History, Material Culture and Auspicious Events at The Purple Cloud: Buddhist Monasticism at Quanzhou Kaiyuan
History, Material Culture and Auspicious Events at The Purple Cloud: Buddhist Monasticism at Quanzhou Kaiyuan
                          Brian J. Nichols
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Doctor of Philosophy
                               x,                 C_
                            Anne C. Klein, Advisor
                            Professor, Religious Studies
                            RicharaXamith
                            George & Nancy Rupp Professor of Humanities and
                            Praressor of History
Rice University
Houston, TX
                              April 2011
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                                       ABSTRACT
Brian J. Nichols
Southeast coast of China, in Fujian. It was founded in the seventh century and survives
with artifacts from every imperial dynasty stretching back more than one thousand years.
Today it is the home of more than eighty monks and the site of a vibrant tradition of
devotional life. The following chapters examine Kaiyuan monastery from multiple points
of view (time, space, inhabitants and activities, discourse and relations with the state) in
element to the religious and institutional life of the monastery. In shedding light on
monastic Buddhism in contemporary China, this study contributes to a small but growing
The study begins with a historical survey of the monastery providing the context
in which to understand the current recovery. Subsequent chapters chronicle the dual
interplay of secular and non-secular forces that contribute to the monastery's identity as a
place of religious practice for monastics, laypersons and worshipers and a site of tourism
and leisure for a steady stream of visitors. I survey the stages of recovery following the
Cultural Revolution (chapter four) as well as the religious life of the monastery today
(chapter five). Other chapters examine how material culture (chapter six) and memorials
to auspicious events and eminent monks (chapter seven) contribute to the identity of the
monastery. Chapters eight and nine consider how Kaiyuan balances demands to
accommodate tourists while remaining a place of religious practice.
                                                                      111
For Jamie, Charles and William
                            IV
                              ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
       I want to first thank the late Roger Corless, an important condition of possibility
leading to my decision to study Buddhism at the graduate level; my study of East Asian
religions began with an undergraduate course at Duke with the always witty Roger. I also
I wish to thank my in-laws Yang Hongwei and Zhang Huailin for facilitating our
Bureau Religion who first suggested that I visit Quanzhou to learn more about its diverse
religious heritage. This introduction and Mr. Yu's suggestion set in motion a five year
project, the fruits of which you are now reading. Mr. Yu provided the formal introduction
to Quanzhou Kaiyuan that enabled me to stay there and conduct research. I also wish to
thank the monks at Kaiyuan for hosting me and, at times, my family, especially the abbot
Daoyuan iSjC, and Fayi £fe—, Desheng Hi If- and Benzhi ^-%t-. My research in
Quanzhou was advanced by the monks at Kaiyuan as well as many other individuals
associated with the monastery and in the city of Quanzhou. Deserving special mention are
Huang Yushan ]IC3ILL| and Cai Qicheng H ^ M ; two dedicated enthusiasts for all things
Quanzhou Kaiyuan. I also thank layperson Dazhuo ;fc#tj in Beijing for his assistance in
My research was funded by generous grants from the Fulbright Program and the
Asian Cultural Council and I am heartily thankful for their support. The Asian Cultural
Council funded three months of research in China and the Fulbright grant funded ten
months of research and four months of intensive language study at the Inter-University
Program for Chinese language studies at Tsinghua University (IUP ) in Beijing.
I would like to thank all my teachers at IUP, especially, Wang Qian Hifjf, Hua
Kuoman ^#|S)M and GongWei MM. and the director of studies Li Yun ^ $ E . I would
also like to thank the professors with whom I studied during the Summer Program in
Beijing and Tzu-Chi University: Chen Jinhua, James Robson, Antonello Palumbo, Lothar
Ledderose and Tansen Sen. Each of these professors furthered my insight into the history
of Chinese Buddhism.
I also owe a debt of gratitude to Dr. Ven. Yifa for organizing the Woodenfish
many scholars conducting research on many aspects of Buddhism such as Mario Poceski,
Douglas Gildow, Brooks Jessup, Shi Huifeng, Justin Whitaker, Stephen Flanigan, Chin
Hock Lee, Peter Romaskiewicz, Shuman Chen and Chuanjue; they've all contributed in
of Buddhist sites together and met with many monastic leaders; this provided me with
Among the many individuals in China who assisted in this project in one way or
another I would like to mention Zhou Shurong JRJ^SS^ of the Fujian provincial office of
the Chinese Buddhist Association; Benxing ^'14, abbot of Fuzhou Kaiyuan Temple;
anthropology and history respectively at Xiamen University (Xiada) and Chris White, a
Ph.D. student at Xiada. I was fortunate to meet Kenneth Dean while we were both in
Xiamen and John Lagerwey in Hong Kong; they are two pioneers in the study of religion
                                                                                                vi
in contemporary Fujian and offered helpful advice and encouragement.
panel at the Montreal AAR (2009) on the Buddhist revival in contemporary China. I
benefited from the participation of Gareth as well as that of Thomas Borchert, Xiaofei
Kang and Charles Jones. It was also in Montreal that I met Mayfair Yang; I enjoyed and
I would like to thank Stefania Travagnin for inviting me to co-organize with her a
panel on Buddhism in twentieth century China. I benefited from the feedback provided by
Jason Clower, Douglass Gildow and others in attendance at the History of Twentieth
Century China Conference in Philadelphia, 2009. Dr. Travagnin has also been kind
enough to read several of my chapters and offer helpful suggestions. Also reading parts of
the dissertation and offering their expert advice have been Eyal Aviv, Gareth Fisher and
my colleague from Rice, Jianying. I also thank the scholar of medieval Quanzhou, Hugh
medieval history. They have each contributed to making this a better dissertation. I also
benefitted from Dr. Nanxiu Qian's proofreading of an early section of my translation; her
I would like to thank my advisor, Anne Klein, and the other members of my
dissertation committee, Rich Smith, Jeff Kripal and Susan Huang, for the guidance they
have offered throughout this project. Their suggestions and advice have dramatically
improved this dissertation and all errors and problems that remain are solely the
responsibility of the author. 1 also thank the department of Religious Studies at Rice
University for its support throughout my graduate career. Many people have contributed
to my time at Rice both professionally and personally among whom I would like to
                                                                                            vii
mention Dr. Klein, David Gray, Dr. Kripal, William Parsons, Shi Jianying, Stephen Finley
Last, and certainly not least, I'm grateful for the love and support of my family—
above all my wife, Jamie, who has remained a constant source of joy and support over the
                                                                                      vm
                             TABLE OF CONTENTS
Abstract                                                                          ii
Acknowledgements                                                                  v
Table of Contents                                                                 ix
List of Figures                                                                   x
Bibliography 449
APPENDICES
I. Cosmopolitan Quanzhou during the Medieval Period                               474
11. Translation of the Record of Kaiyuan Monastery (Quanzhou kaiyuansi zhi) ...   480
III. Images: monastery, monks, rituals, laypersons                                571
                                 LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1: The main gate                                                                571
Figure 2: Outside the main hall on a lunar twenty-sixth                                572
Figure 3: Interior of the main hall                                                    572
Figure 4: Central Buddha flanked by Ananda (L.) and Sariptura (R.)                     573
Figure 5: Sheng Guanyin at the back of the main hall (1711)                            573
Figure 6: Kalavinka figures in the main hall                                           574
Figure 7: Kalavinka figures in the main hall                                           574
Figure 8: Hindu columns behind the main hall (Yuan dynasty)                            574
Figure 9: Column detail: Krishna (Yuan dynasty)                                        574
Figure 10: Column detail: Shiva (Yuan dynasty)                                         574
Figure 11: Gilded Buddhas in the main hall                                              575
Figure 12: Sphinx and lion figures, base of main hall platform (Yuan dynasty)          575
Figure 13: Interior of the hall of the ordination platform                             575
Figure 14: Phoenix figures above Lossana in the hall of the ordination platform        575
Figure 15: Apsara figure in the hall of the ordination platform                        576
Figure 16: Two apsara in the hall of the ordination platform                           576
Figure 17: Detail of Lossana base (Ming dynasty)                                       576
Figure 18: Lossana statue and base (Ming dynasty)                                      576
Figure 19: Naturally occurring image of plum blossoms in stone                         577
Figure 20: Kalavinka decorating a monumental column in central Quanzhou                577
Figure 21: Woman kneeling with incense                                                 577
Figure 22: Woman kneeling before the statue of Maitreya Buddha                         577
Figure 23: Billboard about parenting with east and west pagodas in background          578
Figure 24: Billboard promoting culture as the key to economic development              578
Figure 25: Booklet commemorating the achievements of Quanzhou (1949-1959)              578
Figure 26: Many publication cover with pagodas as a decorative motif.                  578
Figure 27: Quanzhou Electric Bureau and Kaiyuan monastery                              579
Figure 28: Pagodas as viewed from West Street, 2009                                    579
Figure 29: The west pagoda as seen from the east pagoda                                580
Figure 30: The east pagoda as viewed from the west pagoda                              580
Figure 31: East and west pagodas                                                       581
Figure 32: Sculpture of the monkey king (Sun Wukong) on the west pagoda (1237).... 581
Figure 33: Sculpture of Xuanzang with small monkey figure on the east pagoda           581
Figure 34: On his first outing Siddhartha sees on old man (east pagoda, 13* century).. 582
Figure 35: Sculpture on the base of the east pagoda (13th century)                     582
Figure 36: DharmaHall and Scripture Library                                            582
Figure 37: Blood Sutra of Ruzhao (Yuan dynasty)                                        582
Figure 38: Inside the sutra library with the custodian monk, 2006                      582
Figure 39: Tripitika written in gold (10th C.)                                         582
Figure 40: Kaiyuan's main courtyard                                                    583
Figure 41: Southwest dharani pillar (946)                                              583
Figure 42: West dharani pillar (1008)                                                  583
Figure 43: East dharani pillar (854)                                                   583
Figure 44: Stupa erected in 1145                                                       584
Figure 45: Stupa bearing inscriptions of the three treasures (Song dynasty)            584
Figure 46: Silk-burning furnace (Song dynasty)                                         584
Figure 47: One of eight Ming dynasty stupas                                              584
Figure 48: "Dharma world of the lotus-blooming mulberry" (main hall)                     585
Figure 49: "Dharma world of the lotus-blooming mulberry" (2002)                          585
Figure 50: "Lotus[-Blooming] Peach Tree Manifests the Auspicious" (2002)                 585
Figure 51: Purple Cloud Screen                                                           585
Figure 52: "Purple Cloud" (above main gate)                                              585
Figure 53: Detail: "Purple Cloud Screen" stone inscription (Ming)                        585
Figure 54:The mulberry tree that has survived more than 1,200 years                      586
Figure 55: The trunk of the mulberry tree, 2006                                          586
Figure 56: Statue of Huang Shougong in the Donor's Ancestral Shrine                      586
Figure 57: Worship at the Donor's Ancestral Shrine, 2009                                 587
Figure 58: Portrait of Huang Shougong                                                    587
Figure 59: Shrine case inside the Hall of Patriarchs                                     587
Figure 60: Kuanghu statue and Zhiliang's supposed full body relic                        587
Figure 61: Portrait ofZhuandao in the Hall of Patriarchs                                 588
Figure 62: Photo of Yuanying (ca.1929)                                                   588
Figure 63: Students attending class at the Kaiyuan school (ca. 1929)                     588
Figure 64: The author with former mayor Wang Jinsheng and his wife, 2006                 589
Figure 65: Stele record of Kaiyuan as a provincial level protected cultural relic (1963) 589
Figure 66: Kaiyuan as a site of important national cultural heritage (1982)              589
Figure 67: Ticket booth and sign for entrance ticket                                     589
Figure 68: Tour group examining the mulberry tree                                        590
Figure 69: Older men at tables near the east pagoda                                      590
Figure 70: Groups of exercisers in the main courtyard                                    590
Figure 71: Stone fencing along the southern perimeter of Kaiyuan                         590
Figure 72: Monk patrolling for disturbances during recitation service (nianfo)           590
Figure 73: Fencing along the western edge of the monastery.                              590
Figure 74: Morning service in the Dharma Hall                                            591
Figure 75: The abbot, Daoyuan                                                            591
Figure 76: Morning service                                                               591
Figure 77: Laypersons at morning service                                                 591
Figure 78: Desheng making tea                                                            591
Figure 79: Amonk reads scripture                                                         591
Figure 80: Buddha recitation service (nianfo) in the main hall                           592
Figure 81: Buddha recitation on lunar twenty-sixth of the month                          592
Figure 82: The courtyard on lunar twenty-sixth                                           593
Figure 83: Crowds of worshipers on lunar twenty-sixth                                    593
Figure 84: Offerings on large tables on lunar twenty-sixth                               593
Figure 85: Laypersons participate in release of living beings ceremony.                  593
Figure 86: Release of living beings ceremony, 2006                                       593
Figure 87: The Release of Burning Mouths ritual (fang yankou), 2006                      593
Figure 88: Ritual burning of offerings, 2007                                             594
Figure 89: Burning of offerings, 2007                                                    594
Figure 90: Author with family and monks, 2006                                            594
Figure 91: Map of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery                                             595
                                                                                         xi
CHAPTER ONE
( TKM^F) on Mount Drum (Gushan S£LL|), this passage hails the longevity and greatness
of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery. The enigmatic aphorism "The great fruit has not been
eaten" (Shuoguo bu shi W.^L'fiik) has been chosen by Yuanxian with care and warrants
closer examination. The line is taken from the Yijing H#n or Book of Changes and
appears in the exegesis of the top and only yang (unbroken) line of hexagram twenty-
three (bo pj,"peeling," "stripping," "splitting apart" or "flaying").2 The scene painted by
this hexagram is the end of autumn when all things are turning brown and dying and a
destructive storm blows in, tearing apart the trees of an orchard. Atop a lone damaged
tree is a large fruit left uneaten that is destined to fall and bring forth a new tree and,
ultimately, a restored orchard. That is the positive message of the top line referenced by
Yuanxian.
When the scholarly monk Yuanxian visited Kaiyuan at the end of the Ming
dynasty, it was emerging from a period of neglect, demise and occupation. He artfully
chose this image from the Yijing to suggest Kaiyuan's promise of revival after a century
1
 Quanzhou Kaiyuansi zhi I 1 a (henceforth Sizhi)
2
 Huang 2001 197-203
Brian J. Nichols                    CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                  1
of disaster. The poetic metaphor suggests Kaiyuan monastery re-emerging from the seeds
of its own fruit after a period of terrible neglect. Kaiyuan had suffered occupation and
mistreatment during the sixteenth century and was at last beginning to see signs of
recovery and new life. Yuanxian's image from the twenty-third hexagram was both poetic
and apt.
Yuanxian hailed Kaiyuan monastery as the oldest and one of the grandest
surviving monasteries in the region. More than three hundred and fifty years later, these
claims remain as true as they were in the seventeenth century. And Kaiyuan is once again
in the midst of period of restoration. Today's Kaiyuan is the largest monastery in the
region occupying about 19 acres (78,000 square meters) and supporting a community of
some eighty monks.3 In addition, it has buildings and artifacts from every imperial
dynasty since the ninth century of the Tang dynasty.4 While other Chinese monasteries
were left in ruins from a string of disasters stretching from the Taiping Rebellion of the
Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery has survived remarkably well. It was Kaiyuan's impressive
state of preservation that gave rise to my initial line of inquiry: what factors, I wondered,
had contributed to Kaiyuan's longevity? What was the nature of Kaiyuan's "great fruits"
that enabled it to survive and return to life as a center of Buddhist devotion in Communist
China? This line of questioning led to the desire to understand the many dimensions of
3
  There are about eighty monks that permanently reside at Kaiyuan, while visiting monks can bring the
population close to one hundred. As of October 2007, Fuzhou's illustrious Yongquan monastery on
Gushan maintains approximately the same monastic population. Smaller temples m China may have only a
handful of resident monks, Nanputuo monastery m Xiamen, which includes an Institute of Buddhist Studies
(foxue yuan), on the other hand, houses some six hundred monks (Ashiwa and Wank 2006 337).
4
  These properties include a Tang dharanT pillar (ninth century), early Song dynasty stupas (twelfth
century), monumental pagodas from the late Song (thirteenth century), sculptures from the Yuan
(fourteenth century) and a mam hall and statues from the Ming dynasty (seventeenth century) and the
Ordination hall, sculptures and bells from the Qmg (nineteenth century)
Brian J Nichols                         CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                      2
the monastery—religious, social, cultural, economic, political, historical and institutional.
This dissertation explores all of these dimensions and folds them into an explanatory
"religious" I mean to indicate the forms of doctrine and practice made manifest by
of doctrine and practice in the material culture of the monastery, for example, in its
memorials to the auspicious past and in literature produced by the monastery. The
exploration of these components will reveal their imbrication with social, historical,
acquiring and managing resources in the interest of self promotion and propagation.
Michael J. Walsh emphasizes this notion of institution in his study of medieval Chinese
monasticism: "A large Buddhist monastery was thoroughly institutional, that is, a social
and physical structure that defined, imposed, and maintained sets of social values, and
competitive manner."5 Walsh does a good job of pointing out the importance of
accumulating wealth and how this was accomplished by exchanging merit (cultural
capital) for land etc. (economic capital). At the same time his argument, based on
5
 Walsh 2010: 6.
Brian J. Nichols                 CHAPTER ONE: Introduction                                    3
follow it will become clear how the monastery has both dimensions. My central thesis is
that Kaiyuan negotiates a balance between these two demands by successfully deploying
monastic signifiers including devotional practice, material culture and auspicious events.
Both the religious and institutional natures of Kaiyuan monastery have been
conditioned by the particular circumstances of the post-Mao era and its historical
antecedents. This dissertation inquires into this historical background and finds that it is
marked by shifting relationships between the monastery and the Chinese state (both the
central state and its local representatives). This approach combines a diachronic view of
the monastery with a synchronic focus on "the present" (i.e. the post-Mao period).
Quanzhou Kaiyuan's current revival began soon after the death of chairman Mao
in 1976. In December of 1978 at the meeting of the Third Plenum of the Eleventh Party
Congress Central Committee, Deng Xiaoping initiated the economic reforms that soon
led to the opening of cities and special economic zones along China's Southeast coast.
The first provinces opened were Fujian (across from Taiwan) and Guangzhou (across
from Hong Kong).6 Four cities in these provinces were designated special economic
zones in 1980, this included Xiamen, which is a one hour drive from Quanzhou. In
tandem with these economic measures, the repressive measures directed against religion
6
 In 1979 four special economic zones are established on an experimental basis: Shenzhen/^!! Zhuhai W$i
and ShantouME^m Guangzhou province and Xiamen in Fujian The experimental nature of the zones
quickly faded as they met with rapid success and the model was eventually expanded across China's east
and southeast coasts
Brian J Nichols                       CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                         4
during the Cultural Revolution were repudiated and a form of religious freedom was
revived
The new religion policy was formalized in 1982 with the issuance of the
document On the Basic Viewpoint and Policy on the Religious Question during Our
Country's Socialist Period Commonly known as Document 19, this policy guaranteed
the freedom to believe or not believe in religion and the freedom to practice religion at
The five officially recognized religions are Buddhism, Daoism, Islam, Protestantism and
Catholicism and each of these has an official mediating association between it and the
state In the case of Buddhism this mediating agency is the Chinese Buddhist Association
The economic opening and the relaxing of controls against religious practice were
a boon to temples throughout Fujian and it has come to have the largest number of
Buddhist monasteries and temples in all of China 9 Quanzhou Kaiyuan, as the most
prominent monastery in an important home of overseas Chinese with links to Taiwan and
Southeast Asia, was quick to receive financial support from overseas Chinese to fund its
7
  The germ of China's current policy on religion can be traced back to 1945 when Mao called for the
protection of the freedom of religious belief and disbelief (Welch 1972 2) Within two years of founding of
the People's Republic of China in 1949, Mao's notion of freedom of religious belief was articulated in
Article 5 of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC) which guaranteed the
freedom to believe or not to believe religious ideas The justification in the eyes of communist ideology
was that people were still backward and in a low stage of development and would leave religious beliefs
behind as they advanced in understanding (class consciousness) and technology (means of production)
(Welch 1972 3-4 ) It was pointed out that after thirty years of socialism in the Soviet Union there were
still remnants of the old religion, it was therefore unreasonable to attempt to wipe them out by force (Welch
1972 5) While this policy of tolerance (m a more restrictive sense than we're accustomed to think of)
abruptly ended with the onset of the Cultural Revolution in 1966, it was revived under the leadership of
Deng Xiaoping in 1979
8
  Religious practices that fall outside these five official religions, such as folk practices and Falun Gong, are
in danger of being labeled superstitions which or not protected by the law or cults and prohibited Kaiyuan
monastery is an official site of religious activity and so is not affected by the same concerns
9
  Ji Zhe 2004
Brian J Nichols                          CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                               5
revival. The precise nature of its revival will become clearer as one reads chapters four
through nine.
contributes to a small but growing body of knowledge on the revival of religion in post-
Mao China. In this introduction I will situate and describe the major components of my
project, introduce key terms, discuss sources and methods and contextualize this study
within relevant fields of scholarship. I will close with a brief synopsis of the chapters to
follow.
          ".. .it is only through particularity that we see Buddhism in action, and that
          is usually the best posture in which to observe it."10
In short, the object of this study is a particular place—a large, famous, urban
Buddhist monastery in Southeast China possessing historic cultural properties. Each word
of description is important. If one were changed, the particulars of the religious and
institutional life, as well as the state of revival, would be different. Why that is so will
become clearer as we proceed, but for now, let's examine each of these elements
"Large" means that historically it was among the largest monasteries (in terms of
size, land holdings and population of monks) in Fujian and today, as previously
10
  Brook 2005:147.
Brian J. Nichols                   CHAPTER ONE: Introduction                                   6
as home to some eighty monks and can accommodate up to ten thousand visitors.
Smaller temples, which have long been in the majority, often house as few as two or three
monastics.
"Famous" is a reputation that Kaiyuan has enjoyed for centuries; today this
translates into a steady stream of visitors from all over China. Temples that are not
famous have neither the income nor problems associated with tourism and pilgrimage.
"Urban" indicates that it has always been in or near the middle of the city of Quanzhou.
In other words, it is not in the mountains or countryside where many famous monasteries
are, nor has it ever been. The history of the monastery has been linked with fortunes
(rising and falling) of the city of Quanzhou and the colorful history of this city will be
revealed in the next chapter. "Buddhist" draws attention to the fact that it is the religion
which is enjoying a relatively robust revival in its Han form, but one that remains under
close restraint and supervision in Tibet. It is a designation that invites us to inquire into
The word "monastery" translates si ^F, a word that is often translated as "temple."
I use "temple" when I wish to indicate or stress the non-monastic nature or features of a
si, such as its use as a museum or tourist attraction. I also use "temple" for a site with
only a few monastics or a shrine with no monastics. Thus I generally apply "monastery"
11
   Local publications often tout it as the largest monastery in the region. The ten thousand figure is an
estimate based on the fact that some 3,000 visitors are known to fit comfortably along the central axis and
this leaves open two very large areas to the east and west, which could easily accommodate many more
thousands if necessary.
12
   The Buddhist revival that is described here is thus focused on Han Buddhism Tibetan Buddhism has also
enjoyed gams in the post-Mao period, but it has suffered repressive measures that have not affected Han
Buddhism The rationale for the different treatment of Han and Tibetan Buddhists has to do with Chinese
fears of Tibetan independence movements One change is the requirement that monks be 18 to be ordained,
their monastic education used to begin as early as age 6 See Goldestem, Melvyn and Matthew Kapstem
(eds ) 1998 Buddhsim in Contemporary Tibet Berkeley University of California Press
Brian J Nichols                          CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                           7
to a Buddhist site that is tended by a sufficiently large number of monastics.13 The
and contentions that will emerge as the story of monastic Buddhism in China unfolds in
Monasteries deserve scholarly attention because they are the central pillar of
Buddhism in East Asia, the home of monastics, sites of education and libraries, homes of
artistic treasures and a gathering place for lay Buddhists and worshipers. In his
introduction to the recent volume Buddhist Monasticism in East Asia (2010), Harvard
Robson indicates the need for more studies of Buddhist monasticism and connects the
monasticism in China and Japan and he therefore writes "functioned" in the past tense
rather than in the present. This dissertation situates itself between the demand for more
13
   There are many terms in Chinese that are generally translated as monastery, but they range in meaning
from a small private chapel to a large public monastery, a mountain hermitage to a busy urban temple. See
Robson 2010a 43-47 for a discussion of the meaning of si ^F and related terms If it is only a small
community of six or fewer monastics, such as one commonly finds at most si, in both urban and rural areas,
I tend to refer to it as a temple
14
   Robson 2010a 2
Brian J Nichols                      CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                            8
studies of Buddhist monasteries to reveal their "occluded histories"15 and a demand for
more anthropological and historical studies of living religious traditions in China and
Fujian that the late great scholar of Chinese religion Michel Strickmann called for twenty
years ago.
that it holds the most promise for understanding Chinese religion be it Daoism, Buddhism
The phrase "Southeast China," which I used to locate my site, indicates Fujian, a
province famous for a rich and enduring religious culture. It is the home of the national
Heaven or Tianhou under the Qing).18 It is the home of the most vibrant traditions of
Daoist and folk religious practices. In addition, Fujian was one of two provinces first
opened to international investment. Fujian is directly across from Taiwan and the two
15
   Robson2010a.l6.
16
   Kenneth Dean was first to respond to his call, conducting early studies of Daoism m Fujian (Dean 1993,
1998).
17
   Strickmann 1980" 248. When he spoke of the Fukinese cultural area, Strickmann meant Taiwan,
Malaysia and Indonesia which are home to significant numbers of immigrants from Fujian.
18
   Mazu is the subject of many studies including James Watson (1985) and Mayfair Yang (2004), there is
much more research in Chinese
19
   Many studies on Daoism by Kenneth Dean and John Lagerwey have been based in Fujian. See also
Stephan Feuchtwang's work on popular religion De Groot also conducted his groundbreaking research on
Chinese religion m Fujian
Brian J Nichols                        CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                           9
enjoy close historical links; the geographic and ancestral links have generated increasing
cross-straits exchanges. The wealth generated through the collusion of economic opening
and Fujian's many overseas connections has contributed to the revival of the region
in Quanzhou have benefited from the economic growth of recent years. Popular religious
vitality is linked to economic prosperity in Fujian; when people do well financially, they
traditionally reward the local deities for what is perceived as their efficacious assistance.
The most direct benefit from economic growth has been financial support in the
form of donations and fees paid for ritual services. While an economic motive may
merit (gongde $}W) for Buddhists and spiritual efficacy (ling M.) and blessings for
worshipers. We will see that the monastery promotes a reputation for ling in part through
its memorialization of auspicious events associated with its founding (chapter seven).
Buddhism throughout Asia recognizes giving (dana) is as the first of the six or ten
have made giving a core feature of their practice of Buddhism throughout Asia. The most
according to tradition, generates greater amounts of merit than other good works such as
social charity.21 The exchange of offerings for merit or blessings is an important feature
" The other five are ethics, patience, energy, meditative concentration and wisdom (prajfia)
21
   Sangha can be used to refer to both laypersons and monastics (as in the fourfold sangha), but it is
commonly used to refer specifically to monastics, which is how I use the term here. For an excellent
discussion of the primacy of giving as means of generating merit in Burmese Buddhism see Spiro 1970
103-112
Brian J Nichols                         CHAPTER ONE. Introduction                                      10
of both the religious and institutional life of Buddhist monasteries; it may be
engaged in acts of patronage on one hand and those monks who are involved in higher
practices on the other we might borrow the distinction between nibbanic and kammatic
forms of practice suggested by Melford Spiro, in his study of Burmese Buddhism (Spiro
1970). Nibbanic indicates the search for release from samsara (the cycle of rebirth and
meanwhile, indicates a concern with good works (karma) and merit in order to receive a
higher, more comfortable birth (within samsara). Spiro describes this latter form of
Buddhism as a form of "proximate salvation" which helped spread the faith among the
masses.23 It is within the kammatic form of Buddhism that laypersons in China and
elsewhere engage in giving in order to generate merit in the hopes of being rewarded in
the future. Interestingly, the soteriological goal has shifted from seeking transcendence of
the world and samsara to seeking the more proximate goal of a higher birth within
Scholars and non-scholars alike may be found speaking about Buddhism, Chinese
Buddhism, Zen, Tantra and so on as naming coherent traditions that can be identified
   The notion of cultural capital is, of course, adapted from Pierre Bourdieu Ji Zhe 2004 characterizes the
exchange as one between material capital and cultural capital (nt. 19) See also Walsh 2010.
23
   Spiro 1970. Spiro identifies two other forms that I will not use here: Apotropaic (magical protection) and
Esoteric (related to alchemy and spirit worship in Burma). Kammatic practices are naturally part of the
salvic practice of "nibbanic" Buddhism; a distinction between the two is recognized m order to help
highlight different levels of motivation, marked by different emphases in practice.
24
   At the same time, I do not wish to over-stress these differences, which indeed form part of a continuum
of practice Other scholars have tried to develop other means of distinguishing types of Buddhist practice
Reginald Ray, for example, m his study of Buddhist saints, has proposed a three-tiered model of
understanding Buddhism settled monastics, forest yogis and household believers (Ray 1994 433-447), See
also Yu 2001 198
Brian J Nichols                           CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                         11
with distinctive practices and goals—and they can. But it bears stressing that each of
these designations also accommodates divergent practices and goals. Atisa (eleventh
century) in his Lamp for the Path to Enlightenment {BodhipathapradTpa), for example,
speaks of three kinds of motivation (low, middle and high) which are marked by three
practices or vehicles. The individual with the lowest form of motivation engaged in the
kammatic form of Buddhism, while the higher forms of motivation relate to the nibbanic
varying motivations and talents and welcome patrons of varying interests and motivations.
The most visible manifestation of these different forms of Buddhism is in the economic
engine of the cash-merit exchange {kammatic) that supports the monastic order
The monastery of this study is marked by the salience of its material culture and,
in particular, its properties of cultural heritage. Such elements of material culture have
played a prominent role in the institutional, devotional and ritual life of Buddhism in Asia,
but scholars have only recently began to make sustained inquiries into the material and
embodied dimensions of religion. Within the field of Buddhist studies the shift in focus to
Living Images by Elizabeth Horton Sharf and Robert Sharf (2001), John Kieschnik's The
Impact of Buddhism on Chinese Material Culture (2003) and Germano and Trainor's
Embodying the Dharma (2004). Kaiyuan's cultural properties have been instrumental in
securing state support for preservation and in making the monastery into a tourist
25
  Buddhanic suggests Buddhahood (for all sentient bemgs) is the ultimate goal (the path of the
bodhisattva), rather than arhatiship (liberation from samsara) or (individual) nirvana
Brian J Nichols                          CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                12
attraction Cultural properties and the deployment of space also serve to frame and
condition forms of religious practice and experience at the site I trace the historical
evolution of Kaiyuan's physical plant (chapter two) and reflect on the role played by
buildings and material objects in the production of religious and institutional space
(chapter six) 26
The work of David Morgan has been helpful in thinking about the place of
matenal culture in religion Rather than seeing it as opposed to belief, he seeks to reorient
belief27 I see the turn towards greater appreciation of matenal objects in religion as a
means to draw attention to our embodied experience of the world and the way we learn
and know with our bodies and through contact with other material objects Temples and
monastenes are physical sites marked by the presence of material structures and sacred
Expenentially? These are some of the questions that will be explored in chapter six
being lead by monks in the most popular form of practice in Chinese Buddhism today
nianfo, which is reciting and/or remembering the Buddha's name 28 It is the central
practice of Pure Land Buddhism and the Buddha called to mind is the Buddha Amitabha
{Amituo fo), the Buddha of Infinite Life and Light In a previous life, this Buddha vowed
to bring all who called his name into his Pure Land once he became a Buddha He is said
to preside over the Western Land of Bliss (SukhavatI) and this is where the faithful hope
96
   Henri Lefebvre has explored and theorized the social production of space (Lefebvre 1991)
27
   Morgan 2010 7
18
   See also Qm 2000 359ff
Brian J Nichols                       CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                13
to be reborn with his assistance. Amitabha is thought to fulfill his vow by bringing those
who sincerely call his name at the moment of death into his Pure Land. Pure Land
Buddhism dominates Chinese Buddhism and is the form publically practiced at my field
The key religious components that Kaiyuan shares with other Buddhist temples
and monasteries in China are those we have been discussing : ling (spiritual efficacy),
dana (giving) and merit (gongde) and nianfo ^IH(Buddha recitation/mindfulness). This
dissertation will explore their place in religious practice at Kaiyuan and in the
monastery's institutional structure. It will be found that these elements along with others
may be interpreted in different ways (e.g. nibbanic and kammatic). I refer to this as the
multivalence of Quanzhou Kaiyuan's monastic signifiers, that is, those elements which
activities, material culture and memorials to auspicious lore; each of these is variably
interpreted by monks, laypersons, worshipers, tourists and officials. There are two
dominant interpretive schemes which generate the two principal views of Kaiyuan held
by locals and non-local visitors: tourist attraction and religious site. How these views are
generated and how Kaiyuan accommodates both views is a recurring theme of this
dissertation.
This study utilizes two general types of sources: 1. written, archival materials
including epigraphy and 2. a data stream collected from fieldwork including interviews,
field notes from observations, videos and photography. These two data streams feed into
seventeenth century Record ofQuanzhou Kaiyuan Temple (Quanzhou kaiyuansi zhi MjM
Jfjt^f-ife) by Yuanxian.29 The excerpt at the top of this introduction was taken from this
text and two of its four sections are translated in the appendix in full (buildings and
Record is divided into four sections: 1) history of the temple and its buildings, 2)
biographies of eminent monks of the temple, 3) literature associated with the temple
including inscriptions, and 4) economic information such as the lands owned by the
temple. °
Monastic Records (sizhi ^?M) such as this were compiled for many monasteries
during the Ming and Qing dynasties and serve as excellent and underutilized sources of
(shanzhi ill J&), are a form of historiographic literature that became popular at the end of
the Ming dynasty (early seventeenth century); they are a subgenre of gazetteers (zhi)
most of which deal with administrative regions such as sub-prefectures (zhou jM) or
districts (xian H). 31 Scholars working at the Dharma Drum Buddhist College in Taiwan
have recognized the importance of monastic records (or "gazetteers") and have digitized
   The final character, zhi ,eJ,is commonly translated as "gazetteer." I choose to translate it here as
"Record," which is another meaning of the word zhi, because it does not have the same broad coverage of
features that mark gazetteers of place (difangzhi iifeTf/S.) such as prefectural or city gazetteers. It is, on the
other hand, a monastic record (sizhi T F S )
J0
   Another name for Quanzhou which is used in the title of the text is Wenlmg 7m I t (thus, the Wenhng
Kaiyuansi zhi) The record contains 27,555 characters
31
   The Zhongguo difangzhi zongmu tiyao ^ H i i f e ^ ^ g @ J t S (Jin & Hu 1996) lists 8577 gazetteers of
administrative regions (a number that excludes temple records and mountain gazetteers), Bigenheimer
2009 2, n 5
Brian J. Nichols                        CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                                 15
237 of them to facilitate their use as sources for the study of Chinese Buddhism.               Marcus
Bigenheimer, one of the project leaders, describes monastery records as "[ajmong the
most precious sources for the study of later Chinese Buddhist history."33 As written on
the website of the database these sources are "treasure houses containing topographical
descriptions, biographies, poems, maps, portraits, miracle stories and much more."34
Monastery Record) has been checked against and supplemented with Dagui's ^vzi
Biographies of Purple Cloud Bodhisattvas {Ziyun kaishi zhuan, %.is.Jf i ^ ) from 1348.
