Fine-Tools Berlin presents: www.fine-tools.

com

by Guido Henn (Translation by Brian Anderson)

Text, Photos, Drawings and
Layout:Guido Henn, 53902 Bad
Münstereifel,
Germanywww.hobbywood.de

© 2014 by Guido Henn und

Feine Werkzeuge Berlin
All Rights Reserved. This pamphlet is copyright pro-
tected. Any use of the text or photos or design of the
pamphlet beyond the cases regulated by law must
be approved in writing by the writer. The described
methods, techniques, suggestions and
recommendations were carefully prepared and
tested by the author. Nevertheless there is no gua-
rantee implied or expressed. The author accepts no
liability for personal injury, or damage to property or
other assets.
The Base for Perfect
Woodworking

As the old saying goes, a man

absolutely should have done three
things in life: fathered children, plan-
ted a tree, and built a house. To this
list a woodworker would surely add: to
have built a great workbench.
Everyone who takes woodworking
seriously, sooner or later dreams of
building with his own hands a bench
that is truly his.
I recently had the luck and the honor
to build such a bench, a very special
bench of a type that is impossible to
buy anywhere. It is based on an old
design from the French master
carpenter and writer André Jacob
Roubo (1739 - 1791).
Roubo detailed the basic form, which types of jigs and benchtop tools in the
at first glance is rather unusual, in his most convenient position - makes this
book “L’Art du Menuisier” (The Art of bench very well-adapted for
Joinery). An American family firm, woodworkers using heavy machinery
Benchcrafted, has developed and as well.
produced a set of perfectly adapted
hardware for this type of bench. The
quality of design and production in
these vises is really very impressive.
The ease of use, fit and finish, and all
around elegance of the components’
form and function add a great deal to
the appeal of this workbench.

The first time you spin the massive

hand wheel and watch how the solid,
heavy chop of the leg vise effortlessly,
almost weightlessly, opens and
closes, it will very difficult to escape
the spell of this workbench.
I know most of the different types of
workbenches, and have done both
restorations and new builds, but I
found none of them as fascinating as
this Roubo bench. The massive
construction, about 150 kilos, makes
this bench extremely well-suited and a
pleasure to use with hand tools.
Nothing moves or wobbles even duri-
ng strenuous hand planing, and the
104 mm-thick top does not move a
micron even when chopping fat, deep,
mortises.
The bench also offers a wide variety
of work-holding possibilities - that you
can securely fix work pieces of almost
any dimension or various
Building a workbench based on the illustrations by
André Jacob Roubo (1739 - 1791)

(optimized with hardware by Benchcrafted)

Removable board for tool

storage which can also be used
as a plane or saw bench stop.
19 mm round holes for a
wide variety of bench
dogs, hooks, and other
clamping devices

Just in general, the many wonderful

small details of this bench set it apart
from more conventional workbenches.
If you have been on the lookout for a
solid bench for fine woodworking, then
your search ends here.

Let’s have a look at the following

sites and the video at fine-tools.com
to learn the attributes of this inspiring
workbench.
These instructions will outline all the
important steps in the construction of
this dream bench. All the fittings and
accessories can be found at the
internet shop of Fine Tools Berlin
(www.fine-tools.com)

I hope that your build of this Roubo

workbench will be a success and a
pleasure.

Sincerely

Guido Henn
The Highlight of this bench is the extremely smooth and
quickly adjustable leg vise, which is capable of very high
clamping pressures.

If you need to clamp longer boards in the leg vise, there

is an integrated sliding deadman that can be moved
steplessly between the two legs to solidly support the
workpiece along its length.
The deadman can also be removed and, along with any
other tools, be stored on the large shelf supported by the
rails joining the base of the legs.
The tail vise can be used to clamp workpieces up to 310
mm wide and 45 mm thick.
Longer and thicker workpieces can be clamped to the
bench top using round brass bench dogs.
A slotted board fits the slot between the two sections of Because the board stands 15 mm proud of the bench
the bench top. Chisels, saws, etc, can be temporarily top, it can also be used as a saw stop, while cutting the
stored in the slots while in use, and the board makes a shoulders of a tenon, for instance.
handy place to set planes so that their irons are
protected and do not mar the surface of the top.
The projecting board works equally well as a planing The board is simply placed loose in the slot, and can be
stop, to pare the cheeks of a tenon using a rabbet plane, easily removed and set aside. F-clamps can then be
for instance. inserted into the empty slot between the two sections of
bench top to fix work pieces or other bench top
accessories in place.
To build a Roubo workbench you will need between 0,35 on the dimensions of the wood purchased. The thicker
to 0,4 of a cubic meter of good quality, clear hardwood the planks, the more expensive they will be. I chose 65
dimension lumber. If you use rough-sawn planks with the mm boards for the bench top, and 52 mm planks for the
live, or forest, edge intact, or a species of wood with a lot frame. There was a difference of 200 euros in the cost
of sapwood (like oak, for instance), then the volume of per cubic meter between the two thicknesses. So it can
wood needed can be significantly higher. For my be worth it to buy thinner stock for the whole bench. But
workbench I chose “hard maple” dimension lumber from then you must remember that thinner stock will require
Canada or the United States, which one can readily find more jointing and glue up. There is also the question if
in a well-stocked lumber yard. This wood is very hard, it the thinner 52 mm stock will be as straight. Can you, for
“works” much less than beech with changes in the example, expect to get from six planed planks a section
ambient humidity. Its light color is an advantage for of bench top 285 mm wide. In that case you would have
workbenches, and it does not have deep pores, like oak to figure on planing a maximum of 4 mm of of each
or ash, for instance. The price for wood suitable for a plank - which on 2-meter long planks would be a really
bench like this can vary quite significantly depending close thing.

Sectioning the planks can easily be done with a good

hand circular saw using a guide rail. Lay the planks on
plenty of blocks or saw horses. The boards must be
supported along their length so that the cuts can be
made without the danger of the off-cuts falling to the
floor or having their weight bind the saw in the cut! If
you can also clamp the boards in place, the sectioning
work is easier, safer and more precise. Be careful to cut
the stock about 50 mm longer than needed. It is also
important to closely examine the ends of the boards. If
there are any cracks from the drying and seasoning
process, then you will need to also take those into
account when dimensioning your lumber.
 The main challenge when building this
bench is the exact planing, jointing and
glue-up of the bench top and posts.
Besides a good jointer/thickness planer,
you will need, as shown in the photos, a
significant number of large and strong
clamps. Because suitable wood in the sizes
required is quite heavy, a strong assistant
is highly recommended during the planing
and glue-up steps when building this
bench. When you have successfully met
this challenge, then the rest of the
construction will be like a walk in the
countryside, or perhaps, better put, a short
mountain hike!

As we have already mentioned, a good number of big,

solid F-clamps are an absolute must when building this
workbench. In order to glue up the posts for instance,
you will need at least 10 clamps in order to properly close
up the glue joint. Two lighter clamps are used to make
sure that the two planks do not slide around during
clamping the piece up. It is best to use a toothed glue
trowel or spatula to get a consistently thin and even
coverage on the boards. Many glue manufacturers
recommend, for hardwoods, that both sides of the joint
be coated with glue. If you need to do this, it is extremely
important to use a very thin coat on each board. If it it is
too thick, then the excess glue will be squeezed out
around the joint. This makes a mess and takes time to
clean up, but far worse is the fact that it becomes very
difficult to achieve a strong and tight glue joint. You will
know you have spread the right amount of glue if after
the clamps are tightened, you have a small, even bead of
glue squeezed out around the entire joint. It is a good
idea to practice this process on the posts, so that you
have it mastered when you start glueing up the longer
bench tops.

right board Be careful during glue-up to follow the usual rules for
side these kinds of laminations - heartwood on heartwood,
and sapwood on sapwood, for instance. Very important
also, with the posts for instance, is to always glue the
Finally,
“left” the
sideshand circular
of the boardsaw with guide
together. That rail
is toissay,
alsosince
used
to cut your stock to the correct width. During
boards always shrink more, or cup towards, the side this step,
youtoward
must also be careful
the outside to allow
of the a little
tree, this extra
helps keepwoodtheso
glue
that the boards can be planed and jointed (5-7
line nice and tight as the wood moves with changes mm). If in
youhumidity.
have a table or panel saw in your workshop,
obviously you can use those saws to cut the boards to
width.
Info: The “left” side is that toward the bark of the tree,
and the “right” is toward the heart (the middle of the tree
left board trunk). (see also the arrows in the photo)
side
The rear section of the bench top is simply glued up out
of a number of two-meter-long (plus any needed off-cut
material on the ends) boards to get a width of at least
285 mm. The front section is a little more complicated.
With this section you glue up a section of at least 200
mm width in the 2 m + boards. Then to the clean, square
and jointed front side of the 200 mm wide part, you glue
another board, exactly jointed and thicknessed to its
finish dimensions of 45 mm thick, 104 mm wide, and at
least 1492 mm long. This short board will create the slot
for the tail vise. It is best to leave this piece about 50 mm
longer than needed and just saw one end so that it is ...
If you joint only the two sides of the boards that you want
to glue together, you do not have to use clamping pads to
protect the wood. The still-raw outer sides can then be
planed to their final dimensions after the glue has fully
cured (overnight, at least! see photo above) To do this
you first joint the wider side of the post, ...
... and then press that side against the fence to plane the
narrower side flat and square. In this way the two sides
are flat and square to each other. Then you run the post
through the thickness planer, first the narrow side, and
finish by planing the wider side to the correct dimension
in the thicknesser.
To cut the tenons needed to join the workbench’s frame, The rail is laid flat on the saw table and the tenon’s
you can, naturally, do it entirely by hand or use the aid of shoulders are cut. Important tip: In this bench, there
machines. With a jig like the one shown in the photo, the are mortise-andtenon joints in a few different
50 mm long tenon cheeks can be cut safely and very dimensions. So it is important to double check each
precisely on a Festool “trimming” table saw like this. But piece and each joint to make sure you have taken the
it can also be done with a regular table- or panel- saw proper dimensions and orientation from the plans. It is
using a similar type of shop-built jig. The first step is to fairly easy to lose track of where the part fits in the
cut the two 50 mm-long tenon cheeks. overview, and get the wrong measurements for the
individual parts.

