1.

Topography – refers to the contour or shape of the land. Fruit Trees grow well on
flat to slightly sloping areas
2. Soil Depth – deep soil is important to fruit bearing trees since these are perennial
crops of permanent plantings.

Soil layers
 Horizon humus
 Horizon (top soil)
 Horizon (Eluvation layer)
 Horizon (Sub soil)
 Horizon (regolith)
 Horizon (Bedrock)
3. Accessibility – Accessibility of Site is also important. It should service by good
rocks and near waterways to lessen damage of fruits and cost of transportation.
4. Other factors – even distribution and the amount of rainfall are also necessary
elements for planting fruit bearing trees. Other elements favorable for horticultural
enterprise are the amenities / infrastructure facilities and the socio economic
condition.
Note the address of the site. The location of the planting site in relation to other trees and
objects such as building, fences, have a considerable influence on temperature and
moisture conditions.

Soil Factors 

1. Range of pH levels: Check the pH for several areas on the site. Soil pH is a

measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a soil. A pH below 7 (7 is neutral) indicate an
acid soil, and a pH above 7 indicates an alkaline soil. Most trees thrive on a pH
between 5.5 and 6.5. Pay particular attention to the pH near sidewalks and parking
areas, concrete or masonry buildings or foundations. These limestone-containing
materials in the street environment result in the high pH levels (from neutral to
alkaline) of most urban soils. Some tree species can tolerate in the high pH level.
2. Texture: Test the soil texture using the soil texture-by-feel technique, and record
the results on the checklist. If you must know the exact soil texture, record the
general soil type on the checklist and collect several samples to be analyzed by a
soil lab. A sandy soil will suffer less from the effects of compaction but may be less
able to supply water to trees. Conversely, compaction may render a heavy clay
soil too wet, making oxygen less available.
3. Compaction: A simple way to test for soil compaction is to use a penetrometer.
Record the average depth of penetration at which the probe measures 300 psi.
Alternately, you may take several soil cores using a soil probe and analyze them
for soil density. Perhaps the simplest test is to dig a small pit and gauge the
difficulty of hand digging. Repeat the ‘Shovel test’ in several spots.
4. Specific Soil Problems: Problems might include an inability to surface drain a
site, possible soil checmical contaminants, and the like.

Other soil consideration 

1. Indications of soil layer disturbance: Look for areas that show evidence of
regarding cuts or fills. Clues include mature trees that do not show a trunk flare
(due to soil piled against the trunks), or have retaining walls near their bases. You
may wish to dig a pit approximately two feet deep in order to examine the
horizons, especially if the site had recently had construction activity. Soil layers
that are noticeably lighter in color than lower layers indicate that subsoil has been
spread on top of the original grade. Conversely, the absence of a rich brown,
organic layer at the top may indicate that the topsoil has been removed.
2. Evidence of recent construction: Clues include newly-pave surfaces, turf that is
noticeable thinner than in surrounding areas, new retaining walls, soil ‘humps’ or
subsidence, and the like. Also consider the route or routes taken by heavy
equipment into the site and where materials were stored during construction.
3. Presence of construction debris: Construction debris is likely on almost all
construction sites, particularly if tipping trees for debris are high in your area, and if
construction involved the renovation or removal of a building pavement.
4. Noxious Weeds present: Use a guide to identify weeds. Pay particular attention
to perennial noxious weeds that must be eradicated before landscape installation.
5. Evidence of excessive salt usage/salt injury:Look (particularly near walks and
parking areas) for white powder that has precipitated out on the soil surface.
Prostrate knotweed is a weed that indicates salty compacted soil. Brown needle
tips, marginal leaf scorch, or witches’ broom on ornamentals indicate salt injury.
Carefully examine areas where salt-laden snow has been dumped. These areas
are likely to have high soil salt concentrations.
6. Erosion of soil evidence: Determine the extent and severity of soil erosion. Note
the presence and size of eroded gullies, rills, or soil slumps. Factors that affect soil
erosion include: rainfall intensity, quantity, and runoff; slope length and gradient;
amount of stabilizing plant material or other erosion control practices; the
infiltration rare and the structural stability of the soil. Evidence if soil contamination:
Look for signs of dumping by restaurants or open-air food stalls of wash water, old
dumping areas, construction dumping areas, oil and gas dumping, and the like.
7. Usage that compacts soil: Is the area used for open-air markets or parties? Are
there pathways that pedestrians have created? Is the area sometimes used for
parking? Are there other social activities that are planned for the site that tend to
compact the soil?
Moist Clay 

1. Take a small amount of soil sample and wet it.

2. Try to form a ribbon by rolling it continuously in your fingers
3. If a ribbon is easily forms, it is clayed soil.

Sandy Soil 

1. Take a small amount of soil sample and wet it.

2. Try to form a ribbon by rolling it continuously in your fingers
3. If no ribbon forms at all, it is sandy soil.

Loam 

1. Take a small amount of soil sample and wet it.

2. Try to form a ribbon by rolling it continuously in your fingers
3. If a ribbon forms at first, but breaks up, it is loam soil.
 (1) root cap

(2) cells dividing

(3) cells dividing, elongating and becoming specialized

(4) zone no longer elongating

(5) surface cells

(6) boundary cells

(7) storage cells

(8) conducting cells

(9) branch root

What kind of root do trees have? 