Dagui's text contains biographies of eminent masters associated with Kaiyuan temple and
was used by Yuanxian in his compilation of the Monastery Record.35 It may be classed a
in nature, the text is full of facts and legends associated with Kaiyuan's monks.
painstakingly collected religious inscriptions from Fujian; I used their three volume
none were available textual sources were used. I consulted more than thirty inscriptions
32
   The Dharma Drum database of monastery records or gazetteers may be accessed at
httpV/dev ddbc edu tw/fosizhi/#hs Marcus Bigenheimer's biographical research has counted 280 temple
gazetteers and he estimates that a complete count of sizhi could exceed 350 (Bigenheimer 2009:4).
33
   Bigenheimer 2009 1.
j4
   http //buddhistmformatics ddbc.edu.tw/fosizhi/
35
   A second edition was printed in the Ming dynasty with information on eight additional masters, four
from the Yuan (including Dagui) and four from the Ming Reprinted in 1929 by the monk Chaochen l a ±
during the Republican Period (eighteenth year of Mingguo) at Kaiyuan Quanshui yixuan JF7C^./X—iff.
36
   Published in Fuzhou by the Fujian Renmin Publishing House        tfaWiK^ihf&li.
Brian J. Nichols                       CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                        16
in this collection which were directly relevant to Quanzhou Kaiyuan. The earliest record
of the monastery is an inscription by Huang Tao MM from the year 897 (not extant) and
there were several Qing dynasty inscriptions which helped fill in gaps in the monastery's
~/LM., Zhou Xuezeng M ^ H et al. edited Gazetteer ofJinjiang County (Jinjiangxian zhi
ll^XJI/ife) from 1830.37 Details about Kaiyuan's Republican era orphanage are taken
from two rare documents acquired over the course of my fieldwork from private libraries.
The first was written by Wu Zexu iJi^M in 1979, "A Simple History of Quanzhou
Kaiyuan's Children's School and Foster Care" (Quanzhou kaiyuan ertong jiaoyangyuan
jianshi M')'H J F ^ J L s i & ^ K f f l jfe.).38 The second is the Report on the First Class of
Students from Quanzhou Kaiyuan's Compassion for Children School (Quanzhou Kaiyuan
around 1929. These documents provided information about the Republican Period
charity and transnational funding networks that were part of Kaiyuan's response to early
twentieth century pressures to modernize that had caused Kaiyuan and other monasteries
to lose their income-producing lands (the traditional source of monastic wealth; see
chapter three).
37
   The earliest known collection is the Qianlong edition of 1765, it was updated m 1830 (Daoguang period
of the Qmg) and printed (according to Ecke and Demieville) in 1866 The edition now available, which I
have, is a modern printed book in two volumes (1,870 pages) from 1989 This book, in seventy-seven
chapters, surveys the history, people, geography, weather, culture, customs and so on of Jmjiang county
which includes Quanzhou city
38
   This is a typed report hand signed by the author (property of Huang Yushan JtzElil)
Brian J Nichols                         CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                        17
         My ethnographically acquired materials were collected over the course of four
trips to Quanzhou from the summer of 2005 to December 2009. I spent about two years
overall conducting research in China during that period, approximately seven months of
which were spent living on site at the monastery. The materials I collected include many
hours of informal interviews, dozens of hours of more formal interviews, more than 300
pages of field notes, about twenty hours of video and thousands of images. The
following discussion of method will shed more light on this body of ethnographic data
I have A) consulted texts and epigraphy in order to understand the history of the
participant observation and interviews (open and closed, formal and informal) to
understand the recent history, current revival and the attitudes of the community toward
the monastery. The nature of the two streams of sources that I have utilized suggests the
Over the course of my research I became viscerally aware of the gap between
certain prescriptive accounts in Buddhist literature and the lived reality of the monastery.
research in order to more faithfully reflect the lived reality of religion at the site. I was
initially interested in the doctrinal understanding of monks, for example, an interest that
is likely shared by most scholars of Buddhism. I found that questioning monks about
frustration The vast majority of China's monks are neither scholars nor advanced
Sorbonne and the Chinese University Hong Kong who has conducted research in China
for many years, offers such would be researchers the following propaeduetic "You do
not know the answers, you don't even know the questions " 39 It is an approach
fast and, sometimes, radical, state of transition By remaining open to new research foci, I
was drawn to examine the phenomenon of tourism and the factors contributing to it such
as the temple administrative commission (chapters eight and nine) The administrative
commission was a factor that had emerged in listening to stories told by the monks I was
not looking for information about this, but it emerged as a key factor conditioning the
I sought to understand the monastery, its historical trajectory and religious and
institutional life from the ground up I conducted interviews and collected data in an
39
   Talk given by John Lagerwey to China Fulbnght grantees in Hong Kong, April 2009 It is part of what
Kevin J O'Bnen calls a form of exploratory analysis that "tieats leseaich as an ongoing piocess and
emphasizes discovery lather than verification " O'bnen 2006 28 Foi exploratory analysis see Gerrmg,
John 2001 Social Science Methodology A Ci itical Framework Cambndge Cambiidge University Pi ess,
pp 231-232, See also Glaser, Barney G , and Anselm L Stiauss 1967 The Discovery of Grounded
Theory Strategies Joi Qualitative Research Chicago Aldme
40
   There are several reasons that I did not attempt to collect quantifiable data, but fundamentally such an
appioach did not seive my goals In addition there are greatei lestnctions placed on formal surveys in
Brian J Nichols                          CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                           19
interlocutors. The flow of my research was thus intentionally colored and influenced by
Along with being open to new angles, I also practiced empathy with my
informants; empathic understanding that was personal, cultural and historical in order to
give them a fair hearing without jumping to conclusions. Exercising empathy does not
hypocrisies and failures, but it should include taking time to examine what may appear to
be instances of these and presenting them in the fairest, least tendentious light possible.
research, namely that the accounts provided by interviewees could themselves include
accounts with direct observation. It was important for me to live at the monastery, not in
a guest house at a remove, but in a room that lay between the abbot's quarters and the
rooms of two senior monks, in order to understand the texture of the religious and
institutional lives of the monastery. I ate with the abbot and the senior monks on a daily
basis and observed the comings and goings, was present for the elite visitors that arrived,
as travel plans were made and executed, for the crises that arose and the responses to
China, as well as moie oversight and individuals may be less reluctant to commit certain answers in
writing See Heimer and Th0gersen 2006
41
   My use of the term "hardware," for example, to describe the current focus of recovery efforts is a word
used by my informants.
 " As scholars we are wont to believe that we can speak objectively about phenomena, if not as an
omniscient third person observer, then at least, as it were, above the fray of private agendas This, of
course, is not the case, but we can remain self-aware and exercise vigilance, understanding our
situatedness This is lelated to what Gadamer calls the history of effect {wirkungsegeschichte) by which he
means how our understanding is historically situated and conditioned, and the importance of becoming
awaie of this in the interpretive 01 hermeneutic endeavor (Gadamer 1989: 298-301).
Brian J. Nichols                        CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                           20
them. The full access I enjoyed at the monastery enabled me to develop an unusually
complete picture of the life and functioning of the monastery. I even traveled with some
I made two trips to Kaiyuan monastery in 2005 and 2006 in which I collected
material for exploratory analysis. I examined this material and formed an initial approach
identity of the monastery. In doing this I pursued lines of inquiry such as, "What did the
monastery possess that enabled it to survive the trauma of the twentieth century?", "What
internal factors condition life at the monastery? Its reputation?" After isolating the most
prominent characteristics of the monastery (people and their practices, material culture,
history, lore and state relations) I returned to Kaiyuan on two subsequent trips for follow
When I initially turned to my ethnographic data, I was confronted with data that
fell into the messy interstices between popular and elite religion. On the one hand, the
recognized Buddhist institution. Yet the monastery was visited daily by throngs of
popular religious practice than with the ideals of monastic Buddhism. In addition, many
of the monks were fresh out of the village and had more in common with the older ladies
chanting Amitabha than the urbane monks who had graduated from university (one of
these monks is at Kaiyuan, the others I met at different monasteries). The heterogeneity
43
  The access that I enjoyed was more than anything a result of my personal connections (guanxi) with
provincial authorities who made it possible for me to stay there and have unfettered access to the
monastery
Brian J Nichols                       CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                         21
of practitioners within the monastic grounds and within the population of monks exposed
of an elite or official tradition. The monastery did represent institutional Buddhism, but it
persons, worshipers and tourists. The exchanges between these individuals and the life of
the monastery will be explored in the chapters to follow. What did they get from the
Scholarly Context
several lines of emerging research. One of these is a new field of research into the current
revival of religion in China, which is part of China's dramatic post-Mao reform and
opening. While several articles, monographs and edited volumes have been published on
monograph dedicated to the post-Mao revival of Han Buddhism.45 To date there are only
book chapters, articles and dissertations available which treat the post-Mao revival of
Han Buddhism.
44
   Robson 2010b 44.
45
  There are three books on Tibetan Buddhism in post-Mao China, Makley 2007 , Goldstein and Kapstein
(1998) and Ester Bianchi (2001). Books on popular forms of religion include Adam Chau (2006), Jmg Jun
(1996), Erik Mueggler (2001), Wang Mingming (1997), Ole Bran (2003), Thomas Dubois (2005) and Guo
Yuhua (2000) On Daoism there is Kenneth Dean (1993, 1998) Studies of Catholicism by Richard Madsen
(1998) and Enberto Lozada (2001), on Islam by Dru Gladney (1996) Edited volumes on different religions
including Buddhism Yoshiko Ashiwa and David Wank (2009), Mayfair Mei-Hui Yang (2008), Daniel
Overmyer (2003), Julia Pas (1989) and Adam Chau (2011)
Brian J Nichols                      CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                       22
         Three recent dissertations that deal with post-Mao Buddhism are Qin Wen-jie's
"The Buddhist Revival in Post-Mao China: Women Reconstruct Buddhism on Mt. Emei"
(Harvard, 2000), Thomas Borchert's "Educating monks: Buddhism, Politics and Freedom
of Virginia, 2006). Qin's dissertation is a study of nuns on Mt. Emei. Borchert studied
Fisher studied the phenomenon of lay preachers gathering at Beijing's Guangji Temple.
None of these studies was thus of a Han Buddhist monastery (of monks) and none of
these depicted the life of the monastery in as much detail or depth as one will find here.
Qin's study of nuns on Mt. Emei revealed an inside look at life behind the
monastery walls and it has the most in common with my study; though the two remain
very different. Qin looks at the lives of the women who become nuns and examines how
they are transformed by their choices to leave home. My focus is much more institutional
in scope, designed to understand the organic functioning of the monastery and its
meaning and significance within the broader community. Another major difference
between Qin's study and mine is that her site was under the leadership of a nun of
could explore such issues with her and her disciples, my site lacked such leadership and
discipleship.
Borchert looks at relations between the state and the Dai monks of his study and
examines how education contributes to their identity. All of these dissertations shed light
on various aspects of the post-Mao revival of Buddhism to which this dissertation will
book chapters dealing with Buddhism in contemporary China, it is important to note that
publications, such as textbooks, are still released which do not recognize the current shift
in policy in China and the growth of Buddhism that is underway.46 This dissertation
contributes to correcting the outdated perceptions that are still common regarding religion
in post-Mao China.
Related to the study of post-Mao religion is the study of lived religion. Text-based
research typically provides prescriptive accounts of the way doctrine and practice are
scholarship is valuable for its preservation and elaboration of the highest aspirations and
accounts are typically remote from the lived experience of the majority of Chinese
religious believers (those who live in or visit temples, burn incense, make donations and
so on). Buswell, whose Zen Monastic Experience was based on participant observation,
contends that the text-based approach that has dominated Buddhist studies has prevented
Although many scholars have spent time in Asia, too often our research fails to
reflect the living religious environment one finds there. Text-based scholarship reflects
the tendency in Orientalism critiqued by Edward Said in which "abstractions about the
Sounding this note, Stnckmann, somewhat acerbically, writes "Although many North
American Buddhologists (as they barbancally term themselves) enjoy long periods of
publicly subsidized residence in Japan, most seem to prefer the atmosphere of libraries
and language schools to that of the society in which they temporarily dwell Nor do
phenomenal world." Although I think the situation has improved since this was written,
with more scholarship exploring lived religious situations, it remains true that our
understanding of the lived practice of Asian religions remains less developed than our
philological studies This dissertation focuses on the phenomenal world and attempts to
bridge it with non-canonical textual sources. To understand the religious culture of the
The most relevant study of lived religion for my purposes is Adam Chau's
Miraculous Response, a study of popular religion in North China (Chau 2006) Chau
finds the popular explanation of the revival, namely that the Chinese people feel
"spiritually empty" after being let down by the Communist ideology, to be a misguiding
oversimplification. As an alternative, he seeks to lay out the many complex social factors
that have gone into the revival Chief among the factors is the belief in spiritual or
48
     Said 1978 300, Buswell 1992 11
49
     Stnckmann 1990 108, n 3, Buswell 1992 11
worship, building temples, organizing festivals, and many other activities related to the
revival of folk traditions and negotiations with the state—the actions are related to ling in
that they are meant to please the deity and therefore elicit his magical response. Chau
writes: "An adequate interpretation of popular religious revival has to take into
consideration all the different social actors' desires and actions."50 What Chau writes
about popular or folk religion largely applies to much of the "elite" tradition of urban
efficacy in attracting worshipers and their donations. Ling is a central concept in Chinese
religion that has been identified as such by several ethnographers (Jordan 1972; Wolf
1974; Sangren 1987; Weller 1987; Lu 2005). It simply refers to the efficacy of a deity,
efficacious then they will receive more donations (as repayment). In short, the success of
a temple is often linked to its reputation for magical or spiritual efficacy (ling). The place
of ling in the religious and institutional life of Kaiyuan will be a recurrent them in this
dissertation.
worldliness of the priests including the tourism at their temples with their rhetoric of
renunciation. Although his presentation is neutral, he resorts to using the terms "real" and
50
  Chau 2006: 2
Brian J. Nichols                 CHAPTER ONE: Introduction                                    26
examination of the issue of tourism at Kaiyuan I present it from within the walls of the
comprehensive and balanced portrait of life at the monastery which includes accounts of
The concern with lived religion is related to the efforts to develop a re-description
of Chinese Buddhism by reaching beyond the canonical sources and master narratives to
local texts, material cultural and oral testimony(see Ng, Zhiru 2007:18-19; Sharf 2002;
Robson 2010b). This dissertation joins this trend by shifting the focus from doctrinal
debates to institutional practice, from the scriptural cannon to the use of non-canonical
gazetteers, epigraphy and oral history. This shift is made to bring in an alternative pool of
data on religion that will presumably enable scholars to develop a more rounded
understanding of religious phenomena. One sensitive to the lived realities of, in this case,
Asian Buddhists, but one could say the same for most religious traditions. I say all this, it
may be worth noting, as a scholar enamored with canonical depictions of Asian religions.
Within this important project of nuancing the older narratives here and
overturning them there, my dissertation breaks new ground by anchoring this study on a
single significant monastery, which I examine through time and from multiple angles,
rather than focusing, as is customary, on a single lineage, school, text or historic period.
Two previous studies of Chinese monasticism, which serve as the foundation for later
Monasteries (1937) and Holmes Welch's The Practice of Chinese Buddhism 1900-1950
(1967). Taken together these two texts provide an excellent overview of the monastic
layout, monastic architecture, the organization, duties and practices of monks, as well as
Welch refers to as the "elite" or model monks and monasteries as opposed to the much
more numerous monks who lived at small hereditary temples.51 By Welch's estimate the
"model" monasteries constituted about 5% of the total Their goal was to present an
account of the ideal or model of Chinese Buddhist Monasticism This study presents a
common with the models described by Prrp-Moller and Welsh, but details and
observations that neither was able to include because they did not engage m long term
fieldwork at a single active site. Welch, in fact, relied on interviews with refugee monks
in Hong Kong and elsewhere. While material culture is examined by Pnp-Moller, his
approach is strictly descriptive and neither of these foundational studies analyzes the role
of auspicious events, ling, sacred space, tourism and commodification which are
prominent features in the life of many monasteries. Nor do they take a long historical
Monasteries have long been the central pillar of Buddhism throughout Asia and
focusing on the life a single prominent monastery through time presents a portrait of the
Chinese Buddhist experience from one monastery's perspective James Robson has
recently written about the lack of scholarly attention paid to monasteries which he
contrasts with their importance withm Buddhsim. In addition he points out that the
51
   Welch 1967 3-4
57
   Welch has a brief section on examples of extra wage-earnmg techniques, but doesn't examine the
question of commodification (Welch 1967 329-334)
53
   Robson 2010a 2
Brian J Nichols                       CHAPTER ONE Introduction                                      28
"significant gap in our understanding of Chinese Buddhist monasteries." Chapter seven
of this dissertation takes as its focus the memorialization of eminent monks and
preternatural events associated with Kaiyuan and discusses how they contribute to
landscape), the structure (architectural elements), the contents (relics, statuary, paintings,
powerful deities), and the history (eminent monks associated with the site, key political
recognition) of those sites."55 My research confirms that these are features that are
prominent not only in the literature associated with the monastery past and present, but
One of the few exceptions to the lack of attention paid to Buddhist monasteries as
sacred sites is an article by Susan Naquin's on Beijing's Tanzhe Monastery, which makes
for an interesting comparison with my analysis of Quanzhou Kaiyuan.56 She notes how
religious and secular values were fused in the depiction of Tanzhe's sights, but she
doesn't perceive or attempt to analyze the way in which these different factors appeal to
different groups of people, those attracted to the religious values of the monastery and
those by its secularly informed historical and cultural value, which is what I do. My
analysis works with a similar set of observations, but I draw a different, and, perhaps
more precise, set of conclusions. My conclusions are that the diverse factors which
M
  Robson2010b:47-48.
55
   Robson2010b:44.
56
   Naquin 1998.
Brian J. Nichols                 CHAPTER ONE: Introduction                                  29
combine to encourage patronage and protection do so by appealing to both religious and
Thesis Summary
All Buddhist monasteries, if they are to survive, must tend to the institutional
demand to accumulate capital in a systematic way. The basic mechanism for the
capital) for personal property (economic capital). Successful monasteries must tend to
economic and political realities; taking care of these demands is, in large measure, what I
refer to as the institutional dimension of a monastery. Apart from this is the religious
dimension, which is the monastery's raison d'etre. My thesis is that Kaiyuan negotiates a
including devotional practice, material culture and auspicious events. Each signifier is
variably interpreted by monks, laypersons, worshipers, tourists and officials. There are
two dominant interpretations which generate two dominant narratives for Kaiyuan today:
contemporary China because it has successfully promoted qualities that appeal to both
secular and religious forces. The secular and religious interest generated by cultural
popular tourist attraction. I demonstrate that while such a dual identity is common
of religious practices that are conditioned by various factors. One of the key factors is the
extent to which secular authorities are responsible for the administration of a site.
Kaiyuan presents a healthy balance between tourism and religious practice, in part,
because the current abbot has fought to achieve greater autonomy for the sangha.
While tourism can negatively impact the environment for religious practice, it
should not be portrayed simply as a force of corruption at odds with the religious pursuit,
as is typically presumed. Monasteries have been sites of leisure and retreat throughout
history and many individuals are attracted to monastic life by visiting Buddhist sites.
curatorial interest and tourists are the same factors that were instrumental in safeguarding
Kaiyuan during the Cultural Revolution and have been essential in the rebuilding and
While other monasteries, such as Hebei's Longxing Temple, have survived intact
with valuable cultural properties, they do not survive as centers supporting the sangha
because they have fallen under the management and domination of secular authorities.
This dissertation has provided a means for distinguishing monasteries that may be
economically successful but lack infrastructure to cultivate religious practice from those
that are successful both as institutions and as places of religious practice. I develop a
notion of three axes (foundational, physical and functional) around which Kaiyuan has
manner provides a model for determining to what extent other monasteries and temples
may be considered sacred sites that promote religious activities. At the other end of the
These may have once been sacred sites, but they are no longer sites of living religiosity
(at least not as I define "religiosity" in this dissertation—e.g. chapter nine). The factors I
temples or monasteries to determine how well they may or may not accommodate
religious practice and tourism may be achieved, a balance of relevance for religious sites
in all traditions, in all places. My very particular study thus provides findings of
relevance for other monasteries in China and, more generally, for sacred sites.
Chapter Summaries
The chapters of this dissertation examine Kaiyuan monastery from multiple points
of view (time, space, inhabitants and activities, discourse and relations with the state) in
contributions to the religious and institutional life of the monastery. This study begins
with a historical survey of the monastery providing the context in which to understand the
current situation. What unfolds throughout the subsequent chapters is the dual interplay
of secular and non-secular forces that contribute to the monastery's identity as a place of
religious practice and tourism. Kaiyuan proves to be a site where many perceived
dichotomies intersect. Some of the dichotomies that Kaiyuan resists are: sacred/profane,
religious/secular and elite/folk. Also challenged is the notion that commodification and
tourism are necessarily forces of corruption. If they are, one wonders where and when
the Qing dynasty, chapter two surveys more than twelve centuries of history. This chapter
introduces the characteristics of the monastery and the story of its evolution so as to
provide a perspective on the most recent period of revival. Strong patterns that emerge in
this survey of imperial history are patronage by elites, architectural evolution and
engagement and globalization in the Republican period and the "curatorial turn" during
the Maoist era. The curatorial turn sets the stage for the survival of Kaiyuan's material
culture during the Cultural Revolution and globalization aided the post-Mao recovery.
Chapter four traces three stages of the post-Mao recovery of Kaiyuan: laying the
groundwork with the help of Zhao Puchu, full restoration in time for a visit by Jiang
Zemin and the era under Daoyuan's leadership. This chapter details the focus of
non-monastics, re-population of monastic bodies). There has been a clear lack of stress at
Kaiyuan on the revival of traditions of education or training in meditation; this is true for
While chapters two through four are historical in nature and present a diachronic
(through time) view of developments at the monastery, the next five chapters, five
through nine, present essentially synchronic (with time) analyses of features of the
monastery in order to understand the nature of its current revival. Chapter five surveys
monks, laity and worshipers. The characteristic religious behavior of each group is
examined and biographies of five monks are provided. All of this material together
presents a portrait of religious life at Kaiyuan today, a mixture of "elite" and "popular"
the monastic space in a composite manner as well as individual items of cultural heritage.
I examine the role played by material culture in the religious and institutional life of the
monastery. I propose that material culture conditions the religious and aesthetic
experiences of visitors. I also analyze mayor Wang's protection and introduce the
concepts of reverence and civic pride to explain how cultural properties inspire protection
and tourism.
Chapter seven examines how auspicious events associated with eminent monks of
the past are memorialized at Kaiyuan and how these memorials serve to mark the space
as sacred (sanctification) and also provide imagistic nicknames for Kaiyuan (branding).
As were cultural properties in chapter three, memorials to auspicious events are shown to
contribute to Kaiyuan's revival by appealing to both religious and secular interests. Most
which in turn attracts greater numbers of worshipers seeking to have their petitions
a unique window into the current revival of Buddhism in China. Chapter eight examines
Kaiyuan's efforts, under the leadership of Daoyuan, to achieve greater autonomy from
agents of the state, the "curators." This struggle is set in the broader context of the
Buddhist revival in China and introduces comparative data which enables us to appreciate
describe how Buddhist temples have been converted into museum-like spaces to varying
degrees in contemporary China. While Kaiyuan is a popular tourist destination, it has also
succeeded in negotiating an identity which leaves a space for living religious practice.
Chapter nine examines Kaiyuan's dual identity as a tourist site and Buddhist
monastery. I focus, in particular, on the problems associated with tourism and the issue of
commodification. I point out how Kaiyuan has limited the presence of vendors,
maintained distinct borders and buffers and maintained regular daily services and twice-
weekly nianfo sessions. These factors and others, I argue, account for the preservation of
practice. Like tourism, commodification is not inherently at odds with the religious
pursuit. Evidence suggests that tourism and commodification have been dimensions of
The conclusion, chapter ten, reviews the themes of Kaiyuan's religious and
China. The conclusion also considers the contributions of this dissertation to the study of
Chinese Religion, Buddhist Studies and the study of material culture and religion.
Quanzhou Kaiyuan is today, as it has been since its founding, the largest Buddhist
number of monastics and boasts the oldest and most valuable buildings and antiquities.
The Kaiyuan monastery of today is predicated on more than 1,300 years of history.
Traces of these 1,300 years of history remain present at the monastery in the form of
buildings, artifacts, trees, inscriptions and stories that are told by tour guides and
residents. In order to appreciate these features of the monastery one must have an
understanding of their history. This history, punctuated with miraculous events, strewn
with cultural properties and dignified with eminent personages, serves as the source of
the monastery's distinguishing features which have been instrumental in securing its
longevity and reputation. This chapter provides the chronology and historical context in
which these features developed; this, in turn, supplies a framework for understanding the
The present and the following chapter examine the history of Kaiyuan monastery
during its imperial and post-imperial periods respectively. Each chapter surveys the
periods for patterns as well as for singular events of lasting consequence with an eye to
revealing the historical texture of the monastery so that the reader may better understand
not only what a Chinese Buddhist monastery is, but what kinds of information was
considered important by compilers and authors of records such as gazetteers and stele
inscriptions. The present chapter sketches the history of Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery
from its founding in 686 to the end of imperial China in 1911, a span of more than 1,200
years. This history is presented chronologically in six sections: 1. The Tang, 2. The
Interregnum, 3. The Song, 4. The Yuan, 5. The Ming and 6. The Qing. Each section
relates major developments at Kaiyuan monastery and aims to place this information
have also cross-checked this source with Mengguan Shi's ^ U K (a.k.a Dagui)
fourteenth century Biographies of Purple Cloud Bodhisattvas, it was one of the primary
sources used by Yuanxian in his composition of the Kaiyuansi zhi. These sources were
Among the gazetteers consulted were the eighteenth century [Daoguang] Jinjiang County
{Quanzhou fuzhi) and the twelfth century Gazetteer ofFuzhou {Sanshan zhi).
Epigraphical sources include steles from the Tang, Ming and Qing dynasties and in situ
inscriptions from the Song, Yuan and Qing dynasties. Some material on the late Qing
comes from oral interviews with antiquarians and amateur historians in Quanzhou.
materials to the extent possible; if I have used material that was difficult to corroborate
The diachronic perspective employed to relate history in this chapter will reveal
patterns of growth and periods of contraction, times of inspired leadership and times of
neglect. Holmes Welch, in his pioneering surveys of modern Chinese Buddhism, has
occurs when a monastery's buildings have fallen into a state of disrepair and most of its
monks have dispersed Restoration (chongxing M^4) typically begins with the
emergence or appointment of a capable monk who leads the material and moral renewal
of the monastery with lay and monastic support While cycles of decline and renewal are
evident in the history of Kaiyuan, these cycles are far from even or regular
Closely related to patterns of decline and renewal are the mter-related themes of
elite patronage and state involvement (both supportive and regulatory) The Chinese state
has always considered the regulation of religion as one of its tasks State policies and
their implementation have variously promoted and expanded the monastery on the one
hand and suppressed its growth or activities on the other This chapter will reveal the
ways that patronage and neglect are related to broader economic, social and political
of the monastery I refer to this as continual modulation and track the modulation of
Kaiyuan's physical plant and monastic population As this chapter traces Kaiyuan's
imperial period history the contours of elite patronage, state involvement and continual
The six chronological divisions of this chapter exhibit similar, though not
identical, organizational structure Each section begins by relating the history of the
monastery in relation to political and cultural developments of the time both within the
empire at large and locally, within Fujian and Quanzhou This is followed by an account
of the founding of new structures as well as the repair and rebuilding of structures at
local leaders were often important patrons of Kaiyuan. This, in turn, is followed by an
The patterns and themes that emerge in the history of Kaiyuan monastery as well
as unique and salient developments provide a context in which to understand its survival
and current restoration. The diachronic portrayal of the current chapter will serve as a
         In lunar February of 686 (the second year of Chuigong) during the Tang
         dynasty, citizen Huang Shougong H ^ # had a dream while napping. A
         monk begged to have his land for a temple. Mr. Gong said, "Should my
         trees bloom white lotuses, I shall concede." Pleased, the monk thanked
         him and suddenly disappeared. Two days passed and the mulberry trees
         really bloomed white lotuses. The local authorities considered this an
         auspicious story and asked to build a place for practice (daochang M$fr).
         The empress granted permission and named it "Lotus Flower." The monk
         Kuanghu M.ffi was asked to serve as abbot.2
The well known legend cited above relates the story of how Quanzhou Kaiyuan
monastery was established when Huang Shougong M^^fc (629-712) donated his
mulberry orchard to the monk Kuanghu M. J/3 after the mulberry trees miraculously
bloomed white lotus blossoms. While the blooming of lotuses in mulberry trees
2
  Sizhi I.la-b References to the Quanzhou Kaiyuansx zhi withm the body of this text will be abbreviated
Monastery Record and in the notes as Sizhi
3
  At this time during the Tang dynasty peasant families were assigned on average about 13 5 acres per
couple with more land allotted for children This was done so as to provide a fair basis for the per capita tax
system "Only one-fifth of the allotment could be held permanently, usually as a mulberry orchardfor silk
culture; the remainder of the land had to be returned to the government in case of death, or the cultivator's
exceeding the given age limit" (Morton and Lewis 2004 95, emphasis added) This leads me to suspect
that Mr. Huang may have been a rather average land owner in his day, a point that has not been suggested
a land donation to establish a monastery in 686 (or 687) C E 5 It was at precisely this
time that the conversion of private estates into monastic estates had became so
widespread that emperor Xuanzong, in 713, issued a decree to curtail the practice When
the monastery was founded at the end of the seventh century it was located on what was
then a sparsely inhabited frontier coastal plain between the Luoyang /IrPB and Jm Rivers
"BF£1 7 The settlement was not yet called Quanzhou, nor was the monastery called
Kaiyuan When the local authorities petitioned Empress Wu Zetian SiJilll^ (r 683/90-
705),8 an ardent patron of Buddhism, to establish a monastery, she consented and dubbed
in other literature Dates for Elder Huang are from the The History of the Purple Cloud Huang Clan of
Xiangtang [Putian] (Ziyunxiangtang huangshi zupu ^^MMM^M1^,                   Wl^^MMXi$>         TJUH , fflf^
^ , 1 9 8 4 p 280, personal copy of Huang Yushan H 3 L L I | )
4
  The interpretation and use of the story of mulberry trees blooming lotus blossoms will be examined in
chapter five
  Historical records (gazetteers, inscriptions etc ) agree on the timing (686) and the name (Huang Shougong)
of the donor, e g Quanzhou fuzhi book 16 18a-b, Jinjiang xianzhi 69 1650, Bamin tongzhi 1160, Huang
Family History 275-286 The earliest source, an 897 inscription by Huang Tao Mte, however, suggests a
date of one year later Huang Tao's 897 Quanzhou Kaiyuansi fodian beiji M)W JF7C^Fl$f£6$l3("Steie
record of the Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery Buddha Hall") suggests a the year 687 (the third year of
Chmgong) Huang Tao was a poet and official who composed many inscriptions glorifying the works of
Wang Shenzhi This inscription, preserved in the Quan Tang wen 4=rJHX("The Collected Works of Tang
Literature"), includes exaggerations and other suspect information to be mentioned in the discussion of the
Five Buddhas in the Main Hall below so it is not clear that it reflects a more accurate date despite its
greater antiquity The inscription may be found in Dean and Zheng 2003 4-6, Inscription #4 While the
Bamin tongzhi A K i i l ; agrees that the founding year is 686, rather than designating this as the second
year of Chmgong, it records the date as the third year of Sisheng H1= of Tang emperor Zhongzong M^TK,
while Sisheng's reign began in 684 it lasted less than a year, being deposed by his mother, the later
Empress Wu in favor for his younger brother Ruizong See also Wang 2008 11, nt 21
6
  The emperor's decree forbid princes, dukes and other landowners from presenting petitions in their own
names for the transference of their own lands to be used as monasteries or monastic estates See Gernet
1995 122
7
  The "Hills and Rivers" chapter {Shanchuan pian ill Jl| J§) of the Gazetteer of Quanzhou Prefecture
(Quanzhou fuzhi MJWJfi*) relates a legend that claims the Jm River was named for the Jin T=r dynasty by
those who settled m the region of Quanzhou fleeing the collapse of the Jm dynasty as it fell to Northern
nomads m the fourth century See Cheng 1939 9 who argues that archeological finds support this legend
It should also be noted that the Luoyang River may be seen to be named for the Jin capital of Luoyang /§
m
8
 Empress Wu was the only woman in Chinese history to assume the title of emperor It was suggested that
she was an incarnation of the Buddha Maitreya by the monks Huaiyi and Falang in their translation of and
Brian J Nichols                     CHAPTER TWO Imperial Historv                                         41
it the "Lotus Flower Temple" in commemoration of the incredible appearance of lotus
The monk Kuanghu was asked to serve as the first abbot and he immediately set
out to build a main hall. Tradition holds that as the main hall was being built a purple
cloud was seen hovering over the area. Recognizing this as an auspicious sign, the hall
was nicknamed the "Purple Cloud Hall" and the monastery itself became nicknamed the
"Purple Cloud." The main gate, referred to as the threefold gate (sanmen H f l ) , 9 was
built the following year, in 687. That same year Kuanghu built the Venerated Site
Cloister (zunsheng yuan W-W$fc) which contained his living quarters. The cloister
would have also contained a shrine to the land where the monastery was built. Within two
years, then, Kuanghu had established three structures that formed the initial nucleus of
the monastery: the main gate, the main hall and the Venerated Site Cloister.
The Kaiyuan JFTU period of Emperor Xuanzong which lasted from 713 to 741 is
noteworthy in religious history. It was during this period that the first Daoist cannon was
compiled as well as the catalogue of Buddhist translations in China up to that time, the
commentary to the Mahamegha Sutra (Great Cloud Sutra JKTXH). Considered apocryphal by many
scholars, an earlier and "undoctored" version at Dunhuang suggests there was a Sanskrit original. See Nmg
2004' 114. On Empress Wu and her relations with Huaiyi etc. see Forte 1976. For more on Empress Wu
see Guisso 1978 It was also Empress Wu who invited the important Chan monk Shenxiu ? $ ^ (6067-706)
to the capital at Luoyang. McRae points out that the support and reverence given to Shenxiu by the
empress made it possible for the preservation of Shenxiu's teachings, making Shenxiu the earliest historical
figure in the Chan tradition of whom we possess a detailed record of his ideas (McRae 2003: 46-53)
9
  At other monasteries it may be called a "mountain gate" shanmen ill fl
10
   1 have translated zunsheng W& as "venerated site," since the cloister was built m the place where lotus
are said to have miraculously bloomed in mulberry trees. I would like to point out that it could be
translated as "great" or "honorable" "victory" as the phrase is used to translate the Sanskrit term vijaya
11
   It was also the time of the compilation of the Tang dynasty code of rituals, the Da Tang Kaiyuan Li ~%M
Jf TC^L completed in 732 See McMullen 1987 for a discussion of the background, contents and legacy of
the Da Tang Kaiyuan Li
wuwei # ^ 5 ^ : , 637-735) arrived in the capital of Chang'an -fe;£c (today's Xi'an ]5;$c) in
                                          17
716 and became the national teacher. Not long thereafter, the central Asian Tantric
master Vajrabodhi (Jin'gang zhi ^R'J^ 1 , 671-741) and his student Amoghavajra (Bukong
Noted for his dedication to Daoism, Emperor Xuanzong also expressed interest in Tantra;
rain, and, in 746, sought Amoghavajra's ritual assistance for victory on the battlefield.14
In a move that would ultimately cause the name of this vibrant era to remain in
named for the current period, that of Kaiyuan.15 In 738, then, our monastery received the
name by which it has been known since, Kaiyuan monastery. As part of their
such as that marking the emperor's birthday, services on the fifteenth day of the first,
seventh and tenth months of the lunar year and memorial services for deceased
emperors.1 Charged with responsibilities to honor the emperor, Kaiyuan was sent a
buddha statue by Emperor Xuanzong himself; for reasons to be discussed below I take
this statue, installed in Kaiyuan's main hall, to be that of the Buddha Vairocana.
