GT 200
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Jordi BrasoGT 200
Uploaded by
Jordi BrasoDownloaded from www.Manualslib.
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Index
1 Vespa GT 200 16
2 Characteristics 17
2.1 Various 17
2.1.1 Workshop Safety 17
2.1.2 Service Recommendations 17
2.2 Vehicle Identification 18
2.2.1 Frame No. 18
2.2.2 Engine No. 18
2.3 Technical Specifications 19
2.3.1 Weight and Dimensions 19
2.4 Engine 20
2.4.1 General 20
2.4.2 Walbro carburetor 21
2.4.3 Kehin carburetor 22
2.5 Transmission 23
2.6 Capacities 23
2.7 Electrical Components 23
2.8 Frame, Suspensions, Brakes and Tires 24
2.8.1 Frame and Suspension 24
2.8.2 Brakes 24
2.8.3 Wheels and Tires 24
3 Tightening Torques 25
3.1 Steering Unit 25
3.2 Frame 25
3.3 Front Suspension 25
3.4 Front Brake 26
3.5 Rear Suspension 26
3.6 Rear Brake 27
3.7 Silencer 27
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3.8 Hydraulic Components 27
3.9 Cylinder Head 28
3.10 Transmission 29
3.11 Flywheel 29
3.12 Engine Crankcase and Shaft 29
3.13 Cooling 30
4 Assembly Clearances 31
4.1 Piston–Cylinder Mating 31
4.2 O Rings 32
4.3 Compression Ratio Limiting Shimming System: (11-12:1) 33
4.4 Crankshaft End-Play 34
4.5 Crankshaft Alignment 35
5 Recommended Lubricants 36
6 Special Tools 37
6.1 Steering Bearing Seat Installer – 001330Y 37
6.2 Pliers – 001467Y014 37
6.3 Bell – 001467Y017 37
6.4 Steering Column Ball-Cage Bearing Removing Punch – 020004Y 37
6.5 Front Suspension Overhaul Tool – 020021Y 38
6.6 Punch – 020036Y 38
6.7 Punch - 020038Y 38
6.8 Ring Nut Spanner - 020055Y 38
6.9 Crankshaft Aligner - 020074Y 39
6.10 Heat Gun Support - 020150Y 39
6.11 Heat Gun - 020151Y 39
6.12 Oil Pressure Gauge - 020193Y 39
6.13 Crankcase Detacher - 020262Y 40
6.14 Half-Pulley Assembler - 020263Y 40
6.15 Fitting Punch - 020306Y 40
6.16 Vacuum Pump - 020329Y 40
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6.17 Timing Light - 020330Y 41
6.18 Digital Multimeter - 020331Y 41
6.19 Digital Tachometer - 020332Y 41
6.20 Single Battery Charger - 020333Y 42
6.21 Multiple Battery Charger - 020334Y 42
6.22 Dial Gauge - 020335Y 42
6.23 Adapter (42×47 mm) - 020359Y 43
6.24 Adapter (52×55 mm) - 020360Y 43
6.25 Guide (20 mm) - 020363Y 43
6.26 Guide (25mm) - 020364Y 43
6.27 Guide (22 mm) - 020365Y 44
6.28 Adapter (28×30 mm) - 020375Y 44
6.29 Handle - 020376Y 44
6.30 Valve Half-Cone Remover - 020382Y 44
6.31 Bushing - 020382Y011 44
6.32 Piston Assembly Band - 020393Y 45
6.33 Multimeter Adapter - 020409Y 45
6.34 Guide (15 mm) - 020412Y 46
6.35 Clutch Drum Lock Wrench - 020423Y46
6.36 Punch - 020424Y 46
6.37 Punch - 020425Y 46
6.38 Piston Fitting Fork - 020426Y 47
6.39 Piston Support - 020428Y 47
6.40 Valve O-Ring Remover - 020431Y 47
6.41 Oil Pressure Gauge - 020434Y 47
6.42 Guide (17 mm) - 020439Y 48
6.43 Water Pump Overhaul Tool - 020440Y 48
6.44 Adapter (26×28 mm) - 020441Y 48
6.45 Stop Wrench - 020442Y 48
6.46 Driven Pulley Spring Tool - 020444Y49
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6.47 Guide (30 mm) - 020483Y 49
6.48 Pivot Retainers Installer - 020488Y49
6.49 Hub Cover support - 020489Y 49
6.50 Flywheel Wrench - 020565Y 50
6.51 Engine Support - 002095Y 50
6.52 Pliers - 002465Y 50
6.53 Punch - 06029Y 50
6.54 Flywheel Extractor - 08564Y 51
6.55 Gas Analyzer - 494929 51
7 Maintenance 52
7.1 Maintenance Schedule 52
7.2 Carburetor 54
7.3 Checking and Replacing the Spark Plug 55
7.4 Air Filter 56
7.5 Engine Oil 58
7.5.1 Checking the Engine Oil Level 58
7.5.2 Topping-Up the Engine Oil 59
7.5.3 Replacing the Oil and Oil Filter 59
7.6 Hub Oil 61
7.6.1 Checking the Hub Oil Level 61
7.6.2 Replacing the Hub Oil 61
7.7 Topping-Up the Engine Cooling Liquid 62
7.8 Brake Fluid 63
7.8.1 Checking the Brake Fluid Level 63
7.8.2 Topping-Up the Brake Fluid Level 64
7.9 Removing the Steering Lock 65
7.9.1 Removing the Steering Lock when on «OFF» Position 65
7.9.2 Removing the Steering Lock when on «LOCK» Position66
7.10 Headlight Adjustment 67
7.11 Checking the Spark Advance 68
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7.12 Spark Advance Variation Curve 69
7.13 Evaporative emission system 70
Checking the CO Concentration 71
7.14 SAS (Secondary Air System) 73
7.14.1 General 73
7.14.2 Description 73
7.14.3 Removing the SAS 74
8 Troubleshooting 77
8.1 Engine 77
8.1.1 Poor Performance 77
8.1.2 Rear Wheel Spins at Idle 78
8.1.3 Rich Mixture 78
8.1.4 Weak Mixture 79
8.1.5 Low Compression 79
8.1.6 Starting Problems 80
8.1.7 Excessive Oil Consumption/Excessive Smoke from Exhaust 81
8.1.8 Insufficient Lubrication Pressure 81
8.1.9 Engine Tends to Cut Out at Full Throttle 82
8.1.10 Engine Tends to Stop at Idle 82
8.1.11 Excessive Fuel Consumption 83
8.2 Transmission and Brakes 83
8.2.1 Irregular Clutch Operation or Grapping 83
8.2.2 Poor Braking Performance 84
8.2.3 Brakes Overheating 84
8.3 Electrical System 85
8.3.1 Battery 85
8.3.2 Turn Signal Lights Not Working 85
8.4 Steering Controls and Suspension 85
8.4.1 Excessive Steering Stiffness 85
8.4.2 Excessive Steering Play 85
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8.4.3 Noisy Suspension 86
8.4.4 Suspension Oil Leaking 86
Electrical System 87
9.1 Electrical Diagrams 89
9.1.1 Ignition Section 89
9.1.2 Turn Signal Lights, Horn, Services and Accessory Pre-Wiring 90
9.1.3 Level Indicators and Safety Switches92
9.1.4 Battery Recharge and Starting Section 93
9.1.5 Headlight and Automatic Choke Section 94
9.2 Electrical Equipment 95
9.2.1 Electronic Ignition (Immobilizer System) 95
9.2.2 Un-Coded Electronic Ignition System97
9.2.3 Diagnostic Codes 98
9.2.4 2-Flash Diagnostic Code 98
9.2.5 3-Flash Diagnostic Code 99
9.2.6 Ignition System 99
9.2.7 Spark Plug Power Supply Failure 100
9.2.8 Battery Charging System 101
9.2.9 Checking the Voltage Regulator 102
9.2.10 Stator check 102
9.2.11 Checking the Regulator 103
9.2.12 Checking the Automatic Choke Section 103
9.2.13 Turn Signal Lights Fail to Operate 104
9.2.14 Fuses 105
9.2.15 Instrument Panel 106
9.2.16 Battery 107
9.2.16.1 Preparing the Battery 107
9.2.16.2 Checking the Electrolyte Level 107
9.2.16.3 Checking the Electrolyte Density 107
9.2.16.4 Checking the Battery Charge Level108
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9.2.16.5 Cleaning the Battery 108
9.2.16.6 Installing the Battery 108
10 Engine 111
10.1 Disassembling the Engine from the Frame 111
10.2 Removing the Silencer 116
10.3 Refitting the Engine onto the Frame 116
10.4 Removing the Rocker Cover 117
10.5 Refitting the Rocker Cover 117
10.6 Checking the Compression 117
10.7 Transmission 118
10.7.1 Removing the Transmission Cover118
10.7.2 Removing the Fan Case 118
10.7.3 Removing the Transmission Cooling Intake 119
10.7.4 Removing the Driven Pulley Shaft Bearing 119
10.7.5 Fitting the Driven Pulley Shaft Bearing 119
10.7.6 Removing the Belt Support Roller 120
10.7.7 Refitting the Belt Support Roller 120
10.7.8 Removing the Driving Pulley 121
10.7.9 Removing the Driven Pulley 121
10.7.10 Inspecting the Clutch Drum 122
10.7.11 Checking the Clutch Drum Surface Eccentricity 122
10.7.12 Removing the Clutch 123
10.7.13 Disassembling the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley Bearings 123
10.7.14 Checking the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley 124
10.7.15 Checking the Moving Driven Half-Pulley 125
10.7.16 Fitting the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley Bearings 125
10.7.17 Refitting the Driven Pulley 126
10.7.18 Checking the Moving Driven Half-Pulley Spring 127
10.7.19 Checking the Drive Belt 127
10.7.20 Checking the Clutch Friction Material128
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10.7.21 Fitting the Clutch 128
10.7.22 Checking the Moving Driving Half-Pulley 129
10.7.23 Fitting the Fixed Driving Half-Pulley and Bushing Assembly 130
10.7.24 Fitting the Moving Half-Pulley Assembly 131
10.7.25 Fitting the Clutch Drum 132
10.7.26 Fitting the Transmission Cover 133
10.7.27 Removing the Rear Hub Cover 133
10.7.28 Removing the Rear Wheel Axle 134
10.7.29 Checking the Hub Casing Bearings134
10.7.30 Removing the Wheel Axle Bearing from the Cover 135
10.7.31 Removing the Driven Pulley Shaft 136
10.7.32 Checking the Hub Cover 136
10.7.33 Fitting the Hub Casing Bearings 136
10.7.34 Fitting the Wheel Axle Bearing on the Cover 137
10.7.35 Checking the Hub Shafts 138
10.7.36 Fitting the Hub Gears 139
10.7.37 Fitting the Hub Cover 139
10.8 Flywheel 140
10.8.1 Removing the Flywheel Cover Assembly 140
10.8.2 Removing the Flywheel 143
10.8.3 Removing the Stator 144
10.8.4 Checking the Stator 144
10.8.5 Checking the Low Oil Pressure Switch 145
10.8.6 Checking the Pick-Up 145
10.8.7 Checking the Flywheel 145
10.8.8 Fitting the Stator Assembly 145
10.8.9 Fitting the Flywheel 146
10.8.10 Fitting the Flywheel Cover Assembly 146
10.9 Checking the Secondary Air Box Valve 148
10.9.1 Checking the One-Way Valve 149
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10.10 Lubrication Circuit 151
10.10.1 Checking the Oil Pressure 152
10.10.2 Removing the Oil Sump and Pressure Adjusting By-Pass Valve 153
10.10.3 Checking the By-Pass Valve 153
10.10.4 Removing the Oil Pump 154
10.10.5 Checking the Oil Pump 155
10.10.6 Fitting the Oil Pump 156
10.10.7 Fitting the Chain Cover Oil Seal 157
10.10.8 Fitting the By-Pass and the Oil Sump 159
10.10.9 Removing the Intake Manifold 159
10.10.10 Thermostat Removal 160
10.10.11 Removing the Timing Chain Sprockets 160
10.10.12 Removing the Camshaft and Rockers 161
10.10.13 Removing the Cylinder Head 162
10.10.14 Removing the Valves 163
10.10.15 Removing the Cylinder and Piston Assembly 163
10.10.16 Inspecting the Small End 164
10.10.17 Inspecting the Wrist Pin Diameter165
10.10.18 Inspecting the Piston and Cylinder Diameters 165
10.10.19 Inspecting the Piston 166
10.10.20 Checking the Piston Ring Gap 167
10.10.21 Fitting the Piston 168
10.10.22 Choosing the Base Gasket Thickness168
10.10.23 Fitting the Piston Rings 170
10.10.24 Fitting the Cylinder 170
10.10.25 Inspecting the Cylinder Head 171
10.10.26 Checking the Valve Seals 171
10.10.27 Inspecting the Valve Seats 172
10.10.28 Inspecting the Valves 172
10.10.29 Testing the Valve Seals 174
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10.10.30 Checking the Valve Spring Plates and Half-cones 174
10.10.31 Fitting the Valves 174
10.10.32 Inspecting the Timing Components175
10.10.33 Inspecting the Camshaft 176
10.10.34 Fitting the Cylinder Head 177
10.10.35 Fitting the Timing Components 178
10.10.36 Fitting the Thermostat 181
10.10.37 Fitting the Intake Manifold 181
10.11 Crankshaft 182
10.11.1 Preparing the Engine for Crankcase Separation 182
10.11.2 Separating the Crankcase Halves 183
10.11.3 Checking the Crankshaft 184
10.11.4 Checking the Crankcase Halves 186
10.11.5 Checking the Main Bearings 187
10.11.6 Assembling the Crankcase Halves 188
10.11.7 Fitting the Starter Motor 190
10.11.8 Removing the Carburetor 191
10.11.8.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor 191
10.11.8.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor 197
10.11.9 Re-assembling the carburetor 204
10.11.9.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor 204
10.11.9.2 Walbro WFV-7P Carburetor 206
10.11.10 Checking the Float Height 208
10.11.10.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor 208
10.11.10.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor 210
10.11.11 Checking the Vacuum Valve and the Needle 212
10.11.11.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor 212
10.11.11.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor 214
10.11.12 Checking the Automatic Choke Device 215
10.11.12.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor 215
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10.11.12.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor 217
10.12 Cooling System 219
10.12.1 Cooling Circuit 219
10.12.2 Removing the Water Pump 220
10.12.3 Checking the Components 221
10.12.4 Fitting the Water Pump 222
10.12.5 Checking the Thermostat 224
11 Suspensions 225
11.1 Removing and Refitting the Front Wheel 226
11.2 Removing and Refitting the Rear Wheel 226
11.3 Removing the Steering Column 227
11.4 Removing the Front Wheel Hub 230
11.5 Front Wheel Hub Overhaul 230
11.6 Removing the Front Brake Caliper-Shock Absorber Bracket 232
11.7 Front Brake Caliper-Shock Absorber Bracket Overhaul 233
11.8 Removing the Front Shock Absorber235
11.9 Front Swing Arm Overhaul 235
11.10 Steering Column Ball-Cage Bearings Overhaul 237
11.11 Removing the Rear Shock Absorber-Silencer Bracket 240
11.12 Rear Shock Absorbers 241
11.12.1 Removing the Rear Shock Absorbers 241
11.12.2 Refitting the Rear Shock Absorbers 242
11.13 Central Stand 242
11.14 Inspecting the Rear Swing Arm 242
11.15 Swing Arm Overhaul 245
11.16 Silent-Block Overhaul 247
12 Bodywork 250
12.1 Removing the Seat 250
12.2 Removing the Steering Column Cover 250
12.3 Removing the Front Handlebar Cover250
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12.4 Removing the Rear Handlebar Cover251
12.5 Removing the Instrument Panel 251
12.6 Removing the Glove-box Panel 252
12.7 Removing the Battery Compartment Cover 254
12.8 Removing the Side Fairings 254
12.9 Removing the Footrest 254
12.10 Removing the Luggage Carrier 256
12.11 Removing the Taillight 257
12.12 Removing the Helmet Compartment257
12.13 Removing the Front Fender 258
12.14 Removing the Fuel Tank 258
12.15 Removing the Radiators and the Cooling Fan 260
12.16 Removing the Rear Mudguard 261
12.17 Removing the Turn Signal Lights 261
12.18 Removing the Electrical Opening Seat System 262
13 Pre- Delivery Inspections 264
13.1 Checking the Vehicle Appearance 264
13.2 Checking the Tightening Torques 264
13.3 Checking the Electrical Circuit 264
13.4 Checking the Levels 265
13.5 Road Test 265
13.6 Static Test 265
13.7 Functional Check 266
Time Sheets 267
14.1 Engine 267
14.2 Crankcase 267
14.3 Crankshaft 267
14.4 Piston-Cylinder Assembly 268
14.5 Cylinder Head and Valves 268
14.6 Camshaft 268
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14.7 Valve Cover 269
14.8 Chain Tensioner - By-Pass Valve 269
14.9 Oil Filter 269
14.10 Driven Pulley 270
14.11 Pump Assembly - Oil Sump 270
14.12 Rear Wheel Axle 271
14.13 Driving Pulley 271
14.14 Electric Starter 272
14.15 Kick-Starter, Transmission Cover, and Transmission Cooling 272
14.16 Transmission Cooling Air Inlet 272
14.17 Flywheel Magneto 273
14.18 Carburetor 273
14.19 Air Filter 274
14.20 Silencer 274
14.21 Frame 275
14.22 Central Stand 275
14.23 Footrest and Battery 276
14.24 Glove-Box 276
14.25 Helmet Compartment and Rear Fender 277
14.26 Front Fender and Rear Mudguard 277
14.27 Fuel Tank 277
14.28 Cooling System 278
14.29 Fuel Pump 278
14.30 Steering Column 279
14.31 Front Suspension 279
14.32 Rear suspension 280
14.33 Handlebar Covers 280
14.34 Handlebar, and Brake and Throttle Controls 281
14.35 Swing Arm 281
14.36 Brakes 282
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14.37 Saddle and Rear Rack 283
14.38 Locks and Immobilizer 283
14.39 Mirrors, Electric Controls, and Instrument Panel 284
14.40 Lights 285
14.41 Electrical Devices 286
14.42 Front Wheel 287
14.43 Rear Wheel 287
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1 Vespa GT 200
This manual has been prepared by Piaggio USA, Inc., a subsidiary of Piaggio & C. S.p.A., for
use in the workshops of authorized Piaggio ® dealers and sub-agents
It is assumed that the person utilizing this manual for servicing or repairing Piaggio® vehicles
has a knowledge of the principles of mechanics and standard procedures required for general
vehicle repair, therefore information regarding routine procedures has been deliberately
omitted. Any relevant changes concerning the vehicle characteristics or specific repair
operations will be divulged in the form of updates to this manual.
Satisfactory repair or service cannot be achieved without the necessary equipment and tools.
Refer to the pages of this manual concerning specific tools and equipment and the special tools
catalogue.
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2 Characteristics
This section describes the general characteristics of the vehicle.
2.1 Various
2.1.1 Workshop Safety
For tests performed with the engine running ensure the work is carried out in a well-ventilated
place and, if necessary, using appropriate extractors. Never run the engine in an enclosed
space; exhaust gases are toxic.
Some types of battery use sulphuric acid as an electrolyte. Protect eyes, clothing and skin.
Sulphuric acid is highly corrosive; if it comes into contact with the eyes or the skin, rinse
thoroughly with water and seek immediate medical attention.
The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is extremely explosive. Do not smoke and do not
allow flames or sparks near the battery, especially whilst it is being recharged.
Gasoline is extremely flammable and, under certain conditions, explosive. Do not smoke and do
not allow flames or sparks in the work area.
Cleaning of brake shoes, drums and pads should be done in a well-ventilated area, aiming
compressed air so as to avoid inhaling the dust produced by wear in the friction material. Even
the dust from asbestos-free linings can damage the health.
2.1.2 Service Recommendations
Use genuine Piaggio ® spare parts and recommended lubricants. Use of non-genuine spare
parts may damage the vehicle.
For operations requiring special tools, use only those designed specifically for this engine.
Always replace seals, gaskets and split pins with new ones, during reassembly.
After removing components, clean them with a non-flammable or high flash-point solvent.
Lubricate all contacting surfaces, inspect for taper fit couplings, before reassembling.
Check all components have been correctly fitted and test that they work properly after
reassembly.
Use only Metric -sized tools for removing, repairing and refitting operations. Metric screw
fasteners, nuts and bolts are not interchangeable or compatible with Imperial-sized fasteners.
Use of Imperial-sized tools or fasteners can damage the vehicle.
For repairs that involve disconnecting the vehicle’s electrics, test the connections after
reassembly, especially those to ground and to the battery.
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2.2 Vehicle Identification
2.2.1 Frame No.
Vehicle Frame prefix
Granturismo 200 cc ZAPM3120000001001
2.2.2 Engine No.
Vehicle Engine prefix
Granturismo 200 cc M312M1001
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2.3 Technical Specifications
2.3.1 Weight and Dimensions
Characteristics Descriptions
Dry weight 308 lbs. (140 Kg)
Width (at handgrips) 2.48 ft. (755 mm)
Length 6.36 ft. (1,940 mm)
Wheel base 4.58 ft. (1,395 mm)
Saddle height 2.62 ft. (800 mm)
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2.4 Engine
2.4.1 General
Characteristics Descriptions
Type Single-cylinder, four-stroke, four-valve, liquid-
cooled
Timing system Single overhead camshaft driven by chain on
L.H., 3-arm rockers with threaded adjuster
Bore 2.83 in. (72.0 mm)
Stroke 1.91 in. (48.6 mm)
Piston displacement 12.06 cu. in. (197.775 cm3)
Compression ratio 11-12: 1
Walbro carburetor WVF-7P
Keihin carburetor CVK 30
Engine idle 1650±50 rpm
CO value 3.8±0.7%
Air filter Sponge air filter, soaked in fuel-oil mixture (50%
gasoline - 50% oil)
Starter system Electric starter motor with torque limiter
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Lubrication By chain driven lobe pump in crankcase, mesh
strainer and cartridge filter
Fuel system Gasoline supplied by carburetor with vacuum
pump
Max power (shaft) 21 hp (15.4 kW) @ 8,500 rpm
Max speed 75 mph (120 km/h)
2.4.2 Walbro carburetor
Characteristics Descriptions
Vacuum type WVF-7P*
Printing on body 7P
CUT -OFF device Present
Max jet 95
Slow running jet 33
Main air jet 120
Idling air jet 55
Throttle valve spring 0.264 lbs (1.18 N)
Initial opening of idle speed mixture 2±½
adjusting screw
Conical needle 495
Notches from top of conical needle 2
Diffuser nozzle Ø 0.106 in (2.7 mm)
Fuel inlet hole Ø 0.059 in (1.5 mm)
Starting air jet 200
Starting diffuser jet 110
Starter jet 45
Starter pin diameter Ø 0.070 in (1.78 mm)
Starter device resistance ~40 O
Venturi tube Ø 1.142 in (29.0 mm) - (30.3×27.0 mm)
Throttle valve Ø 1.299 in (33.0 mm)
Tube maximum choke Ø 1.890 in (48.0 mm)
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2.4.3 Kehin carburetor
Characteristics Descriptions
Vacuum type CVK 30
Printing on body CVK
CUT -OFF device present
Max jet 92
Slow running jet 38
Main air jet 70
Idling air jet 115
Throttle valve spring 0.330–0.551 lbs (1.47–2.45 N)
Initial opening of idle speed mixture 2¼±¼
adjusting screw
Conical needle NDAA
Notches from top of conical needle Single-notch needle
Diffuser nozzle Ø 1.969 in (5.0 mm)
Fuel inlet hole Ø 0.059 in (1.5 mm)
Starting air jet -
Starting diffuser jet -
Starter jet 42
Choke pin diameter -
Choke device resistance ~ 20 O
Venturi tube Ø 1.142 in (29.0 mm) (47×30.9 mm)
Throttle valve Ø 1.201 in (30.5 mm)
Tube maximum choke -
*The identification letter may vary every time the carburetor is updated.
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2.5 Transmission
Characteristics Descriptions
Transmission By automatic variator, with expanding pulleys,
torque converter, V-belt, automatic clutch, gear
reducer and transmission compartment cooled
by forced air circulation
2.6 Capacities
Characteristics Descriptions
Engine oil ~1.06 quarts (~1,000 cm3)
(recommended oil: Selenia HI Scooter 4 Tech)
Fuel tank ~2.5 gallons (~9.5 liters)
(including reserve ~0.5 gal)
Rear hub ~0.16 quarts (~150 cm3)
(recommended oil: TUTELA ZC 90)
Cooling system fluid ~0.55-0.57 gallons (~2.10–2.15 liters)
(recommended: PARAFLU 11FE (diluted))
2.7 Electrical Components
Characteristics Descriptions
Ignition type Electronic ignition by capacitive discharge, with
variable advance and separate H.T. coil
Variable ignition advance From 10°±1° @ 2,000 rpm
(before T.D.C.) to 32°±1° @ 6,500 rpm
Spark plug Champion RG 6 YC
Battery 12V-12Ah
Fuses 1×15A, 1×10A, 3×7.5A, 2×5A
Generator In alternating current (AC)
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2.8 Frame, Suspensions, Brakes and Tires
2.8.1 Frame and Suspension
Characteristics Descriptions
Type Pressed steel, mono-coque type
Front suspension Single-arm suspension equipped with dual-effect
hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring
Front shock absorber travel 3.4 in (86.5 mm)
Rear suspension Engine mounted on oscillating fork pivoted to the
frame by means of an arm with 2 degrees of
freedom. Pair of dual effect hydraulic shock
absorbers and coaxial springs with 3 preload
adjustment positions
Rear shock absorber travel 3.52 in (89.5 mm)
2.8.2 Brakes
Characteristics Descriptions
Front Ø 8.66 in (220 mm) disc and hydraulically
operated floating caliper (via RH lever) with two
Ø 0.98 in (25 mm) pistons
Rear Ø 8.66 in (220 mm) disc and hydraulically
operated floating caliper (via LH lever) with two
Ø 1.18 in (30 mm) pistons
2.8.3 Wheels and Tires
Characteristics Descriptions
Aluminum alloy rims Front: 3.00×12”
Rear: 3.00×12”
Tires Front: 120/70-12” Tubeless
Rear: 130/70-12” Tubeless
Tire pressure (when cold): Front: 26.1 psi (1.8 bars)
Rear (rider only): 29.0 psi (2.0 bars)
Rear (rider + passenger): 31.9 psi (2.2 bars)
Note: The tire inflation pressure should be checked and adjusted when the tires are at
ambient temperature. Pressure should be adjusted according to the weight of the driver,
accessories, and/or passenger.