... exactly square. So that this board can be glued exactly

at the proper point, and can’t slip, clamp an auxiliary
board on the front edge of the top to form a “stop” for the
board. It is important also to put a strip of paper between
the auxiliary board and the bench top to make sure you
don’t inadvertently glue the auxiliary board to the top.
Then you use some clamping pads under the clamps and
use enough of them to make sure the joint is tight all
along its length. Then give the glue time to cure properly,
overnight at least.
The tenons are also cut in on their edges slightly. Again ... leaving just a bit to be trimmed to their exact
here, the best way is to use a hand saw to rough-cut the dimensions on a router table using the miter gauge.
joints, ...

Using a 16 mm straight cutter (cutting depth 50 mm) and The rounded ends of the mortises are then squared off
a router, you can then machine the mortises. In order to using a chisel. Alternatively you can also carefully round
make sure the router cuts the mortise, and doesn’t slip or the ends of the tenons with a file to get a good fit.
get pulled out of alignment, it is best to add a second Another practical solution is to use an 8 mm round-over
parallel guide, or fence, to the setup. Depending on the bit on a router table to shape the tenons to fit.
A more precise way to sometimes
cut the tenons
youiswillto need
use atorouter, You can get remarkably precise and clean cuts for
model of router you use, get
longer steel rods. It is also fairly easy to build a jig The
or better, a router table, as shown in the photo. tenons using a rabbeting cutter, with interchangeable
router to
table mustthe
have an accurate
accuracymiter
of cutgauge. The bit blades, or cutters, like the one shown in the photo, on a
yourself achieve same (Info on this
should be relatively large, with a diameter of at least 30 solid router table. The cutter shown has a diameter of 50
type of jig can for instance be found in my "Handbuch
mm. When using these machines,When it is best to rough-cut mm, and a cutting height of 30 mm. In this way you get a
Oberfräse" ISBN: 9783866309494). cutting these
the joint with a saw, leaving just a little bit of extrastop
wood, very high rotation speed, and so can achieve a clean cut
kinds of slots, it is also important to securely clamp
and then use the moulder or router table to finish the that you would expect from a heavier milling machine.
blocks at both ends of the workpiece so that you do not
joint. This saves wear and tear on the router bits, or This gives a lighter table tool more of the feeling of a
over-cut at either end.
cutters, and saves on sharpening costs. heavy duty moulder/shaper.
The upper ends of the posts also have a tenon to join The posts should then be set together on the workshop
them to a mortise that will be cut into the underside of floor and carefully checked against the plans and each
both pieces of the benchtop. These tenons can also be other before you start cutting. In this step, it is very easy
cut very precisely on a router table. Because these to make a preventable error, so it is better to check one
tenons are not exactly centered in the ends of the posts, too many times, than one too few!
you must take care to precisely layout and mark their
position according to the plans.
To join the two back posts to the long back rail, you first 13 mm holes are also drilled in the two short upper rails
use the drill press and 30 mm Forstner bit to drill a 13 (upon which the two bench tops lie). These holes will
mm deep counter bore hole in the posts. Then you use a eventually be used to screw the bench top down onto the
13 mm wood bit centered in the hole to drill through into frame.
the center of the mortise for the back rail’s tenons.

Important: For the front posts, is is not possible to drill

the 30 mm counter-bored holes. There you only drill the
13 mm hole through the posts. The position of the hole is
also different than on the back posts (see the plans).
 In the next step, the front left post will be machined to
allow the installation of the Crisscross Parallel guide.
When using the router to cut the groove, a second
parallel fence, and stop blocks, should be used here as
well to guide the cut and prevent the router from getting
pulled or drifting out of line. It is important to set the router
so that the 16 mm straight cutter takes a maximum of 5
mm with each pass, until the design depth of 36.5 mm in
the groove is reached. The ends of the groove are then
squared off by hand with a mortise chisel.

The Crisscross-Parallel guide "Solo" model is, practically

speaking, really only possible to install when building a
new bench. With this model, you must drill an absolutely
straight and true 9.5 mm hole through the 130 mm thick
front post (leg of the frame). This can only be done
reliably with a high-quality drill press. If you want to use a
normal 9.5 mm metal bit to drill this hole, then you should
carefully mark the position of the hole across the front of
the workpiece.
If you choose to instal the “Retro” model of the In contrast to the Solo Crisscross, with the Retro model,
Crisscross-Parallel guide, you must route out the long the pivot for the top of the mechanism is attached to the
groove demonstrated on page 12 (the dimensions are leg using a massive cast iron bracket. It is installed into
identical for both models!). But for the Retro model, there the leg butting against the top of the groove (with the two
is an extra, wider, rectangular section at the top that must screw holes oriented toward the bottom of the
be cut out. This is easily done with the router, again using rectangular cut-out). Then the locations for the two screw
two parallel guides. It is a bad idea to try to cut this holes are traced and drilled out with a 6 mm bit.
groove completely by hand as the bottom of the groove
must be exactly parallel to the face of the post along its
entire length. If this is not done right, the Crisscross
mechanism cannot seat properly and will not be able to
run freely and effortlessly as designed. But the corners
and ends of the groove can be cut by hand with a chisel
with no problems.

To finish the holes, you insert a 5/16-18 inch thread tap in You then mark the position with a pencil on the table (red
a hand drill at very slow speed in the first pass, cut the arrow) and bore the hole just into the cut-out. You then
threads in the 6 mm hole. Be very careful to hold the drill turn the post over and position it exactly onto the mark on
as straight as possible, and slower is better when cutting the drill press table. (photo above) In this way you can be
threads for machine screws in wood like this. Use no sure that the hole will be straight and true. Before drilling
pressure, the weight of the drill will be plenty to get the this hole, you must make sure the drill press is exactly at
job done. When the tap reaches the bottom of the hole, a 90° angle to the table in both axis, and that the post is
put the drill in reverse and back the tap out of the hole securely held in place during drilling.
slowly, taking care to keep it straight.
For the hole to take the vise screw, you use a Forstner The nut for the acme-thread vise screw is also installed
bit to drill, 54 mm from the end of the slot, a 38 mm hole with machine screws to the back of the post. To do this,
all the way through the post. Because the hole must be you first mark off the positions of the four screws
90 mm deep, we advise you to use a forstner bit precisely in relation to the middle of the hole for the vise
designed to take a extension shaft. That way the hole screw, and then drill the marked holes with a smaller, 4,5
can be drilled straight through the post in one operation mm bit. Finally you use the same method, with a 1/4-20
(don’t forget a piece of scrap wood underneath for a inch tap and the cordless drill to cut the threads for the
clean exit hole!) To complete the hole, you accurately round head machine screws.
mark off the piece, and then re-work the hole by drilling
in again, from each side to the middle of the post.

All this sounds much more complicated than it actually is

when you do it. I found that the cordless drill gave me
better results, on the first try, than I could get using the
traditional hand wrench with the tap. It is a very good idea
Lay the acme-threaded vise nut in place place and screw to try this operation several times on off-cuts from the
it down with the machine screws provided. To do this you same wood you are using for the bench to get a good feel
will need a Allen key or wench in 5/32”. You will again for the method. I am sure you will be just as excited as I
surely be surprised by how solidly this method fixes the was with the results, especially the extreme strength of
nut in place. the method. I really did not expect it to work so well, and
the strength is higher than you could find with any normal
wood screw in the same length. Important: never try to
recut the threads, this will greatly reduce the holding
power of the threads.
Before glue up, you must cut a 10 mm wide and 3 mm
deep groove in all four bottom rails. Later, you will glue
strips of wood into the grooves to support the three
plywood panels that are laid in place loose to form the
bottom shelf.
 Once you have completed all the necessary holes and
grooves, you can now glue up a post with the top and
bottom side rails. Carefully check with a square that the
rails join the post at an exact 90° angle. Let the glue dry
for at least two hours, before you glue up the second
post. During this step, you must again check that
everything is exactly square. Even though this two-step
method takes a little longer, never try to glue up the
frame in one step, especially if you are working alone!