12
   For his biography see Chou 1945. 251-272, reprinted in Payne 2005 39-47
13
   Stnckmann 2002 228-229 Vajrabodhi, a native of South India, reached Canton by sea in 719. For
biographies of Vajrabhodhi and Amoghavajra see Chou 1945 272-284, 284-307 reprinted m Payne 2005.
47-60
14
   Ebrey and Gregory 1993 2
15
   According to Chou Yi-hang the Empress Wu had ordered the establishment of temples in each prefecture
and capital named "Great Cloud" (dayun ~J\TX) in 690 and it was these that were changed to Kaiyuan m
738 (Chou 1945 nt 47 p 293) Whilethismay true, there is no record of Quanzhou Kaiyuan having been
named "Great Cloud "
16
   In prefectures which maintained a Longxing monastery, the ceremony for deceased emperors would be
held there rather than at the Kaiyuan Chen 1964 223
main hall today which reads "Buddha statue bestowed by the emperor" (yucifoxiang t$P
JIM)- 17
         While Buddhism enjoyed imperial patronage throughout much of the Tang
dynasty, it was also during the Tang that it was suppressed with great force by Emperor
Wuzong MtTF. (r. 841-846) who led the Huichang Persecution of Buddhism z?l!£fe)*t
from 841 to 845. The Huichang Persecution dealt Buddhism a crippling blow. The
Chinese Buddhism reached a climax during the Tang dynasty marked by vibrant doctrinal
and institutional developments that dramatically Sinified Buddhism. This apogee, so the
narrative holds, collapsed in the Huichang persecution of 845; the widespread laicizing of
monks and destruction of monasteries and texts is said to have "damaged the Buddha
sangha permanently."18 Both theses, that of the permanently damaged sangha and the
Tang Buddhist apogee, are problematic, especially with respect to Fujian. While the
synthesis of Indian materials may be seen to have reached a climax in the Tang, it is far
from evident that Chinese Buddhism reached its "golden age." Scholars are now taking a
closer look at the Song dynasty which brought about a level of maturation in Buddhist
thought and practice that may well turn out to be as important as the doctrinal and
   The date of this inscription is not known but I believe it to be from the Yuan dynasty as that is when we
have recorded of a list of six unique sites being articulated, one of which is the "imperially-bestowed
Buddha image " Furthermore it is in a different style that other Ming dynasty sculptures at the Mam Hall It
appears to have been saved from an early building and incorporated into the Ming building. It was present
when a survey of antiquities was conducted in the early years of the People's Republic, but it was not listed,
Wang Hanfeng 3HSW, notes its origin is unknown (Wang 2001 5)
18
   Ibid 226-233 On the year 845, Chen says, "That year is therefore a pivotal date, marking the end of the
apogee and the beginning of the decline of the religion " Ibid.: 232
Chinese Buddhism.19
Buddhism in Fujian certainly remained vibrant from the end of Tang rule in
Fujian in 879 until the closing years of the Yuan dynasty (1280-1368); if Kaiyuan temple
enjoyed a golden age it was during the 500 years between 850 and 1350. Kaiyuan's
properties were spared in the Huichang Persecution because Kaiyuan, as the official state
refugees from the North and more monasteries were established, cloisters were
established at Kaiyuan to accommodate masters and their disciples. The first two were
the Western Arhat Cloister and the Eastern Vinaya Cloister. In 865 a wooden pagoda was
built in the eastern part of the monastic grounds and named"Country Stabilizer"
through several transformations over the next four hundred years, it had been established
Quanzhou Kaiyuan's first two hundred years were a period of continual growth
and development. During this period Kaiyuan produced structures and cultural properties
that remain part of its identity today, namely, the mulberry tree, the east pagoda, the main
hall, the gate, a sutra library, and the mummy of master Zhiliang ^ ^ , one of three
thought to have been an Indian, is reputed to have possessed the power to bring rain. His
mummified corpse, said to remain at Kaiyuan monastery, was known for its spiritual
19
     See, for example, Gregory and Getz 2002: 1-6; Ebrey and Gregory 1993: 20-22; McRae 2003: 119-121.
and the presence of Indians in Quanzhou is therefore plausible. Kuanghu, the founding
abbot, is said to have strictly adhered to the vinaya and to have lectured to large crowds
on the Sutra of Maitreya's Ascent to Tusita Heaven (Shangsheng jing _L^£i£5) during
summer retreats. Wencheng, who built the first East pagoda, had established a reputation
as an imminent monk before being invited to Kaiyuan. He was principled and kept to
himself; contented with chanting the Diamond Sutra (Jin'gang jing ifeHlJIr), he did not
THE P O S T - T A N G I N T E R R E G N U M
Expansion under Wang Family Patronage |J£| tfi^ie
"In days of old this was a Buddhist kingdom, the streets were full of sages."21
How did Quanzhou and Kaiyuan monastery fare in the turmoil that accompanied
and followed the dissolution of the Tang dynasty? They both thrived. With the fall of the
Tang and the ascent of Wang 3i family rule in Fujian, Quanzhou and Kaiyuan monastery
began their climb to national and ultimately international distinction. The Wang family's
institution in Fujian apart from the state and secured Quanzhou and Kaiyuan monastery
as centers of Buddhism in China. The Wang family, according to the twelfth century
hundreds of Buddhist images cast, thousands of volumes of scripture copied, and oversaw
the ordination of thousands of monks over the course of their sixty-odd years of rule in
Fujian from 884 to 945. The Song dynasty Neo-Confucian scholar Huang Gan M^fc
(1152-1221) reported that, "After the Wang's entered Fujian belief in Buddhism became
extremely enmeshed in the culture, Fujian abounded with temples and pagodas, more
than anywhere under heaven. Inside peoples' homes were wooden statues and portraits of
Buddha and the items one would find in the halls of a temple inside the living room.
People carried out morning and evening worship with diligence."24 One would have to
survey records for other provinces to assess the extent to which Huang Gan was
exaggerating, if at all, when he said that since the Wang family patronized Buddhism in
Fujian, the province came to have more temples than anywhere; as for Fujian, I have
counted 4,521 Buddhist temples, cloisters and nunneries in the fifteenth century gazetteer
of Fujian, the Bamin tongzhi—no small number.25 Given the importance of their
patronage of Buddhism and Kaiyuan, I will review the establishment of rule by the Wang
family in Fujian, with special mention of the prefects Wang Yanbin 3 £ J 2 ^ and his
father, Wang Shengui ZE^iP, who, according to our records, are Kaiyuan's first great
22
   Liang Kejia $k^M~, writing in the twelfth century, counted a total of 781 temples in Fuzhou at the end of
the interregnum, a number including an additional 221 temples built immediately after Wang family rule.
(Chunxi) Sanshan zhi 33:2a
23
   884 is the year that Wang Chao entered Quanzhou, laid siege and ultimately gained control of the city
and served as prefect From 944-945 the Empire of Mm collapse and most of the Wang family was
eradicated Thus my years for Wang rule in Fujian- 884-945.
Quanzhou, captured and beheaded Liao Yanrou and declared himself prefect.26
Buddhism was well established in Quanzhou and it may have been reasons of political
expediency that led Wang Chao and his brothers to patronize Buddhism in Quanzhou and
sponsored the copying of three thousand volumes (Juan ^ ) of the Tripitika (dazangjing
~^MM.) for Kaiyuan's Sutra Library.27 The fact that Wang Chao's contribution to
Kaiyuan was a sutra library rather than a statue, pagoda or cloister, suggests a dedication
to learning that marked the development of Quanzhou during the interregnum. John
Chaffee has suggested that the phenomenal success of Quanzhou in earning jinshi
degrees throughout the Song, was built upon "not merely a tradition of government
service but also an unusual commitment to classical education during the Min period, a
widespread willingness to assume literati lifestyles and values."28 Wang's choice of gift
may be read as an indication of such dedication to learning that put Quanzhou on its path
Wang Chao died January 2, 898 and Wang Shenzhi took over leadership of the
kingdom of Min. Shenzhi was a great patron of Buddhism in Fujian and is credited with
    Sima Guang's Zizh tongjian tells the story of the Wang family's journey from Henan refugees to
dominance of Fujian The narrative contains a tradition that elders of Quanzhou requested Wang Chao to
free them from the misrule of Quanzhou prefect Liao Yanrou M^^(Zizhi tongjian [1956 vol
18] 256 8320, 8325-6, 8339 ) It is not known whether or not this is a later justification for the year long
siege which brought down Quanzhou in the autumn of 886 (Clark 1991 39, nt 3, pp 208-209 )
 27
     Sizhi I 10a See also Puyang Huangyushi 46b, Clark 1991 60, Clark 1981 142
28
    Chaffee 1995 150
29
    In the first century of the Song Quanzhou produced an impressive 194 jinshi The province of Fujian
produced more jinshi than any other region throughout the Song Fujian's total number of /inshi for the
Song were 7,144 See Chaffee 1995 132-133, 149 Chaffee includes charts of'jinshi awarded by region
support for Buddhism and adds that "Shenzhi too was infatuated with that doctrine, and
quite exhausted building materials in raising Indian edifices."30 Many sources attest to
Wang Shenzhi's dedication to the Buddhist Sangha and many of the statues and
Quanzhou he initially lived at Kaiyuan monastery.32 Kaiyuan monastery was located just
outside the Western wall of the city and would have been an ideal place to reside during
the siege of Quanzhou in 884. It is not known how long he stayed at the monastery, but I
believe he remained there for two or more years for it is said that his son Yanbin was
born in one of Kaiyuan's halls, which most likely took place in 885 or 886.33 Kaiyuan
monastery thus held a special significance for both Shengui and his son Yanbin and the
two of them became two of its most important patrons. The Monastery Record suggests
that in 895, soon after Shengui took office, a fire broke out which destroyed Kaiyuan's
main hall, sutra library and bell tower. Regardless of precisely when and how these
each of them rebuilt in or around 897. Shengui had a new bell cast and installed in a new
bell tower.34 Most significantly, he had four Buddha statues made and added to the one
figure that had been donated by Emperor Xuanzong. This innovation brought the number
of Buddhas in the main hall to five with the original statue donated by the emperor
occupying the central position. Soon afterwards, Zhaowu ^j'ill, who is described as a
monk from the West, brought pratyekabuddha (pizhifo SZ^Ci'^) relics to enshrine in the
statues.35
The presence of five Buddhas in one hall immediately evokes the five Buddhas of
bringing the total of Buddhas in the main hall to five, as it has remained to this day; but
these five Buddhas were, as they are now, most likely the Buddhas of the five directions
                                                                   •j/r
would have been present in China since at least the early eighth century when
Subhakarasimha and Vajrabodhi were busy translating Tantric scriptures and producing
   This would be Kaiyuan's last bell tower; after this bell tower was destroyed it was never rebuilt.
35
   Ziyun kaishi zhuan 15b and Sizhi 1.2b. Given the establishment of maritime links at this time, the "West"
likely refers to India.
36
   The earliest inscription recorded in the Monastery Record dates from the time of Shengui's rebuilding of
the hall in 897. This inscription relates the rebuilding of the main hall by Shengui and describes the statues
inside as follows: "From the east there are Kasyapa Buddha (Jiayefo M0fi%) and Shakyamuni Buddha
(Shijiamunifo MM%-J&ift>), to the left and right [of these] are Maitreya Buddha {Milefo $$.W)i%),
Amitabha Buddha (Mituofo ?iRPttt), Ananda, Mahakasyapa, Bodhisattvas and guardians." Sizhi 2.3a.
Unfortunately, the inscription imprecisely meanders at the end and only mentions four Buddhas, rather than
five, and these Buddhas are not ones traditionally placed together. The author of the inscription is Huang
Tao (840-911), a famous Tang dynasty poet and military official from Putian, Fujian. Huang Tao authored
many inscriptions glorifying Wang Shenzhi and here seems to be engaged in more of the same, that is, he
seems more concerned to flatter Wang Shenzhi (he "could advise Sunzi # - ? in the art of war and teach the
ancients of the Xia JE and Shang jt| dynasties the arts of civilization") than to record the details of Wang
Shengui's rebuilding. I agree with the scholar Wang Hanfeng ZEUW, that Huang Tao's inscription is not a
reliable source of identifications for Shengui's additional Buddhas and they were most likely four Buddhas
to complete a group of Buddhas of the five directions (Wang 2001: 4-5.)
also the time when emperor Xuanzong donated the original statue in the main hall.
Although the identity of this Buddha figure is not specified, given emperor Xuanzong's
keen interest in esoteric Buddhism as well as the general presence and dominance of
Tantra at the time, it is most likely that the single statue installed in 738 was of Vairocana
Buddha, the central Buddha (literally and figuratively) of esoteric Buddhism. In 724-5,
Chinese disciple Yixing —'^7(683-727). This text is one of the two most important texts
explaining the cause, root and culmination of perfect enlightenment as well as the
and all-knowing Vairocana would have been an especially appropriate Buddha to install
at Kaiyuan monastery as one of the monasteries responsible for safeguarding the nation.
Amitabha (Amituofo H ' S K ' ^ ) and Amoghasiddhi (Chengjiufo J$,ifc{;$). This group of
five Buddhas is the most plausible grouping, and it matches the identity of the five
temporal authority and that of the Wang family by acting in a manner analogous to the
37
  Chou 1945 280-281
38
  The Vairocanabhisambodhi-sutra (Taisho no 848) is available in English translation by Giebel 2005
The other basic text of East Asian esoteric Buddhism is the Sarvatathdgatatattvasamgrarha Giebel
2005 xv-xvn
circumstantial evidence, the origin of the five Buddhas of esoteric Buddhism enshrined in
the main hall of Kaiyuan can be traced back to this formative time between imperial
dynasties
Quanzhou prefect Wang Shengui died in 904 and was succeeded by his son Wang
Yanbm, who was then about 18 or 19 years old. He had been born in one of Kaiyuan's
halls withm two or three years after the arrival of the Wang clan in 884 It is said that his
birth was marked by the auspicious appearance of a white sparrow which nested in this
hall at the time of his birth and departed at the time of his death 39 Wang Yanbm was a
than any other smgle individual. After Wang Yanbm's active tenure as prefect, both the
city of Quanzhou and Kaiyuan monastery were on their way to national, and ultimately
encouraging the maritime trade that would make Quanzhou a cosmopolitan hub of
international products and world religions For his role in the development of overseas
trade he was called the "official who beckons treasure" (Zhaobao Si3E) 40
Wang Yanbm served as prefect of Quanzhou from 904 to 930 In the first years
of his reign as prefect, Yanbin enlarged the city walls that had been built during the Tang
dynasty Specifically, he had the wall extended to enclose the Xichan Temple H ^ ^ f
                                   ]
where his sister lived as a nun        It was also early in his career as prefect that he built a
39
   Wuguo gush b 9b
40
   Wuguo gush b 9b See also Schafer 1954 78
41
   Jinjiang xianzhi, Clark 1981 143-144
Hangzhou, had arrived in Fujian in 879 and become one of the principal disciples of the
extremely influential Chan master Xuefeng Yicun W^SL^- (J. Seppo Gison 822-908).
When Huileng's master, Xuefeng, died in 908, Huileng accepted the position offered by
leave Fuzhou and take up residence in Quanzhou thus making it an alternative center of
Min Buddhism. At the same time, it should not be seen in purely instrumental terms, for
multiple sources indicate that Wang Yanbin possessed an abiding reverence for Buddhist
masters and an unmatched enthusiasm for their promotion. It is said that Yanbin "was a
Chan masters visited, he would keep them as long as he could."44 The Compendium of
the Five Lamps (Wudeng huiyan H'MitkWi) includes Wang Yanbin as a disciple of
Huileng and one of the venerable ancestors of the Chan school. Yanbin thus appears on
42
   Xuefeng had many eminent disciples One of his direct disciples was Yunmen Wenyan z? nX'fll(864-
949) founding patriarch of the Yumen zc |'1(J Ummon) school of Chan. One of his great-grand disciples
was Fayan Wenyi y4Kt3tia(885-959), the founding patriarch of the Fayan SBS (J. Hogen) school of
Chan From his teaching, then, arose two of the five traditional houses of Chan See Dumoulin 2005 230-
236 for an introduction to these two schools and their founding patriarchs For more on Huileng see
Ferguson 2000 278-281 Huileng also studied under Xuefeng's disciple Xuansha Shibei "^^llfpiS-. Shibei
received dharma transmission from Chan master Xuefeng and became was the abbot of the Fuzhou's
Xuefeng monastery =filil|^f and the leading Chan master of Fujian at the time
4j
   Such has been the view of Suzuki Tetsuo and Hugh Clark See Suzuki Tetsuo 1975 "Senshu m okderu
zsenshu Godaijidai o chushin to site" in Indogaku Bukkyogaku kenkyu 24 1, Ibid 136-13 and Clark 1991
41
44
   Wuguo Gush b 9b, See also Clark 1981 178, nt 19
with Buddhist masters at Kaiyuan in offering them promotions, building them residences
while alive and pagodas when deceased. Yanbin received imperial titles for the monks
Shuduan, Xili H4L and Daozhao iUBci (d. 951) — Shuduan received the title Bright
Teacher B^ifc; Xili received the title Blithe Great Master iHilr^vjlfp as well as a purple
robe. Daozhao is credited with authoring eighty volumes (juan "%) of commentary on
»S5).
         Yanbin invited master Shiji, who was held in highest regard by Xuefeng and
several Quanzhou prefects, to Luyang p P0; Shiji later built a residence at Kaiyuan.47 In
916, during Yanbin's tenure as prefect, the Western pagoda was first constructed by
Yanbin's uncle and king of Min, Wang Shenzhi; it was a wooden seven-story pagoda
named the "Pagoda of Amitayus" (lit. "infinite life" wuliang shou J l f ) . At the same
45
   Xuzangjmg Vol. 81, No. 1571 HM^tHf. Four koans associated with Yanbin are found translated into
English m Ferguson 2000304-305.
46
   Details of cloisters established during the time and Yanbin and names of monks included in the appendix
history.
47
   Sizhi I.29a-b, biography #17.
^ , r. 926-936). Tradition holds that Min emperor Wang Yanjun is said have ordered a
survey to rank the land into three grades the best of which was divided among Buddhist
and Daoist monasteries.48 Whether or not such a policy was actually implemented, it is
clear that Buddhist monasteries controlled most of the best land in Fujian by the start of
the Song. It is also recorded that Yanjun decreed that 20,000 monks were to be allowed
ordained in Fujian and his successor, Wang Xi 3EBH(r. 940-943), authorized another
11,000 be ordained. Since that time people have said, "There are many monks in
during this period are those mentioned by emperor Taizong ^ T J ? of the Song dynasty
(r.976-998) who reported 4,000 novices and several 10,000s of fully ordained monks—
economic strain thought to be generated by the need to support so many monks in Fujian,
Taizong remarked: "Of old, one man could feed three others and still have enough for
The patronage of Wang Yanbin and the Wang family demonstrates the
connections between Kaiyuan monastery, political elites and the city of Quanzhou that
remains a feature of Kaiyuan's identity from that time to the present. In general, when
w
 Songshi 173 4191 Clark 1981 142-143,215 Clark 1991 61
49
   Zizhi tongjian 276 9026 and 282 9216 respectively [1956 v 19] See also Clark 2007 183
50
   Zizhi tongjian 276 9026 [1956 v 19]
                                                                                                   th
MMU&Z-O M)\m*M®&%m%m=f-£A, ^Bmrnmnx,                                   x*jnm.       L I Y ™ ^ (12
C ), Songchao shishi'jf.%f<Mr^("Records of the Song Dynasty") 7 23a See also Clark 1991 62 and Clark
1981 214-215 Despite the imperial critique, there is no record of Kaiyuan suffering loss of land at that
time
support of the same political elite. History has shown furthermore that even when
Quanzhou is not thriving, political or military elites will step in to support Kaiyuan. This
is not to attribute the success of Kaiyuan solely to such support, but only to recognize it
Quanzhou Kaiyuan or Fujian, but is found through Chinese monastic history, especially
The Fall of the Wang Family and the End of the Interregnum
From 944 to 945 the empire of Mm collapsed. By 948 only Quanzhou under Liu
Congxiao &l)A$fc and Zhangzhou W')M under Dong Si'an i t S ; ^ remained independent
with Fuzhou having fallen to the kingdom of Wu-Yue and Jianzhou and Tingzhou under
the Southern Tang 52 Dong Si'an was a military commander from Quanzhou and a Wang
family loyalist who stayed with the Wang's till the very end. His undying loyalty to the
Wang's who had been great patrons of Kaiyuan and builders of Quanzhou earned him the
great respect of the people of Fujian and a shrine at Kaiyuan monastery during the
Southern Song 53 Kaiyuan's Resting Hermit Chan Cloister (qiyin chanyuan ffilB?4K )
was built as an ancestral hall for Dong Si'an by his wife, Ying Chuajun l/ljl|fl, and son
   Schaffer 1954 53-62 Events covered in Sima Guang's Zizhi tongzhi vols 284-287 See also Clark
1981 140-141
53
   In the old Donor's Ancestral Shrine Sizhi I 10b
    During the Song dynasty it became a public Chan cloister with the Chan masters Ziran § ^ and
Youping ^k v\- both serving terms as abbot (Sizhi I 16a) The building of monasteries and cloisters by
private individuals for their deceased relations had long been a common practice in China See Gernet
1995 283 Clark explores the development of sites for the observance of ancestral rites in Minnan in
chapter seven of his Portiait of a Community (Clark 2007)
his close associate Chen Hongjin PlR^Jit (r. 962-978). The vitality of Chan in Quanzhou
during the reign of Liu Congxiao is suggested by the compilation of the Anthology of the
Patriarch Hall {Zutangji $L;sL'M), the earliest known text in the "transmission of the
monastery.55 Liu is said to have donated his south garden {nanyuan WM) for the
most important monasteries; it's founding is associated with Liu's donation rather than
any auspicious or miraculous event such as Kaiyuan. He also founded Kaiyuan's Eastern
In the mid 960's, Chen Hongjin enlarged the wall so that it would enclose
Chongfu Monastery IKIB^F which Hongjin had built for his daughter who lived there as
         CO
a nun. Chongfu became Quanzhou's third most important Buddhist monastery (after
Kaiyuan and Chengtian). Like Chengtian, its origin lacks the legendary character of
Kaiyuan (a point that will become more significant when we examine memorials to
auspicious events in chapter seven). Chen Hongjm was the last holdout in South China to
   The Zutangji fflUft contains the earliest known reference to Chan master Liji founder of the Lmji or
Rmzai school of Zen (Albert Welter, "The Formation of the Linjji lu") and it contains more than 200
biographies and the earliest lineage of Chan masters with multiple branches after Humeng (Faulk and
Sharf 2003 "Chan Portraiture m Medieval China " m Faure (ed ). Chan Buddhism in Ritual Context, 98-
99 ) Lost in China, the Zutangji was preserved in Korea having been included in the 1245 Korean
Buddhist Cannon at Hemsa (Faure 1993 109)
56
   Jinpang xianzhi 69 1653 See also Clark2007 182
57
   Ruyue's grand-disciple Zhitian Mffi was also a well-known Chan master (Sizhi I 16a, 38b)
58
   Jinjiangxianzhi 69 1654, Clark 1981 143-144
(or sub-temples) at Kaiyuan in tandem with the founding of Quanzhou's second and third
place where Buddhism received support that allowed it to not only persevere but to thrive
and develop. This is particularly evident with respect to the Chan school in Fujian with
luminaries such as Yanbin's master Huileng, but especially Huileng's master Xuefeng. It
was also in this period that the Anthology of the Patriarchal Hall was compiled in
Quanzhou. Clark, Chikusa Masaaki and Xu Xiaowang f^B^M , three historians of this
period of history in Fujian writing in English, Japanese and Chinese, all single out the
increasing power of Buddhism under the patronage of the Wang family as one of the
distinctive features of the period.59 While Quanzhou's Kaiyuan temple was founded and
given the national orientation of a "Kaiyuan" temple during the Tang dynasty, it took
shape as the central monastery of Quanzhou, a rising urban and maritime power during
the post-Tang interregnum. It was then that it became a home of eminent monks that were
patronage and policies of the Wang family of He'nan as well as their successors, prefects
By the onset of the Song, Kaiyuan was a growing monastery with dozens of
cloisters (or sub-temples) that were led by Chan masters, masters of the vinaya and
masters of Yogacara. I consider thirty-five to forty a conservative estimate for the actual
number of cloisters established before the Song. Some of these cloisters were built near
other monastic buildings of the monastery's central axis, others were slightly removed in
59
  See Xu 2004' 134-135 Chikusa Masaaki writing about Buddhism in Fujian during the late Tang and Mm
has argued that "as a result of the patronage of the Wang family, Buddhism became the single most
important institution m the province" (Masaaki 1982 46). See also Clark 1981 142
somewhat autonomous individual colleges that are responsible for hiring faculty,
admitting students and training them in special fields. In Kaiyuan's case, cloisters were
or masters who exhibited proficiency in particular texts such as the Lotus Sutra or the
Weishi lun. These masters would accept disciples who trained under them and lived in
producing accomplished disciples and grand disciples. This system highlights the nature
of Kaiyuan as a truly public monastery where monks are ordained and trained by many
different lineages representing different teaching traditions within Buddhism. With the
This system produced many eminent monks and was strong transmitter of culture and
education. While this system of education was marked by Buddhist doctrinal and
art and engineering —we will encounter Kaiyuan monks that held expertise in the
60
   Gregory Levine's Daitokuji The Visual Cultures of a Zen Monasterv (2005) examines the artistic
treasures of Daitokuji and the social dimensions of their creation, use and display in the monastic setting.
                                                                                l
this period. Among the Chan masters mentioned are Changji %R,                       Xingtong trill 6 2
                           3
and Congyun M.it.              Chan master Qinghuo yftir§ was ordained at Mt. Drum (Gushan)
Pu).64 Chen Hongjin petitioned the emperor who bestowed Qinghuo with the purple robe
and the title "Emptiness" (Xingkong 1 4 $ ) . Lingyan •§• s" was known for teaching the
Lotus Sutra and the Mile Shangsheng Sutra.65 Master Xicen ffi ^ was a master of both
the vinaya and Vasubandhu's Abhidharmakosa. Liu Congxiao petitioned the emperor
who bestowed upon Xicen a purple robe and the title, Great Master Chan Jiao llit^. 66
Master Xixia ftjil, a dharma brother of Xicen, was renowned for his lifestyle of austere
simplicity; he visited many Chan masters and retired into a small hut in the Northeast
                       7
corner of Kaiyuan.
monastery abounding in eminent monks, graced with two pagodas and featuring a main
hall with five Buddhas. It would seem that the following description of Quanzhou
attributed to the great Confucian scholar Zhu Xi 7^11 (1130-1200) must refer to this rich
period of Kaiyuan's history: "In days of old this was a Buddhist kingdom, its streets were
full of sages." This couplet, in the calligraphy of master Hongyi, today hangs outside the
61
   Sizhi I.22b-23a, Biography #5.
62
   Sizhi I.28b-29a, biography #16 He once successfully predicted a drought-ending ram during the rule of
Chen Hongjm.
63
   Sizhi I.26b-27a, biography #12.
64
   Sizhi I.31b-32b, biography #22
65
   Sizhi I.23a.
66
   Sizhi I.29b-30a, biography #18.
"Sizhi I.30a-b, biography #19.
Kaiyuan at this early period had flowered into a monastery marked by three traits
that would continue to shape its identity for centuries to come: it was made grand by
cultural properties, its founding had been marked by auspicious events that set it apart
from Quanzhou's other major monasteries (e.g. Chengtian and Chongfu) and it served as
home to eminent monks that attracted patrons and preserved its reputation as a place of
extraordinary merit. These three factors and how they have contributed to Kaiyuan's
religious and institutional life will be the focus of chapters six and seven.
The flurry of sub-temple construction at Kaiyuan may have slowed with the end
of Wang family rule, but it continued through the twelfth century. Kaiyuan had become a
center of Buddhism in Fujian with imperial patronage under the Tang and the patronage
of the Wang family and the prefects of Quanzhou during the post-Tang interregnum.
While several distinctive features had taken shape such as the main hall with five
Buddhas and the two pagodas, there was still no Chan hall or ordination platform; these
The Song Dynasty 5j?f^ (960-1279) came eighteen years later to Southern Fujian
(Minnan (£|^) than it had to other parts of China; it arrived in 978. By this time
goods from the Indian Ocean and Southeast Asia to China's inland cities. The wealth
generated by this trade would lead to the construction of magnificent stone bridges and
pagodas throughout the region that have remained remarkably well preserved into the
a local tradition which is not found in other parts of China [See figures 29-31].68 The two
major developments to the physical plant of Kaiyuan monastery during this period both
involved monumental construction carried out under the careful guidance of Buddhist
monks. The first was the establishment of Kaiyuan's Ordination Platform. The second
was the conversion of the East and West pagodas from brick into stone toward the end of
the Song dynasty from 1228 to 1250. We will come to these developments as we survey
the history of Kaiyuan in the context of developments in the city of Quanzhou during the
Song dynasty. As was the case in the earlier centuries, Kaiyuan's fortunes will be found
The Song dynasty is divided into two periods: the Northern Song (960-1126) with
its capital at Kaifeng JfM and the Southern Song (1127-1279) with its capital at
Hangzhou. Throughout the Song, Quanzhou developed into a thriving metropolis with
what was possibly the busiest international port of the medieval world. Quanzhou had
morphed from a malarial plain beyond China's frontiers into a prosperous and
cosmopolitan city. It produced scores of Confucian literati and Chan masters and played
tenth and eleventh centuries which was vital in supporting its rapidly growing
   Pearson et a] 2002 34 Two detailed studies of the pagodas exist which examine their artistry and
architecture Ecke and Demieville's Pagodas oj Zayton (1935) and Wang Hanfeng's Quanzhou dongxi ta
7 E iUI|£Big(Quanzhou's East and West Pagodas, 1992)
monasteries in the region which held large tracts of the most productive land. By the
Southern Song, Kaiyuan held 273.5 qing tpi (about 4,620 acres)70 of land, which may
have been the largest amount of land then held by a monastery in the region.71 The
largest temple in Fuzhou, by comparison, is said to have held 150 qing (about 2,500
acres) of land72 and a wealthy individual may have held as little as 10 qing of land.73
Kaiyuan's impressive land holdings provided it with the income needed to maintain a
While much of the landed wealth was in the hands of monasteries, the
prosperity. Quanzhou's growing international trade was recognized by the state in 1087
with the establishment of a customs office known as a trade superintendency {shibosi TfT
J-jflB]). The move was immediately rewarded and revenue from customs tax doubled from
500,000 to 1,000,000 strings of cash.74 Trade continued to expand for the next hundred
As if marking the official recognition of Quanzhou's port by the state, a tall stone
pagoda named Stone Lake Pagoda was erected at the entrance of Quanzhou Bay in 1111,
serving as a landmark of the city and a lighthouse for ships entering and exiting the bay.
6y
   So 2000 27-29 Clark 1991:74-75
70
   One qing tjS is about 16.7 acres or 100 mu m
71
   The Sizhi II.35a-37b gives the land holdings as follows In Jinjiang district 95qing tj5! 8mu ~m ifen yA, in
Nan'an 90qing 65mu Ifen, in Huian 36qing 16mu, in Tong'an 44mu Ah JM \hao m, in Anxi \6qmg, 12>mu
6fen, in Yongchun lOqing 29mu 5fen, in Xianyou \5qing 56mu 5fen, Putian Iqing 16mu Ifen, in Longxi
and Changtai 5qing \4mu dqian tfe These figures make a total of approximately 273 5 qing
72
   So 2000 32, Chikusa 1956 "Sodai Fukken no Shakai tojim," Toyoshi kenkyu 15 (no2) pp 6-7
73
   So 2000 321, nt 48
74
   Clarke 2001 52 Trade superintendences had already been opened in Guangzhou in 971, Hangzhou and
Mmgzhou in the 980s Guy 2001 286-87, Chaffee 2006 403, Clark 1981 246
75
   So 2000 53 Zheng Xia's Xitangji H±Jf H 8 20b m Chaffee 2006 406
ships from as far as India laden with goods from as far as Somalia and people from all
points in between. If this pagoda and the stone bridges leading to the city, all decorated
with Buddhist figures, marked it as a land of Buddhism, they also served to mark it as an
of faiths.76
"Maritime merchants crowd the place. Mixing together are Chinese and foreigners. Many
find rich and powerful neighbors."77 Zhang Chan IrfcfKI notes in the same vein that "The
ways of Quanzhou are simple and honest (Quart zhi wei jun fengsu chunhou), the people
are happily kind (qiren leshan), it has long been known as a Buddha land (suhao
foguo)."18 Foreigners of different ethnicities and faiths arrived, stayed, amassed wealth
and set up houses of worship. The earliest recorded instance of a religious institution
established by a foreigner in Quanzhou is the Baolin Buddhist temple (Baolin yuan 3LW
K) which was founded by an Indian monk between 984 and 987 with funds donated by
foreign merchants. Muslims maintained a high profile in the maritime trade and
established several mosques in Quanzhou over the years. Quanzhou's earliest mosque
76
   This pagoda still stands and may be visited today. The architecture of this pagoda as well as the style and
arrangement of its sculptures evoke the stone pagodas of Kaiyuan monastery which were built more than
100 years later.
77
   Chaffee 2006:406.
n
  Mi-^iW> M.WMW- ^ A ^ § # f?!M&H This quotation is contained in the Yudipsheng 130 6a, which
provides the source as the preface of the ^IfPlI* MmMiThe Collected Works of City Official Zhao) Clark
[incorrectly] references Yudi jisheng 130.1 lb and attributes the passage to a "Zhen Dang" (Clark
1991 140)
79
   Related by Zhao Rugua in his Zhufan zhi A, 21b Unfortunately little else is known about this temple
other than what is related here. See also SO 2000.35
what is now Iran).81 Around 1150 a merchant from Srivijaya (in what is now Indonesia)
established a cemetery for foreigners. The Confucian scholar Lin Zhiqi ffii.m?(\112-
1176) praised the act as one of benevolence that would attract foreigners and ease their
minds about living and dying in Quanzhou. One of the most important accounts we
have of the Asian, African and Mediterranean cultures known to China in the thirteenth
century is the "Description of Foreign Peoples" {Zhufan zhi iifH/fe) written from 1224 to
1225 by Zhao Rugua j H ^ s i the superintendent of trade and then prefect of Quanzhou.
This text is a collection of information about the countries that had trade relations with
Quanzhou including their cultural features and products; it supports the picture of
Quanzhou as an enclave of ethnic and cultural diversity during the Song dynasty.83
The prosperity that was achieved in the late eleventh century lasted until the end
renovations at Kaiyuan. When Youpeng W JK, for example, assumed leadership of the
80
   Chen 1984. 8-10; XV.
   So 2000: 57 Some have thought this to be the same mosque that stands in Quanzhou today, but So
argues against this See So 2000: 328, nt. 38
82
   The story is also related by Zhao Rugua about a century later, but many details of the story are altered
So takes the earlier, firsthand account by Lin Zhiqi to be more reliable (So 2000:53-54)
83
   Zhao Rugua's 1225 "Description of Foreign Peoples" {Zhufan zhi itiii/ife) has been translated into English
by Fnednch Hirth and W W Rokhill as Chau Ju-Kua His Work on the Chinese and Arab Trade in the
Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries, entitled Chu-fan-chi First published m 1911 by the Imperial Academy
of Sciences m St Petersburg in, it is available in a 1966 reprint by Paragon Book Reprint Corp (New
York) which includes the Chinese text in a separate volume
Kaiyuan's flourishing in the latter half of the eleventh century coincided with an
official change in Kaiyuan's identity; Kaiyuan became a Chan monastery. Like other
changes to come, this was a top-down change initiated by secular authorities; the official
named in the Monastery Record is a former cabinet secretary turned prefect of Qizhou 1^
jM named Qiao Langzhong ^fSP11)3.85 Qiao thought that Kaiyuan should be a Chan
monastery and invited the distinguished Chan master Ziqi ^plf (d. 1115)86 to serve as its
first official Chan abbot. The Monastery Record gives no explanation for the change in
The accession of a Chan abbot and Kaiyuan's official affiliation with the Chan
school reflect the growing dominance of Chan during the Song dynasty which was
achieved, in part, through state support. The Song state at this time made a strong effort
to register monasteries through a process of granting them name plaques (e W{) and
84
   Sizhi I.37a-b. Biography #32.