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3 Tightening Torques
3.1 Steering Unit
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
22.1–29.5
Steering upper ring nut 1
(30–40)
5.9–7.4
Steering lower ring nut 1
(8–10)
33.1–36.8
Handlebar clamping screw (*) 1
(45–50)
5.1–7.4
Handlebar control unit U-bolts fixing screws 2
(7–10)
3.2 Frame
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
47.1–53.0
Swing arm-engine pivot nut 1
(64–72)
56.0–61.1
Swing arm-frame pivot nut 1
(76–83)
24.3–30.2
Frame –engine link nut 1
(33–41)
30.9–38.3
Silent-block support plate bolt 2
(42–52)
18.4–22.1
Center stand bolt 1
(25–30)
3.3 Front Suspension
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
14.7–19.9
Shock absorber plate–caliper fixing screw 2
(20–27)
55.2–66.3
Wheel axle nut 1
(75–90)
14.7–18.4
Wheel screw 5
(20–25)
3.7–4.8
Mudguard–fork fixing screw 3
(5-6.5)
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3.4 Front Brake
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
13.7–18.4
Pump–oil tube connection 1
(20–25)
13.7–18.4
Caliper-oil tube connection 1
(20–25)
13.7–18.4
Caliper-shock absorber plate fixing screw 2
(20–25)
Disk clamping screw (°) 6 4.4 (6)
8.8–11.8
Oil bleeder screw 1
(12–16)
13.6–18.4
Pad clamping pin 2
(19.6-25)
9.6–13.7
Brake pump basin screw 2
(15–20)
3.5 Rear Suspension
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
L.H. side shock absorber support plate- 13.7–18.4
2
crankcase fixing screw (20–25)
13.7–18.4
Shock absorber top fastening 2
(20–25)
24.3–30.2
Shock absorber bottom fastening 2
(33–41)
76.5–92.6
Rear wheel axle 1
(104–126)
13.7–18.4
Wheel–hub fixing screw 5
(20–25)
Silencer-shock absorber support arm screws on 13.7–18.4
2
engine (*) (20–25)
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3.6 Rear Brake
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
13.7–18.4
Pipe-oil tube connection 1
(20–25)
13.7–18.4
Caliper–oil tube connection 2
(20–25)
8.1–9.6
Rear disk clamping screw (°) 6
(11–13)
8.8–11.8
Oil bleeder screw 1
(12–16)
13.7–18.4
Caliper–engine fixing screw 2
(20–25)
11.0–14.7
Brake pump basin screw 2
(15–20)
22.1–24.3
Caliper coupling screw 2
(30–33)
3.7 Silencer
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
3.7–4.4
Silencer heat shield fixing screw 4
(5–6)
9.6–11.0
Exhaust gas inlet screw 1
(13–15)
13.7–18.4
Silencer–support arm fixing screw 3
(20–25)
3.8 Hydraulic Components
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
11.0–12.5
Hub oil bleeder cap 1
(15–17)
19.9–24.3
Oil filter–crankcase fixing screw 1
(27–33)
17.7–22.1
Engine oil-net filter bleeder cap 1
(24–30)
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5.9–7.4
Oil filter 1
(8–10)
5.2–6.6
Oil pump cover screw 2
(7–9)
3.7–4.4
Oil pump –crankcase fixing screw 2
(5–6)
7.4–10.3
Oil pump control rim screw 1
(10–14)
2.9–4.4
Oil pump cover plate screws 2
(4–6)
7.4–10.3
Oil sump screw 7
(10–14)
8.8-10.3
Minimum oil pressure sensor 1
(12–14)
3.9 Cylinder Head
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
8.8–10.3
Spark plug 1
(12–14)
4.4–5.2
Head cover screw 5
(6–7)
5.2±0.7 +½ rotation
Head-cylinder fixing nut (*) (§) 4
(7±1 +180°)
8.1–9.6
Head fixing side screw 2
(11–13)
5.2–6.3
Start up mass screw 1
(7-8.5)
4.4–5.9
Adjustment tappet lock-nut 2
(6–8)
8.1–9.6
Intake manifold screw 2
(11–13)
7.4–10.3
Timing chain tightening sliding block screw 1
(10–14)
8.1–11.0
Start up mass bell screw 1
(11–15)
8.1–9.6
Timing belt tightening support screw 2
(11–13)
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3.7-4.4
Timing belt tightening central screw 1
(5–6)
2.9–4.4
Camshaft retain plate screw 2
(4–6)
3.10 Transmission
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
8.1–9.6
Belt support roller screw 1
(11–13)
40.5–44.2
Clutch assy. nut 1
(55–60)
55.2–61.1
Driving pulley nut 1
(75–83)
8.1–9.6
Transmission cover screw 13
(11–13)
39.8–44.4
Driven pulley axle nut 1
(54–60)
17.7–19.9
Rear hub cover screw 7
(24–27)
3.11 Flywheel
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
3.7–4.4
Flywheel cover fixing screw 4
(5–6)
2.2–2.9
Stator unit screw (°) 2
(3–4)
38.3–42.7
Flywheel nut 1
(52–58)
2.2–2.9
Pick-up fixing screw 2
(3–4)
3.12 Engine Crankcase and Shaft
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
Engine crankcase inside head screws 2.9–4.4
2
(transmission side half shaft) (4–6)
8.1–9.6
Engine crankcase coupling screws 11
(11–13)
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8.1–9.6
Starter motor screws 2
(11–13)
2.5-3.2
Crankcase timing chain cover screw (°) 3
(3.5-4.5)
3.13 Cooling
Component Qty Torque [lbs· ft (N·m)]
2.2–2.9
Water pump impeller cover 3
(3–4)
2.2–2.9
Water pump impeller driving joint screws 3
(3–4)
2.2–2.9
Thermostat cover screws 2
(3–4)
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4 Assembly Clearances
4.1 Piston–Cylinder Mating
1.3 in (33mm)
1.3 in (33mm)
[in (mm)]
Coupling Classes Assembly
Part Dimensions
Clearance
Class Cylinder Piston
+0.0 0 0 7 2.8342–2.8345 2.8327–2.8330
A (71.990-71.997) (71.953-71.960)
2.835 − 0.0 0 0 3
Cylinder
+0.018
2.8345–2.8347 2.8330–2.8333
( 72.00 −0.010 ) B (71.997-72.004) (71.960-71.967)
0.00118–0.00173
(0.030-0.044)
2.8347–2.8350 2.8333–2.8336
C
2.833 ±0.0 0 0 5 (72.004-72.011) (71.967-71.974)
Piston
( 71 .97 ±0. 014 ) D 2.8350–2.8353 2.8336–2.8338
(72.011-72.018) (71.974-71.981)
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4.2 O Rings
[in (mm)]
Clearance Assembly
Part Dimensions
Class Clearance
2.834×0.059 0.005–0.011
Compression ring A
(72.0×1.5) (0.15-0.30)
2.834×0.039 0.007–0.015
Scraper ring A
(72.0×1.0) (0.20-0.40)
2.834×0.098 0.007–0.015
Scraper ring A
(72.0×2.5) (0.20-0.40)
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4.3 Compression Ratio Limiting Shimming System: (11-12:1)
1. Measure «A» (with piston at T.D.C.).
Note: Measure «A» must be taken without any gasket installed between the crankcase and the
cylinder and after resetting the comparator, complete with support, on a rectified surface.
2. Install according to the measure «A» taken.
Note: The «A» value to be measured is referred to the piston recess. It indicates the amount
by which the surface formed by the piston crown lowers, compared to the surface formed by
the cylinder upper part. The more the piston descends into the cylinder, the less the base
gasket to be applied (to recover the compression ratio) will be and vice versa.
[in (mm)]
Measure «A» Gasket thickness
(1.7-1.6) 0.015±0.0019 (0.4±0.05)
(1.6-1.4) 0.023±0.0019 (0.6±0.05)
(1.4-1.3) 0.031±0.0019 (0.8±0.05)
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4.4 Crankshaft End-Play
Standard clearance:
Crankshaft/crankcase axial clearance 0.005-0.015 in
(engine cold) (0.15-0.40 mm)
[in (mm)]
Clearance Assembly
Part Dimensions
Class Clearance
+0.0 0 0 0
0.653 −0.0 0 1 9
Half-shaft transmission side +0.000
A
( 16.60 −0.050 )
+0.0 0 0 0
0.653 −0.0 0 1 9
Half-shaft flywheel side +0.000
B
( 16.60 −0.050 )
D= 0.007–0.019
−0.0 0 5 9
(0.20-0.50)
0.708 − 0.0 0 4 0
Connecting rod −0.150
C
( 18.00 −0.100 )
+0.0 0 1 0
2.023 − 0.0 0 0 0
Spacing tool −0.150
D
( 18.00 −0.100 )
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4.5 Crankshaft Alignment
Measure the diameters on both X and Y axes
Class Standard diameter (mm)
1.1416–1.1418
1
(28.998-29.004)
1.1418–1.1421
2
(29.004-29.010)
Maximum allowable misalignment:
A = 0.15 mm
B = 0.01 mm
C = 0.01 mm
D = 0.10 mm
Specific tools and equipment:
Support and comparator 020335Y
Crankshaft aligning tool 020074Y
Crankcase – Crankshaft – Half crankshaft bearings
Class 1 Class 2
Crankcase
1.2973–1.2978
(32.953–32.963)
Half A type - Red B type - Blue C type - Yellow
crankshaft
0.0776–0.0777 0.0777–0.0778 0.0778–0.779
bearing
(1.970–1.973) (1.973–1.976) (1.976–1.979)
Note: Spare crankcases are selected Half-crankcase Half crankshaft Bearing
with half-crankcases of the same
category and mounted with category Cat. 1 Cat. 1 B
B bearings (blue colored).
Match the shaft with two category 1
Cat. 2 Cat. 2 B
shoulders with category 1 crankcase
(or cat. 2 with cat. 2).
A spare crankcase cannot be Cat. 1 Cat. 2 A
combined with a crankshaft with
mixed categories. Spare shafts have
Cat. 2 Cat. 1 C
half-shafts of the same category.
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5 Recommended Lubricants
Use Characteristics Recommended Product
SAE 80W/90 oil, exceeding
Rear hub TUTELA ZC 90
API GL3 specifications
Mineral oil with specific
Air filter sponge additives to increase SELENIA Air Filter Oil
adhesion ISO VG 150
Complex calcium soap
Brake levers, throttle handgrip SYSTEM TW 249 AREXONS
grease NLGI 1-2
SAE 5W/40 synthetic oil,
SELENIA HI Scooter 4
Engine oil exceeding API SJ Tech
specifications
Synthetic fluid SAE J1703,
Brake fluid NHTSA 116 DOT 4, TUTELA TOP 4
ISO 4925
Monoethylene glycol-based
Coolant anti-freezer, PARAFLU 11 FE (Diluted)
CUNA NC 956-16
Grease for driven pulley shaft
MONTBLANC
compensating ring and Molybdenum disulphide
MOLYBDENUM GREASE
moveable driven pulley sliding grease
(498345)
seat
Lithium soap and zinc oxide
Grease for wheel bearings, pivot
grease NLG12 for the TUTELA ZETA 2
housings and swing arm
oscillating arm
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6 Special Tools
6.1 Steering Bearing Seat Installer – 001330Y
Description Notes Part No.
Steering bearing seat installer; to
be fitted with parts:
NECESSARY 001330Y
001330Y009- For bottom housing
001330Y010- For top housing
6.2 Pliers – 001467Y014
Description Notes Part No.
001467Y
0.59 in (15mm) Pliers NECESSARY
014
6.3 Bell – 001467Y017
Description Notes Part No.
001467Y
Bell NECESSARY
017
6.4 Steering Column Ball-Cage Bearing Removing Punch – 020004Y
Description Notes Part No.
Punch for removing steering
column ball-cage bearings from RECOMMENDED 020004Y
steering head
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6.5 Front Suspension Overhaul Tool – 020021Y
Description Notes Part No.
Front suspension overhaul tool NECESSARY 020021Y
6.6 Punch – 020036Y
Description Notes Part No.
Punch NECESSARY 020036Y
6.7 Punch - 020038Y
Description Notes Part No.
Punch NECESSARY 020038Y
6.8 Ring Nut Spanner - 020055Y
Description Notes Part No.
Steering column ring nut spanner NECESSARY 020055Y
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6.9 Crankshaft Aligner - 020074Y
Description Notes Part No.
Crankshaft aligning tool RECOMMENDED 020074Y
6.10 Heat Gun Support - 020150Y
Description Notes Part No.
“Metabo hg 1500/2” hot air gun RECOMMENDED 020150Y
support
6.11 Heat Gun - 020151Y
Description Notes Part No.
“Metabo hg 1500/2” hot air gun RECOMMENDED 020151Y
6.12 Oil Pressure Gauge - 020193Y
Description Notes Part No.
Oil pressure gauge NECESSARY 020193Y
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6.13 Crankcase Detacher - 020262Y
Description Notes Part No.
Crankcase detachment plate RECOMMENDED 020262Y
6.14 Half-Pulley Assembler - 020263Y
Description Notes Part No.
Half pulley assembly sheath NECESSARY 020263Y
6.15 Fitting Punch - 020306Y
Description Notes Part No.
Retaining ring fitting punch NECESSARY 020306Y
6.16 Vacuum Pump - 020329Y
Description Notes Part No.
Mitivac-like vacuum pump RECOMMANDED 020329Y
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6.17 Timing Light - 020330Y
Description Notes Part No.
Timing light for two and four- RECOMMANDED 020330Y
stroke engines
6.18 Digital Multimeter - 020331Y
Description Notes Part No.
Digital multimeter RECOMMANDED 020331Y
6.19 Digital Tachometer - 020332Y
Description Notes Part No.
Digital tachometer RECOMMANDED 020332Y
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6.20 Single Battery Charger - 020333Y
Description Notes Part No.
Single battery charger RECOMMANDED 020333Y
6.21 Multiple Battery Charger - 020334Y
Description Notes Part No.
Multiple battery charger RECOMMANDED 020334Y
6.22 Dial Gauge - 020335Y
Description Notes Part No.
Dial gauge (0.001 mm) with
RECOMMANDED 020335Y
magnetic stand
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6.23 Adapter (42×47 mm) - 020359Y
Description Notes Part No.
42×47 mm Adapter NECESSARY 020359Y
6.24 Adapter (52×55 mm) - 020360Y
Description Notes Part No.
52×55 mm Adapter NECESSARY 020360Y
6.25 Guide (20 mm) - 020363Y
Description Notes Part No.
20 mm guide NECESSARY 020363Y
6.26 Guide (25mm) - 020364Y
Description Notes Part No.
25 mm guide NECESSARY 020364Y
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6.27 Guide (22 mm) - 020365Y
Description Notes Part No.
22 mm guide NECESSARY 020365Y
6.28 Adapter (28×30 mm) - 020375Y
Description Notes Part No.
28×30 mm adapter NECESSARY 020375Y
6.29 Handle - 020376Y
Description Notes Part No.
Handle for adapters NECESSARY 020376Y
6.30 Valve Half -Cone Remover - 020382Y
Description Notes Part No.
Tool for valve half-cone removal NECESSARY 020382Y
6.31 Bushing - 020382Y011
Description Notes Part No.
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020382Y
Bushing (for valve removal) NECESSARY
011
6.32 Piston Assembly Band - 020393Y
Description Notes Part No.
Piston assembly band NECESSARY 020393Y
6.33 Multimeter Adapter - 020409Y
Description Notes Part No.
Multimeter adapter (peak voltage
RECOMMENDED 020409Y
measurement)
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6.34 Guide (15 mm) - 020412Y
Description Notes Part No.
15 mm guide NECESSARY 020412Y
6.35 Clutch Drum Lock Wrench - 020423Y
Description Notes Part No.
Clutch drum lock wrench NECESSARY 020423Y
6.36 Punch - 020424Y
Description Notes Part No.
Driven pulley-roller housing
NECESSARY 020424Y
installing punch
6.37 Punch - 020425Y
Description Notes Part No.
Oil seal (flywheel-side) punch NECESSARY 020425Y
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6.38 Piston Fitting Fork - 020426Y
Description Notes Part No.
Piston fitting fork NECESSARY 020426Y
6.39 Piston Support - 020428Y
Description Notes Part No.
Piston projection support NECESSARY 020428Y
6.40 Valve O-Ring Remover - 020431Y
Description Notes Part No.
Valve o-ring removing tool NECESSARY 020431Y
6.41 Oil Pressure Gauge - 020434Y
Description Notes Part No.
Oil pressure gauge NECESSARY 020434Y
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6.42 Guide (17 mm) - 020439Y
Description Notes Part No.
17 mm guide for shock absorber
NECESSARY 020439Y
support bearing assembly
6.43 Water Pump Overhaul Tool - 020440Y
Description Notes Part No.
Water pump overhaul tool NECESSARY 020440Y
6.44 Adapter (26×28 mm) - 020441Y
Description Notes Part No.
26×28 mm adapter NECESSARY 020441Y
6.45 Stop Wrench - 020442Y
Description Notes Part No.
Driving pulley wrench NECESSARY 020442Y
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6.46 Driven Pulley Spring Tool - 020444Y
Description Notes Part No.
Driven pulley spring compressing
NECESSARY 020444Y
tool
6.47 Guide (30 mm) - 020483Y
Description Notes Part No.
30 mm guide for hub bearing
NECESSARY 020483Y
assembly
6.48 Pivot Retainers Installer - 020488Y
Description Notes Part No.
Pivot retainers installation tool NECESSARY 020488Y
6.49 Hub Cover support - 020489Y
Description Notes Part No.
Hub cover support tool kit NECESSARY 020489Y
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6.50 Flywheel Wrench - 020565Y
Description Notes Part No.
Adjustable wrench for flywheel
NECESSARY 020565Y
fixing
6.51 Engine Support - 002095Y
Description Notes Part No.
Engine support; to be fitted with
parts:
002095Y015 – Tube
RECOMMENDED 002095Y
002095Y022 – Cross member
002095Y023 – Nut
002095Y044 – Plate
002095Y046 - Clamp
6.52 Pliers - 002465Y
Description Notes Part No.
Snap-ring pliers RECOMMENDED 002465Y
6.53 Punch - 06029Y
Description Notes Part No.
Steering column ball-cage bearing RECOMMENDED 006029Y
installing punch
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6.54 Flywheel Extractor - 08564Y
Description Notes Part No.
Flywheel removing tool NECESSARY 008564Y
6.55 Gas Analyzer - 494929
Description Notes Part No.
Exhaust gas analyzer RECOMMENDED 494929
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7 Maintenance
This section provides information on periodical maintenance.
7.1 Maintenance Schedule
×625 miles 1 6 1 1 2 3 3 4 4 5 6 6 7
(×1,000 km) 2 8 4 0 6 2 8 4 0 6 2
Months 4 1 2 3 - - - - - - - - -
2 4 6
Check: V
Replacement: S
Engine oil - Check level/Top up V Every 1,875 mile (3,000 km)
Engine oil – Replace S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Hub oil level - Check/Replace S V V V S V V V S V V V S
Spark plug/Electrodes distance - Check
V S V S V S V S V S V S
/Replace
Air filter – Clean V V V V V V V V V V V V
Secondary air filter (external internal) – Clean Every 2 years
Oil filter – Replace S S S S S S S S S S S S S
Valve clearance - Check V V V V V
Idle speed (*) – Adjust V V V V V V V
Gas control – Adjust V V V V V V V
Variator rollers – Check/Replace V V V V V V V V V V V V
Driving belt - Check/Replace V S V S V S V S V S V S
Cooling fluid level - Check V V V V V V V V V V V V
Cooling fluid – Replace Every 2 years
Radiator – Clean exterior/Check V V V V
Steering – Adjust V V V V V V V
Brake levers – Lubricate V V V V V V V
Brake pads - Check condition and wear V V V V V V V V V V V V V
Brake fluid piping – Replace S S
Brake fluid level - Check V V V V V V V V V V V V V
Brake fluid - Replace Every 2 years
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Transmissions- Lubricate V V V V V V
Safety locks – Check V V V V V V V
Suspensions – Check V V V V V V
Electrical system and Battery - Check V V V V V V V V V V V V V
Headlight - Check/Adjust V V V V V V
Tires pressure and wear - Check V V V V V V V V V V V V
Vehicle and braking system performance - Road
V V V V V V V V V V V V V
test
Labor time 70' 130' 135' 140' 150' 90' 245' 90' 150' 140' 135' 90' 260'
Safety tightenings: refer to the chapter “Pre-delivery Operations”.
(*) See rules
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7.2 Carburetor
- Disassemble all carburetor components, ac-
curately wash them in solvent, and then dry
them with compressed air. To ensure
thorough cleaning, pay particular attention
to the passages in the carburetor body.
- Carefully check the conditions of each
component.
- The throttle valve must slide freely into the
chamber; in case of excessive play due to
wear, replace the valve.
- Replace the carburetor if the chamber shows
excessive signs of wear as to preclude the
valve’s regular seal or free sliding (even if
new).
- Gaskets should be replaced every time the
carburetor is reassembled.
Warning - Fuel is highly explosive. Always re-
place gaskets to prevent leakage.
1. Diaphragm cover - 2. Throttle valve spring -
3. Conical needle support - 4. Conical needle
spring -5. Conical needle - 6. Throttle valve
diaphragm - 7. Automatic choke - 8. Idle speed
adjusting screw - 9. Return valve rockers -
10. Idle mixture adjusting screw - 11. Float pin
- 12.Return pump unit - 13. Float - 14. Float
chamber - 15. Idling jet - 16.Main jet -
17. Diffuser - 18. Float chamber drain screw.
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7.3 Checking and Replacing the Spark Plug
Warning – Remove the spark plug when the
engine is cold. Replace the spark plug every
7,500 miles (12,000 km). The use of non-
conforming ignition controllers, and spark
plugs other than those prescribed can
seriously damage the engine.
Recommended spark plug:
Champion RG6YC
- Rest the vehicle on the central stand
- Open the saddle and extract the helmet
compartment
- Disconnect the spark plug H.T. cable cap.
- Unscrew the spark plug, using the spanner
provided.
- Inspect the spark plug, to ensure that the
insulator is in good conditions and no signs
of cracks are visible. Also check the
condition of the seal washer and make sure
that the electrodes are not worn out or
excessively sooty.
- Measure the spark gap with a suitable
thickness gauge
Standard dimension:
Spark gap 0.028-0.031 in.
(0.7–0.8 mm)
- If necessary adjust the spark gap by
carefully bending the side electrode.
- If the spark plug shows any of the defects
mentioned above, replace it with a plug of
the recommended type.
- Insert the spark plug with the proper
inclination, and screw it thoroughly by
hand, then tighten it using the supplied
spanner.
Tightening torque:
Spark plug 8.9-10.3 lbs·ft
(12-14 N·m)
Insert the cap over the spark plug thoroughly
and proceed to the reassembly
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7.4 Air Filter
Note: Every 3,726 miles (6,000 km) it is
necessary to check the air filter and blow it, if
required. The jet should be directed from the
inside outwards of the filter (i.e., opposite to the
air flow direction during normal engine
operation).
- Remove the left hand-side fairing by releasing
the two screws, as shown in the figure
- Remove the helmet compartment
- Remove the three fastening screws that can
be reached after the removal of the helmet
compartment, from inside the frame
- Remove the five fixing screws shown in the
figure
- Remove the filtering element.
- Replace the air filter with a new one.
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Note: Every 3,726 miles (6,000 km), during
servicing, it is necessary to remove the stops
and the rubber caps located below the filter
box, as shown in the figure, and drain any oil
accumulation.
Cleaning (Every 7,452 miles, or 12,000 km):
- Wash with water and shampoo.
- Dry with light jets of compressed air and wipe with a clean cloth.
- Soak with a 50% fuel-oil mixture (use SELENIA AIR FILTER OIL).
- Let the filtering element drip and squeeze it with hands without wringing.
- Replace the filtering element.
Caution – If the vehicle is mostly used on dusty roads, the air filter must be cleaned more
frequently than what indicated in the scheduled maintenance table.
Caution – Never let the engine run without air filter. This would cause an excessive wear of
cylinder and piston and would damage the carburetor.
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7.5 Engine Oil
Engine oil is used in 4-stroke engines to lubricate the valve gear components, the
crankshaft bearings and the power plant. An insufficient quantity of oil can cause
serious damage to the engine itself.
In all 4-stroke engines, oil deterioration and consumption are, to some extent, normal,
especially during running-in. Consumption partly depends on the riding style (e.g.: when
riding constantly at full throttle, oil consumption increases).
7.5.1 Checking the Engine Oil Level
Perform the following operations when the
engine is cold:
- Rest the vehicle on the central stand and
on a flat surface.
- Unscrew dipstick «A», dry it with a clean
cloth and reinsert it, by screwing it
completely.
- Remove the dipstick again and check that
the level is between the MAX and MIN
levels; top up, if required.
The MAX level mark means that in the engine
there is an oil quantity of approximately
1.164 quarts (1,100 cm3).
Note: The level will be lower if checked after
using the vehicle (i.e. when the engine is
hot). To obtain a correct indication of the oil
level, wait at least 10 minutes after switching
off the engine.
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7.5.2 Topping-Up the Engine Oil
The oil should be topped up after having
checked the level and in any case by adding
oil without ever exceeding the MAX mark.
Restoring the level between MIN and MAX
requires a quantity of oil of ~0.4 quarts
(~400 cm3).
Oil pressure warning light
The vehicle is equipped with a warning light
on the instrument panel which comes on
when the ignition key is turned to the “ON”
position. However, this light should switch off
once the engine has started.
Note: Should the light turn on while braking,
idling or cornering, check the oil level and the
lubrication system as soon as possible.
7.5.3 Replacing the Oil and Oil Filter
- Oil and filter should be replaced every
3,726 mi (6,000 km). The engine should
be emptied by draining the oil from the
pre-filter drainage tap «B» of the net pre-
filter on the flywheel side. To facilitate the
oil drainage, loosen dipstick «A». Once
the oil has been drained from the drainage
tap, loosen the oil filter cartridge «C» and
remove it as described below.
- Check that the O-rings of the pre-filter and
drainage cap are not worn out and in good
conditions.
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- Lubricate the O-rings and replace net filter
and oil drainage cap; tighten at the
prescribed torque.
- Install the new cartridge filter after
lubricating the O-ring.
- Fill with fresh engine oil.
- Since a certain quantity of oil still remains
in the circuit, the fill-up should be carried
out with about 0.64 quarts (600-650 cm3)
of oil from cap «A». Subsequently, start
up the engine, let it idle for a few minutes
and then switch it off. After about 5
minutes, check the level and top up if
necessary without ever exceeding the
MAX mark. The cartridge filter must be
replaced every time the oil is changed. For
top ups and replacements, use fresh
Selenia HI Scooter 4 Tech oil.
Note: Engine oil should be replaced when the
engine is hot.
Tightening torque:
Engine oil drainage cap 17.6-22.1 lbs·ft
(24-30 N·m)
Recommended oil:
Selenia HI Scooter 4 Tech
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7.6 Hub Oil
7.6.1 Checking the Hub Oil Level
- Position the vehicle on its central stand on
a flat surface
- Unscrew the oil dipstick «A», dry it with a
clean cloth and reinsert it, screwing it in
completely.
- Pull out the dipstick and check that the oil
level reaches the lower notch (see figure);
if the level is below the MAX mark, restore
the proper amount of oil in the hub.
- Reinsert the dipstick and screw it tightly.
The notches on the hub oil dipstick, with the
exception of the MAX mark, refer to other
PIAGGIO models and have no specific
function as far as this vehicle is concerned.
7.6.2 Replacing the Hub Oil
- Remove oil filler cap «A».
- Unscrew oil drain cap «B» and let the oil
drain out completely.
- Retighten the oil drain cap and then fill the
hub with fresh oil
Recommended oil: TUTELA ZC 90
Oil capacity:
Rear hub ~0.16 quarts
(~150 cm3)
Tightening torques:
Hub oil draining screw 11.0-12.5 lbs·ft
(15-17 N·m)
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7.7 Topping-Up the Engine Cooling Liquid
Note: The liquid level inspection should be
carried out every 3,726 mi. (6,000 km) when
the engine is cold. The following steps should
be followed:
- Rest the vehicle on its central stand level
ground.
- Loosen the screw shown in the figure and
remove the plastic flap on the right hand
side of the vehicle’s leg-shield, in order to
access the cooling liquid expansion tank
- Remove the expansion tank cap and top
up, if the coolant level is below or near the
MIN level in the expansion tank. The fluid
level should always be between the MIN
and MAX marks.
- The coolant consists of a 50% mixture of
demineralized water and antifreeze
solution with a base of ethylene glycol and
corrosion inhibitors.
Warning – To prevent leaks of the cooling
fluid from the expansion tank during the use
of the vehicle, never exceed the MAX mark
upon filling.
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7.8 Brake Fluid
7.8.1 Checking the Brake Fluid Level
The front and rear brake fluid reservoirs are
located on the pumps installed on the
handlebar.