After letting the glue cure completely, overnight at least,

you can then peg the joints from the outside using two,
contrasting colored, 10 mm walnut dowels. To do this you
use a portable drill stand and drill two 50 mm-deep holes
into each of the joints.
Finally, put a little glue in each hole and drive the dowels
home. This step adds a nice decorative touch to the
joints, but it is also structurally very important. The pegs
add a great deal of strength to these joints, and this is
especially important for something like the frame of a
workbench, which must withstand very high stresses
during its long life.
 To attach the long rails to the side frames, you use a bed
bolt through each joint. A hole is drilled into the rail to
The front half of the benchtop has a 40 mm-thick front Because
insert you do
the round not nuts.
barrel needThe to move
nuts the
haveworkpiece,
a diameter you
of
board, which is joined to the endgrain of the right front can safely work even long and narrow boards
exactly 25 mm. If you use a bit with a diameter of 1 inch on this
end of the top using half-blind dovetails. You can kindmm)
(25,4 of saw.
this Dogivesnotyou
try the
this,perfect
under amount
any circumstances
of “play” to on
naturally cut the dovetails by hand, or, as you will see make installation easier. But it also works withfor
a normal table saw, because it is too easy a the
25 mm
here, use a “trimming” table saw. The advantage of this Forstner
workpiece
bit, if you move the bit in and out of the hole Ifa there
to tip and dangerously foul the blade!!!!
method is that you can build a jig and clamp the fewistimes
not enough
to create room between
more yourfor
clearance table
thetop andnut.
barrel the
workpiece in position on the saw’s table. Then it is just a ceiling of your workshop to clamp this board on its end,
matter of pulling the saw blade through the wood. then you can take the saw outdoors to work for this joint.
The saw blade is set at an angle of 8° for all the cuts.

YouTocan
make drillthe
thejig
holes
for this
for job,
the 127
you mm-long
simply screwbolts,twowhich
18 mm The next step is to provisionally assemble the rail in the
willpieces
later be of screwed
ply or particle
into theboard
nuts,toeven
the proper
after the
angle.
sidesAt the mortise, make sure everything is straight and square
of the
corners
frame you have
screw
been twoglued
right-angled
up. For this
pieces
the to
frames
reinforce (use a square!), and clamp everything solidly in place.
must
thebejig,supported
(they don’tfrom have underneath
to be cut at onanthe
angle
outside
as intothe Then you put a long, 13 mm auger bit in a hand drill and
keep
photo,
everything
it just looks
flat and
nicer).
square
Thistojigthe
is then
drill stand
clamped (Useexactly
a insert it into the 13 mm hole you previously bored in the
square!).
at 90° to Bethe suresawto blade
remember and then
that clamped
the positionto the
of the
table top post. Hold the drill in both hands as straight as possible,
holes
withintwo
thelever
front clamps
posts are as somewhat
shown. The different
wide boardfrom onthethe and drill the hole slowly (!!!) until you reach the hole for
positions
face of in thethejigrear
provides
posts.aCheck
stabileandsurface,
re-check
at a these
precise 90° the round nut in the rail. If everything goes well, you will
positions!
angle toItthe is not
table
necessary
top to clamp to counter
the narrow
bore workpiece
for the bolt hit the hole right in the middle. If not, you take the rail out
heads
against,
in the also
posts.
usingCounter
two clamps.
boring for the heads makes of the post, and use a normal wood bit to widen the long
them look nicer, but does not add any strength. hole enough to allow the bolt to properly thread into the
barrel nut.
The next step is to set the dovetails in the front board In this step you need to carefully position the workpiece
precisely in position against the end board (also a good against a jig, so that your 8 mm spiral cutter router bit
idea to cut it a little long), clamp everything down flat and cuts very precisely within the lines you traced for the pins.
square, and then trace the pins out on the endgrain. In To do this you need to clamp a piece of high quality,
this step, even a tenth of a millimeter counts! So it is a straight plywood about 20 cm high, 40 cm long (at least
must to use a perfectly sharpened pencil, or a sharp 24 mm thick) to the miter gauge of the router table. The
marking knife. Then you transfer the lines with a square miter gauge is set to the 8° angle. To make sure that
to the inside face of the board. nothing can move or slip when cutting, clamp stop boards
tight against each side of the workpiece.

The 40 mm-high cut outs must be made in several When you have finished all the angled cuts, then cut off
passes, with a maximum of 5 - 7 mm with each pass. To the two outside waste pieces on the trimming saw, using
make sure you do not cut too far, it is important to clamp the miter and length attachments. The middle waste
another stop board to the router table top. It is best to piece (arrow) should be cut out with a chisel, working
stay a hair’s width away from your layout lines. It would from the ends to the middle. I recommend that the front
be more than frustrating to later discover a gap in the board be cut about 10 - 15 cm too long (210-215 cm).
joint. Remember that it is not a problem to pare back the Then you have a room to recut the dovetails a second or
joint to the lines, but you can’t invisibly put wood back in even third time if the first try is less than perfect.
after it has been cut out.
On the right end of the front benchtop you must cut a ... 32 x 32 mm from each side of the benchtop to get the
tenon 40 mm thick and 32 mm long. This is best done 40 mm tenons, it is extremely important that the guide rail
with a heavy router and a guide rail using as large a bit is clamped exactly square and in the same plane. Only
as possible - 35 mm works well. Be careful that the then can the two shoulders of the tenons (arrow) be also
router stays in good contact with the rail, and that it does exactly in the same plane.
not tip one way or the other. Because you must cut a
rabbet of...

routiNg out the raBBetS For the guiDe railS oF the tail ViSe

The last, fine fitting of the dovetail joint is best made by

hand with a very finely sharpened paring chisel or two.
Finally, press the two pieces of wood together without
glue to check how closely fit the joint is. The fit should
never be too tight, because of the risk of splitting the
board along the end grain. When the fit is perfect, the
joint will go together with light taps.
The guide rails for the tail, or wagon, vise need to be Then use a router with a big straight cutter and the
installed in rabbets on the underside of the benchtop, and previous setup of two parallel fences to gradually cut out,
the next step is to cut them out using a router with a big the rabbets to a depth of 52 mm. You can see now why it
straight cutter. First mark out the areas to be worked (59 is important to clamp the front board, although it is 40
mm wide and 360 mm long). Clamp on the front board mm thick, with a temporary board. This is another
with the dovetails (no glue at this point!) using heavy instance where you need to make many shallow passes,
clamps. At the edge of the bench, where there is a gap cutting a maximum of 5 mm deep each time. This
between the dovetails and the tenon, clamp a scrap of protects the router, and especially the expensive router
wood under the tenon to bear upon the dovetails to bit.
maintain the gap. Now you can use another clamp to
secure the front board to the rest of the benchtop at the
dovetailed end.
This is how the finished rabbets for the wagon vise
should look. In this photo you can again easily see the
temporary strip of wood clamped to stabilize the front
board at the dovetailed end while you were routing out
the area for the wagon vise mechanism. Now you
unclamp the front board, and cut the waste from the big
tenon, (outlined in red) using a hand saw.
The mortise to take the tenon on the end of the benchtop The two holes for the bed bolts to join the end board are
is cut using a router and a 16 mm straight cutter. Here drilled with a 9,5 mm drill bit. The back hole is then
again you use two parallel fences on the router to keep slightly enlarged to an oval shape with a rat-tail file to
the cut accurate. In this step you should first leave a little allow enough room for the bench to “work,” to swell and
wood inside your layout lines, and then test the fit, cut, shrink with changes in humidity.
and retest the fit of the mortise on the tenon. Here also,
the fit is optimal when you need only very light taps with
your hand to drive the joint closed.
For the vise screw hole, you first use a 45 mm Forstner
bit to cut a counter bored hole (maximum of 5 mm deep)
that will later take the washer. Then you use a 38 mm
Forstner bit to drill the hole for the vise screw all the way
through the board.
 To install the long round barrel nuts, (red arrows) drill two
22 mm diameter and 70 mm deep holes in the underside
of the benchtop. Then test to make sure the bolts mate
properly with the round nuts. If needed, you can slightly
enlarge the bolt holes in the tenon. Once the bolts are
fitted and everything is clamped precisely in position, you
can also test install the tail vise mechanism to make sure
everything is right, that the areas routed out are properly
dimensioned and that the threaded plate has enough
space on all sides to move freely along the length of the
screw.

To stabilize the dovetail joint, drill a 10 mm hole 90 mm

deep through the exact middle of the joint from the
underside of the benchtop. Pour a little glue into the hole
and drive a 10 mm grooved dowel into the hole.

To eliminate the possibility that the front board could slip In order that the heavy clamps do not bear directly on the
out of position during glue up, it is a very good idea to newly planed surfaces, you should plan on two other
install a couple of size 10 biscuits into the joint to keep boards to be used as clamping pads both above and
everything lined up properly. This makes glue-up go below during the glue-up. I did not bother to put any glue
easier and faster, and can save a lot of time and touch-up on the dovetail joint, because there was no play at all. But
work on the benchtop later. Before applying the glue, it is to keep the joint from moving over time, I drilled a 10 mm
absolutely necessary to make a dry fitting without glue. hole from the underneath (see next page) and pegged
Then when everything is properly fit and lined up, lay out the joint together. Of course the dovetail joint can also be
everything you will need to glue up the front and side glued. Again, after glue-up the top should be left
boards close to hand, and if possible ask a second overnight for the glue to cure properly.
person to help you.
 Lay the two guide rails with the sliding threaded plate on
the underside of the bench, and mark off their position on
the wood with a sharp pencil. Do not leave any space
between the rails and the sliding plate!