85
   Sizhi I.35b-36b The Langzhong $$$> of Qiao Langzhong ff HP 41 is a title that indicates the director of a
bureau or section of a Ministry Thus it seems that Qiao held a higher position before becoming prefect of
Qizhou MJ')'W and thus had the power to influence affairs at Quanzhou's Kaiyuan
86
   Ziqi was from Hui'an and is the author of the Collected Sayings ofWuhui (Wuhm Yulu :5^jinJpc). He
received a purple robe and the title Great Master Zhaojue Mlt, from the emperor When it was ordered in
1102 that every state (zhou )'\\) should have a Chongnmg M? temple to pray for the benefit of the
emperor, master Ziqi became the first abbot of Quanzhou Chongnmg temple See Biography #30 in the
Sizhi I 35b-36b
87
   Sizhi I 35b-36b Biography #30
practice carried out especially during the Northern Song and with particular vigor under
name plaques to monasteries the government attempted to gain greater influence and
control over the monasteries. Part of that control was the power to approve appointments
to abbacies in which secular officials played an important role. In many cases secular
authorities appear to have directly appointed abbots as in the case of master Ziqi as abbot
of Quanzhou Kaiyuan. Given that any monastery with thirty bays was eligible for a name
plaque, it would follow that Kaiyuan was eligible to receive one, but as it was already in
possession of an imperially granted name board this was not necessary. In addition,
Kaiyuan had long been a public monastery in which the abbacy was not transmitted from
master to disciple, but rather open to selection by monastic and secular authorities. With
these consideration in mind, it appears that, for the moment, this designation of
Quanzhou Kaiyuan as a public Chan monastery with an abbot of the Chan school did
little to upset the nature of the monastery as a vast monastery housing dozens of cloisters
lead by masters with teaching and ordination lineages within Chan as well as outside
Chan lineages. In designating Kaiyuan a public Chan monastery authorities were acting
in conformity with practices that prevailed during the Song dynasty. Practices designed
to give the state a better handle on the growing power of the Buddhist monastic order and
control, at the level of the abbot, over most of the largest monasteries in China.90
88
   See Schlutter 2005 for the discussion of Song efforts to register monasteries in this fashion and the
special relationship between public monasteries and the Chan school
89
   Schlutter 2005 139 See also Chikusa 1982 109 and Huang 1989 304-305
90
   See See Schlutter 2005 and Foulk 1993 191-194
to teach and practice at Kaiyuan, a process of cloisters becoming aligned with the Chan
school that had begun in the ninth century accelerated following Kaiyuan's official
change in affiliation. The Old Lotus Sutra Cloister (jiufahua yuan I H & ^ K ) , for
example, had been converted into a Chan cloister by Quanzhou prefect Lin Hu # ^ in
the ninth century and Chan master Changji %z&. was called to be its first Chan abbot.91
While such realignments did occur in the past, they began to occur with greater frequency
after the designation of Kaiyuan as a Chan monastery. The Western Pagoda Cloister {xita
yuan iSi-nl^) was changed to a public Chan cloister during the Yuanyou period (1086-
1093) by prefect Chen Kang $kM who invited Chan master Wenyou 3t% to be its first
Chan abbot.92 The Resting Hermit Chan Cloister {qiyin chanyuan ft^i^K ), which
had been built by Dong Si'an's family at the end of the interregnum was similarly
changed into a pubic Chan cloister during the Song.93 Another cloister was originally
called the "Congee Cloister" being named for its founding monk who was the head chef
responsible for preparing congee for 1000 monks. During the Xining period (1068-1077),
the prefect Chenshu W-M. changed it to a public Chan cloister and re-named it the
Flourishing Prosperity Chan Cloister {xingfu chanyuan 9\^mW^) and invited Chan
91
      SizhiUla.
92
   SizhiU5a-b
93
    Sizhil 16a.
94
   Sizhi 1.16b-17a It was Benguan^Kwho later exhorted the gentry to lend money for relief for victims of
the famine of 1092 (Sizhi 1.34b. Biography #28.). Having done so at the request of prefect Chen
ShenfuP|:IM(r. 1091-1093, listed as Chen Dunfu Rj^cin Clark 1981- 395) illustrates one of the social
functions that monks could have as well as a dimension of the relationship between Kaiyuan monks and
Quanzhou officials
disciples. It would appear that the conversion of these cloisters into Chan cloisters may
cloister leaders. If a cloister remained hereditary with leadership passed from the head
master to one of his disciples this reduced the influence of secular officials. The top-
down nature of these re-designations strongly suggests that the re-designation of cloisters
and monasteries into Chan-affiliation was to a certain extent driven by the desire of
secular authorities to achieve greater regulatory control over the Sangha. Becoming a
public Chan monastery or cloister essentially meant two things, both of which bore on the
selection of the abbot: 1. the abbot must be a member of a Chan lineage and 2. the
selection of the abbot must be approved, if not made, by secular officials. Kaiyuan's
chronicler Yuanxian expresses no concern, much less disapproval, over such outside
interference in monastic affairs. We will visit the question of the autonomy of the
Sangha in contemporary China in chapter eight, for now we want to note the emergence
of Kaiyuan's official association with the Chan school in the mid to late eleventh century
and see it in the context of the Song state's promotion of public Chan monasteries over
hereditary ones.
Between 1126 and 1127, The Song capital at Kaifeng fell to Jurchen invaders
from the north who established the Jin dynasty in North China. The Imperial clan was
dispersed and came to be relocated in Fujian with the Western office of the clan
93
  See also Schlatter 2005:146-147
96
  There were public monasteries associated with Tiantai, Huayan and later the Vmaya school, but there
was an especially close association between the Chan school and public monasteries See Schlutter 2005.
contingent of the imperial clan arrived in Quanzhou at the end of 1129 and put Quanzhou
on the path to becoming the "preeminent center for the imperial clan in the Southern
Song " 97 Meanwhile a new Song, or rather Southern Song, capital was established at
Hangzhou The population of central Quanzhou during this period was likely more than
200,00098 while that of Greater Quanzhou would have been several times larger
The relocation of the Southern Office of the imperial clan to Quanzhou may have
been a boon to Quanzhou's political and cultural life, but it also produced sharp fiscal
strains The tax base of the Song shrank by some fifty percent with the loss of control of
the North At the same time the need to defend the Northern borders became even more
acute, necessitating the need to support a larger military Fiscal needs such as these and
the inability to meet them with revenues from taxes is said to have induced the Southern
Song to sell increasingly larger numbers of ordination certificates which were valued for
the tax exemptions they would earn the bearer It is also known that the purple robe and
honorary titles extended by the emperor to eminent monks became available at a price "
Two years after the imperial clan offices had been transferred to Fujian, a notice appears
that the Fujian government under Zhang Shou ^^(1084-1145) began to auction off the
The sale of monk certificates, honorable titles and abbacies during the Song has
been used by Kenneth Chen to support the view of Song Buddhism as a period of moral
  Chaffe2001 16
 Estimate suggested by Clark Clark 1991 139, n 71, and appendix 2
  Chen 1956 308 324, Chen 1964 390-394
 }
   Xu Song's Song hmyaojigao, fasc 134 5240d, Chikusa 1982, 163 See Schlutter 2005 149
was possible for elite institutions such as Kaiyuan to remain removed from some of these
decadent practices. Top monasteries such as Kaiyuan were excluded, for example, from
which settled over Quanzhou by the early part of the thirteenth century. One indication
of Kaiyuan's loss of momentum at the end of the twelfth century is the fact that no
records exist for the founding of new cloisters after the Chunxi period (1174-1189).103
The Monastic Record mentions no new cloisters being added during the thirteenth
century or later. The dynamism and growth of earlier days had ended and Kaiyuan began
during the Yuan dynasty. The slowdown in Kaiyuan's development coincided with a
Quanzhou from 1217 to 1219 and from 1232 to 1234. Zhen Dexiu's 1217 memorial came
two years after the capture of Beijing by Genghis Khan (1167-1227) and indicates the
impact of the state's attempt to raise revenue to fight the Mongolian threat. When Dexiu
assumed office in 1217 he claims that only three to four ships were arriving at Quanzhou
101
    Chen 1964, 1956
102
    Xu Song's Songhmyaojigao, fasc 134.5240d, Chikusa 1982 163; Schlutter 2005' 149.
103
    The last cloister discussed in the Monastery Records is the Cloister of Bliss, also known as the
Amitabha Hall, it was founded by Liaoxmg (who rebuilt the east pagoda) and his disciple Shoujmg Tf$
Sizhil 17b
104
    Zhen Dexiu was a famous scholar official who holds an important place in the history of Neo-
Confucianism
for trade was increased to thirty-six by the next year. Leaving Quanzhou in 1219, Dexiu
returned as prefect in 1232; his memorial of that time indicates that Quanzhou's
economic situation had deteriorated even further with merchants moving away and
income from tariffs dropping from 100,000 strings in 1219 to 40,000 strings in 1232.10
With this dramatic loss in revenue, maintenance of the 2,300 clan members was extra
Financial strains pushed clan members to not only enter into maritime trade, but
also to encroach on the land holdings of monasteries and to push others to do the same.
A 1233 memorial by Dexiu relates this development: "During the past twenty to thirty
years, most temple property and public fields were illegally occupied by the powerful
families. When land transactions took place, people often put down the estimated value
before the deal was made [so as to pay less land tax to the government]....Consequently,
the regular revenue decreased significantly."108 Although Dexiu was concerned to show
the fiscal problems faced by his government, he also provides evidence of economic
suffered incursions from the rich and powerful. Dexiu's complaints about Quanzhou were
echoed with respect to other parts of Southern China in 1250 by the monk Silian &M
who protested the occupation of monastic properties by the elite.10 This problem had
been developing for some time as evidenced by an 1109 decree issued prohibiting the
   So 2000 88-89.
   Ibid.
   Chaffee 2001-13-14.
   Zhen wenzhonggong wenji 15: 132b in So 2000. 97-98 See also Clark 1991 174-175
   Songshi 407.1a-llb; Chen 1956: 99-100
court officially forbid such seizures of property under Gaozong i U ^ ( l 127-1162) and
abolished the tax privileges they previously enjoyed under Ningzong T'TKO 195-1224),
but these measures were ineffectual in curbing the detrimental practices.111 Loss of
temple property in Quanzhou would have been exacerbated by the sudden transfer of the
imperial clansmen to the South and the lack of immediate housing for the imperial clan.
In short, a financial recession had begun by the early thirteenth century with
detrimental effects on both the state and religious institutions. This situation simply
worsened as the Song dynasty wore on. To the economic stress that was felt by urban
blows, economic and moral, would have contributed to the comparative lack of
dynamism in Kaiyuan's development from the thirteenth century onward. We will return
to this after surveying developments to the physical plant of Kaiyuan during the Song and
Visitors to Kaiyuan monastery today are met by a vast stone courtyard shaded by
huge trees hundreds of years old and containing a trove of stone relics from the Tang,
Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties. Two of these relics are dharani pillars (jingchuang Mfe
110
     Chen 1964 401
111
     Chen 1964 401-402
" 2 Borrell 1999 62
) which date to the early Song dynasty [Figures 41-44] The dharam inscribed on these
pillars was the most popular choice of text for such pillars m China and they were erected
during the Tang by the hundreds ' Dharanl are a type of text/mcantation developed in
Indian Buddhism technically distinct from mantras which are pan-Indian Dharanl are
or entire bodies of doctrine They came to be used as spells, especially to ward off
demons and their influence and it is in this use that they entered Chinese Buddhism
Chinese Buddhist texts refer to them as effective means to combat evil influences in the
Another pair of stone structures from the Song dynasty that greets visitors today
are two stone stupas decorated with sculptures depicting stories selfless behavior by the
Buddha in previous lives116 Known as "treasure box" (baoqie 3lW.) stupas they are said
to be copies of bronze stupas cast by Qian Shu fjfelJX king of Wu-Yue in 955 117
113
     Ecke and Demieville 1935 88 The pillar stands in the main courtyard It was most likely moved to
 Kaiyuan during the late Ming or early Qmg Both dharam pillars bear the text of the Usriisavijayadhararii,
 the first of these was erected in 1008 by Yuanshao jttB The text on the pillar is from the translation by
 Amoghavajra and the calligraphy is that of Lin Xun # M This pillar contains a notice written by the monk
 Zongmei T K H and was originally located at the Water and Land temple (Shuilu si 7jXPitj^f) The second
 Song dynasty dharanl pillar was erected in 1031 (Ecke and Demieville 1935 88) For additional
 information on Kaiyuan's dharam pillars see Wang 2008 34-40
 114
     Kieschnick 1997 89-90 and Liu Shufen 1996 Clark notes the proliferation of dharam pillars in Minnan
 during the late Tang and early Song and translates several recorded dedicatory inscriptions (Clark
 2007 185-187)
 115
     See Stnckmann 2002 103-109
 116
     They were erected by the laywoman Liu Sanniang $PH$ll and her husband Liang An iS5? in 1145
 Kaiyuansi Liu Sanmang zaota ]i Jfjt^ IjiPHMiiti-nT-SO'Record of Liu San Niang's building of stupas for
 Kaiyuan Monastery") and Kaiyuansi shengzhang tike Jf 7t:^f I^KJiSJ^llO'Inscnption on Kaiyuan
 monastery's saintly drapes"), these two inscriptions are collected in Dean and Zheng 2001 23-24,
 inscriptions 22 and 23 The latter of these inscriptions was made after 1166 and is taken from the Fujian
jinshi zhi ; f g ^ ^ : ' 5 ' L : ( " A Record of Fujian Metal and Stone Inscriptions") 8 18b, it is also found in the
 Mmzhong jimhi lue \S\ cj 3 ^^B§(' Assorted Metal and Stone Inscriptions From Fujian") vol 10 For more
 on these pagodas see Wang 2008 p 32-33
 117
     See Ecke and Demieville 1935 87
ordination platform which is one of only three such ordination platforms remaining in
China, the others being at Zhaoqing monastery BSj^c^F in Hangzhou and Jietai monastery
jS, U^F outside Beijing. Although the current platform dates from the Ming dynasty,
Kaiyuan's first ordination platform was built during the Southern Song in 1019 about the
                                                                                                i   10
same time as the construction of Quanzhou's oldest mosque, the Ashab mosque.
dominance of the Chan and Pure Land schools during the Song dynasty, it is evident that
the schools of Tiantai, Huayan and the Vinaya proceeded to produce masters and serve as
the focus of cloisters and monasteries, especially in the provinces of Zhejiang ffiZL and
Fujian.119 Kaiyuan's Dunzhao i£'J§ set out to rebuild the 1019 platform according to
jietan tujing "M lhMM.M^.) in 1128.120 It was a complicated yet graceful structure of
five levels and witnessed the ordination of thousands of monks over the years.
platform with the traditional name "Amrita Ordination Platform" (ganlu jietan "t^SI JtSois
     The construction of Kaiyuan's first ordination platform was initiated in response to emperor Shenzong's
call for universal tonsure and ordination (pudu I? JS) Sizhi 13a-b Pudu U S would appear to refer to a
pudu sengni H S f e JS which was a periodic call for "universal tonsure and ordination" that the government
might use for celebratory reasons m which restrictions on ordinations were lifted for a period of time The
pudu was a policy governing religious ceremonies (Jianymg 2007 and Dazhuo 2007, personal
communication)
 119
     If Quanzhou Kaiyuan is to serve as an example of developments in Chinese Buddhism, it was in the
Mmg and Qmg dynasties that Chan and Pure Land truly began to assert their dominance, especially in their
joint practice
 120
     Sizhi I 3b Dunzhao's concern with establishing an orthodox Nanshan vinaya platform was likely
inspired by the spirit of renewal initiated by vinaya master Yuanzhao (see appendix)
Tang dynasty well known as the Amrita Well (ganlujing TJiS^F-) which sits below the
platform.122
We have seen that since its founding Kaiyuan has been constantly engaged not
only in the maintenance of its facilities, but in expansion and renovations. While the heart
of Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery has occupied the same piece of land since its founding
in 686, the monastery and its structures have evolved with changes in leadership and
trends within Buddhism, society and governance. We have seen changes as broad as the
hall. In 1095, for example, the monk Fashu ^fe^fc oversaw renovations to the main hall in
which he had 1000 Buddha statues installed.123 The following year Fashu established the
Eastern Tripitika Hall which superseded the earlier Sutra Hall as Kaiyuan's main
While new or renovated structures might reflect social or economic trends, behind
all such construction and maintenance, both its funding and execution is the economy of
merit. Monks and laypersons earned merit not only through the construction of stupas,
dharanl pillars or monastic buildings such as ordination platforms, but they could also
earn great amounts of merit in supporting public works such as the building of bridges or
the digging of wells. Monks in Quanzhou were actively involved in the construction of
121
    Sizhi I.3b
122
    A well was in fact discovered under the platform during the Qmg dynasty. The entrance to this well lies
to the back of the current ordination platform but it has been sealed off.
!23
    Sizhi I.2b-3a.
124
    Sizhi U\a.
125
    See discussion of merit with special reference to the building of bridges in Kieschnick 2003:191 -219.
dynasties. Monks were involved on many levels of the building process; they were
involved as technical advisors, planners and fundraisers. While the canonical motivation
works such as the building of civic infrastructure like bridges was also accepted by
society. There is no reason why monks would not have been motivated by a combination
Luoyang bridge ?#P0$f. It spans the mouth of the Luoyang River at the northeastern
entrance to Greater Quanzhou and is said to have been crossed by Marco Polo when he
entered Quanzhou at the end of the thirteenth century. It was constructed from 1053 to
1059 under the auspices of Quanzhou prefect and noted Song dynasty calligrapher Cai
Xiang H H (1012-1067) with the assistance of the Kaiyuan monk Yibo $L$i. Officially
known as the Wan'an Bridge 7J fSc^F, it is about one mile long, or more than 3,600
Chinese feet (chi K)- The bridge was outfitted with Buddhist stupas, shrines and
inscriptions some of which remain today. Before the construction of the bridge, the
Wan'an ferry operated in this location and inclement weather could cause delays and even
deaths. The building of this bridge was thus an act of civic responsibility for Cai Xiang
and an act of compassion toward sentient beings for Chan master Yibo. Yibo, who was
construction of Luoyang Bridge and his role is noted in the famous inscription by Cai
infrastructure during the Song and Yuan dynasties when ships from all of the known
world unloaded goods at Quanzhou for distribution throughout China and picked up
goods destined for Southeast Asia, India and the Middle East. Of the forty-three bridges
recorded built in Quanzhou during the Northern Song ten were built or repaired under the
guidance of Buddhist monks and the role monks played was even more prominent under
the Southern Song when more than one hundred additional bridges were built.129
devastating fires which have leveled buildings thus necessitating large scale
reconstruction. The first great fire suffered by Quanzhou Kaiyuan occurred in 895; a
second devastating fire swept through the monastery in 1155 destroying all the major
buildings including the main hall, the main gate, both east and west pagodas, the Eastern
Tripitika Hall and the Venerated Site Cloister. It is not known what caused the fire, but
all of the structures just mentioned were rebuilt without much delay.
Kaiyuan's eminent monk Liaoxing T t i and his disciple Shoujing $r^. Liaoxing was a
member of the Huang family of Anxi $ M and is known for his role in the construction
of several bridges in Greater Quanzhou including Anxi's Longjin bridge S^JI/fe^'ffF >
When Liaoxing was rebuilding Kaiyuan's east pagoda, his disciple Shoujing became
his close assistant. They rebuilt the east pagoda as a thirteen-storied wooden structure; it
was completed in 1186. Together, Liaoxing and Shoujing established the Cloister of Bliss
pagoda jlHiHJJDill, Anping Chaotian gate Szr^Pfj^niic, Xinghuajun Anli bridge T^H-fcip
Shima bridge WM^mffi, Qinglong bridge if~Mffi and Quanzhou Longji bridge M'NJfc
i^lfr.1   1
              Both Liaoxing and Shoujing were especially skilled at raising funds for the
completion of these costly construction projects. They are models of the engineer monk
who was engaged in construction projects designed to ease suffering, earn merit and
please the political powers thus earning religious, social and political capital for the
Sangha.
130
    Fujian Tongzhi volume 263 (Song Fangwai) lists Longjin and Anji bnges The other bridges are
mentioned m Huang Minzhi's "Socio-economic study of Song Dynasty Buddhist temples in Fujian" pp.
131-132 The Qianlongjinjiang xianzhi notes Anji (2 31a), Gantang (2.31a) and Guishan (2 34b) bridges
(see Clark 1991 220, nt 58)
131
    Shima, Qinglong and Longji bridges are given by Huang Minzhi (see previous note) while the others are
found in the Fujian Tongzhi vol 263 (Song Fangwai)
pagodas in the early thirteenth century. Soon however, the monk Zizheng [=1 iiE, set out to
rebuild the pagodas in granite. The five-story west pagoda, completed in 1237 has
                                     1 ^9
remained standing to this day. The conversion of the east pagoda from a seven-storied
brick pagoda into a five-storied stone pagoda began in 1238 under the supervision of the
monk Benhong ^ ^ . Benhong was only able to complete the first level, but the carvings
in "greenstone" {qingshi i=f5) 133 which he oversaw along the base are considered the
finest at the monastery. Not only are the panels artistically masterful, but they exhibit a
most impressive knowledge of Indian Buddhist literature.134 A monk named Tianxi ;^cfj§
The reconstruction of the east and west pagodas in stone was the crowning event
of a prosperous period of growth and consolidation during the Song dynasty. While the
early decades of Song dynasty were a period of efflorescence for both Quanzhou and
132
    The five-story Stone Lake pagoda appears to have been used as a model for Zizheng's pagoda.
133
    A type of diodorite.
134
    See Ecke and Demieville 1935: 80-81, 92. They provide an excellent account of the narratives depicted
in these carvings which demonstrate a broad knowledge of Buddhist traditions and Indian Buddhist
literature (Ecke and Demieville 1935:42-65.)
135
    The Monastery Record refers to Tianxi, not by name, but as a "preaching monk from Tianzhu 3K=L."
His being described as a "preaching monk from Tianzhu" has led some to speculate that he was an Indian
monk because Tianzhu Guo 3K~E Hi is India. Li Yukun ^ 3 L H; notes this was the view presented in The
Port of Quanzhou and Ancient Maritime Communications {Quanzhou gangyu gudai haiwai jiaotong M'Hi
S - ^ ^ f t ^ b x i l ) (Li Yukun $ I g 1988:31). S t 1988 ^ 01 M- This unsupported notion is also
part of an oral tradition in Quanzhou. The identity of this monk, however, can rather securely be identified
with Tianxi ^ f i (a.k.a. Chuzhuo flfftfi, 1209-1263) from Kaiyuan's own Tianzhu cloister (Tianzhuyuan 3K
r*l?m) who is named in three local records (zhi ,lfe) as the builder of the top story of the east pagoda. These
records are the Gazetteer ofJinjiang xianzhi 69:1652; the Gazetteer of Quanzhou Prefecture XVI, 20a; and
the biographical section of the Record of Xuefeng Temple (IP^^f-ife Xuefengsi zhi). See also Li Yukun ^
3L ti, 1988:31. Demieville suggested that Tianzhu might refer to Tianzhu temple near Hangzhou.
Demieville also noticed the name of Tianxi 3*cl§ in the Gazetteer of Quanzhou Prefecture, but thought that
Tianxi ^fj§ was most likely a misprint of Tianzhu 3K'=- (Ecke and Demieville 1935: 92). The evidence
from the three sources above and the existence of a Tianzhu cloister at Kaiyuan lead me to favor the
interpretation that the monk is Tianxi from Kaiyuan's Tianzhu cloister.
contrast to the expansion and innovation witnessed during the interregnum and early
Song. Whereas the interregnum was a time of feverish construction of cloisters to house
masters of diverse backgrounds, by the end of the Song there was a dramatic drop in the
establishment of new cloisters. Nevertheless, by the end of the Song dynasty Kaiyuan
monastery included some one hundred and twenty cloisters housing well over a thousand
monks.136
have met several of Kaiyuan' eminent Song dynasty masters. Throughout the Northern
Song dynasty Kaiyuan continued to expand along the lines established during the
Yogacara, Vinaya and Pure Land. While the establishment of new cloisters dropped off
during the Southern Song, Kaiyuan retained a robust population of monastics. A brief
resume of Kaiyuan's more distinguished Song dynasty masters will demonstrate a great
diversity that has remained a feature of Kaiyuan throughout much of its history.
We have already met master Dunzhao who built the Amrita Ordination Platform
in 1128. Dunzhao lived at Kaiyuan's Guanzhu Cloister (guanzhu yuan M^i$%) and was,
along with the monk Kezun Rfifl, one of the most noteworthy masters of vinaya at
                                         1 ^7
Kaiyuan during the Song dynasty. We have also met Chan master Yibo the seventh
generation grand-disciple of Pure Land master Xingzhao. The most notable master of
136
    For more complete coverage of Kaiyuan's cloisters please refer to the first chapter of the Monastery
Record in Appendix I.
137
    See Sizhi I 40b, biography #38 for more on Dunzhao.
Benguan was patronized by a string of Quanzhou prefects; the prefect Chen Shu
WM invited him to give teaching at the Congee Cloister when it became affiliated with
the Chan school. He was honored with a purple robe and the title master Yuanjue M jt£
from emperor Song Shenzong ^ C ^ ^ K (r. 1067-1085).139 Master Weishen studied under
Special mention should be made of Ziqi ^jPBt (d. 1115) who served as the first Chan
abbot of Kaiyuan. He was especially learned in the Suramgama Sutra and the Sutra of
Perfect Enlightenment {Yuanjue jing H jtclx). The emperor bestowed him a purple
robe and the title Zhaojue Dashi (M^t^Jft). He wrote the Wuhuiyulu jElHaSpc which
was available in the Song dynasty. More information on these masters may be found in
the translation of the Monastery Record in the appendix. Nevertheless, this brief
summary at least gives an idea of the diversity in Buddhist doctrine and practice that
138
    See Sizhi I 13b
139
    For more on Chan master Benguan see biography #20, Sizhi I 34b
140
    See biography #27, Sizhi I.34a
141
    The full title is Dafangguangyuanjue xm duoluo haoyijmg ~&jTWiM^?WT$l&             Zongmi (780-841)
wrote several commentaries on this sutra and may be credited with enhancing its popularity It is divided
into twelve chapters discussing meditation It was a text important in early Chan
142
    For more on Ziqi see Sizhi I.35b-36b, biography # 30
143
    In the interest of noting other dimensions of Quanzhou's Buddhist environment beyond Kaiyuan
monastery I would like to make a note of notable Chan masters who were either from Quanzhou or lived in
one of its monasteries during the Song dynasty Chan master Baoci Xmgyan was a native of Quanzhou and
became a disciple of Fayan Wenyi /iHRXiii He became abbot of Jiangnan's Baoci monastery in today's
Nanjing (See Ferguson 2000 343-345) Another disciple of Fayan Wenyi and a native of Quanzhou is
Chan master Chongshou Qizhou (d 992) Chengtian Chuanzong taught at Quanzhou's Chengtian
monastery, he was a disciple of Xuedou Chongxian (See Ferguson 2000 367) Dahui Zonggao j c t l l :
(1089-1163) who advocated koan meditation over silent illumination gave teachings in Fuzhou, arriving
there in 1134 (Levering 1999 194)
which made rebuilding after the fire of 1155 that much more demanding. Prefects were
not busy building cloisters for Chan masters in the twelfth century not only due to a lack
of funds, but also due to the rise of the Neo-Confucian school of Zhuxi which offered a
formidable challenge to Buddhists and drew official patronage away from monks. The
Zen school was no longer new and perhaps some of its iconoclastic brilliance had begun
to fade. If such conditions had been left to fester Kaiyuan may have fallen into a
downward spiral of neglect, but the Yuan dynasty intervened and led to a different kind
A theme that remained strong in the development of Kaiyuan during the Song as
well as throughout its history is the relationship between Kaiyuan monks and the elite.
Throughout the Song, as it was throughout the interregnum, the relationship was one of
enthusiastic support. This support was especially evident throughout the Northern Song
and it was through the patronage of local prefects and other elites that so many cloisters
were constructed to house so many distinguished monks. What Chi-Chiang Huang has
written about the relationship between elites and the Buddhist clergy in Northern Song
officials in the national bureaucracy serving in a local post or local scholars, prefects or
members of a small district staff, these elites formed an alliance with the clergy to bring
order and prosperity to their jurisdiction. .. .They were as much of an impetus to the
flourishing of Buddhism in their area as were the leaders of the local Buddhist
institutions."144 Throughout the Song, Kaiyuan monastery flourished with the support of
144
  Huang 1999: 297. "Elite and Clergy in Northern Sung Hang-chou. A Convergence of Interest " in Peter
Gregory and D. Getz eds. Buddhism in the Sung. Huang points out that the behavior of local elites
expand under the patronage of the state, it could also contract with the loss of state
enthusiasm. We now turn from the Song to the Yuan dynasty where a different set of
conditions and a different set of elite actors effected dramatic changes in the complexion
of Kaiyuan monastery.
Shougeng, the former superintendent of maritime trade who is thought to have been a
Muslim of Arab heritage, surrendered Quanzhou to the invading Mongols. Mongol forces
massacred 3,000 members of the imperial clan. Soon afterward, the Yuan dynasty jt\X
period of disgraceful conquest by the Mongol Horde, from an outside perspective it was
the Pax Mongolica which witnessed more peaceful commercial intercourse between
China and the outside world than has perhaps ever been known. While there was
discrimination against the Han Chinese, especially the Southern Han Chinese who had
resisted Mongol rule the longest, foreigners enjoyed a tremendous level of opportunity
and integration into the Chinese polity. This integration is evident in both the
contrasts with the critiques of Buddhism found in official Song histories Huang finds that local elites in
Hangzhou worked harmoniously with the Buddhist clergy and adds that "the importance of Buddhism in
Hang-chou meant that, whatever personal opinion officials may have had of Buddhism, their official duties
would have inclined them to adopt a pragmatic and open minded attitude in their dealings with the
religion " Huang 1999. 299
punished as a stronghold of Han Buddhism, but it did suffer dramatic privations that
We have seen how from the end of the Tang through the end of the Song,
Kaiyuan may be seen to have developed into a kind of Buddhist university, where
individuals were admitted to study under the supervision of a master. One could pursue
intense study or practice in the arts and sciences that had become associated with
Buddhism in China. We have seen that these fields of specialization included not only
scriptural exegesis, meditation and ritual, but also engineering. Under the Yuan dynasty,
Kaiyuan would lose its cloisters and its status as a Buddhist "university."
In 1285, nine years into Mongol rule, the old Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery was
abolished and in its place arose the Great Kaiyuan Everlasting Chan Monastery {Da
Kaiyuan Wanshou Chansi ^v Jf 7U7J ^fW^f ). It was a big name for what was in reality a
Kaiyuan had grown to immense proportions for a central urban monastery and
encompassed one hundred and twenty separate cloisters in addition to the central
buildings of the monastery such at the main gate, the main hall, the ordination platform
and the Tripitika hall. In 1285, the reach of the monastery retracted considerably as 117
of the 120 affiliated cloisters that clustered around Kaiyuan's central axis were abolished.
The resulting monastery was a mere fraction of its former size. With these changes in
circumstance Kaiyuan took on a less universal role; with the loss of its land and therefore
its economic base it reined in its ambitions as a Buddhist kingdom or university and
hundred and twenty cloisters are known to have remained after the dramatic
consolidation of 1285—these were the Venerated Site Cloister, the East Pagoda Cloister
The choice of these three cloisters for preservation speaks to a certain logic as
well as to a certain sensibility. The Venerated Site Cloister formed part of the original
nucleus of the monastery, it was the first cloister established and marked the site where
mulberry trees had bloomed lotus blossoms. It had served as the home of founding monk
Kuanghu who was associated with the school of Yogacara. Its preservation indicates the
origins. The East Pagoda Cloister, established in the ninth century with the founding of
the East Pagoda by the venerable monk Wencheng, was one of Kaiyuan's earliest
cloisters and associated with the Vinaya school. The Cloister of Bliss, it will be recalled,
was founded by the monks Liaoxing and Shoujing who rebuilt the East and West pagodas
after the great fire of 1155. Established between 1174-1189, at the heart of this cloister
was a shrine to Amitabha Buddha and it would have served as a focus for devotees of
Pure Land practices. The choice of cloisters to survive the consolidation of 1285, then,
non-Chan, schools of Buddhist thought, namely Yogacara, Vinaya and Pure Land while
requests to have the cloisters united as one temple.1 In 1286, the year following the
145
      Sizhil    lb-2a
inaugural abbot:
We can imagine the crowd that had gathered to greet the new abbot, a combination of the
reverent and curious, and Miao'en, anxious to get to work at a job he didn't choose,
effectively yelling out in characteristically irreverent Chan master style: "I've got work
to do. Now get the hell out of my way!" Miao'en had a job to do and once he had
around (through "action"). Miao'en, a disciple of Chan master Xuefeng Kexiang ffil^ PT
'M (1206-1290), was respected as both a Chan master and for his ability to refashion
highly of both Miao'en's and Miao'en's successor Qizu's f^ffl. abilities to lead and attract
aspiring monks to Kaiyuan: "As the Chan way spread far and wide, novice monks raced
here in droves."147
Over the seven years he served as abbot, Miao'en led Kaiyuan in a spate of
his building program included Kaiyuan's first Chan hall and its first hall of patriarchs
(zushi tang^&^'Ml). With the abolition of Kaiyuan's cloisters came the need to establish
146
   See Biography #41, Sizhi I.41b-2a
147
   ibid For more on this period and Chan master Miao'en's tenure as abbot from 1286-1293 please see the
appendix
These new halls included a Shrine to Monastery Protectors (qielan ci fid JnL^H]), the
room kitchen and a resting hall for the monastery's general manager (Jianyuan JJaK)
The halls which fit most squarely into the Chan tradition were the Chan Hall
where monks could engage in group meditation and the Hall of Patriarchs where
offerings could be made to Chan patriarchs and former abbots. These two halls
represent two central features of the Chan tradition, a concern with the cultivation of
meditative realization and an equally powerful concern with lineage and transmission.
From this building activity it seems that Miao'en was indeed busy constructing a
new type of monastery henceforth known as Great Kaiyuan Chan Monastery (^v Jf 7LW
# ) , a name found on its letterhead today. The Yuan dynasty presented a challenge that
Kaiyuan weathered under the energetic leadership of Miao'en and his immediate
Miao'en chose master Qizu |§|§. (1230-1319) to succeed him as abbot just before
his passing in 1293. Qizu continued to make changes to the physical plant of Kaiyuan.
Qizu also made a revolving sutra cabinet (zhuanlun zang $f ffclic) for the Eastern
Tripitika Hall and ordered the monk Bofu JB?g to pave the main courtyard {dating f^]M)
148
   See Foulk 1993 172-176 for a discussion of the arrangement of portraits m the Patriarch Hall, their
derivation from Confucian practices and their use in Chan monasteries of the Song dynasty For a more
contemporary account of practice in a Chan hall in Korea see Buswell's informed and engaging account in
The Zen Monastic Experience (Princeton, 1992)
149
      Sizh\A\b
became trendy during the Song. They are said to be a means of earning the merit
equivalent to reading their contents (typically the entire Tripitika) by simply rotating
them a full turn or circumambulating them.150 This structure along with the paved
courtyard suggests an effort to make the monastery more appealing to visitors and
devotees.
