Trouser
An outer garment for covering the body from the waist to the ankles,
divided into sections to fit each leg separately. Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower
part of the body and cover both legs separately. For centuries, trousers have remained the standard
lower-body clothing item for males; but, by the late 20th century, trousers had become a popular
clothing item for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist; they are held up by their
own fastenings, suspenders/braces or a belt.
The word trouser is mainly used in British English; in American English, the term pant is used to
refer to trousers. In America, trousers may specifically refer to a tailored garment consisting of a
waistband, belt loops, and fly front.
Difference between Trousers and Pants
Both Trousers and Pants refer to the same garment; they both refer to an outer garment covering
the body from waist to ankles, with a separate part for each leg. The difference between them lies
in usage. The main difference between trousers and pants is that the word trouser is commonly
used in the UK whereas the word pants is commonly used in America. It is also important to note
that in the UK, pants refer to undergarments.
British
Trousers is an outer garment covering the body from the waist to the ankles, with a separate part
for each leg whereas pants is a term for underwear or knickers
American
Trouser is a tailored garment with a waistband, buttoned loopholes and a fly front but pants is an
outer garment covering the body from the waist to the ankles, with a separate part for each leg
Inner vs Outer Garments
In the UK, pants are worn under the trousers.
Classification
Tapered
Straight
Flared
Baggy
Pleated
Turn-Ups
Jeans Style
Burmuda shorts
Shorts
Salvar
Ski-Pants
Army Fatigs
Slim jims etc
Perspective Drawing
Style Introduction
Specialty of Trouser
Casual wear of unisex
It can be made of leather such as pig nappa, sheep nappa, goat nappa, goat suede, cow
nuback etc.
Waist band can be elasticated or normal
Opening system may be zip open, snap button, sew-on-button etc
Lining is used in inner part
Standard Body Measurement
Relative Girth Measures in Men
Neck = one-third chest + 6.25 to 7.5 cm (2/2 to 3")
Waist = chest less 10 to 12.5 cm (4 to 5")
Seat = chest + 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2")
Small round = about one-third seat
Knee round = small round + 2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1 ½")
Calf round = small round + 2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1 ½")
Shoulder (half) = one-fourth chest or less 1.5 cm (½")
Bottom round = calf round less 2.5 cm (1"), i.e. same as small
Scye round = half chest less 0.75 to 1.25 cm (1/4" to ½")
Across chest = one-fourth chest less 2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1 ½")
Half back = one-sixth chest + 4 cm (1 ½")
Depth of scye (from neck):
For chest up to 72 cm (28") = one-fourth chest + 1.25 cm (½")
For chest from 72 to 92 cm (28 to 36") = one-fourth chest
For chest 92 cm (36") and above = one-sixth chest + 7.5 cm (3")
Relative Girth Measures in Women
Neck = one-third bust + 5 to 6.5 cm (2 to 2 ½").
Waist = bust less 12.5 to 18 cm (5 to 7").
Seat = bust + nearly 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4").
Across chest = one-eighth bust + 5.75 cm (2 ¼").
Halfback = one-sixth bust + 2.5 cm (1").
Shoulder (half) = one-sixth bust + 4 to 5 cm (1 ½ to 2").
Round upper arm = one-fourth bust + 5 to 6.5 cm (2 to 2 ½").
Depth of scye = one-eighth bust + 5 to 6.5 cm (2 to 2 ½").
Necessary Measurement to draft Trouser Block
Seat
Body Rise
Inside leg
Outside leg
Thigh
Crotch depth.
Crotch length
Waist(4cm below from NWL)
Bottom width
Construction of a trouser Block
How to construct a trouser Block
Developing the pattern for complete trouser
Complete Set of Pattern
Front part
1. Front Top:
Length 54 cm, Width 31 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Good quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides
Notches at the bottom and side.
2. Front Bottom:
Length 43 cm, Width 23 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Good quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in three(3) sides
3 cm hem allowance at bottom portion(for folding)
Notches at the top and side.
