Issue 31 Autumn 2017

HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING TURNING RESTORATION DIY

How to use
guidebushes

The small, smart,

‘swiss army’ toolkit
TECHNIQUES
Glue tech
Drilling on the lathe
Picture frame repair
Fitting out box interiors

SEAHORSE LETTER OPENER • RUSTIC TEALIGHT HOLDERS • BLOCK PRINTS

WWC31 COVER 4a.indd 1 23/08/2017 16:01

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 Community

Welcome
to the autumn issue of
Woodworking Crafts

ello everyone and welcome to the autumn issue of

H Woodworking Crafts. Technique is everything when

it comes to woodworking – without it we cannot
progress. There is plenty of it in this issue, from guide bush
working to carving a block print, drilling on the lathe, glue
tech and peening a scythe…

You can’t have one without the other

This last item might seem unlikely, but not only is scything
a pet interest of mine, more importantly it involves cold
forging, or peening. If you are a woodworker it really
helps to understand metalworking processes because tools
are made of different kinds of steel and we all use metal
fixtures and fittings in projects and around the workshop.
I was chatting to an acquaintance the other day about
his passion for restoring vintage cars. His training is in
metalwork but the key skill in rebuilding elderly vehicles is
woodwork because they all contain wood, often as structural
components with an aluminium skin laid over them.
And so it is, metal creates wood items and metal makes
metal. Metallurgy is a complex and fascinating subject
on which we all depend in our daily lives without really
appreciating it. If every tool in the world suddenly
72 disappeared by magic, civilisation would collapse
immediately. But humans, like many animals, are ingenious
tool users, fashioning wood and metal to do amazing things
that are impossible by bare hands alone. It is this ceaseless

28 ingenuity which fascinates me and yet the simpler, older

tools, techniques and traditions still strike a chord with
many. We must not let this knowledge die or we will be all
the poorer for it.

Anthony Bailey, Editor

Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com

21
62
2 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

59

In the autumn issue...

PROJECTS COMMUNITY
6 Contemporary cabinet 5 Inspiration – cabinets
15 Seahorse letter opener 12 Woodworking glossary – D
28 Block printing 26 News & events
42 Plans for you 32 Reader group test
– garden trolley – CMT blade cleaner
59 Votive & tealight holders 41 This month’s contributors
44 Feature – Kerryn Carter
TECHNIQUES Toolschool
21 Box interiors 54 Book reviews
34 Guide bush work 68 Woodland ways
48 Drilling on the lathe – The Great Storm

55 Picture frame repair 75 Coming next month

78 Ask the experts
15
62 Glue tech
80 Trees for life – sycamore
67 #@*&!%?! happens
– damaged blades 88 Focus on – Tōdai-ji Temple 39
72 Peening a scythe
KIT & TOOLS
Woodwork on the web 39 Test – Proxxon PM100
To find more great projects, tests and polishing machine
techniques like these, visit our
fantastic website at: www. 52 Kitted out
woodworkersinstitute.com
76 Small smart toolkit

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 3

WWC31_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER SUBBED.indd 3 08/08/2017 09:32

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 Community

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Le :
Curved, wall Le : Art
-mounted Deeco
Deco-
DVD ins
spi
inspired
storage cab
bin by
cabinet y
cabinet Rosss Spark
Ross k

INSPIRATION
Cabinets come in all shapes
and sizes as this very varied
selection shows

Right: Fabergé
cabinet from
Silverlining
by John Stefanidis

Sommelier drinks
cabinet by Declan
O’Donoghue

‘Nudge’ cabinets by
Le : A M Ma hew Burt Art Deco cabinet Wales & Wales
vase ccabinet
a made by Andrew Beaumont
by Ber rw Philips
Berwyn

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 5

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 Project

Contemporary
cabinet
Kevin Ley makes an
oriental-style cabinet to
house his ministry of sound

S
ound systems should be heard
and not seen. Gone are the days
when, in order to get decent
audio reproduction, it was necessary
to have speakers the size of telephone
boxes. In our farmhouse in Yorkshire I
had managed to hide the electronics in
a converted fireplace recess in the wall,
but the large speakers dating from the
1970s were on permanent view. The
sound was brilliant but the sight less
so. We decided to replace the old hi-fi
with a modem micro system and house
it, with all the CDs and tapes, in an
attractive cabinet.

Design
Making furniture for our house gives
me the opportunity to experiment and
try something new or a bit different,
and expand my repertoire. I can also
use up any spare timber in the store.
We wanted the cabinet to be tall for
convenient access to the controls for
the music system and the CDs and
tapes, and also the speakers would
need to be at the ‘line of hearing’ so
the sound would not be blocked by
other furniture.
We fancied something with an Arts &
Crafts/Shaker look – which we usually
do – and I remembered a tapered
china cabinet I had seen, which gave
me a starting point for some doodling
on my CAD (computeraided design)
program.
I put it on legs, simplified the lines required for our extensive collection of
and replaced the glazing in the doors tapes and CDs. These measurements
with woven strips of wood which I and the site space available to house
had seen used to good effect by Guy the finished piece determined its
Butcher on one of his cabinets. dimensions and overall proportions. Paler side panel with
We had the measurements of the I drew up the final draft, submitted it matching darker front
music centre we had chosen and I to the design authority (my wife) and and back faces
worked out the shelf runs and spacing she approved it.

6 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Project

Biscuit joints

Back grooved in
Panel groove

Carcass sides
are biscuit
jointed

Woven ash
panel Main carcass
joints

Square-pegged
tenon
Front legs are
biscuit-jointed
to carcass

Selecting the timber

The room has furniture in oak, elm, burr elm, maple and walnut and we wanted a
Making the carcass nice bold statement in this piece, so we chose fumed, oiled Brazilian mahogany
Draw the front (which is also the back) (Swietenia macrophylla) for the carcass and English ash (Fraxinus excelsior) for
full size on to a piece of white-faced the woven door panels to provide a contrast of colour and figure. Fuming the
hardboard. I find that once things are mahogany immediately brings out the deep red colour you usually have to wait
not square, it is wise to do this to check for. I had some nice Brazilian mahogany left over from past jobs, and plenty of
all the measurements. Cut the various ash offcuts suitable for the door panels. All this wood had been stored in warm,
components out of the boards of dry conditions so it was ready for immediate use. The wood store is in a loft over
mahogany, dimension them and stack the workshop and benefits from warmth and relatively low humidity, achieved
them in the workshop to continue with a sawdust burner and a dehumidifier.
conditioning. ➤

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 Project

787 355
22 22

50

919

22 261 22
1400

76

355

76 559 76 50 205 50

Front and back

Mortise the front and back side
uprights (stiles) to take the cross rail
tenons. Adjust these to fit on the front
pieces, apply Titebond and clamp up.
Check for square by measuring the
diagonals, and leave to set.
Drill holes and square them off with
a 10mm chisel for the contrasting pegs.
These are made from offcuts of ash,
with the tops finished and chamfered
but not fitted at this point because the
mahogany will be finished with oil, and
the ash pegs and woven panels with
acrylic varnish, to keep its pale colour.
Cut a 6mm slot into the inside
edges of the back pieces to take the
back, which is cut from 6mm MDF.
Apply glue to the slots, mortises and
tenons, and clamp the back up, check
for square and leave to set. Don’t use
pegs in the back joints because they
won’t be seen and the joint will be
strengthened by the glue.
Kevin uses woven ash as an intriguing form of panelling for his hi-fi cabinet

8 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Project

Se ng spacer strip on router base for angled cuts Rou ng the angled shelf housings using a clamp guide

Making the sides

Set the correct angle, taken from the
full-sized drawing, on the radial arm
saw and crosscut the sides to length.
Make the cut-outs on the handsaw to
form the legs, and finish with a cabinet
scraper and sanding blocks.
To cut the stopped housings to the
correct angle for the shelves and base,
I fixed a strip to the base of my Trend
T9 router. Again, I took the angle from
the full-sized drawings. I used a Trend
clamp batten to guide the router.
Cut biscuit slots in the edges of the
sides and the inside faces of the front
and back stiles, and use biscuits to
locate and strengthen the butt joint
between the sides and the front and Marking out on white-faced hardboard
back. Machine and hand-sand the
inside faces to a finish. Fit the base flush against the front Fit the front and back with dry biscuits
and back lower cross-rails and cut and drop onto the dry-assembled side/
Shelves and base biscuit slots in the front edges for shelf unit to check the whole fit.
Cut the shelves and base to length, biscuits to locate and strengthen the Make any necessary adjustments and
and round over the front edges of the joint. Cut corresponding slots in the then take it to pieces. Apply PVA to the
shelves with a 10mm radius cutter on cross-rails. stopped housings and fit the shelves
a router. Then cut the shoulders at and base to the sides. Again, dry-fit the
the front to overlap the ends of the Assembly front and back with biscuits to pull
stopped housings and at the back to Machine and hand-sand the shelves everything into the correct shape, and
let the shelf back edge into the recess and base to a finish. Test fit them dry apply sash clamps across the front and
between the back frame and its panel. in the stopped housings in the sides. back to pull up the shelves and base ➤

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 Project

Sanding ash strips on an inverted belt sander using a homemade Adjus ng the line-up of woven slats using a block and mallet
pressure block to save the fi ngers

into their housings while the glue sets. a finish, glue the top and clamp it into
Carefully removing the front and position.
back edges of the sides and base,
lightly hand-plane it to an exact fit with Door frames
the front and back stiles. Apply PVA to Make the doors with the rails mortised
the joint and the biscuits and fit the and tenoned to the stiles and leave a
front and back to the sides. rebate to take the woven panel. Make
Leaving it clamped, stand the beading strips to hold the woven
assembled carcass upright on a known panel in place. Fit the frames and hang
flat surface. Check for square and wind, them on 25mm brass butt hinges, with
and leave to set. inset brass ball catches on the top and
bottom of each door, and fit rectangular
Top undercut pulls to the fronts.
Cut the top to size and form undercut
chamfers on the ends. Remove most Fuming
of the waste on the planer with the Sand the completed carcass by hand
top supported at the correct angle down to 320 grit, removing any marks
by a piece of ply, held in a Workmate and blemishes, particularly glue runs
alongside the plane, and finished or ooze. You can use an inspection
with a jack plane, scraper and sanding light at different angles to ensure it is
blocks. Cut biscuit slots in the tops ready for fuming. It is possible to very
of the sides and the front and back lightly sand a blemish out after fuming,
top rails. Cut corresponding slots in but I don’t recommend it.
the underside of the top, offer them Next, erect a polythene tent over
up and tap them home. Machine and the carcass and place saucers of
hand-sand the outside of the carcass to 890 ammonia inside. Wear gloves Close-up of legs and pegs

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 Project

‘I chose the width of

the warp strips so that
they fitted exactly
into the opening
in the door frame
without overlapping
into the rebates’

and goggles during this process, as

ammonia can cause permanent damage
to the eyes and stings on the skin,
particularly on open cuts or scratches.
I left it over a weekend to ensure
maximum effect.

Woven panels
I experimented with some thin strips
of wood to decide on the pattern
and technique of the woven panels.
I decided the vertical (warp) strips
would butt up against each other
without a gap in between, and the
horizontal (weft) strips would be
separated by their own width above
and below to allow for the bend in
the warp strips. This arrangement was
relatively easy to keep straight and it
gave a pleasing texture of rectangles,
which reflected the shape of both the
doors and the whole carcass.
I chose the width of the warp strips
so that they fitted exactly into the
opening in the door frame without Doors open – fully loaded
overlapping into the rebates. The
weft strips were the same width. I had relatively few breakages and the mortise and tenon joints.
My experiments indicated that, at a strips were pretty even in thickness. Trim the woven panels and fit into
thickness of 1.5mm, the strips would Finally, hand-sand them and treat with the rebates in the doors, holding them
be flexible enough to bend but not too three coats of Aquacote acrylic varnish. in place with the retaining strips. Close
fragile to handle. I treated the ash pegs at the same time. the doors and then adjust the weft
Cut the strips from some straight- strips by gently tapping with a block
grained ash, previously faced and Weaving and mallet, on the back face, so that
thicknessed. Cut the weft to exact The weaving is quite simple. Thread they line up exactly across the doors.
length and cut the warp to length plus a piece of 25mm dowel through the
50mm to allow for the bending and warp to act like a weaver’s hurdle so The final result
leaving a trim. that each weft strip is easy to insert, This reinvented radiogram looks good
Cut the strips on the handsaw, with then tap into place with a block and and works well. We found that the
the edge against the fence hand-planed hammer, using a spare piece of strip to door panels are quite acoustically
and sanded to a finish before each cut, keep the spacing correct. transparent, minimising the muffling
so that only the back face of the strip Give the fumed carcass several coats effect when closed – OR MAYBE ITS
needs to be finished. Cut plenty of of Liberon finishing oil. Leave each MY HIGH-TONE HEARING!
spares just in case. coat to cure for 24 hours, then cut it The old hi-fi? It’s safely installed in
Finish the backs of the strips on an back with a Scotchbrite grey pad, and my workshop with the big old speakers
inverted belt sander using 120 grit and finally buff it to a soft lustre. Glue the in the loft, playing through grills in the
a wooden block to hold them down. finished pegs and tap them home into ceiling, over the bench. Router noise? –
With practice, this is surprisingly easy – the prepared holes in the front frame no problem. ■

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 Community

A woodworking glossary
The letter D

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN BULLAR

DADO A rectangular groove cut across or wet rot, and different stages of the
the grain, also referred to as a housing process. There are various methods of
or trench. counteracting or delaying this process
although once decay has started it will
DADO HEAD OR CUTTER A system of always win.
individual saw blades that are stacked

D
to create dadoes of specific sizes. Used DECK SCREW A coarse threaded
in a tablesaw or radial arm saw. wood fastener, similar to a drywall
screw but with a thicker, less
DANISH OIL A type of penetrating brittle shaft.
wood finish, generally either clear or
with a darker tint containing several
different oils and other ingredients.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

DEAD-BLOW MALLET Striking tool

with loose lead shot contained in the
head to concentrate all its energy into a Dial gauge
single, non-bounce blow and a soft face
to prevent marring the workpiece. DIAMOND TIP WHEEL DRESSER A
special tool designed to dress grinding
wheels, a similar function to the Devil
Stone.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Decking screws

DENATURED ALCOHOL Clear, DIMENSION The extent of a physical

colourless liquid used as a cleaner and measurement, applicable to anything
solvent, as well as a fast-drying medium but used frequently in relation to
for finishes such as shellac. woodworking where dimensions are
vitally important.
DETENT A preset adjustment on a
tool, set for the most common angles DIRECT DRIVE A motor shaft
A dead-blow mallet such as 45° or 90°. Also referred to as a attached directly to a cutter or blade,
positive stop. it relies on the available torque and
DEATHWATCH BEETLE Xestobium speed of the motor instead of working
rufovillosum – a woodboring beetle DEVIL STONE A hard carborundum through a gearbox or drive belts
usually found in quite old oak timbers stone used for dressing grinding wheels and pulleys.
in cold, humid locations such as when they become worn out of shape.
beams in churches. The young beetles DISK SANDER A power tool, or
are fairly small but mature ones are DEWAXED SHELLAC A natural wood stationary machine, fitted with a
much larger at about 7mm long. The finish derived from excretions of the spinning disk to which open-coat
colonies last about 10-11 years and lac beetle and further processed to abrasive disks can be attached for
can do significant damage in that time. separate out its naturally occurring wax sanding wood and other suitable
The name relates to a superstition that component in order to prevent the materials.
their tapping or ticking noise at night cured finish from interfering with the
accompanies keeping a bedside vigil or bonding ability of subsequent finish
watch for the dying. coats.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY STANDING

DECAY The decomposition of wood D-HANDLE Part of a tool, shaped like

by fungi. This is an essential the capital letter D, that allows the user
component of the renewal process to firmly grasp it.
that creates new life in the natural
world. However, in man-made DIAL GAUGE An instrument for
wooden structures of any kind it is measuring short distances to very
most unwelcome. There are various precise tolerances. Useful for critical
types of decay or rot, such as dry rot machine set-ups and adjustments. Disk sander

12 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

d
DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE Tape with
adhesive on both sides, often used to
temporarily attach components and
jigs. Carpet tape or special jig tape are
the correct type for woodworking.

DOVETAIL Attractive and very strong

PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

joint formed by mating together
one or more fan-shaped ‘pins’ to
correspondingly sized and shaped
notches, called ‘tails’. The joinery can
be visible from both sides, known as
‘through’ dovetails, or from only one
side – ‘half blind’, or ‘blind’ hidden.

Drawknife
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

DOZUKI A thin-bladed Japanese saw range of sizes, metric and imperial

that cuts on the pull stroke. It has a stiff being the most common.
metal back and a replaceable blade.
DRIVER BIT A screwdriver tip that fits
DRAWER RUNNERS A system of in a power drill often held in a special
track and rollers that is screwed to the magnetic or snap-in bit holder which
outside of a drawer box and the inside may be part of a larger range of drilling
Dovetails of the drawer opening so the drawer and driving accessories.
will open and close while maintaining
DOWEL Wood of cylindrical section, its alignment in the carcass. The DRUM SANDER Sanding machine
sometimes used to help hold a mortise simplest and cheapest are known as consisting of a spinning cylinder
and tenon joint together. ‘easy-on’ because they hook easily wrapped in a flexible abrasive sheet.
into the carcass track. There are more Available as an attachment for a power
DOWEL CENTRE A small metal expensive and sophisticated variants. drill or as a dedicated machine.
turning that is pushed into a dowel
hole to mark drilling position on a DRAWKNIFE A chair-making tool DRY FIT The term for test-fitting
mating workpiece. with a curved or straight blade and components without glue or fasteners
perpendicular wooden handles. to ensure they will go together
DOWNDRAFT TABLE A shallow box properly during final assembly.
with a flat perforated surface which DRESSED TIMBER Timber that has
is attached to an extractor to remove been planed to a smooth finish on all DRYWALL SCREW Coarse-threaded
sanding dust ‘at source’. faces and edges. screw designed for fixing plasterboard
to wood. The bugle head shape is
DRILL A power tool for making holes in designed so it goes in flush with the
wood or for driving in screws. Originally surface and it has a black phosphate
it would have been hand-powered. coating. Available loose or in ‘collated’
form (in a strip for special drywall
DRILL BIT A spiral form metal tool power drivers.
which fits in the chuck of a power drill.
Available in various types for drilling DUST COLLECTION A system of
into wood, plastic, metal, ceramics and ducts and hoses connected to an
masonry. They are available in a wide extractor for the removal of sawdust
and wood chippings generated during
woodworking operations.