Qizu died in 1319 and was succeeded as abbot by Ruzhao #n'J§ (d. 1331) who had
served as Miao'en's close attendant for several years. Ruzhou, who is said to have carried
on Qizu's dharma, made a practice of writing sutras in his own blood. He copied the
Lotus Sutra in blood while at Fuzhou's Xuefeng monastery and then wrote the Flower
Ornament Sutra (Huayanjing) in blood after returning to Kaiyuan; this blood sutra
remains in Kaiyuan's library. Hearing of his reputation, the emperor bestowed upon him
the title Foguo Hongjue i ^ ^ A ^ O ' B u d d h a Fruit Great Awakening").151 Unlike Miao'en
and Qizu, Ruzhou's talent did not include institution building; he was known, rather, for
the ascetic devotional practice of writing sutras with his own blood (a form of offering
preserved an impressive library of Buddhist scriptures and although its size had become a
fraction of what it had been, it remained the largest monastery in Quanzhou with some
1000 monks. Miao'en and Qizu made the best of a compromised situation, but the
trajectory they established (focus on the support and training of Chan monks) was short -
150
    For more on revolving sutra cabmets see Carrmgton 1942 For their popularity during the Song see
Huang Mmzhi jSc§j{t£ 1996 "Zailnn songdai siyuan de zhuanluncang" If Mi'MiX^FBcWIf frail
(Revolving Scripture Cabinets in Song Temples) Qinghua xuebao Jpf^^Pffx 26 2 139-88 (Thanks to
Susan Huang for references)
151
    Sizhi 143a-b, biography #43
cultivate a role that would form part of its identity from that time to the present—it
The first clear indication of this historical self-consciousness comes in 1327 when
two ornamental walls were erected outside the main gate known as the East and West
Bounding Walls (dongxi erfang % H—i£f). On these walls were notices announcing the
(liu shusheng /\^H4). 1 5 2 Such publicly displayed notices indicate a need the monastery
felt to advertise its propitious features, features which pointed to the past greatness of
Kaiyuan and the virtue of its monks. Kaiyuan monastery had reached a peak during the
Song dynasty in terms of its size and its number of eminent residents; decline had set in
from the Yuan onward. The self-reflexivity, the looking to the past for evidence of
greatness and the need to self-promote that greatness through billboard-like inscriptions
all point to a kind decadence that had set in and still haunts Kaiyuan as it does all great
152
    The Eight Auspicious Phenomena were the 1 Purple cloud covering the land (ziyiin gaidi jPszanbti), 2.
Mulberry trees with white lotus blossoms (sangshu baihan Hpfffijl^, 3. Courtyard without grass (fancao
busheng /UIRS33, 4 White dove listening to sutra (baige tingjmgt=$$ffi£) , 5 Dream of the arhats
(yingmeng luohan, $%$&BL), 6 Eminent monks of branch cloisters {zhiyuan gaoseng^mS^e), 7.
Manjushn's handwriting (wenshu moji yMSM?) and 8 Mummy of the bare-shouldered monk (tanbo
zhenshen $MMM) The Six Unique Sites were the 1 Stone-arisen peony (shisheng mudan ^Kferifl), 2.
Purple Cloud twin pagodas (ziyun shuangta ^K>5#§), 3 Silk-burnmg furnace (fenbolu M ^ ^ 1 ) , 4. Buddha
statue from the emperor (yuci foxiangW$WHf, 5 Amrita Ordination Platform (ganlujietan ~H1SI#I?) and 6
Ancient dragon-eye well (gu longyanjing TfeSSIcft) See Chapter seven for a discussion of these auspicious
signs and sites
from Kuanghu onward. The timing of Mengguan's writing during the disintegration of
the Yuan dynasty suggest that he quite rightly sensed the impending disaster and sought
to record for posterity what was known about the luminaries of Kaiyuan's illustrious
past—it was a curatorial impulse. It was Mengguan's record that inspired Yuanxian to
write the Record of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery at the end of the Ming dynasty and
(jianjun jj£f$) Xie Shiyu \% tftZE wrote a name board for Kaiyuan's main gate reading,
"The Buddha Land of Southern Quanzhou" (Quannan foguo 7kM\%Wi). This final
gesture of exaltation came in 1350 and may be seen to mark the end of an era, not only
for the monastery of Kaiyuan but also the city of Quanzhou. Along with the self-
Kaiyuan's past, to a golden age that once was. Those examining Kaiyuan at the end of the
Yuan dynasty saw its greatness in its past, rather than in the present or the future and
perhaps they were prescient. For soon the city and the monastery would be devastated in
the violence that accompanied the end of the Yuan, neither can be said to have ever
In the middle of the fourteenth century China and the city of Quanzhou were
undergoing the birthing pains of what would become a new dynasty. Unrest, rebellion
and lawlessness were spreading out from points of intense suffering born of flood and
famine. In 1357 Kaiyuan suffered wholesale destruction by fire; the only remains were
inscriptions in stone and, most notably, the pagodas. The city came to be replaced as the
commercial center of the region by Yueh-kang [Yuegang ^ $|] under the Ming and then
by Xiamen (Amoy) in the seventeenth century. The collapse of the Yuan dynasty
sounded the death knell for Quanzhou's international trade and although Kaiyuan would
rebuild it would never flourish as it had before. As the Monastery Record relates, "The
recurring famines and widespread pillaging and plundering at the end of the Yuan
dynasty were disheartening to the temple. By 1397 (30th year of Hongwu) the temple
The Yuan dynasty survived for less than one hundred years but it radically
refashioned Kaiyuan monastery in a way that has since left its mark. Superficially
Kaiyuan received a new name that has since graced its main entryway: Great Kaiyuan
Everlasting Chan Monastery. More profoundly, Kaiyuan lost one hundred and seventeen
cloisters and remade itself in the image of other Chan monasteries with a dedicated Chan
hall and a hall of Patriarchs. The Yuan dynasty also brought radical changes to the socio-
political structure of Quanzhou; Han Chinese and literati lost their positions of
dominance and foreigners enjoyed greater freedom and opportunity. This change affected
patterns of patronage at Kaiyuan during the Yuan, namely, this period showed a
noticeable drop in the activity of Quanzhou prefects or other local elites in supporting
Kaiyuan monks and the building and maintenance of its structures. The reinvention of
Kaiyuan as a Chan monastery without its many cloisters was orchestrated by Fujian
officials and the Yuan court. Kaiyuan had heretofore remained above state-initiated
153
      Kumar 1987: 604.
      Sizhi 1.2a
atmosphere had sufficiently changed that it was now Quanzhou Kaiyuan's turn to reign in
its ambitions and loose some of its privileges. In the process it indeed became smaller and
The Yuan dynasty had reversed the economic recession that had settled over
Southern Song Quanzhou, the port of Quanzhou once again prospered and foreign
doomed. At the heart of the doomed dynamic was the Yuan caste system which favored
foreigners and discriminated against the Han; it was this system that led to the fateful
establishment of a powerful military garrison led by Persians. The Yuan caste system led
to resentment among the Han which exploded in the dissolution of the Yuan and
establishment of the Ming. The transition was marked in Quanzhou by ethnic violence
that took a toll on Quanzhou's foreign communities. Quanzhou's Hindus, Nestorians and
tombstones and other stone fragments in the 1940s. It was in this crucible of transition
that both the city of Quanzhou and the monastery of Kaiyuan imploded—neither one
The founding of the Ming dynasty ^iX (1368-1644) returned order to the city but
it would be thirty years before the full restoration of Kaiyuan's monastic buildings while
its sangha would never reach pre-Ming levels. Quanzhou itself would never recover the
prosperity or the cosmopolitanism of earlier days. Not only had it lost its international
dynasties and drew trade away from Quanzhou's port which led to the loss of Quanzhou's
world-class, cosmopolitan status. Soon after the establishment of the Ming dynasty,
offices of Maritime Affairs were set up in the three port cities of Ningbo T ^ , Quanzhou
and Guangzhou F'jM- The only official trade, however, for most of the Ming was
tributary trade and the only vessels officially received at Quanzhou were those from the
Ryukyus (modern Okinawa).155 The effect of these measures was to profoundly curtail
trade in Quanzhou, and increase illegal trade and piracy along the Southeast coast.15 It
was not until 1567, a hundred years after the founding of the Ming, that private maritime
trade was again legally permitted, but this trade was to pass through Zhangzhou's port of
Yuegang rather than Quanzhou. Some one hundred years later, during Qing times, Amoy
(Xiamen M i l ) would become the regional maritime port for South Fujian, but neither
Yuegang nor Xiamen have ever reached the heights of prosperity enjoyed by Quanzhou
during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Just as Quanzhou would never return to pre-Ming
levels of prosperity, Kaiyuan would never approach its pre-Yuan levels of vitality.
At the same time as the Ming court sought to exercise tighter control over trade, it
sought greater regulation of religion. The founder of the Ming, Zhu Yuanzhang $kjtl$
(1328-1398), was an orphan who spent time as a Buddhist monk before joining the
messianic sect of rebels known as the Red Turbans. Known as Taizu yfclB. after his
enthronement, the founder of the Ming had first-hand knowledge of the danger that
religious groups could pose to the state and, like previous emperors, he attempted to gain
155
    Boats from Japan and Korea were to call at Ningbo while Guangzhou was the designated port to receive
the South Seas tributary trade.
156
    So 2000. 125-127.
157
    So 2000- 126-127
issued his first decree aimed at regulating the Sangha. The imperial edict of 1373 sought
                  Right now the Emperor feels that in recent years people have
                  believed excessively in Buddhism and Taoism. As a result, monks
                  and priests have increased day by day. They eat without labor and
                  there is nothing more wasteful to the national economy than this.
                  Therefore, it has been decreed that in each prefecture (fu), district
                  (zhou), and county (hsieri), only one large Buddhist monastery and
                  Taoist temple will be allowed to exist. All monks and priests are to
                  be housed in one place and persons with good discipline will be
                                          1 S8
The extent to which this edict was implemented was limited and the order was
reiterated by a second imperial edict in 1391 decreed that there should be only one large
public monastery (shifang conglin ~~\~7j))kW) and Taoist temple per prefecture, district
and county and that all the monks of a given prefecture should live in these large
monasteries.159 While implementation of this order was inconsistent, the policy did
prevent the rebuilding of many monasteries that had been damaged at the end of the Yuan
and a subsequent diminishing of the Sangha. Kaiyuan, as the prefecture's most prominent
with the wherewithal to organize and execute the work of restoration. Kaiyuan's main
hall was the first structure to be rebuilt after the great fire of 1357; the rebuilding project
was undertaken under the direction of the monk Huiyuan U S in 1389. Heartened by the
return of the main hall, the monk Huiming M'w repaired the Hall of Five Hundred Arhats
liX
   Ming shilu (1537) vol 86: 4. Translation in Yu 1981 145-146
159
   Yu 1981 144-45 This edict further stipulated that monasteries be categorized according as Chan,
doctrine and ritual performance, a change from earlier classification into Chan, doctrine and vmaya See Yu
1981. 147-152 and Ch'en 1964 435-436
replace the Eastern Tripitika Hall which had been lost in the fire. Also in 1393, the monk
Fajian £feM rebuilt the Cloister of Bliss, providing a few monks with a place to live in
addition to a place to make offerings to Amitabha. This cloister reflects the growing
popularity of Pure Land practice during the Ming and the joint practice of Chan and Pure
This early Ming activity was encouraging, but Kaiyuan's monastic population was
still alarmingly on the wane and other buildings remained in a state of ruin. As mentioned
earlier, "By 1397 the temple monks were nearly wiped out in the disaster."160 Local
officials reported the dire situation to the emperor who, nearing the end of his reign, took
action to find a suitable abbot to lead Kaiyuan's rebuilding. The emperor sent the eminent
monk-official Zhengying jEi&, who was then serving as the Tripitika prefect (dianzang
MM) at the leading monastery of the Ming capital, Nanjing's Tianjie monastery ^Jf-^f
,l : to serve as Kaiyuan's abbot. The Monastery Record provides the following account:
160
   Sizhi I 2a. Biography #45
161
   Nanjing Tianjie monastery was then the principal monastery in the Ming capital of Nanjing, it was also
the location of the Buddhist Worthies Department (Shanshi yuan) established by Taizu m 1368 as the
central coordinating office of Buddhist affairs, this department later became the Central Buddhist
Registration (Senglusi) and was known as such by the time Zhengying was sent from there to Quanzhou
Kaiyuan See Yu 1981 166-170 for more on the Buddhist Worthies Department during the Ming dynasty
Kaiyuan's main hall had already been rebuilt when Zhengying became abbot in
1398, so he immediately set out to rebuild the dharma hall, the ordination platform and
suggest a sincere wish to restore monastic discipline: "If you are too lenient others will
take advantage of you. If you are too strict you will be maligned. Only if you keep a pure
heart and mind and clean self can you endure for long." Zhengying, taking these words to
heart had four pertinent characters from the emperor's statement inscribed on a board that
was hung above the entrance to the rebuilt dharma hall: "Keep heart and mind pure and
self clean" (qingxinjieji yft'C^cj S). 1 6 3 Zhengying's ability to rebuild monasteries was in
demand in the early Ming and he was soon compelled to leave Kaiyuan, being pressed
into service as abbot of Xuefeng monastery in 1403, which, like Kaiyuan, required
significant rebuilding. Then again, in 1425, having sufficiently restored Xuefeng, he was
appointed abbot of Linggu monastery .Pc^^F by imperial decree. Zhengying had led
Kaiyuan's rebuilding forty-one years after its destruction by fire in 1357. His 1398
and destruction. Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery would have been one of only a handful of
large Buddhist monasteries in Fujian during the early Ming, but while physical
162
      Sizhi I.44b
163
      Sizhi I.4b
dynasty.
Five years after the death of the Hongwu emperor (Taizu), a great patron of
Buddhism assumed the imperial mantle, the Yongle TjCilfr emperor (Chengzu J^cli., r.
1403-1424).164 During the Yongle period, Kaiyuan continued the renewal of its physical
plant which had begun at the end of the Hongwu period under Zhengying. Developments
that continued during the Yongle period were carried out under the direction of the monk
Zhichang H m. From 1408 to 1411 Zhichang carried out a series of improvements that
contributed to the aesthetic appeal of the monastery and made it more accommodating to
visitors. Zhichang oversaw repairs to the corridors along the main courtyard and added
four corridors to the ordination hall. Zhichang also focused his attention on a series of
improvements to the area just in front of the main hall. He expanded the platform that
fronts the main hall and dug two small ponds to the left and right sides of the main
courtyard. He also built several small stupas arranged along the sides of the main
Although no record confirms this, it seems most plausible that it was during
Zhichang's expansion of the main hall's platform that the seventy-two decorative sphinx
carvings (figures have a human face and lion's body, known in Sanskrit as vyala-vari)
were incorporated into the base of the platform [Figure 12]. The temple from which these
164
    Yongle was a disciple of the Lamaist monk Halima BpALfl^(De-bshm-gsegs-pa), but is most famous for
his building of Beijing as the Ming capital and his association with the maritime voyages of Zheng He fflffl
. The Yongle emperor moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing and set to work on a new imperial
palace, the Forbidden City Zheng He is recorded to have stopped at Quanzhou to pray in one the mosques,
but otherwise had no strong connections with the city whose once busy international port was no longer m
operation Two books about Zheng He suggest that Emperor Jianwen HX'Sr temporarily and secretly took
refuge at Kaiyuan in 1403 before taking a boat to Southeast Asia See Jiechu hanghaijia Zheng He -^ tfjflfL
MMfflffl by the Taiwanese writer Chen Shuiyua W-7KM and Zheng He xia xiyang $$%U T I S # by the
Japanese scholar Chitoshi Uesugi Jlt^^f"^
Yuan. These sculpted stones were thus available and their incorporation into the base of
the platform may have simply been a matter of recycling useful, aesthetically valuable
materials. In support of this view is the incorporation of Yuan dynasty stone tombstones
into the Ming dynasty city wall which in addition to showing a lack of respect to those
buried and their ancestors, expresses a recycling spirit.1 5 A spirit of recycling combined
with aesthetic appreciation seems to account for the incorporation of two elegant Hindu
columns at the back of the main hall during the Late Ming Restoration to be discussed
below.166
The Yongle period (1403-1424) was a final period of rebuilding before the onset
of a decline that would last until Kaiyuan's Wanli period (1573-1619) restoration. From
1398 to 1411 under the leadership of Zhengying and Zhichang Kaiyuan's halls were
rebuilt and the grounds were restored and even enhanced with additional stupas, ponds
and corridors. The fifteenth century gazetteer of Fujian records that Kaiyuan "was
restored during the Hongwu and Zhengtong (1435-49) periods ^ ^ j E ^ C and given a
name board reading (bianyue E H ) "Number One Chan Monastery" (diyi chanlin M—'
W-fr)."1   7
               I refer to this period of rebuilding under Zhengying and Zhichang from the
    Risha Lee at Columbia University is currently writing a dissertation on Indian contact with Quanzhou as
evidenced in the sculptural remains at Quanzhou She may have a more definitive theory
166
    A Tamil language inscription indicates the presence of a temple dedicated to Shiva; it is not known if
these sculptures would have been from the same temple or not, but it is a distinct possibility (Guy 2001)
    Bamin Tongzhi 77:1160.
168
    It may be more precise to call it the Hongwu-Yongle restoration, but I have opted for "Early Ming" m
hopes of making the period more immediately intelligible to non-Smologists. It also provides a convenient
pair with the Wanli period restoration which I refer to as the Late Ming Restoration
there appears to have been a lack of momentum which may be attributed in part to
series of largely aesthetic improvements to Kaiyuan's physical plant continues the theme
we saw emerge at the end of the Yuan dynasty, a shift in emphasis to accommodating
during the contemporary era. Just as "improvements" made at the end of the Yuan in the
form of the bounding walls suggested hints of decadence, so do the additions made by
Zhichang suggest a shift in focus away from monastic training and practice to the
accommodation of visitors and lay Buddhists. All of Zhichang's additions can be seen to
shaded and dry; the extended platform outside the main hall accommodated greater
numbers of incense-burning worshippers; the ponds would have provided a place for
visitors to earn merit by releasing fish into them169 and the rows of stupas in the main
courtyard served to enhance the aesthetic and religious experience of visitors. It is not
being denied that these developments would have also enhanced the monastery for its
monks, but it remains nonetheless true, that they would contribute more to the experience
The morale of the monks declined and most of Kaiyuan's land and buildings were
ultimately lost to non-monastics. Kaiyuan's problems, however, were much bigger than
    Lay societies that practiced vegetarianism and the "release of life" (freeing of animals being sold for
food) were popular throughout the Mmg and they often raised money to build such ponds as a place to
release fish, ducks and turtles For background on these societies See Yu 1981 75-81
Chun-fang Yii's study of Ming dynasty Buddhism notes two broad categories of
causes for the degeneration of the Sangha during the Ming.] First were external causes
and the ordination of monks. Secondly were internal causes of decline that came in three
and 3. secularization.171 Under founding emperor Taizu, regulations sought to limit the
number of monks and improve the quality of the Sangha. During the Jmgtai period
certificates as a means of generating revenue. This was a turning point that accelerated
the decline of the Chinese Sangha. While the need to generate revenue for famine relief
in Sichuan in the early 1450's was the initial reason for the emergency selling of
routine.172 By the 1550's one simply needed to pay five ounces of silver in person or by
proxy to Ministry of Revenue and then go to the Ministry of Rites to apply for the
ordination, such as the exams required in the early Ming, were non-existent.17 Having
tens of thousands of individuals "ordained" as monks in name but not in deed surely
170
    Yu Chun-fang 1981 The Renewal of Buddhism in China Chu-hung and the Late Ming Synthesis New
York Columbia University Press
171
    Yu 1981 144
172
    In 1484, for example, 10,000 blank certificates were issued for purchase by anyone who could bring ten
shi ^fq (piculs, about 1330 lbs ) of grain to areas suffering famine, another 60,000 ordination certificates
were sold at twelve ounces of silver apiece "As the years passed, the price went up and the procedure was
made simpler " Yu 1981 160-161 See also Ch'en 1964 435
173
    Yu 1981 161-162
of the Jiajing M$n Emperor Shizong tft^K (r. 1522-1567). His cruelty and ruthlessness
wedded to his devotion to Daoism brought about the destruction of scores of Buddhist
monasteries and statues.174 In 1527 Shizong destroyed more than six hundred Buddhist
monasteries and nunneries in Beijing. Three years later he began to order the
episode, Shizong had 169 gold and silver statues as well asl3,000y'/« of relics
destroyed.177 Not only was it forbidden to repair monasteries or to ordain any new monks
during his reign, but in 1541 the emperor decreed that all monks and nuns must return to
lay life and marry or be punished.178 It is not clear how thoroughly such an order was or
could be enforced but Kaiyuan's income producing lands were lost, its monks were
dispersed and its buildings, fell into neglect and were occupied by non-monastics.
Kaiyuan's misfortunes during this period were shared by the Chinese Sangha at
noted the general decay of the Chinese Sangha: "From the Hongwu period [1368-1398]
174
    For more on Mm Shizong's patronage of Taoism see | M * ? 5 Cheng Zhiqiang's B JtH;^^iS9f % ("A
Study of Emperor Shizong's Worshiping Taoism m Ming Dynasty") in ^ ^ ^ g j S ^ K ^ R Journal of
Nanjing Xiaozhuang College 2002 01
175
     Huo Tao S f a Ming dynasty Shitolu^i^kfk       vol 3 He Xiaorong 2000. 21. For more on the
destructive reign of the Jiajing Emperor see He Xiaorong 2000' 20-24. The emperor received enthusiastic
assistance from Huo Tao S i s , Minister of the Board of Rites (libu shangshu 4L BP jnj45) After Huo Tao
won a debate against the powerful supporters of Buddhism who argued for the importance of Buddhism as
a source of protection for the country, the program of laicization, confiscation and destruction of monastic
property became more widespread See He Xiaorong 2000 120-129
176
    Mingshi zong shilu TO^^C vol 118 He Xiaorong 2000-21
177
    Mingshi zong shilu B J t S ^ S ^ vol 187 He Xiaorong 2000 20 Yu 1981 154 states that 1,300 ounces
of gold were scraped off of Buddhist statues and 2,000 catties of Buddhist relics were burned
178
    Mingshi zong shilu B ^ t f t ^ i ^ ^ vol 276 He Xiaorong 2000 22 Shizong also ordered foreign monks
to leave (ibid)
179
     See Ch'en 1964 443-446 for Kenneth Ch'en's brief synopsis of Zhuhong Otherwise see Chun-fang
Yu's study of Zhuhong entitled The Renewal of Buddhism in China Chu-Hung and the Late Ming
Synthesis (Columbia University Press, 1981)
"Since the great Master Ch'u-shih Chi [Chushi Fanqi MfiffiM, 1296-1370], no one else
has achieved renown in the Ch'an sects."181 Our Ming dynasty chronicler, Yuanxian,
confirms that Kaiyuan's situation was no exception: "Since the Yongle period [1403-
1424] there has long been a void in leadership. The Chan ethos has gradually washed
away (min *M) and the venerable old monks have dispersed like clouds to the four
Not only had the long-lived emperor Shizong issued orders leading to the
destruction of monasteries and the laicization of monks, but the socio-economic fabric of
Southern Fujian was in disarray. Raiders known as wukou ff?7§ pirates1 4 destroyed
property throughout the area while mountain brigands terrorized inhabitants from
mountain hideaways. After the most devastating wukou pirate raids between 1555 and
1564 the local government was pitifully weak and ineffectual for the remainder of the
Ming dynasty. On top of this were heavy taxes, labor conscription and food shortages
leading to famines. With a weak government, much power lay with Southern Fujian's
lineage collectives which fought to increase their land and power. Kaiyuan suffered as
im
  Yunqifahui 1897 24 30a Translated in Yu 1981 140.
181
    Yu 1981 35
182
    Sizhi 19b
183
    Sizhi 2a-b
]U
    Japanese pirates were referred to as wukou fi?;8, literally "dwarf bandits" but during this period the term
was also applied to groups of Chinese colluding with Japanese in illegal trade, piracy and brigandage.
183
    Lamley 1990 263-265. For more on mid and late Mmg disorder in Fujian see two articles by Ng Chin-
keong "The Fukienese Martime Trade in the Second Half of the Mmg Period—Government Policy and
succession. In the process Kaiyuan lost most of its income producing lands. By the end
of the Ming dynasty more than eighty-five percent of Kaiyuan's land holdings had been
sold off or seized by others. Kaiyuan's land holdings fell from the Song dynasty high of
more than 4,500 acres (273.5 qing) to just over 2 acres (36.5 qing) by the end of the
Ming!186
In 1558 the Temple of Water and Land (Shuilusi /KBi^f) was occupied by the
rich and powerful {hao you #:^T) and its monks were left with no place to live.187 They
were allowed to live in Kaiyuan's Chan Hall and the Cloister of Bliss was given to them
as a place to offer incense and conduct rituals. While the Monastery Record does not
make it clear, I consider Chan practice to have fallen into a largely dormant state as early
as the Yuan dynasty. The giving of the Chan Hall as a dormitory for displaced monks
from a temple dedicated to rites for the dead is a clear suggestion that the Chan hall had
lost its association as a preserve of meditators. The fact that there are no eminent monks
or Chan masters discussed for the Ming other than Zhengying and Benyuan ^-M, who
lived during the Yongle period, further adds to the picture of a dramatic decline in the
Perhaps the most degrading incursion of the period was the occupation of the Hall
of the Ordination Platform by gunpowder manufacturers which lasted for some thirty
Elite Groups' Attitudes," Nanyang University Journal 5 (1971) 81-100 and "A Study of the Peasant
Society of South Fukien, 1506-1644," Nanyang University Journal 6 (1972): 189-212 T'len Ju-K'ang
1990. 92-95 discusses the depredations of Fujian monasteries during this period.
     Sizhi II.35a-37b. Jinjiang was left with 1 lqmg 6mu 8fen; Nan'an was left with 9qmg lmu; Huian was
left with 9qmg 85mu 6fen; Tong'an didn't loose any leaving 44mu Ah \hao; Arm was left with none,
Yongchun was left with 2qing 52mu; Xianyou was left with 4qmg 27mu 4fen 31i, m Putian, Longxi and
Changtai all holdings were sold.
187
    The Temple of Land and Water was located outside the grounds of Kaiyuan monastery During the
Qmg dynasty, it would be rebuilt on Kaiyuan's property
supply officers (caiguan ^TET). I consider this ignominious event the nadir of Kaiyuan's
decline. Many treasures were lost or perished during these years of occupations.
Conditions would not begin to improve until 1594 when a member of the "Purple Cloud"
Huang ancestral clan set in motion the wheels of restoration some 900 years after the
The desperate state reached by Kaiyuan in this period was mirrored at monasteries
throughout Ming China. In 1571 the prominent monk Zhuhong arrived at Mount Yunqi
^ffilli in Hangzhou where he found a ruined temple which he restored and headed
called Yunqi Monastery. He stayed there as abbot until his death in 1615. He agreed
that "Chan practice in the late Ming was in a deplorable state" and considered the terrible
state of the Sangha a reflection of the age of degenerate dharma.1 ° Yii Chun-fang has
argued that the emergence of four masters during the late Ming was part of a late Ming
renewal of Buddhism after two hundred years of stagnancy. Those four masters were
and Ouyi Zhixu Minimi /lS(1599-1655).192All of these masters were active during the
1SS
    Sizhi 2b
189
    Yu 1981:18-28.
190
    Yu 1981:35.
191
    J.C. Cleary has translated primary materials reflecting the life and thought of Yibo m Yibo The Last
Great Zen Master of China (Asian Humanities Press, 1989).
192
    Yu 1981. 2-3. Of these masters, Yu writes. "Their influence permeated the monastic and lay Buddhist
communities of their times and charted the course for the development of Buddhism in later generations
Both monastic and lay Buddhism of the Ch'mg and Republican periods derived their doctrinal formulations
and practical methods of cultivation from Ming precedents."
193
    Yu 1981: 3 Of these masters, Yu writes "Their influence permeated the monastic and lay Buddhist
communities of their times and charted the course for the development of Buddhism in later generations.
throughout China after the devastation wrought by the long and punitive reign of
Shizong. Monasteries were built on a more lavish scale than had been seen in centuries
and Buddhist scriptures were printed and distributed throughout China.194 It was during
this period of Buddhist renewal under imperial support that Kaiyuan entered a much
needed period of restoration which I call the Late Ming Restoration. It was this period of
restoration that I compared to the current era in the introduction. Both periods may be
decline. It is too early to tell what else will develop in the decades to come.
The first indication of a change in Kaiyuan's fortunes was the building of the
Purple Cloud Screen or reflecting wall {zhaoqiang ^-pijl)195 across from the main gate by
the vice-mayor (juncheng IfPzR) Mr. Ding Yizhong T ^ ^ r 1 in 1570. This was a physical
change, external to the monastery proper which will mirror developments in the
contemporary revival.
True restoration of the monastery proper began in 1594 when the vice censor-in-
chief196 Mr. Huang Wenbin MjC'M, a descendent of Huang Shougong, reported the
temple's dire situation to the Emperor.1 7 With Shenzong's approval, intruders were
expelled from monastic properties and repairs were undertaken with funding and
leadership from laypersons. Ruyou ^Plfe was not only involved in the recovery and repair
of Kaiyuan's buildings, he also saw to the restoration of Kaiyuan's long neglected and
Both monastic and lay Buddhism of the Ch'mg and Republican periods derived their doctrinal formulations
and practical methods of cultivation from Mmg precedents."
194
    Yu 1981, 154 etc Ascending the throne at the tender age of nine, Shenzong was first guided by his able
minister Zhang JuzhengIMiIE(1525 - 1582)
195
    At other temples this structure is referred to as a "spirit wall" (ying bi #J§) See Pnp Moller 1937 7
196
    xianfu 3^1] l Q.fu duyushi giJtl$P5t
197
    Sizhi I 2b
Kaiyuan acquired master Ouyi's annotated copy of the Huayan Sutra at this time as
well.199 Guanglun also repaired the corridors and the platform in front of the main hall. In
In 1596 Huang Wenbin led the Huang family in the rebuilding of the Donor's
Ancestral Shrine which served, as it does today, as a memorial hall for Huang Shougong
who had donated Kaiyuan's original plot of land.201 The leading role played by the
Huang clan in the late Ming rebuilding of Kaiyuan is also a reflection of the growing
                                                            909
power held by lineage collectives during this period. In the wake of the monastery's
steps towards revival, Mr. Chen Zhizhi P&lhlh wrote the first record (zhi 7&) of the
temple in 1596.203 This earlier monastic record is no longer extant, but was derided by
Yuanxian in his 1643 preface to the Monastery Record as being poorly researched.204
city. Impressively, Kaiyuan's east and west pagodas did not collapse. The Late Ming
Restoration continued under the powerful backing of Quanzhou native Zheng Zhilong M
^E~M ( l $ 2 i t i 1604-1661)205 who led the reconstruction of the main hall (Daxiong
198
    Sizhi I.4a.
199
    This is still held in Kaiyuan's Sutra Library.
200
    He died at the age of fifty-nine. Jmjiangxianzhi 60:1396.
201
    Huang Wenbin's inscription records Huang Shougong had four sons and these four sons moved to the
"four Ans" thus establishing the Huang clan throughout southern Fujian The "Four Ans" are Anxi f&jj^
Huian ,|fe4 Nanan fez; Tongan Wbi See Fujian Fojiao, 1999 vol 4, p.37
202
    See Wang 2008 195-208 for a discussion of the Huang lineage's relationship to Kaiyuan's Donor
Ancestral Hall
203
    Yuanxian notes, however, that Chen's Record was considered inadequate
204
    Sizhi p 2a
205
    Zheng Zhilong was a pirate, merchant, naval commander for Ming and later for the Qing Born in
Fujian, he was baptized a Catholic in Macau He married a Japanese woman named Tagawa Matsu and
Brian J Nichols                   CHAPTER TWO Imperial History                                      107
baodian j^lflk'sLWC) in 1637 with Mr. Zeng Ying ^ f ;              it is their hall which visitors see
today[Figures 2, 40, 72, 80]. All of the wooden columns were replaced with ones of
stone. It was at this time that two exquisite sixteen-sided columns from Quanzhou's long
defunct Hindu temple were transferred to Kaiyuan monastery and incorporated into the
back porch of the mam hall. Made of green limestone, each column has twelve carvings
depicting Hindu deities (Shiva, Krishna etc.) and motifs [Figures 8-10]. These columns
remain in situ at the back of the main hall and stand as a reminder of both the religious
diversity and tolerance that once flourished in Quanzhou as well as the loss of that
Zheng Zhilong installed a large iron incense burner in front of the main hall and
repaired the main gate.207 It is this late Ming reconstruction which serves as the basis for
the gate that stands today. It has been rebuilt or restored several times over the years, but
it is thought that its present style has not significantly diverged from that of the late Ming
reconstruction and that the stone columns used today date from the late Ming
lived m Japan, Taiwan and China Famous now as the father of Zheng Chenggong Hl$j$,5!j( 1624-1662)
who as a Ming loyalist attacked Nanjing from 1658 to 1659 after it had been taken by the Qmg. In retreat,
he took Taiwan from the Dutch in 1662 where his successors remained until it was captured by the Qmg in
 1683 and made part of Fujian The Dutch had been in Taiwan since 1624 when they founded a naval and
trading post (See Qing dynasty below)
206
    For more on these and other Yuan dynasty artifacts in Quanzhou see Guy 2010.
207
    Zheng Zhilong's iron incense burner is alluded to in the poem "Ode to Quanzhou" Yong Quanzhou tfkM
'}\\ by the famous twentieth century poet Guo Moruo ?P'i^3=r (1892-1978) It is now located in Kaiyuan's
Buddhist Museum
208
    Some of its large stone columns may date from the Tang or Northern Song dynasty, these columns
exhibit entasis (swelling) such as one finds in Greek architecture Columns with tapering at the top and
base are known in Chinese architecture as shuttle {suo $?) columns and are known to be from Tang times I
am not aware of how rare such columns exhibiting entasis are in East Asia Tracy Miller has identified such
columns dating from the eleventh century at the Sage Mother Hall §=#15 of the Jin Memorial Shrines
(Jinci W^f) in Shanxi (Miller 2007 110-111) Such columns may also be found at the eighth century main
hall or kondo of Japan's Toshodaiji Buddhist monastery Jif J§ J l # in Nara This monastery was founded by
and rebuilt enough of its monastic structures and land to accommodate the needs of its
monastic population. Beyond this, efforts to bring masters to Kaiyuan to give teachings
had begun as well. Interestingly it was the local gentry, rather than Kaiyuan's monks,
which extended the invitation to Yuanxian (1578-1657), a monk from Fuzhou's Mount
Drum monastery, to give teachings at Kaiyuan in the winter of 1635. Yuanxian accepted
their invitation and would go on to acquiesce to their requests that he write a record {zhi
;ife) of Kaiyuan monastery. Yuanxian provides the following account of how he came to
            In my free time there I looked into the monastery's past and acquired
            two books, the Biographies of Bodhisattvas and the Collected Works
            ofMengguan (j&MMi)- Upon reading them I began to realize how
            many venerable masters there had been at the "Purple Cloud" and
            was stirred with great admiration. At that time, Mr. Huang Jitao M
            =p!z£ asked me several times about writing a record book, but I was
            then occupied with teaching the Surangama Sutra {Lengyanjing W
            f^tx.) at the request of Mr. Zeng Eryun H—-s", so I wouldn't dare
            make any promises.