3. Front Pocket Facing:
Length 18 cm, Width 12 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Less quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides.
4. Front Pocket With Extension:
Length 18 cm, Width 12 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Comparative less quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides.
Notches at the top and side
Back part
1. Back Yoke:
Length 18 cm, Width 12 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Less quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides.
2. Back Top:
Length 54 cm, Width 31 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Good quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides.
3 cm hem allowance at bottom portion(for folding)
Notches at the all side.
3. Back Bottom:
Length 42 cm, Width 27 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Good quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in three sides.
3 cm hem allowance at bottom portion(for folding)
Notches at the top and side.
4. Back Patch Pocket :
Length 19 cm, Width 17 cm
Cut x 2 (Opposite direction)
Good quality leather
1 cm seam allowance in all sides.
2 cm folding allowance at the top.
Lining
Assembling Sequence of Trouser
Back preparation
Yoke joining with back
Patch pocket preparation & joining with back
Back top & back bottom joining
Centre back and centre back joining at the crotch.
Front preparation
1. Front crotch pocket preparation:
Front pocket facing joining with lining
Front pocket facing joining with lining
Front pocket extension joining with lining
Inside pocket preparation and join it with front
Front top and front bottom joining
Front two sides joining at the crotch
Front preparation for zip attaching
Zip attaching and fly preparation at the front
Fly facing preparation
Zip guard preparation
One side zip join with zip guard
Joining of fly facing & Zip guard with front
Fly stitching at the top side
Lining preparation and joining
Two front lining joining at the crotch
Two back lining joining at the crotch
Front lining joining with front
Front and back lining joining at the side.
Lining joining at the waist
Lining bottom preparation
Front and back joining at the side
Front and back joining at the inside leg
Bottom preparation
Waist band and belt hook preparation and joining with waist
Trouble shooting
Fitting Problem
As garments sizing are related with different measurements from human body anatomy and here
are number of variables, as all men don’t have the same measurement and size, so tailoring and
alteration is compulsory to snug fit.
So forth the fitting problems associated with manufacturing of trousers are categorized as:
• Hip shape
• Long back
• Short back
• Large abdomen (Stomach/tummy )
• Large seat
• Leg stance (stand posture)
Hip shape
As hip size vary and based on the measurement side seam line has to be adjusted.
Long back
Trousers waist band dips at back and there may be strain lines across the back. Mark points A and
B on seat line. Cut along line, open wedge at A, the amount the back requires to be raised. Trace
round new outline
Short back
The trouser sag (hang down) at the back creating folds. Mark point A on the waist line. A-B is the
amount required to be taken out. Join B-C on side seam.
Large abdomen
The trouser dip at the front and strain line appears across trouser. Draw a line 15 cm down from
crutch line. Mark A and B on the grain line. Cut down the grain line from A-B. Open a wedge at
A and raise front waist line the amount required. Trace round new outline.
Required amount:
15 cm down from crutch line
Large seat:
The trouser pull across seat line and create strain lines at fork. The trouser require more width
across seat and more length on the fork line. Measure through the crotch from base of waist band
line. Measure fitting line of fork of the trouser. Calculate the amount the fork must be increased.
Mark A and B on the seat line, cut along the line to open a wedge at A. Fill in seat line approx. 1.5
cm. Extend crutch line at C. Measure new fitting line to check correct amount has been inserted.
B-D is 1 cm. Join C and D to Knee line.
Leg Stance:
a) Open leg stance
b) Close leg stance
If a man stand with an open- leg stance or closed –leg stance that will affect the hang of the trouser.
a) Open leg stance: Mark A and B on hem line of trouser. A-C is approx 1.5 cm. B-D is approx
1.5cm. Join C to crotch line, D to seat line. The grain line is moved out 1.5 cm. repeat adaption
on underside.
b) Closed leg stance: The adaption is same as for open-leg stance but in this case the leg is moved
inwards. E.g. A-E is 1.5 cm and B-F is 1.5 cm.