Next route out, using the parallel guide fence and a 16 To route out the second groove, stick the adapter on the
mm straight cutter bit, the front groove, or rabbet, which other side of the router (red arrow), so that it will ride
is 19 mm wide and 6 mm deep in the underside of the solidly on the front board of the benchtop. In this way the
benchtop. So that the router stays flat and level to the machine cannot tip and you can cut the second 19x6 mm
bottom of the benchtop and doesn’t tip into the cut-out, groove in under the benchtop. Then lay the two guide
attach a level-guide adapter to the router (red arrow). rails and the sliding plate in the grooves and check how
This attachment rides at exactly the level of the bottom easily the sliding plate can move. The plate should move
of the router. If your router does not have this kind of freely but without play in between the two rails - about a
adapter, you can make one fairly simply out of plywood, half a millimeter of air on each side. If the plate binds at
or simply clamp a strip of wood of the proper thickness all, then use the fine adjustment on the parallel fence and
for the parallel guide bars to ride on. take another very thin pass with the router to slightly
widen the inside rabbet.
Finally, screw the guide rails in place in the rabbets
with the screws included in the kit. With hardwoods,
especially the hard maple in this example, pre-drilling
pilot holes is an absolute must.
Screw the vise screw into the threaded plate and lay the
big washer in its 45 mm hole. Finally, place the diamond-
shaped flange over the end of the vise screw. The spindle
and washer will have some play in their fit so that you can
line up the vise screw to run exactly parallel to the guide
rails. This is very important to allow the vise to glide
evenly along the entire length of the rails. If the vise
screw is not well-aligned, the sliding plate will not be able
to move along the entire length of the rails, but will tend
to hang up somewhere.
To locate the posts’ end tenons precisely in the underside Then you rough cut the middle part with a jigsaw and
of the benchtop, you should again use the router with a then use a router with a trimming cutter to trim the cutout
16 mm straight cutter in combination with a pattern or portion exactly to size. In this step the ring bearing runs
template to guide the cut. The dimensions of the tenons on the boards you screwed down to the plywood. You
are exactly 80 x 45 mm. If you use a 30 mm guide cannot find a quicker, simpler, and more precise way to
bushing together with a 16mm straight cutter in a make this kind of shop tool.
template, (30 - 16 = 14 mm offset), you will need a pattern
cut out to exactly (80 + 14) x (45 + 14), so 94 x 59 mm. To
make the template, first you plane a couple of thin boards
to exactly 59 mm wide, and screw them down to the
template so that you have a space exactly 94 x 59 mm
(photo above).

In order that the template always sits in the same

position, screw down another lath underneath to act as a
stop. Then you carefully draw the positions for the
mortises on the undersides of the benchtops, carefully
place your template on the wood, and use the router with
theBe30careful
mm guide bushing
to make sureand
the theend16 of mm straight cutter
the diamond on the Even though the type of drill stand shown here is not very
to cut
left the
sidemortises 27 mm
is positioned so deep. Thesomewhat
it is tilted rounded corners
up (see precise, it works just fine for this kind of job. In any case,
canphoto).
then be Thesquared offthen
left hole withisa closer
mortisetochisel. Finally,
the middle you
of the it is better to use such a stand than to try to bore the
putend
the plate
two benchtops
and the righton one
the posts’
near the tenons andThis
bottom. thenmeans holes free-hand.
screw
that the
the tops down will
two holes withbefour
free9,5 in xthe
127 mmyou
area wafer headout
routed
screws
for the (Attention: Torx 50!!!).
vise mechanism, andInyou thiscanstep, youeasily
then absolutely
slip the
must drill pilotand
U-washer holes
nutsand
overusethea ends
little grease on the
of the bolts and tighten
screws!
them down. The 8 mm holes you need for the bolts are
best drilled in the end plate using a portable drill stand.
First, a 19 mm hole is drilled into the moving head for the
wagon vise to take a bench dog. After that you saw, in
the back underside of the head a 51 mm high and 25 mm
wide notch for the threaded vise plate. Then the head is
screwed to the plate with the screws provided for this
(also in this piece, drill pilot holes for the screws)
Important: The wooden head must be just slightly thinner
than the slot so that it can glide easily.
The chop for the tail vise should be cut about a millimeter
longer than necessary so that it can be planed back later
to precisely level with the bench top.
 The vise screw for the leg vise is guided both by the nut
at the back of the post, and a plastic plate bushing set
into the face of the post. This square plate is centered
directly over the hole in the post for the vise screw. To do
this job it is also best to use a template and a router with
the 30 mm guide bushing and the 16 mm straight cutter.
The design depth for the plate’s mortise is 12.7 mm, but
it is fine to cut it to 13 mm because in no case can the
plate stick out from the face of the post. You need to
allow about 2 mm of space all around the plastic plate.

The hole in the plastic bushing is slightly oval and the The bushing is installed with the machine screws
plate should be installed so that the long dimension of the provided, and so you must here also drill and tap into the
oval is perpendicular or up-and-down in the mortise. The wood. Because there is a couple of millimeters space
screw then has a little space to move up and down, around the plastic plate, you can later adjust it slightly for
making the vise easier to move. Horizontally - left to right- perfect alignment with the vise screw.
the screw fits perfectly in the plate, reducing greatly any
side-to-side movement.
The vise chop is 130 mm wide at the bottom and 240 mm Now you can use a clamp to clamp those extra boards to
wide at the top. If you - to save a little wood - plan to get the sides, and then clamp the top of the template
to the 240 mm width at the top by gluing short boards on normally (see photo). This method solidly fixes the
each side, then you cannot use the double parallel fence template to the workpiece, and you can take your time
method used elsewhere on the bench. In this case it is and cut the groove for the Crisscross guide using many
best to use a template here too, and then route out the shallow passes with the router. If you choose to use one
groove using a straight cutter and a guide bushing. A piece of wood 240 mm wide for the chop, then you do not
clamp at the base of the board would interfere with the have to make the template, and can simply route the
router, so the best way is to screw, left and right, laths groove using the double parallel guide set up. (look at pg.
that touch the sides of the board at the narrow end. 12 for this).

For the vise screw hole in the board, drill first a hole with
a 45 mm Forstner bit a maximum of 5 mm deep to take
the round washer. Then you drill a 38 mm hole through
the chop for the vise screw.
The diamond-shaped flange here will be mounted exactly
level and centered over the vise screw hole. Mark, drill
and tap the threads in the holes in the chop board for the
two 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 machine screws.
With the Crisscross-Parallel guide, model "Solo," the
arms will be fixed to the post and the vise chop with a
9,5 mm diameter steel rod. This type of parallel guide is
less expensive than the “Retro” model, but can only be
recommended to those who have, or have access to the
proper machinery to drill in the chop board, a perfectly
straight 9,5 mm hole through the width of the 240 mm-
wide vise chop so that the rod can be driven in. If you
don’t have a big, high quality drill press, then the “Retro”
model of the Crisscross will work just as well.

Install the two arms of the Crisscross on the post and the
vise chop, and then turn the vise screw a little ways into
the post. Install the diamond shaped flange on the vise
chop and the end of the vise screw. Bring the two arms of
the Crisscross together in the middle so that you can
push the short axel pin (with the spring retaining ring)
through the holes. Before you stick the second retaining
ring to secure the axel, you should first install the hand
wheel on the end of the vise screw, and test the vise
assembly.
The original building plan, which was developed by
Benchcrafted, called for square benchdog holes. We
however have opted for standard 19 mm round holes
and round brass dogs. Much more versatile, the round
holes can also be used to accept a wide variety of other
options for clamping workpieces and tools to the
benchtop. These holes are easily and accurately bored
with a drill stand. To do this, you turn the column 180°,
away from the stand’s table, which is clamped to the
benchtop using the slot between the two tops. If you
clamp a straight board to the top at the proper distance
from the front edge, you can then drill a very straight and
accurate line of dog holes.

The sliding deadman runs on a triangular track glued to

the bottom front rail, which allows it to be slid back and If everything works smoothly and easily, close the chop
forth between the two posts. At the top a tenon runs in a completely. Then mark both the top of the bench, and
16 mm wide and 36 mm deep slot in the underside of the the width of the post on the back of the chop (see photos
front board of the benchtop. The triangular track can be above). Then remove the chop and saw it to its finished
fixed to the rail using a few screws, or as we will show dimensions and desired form. One the internet, you can
here, can be glued down. find a wide variety of shapes for leg vise chops. They
range from simple, and purely functional, to any number
This diagram shows the of lovely decorative patterns. Let yourself be inspired by
dimensions of the track in the choices, or you can just follow the dimensions we
cross-section. Total length give in the building plan.
(1055 mm).

2
7
If the drill bit extension is not long enough to drill all the
way through the benchtop, you can use the simple
portable drill stand to finish the last bit at the bottom of
the holes. It is important in either case to clamp scraps of
wood under the benchtop where the bit will exit so that
the bit does not tear out the wood as it emerges.