                  In spring of 1642, when I returned to Fujian (Mm) from
            Zhejiang, I was again requested to preside at the summer retreat
            (jiezhi ^nM).209 I was again asked by Mr. Fu Youxin /ft|$Mj> about
            writing a record, so I told him I would do it when I had returned to
            Mount Drum (Gushan itjclll).210 Venturing forth in spite of my
            incompetence, I recklessly took up my brush.211
Yuanxian completed the Monastery Record in 1643. In it he mused that the time seemed
like one of renewal and hoped it would in fact blossom into a time of growth of the
the Chinese monk Jianzhen SM or m% (J. Ganjm, 688-763) in the eighth century who traveled to Japan
to construct an ordination platform and establish a valid ordination lineage
209
    The summer retreat or Jiezhi traditionally begins April 13 or 15 of the lunar calendar and continues until
July 15lh (oral interviews with Da Zhuo and Jianymg 2007)
210
    The monastery on Mount Drum (Gushan) lies just outside Fuzhou Lewis Hodous writing in 1923
describes a trip to Mount Drum in Buddhism and Buddhists in China, pp 15-16
211
    Sizhi ?2a-b
            Recent years have seen the restoration of the ordination platform and
            the dharma hall. Fortunately, the main hall has also been renovated.
            It seems like a time of renewal (qiri laifu -b 0 ^M.)- ' We should
            respond to this opportunity with our best even though we don't know
            whether this recovery will be only partial or more complete (weilin
            weitai y^Jl|^iy%ll).213 If we are only concerned about old property
            not being returned rather than practicing virtue, then, even if all the
            buildings and property were recovered, what would be the point of
            living here! 214
Yuanxian exhorts Kaiyuan's late Ming dynasty monks to be less concerned about
recovering lost properties and focus, rather, on the cultivation of virtue and the practice of
meditation. If monks will tend to their own discipline and cultivation, Yuanxian goes on
to counsel, their virtue will give rise to benefits, such as the support of laypersons. Just
as Huang Shougong rewarded the virtue of the monk Kuanghu, suggests Yuanxian, so
may patrons today be impressed with the virtue of monks if only they will exert
themselves. What Yuanxian perceived at the end of the Ming dynasty remains relevant
with respect to Kaiyuan's current restoration; we will return to this in the chapters to
follow. Below we will see how the promise of the Late Ming Restoration was in fact
212
    qiri laifu -fcEBfiff- lit "returning in seven days" is taken from the 24th hexagram m the Yi Jing (Book
of Changes) and indicates the return of yang after a cycle oiyin In this case a return of vitality to the
temple after a period of decline See Huang 2001 204-211
21J
    Yuanxian refers to hexagrams 19 {hn l|n "overseeing") and 11 (tai ^"tranquility") to express different
ways the renewal may proceed
214
    Sizhl 19b-20a
The dynastic change from the Ming to the Qing (1644-1911) brought a good deal
(Koxinga, 1624-1662), whose father, Zheng Zhilong, had rebuilt Kaiyuan's main hall and
main gate at the end of the Ming, had lived in Quanzhou from the age of seven. Better
known in the West as Koxinga, he remained a Ming loyalist and waged a spirited battle
against the Manchus, attacking Nanjing with loyalist support from Yunnan from 1658 to
1659. Driven back by Qing forces, Zheng Chenggong fled to Taiwan where he
confronted and defeated the Dutch in 1662 (the Dutch had established a trading post there
in 1624). His followers and fellow Ming loyalists kept up the battle against the Qing
after his death for another twenty years in which control of Quanzhou and Zhangzhou
repeatedly changed hands from Ming to Qing during the Revolt of the Three Feudatories
{sanfan zhiluan H^^.r5L). 216 The back and forth finally ended when the Qing captured
From 1662 to 1681, during the two decades of battle between Ming loyalists and
the Qing Manchus over control of Fujian, the Qing ordered the forced evacuation of the
2,5
    Yuanxian's Monastery Record of 1634 has been the primary source for the preceding reconstruction of
Quanzhou Kaiyuan's history. Since it ends with the Ming dynasty, I have had to rely on information from
the [Daoyuan] Jinjiang County Gazetteer and several Qing dynasty inscriptions. These sources provide the
material for the following sketch of Kaiyuan monastery under the Qing.
216
    The three feudatories that revolted were Yunnan, Guangdong and Fujian. The revolt was led by Wu
Sangui ^EL^k of Yunnan, Geng Jingzhong I|kff -S of Fujian and Shang Kexi fnj nJU and Shang Zhixin |n]
^.{a of Guangdong. On the revolt see Peter Lorge's War, Politics and Society in Early Modern China, 900-
1795 (Routledge, 2005) pp. 154-156; David Graff and Robin Higham's A Military History of China
(Westview Press, 2002) pp. 119-121. On Zheng family rule in Taiwan see Gary Davidson's A Short History
of Taiwan (Praeger Publishers, 2003) pp. 16-21.
217
    Morton & Lewis 2005: 141. See also Ralph C. Croizier's Koxinga and Chinese Nationalism: History,
Myth, and the Hero (Harvard University Asia Center, 1968). Due to its support for Ming loyalists and
Taiwan's role as a haven for rebels, Fujian endured a strong military presence during the Qing. By 1767 it
supported a larger Green Standard force than any other province in China. (Naquin and Rawski 1987:171)
evacuation was most severe in Fujian and Eastern Guangdong where millions of people
suffered untold hardships. When settlers returned to their homes in Quanzhou and
Zhangzhou there was intense competition for land and powerful lineage collectives
battled with one another for control of land and resources throughout the Yongzheng
period (1723-1735). The newly opened port at Amoy exacerbated the competitive
atmosphere, with all powerful lineages wanting to get a piece of the action.219 Lineage
organization from the sixteenth century onward as hardships increased during the Ming.
Quanzhou was home to some of the most powerful lineages in Fujian and it was also,
along with Zhangzhou, the source of infamous armed feuds among lineages.220
The full extent of the damage to Kaiyuan during these forty years of resistance to
Manchu rule in Fujian is not clear, but it is known that the Donor's Ancestral Hall was
damaged during the turmoil and was likely related to the armed feuds between lineages in
Quanzhou. It was soon rebuilt by members of the Huang family from Nan'an and
Huian. Kaiyuan's monks were apparently spared the forced evacuation and major
construction and renovations continued throughout the period. Most notable in this regard
is the reconstruction of the Ordination Hall. Reconstruction was initiated in 1662 and
                       777
completed in 1666. Although it has been renovated at various times over the centuries,
218
    Lamley 1990: 265, nt. 26.
219
    Lamley 1990: 165-266.
220
    Lamley 1990: 256-257. Lamley 1990 provides an overview of the phenomena of armed feuds in
Quanzhou and Eastern Guangzhou during the Qmg dynasty.
221
    Kaiyuan si huangshi citang beiji Jfjt^F M fk^'M. fi$ifi("Stele Record of the Ancestral Hall of the
Kaiyuan Monastery Huang Clan") collected in Dean and Zheng 2003: 242-243, inscription #250.
222
    Nian Bensheng ffi^^S. 1666. Chongjie ganlu jietan beiji Jtit^st/tScKS^iS ("Stele Record of the
reconstruction of the Ganlu jietan" In situ in the hall of the Ordination Platform and also included in Dean
and Zheng 2003: inscription #216. Wang Chen-shan's 2008 dissertation incorrectly provides 1400 as the
Drum's Yongquan monastery to the Ordination Hall; they were stored in a small relic
stupa and remain in the hall today. Kaiyuan, as a central and venerable institution of
prosperity. In 1671, for instance, in the midst of the forced evacuation and the struggle
between Ming loyalists and the Qing, the provincial military commander Wang Minzhai
JslWHiiife^n noted the damage suffered by the kitchen and the corridors that run along
During the decades of turmoil from the end of the Ming through the Revolt of the
Three Feudatories in the early Qing what became of the Late Ming Restoration of
Kaiyuan that Yuanxian had hoped would continue? The Late Ming Restoration was, in
fact, strong enough to endure the decades of instability in Fujian that preceded and
followed the founding of the Qing dynasty. Not only were buildings repaired and rebuilt
during the decades of instability but monks were trained in the Chan and Pure Land
traditions with such consistency that a streak of noteworthy masters were produced over
the first century of the Qing dynasty. These masters added several chapels and shrines to
Kaiyuan which, like the pre-Yuan cloisters, served as residences and places of practice
for masters and their disciples. I propose that the instability of the times actually
creating a hostile environment from which literati and other men of talent left for the
tranquil and contemplative setting of the monastery. The turmoil also created conditions
"date" for the current hall (Wang 2008' 135). Weilin also compiled the M-jM^fyt^HM     Quanzhou
Kaiyuansi hualu ("A Record of Utterances of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery").
221
    The 1671 reconstruction was recorded in an inscription by Zhan Yunjie M3t/SM collected in the Jinjiang
xianzhi 69.1651.
doing a new school of Zen was created in Japan, the Obaku or Huangbo M^ school.224
Three Kaiyuan masters of the Qing dynasty traveled to Japan to lead the Obaku school of
It was during this period that Chan master Ruhuan Chaohong #n£j|8;l;(b. 1604)
founded the Duqin chapel jjl^M at Kaiyuan out of a wish to benefit his parents and the
parents of others. He built it with the support of two members of the Huang family and
several monks and agreed to serve as its leader.225 During his tenure as leader of the
Duqin chapel, Ruhuan engaged in Pure Land practice and the release of life with his
colleague Chan master Weishen fS-^J:. Weishen had the ambition to build a temple to
Cundl Bodhisattva (Zhunti pusa JliJII^jp) out of faith in the power of reciting the
incarnations of Guanyin in the esoteric tradition. Construction began in 1662 with the
assistance of the layman Daochong iSM3 and was completed in 1664. The finished
temple was in fact a scaled down replica of Kaiyuan's principal buildings—the main hall,
Bodhisattva.227 The temple was located in the northeast corner of Kaiyuan monastery
224
   For more on the Obaku school, the "third sect of Zen" in Japan, see work by Helen Baroni (e.g. Baroni
2000)
77*i                                                        . ^^   ,   s   t
repaired in 1861 and has been rebuilt over the centuries including quite recently; today it
is commonly referred to as Small Kaiyuan Temple (/h Jf 7n^f). Ruhuan, the most
eminent Chan master of Fujian at that time, served as abbot of the Cundi Chan forest for
a time.
monastery -^Pllj^F in his home district of Hui'an. He was a respected Confucian scholar
in the service of the Ming who refused to serve the Qing and was especially opposed to
shaving his forehead in the Manchu style. In his opposition to Manchu rule, he
determined to leave public life and become a monk. He studied under master Genxin j=L
Zhangzhou. During his years of travel to various monasteries he spent time at Kaiyuan
where he established the Duqin Chapel. When he was asked to lead the Cundi Chan
Forest he left instructions that the abbot of Duqin Chapel was to be elected by
laypersons.229 Soon after taking charge of Cundi Chan Forest, he left to take his position
as abbot of Nan'an Xuefeng monastery which he held for some thirteen years. Ruhuan
was a great luminary of post-Ming Buddhism in Fujian; his writings have been collected
Another most eminent monk of seventeenth century Fujian is Chan master Muan
7^J|| (J. Mokuan, 1611-1684) who was a disciple and dharma heir of Yinyuan Longqi $i
228
    Ruhuan #PiQ. 1664. Kaiyuansi xingjian zhunti chanlin JF 7G#fJf W&i/sWWl&iRecord of the
Founding of the Cundi Chan Forest at Kaiyuan monastery). It is likely that the replica of the Ordination
Hall that was part of the CundT Chan Forest served as a model for the rebuilding of the actual Ordination
Hall two years later.
229
    Kaiyuansi Duqin' an ji. This indicates the importance lay Buddhists had assumed in the late Ming and
early Qing.
who was thus the grand-master of both Muan and Ruhuan. Yinyuan, in fleeing the
turmoil that followed the collapse of the Ming in Fujian, traveled to Japan were he
founded of the Obaku school of Zen. The Obaku (C. Huangbo) school became the third
largest school of Zen in Japan, after Rinzai and Soto, and today has some 460 branch
Muan became a novice at Kaiyuan monastery when he was sixteen and took the
tonsure at the age of nineteen.231 He traveled for a short period and returned to Kaiyuan
at the age of twenty-two and founded the Amitabha Chapel (mituo an 3ft PB^) at
Kaiyuan. He became fully ordained at the age of twenty-four and dedicated himself to the
pursuit of Chan. He was elected Kaiyuan's general manager (jianyuari) at the age of
twenty-five, but soon left to study with several different Chan masters in Zhejiang. In
1642 he again returned to Kaiyuan at which time he wrote poems for Kaiyuan's "Eight
disciple and received dharma transmission from him in 1651, thus becoming the thirty-
third patriarch of the Linji Chan lineage. Muan traveled to Japan in 1655, one year after
Yinyuan had made the journey. In 1664, he became the abbot of the Wanfu monastery 75
fe^f (J. Mampuku-ji), the headquarters of the Obaku school in Japan which Yinyuan had
founded in 1659 on land bestowed by the emperor of Japan; it is located in Uji ^Yn,
    See Dougill, John. 2006. Kyoto A Cultural History. Oxford University Press, p. 78.
211
    Biographical information on Muan comes from Shen Yushui £fc3s7.K. 1990. Muan chanshi xing/i xinian
Jf-W&W\Yi£:%.^- ("Year-by-year Account of Chan Master Muan's Activities").
232
    These poems are preserved in Shen Yushui £fc3E7JC 1990: 73-75. The groupings of Kaiyuan's eight
phenomena and six sites are at least as old as the Yuan dynasty.
Obaku school) and succeeding Yinyuan as abbot of the head Obaku monastery, Muan
become the second patriarch of the Obaku school in Japan (in addition to being the thirty-
third patriarch of the Linji lineage). Muan, along with Yinyuan and Jifei I P # , was a
renowned calligrapher; together they are known as the "Three Brushes" of the Obaku
school. Of the three, however, only Muan is noted for his poetry as well as his
            234
painting.
Two other monks from Kaiyuan traveled to Japan and became abbots of
Mampuku-ji and patriarchs of the Obaku school, they were Shengchui Fangbing jSiiTf
Anxi in the mountains outside of Quanzhou city and first went to Japan in 1693 and
served as the abbot of Fuji monastery ?R$r#(a.k.a. Quanzhou temple) which had been
founded at the end of the Ming dynasty in 1628 by master Juehai Dt*M, a monk from
Quanzhou and had been led by several monks from Quanzhou since then. He later served
as the eleventh abbot of Uji's Mampuku-ji from 1719 to 1725 and was a noted
calligrapher. Dapeng was a native of Quanzhou's district of Jinjiang and first went to
Japan in 1722. After serving as abbot of Fuji monastery he became the fifteenth abbot of
Mampuku-ji (1745 to 1748) and then the eighteenth abbot from 1758 to 1765. He was
especially noted for his painting of bamboo and for his seal carving.235 Quanzhou
Kaiyuan monastery thus produced three patriarchs of Japan's Obaku or Huangbo school
2j3
    Yinyuan had first traveled to Nagasaki where he founded monasteries before being asked to establish the
head monastery outside Kyoto on imperially bestowed land.
234
    Shen Yushui 1990: 3. For more on the art of these early patriarchs of the Obaku school see Weidner,
Marsha Smith and Patricia Ann Berger. 1994. Latter Days of the Law: Images of Chinese Buddhism, 850-
1850 . University of Hawai'i Press, pp. 80-82.
235
    Shen Yushui 1990:84-86.
century. This was a most impressive accomplishment during this period and demonstrates
a lingering vitality in both Quanzhou and Kaiyuan's ability to nurture eminent monks
The Late Ming Restoration laid the groundwork for a revival of Buddhism which
the instability of the early Qing appears to have fostered in its own way. The vitality of
the first decades of the Qing persisted beyond the initial decades of turmoil and well into
the next century. Other Kaiyuan monks of the late seventeenth and early eighteenth
century went on to become leaders of other monasteries in the region. One master which
serves as a link between the Late Ming Restoration and the early Qing is Chan master
Daopei iHH (1614-1702) of Mt. Drum. Daopei had received dharma transmission from
Yuanxian, the late-Ming author of the Monastery Record. Like Yuanxian, Daopei was
invited to teach at Kaiyuan. Daopei also presided over ordinations at Kaiyuan. Taiji ^ClR
was tonsured at Kaiyuan and later received full ordained at Kaiyuan under Daopei. Taiji
built the One Leaf Chapel iyiye an — Pf 0) at Kaiyuan where he spent the remainder of
his days teaching and practicing; his manuscripts were collected in the Yiye'an yigao —'
Ofifitfra (The Left Papers of One Leaf Chapel).236 Haiyin M&P became a monk at
Kaiyuan and was also ordained under Daopei. When the abbot of Nan'an Xuefeng
monastery, Zhaozhuo MILH was ill, Haiyin took over management responsibilities and
the monk Decui ^MW. After entering the monastic community at Kaiyuan, Decui
followed Daopei back to Mt. Drum where he studied under him for eight years. Decui
returned to Kaiyuan in 1738 and became the head monk of the Ordination Hall.238 Jirui Ml
$& became a monk at Kaiyuan and later served as abbot of Chongfu monastery where he
built the Ten-thousand Buddha Hall (wanfo daochang Tli^MMl). Zongbiao T K ^ was
a novice at Kaiyuan from the age of seventeen and received full ordination under master
Pure Living Hut (Qingju liao Inf^S).240 Mingguang ^M^t became a monk at Kaiyuan's
Yongzhuang Chapel M f t ^ i and was noted for his poetry and calligraphy.241
The record of these masters attest to the strength of the Late Ming Restoration and
Kaiyuan's ability to ordain and train monks who would become leaders of other
Mampuku-ji throughout the first century of the Qing. Another sign of vitality during this
period was the establishment of several chapels and shrines which functioned much like
Kaiyuan's pre-Yuan cloisters. The structures established between the Late Ming
Restoration and the first hundred years of the Qing include the Cundl Chan Temple, the
Duqin Chapel, the Amitabha Chapel, the Yongzhuang Chapel, the One Leaf Chapel and
the Pure Living Hut. Of all these early Qing dynasty structures only the Cundl Chan
northeastern corner of the monastic grounds, its fate will be discussed in later chapters
Contributing to the success of Kaiyuan during the first part of the Qmg dynasty
was the generally favorable attitude of Qing emperors to Buddhism The eighteenth
support for the monastery made possible, in part, by the Qmg government's favorable
attitude 242 In 1727 some forty years after its last rebuilding the Donor's Ancestral Shrine
was again in need of repair, repairs were carried out by members of the Nan'an Huang
family 243 The dharma hall was destroyed (hui ^ ) in 1755 and was later rebuilt 244 In
1781, the golden pinnacle fell from the top of the East pagoda, it was repaired by the
prefect Zhang Jiayan "jkMlfc. 245 Two bronze bells were cast for use at Kaiyuan durmg the
Qmg dynasty246
The early Qmg vitality did not last and Kaiyuan's decline began in tandem with
the social chaos that had began to engulf South China as pirate raids grew increasingly
more frequent and devastating from 1795 to 1810 During this period of turmoil along the
242
    In 1701 six chains at the top of the West pagoda were replaced each weighing 110 jin Lin Zhaochang
# ^ B 1701 Kaiyuansi xita tike Jfjt^f l5i:§II^!j("Inscnption on the west pagoda of Kaiyuan
Monastery") The inscription is found on the central column of the west pagoda and is also included in
Dean and Zheng 2003 227, inscription #231 In 1719, twenty-one Buddha statues in the East and West
pagodas were remade by the military envoy Ya Huiqi f l i ^ of Anon 1719 Kaiyuansi xita tike       Jfjt^WM
H^Ll("Inscnption on the west pagoda of Kaiyuan Monastery") by an unnamed monk The inscription is
located on the center column of the west pagoda and is also included in Dean and Zheng 2003 237,
inscription #243
     Huang Zigong Yi J t ^ ^ H X 1729 Kaiyuansi huangshi citang beyi Tf jn^f H K-faJ^fi^TflO'Stele
record of the Huang surname ancestral hall within Kaiyuan Monastery") located in Kaiyuan's Tanyueci and
collected m Dean and Zheng 2003 242-243, inscription #250
244
    Jinjiang xianzhi 69 1651
245
    Jinjiang xianzhi 69 1652
246
    The first was cast m 1670 using Yuan dynasty bronze and housed in the Hall of the Ordination Platform
and the second bronze bell was cast in 1723 and both bells are currently held in Kaiyuan's museum
Fujiansheng Wenguanhui gongzuozu WiM.% X f s l f t S 1962 Fujian Quanzhou Kaiyuansi 1962
diaocha baogao W>^&)\\3fK^^fL7\~^~l^Ma                     p 27 By the Republican period this bell had
been moved to the mam hall It now sits in Kaiyuan's Buddhist Museum
#11). On top of social and economic troubles, Quanzhou was then suffering a draught
and the people were desperate for rain. It is recorded that Yude earnestly prayed for rain
at Kaiyuan monastery and that very night rain began to pour and continued the following
day thus ending a potentially devastating draught. Crops were rescued, and the good
harvest that followed saved the lives and livelihoods of thousands. Yude, having noticed
that Kaiyuan's main hall was damaged and that many walls were crumbling, was moved
to donate his own salary towards repairs and solicited others to contribute to the
according to their means; renovations began in the spring of 1805 and were complete by
the end of the summer. The major and minor halls as well as the worshipping pavilion
and the corridors were all repaired and made to look new again. Yude made an
enduring reputation as a place of spiritual efficacy or ling that during these dark and
desperate days before the eruption of the Taiping Rebellion it found a patron who
Even though the monastery had been fully renovated in 1805, maintenance in the
wet climate of Southern Fujian is a full time job and by the summer of 1813 the main
gate was in shambles and the statues of the two guardian kings were exposed and badly
ul
  Chongjian Kaiyuansi beiji J i l t JFTG^fS^iS ("Stele Record of the Reconstruction of Kaiyuan
Monastery") Jinjiangxianzhi 69'1651-1652. This inscription is also included in Dean and Zheng 2003
314-315, inscription #324
wood but their results were makeshift. A year later the prefect Sheng Benchang i S ^ H l
donated funds and led the effort for full repair of the main gate and the guardian kings.
Officials, gentry and lay persons all contributed to the project which was supervised by
the monk Dazhong ji£jiC and began in October and was finished in the winter of 1815.2
Inl837 an iron bell cast for use at Kaiyuan was sponsored by forty-six Taiwan-
based businesses whose names are inscribed on the bell. This bell offers evidence of the
ties that existed between Kaiyuan monastery and Quanzhou citizens who had relocated to
Taiwan and established businesses there. This bell may be read as a document reflecting
Quanzhou that received protection and support but also a refuge for the destitute. A story
is told by those versed in the history of the monastery that a young girl from Nan'an, who
was orphaned at the age of eight, was sent to Kaiyuan monastery to live. She became a
nun who received the name Miaoxiang tty^r (cr.1803-1888).249 As conditions throughout
the Qing empire worsened, confrontations with European powers resulted in two Opium
Wars (1839-1842 and 1856-60) and discontent in South China exploded in the Taiping
monks during this period of turmoil and that in 1851 the nun Miaoxiang assumed
248
    Yang Binhai ^k"l%'M 1815. Chongxiu kaiyuansi qianjmji xiangji [tang] langji WJ& J+7£^ffu ift-XHf
f°[^]/iBiB ("Record of Repairs to the Main Courtyard (qianjin WS) and Kitchen Corridor of Kaiyuan
Monastery"). Inscription is recorded in the Jinjiang xianzhi 69 1652 The inscription is also included in
Dean and Zheng 2003 317, inscription #328
249
    Dates for Miaoxiang are from Huang Yushan, oral interview 2009
renovations of the Water and Land Temple and the Ordination Hall which were carried
out in her name. From 1869 to 1870 Kaiyuan's Water and Land temple was rebuilt. It
should be recalled that Quanzhou's Water and Land temple had been seized during the
Ming dynasty and its monks given shelter at Kaiyuan's Cloister of Bliss which
subsequently became known as the Water and Land Temple.251 In 1870 the Ordination
Hall was renovated by Miaoxiang and her disciple Huilian S S I . It must have been
during this renovation that phoenixes were installed at the top of the ceiling above the
statue of Lossana [Figure 14]. It is more customary to have dragons in a temple and it
seems that the use of phoenixes may have been an influence stemming from Empress
Dowager Cixi HM^CJn who was then ruling behind the scenes in Beijing.252
The fortunes of Buddhism throughout China took had taken a drastic turn for the
worse with the rise of the Christian-inspired Taiping Rebellion led by Hong Xiuquan £&
war," the Taiping Rebellion claimed between ten and twenty million lives.253 The
turmoil wrought untold destruction upon Buddhist monasteries and their works of art and
but its halls, pagodas and library survived under the management of Miaoxiang. As chaos
the end of the Qing dynasty as marking the "end of an epoch for Chinese Buddhism."254
Welch was referring to the seizure of Buddhist monasteries for use as schools which was
carried out with limited enforcement after the 1898 edict of emperor Guangxu Jt^i
which was reiterated by a 1904 government order to use available temple properties for
the establishment of schools.255 This was a shift from the general Qing policy of offering
Buddhist monasteries protection; by the end of the Qing, the emperors had finally come
under the influence of the literati who had been calling for such re-outfitting to occur
since the early Qing, some two hundred and fifty years earlier.256 We will see how
unravel Kaiyuan's story in the following chapter. Before moving to Republican period
This chapter has taken us through more than one thousand and two hundred years
surveyed the stream of eminent monks who have graced its halls. We have witnessed an
energetic building program that has continually maintained the core buildings of the
234
    Welch 1968: 11
255
    Welch discusses sources for this information in Welch 1968 296-297, nt 28
256
    The seizure of monasteries for education uses was proposed by the Qing intellectual Huang Zongxi as
early as 1662 (Welch 1968 10-11)
the expansion of the monastery to a sprawling campus of 120 neighboring cloisters and
the contraction of the monastery to its central axis and a handful of other structures. We
have seen the monastery destroyed by fire, occupied by commoners and abandoned by
monks. But we have witnessed that destruction, occupation or abandonment has never
lasted, that Quanzhou Kaiyuan has always recovered, rebuilt and restored a measure of its
past greatness. Such longevity is common enough in China, but it is not the norm. Many
another, never to recover as a living place of religious practice. I have counted the
religious structures enumerated in the fifteenth century Annals ofFujian (Bamin tongzhi
convents and shrines accounted for throughout Fujian. Included among those more than
5,000 sites, are 1,928 Buddhist monasteries (si ^f). 257 Today there only a fraction of this
patterns of rise and fall in which the state and elites play an important role. More
specifically we may note three interrelated patterns that operate throughout Kaiyuan's
imperial history: 1) patronage by elites, 2) the regulatory and interventionist state and 3)
continual modulation to changing conditions. These three patterns are common to every
important monastery in China; how they have been manifest at Quanzhou Kaiyuan
provides a local and detailed account that may be used by other scholars in a comparative
5
    Bamin tongzhi 75-79.
From its founding to the present Kaiyuan has benefited from patronage by
members of the local, regional and national elite. Patronage by the Huang family began
with the founding of Kaiyuan monastery on land donated by Huang Shougong and has
continued with Huang family descendents down to the present; noteworthy is the
participation of the Huang family in the late Ming, Qing and, to be discussed in the next
chapter, Republican Period restorations. Patronage by the local elite, especially the
under Wang family rule and continued through the Song dynasty resulting in the
construction of more than one hundred cloisters built through the patronage of local
elites. The support of local elites continued under the late Ming luminary Zheng Zhilong
and military commanders Wang Minzhai and Bai Yude during the Qing. A theme of elite
support that can be detected from the legend of Huang Shougong to the restoration led by
Kaiyuan has enjoyed the support of emperors and member of the national elite
throughout imperial China's history. It has been known by imperially bestowed names
since its founding — being named in turn by Empress Wu, Emperors Zhongzong,
Xuanzong and Shizu tttlJi. (i.e. Kublai Khan). Tang Yizong named the East pagoda, Song
Huizong named the West pagoda and Song Gaozong named the ordination platform.
Tang Xuanzong donated Kaiyuan's central Buddha statue while Ming Taizu sent master
Related to the support of elites is the relationship that exists between the health of
the local economy and the wealth of the monastery. It is not merely coincidence that
Kaiyuan's most impressive structures, the twin pagodas, date from an era accustomed to
opulence; nor that Kaiyuan supported the largest numbers of monastics during
Quanzhou's most prosperous periods, the Song and Yuan dynasties. The preceding
survey of history suggests a direct correlation between Quanzhou's loss of its port, its
loss of status as a crossroads of luxury goods, its loss of role as an important point for the
transshipment of goods from across the known world to points throughout China and the
decimation of Kaiyuan's monastic population during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The
health of the local economy and the corresponding economic health of local elites have
had a direct bearing on Kaiyuan's ability to provide material support for its monks. The
correlation between local economic performance, the income of elites and the health of
Kaiyuan's monastic population has operated throughout Kaiyuan's long history and
Just as the state and political elites could be a source of support and patronage of
Kaiyuan, they were also entities that could restrict, control and even dismantle the
Sangha and its monastic properties. A look at Chinese history suggests that state
church-state relations in China. It is certainly the case that state involvement in the affairs
of Kaiyuan monastery has remained a constant from its founding in 686 up to the present.
ways and the state has also been, at times, a force of discipline, contraction and
suppression. History has demonstrated, however, that Kaiyuan as Quanzhou's largest and
most prominent monastery has been spared during the most severe periods of state-
orchestrated suppression such at the Tang Huichang Persecution of 845 and the
prohibitions of the Ming dynasty. Kaiyuan experienced its first severe state-orchestrated
contraction under the Yuan dynasty with the abolition of 117 cloisters. Ming policies led
to two periods of restoration, but between these periods Kaiyuan dipped to a miserable
condition in which it lost most of its income-producing lands (most of which were never
recovered), and its population of monks teetered on the verge of collapse. This mid-Ming
dynasty collapse offers parallels to the situations faced by Kaiyuan during the Republican
and Maoist periods in terms of loss of lands, wide-spread laicization and, during the
involvement will come to the fore in what was surely the largest suppression of
Buddhism since the Huichang Persecution, the Cultural Revolution. We will see how
Kaiyuan was again spared the worst of this most recent round of state suppression in the
following chapter. The present chapter has provided what I consider crucial
contextualization of both the Cultural Revolution and the present restoration. In short,
neither are unprecedented in China's history and it is important to recognize the type of
throughout Chinese history. The People's Republic of China has consistently reaffirmed
that have passed through the scientific revolution and the European Enlightenment take
for granted as part of modernity. The separation between Church and State is a pillar of
modern secular states and the value of such separation is regarded as a given by those
states. Although the Chinese position may not agree with liberal democratic principles, it
century.
3. Continual Modulation
Kieschnick suggests that the general neglect that regularly leads to the wholesale
rebuilding of monasteries over and over again is related to the notion that greater merit is
maintenance on a more meager scale. Welch, connected the regular destruction and
rebuilding of monasteries in China to cycles of physical and moral decline and renewal
which he termed the "monastic cycle" suggesting an analogy with the rise and fall of
dynasties known as the "dynastic cycle." Kaiyuan monastery, like other monasteries of a
comparable age and venerability has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. More to the
point, however, it has seen times of efflorescence and times of decay, periods of
expansive growth and periods of dramatic decline, days of new coats of paint and freshly
gilded statues and days of buildings in ruin, seasons of brilliant and disciplined monks
and seasons of a poorly disciplined skeleton crew. Kaiyuan has experienced periods of
258
   Kieschnick writes, "[T]he value accorded to the wholesale reconstruction of a monastery contributed to
the general pattern of Buddhist monasteries in China of neglect or destruction followed by rebuilding."
(Kieschnick 2003:193.)
restoration and renewal. Some periods of renewal have been relatively short-lived, but
Kaiyuan has always managed to comeback from any disaster and restore a core group of
On the whole, Kaiyuan enjoyed an astounding stretch of more than 400 years of
continual development from the end of the seventh century to the end of the twelfth
century. These years represent Kaiyuan's golden age, when it was a Buddhist Kingdom
unto itself teeming with masters of diverse schools. With the fall of the Song dynasty,
Kaiyuan whose growth had tapered off during the thirteenth century began a downward
spiral that it has been unable to reverse with any convincing momentum apart from a one
hundred year stretch from the late Ming to the early Qing. Kaiyuan has experienced
damage, destruction or loss of land associated with changes in regime ever since the
overthrow of the Southern Song by the Yuan in 1280 when the monastery lost of 117 of
its 120 cloisters. Losses often occurred in struggles surrounding the dynastic change itself
as was the case at the end of the Yuan and Ming dynasties. At other times contraction or
suppression occurred shortly after the founding of a new regime as was seen in the
founding of the Yuan and to a less extent in the founding of the Ming. Over the centuries,
Kaiyuan has lost cloisters and land that it has never recovered, but it has succeeded in
maintaining a solid core of buildings and monastic property. The restoration of a dynamic
and talented community of monks, on the other hand, has been a more elusive goal (not
monasteries, exhibits continual modulation of its cultural and political capital as it adapts
cultural capital are exemplified by changes in material culture, which are linked to
modifications in ritual and doctrinal foci as well as institutional shifts. Material culture
includes all physical structures (buildings, statues, pagodas, stupas, courtyards, ponds
etc.) and material objects (scriptures, relics, ritual implements, food, clothing etc.) as well
The earliest manifestation of the monastery (main hall, main gate, venerated site
institution. Most central is the Buddha hall, which soon had a Buddha image bestowed by
the emperor. To properly orient the main hall along a central axis in conformity with
Chinese notions of sacred geomancy requires another building to share the axis.
main gate serves both purposes. In addition, as a site for the cultivation of monks, in
conformity with settled monastic traditions, a dormitory for monks is required. This was
one of the functions of the Venerated Site Cloister. Thus we can gather from Kaiyuan's
material culture at this early stage the minimalist, yet formal nature of the monastery's
origins.
From these humble beginnings, Kaiyuan developed into a huge complex of one
manifests the changing political and economic circumstances of Quanzhou under Wang
family patronage and subsequent local elites and the economic growth that fueled
Quanzhou prosperity and funded Kaiyuan's expansion. The Wang family's support of
Buddhism is not simply manifest in the growth of Kaiyuan's physical plant, but in the
excellence and this excellence is manifest in a greater number of eminent monks recorded
for posterity. The Monastery Record lists forty-six eminent monks associated with
Kaiyuan from the time of its founding to the end of the Ming. 41% of them are from the
interregnum period, 35% date to the Northern Song, 11% to the Southern Song, 9% to the
Yuan and 4% to the Ming (where the Monastery Record ends). These numbers of
eminent monks correspond with the rise and decline of Kaiyuan's one hundred and
twenty cloisters. The active period of building cloisters, which spanned the interregnum
and Northern Song periods, accounts for 76% (35) of the eminent monks in the
Monastery Record. With financial problems that evolved during the Southern Song,
patronage slowed, building of cloisters slowed down or ceased and so did the number of
eminent monks (from sixteen in the Northern Song to five in the Southern). After the
Yuan dynasty consolidation, the number of eminent monks drops to four or 9%. The
prosperity and a spike in local patronage. The cloister system and the financial support
enabled monks to pursue their callings more successfully—this suggests a link between
shifts. Good examples are the two stages in Kaiyuan's evolution as a Chan monastery.