In order to check the brake fluid level in the
reservoirs, follow these steps:
- Rest the vehicle on its central stand on
level ground and turn the handlebar to the
central position.
- Remove the brake pump cover.
- Check the fluid level through the sight
shown in the figure.
Note: A certain decrease in the level of the
fluid occurs as a result of pad wear.
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7.8.2 Topping-Up the Brake Fluid Level
Caution - Only use brake fluid classified as
DOT 4.
- If the level is below minimum, loosen the
two screws shown in the figure.
- Remove the reservoir cap, remove the
gasket and top up, only using the
prescribed fluid and without exceeding the
maximum level.
Recommended brake fluid:
TUTELA TOP 4
Warning – Keep the brake fluid away from
the skin, the eyes and clothing. In case of
contact, rinse thoroughly with water.
Warning – The brake fluid is highly
corrosive. Do not let it come into contact with
the paintworks.
Warning – The brake fluid is hygroscopic, i.e.
it absorbs humidity from the surrounding air.
If the concentration of humidity in the fluid
exceeds a certain value, the braking action
becomes insufficient.
Warning - Never use braking fluid drawn
from open or partly empty containers.
In normal climatic conditions, the fluid should
be replaced every 12,420 mi (20,000 km) or
in any case every 2 years.
Note: Change brake fluid and bleed system
as described in chapter “Braking System”.
Tightening torque
Reservoir screws: 11.0-14.7 lbs·ft
(15-20 N·m)
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7.9 Removing the Steering Lock
7.9.1 Removing the Steering Lock when on «OFF» Position
- Remove the leg-shield as described in
chapter “Bodywork”.
- Remove the immobilizer antenna shown in
the figure.
- Disconnect the wiring.
- Pull out the retaining spring shown in the
figure and remove the ignition switch.
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- Push the bolt lightly and extract the
retainer from the milled part shown in the
figure.
- Extract the bolt assembly from the lock
body.
- To refit, follow the reverse procedure.
7.9.2 Removing the Steering Lock when on «LOCK» Position
The bolt retaining spring is not accessible in
the «LOCK» position. It is then necessary to
drill the bolt as shown in the figure to eject it.
Note: To refit the bolt from this position, first
disengage the steering lock by putting the
lock body (inner and outer part) in the OFF
position.
To refit, proceed as described in the previous
paragraph.
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7.10 Headlight Adjustment
- Place the unloaded vehicle on a flat
surface, 32.8 ft (10 m) from a half lit white
screen, with the tires inflated to the
prescribed pressure. Ensure that the axis
of the vehicle is perpendicular to the
screen.
- Trace a horizontal line on the screen 27.2-
28.3 in (67-70 cm) above ground.
- Remove the steering cover by loosening
the screw shown in the figure.
- Switch on the headlight, turn on the low
beam and check that the horizontal line,
which separates the lighted area from the
dark area, is not above the line previously
drawn on the screen. To shift the
headlight, operate on the adjusting screw
immediately below the headlight, as shown
in the figure.
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7.11 Checking the Spark Advance
- To check the spark advance, use the
stroboscopic light with the induction clamp
connected toe the spark plug feeder cable.
- Connect the induction clamp paying
attention to the polarity (the arrow on the
clamp must be facing the spark plug).
- Set the lamp selector to the central position
(1 spark = 1 crankshaft revolution as in 2
stroke engines).
- Start the engine and check that the lamp
works properly and that the revolution
counter can also read high engine speeds
(e.g. 8,000 rpm).
- If flashing or rpm reading instabilities are
noted, increase the resistive load on the
spark plug feeder cable (10-15 kO in series
with the H.T. cable).
- Remove the plastic cover from the slotted
hole on the flywheel cover.
- Using the lamp flash phase shift corrector,
align the reference mark on the flywheel
cover with the level on the water pump
drive. Read the degrees of advance on the
stroboscopic light.
- Check the revolving speed corresponding to
the degrees of advance in the tables below.
- If any discrepancy is found, check the pick-
up and the control unit feeders (positive-
negative). If necessary, replace the control
unit.
- An un-programmed control unit prevents
the engine from exceeding 2,000 rpm.
- A programmed control unit allows the
engine to revolve within the prescribed
limits.
Spark advance:
from 10°±1° @ 2,000 rpm
to 32°±1° @ 6,000 rpm
Specific tools and equipment:
Timing Light 020330Y
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7.12 Spark Advance Variation Curve
Rev limiter
First threshold First threshold
Tripping threshold 9,900±50 rpm 9,900±50 rpm
Restore threshold 9,800±50 rpm 9,800±50 rpm
Spark suppression 1 spark out of 7 2 sparks out of 3
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7.13 Evaporative emission system
A = Canister
B = Uni-directional valve
C = Air intake membrane
D = Cylinder head
E = Carburetor
F = Air intake float chamber
G = Pump
H = Fuel output
I = Fuel tank
L = Plug
M = Fuel breather pipe
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N = Roll-over valve
O = Union “T”
P = Enviornment
Checking the CO Concentration
This test may be re quired when engine operation is irregular or while adjusting the idle.
The test must be carried out after washing all carburetor components and making sure that the
air filter is clean and the spark plug is in good condition.
- Remove the side fairing and then the trans-
mission cooling air inlet duct so as to easily
reach the flow adjustment screw.
- Remove the gas cap on the exhaust.
- Using the original washer, install the exhaust
gas collection kit onto the exhaust.
- Suitably orientate all the components.
- Close the gas outlet terminal of the tool.
- Start the engine and let it warm up until the
electric fan activates.
- Stop the engine.
- Disconnect the SAS (Secondary Air System)
check valve vacuum pipe from the ‘T’
connection shown in the figure.
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- Seal the connection using a cap or a pipe
portion with conical a cap.
- Connect the Mitivac vacuum pump to the
control pipe and to the SAS valve.
- Start the vacuum pump up to a pressure of
-8.7 ÷ -11.6 psi (-0.6 ÷ -0.8 bar) so as to
close the valve and cut off the SAS system.
Remove the exhaust gas collection kit closing cap and connect the analyzer properly pre-
heated.
Check the conditions displayed by the analyzer and the engine rpm and adjust the CO
value to:
3.8±0.7 @ 1,650±50 rpm
Special equipment and tools:
Mityvac-like vacuum pump 020329Y
Digital tachometer 020332Y
Exhaust gas analyzer 494929Y
Note: Check that the result is obtained with the gas valve in the closest position.
Also check that the carburetion adjustment is obtained with the flow screw open by 2 to 4
turns.
If not, check the fuel level adjustment in the basin and check the fuel circuit.
In case of unsteady CO, check the carburetor cleaning, the feeding system efficiency and
the vacuum seals.
In case of unburnt hydrocarbons (HC) > of 1,000 p.p.m., check the ignition system, the
timing, the valve clearance and the drainage valve seal.
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7.14 SAS (Secondary Air System)
7.14.1 General
The Secondary Air System (SAS) on the 200cc
L.E.AD.E.R. engines is similar, in principle, to the
SAS employed on PIAGGIO’s 2-stroke engines.
Here, however, the secondary air enters directly
into the exhaust duct from the head.
The bleed valve found on the 2-stroke engine is here replaced by a membrane. The unit,
indicated by an arrow in the figure, is provided with a cut-off connected to the vacuum inlet
on the intake manifold to shut the air inlet during deceleration, to prevent explosions in the
silencer.
7.14.2 Description
Air is sucked through hole «A» and flows through
the first filter into hole «B».
Passing through the hole indicated in the figure,
air reaches the second filter «B».
At this point, the filtered air enters into the
membrane device to be channeled towards the
head.
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Flowing through a stiff duct, flanged to the head,
the secondary air reaches the exhaust duct thus
providing oxygen addition to the unburnt gases
just before they enter the catalytic converter. The
efficiency of he catalyzing process is therefore
increased.
7.14.3 Removing the SAS
Warning – This operation must be performed
with the engine cold.
Remove the silencer.
Remove the R.H. fairing.
Loosen the clamps and remove the cooling fluid
inlet and outlet sleeves from the pump cover and
drain the cooling system.
Remove the top strip fixing the SAS valve
connection sleeve to the drainage as shown in the
figure.
Remove the 2 fixing screws, the gasket and the
pipe connecting the SAS valve to the head. Then,
remove the pipe.
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Release the electric wiring fixing from the
flywheel cover as shown in the figure
Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the SAS valve
Remove the pump support bracket and the fuel
filter
Remove the flywheel cover with the SAS valve by
releasing the 4 hexagon screws as shown in the
figure
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Remove the two SAS valve fixing screws and
remove the valve with the O-ring from the
support
Remove the plastic support with the gasket
Check that the secondary air box valve plastic
support is free from cracks and deformations
Check the integrity of the gasket
Warning - An impaired seal between secondary
air box valve and flywheel cover causes an
increase of noise of the system.
Carefully clean the internal and external filter. If
they exhibit damages or abnormal deformations,
proceed to the replacement.
Check that the sleeve connecting the secondary
air to the head exhibits no cracks or
deformations. Replace them, if necessary. Check
that the metal duct is free from cracks.
For re-assembly, perform the operations for
removal in the reverse order respecting the
orientation of the rubber sleeve connecting the
SAS valve to the exhaust system.
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8 Troubleshooting
This section provides troubleshooting guidance. All faults are provided with a list of possible
causes and remedies.
8.1 Engine
8.1.1 Poor Performance
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Carburetor dirty. Fuel pump or Remove, wash with solvent and dry
one-way valve faulty with compressed air, or replace
Timing failure or timing system Reset timing phase or replace any
parts worn worn parts
Exhaust blocked Replace
Air filter clogged or dirty Remove the sponge, wash it in water
and shampoo, and then soak it in a
50% mixture of fuel and oil
(recommended: Selenia Air Filter
Oil). Squeeze the sponge without
twisting, allow it to drip and then
replace it
Automatic choke failure Check the mechanical sliding and the
electrical connection and ensure that
Poor power is supplied. Replace if
necessary
performance
Clutch slipping Check and if necessary replace the
clutch assembly and/or the clutch
drum housing
Automatic transmission faulty Check correct pulley sliding and
rollers. Replace any faulty
components and lubricate the
movable driven pulley guide with
Montblanc Molybdenum Grease
Worn driving belt Replace
Low compression: piston rings, Replace any worn parts
cylinder, valves and valve seats
worn
Engine oil level exceeding MAX Find out the cause and adjust the oil
mark level
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8.1.2 Rear Wheel Spins at Idle
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Idle speed too high Adjust the engine idle speed and, if
Rear wheel spins necessary, the CO concentration
at idle
Faulty clutch Check clutch springs/weights
8.1.3 Rich Mixture
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Calibrated air holes on Remove, wash in solvent and dry
carburetor clogged or with compressed air.
obstructed
Float valve faulty Check the proper sliding of the float
and the operation of the valve.
Level in float bowl too high Restore the level in the float chamber
by bending the fuel inlet needle
thrust blade on the float so that the
float is parallel to the chamber
surface when the carburetor is in an
upside-down position.
Rich mixture
Automatic choke remains Check the correct sliding of the
activated mechanical component and the
electrical connection and ensure that
power is supplied. If necessary
replace.
Air filter clogged or dirty Remove the sponge, wash it in water
and shampoo, and then soak it in a
50% mixture of fuel and oil
(recommended: Selenia Air Filter
Oil). Squeeze the sponge without
twisting, allow it to drip and then
replace it.
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8.1.4 Weak Mixture
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Carburetor jets clogged Remove, wash in solvent and dry
with compressed air.
Float valve faulty Check the proper sliding of the float
and the operation of the valve.
Level in float bowl too low Restore the level in the float bowl
bending the fuel inlet needle thrust
blade on the float so that the float is
Weak mixture parallel to the chamber surface when
the carburetor is in an up-side down
position.
Tank breather clogged Restore proper tank aeration.
Feed pipes choked or throttle Restore proper fuel flow.
Intake manifold cracked or Replace the intake connection and
clamps poorly tightened check for any abnormal air leakage.
8.1.5 Low Compression
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Incorrect valve adjustment Adjust valve clearance
Valves overheated Remove the cylinder head and the
valves, then grind or replace the
Low valves
compression
Valve seat deformed/worn Replace the head assembly
Cylinder worn; piston rings Replace cylinder-piston assembly or
worn or broken piston rings
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8.1.6 Starting Problems
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Flat battery Check the battery charge level. If the
battery shows any sign of sulphation,
replace it with a new one
Carburetor dirty or fuel pump Remove, wash with solvent and dry
faulty with compressed air, or replace
Spark plug faulty or spark Replace the spark plug or check the
advance incorrect ignition circuit components
Air filter clogged or dirty Remove the sponge, wash it in water
and shampoo, and then soak it in a
50% mixture of fuel and oil
(recommended: Selenia Air Filter
Oil). Squeeze the sponge without
twisting, allow it to drip and then
replace it
Automatic choke failure Check the mechanical sliding and the
electrical connection and ensure that
Starting power is supplied. Replace if
problems necessary
Engine flooded Open the throttle wide and try to
start the engine. If the engine does
not start, remove the spark plug, dry
it and, before replacing it, crank the
engine to expel the excess of fuel,
keeping the cap connected to the
spark plug and the latter to earth. If
the fuel has run out, refuel and then
start the engine
Incorrect valve seal or wrong Inspect the head and/or set the
valve adjustment correct clearance
Starting speed too low or Check starter motor, starting system
starting system and motor and torque limiter
faulty
Altered fuel characteristics Drain worn fuel and refuel
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8.1.7 Excessive Oil Consumption/Excessive Smoke from Exhaust
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Piston rings worn or broken or Replace cylinder-piston assembly or
improperly fitted piston rings
Excessive oil Oil leaks from joints or gaskets Check and replace the gaskets or
consumption/ex restore the joint seal
cessive smoke
from exhaust Oil retainer worn Replace valve oil retainer
Valve guides worn Check and, if necessary, replace the
head assembly
8.1.8 Insufficient Lubrication Pressure
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Oil level too low Restore to the required level by
topping up with fresh oil
(recommended oil: Selenia HI
Scooter 4 Tech)
Insufficient Oil filter excessively dirty Replace the cartridge filter
lubrication
pressure Oil pump play excessive Perform dimensional checks on the oil
pump components
By-pass re mains open. Check the by-pass and replace if
required. Carefully clean the by-pass
area
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8.1.9 Engine Tends to Cut Out at Full Throttle
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Main jet dirty; lean carburetion Wash the jet in solvent and dry with
compressed air
Water in carburetor Empty the float chamber by using the
drain screw
Float level incorrect Restore the level in the float chamber
Engine tends to
by bending the fuel inlet needle
cut out at full
thrust blade on the float so that the
throttle
float is parallel to the chamber
surface when the carburetor is in an
up-side down position
Fuel supply circuit faulty Check and, if necessary, replace the
fuel pump. Check the vacuum intake
and the duct seal
8.1.10 Engine Tends to Stop at Idle
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Idling jet dirty Wash in solvent and dry with
compressed air
Choke device remains activated Check: electrical connections, circuit
continuity, mechanical sliding and
power supply; replace if required
Spark plug faulty or spark Replace the spark plug or check the
advance incorrect ignition circuit components
Engine tends to Compression end pressure too Check thermal unit seals and replace
stop at idle low worn components
Idle adjustment incorrect Adjust using a rev counter
Cut-off device faulty Check the operation of the valve,
membrane and spring; check if the
air adjusters and the sponge filter are
clean
Incorrect timing Restore correct timing and check
timing system components
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8.1.11 Excessive Fuel Consumption
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Air filter clogged or dirty Remove the sponge, wash it in water
and shampoo, and then soak it in a
50% mixture of fuel and oil
(recommended: Selenia Air Filter
Oil). Squeeze the sponge without
twisting, allow it to drip and then
replace it.
Automatic choke device faulty Check electrical connections, circuit
continuity, mechanical sliding, and
power supply
Excessive fuel
consumption Fuel pump faulty Check vacuum duct seal
Jets loose Check that the main and idling jets
are securely seated
Float level Restore the level in the float chamber
by bending the fuel inlet needle
thrust blade on the float so that the
float is parallel to the chamber
surface when the carburetor is in an
up-side down position
8.2 Transmission and Brakes
8.2.1 Irregular Clutch Operation or Grapping
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Faulty clutch Check that the clutch weights are
free from grease
Check that the contact surface of the
Clutch irregular
clutch weights with the drum housing
operation or
grapping is mainly at the centre and equivalent
for the three weights
Check that the drum housing exhibits
no abnormal wear or scratches
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8.2.2 Poor Braking Performance
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Pads or disk excessively worn; Check the pads wear;
brake fluid quantity insufficient MIN allowable dimension:
or hydraulic system faulty Brake pads wear 0.06 in
(1.5 mm)
Ensure that the brake disks are not
worn, scratched or deformed
Check the brake fluid level in the
pumps and, if necessary, replace the
brake fluid
Check that there is no air in the
Poor braking circuit and bleed as necessary
performance
Check that the front brake caliper
moves correctly along the front disk
axis
Brake disk loose or distorted Check the tightening of the brake
disk screws. Using a comparator and
with the wheel mounted onto the
vehicle, measure the disk’s axial
deviation
Brake fluid leakage from the Replace faulty flexible connections,
hydraulic system piston, or brake pump gaskets as
necessary
8.2.3 Brakes Overheating
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Defective piston sliding Check caliper and replace any
damaged parts
Brake disk loose or distorted Check the tightening of the brake
disk screws. Using a comparator and
with the wheel mounted onto the
Brakes vehicle, measure the disk’s axial
overheating deviation
Pump compensation holes Clean thoroughly and blow with
clogged compressed air
Rubber gaskets swollen or Replace gaskets
sealed
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8.3 Electrical System
8.3.1 Battery
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
The battery requires regular maintenance.
If the vehicle is not used for long periods (1 month or more), the battery
Battery must be charged from time to time. Over a period of disuse of 3 months,
the battery will discharge completely. When installing the battery, make
sure the black ground lead is connected to the negative terminal and the
red lead to the positive terminal
8.3.2 Turn Signal Lights Not Working
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Electronic control unit faulty With the ignition switch set to «ON»,
jumper contacts 1 (Blue-Black) and 5
(Red-Blue) on the electronic control
Turn signal
unit connector. If turn indicators do
lights not
working not light up and stay lit when the
related switch is operated, replace
the regulator, otherwise check the
wiring and the switch
8.4 Steering Controls and Suspension
8.4.1 Excessive Steering Stiffness
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Irregular tightening Check the tightening of the upper
and lower ring nuts. If steering
Excessive
rotation is still uneven, check the
steering
stiffness bearing ball rolling seats. Replace if
the seats appear to be recessed or if
the balls are flattened
8.4.2 Excessive Steering Play
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Excessive Irregular tightening. As above
steering play
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8.4.3 Noisy Suspension
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Anomalies in the suspension If the front suspension is noisy, check
system the operation of the front shock
absorber, the condition of the ball
bearings and of the related locknuts,
Noisy the rubber stops and the sliding
bushes
suspension
Also check the tightening torques of
the wheel hub, the brake caliper, the
disk and the shock absorber on the
hub and steering column connections
8.4.4 Suspension Oil Leaking
Symptom Possible Cause Operation
Faulty seal Replace the shock absorber
Suspension oil
leaking Check the wear of the steering caps
and adjusters
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9 Electrical System
1 Front left-hand side turn signal light
(with 2 bulbs)
2 Rear brake light switch
3 Headlight switch
4 Turn signal lights switch
5 Horn button
6 Radio-intercom fitting
7 Saddle opener button
8 Thermostat
9 Electric fan
10 Saddle opening actuator
11 Voltage regulator
12 Rear left-hand side turn signal light
(with bulb)
13 Number plate light (with bulb)
14 Complete tail light (with low beam
bulb and 6 brake light bulbs)
15 Rear right-hand side turn signal light
(with bulb)
16 Fuel level transmitter
17 Engine earth
18 Starter motor
19 Oil pressure sensor
20 Magneto flywheel
21 Automatic choke device
22 Thermostat
23 H.T. coil
24 Starting relay
25 Fuse holder with 2 fuses
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26 Battery 12V 12Ah
27 Anti-theft alarm fitting
28 Immobilizer antenna
29 Key switch
30 Start-up button
31 Horn
32 Front right-hand side turn signal light
(with 2 bulbs)
33 Analogue instrument panel with 9
bulbs, warning lights, fuel reserve
warning light, oil pressure warning
light, upper beam indicator, RH turn
signal light indicator, LH turn signal
light indicator, LED for immobilizer, 3
bulbs for instrument illumination
34 Relay switch
35 Complete right or left-hand
asymmetric headlight with bulb for
headlight and 1 bulb for position
36 Fuse holder box
37 Anti-theft alarm fitting
38 Electronic ignition device (CDI)
39 Engine stop deviator
40 L.H. lever brake light switch
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9.1 Electrical Diagrams
9.1.1 Ignition Section
1 Pick-up 5 Spark plug
2 Flywheel magneto 6 H.T. coil
3 15A Fuse (No. 7) 7 Voltage regulator
4 Electronic ignition device (CDI) 8 12V-12Ah Battery
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9.1.2 Turn Signal Lights, Horn, Services and Accessory Pre-Wiring
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1 Direction indicators 12V-2W 12 Ignition switch contact
No. 4 Front turn signal light bulbs
2 13 Ignition switch contact
12V-5W
No. 2 Rear turn signal light bulbs
3 14 7.5A Fuse
12V-10W
4 Horn 12V 15 Anti-theft alarm pre-wiring
5 Saddle opening button 16 Radio-intercom pre-wiring
6 Horn button 17 10A Fuse
7 Turn signal lights switch 18 Immobilizer LED
8 Saddle opening actuator 19 Battery (12V-12Ah)
9 7.5A Fuse 20 15A Fuse
10 7.5A Fuse 21 Immobilizer antenna
11 Anti-theft alarm pre-wiring 22 Electronic ignition device (CDI)
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9.1.3 Level Indicators and Safety Switches
1 Cooling fluid temperature indicator 7 Oil pressure sensor
2 Fuel level indicator 8 Fuse 7.5A
3 Fuel level transmitter 9 Key switch contacts
4 Thermostat 10 Battery 12V-12Ah
5 Fuel indicator 12V–1.2W 11 Fuse 15A
6 Oil pressure indicator 12V–1.2W 12 Electronic ignition device
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9.1.4 Battery Recharge and Starting Section
1 Engine stop deviator 8 No. 8 bulbs for stop light 12V–2.3W
2 Key switch contacts 9 Fuse 15A
3 Fuse 5A 10 Battery 12V / 12Ah
4 Stop buttons 11 Electronic ignition device
5 Start-up button 12 Voltage regulator
6 Starter motor 13 Magneto flywheel
7 Starting relay 14 Pick-up
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9.1.5 Headlight and Automatic Choke Section
1 Starting relay 7 Fuse 8A
2 Light switch 8 Key switch contacts
Dipped beam/upper bulb 12V-
3 9 Automatic starter
55/60W
4 Upper beam indicator 12V–1.2W 10 Fuse 15A
No. 3 bulbs for instrument lighting +
5 11 Battery 12V-12Ah
side/taillights indicator 12V-2W
No. 3 number plate position bulbs
6 12 Electronic ignition device
12V-5W
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9.2 Electrical Equipment
9.2.1 Electronic Ignition (Immobilizer System)
The electronic ignition system is DC-fed and
is equipped with an immobilizer antitheft
system built into the electronic control unit.
The ignition system consists of:
- Electronic control unit (CDI)
- Immobilizer antenna
- Master and service key with built-in
transponder
1 = Un-programmed control unit
- H.T. coil
2 = Programmed control unit
- Diagnostic LED
3 = LED on
4 = LED off
Note: The diagnostic LED also works as a deterring blinker. This function is activated every
time the ignition switch is turned to the «OFF» position, or the emergency cut-off switch is
set to «OFF». It remains activated for 48 hours in order not to affect the battery charge.
When the ignition switch is turned to the «ON» position the deterring blinker function is
deactivated. Subsequently, a flash confirms the switching to the «ON» status.
This duration of the flash depends on the programming of the electronic control unit prog
(see figure above).
If the LED is off and stays off even when the
ignition switch is turned to «ON», check if:
- Battery voltage is present, i.e. the battery
is not flat
- The fuses are in working order; main fuse
15A (no. 7)
If both battery and fuses are working
properly and the deterring LED still remains
off, diskonnect the electronic control unit
connector and follow these steps to check Rs = Red
that power is supplied to the electronic
control unit: Ne = Black
- Ensure that the potential difference
between terminal no. 4 (red/black) and
ground (see figure) is equal to the battery
voltage
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- Check that battery voltage is present
between terminals no. 4 (red/black) and
no. 8 (black), as shown in the figure
Rs = Red
Ne = Black
- Check that battery voltage is present
between terminals no. 5 (green/white) and
no. 8 (black) with the ignition switch
turned to the «ON» position and the
emergency cut-off switch set to «RUN»
(see figure).
If no faults are found, replace the control
unit; otherwise, check the wiring and the
following components:
If no malfunction is found, replace the control
unit and, otherwise check the wiring and the
following components:
Bi = White
- Engine stop relay switch Ve = Green
- Emergency cut-off switch Ne = Black
- Ignition switch contacts
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9.2.2 Un-Coded Electronic Ignition System
When the ignition system is not coded, the engine can be run at a maximum speed of 2,000
rpm. Any attempt to rev up causes the engine to misfire.
To code the system, set the emergency cut-off switch to the «RUN» position and use the
MASTER (brown) and SERVICE (black) keys as follows:
- Insert the MASTER key; turn the ignition switch to the «ON» position for approximately 2
seconds (strictly between 1 and 3 seconds) and then turn it back to the «OFF» position
- Insert all the SERVICE keys available in succession, each time turning the ignition switch
to «ON» for 2 seconds
- Insert the MASTER key again and turn it to «ON» for 2 seconds
Note: The time needed to change keys must not exceed 10 seconds.
Note: A maximum of three SERVICE keys can be programmed within the same coding
session.
It is essential to observe the sequence and time limits as described above. If at any time
during the programming session these are not observed, the procedure will have to be
restarted from the beginning.
Once the control unit has been coded, an unbreakable relation is created between the
control unit and the MASTER key transponder.
This relation allows new SERVICE keys to be
coded in case of loss, replacement, etc. Each
new storing operation cancels the previous
one.
Should the SERVICE keys lose the data stored
in them it is essential to carefully check the
shielding of the high-voltage system:
Standard resistance:
Shielded cap ~5 kO
The use of resistive spark plugs is
recommended (see figure).
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9.2.3 Diagnostic Codes
After the flash that denotes the switching to the «ON» status, the system may output a
number of malfunction codes.
The LED stays initially off for 2 seconds, and then the diagnostic codes are displayed in the
form of 0.5-second flashes.
Once the malfunction code has been displayed, the LED turns on to indicate that ignition is
impossible (see graph below).
2-Flash code
Example – electronic control unit program-
med, transponder absent and/or antenna
malfunctioning.
Ignition disabled – Vehicle immobilized
3-Flash code
1 = LED on
Example - electronic control unit program-
med, aerial in working conditions and 2 = LED off
transponder code unknown. 3 = LED remains lit
Ignition disabled – Vehicle immobilized
9.2.4 2-Flash Diagnostic Code
If the 2-flash diagnostic code is displayed, check if the malfunction persists when the key
(including the MASTER key) is changed. If the anomaly persists with any key, detach the
control unit aerial connector and check the continuity of the antenna by using the
recommended multimeter 020331Y.
Standard resistance:
Immobilizer antenna ~ 7-9 O
If the value is not as specified, replace the antenna.
If no anomaly is found, replace the control unit.
Warning – Before performing the storing procedure on the new control unit, check that no
malfunction code is signaled. This is precaution is needed to avoid wasting a new control
unit.
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9.2.5 3-Flash Diagnostic Code
If the 3-flash diagnostic code is displayed, check if the anomaly persists even after inserting
the MASTER key into the ignition switch.
