the cream before serving.
3 When the curry is ready, prepare the Potato Straws. Dry the shredded
potatoes, heat the oil in a wok until it is very hot and deep-fry the shredded
potatoes until crisp and golden. Drain and sprinkle the Potato Straws with
salt just before serving to prevent them from becoming soft. When serving,
sprinkle the curry with Garam Masala and coriander leaves, and top with
the Potato Straws (salli).
1 1 / 2 lbs (750 g) pork, preferably with 1 Cut 1 tablespoon of fat from the pork and set aside.
some fat, cubed 2 Dry-roast the cardamom, cinnamon and mustard seeds in a nonstick wok
4 green cardamom pods or skillet for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring continuously until fragrant. Cool, then
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm) place in a blender or food processor with the garlic, red pepper, chilies,
1½ teaspoons mustard seeds peppercorns, ginger, cumin seeds and vinegar, and grind to a thick paste.
8 cloves garlic Coat the pork well with the paste and marinate for 30 minutes.
2-3 teaspoons ground red pepper
3 Fry the tablespoon of pork fat until the lard is rendered, then add the
4 green chilies
onion and stir-fry until golden brown. Add the pork (including any marinade)
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 in (21/2 cm) ginger, sliced and salt, and simmer over low to medium heat for about 30 minutes until
2 teaspoons cumin seeds the pork is tender and the gravy is thick. Pour off the excess oil, then add
1 cup (250 ml) coconut vinegar the sugar and feni or brandy. Serve hot.
2 medium onions, diced
½ teaspoon salt
Note: If you cannot obtain coconut vinegar, use rice vinegar or cider vine-
1 teaspoon sugar
gar diluted 1 part water to 4 parts vinegar.
2 tablespoons feni or brandy
86
Spicy Hot Lamb Curry Maas Koihapuri
2 tablespoons oil 1 Prepare the Masala by dry-roasting all the ingredients except the coconut
4 medium onions, sliced in a nonstick wok over low heat, stirring continuously for 1 minute until
1 teaspoon minced ginger aromatic. Cool, then grind to a powder in a blender or mortar and pestle.
3 teaspoons crushed garlic Add the coconut and pulse the blender a few times to mix well. Set aside.
3 teaspoons chili paste or minced
2 Heat the oil in the wok and stir-fry the onion until golden brown. Add the
fresh chilies
ginger, garlic and chili paste, stirring for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant, then
1 teaspoon ground coriander
add the coriander and turmeric. Continue to stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes.
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 lb (500 g) boneless lamb, cubed 3 Place the lamb in the wok and stir-fry until browned. Add the Masala
4 medium tomatoes, diced paste, stir for 15 minutes, then add the diced tomatoes and salt. Stir in the
1 teaspoon salt water and simmer over low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally,
1 1 / 2 cups (375 ml) water until the meat is tender. Garnish with fried chilies and shredded ginger, and
3-4 whole dried chilies, fried in oil, serve with white rice.
to garnish
Finely shredded ginger, to garnish Serves 4 Preparation time: 25 mins Cooking time: 45 mins
Masala
1½ tablespoons coriander seeds
1½ teaspoons ground mace
4 cloves
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm)
3 dried red chilies, broken into pieces
1 cup (100 g) freshly grated coconut
Baby lamb not more than two or three months old is normally used for
this succulent dish, but if baby lamb is not available, a larger leg of
lamb can be used. The cooked meat should be so tender that it can be
served with a spoon.
Marinade
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1 teaspoon chili paste or minced fresh chilies
1 tablespoon oil
Masala
4-5 medium onions, sliced
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
1 teaspoon minced ginger
1 teaspoon chili paste or minced fresh chilies
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3
/ 4 teaspoon ground turmeric
Whole Spices
3 cloves
4 green cardamom pods, bruised
3 black cardamom pods, bruised
2 cinnamon sticks (2 in/5 cm each)
2 whole star anise
1 bay leaf
1 To make the Marinade, combine all the ingredients together. Make deep
cuts in the lamb so the spices can penetrate, then rub the Marinade over
the lamb and leave to marinate for 3 to 4 hours (preferably overnight).