The bottom end of the deadman has a triangular channel

cut along it to fit over the track. This channel can also be
cut safely and precisely using a “trimming saw.” To do
this, you mark out the triangular channel on the bottom of
the sides of the board, set the saw to 45° and clamp the
board to the rip fence on the saw’s table. Adjust the fence
and the saw blade height to exactly match the marks, and
saw the channel with two cuts (turning the board around
for the second cut) to remove a triangular section out of
the bottom edge of the deadman.
At the top edge, a rabbet is cut in the deadman to create
a long tenon to slide in the 16 mm slot in the underside
of the benchtop front. The tenon is cut back, or relieved
slightly at its base using a rabbet plane...
... so that it easily can be slid at an angle into the guide
slot in the benchtop, but you should be careful to leave
10 - 12 mm at the top untouched so that there is not too
much play between the tenon and the slot when you use
the deadman.
The bottom edge of the deadman sits on the triangular The saw marks can then be cleaned up using a sanding
track. The face of the deadman should be flush with, or drum in the drill press.
sit just a little back from, the rail and the front edge of the
benchtop.

Next you mark out and drill the 19 mm holes in the

deadman using a drill stand. Then the contours in the
edges of the deadman are cut.
First, cut a rabbet in a batten, 25 mm high and 18
mm thick so that you leave a rectangular section that
precisely fits the groove that was routed into the long
rails. (see diagram). The battens are also notched
underneath to allow clearance for the round nuts for
the bed bolts joining the rails to the posts. Then
spread a coat of glue and use as many clamps as
you have to clamp the battens in the grooves.
 The shelf is made out of three stable pieces of 18 mm
birch multiplex plywood. They are half-lapped at the joints
between the pieces. The two outside pieces are also
notched to clear the posts. They are just set in place to
allow removal if needed.

The plane or bench hook board is made of three layers Finally you brush some glue on the middle pieces, and
glued together. The two outer strips run the length of the lay the second long strip in place. Then the assembly is
board, and the middle layer is made up of short pieces carefully clamped up and is best left overnight for the
of wood. In use, you can temporarily store a variety of glue to set properly.
different kinds of tools in the slots formed. To help
prevent the pieces from slipping out of place during glue- If you place the finished board in the slot between the
up, you will put, with the glue, two short screws to join two bench tops, it will stick about 15 mm above the top.
the pieces to one of the long strips. When finished, the To allow it to sit flush to the benchtop, set it into the slot
screws will not be visible, and really do a lot to make the even with the ends of the bench, and from underneath
glue-up much simpler. the bench, mark the position of the two upper side rails
on the bottom of the board. Then you remove the board,
I chose American Walnut to make the piece. I think the and cut out notches, exactly 15 mm deep and the width
wood makes a lovely contrast to the very light maple of the rails. In this way, depending on which edge you
wood. You can, naturally, use any other kind of wood that insert into the bench, the board can stick up as a stop, or
you would like. lie flush with the top.
The square plastic bushing stabilizes the lateral play in
the vise screw. By moving it slightly left or right, you can
minimize, slightly, any play. It is not possible to eliminate
it all together, and with an acme screw like this a little
movement is completely normal, and this does not hinder
the function in any way.
1. Lubricating:
If you have installed everything correctly, the vise screw
and the chop should move easily in and out without
needing any kind of oil. But the the Benchcrafted vises
will work even better with a light oiling. Commonly found
light spray oils, like WD 40, work just fine, but the best
choice is a spray based on PTFE - the non-stick material
in Teflon coatings. Also spray a little into the hole in the
diamond-shaped plate on the face of vise. This will help
the end of the screw turn easier in the flange.

2. Clamping power:
In order to allow the leg vise to develop its optimal
clamping power, the chop must be at least 70 mm thick.
More than 80 mm does not help significantly, and of
course adds weight to the chop. A second potential issue
with the vise is that when it is closed against the
benchtop, there should be a slight gap between the
bottom end of the chop and the post (see arrow). If you
turn the hand wheel another 1/4 turn, the gap will close
slightly. This slight flexibility in the mechanism allows a
consistent, and high, clamping pressure to be applied
over the whole range of the vise’s clamping width. This
allows the vise to perform well, no matter how small, thin,
or thick the workpiece might be. If you cut the slot for the
Crisscross exactly 36.5 mm deep along its entire length,
the gap between the chop and the post should be perfect.
If the slot is a little too deep, and there is a tiny gap or
none at all, you can, with the “Retro” Crisscross, insert a
small spacer under the two blocks joining the arms to the
post and the chop.

Putting shims under the two metal plates the ends of the
arms rest upon will also increase the gap at the bottom of
the vise, and create more clamping power at the top of
the vise. With the “Solo” Crisscross, this is the only way
to tune the clamping area. With the “Retro” model, you
should shim both at the top and the bottom of the arms.
 In the following pages, you will find a
three-dimensional drawing for the back
and front of every post with all the the
necessary dimensions. The two long rails
and the short rails for the side frames are
also drawn with the tenon dimensions. I
deliberately did not compile a material or
cut list, so that you do not blindly just start
rough cutting all the parts out. With some
parts, the face board and the end board
or clamp, for instance, it is smart to cut
them a little longer than their final
dimensions, and then later, when the
joints are well made, to cut them to their
finished lengths.

On this topic, it is extremely important,

before you start cutting and building, to
carefully read and study the plans and
instructions to familiarize yourself with
every detail of the bench and building
process.

Post with slot for the

“Retro”Crisscross Parallel
Guide
3
2
Left front Post with slot
dimensions for the Solo-
Crisscross Slot depth =
36,5 mm Vise screw hole =
Ø 38 mm
 Hole diagram for the 9,5 mm
hole to take the steel pivot rod
for the Solo-Crisscross, the
given dimensions are also used
for the vise’s chop.

Left front post

A few especially important dimensions,

that for reasons of clarity, are not found in
the drawings:

1. The slot depth for both models of the

Crisscross parallel guides is exactly
36,5 mm.

2. The mortise depth for the 16 mm wide

tenons is 53 mm (always about 3 mm
deeper than the length of the tenon.

3. The mortise depth for the big front rail is

23 mm (20 + 3).

4. The diameter of the hole for the vise

screw is 38 mm.

5. The diameter of the holes for the bed

bolts to join the long rails is 13 mm.
Left front post, with slot Many dimensions are also given in the
dimensions for the Retro- text of the building instructions, which you
Crisscross parallel guide must carefully read until you are familiar
with every part and step.
For the right front post, here are some
additional dimensions:
1. The mortise depth for the 16 mm wide
tenons is 53 mm (always about 3 mm
more than the length of the matching
tenon.

2. The mortise depth for the big front rail is

23 mm (20 + 3).

3. The holes for the bed bolts to join the

long rails is 13 mm.
 Front right post

1. For the back posts The mortise depth

for the 16 mm wide tenons is 53 mm
(always about 3 mm more than the length
of the matching tenon).

2. Attention, the mortise depth for the

narrow back long rail is also 53 mm (50 +
3).

3. The diameter of the holes for the bed

bolts to join the long rails is 13 mm. If
you would like to counter bore for the
head of the bolts in the posts, (not
necessary), then you will need to drill a
first hole 30 mm x 13 mm deep. (see the
text in the instructions).

Back left post

The mortise depths and hole diameters
are the same dimensions as given above
for the back left post.

Important for all posts:

The upper tenons, which later will fit into
the bench top, are not exactly in the
middle of the end of the post. The tenons
have, in relation to the outside of the post,
a setback of 30 mm and on the inside only
15 mm. Left and right on the narrow sides
of the posts, there is an offset of 25 mm,
with both sides the same. When cutting
the tenons in post tops, it is very easy to
make a mistake. So take extra care with
the layout, check and double check,
standing the posts oriented like they will be
in the bench together, and making sure the
tenons are correct.

Important advice!
The front long rail, at 80 mm, is
much thicker than the narrower rear
rail, which is 45 mm. You need a
thickness of at least 77 mm for the
bed bolt hole to clear the slot cut out
for the Crisscross arms.
Detail of the front benchtop
(View from underneath!) with
dimensions for the cutouts for
the tail vise mechanism
 View of end board from
front and underneath!