During the first stage which began at the end of the eleventh century we witness several
cloisters becoming affiliated with the Chan school. After the Yuan consolidation we have
Miao'en and the construction of the two most tell-tale structures of a functioning Chan
monastery. These structures are a Chan hall and a Hall of Patriarchs, which express in
material culture what are arguably the two most salient features of the Chan school—
Other elements of material culture express historical trends such as the building of
the revolving sutra cabinet during the Song dynasty when such items became popular
merit-making machines. It is an item that suggests a desire to attract more devotees. The
vinaya in the twelfth century evinces a trend within the vinaya school at that time as well
as a concern with getting ordinations right—ensuring their efficacy. More and deeper
analysis could be performed for Kaiyuan's cultural properties. These examples suggest
the potential value of tending to material culture as a key conveyer and enabler of
larger trends. The Great Fire of 1357 destroyed every major structure that was not built in
stone and left Kaiyuan in ruins at the onset of the Ming dynasty. Rebuilding and renewal
began under the leadership of master Zhengying in 1398 during the Early Ming
Restoration. By the middle of the sixteenth century the monastery and its monks had
reached a pitiful state marked by the occupation of buildings by non-monastics and the
loss of lands; this was reversed in the Late Ming Restoration initiated by Huang Wenbin
and, a restoration that culminated in the building efforts of Zheng Zhilong in the 1630s—
the main hall he built continues to greet visitors and worshippers to this day. The
years of the Qing dynasty when Kaiyuan produced a handful of eminent masters and sent
three of them to lead the Obaku school in Japan The development of transnational ties
during the Qing is analogous to the lines of exchange and communication established
between Kaiyuan and Southeast Asia during the first half of twentieth century
This chapter has identified broad patterns of decline and renewal in Kaiyuan's
imperial history and the role played by elites, the state and material culture The
following chapter carries the story of Kaiyuan into the post-imperial period Like China
Over the course of the twentieth century, Kaiyuan enjoyed a promising but short-
lived Republican period restoration, suffered the repressions and hardships of war with
Japan, the Civil War and the Cultural Revolution only to set about a full scale recovery in
post-Mao China, a recovery that continues to play out at Kaiyuan and monasteries and
temples throughout China. This chapter examines developments at Kaiyuan over the first
three-quarters of this tumultuous century and sheds lights on three trends in modern
consciousness. While the latter is particularly evident in mainland China today, the
contacts around the globe are distinctive features of Buddhism in contemporary Taiwan.1
During the first half of the twentieth century, Kaiyuan monastery was restored
under the leadership of two prominent monks of the era Yuanying M$& (1878-1953) and
Zhuandao $f 311(1872-1943). Both of these monks are among the most important monks
of modern Chinese Buddhism, but they have scarcely been mentioned by Western-
1
  For the development of engaged Buddhism in Taiwan see Madsen, Richard. 2007. Democracy's Dharma
Religious Renaissance and Political Development in Taiwan. Berkeley: University of California Press On
the globalization of Taiwanese Buddhism see the chapters by Stuart Chandler and Julia Huang in Linda
Learma's Buddhist Missionaries in the Era of Globalization (Honolulu, 2005) on Foguang Shan and Tzu-
chi respectively
2
  As far as I know, Holmes Welch is the only Western scholar to provide a sketch of Yuanying (Welch
1968"40-50, Welch 1967 172-173) The information I provide in this chapter (including footnotes)
expands on Welch's basic portrayal with the help of primary and secondary sources in Chinese such as the
1954 Yuanyingfashi jinian kan H ^ v i S p ^ S ^ l 'J (Master Yuanying Memorial Booklet) As for
public charity at Kaiyuan that will be discussed in detail below. This charity may be seen
over the past couple of decades. These monks were also pioneers in the development of
contacts between mainland monks and overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia; a precursor of
trends that are now spoken of as the globalization of Chinese Buddhism.3 In addition, this
Hongyi's biography that is made available in English for the first time. The promising
revival was not to last, however, as policies changed from suppression to eradication
The trends evident at Kaiyuan over the course of this period may best be
understood in the context of what Talal Asad (2003) has alerted us to perceive as a
(2008) and Yoshiko Ashiwa and David Wank (2009) have followed Asad's call to
order to understand how they mutually inform one another and, in particular, the ways in
which the project of modernity has articulated and continues to articulate a shifting space
for religion in modern and contemporary China. Modernity is a slippery concept that has
been critiqued as not naming a definite or fixed object or essence. But, as Asad has
maintained, modernity can be thought of as a "project" that individuals and states aim to
accomplish and impose upon others.4 These projects of modernity entail forms of
Zhuandao, I only know of a brief reference to him m Ashiwa and Wank 2005. 226 In Chinese there is Yu
Lingbo(2005, 1997).
3
  Wank and Ashiwa (2005)
4
  Asad 2003.12-13.
of reason, science and material progress This project has entailed the imagining of
projects, projects that China undertook with zeal in the periods related by this chapter It
is within the context of these projects of modernity that Kaiyuan's monks were cut off
from traditional sources of income and turned to overseas Chinese for funding, that
Buddhist monasteries began to open schools in effort to stem the seizing of monasteries
and the government, eventually, began to donate funds to preserve items of national
heritage Quanzhou Kaiyuan's confrontation with modernity began with promise and
ended in chaos
By the early twentieth century, although Kaiyuan monastery remained standing, its halls
were empty and quiet Reflecting on the state of the monastery during the late Qmg, the
Kaiyuan's structures had survived the destructive force of the Taipmg Rebellion,
but the monastery fell into a state of neglect that left it effectively deserted at the
beginning of the twentieth century when the Qmg dynasty finally collapsed The desolate
5
    Asad2003 13
    From the 1927 preface by Wu Hengchun H 'f # (Sizhi p2 2b)
throughout the region. After the dust of the Taiping Rebellion had settled, however, a
Buddhist libraries. The efforts of these leaders were largely focused in Southeast China.7
A central figure of these early efforts was the lay Buddhist Yang Wenhui tlJ3t zc
the Republican Period revival. He retrieved sutras that had been lost or were hard to find
in China after the Taiping Rebellion and began printing copies of them at his newly
created Jinling Sutra Publishing House 'sky$t$$\$x.J0L in Nanjing. The press was located
on the grounds of his private home where Yang also opened a school for laypersons and
monks known as the Jetavana Hermitage (Zhihuan jingshe IftSff # ) . The efforts of
these leaders had to contend not only with weakened religious institutions and untrained
The Republican Period was a period of continual political, social and economic
upheaval accompanied by intellectual and religious foment. China had broken with its
imperial past and had set out on an uneven course of modernization and development that
continues to unfold. The intellectual climate of the Republican period was favorable to
Western learning while it was hostile to tradition, especially popular religion, but also
7
 Birnbaum 2003, 124-125. See also Ch'en 1964: 448.
8
 For more on Yang Wenhui see: Chan, Sin-wai, Buddhism in Late Ch 'ing Political Thought, pp. 20-21;
Chen Bing and Deng Zimei (2002) Ershi shiji zhongguofojiao, pp.103-107; Chen Jidong (2004) Seimo
bukkyo no kenkyu, pp. 77-94, 119-203, 551-584; Goldfuss, Gabrielle (1996) 'Binding Sutras and
Modernities: The Life and Times of the Chinese Layman Yang Wenhui (1837-1911)', in Studies in Central
and East Asian Religions, v.9, pp.54-74; Goldfuss, Gabrielle (2001) Vers un Buddhisme duXXe siecle.
Yang Wenhui (1837-1911), reformateur, laique et imprimeur; Pittman, Don (2001) Towards a Modern
Chinese Buddhism, pp.41-50; Welch, Holmes (1968) The Buddhist Revival in China, pp.2-22, 98-100.
Also: Lou, Yulie H ^ - i , ed. (1996) Yang Wenhui, OuyangJian, Lit Chengjuan WoX^- fKWM^ SWl
^S, Shijiazhuang: Hebei jiaoyu. Thanks to Stefania Travagnin for bibliographic suggestions.
Fourth Movement of 1919 and the "New Culture Movement" {xinwenhua yundong §jfJC
ikj&$S), a movement labeled the "Chinese Renaissance" {zhongguo wenyifuxing tf3 MjC
religions as "feudal" and "backward" and lauded secularization as the path to progress. In
this climate temples and monasteries were targeted for confiscation for use as schools,
years of the Republican period. The idea was to break with the backward and feudal past
in order to embrace the scientifically informed future. The names of the movements are
self-explanatory: the Smashing Superstition Movement (mixin dapo yundong) and the
Covert Temples to Schools Movement {miaochan xingxue yundong)}0 The effect of these
movements, apart from decimating much of China's religious heritage (over half of
China's temples had been "seized, destroyed, or diverted from their religious uses" by the
The movement to convert monastic space into school space had been building
since the end of the Qing dynasty. The most innovative monasteries met the threat of
9
   See Duara 1995:85-113 for an account of the Chinese intelligentsia's drives to effect the "end of history"
awaken a new self-consciousness and eliminate religion
10
    For accounts of these iconoclastic movements see Yang 2009:19-26; Duara 1995.85-111 and Ashiwa
2009 49-55
11
    Yang 2008: 20.
12
    This strategy is thought to have been initiated by two Japanese monks, Mizuno Baigyo and Ito Kendo
who set up the first of such schools in 1904 in Hunan, the Hunan Sangha School. Mizuno urged temples to
place themselves under the protection of Kyoto's Higashi Honganji in doing so they would be able to
appeal to the Japanese consulate for protection By the end of 1904, thirty-five monasteries m Zhejiang had
become affiliated with the Kyoto temple, thirteen of them in Hangzhou (Welch 1968 12)
tireless rebuilder of monasteries in South China was Yuanymg. Yuanying was born in
Fujian near Fuzhou14and was tonsured and ordained at Fuzhou's Yongquan monastery
(on Mount Drum, Gushan) by the venerable abbot Miaolian &bjl(1824-1907)15 in 1897.
Miaolian is the earliest known pioneer in the building of connections between mainland
Malaysia in 1885 and by 1904 had established the Jile Temple (Chi-le ssu W&^f, lit.
Temple of Paradise/Bliss), a sub-temple of Fuzhou's Gushan and what was then the
largest and most impressive Chinese temple in Malaysia.16 This early exposure to the
13
    For more on Taixu see Welch 1968 15-18, 51-71 and Don Pittman's study of Taixu entitled Toward a
 Modern Chinese Buddhism (Hawai'i, 2001) In 1922 he founded the Wuchang Buddhist Institute (Wuchang
foxueyuanlRiSii%^¥>%) and inl927 became the leader of the Minnan Buddhist Institute (Minnanfoxue
yuan \^M\%^M) which had been established in 1925 in Xiamen M i l (about 100 km from Quanzhou)
 In 1931, Taixu founded the Tianning Buddhist Institute (tianmngfoxueyuan ^ T M J S J ^ K ) in Zhangzhou,
 Jiangsu province which went on to become the largest, most modern Buddhist seminary of the Republican
 period The modern monk Chen-hua studied there for a year in 1947 He writes about the experience in his
 memoirs See Chen-hua 1992 93-108
14
   He was born in Gutian "SBH, this Gutian is not to be confused with another Fujian Gutian "SBS located on
the road to Mount Wuyi (oral interview with Venerable GuangpuJ^e7i' T=T, 3/2009) Yuanying was Taixu's
senior by eleven years As time went on he broke with Taixu who advocated more radical reform than
Yuanying was willing to accept Yuanying came to lead a conservative faction of the Chinese Buddhist
Association in opposition to the more radical Taixu See Welch 1968 40-50
15
   This Miaolian should not be confused with the later Miaolian#43Iof Shanghai who served as master
Hongyi's attendant and later as abbot of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Gushan's Miaolian is known for founding Jile
temple in Penang, Malaysia, a branch temple of Gushan There were rumors that developed that he was
involved in sexual orgies as the rumors failed to abate he chopped off his genitals with a knife He was
treated by a well known doctor, but he died within the year at the age of 83(Welch 1967 117) Welch
actually writes that he was 63 in 1907 and therefore says he was born in 1844, other sources include Yu
Lingbo''s Zhongguofojiao haiwai hongfa renwu zhi (Yul997 17) See also C S Wong's KekLokSi,
Temple ofPardise (Singapore, 1963)
16
   Miaolian is the earliest known Buddhist monk to migrate to Southeast Asia and develop such connections
between diasponc Chinese and the mainland He received imperial recognition for the establishment of Jile
Temple by the Qmg state, he received name boards from Emperor Guangxu and his Empress Dowager as
well as 7,000 volumes of Buddhist scriptures See Yu 1997 17-23, Welch 1969 192-193, Ashiwa and
Wank 2005 224, DeBernardi 2002 310-311
for Yuanying, who would go on to build his own broad network of overseas connections.
known simply as Gushan (literally "Mt. Drum"). As not only a monk, but an abbot,
Yuanying was especially sensitive to the threat of modernist reforms calling for the
Nanjing at which a proposal was adopted calling for the appropriation of monastic
WOfwi^iS) to lobby against the proposal. The proposal was shelved and Yuanying
immediately set about organizing the Chinese Buddhist Association {zhonghua fojiao hui
Association was established in Shanghai in 1929 and was a means to organize and
strengthen the Chinese Sangha in the face of pressures towards modernization and
17
   From 1928 to 1930 Yuanymg concurrently served as the head of four temples; in addition to his small
temple in Shanghai, he was abbot of Fuzhou's Chongsheng ^H^p, Fuzhou's Fahai S ^ p which he restored
and Ningbo's Qita - t t ^ F (Welch 1967: 172). From 1930 to 1935 he served as abbot of Ningbo's Tiantong
monastery ^ ^ S ^ F / T ' M ^ M ^ P , when he arrived it had about 300 monks and when he left it had more than
400 (Welch 1968. 288) at the same time he was abbot of Fuzhou's Lmyang temple WW? In 1935 he was
then asked by six monasteries to serve as their leader (Welch 1967 172-173). He settled on his home
monastery, Mount Drum (Gushan) where he resided as abbot until 1948 (ibid). He passed away in 1953 at
Ningbo's Tiantong monastery Perhaps his most emment direct disciple was Master Mmgyang (1916-2002)
from Fuzhou who traveled with Yuanying for more than ten years and who served as the abbot of several
important temples m the post-Mao era
18
   Welch 1968 41. The full reasons it was shelved are not clear, but it was shelved and Yuanying's
organization certainly didn't hurt the cause
In 1922, seven years before the Chinese Buddhist Association had been
established, master Yuanying was invited to teach at Singapore's newly established Pujue
Temple by master Zhuandao $ | i i ( 1872-1943). This meeting proved fateful because it set
in motion plans to restore Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery and found an orphanage and
school there. But who was Zhuandao, why was he in Singapore and why was he
Zhuandao was born in Southern Fujian (Minnan) and became a monk in 1890 at
Yangzhou Gaomin Monastery MIJS:^? and practiced with master Xuyun ]J§[7X (Hsu Yun,
1840-1959) for two years. Zhuandao then spent seven years at Ningbo's Tiantong
Monastery where he studied under master Tongzhi M.%3 with Yuanying and Huiquan ^
Jlc..21 In 1913, Zhuandao was asked to help Xiamen's Nanputuo Monastery to raise funds
for the building the Sangha Academy {sengqie xueyuan il? jJPlp|$7c).22 Zhuandao,
accompanied by his dharma brother Zhuanwu fl|#J(fl. 1920-40), left China and traveled
19
   Shortly after the founding of the CBA in 1929, Taixu began to argue with the conservatives led by
Yuanying. This eventuated into a break between the two in 1931 after Taixu had attempted to take control
from the conservatives led by Yuanying. Taixu continued to work to create an organization of Chinese
Buddhist with himself as head; he succeeded in creating an organization but died before he could lead it
(March 17, 1947). Welch 1968: 43-47. For more on Yuanying's relief efforts during war with Japan see
Yu, Xue. 2005. Buddhism, War, and Nationalism: Chinese Monks in the Struggle against Japanese
Aggressions, 1931-1945. New York: Routledge, p. 158.
20
   Yu 1997:25.
21
   Yu 1997:25. See also Ashiwa and Wank 2005: 226. He also studied Tiantai with Master Dixianiflibt
Tiantong Monastery. Yu 1997:25.
22
   Nanputuo's abbot Xican had invited Zhuandao to Xiamen. According to Yu Lingbo master Xican needed
eight respected masters to attend the ordination ceremony at Nanputuo (Yu 1997:26), but the Singapore
Lay Society says that Xican wanted to go into retreat and requested Zhuandao to look after Nanputuo as
temporary abbot ($ji!]Ol!^ldrWWl{A Brief Introduction to the Buddhist Lay Society of Singapore], p. 21).
Whatever the precise reason, Zhuandao remained in Xiamen and Zhangzhou for a period of time and
oversaw the construction of the large pond for releasing life that one now finds in front of Nanputuo (ibid).
established Putuo Temple (PohToh Si,i3 PSTF) where he resided as abbot. In 1921 he
built Pujue Temple HpJI^f in Singapore which, some years later, would develop into the
largest Chinese monastery in Southeast Asia. Zhuandao and Zhuanwu both hailed from
Southern Fujian (Minnan) and are the first known monks from mainland China to
Zhuandao invited Yuanying, his colleague from his days in Ningbo, to lecture at
Pujue Temple. When they met in Singapore they discussed the restoration of Quanzhou
Kaiyuan Temple.25 Zhuandao whose secular name was Huang is said to have been a
member of the "Purple Cloud" Huang family whose ancestor Huang Shougong had
donated land for the establishment of Kaiyuan monastery during the Tang Dynasty;
Zhuandao had long harbored the wish to restore Quanzhou Kaiyuan. Yuanying and
Zhuandao vowed to restore Quanzhou Kaiyuan, but Yuanying wanted to do more than
revive a home for monks and a place for laypersons to burn incense. Foremost in their
1A%$%) to serve as a home and school for orphans and abandoned children.27
li
   Yu 1997:27.
24
   Yu 1997:25.
25
   Yu 1997:27.
26
   Sizhi, second preface, 2a .
27
   Details about Kaiyuan's Republican era orphanage are taken from two rare documents, the first is written
by Wu Zexu f5v$/li in 1979, Quanzhou Kaiyuan Ertong Jiaoyang Yuan Jianshi ^l§{frrjR!liiJSffiniSi5^
M.JMJ^7tJ[iMWi^^Wi^S. ("A Simple History of Quanzhou Kaiyuan's Children's School and Foster
Care"). This is a typed report hand signed by the author (property of Huang Yushan HzElil). The second is
Ye Qingyan ed. ca. 1929. Quanzhou Kaiyuan cieryuan diyijie baogaoshu TJU'H            f$7t>W^$%M—BUS'S/
M')'\'\3fjhM)L$K>s$~' fiJIx c ? ^ (Report on the first class of students from Quanzhou Kaiyuan's
Compassion for Children School). Quanzhou Kaiyuan: Quanzhou. I was provided a copy of this report by a
monk who had lived at Quanzhou Kaiyuan in the 1980s. A recent article of relevance is Wang Rongguo
3 3 F S 2008. " Master Yuanying and the Kaiyuan Compassion for Children School" (Yuanyingfashiyu
Quanzhou Kaiyuan si cieryuan, W^/&^Mi'\'^\MS^k^^/&^M'\''^7\M)\M>                  In Zhongguo fojiao shilun
^ I M ^ i ^ E I M f c t i & b y Rongguo Wang. Religion and Culture Press: Beijing. Pp. 254-270.
Gushan and had been inspired to establish an orphanage and school by his successful
Ningbo Buddhist Orphanage where students were taught literary arts and practical arts in
order to make them educated and productive members of society. Yuanying seized this
opportunity to establish a second orphanage, this one in his home province of Fujian.28
Yuanying invited Zhuandao and Zhuanwu to Ningbo to study the orphanage and school
that had been established there.29 In the fall of 1924, Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu
met in Quanzhou to make preparations for the orphanage.30 Tradition holds that three
days after these monks had arrived at Kaiyuan in lunar September of 1924 Kaiyuan's
peach trees bloomed red lotus blossoms. This event has been memorialized by four
large characters that now appear on the wall to the west of the main gate: Taolian yingrui
dormitories were constructed and the opening ceremony of the Kaiyuan school and
orphanage was held on the day of the Mid-Autumn Festival, August 15* of the lunar
calendar, in 1925.
The school and orphanage was established out of a wish to benefit less fortunate
children and was called the Compassion for Children School (cieryuan W.%¥K).
Buddhist compassion with concern for the national public good, not only in Fujian, but
In its first year of operation, the home and school had forty-three residents, the
first headmaster (yuanzhang PJGJI) was Zhuandao and the co-vice-headmasters were
Yuanymg and Zhuanwu Kaiyuan's Compassion for Children School (Cieryuan) served
as a foster home and residential school for orphans and abandoned children Orphaned
boys between the ages of 7 and 13 were accepted on the condition that their relatives
were not able to take care of them and that they were in good health Throughout the
history of the orphanage it was always home to a greater number of residents than there
were monks at the monastery In 1927, just two years after opening, the number of
during the Republican period the Kaiyuan school and orphanage will be examined here at
some length
Located in the western part of the monastery between the west pagoda and the
ancient mulberry tree, the school offered a regular elementary school curriculum (literary
arts and math) as well as instruction in applied arts such as sewing, carpentry, bamboo
crafts and gardening Soon after the opening of the school the three masters were all
   A theme that emerges here, and a thread that connects the Republican period restoration with the end of
the Qing dynasty, is the theme of the orphan The last known Qmg dynasty leader of Kaiyuan is said to
have been the seven year old orphan girl, who, having been taken m by Kaiyuan, went on to become the
abbess Kaiyuan took on a new role which spans the late Qmg and Republican periods, periods of turmoil,
loss of life and the orphaning of children—that of a home for the orphaned
34
   Wang 2008 257
35
   The ratio of orphans to monks could be a reflection of any number of factors from the era's drive towards
secularization to the turmoil of the times and the attendant demand for able-bodied soldiers, trends which
both reduced the number of men becoming monks
36
   Headmaster Ye left to collect funds from the trustees abroad When he did so his duties were assumed by
Wu Liangcai'fiiSS'fS^Tis who served as acting headmaster until Mr Ye's return Mr Ye remained
headmaster until he left for Shanghai to collect funds in 1946 (Wu Zexu 1979 4 )
hired to serve as headmaster and held this position from 1928 to 1946;38 from this time
on, the acting school principal was always a layperson rather than a monk. The monks, it
seems, served as the inspiration for the founding and goals of the charity, the providers of
land on which to build dorms, classrooms and offices, and the fundraisers while the day
A constant concern and reality for the charity was the need for funding. While
money was raised locally and in Zhejiang, most money came from overseas Chinese
raise funds, the overseas Chinese communities offered to establish boards of trustees
(dongshihui H ^ H ' ) to organize fundraising efforts for the charity; they insisted that
master Yuanying focus his efforts on teaching the dharma rather than fundraising.39 In
this way boards of trustees were established in Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines and
Burma in addition to the local board of directors in Quanzhou. There were also boards of
and Xiamen.
37
   In 1928, Zhuandao left for Singapore with Li Juncheng ^f^P;where they established the Buddhist
Layperson's Society ifojiao jushihn fjftl&^lubfcfy and the Chinese Buddhist Association of Singapore
(zhonghuafojiaohui]:ip:^iM^t^iM^)            which Zhuandao led for two terms Zhuandao later moved to
Penang where he established the Mysterious Fragrance Forest Dizang Temple (miaoxianghn dizang si
#j^#t!si^F) and spent the rest of his life traveling throughout Singapore and Malaysia working to spread
the dharma (Information from the Quanzhou Buddhist Museum at Kaiyuan monastery)
38
   Mr. Ye went abroad to collect additional funds in 1927, at that time his duties were assumed by Wu
Liangcai iS^M, who served as acting headmaster until Mr Ye's return Mr Ye remained headmaster until
he left for Shanghai to collect funds in 1946 (ibid)
39
   Ye ca 1929 2
expatriates in Singapore, the Philippines and Melaka and Penang in Malaysia which
helped support the activities of the Kaiyuan orphanage and school. Singapore's board of
trustees had twenty-two members and Melaka had sixteen trustees on their board while
composed of monks and laypersons.40 The money that was collected in Melaka was
Funds were also raised domestically from local sources as well as in Shanghai and
Ningbo through specially established travel associations.41 With some of the funds
collected income-generating farms and houses were purchased at three locations in the
                   2
Quanzhou area.
The school and orphanage enjoyed about ten years of relative stability before
disruptions brought on by war with Japan. During the second Sino-Japanese War (1937-
1945) the school was forced to continually relocate due to disruptions and the threat of
danger43 and in 1941 the name was changed to the School and Foster Care Center
(Jiaoyangyuan fj(#|^). When the Japanese reached Southeast Asia, the Melaka rubber
   The names of the members of these boards both in Quanzhou and abroad are recorded in the report by
Wu Zexu, see Wu Zexu 1979 2-3
41
   The associations were named the Travel to Shanghai to Raise Funds Association luhu mujuan
weiyuanhuijM^^^^&lMf^^^s               and the Travel to Ningbo To Raise Funds Association lilyong
mujuan        weiyuanhutJS^^^^^^fWM^^^^s
42
   Wu Zexu 1979 4. Income-generating property had long been the primary source of income for Kaiyuan
as it had for other Chinese monasteries throughout much of Chinese history.
43
   During the Japanese war the school (and the orphans) were first moved in succession to Jinjiang River
atyWUtfifi/Wfi-MTfi, Xiajm village®#M, GaotianHH, Shikeng5±/C and Xiao Xuefeng'hiPt in
Nan'an before hostilities ended and they could then be moved back to Kaiyuan where it has remained until
the 1990s During the war classes were still held, but not in the applied arts. Wu Zexu 1979- 4-5
with Japan, travel between Quanzhou and Southeast Asia resumed and, in 1948,
headmaster Gong Nianping J I ^ ^ P traveled to the Philippines to collect funds for the
While the establishment of the orphanage and school was the most prominent
action of the trio of monks at the head of the Republican period revival, it was only part
of the overall project of restoration that they undertook. After the establishment of the
school for orphans, Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu turned to Huang family ancestors
to seek support for the restoration of the temple buildings. It is an ancient custom in
China to restore monasteries established by one's ancestors 5and Kaiyuan had often
benefited from the assistance of members of the Huang family—the Republican period
proved no different. Yuanying and Huang Sunzhe H # ^ asked Senior Huang Zhutang
M^M. to write them a letter of introduction with which they traveled to the islet of
Gulangyu g£?lllll% which lies off the island of Xiamen to meet three members of Huang
family, Huang Zhongxun JtfHJH, Huang Yizhu H ^ c l i and Huang Xiulang M^M to
urge them to contribute to the restoration of Kaiyuan monastery which had been founded
on land donated by their eminent ancestor Huang Shougong. As the preface to the 1927
        Mr. Zhongxun, with a penchant for poetry and literature, already had a
        literary relationship with master Yuanying so he took the lead in offering
        to rebuild the Dharma Hall (fa tang) with his brother Zhongzan W Ht ...
44
   Upon his departure, Wu Zuxu became headmaster remained so until 1966 when the Cultural Revolution
disrupted the school's activities
45
   SeeGernet 1995:283.
Thus, Yuanying's trip to Gulangyu secured funding for the rebuilding of the
Dharma Hall as well as for renovations to the east and west pagodas by members of the
Huang family. All projects began in 1925 under the supervision of the engineer Fu
The Dharma Hall, which had last been repaired during the Ming Dynasties and
was in need of replacement, was rebuilt as a concrete two story building with a second
floor Sutra Library (zangjing ge WM-M). The Hall of Merit (gongde tang, 5b#<^) was
built at the same time as the Dharma Hall to which it practically adjoins. It was built to
house the spirit tablets of the temple's past masters and lay patrons. Amidst all of this
activity in 1925, Kaiyuan's ancient mulberry tree was struck by lightning and split into
three. A rock was placed under one section to support it; on this rock was carved "This
tree bloomed lotus blossoms in the second year of Chuigong (686); this support, allied
With the construction of the Compassion for Children School, the Dharma Hall
and the Hall of Merit as well as the renovation of the two pagodas, Kaiyuan monastery
was officially restored and again one of the premier Buddhist monasteries in Fujian with
   Sizhi p2.2a-b.
47
   It was during this two year period, 1925 to 1927 that the Kaiyuan monastery was visited by Gustav Ecke
and the great scholar of Buddhism Paul Demieville. The two first learned about Kaiyuan, and in particular
its Song Dynasty pagodas when they were living at Xiamen University which had been founded in 1921 on
land that had once belonged to Nanputuo Monastery on the island of Xiamen. Huang Yizhu lUSSft a
Huang family descendent assisted the scholars by funding the erection of scaffolding around the pagodas
which enabled photographs to be taken of the sculptures on the upper stories. The abbot of Nanputuo
Xingyuan HM provided them with identities for the sculptures on the pagodas that Demieville used as his
base for research (Ecke and Demieville 1935- vin) Through the publication of their book in 1935 detailed
information about Kaiyuan's pagodas became available to the world for the first time.
48
   Cishu shenglian chuigong ernian, Zhihng wuhuai yiquan qitiansHM^^&^^i            5?§^3fcRifc3S^?c
generously contributed to the effort, donated additional funds for the re-carving of
Zhongxun initiated and funded this project, providing his personal copy of the Ming
dynasty text. Mr. Wu Hengchun H 3 ? # of Fujian's Gutian "S" EB was asked to write a
preface to this new edition which appears just after the 1643 preface by Yuanxian. Other
than this brief preface, which outlines the restoration work led by Yuanying, the Ming
Dynasty record was left unaltered in the new carving, which was completed in lunar
August of 1927; it was the same year that Nationalist forces led by Chiang Kai-shek M-JY
5(1887-1975) unified China after fighting warlords in the North and making an alliance
with the Communist Party. The following year, responding to complaints by Buddhists
and others about the seizure of temple property, Nationalists issued the "Standards for
distinguish religion from superstition, protecting the former and calling for the abolition
of the latter. The shrines and temples that were to be respected were the established
beneficial to humanity such as Confucius and Guandi (heroic general of the Three
Kingdoms Period and a popular deity). Two categories of deities were to be abandoned:
1. the old [pre-scientific] deities (gusheri) who were now obsolete such as gods of the sun
and moon and 2. the lesser spirits and goblins (yinci) such as animal spirits.50 These
efforts were in line with China's project of modernity to promote scientific understanding
and eliminate superstitious beliefs while maintaining a space for private religious belief.
49
     Duara 1995:108-109; Ashiwa 2009: 51.
50
     Ashiwa 2009:51; Duara 1995:109.
justifying the destruction of all religion " 51 Kaiyuan was positioned to benefit from the
standards, nonetheless, because the mam criteria for protection were "historical
importance and scientific significance"52—Kaiyuan had both and was left unmolested
In 1933, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu invited Nanputuo abbot Zhuanfeng $£il$ (1879-
1952) to serve as Kaiyuan's abbot Zhuanfeng, who had established the Minnan Buddhist
Seminary at Nanputuo in Xiamen where he then served as principal, accepted the offer
He is said to have reinforced the monastic rules (M.M.MM) and inculcated more reverent
sutra recitation (^fcilifif $$) at Kaiyuan 53 Monks at Kaiyuan during this period would
have followed the monastic precepts much as they do today, rising at four, engaging in
daily morning and evening services, the core religious practice at monasteries like
Kaiyuan with no communal Chan practice The religious practice of such monks is Pure
Land recitation A monk at Kaiyuan today described it as being "Chan m name, Pure
In addition to sutra recitation, monks would take communal vegetarian meals and
live a generally spartan life, wearing robes and maintain a shaved head Zhuanfeng led
1931 and 1936 One may imagine how these grand affairs were carried out by reading a
51
     Ashiwa 2009 51
52
     Ashiwa 2009 51
5
     Yu 2005 197 I read Yu as saying that ordination ceremonies were held twice in each year at both
locations (^ g s s s i u 11 m Ttmm^              mm M)
Brian J Nichols                      CHAPTER THREE The Twentieth Centurv                               152
Longchang Temple PHH^F,55 The vitality expressed in these developments (holding
monastic life) helped to put Kaiyuan back on the map as a place of Buddhist practice in
the South. In the 1930's it attracted master Hongyi (&—, 1880-1942), one of the most
may have been attracted to Quanzhou Kaiyuan in part by its Nanshan vinaya ordination
platform and its reputation as a Buddhist country (foguo), the epithet attributed to Zhuxi,
which hangs in Kaiyuan's main gate and main hall written in the hand of Hongyi.
Hongyi was steeped in art and culture and a accomplished composer, painter,
actor, writer, calligrapher, painter and seal carver. His secular name, under which he had
become famous before becoming a monk, was Li Shutong ^ ^ I R I . He was one of the
first Chinese to study Western painting in Japan and one of the founders of Western-style
theater in China. He was responsible for helping spread Western music in China as well
as an advocate of Western-style print making and the use of nude models in art
instruction. Songs he wrote such as songbie JsljjlJ ("Farewell") remain popular in China
to this day. Although he did not write many poems, his style of calligraphy is uniquely
his own and widely respected. Many of the oil paintings he painted before becoming a
monk were donated to the Beijing Academy of Art (now called Central Academy of Fine
Art zhongyang meishu xueyuan ^ i f e H ^ ^ l ^ u ) and many of his seal carvings are stored
at the Xiling Seal Carving Society (xiling yinshe Hi^EPli) in Hangzhou. He stopped
55
   Pnp-Moller 1937 298-339 Pnp-Moller's account includes descriptions of the ceremonies taken from
the diary of a participant, an account of the ritual procedures and the three types of precepts (novice, monk
or bhikkhu, and bodhisattva), also included are images of the ceremony as well as reproductions of
ordination certificates
many talents and virtues, a true Renaissance man of the twentieth century.56
Master Hongyi was invited to stay at Kaiyuan by Zhuandao in 1933. It was at this
time that Zhuandao and Zhuanwu had invited master Zhuanfeng, then abbot of Nanputuo,
to serve as the abbot of Kaiyuan.57 This initial two month visit was the first of many by
master Hongyi. Hongyi, as a master of the vinaya school, would have been pleased to
find Quanzhou Kaiyuan's Nanshan vinaya ordination platform (the Amrita Ordination
Platform) in an excellent state of preservation. Perhaps it was this that inspired him to
in May of 1933. The school was established in the rooms of the Venerated Site Cloister
(zunsheng yuan) which stood behind Kaiyuan's ancient mulberry and to the left of the
Dharma Hall. Hongyi gathered students and scholars and lectured on the Nanshan vinaya
using copies of the vinaya he had brought from Japan.5 These studies were published by
master Hongyi, who was a prolific writer of texts elucidating Buddhist teachings.
Hongyi's focus on the Nanshan vinaya and the establishment of this study institute at
Kaiyuan were remarkable developments in Chinese Buddhism which hadn't seen such
   A fine essay on Master Hongyi has been written by Raoul Birnbaum entitled "Master Hongyi looks back:
a 'modern man' becomes a monk in twentieth-century China " It may be found in Steven Heine and Charles
Prebish (eds ) 2003 Buddhism in the Modern World New York Oxford University Press
57
   M\$M±W%k, p. 27, See also Yu 2005 197
58
   He Mianshan jSJ^lil 2000. "Jindai sida gaoseng yu fujian fojiao jfiftM^Wf§-^IM#&!fc"(Four
Contemporary Eminent Monks of Fujian Buddhism") Fayin vol 1, p. 11
   Wang Hanfeng 2001a "Sanzong rongguan yi hi weizhong ^.7KH£J/J VXWJBM." Fujian fojiao ^a^.\%%.
vol l,p 20
personal attendant and never left his side. Miaolian began his study of Buddhism at
at the age of 18. He took refuge under master Riguan 0 M and between 1933 and 1935
he became a fully ordained monk at Guoqing Temple Hyff # on Mount Tiantai, Zhejiang
Land master Yinguang tfl% (1860-1940). In 1937 he left Zhanshan Temple ffidj# in
Qingdao, Shandong to be near master Hongyi and came to be his personal attendant and
remained as such until master Hongyi's death in 1942. In Quanzhou Hongyi divided
much of his time between Kaiyuan and Chengtian monasteries. Hongyi's time in
Quanzhou has left its mark on Fujian Buddhism and left a powerful impression on those
who personally met him. He also left behind many pieces of calligraphy in his distinctive
hand, the most celebrated at Kaiyuan being the couplet of Zhu Xi describing Quanzhou
as a Buddhist kingdom. Miaolian became Hongyi's close friend and confidant and at the
end of his life Hongyi would leave all of his belongings to Miaolian's care. Master
Hongyi wrote: "At the time of my death and afterwards my person and effects, I leave in
the hands of Miaolian. No one else is to interfere [with Miaolian's charge of this
responsibility]."61 On lunar September 1st, 1942, three days before his death, Hongyi
wrote his final four characters, beixin jiaoji Mffi&.M ("sorrow and joy mixed") and
60
   This Miaolian is not to be confused with the Miaolian mentioned earlier, abbot of Fuzhou's Gushan and
the earliest monk known to travel from China to Southeast Asia m modern times.