DUST NIBS Tiny airborne particles that

PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

settle on a workpiece before the finish

has dried, leaving a rough texture on
the surface that must be lightly rubbed
down with fine abrasive before the next
coat is applied.

DUST PORT An outlet on a power

tool or static machine enabling it to
be connected to a dust extractor or
Downdra table Drill bit extraction system. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 13

WWC31_12_13_GLOSSARY D SUBBED.indd 13 09/08/2017 15:58

 BASA 3 12” BANDSAW

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014_WWC_031.indd 14 8/10/17 10:51 AM
 Project

Seahorse
letter
opener

Beachcomber Paul
Purnell picks up the
perfect wave-washed
log to make this
delightful seahorse
letter opener
ith its horse-like head,

W eyes of a chameleon,
a kangaroo-like pouch
(males) and the prehensile tail of
a monkey, it is little wonder that
the hippocampus, or seahorse, has
been depicted in art, sculpture and
EQUIPMENT USED
literary works since the 6th century Tools
BC. • Bandsaw
Hippocampus comes from the • Rotary carving tool
Ancient Greek word hippos meaning • Coarse-toothed burr
‘horse’ and kampos meaning ‘sea • Ruby flame-shaped burr
monster’. • Diamond bud-shaped burr
The seahorse is a fish, the only • Diamond cylinder 3mm
one with a neck, and the only • 2mm drill bit
species on earth where the male • Cushioned-drum sander
gives birth to the fry. • Split-mandrel sander
There are more than 50 species, • Carving knife
ranging in size from the pygmy at
2cm to the pot-bellied seahorse Materials
from Australia at 35cm. • Magnolia log (Magnolia
One of the rarest seahorses is the grandiflora) with sufficient
Cape seahorse, also known as the wood for a workable piece
Knysna seahorse, found off the coast measuring 200mm
of South Africa. x 50mm x 40mm
There are two species around • 4mm red glass eyes
the British coastline: the spiny • Sandpaper 120 to
seahorse (Hippocampus guttulatus) 400 grit
and the short-snouted seahorse • Epoxy putty
(Hippocampus hippocampus). ➤ • Finishing oil

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 15

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 Project

1 This is a stylised carving of a generic

seahorse. Nevertheless, gather
plenty of reference material to help
with the shape and position of the
seahorse’s features.
Prepare front and side-view
templates from the diagram. Prepare
the log to obtain a working piece
of wood 200mm long, 50mm deep
and 40mm wide. Carefully flatten
two opposite sides of the log on the
bandsaw. These sides are for the side
template, therefore must be at least
50mm across. For the first cut, place
some wedges beneath the log to stop it
rolling. Transfer the side template on
to one side and use the bandsaw to cut
the blank.

2 The side-view blank. The flaw in

the middle will be exploited in the
finished shape.
1 2

3 Draw on the profile of the front/

back view using the template as
a guide.

4 Use a coarse-toothed burr to carve

this profile.

5 Use the same burr to refine the

side view.

6 Locate the dorsal fin and carve with

the coarse burr.

7 Reduce the width of the head and

nose using the coarse burr.

8 Use a 3mm carbide burr to outline

the cheeks and the pectoral fin on
each side of the head. The gills of a
seahorse sit behind the cheeks. 3 4 5

Did you know

• Seahorses have neither teeth nor
stomach and have to suck their
prey, which they digest as it travels
along a tube from one end to the
other. Consequently, they need to
eat a staggering 3000 pieces of
food per day.

• The insatiable appetite for using

seahorses in Chinese medicine as a
cure for asthma, high cholesterol,
arteriosclerosis and impotence, is
the biggest threat to the survival of
the species.
6 7 8

16 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_15_18_CARVED LETTER OPENER SUBBED.indd 16 08/08/2017 09:56

 Project

Did you know

In addition to being able to
change colour, the seahorse can
grow fleshy filaments, called cirri,
adding to their ability to blend in
with their habitat.

Amazing fact
Seahorses are among the most
successful hunters in the sea
and can reach a 90% success 9 10
rate (three times that of many
other fish). Their method is called
pivot-feeding. This involves them
creeping up on their unsuspecting
prey, snapping their heads
around and slurping the treat into
their mouths.

9 Use a carbide cone to separate the

underside of the snout from the
chest, round over the head and refine
the pectoral fins.

10 Using the coarse burr, start to

round over the body.
11 12

11 With a ball-shaped carbide burr,

outline the three spines on the
top of the head: the nose spine sits
in front of the eye; the eye spine sits
behind the eye and the coronet is at
the rear.
The first trunk ridge sits just below
the pectoral fins. With the same cutter,
define the indentation between this
ridge and the next.

12 Continue to carve the

indentations between the ridges
of the trunk and back of tail. 13 14

13 Use a ruby flame to carve the

coiled part of the tail.

14 With a carving knife, cut behind

the pectoral fins and shape the
dorsal fin.

15 Use 120-grit paper on a split-

mandrel sander to smooth the
indentations.

16 Use your reference material to

help you carve the head features.
Start with the V-shaped notch where
the snout joins the head. Use a ruby
flame. ➤ 15 16

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 17

WWC31_15_18_CARVED LETTER OPENER SUBBED.indd 17 02/08/2017 12:29

 Project

17 Then shape the tip of the snout

– note the concave profile.

18 Use a pair of pins to locate the

eye positions. Check from the
front and above. Drill a 2mm pilot hole
at their centres.

19 Shape the blade with the coarse

burr. It is approximately 15mm
wide at the top.

20 Sand the blade with a

cushioned-drum sander with
120 and 240-grit paper. Finish sanding
17 18

by hand with a block for a crisper

finish.

21 Return to the eye. Use a

diamond bud to enlarge the eye
socket to accommodate the 4mm eyes.
Ensure a snug fit. They will be fitted
with epoxy putty and if the socket is
too large the putty will show through.

Tip: When drilling the eye sockets for a

carving that will be left unpainted, drill a
hole through to connect both eyes. A tight fit
of the eye is desirable and as you have little
leeway an eye can become stuck when test 19 20
fitting. This method will enable you to push it
out from the other side if that happens.

22 Use a 2mm diamond cylinder to

add the waves to the three fins.

23 Give the whole piece its final

sand by hand with 320 and 400-
grit paper. Wipe clean and apply four
coats of your choice of finishing oil.

24 Fit the glass eyes with epoxy

putty and this is your finished
letter opener.

25 The back view showing the fin

and ribbing. ■
21 22

23 24 25

18 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_15_18_CARVED LETTER OPENER SUBBED.indd 18 08/08/2017 09:56

 The Rocking Horse Shop
Designers, Makers & Restorers of Excellent Wooden Rocking Horses in the best Tradition of
English Hand Craftmanship since 1976

Make a Unique
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17 Superb Designs to choose from
All with actual size drawings, colour pictures, step-by-step
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Fangfoss, YORK YO41 5JH

019_WWC_031.indd 19 8/8/17 3:24 PM

 READ

ANYWHERE

© Shutterstock/Africa Studio

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£2.15
PER ISSUE

16-248 WWC App Ad.indd 20 8/9/17 10:13 AM

 Technique

Fitting
out box
interiors
The in
inside is as important
he outside, as Louise
as th
the
Biggs
Bigggs explains
n pr
previous articles I have looked at how

I bo
oxe were made and veneered. This
boxes
ar
rtic will cover what goes on inside
article
the box
boxes when they are to be more than
ammem
memory box, when the internal areas
hav
ave specific requirements. For this
have
ar
rtic I have used three examples.
article
T
The first stage, planning, was
u
using a CAD program, where each
rrequired section was made into a
‘block’. These ‘blocks’ could then
b
be inserted into the drawing, lifted
aand moved around as required. I
hav sometimes found that the interior
h
have
controls the
controls t overall size of the box so in effect
you aree working
w backwards, but the overall
Above: Gentleman’s box with top an
nd available
size and a space to stand/display the
tray removed showing second tray box must be taken into consideration. ➤
Y LOUISE BIGGS

A gentleman’s box to take cu inks, A pen collec on box to house a A ladies’ jewellery box to take
PHOTOGRAPHS BY

e pins and clips, watches, rings and collec on of very high-end fountain earrings, bracelets, necklaces, wrist
pocket watches pens and an ink bo le watches and rings

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 21

WWC31_21_23_Tech Box interiors SUBBED.indd 21 08/08/2017 09:59

 Technique

Below are what I consider the key points for planning an

interior.

• What size do the various sections have to be, allowing space

for fingers getting hold of the objects?
• Have the clients asked for specific numbers of any sections
for e.g. earrings, cufflinks.
• The layout within the box and how it works best.
• Has the client requested a drawer and/or internal trays or is
this left to you planning the interior?
• What are the trays going to rest on and how do you lift
them out?
• What allowances are required for fabric, partitions, support
blocks and any cushioning required?

Inner bo om fi ed into grooves and a rebate at the front

Inner divisions two areas, the larger of which would then mitred into place. As this edge
For the pen and ladies’ jewellery box contain the ink bottle. Being very was narrower the 45° mitre would
some inner divisions were required. accurate with the marking out and only go into the main edging a short
Having determined the layout, the double checking, the vertical grooves way. Once fitted the double mitre
outer box was constructed but not were cut in the same way. The outer was cut for the edging on the small
glued, the divide between the inner box was clamped together with the division. This small edge was then
box and the lower drawer was fitted. A inner bottom fitted. The main partition mitred and fitted into the long division
small groove was cut on the box sides was then fitted and the position of the edge. The other carcass side edging
and back using a router (the safest small partition marked, cut and fitted was then fitted, cutting a small double
method is to use a router table but in the same way. Once the carcass was mitre for the division edging and
hold the work securely and a hand- glued up and the divisions fitted, they mitres for the corners.
held router can be used). On the front were planed flush with the top of the
a rebate was cut so the ply finished box using a small block plane. Inner trays and
flush with the box front. A thin ply To complete the divisions in the pen compartments
panel was then fitted. box the ebony veneer edge was fitted The inner trays were supported by
In the case of the pen box this to the front and back and one side. The fabric-covered blocks, in the case
had two further divisions creating veneer edging for the long division was of these boxes across the ends of
the boxes. Test blocks, the required
thicknesses, are covered in fabric and
kept for this task. When making the
trays with mitred corners the sections
were tried into the boxes to check the
lengths were correct.
Whether the compartments are in
the bottom of the box or in the trays
they were formed in the same way.
The only difference between them was
the thicknesses of materials used. In
some cases the end pieces also acted as
tray supports so needed to be wider. I
Sides of the pen box with grooves cut for The pen box clamped dry to test fi t generally use 2mm hardboard to form
inner base and dividers the dividers the divisions, as in the jewellery and
gentleman’s boxes, as a lot tend to be
latticed but there are times when they
need to be less flexible, so a 3mm ply
is used as in the pen box where the
divisions were strips.
With careful marking out, one
division piece of each length was
marked from the drawing or workshop
rod. These were used to set the fence
for all the other pieces throughout
the cutting process. It is important to
keep everything the right way round –
cut one piece the wrong way and any
Ebony edging being fi ed The completed ebony edging glued discrepancies between the cuts will
into place stand out.

22 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_21_23_Tech Box interiors SUBBED.indd 22 02/08/2017 12:31

 Technique

Using test blocks for tray supports to The bo om level of the gentleman’s box Marking the dividers carefully from the
check the length of the tray components with tray supports at the end CAD drawing

On the mitre saw cu ng the half lap Inner tray divisions forming the la ced Covering the side pieces with fabric while
joints to the correct width compartments clearing the half lap joint

Each division was covered in fabric with adhesive film and the material
on both sides and the top edge, so the fitted. With a very sharp pair of fine
half lap joints must allow for this. I have scissors the material is cut clear of the
an electric mitre saw in the workshop half lap joints. The side pieces and
with a blade which cuts the exact width support blocks are covered on one
I require. It belongs to my picture- side and the material cut and turned
framing colleague and, by nature of so it is glued on the back side. Working
its job, has a clamp on either side of from the sides of the boxes inwards
the blade, so when cutting, my hands the various linings are carefully glued
were nowhere near the blade. The side in place. The trays were completed
pieces are kept a little higher to lock by installing the bottom then laying
the latticed and strip divisions in place. the lattice divisions in place. In the
Once all the cuts were made to the jewellery and gentleman’s boxes the
divisions and side pieces using a 3mm tray handles were formed using plaited Pen collec on box with top tray removed
wide chisel, the tops of each cut were silk threads. These were glued and
cut square. The divisions would then stapled to the sides before the side
join together as shown for the earrings, pieces were carefully glued in place.
cufflinks and tie pins/clips. The handles on the pen box were
The long strips to divide the watches, small metal ones which were recessed
necklaces and pens were constructed into the tray edge with a finger hole
in the same way. Using this method underneath.
you can create compartments any size Each box was created to hold
you require. different treasures but the principles
of forming the inside trays and
Material and installation compartments were very similar. ■
The bottoms of the boxes and trays
are covered with fabric using a double- Tool List
sided adhesive film on the flat surfaces. Tablesaw
The edges are then cut and turned and Mitre saw
adhered to the edges using Copydex, Block plane
a latex adhesive. These are then glued Chisels – various sizes
in using Copydex as it has no water Flush cut saw
content so will not cause a problem for Strap clamp Ladies’ jewellery box completed with top
the box. Each division is then coated tray removed

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 23

WWC31_21_23_Tech Box interiors SUBBED.indd 23 08/08/2017 10:01

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024_025_WWC_031.indd 25 8/7/17 12:27 PM

 Community

NEWS & EVENTS

All the latest events and news from the world of woodworking

The new Walberswick ferry boat

Left: Boy Charlie
takes to the
water for the first
time, carrying on
a centuries-old
tradition with its
party of excited
passengers

Below: L-R Mike

Tupper, joint
owner of IBTC,
Lewis Philips,
boatbuilder,
and Seb Scarr,
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF IBTC

student, who built

the new ferry boat

T
he tradition of a ferry across the River Blyth between
Southwold and Walberswick dates back to 1236. Many
boats have plied this route over the centuries and a
new one has just been commissioned by Dani Church, the
current ferrywoman, to replace Oud Bob – a clinker-built
Suffolk punt which is going into retirement after 60 years of
service. Oud Bob was her great uncle Bob’s boat, named after
his father, also called Bob, who was a ferryman too. In fact,
Dani’s family have been working on the ferry since 1891. At
present Oud Bob works alongside Halcyon Days, which was
the boat her father had built in 1996. addition to the usual cargo of bicycles, dogs, children and
The new boat, which has been built by International buggies. She has been built of larch on oak over the winter
Boatbuilding Training College, Lowestoft Marine Services, and spring at IBTC and is called Boy Charlie after Dani’s son.
based in Oulton Broad, is a copy of Halcyon Days. These She launched on 8 July at Walberswick.
boats are slightly wider in the beam than Oud Bob, making International Boatbuilding Training College, Lowestoft.
them more stable, and carry an extra three passengers in www.ibtc.co.uk

Events Self Build and Design Show 9-10 Temple Barns, Essex www.
Fangfest – Fes val of the Prac cal September 2017, Westpoint, Exeter europeanwoodworkingshow.eu
Arts, Fangfoss, Nr York, westpointexeter.co.uk/whats-on/47/
2-3 September 2017 Facebook: self-build-and-design-show Apple Day, Stanmer Park, Falmer, Nr
Fangfest Fes val of Prac cal Arts, Brighton, 24 September, 2017
Fangfoss, Near York Bentley Woodfair 15-17 September www.brightonpermaculture.org.uk/
2017, Bentley, Halland, East Sussex, courses/appleday
Into The Trees 9-10 September 2017, BN8 5AF
Pippingford Park, Nutley, East Sussex www.bentley.org.uk/ Autumn Countryside Show, Weald and
www.into-the-trees.co.uk Downland Museum, Singleton, West
European Woodworking Show Sussex 7-8 October 2017
16-17 Sept 2017, Cressing www.wealddown.co.uk/whats-on/

26 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_26-27_NEWS & EVENTS SUBBED.indd 26 02/08/2017 12:31

 Community

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

Web links for you
YouTube
The Viking Way – Woodwork
If you’re into beards, rough cloth,
bare chests, pine forests and the great
outdoors, this is a taster of life as a
woodworker in the Viking tradition.
A good bit of back to nature stuff.
From Hands On History and
Trondheim Vikinglag.