Front board with dovetails

View from underneath!
Chop, rear view
With dimensions of the slot for the
View of end board from
“Solo” Crisscross:Routing depth
back
for the slot and underneath!
= 36,5 mmDiameter of
the vise screw hole = 38 mm
Chop front view
Hole for vise screw:
Counter bored hole Ø
45 x 5 mm deep
Vise screw hole Ø 38 mm
 With dimensions of the slot for the “Retro” Crisscross: Routing depth for the slot =
36,5 mm Diameter of the vise screw hole = 38 mm

Chop, rear view

Chop for the wagon vise

Hole diameter for the round bench dogs = 19 mm
With a height of 105 mm, the moving chop will stand
proud of the benchtop and can then be planed back
precisely to flush and level with the benchtop. The
thickness should be such that, without having
significant play, the chop can move freely in its slot.
Rabbet dimensions
Top of deadman
Slot dimensions
Bottom of Deadman
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愀渀搀㐀㔀洀洀琀栀椀挀欀⸀
椀琀栀琀栀攀猀挀爀攀眀猀椀渀挀氀甀搀攀搀椀渀琀
渀最攀爀琀栀愀渀渀攀挀攀猀猀愀爀礀猀漀琀栀愀琀椀琀
琀攀渀漀渀琀漀猀氀椀搀攀椀渀琀栀攀㄀㘀洀洀猀氀漀琀 渀猀琀琀栀攀昀攀渀挀攀琀漀瀀氀愀渀攀琀栀攀渀愀爀爀
琀椀瀀氀攀砀瀀氀礀眀漀漀搀
眀愀礀琀栀爀漀甀最栀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀
渀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀 ⸀吀栀攀礀愀爀攀栀愀氀昀
挀栀琀漀瀀甀猀椀渀最爀漀甀渀搀戀爀愀猀猀戀攀渀 Ⰰ 礀漀甀
Ⰰ 戀甀琀礀漀甀猀栀漀甀氀搀 ⴀ
攀 Ⰰ 琀栀攀戀攀猀琀眀愀礀椀猀琀漀甀猀攀愀栀愀渀搀猀 猀 Ⰰ 椀琀椀猀攀砀琀爀攀洀攀氀礀椀洀瀀漀爀琀愀渀琀琀
渀搀挀愀爀攀昀甀氀氀礀挀栀攀挀欀攀搀愀最愀椀渀猀琀
漀渀猀漀渀愀爀漀甀琀攀爀琀愀戀氀攀甀猀椀渀最琀
氀甀攀琀漀最攀琀栀攀爀 Ⰰ 礀漀甀搀漀渀漀琀栀愀瘀攀琀
栀攀欀椀琀⸀圀椀琀栀栀愀爀搀眀漀漀搀猀
挀愀渀戀攀瀀氀愀渀攀搀戀愀挀欀氀愀琀攀爀琀漀瀀爀攀 Ⰰ 攀猀瀀攀 漀眀攀爀猀椀搀攀昀氀愀琀愀渀搀猀焀甀愀爀攀
氀愀瀀瀀攀搀愀琀琀栀攀樀漀椀渀琀猀戀攀琀眀攀攀渀琀
挀栀搀漀最猀⸀
戀攀挀愀爀攀昀甀氀琀漀氀攀愀瘀攀㄀　ⴀ㄀㈀洀洀愀琀 ⸀䤀渀琀栀
椀渀琀栀攀甀渀搀攀爀猀椀搀攀漀昀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀
愀眀琀漀爀漀甀最栀 ⴀ 挀甀琀琀栀攀樀漀椀渀琀猀 Ⰰ⸀⸀⸀ 挀愀渀甀猀攀琀栀攀猀椀洀瀀氀攀瀀漀爀琀愀戀氀攀搀爀
栀愀琀琀栀攀最甀椀搀攀爀愀椀氀椀猀挀氀愀洀瀀攀搀攀
琀栀攀瀀氀愀渀猀愀渀搀攀愀挀栀漀琀栀攀爀戀攀昀漀爀
栀攀洀椀琀攀爀最愀甀最攀⸀
漀甀猀攀挀氀愀洀瀀椀渀最瀀愀搀猀琀漀瀀爀漀琀攀挀琀
挀椀愀氀氀礀琀栀攀栀愀爀搀洀愀瀀氀攀椀渀琀栀椀
挀椀猀攀氀礀氀攀瘀攀氀眀椀琀栀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀
漀瀀昀爀漀渀琀 椀猀眀愀礀琀栀攀琀眀漀猀椀搀攀猀愀爀攀昀氀愀琀愀渀
⸀吀栀攀琀攀渀漀渀椀猀挀甀琀戀愀挀欀 Ⰰ 栀攀瀀椀攀挀攀猀 ⸀吀栀攀琀眀漀漀甀琀猀椀搀攀瀀椀攀挀
椀氀氀猀琀愀渀搀琀漀昀椀渀椀猀栀琀栀攀氀愀猀琀戀椀
琀栀攀琀漀瀀甀渀琀漀甀挀栀攀搀猀漀琀栀愀琀琀栀攀爀
砀愀挀琀氀礀猀焀甀愀爀攀愀渀搀椀渀琀栀攀猀愀洀攀瀀
攀礀漀甀猀琀愀爀琀挀甀琀琀椀渀最⸀䤀渀琀栀椀猀猀琀
琀栀攀眀漀漀搀 ⸀吀栀攀猀琀椀氀氀 ⴀ 爀愀眀漀甀琀攀爀猀
猀攀砀愀洀瀀氀攀 Ⰰ 瀀爀攀 ⴀ 搀爀椀氀氀椀渀最瀀椀
瀀⸀ 搀猀焀甀愀爀攀琀漀攀愀挀栀漀琀栀攀爀
攀猀愀爀攀愀氀猀漀渀漀琀挀栀攀搀琀漀挀氀攀愀爀琀栀 ⸀吀栀攀渀礀漀甀
漀爀爀攀氀椀攀瘀攀搀猀氀椀最栀琀氀礀愀琀椀琀猀戀愀 琀愀琀琀栀攀戀漀琀琀漀洀漀昀琀栀攀栀漀氀攀猀
攀椀猀渀漀琀琀漀漀洀甀挀栀瀀氀愀礀戀攀琀眀攀攀渀琀
攀瀀 Ⰰ 椀琀椀猀瘀攀爀礀攀愀猀礀琀漀洀愀欀攀愀瀀爀
氀愀渀攀 ⸀伀渀氀礀琀栀攀渀挀愀渀琀栀攀琀眀漀猀栀漀甀 ⸀䤀琀椀
椀搀攀猀挀愀渀琀栀攀渀戀攀瀀氀愀渀攀搀琀漀琀栀攀椀
氀漀琀栀漀氀攀猀椀猀愀渀愀戀猀漀氀甀琀攀洀甀猀
猀攀甀猀椀渀最愀爀愀戀戀攀琀瀀氀愀渀攀⸀⸀⸀ 爀甀渀琀栀攀瀀漀猀琀琀栀爀漀甀最栀琀栀攀琀栀椀挀欀
攀瀀漀猀琀猀 ⸀吀栀攀礀愀爀攀樀甀猀琀猀攀琀椀渀瀀氀愀
猀椀洀瀀漀爀琀愀渀琀椀渀攀椀琀栀攀爀挀愀猀攀琀漀挀
栀攀琀攀渀漀渀愀渀搀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀眀栀攀渀礀漀甀甀
氀搀攀爀猀漀昀琀栀攀琀攀渀漀渀猀⠀愀爀爀漀眀
攀瘀攀渀琀愀戀氀攀攀爀爀漀爀 Ⰰ 猀漀椀琀椀猀戀攀琀 ⤀戀攀
爀昀椀渀愀氀搀椀洀攀渀猀椀漀渀猀愀昀琀攀爀琀栀攀最
琀⸀ 渀攀猀猀瀀氀愀渀攀爀 Ⰰ 昀椀爀猀琀琀栀攀渀愀爀爀漀眀
挀攀琀漀愀氀氀漀眀爀攀洀漀瘀愀氀椀昀渀攀攀搀攀搀⸀
氀愀洀瀀猀挀爀愀瀀猀漀昀眀漀漀搀甀渀搀攀爀琀栀攀戀
猀攀琀栀攀搀攀愀搀洀愀渀⸀
愀氀猀漀攀砀愀挀琀氀礀椀渀琀栀攀猀愀洀攀瀀氀愀渀攀⸀
琀攀爀琀漀挀栀攀挀欀漀渀攀琀漀漀洀愀渀礀琀椀洀攀猀
氀甀攀栀愀猀昀甀氀氀礀挀甀爀攀搀⠀漀瘀攀爀渀椀最栀 猀椀搀攀 Ⰰ 愀渀搀昀椀渀椀猀栀戀礀瀀氀愀渀椀渀最琀栀
攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀眀栀攀爀攀琀栀攀戀椀琀眀椀氀氀攀砀椀
Ⰰ 琀栀愀渀漀渀攀琀漀漀昀攀眀℀
琀 Ⰰ 愀琀氀攀愀猀琀℀猀攀攀瀀栀漀琀漀愀戀漀瘀攀⤀吀 攀眀椀搀攀爀猀椀搀攀琀漀琀栀攀挀漀爀爀攀挀琀搀椀洀
琀猀漀琀栀愀琀琀栀攀戀椀琀搀漀攀猀渀漀琀琀攀愀爀漀
漀搀漀琀栀椀猀礀漀甀昀椀爀猀琀樀漀椀渀琀琀栀攀眀椀 攀渀猀椀漀渀椀渀琀栀攀琀栀椀挀欀渀攀猀猀攀爀⸀
甀琀琀栀攀眀漀漀搀愀猀椀琀攀洀攀爀最攀猀⸀
搀攀爀猀椀搀攀漀昀琀栀攀瀀漀猀琀 Ⰰ⸀⸀⸀