If the malfunction disappears when the MASTER key is used, proceed to a new coding of the
SERVICE (black) keys.
If the anomaly persists, then the MASTER key and the control unit are not matched. In that
case, replace the control unit and proceed to code the keys.
The immobilizer system is in working order when, after turning the ignition switch to «ON»,
a single 0.7-second flash is emitted (see graph below).
In that case, ignition is possible.
Example – electronic control unit
programmed, transponder present key
programmed and aerial in working order.
Ignition enabled
(standard operating conditions)
1 = LED on
2 = LED off
3 = No flashing
4 = LED remains off
9.2.6 Ignition System
Once the immobilizer system has been enabled, it is possible to obtain a spark at the plug
through the H.T. coil and the signals coming from the pick-up.
The basic power supply is represented by the battery. The system is calibrated in such a
way that any voltage drops in the battery are detected by the starting system and is
therefore virtually harmless to the ignition system.
The pick-up is connected to the control unit by a single wire. As a result, the pick-up ground
is connected to the control unit through the frame and the earth wire from the engine.
To avoid hampering the ignition system during the starting process, it is important that the
engine/frame ground connection is as efficient as possible.
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9.2.7 Spark Plug Power Supply Failure
If no power is supplier to the spark plug and the
LED signals that ignition is possible, follow these
steps:
- Run a pick-up check: detach the control unit
connector and check continuity between
terminals no. 2 (green) and no. 8 (black). This
check involves the pick up and its supply:
Standard resistance:
Pick-Up 105-124 O
Ve = Green, Ne = Black
If the circuit is interrupted, repeat the check between the flywheel connector and the engine
ground (see engine manual). If the measured values are not as specified, replace the pick-
up, otherwise repair the wiring.
If, on the other hand, the values are as specified, try replacing the control unit (without
programming it) and ensure that the problem has been solved by checking that a spark is
produced at the plug, then proceed to program the control unit.
H.T. coil primary circuit check
Detach the control unit connector and check
continuity between terminals no. 3 and no. 8 (see
figure).
Standard resistance:
H.T. coil secondary circuit 0.4-0.5O
If the resistance is not as specified, repeat the check
directly on the positive and negative terminals of the
H.T. coil primary circuit. Vi = Purple
If the measured resistance is as specified, proceed by
repairing the wiring or restoring the connections, Ne = Black
otherwise replace the H.T. coil.
H.T. coil secondary circuit check
Disconnect the spark plug cap from the H.T. cable
and measure the resistance between the end of the
H.T. cable and the negative terminal of the H.T. coil
(see figure).
Standard resistance:
H.T. coil secondary circuit ~3,000±300 O
1 = Black cap
If the measured values are not as specified, replace
2 = Green cap
the H.T. coil. To obtain a more accurate diagnosis
proceed to verify the peak voltage using the
multimeter adaptor.
Specific equipment and tools:
Multimeter adaptor 020409Y
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Pick-Up
Detach the control unit connector and connect the
positive terminal to connector no. 2 and the negative
terminal to connector no. 8 (see figure).
Crank the engine by operating the starter motor and
measure the voltage produced by the pick-up.
Standard voltage:
Ve = Green
Pick-up >2V
Ne = Black
If the voltage is not as specified, replace the pick-up.
Note: The output is in DC; hence the multimeter
must be set on DC in order to carry out the
measurements.
H.T. coil
With control unit and H.T. coil normally connected,
measure the voltage of the coil primary circuit during
the starting test using the peak voltage adaptor and
connecting the positive terminal to earth and the
negative terminal to the coil positive connector
Standard voltage:
H.T. coil >100V
Vi = Purple
If the voltage is not as specified, replace the control
Ne = Black
unit.
Note: The positive terminal of the H.T. coil primary
circuit is black, while the negative terminal is green.
9.2.8 Battery Charging System
The battery recharge system consists of a three-phase generator and a permanent-magnet
flywheel. The generator is directly connected to the voltage regulator. The latter is in turn
directly connected to earth and to the battery positive terminal via the 15A protection fuse.
The system is therefore not connected to the ignition switch. The system allows
considerable recharging power, and at low rpm offers a good compromise between supplied
power and idle speed stability. For this reason, it is essential that the slow running speed is
adjusted as specified.
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9.2.9 Checking the Voltage Regulator
With a fully charged battery and all lights off,
measure the voltage at the battery terminals (see
figure) with the engine running at high speed.
Standard voltage:
Voltage regulator <15.2V
If a higher voltage is detected, replace the regulator.
If the voltage is less than 14 V, check the stator and
its wiring.
9.2.10 Stator check
Disconnect the voltage regulator connector and check
for continuity between each one of the three yellow
wires and the other two.
Standard resistance:
Stator 0.7-0.9O
Also check that each yellow wire is insulated from
earth.
If any of the measured values are not as specified,
repeat the check directly on the stator. If incorrect
values are still found, replace the stator, otherwise
repair the wiring.
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9.2.11 Checking the Regulator
Connect the induction nippers of an ammeter to the
positive cable of the voltage regulator. Measure the
battery voltage and, after turning the lights on
without starting the engine, wait until voltage reading
settles at about 12V. Start the engine and measure
the current supplied by the system with the lights on
and the engine running at high speed.
If the supplied current is less than 10A, repeat the
test using a new regulator and/or stator.
Rs = Red, Ne = Black
9.2.12 Checking the Automatic Choke Section
For information on how to carry out the functional
and resistive check of the component, refer the
engine section of this manual. Regarding the
automatic choke device power supply, keep the
system connector attached and check that battery
voltage is present between the two terminals, while
the engine is running (see figure).
If there is no voltage, connect the multimeter
negative terminal to ground and the positive terminal
to the orange wire on the automatic choke devic e.
With the ignition switch turned onto the «ON»
position, check for the presence of battery voltage. If
no voltage is detected, check the wiring connected
with the ignition switch and the two fuses 15A (no.
8).
If voltage is present, repeat the check from the
ignition control unit connector.
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After disconnecting the choke device, start the engine
and keep it idling. Check for the presence of voltage
by connecting the multimeter positive terminal to the
terminal no. 5 (light blue) and its negative terminal to
terminal no. 7 (white/black) (see figure).
If no voltage is detected, replace the control unit
after verifying the integrity of the fuses, otherwise
check the wiring between the choke and the
electronic control unit, and if necessary proceed by
replacing the choke device.
Bi/Ne = White/Black
Az = Light blue
9.2.13 Turn Signal Lights Fail to Operate
If the turn signal lights fail to operate, proceed as
follows:
- Detach the control unit connector and check for
potential difference at terminal no. 4 (red/black)
with respect to ground (p.d. must be equal to
battery voltage).
- Check that the same p.d. (battery voltage) is
present between terminals no. 4 and no. 8 (black).
- Repeat the same check between terminals no. 5
(light blue) and no. 8 (black) with the ignition
Rs/Ne = Red/Black
switch turned to the «ON» position, and the
emergency cut -off switch in the «RUN» position. Ne = Black
If no voltage is detected, check the wiring, the
connections and the integrity of the main 15A fuse;
otherwise proceed as follows:
- Jumper terminals no. 1 (black/blue) and no. 4
(red/black) as shown in the figure. Acting on the
turn signal switch, ensure that the turn signal
lights come on
Ne/Bl = Black/Blue
- If so, the control the control unit is defective and
must be replaced. Otherwise check the wiring Rs/Ne = Red/Black
between the control unit and the turn signal
switch, and then repeat the test
- If the wiring is intact and the turn signal lights still
fail to operate correctly, replace the turn signal
switch.
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9.2.14 Fuses
The electrical equipment is protected by:
1. Six fuses (marked as «A» in the picture on the
right) located inside the glove-box, on the left
hand-side
2. One 15A fuse («B» in the picture below) placed
underneath the helmet compartment bucket
Warning - Before replacing a blown fuse, always
trace and eliminate the fault that caused the blowing.
Never try to replace a fuse using different material
(e.g. a piece of electric wire) or a fuse having greater
amperage than prescribed.
The following table shows the positions and
specifications of the fuses installed on the vehicle.
Fuse no. Amperage Protected circuits
Taillight bulb, number plate bulb, instrument lighting and
1 5A
instrument light indicator.
2 5A Brake-light bulb, starting relay switch inhibitor
Radio-intercom pre-wiring, antitheft alarm pre-wiring,
3 7.5A cooling liquid temperature indicator, fuel reserve indicator,
oil pressure warning light and fuel reserve warning light
4 7.5A Horn
Radio-intercom pre-wiring, antitheft alarm pre-wiring,
5 7.5A
diagnostic LED
Electric saddle opener, headlight (high/low beam), full
6 10A
headlight indication light
7 15A General
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9.2.15 Instrument Panel
A = Digital clock with calendar
B = Coolant temperature
C = RH direction indicator switch
D = Fuel level indicator
E = Light indicator
F = Upper beam indicator
G = Low oil pressure indicator
H = Fuel reserve indicator
I = Speedometer
L = Odome ter
M = Left turn signal indicator
N = Immobilizer LED
‘A’ connector ‘B’ connector
1- Fuel level indicator signal 1- Ground (-)
2- Upper beam indicator 2- LH turn signal indicator
3- Oil indicator 3- RH turn signal indicator
4- Power supply (+) 4- Temperature signal
5- Reserve light
6- Lighting
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9.2.16 Battery
9.2.16.1 Preparing the Battery
- Remove the cap from the bleeder, shown in the
figure, and then carefully pour sulphuric acid into
each element.
Note: the acid must have a density of 78.7
lbs·ft - 3 (1,260 kg·m- 3), equivalent to 30 BE at a
minimum temperature of 59°F (15°C) until the
upper level is reached.
- Let the battery rest at least 2 hours, and then
restore the level by pouring additional sulphuric
acid as required.
- Recharge the battery using the recommended
battery charger 020333Y (single) or 020334Y
(multiple) at an intensity of about 1/10 of the
battery’s nominal capacity and until the acid
density is about 79.3 lbs·ft - 3 (1,270 kg·m- 3),
corresponding to 31 BE and such values become
steady.
- After charging, level the acid (adding distilled
water). Close and clean carefully.
- After performing the above operations, install
the battery on the vehicle following the steps
described in “Battery recharge” section of this
manual.
9.2.16.2 Checking the Electrolyte Level
The electrolyte level must be checked frequently and must reach the upper mark. If the
level is too low, it can be restored only by using distilled water. If water toppings are
required too often, check the vehicle electrical system as this inconvenient is usually a
symptom that the battery is working over-charged and is subject to quick wear.
9.2.16.3 Checking the Electrolyte Density
After restoring the electrolyte level, check its density by using the density gauge.
When the battery is charged, density should be equal to 30÷32 BE, corresponding to a
specific weight of 78.7-79.9 lbs·ft - 3 (12.4-12.6 kN·m- 3) at a minimum temperature of 59°F
(15° C).
If density is below 20 BE, the battery is fully discharged and it is therefore necessary to
recharge it.
If the vehicle is not used for a certain period (1 month or more), the battery must be
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periodically recharged. Within a period of inactivity of approximately tree months, at
standard atmospheric conditions, the battery should be completely discharged. When
reinstalling the battery on the vehicle, pay attention not to invert the connections,
considering that the ground wire (black and marked with a (-) sign) must be connected to
the negative terminal, whereas the two red wires, marked as (+), must be connected to the
positive terminal.
9.2.16.4 Checking the Battery Charge Level
Warning – Before recharging the battery, remove the plugs from each element. Keep
sparks and free flames away from the battery while recharging.
Remove the battery from the vehicle by disconnecting the negative terminal first.
Normal bench charging must be performed using the recommended battery charger
020333Y (single) or 020334Y (multiple), setting the battery charge selector to the type of
battery that requires recharging (i.e., at a current equal to 1/10 of the battery normal
capacity). Connections to the power supply source must be implemented by connecting the
corresponding poles (+ to + and - to -).
9.2.16.5 Cleaning the Battery
Keep the battery clean, especially the top; coat the terminals with Vaseline.
Warning – Never use fuses having a greater capacity than the recommended value. The
use of a fuse of unsuitable capacity may result in serious damages to the whole vehicle or
even culminate in a fire.
Warning – Drinking water contains mineral salts that can be extremely harmful to the
battery: only use distilled water.
Warning – To ensure maximum performance the battery must be charged before using the
vehicle. Insufficient battery charge or low electrolyte level, when first used, will result in
premature battery failure.
9.2.16.6 Installing the Battery
- Remove the battery cover by removing the four
screws securing the central cover to the footrest,
as shown in the picture.
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- Remove the battery fixing clamp.
- Use the hole shown in the figure to insert the
battery bleed tube
- Place the battery onto the tray as shown in the
figure, so to attach the wires to the terminals.
Note: In order to correctly connect the wires to the
battery terminals, pay attention when placing the
battery onto the tray and ensure that there are no
interferences between the wires and the frame (due
to a possible misplacement of the battery) since
these might seriously affect the wiring integrity
(see sketch).
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- With the aid of a screwdriver fix the wires to the
battery terminals placing the supplied beveled
washer between the screw head and the wire
terminal.
Note: Do not use a wrench to tighten the screws.
- Once the wires are securely fastened, proceed by
correctly placing the battery onto the tray.
- Replace the battery fixing clamp.
- Replace the battery cover.
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10 Engine
10.1 Disassembling the Engine from the Frame
Caution – The following operations must be
performed with the engine cold.
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the helmet compartment.
- Remove the side fairings.
- Disassemble the silencer.
- Release the three screws fixing the air filter to
the crankcase.
- Remove the clip from the blow-by pipe
- Disconnect the carburetor bellows. Then remove
the air filter.
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- Remove the air intake bellows to the
transmission compartment by releasing the two
screws shown in the figure and removing the
plastic clip.
- Remove the cooling fluid inlet piping from the
pump as shown in the figure.
- Remove the fuel tap vac uum pipe from the «T»
union shown in the figure.
- Remove the fuel feeding pipe from the
carburetor.
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- Remove the cooling fluid outlet piping from the
engine.
- Also remove the bleeding piping shown in the
figure.
- Remove the spark plug cap.
- Remove the cooling fluid temperature sensor
connector shown in the figure.
- Remove the gas control cable from the
carburetor by releasing the nut shown in the
figure.
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- Remove the automatic connector from the
system located inside the protective sheath
shown in the figure.
- Remove the positive and negative wirings from
the starter motor as shown in the figure.
- Remove the flywheel wiring connector shown in
the figure.
- Remove the cable from the flywheel cover retain
clip.
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- Remove the rear shock absorbers.
- Remove the hydraulic piping from the rear brake
caliper by loosening the screw shown in the
figure. Then, remove the pipe attachments to
the engine crankcase shown in the figure.
- Suitably support the vehicle by the jack. Remove
the engine–swing arm assembly by loosening the
nut and the pin head shown in the figure.
- The engine can now be removed.
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10.2 Removing the Silencer
- Loosen the two fasteners of the exhaust
manifold from the head.
- Loosen the 3 screws fixing the silencer to the
supporting arm.
- Remove the complete silencer.
10.3 Refitting the Engine onto the Frame
- Perform the operations for removal in the reverse order according to the tightening
torques indicated in Chapter "Characteristics".
Warning – Be very careful in ensuring that the throttle cable is in the proper position.
- Check that with valve in abutment against the register there is a small clearance.
- Check the engine oil level and top up using the recommended brand, if required.
- Fill the cooling circuit.
- Check that accelerator and electric devices are in good working order.
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10.4 Removing the Rocker Cover
- Remove the five rocker cover screws and the
pipe shown in the figure, after removing the
relative strip; remove the tappet cover with
decanter and automatic valve.
- Remove the sealing gasket.
- Check that the unidirectional valve is in good
working order.
10.5 Refitting the Rocker Cover
Perform the operations for removal in the reverse
order and tighten the five screws at the proper
torque.
Note: Install a new O-ring gasket on the tappet
cover.
Tightening torque:
Rocker cover screws 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
10.6 Checking the Compression
- Remove the spark plug cap with cold engine.
- Remove the ignition spark plug.
- Fit a compression test gauge into the spark plug seat using a 10mm spark plug joint and
tighten to the prescribed torque.
- Let the engine run by the starter and with the carburetor in fully open position as long as
the gauge value is steady. If pressure is higher than 9 bar, remove the tool and proceed
in the reverse order of removal.
If the pressure is below the indicated values, check the engine test speed; if the engine
speed is less than 450 rpm, check the starting system; if the value is within the prescribed
limits or slightly higher, check the timing. If no faults are detected:
- Ensure that the cylinder base gasket was properly selected.
- Check the sealing on the cylinder-piston assembly (piston rings-valves).
Tightening torque:
Spark plug 8.8-10.3 lbs·ft (12-14 N·m)
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10.7 Transmission
10.7.1 Removing the Transmission Cover
Note: To remove the transmission cover it is
necessary to remove the plastic cover first, using a
screwdriver on the special guides. Using the clutch
drum lock wrench shown in the figure, remove the
driven pulley axle locking nut and washer.
Specific equipment and tools:
Driven pulley locking wrench 020423Y
- Remove engine oil dipstick.
- Remove the 10 screws from the transmission
cover.
- Remove the transmission cover.
Note: If this operation is performed without
dismantling the engine from the vehicle, it is
necessary to remove the transmission cooling air
sleeve first.
10.7.2 Removing the Fan Case
- Remove the 5 screws shown in the figure.
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10.7.3 Removing the Transmission Cooling Intake
- To remove the transmission cover intake, it is
sufficient to remove the 2 screws indicated in the
figure.
10.7.4 Removing the Driven Pulley Shaft Bearing
- Remove the snap ring from the inside of the
transmission cover.
- Remove the bearing from the case, using the
recommended tools listed below.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
Adapter (28×30mm) 020375Y
15mm Guide 020412Y
10.7.5 Fitting the Driven Pulley Shaft Bearing
- Heat the inside of the transmission cover in
order to prevent the paint on the outer surface.
- Install the bearing onto its seat.
- Replace the snap ring.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
Adapter (32×35mm) 020357Y
15mm Guide 020412Y
Warning – Ensure to use an appropriate rest surface to avoid damaging the transmission
cover.
Warning – Always replace the bearing when reassembling the component.
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10.7.6 Removing the Belt Support Roller
- Check that the roller is free from wear and that
it rotates freely.
- Remove the special fastening screw and the
roller, complete with bearing.
- Remove the elastic ring and eject the bearing
using the following tools.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
25mm Guide 020364Y
10.7.7 Refitting the Belt Support Roller
- Heat the roller and install the bearing using the
following tools.
Specific equipment and tools:
Heat gun 020151Y
Heat gun support 020364Y
Handle 020376Y
Adapter (32×35mm) 020357Y
10mm Guide 020455Y
- Reposition the roller using the specific screw.
- Tighten at the prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Anti-flapping roller 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
- Replace the intake with the O-ring, pan sealing
gasket and fan case.
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10.7.8 Removing the Driving Pulley
- With the pulley stop wrench correctly inserted
into the apposite slits, remove the lock nut.
Note: The nut has an ‘in-built’ spring washer.
Specific equipment and tools:
Driving pulley stop wrench 020442Y
- Remove the starting rim assembly.
- Remove the driving fixed half-pulley, together
with the O-ring and the steel washer on the
bushing.
- Remove the belt and extract the moving half-
pulley with the relevant bushing
Note: The rollers are freely placed onto the slides
inside the pulley. Ensure that they don’t fall when
the pulley is being removed.
- Remove the roller contrast plate with the
relevant guide sliding blocks
10.7.9 Removing the Driven Pulley
- Remove the spacer, the clutch drum and the
entire driven pulley assembly.
Note: This operation may be performed without
removing the driving pulley assembly.
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10.7.10 Inspecting the Clutch Drum
- Check that the clutch drum is not worn or
damaged.
- Measure the internal diameter, as shown in the
figure.
Standard dimension:
Clutch drum Ø 5.283 in
(134.2 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Clutch drum Ø 5.295 in
(134.5 mm)
10.7.11 Checking the Clutch Drum Surface Eccentricity
- Install the drum on a driven pulley shaft using
two bearings (internal diameter 15 and 17mm).
- Use the original spacer nut to lock the
drum/shaft assembly.
- Place the drum/shaft assembly on the support
(020074Y) to check the driving shaft alignment.
- Using a feeler pin comparator and the magnetic
base, measure the drum eccentricity.
- Repeat the measurement on three surfaces
(central, internal and external).
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10.7.12 Removing the Clutch
- Prepare the driven pulley spring compressor
(020444Y) with the medium length pins in
position «C» tightened on the inside of the tool.
- Introduce the adapter ring no. 11 with the
chamfering facing the inside of the tool.
- Install the driven pulley assembly onto the tool
inserting the three pins into the ventilation holes
on the mass holding support.
- Make sure that the clutch is perfectly inserted
into the adapter ring before proceeding to
release and tighten the clutch nut.
- Using the specific 46×55mm wrench remove the
clutch fixing nut.
- Separate the components of the driven pulley
(clutch and spring with plastic rest).
Specific equipment and tools:
Driven pulley spring compressor 020444Y
Wrench (46×55mm) 020444Y009
Adapter ring 020444Y011
Caution – The toll must be tightly fixed in the vice
and the central screw must be moved in abutment
with the tool. An excessive torque may deform the
specific tool.
10.7.13 Disassembling the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley Bearings
- Check for any noise and/or signs of wear. If the
bearings are worn or noisy, replace them.
- Remove the retaining ring using two flat
screwdrivers.
- Use a suitable wooden surface to support the
bushing from the threaded side.
- Using a pin and a mallet, remove the bearing, as
shown in the figure.
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- Rotate the pulley assembly up-side-down, as
shown in the figure, and ensure the pulley is
suitably supported.
- Remove the roller bearing using the modular
punch.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
Adapter (24mm) 020456Y
Guide (20mm) 020363Y
Bell (no. 35) 001467Y035
10.7.14 Checking the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley
- Measure the external diameter of the bushing;
see figure.
Standard dimension:
Bushing diameter ∅ 1.598 in
(40.985mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Bushing diameter ∅ 1.597 in
(40.960mm)
- Ensure that the working surface (in contact with
the belt) is free from abnormal wear.
- Check the riveting.
- Check the planarity of the working surface.
Wear limit:
Fixed Driven pulley planarity 0.0012 in
(0.03mm)
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10.7.15 Checking the Moving Driven Half-Pulley
- Remove the two inner sealing rings and the two
O-rings.
- Measure the internal diameter of the bushing, as
shown in the figure.
Standard dimension:
Bushing diameter ∅ 1.599-1.600 in
(41.000-41.035mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Bushing diameter ∅ 1.602 in
(41.080mm)
- Ensure that the working surface (in contact with
the belt) is free from abnormal wear.
- Check the riveting.
- Check the planarity of the working surface.
Wear limit:
Fixed Driven pulley planarity 0.0012 in
(0.03mm)
10.7.16 Fitting the Fixed Driven Half-Pulley Bearings
- Ensure the pulley bushing is suitably supported
from the threaded side on a wooden surface.
- Install the new roller casing as shown in the
figure, ensuring that the inscription is facing
outwards.
Specific equipment and tools:
Punch for roller casing 020424Y
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- To install the new ball bearing, proceed as
shown in the figure using the modular punch.
Note: Install the bearing
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
1.1×1.2 in. (28×30mm) adapter 020375Y
10.7.17 Refitting the Driven Pulley
Note: Before proceeding with the assembly ensure
the working surface is in good conditions, and
shows no signs of abnormal or wear, as described
in the previous section.
- Insert the new oil seals and O-rings on the
moving half-pulley.
- Carefully grease the O-ring (marked as «A» in
the figure).
- Install the half-pulley on the bushing using the
specific tool.
Specific equipment and tools:
Protective sheath 020263Y
- Ensure that the pins and the collar are not worn
and then refit them, using the apposite slits.
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- Using a curved-spout grease dispenser, lubricate
the driven pulley assembly with approximately
¼ oz. (7 g) of TUTELA MRM2 grease. Apply
grease to one of the holes in the bushing until it
comes out through the hole on the opposite side.
Note: This operation is necessary to avoid the
presence of grease beyond the O-rings.
Recommended grease:
TUTELA MRM2
Note: The lubrication of the servo-system can be carried either with the bearings installed or
during their replacement. It may be easier to proceed with the lubrication during overhaul.
10.7.18 Checking the Moving Driven Half-Pulley Spring
- Measure the length of the moving driven half-
pulley spring, as shown in the figure.
Note: The spring must be unloaded.
Standard dimension:
Spring length 4.84 in
(123mm )
Min. allowable dimension:
Spring length 4.65 in
(118mm)
10.7.19 Checking the Drive Belt
- Ensure the drive belt shows no external signs of
damage, i.e. no cracks.
- Measure the belt width as shown in the figure.
Standard dimension:
Belt width 0.8071±0.0078 in
(20.50±0.20 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Belt width 0.7600 in
(19.5 mm)
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Note: During the wear check (to be performed
according to the maintenance table shown at pp.
57-58 of this manual), it is necessary to thoroughly
check the bottom of the tooth groove for cracks
(see example «A» shown in figure). If cracks are
detected the belt must be replaced. Also ensure
that no deformations are present.
10.7.20 Checking the Clutch Friction Material
- Measure the thickness of the clutch shoes friction
material.
Min. allowable dimension:
Clutch shoe thickness 0.04 in
(1 mm)
Note: Ensure that the clutch shoes bear no traces
of lubricant. If they do, check the seal of the driven
pulley assembly.
Note: Upon the running-in period, the clutch shoes
must have a central contact surface and must not
differ from one another, otherwise the clutch may
slip.
Warning – Do not use a tool to open the shoes as
this may affect the return spring load.
10.7.21 Fitting the Clutch
- Place the driven pulley onto the compressor tool,
as shown in the figure, so that the control screw
is in a vertical position.
- Prepare the tool with the medium length pins
screwed in position «C» on the inside.
- Introduce the adapter ring no. 11 with the
chamfering facing upwards.
- Insert the clutch on the adapter ring.
- Lubricate the end of the spring that abuts
against the servo-system closing collar.
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Note: An excessive amount could impair the clutch
functions.
- Insert the spring with relevant plastic support in
contact with the clutch.
- Insert the driving belt into the pulley unit
according to their direction of rotation.
- Insert the pulley unit with the belt into the tool.
- Slightly pre-load the spring.
- Make sure that the clutch is perfectly inserted
10.7.22 Checking the Moving Driving Half-Pulley
Check that the bearing shown in the figure is not
worn and measure the internal diameter.
Standard dimension:
Internal bearing diameter ∅ 1.0140-1.0148 in
(26.000-26.021 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Internal bearing diameter ∅ 1.0283 in
(26.12 mm)
Warning - Do not lubricate or clean the bushes.
- Measure the pulley sliding bushing external
diameter shown in the figure.
Standard dimension:
Bushing external diameter Ø 1.0220-1.0228 in
(25.959-25.980 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Bushing external diameter Ø 1.0217 in
(25.950 mm)
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- Check that the rollers are not damaged or worn.
Standard dimension: Ø 0.807-0.815 in
Roller diameter (20.5-20.7 mm)
Min. allowable dimension: Ø 0.787 in
Roller diameter (20.0 mm)
- Check that the roller contrast plate slide blocks
are not damaged.
- Check the wear of the rolle r housings and of the
belt contact surfaces on both half-pulleys.
- Check that the fixed driving pulley exhibits no
abnormal wear on the grooved profile and on the
belt contact surface.
- Check that the O-Ring is not deformed.
10.7.23 Fitting the Fixed Driving Half-Pulley and Bushing Assembly
- Pre-assemble the mobile half-pulley with the
roller contrast plate, placing the rollers in the
specific slits with the larger matching surface in
contact with the pulley according to the direction
of rotation. Check that the O- Ring is not
deformed.
- Check that the roller contact plate exhibits no
anomalies or damages on the grooved profile.