2 To prepare the Masala, place all the ingredients in a blender or food
processor and grind to a paste. Heat the oil in an ovenproof casserole dish
or pot just large enough to hold the lamb leg. Stir-fry the Whole Spices for 2
to 3 minutes, add the Masala paste and continue to stir-fry for about 5 min-
utes until the oil separates. Add the tomato paste, salt and water and allow
to heat through. Add the lamb leg. Make sure the casserole dish or pot is
covered with a well-fitting lid.
3 Cook over very low heat or in a 300°F (150°C, gas mark 2) oven for about
2 hours until the lamb is tender, adding more water if the liquid evaporates
too quickly. Turn once or twice while the lamb is cooking. Before serving,
place the cooked lamb under a very hot grill or broiler for a few minutes,
turning, so that the sauce coating dries slightly. Serve with Indian bread
such as Tandoori Naan (page 39) or Chapati (page 36), and rice.
90
Goan Spiced Pork and Liver sorpotei
The Goan style of cooking pork involves vinegar and spices as preserv-
atives. Traditional Sorpotei used every part of the pig: the liver, kidneys,
tongue, ears and blood. Each household has its own version and the
following is an authentic family recipe. Feni, a liquor made from cashews,.
is used in Goa, but brandy can be substituted.
1 Place the pork, water, salt and turmeric in a pot and boil for 15 minutes.
Remove the pork, reserve the liquid and cut the pork into bite-sized cubes.
2 Heat a dry wok and stir-fry the meat until browned (the lard that is
rendered from the pork fat should be sufficient to cook it). Drain and set
aside, leaving the lard in the wok.
3 Place the red pepper, cinnamon, Garam Masala, peppercorns, cloves and
cardamom pods in a blender or food processor and grind to make a thick
paste, adding vinegar if necessary.
4 Reheat the lard in the wok and stir-fry the garlic and onions until they are
browned. Add the diced tomatoes and cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the
tomatoes are pulpy. Add the ground paste and liver and cook for 10
minutes, then add the pork and continue to cook for another 2 minutes, stir-
ring occasionally. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, feni and reserved liquid to make
a thick gravy. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until tender, stirring occasionally
Season with salt. The resultant dish should have a curry-like gravy.
Note: If you cannot obtain coconut vinegar, use rice or cider vinegar, dilut-
ed 1 part water to 4 parts vinegar. This dish can be made at least two or
three days in advance. Goans insist it tastes better after a few days, when
the flavors have had a chance to develop and permeate the meat.
92
Lamb Tikka Kebabs Maas Ke Tikka
2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 Dry-roast the cumin seeds in a nonstick wok, stirring continuously for 1 to
1 lb (500 g) boneless lamb, cubed 2 minutes until fragrant. Allow to cool, then grind to a powder in a blender
1½ cups (375 g) hung yogurt (page 21) or mortar and pestle.
2½ teaspoons chili paste or minced 2 Prick the lamb cubes all over with a fork. Mix the ground cumin and the
fresh chilies
remaining ingredients (except the oil for basting) together and combine with
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
the lamb, coating well. Leave to marinate in the refrigerator for a minimum
1 teaspoon grated ginger
of 4 hours.
½ teaspoon ground mace
1
/2 teaspoon Garam Masala (page 23) 3 Thread the meat onto skewers and cook under a very hot grill or broiler
1 teaspoon salt for 3 to 4 minutes. Brush the meat with oil, turn, and grill on the other side.
1½ tablespoons oil Serve hot with Tandoori Naan (page 39).
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Oil, to baste Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins + 4 hours marinating time
Cooking time: 10 mins
1 lb (500 g) lean lamb, cubed 1 Prepare the Cashew Almond Gravy first. Soak the cashews and almonds
3 green chilies, sliced in hot water, for 10 minutes, covered, then grind to a paste in a blender or
1 tablespoon minced coriander food processor.
leaves (cilantro) 2 Heat the ghee in a wok and stir-fry the onion until golden brown. Add the
1 tablespoon minced ginger garlic, ginger, turmeric and red pepper and continue stirring for about 5
1
/ 4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 minutes until the oil separates, then add the tomatoes and cook until they
/ 4 teaspoon ground mace
become pulpy. Add the yogurt and nut paste and simmer over low heat for
Pinch of Garam Masala (page 23)
1½ teaspoons salt 5 to 10 minutes until the oil separates. If a creamier sauce is desired, puree
2 tablespoons ghee or olive oil the sauce in a blender or food processor then return to the wok. Leave the
1 tablespoon minced mint leaves Cashew Almond Gravy to simmer over low heat while preparing the meatballs.