In a young nursery tree, the root system generally consists of:

1. Main roots, including the taproot and others arising from the root collar or the
base of the stem;
2. Branch roots formed at the sides of the main roots, which in turn branch
frequently. In a larger, well-established tree, there are often:
 Thickened structural roots in the soil, going downwards but also
spreading sideways;
 Fine absorbing roots, growing and branching repeatedly in the top
10 cm;
  Many mycorrhizas, close associations between fine roots and
fungi.

In some tropical trees part of the root systems are above-ground, for example as stilt
roots or as breathing’ roots, found especially when the soil is water logged.

What influences root growth? 

Root growth is affected by the following:

4. both the species and the genetic are suited to the locality;
5. the soil conditions
6. establishment of the tree in a bed or container (ex. roots are badly
damaged during potting up, roots in a container become pot-bound)
7. sunlight and nutrients
8. presence of water/irrigation
9. presence of stress, for instance from lack of or too much water, low or
very high temperatures, strong winds or toxic chemicals.

Rooting Space 

Rooting space should be the primary consideration in growing tree. The mature size, growth
rate and longevity of a tree are directly related to the available rooting space.

Structural Factors 

a. Above-ground conflicts such as overhead wire, buildings, signs, other trees

etc. that would restrict unobstructed tree growth.
b. Limitations to below-ground space Underground space is critical for sufficient
root system development and tree health.
Root systems can be very extensive, spreading a distance two times the height of
the tree or more. Yet, most of the roots will be in the top eight to ten inches of the
soil.
Light 

Light determine the number of hours of direct sun the planting site receives in summer,
since different tree species require differing amounts of sunlight.

Trees requiring full sun need at least six hours of direct sun. Trees suited to mostly shaded
to partially sunny sites will adapt to three to six hours of direct sun.

Sun or Shade-Plant Adaptability - Plants need sunlight to perform photosynthesis and they
will compete for this resource. Shade intolerant plant must have full sunlight to grow. Shade
tolerant plants thrive in filtered sunlight under some other plants.

Plants that are able to grow in full sun as well as in shade are considered to tolerate a wide
range of conditions and may be among the most successful plants in the mature
ecosystem.

Photosynthesis

How do trees grow?

By using the energy of sunlight to make organic matter out of simpler substances. Does the
sunlight just warm them up? No, although it does do that. Like all green plants, trees contain
a pigment called chlorophyll which absorbs some of the sunlight, allowing part of its energy
to be turned into a chemical form. During the second stage of this process of
photosynthesis, the chemical energy is used to build in carbon dioxide absorbed from the
air to form sugars.
What happens to these sugars?

Of the large amount produced in a tree, some sugars are:

 broken down again in the process of respiration, providing useful

chemical throughout the tree and releasing carbon dioxide again);
 built up into many other substances that it to live, grow and form, trunks,
branches, leaves, flowers, fruits and seeds; and
 Stored, often as starch.
Planting Distance

Planting distances of fruit trees is determined by the area occupied by its canopy or the
crown of the tree or imaginary circular area created by the extent of the tip of the leaves.

Planting the fruit trees will depend on the following conditions:

1. fertility and depth of the soil;

2. planting materials: seed or asexually propagated;
3. variety;
4. available moisture; and
5. whether the filler trees are to be used.

High Density Planting – refers to the very close distance of the trees from each other

When rainfall is evenly distributed through-out the year and capital is not a limiting factor, it
is possible to decrease the distance of planting two to ten times. When limited rainfall, the
growth of plants is wider than at close spacing.
The minimum-sized planting hole should be 2½ times the diameter of the tree root ball and
no deeper than the height of the root ball.

Research shows that most of a tree’s roots are in the upper 12 to 18 inches of soil and
extend out two to three times the width of the canopy.

Dig the edges of the hole at a 45-degree angle. After digging the planting hole, it is a good
idea to make grooves in the sides and bottom of the hole. When planting trees dug by a
mechanical tree spade, it is better to dig the planting hole with a backhoe and dig the
desired wide shallow hole rather than “plugging in” the tree to the same-size planting hole.
Digging holes
Procedures in digging hole are as follows:

1. Holes should be large enough to accommodate the roots without overcrowding.

2. Holes should be 3-4 times bigger than the diameter of the plastic bag at a depth of
about 5-7.5cm longer than the height of the ball of the soil in the plastic bag.
3. If no land preparation has been done, a larger hole is dug to loosen the soil.
4. The topsoil should be kept separated from the subsoil so that it will be used to
cover the roots of the new plants.
5. After digging the hole, add 50g of 16-2-0 fertilizer (ammosphos), and cover this
with 2.5 cm fine soil.
6. The digging of the hole for the tree requires the removal of the stakes.

What is meant by the water balance?

Trees contain large quantities of water, but If they lose more than they gain, there may soon
be problems.

How much water is there in a tree?

A considerable proportion of it consists of water. For example: a thin leaf might be about
90% water by weight; and an expanding root cell could contain as much as 95% of water.

Is it important that there should be so much?