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- Install the group with the bushing on the driving
shaft.
- Install the driven pulley/clutch/belt assembly on
the engine.
10.7.24 Fitting the Moving Half-Pulley Assembly
- Properly reinstall the bendix into its seat, if
removed.
- Install the steel shim in contact with the bushing
and the fixed driving half-pulley with the O.R. on
the external end of the ventilation blades.
- Install the start-up rim assembly with torque
limiter.
- Prevent the half-pulley rotation using the specific
lock wrench.
- Insert the torque limiter on the driving shaft so
as to ensure the alignment of the references
obtained on the start-up rim and on the fixed
driving half-pulley. If this is not possible, choose
the position where the references are closest to
one another.
- Failure to comply with this rule can impair the
cooling fan efficiency.
Warning - It is very important to install the fixed
driving half-pulley with the belt totally free to
prevent a false locking of the driving half-pulley.
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Note: Always replace the nut with a new one upon
any reassembly.
- Turn the engine by hand to obtain a minimum
tension of the belt.
Tightening torque:
Driving pulley screw: 55.3-61.2 lbs·ft
(75-83 N·m)
Specific equipment and tools:
Lock wrench: 020368Y
- The torque limiter is calibrated at 71.7 lbs·ft
(100 N·m).
- The lock wrench works on the starting rim.
- If the torque limiter is worn, it is possible to
detect the fault when locking of the nut on the
driving shaft.
- The torque limiter cannot be overhauled.
- In case of anomalies, replace the start-up rim
with the limiter.
10.7.25 Fitting the Clutch Drum
- Fit the clutch drum and the spacer.
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10.7.26 Fitting the Transmission Cover
- Check that the locating dowels and the oil seal in
the sump are in place.
- Fit the transmission cover and tighten the ten
screws to the specified torque
- Attach the ground cable to the first screw above
the oil sump.
- Fit the oil dipstick
- Fit the steel washer and the driven pulley shaft
nut.
- Apply Loctite Super Rapid 242E thread locking
compound to the threads and tighten the driven
pulley shaft nut to the specified tightening
torque, using the lock wrench specific tool.
- Re-fit the plastic cover.
Specific equipment and tools:
Lock wrench: 020423Y
Tightening torques:
Transmission cover screws: 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
Driven pulley axis: 39.8-44.2 lbs·ft
(54-60 N·m)
10.7.27 Removing the Rear Hub Cover
- Remove the oil drain plug and thus drain the
hub.
- Remove the seven flanged screws shown in the
figure.
- Remove the hub cover and the related gasket.
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10.7.28 Removing the Rear Wheel Axle
- Remove the wheel axle with the related gear.
- Remove the reduction gear.
10.7.29 Checking the Hub Casing Bearings
- Check the condition of the hub casing bearings
(wear, play, noise). If any anomalies are found,
proceed as described below.
- Remove the three 0.585 in (15mm) bearings
(two on the crankcase and one on the hub
cover) using the specific extractor.
Specific equipment and tools:
0.585 in (15mm) Pliers 001467Y013
Bell 001467Y009
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10.7.30 Removing the Wheel Axle Bearing from the Cover
- Remove the Snap ring from the outside of the
hub cover.
- Support the hub cover as shown in the figure.
- Remove the bearings using the specific tools.
Specific equipment and tools:
Column kit 020489Y
Handle 020376Y
1.46 in (37mm) adapter 020477Y
1.18 in (30mm) guide 020483Y
- Using the specific tools, remove the oil seal as
shown in the figure.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
(42×47mm) adapter 020359Y
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10.7.31 Removing the Driven Pulley Shaft
- In order to remove the driven pulley shaft, its
bearing and oil seal, it is necessary to remove
the transmission cover and the clutch assembly
as previously described.
- Pull the driven pulley shaft off the bearing.
- Remove the oil seal from inside the bearing and
expel it on the transmission side taking care no
to damage its seat.
- Remove the Snap ring shown in the figure.
- Using the modular punch, remove the driven
pulley shaft bearing.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
1.10×1.18 in (28×30mm) adapter 020375Y
0.78 in (20mm) guide 020363Y
10.7.32 Checking the Hub Cover
- Ensure that the mating surface is not dented or distorted.
- Check that the bearing housing shows no signs of wear or cracks.
- If any defects are found, replace the hub cover.
10.7.33 Fitting the Hub Casing Bearings
- Heat the engine crankcase and the hub cover
using the specific hot air gun.
Specific equipment and tools:
Hot air gun support 020150Y
Hot air gun 020151Y
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- Install the three 15mm bearings using the
specific tools.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
(42×47mm) adapter 020359Y
0.585 in (15mm) guide 020412Y
Note: The 42mm side of adapter 020359Y must
face the bearing.
Note: Before installing the bearings onto the cover, ensure that this is suitably supported by
means of the recommended column kit.
Specific equipment and tools:
Column kit 020489Y
- Replace the driven pulley axle bearing using the
modular punch as shown in the figure.
Note: If the bearing is of the asymmetric ball
containment type, place it as shown in the figure.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
(42×47mm) adapter 020359Y
0.787 in (20mm) guide 020363Y
- Replace the Snap ring.
Note: To install the bearings onto the engine crankcase it is necessary to ensure that the
crankcase is supported in such a way to allow the bearings to be placed vertically.
10.7.34 Fitting the Wheel Axle Bearing on the Cover
- Place the hub cover on an appropriate wooden
surface.
- Heat the cover using the hot air gun.
- Fit the wheel axle bearing onto the cover using
the specific tools.
Specific equipment and tools:
Hot air gun support 020150Y
Hot air gun 020151Y
Handle 020376Y
2.047×2.165 in (52×55mm) adapter 020360Y
1.181 in (30mm) guide 020483Y
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- Install the Snap ring, as shown in the figure.
- Install the oil seal with the sealing lip facing the
inside of the hub and aligned to the edge of the
seat.
Specific equipment and tools:
Handle 020376Y
2.047×2.165 in (52×55mm) adapter 020360Y
Note: The 2.047 in (52mm) side of adapter
020360Y must face the bearing.
10.7.35 Checking the Hub Shafts
- Ensure that the three shafts exhibit no signs of
wear or deformation, especially at the toothed
surfaces, and at the bearing and oil seal
housings
- Replace any damaged parts.
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10.7.36 Fitting the Hub Gears
- Install the three shafts in the engine crankcase
as shown in the figure.
10.7.37 Fitting the Hub Cover
- Install a new gasket with centering dowels.
- Carefully seal the vent pipe gasket using black
silicone sealant.
- Install the cover ensuring that the breather pipe
is correctly positioned.
- Place the three shorter screws, which are
different in color, and the pipe support plate in
as shown in the figure.
- Position the remaining four screws and then
tighten all the seven screws with the prescribed
torque.
Tightening torques:
Hub cover screws 17.6-19.9 lbs·ft
(24-27 N·m)
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10.8 Flywheel
10.8.1 Removing the Flywheel Cover Assembly
- Remove the two clamps and sleeves shown in
the figure and then drain the cooling system.
- Remove the two clamps fixing the SAS valve
connection sleeve to the drainage pipe.
- Remove the two fastening screws, the secondary
air connection pipe and the relevant copper
gasket.
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Note: If needed, it is possible to remove the
complete flywheel cover by releasing the four
hexagonal-head screws shown in the figure.
- Remove the two screws fixing the SAS valve to
the flywheel cover.
- Remove the SAS valve, complete with the
gasket
- Remove the three screws fixing the SAS valve
support to the flywheel cover as shown in the
figure.
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- Remove the SAS valve support complete with its
gasket
- Remove the external filter shown in the figure.
- Remove the flywheel cover with the two
centering dowels as shown in the figure.
- Remove the inside filter cover shown in the
figure.
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- Remove the inside filter shown in the figure.
- Check that the two internal and external sponge filters are clean and efficient.
- Check that the plastic support for the secondary air box is free from cracks and
deformations.
- Check the integrity of the gasket.
Warning - an impaired seal between secondary air box valve and flywheel cover may cause
an increase of noise.
- Check that the sleeve connecting the secondary air to the head exhibits no cracks or
deformations. Replace them, if necessary.
- Check that the metal duct is free from cracks.
10.8.2 Removing the Flywheel
- Using the adjustable spanner, hold the flywheel
in position; see figure.
Specific tools and equipment:
Adjustable wrench 020565Y
- Loosen and remove the lock nut.
Warning – Using a different adjustable wrench
could damage the stator coils.
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- Using the specific extractor, remove the
flywheel.
Specific tools and equipment:
Flywheel extractor 008564Y
10.8.3 Removing the Stator
- Removing the electric terminal of the low oil
pressure switch.
- Remove the two pick-up screws (indicated by
two black arrows in the figure), the wiring clip
screw and the two stator fixing screws (white
arrows).
- Remove the stator and the related wiring.
10.8.4 Checking the Stator
- Using a multimeter, check for continuity between
connections 5-3 and 5-1.
- Check ground insulation on the three stator
phases: 5-ground, 3-ground, 1-ground.
Standard resistance:
For each phase 0.5-1.0 O
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10.8.5 Checking the Low Oil Pressure Switch
- Using a multimeter, check for continuity between
connector 4 and ground (with engine off).
10.8.6 Checking the Pick-Up
- Check that the resistance between connection 2
and ground is approximately 105-124 O at 68°F
(20°C).
- If the measured resistance is not as specified,
replace the faulty parts.
Note: Resistance values are rated for
measurements taken at, or near, the indicated
temperature. Checks carried out with the stator at
operating temperature give higher resistances than
the rated values.
10.8.7 Checking the Flywheel
- Check the integrity of the internal plastic parts of the flywheel and the Pick-Up control
plate.
10.8.8 Fitting the Stator Assembly
- Fit the stator and the flywheel by following the
removing procedure in the reverse order.
Tighten the fastenings with the prescribed
torque.
- Position the wiring as shown in the figure.
Tightening torques:
Stator and pick-up screws 2.2-2.9 lbs·ft
(3-4 N·m)
Note: The pick-up wire must be placed between
the upper screw and the dowel bolt, as shown here.
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10.8.9 Fitting the Flywheel
- Fit the flywheel taking care to correctly insert
the woodruff key.
- Tighten the flywheel lock-nut with the prescribed
torque.
Tightening torques:
Flywheel fixing nut 38.2-42.6 lbs·ft
(52-58 N·m)
- Check that the pick-up clearance gap ranges
between 0.013-0.029 in (0.34-0.76mm).
- No adjustment of the clearance gap is necessary
when fitting the pick-up.
- Different values are the result of deformations of
the pick-up support.
Note: A variation of the clearance gap changes the
minimum supply speed if the ignition system.
10.8.10 Fitting the Flywheel Cover Assembly
- Position the flywheel so that the TDC reference
mark is aligned with the mark on the crankcase.
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- Prepare the flywheel cover by aligning the
reference marks between the drive and the
cover casing.
- Fit the cover on the engine. Insert the three
studs in the water pump drive.
- Follow the operations for the removal in the
reverse order.
Warning – Take care to properly position the
flywheel connector. Make sure of the presence of
the two dowel bolts.
- Replace the plastic support for the secondary air
box valve and tighten wit the prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Flywheel fixing nut 2.2-2.9 lbs·ft
(3-4 N·m)
- Replace the secondary air box valve with its
gasket and tighten with the prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Secondary air box valve screw 2.2±0.4 lbs·ft
(3±0.5 N·m)
- Replace the rubber sleeve and the metal pipe
connecting the SAS valve to the exhaust.
- Check the correct orientation by aligning the two
references, on the rubber and on the plastic
support, as shown in the figure.
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- Tighten the two SAS piping screws at the
prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
SAS piping screw 7.4±8.8 lbs·ft
(10±12 N·m)
10.9 Checking the Secondary Air Box Valve
- Remove the SAS valve.
- Temporarily install the rubber sleeve at the
outlet of the SAS valve ensuring its seal.
- Connect the mityvac vacuum pump to the rubber
sleeve as shown in the figure.
- Set the pump onto vacuum mode.
- Open the pump slowly.
- Check that the one-way valve allows the
passage of air; this should generate a small
vibration.
Note: The absence of vibration indicates a poor
sealing.
- Switch the pump onto pressure mode.
- Open the pump and check that there is an
increase in pressure. Small leaks are normal.
Note: The incorrect operation of the one-way valve
can cause the overheating of the rubber sleeve and
filters.
- Replace in case of faults.
Specific tools and equipment:
Mityvac pump 020329Y
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10.9.1 Checking the One-Way Valve
- Remove the SAS valve.
- Connect the mityvac vacuum pump to cut-off
valve vacuum inlet as shown in the figure.
- Set the pump onto vacuum mode.
- Operate the pump until a vacuum pressure of
0.5 bar is reached.
- Check that this value is maintained does not
decrease with time.
- If the value is not maintained, proceed by
replacing the component.
Note: Besides impairing the functionality of the
cut-off, an incorrect seal of the cut-off valve
membrane affects the engine operation at idle.
- Using a «T» branch and rubber hoses,
implement a parallel connection between the
rubber sleeve and the vacuum inlet of the cut-off
valve.
- Connect the branch to the mityvac pump, as
shown in the figure.
- Set the pump in vacuum position.
- Using pliers with flat tips clamp the rubber hose
in the proximity of the valve.
- Operate the pump until a vacuum pressure of
over 0.5 bar is reached.
- Release the hose and check the valve response.
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- In standard operating conditions, the pressure
undergoes a drop and then settles.
- A slow and gradual gain of pressure, up to about
0.4 bar, then occurs.
- At this point, the valve opens and vacuum
suddenly resets.
- A seal failure or an opening at inconsistent
pressure values is not to be considered as
acceptable. Replace the component.
Note: A seal failure of the cut -off valve causes
exhaust noises (explosions in the silencer). A
wrong calibration of the cut-off valve can impair
the correct functionality of the catalytic converter.
Specific tools and equipment:
Mityvac pump 020329Y
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10.10 Lubrication Circuit
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1 Oil vapors to the air filter 6 Oil filler
2 Rocker cover 7 Oil level in sump
3 Crankshaft 8 Oil pump
4 Oil blow-by valve 9 Oil filter cartridge
5 Low oil pressure sensor 10 Net oil filter
10.10.1 Checking the Oil Pressure
- After removing the flywheel cover as described
in the “Flywheel” chapter (p. 141), detach the
electrical connection of the oil low pressure
switch and remove the switch.
- With the engine idling at 1,650 rpm and the
engine oil at temperature of ~194°F (~90 °C),
check that the oil pressure is in the range 0.5-
1.2 atm.
- With the engine running at 6,000 rpm and the
engine oil at a temperature of. ~194°F (~90 °C),
check that the oil pressure is in the range 3.2-
4.2 atm.
- After completing the check, remove the specific
tools fitted to the engine, refit the low oil
pressure switch, with its washer, and tighten it
with the prescribed torque. Then fit the flywheel
cover.
- If abnormal pressures are found, check in the
following order, the oil filter, the by-pass, the oil
pump and the crankshaft seals.
Specific tools and equipment:
Oil pressure gauge 020193Y
Pressure gauge connection 020434Y
Multimeter with temperature probe 020331Y
Note: Before carrying out the check, ensure that
the oil is at the right level and that the oil filter is in
good condition.
Min. allowable pressure:
Oil pressure 3.2 atm @ 6,000rpm
Tightening torques:
(Also applies to inspection joint) 8.8-10.3 lbs·ft
(12-14 N·m)
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10.10.2 Removing the Oil Sump and Pressure Adjusting By-Pass Valve
- Remove the oil filler cap, the transmission cover,
the driving pulley assembly (with belt), and the
pinio n as described in chapter “Transmission”.
- Drain the oil from the sump as previously
described.
- Remove the seven screws shown in the figure
with the two rear brake fluid pipe clamps.
- Remove the spring, the by-pass piston, the
gasket and the centering dowels shown in the
figure.
10.10.3 Checking the By-Pass Valve
- Check the unloaded length of the spring.
Standard dimension:
By-pass valve spring length 2.11 in
(54.2 mm)
- Check that the piston exhibits no signs of
superficial defects.
- Ensure that it slides freely on the crankcase and
that it provides sufficient seal.
- If not remove any dirt or replace any defective
parts.
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10.10.4 Removing the Oil Pump
- Remove the chain transmission cover and the
complete driving pulley assembly.
- Install the base of the specific tool on the oil
guard, using the supplied screws.
Specific equipment and tools:
Transmission-side oil seal punch 020662Y
- Screw the threaded bar at the base of the tool
and remove the oil seal.
- Remove the pump control rim cover by
loosening the two screws shown in the figure.
- Hold the oil pump control pulley in place, and
thus preventing it from rotating, by inserting a
screwdriver through one of the holes.
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- Remove the central screw with the Belleville
washer; see figure.
- Remove the chain with its pulley.
- Remove the control pinion with the O-ring.
- After loosening the two fastening screws, shown
in the figure, remove the oil pump.
- Remove the seal.
Note: The chain should be suitably marked in order to ensure that the original direction of
rotations is maintained when refitted.
10.10.5 Checking the Oil Pump
- Remove the two screws and the oil pump cover.
- Remove the inner rotor circlip.
- Remove the rotors and carefully clean them with
gasoline and compressed air.
- Reassemble the rotor with the pump body,
leaving the reference marks visible. Re-fit the
snap ring.
- Using a thickness gauge check the distance
between the rotors in the position shown in the
figure.
Max. allowable clearance:
Rotor clearance 0.0040 in
(0.12 mm)
- Measure the distance between the outer rotor
and the pump body; see figure.
Max. allowable clearance:
Rotor-body clearance 0.0078 in
(0.20 mm)
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- Check the rotor axial clearance using a rectified
bar as shown in the figure.
Max. allowable clearance:
Rotor axial clearance 0.0035 in
(0.09 mm)
10.10.6 Fitting the Oil Pump
- Check that the pump shaft body is not worn.
- Check that the pump cover exhibits no wear or
superficial imperfections.
- If any measurement does not comply with the
limits previously specified or if any part is scored
or worn, replace the part or, if necessary, the
assembly.
- Fit the pump cover in a position such to allow
the alignment of the holes for the screws
fastening the pump to the crankcase.
- Tighten the fastening screws with specified
torque.
Tightening torques:
Oil pump-crankcase fixing screws 0.51-0.66 lbs·ft
(0.7-0.9 N·m)
- Ensure that the gasket is correctly positioned
and then fit the pump to the crankcase. The
pump can only be fitted in one position. Tighten
the screws with the prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Oil pump fastening screws 3.7-4.4 lbs·ft
(5-6 N·m)
- Fit the pinion with a new O-ring.
- Fit the chain.
- Fit the pulley, the central screw, and the
Belleville washer. Tighten with the prescribed
torque.
Tightening torques:
Central screw 7.4-10.3 lbs·ft
(10-14 N·m)
- Fit the pump cover and tighten the two screws
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with the prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Oil pump cover screw 0.5-0.6 lbs·ft
(0.7-0.9 N·m)
Note: Fit the Belleville washer so that its outer rim
is in contact with the pulley. Ensure that the pump
can rotate freely.
10.10.7 Fitting the Chain Cover Oil Seal
- Check that the chain tightening shoe is not worn.
- If so, replace it or fit it the other way round to make it work on the other side.
- Using the specific tools listed below, remove the oil seal.
Specific tools and equipment:
Handle 020376Y
(32×35mm) adapter 020357Y
- Prepare the new oil seal carefully lubricating the
sealing lip.
Warning – Do not lubricate the surface keyed onto
the engine crankcase.
- Pre-assemble the oil seal with the specific tool,
by slightly tightening the screws.
- Insert the sheath onto the crankshaft.
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- Insert the tool, with the oil seal onto the
crankshaft, and make it slide until it is in contact
with the crankcase.
Warning – Orientate the oil seal by positioning the
chain housing channel facing downwards. When the
seal is in place, do not pull it back outwards.
Failure to comply with this rule can cause a wrong
positioning of the oil seal sheath.
- Finally, place the oil seal installing the bracket
from the specific tool kit
- Screw the threaded bar onto the crankshaft.
- Using the nut at the base of the tool, position
the oil seal at its position.
- Carefully remove all the tooling
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- Place the cover onto the engine crankcase and, by tightening the three screws (with
copper washers) with the prescribed torque, fix the cover to its seat.
Tightening torques:
Chain cover fixing screw 2.6-3.3 lbs·ft
(3.5-4.5 N·m)
10.10.8 Fitting the By-Pass and the Oil Sump
- Fit the by-pass piston in its seat.
- Insert the adjusting spring.
- Fit a new sump gasket.
- Fit the two dowel bolts.
- Install the sump taking care to insert the spring
into the projection in the sump.
- Fit the screws and the rear brake pipe clamps by
following the removing procedure in the reverse
order.
- Tighten the screws with the prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Oil sump screws 7.4-10.3 lbs·ft
(10-14 N·m)
- Fit the driving pulley assembly, the belt, the
pinion and the transmission cover as described
in the chapter “Transmission”.
- Regarding the checks relating to the lubrication
of the connecting rod assembly, refer to the
chapter “Crankcase and Crankshaft”.
10.10.9 Removing the Intake Manifold
- Remove the flywheel cover assembly.
- Loosen the three screws and remove the intake
manifold.
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10.10.10 Thermostat Removal
- Loosen the two screws shown in the figure and
remove the thermostat cover.
- Remove the thermostat and its gasket.
10.10.11 Removing the Timing Chain Sprockets
- Before removing the cylinder head, it is
necessary to remove all of the following
components: transmission cover, driving pulley
(and belt), starter Bendix, oil sump with spring
and blow-by piston, lower oil pump sprocket
cover, O-ring on crankshaft and oil pump
sprockets-timing chain disk.
- Remove the rocker cover.
- Remove the central screw fastener and the
automatic valve-lifter retaining cover.
- Remove the automatic valve-lifter cam, together
with its end-stop ring.
- Loosen the central screw on the chain tensioner.
- Remove the two screw fasteners shown in the
figure.
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- Remove the Allen screw, shown in the figure,
and the counterweight.
- Remove the timing chain sprocket and
associated washer from the camshaft.
- Remove the timing chain drive sprocket from
the camshaft.
- Remove the screw fastener indicated by the
arrow in the figure, the stator and the chain
guide.
Note: Mark the chain in order to replace it with the
same direction of rotation. The chain tensioning
pad must be removed from the transmission side.
The chain guide can only be removed following the
removal of the cylinder head.
10.10.12 Removing the Camshaft and Rockers
- Remove the two screw fasteners and the
camshaft retainer shown in the figure.
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- Remove the camshaft.
- Remove the rocker pin by pushing it through
from the flywheel side.
- Remove the rockers, together with their spring
washers.
Note: Mark the position of the rockers in order to
prevent the reversal of the inlet and outlet rockers
on reassembly.
10.10.13 Removing the Cylinder Head
- Remove the spark plug.
- Remove the two screw fasteners on the outside
of the cylinder head, shown in the figure.
- Loosen the four cylinder head securing nuts in
two or three stages, following a diagonal
crosswise sequence.
- Remove the cylinder head, the two locating
dowels and the cylinder head gasket.
Note: If necessary, the cylinder head can be
removed as a complete assembly, together with
camshaft, rocker pin and camshaft support.
Furthermore, the cylinder head can be removed
without completely removing the timing chain,
together with the tensioner.
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10.10.14 Removing the Valves
- Using the appropriate special tool, fitted with the
adapter shown in the figure, remove the split
cones, the valve spring retainer caps, the valve
springs and the valves themselves.
Special tools and equipment:
Valve removing tool 020382Y
Adapter 020382/11Y
Warning – Place the valves so as to recognize
their original position on the head.
- Remove the valve seals with the appropriate
special tool.
Special tools and equipment:
Oil seals removing tool 020431Y
- Remove the spring seats.
10.10.15 Removing the Cylinder and Piston Assembly
- Remove the chain guide.
- Remove the cylinder base gasket.
Warning – Ensure the piston is well-supported
whilst removing the cylinder, in order to avoid
damaging it.
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- Remove the two wrist pin spring clips, the wrist
pin and the piston.
- Remove the piston rings.
Note: Take care to avoid damaging the piston
rings whilst removing them.
10.10.16 Inspecting the Small End
- Measure the internal diameter of the small end
using an internal micrometer.
Standard dimension:
Small end diameter ∅ 0.5911-0.5915 in
(15.015-15.025 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Small end diameter ∅ 0.5917 in
(15.030 mm)
Note: Whenever the small end exceeds the wear
limit, or shows signs of wear or overheating,
replace the crankshaft with a new one, as
described in the following pages.
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10.10.17 Inspecting the Wrist Pin Diameter
- Measure the external diameter of the wrist pin.
Standard dimension:
Wrist pin diameter ∅ 0.5904-0.5906 in
(14.996-15.000 mm)
Min. allowable diameter:
Wrist pin diameter ∅ 0.5903 in
(14.994 mm)
- Estimate the clearance between the wrist pin
and piston.
Standard clearance:
Piston/wrist pin 0.00003-0.00025 in
(0.001-0.010 mm)
Note: The wrist pin housing has two lubrication
channels so, in order to get a true reading of the
internal diameter, the measurement must be taken
parallel to the axis of the piston.
10.10.18 Inspecting the Piston and Cylinder Diameters
- Measure the outside diameter of the piston,
perpendicular to the wrist pin axis.
- Take this measurement 0.197 in (5 mm) from
the base of the piston, as shown in the figure.
Standard diameter:
Piston diameter ∅ 2.8328-2.8339 in
(71.953-71.981 mm)
Note: The wrist pin housing has two lubrication
channels so, in order to get a true reading of the
internal diameter, the measurement must be taken
parallel to the axis of the piston.
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- Using a bore measuring instrument, measure
the cylinder bore, in different directions and at
different heights, as shown in the figure.
- Check that there is no wear or deformation on
the surface of the cylinder that mates with the
cylinder head.
Max. allowable out-of-plane:
Cylinder/cylinder head 0.0020 in
(0.050 mm)
- Pistons and cylinders are classified according to
the diameter. Pistons should be matched with
cylinders of the same classification (A-A , B-B,
C-C, D-D).
- Cylinder re-bores must be carried out respecting
the original matching angle on the bored surface
of the cylinder.
- The surface roughness of the bored surface of
the cylinder should be 0.00004 in (0.9 m).
- This is imperative to ensure proper bedding-in of
the piston rings, and hence reduced oil
consumption and optimum performance.
- 1st, 2nd and 3rd over-size pistons are available as
spare parts, for re-bored cylinders,
corresponding to 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 mm over-
sizes, respectively. There are four categories for
matching oversize cylinders (A-A, B-B, C-C,
D- D).
10.10.19 Inspecting the Piston
- Clean the piston ring grooves thoroughly.
- Measure the clearance between piston rings and
the grooves using feeler gauges, as shown in
the figure.
- If the clearances exceed the limits specified in
the table below, the piston should be replaced
by a new one.
Note: Measure the clearance by inserting the
thickness gauge in the second groove.
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Standard Clearance Wear limit: max. clearance
Top ring 0.0006-0.0024 in 0.0028 in
(0.015-0.060 mm) (0.070 mm)
Middle ring 0.0006-0.0024 in 0.0028 in
(0.015-0.060 mm) (0.070 mm)
Oil scraper ring 0.0006-0.0024 in 0.0028 in
(0.015-0.060 mm) (0.070 mm)
10.10.20 Checking the Piston Ring Gap
- Insert each of the three piston rings in turn, in a
part of the cylinder that still maintains its
original diameter, making sure they are square
to the axis of the cylinder.
- Measure the piston ring gap using feeler
gauges.
- Replace piston rings exhibiting a gap exceeding
the specified limit.
Note: Before replacing the piston rings alone, on
the original piston, check the piston ring to groove
clearance and the piston to cylinder clearances are
within the specified limits. The new rings may sit
differently that the old ones, which had bedded-in,
when fitted on a used cylinder.