䰀攀昀琀昀爀漀渀琀瀀
漀猀琀
吀栀攀䠀椀最栀氀椀最栀琀漀昀琀栀椀猀戀攀渀挀栀椀猀
䰀攀昀琀昀爀漀渀琀倀漀猀 吀栀攀琀眀漀栀漀氀攀猀昀漀爀琀栀攀戀攀搀戀漀氀琀
琀栀攀攀砀琀爀攀洀攀氀礀猀洀漀漀琀栀愀渀搀焀甀椀挀
琀眀椀琀栀猀氀漀琀搀椀洀
䄀猀氀漀琀琀攀搀戀漀愀爀搀昀椀琀猀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀 猀琀漀樀漀椀渀琀栀攀攀渀搀戀漀愀爀搀愀爀攀搀爀椀
䈀攀挀愀甀猀攀琀栀攀戀漀愀爀搀猀琀愀渀搀猀㄀㔀洀
欀氀礀愀搀樀甀猀琀愀戀氀攀氀攀最瘀椀猀攀
攀渀猀椀漀渀猀昀漀爀琀栀
戀攀琀眀攀攀渀琀栀攀琀眀漀猀攀挀琀椀漀渀猀漀昀琀 Ⰰ 眀栀椀挀 氀氀攀搀眀椀琀栀愀㤀 Ⰰ 㔀洀洀搀爀椀氀氀戀椀琀
洀瀀爀漀甀搀漀昀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀 ⸀吀栀
Ⰰ 椀琀挀愀
攀匀漀氀漀 ⴀ 䌀爀椀猀猀挀
栀椀猀挀愀瀀愀戀氀攀漀昀瘀攀爀礀栀椀最栀挀氀愀洀瀀
栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀⸀䌀栀椀猀攀氀猀 Ⰰ 猀愀眀猀 Ⰰ 攀 攀戀愀挀欀栀漀氀攀椀猀琀栀攀渀猀氀椀最栀琀氀礀攀
渀愀氀猀漀戀攀甀猀攀搀愀猀愀猀愀眀猀琀漀瀀 Ⰰ 眀栀
椀渀最瀀爀攀猀猀甀爀攀猀⸀
爀漀猀猀匀氀漀琀搀攀瀀琀 渀氀愀爀最攀搀琀漀愀渀漀瘀愀氀猀栀愀瀀攀眀椀琀栀
䌀栀漀瀀 Ⰰ 爀攀愀爀瘀椀
琀挀 Ⰰ 挀愀渀戀攀琀攀洀瀀漀爀愀爀椀氀礀猀琀漀爀攀 䌀栀漀瀀昀爀漀渀琀瘀椀 䌀栀漀瀀 Ⰰ 爀攀愀爀瘀椀
椀氀攀挀甀琀琀椀渀最琀栀攀猀栀漀甀氀搀攀爀猀漀昀
栀㴀 ㌀㘀 Ⰰ 㔀洀洀嘀椀猀攀
搀椀渀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀猀眀栀椀氀攀椀渀甀猀攀 Ⰰ 愀渀 愀爀愀琀
愀琀攀渀漀渀ⴀ 琀愀椀氀昀椀氀攀琀漀愀氀氀漀眀攀渀漀甀
Ⰰ 昀漀爀椀渀猀琀愀渀挀攀⸀
攀眀
圀椀琀栀搀椀洀攀渀猀椀漀渀猀漀 攀眀
䠀漀氀攀昀漀爀瘀椀猀攀猀 攀眀
猀挀爀攀眀栀漀氀攀㴀�㌀
搀琀栀攀戀漀愀爀搀洀愀欀攀猀愀栀愀渀搀礀瀀氀愀挀 最栀爀漀漀洀昀漀爀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀 ᰠ 眀漀爀欀
昀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀昀漀爀琀栀攀 ᰠ 䌀漀甀渀琀攀爀戀漀
挀爀攀眀㨀
㠀洀洀
攀琀漀猀攀琀瀀氀愀渀攀猀猀漀琀栀愀琀琀栀攀椀爀椀 爀攀搀栀漀氀攀�㐀 Ⰰᴠ 琀漀猀眀攀氀氀愀渀搀猀栀爀椀渀欀眀椀琀栀挀栀愀
匀漀氀漀 ᴠ 䌀爀椀猀猀挀爀漀猀猀
爀漀渀猀愀爀攀瀀爀漀琀攀挀琀攀搀愀渀搀搀漀渀漀琀 㔀砀㔀洀洀搀攀攀瀀 渀最攀猀椀渀栀甀洀椀搀椀琀礀⸀
嘀椀猀攀猀挀爀攀眀栀漀氀
㨀刀漀甀琀椀渀最搀攀瀀琀栀昀漀
洀愀爀琀栀攀猀甀爀昀愀挀攀漀昀琀栀攀琀漀瀀⸀
爀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀㴀㌀㘀 Ⰰ 㔀洀洀 攀� ㌀ 㠀洀洀
䐀椀愀洀攀琀攀爀漀昀琀栀攀瘀椀 吀栀攀爀漀甀渀搀攀搀攀渀搀猀漀昀琀栀攀洀漀爀琀椀
猀攀猀挀爀攀眀栀漀氀攀㴀㌀㠀洀 猀攀猀愀爀攀琀栀攀渀猀焀甀愀爀攀搀漀昀昀甀猀椀渀
洀 最愀挀栀椀猀攀氀 ⸀䄀氀琀攀爀渀愀琀椀瘀攀氀礀礀漀甀
吀栀攀戀甀猀栀椀渀最椀猀椀渀猀琀愀氀氀攀搀眀椀琀栀
吀栀攀猀愀眀洀愀爀欀猀挀愀渀琀栀攀渀戀攀挀氀攀愀渀
䘀漀爀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀猀挀爀攀眀栀漀氀攀椀渀琀栀攀戀 挀愀渀愀氀猀漀挀愀爀攀昀甀氀氀礀爀漀甀渀搀琀栀攀
吀栀攀搀椀愀洀漀渀搀 ⴀ 猀栀愀瀀攀搀昀氀愀渀最攀栀攀 Ⰰ
琀栀攀洀愀挀栀椀渀攀猀挀爀攀眀猀瀀爀漀瘀椀搀攀搀
攀搀甀瀀甀猀椀渀最愀猀愀渀搀椀渀最搀爀甀洀椀渀琀栀
漀愀爀搀 Ⰰ 搀爀椀氀氀昀椀爀猀琀愀栀漀氀攀眀椀琀栀愀 攀渀搀猀漀昀琀栀攀琀攀渀漀渀猀眀椀琀栀愀昀椀氀攀
爀攀眀椀氀氀戀攀洀漀甀渀琀攀搀攀砀愀挀琀氀礀氀攀瘀
愀渀搀猀漀礀漀甀洀甀猀琀栀攀爀攀愀氀猀漀搀爀椀氀氀
㄀㌀洀洀栀漀氀攀猀愀爀攀愀氀猀漀搀爀椀氀氀攀搀椀渀
攀搀爀椀氀氀瀀爀攀猀猀⸀
㐀㔀洀洀䘀漀爀猀琀渀攀爀戀椀琀愀洀愀砀椀洀甀洀漀昀 琀漀最攀琀愀最漀漀搀昀椀琀 ⸀䄀渀漀琀栀攀爀瀀爀愀挀
攀氀愀渀搀挀攀渀琀攀爀攀搀漀瘀攀爀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀猀
琀栀攀琀眀漀猀栀漀爀琀甀瀀瀀攀爀爀愀椀氀猀⠀甀瀀漀
愀渀搀琀愀瀀椀渀琀漀琀栀攀眀漀漀搀 ⸀䈀攀挀愀甀猀攀琀
㔀洀洀搀攀攀瀀琀漀琀愀欀攀琀栀攀爀漀甀渀搀眀愀猀栀 琀椀挀愀氀猀漀氀甀琀椀漀渀椀猀琀漀甀猀攀愀渀㠀洀
挀爀攀眀栀漀氀攀 ⸀䴀愀爀欀 Ⰰ 搀爀椀氀氀愀渀搀琀愀瀀琀
栀攀爀攀椀猀愀挀漀甀瀀氀攀漀昀洀椀氀氀椀洀攀琀攀爀
渀眀栀椀挀栀琀栀攀琀眀漀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀猀氀椀攀⤀⸀
攀爀⸀吀栀攀渀礀漀甀搀爀椀氀氀愀㌀㠀洀洀栀漀氀攀琀 洀爀漀甀渀搀 ⴀ 漀瘀攀爀戀椀琀漀渀愀爀漀甀琀攀爀琀
栀攀琀栀爀攀愀搀猀椀渀琀栀攀栀漀氀攀猀椀渀琀栀攀挀
猀猀瀀愀挀攀愀爀漀甀渀搀琀栀攀瀀氀愀猀琀椀挀瀀氀愀
吀栀攀猀攀栀漀氀攀猀眀椀氀氀攀瘀攀渀琀甀愀氀氀礀戀