Yes, because:

 many of the activities of living cells are carried out in very dilute watery
solutions;
 water is needed for the new cells in young stems, leaves and roots to elongate;
 plenty of water is required to maintain considerable pressure inside living cells
giving support to expanded leaves, young stems and flowers;
 trees that are in leaf generally lose large amounts in a single day, and need
some water in reserve.

What happens if a tree runs short of water?

It is under water stress. Moderate, temporary water stress is normal, but a lack of
substantial amounts of water for longer periods can lead to premature leaf-shedding, shoot
die-back or death of the whole tree, unless it:

 is of a species and genetic origin that comes from a drought-prone area;

 has had time to form a well-established root system; and
 has been hardened before being exposed to full light and drying winds

Is there any way of saving young trees that are wilting severely?

Reduce water loss immediately by shading plants growing in beds, and moving containers
to a humid, shady and protected place.

Water the plants if the soil is dry.

NOTE: do not water if the soil is moist, because it will not help, and it could cause harm by
water logging the soil and encouraging root diseases.

Are there some other practical guidelines about water balance?

 Damage needs to be kept to a minimum when they are potted up or moved to

different conditions
 Unrooted and newly rooted cuttings and germinating seedlings require special
care because they are particularly liable to water stress.
 Careful watering is needed by all young trees, especially in containers
 Growing a good root system is more important than having a big shoot on a
nursery tree. Similarly, large leaves are undesirable on planting stock
  Young trees need ‘hardening’ before going to the planting site, so that the newly
planted tree can grow from a position of strength
 The chief function of a tree nursery is to produce planting stock that can
maintain its water balance when planted out.

Can I do anything to reduce waste of water?

      Yes, several things can be done, including:

 storing water when plenty is available for times when it is scarce and demand is
greatest;
 channelling rainwater to help keep the deeper levels of soil moist, or using
polythene sheeting to direct excess water into a collection pond;
 using sunken transplant beds (provided that they will not become waterlogged):

Which kinds of water are suitable?

 A stream or river;
 A freshwater lake;
 A pond or small reservoir created by building a dam;
 Rainwater, collected from the roofs of buildings or with polythene sheeting, and
stored in large barrels or tanks;
 A well or borehole; or
 Mains water, though this can be very expensive

What are the key points about the water supply?

1. 1. Sufficient quantity: enough water is needed to be able to:

 water every potted plant twice a day;
 water all the seed trays, seed beds and transplant beds once a day;
 store some water as a reserve;
 allow for the washing of people and vehicles; and
 build in a safety margin (for example of 50% extra).
  avoiding over-watering the young trees
 choosing less wasteful ways of watering; and
 training people to avoid pouring water on paths, and to look out for and
mend leaks promptly
2. 2. Reliability: great problems involving emergency supplies will result if the water
runs low or stops completely during very dry weather, and the young trees might still
be damaged or even die.
3. 3. Reasonable cleanness: the water needs to be free of:
 a lot of silt, clay, dust or other fine particles suspended in it;
 dissolved pollutants, salt, oil or other chemicals that are toxic to most
plants.

Should the water supply be inside the nursery?

 For all nurseries, it is a big advantage if the site is chosen so that the
water supply is within or close to the nursery, provided that it will not
cause flooding.
 For small nurseries, you could have some buckets handy to catch waste
water.
 For large nurseries, if the water supply is below the nursery, think about
pumping water to a high point, where it could flow by gravity to supply a
series of taps throughout the nursery.
 On some dry or steep sites, it might be necessary to carry or pipe in the
water from a distance.
 Hydraulic rams do not require an external energy source, since they use
water pressure to pump a little water to a higher level.
Soilless Growing Mixes

Advantages:

 Soilless mixes can be standardized so there is little variability between

batches.
 Can create mixes with better physical properties since there is a wide
selection of components possible.
 Soilless mixes generally are not pasteurized.
 Often soilless mixes are inexpensive to prepare
 Generally soilless mixes are light in weight
 Generally soilless mixes have a very low initial nutrient charge

Disadvantages:

 Most components for soilless media have a low level of available and reserve
nutrients
 Balanced fertilizer ratios must be added without excessive salts.
 Starvation symptoms develop more rapidly in soilless mixes.
  Micronutrients must be added
Soil-based Growing Mixes

Advantages:

 Generally plant nutrition is easier because if the nutrients retained by the soil
 Minor element deficiencies are rare because of minor elements are on the
soil exchange sites.

Disadvantages:

 Difficulty in obtaining good quality soil.

 Soil is best stores dry then steam pasteurized before it is used.
 Continuity of soil supply
 Soil based mixes are heavy to handle
 Soil based mixes may be more expensive to prepare properly.

Peat
Peat is usually included in a mix to increase the water-holding capacity or to decrease the
weight. Peats are classifies into three types:

1. Moss peat – more often called peat moss, is the most common form used in the
industry and is derived mostly from sphagnum moss. Peat moss is the least
decomposed form of the peat types, is typically light tan to brown in color,
lightweight (6.5 lbs/yd3), high in moisture-holding capacity and very acid (pH 3.8 to
4.3).
 Light in weight
 High water holding capacity
 Cation exchange capacity is high on a mass basis, but not on a
volume basis
 Physical and chemical properties of peat moss can vary significantly
for different sources
 Strongly acidic
2. Reed-sedge – peat is derived from the moderately decomposed remains if
rushes, coarse grasses, sedges, reed and similar plants.
3. Peat Humus – is usually derived from reed-sedge or hypnum moss peat and
represents an advances stage of decomposition. This type of peat is usually dark
brown to black and has a low moisture-retention capacity
Bark
Described as fresh, aged or composted. Many growers use fresh bark but typically add 1lb
N/yd3 to compensate for the potential nitrogen draft that occurs in the pot. Composting bark
involves moistening the bark, adding ½ pounds n/yd3 from either calcium nitrate or
ammonium nitrate, forming a pile and then turning the pile every 2 to 4 weeks to ensure the
proper aeration.