Standard gap Maximum gap
Top ring 0.0059-0.0118 in 0.0157 in
(0.15-0.30 mm) (0.040 mm)
Middle ring 0.0078-0.0157 in 0.0197 in
(0.20-0.40 mm) (0.50 mm)
Oil scraper ring 0.0078-0.0157 in 0.0197 in
(0.20-0.40 mm) (0.50 mm)
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10.10.21 Fitting the Piston
- Assemble the piston and wrist pin onto the
connecting rod, with the arrow in the piston
crown pointing towards the exhaust port.
- Insert the wrist pin spring clips, using the
appropriate special three-part tool, as described
below. With the opening in the position shown
on the tool.
Specific tools and equipment:
Pin retainer installer 020488Y
Note: The letter ‘S’ stamped onto the tool stands
for left, while the letter ‘D’ stands for right.
Note: The tool must be used exclusively by hand.
- Place the circlip on the hollow tool, with the
opening over the arrow stamped on the tool.
Insert the longer of the two drifts into the
hollow part of the tool and push home, to the
circlip into the correct position on the hollow
tool.
- Insert the shorter of the two drifts into the
hollow part of the tool, offer up the couple to
the circlip groove and push the shorter drift
home, to push the circlip into its groove on the
piston.
Warning – Using a mallet to fit the circlip can
damage the circlip grooves.
10.10.22 Choosing the Base Gasket Thickness
- Fit the cylinder without the base gasket.
- Fit a dial gauge to the appropriate special tool.
Specific tools and equipment:
Piston positioning support 020428Y
- Rest the dial gauge and support on a datum
surface and take an arbitrary zero reading.
- Place the bracket, together with the dial gauge,
on top of the cylinder, fastening it with two nuts
to the studs (use a tightening torque not
superior to 8.1 lbs·ft (11 N·m).
- Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC, by acting
onto the flywheel.
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- Choose the base gasket thickness according to
the difference between the two dial gauge
readings obtained, referring to the table below.
Choosing the correct base gasket thickness will
give the correct compression ratio.
- Remove the dial gauge and support from the
cylinder.
Warning – Using a mallet to fit the circlip can
damage the circlip grooves.
With fiber gasket (thickness 0.0433 in (1.1 mm))
Measured recess Gasket thickness
0.0197-0.0236 in (0.5-0.6 mm) 0.0157±0.0020 in (0.4±0.05 mm)
0.0236-0.0315 in (0.6-0.8 mm) 0.0236±0.0020 in (0.6±0.05 mm)
0.0315-0.0354 in (0.8-0.9 mm) 0.0315±0.0020 in (0.8±0.05 mm)
With metal gasket (thickness 0.0118 in (0.3 mm))
Measured recess Gasket thickness
- 0.0118 - -0.0078 in (- 0.3 - - 0.2 mm) 0.0157±0.0020 in (0.4±0.05 mm)
- 0.0078 - 0.000 in (- 0.2 - 0.0 mm) 0.0236±0.0020 in (0.6±0.05 mm)
0.0000 - +0.0039 in (0.0 - +0.1 mm) 0.0315±0.0020 in (0.8±0.05 mm)
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10.10.23 Fitting the Piston Rings
- Place the oil scraper ring spring on the piston.
- Install the scraper ring keeping the opening
opposed to the spring junction and with the
word “TOP” facing upwards. In any case, the
chamfering must be arranged towards the
piston.
- Fit the middle piston ring with the identification
letter facing the crown of the piston. The
tapered side of the middle piston ring should
always be facing the crown of the piston.
- The top piston ring with the word “TOP” or the
reference mark facing the crown of the piston.
Note: In order to improve the bedding in of the
rings, the surfaces on the top two piston rings are
angled to give a conical section of contact.
Note: Offset the piston ring gaps on the three
rings by 120° to each other, and lubricate the
components with engine oil.
10.10.24 Fitting the Cylinder
- Fit the base gasket of the chosen thickness,
previously determined.
- Using the fork support and the piston ring
retaining band. Install the cylinder as shown in
the figure.
Specific tools and equipment:
Piston fitting fork 020426Y
Piston ring retaining band 020393Y
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Note: Before installing the cylinder blow out the
lubrication ducts thoroughly and lubricate the bore
of the cylinder with engine oil.
Warning – Always use a new base gasket.
10.10.25 Inspecting the Cylinder Head
- Using a bar with a ground flat surface, check the
surface of the cylinder head that mates with the
cylinder is not worn.
Max. allowable out-of-plane: 0.0020 in
(0.050 mm)
- Inspect the working surfaces of the camshaft
and the rocker pin for signs of wear.
- Inspect the flat surfaces on the cylinder head
cover, the inlet manifold and the exhaust
manifold.
Hole Standard diameter
A 0.4724-0.4731 in (12.000–12.018 mm)
B 0.7874-0.7882 in (20.000-20.021 mm)
C 1.4567-1.4577 in (37.000–37.025 mm)
10.10.26 Checking the Valve Seals
- Measure the width of the sealing surfaces on the
valve heads.
Standard dimension:
Valve sealing width (intake) 0.0390 in
(0.99 mm)
Standard dimension:
Valve sealing width (exhaust) 0.0500 in
(1.27 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Valve sealing width (intake) 0.0630 in
(1.60 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Valve sealing width (exhaust) 0.0630 in
(1.60 mm)
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- If the valve sealing surface is wider than the
prescribed limit, interrupted in one or more
points, or bent, replace the valve.
Warning – Do not change the valve assembly
position.
10.10.27 Inspecting the Valve Seats
- Clean any carbon build-up from the valve
guides.
- Measure the internal diameter of each valve
guide.
- Take the above measurement at three different
heights, according to the direction of the thrust
of the valves.
Standard dimension:
Valve seat diameter (intake) ∅ 0.1969-0.1973 in
(5.000-5.012 mm)
Standard dimension:
Valve seat diameter (exhaust) ∅ 0.1969-0.1973 in
(5.000-5.012 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Valve seat diameter (intake) ∅ 0.1977 in
(5.022 mm)
Max. allowable dimension:
Valve seat diameter (exhaust) ∅ 0.1977 in
(5.022 mm)
- Check the width of the wear on the valve seat
(indicate by “V” in the figure) does not exceed a
width of 0.063 in (1.6 mm). If the wear exceeds
this limit, replace the cylinder head with a new
one.
10.10.28 Inspecting the Valves
- Measure the diameter of the valve stems in the
three positions indicated in the figure.
Standard dimension:
Valve stem diameter (intake) ∅ 0.1957-0.1963 in
(4.972-4.987 mm)
Standard dimension:
Valve stem diameter (exhaust) ∅ 0.1953-0.1959 in
(4.960-4.975 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Valve stem diameter (intake) ∅ 0.1953 in
(4.960 mm)
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(4.960 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Valve stem diameter (exhaust) ∅ 0.1949 in
(4.950 mm)
- Estimate the clearance between valve stem and
valve guide.
Standard clearance:
Valve stem-guide (intake) 0.0005 -0.0016 in
(0.013-0.040 mm)
Standard clearance:
Valve stem-guide (exhaust) 0.0010-0.0020 in
(0.025-0.052 mm)
Max. allowable clearance:
Valve stem-guide (intake) 0.0024 in
(0.062 mm)
Max. allowable clearance:
Valve stem-guide (exhaust) 0.0028 in
(0.072 mm)
- Check the wear on the surfaces on the ends of
the valve stems, in contact with the tappets, is
not excessive.
- Measure the length of the valve.
Standard dimension:
Valve length (intake) 3.724 in
(94.6 mm)
Standard dimension:
Valve length (exhaust) 3.717 in
1 = YES
(94.4 mm)
2 = NO
- If any of the sealing surface of the valve does
not conform to the specified wear limits, or is
damaged or curved, replace the valve with a
new one.
- It is advisable to grind the valve seats, which
should be done using a fine grade grinding
paste. During the grinding operation hold the
cylinder in such a position as to keep the valve
axis horizontal. This will avoid grinding paste
residues penetrating the seal between the valve
guide and stem; see figure.
Warning – In order to avoid scoring the sealing
surfaces, do not continue rotating the valve after
the grinding paste has run out. Thoroughly clean
the cylinder head and valves with a suitable
product according to the grinding paste used.
Note: Do not change the valve assembly position.
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10.10.29 Testing the Valve Seals
- Fit each of the valves, alternatively, into the
head.
- For each valve, fill the appropriate manifold
chamber with fuel and check that no petrol leaks
out, whilst holding the valve shut with just the
force of a finger.
10.10.30 Checking the Valve Spring Plates and Half-cones
- Check that the spring upper support plates and
half-cones are free from irregular wear.
10.10.31 Fitting the Valves
- Lubricate the valve guides with engine oil.
- Place the valve spring seats on the cylinder
head.
- Using the special drift fit the four valve seals.
Specific tools and equipment:
Oil seals installing punch 020306Y
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- Fit the valves, the springs and the spring
retaining caps. Using the appropriate special tool
and adapter, compress the spring and insert the
split cones in their seats.
Specific tools and equipment:
Valve installation tool 020382Y
Adapter 020382/11Y
Note: Do not change the valve assembly position.
Fit the valves with the reference color on the half-
cones side.
10.10.32 Inspecting the Timing Components
- Inspect the chain guide and the chain tensioner
for signs of excessive wear.
- Check there is not excessive wear on the timing
chain, the camshaft sprocket and the timing
chain sprocket on the crankshaft.
- Replace worn components, as necessary, and in
the case of wear on the timing chain or
sprockets, replace all three components as a
group.
- Remove the chain tensioning screw with the
associated washer and spring. Check there is no
wear on the one-way valve mechanism.
- Check the tensioning is in good condition.
- If any of the chain tensioner components is
defective, replace the complete chain tensioner
assembly with a new one.
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10.10.33 Inspecting the Camshaft
- Inspect the camshaft for signs of abnormal wear
on the cams.
- Measure the diameter of the two bearing
surfaces (“A” and “B” in the figure) and the
height of the height of the intake and exhaust
cams.
Standard dimension:
Diameter (A) ∅ 1.4547-1.4557 in
(36.950-36.975 mm)
Standard dimension:
Diameter (B) ∅ 0.7858-0.7866 in
(19.959-19.980 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Dimension (A) ∅ 1.4543 in
(36.940 mm)
Min. allowable dimension:
Diameter (B) ∅ 0.7854 in
(19.950 mm)
Standard dimension:
Cam height (intake) 1.1923in
(30.285 mm)
Standard dimension:
Cam height (exhaust) 1.1500 in
(29.209 mm)
- Check there is no wear on the camshaft
retaining plate and its associated groove on the
camshaft.
Max. allowable clearance:
Camshaft retaining plate 0.020 in
(0.42 mm)
- If any of the above dimensions are outside the
specified limits, or there are signs of excessive
wear, replace the defective components with
new ones.
- Check there are no signs of wear on the
automatic valve-lifter cam, or the end-stop ring,
or the rubber buffer on the automatic valve-
lifter retaining cover.
- Check the automatic valve-lifter return spring is
not reformed by over-stretching.
- Replace any defective or worn components.
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- Check the rocker pin for excessive wear or
scoring.
Standard dimension:
Rocker pin diameter ∅ 0.4715-0.4719 in
(11.977-11.985 mm)
- Measure the internal diameter of both rockers.
Standard dimension:
Rocker diameter ∅ 0.4724-0.4729 in
(12.000-12.011 mm)
- Check there are no signs of wear on the cam
followers or the tappets.
- Check there are no signs of wear on the spring
washers that can take up the axial play between
the rockers. Replace any defective components
with the new ones.
10.10.34 Fitting the Cylinder Head
- Fit the timing chain guide.
- Insert the centering dowels between head and
cylinder. Install the head gasket and then place
the head onto the cylinder.
- Lubricate the stud threading.
- Fit the cylinder head nut fasteners and tighten
them in a crosswise sequence, in two or three
stages, to the specified tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Cylinder head nuts 4.4-5.9lbs·ft+180°
(preliminary) (6-8 N·m+180°)
- Tighten the nuts by following the sequence
shown in figure.
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- Fit the two screw fasteners on the outside of the
timing chain side of the cylinder head and
tighten them to the specified tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Timing side screws 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
Note: Before fitting the cylinder head, check the
lubricating channels are clean, using compressed
air, if necessary, to remove any residues.
10.10.35 Fitting the Timing Components
- Fit the lower timing chain sprocket on the
crankshaft, with the chamfer innermost.
- Loop the timing chain around the sprocket on
the crankshaft.
- Fit the chain tensioner guide to the cylinder
head.
- Fit the spacer and the fastening screw, and
tighten the screw at the prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Tensioner screw 7.4-10.3 lbs·ft
(10-14 N·m)
- Fit the rocker pin, the exhaust rocker, the spring
washer and the inlet washer.
- Lubricate the rockers via the holes on top.
- Lubricate the cam surfaces and insert the
camshaft in the support, making sure the cams
correspond to the rockers.
- Fit the camshaft retaining plate and fit the two
screw fasteners, shown in the figure, to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque:
Camshaft retaining screws 3.0-4.4 lbs·ft
(4-6 N·m)
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- Fit the spacer on the camshaft.
- Rotate the engine so that piston is at TDC, using
the reference marks on the flywheel and the
crankcase.
- Holding the engine in this position, loop the
chain over the camshaft timing chain sprocket,
making sure the reference mark “4V” on the
sprocket corresponds to the reference mark
machined on the cylinder head.
- Fit the pulley on the camshaft.
- Fit the counterweight and tighten the screw to
the specified tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Counterweight screw 5.1-6.2 lbs·ft
(7-8.5 N·m)
- Fit the end-stop ring on the automatic valve-
lifter cam and fit the automatic valve-lifter cam
to the camshaft.
Note: Lubricate the end-stop ring with grease, in
order to avoid it from coming loose accidentally
and falling inside the engine.
- Fit the automatic valve-lifter return spring, pre-
loading it by a 180° rotation.
- Fit the automatic valve-lifter retaining dish,
using the counterweight fastening screw as a
reference.
- Tighten the screw to the specified tightening
torque.
Tightening torque:
Retaining dish screw 8.1-11.0 lbs·ft
(11-15 N·m)
- With the tensioning screw screwed right out, fit
the chain tensioner on the cylinder, using a new
gasket, and tight the two screws to the specified
torque.
Tightening torque:
Tensioner screw 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
- Insert the chain tensioning screw, together with
the spring and washer, tightening it to the
specified tightening torque.
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Tightening torque:
Tensioner cap 3.7-4.4 lbs·ft
(5-6 N·m)
- Adjust the valve clearances according to the
instructions given in the previous chapters.
- Fit the spark-plug.
Tightening torque:
Spark plug 8.9-10.3 lbs·ft
(12-14 N·m)
Recommended spark plug:
Champion RG 6YC
- Fit the rocker cover gasket. The projections on
the timing chain side provide a reference for its
orientation.
- Fit the head cover and tighten the five screws at
the prescribed torque. Check the proper position
of the gasket.
Tightening torque:
Rocker cover screw 4.4-5.1 lbs·ft
(6-7 N·m)
- Fit the flywheel cover as already described in
the “Flywheel” chapter.
- Fit the oil pump drive, the oil pump cover, the
oil blow-by valve and the sump (see
“Lubrication” chapter).
- Fit the driving pulley, the drive belt and the
transmission cover (see “Transmission”).
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10.10.36 Fitting the Thermostat
- Place the thermostat with the drainage hole in
the highest point.
- Check that the rubber gasket is properly
positioned.
- Install the thermostat cover with the carburetor
heating connection facing the flywheel.
- Tighten the two screws at the prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Thermostat screw 2.1-2.8 lbs·ft
(3-4 N·m)
10.10.37 Fitting the Intake Manifold
- Install the intake manifold and tighten the three
fastening screws.
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10.11 Crankshaft
10.11.1 Preparing the Engine for Crankcase Separation
- Following the instructions previously described,
remove the following components/assemblies:
Transmission cover, driving pulley, drive belt,
driven pulley, reduction gearbox cover, gears
bearings and oil seals (“Transmission” chapter).
Oil sump, oil blow-by valve, oil pump and cover
(“Lubrication” chapter).
Flywheel cover, water pump, flywheel and stator
(“Flywheel” chapter).
- Remove the oil filter and the oil low pressure
sender.
- Remove the cylinder-head and cylinder-piston
assembly (see the previous chapter).
- Remove the two screws shown in the figure and
the starter motor.
- Before separating the crankcase halves, it is
worthwhile to measure the end-float on the
crankshaft. Use a dial gauge and support
attached to the crankcase separating plate.
Recommended tools and equipment:
Crankcase detachment plate 020262Y
Dial gauge with magnetic base 020335Y
Standard clearance:
Crankshaft 0.0059-0.0157 in
(0.15-0.40 mm)
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10.11.2 Separating the Crankcase Halves
- Remove the eleven screw fasteners securing the
crankcase halves together.
- Separate the crankcase halves, taking care to
leave the crankshaft supported by one of the
two halves.
Warning – Failing to observe this rule can lead to
damage of the crankshaft.
- Remove the crankshaft from whichever
crankcase half it sits, following separation of the
crankcase halves.
Warning – During separation of the crankcase
halves and removal of the crankshaft, take care
that the threaded ends of the crankshaft do not
damage the main bearings.
Note: The crankshaft is installed with two steel
shim adjusting washers. Make a note of the fitting
position.
Recommended tools and equipment:
Crankcase detachment plate 020262Y
Dial gauge with magnetic base 020335Y
Standard clearance:
Crankcase 0.0059-0.0157 in
(0.15-0.40 mm)
- Remove the crankcase gasket.
- Remove the two screws and the internal cover
shown in the figure.
- Remove the oil seal on the flywheel side.
- Remove the oil filter union shown in the figure.
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10.11.3 Checking the Crankshaft
- Check the connecting rod axial clearance, before
removal.
Standard clearance:
Connecting rod (axial) 0.008-0.020 in
(0.20-0.50 mm)
- Check the radial clearance on the connecting
rod.
Standard clearance:
Connecting rod (radial) 0.0014-0.0021 in
(0.036-0. 054 mm)
- Check that the surfaces that limit the axial free-
play are not scored and measure the width, as
shown in the figure.
Note: Make sure the ends of the caliper do not go
into the machined corner of the crankshaft, as the
curvature in the corner may cause inaccurate
readings.
Standard dimension:
with shim adjusting washers 2.024-2.026 in
(51.40-51.45 mm)
Standard dimension: 2.192-2.199 in
with integral washers (55.67-55.85 mm)
Warning – The crankshaft can be re-used as long as its width is within the specified limits
and shows no signs of scoring.
- If present, check that the shim adjusting washers show no signs of superficial
imperfections, such as scratches or crack initiations, and measure their thickness.
Standard dimension:
Shim adjusters thickness 0.0856-0.0876 in
(2.175-2.225 mm)
Note: If the shim adjusting washers are to be reused, ensure to keep the initial assembly
position.
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Note: Provided none of the specified crankshaft tolerances are exceeded, any non-
acceptable axial play found on the crankshaft must be due to either excessive wear or wrong
machining on the crankcase.
Measure the diameters on both X and Y axes
Class Standard diameter (mm)
1.1416–1.1418
1
(28.998-29.004)
1.1418–1.1421
2
(29.004-29.010)
Maximum allowable misalignment:
A = 0.0060 in (0.15 mm)
B = 0.0004 in (0.01 mm)
C = 0.0004 in (0.01 mm)
D = 0.0039 in (0.10 mm)
Specific tools and equipment:
Support and dial gauge 020335Y
Crankshaft aligning tool 020074Y
Crankcase – Crankshaft – Half crankshaft bearings
Class 1 Class 2
Crankcase
1.2973–1.2978
(32.953–32.963)
Half A type - Red B type - Blue C type - Yellow
crankshaft
0.0776–0.0777 0.0777–0.0778 0.0778–0.779
bearing
(1.970–1.973) (1.973–1.976) (1.976–1.979)
Note: Spare crankcases are selected Half-crankcase Half crankshaft Bearing
with half-crankcases of the same
category and mounted with category Cat. 1 Cat. 1 B
B bearings (blue colored).
Match the shaft with two category 1
Cat. 2 Cat. 2 B
shoulders with category 1 crankcase
(or cat. 2 with cat. 2).
A spare crankcase cannot be Cat. 1 Cat. 2 A
combined with a crankshaft with
mixed categories. Spare shafts have
half-shafts of the same category. Cat. 2 Cat. 1 C
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10.11.4 Checking the Crankcase Halves
- Before proceeding to check the crankcase
halves, thoroughly clean all the surfaces and oil
ducts.
- On the transmission side crankcase half, take
particular care cleaning the housing and oil
ducts for the following components: the oil
pump, the oil blow-by valve, the main bearings
and the cooling jet on the transmission side, see
picture.
Note: The cooling jet is fed via the main bearings.
When working correctly, it improves the cooling of
the crown of the piston. Blockage of this jet will
increase piston temperature and the ensuing
damage would require major repairs. A missing or
unseated cooling jet can cause a serious reduction
in the oil pressure lubricating the main bearing and
connecting rod.
As mentioned in the "Lubric ation" chapter, it is
essential that the by-pass housing shows no signs
of wear capable of affecting the seal of the
lubrication pressure adjusting piston.
- On the flywheel side crankcase half, take
particular care in cleaning the oil ducts for the
main bearings, the oil duct for the jet that
lubricates the cylinder head and the oil drainage
duct at the flywheel side oil seal.
Note: The oil duct for lubrication of the cylinder
head is fitted with a vaporizer jet that provides so-
called 'low pressure lubrication', designed to keep
the oil temperature in the sump at an acceptable
level. Blockage of this jet will prevent proper
lubrication of the cylinder head and timing
components. A missing or unseated jet can cause a
serious reduction in the oil pressure lubricating the
main bearing and connecting rod.
- Inspect the mating surfaces on the crankcase
halves for scratches or deformations, taking
particular care with the surfaces that mate with
the cylinder and the mating surfaces between
the crankcase halves.
- Defects in the gasket between the crankcase
halves, or the mating surfaces shown in the
figure, can cause a reduction in the oil pressure
lubricating the main bearing and connecting rod.
- Check the main bearing seats that limit axial
play in the crankshaft show no signs of wear.
The dimension between these seats is measured
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following the procedure previously described for
measuring the crankshaft axial play and
dimensions.
10.11.5 Checking the Main Bearings
- Proper lubrication of the main bearings depends
on them being seated correctly in their
housings, which will avoid obstructing the
lubrication ducts. Not only will this ensure
proper flow of oil, but also proper oil pressure
values 58 psi (4 bar), on which lubrication of the
main bearings depends.
- The main bearings comprise two half-bearings,
one containing holes and channels for
lubrication and the other solid.
- The solid half-bearing bears the load due to
combustion and is, therefore, located at the far
side from the cylinder.
- In order to avoid obstructing the passage of oil,
the plane of the coupling between the two half-
bearings must be absolutely perpendicular to
the axis of the cylinder, as shown in the figure.
- The depth to which the half-bearings are driven,
in relation to the surface that limits the axial
play of the crankshaft, can also affect the
alignment of the oil ducts.
Standard dimension:
Main bearing bedding-in depth 0.053-0.063 in
(1.35-1.60 mm)
Note: The main bearings are driven into steel
rings located by interference fit inside both the
crankcase castings, in order to maintain the
position described above.
- Check the internal diameter of the main
bearings in the three directions indicated in the
figure.
- Repeat these measurements on the other side
of the lubrication channel in the bearing (see
figure).
Note: Avoid measuring the main bearings internal
diameter on the mating surface of the two half
shells as the ends are relieved to allow distortion
during the bedding.
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during the bedding. A = Matching surface
- The main bearings are chosen from a selection of standard sizes that give certain internal
diameters once driven into the bearing housings in the crankcase, so as to obtain a match
with the crankshaft.
- Bearing housings are available in two categories as are the crankshafts (cat. 1 and cat. 2)
- The crankcase is available in one class only. And can either be fitted with red, blue or
yellow bearings.
Standard dimension: ∅ 1.2974-1.2978 in
Crankcase bearing housing (32.953-32.963 mm)
- Main half-bearings are divided into three categories according to their thickness; see table
in the previous page for details.
Half-
Bearing Bearing internal diameter
crankcase Mating option
category as assembled
category
1.1427-1.1433 in
A 1 Original
(29.025-29.040 mm)
1.1425-1.1431 in
1
(29.025-29.040 mm)
B Original and spare
1.1428-1.1434 in
2
(29.028-29.043 mm)
1.1426-1.1432 in
C 2 Original
(29.022-29.037 mm)
10.11.6 Assembling the Crankcase Halves
- Fit the internal cover shown in the diagram and
tighten the two screw fasteners to the specified
tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Internal cover screws 2.9-4.4 lbs·ft
(4-6 N·m)
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- Fit the oil filter union and tighten it to the
specified tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Oil filter union 19.9-24.3 lbs·ft
(27-33 N·m)
- Place a new gasket on one of the crankc ase
halves, preferably on the transmission side,
together with the locating dowels.
- Lubricate the main bearings and insert the
crankshaft in the transmission side crankcase
half.
- Re-assemble the two crankcase halves.
Note: Take care that the threaded end of the
crankshaft does not damage the main bearing.
- Place the shim adjusting washers in their
original position.
- Fit the eleven screws and tighten them to the
prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Half crankcase coupling screws 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
Note: Remove any remains of the old gasket from
the crankcase and cylinder mating surfaces in
order to ensure proper seals.
- Lubricate the flywheel-side oil seal.
- Using the appropriate special tool, fit the oil
seal.
Recommended tools and equipment:
Punch for oil seal 020425Y
Note: Not using the special tool can lead to the oil
seal being fitted at the wrong depth, thereby
preventing it from working properly.
- Fit a new O-ring on the oil sieve and lubricate it.
- Re-ft the oil seal to the engine with the oil drain plug and tighten to the specified
tightening torque.
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10.11.7 Fitting the Starter Motor
- Fit a new O-ring on the starter motor and
lubricate it.
- Fit the starter motor to the crankcase and
tighten the two screw fasteners to the specified
tightening torque.
Tightening torque:
Half crankcase coupling screws 8.1-9.6 lbs·ft
(11-13 N·m)
Note: Re-fit the remaining engine components as
described in the previous pages.
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10.11.8 Removing the Carburetor
10.11.8.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor
- To disconnect the carburetor from the engine, it
is necessary to move the air filter and remove
the throttle cable, the automatic choke
connection, the clamps fastening the carburetor
to the filter box and the intake manifold, the
pipe supplying air to the membrane, and the
inlet connection.
- Pull off the carburetor and rotate it to remove
the screw with the water connection complete
with pipes.
Note: This operation is necessary to avoid
emptying the cooling system. It is also necessary
to disconnect the cut-off vacuum supply pipe.
- Remove the protection, the clamp and the
automatic choke device after loosening the two
screws shown in the figure.
- Remove the two screws and the automatic
choke device support with its gasket.
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- Remove the clamp and the cap with the
membrane chamber filter.
- Remove the four fixing screws shown in the
figure and the vacuum chamber cover.
- Caution - The spring can suddenly jump out
during the operation of removal. Take care to
contain it.
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- Remove the vacuum valve with the membrane.
- Turn the coupling by ? turn and remove it.
Remove the spring and the vacuum valve pin.
- Remove the four screws shown in the figure.
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- Remove the float bowl, the accelerator pump
and its gasket.
- Remove the sealing gasket.
- Remove the accelerator pump inlet and outlet
valves from the bowl.
Note: Pay particular attention when handling the
valves, since they consist of nozzles, springs and
metallic spheres.
Note: Do not remove the accelerator pump piston
and control.
- Using a hammer, and with the carburetor
suitably supported, remove the float pin from
the throttle valve side.
- Remove the float.
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- Remove the main jet.
- Loosen the emulsion jet.
- Tilt the carburetor and remove the emulsion jet.
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- Remove the atomizer.