Breathe easy
Redesigning ‘trees of life’ – helping cities
breathe, by Gary Marshall
was lucky enough to be in the fine Brussels, the screens are busy ‘eating

I old city of Palma recently. Much of

the city is narrow, with steps and
cobbles, thus unsuitable for normal
up’ harmful air pollutants. Specially
selected mosses that will thrive in
their chosen locations deal with
Facebook road traffic. Those areas that are emitted particulates by bio-digesting
Woodworking Ideas suitable consequently have heavy them within 24 hours. They can
Enter this search term for the weird, traffic. These areas are frequently also reduce excess heat, in some
the wacky and the wonderful. A heavily polluted, being traversed by instances by up to 17°C. Such hot air,
real Flintstones foot-powered car, fuming, air-conditioned traffic. from exhausts, air-conditioning and
a giant carved tree trunk, your own However, there is some offset from heating, distorts many a city climate
supersized homemade disk sander – magnificent, ancient street trees and and adds to global warming. Highly
you name it, it’s all there.
newly planted green spaces (see polluted cities such as Hong Kong are
Woodworking Crafts, Issue 29, p52). particularly keen on the moss screens,
So I was particularly interested, while since the effects of pollution there
relaxing at our hotel, to catch a cost the economy billions of dollars
programme on the BBC’s World TV every year.
Service about a team of Germany-
based designers who are ‘reinventing’ New technology
street trees. The Dresden-based company has taken
Some areas in cities are just not off from a start-up position. It is being
suitable for large or even decorative backed not just by big city councils but
tree planting and these new ‘trees’ by major motor industry and venture
aren’t even planted. Although living capital players too. The technology
entities, they are assembled and was developed over 10 years at the
Instagram installed in just six hours, require Dresden University of Technology and
Tree House Community minimal aftercare, monitor various vital Humboldt Universitat Berlin. ‘Moss
Brasil www.instagram.com/ atmospheric levels and can clean the cultures have a much larger leaf surface
treehousecommunitybrasil/ equivalent amount of polluted city air area than any other plant. That means
Here are a bunch of guys and gals as 275 trees. Certainly over the screen’s we can capture more pollutants’, said
working in Brazil’s extensive forests
lives they work out far more cost- Zhengliang Wu, co-founder of Green
making treehouses for a living and all
effective than planting and maintaining City Solutions – the maker of CityTree
in an eco-friendly way.
a similar number of city trees. – in an interview with CNN.
The screens aren’t cheap at the
So what are they? equivalent of more than £20,000 each,
Twi er Moss. What? Yes, that’s right – moss. so it’s unlikely many individuals will
WoodSupport_NO @woodsupport In Issue 1 of Woodworking Crafts, be buying them, but those responsible
Nick Offerman, better known as I implored readers to ‘Remember and concerned for city health and
the gruff Ron Swanson of TV’s Parks the humble moss and liverwort – as functioning should be adding them
and Recreation, is also a fully fledged these can be excellent indicators of to their shopping lists. Don’t be
woodworker. So much so that you can
air quality’… I never expected to see surprised to see the 4m moss screens
tweet him with your woodworking
amazing modernistic moss screens integrated into a city near you in the
problems and get his gruff, blunt
but humorous responses. He has an acting as effective city clean air filters. near future. Take note town and city
answer for even the most ‘off the In Hamburg and more than 20 planners, architects, airport designers,
wall’ questions other locations around the world, environmentalists and, yes, even
including Paris, Oslo, Hong Kong and accountants. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 27

WWC31_26-27_NEWS & EVENTS SUBBED.indd 27 02/08/2017 12:31

 Technique

Woodcut-inspired
block print Things you will need…
Tools:
• V parting tool: 17/6

In this extract from his new book, Andrew • Flat skew chisel: D1S/12
• Gouges: D5/12, D8/10, D5/8,
Hibberd explains how to create a block print 3/22, 5F/8
• Dummy/mallet
• Multi-slope or carving stand
n exhibition of chiaroscuro block to save time. With careful inking, • Printing ink: black, red and blue

A woodcuts produced during

the Italian Renaissance was the
inspiration for this project. During the
the small red areas were incorporated
into the second block instead. For this
project, structure of the letter forms
• Printing or watercolour paper
• Watercolours: black, red and blue
• Chisel-ended paintbrushes:
1500s, artists such as Ugo da Carpi is of secondary importance. I was 10mm & 6mm
produced exquisite works more akin more concerned with the letters being • Paint rollers
to paintings than prints. They were revealed due to the removal of simple • Plate glass or Perspex
able to incorporate tones and but structured negative spaces. • White tracing paper made using
highlights into their works by using C300 detail paper with white chalk
a series of woodblocks to build up Jig rubbed over one side
the layers. You need to purchase or make a • Drawing board and geometrical
This enabled them to model framework that can be used to carve equipment
figurative forms – for example, by the blocks and to contain the block • 6H/HB pencils
the application of more or less ink while printing. Each block needs to • Baren, wooden spoon or piece
applied to the tonal blocks. They also be in the same position for the print of timber, for burnishing
experimented with colour to produce run so that everything lines up on • Pigment liner pen (0.5mm)
works displaying differing moods the finished print. The frame should
and intensities. be lower than the height of the block Wood:
This woodcut design was produced residing in it so that during the • 2 × tulipwood (Liriodendron tulipifera)
using two blocks. Technically it should printing process the paper only blocks: 180 × 230 × 25mm
have been made using three but I comes in contact with the printing
decided to dispense with the third block, not the frame.

28 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_28_31_EXTRACT BLOCK PRINTING SUBBED.indd 28 02/08/2017 12:34

 Technique

Design
1 The first step is to sketch out some
ideas for your design. I chose the
words ‘print’ and ‘art’. I then painted
two more versions of the design based
on the same theme. To speed things
up, I traced over parts of the original
design with the pigment pen, and cut
them into sections to cut-and-paste
into the next two.

2 Choose which design you want to

print. I chose my original painting
because it felt the most balanced and
1 2

interesting out of the three designs.

3 Painting several versions of any

design can be useful. It allowed me
to experiment with colour and shapes,
firming up ideas and helping with
decision making. Design time is never
wasted, particularly when things are
not working out. I will often ask other
people for their opinions and ideas,
because once the carving starts any
changes become costly in both time
and money. 3

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 29

WWC31_28_31_EXTRACT BLOCK PRINTING SUBBED.indd 29 02/08/2017 12:34

 Technique

Key block
4 Produce a reverse image of your
design. I produced these for all
three blocks, although I combined
the red and blue stages to save time.
Ensure that the image you use is of the
same quality as the original drawing.

5 Squeeze some black ink on to the

Perspex or plate glass and distribute
using the roller. When you get an even
consistency, cover one of the wooden
blocks with the black ink. When dry,
position your homemade tracing paper
under the design, with the chalk side
4 5
face down. Use a pencil to go over the
lines on the design to transfer it on to
the key block.

6 If the chalk lines are very fine, use

either a V-tool, skew chisel or a
gouge to cut them. The angle of the
tool and the angle of the cut allow you
to produce a very thin top surface and
a much thicker base. In cross-section,
think of a pyramid with a flattened top.

7 Either chisel around the whole

design with the D8/10 gouge, thus
producing a protective barrier for the
vulnerable lines, or chisel away all the 6 7
waste material that is easily accessible
and fine-tune the lines at the end.
I often use a combination of both
methods.

8 When you are satisfied with the

results, your key block is complete.
Use a roller to apply an even covering
of black ink on the raised lines.

9 While the ink is still wet, pin a

piece of clean paper to the frame
surrounding the block. Firmly rub
the burnishing tool over the paper to
produce a print and peel it off.
8 9
Tone block
10 Place the next block into the
same position in the jig. Place
the key block print face down and use
the baren or stick to rub the image on
to the wood.

11 If using an additional tone block,

you should still have enough
ink on the paper print to produce
the design on to that block of wood.
It probably won’t stretch to another
one so you may need another print.
Using the key block print, paint in the
sections you wish to keep and remove
anything you don’t want using scissors.
Place this next to the carving to check 10 11

30 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_28_31_EXTRACT BLOCK PRINTING SUBBED.indd 30 08/08/2017 10:03

 Technique

you are only removing the required

areas.

12 Make sure that the lines

and angles produced at
intersections are correct. A tri-square
and geometrical equipment are useful
for checking for inconsistencies. You
can also use a skew chisel, gouge or a
scalpel if required.

13 Crispness of line is very

important so it is worth spending
extra time to get this right. The bulk of
the carving can be done with the V tool 12 13
17/6 and the D8/10 gouge. Additional
tools can be used when required:
for example, I used the D5/8 for the
internal curve of the ‘R’ and the 3/22 for
the external curve of the ‘P’.

Printing
14 Use a clamp to secure the
paper. Once the paper has been
clamped, it is not removed for the
whole of the printing process so that
all of the blocks are printed on to it in
the same position.

15 Carefully ink the blue sections

of the block using a roller.
Then, avoiding the inked sections, add
14 15
the red ink using a smaller roller or
a paintbrush. The end result should
mean a fully covered and consistently
textured block.

16 Carefully position the paper on

to the inked block and, using
the baren or other appropriate tool,
burnish the surface until you can see
the design embossed on to the paper.
Refer to the reverse image ‘design
sketch’ to help you visualise the areas
to focus on during this process. When
you are happy that all the ink has been
transferred, carefully lift the paper. 16 17
Attaching a bulldog clip to an un-inked
part of the paper will prevent it from
springing back on to the block again.
If you wish, allow this to dry before L er Carving
Le
proceeding to the next step. – Techniques &
Projects to Hone
P

17 Place the key block back into

position in the jig, re-ink it and,
again, lay the paper carefully on top
your Skills
y
by Andrew J.
b
Hibberd
H
and re-burnish.

18 The print is now complete and

should look something like this.
ISBN: 9781861089526
RRP: £16.99 (plus P&P)
Contact: GMC Publications
Tip: Why not try using a variety of Tel: 01273 488 005
textured papers and different coloured Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
inks for this project? ■ 18

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 31

WWC31_28_31_EXTRACT BLOCK PRINTING SUBBED.indd 31 08/08/2017 10:03

 Community

READER GROUP TEST

Welcome to our Reader Group Test by members CMT Formula 2050 blade
of our very own Woodworkers Institute Forum & bit cleaner
CMT Orange Tools based in Italy
makes a wide range of router cutters,
spindle tooling and associated
products. Its Formula 2050 blade
& bit cleaner fits naturally into
the product range. It claims to be
safe, non-flammable and certified
as biodegradable. It is capable of
removing pitch, resin and adhesive
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANKLIN

residue from all woodwork machine

cutting tools. The 500ml hand spray
dispenser is marked ‘industrial
strength’ and priced at £18.12,
also available in a one gallon size at
£58.86, both inc VAT.

Visit: www.tomaco.co.uk
A very gummed-up blade comes up almost like new

What our testers had to say & bit cleaner but I don’t clean cutters How our testers rated
Peter Franklin: I clean my cutters and and tooling regularly enough. After the product
tooling regularly, but I still get a build- I sprayed CMT 2050 cleaner on my
up of deposits on my router cutters Festool saw blade, my Felder euro Product performance ........ 8/10
and saw blades, so currently I’m using block cutters and router bits, I then Ease of use..............................9/10
white spirit and steel wool followed by waited 10 minutes and used an old
How would you rate
wax protector. I was impressed with toothbrush to get into all the tight
the product overall..............8.8/10
the ease of use and the rapid removal corners. Every woodworker should
of the majority of build-up using the realise that clean and sharp tools make
Formula 2050. I would recommend it for safe and clean work. This product saw blade, with five minutes waiting
to other people. does not have a strong odour, unlike time, the effect was to definitely make
other tool cleaners. it easier to remove the deposits, but
Walter Hall: I found the instructions it didn’t help me clean the blade fully
easy to follow. I do get a build-up Robert Ball: Generally I use first time.
of deposits on router cutters and mechanical cleaning with a rag and
sawblades. I clean my cutters with a thumbnail or an old toothbrush. I Radek Sosnowski: I sometimes get
cellulose thinners or methylated clean cutters and tooling infrequently. a build-up of deposits on router
spirit but I don’t clean my cutters and The spray is a bit too aggressive, cutters and saw blades so I use a cloth
tooling as often as I should. However, spreading the cleaner in large and WD40 for cleaning. I experienced
the CMT cleaner was very effective quantities over the item to be cleaned no problems whatsoever – however,
with no problems experienced at all. and anything behind it. I tried it out on the product needs soaking in. I
a circular saw blade, a couple of router would definitely recommend it to
Tom Ryan: I currently use Trend tool bits and a plane blade. On the circular other people. ■
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBERT BALL

Editor’s comment:
You can download a data sheet on the
internet, but you won’t be much further
forward unless you happen to be an
industrial chemist. The chemical composition
is safe if used correctly. To use the Formula
2050 correctly, it does need to be left on long enough to
soak in and loosen deposits. Regular cleaning of cutting
edges is a must as overheating and degraded cutting
performance result from a lack of maintenance. Router cutters get hot and the deposits stick on, but here the muck
has come off

If you would like to be part of our panel of product testers, please go to our website
www.woodworkersinsitute.com – and SIGN UP NOW!

32 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_32_READER_GROUP_TEST SUBBED.indd 32 08/08/2017 09:31

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 PHOTOGRAPHS BY SAM MCCARTHY-FOX/LATE RON FOX UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED Technique

More guide bush work

When it comes to routing let the Editor be your guide

e looked at guide bush may be able to take different diameter not perfect. Just using a guide bush

W working before, but this

time we can go into a bit
more detail. Using guide bushes
guide bushes that are better suited to
specific tasks. If you bought a cheapo
router from a discount store it will be
and a jig or template will give you a
massive advantage in terms of control,
repetition working and avoiding errors
isn’t the only means of controlling made in the Far East and not have any and damage. It allows you to do things
the behaviour of a router but it is system or support to go with it. All is that aren’t possible by other means.
one of the most common and also not necessarily lost, if you need more Accuracy-wise it is plenty good enough
commonly overlooked. That odd diversity of guide bushes you may for most purposes but it used to be the
bit of pressed steel and a couple of be able to attach a device such as the case that some better-quality routers
small machine screws seems a bit Trend Unibase. So what can you do came with a centring device to ensure
pointless, especially if the screws get with a guide bush setup? the guide bush was exactly centred on
lost. However, those screws are almost the cutter. This lack of centration on
certainly standard coarse metric sizes How accurate is it? modern routers means that alignment
and can be replaced and your router The answer is, pretty good but – isn’t up to engineering standards,

34 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_34-37_TECH GUIDEBUSH WORK SUBBED.indd 34 02/08/2017 12:44

 Technique

Each jig or template and router will tend to need a different cutter and guide bush
combination

Every conceivable type

and size of guide bush

but perfectly adequate for most

woodworking tasks. The Unibase does
come with a centring device because
there are so many hole alignment
options you need to be sure it is
matched up to your own router.
A centring device will help ensure the guide bush is centred on the cutter accurately
Do I need jigs and
templates?
We have covered this before, but I How do I work out the jig What is the difference
cannot stress enough the need for or template? between a jig and a
control of the router by one means First of all you have to identify a need. template?
or another. A typical task such as This might be possible at the start of a An interesting question. In a nutshell,
machining hinge recess is a very hit and project or it may be when you are faced a jig is a device for specific operation,
miss affair without a jig and a matching with a challenge during the build. such as machining a mortise. A
guide bush and cutter. There are many It can seem hard to justify creating template is for creating a shape such
other examples where a router can something just for one job, but if it as alphabet letters, for example. Very
perform tasks that would otherwise be is going to make the work easier and occasionally a jig and template could
done by hand, but – and this is the big a more predictable outcome, then I effectively be combined, such as a
but – you do need a jig to do it. This would suggest it is worth it. In fact, template for the curved back leg of
means investing some time and effort in most jigs aren’t very complicated – it is a chair which also has a cutout for
creating the required jig but it is worth just the mental confusion around how machining a back rail mortise. Jigs
it and it can be used again and again. to create them that is the problem. and templates are used for all sorts of ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 35

WWC31_34-37_TECH GUIDEBUSH WORK SUBBED.indd 35 08/08/2017 10:05

 PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
Technique

Vernier callipers are an essential method of checking respective Using a hinge jig with guide bush that allows the cutter to
diameters when calculating the offset almost reach the corners, a chisel will be used to square them
to take the hinge

manufacturing and craft activity but not and the significance of that – but I if the cutter needs to ‘run around’ a
the ones used for routing are mostly won’t, you’ll be glad to hear. Instead, larger opening it means the corners are
designed to work with a guide bush buy yourself a Vernier calliper – the more rounded and may need squaring
and cutter. modern digital ones are easy to read out with a chisel, which can defeat part
but battery hungry. You will find of the reason for a guide bush.
Tell me how to make a using them most instructive as almost So the diameter of the cutter –
typical jig everything you try to measure won’t be 12.7mm – has to be subtracted from
The one thing you must always bear in quite the size it claims to be... the 19mm guide bush diameter =
mind is the size relationship between 6.3mm, this is divided in half =
the cutter diameter, the guide bush Setting out a jig 3.15mm. This is the amount your jig
diameter and the actual line or shape Suppose you want to machine a or template would need to be larger,
you want to machine to. It isn’t that mortise 75mm long x 25mm wide. A so you end up with the right size of
confusing but it can seem so as they standard diameter long straight cutter mortise. For convenience, round the
are different sizes. Added to that is the chosen could be 12.7mm (old ½in) this size down to 3mm – compromise is
fact that guide bushes are normally cutter might just pass through a 16mm necessary for sanity here – 3mm would
made to whole millimetre diameters O/D (outside diameter) guide bush therefore be your guide bush offset in
but are frequently not correct due to but more likely it would need to be this instance.
mass manufacturing techniques and a 19mm size which didn’t come with
compounded by cutter diameters that the router. So if you are lucky and can Jig fencing or fixing
are sometimes not whole millimetres get a larger guide bush to fit, because The jig or template needs to be
because they are based on traditional it is larger the radius means the cutter accurately cut out and shaped as the
imperial sizes. I could write a treatise won’t go as far into the corners. This is guide bush will follow any deviations.
on measurements, their accuracy or not a problem with a single run cut but Primary cuts can be done with a router
and fence and possibly a jigsaw, but
tidying up will need a fine rasp or
wood file. It needs to be fixed in place
and this could be a batten screwed
underneath in the correct position so it
can be clamped against the side of the
workpiece or, in the case of a template,
it might be pinned or held with thick
carpet double-sided tape. Test cuts
are essential to making sure you have
the fencing or fixing in the correct
position. By measuring the component
to be machined you should be able to
work out where this is to be.