1. Softwood bark – pine bark is usually stripped from the trees, milled and then
screened into various sizes. A good potting medium usually consists of 70 to
80 percent (by volume) of the particles in the 1/42- to 3/8-inch range with the
remaining particles less than 1/42 inch.
2. Hardwood Bark – The chemical properties of hardwood bark are
significantly different from pine bark. The pH of fresh hardwood bark is
usually less acid (pH 5 to 5.5) than peat moss or pine bark. Composted bark
may be rather typically contains toxic compounds and, for this reason, should
composted before use.
Compost and Animal Manures
1. Manures - Disadvantages include possible high salts, fine particle and weed
seeds. The advantages include the nutrient contribution and potential
improvement in media physical properties.
2. Sludge – a primary consideration when evaluating a sludge is the potential
for elevated heavy metals including cadmium, lead, zinc, copper and mercury
3. Plant-based compost – in some areas compost products provide a low-cost
media amendment. Critical issues to consider are the availability and
consistency of the product and the particle size. Particle sizes for plant-based
compost can be either too large or too fine depending on the source material
and composting process.
4. Rice Hulls – are available in different forms using names such as fresh,
parboiled carbonized and composted. Because of the physical properties,
fresh and parboiled rice hulls can be used as a substitute for perlite in many
mixes. Parboiled hulls are preferred since any weed or rice seed is killed
during the steam process
Perlite
Perlite is produced by heating igneous rock under high temperatures (1,100 to 1,600 ⁰F).
Perlite is a light-weight, sterile, expanded volcanic rock. Unlike vermiculite, it provides no
nutrients for plant growth, but it does provide aeration.

 A very dense aluminum silicate formed when volcanic magma cools rapidly
 Processed at high temperature to expand and to form white, lightweight
particles.
 Chemically inert (pH 7.0-8.5)
 Low cation exchange capacity
 Low water holding capacity
Mixing Growing Media

General Mixing and Handling Recommendations

 Test the media pH, total soluble salts (electrical conductivity) and wettability
before use.
 Do NOT make changes to your current growing media without experimenting first
to see if changes may affect your cultural practices.
 Thoroughly mix components, but don’t overmix, especially if a medium contains
vermiculite or plastic-coated slow-release fertilizer.
  Do NOT store media that contains fertilizer for long periods of time, especially if
the media is moist.
 Avoid contamination of components or finished media by keeping amendments in
closed bags or by covering outdoor piles.
 Do not allow mixes containing a significant amount of peat moss to dry out.

Mixing Growing Media

Steps in mixing growing media

MIXING_M.FLV

1. The most popular is a combination of sand, soil, ricehull and compost in equal
proportion. (1:1:1 ration)
2. Prepare the tools and materials needed.
3. Wear Personal Protective Equipment.
4. Measure growing media component in equal proportion.
5. Mix one part of sand, one part of soil, one part of ricehull and one part of compost
in equal proportion.

Preparation of seeds for Germination

Dehusking

DEHUSKIN.FLV

1. Collect freshly extracted mango seeds.

2. Dehusk the seeds immediately by removing the tough seed cover (called husk)
3. To dehusk, cut the tip of the seed with any sharp knife and split it off to take out
the inner parts (endosperm with embryo) of the seed.
4. Select only sound healthy seeds. This means that the seeds are not broken and
discolored. Discard broken and discolored ones.
REMEMBER! To ensure high quality germination rate and healthy seedlings,

1. Use only large and fully developed seeds from ripe fruits, possibly from old trees
in high rainfall areas.
2. Choose seeds that are free from mechanical and pest damage.
3. Wash the seeds well to remove the pulp.
4. Treat the seed with dithane or any recommended fungicides.
5. Sow the seed immediately after washing or treating with fungicide.
Sowing the Seed

Steps in sowing the seeds

1. Make shallow 1 to 2 cm depth furrows, about 5cm apart across the length of the
seedbed.
2. Sow immediately dehusked seeds by lining them along the furrows, almost end to
end, with the concave side facing downward.
3. Cover the seeds with about 1cm of the soil.

Bagging the Seedlings

Steps in bagging seedlings

1. Prepare the medium of mango seedlings
2. Mix equal proportion of sand or coir dust, garden soil and compost. Pure sandy
loam soil alone or in combination with compost, may also be used.
3. A mango seedling is ready for bagging as soon as its first pair of leaves becomes
mature
4. Lift the seedlings from the seedbeds by holding the seedling at its base with one
hand, lifting it slowly while being dug with another hand using a blunt stick or
trowel.
5. Collect the lifted seedling in a bucket containing about ¼ full of water.
 6. Fill up the plastic bag (3 ½ x 3 ½ x 11) nearly half the medium. Tap the bag to the
ground once or twice to compact the medium.
7. Set one seedlings on top of the soil at the middle of the bag.
8. Tap the plastic bag twice or thrice, the compact soil and to keep the seedling in
upright position.
9. Repeat the procedures for the remaining seedlings.