Garam Masala, to garnish 3 In a large bowl, combine the lamb with the chilies, coriander, ginger,
spices and ½ teaspoon of salt, leaving the ghee aside. Place the sea-
Cashew Almond Gravy soned meat in a food processor and process until very finely ground. Shape
2 tablespoons raw cashew nuts into bite-sized balls. Heat the ghee or butter in another wok and stir-fry the
2 tablespoons blanched almonds meatballs until browned. Drain the meatballs of half the ghee.
1 heaped tablespoon ghee or butter 4 Place the meatballs in the Cashew Almond Gravy, cover and simmer for 5
3 medium onions, diced
3 to 7 minutes, stirring gently from time to time. Stir in half the mint leaves and
/ 4 teaspoon crushed garlic
3 1 tablespoon of salt. Before serving, sprinkle with the remaining mint leaves
/ 4 teaspoon minced ginger
and Garam Masala.
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground red pepper
3 medium tomatoes, quartered Serves 4 Preparation time: 45 mins Cooking time: 25 mins
1
/4cup (60 g) whipped yogurt (page 21)
94
F r a g r a n t L a m b Biryani Hyderabad!" Kacchi Biryani
12 oz (350 g) boneless lamb, cubed 1 To make the Marinade, combine all the ingredients. Coat the meat well
12 oz (350 g) lamb with bone, cubed and leave to marinate for at least 3 hours.
2½ tablespoons ghee or butter 2 Prepare the Rice by placing the spices and seasonings into a large pot of
1 teaspoon cumin seeds water and bringing to a boil. Add the long-grain rice and boil rapidly for 3
7 cloves
minutes until just half-cooked, then drain thoroughly. Discard the whole
1 cinnamon stick (3 in/8 cm)
spices and set the Rice aside.
3 bay leaves
3 Heat the ghee over moderate heat in a wok or casserole dish. Stir-fry the
2 black cardamom pods, bruised
7 green cardamom pods, bruised spices for 1 to 2 minutes until they begin to crackle, then add the chilies
3-4 green chilies, slit lengthwise and onion and stir-fry until the onion is lightly browned. Add the salt and the
2 medium onions, sliced marinated meat, stir a few times, then pour the Rice over the meat. Heat the
1 teaspoon salt wok over moderate heat for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat to as low as
possible and leave to cook for 45 minutes before serving.
Marinade
1 cup (250 g) hung yogurt (page 21)
½ cup (125 ml) lemon juice Note: Vegetarians can use firm tofu in place of the meat, but the tofu
1 teaspoon grated ginger needs to be scored first before marinating. Reduce the cooking time in
2 teaspoons crushed garlic step 3 to 15 minutes, or until the tofu is cooked.
2 teaspoons Garam Masala (page 23)
1 1 / 2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons ground red pepper Serves 4 Preparation time: 45 mins + 3 hours marinating time
1
/ 2 teaspoon ground turmeric Cooking time: 1 hour
½ cup (25 g) fresh mint leaves
½ cup (25 g) fresh coriander leaves
(cilantro)
½ tablespoon salt
Rice
2 green cardamom pods, bruised
3 cloves
1 cinnamon stick (1/2 in/3 cm)
1 bay leaf
1 blade of mace
A few rose petals or 2-3 drops of
rose essence
2 cups (400 g) uncooked long-grain
rice, soaked 1 hour and drained
98
Lamb and Corn Curry Makai Gosht
3 tablespoons coriander seeds 1 Dry-roast the coriander seeds in a wok, stirring continuously for 1 to 2
2 tablespoons ghee or oil minutes until fragrant. Cool, then grind to a powder in a blender or mortar
2 medium onions, diced and pestle.
2 tablespoons grated ginger 2 Heat half of the ghee or oil and stir-fry the onion, ginger and garlic until
6 cloves garlic, minced
the onion is almost transparent. Place in a blender or food processor and
2 cloves
grind to a paste, adding water if necessary. Set aside.