Some woodworkers enjoy creating

jigs and templates at least as much as
the actual project. This is no bad thing,
The difference in size between cutter and guide bush is greater than normal, but in this if you can conquer your jigmaking
case the hand hole shape has rounded ends so it doesn’t matter. A larger cutter will blues you too can have some fun
make the hole bigger making the impossible – possible. ■

36 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Technique

Backgammon board– the guide bush sequence

PHOTOGRAPHS ON THIS PAGE BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Marking out the guide bush offset Machining the outline shape with a very small cutter and
guide bush

Once all outlines

are machined,
swap to a larger
cutter and guide
bush to remove
the waste areas

After trimming and casing the result

Cut and shaped fingers of contrast wood glued in place is a fine backgammon board

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 37

WWC31_34-37_TECH GUIDEBUSH WORK SUBBED.indd 37 02/08/2017 12:44

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038_WWC_031.indd 38 8/4/17 3:56 PM
 Kit & Tools

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Proxxon polishing
machine PM100 test
The Editor is used to big power tools and
machines. Would a baby polisher go down well?
roxxon is a German-built make, mandrel and the softer one on the

P designed mainly for smaller-scale

work – craft, model-making,
detailing, etc. Although you can buy
right. The instructions don’t mention
mounting fully, for safety reasons I
imagine. I switched the unit on at slow
for removing traces of compound and,
of course, you can buy different brand
compounds if you so choose. Create
bigger polishing machines, this one speed and, avoiding touching either an enclosed setting to catch all the
doesn’t look too weeny and suggests of the blunt mandrel points, simply polishing spatter and wear old clothes.
it should be good for action. It can be pressed the mops on one at a time so The siting of the controls at the rear is
either screwed to a bench or board the thread carried them on. I let go apparently a consequence of a redesign
or the sturdy clamp will fix it firmly to and, instantly, voila – done. that allows long, awkward workpieces
the edge of a work surface – handy if Modern drawn brass hinges are dull to lie close to the axis of the shaft.
you are at a table, jeweller’s bench or but with some polishing they have a Overall though, I was very impressed
doing demonstrations. It has two mop real chance to shine. So I added some although price-wise it isn’t cheap. The
mandrels, both threaded for forward compound on the left-hand wheel only letdown was the instructions,
running. The right-hand one can be and proceeded to buff up, holding the which aren’t easy to understand. ■
removed to fit other accessories. It hinge downwards for safety, working
has a variable-speed knob and on-off with the rotation. A couple of minutes’
switch in the non-logical but most work did the trick but there was dirty Tech spec
practical siting on the back slope of the compound evident and unevenness of Proxxon PM100 polishing machine
machine. The shield around the mops finish. The soft fabric right-hand wheel
can easily be adjusted using a supplied dealt with it instantly and you can see DC motor with electronic speed
Allen key and needs to be removed if the contrast between raw, drawn brass control 1,000-3,100 rpm
you do a mandrel change in order to and the polished result. Twin mandrels for 100mm dia.
access the spanner flats at both ends. polishing wheels
Again there are two spanners supplied. Verdict Optional accessories – additional
Several observations. This machine muslin wheels, microfibre wheel, felt
In use has plenty of power and you can cloth wheel, universal paste polishing
Setting up is easy but you need to max this out by turning up the speed stick suitable for all materials
familiarise yourself with the shield although be wary with small fragile
adjustment and, of course, you need objects where slow running and a Price: £233.38 inc VAT
to fit the mops. The yellow muslin one light touch are best. Keep spare mops Visit: www.brimarc.com
is coarser so I put it on the left-hand handy, a cleanish soft one is needed

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 39

WWC31_39_TEST PROXXON SUBBED.indd 39 08/08/2017 10:05

 Power,
Performance,
Perfection.

TREND T5
1000W ROUTER
Compact powerful, variable
speed router for light and
medium duty applications.
OFFER PRICE
List Price £267.94

£149
INC VAT

INCLUDES

Precision Micro Adjustable 300mm Beam Trammel Clip-in 20mm

AD/17/10

1/4” Collet Side Fence Fence Rods Attachment Dust Spout Guide Bush

Available from over 350 Trend Routing Centres

& Stockists in the UK & Ireland.
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040_WWC_031.indd 40 8/8/17 2:28 PM

 Community

Meet the contributors...

We put all of this month’s professional and reader contributors
here, so you know exactly who they are and what they do

Louise Biggs Michael T Collins

Having completed her City & Guilds, Louise British-born Michael has been working with wood
trained for a further four years at the London off and on for 40 years. He moved to New York
College of Furniture. She joined a London firm in 1996 and, over the years, has made bespoke
working for the top antique dealers and interior furniture, including clocks, inlay work, Adams
d i
designers iin L
London before starting her own business designing fireplaces,
l b k cases and reproduction furniture.
book
and making bespoke furniture and restoring furniture. Web: www.sawdustandwoodchips.com
Web: www.anthemion-furniture.co.uk

Simon Rodway
Andy Hibberd Simon Rodway also runs LineMine, a website with
Andy trained as a woodcarver at City & Guilds. articles and online courses on drawing software.
He was mentored by David Holgate, a leading A new course, SketchUp for Woodworkers, is
figure in lettering and figurative carving. His proving really popular.
workshop is in Norfolk and he can be found W
Web: www.linemine.com/courses
Web: www line
d t ti at shows up and down the country. To see more
demonstrating
of Andy’s work, visit his website at:
Web: www.andyhibberd.co.uk
Gary Marshall
Gary has had a life-long interest in woodlands
and the countryside. He trained in countryside
Amber Bailey management and subsequently ran a company
Amber Bailey is a marquetarian and surface design working with the local County Councils and
artist with a background in furniture restoration. U it
Unitary A th
Authority and their Countryside and Rights of Way
She has trained in prestigious decorative art teams, as well as a wide range of conservation organisations.
schools both sides of the English Channel and is
now based in North Wales, working for a furniture
company using laser cut marquetry.
Web: www.abmarquetry.com Kevin Ley
Email: ab.marquetry@gmail.com On leaving the RAF in 1987 Kevin Ley set to
turning his hobby into a commercial proposition.
The former squadron leader designs and makes
bespoke furniture from his cottage and workshop
in the wilds of Shropshire, England.

Your face and details could appear here in our ‘rogues gallery’ if you write an
article for the magazine, and you could be rewarded for your efforts too

Editor Anthony Bailey Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com, Designer Jan Morgan, Head of SUBSCRIPTION RATES (includes postage & packing)
Woodworking Design Oliver Prentice, Senior Editorial Administrator Karen Scott, Illustrator UK Europe Rest of World
Simon Rodway (www.linemine.com), Chief Photographer Anthony Bailey, Group Editor, 12 issues: £51.00 £63.75 £71.40
Woodworking Mark Baker, Production Manager Jim Bulley, Production Controller Amanda 24 issues: £102.00 £127.50 £142.80
Allsopp Email: repro@thegmcgroup.com, Publisher Jonathan Grogan, Advertising Sales Executive
Russell Higgins Email: russellh@thegmcgroup.com, US customers should call the Subscription Department for subscription rates in USD ($).
Marketing Anne Guillot, Subscriptions Helen Johnson Tel: 01273 402 873 Fax: 01273 478 606
Cheques made payable to: GMC Publications Ltd.
Email: helenj@thegmcgroup.com
Current subscribers will automatically receive a renewal notice (excludes direct debit
Printed in the UK by Stephens and George Print Group, Distributed by Seymour Distribution Ltd
subscribers). Post your order to: The Subscription Department, GMC Publications Ltd, 166
Tel: 020 7429 4000 WOODWORKING CRAFTS (ISSN 2057-3456) is published every four weeks
High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XU, UK. Tel: +44 (0)1273 488 005 Fax: +44 (0) 1273
by GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XN
402866 Email: pubs@thegmcgroup.com Web: www.thegmcgroup.com

Woodworking is an inherently dangerous pursuit. Readers should not attempt the procedures described herein without seeking training and information on the safe use of tools and machines, and all readers should
observe current safety legislation. Views and comments expressed by individuals in the magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publishers and no legal responsibility can be accepted for the results of
the use by readers of information or advice of whatever kind given in this publication, either in editorial or advertisements. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 41

WWC31_41_CONTRIBUTORS SUBBED.indd 41 02/08/2017 12:46

 Project

PLANS 4YOU
Garden
trolley
Simon Rodway doesn’t let
the grass grow under his
feet – he’s too busy tending
his garden

f you do any kind of gardening at all, you will soon

I encounter the type of lifting I had to do the other day

for elderly parents – namely, large bags of compost
from car boot to potting location. While this garden trolley
won’t spare you some of that lifting, it can certainly ease the
transporting of heavy or bulky objects around the garden, allow the handle to rotate freely. If you make your trolley
which is an integral part of life for all gardeners. wider than shown, you will have to lengthen the tow plate
One of the great things about making something like this accordingly.
is you can choose just how big your trolley is going to be. As usual, I have tried to stick to standard timber sections
Varying the overall size from the dimensions shown should to minimise work and waste and, additionally, to source
be quite simple, with one cautionary note – the tow plate these as pre-treated, given the fact that your trolley is likely
which is screwed to the underside of the axle bar, fitting to experience a bit of weather. This obviously must include
round the pivot rod and securing nut, is designed to clear the 18mm plywood, which is used for the main platform, the
the side of the trolley even when the towing handle is at tow plate, the angled brackets at the front on the sides and
right angles, so that the hinge between the two can still the axle bearers at the back.

Plywood platform Plywood axle bearer

Plywood front panel screwed down all drilled for axle rod and
screwed to trolley base round to timber framing screwed to trolley base
and timber uprights

Axle bar rotates around

central pivot rod drilled
into stopped hole in
Handle bar hinged off tow plate timber bearer above with
with dowel drilled through top steel washers between bar
section to form pulling handle and bearer
Steel brackets holding front
wheel assembly screwed either
Tow plate shaped to fit around pivot side into underneath of axle bar
and screwed to underside of axle bar

Front axle in sleeve with washers either side

42 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_42-43_PLANS FOR YOU_GARDEN TROLLEY.indd 42 02/08/2017 12:46

 Project

45

18 38
700 400
SECTION THROUGH TROLLEY 465 SIDE ELEVATION

780 259
150
18
18
47 65 47
70 70 45
5
70 45 250 255
Ø260
Ø160
18
300

PLAN VIEW OF FRONT

250 SECTION THROUGH FRONT
AXLE ASSEMBLY
WHEEL ASSEMBLY
47

300
18
100 47
220 100 400 396 47 490 45

400

47

The construction of the main part of the trolley is very

simple – a rectangular platform screwed down on to a Cutting list
treated softwood frame or base which runs around the
perimeter, with a front panel added using timber uprights to Platform 1 @ 780 X 490 X 18
reinforce the panel and help to join it to the side plywood Side frame 2 @ 780 X 47 X 47
brackets. Everything is held together using plenty of twinfast End frame 2 @ 396 X 47 X 47
screws, but not glued. Additionally, the base of the trolley Front panel 1 @ 490 X 400 X 18
is reinforced at the front using a couple of larger section Uprights 2 @ 400 X 38 X 25
bearers running side to side. These will help to transfer Front brackets 2 @ 250 X 259 X 18
the load from the front axle bar, a shorter section of timber Back wheel brackets 2 @ 255 X 150 X 18
that has a hole drilled through centrally to take the vertical Bearers 2 @ 526 X 70 X 45
steel pivot. The bearer above the axle bar has a stopped Axle bar 1 @ 400 X 47 X 47
hole drilled for the same steel pivot. Steel washers between Tow plate 1 @ 300 X 100 X 18
the axle bar and the bearer above help to prevent the two Handle bar 1 @ 700 X 70 X 45
binding together, and the pivot rod should be secured at the Handle 1 @ Ex 220 x 25 diameter
bottom using a locknut and more washers.
The axle bar is designed to carry the smaller diameter front Cutting list includes timber components only. Please source
wheels, with the larger back wheels held by plywood axle wheels, steel brackets and fixings for wheels first.
bearers or brackets, screwed into the sides of the trolley, and
drilled through to take a steel axle rod. It is really essential to
source the front and back wheels and the front steel brackets the brackets, for example. In any case, you need to ensure
before buying the rest of the components, as the diameter of that the tow plate, screwed up into the axle bar, will fit
the front wheels and the size of the steel brackets will affect snugly between the wheels without binding the movement
the height of the front assembly. You should then be able at all. The handle bar, once it has been drilled and a piece
to adjust the height of the back axle, taking into account the of dowel with rounded ends inserted near the top, can then
diameter of your back wheels, to make sure your trolley is be joined to the tow plate using a strong hinge. The length
fairly level when it is all put together. of this bar can of course be adjusted, like the rest of the
The two front wheels are shown separated by a steel sleeve trolley, to suit you. All that remains is to add a couple of
with washers at both ends, but there are other potential coats of weatherproofing of your choice, and your trolley is
solutions to this – your wheels may be fixed in some way to ready for work. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 43

WWC31_42-43_PLANS FOR YOU_GARDEN TROLLEY.indd 43 02/08/2017 12:46

 Community

Clockwise from top left: Kerryn

in her workshop; Steampunk
watches; pencil boot; New
Guinea rosewood mallet with
acanthus carving; angel wings

44 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_44-47_FEATURE_TOOLSCHOOL SUBBED.indd 44 08/08/2017 09:29

 Communityy

KERRYN CARTER
TOOLSCHOOL
Mention Sydney, Australia
and the first things that spring
to mind are the Bridge, the
Harbour or the Opera House –
but then there is Toolschool…
while ago I was trawling through Instagram and

A stumbled across Toolschool and lots of interesting

stuff created by the name of Kerryn Carter. My

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF KERRYN CARTER

fellow editor Derek Jones had certainly heard of her and
so had my daughter Amber, so a little shamefacedly I felt I DIY growing up
needed to catch up rather quickly on her life and work in Kerryn’s dad John Dixon was a boilermaker by trade but
the shoreside, sunkissed suburb of Darling Point, Sydney. A when that industry declined he went on to teach industrial
few attempts at Skype and Facetime later we were happily arts in a high school. She grew up in a ‘DIY household’ as she
chatting, albeit at different ends of our respective working puts it. Even at the tender age of five she would follow him
days. Fascinating it was too, learning about her progression into that magical place – ‘the workshop’, while her brother
from law to that of a full-time professional woodworker. showed no great interest at all, but like any keen son or
daughter she used to watch Dad tackle all sorts of home
Learning for life repairs and also building beautiful furniture and antique
Becoming a woodworker and already being a mum restoration. She realised even then, that her dad must have
concerned about her children’s education and life vast practical knowledge and skill with tools.
experiences, it occurred to Kerryn that there was something
missing. In 2014 she let her kids ‘help’ in the workshop. Working by degrees
Kerryn realised they could safely use simple tools and they Dad told her she must get a white collar job so she could
loved doing it, hammering nails or driving screws into ‘do better than him’. So at 17 years old she went to the
offcuts of wood and they had lots of ideas and enthusiasm. University of Arizona to study accountancy and while
Then a local school asked her to teach the students there she ran as a track and field athlete. Her first job after
woodworking. They enjoyed the activities too and thus graduation was in San Francisco and then in a diamond
Toolschool came about. mine in the Arctic! After a stint volunteering for charities
in Malaysia, Kerryn returned to Australia and took a law
Teaching methods degree. Settling in Sydney, she got married and worked
To start with Kerryn found all the teaching literature she in a top tier law firm. When two sons came along Kerryn
could, but it was completely out of date so she developed decided that a real change in her life was due, stepping
her own teaching methods and programme plus a series of away from the corporate world she had known so well.
projects which will eventually be published as a teaching
resource for other teachers to use. One source of inspiration Realising that dream
has been the American scouting organisation as she is keen Kerryn had always dreamed of being a woodworker so it
on survival techniques. was only natural that as a very practical person she would
gravitate to her first interest, woodworking. Her father
Class action died while she was still in law practice (Kerryn is still a
The name Toolschool requires no explanation, but how qualified lawyer) so she took a difficult decision at that
it works in practice does. Kids aged from six to 12 years time, to learn woodworking and signed up at Heartwood
old are taught all about tools and woodworking. They Creative Woodworking in Sydney under the tutelage of
get to learn all the basics – plan drawing, sawing a board, Stuart Faulkner for the next four years. Kerryn moved all
drilling, hammering nails, screwdriving, sanding, gluing and of her father’s workshop into her garage and conservatory
painting, etc. They get to make exciting projects such and has added more to it over the years. So it is now the
as miniature rafts, cars and ‘bagbot’ robot keyrings to home of Toolschool!
name a few. ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 45

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 Community

However, all the projects have to gain the approval of her

two sons (Stirling, 9 and Austin, 6) before classes get the
chance to try them for themselves. The classes are held
on Saturdays in several small groups of five kids at a time,
who are given safetywear and work under constant careful
guidance. Unfortunately anyone suffering with asthma
cannot take part because of the dust hazard, but it is
otherwise a safe, well-run environment for kids.

Making it fun
Trying to maintain children’s interest in woodworking when
there are so many other distractions, such as computer
games, is a real challenge. A typical project could take weeks,
not the short time it takes to play a game on your phone.
Kerryn says it is the level of detail that makes it interesting.
One project is a Steampunk watch, which the kids love to
add their own detail to and then wear to school to impress
eve
everyone because it looks cool.

Top: Kerryn using her Powermatic bandsaw

Above left: Toolschool kids taking part in Better
Homes and Gardens TV show
Above right: Preparing for The Lost Trades Fair

Darling Point, Sydney, NSW

46 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_44-47_FEATURE_TOOLSCHOOL SUBBED.indd 46 09/08/2017 15:59

 Community

Cars, camera and ‘bagbot’ Top: iPhone TV. Above: blasters!