Grafting Seedlings

Steps in cleft grafting

Play Video

 
1. Collect scions only from selected bearing “Mango trees”. The scion should be 6 to
9 months old (from flushing), about 1 cm in diameter, 10 cm long, and with a
prominent terminal bud (growing point).
2. Defoliate the scion immediately after collection, wrap them with moist newspaper
and place them inside polyethylene (ice) plastic bag.
3. Get a scion which was previously wrapped with strip of ice plastic bag. Cut its
base into a smooth wedge of about 2 cm long.
4. Cut back the mango seedlings (hereinafter called rootstocks) at the point at the
greenish brown bark. Retain two or more leaves below the cut.
5. Make a vertical slit at the middle of the cut deep enough (about 2 cm) to
accommodate the wedge cut portion of the scion.
6. Insert the base of the scion into the slit of the rootstock and tie them together with
polyethylene strip.
7. Cover the entire scion with clear ice candy plastic bag.
8. Remove the plastic bag cover from the scion as soon as it interferes with the new
flush of growth on the scion.
9. Remove the plastic strip binding the scion on the rootstock as soon as complete
union of scion and root stock has taken place. Delaying the removal of the strip
would result to girdling of the rootstock.
10. Regularly inspect the grafts and remove any sprout coming from the rootstock.
Tips:

a. Keep the soil from crumbling

b. Do it in a short span of time to prevent the plant from drying up
c. The root system is covered with the topsoil and then packed closely by
tamping.
d. The amount to be pruned depends on the amount of water available and
climatic conditions in the area.

STEPS:

1. Remove the bag from the seedling without breaking the ball of soil.
2. Place the seedling in the hole. For best results, the fruit tree seedlings should be
set two inches deeper than it stood in the container.
3. Cover the seedling with the remaining top soil.
4. Align the plant with the other plants in all direction before filling the hole.
5. Press the soil firmly around the base of the plant by tamping the soil.
6. Water the newly transplanted fruit tree seedlings.
7. Support the newly transplanted fruit tree seedlings with sticks to keep them in an
upright position.
8. Prune the top portion to prevent a big amount of water loss from the plant.
STEPS:
 Cover the root system with the remaining top soil. This will contribute to healthy
development of the plant.
 Press the soil firmly around the base of the plant by tamping the soil. This will
eliminate air packets and to have a good contact or anchorage of the roots into the
soil.
 In addition to the top soil, you may also use mulching materials to cover the root
system.
Tips in putting mulch in your newly planted seedlings

 Mulch, but don’t over mulch newly planted trees and shrubs. Two to three inches
of mulch is best – less if a fine material, more if coarse. Use either organic
mulches (shredded or chunk pine bark, pine straw, composts) or inorganic
mulches (volcanic and river rocks).
 Keep mulch from touching tree trunks and shrub stems. This prevents disease
and rodent problems if using organic mulches, and bark abrasion if using
inorganic mulches
 Don’t use black plastic beneath mulch around trees and shrubs because it blocks
air and water exchange. For added weed control, use landscape fabrics that
resist weed root penetration. Apply only one to two inches of mulch fabrics to
prevent weeds from growing in the mulch.

Pruning newly transplanted fruit trees

The best time to prune living branches is late in the dormant season or before leaves form.
Dead and dying branches can be pruned anytime. Use sharp tools. Make clean cuts. Be
careful with the tools.
Fertilization

Basically, fruit trees need nutrients for growth, reproduction and maintenance
Macro Nutrients

1. Nitrogen – Nitrogen has the greatest influence on shoot and leaf formation. It
promotes growth on size of fruits for better yield.
2. Phosphorus – promotes a strong, deep root system and better ripening of the
wood and fruits. It can also increase the specific gravity and sugar content of fruits.
3. Potassium – potassium promotes flowering, fruit setting, ripening and even high
yields due to quality of fruits.

Micro Nutrients
1. Carbon
8. Zinc
2. Hydrogen
9. Copper
3. Calcium
10. Molybdenum
4. Magnesium
11. Manganese
5. Sulfur
12. Chlorine
6. Boron
13. Oxygen
7. Iron

Form of Fertilizer
Organic and inorganic with compost can be used. Pellets/granular and foliar preparations
are widely used.
Steps in applying granular fertilizers:

1. Place the fertilizer in 4-6 small holes, equidistant from each other, at the depth of
5-10 cm.
 2. Dig the holes at half the radius of the tree canopy.
3. Cover the holes with enough soil to prevent volatilization, run off and other forms
of nutrients loss.
4. Make sure the locations of the holes are changed every time.

Apply Fertilizer Properly

The easiest and most effective method of supplying nutrients to the entire root system of the
plant is broadcasting – spreading granular fertilizer evenly over the entire root zone.