2 green cardamom pods, bruised
3 Heat the remaining ghee or oil and stir-fry the cloves, cardamoms, cinnamon
1 cinnamon stick (1/2 in/1 cm)
1 blade mace and mace. Add the lamb and stir-fry until slightly browned. Mix in the onion
1 lb (500 g) boneless lamb, cubed paste, green chilies, turmeric, red pepper and ground coriander. Stir for
3 green chilies, deseeded and about 5 minutes until the oil separates. Add the fresh or frozen sweet corn
minced kernels (if using canned sweet corn, add 5 minutes before the end of
1 teaspoon ground turmeric cooking time), yogurt, enough water to just cover the meat, salt and the
½ teaspoon ground red pepper cashew-nut paste.
11/3 cup (200 g) fresh or frozen sweet 4 Simmer uncovered for 1 hour or until the meat is tender and the gravy has
corn kernels thickened. Add the cream, heat through and serve sprinkled with coriander
1 cup (250 g) yogurt
leaves and ginger shreds.
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons unsalted, roasted
Serves 4 Preparation time: 30 mins Cooking time: 1 hour 10 mins
cashew nuts, soaked and ground to
a paste (optional)
1
/ 3 cup (90 ml) cream
Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro),
to garnish
Finely shredded ginger, to garnish
This is a favorite among India's Parsi community, who are renowned meat eaters. Dhansak, a mixture of
pureed dal, vegetables and meat, is a substantial one-dish meal traditionally served with brown rice, lemon
wedges and Kachumber.
11/4 cups (250 g) yellow lentils 1 Wash the lentils and beans and soak overnight. Drain and set aside.
(tuvar dal) 2 To make the Masala, place the ingredients in a blender or food processor
½ cup (100 g) red lentils (masoor dal) and grind to a paste, adding a little bit of water if necessary. Set aside.
½ cup (100 g) mung beans (moong 3 Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the onion until golden brown. Add the
dal) Masala paste, turmeric, red pepper (if using), coriander and cumin, and stir-
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
fry gently for 5 minutes. Place the lamb in the wok and allow to cook for 5
2 medium onions, sliced
3 minutes or until all the liquid evaporates.
/ 4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground red pepper 4 Add the drained lentils and beans, half the diced eggplant and pumpkin,
(optional) and mix well. Gradually add the water, stirring after each addition, then
1 lb (500 g) lamb, cubed season with salt and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low and
1 teaspoon ground coriander simmer gently for 30 minutes or until the meat is tender. Remove the meat
1 teaspoon ground cumin and set aside.
1 small Asian eggplant (1/4 lb/125 g), 5 Puree the lentils and vegetables in a blender or food processor, then
peeled and diced return the sauce to the wok. Add the meat, the remaining eggplant and
3 cups (250 g) peeled and diced pumpkin, and cook for 20 minutes. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve
pumpkin hot with brown rice and Kachumber (page 27).
6 cups (1 1 / 2 liters) water
1 teaspoon salt Serves 4-6 Preparation time: 45 mins + overnight soaking time
1 tablespoon oil Cooking time: 1 hour 10 mins
Masala
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon coriander seeds
1 cinnamon stick (2 in/5 cm)
5 green cardamom pods
1
/ 4 teaspoon black peppercorns
8 cloves garlic, sliced
2 in (5 cm) ginger, sliced
7 red chilies
102
Sweet Yogurt with Saffron Shrikand
1 Sprinkle the yogurt with sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then press
the mixture through a fine sieve to obtain a silken smooth texture. Add half
the pistachio nuts, the chironji nuts, cardamom and saffron (or mango pulp,
if using) and mix thoroughly.
2 Chill before serving and garnish with the remaining pistachio nuts or
additional saffron, if desired. Serve with Puri (page 36).
Note: If the Sweet Yogurt with Saffron is made a day in advance and
refrigerated, the flavor of the saffron and cardamom will be much
stronger.
Desserts 105
Southern Indian Coconut Dessert Payasam
Universally popular in the south of India, Payasam is made of sweetened milk with a variety of nuts, dal, pearl
sago or even wheat-flour vermicelli. This version uses Bengal gram (channa dal) and is enriched with coconut milk.
2 tablespoons Bengal gram {channa 1 Wash the Bengal gram, then simmer with water for 20 minutes until half
dal) or yellow split peas cooked. Add the milk and simmer for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until the
1 cup (250 ml) water Bengal gram is very soft. Mix in the coconut milk and palm sugar and cook,
1 cup (250 ml) milk stirring frequently, for about 1 hour, until the mixture thickens.