Tool technique ambassador. Working on her own means gleaning useful

It is interesting that Kerryn regards the Japanese pullsaw as information from Lost Art Press books and Australian Wood
the basis for learning, rather than a typical Western tenon Review magazine, as well as interesting Instagram postings.
saw. ‘It’s a great tool in terms of body mechanics,’ she says, Upcycling is important too, so anything and everything
because of the stance and arm movement. Next is a Surform can get incorporated creatively into projects Kerryn is busy
because it so good at shaping curves and after that drilling. making and may well turn up as handy YouTube clips. You
She gives a safety demonstration for each type of tool so can see loads of Kerryn’s projects being built on Instagram
the kids understand how to use it properly. They are fast and the notorious video clip ‘hammer flipping’ – not to be
learners and pick up the basics so long as they are taught recommended to readers.
properly. However, they are not allowed to use power tools.
The future
The workshop Living in a very big country and having lived and worked in
Although on a hot, sunny day Sydney is a wonderful place the US, Kerryn thinks nothing of travelling to meet other
to be, it isn’t always possible to work al fresco on people in the business, like her visit at the start of the year
workbenches in the back yard. Instead, during the winter to HNT Gordon in Ballina, nearer to Brisbane on the Gold
months the under-bench heating keeps the workshop warm. Coast, to see how the Aston Martin of wooden hand planes
Incidentally, it is located just two streets from the waterfront is made, or travelling to the US for the Woodworking In
with spectacular views across the harbour bay. America conference in 2016. In a nutshell, it’s looking
bright. Kerryn is always keen to learn more and pass on that
The day job knowledge in her teaching. We await her future progress
Kerryn is very family oriented with her husband, Douglas, with great interest, as do all her 40,000 Instagram followers.
and the boys always highest on the list of priorities, but even
so she is always busy with various woodworking projects and (P.S. I’m very hopeful that Kerryn will be doing a blog in the
more recently working with Ryobi Power Tools as a brand magazine, so watch this space – Ed.) ■

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 Technique

The fundamentals of..

John Lovaħ looks at
various types of drilling
and boring tools for use
on the lathe
irst off, let’s run through the

F various types of drilling and

boring tooling for use on a
woodturning lathe, but before doing
so, and in order to avoid getting
picked up on a point of correct
nomenclature, you’ll no doubt spot
that the article uses the terms ‘bit’ and
‘auger’, for ‘drills’ they are not. Even
so, it’s more than likely that bits will Colt Forstner bits for
still be called drills. clean cu ng of holes

CENTRE BITS

hese are primarily metal-turning being formed off the chosen centre
T lathe accessories and may not be
all that familiar to many woodturners
mark position – an obvious boon
where accurate multi-centre recesses 60
(see Figure 1). They are, however, are required. It also avoids the
very useful in providing a means of undesirable practice of creating a
cutting accurate 60° centre recesses recess by forcing the tailstock centre
to perfectly match the cone angle into the workpiece.
of standard live centres. They can Centre bits are double ended and
be held in a hand drill, a drill press, available in a range of sizes, with
or in a tailstock-mounted drill the most useful having a pilot lead
chuck as appropriate, thus avoiding diameter of 2-3mm (3⁄32-1⁄8in) with a
concentricity problems of a recess body diameter of about 6mm (1⁄4in). Figure 1

TWIST BITS

he plain versions, without ‘spurs’ the holes while there is a small

T (see Figures 2a and 2b), are
predominantly designed for drilling
amount of material left on the workpiece
as a clean-up allowance (as shown in
hard, man-made materials, such as Figure 2c).
metals, plastics, etc., and as such
are usually made in high speed steel Point Angle*
(HSS). For woodturners, this means Cutting Lip Relief Angle
the steel is more or less unaffected
by the heat generated during re- Throat
or Shank
sharpening on a grinding wheel.
Although not specifically Flute
Land (the raised part) *The most common angle being 118°
manufactured for drilling holes in
wood, they can, and do, have a role Figure 2b Figure 2a
to play, and certainly in very small Finishing allowance
diameters there is no other choice. Splinters
Perhaps the main fault is the
splintering, or ‘ragging’ that occurs at Figure 2c
Hole
the lip of a drilled hole, but this can Workpiece
often be overcome by drilling

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 Technique

f...drilling on the lathe

TWIST BITS

Tip
Figure 3a When drilling very
small holes,
set the drill as far ins
Figure 3a chuck as you can –
ide the drill
Spur-tipped bits are specifically designed for woodworking. The spurs, or ‘nickers’, the shorter
the projection, the
provide a cutting action to slice through the grain fibres, thus generally avoiding the stiffer the drill
splintering, or ragging, that occurs with ordinary twist bits. However, the precaution will be to resist be
ing deflected
of leaving a small cleaning-up allowance is still prudent. by hard spots, knob
s or grain
Because there is no lead form on such drills, they have a projecting lead or grooves in the wood
.
centrepoint which engages the workpiece and holds the drill steady on axis until the
spurs have cut into the work surface
Try to
maintain
Figure 3b Figure 3c the original Deflexion
angle

Variant
Figure 3b Figure 3c
Here a similar approach is being used, but Sharpening spur tips is relatively straightforward
this time angling the cutting lip inwards versus sharpening ordinary twist bits, providing it
to create a sharper tip form at the point of is dealt with properly. Hold the bit firmly in a vice
engagement, but retaining the centrepoint and, using a good-quality diamond file (ideally a
feature. This is not as effective as the true square one), follow the original angled cutting face,
spur tip design, but superior to ordinary Only sharpen spurs trying to keep it as flat as possible and filing both
twist bits in terms of a clean entry into lightly on the inside sides equally. The variant (shown in Figure 3b) is
the workpiece. somewhat easier to sharpen.

SPUR-TYPE BITS

he size range of spur-type bits is hole finish. There are other bit designs of inferior ones to choose from.
T generally between 3mm (1⁄8in) and
20mm (3⁄4in) diameter. At the upper
that could be considered, but generally
where larger diameters are concerned
One further factor is how the bit
is to be guided into the workpiece.
size range they are in competition the choice is clearly between If the method of guiding requires
with the sawtooth bits (multi-spur in sawtooth and Forstner. A good some accuracy in the approach angle
the US) and Forstner bits, and below quality auger of both types is quite a using a proprietary steel drilling jig
3mm diameter there is no choice bit more expensive than spur bits. or guide – more of which later – spur-
apart from standard twist drill bits. This presupposes that purchasing lipped bits are easier to work with
On the larger cutters, the most criteria be a combination of and are less likely to be damaged
popular choice would be the performance and long-term by contact with the bore of the said
sawtooth bit (see Figure 4a), as they economic value, rather than buying jig. Drilling from the tailstock is not
cut more easily and quickly and at a cheap price – there are plenty affected by this consideration. ➤
with a little less force and frictional
heat generation than a Forstner bit
(see Figure 4b). Set against this is
the fact that Forstner bits impart a
superior surface finish to a hole and
a slightly better square-bottom finish. Figure 4a
The available range of sizes depends
on the manufacturer, but generally
within the range of 7mm (1⁄4in) to
around 100mm (4in) diameter.
Where, in size terms, the choice to
move away from spur-type bits is made, Figure 4b
it is partially a matter of personal
preference and the required quality of

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 Technique

RUNNING SPEEDS

ome consideration needs to be given to minimising the heat generated

S by keeping down the running speeds for these larger bits, and in
particular with Forstner bits as they generate more heat from friction than
SAWTOOTH & FORSTNER RUNNING SPEEDS
Bit Ї
Mm 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80
(in) (3 8 ) (3 4 ) (11 4) (11 2 ) (2) (21 2) (3) (31 2)
other types. This is because the rim action is that of a knife which cuts by 100
being pushed into the workpiece, rather than with a sawing action. The 200

chart shows the recommended maximum revolutions per minute (rpm) 300
400
relative to the cutter diameter.
500
600

‘Some consideration needs to be given to Max

RPM
700
800

minimising the heat generated by keeping down 900

1000

the running speeds for these larger bits, and in 1100

1200
Max Hardwood RPM
particular with Forstner bits as they generate 1300
1400
Max Softwood RPM

more heat from friction than other types’ 1500

SHARPENING SAWTOOTH AND FORSTNER BITS

Maintaining sharp edges, particularly extension adds about 150mm (6in)

on Forstner bits, is important. extra reach for the bit. Sharpen only
Frequent touching up on the cutting They may be hard to find, but there the cutting edge,
edges is preferable to having a grand are companies in the world that leave the gullet
session well after any reasonable make other, smaller diameters to take untouched
edge has come and gone. Apart from 6-8-10mm shanks, and in a variety of
simply having bits with good, clean longer lengths.
cutting ability, it is easier to preserve
the original angles and edges if the Try to maintain
dressing of the bits only requires light the original angles
attention. For the purpose of accessing
Sharpen the
the various surfaces and shapes, a
circular lip, or
selection of ‘fine’ or ‘very fine’-grade
diamond files is recommended (see
knife edge, on Figure 4c
Figure 4c and Figure 4d). And one big the inside only
‘do not’ – do not ever file the outside using a small
Note: The peripheral or
diameter of either bit. slip or diamond
circular lip should be
Sawtooth and Forstner bits can be file
about 0.3 to 0.5mm
used to bore much deeper holes, such
Try to maintain (12 to 20 thou in)
as the first stages of hollowing a deep
original cutting higher than the
vessel, by the addition of an extension
shank, as shown in Figure 4e.
edge angles main cutting edges.
Extension shanks usually have Figure 4d
12mm (1⁄2in) diameter or bores which
match exactly the shank diameter of
the bit. The head of the extension
shank would be about 21mm (53⁄64in)
diameter, so in practical terms they
are only practicable for bits larger than
22mm (7⁄8in) diameter. Generally, the Figure 4e

OTHER DRILLING BITS

Perhaps it is stating the obvious, but A considerable number of bit this article. And, of course, there are
the production of holes can also be design variants in the world are too still plenty of older bits in the world,
achieved using a much wider range specialised to be of fundamental such as, say, a ‘Scotch’ bit, which
of drilling bits than is practicable to interest, because they are just undoubtedly a turner somewhere in
include in this article. Hence limiting adaptations of standard tooling, the world uses to start a workpiece
the range to try to set out a fair such as stepped diameter bits, hollowing process, but in practicable
representation, and a fundamental integral counterbore bits, or those terms is the same as a ‘Jennings’
understanding of the differences of the bits that only possess a marginal pattern bit (see opposite) without
bits that are currently available. difference from those included in the spurs.

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 Technique

EXPANSIVE BIT

lso known as an expanding bit, or blade arrangement to produce a Running speeds are difficult to
A an adjustable bit, due to the design
feature that allows the cutting blade
square-bottomed hole, but generally of
a poorer quality than is achievable with
suggest because of the different
designs. The wisest advice suggested
components to be set for any hole sawtooth or Forstner bits. running as slowly as possible, but for
diameter within the size range limit of If this type of bit appeals then, for a robust bit in the right circumstances,
each particular bit (see Figure 5a). safety reasons at least, some care needs running speed would be similar to a
Most expansive bits typically have to be exercised in choosing both make sawtooth bit.
ranges like: 16mm (5⁄8in) to 45mm and model. Only consider the sturdy
(13⁄4in), or 20mm to 50mm (2in) ones specifically designed for use in SAFETY ADVICE
diameter. However, some are supplied power tools, and if it’s to be used in a
with interchangeable cutting facilities: drill press, or on the lathe, then only Avoid using
any Bit with
22mm (7⁄8in) to 76mm (3in) diameter. consider the ones that have a captive either a threaded nose
They have a single spur and flat clamping plate/blade assembly. or square tang on a lathe

Spur or 'nicker'
Adjustable cutter Clamping screw Figure 5b
Integral cutter
Power tool shank
Fixed centre point Scale datum
0

Diameter setting scale

Figure 5a
Clamping plate
Clamping Plate slideway in shank

OTHER BITS
here are other bit types, such as of this type are really designed for hand They are available in a wide range of
T the machine auger bit (shown
in Figure 4b), also known as a levin,
or power drilling, as they often have a
tap form or spiral worm nose point to
diameters from 6mm (1⁄4in) to 32mm
(11⁄4in), and in a wide range of lengths
or universal, bit. As you’ll see, it has pull the bit into the workpiece, and are from short ‘hobby’ models to around
a helical form with a single spur and therefore not desirable if held in the 600mm (24in) in length. The running
either one or two cutting lips. Most bits tailstock of a lathe. speed is similar to spur tip bits.

Figure 5c Figure 5c
Here, we see a ‘Jennings’ pattern
auger bit featuring two cutting lips
and two spurs.

Figures 5e Figure 5e
Figure 5d and 5f
Spade or flat bits
Figure 5d are not the most (without spurs)
This illustrates the ‘Irwin’ variant, with a wider, or slower accurate cutters
helix, which is better at accommodating wood shavings. in the world and
Both are fairly rare in machine versions – most that are are certainly a
still available have square-ended hand brace shanks, and bit rough and Figure 5f
tap form points. This once-popular bit had many other ready. However,
variations, particularly in the business end department, treated with a
such as the ‘Gedge’, Bullnose, Scotch (or Irwin as already little respect. (with spurs)
mentioned), and L’Hommedieu, etc. They are capable
of boring less
Figure 5g important holes
The predecessor of the split-nose
long hole boring bit featured in Figure 5g
Woodturning magazine issue 191,
these are generally available only in
8mm (5⁄16in) or 9.5mm (3⁄8in) diameter
and still available for that purpose.

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 Kit & Tools

KITTED OUT
Take a look at the tools, gadgets and gizmos that
we think you will enjoy using in your workshop
Makita’s latest pencil drivers
The latest versions of Makita’s compact but powerful 7.2v pencil drill
driver and impact driver have a host of enhanced features – more
rpm, more tightening torque and enhanced controls. These pencil
screwdrivers weigh just over half a kilo and can be used in either pistol-
grip mode or as ‘in-line long handle’ powered screwdrivers.
The new Makita TD022DSE 7.2v pencil impact driver will now run up
to 2,450rpm, deliver up to 3,000 impacts per minute and generate 25Nm
of tightening torque, which is sufficient to drive home a M8 standard bolt
or machine screw. A new rotary switch conveniently placed on the motor
body selects forward variable speed and reverse rotation.
The Makita DF012DSE pencil drill driver has two speed ranges, up to
650rpm with a maximum 3.6Nm of tightening torque on high speed and
on low speed up to 200rpm, that can deliver 5.6Nm of torque. With 21+
drill settings selected by the rotating collar on the chuck housing, this ¼in
From hex drive drill will drive a 5mm hole in steel and 6mm in timber.
£136.80 TD022DSE 7.2v pencil impact driver: SSP £136.80 inc VAT
inc vat DF012DSE 7.2v pencil drill driver: SSP £189.60 inc VAT

Contact: www.makitauk.com

Roxil wood protection cream Fisco Tools A1-Plus

Weatherproof wooden structures for 10-plus years with a single coat. hi-vis tapes
New Roxil wood protection cream from Safeguard Europe weatherproofs Excellent-value measuring from one of the
wooden surfaces while retaining their natural appearance and allowing them to UK’s long-standing favourite brand of tapes.
age naturally. With a single coat the water uptake in timber is reduced, giving an With EC Class II measuring accuracy,
improved resistance to warping, reduced mould and algae growth and neater- these new hi-vis tapes have a tough ABS
looking timber constructions. Best of all, Roxil only has to be applied once. The case with a high-impact rubber overmould,
cream formula enables a dripless, precise application with brush or roller – no pre- combining hardwearing reliability with ease
treatments necessary. Simply clean the surface, apply Roxil and wait for it to absorb of use. There are three models, available
into the substrate. in 5m and 8m lengths with 19mm and 25mm
Roxil wood protection cream - 3litre tub £29.99 inc VAT blade width variants. Each has a handy belt
clip, self-zeroing end-hook and a ‘positive
Contact: www.safeguardeurope.com £29.99 action’ brake. These A1-Plus hi-vis tapes
inc vat should satisfy most general measuring
tasks on site.

Contact: www.fisco.co.uk
From
£4.80
inc vat

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 Kit & Tools

ProDesign apron
– no strings attached
Here is a new apron design from The
ToolPost. The fabric is pre-washed heavy-
duty cotton cloth in a natural oatmeal
colour. Heavier than conventional apron
fabric, it will withstand heavy use and
frequent washing while offering an
enhanced degree of physical protection.
The bib section is wider than usual,
providing greater wrap and improved
upper body coverage, and long to
afford maximum lower limb protection.
ProDesign aprons feature an adjustable
neck strap that alters the neck loop size.
The loop is connected using an easy
operation plastic clip-in buckle. The same
is also used on the waist strap. No more
From apron strings to tie and no loose ends
£597.90 to catch on machines etc. These aprons
inc vat afford ample storage with a deep, robust,
high-mounted front pocket. The bib
features a horizontal pencil pocket to suit
left and right-handed users.
Axminster Trade Series scrollsaws Available in sizes:
Trade Series scrollsaws are serious machines for craft or joinery work. They come in S (small); M (medium); L (large)
small, mid-sized and large sizes with many features in common, some of which are unique
to this brand. They are mainly constructed from plate steel, including a 7mm heavy gauge Contact: www.toolpost.co.uk
steel table with an epoxy painted surface. The blade actuating arms are very short and
driven by a lever and rod mechanism. This gives high control of the blade and results in £17.50
exceptionally low vibration. inc VAT
The arm assembly can tilt 45° right and 35° left while the table stays horizontal,
allowing much better control of the work with greater visibility working in a natural
position. The variable speed control system ranges rom 400-1,500 strokes per minute.
Blade changing is easy and tool-free, with two hand clamps and a quick-release lever.
An air blower and work hold down are provided. Dust collection is efficient when
connected to a suitable fine dust extractor. The manufacturer recommends mounting the
machine permanently on a workbench or one of the dedicated stands which are optional
extras. They take unpinned blades allowing a large choice, or 150mm lengths of 6mm
bandsaw blade, ideal for cutting thicker materials. The machines are supplied with an
assortment pack of Swiss-made Pégas blades.

EX-16 £597.90/ EX-21 £645.67/ EX-30 £734.11

Prices include VAT and may be subject to change without notice.
Contact: www.axminster.co.uk

Dremel multi-purpose router bit set

Routing in wood, rubber, plastic, carbon fibre and more with this seven
£44.93 piece multi-purpose router bit set. You can perform a diverse range of
inc vat routing applications – edge, corner, straight, keyhole, word and letter
routing – in a variety of materials including but not limited to hardwood,
softwood, plywood and laminates. They have 3.2mm shanks to fit all of the
latest Dremel multi-tools with ease. Perfect to use with the Dremel router
table 231 attachment or the Dremel plunge router 335 attachment.
Conveniently stored in an included wooden box.