Digging or drilling holes throughout the root zone ad partially filling them with fertilizer is not
effective, as most of the feeder roots of a tree or shrub are in upper layer soil, and drilling
puts the fertilizer below the level of the feeder roots.
Steps in fertlization of mango

1. Remove the weeds before applying fertilizer

2. Dig at least three holes or circular canal, 20 cm to 2m away from each tree
depending on age of trees as follows :
 1-3 years old = 20 – 45 cm
 4-15 years old = 1 – 2 m
3. Apply the fertilizer to the holes or canal, and then cover the fertilizer with soil.
4. Apply into two equal installment
5. First application at the start of the rainy season
6. Second application before end of the wet season.
Irrigation is the application of water to the plants. Depending on the age of the tree and
topography, apply water through the following method.

 Basin Method - Dig a basin-like around 10cm deep 2cm from the trunk base.
Pour water in the basin. This is most appropriate for young trees planted in
sloping area.
 Through holes – Dig four to six holes around the trunk base 20cm deep and
15cm wide 2m from the trunk base. Fill the holes to capacity with water. After
filling the last few holes, water applied earlier will have drained the holes should
be filled again. Holes in applying fertilizer may serve the purpose. This can be
adapted to both flat and sloping areas.
 Canal Method – Dig a circular canal 30cm wide and 30cm deep around the trunk
from the trunk base. Pour water in the canal. This is applicable on flat areas.

Water the plants by using a watering hose or container. Each bearing tree should receive
200ml of water weekly during the dry season.

Drip or mini-spray systems may be installed depending on the farm size and the financial
capability of the mango grower.
Pruning

Generally refers to the removal of plant parts such as buds, developed shoots and roots,
controlling the direction and amount of growth.
Procedures in Pruning

1. Make a small wedge shaped cut on the underside of the branch just on the branch
side of the stem collar. This will break the bark at that pint and prevent a tear from
running along the bark and stem tissue.
2. Somewhat farther along the branch, starting at the top of the branch, cut all the
way through the branch leaving a stub end.
3. Finally, make a third cut parallel to and just on the branch side of the stem collar to
reduce the length of the stub as much as possible.
Procedures of pruning carabao mango trees

1. Remove the terminal bud of the seedling one month after planting to induce early
branching.
2. Remove any shoots that will subsequently grow from the rootstock.
3. On year 2, prune all branches except four or less distributed branches which are
almost perpendicular to the trunk.
4. All the remaining branches to produce side branches
5. Remove shoots that may come out later from the main trunk.
6. Paint immediately pruning wounds that are larger than pencil size.
7. On subsequent years pruning is done primarily to remove weak, unproductive,
diseased and dried branches and shoots.
Treat wounds

If trees are wounded, remove injured bark with a sharp knife. Make cuts as shallow as
possible. Forming an elongated ellipse is not necessary. Make all margins rounded; do not
point tips. Do not enlarge the wound. Do not paint. Do everything possible to maintain
health - water, fertilize, prune.

Holes for draining water

Do not bore holes to drain water from cavities. Drain tubes may be used for wetwood
materials, but such treatment will increase the column of internal wetwood.

Cavities
If cavities are to be filled, do not clean so thoroughly that the boundary between decayed
wood and sound wood is broken. Fill with nonabrasive materials. Leave for professionals.

Injections and implants

If you plan to have chemicals injected or implanted in your trees, make certain that it is done
only by highly skilled professionals. Check injection and implant holes after one season to
make certain they are closed. Injection and implant holes should be very small and shallow
at the tree base, not in the roots.

Cable and brace

If rot is present, put rods entirely through the stem, and use round or oval washers on both
sides. Washers should be seated on the wood, not deep in the wood or on the bark. Cables
should allow tree to move slightly. Leave to professionals.
Banned and Restricted Pesticides in the Philippines

Pesticides have been of gross benefit to agriculture.

 They have minimized crop damage by insects, weeds plants diseases, rodents
and other pests.
 They have saved lives through control of disease – carrying insects.
 They have provided a higher quality of life to man.

Pesticides, however, are poisons, that if used improperly or without sufficient knowledge of
their side effects, can endanger man and animals.

The primary purpose of Presidential Decree 1144 creating the Fertilizer and Pesticide
Authority (FPA) is to address this challenge. It does so through a process of pesticide
registration.

Restricted Pesticides in the Philippines

A. Importation Not Allowed Except in Cases if Emergency as Determined by the

Authority.
1. Aldicarb
2. Chlorobenzilate
B. For Termite Control Only
1. Chlordane – its use is limited preconstruction treatment

C. Fumigants and Other Chemicals for Use by Certified Fumigators Only. Adequate
time for aeration is required after treatment before commodities are processed into
food or feed.
1. Methyl bromide
2. Carbon disulfide
3. Phosphine-generating compounds
4. HCN-generating materials
5. Carbon tetrachloride
6. Chloroform
7. Ethylformate

D. For Use Under Specified Limitations

1. DDT – all uses cancelled except for malaria control purposes by the
Department of Health.
2. Not for Use near Aquatic Ecosystem
a. Chlordane
b. Endosulfan
3. Too Hazardous for General Use- for institutional use Only
a. Paraquat – approval of use will be based on strict compliance
by the importer/end-user of the requirements ser for its use.
b. Phenamiphos – for use in banana and pineapple plantations.
c. Entroprop – for use in banana plantations only
d. Methidathion - for use in banana plantations only
e. Inorganic Arsenicals (Arsenic Trioxide) – for use by FPA –
accredited wood treatment and preserving plants only.
f. Lindane (Gamma/BHC) – for soil pre-plant application in
pineapple plantations only.
g. Pentachchlorophenol – for use in wood treatment only by FPA
– accredited wood treating plants and institutions.