½ cup (125 ml) thick coconut milk or 2 Heat the ghee in a skillet and stir-fry the cardamom pods, cashew nuts
½ cup (125 ml) coconut cream
and raisins until golden brown. Add to the Bengal gram mixture. Although
2 tablespoons (35 g) shaved palm
Payasam is normally served warm or at room temperature, it can be chilled
sugar or dark brown sugar
1
/ 2 tablespoon ghee if preferred.
1-2 green cardamom pods, bruised
1 tablespoon raw cashew nuts, Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 1 hour 45 mins
coarsely ground
1 tablespoon raisins or sultanas
1
/2cup (100 g) uncooked long-grain 1 Place the rice, milk and cardamom in a pot, bring to a boil and simmer
rice, washed and drained gently for 30 to 40 minutes until the rice is soft and the grains start to break up.
3 cups (750 ml) milk 2 Add the almonds, saffron, pistachios and raisins, if using, and simmer for
2-3 green cardamom pods, bruised 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sugar and stir until completely dissolved. Remove
2 tablespoons blanched slivered from the heat and serve either warm or chilled.
almonds
Pinch of saffron threads, soaked in 1
Serves 4 Preparation time: 15 mins Cooking time: 45 mins
tablespoon hot milk for 15 minutes
1 tablespoon shelled pistachio nuts,
skins removed and coarsely ground
1 tablespoon raisins (optional)
1-2 tablespoons sugar
Desserts 107
Cream Cheese Balls in Syrup Rasguiia
Soft homemade cream cheese or chenna is shaped into balls and
simmered in syrup to make a simple but richly satisfying dessert. An
extravagant touch in the form of pure silver beaten into the finest possible
sheets is sometimes added as a garnish on special occasions in India.
Syrup
I ½ cups (375 g) sugar
3 cups (750 ml) water
1 Make the Syrup by bringing the sugar and water to a boil. Turn off the
heat and set aside.
2 Bring the milk slowly to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring
occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice while the milk is
still hot, stirring vigorously until the milk starts to curdle. Strain through a
muslin or cheesecloth until all the liquid has been drained off and all that is
left are the curds.
3 Combine the curds with the flour and shape the mixture into bite-sized
balls. Reheat the Syrup and bring to a boil. Drop the balls into the Syrup,
then reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add another 2 table-
spoons of water to the Syrup every 5 minutes to replace the water lost by
evaporation; this is essential to avoid the Syrup becoming too thick.
4 When the cream cheese balls are cooked, about 15 minutes, remove
from the Syrup and drain, then cover with water until required. Serve with a
spoonful or two of the Syrup poured over the top.
108
Measurements and conversions
Measurements in this book are given in volume as far as possible, Teaspoon, tablespoon and cup measurements
should be level, not heaped, unless otherwise indicated. Australian readers please note that the standard Australian
measuring spoon is larger than the UK or American spoon by 5 ml, so use 3 / 4 tablespoon instead of a full tablespoon
when following the recipes.
½ fl oz 15 ml 1 tablespoon ½ oz 15 g
1 fl oz 30 ml 1/8 cup 1 oz 30g
2 fl oz 60 ml ¼ cup 1½ oz 50 g
4floz 125 ml ½cup 2 oz 60 g
2
5 fl oz ( ¼ pint) 150 ml / 3 cup 3 oz 90 g
3
6 fl oz 175 ml / 4 cup 31/2 oz 100 g
8 fl oz 250 ml 1 cup 4 oz (1/4 lb) 125 g
12 fl oz 375 ml 1 ½ cups 5 oz 150 g
16 fl oz 500 ml 2 cups 6 oz 185 g
7 oz 200 g
Note: 8 oz (½ lb) 250 g
1 UK pint = 20 fl oz 9 oz 280 g
1 US pint = 16 fI oz 10 oz 300 g
16oz(1 lb) 500 g
32 oz (2 lbs) 1 kg
Oven Temperatures
110
Index of recipes
111
Mail-order/online sources
The ingredients used in this book can all be found in health food stores and markets featuring the foods of India
Many of them can also be found in markets featuring Asian foods, as well as any well-stocked supermarket.
Ingredients not found locally may be available from the mail-order or online sources listed below.
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