Box Contains:
2 x roundover cutters
1 x V-point
3 x straight cutters
1 x keyhole cutter

Contact: www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/

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 Community

BOOK REVIEWS
This month’s book selection definitely puts
the Editor in a making mood

Outdoor Woodworking
– 20 inspiring projects to
make from scratch
Edited by Alan Goodsell

Picking up this book is like meeting

an old acquaintance – familiar and
comfortable. It gathers together
collective works which form a really
useful tome of garden-based projects. In
here lies something for everyone. There
is always something else the garden lacks
and you are sure to find the very thing
in this comprehensive book. From a
planter to a wheelbarrow, a micro-shed
to seating, all are achievable with typical
workshop resources. Indeed, much
of my own construction work is done
outside my workshop in the garden,
the perfect place to be. Incidentally the ISBN:978-1-78494-247-2
feathered occupant of the delightful Price: £14.99
Gothic dovecote project is called Kevin. Published by GMC Publications Ltd

Getting Started with Handplanes – How to choose,

set up and use planes for fantastic results
By Scott Wynn

Picking up this volume reminds me how much of a tool junkie I really am. Names
such as Sargent, Stanley and Millers Fall instantly evoke images of cast iron and
finely honed steel. This is an American production but it is entirely consistent with
our knowledge and use of hand planes in the UK. Indeed, although some makes
of vintage plane are rare in the UK, others are very familiar, especially Stanley
and, much more recently, Veritas and Lie-Neilsen. The author takes us through
every stage from choosing planes to using them and everything in between. For
me metallurgy is fascinating and complex,ex, much more
so than wood, which is fairly predictablee in
its misbehaviour if you work with it
enough. What goes on inside a cast ISBN: 978-1-56523-885-5
iron plane body or plane iron is very Price: £12.99
much at a molecular level. Knowing Published by Fox Chapel Publishing
how to fettle them to create the a
winning combination that produces
nice, even shavings thinner than a Both books are available from:
sheet of paper is very useful knowledge e GMC Publications
indeed, which this book manages to www.thegmcgroup.com
w
successfully impart. 01273 488005
0

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 Technique

Restoring
picture frames
If you have a work of art in need of TLC, then
Amber Bailey has some well-framed answers

icture frames are a household Replacing an old finish This 19th-century

P decoration often used to

accentuate artwork and it is
easy to forget that they are objects in
After an extended length of time,
traditional wood finishes are prone
to flaking and discolouration. Those
frame was crudely
coated in gold paint
by a former owner
their own right. Frames are frequently without a background in woodwork
susceptible to knocks and scuffs as can be easily tempted to slap a new
people walk past them as well as the coat of finish or paint on the top to
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF AMBER BAILEY

occasional drastic upcycling project hide any damage, or may even do this
gone wrong. I have seen a number of to give the frame a change of style. A
frames come through my workshop, all build-up of layers is a sure way to lose
in different styles and stages of wood, detail and definition from a frame’s
paint and gilding. Despite each having form, particularly if it has intricate or
its own individual problems, I have low-relief carving. This can mean that
found that there are a few techniques there is a hidden build-up of layers
that prove fail-proof in restoring most using various unknown finishes. To get
frames to their former glory. down to the bare wood may require ➤

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 Technique

removal techniques to be repeated times. Intricate crevasses may require

several times. It is always advisable modelling tools and wire brushes if the
to start with the least intrusive and wooden spatula proves insufficient.
corrosive techniques, only upping the As a very last resort, abrasives and
strength when strictly necessary. scrapers may be necessary, but these
Always begin any surface treatment will remove more than just the existing
by giving the frame a wash to lift any finish and can change the actual
superficial dirt. The best technique shape of the frame. Reversibility is
for this is to use a selection of cotton implicit in restoration practice today,
buds and an old toothbrush, regularly so a technique as severe as this can
changing the water and finishing off sometimes be frowned upon.
with a clean wipe over once all grime
has been dislodged. It is important Replacing colour
not to allow the wood to get too and definition
waterlogged as the fibres will become The major disadvantage of having to
furry and the grain will rise. remove a finish rather than rework
it is losing the definition naturally
Removing stubborn finishes created by gradual dirt build-up. Rather
If delicate cleaning proves useless, bizarrely, grime can be desirable and
the best way to dislodge thick finishes add value to a piece – it is often more
is with paint stripper. The stripper is preferable for antiques to show
corrosive and will soften the finish so some age rather than look shiny and
that it can then be scraped off. brand new.
Working over the frame one section There is a fine balance when it comes A pearl and bone lacquer panel with a
at a time, apply paint stripper with a to cleaning and occasionally dirt will carved mahogany frame, coated in a very
brush and leave for several minutes to actually need to be artificially added dark varnish to give the impression of a
react. With a wooden spatula or tongue back in through the use of colour. far darker wood
depressor, scrape away a small section The secret to a natural appearance
of the stripper to see if the finish will is to ensure the grain is still visible. overall revival of colour, the frame can
lift. If unsuccessful, simply reapply For recreating notably dark areas, also be coated in a weak solution of
and leave a few minutes longer. As the diluted gouache paint can be applied Van Dyke paste. Van Dyke can be built
reaction begins to work, scrape away with a natural fibre brush. The most up in layers. To stop these running
the stripper and then neutralise the recommended colours to mix in this into one another and diminishing
frame with water. It is highly likely that circumstance would be yellow ochre, the colour, it can be advisable to seal
the process will need repeating several sepia and Van Dyke brown. For an layers with shellac.

Nitromors is a shop-bought paint stripper

that, although far weaker than once
allowed, s ll works effec vely

Given the age of the frame, it is highly likely that the fi nish was used to impersonate The frame a er ‘an quing’, to bring back
an expensive and luxurious wood such as ebony during a me when dark and heavy some of the defi ni on that is usually
furniture was all the rage a ributed to age

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 Technique

Reapplying a finish
With the ideal colour achieved, the Safety advice
frame can now be sealed with a 50:50 Gloves should be worn when working
ratio of shellac and isopropyl alcohol, with paint stripper as it will irritate
moving up to a 75:25 ratio being built and burn the skin. Should it come into
up in layers until you are happy with contact with skin, wash immediately
the depth. I chose transparent polish with water and, if necessary, seek
for my shellac to avoid the colour of medical advice.
the frame altering. If a deeper colour
is desired then special pale or even Tips
garnet polish might be preferable. If the frame has moved and a mitre is
For flat areas, apply the solution with left with a gap, this can be filled using a
a polishing mouse and use a mop to sliver of matching wood. Glue in place
cover any carving. Once the polish has oversized and, once dry, it can then be
been allowed to harden, the frame can carved and cut back to blend in with
be buffed up with microcrystalline wax the rest of the frame.
and a soft cotton cloth.

Right: A fresh coat of fi nish demonstrates

that a dark colour can be achieved
without sacrifi cing the character of
the carving

Conserva on
cleaning is a
delicate art and
When working with gilding it can
its equipment
be a good idea to use latex gloves,
o en involves
especially if you have the intention
household and
of re-gilding. The grease from your
beauty products
fingers can react negatively with the
gold leaf and any contamination may
call for the frame to be degreased with
methylated spirits.

Patching a gilt frame dust. As desirable as patina can be, if

As stunning as antique gilt frames it becomes too dark then the original
can be, the delicate mouldings don’t colour and detail of the frame is easily
always survive the plaster crumbling lost. Cleaning this dirt is an extremely
or the pins and glue failing. Although delicate job – too much pressure and
it is entirely possible to re-gild any the gold leaf will lift away so the safest
damage, sometimes you don’t have method is to carefully use cotton
the time or equipment; if you are buds and warm water. It is always a
working in situ you may even find good idea to bulk-buy cotton buds as
that the humidity is too damp for the you will get through hundreds. For In certain lucky circumstances, if broken
gold leaf to successfully adhere to the stubborn dirt, some restorers will segments are found they can be saved
gesso. If this is the case, a nifty trick is choose to add a few drops of ammonia and rea ached
to ‘tone’ the plaster instead. Toning is to the water. Ammonia is, of course,
a technique often used to age gold leaf a dangerous chemical that needs to for getting knocked into. If pieces have
with gouache paints. It is also possible be handled in a well-ventilated area, been collected and are still in a useable
to work directly on to the plaster to if the solution is made too strong then condition then it is possible to re-glue
create a faux gold finish. Gouache it can also do more damage than good these back into position. The existing
paint is water-based and can be easily to the gilding. patch on the frame will need to be
removed, making toning a useful cleaned of any residual adhesive and
temporary measure until the frame can Refitting broken sections dirt with warm water, then it is ready
be properly re-gilded. The plaster detail on antique gilt for a fresh coat of protein glue on
frames can be extremely fragile and both surfaces. Once slotted back into
Conservation cleaning highly likely to take a fair beating. This place and dry, any signs of the plaster
The intricate embellishments on gilt is especially common at the base of showing through the gilding can be
frames are an ideal trap for collecting frames where they are in better range covered up with paint. ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 57

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 Technique

Mould-making and replacing Whether you choose to reproduce

missing sections your mouldings in plaster or compo,
Symmetry is common practice in once hardened they can be either
the manufacture of gilt frames. This pinned or adhered in place with
means that if a segment breaks or goes protein glue.
missing, it is possible to take a mould
from another part of the frame to Toning
reproduce it. A popular replacement With your mouldings finally in situ and
material is composition, commonly prepared for toning, begin by covering
referred to as compo – a mixture the entire patch with yellow gouache
made up of hide glue, rosin, linseed paint. The initial coat may require the Details that have been pinned into place
oil and whiting. Compo is extremely gouache paint to be fairly thick to allow are highly suscep ble to snapping off,
durable but time-consuming to it to stick to the moulding. Subsequent leaving obvious bare sec ons
produce. Alternatively, the traditional layers may need to be thinned out for
method of plaster is an off-the-shelf better manipulation.
option that is simple and economical With an overall coverage in place,
but fragile. begin to work through a selection of
Mould-making is surprisingly yellows, browns and greens to emulate
simple – two-part impression putty is the dust and shadow that falls on
conventionally used in dentistry but similar mouldings around the rest of
is also available as an artist material. the frame. Pay close attention to filling
Following the kit directions to mix crevasses with darker colour and,
the base and catalyst, the putty will for a realistic appearance, avoid the
become firm but also durable enough temptation to go anywhere near black
to peel away from the frame without paint. Dental impression pu y is fl exible enough
damaging it or the mould. This means Once you are happy with the to wrap over and be safely removed from
it is suitable for applying directly to the colouring, seal the patch with a shellac segments that need to be recreated
moulding until it has set. solution. Remember that the polish will
You are then left with a mould that make the colour darker so it is advisable
can be used to duplicate the pattern to stick to a neutral shellac such as
an infinite number of times. transparent or super-fine white. ■

A new shell pinned into posi on

Equipment used
• Cotton buds/old toothbrushes
The colour star ng to be built up, star ng To help the paint s ck to the compo, • Paint stripper
with light yellows and gradually using it may need to be lightly diluted with • Wooden spatulas
shades of brown to replicate age shellac • Various gouache paints
• Van Dyke paste
• Natural fibre brushes
• Isopropyl alcohol
• Transparent shellac
• Polishing mouse and mop
• Microcrystalline wax
• Soft cotton cloth
• Two-part impression putty
• Plaster or composition
• Protein glue

Suppliers
Equipment and materials can be
found at your local DIY shop, two-part
impression putty is available at most
well-stocked art shops.

Replacement sec ons blending fairly effec vely, and can always be gilt at a later date

58 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Project

Safety
Naked flames are always a safety
hazard. Ensure you use safe containers
such these glass ones. Space them

Rustic votive & apart and not near anything flammable,

and do not leave unattended.

tealight holders You will need

• Wire brush
• 38mm & 50mm Forstner bit
• Tablesaw and/or bandsaw
Michael T Collins shines a light on the • Cut list/supplies
• Any scrap wood
millennia-old tradition of using candles • Candles

andles have been around for kinship, special time, nice) across the calming effect on the body and relaxing

C centuries – the earliest known

candles were first seen in
China around 200BC and appeared in
globe, and no longer principally used
for illumination. As a child in the ’70s,
I can recall the frequent power cuts
with candlelight can help reduce stress.
Plus, putting on a candle-light dinner
will always win extra brownie points.
Europe after 400AD. These first candles we experienced in the evenings, and In this article we rummage through the
were generally made of natural fat remember with fondness doing jigsaws scrap wood bin for pieces which will
and wax, with paraffin revolutionising by candlelight. make candle holders that can be used
candlemaking in the 1830s. These days There’s something about candles – as attractive table centrepieces or given
candles are a scented luxury found they create subtle lighting and bathe away as gifts. One year I made candle
on mantelpieces in ‘hygge’ homes your home with texture and colour. holders for friends out of offcuts from
(pronounced hue-guh, meaning cosy, Studies have shown that soft light has a wood they had given me. ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 59

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 Project

1 2

Making a holder
1 There are no hard and fast rules
when it comes to making candle
holders, but you will need to make
sure that the candle support is solid
and the construction is not top heavy,
for obvious reasons. Start by selecting
the wood and laying out the location
for each candle or votive to give the
most pleasing look.

2 I have used two types of candles:

standard tealights and long burn
votive candles. For the tealights, use
a 38mm Forstner bit and drill down 3 4
to the depth of the Forstner – this is
approximately 12mm and is a perfect
fit for the candle.

3 The glass votive holders will also

fit this size hole. However, the
design can be enhanced by using a
50mm Forstner bit. This will allow
the votives to hang below the holder.
I ran the router, with a small chamfer
bit, around the top edge of the holes.
Be aware that adding this chamfer will
cause the votive to drop slightly.

4 With the votive holders dropping

below the surface the holder
will need to be raised to allow the 5
glasses to hang just above the surface
on which the candle holder is placed.
Over the years I have used many
items, including old light pulls,
draw pulls, door knobs, and custom-
made legs. In this example I used the
pieces cut off when I tidied up the
ends of the holder.

5 Secure them to the underside of

the holder using long panel pins.

6 Experiment with different ideas

to give your ‘candelabra’ different
heights and character. I used an
angle grinder to give the ends an old
handsaw effect. A rasp would also have
achieved a similar result. 6

60 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Project

‘Instead of cursing the darkness,

light a candle’ ~ Benjamin Franklin

Old fence post

candle holders
7 My neighbour was removing an old
fence that had been standing for 50-
plus years and I grabbed a couple
of the fence posts.

8 Once all the crud was removed

and the two pieces cut to length…

9 … it was clear that the wood

was beautiful white oak – it
made two lovely, rustic tealight
candle holders. 7 8

9 The finish
By now you probably know that my votive glasses are used – the glass
Note: When working with old wood go-to finish is natural Danish oil. adds an extra barrier between the
This brings out the natural beauty flame and the wood. For the natural
that has had a utilitarian use outdoors
of the wood and if several coats are finished holders I very rarely apply
beware that it may be full of metal, so
applied (sanding lightly between) a any finish.
check thoroughly with a metal detector beautiful lustre can be achieved. And there you have it – beautiful
before running through a tablesaw or For safety’s sake I like to apply the creations that add light and
planer. Better still – just use hand tools. Danish oil on holders where the atmosphere to the soul. ■

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 61

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 Technique

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

GLUE
TECH
Part 1
Adhesives are
essential for
woodworking,
so it’s really
important to
stick to the
right ones…

62 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Technique

he use of adhesive, or glue as Superglue – a brand name). Indeed, we close fit. There are a few adhesives,

T we commonly term it, goes

back centuries. It has become
increasingly important in the past
even limit the sale of many adhesives
by age, because of the solvent content
in some modern versions.
such as urea formaldehyde glue or
polyurethane glue, which are designed
for gap filling, but most others need
several hundred years as it allowed that tight fit to bond properly. So the
more sophisticated fixing methods to Choosing the right adhesive first step is to ensure that, whether it
be used. Joint work no longer needed How do you decide on which is the is a nicely cut dovetail joint or a plain
to be big and clumpy because the best option? That’s a complicated butt joint with two flat surfaces pressed
construction materials changed from question as it very much depends on together, they do meet nicely.
timber hewn from trees to precision what you are trying to stick and why.
sawn sections and, later, manufactured If we are talking about construction Joint first
board material. The creation of the of any wood project, in a perfect If you are using ‘proper’ joints then
‘cabinetmaker’ as distinct from a situation, being true to our skill and good timber preparation – planing,
carpenter or joiner meant the use our woodworking heritage, joint checking components for squareness
of finer wood components, discreet construction would be more important and then accurate marking and cutting
fixings and the use of veneers and than the adhesive, which would simply with sharp tools – will help at the glue-
other covering materials such as hold good quality joint work together up stage. A dry fit is vital because you
fretted brass sheets, leather skivers rather than being effectively the joint will find out if anything is wrong before
and shagreen (sharkskin) to decorate itself. But we know that isn’t often the you add glue, when things can get very
and finish furniture. Nowadays we case, of course. stressful with a complicated assembly.
take adhesives to be the norm in So, if you opt for joints – whether
everyday life – anything from aerosol Tight fit mortise and tenon, bridle, finger joint
spray mount for artwork and photos Adhesives mainly work best when or whatever you choose – do try to get
to cyanoacrylate (otherwise known as the surfaces being glued are a good them right first.