E. Endosulfan – only allowed if the concentration is reduced to 5% or lower for other

uses.

F. Monochrotophos – allowed for bean fly control on legumes only.

1. Nuvacron 30 SCW
2. Azodrin 168
3. Azodrin 202R
4. Azodrin 150
5. Azodrin 202
 6. Azodrin 137
7. Azodrin 150

FPA Approved Pesticides

COMPANY COMMON NAME PRODUCT NAME

Agchem Mfg. Corp 2,4-D Amine DMA 3.34 LBS/USG

Asiatic Agrochem Corp Thiobencarb+2,4-D Saturn D

Thiobencarb+2,4-D Grassedge EC
Thiobencarb Saturn S
Thiobencarb Saturn 60 EC

Bayer Phils., Inc. 2,4-D Amine Hedonal Liquid SL400

Butachlor Machete En
Butachlor Machete 60 EC
Butachlor Machete En

Ciba-Geigy Phils. Inc. Cinosulfuron+Piperophos Pipset 35 WP

Piperophos+2,4-D IBE Rilof H 500 EC
Pretilachlor Sofit 300 EC

Agchem Corporation Isoprothiolane Fuji-One 40 EC

Agro-Chemical Mancozeb Dithane M-45

Aldiz Inc. Copper Hydroxide Funguran OH

Mancozeb Vondozeb 75 Plus

Bayer Phils., Inc Edifenphos Dhitane M-45

Cropking Chem., Inc. Mancozeb Benlate

Du Pont Far East Benomyl/Mancozeb Manzate 200

Hoechst Far East Mktg.,

Copper Oxychloride Vitigran Blue 35 WP
Corp.
Maneb Plantineb 80 WP

Hunter Mktg. & Corp. Mancozeb-Zn Weisser Fungikil Dev't 80 WP

Planters Prod. Inc. Mancozeb Parafungus 80 WP Fungitox

80 WP

Rhone-Poulenc Agro Chem. Thiophanate Methyl Daconil 278775 WP

Rohm & Haas Phils., Inc. Chlorothalanil Rovral 50 WP
Iprodione Dithane M-45
Mancozeb

Agchem Mfg., Inc. Metaldehyde Meta Bait 6% Pellets

 Metaldehyde Snailkill 6% G
Metaldehyde Pornsnail 75 WP

Bayer Phils., Inc. Niclosamide Baylucide

Biofield Industries Inc. Copper Hydroxosulfate Snipe 16 G

Ciba-Geigy Metaldehyde Ciba Meta Bait

Cyanamid Agri-Prod Tannins, Glycosides Protek MR

Sterols 
Flavonoids

Bayer Phils., Inc. Coumateralyl Racumin Dust

Planters Prod., Inc. Warfarin Ratoxin

Rhone-Poulenc Zinc Phosphide Zinc Phosphide

Integrated Pest Management for Mango

Integrated pest management (IPM) is the proper selection and use of suitable pest
management practices to reduce pest injury at levels below those causing significant loss. It
aims to:

a. Increase profit through the improvement of fruit yield and quality by reducing
pest damages and through the reduction of the cost of pest management.
b. Improve sustainability of mango production by reducing the deleterious effects
of pesticides such as pesticides resistance and hazards to human and
environment.
Minimum Maturity Requirements for Local Citrus

Juice
Cultivars Color Break Soluble Titratable Soild Acid
Content (%
Soilds % Acids % Ratio
by weight)

Valencia 25 8.5 0.5 10:1 50

Ladu Hybrid 25 9.0 0.6 10:1 50

Ladu Ordinary 25 8.0 0.6 8:1 50

Pummelo 50 9.0 0.6 10:1 50

Ponkan 50 9.5 0.5 10:1 50

Batangas
no req. 7.5 0.7 7:1 50
Mandarin

Szinkom no req. 7.5 0.7 7:1 50

Calamondin no req. no req. no req. no req. 40

Steps in Banana Harvesting

Play Video

1. Determine maturity index

2. Select matured banana ready for harvesting
3. Remove dried leaves and clear areas that cause obstruction in cutting the stem
4. Partially cut the middle of the banana stem
5. Pull some if the dried leaves to bend it downward slowly
6. Support or hold the branches before it reaches the ground
7. Cut separately the branch form the stem
Steps in Papaya Harvesting

Play Video

1. Determine maturity index

2. Select matured papaya ready for harvesting
3. Prepare fruit crate with liner
4. Harvest papaya by twisting method.
5. Place papaya fruit in the crate
Cleaning and sharpening shears

TIPS:

 Keep a metal file with you if you have a lot of pruning to do. You can sharpen
the blade in the field by propping the handle open against the trunk of a tree to
hold the blade in the open position.
 Coat the sharpened shears with a light application of oil to prevent them from
rusting.