Note: This operation is necessary to avoid loosing
the atomizer while cleaning the carburetor body. If
the atomizer is jammed in its housing, do not
attempt to remove it, or it may get damaged.
- Remove the idling jet.
- Remove the idle-speed flow screw and spring.
Warning - Do not attempt to remove components pressed into the carburetor body. These
include the fuel feed duct, the needle valve seat, the starter jet, the emulsion tube plug, the
accelerator jet, the air adjuster (minimum and maximum), the butterfly valve and the
butterfly valve control arm. The screw fasteners have been crimped after fitting and
removing them will damage the arm.
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10.11.8.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor
- To disconnect the carburetor from the engine, it
is necessary to move the air filter and remove
the throttle cable, the automatic choke
connection, the clamps fastening the carburetor
to the filter box and the intake manifold, the
pipe supplying air to the membrane, and the
inlet connection.
- Pull off the carburetor and rotate it to remove
the screw with the water connection complete
with pipes.
Note: This operation is necessary to avoid
emptying the cooling system. It is also necessary
to disconnect the cut-off vacuum supply pipe.
- Remove the protection, the clamp and the
automatic choke device after releasing the
screw shown in the figure.
- Remove the clamp and the cap with the
membrane chamber filter.
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- Remove the four fixing screws shown in the
figure and the vacuum chamber cover.
Caution - The spring can suddenly jump out
during the operation of removal. Take care to
contain it.
- Remove the vacuum valve with the membrane.
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- Turn the coupling by ? turn and remove it.
Remove the spring and the vacuum valve pin.
- Remove the four screws shown in the figure.
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- Remove the float bowl, the accelerator pump
and its gasket.
- Remove the sealing gasket.
- Remove the accelerator pump inlet and outlet
valves from the bowl.
Note: Pay particular attention when handling the
valves, since they consist of nozzles, springs and
metallic spheres.
Note: Do not remove the accelerator pump piston
and control.
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- Using a hammer, and with the carburetor
suitably supported, remove the float pin from
the throttle valve side.
- Remove the float.
- Remove the cap conveying fuel to the starting
jet, shown in the figure.
- Remove the main jet.
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- Loosen the emulsion jet.
- Remove the atomizer.
Note: This operation is necessary to avoid loosing
the atomizer while cleaning the carburetor body. If
the atomizer is jammed in its housing, do not
attempt to remove it, or it may get damaged.
- Remove the idling jet.
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- Remove the idle-speed flow screw with O-ring,
washer and spring.
- Remove the two fixing screws, the cover, the
spring and the cut -off device membrane.
Warning - Do not attempt to remove components pressed into the carburetor body. These
include the fuel feed duct, the needle valve seat, the starter jet, the emulsion tube plug, the
accelerator jet, the air adjuster (minimum and maximum), the butterfly valve and the
butterfly valve control arm. The screw fasteners have been crimped after fitting and
removing them will damage the arm.
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10.11.9 Re-assembling the carburetor
10.11.9.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor
- Clean the carburetor thoroughly before
reassembly, using petrol and compressed air.
- Take particular care in cleaning the fuel feed
duct and the float valve seat.
- Clean the main air jet shown in the figure.
- Carefully clean the slow-running circuit,
concentrating in the following points:
the air screw, the passage within the slow-
running screw mechanism and the auxiliary
channel openings around the butterfly valve.
- For the starter circuit, concentrate on the jet duct, as the housing blocks the calibrated
holes, making them inaccessible.
- Thoroughly blow out the accelerator pump jet.
Note: The jet outlet is extremely small and directed towards the butterfly valve. Proper
atomization will be prevented, if this jet is directed otherwise.
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- Check that on the carburetor there are five ball bearing seals pressed into the holes
machined in the carburetor body.
- Check that the two mating surfaces, between the float bowl and the diaphragm, are
unblemished.
- Check the butterfly valve and control arm.
- Check that the float valve housing channel shows no signs of scoring.
- Check that the valve seat shows no signs of abnormal or excessive wear.
- If any of the above defects are observed, replace the carburetor with a new one.
Note: Do not insert metal tools or instruments into the calibrated jets as these can cause
damage and alter the carburetion.
- Thoroughly clean and blow the slow-running jet
and re-fit it.
- Thoroughly clean and blow the main supply
circuit components, the atomizer, the emulsion
jet and the main jet.
- Insert the atomizer into the carburetor body
with the shorter, cylindrical part facing the
emulsifier.
- Re-fit the emulsion jet, ensuring the atomizer is
correctly located, and tighten.
- Re-fit the main jet.
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- Check there are no signs of wear on the sealing
surface of the float needle, the softened pin or
the return spring.
- If there are any signs of wear, replace the
needle with a new one.
- Check that the float shows no signs of wear on the hinge, or the metal tab in contact with
the float needle and check that fuel has not infiltrated the float.
- If there are any defects, replace the float with a new one.
- Re-fit the float, together with the needle, inserting the pin from the fuel inlet side.
Note: Ensure the return spring on the float tab is in the correct position.
10.11.9.2 Walbro WFV-7P Carburetor
- Before reassembling the carburetor, carefully clean the carburetor body using fuel and
compressed air.
- Take particular care in cleaning the fuel feed duct and the float valve seat.
- In the Venturi tube check the air calibration,
shown in the figure.
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- Carefully clean the air holes shown in the
figure.
- Carefully clean the slow-running circuit, concentrating in the following points:
the air screw, the passage within the slow-running screw mechanism and the auxiliary
channel openings around the butterfly valve.
Note: The slow-running is controlled by two calibrations. That of the cut-off is obtained
directly in the carburetor.
- For the starter circuit, concentrate on the jet
duct, as the housing blocks the calibrated
holes, making them inaccessible.
- Thoroughly blow out the accelerator pump jet.
Note: The jet outlet is extremely small and
directed towards the butterfly valve. Proper
atomization will be prevented, if this jet is
directed otherwise.
- Check that on the carburetor there are five ball bearing seals pressed into the holes
machined in the carburetor body.
- Check that the two mating surfaces, between the float bowl and the diaphragm, are
unblemished.
- Check the butterfly valve and control arm.
- Check that the float valve housing channel shows no signs of scoring.
- Check that the valve seat shows no signs of abnormal or excessive wear.
- If any of the above defects are observed, replace the carburetor with a new one.
Note: Do not insert metal tools or instruments into the calibrated jets as these can cause
damage and alter the carburetion.
- Thoroughly clean and blow the slow-running jet and re-fit it.
- Thoroughly clean and blow the main supply circuit components, the atomizer, the
emulsion jet and the main jet.
- Insert the atomizer into the carburetor body with the shorter, cylindrical part facing the
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emulsifier.
- Re-fit the emulsion jet, ensuring the atomizer is correctly located, and tighten.
- Re-fit the main jet.
- Check there are no signs of wear on the sealing
surface of the float needle, the softened pin or
the return spring.
- If there are any signs of wear, replace the
needle with a new one.
- Check that the float shows no signs of wear on the hinge, or the metal tab in contact with
the float needle and check that fuel has not infiltrated the float.
- If there are any defects, replace the float with a new one.
- Re-fit the float, together with the needle, inserting the pin from the fuel inlet side.
Note: Ensure the return spring on the float tab is in the correct position.
10.11.10 Checking the Float Height
10.11.10.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor
- Holding the carburetor upside-down, check that
the float is parallel to the plane of the bowl.
- If found to be out of alignment, adjust by
bending the metal tab that controls the needle,
until corrected.
- When making adjustments to the metal tab,
ensure it remains parallel to the pin on which
the float hinges.
- Remove the float bowl drainage screw and then thoroughly clean and blow out the bowl,
paying particular attention in cleaning the accelerator pump ducts.
- Repeatedly actuate the accelerator pump piston and blow with compressed air.
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- Replace the accelerator pump valves in the
following sequences:
Intake valve (A):
Spring
Sphere
Nozzle
Delivery valve (M):
Sphere
Spring
Nozzle
Note: The delivery valve nozzle is provided with a
milling.
- Check the seal on the screw by introducing a
small amount of fuel into the float bowl.
- Re-fit the float bowl to the carburetor body,
using a new gasket and tightening the four
screws to the specified torque.
- Check that the throttle rocker arm rotates
freely onto its seat.
Note: Check that the gasket is inserted properly.
Note: Avoid excessively loading the accelerator
pump rocker arm control.
- Clean and blow the idle-speed flow screw.
- Check that the screw is free from oxidation
and/or deformations.
- Fit the spring onto the screw, as shown in the
picture.
- Tighten the flow screw onto the carburetor body and adjust its final position by carrying
out an exhaust gas analysis.
- Prepare the carburetor for adjustment with the screw loosened by two turns from its
closing position.
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10.11.10.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor
- Holding the carburetor upside-down, check that
the float is parallel to the plane of the bowl.
- If found to be out of alignment, adjust by
bending the metal tab that controls the needle,
until corrected.
- When making adjustments to the metal tab,
ensure it remains parallel to the pin on which
the float hinges.
Note: With the carburetor tilted upside-down, the
float must not overcome the load of the float pin
spring. If the float remains in position, check that
it is not burdened with fuel infiltrations. Replace
the float and/or pin as necessary.
- Thoroughly clean and blow the fuel conveying cap and insert it onto the starter jet.
Note: Failure to install this component results in worse cold starting performance, since the
starter jet draws old fuel from the bottom of the bowl.
- Remove the float bowl drainage screw and then
thoroughly clean and blow out the bowl, paying
particular attention in cleaning the accelerator
pump ducts.
- Repeatedly actuate the accelerator pump piston
and blow with compressed air.
- Check that the accelerator pump piston and
seat are free from wear. If worn, replace.
- Check that the accelerator pump piston spring
is not worn.
- Install a new O-ring and gasket; hence replace
the piston unit on the bowl.
- Install a new O-ring on the drainage screw and
tighten it.
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- Check the seal on the screw by introducing a
small amount of fuel into the float bowl.
- Re-fit the float bowl to the carburetor body,
using a new gasket and tightening the four
screws to the specified torque.
- Check that the throttle rocker arm rotates
freely onto its seat.
Note: Check that the gasket is inserted properly.
Note: Avoid excessively loading the accelerator
pump rocker arm control.
- Clean and blow the idle-speed flow screw.
- Check that the screw is free from oxidation
and/or deformations.
- Fit the spring onto the screw, as shown in the
picture.
- Tighten the flow screw onto the carburetor body and adjust its final position by carrying
out an exhaust gas analysis.
- Prepare the carburetor for adjustment with the screw loosened by two turns from its
closing position.
- Check that the accelerator pump control rocker
is free from abnormal wear.
- Check that the rocker travel end screw
protrudes by 0.126 in (3.2 mm).
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- Check that the rocker arm return spring is not
slackened.
Pre-assemble the spring and the rocker as shown
in the figure.
Install the rocker on the carburetor keeping the
throttle valve open.
Tighten the rocker fixing screw.
- Make sure that the gear works properly.
10.11.11 Checking the Vacuum Valve and the Needle
10.11.11.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor
- Ensure the vacuum valve float pin is free from
wear.
- Check that the vacuum valve exhibits no
scratched on the surface.
- Ensure that the vacuum feeding hole is not
clogged.
- Check that the membrane is not broken or
hardened, if not so, replace the entire valve.
- Insert the float pin into the vacuum valve seat.
- Replace the vacuum throttle valve on the
carburetor paying attention in inserting the
pinto into the atomizer.
Note: The valve can only be inserted in one
position.
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- Fit the spring with the pin lock.
- After ensuring that the spring is properly
positioned into the housing, fit the vacuum
chamber cover.
- Clean and blow the ambient pressure inlet filter
sponge.
- Fit the filter and its clamp as shown in the
figure.
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- Clean and blow out the choke device support.
- Install a new gasket onto the carburetor body
and tighten the two fixing screws.
10.11.11.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor
- Ensure the vacuum valve float pin is free from
wear and the lock is positioned at the third
notch.
- Check that the vacuum valve exhibits no
scratched on the surface.
- Ensure that the two vacuum feeding holes are
not clogged.
Note: The two holes have different diameters.
- Check that the membrane is not broken or
hardened, if not so, replace the entire valve.
- Insert the float pin into the vacuum valve seat.
- Replace the vacuum throttle valve on the
carburetor paying attention in inserting the
pinto into the atomizer.
Note: The valve can only be inserted in one
position.
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- Fit the spring with the pin lock.
- After ensuring that the spring is properly positioned into the housing, fit the vacuum
chamber cover.
- Clean and blow the ambient pressure inlet filter sponge.
- Check that the cut-off valve is in good condition
and that the membrane is not broken or
hardened.
- Check the unloaded length of the spring.
Standard dimension:
Spring 0.945 in
(24 mm)
- Fit the membrane with the metal pin positioned on the valve.
- Fit the spring and the cover. The cover must have the vacuum inlet facing upwards.
10.11.12 Checking the Automatic Choke Device
10.11.12.1 Kehin CVK 30 Carburetor
- Check that the piston (picture) exhibits no
scratches or oxidation and that it slides freely
into the seat.
- Check the unloaded length of the spring.
- Check that the piston sealing gasket exhibits
no deformations.
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- Measure the projection of the piston as shown
in the figure, and check the corresponding
value.
- Ensure that the starter settles at ambient
temperature.
Standard dimension:
Piston length @ 68°F (20°C) XX-XX in
(XX-XX mm)
- The choke should gradually disengage as it is
being heated electrically.
- Check the choke resistance at ambient
temperature.
Standard resistance:
Choke resistance @ 68°F (20°C) ~20 O
- Using a 12V battery, power the automatic choke and check that the piston reaches its
maximum protrusion.
Note: When performing this check do not generate any short-circuits. It is therefore
necessary to use a cable with suitable terminals.
- The effective heating time depends on the ambient temperature.
- If measured projection, resistance or time values are inconsistent with the prescribed
ones, replace the automatic choke assembly.
- Install the choke onto the carburetor checking
the proper positioning of the O-Ring, insert the
plate with the knurling resting against the
choke and tighten the fixing screw.
- Orientate the choke device as shown in the
figure.
- Install the safety casing
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10.11.12.2 Walbro WVF-7P Carburetor
- Check that the piston (picture) exhibits no
scratches or oxidation and that it slides freely
into the seat.
- Check the unloaded length of the spring.
- Check that the piston sealing gasket exhibits
no deformations.
- Measure the projection of the piston as shown
in the figure, and check the corresponding
value.
- Ensure that the starter settles at ambient
temperature.
Standard dimension:
Piston length @ 68°F (20°C) 0.492-0.512 in
(12.5-13.0 mm)
- The choke should gradually disengage as it is
being heated electrically.
- Check the choke resistance at ambient
temperature.
Standard resistance:
Choke resistance @ 68°F (20°C) ~40 O
- Using a 12V battery, power the automatic choke and check that the piston reaches its
maximum protrusion.
Note: When performing this check do not generate any short-circuits. It is therefore
necessary to use a cable with suitable terminals.
- The effective heating time depends on the ambient temperature.
- If measured projection, resistance or time values are inconsistent with the prescribed
ones, replace the automatic choke assembly.
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- Install the choke onto the carburetor checking
the proper positioning of the O- Ring, insert the
plate with the knurling resting against the
choke and tighten the fixing screw.
- Orientate the choke device as shown in the
figure.
- Install the safety casing
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10.12 Cooling System
10.12.1 Cooling Circuit
1 = Expansion tank 4 = Carburetor heating circuit
2 = LH radiator with electric fan 5 = Electric fan switch
3 = Thermostat with by-pass 6 = RH radiator
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10.12.2 Removing the Water Pump
- If the bearings are noisy or any liquid leaks
from the drain hole inside the cover, proceed
to overhaul the water pump.
- Remove the flywheel cover with the water
pump from the engine.
- Remove the impeller cover after unscrewing
the three fastenings shown in the figure.
- Position the flywheel cover on the ring-shaped base that is part of tool part no. 020440Y.
Specific tools and equipment:
Ring base 020440Y
Note: To prevent damage to the cover surface designed to ensure coolant tightness, use the
ring-shaped base with the accurately machined surface facing the flywheel cover.
- Using a press and the drift that is part of tool
no. 020440Y, eject the shaft complete with the
impeller from the drive and the bearing.
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- With the aid of a flat screwdriver, carefully
remove the static part of the ceramic seal from
the flywheel body.
- Place the flywheel cover under the press.
Ensure that the cover is perfectly horizontal.
- Using the drift in inverted position, eject the
two ball bearings.
10.12.3 Checking the Components
- Check that the impeller is not cracked or worn.
- Check that the impeller shaft is not oxidized.
- Check that no oxidation is present on the ceramic seal and bearing housings.
- Ensure that the drive is not cracked and that it is perfectly joined to the steel hub.
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10.12.4 Fitting the Water Pump
- Using the hot air gun, heat the flywheel cover
from the inside.
Specific tools and equipment:
Hot air gun 020151Y
Note: To prevent damage to the painted surface,
avoid overheating the cover.
- Place the flywheel cover on the ring-shaped
base as during the pump removal.
- Position the bearing pair on the specific drift.
Note: Always use new bearings. Use grease to
keep bearings on the specific tool.
- Drive the bearing fully home into the crankcase
using a plastic mallet.
- Assemble the ceramic ring with the rubber
gasket. The ceramic ring bevel must face the
gasket.
- Lubricate the rubber gasket and fit the
assembly to the flywheel cover.
- If necessary, use the drift from 020440Y only
by hand.
Note: Always use new ceramic rings and gaskets.
Failure to manually install the ceramic ring may
damage the ring.
- Insert the drive on the guiding pin of the
support base of the specific tool no. 020440Y.
Ensure that the convex side faces upwards.
Specific tools and equipment:
Punch 020440Y
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- Fit the flywheel cover, complete with bearings,
onto the specific tool.
- Fit the shaft, comp lete with the mechanical
seal, on the bearings.
- Using the specific drift and the press, insert the
shaft into the bearings and the drive until the
specific tool is felt to have reached its abutting
end.
Note: Carefully center the punch onto the
impeller. Apply force to the shaft and check that
the flywheel cover rotates horizontally. Failure to
observe this rule may result in damage to the
drive.
- Refit the impeller cover using a new O-ring.
- Tighten the three fixing screws at the
prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Impeller cover fixing screws 2.2-2.9 lbs·ft
(3-4 N·m)
Note: Do not lubricate the O-ring. Failure to
observe this rule results in distortion to the ring.
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10.12.5 Checking the Thermostat
- Visually check that the thermostat is not
damaged.
- Prepare a metal container with ~¼ gallon
(1 liter) of water.
- Immerse the thermostat and keep at the
center of the container.
- Dip the thermometer probe next to the
thermostat.
Specific tools and equipment: 1 = Thermostat
Digital multime ter 020331Y
- Heat the container by using the hot air gun.
Specific tools and equipment:
Hot air gun 020151Y
- Measure the temperature at which the
thermostat begins to open.
Standard temperature:
Thermostat opening 157.1-162.5°F
(69.5-72.5°C)
- Heat until the thermostat opens completely.
Standard dimension:
Thermostat opening 0.136 in
travel at 176°F (80° C) (3.5 mm)
Warning - To properly conduct the test, avoid
direct contact between thermostat and container,
and between thermometer and container.
- Replace the thermostat in case of malfunction.
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11 Suspensions
This section provides information on the operations that may be carried out on the suspensions.
Lubricate with oil Clean carefully
Lubricate with grease Caution: handle with care
Apply product Always replace
A B C D E F G
Qty 5 2 1 1 1 1 2
Torque
73-88 63-77 18-21
lbs·ft 104-126 90-110 25-30
(N·m)
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H I L M N O P Q
5 2 2 1 1 1 2 1
11.1 Removing and Refitting the Front Wheel
- Remove the five Allen screws shown in the
figure, fastening the wheel to the hub.
- For re-assembly, properly place the wheel onto
the front hub, and tighten the five screws at
the prescribed torque.
Tightening torque:
Wheel fixing screws 14.0-17.5 lbs·ft
(20-25 N·m)
11.2 Removing and Refitting the Rear Wheel
- Remove the silencer-rear shock absorber
bracket.
- Remove the five Allen screws shown in the
figure.
- For refitting, tighten the five screws at the
prescribed torque and reassemble the bracket.
Tightening torque:
Wheel fixing screws 14.0-17.5 lbs·ft
(20-25 N·m)
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11.3 Removing the Steering Column
- Remove the front wheel.
- Remove the front caliper.
- Loosen the odometer fixing plate screw to
remove the cable.
- Remove the suspension arm cover by releasing
the three screws shown in the figure.
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- Remove the odometer cable clamp from the
front mudguard, as shown in the figure.
- Remove the brake tube clamp from the top
plate of the shock absorber.
- Remove the brake tube fixing from the
suspension arm.
- Pre-loosen the three nuts fixing the mudguard
to the front suspension bracket.
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- Remove the rear handlebar cover.
- Remove the screw fixing the handlebar to the
steering column.
- Carefully rest the rear handlebar cover against
the leg-shield, paying attention not to scratch
any plastic parts.
- Remove the steering column ring nut cover.
- Remove the counter ring nut, the spacing
washer and the top steering column ball-cage
bearing seat ring nut.
- Extract the steering column and remove the
mudguard from the suspension.
Specific tools and equipment:
Steering column ring nut spanner 020055Y
- For re-assembly, follow the operations for removal in the reverse order, carefully applying
grease on the steering column ball-cage bearing seats and tightening at the prescribed
torques.
Tightening torques:
Upper ring nut 21-28 lbs·ft
(30-40 N·m)
Lower ring nut 6-7 lbs·ft
(8-10 N·m)
Handlebar-steering column 32-35 lbs·ft
(45-50 N·m)
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11.4 Removing the Front Wheel Hub
- Remove the front wheel.
- Remove the front brake caliper.
- Remove the split pin and the wheel axle nut
cap shown in the figure.
- Remove the wheel axle nut.
- Extract the wheel hub, complete with brake
disk, from its axle.
- For re-fitting, perform the operations for removal in the reverse order.
Tightening torque:
Wheel axle nut 53-63 lbs·ft
(75-90 N·m)
11.5 Front Wheel Hub Overhaul
- Remove the snap ring shown in the figure.
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- Using the specific tool, remove the ball
bearing.
Specific tools and equipment:
15mm pliers 001467Y014
Bell 001467Y017
- Using a flat screwdriver, remove the oil seal on
the roller bearing side.
- Using the specific tool, remove the roller
bearing.
Specific tools and equipment:
Handle 020376Y
Adapter 020456Y
0.787 in (20mm) guide 020363Y
- With the aid of the hot air gun, heat the roller
bearing seat.
- Using the specific tool, insert the bearing with
the screened side facing outwards and push it
home.
- Refit the snap ring.
Specific tools and equipment:
Handle 020376Y
1.7×1.8 in (42×47 mm) adapter 020359Y
0.591 in (15 mm) guide 020412Y
Hot air gun 020151Y
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- Using the specific tool, insert the roller case
and push it home.
- Refit the oil seal on the roller bearing side.
- Apply grease JOTA 3 FS between ball and roller
bearings.
Specific tools and equipment:
Punch 020038Y
11.6 Removing the Front Brake Caliper-Shock Absorber Bracket
- Remove the wheel hub and the brake disk.
- Remove the front shock absorber lower fixing
screw.
- Remove the bracket lock snap ring.
- Extract the bracket.
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- Before replacing the bracket into the wheel
axle, place the O-ring as shown in the figure, in
order to keep it properly positioned after the
bracket assembly.
- Refit the washer and the snap ring.
- Replace the screws fixing the shock absorber to
the bracket and tighten at the prescribed
torque.
Tightening torque:
Shock absorber lower fixing screw 14-19 lbs·ft
(20-27 N·m)
11.7 Front Brake Caliper-Shock Absorber Bracket Overhaul
- The caliper-shock absorber fixing bracket is
provided with two roller bearings spaced from
one another as shown in the figure.
- Remove the two roller bearings from the
bracket using the specific tool form the shock
absorber coupling side, as shown in the figure.
Specific tools and equipment:
Handle 020376Y
1.0×1.1 in (26×28 mm) adapter 020441Y
0.866 in (22 mm) guide 020365Y
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- Remove the oil guard on the wheel hub side
using a screwdriver, as shown in the figure.
- Suitably support the shock absorber-brake
caliper bracket.
- Using the specific tool, install a new oil seal
and push it home.
Specific tools and equipment:
Handle 020376Y
2.0×2.2 in (52×55 mm) adapter 020360Y
- Using the specific tool, install a new roller
bearing on the shock absorber side and push it
home.
Specific tools and equipment:
Punch 020036Y
- Suitably support the chock absorber-brake
caliper bracket.
- Using the specific tool, install a new roller
bearing on the wheel hub side and push it
home.
Specific tools and equipment:
Punch 020037Y
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11.8 Removing the Front Shock Absorber
- Remove the steering column.
- Remove the shock absorber lower fixing
screws.
- Remove the top shock absorber attachments.
- For re-assembly, perform the operations for removal in the reverse order and tighten at
the specified torque.
Tightening torque:
Shock absorber top fixing screw 14-21 lbs·ft
(20-30 N·m)
Shock absorber lower fixing screw 14-19 lbs·ft
(20-27 N·m)
11.9 Front Swing Arm Overhaul
- Remove the steering column.
- Remove the shock absorber- brake caliper
bracket.
- Using the special tool, fitted with part 1, as
shown in the figure, remove pin and roller cage
from their seat.
- To remove the second roller cage, fit the tool
with part 2, on the opposite side to that shown
in the figure.
Specific tools and equipment:
Front swing arm overhaul tool 020021Y
1 = Part 1
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Warning - Reassemble with new roller cases,
pins, oil seals and dust covers.
- Install the two dust covers «C» on the
oscillating hub as shown in detail "A".
- Connect the oscillating hub to the steering
column using the guide pin indicated as part 5.
- Fit the specific tool with the bearing, part 3,
onto the shaft and part 4 at its base.
- Grease the pin with Z2 grease and insert it
onto the oscillating arm. Operate the tool
handle until part 3 comes into contact with the
steering column.
- After fitting the pin insert the two spacers, part
17, using a mallet. C
Specific tools and equipment:
Front swing arm overhaul tool 020021Y
1=Detail "A"; 2=Part 5; 3=Part 4; 4=Part 3.
- Lubricate the oil seals with mineral oil and half-
fill the needle casings with the recommended
grease type Z2.
- Introduce the sealing ring on the pin and, at
the same time, the roller bushing with wedging
washer.
- Remove the specific tool, then part 5 (guide),
which was partially expelled in the preceding
fitting operation, while leaving part 4 fitted.
- Replace part 3 with part 16 on the shaft.
- Operating on the tool handle push the wedging
washer-needle casing-oil seal assembly until
part 16 is brought into contact with the
oscillating hub.
- For the fitting of the second wedging washer-
needle casing-oil seal assembly, repeat the
above operation with the tool still bearing part
16 and with part 22* instead of part 4 on the
side opposite to that shown in the figure.
1=Detail "B"; 2=Part 17; 3=Part 4; 4=Part 17;
Recommended tools and equipment: 5=Part 16
Front swing arm overhaul tool 020021Y
(*) supplied with tool 020021Y.
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- Use the tool fitted with parts 20 and 21 on its
shaft, as shown in the figure.
- Using the handle exert pressure until the
bottom of the two needle casings is brought
into contact with the pin end.
- Use the tool fitted with parts 3 and 4, as for
fitting the pin, and operate the handle to exert
pressure until the washers are wedged onto
the oscillating hub.
- Remove the spacers (part 17); fill the gap
between the steering column and the
oscillating hub with Z2 grease, then place the
dust covers in that space.
1=Part 20; 2=Part 17; 3=Part21
11.10 Steering Column Ball-Cage Bearings Overhaul
Note: This operation should be carried out exclusively in the case of extreme necessity and
new components must always be used during re-assembly.
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- Remove the steering column.