ADHESIVE SELECTION
PVA to avoid early failure. PVA can suffer Aliphatic resin
Standard PVA wood adhesives are frost and cold damage and the average Aliphatic resin glue is a form of
very good on the whole. Avoid ‘craft’ workshop is cold in winter, so the modified PVA adhesive with a slight
PVA or one sold as a ‘sealer’ as well liquid adhesive should be stored in a yellowish colour. It is often favoured
as an adhesive. These are weaker warmer environment during the cooler for better-quality work. It has a fast
compounds and not suitable for months. It is an elastic adhesive and grab, or tack, which means it will
strength giving. Polyvinyl acrylate, to strength tests take this into account. naturally help to pull the meeting
give it its full name, is water-based so Generally it gives a solid bond but in surfaces together, although normal
is very safe to use and easy to clean exceptional circumstances it can move clamping or fixing methods still need
up. It is versatile and will fix wood under stress. It isn’t suitable for gluing to be used. It is less suitable in hot,
to wood as well as leather, card, etc. paper because the water content makes dry conditions because it doesn’t
There are limitations though. There the paper swell up and cockle, and it give much scope for making fine
are exterior versions but I wouldn’t may not go flat again afterwards. It is adjustments at the critical assembly
stake my life on them – they need a non-reversible glue so mistakes or phase. It comes in different grades,
some kind of protection, such as paint, faults cannot be undone. from interior work to exterior quality.
Both it and standard PVA can be used
to make ‘rubbed’ joints, where the
glued surfaces are rubbed back and
forth, creating a suction effect without
the use of clamps while allowing
surplus adhesive to exude. It is a non-
reversible adhesive.

Urea formaldehyde
Brands such as Cascamite or Extramite
are urea formaldehyde-based and
come in a tin in powder form. They
have been largely superseded by
more modern adhesives for a variety
of reasons. The powder needs to be
kept dry and it needs to be mixed in
a correct proportion with water to a
thick, creamy consistency. It can also
cause dermatitis and it has a limited
usage time before it starts to go
Biscuit jointing with PVA glue rubbery and then rock hard. It does ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 63

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 PHOTOGRAPH BY MARC FISH Technique

West System epoxy resin

gap fill but the question, unless it is a a blunt object such as a spoon can
repair job, is why are there gaps that be used to effect separation relatively
need filling? It can be used in exterior easily. It is, however, very useful CA glue and activator
work successfully but as the wood for minor close-fitting repairs. It is
weathers the bond with the glue will activated with water so dampening
break down eventually. It is suitable surfaces of wood, porcelain, etc. will PU (polyurethane)
for veneer press work. In the modern help speed up the process. Cheap This is similar to builders’ expanding
world, I don’t think it has many ‘pound shop’ CA glue is fine for foam filler. Instead of aerosol delivery
advantages to be honest. Another non- simple tasks, but you can buy superior through a long injection tube it is
reversible adhesive. versions in thicker compounds for spread via a standard nozzle in a
better gap filling. It finds uses in squeezable bottle or mastic gun tube.
Epoxy resin woodturning for stabilising minor Although its expansion rate is lower
Standard epoxy resins bought in a DIY cracks and urgent repairs in furniture. than that of the foam type, it still
store are fine for small repairs in mixed It is often used by kitchen fitters and expands and therefore need not be
media – wood/glass/steel/stone/etc. – the like for quick bonding of mitres overused to avoid too much excess.
depending on the type, but they aren’t in cornice in conjunction with a spray Surfaces must be firmly clamped,
intended for general woodworking aerosol used on one surface to speed screwed or nailed to keep them
assembly. There is one that stands out up setting. A non-reversible adhesive. together while curing. Not ideal as
and is used universally by professionals
requiring an exceptional resin adhesive
and that is West System. It is one
type of epoxy resin to which an array
of different hardeners, fillers and
compounds can be added to suit the
job. Since it can be used for various
specialist applications it is important
to seek advice before making a
purchasing decision. It is waterproof
and can be used as a barrier as well
as an adhesive when using the correct
additive. It is non-reversible.

CA (cyanoacrylate)
An incredibly useful adhesive which
has a reputation for creating medical
emergencies due to its fast, high-
strength adhesion properties. This
is largely unjustified unless very
sensitive, vulnerable areas of the body
are involved. In fact warm water and PU used for a gap filling repair

64 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Technique

PHOTOGRAPH BY AMBER BAILEY

Hide glue pearls absorbing water Hide glue – heated liquid state Colle de poisson (fish glue)

a general purpose wood glue, it is, instruments, cabinets, porcelain, glass, thorough removal before doing a
however, good for external work leather and, importantly for marquetry proper repair job.
exposed to damp or for bonding especially, bonding metal to wood as in
woodwork to walls, etc. It is activated ‘boulle’ work where there is no equal Spray adhesive
by water so it may help to dampen dry to its strength. Glued elements must be The type designed for mounting
surfaces first. Any spillage must be left held tightly while drying. It does not photos or artwork is good for
to set into hardened foam as it is then discolour wood, it dries slowly and is temporarily bonding paper templates
easy to remove with minimal marking reversible using a mixture of water and on wood. It is better to spray the
left behind. Non-reversible but some alcohol. A side note – Guinness uses paper and let it dry a little to avoid
joints can be separated. fish glue (isinglass) to filter and lighten leaving a deposit on the wood. The
its beers instead of adding yeast. heavier carpet-laying variety is useful
Hide glue for bonding thick material or for
The traditional cabinetmaker’s and Thixotropic adhesive sticking carpet on board as a safe, non-
restorer’s protein glue made from Better known as contact adhesive, scratching surface for restoration work.
animal parts such as skin, bones, it has limited use in woodworking. There are more specialised
tendons and other tissue. It is supplied It works well bonding sheets of adhesives, but this article covers the
in flake, or more usually pearl, form laminate but its rubbery nature is most common or important types. ■
and is heated with water in a special wrong for conventional woodworking.
glue pot which has a water jacket to Unfortunately, it sometimes turns up in Next time we look at using
prevent burning or denaturing. It is badly repaired chair joints and needs adhesives in practice.
smelly and sticky and, if left in damp
conditions, will start to rot. However,
it is very effective for antique repairs or
for laying veneers, although there is a
correct technique for the latter using a
veneer hammer to make the glue exude
and the veneer lie flat. It is reversible,
making it suitable for restoration work.
There is a cold version sold in a bottle
as a repair glue but it isn’t as strong as
the standard type.

Colle de poisson (fish glue)

A very specific variety of traditional
glue made in two types. One is from
various parts of a fish – skin, heads and
bones – and has various uses including
painting. The other sort is made from
the very rare sturgeon swim bladder.
This is a superior glue which will bond
a variety of materials, such as musical Spraymount adhesive used for sticking down abrasive sheet

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 65

WWC31_62-65_GLUE TECH SUBBED.indd 65 08/08/2017 10:09

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 Technique

It’s distressing when

you are merrily
planing or chopping
away at some existing
woodwork or reused
timber and the blade
snags on an embedded
screw or a nail
t is perfectly possible to repair a

I damaged edge by regrinding the

blade, but care is needed. If it is
really serious the first thing is to use
a dry grinder to remove the bulk of
the damaged metal. This is the critical
operation. You need to be able to rest
the blade at the correct angle, usually
25°, and move it from side to side if
it is wider than the grinding wheel
while keeping a straight edge on the
blade. Importantly, the blade must

#@*&!%?!
not overheat and lose its ‘temper’.
While holding it, the trick is to keep
your finger or thumb safely back from
the blade edge. As soon as it gets

happens!
uncomfortably hot, remove the blade
and quench it in water for several
seconds to arrest the heating effect.

Safety note
Using a grinder creates sparks
which usually die fairly quickly, but

Damaged blades take care not to work with anything

flammable around you. Wear safety
glasses and lower the clear guard over
the grinding wheel.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

1 You can see a colour change if it gets

too hot. This often happens at the
corners of a blade – it goes a light-straw
2 An alternative is to use an inverted
belt sander. If you are lucky enough
to own a wet grinder, overheating isn’t
3 Once you have a decent flat or
slightly hollow ground bevel you
can proceed with your standard
then dark-straw colour, followed by a problem but edge restoration is a sharpening routine and you are back
purple and finally a dull, greyish-blue slower process than a dry grinder. where you started before the damage
which you must avoid at all costs or the occurred. ■
metal will not behave well in use. If this
happens then proper heat treatment
becomes necessary.

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 67

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 Community

Woodland ways

THE GREAT STORM

30 YEARS ON
’Twas a dark and stormy night...The Great Storm
30 years on, as remembered by Gary Marshall
illions of people in southern like shocked, timorous animals, gazing If you want the full story read In the

M Britain, from the Channel

Islands to Norfolk, including
me, remember the small hours of 16
incredulously at the scale of damage to
trees and property. It had turned from
a pleasant leafy mid-October season
Wake of the Hurricane by Bob Ogley,
ISBN 0-9513019-1-8.
The storm was so devastating to trees
November 1987. The roaring winds into leaf-stripped winter overnight, and woodlands because certain factors
blew straight across our chimney stack even with many of the largely that rarely come together actually did
making a noise like a giant organ, while undamaged trees. on that occasion:
windows and doors rattled and the We had five large trees down in ● Trees were still mostly in full foliage;

roof made creakings and groanings, our garden, three had fallen across ● A very wet prior period had the effect

giving up its tiles to the air. We were the road. It was 11 days before our of loosening soil around roots;
very lucky – some people had lost their electricity supply was fully restored ● Much of south east England where

homes completely. and it took months, even years, for the storm tracked is the most heavily
The next morning local neighbours everyone affected to deal with the wooded part of Britain – particularly
came out in a state of utter disbelief, aftermath of the devastation. Kent, Sussex and Surrey;

68 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_68-69_WOODLAND WAYS SUBBED.indd 68 02/08/2017 14:33

 Community

Fallen woodbank
shortly a er the
storm ... and (right)
the same woodbank
The morning a er – woodland savaged by the Great Storm 28 years on

● Many woods were undermanaged problems for motorists, farmers,

or unmanaged with large hazardous growers and gardeners. Greater areas
trees or unthinned plantations prone of impenetrable scrub and fallen
to windblow; woodland give sanctuary to all manner
● The wind came from the south, of wild things large and small. New
blowing over the mainly east-to-west- vistas and viewpoints have been
running Wealden ridges, causing created.
massive turbulence and a ‘sucking’ It’s interesting to compare the effect
effect on trees at, or on the north side, where storm damage was cleared and
of the summits; replanted in woodland and forests
● Further high winds occurred after with areas just left for nature to
the initial storm, further weakening heal. In many cases nature has won
affected trees. out. Certainly there are many more
There are still many signs of the character trees in woods, distorted or
Great Storm about and this article regrown since that fateful night. Many Survivor truncated beech, Hargate Forest
is scattered with just a few that I’ve a seemingly intact timber tree from the
selected from my archive. It wasn’t Weald, when felled, will show shakes in
all doom and gloom though. Many its rings around the time of the storm.
damaged trees and woods have The storm also had a salutary effect
regenerated and woodpeckers have on authorities’ and even lay people’s
definitely increased given a surge in the attitude to tree safety. Electricity and
number of insects living in fallen and phone companies undertake rotational
split timber. pruning work to try to avoid the
Small herds of naturalised wild massive disruption of 1986 occurring
fallow deer have bred with prime again. ‘Once in 200 year storm’
fallow deer lost from deer parks. This scenarios are often built into woodland
happened when trees toppled, making management plans – accepting that,
gaps in boundaries – and we now see with climate change, the ‘every two No chances taken – tree surgery has
huge numbers of wild deer across centuries’ guesstimate may well be made safe a large oak at Emme s in one
the south east of England, creating over-optimistic. ■ of the hardest-hit areas

The bluebells don’t mind... The legacy of the Great Storm will be with us for many decades
yet – unro ed fallen oak with bone-hard heartwood

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 69

WWC31_68-69_WOODLAND WAYS SUBBED.indd 69 02/08/2017 14:33

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 Technique

The art of
peening a scyth
Mowing grass with a scythe makes 100% sense. It is quiet,
fossil fuel-free, and great exercise. Michelle Lainé explains
how to use and maintain a scythe properly

72 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Technique

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF PERMACULTURE MAGAZINE

‘The improvement
in mowing that
can be gained even
by a beginner peener
makes it worth
taking the time to
learn the art’

he values of the Austrian-style

T scythe have been widely

promoted in the permaculture
movement. Useful in the garden,
orchard, allotment or small-
holding, it is a pleasure to use and
environmentally friendly.
As well as the swish of a sharp blade
cutting through grass, the Austrian-
style scythe has brought the distinctive
ring of hammer on metal to the fields
and gardens – the sound of peening.
Here I’d like to introduce you to the
mysterious art and how it can improve
your mowing.

Keep it sharp
A scythe works by having a fine Peening kit: Top le : Table with hand peening machine
but sharp edge that slices through Bo om le : Peening bench with peening jig and hammer
vegetation with relatively little force. Right: Peening bench with peening anvil.
As it becomes more blunt, the work
of ‘slicing’ becomes harder. To use a scythe effectively, correct set-up and altered and it becomes less efficient
good mowing technique are important at cutting. The mower finds they are
– at least as important is learning having to sharpen more frequently,
to keep the blade sharp. The key to the blade is not holding its edge so
relaxed, easy mowing that is gentle on well and mowing is becoming harder
your body is a really sharp blade. work. It’s time to peen the blade.

The sharpening stone What is peening?

This is the aspect of sharpening that Peening is the art of cold hammering
people are most familiar with. A the edge of the blade to draw out and
sharpening stone is used to hone the thin the metal, restoring a thin edge
blade, restoring a thin cutting edge that can be effectively sharpened to
when it has been worn blunt through a long-lasting edge with a stone. It is
use. The effect is remarkable – a quick also used to tailor the blade edge to the
sharpen with a stone and suddenly task in hand (e.g. ultra-fine for lawns,
mowing is easier, the blade is cutting more robust for mowing weeds) and to
well and the quality of cut is improved. repair damage to the blade edge.
However, after repeated use of the
stone the effect starts to diminish. Hammering my blade?
Really?
What’s happened to It is true that peening is an aspect of
my blade? scything that can appear intimidating.
In the field, the sharpening stone The improvement in mowing that can
is used as frequently as every five be gained even by a beginner peener
Above: The effects of a sharpening minutes. After repeated honing, the makes it worth taking the time to learn
stone are remarkable but diminish with blade edge gradually becomes worn the art. The peening jig is the place to
repeated use. Peening restores the back into the thicker metal of the body start, a tool that has been designed to
effec veness of stone sharpening of the blade, the profile of the edge is make the task more accessible. ➤

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 73

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 Technique

What is a peening jig?

The peening jig consists of three parts
– a base and two ‘caps’. The blade
is placed between the first cap and
the base of the jig. The cap is struck
repeatedly with a hammer as the blade
is drawn through the jig, producing a
line of blows near the blade edge that
draws out and thins the metal. The
process is repeated with the second
cap, which is shaped so as to create
a line of peening closer to the blade
edge than the first.
The jig is relatively easy to use and
requires less accuracy than freehand
peening. It produces good results for
most circumstances and can produce
excellent results with practice.

What is freehand peening?

The most common method of
freehand peening in the UK uses a bar
peen anvil. The blade is placed on top
of the anvil and a flat hammer is used
to hammer a line a few millimetres
back from the blade edge, drawing
the metal forward and thinning it. The
process is repeated a number of times,
the exact number depending on the
profile of the edge required. Each time
the hammered line is placed closer to
the blade edge, with the final line
being on the blade edge.
It takes some practice to master
freehand peening. Using a jig before
beginning freehand will practice some With prac ce, peening can be used to repair the blade edge. Top: before repair,
of the skills needed and help with the bo om: a er repair, arrow points to where damage was
transition. Many people will find the jig
meets their needs, others will enjoy the blade and the work it is being asked peening and there are specialist
progression to freehand peening and to do. Mowing lawns and meadows peening workshops too. YouTube can
the results it can achieve. requires a fine, ultra-sharp edge and so be a useful resource, but beware – not
more frequent peening of the blade is all videos show good technique.
What kind of hammer do necessary (something like after every
I need? four hours of mowing). Michelle Lainé uses the scythe
With a peening jig, a standard Less frequent peening is required extensively on the 8ha (20 acre)
hammer about 500g in weight can when mowing rougher grass and weeds. smallholding of Dyfed Permaculture
be used. The condition of the face is A very fine edge is not required to Farm Trust, as well as running courses
unimportant as it does not come into mow efficiently in these circumstances on their use and a scythe shop. ■
contact with the blade edge. and would be more vulnerable to
Peening with an anvil requires a damage. When mowing very rough Resources
more specialised hammer. The face stuff, e.g. bracken or brambles, it is Lots more information on using a
of peening hammers must be kept possible to get away without peening scythe in a permaculture setting can
smooth and shiny as any dint or at all, but the work will be easier if be found at www.scythecymru.co.uk
defect in the face of the hammer you do.
will be imprinted in the blade being See www.scytheassociation.org/
peened. A peening hammer should be Want more help? courses for courses near you.
reserved for peening with an anvil only As peening is an unfamiliar skill to
and NEVER used with the jig or, worse most people, a course can be a really www.tiny.cc/peening is a good video
yet, to hammer in nails. good way to begin. Most introductory by Neil Dudman on jig peening.
scythe courses will cover basic jig
How often do I peen
my blade?
The frequency with which a blade Extract from Issue 84 of Permaculture magazine – www.permaculture.
needs to be peened depends on the co.uk. Print subscribers can also access 23 years of free digital editions.

74 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

Coming next month in

ISSUE 32
ON SALE
28 SEPT

Carve the
perfect stick
for dog lovers
■ Make a cutting board using
your router skills
■ Mark Palma uses plywood
offcuts to make bowls
■ From bed frames
to bench seats
■ Antique sofa back repair

PLUS: Woodworking glossary • Glue tech part

two • Reader group test – Rider chisels
Ask the experts • Plans for you – Gothic porch

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 75

WWC31_75_COMM_NEXT_ISSUE SUBBED.indd 75 09/08/2017 16:00

 Kit & Tools

THE ‘SWISS ARMY

What tools do you really need? Build your custom toolkit here

oodworkers are tool junkies – we collect new tools, old tools, grandpa’s old tools, tools

W we like for the sake of ownership, tools we never use…

But what do you really need? Let’s start again and pretend that, although we have the
knowledge to use tools and we have ideas of things to make, we don’t actually own any tools. By
doing this mental trick we can, in theory, start with a blank slate. Now, see how few tools you think
you could get away with and still be able to do some meaningful work. It’s a good mind-cleansing
exercise – we are no longer encumbered by toolboxes aplenty, tools on shelves or hanging from
racks gathering dust and cobwebs. I’ve used the example of a winebox as a starting point. It is
neatly made of jointed softwood, it has a drop-down, thin ply lid and a rope carrying handle. Small
yes, but I reckon you could, with cunning, get a cute but workable set of tools inside. Here’s my
list – see what you think.
At a push I reckon it will just fit. But the point I’m making is, if you work with just this basic
selection, whatever tool case or toolbox you put it in – tell me it isn’t doable. The truth is if you
have the skill and the motivation, you can still make worthwhile p j
projects with q
quite limited means.