Tip on finer sharpening

 If sharpening with a file, the resulting cut will be a ragged result if cutting many
things (especially soft woods, roses or flower stems).
 To improve the cut (ideally for all situations) carry a pocket size sharpening
stone. A fine carborundum stone is best. First, sharpen with the stone dry, then
finish off with the stone, wet with water. Always move the stone into the cutting
edge, not away from it.
Factors affecting post harvest operations

1. Temperature
A decrease in temperature leads to a decrease in the following:

 Respiration
 Transpiration
 Microbial and insect growth

An increase in temperature leads the greater heat produced. If heat cannot escape,
the following will occur:

 Increase respiration rate

 Rise in fruit temperature, which will lead to rapid decay of fruit

2. Relative Humidity
Humidity is the ration of the amount of water vapor it can contain and the amount of
water vapor it can hold.

If the air is saturated, the relative humidity is 100%. The lower the relative humidity,
the drier the air is.

Most fruits contain 80-95% water. Therefore, if air is not saturated, it will lose its
water to the atmosphere.

What happens if the air has low relative humidity? The lower relative air humidity of
the atmosphere at the same temperature will lead to the following:

a. Fruits will lose its water content

b. Fruit will eventually wilt or shrivel
 3. Gases in the Atmosphere
 Air contains 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen, 0.03% carbon dioxide and some
minor gases.
 The increase and/or increase in carbon dioxide affect the storage life of
harvested fruits.
 Each fruit can tolerate a certain level of oxygen and carbon dioxide at
which its respiration is at its minimum.

Ethylene affects the storage life of many fruits.

 Acetylene is found in smoke and exhaust pipes of vehicles. Its presence

in the air causes fruits to:
o Become yellow
o Ripen faster

4. Microorganisms and insects

 Fruits are not only a rich source of food for people but also for
microorganisms and insects
 Keeping insects away and/or minimizing the growth and reproduction and
growth of microorganisms will help prevent or delay fruits from rotting or
spoiling
 Insect bites on fruits also cause mechanical damage.
Post Harvest of Banana

Play Video

STEPS:

1. Transport the banana bunch from the farm to the post-harvest area.
2. Unload the banana bunch at the post-harvest area.
3. Remove the plastic cover of the banana bunch.
4. Dehand each banana hand from the bunch.
5. Prepare tawas (allum solution) for treating and cleaning.
6. Soak and wash each banana hand in the tawas solution.
Post Harvest of Papaya

 
 Play Video

STEPS:

1. Bring the harvested papayas from farm to the post-harvest area.

2. Wash papayas treated with 5% allum solution.
3. Air dry treated and washed papayas.
4. Sort papayas according to size and quality.
5. Wrap papayas with used newspaper.
6. Place papaya inside the fruit crate.
7. Weigh papayas ready for storage and marketing.
Post harvest losses of fruits

Post harvest losses of fruits can be due to technological and non-technological reasons.

Technological:
 Lack of transportation
 Lack of storage
 Adverse weather conditions
 Inefficiency of distribution
 Lack of market demand

Non-technological:
 Decay
 Yellowing
 Wilting
Post harvest practices

Post harvest practices are preparatory activities before storage, transport and marketing to
obtain more sealable produce and to insure quantity maintenance until retail.

The common packinghouse operations are:

Alternative Post Harvest Practices

You can modify the storage atmosphere by doing the following modifications:

 Use a plastic or polyethylene film as an alternative to the controlled atmosphere

storage or transport
  Use calcium carbide, ether, leaves of “kakawate” to ripen fruits; or
 Use of ethylene gas

Packaging and Handling Damage

1. Physiological Problems
2. Pathological diseases – damage due to microbial agents
3. Mechanical damage
4. Distortion – change of the shape of an intact fruit not characteristics of the
variety
5. Abrasion – removal, scarping or separation of the skin from the pulp. This is
sometimes called shatter.

Damage sources while packing and produce handling

1. Impact – damage made by collision between produce and hard surface
2. Pressure – occurs when a heavy weight is placed on top of the commodity
3. Vibration – occurs when the produce is repeatedly shaken for a prolonged
period within the container during transport.
Field and shipping packages

Learning proper packaging of harvested fruits can help reduce damage and/or losses of
your produce Field and shipping packages can be flexible, semi-rigid or rigid.

Flexible packages are useful hard or bulky commodities. Bags and sacks belong to this
category. In this lesson, sacks and bags mean the same. Their traditional use has been
associated with materials like the jute sack or mesh bag.
Packaging

Choosing a package

Consider the following factors in packaging fruits. Each factor varies in importance with
marketing groups.

1. Commodity
2. Type of loading
3. Type of treatments
4. Method of selling
5. Cost of effectiveness
6. Distance of delivery
7. Convenience and availability

Techniques in manual packaging

1. Immobilize the commodity as much as possible.

2. Fill only to capacity of container do not overfill
 3. Gently handle packed commodities, even if the package is strong enough to
protect the commodity
4. Pack in a cool place
5. Containers should be clean
6. Pack fruits only one stage of maturity or degree of ripeness.

Reducing damage during transport

1. Ensure that vehicle is in good order and has a good suspension system
2. Drive properly. Excessive speeds and rapid starts increase damage
3. Minimize heat build-up
4. See to it that movements of container are minimal
5. Minimize delays or transfers of packages
6. Protect commodities from rain.