- Using the specific tool, remove the top steering
column bearing seat from underneath the
steering head, as shown in the figure. Then,
from the top, remove the lower steering
bearing seat.
Specific tools and equipment:
Steering bearing removing punch 020004Y
- Using the specific tool, remove the steering
column ball-cage bearing seat and the dust
cover on the steering column, as shown in the
figure. Use a mallet.
Specific tools and equipment:
Steering bearing removing punch 020004Y
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- Using the specific tool, replace the dust cover
and the steering column ball-cage bearing seat
on the steering tube to abutment.
Specific tools and equipment:
Steering bearing removing punch 006029Y
- Using the specific tool, install the steering
column ball-cage bearing seats on the head as
shown in the figure.
Specific tools and equipment:
Steering bearing seat installer 001330Y
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11.11 Removing the Rear Shock Absorber-Silencer Bracket
- Remove the silencer.
- Remove the two screws fixing the bracket to
the engine crankcase.
- Remove the split pin, the key cap, and the rear
wheel axle fixing nut with spacer.
- Remove the lower shock absorber fixing.
- For re-assembly, perform the operations for
removal in the reverse order, tightening each
fastener at the specified torque value.
Tightening torques:
Bracket-crankcase fixing screw 14-18 lbs·ft
(20-25 N·m)
Shock absorber lower fixing screw 23-29 lbs·ft
(33-41 N·m)
Wheel axle nut 73-88 lbs·ft
(104-126 N·m)
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11.12 Rear Shock Absorbers
11.12.1 Removing the Rear Shock Absorbers
- Rest the vehicle on its central stand.
- Remove the rear rack.
- Using a jack, slightly lift the engine off the
ground so to unload the rear suspensions.
- Remove the silencer.
- Loosen both lower shock absorber fastening
bolts (on crankcase and crankcase-silencer
bracket).
- Loosen the two top shock absorber fastening
screws (top picture on the right) and remove
both shock absorbers.
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11.12.2 Refitting the Rear Shock Absorbers
- Perform the operations for removal in the reverse order, and tighten all fasteners
according to the prescribed tightening torques.
Tightening torques:
Shock absorber lower fixing bolt 23-29 lbs·ft
(33-41 N·m)
Shock absorber top fixing screw 14-18 lbs·ft
(20-25 N·m)
11.13 Central Stand
- Suitably support the vehicle with a jack.
- Remove the two stand-return springs.
- Loosen the nut indicated in the figure.
- Remove the RH pin.
- Remove the central stand.
- Upon reassembly, tighten the nut at the
prescribed torque.
Tightening torques:
Central stand fastening bolt 18-21 lbs·ft
(25-30 N·m)
11.14 Inspecting the Rear Swing Arm
- Rest the vehicle on its central stand.
- Remove the air cleaner box.
- Remove the screw fixing the oscillating arm to
the engine as shown in the figure.
- Push the engine backwards.
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- Remove the spring anchoring the swing arm to
the frame, as shown in the figure.
- Remove the two screws fixing the pad support
bracket to the frame.
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- Remove the RH and LH caps located under the
footrest to access the pin fixing the swing arm
to the body.
- Carefully inspect the whole of the swing
assembly.
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- Carefully inspect centering bushes, rubber pads, and silent block.
- Replace worn components found to exhibit excessive play, resulting in unsatisfactory
riding characteristics.
- For reassembly, perform these operations in the reverse order.
- Apply TUTELA Z2 grease on all bearings and revolving components.
- Complete the assembly tightening the nuts onto the relevant pins at the correct tightening
torques.
Tightening torques:
Swing arm bolt, engine side 45-50 lbs·ft
(64-72 N·m)
Swing arm bolt, frame side 53-58 lbs·ft
(76-83 N·m)
Silent-block - frame bracket screw 29-36 lbs·ft
(42-52 N·m)
Swing arm bolt, 23-29 lbs·ft
engine and frame side (33-41 N·m)
11.15 Swing Arm Overhaul
- Check that the silent-block is not broken.
Replace if necessary.
- Remove the snap ring shown in the figure.
- Remove the bracket and the silent-block.
- Remove the silent-block ring shown in the
figure.
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- Suitably support the bracket and the silent-
block in a vice.
- Using the specific tool, extract the silent-block
from the bracket on the frame side. This is to
ensure that the tool is centered with respect to
the support.
- Install a new silent-block ensuring the
alignment with the reference tooth.
- Fit the silent-block by properly matching the
silent-block chamfering with that of the
bracket.
- Using the specific tool, install the silent-block
as shown in the figure.
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11.16 Silent-Block Overhaul
- Check that there are no dents on the joint
connecting the swing arm on the engine side to
the swing arm on the frame side.
- Check the axial clearance between the two
swing arms using a thickness gauge.
Standard clearance: 0.016-0.024 in
(0.40-0.60 mm)
Max. allowable clearance: 0.059 in
(1.50 mm)
- To check the clearance on the frame -side arm,
prepare the assembly using the frame-side bolt
and the two spacers from tool no. 020229Y.
Alternatively, use two standard washers for
Ø 0.472 in (12 mm) bolts and minimum
external diameter and thickness of Ø 1.181 in
(30 mm) and 0.157 in (4 mm).
- Check that the rotation is smooth.
- Check the axial of the swing arm on the frame-
side.
Standard clearance: 0.016-0.024 in
(0.40-0.60 mm)
Max. allowable clearance: 0.059 in
(1.50 mm)
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- Separate the swing arm on the engine-side
from the swing on the frame -side.
- Remove the plastic bushes and the internal
spacer shown in the figure.
- Using a suitable pin, remove the roller cases as
shown in the figure.
- Using the specific tool, fit new cases being
careful to position bearings with sealing rings
facing outwards.
Specific tools and e quipment:
∅ 0.59 in (15 mm) punch for
engine-side swing arm cases 020244Y
∅ 0.71 in (18 mm) punch for
engine-side swing arm cases 020115Y
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Standard dimensions:
+0.0 0 8 +0.20
Engine-side swing arm tube length 6.902 0.0 0 0 ( 175.3 − 0.00 )
0.0 0 0 0.00
Engine-side internal swing arm spacer length 7.210 −0.0 0 8 ( 183 − 0.20 )
Engine-side swing arm plastic bushes diameter 0.138 ±0.0 0 2 ( 3.5 ±0.05 )
Frame -side swing arm tube length 11 .142 ±0. 0 0 4 ( 283 ±0.1 )
Frame -side internal swing arm spacer length 11 .417 ±0. 0 0 4 ( 290 ±0.1 )
Frame -side swing arm plastic bushes diameter 0.138 ±0.0 0 2 ( 3.5 ±0.05 )
- Use TUTELA Z2 to grease the roller cases and
the plastic bushes.
- Insert the spacers.
- Assemble the two arms with the relevant bolt
in the position shown in the figure.
- Orientate the bolt as shown in the figure.
- Place the swing arm on the frame -side with the
most protruding part facing the silent-block as
shown in the figure.
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12 Bodywork
12.1 Removing the Seat
- Remove the helmet compartment.
- Loosen the two screws shown in the picture.
- Remove the seat.
12.2 Removing the Steering Column Cover
- Remove the “PIAGGIO” badge.
- Loosen the screw shown in the picture.
- Carefully pull the cover.
12.3 Removing the Front Handlebar Cover
- Remove the steering column cover.
- Loosen the screw shown in the picture.
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- Loosen the two screws shown in the figure.
- Remove the front handlebar cover.
- Carefully detach the headlight connections.
12.4 Removing the Rear Handlebar Cover
- Remove the front handlebar cover.
- Loosen the four screws shown in the picture.
- Detach the speedometer cable.
- Detach all electrical connections and remove
the rear handlebar cover.
12.5 Removing the Instrument Panel
- Remove the rear handlebar cover.
- Loosen the four screws shown in the picture.
- Remove the instrument panel.
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12.6 Removing the Glove-box Panel
- Remove the rear handlebar cover.
- Loosen the two screws shown in the picture,
from the front leg-shield.
- Remove the expansion tank cover and its cap.
- Loosen the screw shown in the picture,
positioned inside the glove-box compartment.
- Loosen the two screws shown in the picture,
positioned underneath the two side covers.
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- Loosen the four screws shown in the picture,
positioned at the bottom of the glove-box
panel.
- Detach the seat opening electrical connection,
the fuse holder, and the seat opening cable.
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12.7 Removing the Battery Compartment Cover
- Loosen the four screws shown in the picture.
12.8 Removing the Side Fairings
- Loosen the two screws shown in the picture
and remove the fairing. Follow the same
operation for both left and right hand-side.
12.9 Removing the Footrest
- Remove the glove-box panel.
- Remove the battery compartment cover.
- Remove the side fairings.
- Loosen the screw shown in the picture,
positioned in the battery compartment.
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- Remove both pillion pegs by loosening the two
screws (on each side) shown in the picture.
- Loosen the two (LH and RH) footrest fixing
screws.
- Remove the two (LH and RH) lower plastic
covers by loosening the screw as shown in the
picture.
- Remove the screws positioned underneath the
rubber mat, as shown in the picture.
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12.10 Removing the Luggage Carrier
- Remove the helmet compartment.
- Loosen the two screws shown in the picture
and remove the luggage carrier cover.
- Loosen the six fixing screws shown in the
figures and remove the luggage carrier.
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12.11 Removing the Taillight
- Loosen the two license plate light fixing screws
shown in the figure, and remove the plastic
flap.
- Loosen the two fixing screws shown in the
picture and remove the taillight.
12.12 Removing the Helmet Compartment
- Open the seat and lift the helmet compartment
bay.
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12.13 Removing the Front Fender
- In order to remove the front fender, it is
necessary to remove the steering column and
disconnect the front brake tube from the
caliper.
- The fender can then be removed by loosening
the three fixing screws shown in the picture.
12.14 Removing the Fuel Tank
- Remove the helmet compartment.
- Remove the right hand-side plastic fairing.
- Remove the exhaust pipe.
- Remove the luggage carrier.
- Remove the top shock absorber fixing screws.
- Loosen the two fuel tank fixing screws, shown
in the figure, from the frame.
- Detach the fuel level indicator cable, shown in
the figure.
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- After removing the taillight, loosen the fuel
tank-frame fixing screw shown in the figure.
- Remove the fuel tap clamps shown in the
figure.
- Remove the rear turn signal lights.
- Lift the vehicle in order to obtain enough
clearance between frame and engine such to
remove the fuel tank from underneath the
frame.
- To reassemble the fuel tank, follow the above
operations in the reverse order.
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12.15 Removing the Radiators and the Cooling Fan
- Before acting on the radiators, drain the
cooling circuit by disconnecting the liquid inlet
tube from the pump.
- Remove the glove-box panel.
- Disconnect the inlet and outlet tubes from the
RH radiator.
- Loosen the radiator fixing screws shown in the
figure.
- Remove the radiator.
- Detach the cooling liquid tube from the plastic
air conveying vent. Hence remove the
conveying vent.
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- Follow the same procedure for the LH radiator,
although, in this case, it is necessary to
remove the electric fan by loosening the three
screws shown in the figure.
- When reassembling the radiators, follow the operations described above in the reverse
order, paying particular attention in using new clamps for all the cooling liquid piping
connections and in properly refilling the cooling circuit.
12.16 Removing the Rear Mudguard
- Remove the air filter.
- Loosen the fixing screw shown in the picture.
- Remove the mudguard.
12.17 Removing the Turn Signal Lights
- Loosen the screw shown in the figure and
remove the front turn signal light.
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- Loosen the screw shown in the figure and
remove the rear turn signal light.
12.18 Removing the Electrical Opening Seat System
- Remove the helmet compartment.
- Loosen the two nuts shown in the figure.
- Detach the electrical cable from the clamps
shown in the figure.
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- Remove the seat opening cable.
- Remove the seat opening cable manual control.
- Detach the electrical connector from the seat
opening actuator.
- Loosen the two screws shown in the figure.
- Remove the return spring.
- Remove the actuator from the support bracket.
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13 Pre-Delivery Inspections
Before deliverying the vehicle, carry out the following checks:
Caution – Handle gasoline with the utmost care.
13.1 Checking the Vehicle Appearance
Paintwork
Plastic fairing joins
Scratches or dents
Dirtiness
13.2 Checking the Tightening Torques
Check all tightening torques
Check external fairing screws
13.3 Checking the Electrical Circuit
Charge the battery with a suitable battery charger
Ignition switch
Lights: headlight (high/low beam), taillight, and warning lights on instrument panel
Brake light and brake light switches (front and rear)
Turn signal lights (front and rear), and warning lights on instrument panel
Instrument panel light, fuel and cooling liquid temperature indicators
Horn
Electric starter
Emergency engine cut-off switch
Electrical seat opening button
Warning – The battery must be charged before use to ensure optimal performance. An
inadequate electrolyte level will result in a premature failure of the battery.
Warning – When installing the battery on the vehicle connect the positive lead before the
negative lead.
Caution – Battery electrolyte contains sulphuric acid. Battery electrolyte is poisonous and
causes severe burns. Avoid contact with the eyes, skin, and clothes.
In case of contact with the eyes and/or skin, abundantly wash the affected area with clean
water for about 15 minutes and seek immediate medical attention.
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In case of ingestion of electrolyte, drink water or vegetable oil and seek immediate medical
attention.
Batteries produce explosive gases; keep the battery well away from open flames, sparks or
cigarettes.
Ensure there is adequate ventilation when charging batteries in closed areas.
Protect the eyes when working with batteries or in their immediate vicinity.
KEEP BATTERIES AWAY FROM CHILDREN
Warning – Never use a fuse with a higher rating that the prescribed value. The use of
unsuitably rated fuses can result in widespread damage to the vehicle, including fire.
13.4 Checking the Levels
Brake fluid
Rear hub
Engine oil
Cooling liquid
13.5 Road Test
Cold start
Instruments
Throttle response
Vehicle stability in acceleration and braking
Front and rear brake efficiency
Front and rear suspension efficiency
Anomalous noises
13.6 Static Test
Restart with engine warm
Automatic choke device
Idle
Correct and smooth steering
Leaks
Electric fan
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13.7 Functional Check
Brake lever travel and braking circuit
Clutch
Engine
Other: documents inspection, toolkit, license plate, locks, tires inflation pressure, mirrors and
accessories
Warning – Check and adjust the tire inflation pressure only when the tires are at ambient
temp erature.
Warning – Over-inflated tires can burst. Never exceed the prescribed inflation pressure.
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14 Time Sheets
14.1 Engine
Description Op. Code Time
Engine from the frame -
Dismantling and 1 001001 80'
Reassembling
Engine oil - Replacement 2 003064 10'
Engine fixing - Nut
3 003057 10'
tightening
14.2 Crankcase
Description Op. Code Time
Half crankcase gasket -
1 001153 140'
Replacement
Engine crankcase -
2 001133 200'
Replacement
14.3 Crankshaft
Description Op. Code Time
Flywheel-side oil seal -
1 001099 40'
Replacement
Engine crankshaft -
2 001117 160'
Replacement
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14.4 Piston-Cylinder Assembly
Description Op. Code Time
Piston-cylinder assy. -
1 001002 130'
Replacement
Piston-Rings-Wrist Pin
2 001154 130'
Assembly - Overhaul
14.5 Cylinder Head and Valves
Description Op. Code Time
Cylinder Head Assembly 1 001126 130'
- Replacement
Valves - Replacement 2 001045 130'
Valves - Adjustment 3 001049 40'
Head Gasket - 4 001056 120'
Replacement
Thermistore - 5 001083 15'
Replacement
Thermostat - 6 001057 20'
Replacement
14.6 Camshaft
Description Op. Code Time
Valve rockers -
1 001148 120'
Replacement
Camshaft - Replacement 2 001044 120'
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14.7 Valve Cover
Description Op. Code Time
Spark plug -
1 001093 15'
Replacement
Head cover -
2 001089 40'
Replacement
Head cover gasket -
3 001088 40'
Replacement
Oil vapor recovery pipe -
4 001074 10'
Replacement
14.8 Chain T ensioner - By-Pass Valve
Description Op. Code Time
Chain tensioner -
Overhaul and 1 001129 10'
Replacement
Lubrication by-pass
2 001124 30'
valve - Replacement
14.9 Oil Filter
Description Op. Code Time
Oil filter - Replacement 1 001123 10'
Oil pressure sensor -
2 001160 40'
Replacement
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14.10 Driven Pulley
Description Op. Code Time
Clutch - Replacement 1 001022 30'
Driven pulley - Overhaul 2 001012 45'
Driven pulley -
3 001110 30'
Replacement
Clutch drum -
4 001155 20'
Replacement
14.11 Pump Assembly - Oil Sump
Description Op. Code Time
Chain guide shoe -
1 001125 140'
Replacement
Timing belt/chain -
2 001051 140'
Replacement
Oil pump - Overhaul 3 001042 70'
Oil pump - Replacement 4 001112 60'
Oil pump chain -
5 001122 60'
Replacement
Oil sump - Replacement 6 001130 30'
Chain cover port -
7 001172 30'
Replacement
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14.12 Rear Wheel Axle
Description Op. Code Time
Reduction gear assy. -
1 001010 85'
Overhaul
Reduction gear cover -
2 001156 60'
Replacement
Gearbox oil -
3 003065 15'
Replacement
Rear wheel axle -
4 004125 45'
Replacement
14.13 Driving Pulley
Description Op. Code Time
Driving half-pulley -
1 001086 25'
Replacement
Driving belt -
2 001011 25'
Replacement
Driving pulley - Removal
3 001066 25'
and reassembly
Driving pulley - Overhaul 4 001006 25'
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14.14 Electric Starter
Description Op. Code Time
Starter motor -
1 001020 30'
Replacement
Starter pinion -
2 001017 25'
Replacement
Belt support roller -
3 001141 20'
Replacement
14.15 Kick-Starter, Transmission Cover, and Transmission Cooling
Description Op. Code Time
Transmission cover
1 001135 25'
bearing - Replacement
Transmission cover -
2 001096 20'
Replacement
Transmission air inlet -
3 001131 20'
Replaceme nt
14.16 Transmission Cooling Air Inlet
Description Op. Code Time
Transmission air inlet
1 001132 10'
pipe - Replacement
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14.17 Flywheel Magneto
Description Op. Code Time
Flywheel cover -
1 001087 60'
Replacement
Water pump, pump
2 001113 50'
impeller - Replacement
Stator - Removal and
3 001067 45'
reassembly
Complete flywheel -
4 001058 45'
Replacement
Secondary air filter -
5 001161 30'
Replacement
Secondary air filter box -
6 001162 30'
Replacement
Rotor - Replacement 7 001173 45'
14.18 Carburetor
Description Op. Code Time
Intake manifold -
1 001013 10'
Replacement
Carburetor heating pipes
2 007020 20'
- Replacement
Carburetor - Overhaul 3 001008 30'
Carburetor -
4 001063 20'
Replacement
Automatic choke -
5 001081 15'
Replacement
Carburetor - Adjustment 6 003058 10'
Exhaust emissions -
7 001136 20'
Adjustment
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14.19 Air Filter
Description Op. Code Time
Air filter -
1 001014 20'
Replacement/Cleaning
Air filter box -
2 001015 15'
Replacement
Carburetor-air box
3 004122 20'
bellow - Replacement
14.20 Silencer
Description Op. Code Time
Silencer - Replacement 1 001009 15'
Silencer protection-
2 001095 10'
Replacement
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14.21 Frame
Description Op. Code Time
Frame - Replacement 1 004001 240'
Fairing (1) -
2 004085 5'
Replacement
Horn - Replacement 3 004149 5'
Spoiler - Replacement 4 004053 5'
Passenger footrest -
5 004015 5'
Removal and reassembly
Shield edge -
6 004023 45'
Replacement
Badges - Replacement 7 004159 10'
14.22 Central Stand
Description Op. Code Time
Side stand -
1
Replacement (non-US)
Central stand -
2 004004 10'
Replacement
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14.23 Footrest and Battery
Description Op. Code Time
Battery - Replacement 1 005007 20'
Footrest - Replacement 2 004079 40'
Battery compartment -
3 004071 10'
Replacement
Battery cover -
4 005046 5'
Replacement
Footrest rubber -
5 004078 5'
Replacement
14.24 Glove-Box
Description Op. Code Time
Glove-box - Replacement 1 004083 25'
Glove-box flap -
2 004081 25'
Replacement
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14.25 Helmet Compartment and Rear Fender
Description Op. Code Time
Rear fender -
1 004136 15'
Replacement
Helmet compartme nt -
2 004016 5'
Removal and reassembly
Plate holder -
3 005048 10'
Replacement
14.26 Front Fender and Rear Mudguard
Description Op. Code Time
Front fender -
1 004002 45'
Replacement
Rear mudguard -
2 004009 20'
Replacement
Front suspension cover -
3 003044 10'
Replacement
14.27 Fuel Tank
Description Op. Code Time
Fuel tank - Replacement 1 004005 50'
Tank float - Replacement 2 005010 45'
Fuel tank bleed -
3 004109 10'
Replacement
Fuel tap - Replacement 4 004007 10'
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14.28 Cooling System
Description Op. Code Time
Radiator - Replacement 1 007002 35'
Fan with support -
2 007016 30'
Replacement
Expansion tank -
3 007001 40'
Replacement
Thermo -switch -
4 007014 55'
Replacement
Tank-radiator pipe -
5 007013 40'
Replacement
Coolant pipe -
6 007003 60'
Replacement
Coolant and air vent -
7 001052 20'
Replacement
14.29 Fuel Pump
Description Op. Code Time
Fuel pump -
1 004073 15'
Replacement
Fuel pump-tank tube -
2 004089 10'
Replacement
Fuel filter- Replacement 3 004072 10'
Vacuum fuel pump tube
4 004086 10'
- Replacement
Pump-carburetor tube -
5 004086 10'
Replacement
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14.30 Steering Column
Description Op. Code Time
Steering column ball-
cage bearings - 1 003002 60'
Replacement
Steering column play -
2 003073 25'
Adjustment
14.31 Front Suspension
Description Op. Code Time
Front shock absorber -
1 003011 20'
Removal and reassembly
Steering column -
2 003045 60'
Replaceme nt
Front suspension -
3 003010 100'
Overhaul
Brake caliper/suspension
4 003035 25'
bracket - Replacement
Front wheel hub bearings
5 003034 40'
- Replacement
Odometer reel -
6 001064 15'
Replacement
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14.32 Rear suspension
Description Op. Code Time
Rear shock absorber -
1 003007 20'
Removal and reassembly
14.33 Handlebar Covers
Description Op. Code Time
Handlebar cover, front
1 004018 15'
side - Replacement
Handlebar cover, back
2 004019 20'
side - Replacement
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14.34 Handlebar, and Brake and Throttle Controls
Description Op. Code Time
Handlebar - Removal
1 003001 45'
and reassembly
Front brake pump -
2 002024 35'
Replacement
Rear brake pump -
3 002024 35'
Replacement
Brake light switch -
4 005017 20'
Replacement
LH handgrip -
5 002059 10'
Replacement
RH handgrip -
6 002071 10'
Replacement
Counterweight -
7 003059 5'
Replacement
Throttle sleeve -
8 002060 30'
Replacement
Complete throttle cable-
9 002063 50'
Replacement
Throttle cable -
10 003061 10'
Adjustment
Brake lever -
11 002037 15'
Replacement
14.35 Swing Arm
Description Op. Code Time
Engine/Frame swing arm
1 001072 50'
- Replacement
Silent-block -
2 004058 60'
Replacement
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14.36 Brakes
Description Op. Code Time
Rear brake pads - Wear
1 003071 5'
check
Front brake pads - Wear
2 003070 5'
check
Front brake caliper -
3 002040 60'
Overhaul
Front brake caliper -
4 020039 20'
Removal and reassembly
Rear brake caliper -
5 002048 35'
Removal and reassembly
Rear brake caliper -
6 002068 50'
Overhaul
Front brake tube -
7 002021 45'
Removal and reassembly
Rear brake tube -
8 002020 50'
Removal and reassembly
Rear brake pads -
9 002002 30'
Removal and reassembly
Front brake pads -
10 002007 15'
Removal and reassembly
Front brake fluid -
11 002047 15'
Replacement
Rear brake fluid -
12 002080 15'
Replacement
282
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14.37 Saddle and Rear Rack
Description Op. Code Time
Saddle - Replacement 1 004003 10'
Rack - Replacement 2 004008 10'
Rack cover -
3 004062 5'
Replacement
14.38 Locks and Immobilizer
Description Op. Code Time
Saddle opening cable -
1 002083 45'
Replacement
Lock cable for saddle
2 002092 20'
opening - Replacement
Lock for saddle opening -
3 004158 20'
Replacement
Immobilizer antenna -
4 005072 30'
Replacement
Electric device for saddle
5 005099 20'
opening - replacement
Saddle lock -
6 004054 10'
Replacement
Steering lock -
7 004010 35'
Replacement
Ignition switch -
8 005016 35'
Replacement
283
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14.39 Mirrors, Electric Controls, and Instrument Panel
Description Op. Code Time
Rearview mirror -
1 004066 5'
Replacement
Instrument panel -
2 005014 20'
Replacement
Start button -
3 005041 20'
Replacement
Engine cut-off switch -
4 005077 20'
Replacement
Turn signal switch -
5 005006 20
replacement
Horn button -
6 005040 20'
Replacement
Saddle opening button -
7 005121 25'
Replacement
Ignition switch -
8 005039 20'
Replacement
Lights switch -
9 005078 25'
Replacement
Panel warning lights -
10 005038 10'
Replacement
Clock/battery -
11 005076 15'
Replacement
284
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14.40 Lights
Description Op. Code Time
Headlight - Replacement 1 005002 15'
Taillight - Replacement 2 005005 10'
License plate light -
3 005032 10'
Replacement
Front turn signal bulb -
4 005067 5'
Replacement
Headlight bulb -
5 005008 10'
Replacement
Taillight bulb -
6 005066 10'
Replacement
Plate light bulb -
7 005031 10'
Replacement
Brake light bulb -
8 005090 10'
Replacement
Rear turn signal bulb -
9 005068 5'
Replacement
Rear turn signal light -
10 005022 5'
Replacement
Front turn signal light -
11 005012 5'
Replacement
Turn signal lens -
12 005091 5'
Replacement
285
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14.41 Electrical Device s
Description Op. Code Time
Spark plug cap -
1 001094 10'
Replacement
H.T. coil - Replacement 2 001069 15'
Horn - Replacement 3 005003 10'
Odometer/Speedometer
4 002049 20'
cable - Replacement
Electronic ignition device
5 001023 40'
- Replacement
Voltage regulator -
6 005009 20'
Replacement
Electrical circuit -
7 005001 120'
Replacement
Electrical circuit -
8 005114 30'
Overhaul
Headlight relay -
9 005035 15'
Replacement
Starting relay -
10 005011 15'
Replacement
Fuse holder -
11 005054 25'
Replacement
Fuse holder board -
12 005019 25'
Replacement
Complete
odo/speedometer cable - 13 002051 40'
Replacement
Battery fuse -
14 005024 10'
Replacement
Battery fuse holder -
15 002025 10'
Replacement
286
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14.42 Front Wheel
Description Op. Code Time
Front brake disk -
1 002041 25'
Replacement
Front wheel hub -
2 003033 25'
Replacement
Front wheel -
3 004123 10'
Replacement
Front wheel rim -
4 003037 15'
Removal and reassembly
Front tire - Replacement 5 003047 15'
Front tire - Check 6 003063 5'
14.43 Rear Wheel
Description Op. Code Time
Rear wheel -
1 001016 20'
Replacement
Rear tire - Replacement 2 004126 25'
Rear wheel rim -
3 001071 25'
Removal and reassembly
Rear brake disk -
4 002070 35'
Replacement
Silencer-suspension
support bracket - 5 003077 25'
Replacement
Rear wheel hub -
6 002028 35'
Replacement
Rear tire pressure -
7 003063 5'
Check
287
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