Carpenter s pencils
Carpenter’s
ha
ave their place for
have
ge
eneral marking out of
general
THE KIT BASICS co
omponents
components
Marking
150mm steel workshop square
Double-edged marking knife
Expanding stainless steel rule
300mm stainless steel rule
Medium and fine grade carpenter’s It’s unthinkable
pencils not having an
Combined marking and mortise gauge expanding steel rule,
but beware possible
p
Sawing iinacc
inaccuracy att th
the
Tenon saw – traditional English type A dedicated marking sliding hoo
hook end
Pax beech-handled 10in 15tpi crosscut knife is essential for
Japanese flushcut trimming saw precise joint cutting,
finer than any pencil line
Planes
No.4 smoothing plane
Cabinetmaker’s small rebate plane

Chisels
10, 16, 25mm bevel-edged chisels

Drilling
Set of bradpoint drills with hex shank
‘Pencil driver’ powertool with hex A combined marking and
socket mortise gauge takes care of
marking ‘with the grain’
Hammer
16oz claw hammer with fibreglass
handle
Set of punches

Sharpening
Diamond plate
A Japanese flushcut saw is
Honing guide
A traditional tenon saw will incredibly useful for trimming off
cut much more precisely than a protruding dowels, wedges, etc.
modern hardpoint saw

76 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Kit & Tools

MY’ TOOLKIT A standard no.4

smoothing plane will
take most planing work
if used correctly

A cabinetmaker’s small
rebate plane will trim tenons
to fit or create rebates

Just three chisels will

do most tasks – you
don’t need a big set,
just keep them sharp
and ready for use

A set of hex bits

will fit straight
into a pencil
driver with a hex A combination
socket for quick scale and
changes engineer’s square
will give precise
marking out each
time
A standard, lighter-weight
claw hammer will deal with
anything from panel pins to
large nails

You need a set of

punches to bury
pins and nails and
avoid hammer
dents on wood

A 300/1000 mesh diamond plate

and a honing guide will take care A ‘pencil driver’, either straight or
of your sharpening angled, will perform basic tasks
such as driving and drilling

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 77

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 Community

ANTHONY BAILEY

Ask the experts Editor,

Woodworking
Crafts magazine

MARK BAKER
Group Editor,
Another selection of awkward questions GMC woodworking

for our experts to answer magazines

PLASTIC PROBLEM

‘ Maybe you can answer a query. I’ve

had a discussion with a friend who is
convinced that uPVC windows aren’t as
long-lasting as they are supposed to be
and can cause walls to crack. This
be worth the extra cost. The
plastic can become matt and
start marking with age but
you can buy special paint
to rejuvenate the plastic.
Regarding the cracking your
★
friend mentioned, I have asked a
QUE R
STA
STIO
N

professional builder for his opinion

doesn’t sound right, but as I need to
and he is vehemently against uPVC,
replace several windows in my house which surprised me, but he points
it would be good to have a definitive out that plastic units have very little
answer to this matter. movement or shrinkage so they tend to
Tom Gladden
’
Anthony replies: Your friend is at
create cracks in the walls around them.
On the other hand, if you opt for
timber joinery it needs to be made
to a high standard in good-quality
least partially right. UPVC is designed wood and with all seals, drip runs,
to cope with the elements – sun, rain, etc. in place. Properly maintained, i.e.
wind, frost, etc., which it does very regularly re-treated, such window units
well. However, like all materials you should last a long time. It is lack of
can think of, it does degrade over time. maintenance that kills woodwork. Best Repair to mortar and plasterwork where
The sealed glass units will eventually of all they can be fitted with modern cracks have occurred next to a uPVC
mist. There are more thermally double glazing for comfort and they window. Timber joinery causes less
efficient versions available which may look good too. disturbance to the surrounding structure

A BIT RUSTY

‘ I found an old no.4 smoothing plane in a box of tools when

we were clearing out my uncle’s shed. It’s a bit rusty and I think
it might be quite old, or it may just look that way. I don’t know
how to go about finding out. It’s a Stanley plane by the way and
marked Bailey? at the front.
Vicky Marchant
’
Anthony replies: If you have found one lying in a shed,
imagine how many more there must be around the globe.
It may be old but probably not very valuable, however the
family connection and the detective work discovering its
age and which pattern of plane do make it interesting. The A llate 19
19th-century
h N
No.4
41⁄2 smoothing
hi plane
l with
i h squat ffront
rust can be got rid of quicker than you might imagine – a knob and Sweetheart blade. Sympathetically restored by
good clean up and use of emery paper stuck to a board will cleaning alone, no abrasive treatment
soon improve it. There are certain features to look out for
which will tell you a bit more about it. The front knob and The best places to seek information are the following
rear handle, or ‘tote’, should match in appearance – a squat rather bizarrely named websites, which are very useful for
front knob is late Victorian and a tall, narrower one early identification and dating.
20th century. Very thin wall castings are often Victorian. www.supertool.com – the home of Patrick’s Blood and
A ‘sweetheart’ marked blade is old and decent quality, Gore plane identification
although a bit thin compared to some modern blades. If it www.hyperkitten.com – a section on Stanley bench
says on the blade ‘tungsten vanadium’ then it is post WWII. plane dating
The Bailey name is in deference to Leonard Bailey who There are others but these are the most useful. Bear in
developed the basic design in the mid-19th century, and mind that Stanley US is not the same as Stanley UK unless it
which is copied by most modern planes. is imported stock – it can get confusing.

78 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Community

SEEING IS BELIEVING?

‘ I’ve noticed in the magazine you

always seem to ‘push’ using diamond
plates for sharpening – why is that? I
watch a lot of YouTube clips and the
experts are generally using waterstones
and getting really nice shavings when
they are planing. What’s the problem
with using them or is it that ‘diamonds Waterstones are good to work with
are the editor’s best friend’?
Gerry Newall

Anthony replies: Thank you for

your amusing suggestion regarding
’ but need maintenance to keep them in
condition so they can give the best results

which one to pick. Diamonds are a

much simpler deal altogether. The best
diamonds… I’ve used waterstones and combination is a good quality dual- Two diamond plates. The solid metal
they are great, but there is a whole sided 300/1000 mesh plate for both one on the right is more expensive but
methodology to using them. They preparing a poor edge and honing. better quality
need to be kept in water prior to use, Lapping fluid works best of all as
they lose their flatness so you need a a lubricant, being non-rusting and can finish the job by making up an
special coarse dressing stone to level keeping the plate in good condition. end grain MDF block and use metal
them and a very small special stone to When new, a diamond plate gives a polishing paste to strop the edge and
prepare them ready for sharpening. rather coarse edge but as it wears in lose any wire burr. I’ve used diamond
Then there are all the wide choices the result is much better and it will plates for years and I wouldn’t go back
of grit grade and the confusion about last you a lifetime. After honing you to my old ways.

RINGING SENSATION

‘ I have a bow-fronted chest of drawers, which I’ve been told

might be Georgian. It has some whitish ring marks and a dark
ring mark and several other odd markings on the top. Should
I get a restorer to deal with them or is it something I could do?
I’m nervous because it is so old and I suppose it has what’s
called a patina?
Belle Harmer
’
Anthony replies: You can certainly ask a restorer to work on
it but I would ask a couple of questions, which you ought to
consider. Is the surface finish intact, e.g. the French polish?
Does it have a sheen or shine over the entire top? If it does The dark ring marks to the right cannot be removed without
and it has a patina and what we might refer to as ‘chatoyance’, damaging the surface and are best left as part of the patina and
or reflectance, it may be better to leave well alone. The pale history of this antique
ring marks could be dealt with by using French polish reviver
– a professional restorer can advise you. The dark mark or The best advice is to just go over it with a non-silicone
marks almost certainly cannot be removed even by stripping furniture wax, buff it off and leave it. Enjoy the history of
and bleaching the top, which is a complete no-no, it could the piece and imagine who might have loved it and used it
damage the appearance and value. enough to cause the markings.

★
The Tool Marketing Company, or TOMACO, as it is
T winner will receive a Narex six-piece chisel set worth
STAR known, sells a variety of tool brands, including COLT,
k £79.95 and all other published questions will receive a
E S T IO N Sharp Edge and Narex Tools, and is pleased to be
S 20mm half-round fine cut Narex
QU
P R IZ E ssponsoring the Ask the Experts section in collaboration rasp worth £20.95. For more
with GMC Publications. Each issue’s Star Question
w information see www.tomaco.co.uk

N.B. If you do need help or advice you can email me: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com or visit:
www.woodworkersinstitute.com where there are lots of useful articles, either way the service is free
By submitting your questions and photos, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the future.
In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 79

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 Community

Trees for life

In the latest of our timber series we look at
a tree that is a survivor thanks to its flying
seeds or ‘keys’ – the sycamore
Did
you know?
The botanical name
Pseudoplatanus refers to
the superficial similarity of
he sycamore is as well known as any other British landscape tree the leaves and bark of the

T and it is hard to avoid the effect of it when its wind-dispersed

keys block gutters or put down roots in your garden before
you know it. It is, of course, better than that. We wouldn’t want to
sycamore to those of plane
trees in the genus Platanus,
the prefix ‘pseudo’ from the
Ancient Greek meaning
be without it unless it is standing right next door and its timber is
beautiful, the very best being sought after by cabinetmakers for fine- ‘false’.
quality furniture. As with all tree species it isn’t alone as there are
variants, but we will concentrate on Acer pseudoplatanus.

History
It was certainly known by the 15th
century in the British Isles where it
has naturalised, also in other parts of
Europe, North America, New Zealand
and Australia. The lack of ‘old names’
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

for the sycamore has been used to

suggest it did not exist prior to this but
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

this is challenged by an old Scottish

Gaelic name which suggests it was
present as far back as the 6th or 7th
centuries and therefore possibly
existed without human intervention.
This is still subject to scientific debate.

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 Community

Sycamore

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

Although known as sycamore in the UK
it is called the sycamore maple in the
United States. It is a flowering tree which
belongs to the soapberry and lychee
family Sapindaceae. It is a large deciduous
broadleaf tree which is tolerant of wind
and coastal erosion. It can grow to about
35m high with branches forming a rounded
crown. The bark is smooth and grey in
young trees but later will flake in
irregular patches.
The leaves grow on long leafstalks and
are large and palmate (like the palm of the
hand) with five radiating lobes. When the
leaves are shed they leave horseshoe-shaped
marks called leaf scars on the stem. The winged seed ‘keys’
The buds are produced in opposite pairs

PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

and are approximately oval in shape and
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

pointed. The scales that enclose and protect

the bud are green, edged in dark brown and
with dark brown tips.
The dangling flowers are greenish yellow
and produce plenty of pollen and nectar
which attract insects. The winged seeds,
called samaras are produced in pairs and
rotate as they fly down to the ground where
they free-germinate in the spring. Sycamore
vigorously self-seeds and has various
strategies to avoid self-pollination which
could damage its genetic variation. Sycamore bud Sycamore bark

PHOTOGRAPH BY SUE HARKER

Typical uses
The sycamore produces a hard-wearing, creamy white,
close-grained timber often used for making musical
instruments, furniture, joinery, wood flooring and kitchenn
utensils such as spoons, rolling pins and bowls. It also
makes good firewood as it is easy to split and burns with
ct
a hot flame. The rising spring sap has been used to extract
sugar and make alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, hence e
the American name sycamore maple because it behaves A sycamore
like the maple in that regard. ➤ scoop

Fascinating
fact
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

In Scotland sycamore
was favoured for
hangings as its
Sycamore and branches very rarely
ebony desk by broke under the
Gordon Fry strain.

Woodworking Crafts issue 31 81

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 Community

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

Timber conversion

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

Sycamore is very suitable for timber conversion
but, almost uniquely, once in plank form it must
be carefully ‘end reared’ because when laid
conventionally ‘in stick’ staining occurs where the
green boards lie on the sticks. This is made worse
because the wood is such a pale colour that it shows
up marks easily. There is little movement in service.

Working characteristics
It steam bends and works well with hand tools and
machines. Ripple or curly stock is often used for finer-
quality work but reduced angle blades are advised to
avoid the grain ‘plucking’. It stains and glues well and
as a veneer is often turned into ‘harewood’ which is
veneer dyed for decorative effect. It is non-durable
and vulnerable to o woodboring insect attack.
Sycamore and
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

pear candle box

by Allen Barret

The Martyrs’ Tree

Environmentt
It is often planted in urban areas due to its tolerance of Symbolism
environmental pollution. However, it readily invades Sycamore is the inspiration for the trade union
disturbed habitats such as forests, abandoned farms, old movement started at Tolpuddle in Dorset, where
railway lines and brownfield areas. It is tolerant of a wide six agricultural workers became known as the
range of soils except for heavy clay. Tolpuddle Martyrs after forming their union under
what is now known as the Martyrs’ Tree. They were
Diseases found to have breached the Incitement of Mutiny
Sooty bark disease caused by a fungus results in wilting of Act of 1797 and were transported to Australia, but
the crown, death of branches and bark detaching exposing after public outcry were returned to the UK. This
fungal spores which are hyper-allergenic causing maple tree has a girth of 5.9m and has been dated to 1680.
bark stripper’s disease, a hypersensitivity pneumonitis. It is cared for by the National Trust.
Tar Spot is caused by another fungus that causes leaves to
fall but the tree remains in good vigour. The Money Tree
Sycamore leaf spot is caused by a third kind of fungus A monastery at Clonenagh, Ireland founded by St
which causes leaves to curl up and dry, but the tree is Fintan in the 6th century had a spring nearby which
otherwise largely unaffected. was considered a pilgrim holy site. In the 19th
century a Protestant landowner, annoyed at people
visiting the site, filled in the well and the water
started to flow into the hollow of a sycamore tree
the other side of the road. People were amazed and
hung rags on the tree and pressed coins into the
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

trunk as votive offerings. It became known as the

Money Tree. It remains a place of veneration on St
Fintan’s day, 17 February.

Make your own discoveries

Visit: www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/tree-identification/
sycamore/
Sycamore leaf spot
For additional information and photos

82 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

WWC31_80_82_Trees For Life_Sycamore SUBBED.indd 82 02/08/2017 14:48

 Saw blades Hole saws Jig saw blades

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& knives & sets
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JS

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PLANS & PROJECTS




When you need a
TRICKERY

  

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PETER BENSON DAVID SPRINGET T

MARK BAKER

Write to: …choose a member of The Guild of Master Craftsmen.

Emma Foster, Publishing Coordinator, For a tradesman you can trust – and a job done well.
The Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd,
86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, UK, BN7 1XN
Telephone: +44 (0) 1273 477374
Email: emmaf@thegmcgroup.com The only place to list members of The Guild of Master Craftsmen exclusively
Website: www.thegmcgroup.com @GMCbooks

TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL RUSSELL: 01273 402841 Woodworking Crafts issue 31 87

WWC_Classifieds.indd 87 8/9/17 10:58 AM

 Community

Focus on…
Top : One of the Tōdai-Ji

Tōdai-Ji – the Eastern statues

Above: The Tōdai-Shoro
building houses the bell

Great Temple
ocated in the city of Nara, Buddha Vairocana who is seen as the dancers celebrated completion of the

L Japan, is this Buddhist temple,

once one of the seven Great
Temples. Its Great Buddha Hall houses
embodiment of the Buddhist concept
of emptiness.
Along with seven other temples,
Buddha. The work nearly bankrupted
the Japanese economy.
Materials used included all the
the world’s largest bronze statue of the shrines and places of worship, this is bronze that was available, the gold was
a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site. imported and there were 48 lacquered
The temple is vast and sits in perfectly cinnabar pillars, each 30m long and
maintained grounds where deer – 1.5m in cross section, which support
which are regarded as messengers of the roof of the Daibutsu-den.
the gods – are free to roam. As a result of previous fire damage
Early temple building began in the current hall was completed in 1709
728AD, but in early years there was at a massive 50m long and 50m wide,
a succession of natural disasters and actually smaller than its predecessor.
uprisings. In following eras Buddhism Originally there were two 100m
was heavily regulated and latterly pagodas which were destroyed by
Tōdai-Ji has no longer enjoyed its earthquake and Nandaimon (meaning
former authority, thus no Buddhist Great South Gate) was constructed in
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

ordination ceremonies take place the 12th century after the original was
there now. blown down by a typhoon.
In 743AD Emperor Shōmu issued a A great deal of conservation work has
law that people should build temples been carried out on statues and the
throughout Japan. Records show that various buildings and now the Tōdai-Ji
2.6 million people were involved in the Culture Centre is open to the public
construction of the Great Buddha and and includes a museum, library and
its hall with 350,000 of those working research centre and auditorium.
on the statue. To find out more about this amazing
After many fires and earthquakes the complex of buildings and to arrange
temple was completed in 751AD and a visit, see: www.japan-guide.com/e/
The Great Buddha a year later 10,000 monks and 4,000 e4100.html ■

88 www.woodworkersinstitute.com

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 Keep a clean sheet.
Festool dust extractors. For healthier work. For better results.

You´ll never work alone.

A clean job is more than a perfect result. The Festool mobile dust
extractors work discreetly in the background, but are immediately Tools for the toughest demands

on site when they are needed. Sawing, sanding, routing. Perfectly

matched to the tools, they extract the dust where it is generated.
They thus guarantee not only health-friendly work, but also save
you time and effort on time-consuming cleaning.
For more information please visit www.festool.co.uk/dustfree or
your retailer.

www.festool.co.uk

IBC_WWC_031.indd 1 8/4/17 3:57 PM

OBC_WWC_031.indd 1 8/2/17 4:52 PM