栀爀漀甀最栀琀栀攀挀栀漀瀀昀漀爀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀猀挀 愀戀氀攀琀漀猀栀愀瀀攀琀栀攀琀攀渀漀渀猀琀漀昀椀
栀漀瀀戀漀愀爀搀昀漀爀琀栀攀琀眀漀㔀
琀攀 Ⰰ 礀漀甀挀愀渀氀愀琀攀爀愀搀樀甀猀琀椀琀猀氀椀
攀甀猀攀搀琀漀猀挀爀攀眀琀栀攀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀搀漀 ⼀㄀㘀 ⴀ㄀㠀砀
䄀昀琀攀爀氀攀琀琀椀渀最琀栀攀最氀甀攀挀甀爀攀挀漀
䰀愀礀琀栀攀愀挀洀攀 ⴀ 琀栀爀攀愀搀攀搀瘀椀猀攀渀甀 䈀攀昀漀爀攀最氀甀攀甀瀀 Ⰰ 礀漀甀洀甀猀琀挀甀琀愀
爀攀眀⸀ 琀⸀最栀琀氀礀昀漀爀瀀攀爀昀攀挀琀愀氀椀最渀洀攀渀琀眀
㄀ⴀ㄀ ⼀㈀ 洀愀挀栀椀渀攀猀挀爀攀眀猀
眀渀漀渀琀漀琀栀攀昀爀愀洀攀⸀ ⸀
洀瀀氀攀琀攀氀礀 Ⰰ 漀瘀攀爀渀椀最栀琀愀琀氀攀愀猀琀 ㄀　洀洀眀椀搀攀愀渀搀
琀椀渀瀀氀愀挀攀瀀氀愀挀攀愀渀搀猀挀爀攀眀椀琀搀漀 ㌀洀洀搀攀攀瀀最爀漀漀瘀攀
Ⰰ 礀漀甀挀愀渀琀栀攀渀瀀攀最琀栀攀樀漀椀渀琀猀昀爀
眀渀眀椀琀栀琀栀攀洀愀挀栀椀渀攀猀挀爀攀眀猀瀀爀漀 椀琀栀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀猀挀爀攀眀⸀
吀栀攀猀焀甀愀爀攀瀀氀愀猀琀椀挀戀甀猀栀椀渀最猀琀 椀渀愀氀氀昀漀甀爀戀漀琀琀漀洀爀愀椀氀猀
倀甀琀琀椀渀最猀栀椀洀猀甀渀搀攀爀琀栀攀琀眀漀洀攀 ⸀䰀愀琀攀
漀洀琀栀攀漀甀琀猀椀搀攀甀猀椀渀最琀眀漀
瘀椀搀攀搀 ⸀吀漀搀漀琀栀椀猀礀漀甀眀椀氀氀渀攀攀搀愀
愀戀椀氀椀稀攀猀琀栀攀氀愀琀攀爀愀氀瀀氀愀礀椀渀琀 Ⰰ 挀漀渀琀 爀 琀愀氀瀀氀愀琀攀猀琀栀攀攀渀搀猀漀昀琀栀攀愀爀洀猀
Ⰰ 礀漀甀眀椀氀氀最氀甀攀猀琀爀椀瀀猀漀昀眀漀漀
吀栀攀瀀爀漀樀攀挀琀椀渀最戀漀愀爀搀眀漀爀欀猀攀焀
爀愀猀琀椀渀最挀漀氀漀爀攀搀
䤀昀礀漀甀渀攀攀搀琀漀挀氀愀洀瀀氀漀渀最攀爀戀漀
䄀氀氀攀渀欀攀礀漀爀眀攀渀挀栀椀渀㔀⼀㌀㈀ᴠ⸀夀漀甀
栀攀瘀椀猀攀猀挀爀攀眀⸀䈀礀洀漀瘀椀渀最椀琀猀氀椀最 吀栀攀戀漀愀爀搀椀猀猀椀洀瀀氀礀瀀氀愀挀攀搀氀漀
Ⰰ㄀　洀洀眀愀氀渀甀琀 搀椀渀琀漀琀栀攀最爀漀漀瘀攀猀琀漀猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀
吀栀攀搀攀愀搀洀愀渀挀愀渀愀氀猀漀戀攀爀攀洀漀瘀攀
爀攀猀琀甀瀀漀渀眀椀氀氀愀氀猀漀椀渀挀爀攀愀猀攀琀
甀愀氀氀礀眀攀氀氀愀猀愀瀀氀愀渀椀渀最猀琀漀瀀
愀爀搀猀椀渀琀栀攀氀攀最瘀椀猀攀
栀琀氀礀氀攀昀琀漀爀爀椀最栀琀 Ⰰ
眀椀氀氀愀最愀椀渀猀甀爀攀氀礀戀攀猀甀爀瀀爀椀猀攀 琀栀攀爀攀椀猀
搀漀眀攀氀猀⸀吀漀搀漀琀栀椀猀礀漀甀甀猀攀愀瀀漀爀琀 Ⰰ 琀 漀猀攀椀渀琀栀攀猀氀漀琀
搀愀渀搀 Ⰰ 愀渀搀挀愀渀戀攀攀愀猀
Ⰰ 愀氀漀渀最眀椀琀栀愀渀礀漀琀栀攀爀琀漀漀
礀漀甀挀愀渀洀椀渀 琀栀攀琀栀爀攀攀瀀氀礀眀漀漀搀瀀愀渀攀氀猀琀栀愀
栀攀最愀瀀愀琀琀栀攀戀漀琀琀漀洀漀昀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀
漀瀀愀爀攀琀栀攀挀栀攀攀欀猀漀昀愀琀攀渀漀渀甀猀椀
愀渀椀渀琀攀最爀愀琀攀搀猀氀椀搀椀渀最搀攀愀搀洀
愀戀氀攀搀爀椀氀氀猀琀愀渀搀愀渀搀搀爀椀氀氀琀眀漀
椀洀椀稀攀 氀猀椀氀礀爀攀洀漀瘀攀搀愀渀搀猀攀琀愀猀椀搀攀
Ⰰ 戀攀猀琀漀爀攀搀漀渀琀栀攀氀愀爀最攀猀栀攀氀
Ⰰ 愀渀搀挀爀攀愀琀攀洀漀爀攀挀氀愀洀瀀椀渀最瀀漀眀
Ⰰ 猀氀椀最栀琀氀礀 Ⰰ 愀渀礀瀀氀愀礀⸀䤀琀椀 琀愀爀攀氀愀椀搀椀渀瀀氀愀挀攀氀漀漀猀攀琀漀昀漀
搀戀礀栀漀眀猀漀氀椀搀氀礀琀栀椀猀洀攀琀栀漀搀昀椀 ⸀䘀 ⴀ 挀
渀最愀爀愀戀戀攀琀瀀氀愀渀攀
㔀　洀洀 ⴀ Ⰰ 昀漀爀椀渀猀琀愀渀挀
搀攀攀瀀栀漀氀攀猀椀渀琀漀攀愀挀栀漀昀琀
愀渀琀栀愀琀挀愀渀戀攀洀漀瘀攀搀猀琀攀瀀氀攀猀猀
砀攀猀琀栀攀渀甀琀椀渀瀀氀愀挀攀⸀ 氀愀洀瀀猀挀愀渀琀栀攀渀戀攀椀渀猀攀爀琀攀搀椀渀
昀猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀攀搀戀礀琀栀攀爀愀椀氀猀樀漀椀渀椀
猀渀漀琀瀀漀猀猀椀戀氀攀琀漀攀氀椀洀椀渀愀琀攀椀琀 爀洀琀栀攀戀漀琀琀漀洀猀栀攀氀昀⸀
攀爀愀琀琀栀攀琀漀瀀漀昀琀栀攀瘀椀猀攀⸀圀椀琀栀琀栀
攀⸀
氀礀戀攀琀眀攀攀渀琀栀攀琀眀漀氀攀最猀琀漀猀漀氀
栀攀樀漀椀渀琀猀⸀
愀氀氀琀漀最攀琀栀攀爀 琀漀琀栀攀攀洀瀀琀礀猀氀漀琀戀攀琀眀攀攀渀琀栀攀
攀 ᰠ 匀漀氀漀 ᴠ 䌀爀椀猀猀挀爀漀猀猀 Ⰰ 琀栀椀猀椀猀琀
Ⰰ 愀渀搀眀椀琀栀愀渀愀挀洀攀 渀最琀栀攀戀愀猀攀漀昀琀栀攀氀攀最猀⸀
椀搀氀礀猀甀瀀瀀漀爀琀琀栀攀眀漀爀欀瀀椀攀挀攀愀
猀挀爀攀眀氀椀欀攀琀栀椀猀愀氀椀琀琀氀攀洀漀瘀攀洀 琀眀漀猀攀挀琀椀漀渀猀漀昀戀攀渀挀栀琀漀瀀琀漀昀
栀攀漀渀氀礀眀愀礀琀漀琀甀渀攀琀栀攀挀氀愀洀瀀椀渀
氀漀渀最椀琀猀氀攀渀最琀栀⸀
攀渀琀椀猀挀漀洀瀀氀攀琀攀氀礀渀漀爀洀愀氀 Ⰰ 愀渀搀 椀砀眀漀爀欀瀀椀攀挀攀猀漀爀漀琀栀攀爀戀攀渀挀栀
最愀爀攀愀⸀圀椀琀栀琀栀攀 ᰠ 刀攀琀爀漀 ᴠ 洀漀搀攀氀 Ⰰ
琀栀椀猀搀漀攀猀渀漀琀栀椀渀搀攀爀琀栀攀昀甀渀挀琀 琀漀瀀愀挀挀攀猀猀漀爀椀攀猀椀渀瀀氀愀挀攀⸀
礀漀甀猀栀漀甀氀搀猀栀椀洀戀漀琀栀愀琀琀栀攀琀漀瀀
椀漀渀椀渀愀渀礀眀愀礀⸀ 愀渀搀琀栀攀戀漀琀琀漀洀漀昀琀栀攀愀爀洀猀⸀