61
     £T-*^ff, \%&tm,ffifo&is,wftw>mm-A&.%, ^ A ^ M A , w^num sealed with
Hongyi's chop, dated October 7th, lunar August 28th. Miaolian (ed ), Quanzhou Kaiyuansi
age of 63, leaving all of his belongings to his attendant Miaolian. Hongyi's remains were
cremated at Chengtian monastery and distributed among two major relic stupas in
calligraphy and so on. Through his efforts to preserve and display the artifacts and
preserve and display Kaiyuan's cultural treasures during the Maoist period.
Had the times been different perhaps a dramatic revival of Kaiyuan may have
developed under the influence of the charismatic Renaissance man and Buddhist master
Zhuanfeng. As it was, however, decades of turmoil lay ahead and any lasting revival
monastery, Mao Zedong (1893-1976) and his followers retreated from the then superior
forces of Chiang Kai-shek (Jiang Jieshi MJX^i) on what would later be called the Long
March and considered a defining moment in the development of the Communist Party
that would go on to rule China. July 7, 1937 brought the Marco Polo Bridge Incident,
which marked beginning of war with Japan. Nanjing was taken and ravaged in
62
   The first relic pagoda was built where Hongyi passed away m Xiaoshan congzhu <hli|JAtT(formerly the
site of one of Neo-Confucian master Zhuxi's schools) in 1943; it was lost during the Cultural Revolution.
A second relic pagoda was built for him at Quanzhou's Mount Qmgyuan in 1952 and rebuilt in 1962 (Luo
S h a z h o u ^ ^ ^ - 2001: 67-68.).
Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor in 1941 and surrendered in 1945 after the devastation of
Hiroshima and Nagasaki by atomic bombs. With the Japanese surrender and the defeat of
the Guomindang, Mao Zedong established the People's Republic of China on Oct. 1st,
1949.
My sources indicate that there were about thirty monks at Kaiyuan during the war
with Japan. I have been told that three bombs were dropped on the monastery at the time,
but that only one exploded, spreading shrapnel that caused one of the columns of the
Dharma Hall to shift from its base and left several pock marks in three of the columns—
whatever damage was sustained it was repaired in the early 1950s and doesn't appear to
have been particularly serious. Graffiti inside the west pagoda indicates the presence of
soldiers at Kaiyuan. Life at the monastery was disturbed, but it was never abandoned.
Master Guangjing /"""^(d. 1998) was a native of Xianyou in Fujian and spent
time at Xuefeng monastery in the 1930s. 64 After the war with Japan he served as the
communist victory, these two monks, Guangjing and Guangyi, fled to Southeast Asia
after being advised to do so by venerable Xuyun; the two dharma brothers fled to Hong
Kong and then to Singapore.65 One of their dharma brothers, Guang'an J°"~;£c (d. 1992)
63 One of the undetonated missiles used to be kept at Kaiyuan but it was moved at some unspecified time
(oral interviews) I told the monks that they could put it on display as evidence of a kind of miracle similar
to a missile I had seen at the famous Cathedral of San Lorenzo in downtown Genoa, Italy but they saw no
sense in displaying artillery at a monastery
64
   His remains are marked by a stone stupa behind the Patriarch's Hall at Kaiyuan and his photo is
enshrined m the Hall of Patriarchs
63
   Interview with Daoxing 2009
Maoist period.
With Communist victory and the establishment of the People's Republic of China
in 1949, atheism became the state-sponsored ideology and policies were implemented to
restrict religious practice and especially religious propagation. In 1951 the Bureau of
Religious Affairs {zongjiao shiwuju ^.^M-%-M) was established in Beijing with the job
of enforcing State religious policy which effectively meant monitoring and controlling
religious figure appointed to office without their permission.66 The China Buddhist
work as an intermediary between the Bureau of Religious Affairs and Buddhists and
assist in the implementation of State religious policy. It must be stressed that this
Buddhist association was different in purpose from the early associations established
during the Republican Period, which were established by monks to protect the interest of
monks and monasteries. The Communist period CBA, on the other hand, was established
by the State to promote the State's socialist agenda. The same year that the CBA was
formed in Beijing, a branch office was established at Quanzhou Kaiyuan temple, the
                                                                CO
foxueyuan "t4 ffl^^l^) at Beijing's Fayuan Temple l/iM^F which became the only
66
    See Welch 1972' 30-35 for more on the founding and early directives of the Bureau of Religious Affairs
67
  See Welch 1961.5-9 for more details on the formation and duties of the CBA
68
   Interview with Daoxmg at Qmgyuan shan (July 2009)
to whatever Buddhist work they may have done upon graduation were expected to serve
the interests of the Party.70 It was these monks, who had been sufficiently indoctrinated,
that staffed offices of the CBA71 and showed visitors around Buddhist sites during the
The effect of the new policies on religion during the 1950s was nothing short of
the decimation of the Chinese Sangha.72 The major sources of income for monasteries
had been income from the properties they owned, donations from the wealthy and income
from the performance of rituals. By 1960 all of these sources of income had effectively
disappeared through state-orchestrated action. The Land Reform Act of 1950 called for
the confiscation of lands held by Buddhist monasteries as well as Daoist and Confucian
temples.73 The government took over the farms and their associated houses that Yuanying,
Zhuandao and Zhuanwu had purchased and were being used to fund the operation of the
Kaiyuan's orphanage and school. Kaiyuan was allowed, however, to continue to earn
interest from these properties, a concession that was lost with the start of the Cultural
Revolution in 1966.7 Kaiyuan had already lost revenue from its Melaka rubber
plantation during Japan's invasion of Southeast Asia; with the loss of income-generating
farmland in Quanzhou after 1949, Kaiyuan relied even more exclusively on its
69
   It had graduated 361 students as of 1965 (Yu 1971:55) and expenses were paid by the CBA (Welch
1961:4).
70
   Yu 1971:55.
71
   Yu 1971:56.
72
   For more details on Communist policies and their effects on the Sangha during this period see Welch
1972.42-81.
7j
   Welch 1961. 2. At the same time, monks were allotted the same amount of land provided peasants but
they could they must cultivate it themselves and not managed it, as they had in the past, as landlords. For
this reason many monks simply returned to lay life.
74
   WuZexu 1979.4.
dramatic loss of land during the sixteenth century and the development of transnational
networks and the loss of monks to overseas communities parallels the early Qing
the orphanage and school was removed from monastic administration and placed under
the oversight of two new bureaus—the school operated under the jurisdiction of the
Bureau of Education (jiaoyuju t&W jij) while the foster home was placed under the
were removed from administrative responsibility and control, the same lay persons
remained involved and committed to the success of the charity as they had throughout
From its founding in 1925 up to 1966 the number of residents of the orphanage
increased every year. 77 At the start of the Cultural Revolution there were more than 1000
students being educated at the Kaiyuan school.78 In 1966, the Cultural Revolution was
unleashed and religious edifices across China were targeted for vandalism, destruction
and occupation. The name board of the orphanage was smashed and in 1969 the Kaiyuan
orphanage was officially dissolved and the orphans were moved to the Quanzhou
Prosperity Home {Quanzhou furen yuan 7^H?§APIc). The Kaiyuan School and Foster
Care Center became the Quanzhou East Wind Elementary School {Quanzhou dongfeng
75
   See chapter two.
76
   WuZexu 1979:4.
77
   Wu Zexu 1979:5.
78
   WuZexu 1979:5.
individuals including Wang Xianbin JL^M and Lai Hanxing W^5LT^ served as keepers
{zhuchi 3iW) of the boarding school while no one was allowed, formally, to serve as
principal.
Although the Kaiyuan orphanage had officially ceased to function, the residential
school system remained in place, though removed from monastic affiliation. In 1977,
following the death of Mao, Kaiyuan's school began to function again and Huang Boxian
Mi& J 5 became the first post-Mao principal.79 By 1979 there were 486 resident students
distributed among eleven grades with a total of nineteen teachers. In December of 1979
the Board of Directors was reconvened and the school was renamed the Quanzhou
Kaiyuan School and Foster Home. The name change was approved by the Bureau of
Education and went into effect on January 1st of 1980. Thus the orphanage and school
that had been established fifty-five years before but had been officially converted to an
elementary school during the Cultural Revolution was reconstituted in post-Mao China as
a foster home and school. Under PRC law, however, religious institutions are not allowed
to operate schools for general education and so what was once the school and orphanage
established by Yuanying and Zhuandao in the 1920s had become a school administered
As the above developments suggest, Kaiyuan's monks met with a set of pressures
that caused their already small numbers to fall as did the number of monks throughout the
country. Monks in China were forced to participate in productive labor and many
79
   In 1979 Wu Zexu was asked to serve as honorary principal.
80
   According to one informant, the school became known as a home for handicapped children (Kaizhi
xiaoxue JFH? / h'r : ) during the eighties; but I was not able to confirm this.
pressures monks returned to lay life en masse throughout the 1950s and vacant
monasteries were converted to schools, factories or other uses just as they had been
                                   Q 1
during the Republican Period. Kaiyuan's monks dwindled in number, but it was never
fully abandoned and Miaolian was named abbot in 1953.82 During the fifties and early
sixties crops were grown in small plots around the monastery. Perhaps as many as twenty
to thirty monks tended the monastic plots which were separate from the plots of the
school and orphanage.83 These developments reflected the policy requiring monks to be
engaged in forms of productive labor and prohibited them from performing income-
generating ceremonies. The requirement that monks be involved in productive labor was
a one of the factors that encouraged monks throughout China to return to lay life.84 Apart
from tending their own plots monks were also sent to work outside the monastery;
Guang'an was sent to feed pigs as Chengtian Monastery, others collected firewood or
                                               Of
and devotion was radically undermined by Communist policies in the 1950s and
earlyl960s another identity was systematically encouraged, that of a site of historical and
cultural relics. I call this the Maoist period curatorial turn. Traditional sources of
monastic income were severely restricted or eliminated by Communist policy, but the
81
   Yu 1971- 53. See also Welch 1972: 51.
82
   Rong 1999:43. A former student/resident of Kaiyuan's school has told me that there remained monks at
Kaiyuan throughout the fifties and early sixties. He was too young then to have a clear memory of that
time, but suggested there may have been about thirty monks during that period I also received other
information which suggests this to be quite plausible
83
   Interview with former student, 2009
84
   Welch 1961 2
85
   Guang'an zhanglao yongsu jiman ji M S - f l ^ / K - S & E l s ^ 2003: 3 (property of Huang Yushan)
of historic and cultural value was undertaken with a zeal not seen for generations.
Between 1951 and 1958 dozens of monasteries and pagodas, including Kaiyuan, were
repaired with state funds. Welch reports, "In all over a hundred odd monasteries and
pagodas in China were repaired, mostly between 1951 and 1958." The temples restored
included the Lama Temple (yonghe gong ?|^Dn) in Beijing, Lingym Temple in
Pure Land, restored for $110,000 from 1954-56), Xuanzang's Dayan pagoda in Xi'an
(restored for $20,000) and Mount Wutai temples ($400,000 spent between 1951-59).87
These monasteries were allowed to retain a small population of monks who had been
politically educated and were well-informed about state religious policy; in addition, they
typically housed branch offices of the CBA, such as the case with Quanzhou Kaiyuan.88
Why did the government take such an interest in Buddhist historical monuments
and allow some of them to retain small groups of monks? Reports of the day described
the protection and restoration of Buddhist sites as an effort to protect the "people's art."89
Created by human toil, they deserved preservation as a display of national and cultural
pride and evidence of the feudal past through which China had passed on its way to the
enlightened future. In the 1950s, this development may be seen as part of a movement
to create museums to memorialize artifacts and events of national pride and document the
86
   Welch 1972: 150. This figure is also maintained by Yu 1971 54.
87
   Figures on restoration and preservation work collected by Welch from Chinese and Japanese reports of
the day (Welch 1972: 147-149
88
   The national office of the CBA was and still remains at Beijing's Guangji monastery f~ ffc^
89
   Yul971:55.
90
  Welch also notes that as material historical artifacts Chinese Marxists thought they should be analyzed to
understand the stage of history to which they belong (Welch 1972. 145)
Related to building a national identity, the preservation of religious sites was also
motives, will be dealt with in greater detail in chapter seven The diplomatic deployment
of Buddhist sites to entertain foreign visitors was an effort, not only to display Chinese
history and culture, but also to demonstrate to visiting dignitaries from other Asian
countries, especially those sharing a tradition of Buddhism, that China maintained a long
tradition of Buddhism and provided a place for it in the new China During the first
decade of the People's Republic of China, delegations traveled to and from China and the
countries of India, Japan, Burma, Thailand, North Vietnam, Sri Lanka and Nepal.
Buddhist sites and often made to believe that religion enjoyed the protection of the State
Buddhist visitors to Beijing, for example, would be shown the Lama Temple, Guangji
Temple f^^^F(home office of the CBA) and Fayuan Temple (home of the Buddhist
Seminary) and leave with an impression that Buddhism in China was flourishing when in
Why was Beijing eager to project an image of protecting Buddhism to its Asian
neighbors'? It should be recalled that religion as a concern of the Party falls under the
religious groups and artists under the banner and goals of Communism. Using Buddhism
as a bridge between China and other countries with Buddhist history is, in a sense, the
notion of a united front extended beyond the borders of China to Asia at large. In other
After the founding of the People's Republic of China it quickly became evident
that Buddhism had a past that the State was willing to protect, but that as a living religion
example of the forced curatorial turn in Maoist Era Chinese Buddhism. In 1952, Kaiyuan
received 30,000 RMB of state funds for restoration and preservation work (Xiamen's
Nanputuo monastery ^f I? PS ^f, by comparison, received 1,000 RMB the same year).93
Kaiyuan had suffered neglect during war with Japan and its major halls were restored
with this money. Part of these funds was used to carry out minor repairs on the east and
west pagodas and the building of low stone fencing around them. A stele was erected
near the east pagoda commemorating the history and repair of the pagodas in the summer
Department (^'HTtfltijtJI]). The receipt of these funds, the restoration work managed
by the state rather than the monastery and the establishment of the Quanzhou Heritage
  For more analysis of the diplomatic uses of Buddhism m this period see Welch 1972: 169-230 and for
accounts of some of the diplomatic uses of Buddhism in this period see Bush 1970-314-317; 335-338.
"Welch 1972.425.
was charged with the study and protection of Kaiyuan's cultural relics. Members of the
institute produced minor studies and reports on the temple's history in their effort to
catalogue its historical relics. Between 1958 and 1960 the heritage management
committee oversaw the painting of the main hall and main gate, the rebuilding of
Kaiyuan's worshipping pavilion {baiting) adjoining the main gate, repaired the corridors
stretching along the main courtyard and improved landscaping around the pagodas.95
These efforts are reminiscent of developments during the Yuan and Ming dynasties to
glorify Kaiyuan's past and improve the monastic grounds for visitors.
(shengji wenwu baohu danwei ^ ^RjC§fyi%ffi ?$•&) by the Fujian Provincial government.
This designation was made in response to a directive issued by the State Council in 1961
published a detailed report on the temple's many properties of cultural heritage entitled
Fujian's Quanzhou Kaiyuan Temple (fg^TjUtl JfjG^F), reflecting research that was
Culture (jinjiang zhuanshu wenhuaju tfH^r H^tttiM) and the Quanzhou Maritime
   Holmes Welch noted the Communist period trend towards preservation. See Welch 1972:145-168. See
also Bush 1970:326-329.
95
   Fujiansheng wenguanhui gongzuo zu 1962: 2-3.
the cultural artifacts of the temple such as when buildings were first established and most
recently restored. In other words, it functioned as a report on the history and cultural
relics of the monastery and contained no material about the living religious traditions;
thus reflecting the state's interest in cultural preservation and material history.
It was during this period that Kaiyuan took on a new role as a preserve of not only
its own cultural properties, but of the cultural heritage of the city of Quanzhou. In 1953 a
dharani pillar dating from 854 was moved to Kaiyuan from where it had been found
under the draw bridge of Quanzhou's old western gate.97 This is the first known modern
instance of an off-site relic being moved to Kaiyuan in order to protect it, display it and,
at the same time, enhance the property of Kaiyuan monastery as a preserve of cultural
heritage. These instances would continue and multiply as the years passed and Kaiyuan
became established as a trove of historic artifacts from the city of Quanzhou. The
jurisdiction over such items and facilitated their transfer to the monastic grounds where
they could protect and study them. Daoxing has said that innumerable cultural properties
from other temples in Quanzhou were moved to Kaiyuan during this period. Most of
these items were placed in the two story building near the back of the central axis of the
monastery, directly behind the hall of the ordination platform. Smaller and more valuable
artifacts from Quanzhou and Kaiyuan were stored in the sutra library (second floor) and
A prominent Qing dynasty artifact that one finds in the main courtyard of the
monastery today is a stele inscribed with a poem in the Kangxi Emperor's calligraphy.
This stele was recently moved from behind the Dharma Hall where it was located in the
1950s to the front of Kaiyuan's courtyard where it sits today. This stele provides no
made in 1702. The stele makes no mention of Kaiyuan monastery and it is appears to be
one of the artifacts moved to Kaiyuan in the 1950s along with many other steles from
other locations in Quanzhou in order to preserve it. Another object that remains at
Kaiyuan is a stone statue of Guanyin bodhisattva dating to 909; it was found during a
construction project and moved to Kaiyuan in 1964." Many other historical artifacts
would be moved in the early seventies, including a huge Song dynasty boat and a
Concentrating the cultural properties of the city in this one location was a way to
properties and were naturally selected as the venues to collect, study and display China's
imperial heritage. The old Confucian temple of Xi'an, for example, had begun to collect
stone stele inscriptions during the Song dynasty and today has added buildings for the
display of statuary and other antiquities so that it is now one of the important museums in
Xi'an known as the forest of steles (beilin $ £ # ) . Another example of a temple which
98
  Interview with Daoxing 2009, Quanzhou.
99
  Today this statue remains inside the hall of the land and water temple (shuilv si) behind the new guest
hall. Information on dates are taken from a small sign posted above the statue.
Brian J. Nichols                     CHAPTER THREE: The Twentieth Century                                   168
began to accumulate treasures from the surrounding city during the Maoist period is
Shijiazhuang's ^Ml±. Longxing Temple JHT4^F in Hebei.100 Dozens of stone and metal
statues and dozens of stone steles were collected there during the communist period; they
Communist China's diplomatic strategy. As Welch noted, "By 1958 there was at least
one monastic showplace in every major city on the tourist route; and monasteries
elsewhere were repaired if they had significance abroad."101 Quanzhou wasn't on the
standard tourist route, but it possessed a remarkable pair of stone pagodas and was
efforts of Zhuandao and Yuanying), Japan (through Kaiyuan's Qing Dynasty patriarchs of
the Obaku school) and even South India (through the Hindu sculptures incorporated into
the back of the main hall). Kaiyuan monastery, just as it had survived previous campaigns
to limit, restrict or scale back the Sangha, survived the early years of the PRC that
most prominent monastery, by contrast, became a huge pigsty where more than five
hundred pigs were raised from 1961 to 1964.102 The support that Kaiyuan received during
the first decade of the Maoist period was directly connected to the value it possessed as a
site of historic and cultural treasures—this value will be further explored in chapter six.
While it received state funds to restore, catalogue and study its cultural properties,
it also remained the home of a handful of Buddhist monks who served in the office of the
100
     For more on Longxing Temple see Zhang Xiusheng 5 i ^ ^ E . 2000. Zhengding Longxing si IEAEH?PITF.
Beijing : Wenwu chubanshei^ttilT&tt: Xinhua shudian jingxiafJf^EtJEMIS.
10
   ' Welch 1972: 147.
102
     Guang'an zhanglao yongsu jinian ji iltilc-fl^TKS&E^li: 2003: 3 (property of Huang Yushan).
that the handful of monks who remained at Kaiyuan were more involved in maintaining
and improving the grounds and buildings than in other forms of religious cultivation.
Among the monks who remained at Kaiyuan during the Maoist period, there were
Guang'an and master Hongyi's attendant, Miaolian. In 1955, Guang'an, who stayed at
Kaiyuan when his dharma brothers fled to Southeast Asia, planted two bodhi trees at
Kaiyuan.103 They were planted between the main hall and the hall of the ordination
In 1963, venerable Yuanzhou BULH (1909-1997), who split his time between
Putian's Guanghua monastery, Chengtian monastery and Kaiyuan, was invited to assist
Miaolian with the organizing of the Master Hongyi Memorial Hall.105 Under the Maoist
Period curatorial turn, Kaiyuan was not allowed to develop its potential as a training
ground for monks, but it was allowed to improve the grounds and buildings, open a
museum to display artifacts associated with master Hongyi and serve as a showpiece for
the history of Southern Fujian. This is a role that Kaiyuan has maintained down to the
present and it was a status that helped it to survive the Cultural Revolution.
At the end of the 1950s, observers of China had begun to question the future
"We are seeing, I believe, the last twilight of Chinese Buddhism as an organized religion.
The dispersed fragments of its cults and beliefs are beings systematically extirpated
10j
    Some have said the trees were from Xiamen's Nanputuo Monastery, but I haven't been able to confirm
this
104
    Zhang Zhenhao 2003 20-21 They are already many times larger than their mother tree so it is possible
that they are being fed by the "amnta well" beneath the ordination platform.
105
    Puti UJI1 2000 21 The article by Puti contains a biography of Yuanzhuo and an overview of his
accomplishments.
Buddhism in China, we shall perhaps find it still in literature and language, in drama and
the arts."106 When the Cultural Revolution was launched, Wright's predictions seemed
prescient.
The curatorial turn was effectively reversed with launching of the Cultural
or destroyed during the Cultural Revolution; Kaiyuan was the only major monastery to
have survived with its physical structures relatively unscathed. In local literature and
popular opinion, Kaiyuan, Chengtian and Chongfu are Quanzhou's three most important
Buddhist monasteries (san dafosi EL^Zi^^F). Of these three only Kaiyuan retains a full
however, was not guaranteed. Kaiyuan, like other places of worship in Fujian and
throughout China, was threatened by a mob of Red Guards as the Cultural Revolution
swept across China in the fall of 1966. A crowd of youths gathered at Kaiyuan monastery,
as Red Guards did at monasteries and cultural sites throughout China, with the intention
Kaiyuan's dharma hall and sutra library which held innumerable cultural treasures. When
Red Guards approached the hall concerned residents in the neighborhood alerted
In a story that is known throughout Quanzhou, Mayor Wang rushed to the scene
and confronted the growing mob of Red Guards. Standing between the mob of youths
106
      Wright 1959
designation of Kaiyuan as a site of protected cultural heritage issued in 1961 and offered
                                       107
to phone Zhou Enlai if necessary             Beyond this legal appeal, he reached out to the civic
pride of the youths declaring, "Without the east and west pagodas, there is no
Quanzhou " 10 The mayor succeeded so thoroughly in convincing the mob to abandon
their stake on the monastery that several Red Guards who had heard mayor Wang's plea
turned to other youths as they arrived and explained to them Kaiyuan's protected status
In the end, the mob was turned away and Kaiyuan's many historic properties were left
legal authority, personal charisma, revolutionary credibility (he had participated in the
long march) and an effective appeal to civic and cultural pride on the part of the mayor
The monastery was largely spared physical vandalism during the ten years of the
Cultural Revolution, but it is said that gold was removed from the gilded statues
Although, apart from this, the pagodas, statues and major buildings remained unharmed
during the "Ten Year Disaster" from 1966 to 1976, Kaiyuan ceased to exist as a
functioning monastery Chongfu monastery was made into a factory to produce Chinese
medicine and Chengtian monastery was made into a cloth factory As for Kaiyuan,
religious activities were prohibited, monks laicized, statues covered and Kaiyuan
monastery was re-dubbed the "People's Market" (renmin shangchang \^,M^j) The
[Kaiyuan] People's Market was the busiest place in the city—devotional activity ceased
107
    Local legend has it that Mayor Wang actually phoned Zhou Enlai, but the mayor told me that he did not
need to phone Zhou, he only needed to offer to do so if they did not take his word for it
108
    From an interview with Wang Jinsheng, October 25, 2006 at his home in Quanzhou
throughout the grounds, corridors and halls. The ways of the monk were replaced by the
ways of the butcher, the tailor, the barber and the vegetable hawker. The pagodas, halls
and images remained but none of them were allowed to function as they had before.
prayers; only the banter of buying and selling. Instead of the ritual release of life, there
Most of the people old enough to remember the Cultural Revolution are not eager
to talk about Kaiyuan during that period. Those who identify themselves as Buddhists
look back at the period as one of heartbreak. A prominent vegetarian sister (caigu ^
#rj)110 who was a disciple of Hongyi said she refused to visit Kaiyuan when it was a
market; she couldn't bear to see it desecrated much less contribute to its desecration.
Some who were less emotional or guarded about the period have described their visits to
Kaiyuan during the Cultural Revolution: "I went there to shop, eat, get my hair cut and
buy clothes and shoes. There were many shops, you were given a small slip of paper and
informants, the statues in the main hall were covered with cloths and shoes, clothing and
fabrics were for sale where worshippers now chant and circumambulate. Along the two
corridors that flank the main courtyard and main hall one could purchase farming
109
     "Release of life" is a common Buddhist practice in which captive animals such as birds, turtles or fish
are purchased and released.
1,0
     A vegetarian sister (caigu) is a woman who, as the name suggests, does not eat meat and in addition do
not marry (or have such relations as marriage implies) and are devoted to Buddhism They live together,
but unlike nuns however, they do not shave their heads. They are a widespread phenomenon in Southern
Fujian Originally many of them were orphaned girls sent to live with caigu Master Hongyi respected this
tradition and gave them teachings
1
  '' Interview in Quanzhou, 2007.
Goods and services were paid for with vouchers that one purchased from a central kiosk.
A Coterie of Monks
Although the monastery had ceased to function as such, its physical plant
remained largely intact and its abbot, venerable Miaohan, remained living on the grounds
along with a coterie of nine other "laicized" monks. Miaohan, like other monks in China,
was forced to renounce monastic life, grow out his hair and take a wife. Together with a
laicized nun named Yuanying 7CH, he lived in the sutra library, which is completely
surrounded by a large balcony, where he is said to have raised chickens to keep from
starving.112 Apart from Miaolian, there were ten other monks said to have remained
We have already mentioned master Guang'an, in addition there were Yuanzhuo El Jul,,
Altogether there were ten monks and one laicized nun who remained at Kaiyuan
through the Cultural Revolution. There was also a layperson named Wen Meng 3ti£ who
is said to have assisted the monks by preparing meals for them and helping when needed.
According to my informants, these monks were supported during this period a deposit of
money from Singapore laypersons that had been deposited in China during the
112
    Interview in Quanzhou, 2006
113
    In the Guang'an zhanglao yongsi jinianji (2003) Chuanxi wrote that there was a group of thirteen living
at Kaiyuan during the Cultural Revolution; I have gathered the names often monks plus the nun and the
layperson, which makes a total of twelve
114
    1 am indebted to Daoxmg for the names and dates for these monks (interview 2009)
daoliang Jl^-MM)n5
While Miaolian and his wife lived in the sutra library, the other clergy and Wen
Bing lived in the five rooms of the Venerated Site Cloister {zunsheng yuan) and in the six
rooms of the old guest hall (lao ketang ^^•'SL ), which stood immediately to the west of
the hall of the ordination platform and just in front of the hall of merit (gongde tang). The
Venerated Site Cloister had been maintained in one form or another since the founding of
the temple in the Tang dynasty when it served as the living quarters for Kuanghu,
Kaiyuan's founding "abbot." Its most recent incarnation was a two story building that
was demolished by the current abbot in the 90s—there are currently no plans to rebuild it.
There was something befitting and promising that in the darkest hours of the Cultural
Revolution, when some were surmising the end of Chinese religion, monks inhabited
the halls of Kaiyuan during the Cultural Revolution and even more surprised that they
continued to remain vegetarian and, at least according to one source, live off of interest
Quanzhou local and devout lay Buddhist, often told me that Quanzhou Buddhists
continued to worship in secret during the Cultural Revolution. "Could you find incense?"
I asked. "Yes," was the answer I received to this and other similar questions about
lb
   Interview with Daoxing, 2009. Daoxing spoke of the monks as using the interest (lixi) earned by this
deposit, but Huang Yushan says the money was kept in the sutra library and deposited in a local bank in the
1980s; he added that there was not much left.
tradition of religious devotion had survived, in secret, not only in the hearts, but also in
the day to day lives, of at least a few devout individuals and families throughout the
I later determined that Holmes Welch had also learned of Kaiyuan's band of
monks from an overseas informant in 1969. In a 1969 article Welch carefully wrote the
following:
           In one large city on the south-east coast a famous old monastery continues
           to operate. There are 14 monks left (compared to 19 before the Cultural
           Revolution). They wear lay clothes and work on a nearby commune, but
           they eat vegetarian food. The great shrine-hall is locked and no one can
           enter to burn incense, but the other buildings are open. The monastery as a
           community of monks is still in being.116
This "famous old monastery" is none other than our Quanzhou Kaiyuan. This
of Buddhism under Mao which lists the names of thirty-one temples and their population
of monks over time. For 1969 there is only one temple with any monastics listed and that
is Quanzhou Kaiyuan with fourteen monks; those fourteen must be the same as those he
mentioned in his 1969 article. The appendix further suggests that Quanzhou Kaiyuan
was an, if not the, exception to the rule, among famous urban monasteries. The appendix
lists the names of temples, cities and holy mountains along with the number of monastics
said to have been in residence in a given year from the 1930s onward. Of all the temples
(31 in number), mountains and cities listed, only one records a monastic population of
116
      Welch 1969: 135.
discrepancy between the eleven monastics and one lay person I have counted and the
agreement, namely that a small number (between twelve and fourteen) of monastics (and
a dedicated lay person) remained in residence three years into the Cultural Revolution.
More fieldwork is needed to determine if there were monks who remained on site at other
Kaiyuan.: l
Life for Kaiyuan's small band of determined monks was not without added
hardships during the ten year disaster. During the Cultural Revolution not only were
monks not allowed to wear their robes, shave their heads, chant, burn incense or prostrate,
but they were regularly taken out and forced to kneel in public wearing humiliating
placards or paraded around wearing pointed dunce caps. They would have to work during
the day and study Chairman Mao's thought in the evening in the presence of a cadre. All
the land of Kaiyuan was said to have been planted with different vegetables and fruit
including, winter melon, sweet potato, longan (dragon eye), bananas and green
immense pressures, threats and humiliation. History has not yet recorded their courage
Chinese Buddhist history during the Maoist period. The conventional narrative of modem
117
    Welch 1972 418-424 It would now be possible to corroborate some of these numbers through
fieldwork such as I have done m Quanzhou Unfortunately, I have not been able to adequately investigate
the presence of monastics or lack thereof in other parts of China during this period
118
    This was also the case at Tibet's largest monastery of Drepung where monks continued to live
(discreetly) throughout the Cultural Revolution (Goldstein 1998 25)
mainland to Taiwan or Hong Kong.119 When I began to discover that temples and clerics
and traditions had not only been revived in mainland China but had survived from the
1950s into the 90s and beyond, I was surprised. Glimpses that this was the case were
among the impetuses goading me to carry out the investigations constituting this
dissertation.
I have received a detailed account about one of Kaiyuan's monks from this period
from one of his personal acquaintances. The monk in question is Guang'an. He was from
a small village outside of Quanzhou and was abducted at a young age by soldiers to fight
in the civil war. Being the only boy in his family, his parents sold his sister in order to
buy him back. He went on to become a monk and remained a dedicated monk who loved
Buddhism for the remainder of his life. When his dharma brothers left for Southeast Asia,
he remained behind at Kaiyuan and became a victim of the Cultural Revolution. He was
labeled a bad element (huaifenzi f^^-p) 1 2 0 and occasionally paraded around by Red
Guards wearing a dunce hat on his head or a humiliating placard around his neck. He
was required to stay at Kaiyuan where he made a living by raising sheep and small birds
which he could exchange or sell for necessities. When the Cultural Revolution ended he
119
    See for example, Birnbaum 2003, Mitchell 2008: 234; Hanh 1989, Thompson 1996:134-1434, Robinson
et. al 2005 215-218, Fowler and Fowler 2008: 250-253 and Maclnms 1989. Holmes Welch (Welch 1972)
and Richard Bush (Bush 1970: 297-347) provide relatively balanced accounts of Buddhism under
communism from the 1950s to the Cultural Revolution, leaving the future open to question. The only
exception of which I am aware, that is, a text which provides a continuous narrative of continuous monastic
presence from the Republican period, throughout the Cultural Revolution and into the current revival is
study of the Tiexiang nunnery in Chengdu by Esther Bianchi (Bianchi, Ester. 2001. The Iron Statue
Monastery [Tiexiangsi] A Buddhist Nunnery of Tibetan Tradition in Contemporary China Florence.
Instituto Venezia E L'Onente)
120
    A catch all category of the four bad elements (sileifenzi 0 ^ ^ - f 1 ) , the others are landlords, anti-
revolutionanes and wealthy peasants
several periods and the denouement awaits our account of the post-Mao revival Kaiyuan
which follows
identifying rubric In 1974 a Song Dynasty boat was discovered in Quanzhou's Houzhu
                  122
harbor Jn$aM            An important historical find, the boat was excavated and brought to a
piece of land in the northeastern quarter of Kaiyuan monastery After the boat was m
place, a museum was built around it The mam gallery of the museum displays the huge
wooden hull of the boat as well as large ropes and anchors Steps lead to a second floor
where one can view the boat and visit two rooms of display cases containing small
remains of products, coins, mechanical parts, fragments of bamboo sails and so on The
boat museum is a branch of Quanzhou's Museum of Maritime Trade (haijiao guan 03t
t | ) Although it is accessed from Kaiyuan and on land that once belonged to Kaiyuan or
a cloister of Kaiyuan, it is separated from the grounds of Kaiyuan by fencing Locals say
that it is built on the land where Dongbi Temple ^ i t ^ F once stood, home of the famous
The same year that the Song Dynasty boat was transferred to Kaiyuan two other
large historic objects were also moved from other parts of the city The first was an
elaborately decorated wall known as the Qilm Wall MIHH that was moved from its
place in front of the old City God Temple to Kaiyuan Monastery by the [Quanzhou City]
121
   Huang Yushan, interview, 2009
122
   Huang 2005 32-33 See also Pearson, Richard, Li Mm and Li Guo, 2002 "Quanzhou Archaeology A
Brief Review " International Journal of Historical Archaeology 6 1, pp 23-59
built in 1795 and depicts the Qilin in a Qing dynasty style as having the head of a dragon,
scales of a fish, hooves of an ox and tail of a lion.123 The other object was a gate known
miao, JCJ&) which was transferred to the front of Small Kaiyuan temple along with four
Eight cannon from the Ming and Qing dynasties were placed outside Kaiyuan's
front gate; among them was one from 1624 (Ming dynasty) and another from 1842 (Qing
dynasty).124 Perhaps the most unusual item that was transferred to Kaiyuan during the
Maoist period was an unusual stone originally located at Chengtian Monastery which
blossoms. During the Cultural Revolution it was broken into two pieces in an attempt to
reveal that the auspicious image was merely a dye fabrication; the strange coloration,
however, was found to exist into the depths of the stone. Devotees brought the broken
stone to Kaiyuan and, putting it back together, placed it below the ancient mulberry tree
During the Cultural Revolution, Kaiyuan was not merely a market, it remained a
place where cultural artifacts had survived and was the place for other cultural properties
with offices and dorms on the grounds of Kaiyuan and continued to collect and oversee
the protection of Kaiyuan and the other properties brought there from locations around
123
    Huang 2005: 34-35
124
    Sometime during the post-Mao period they were moved to the mam location of the Maritime Museum
125
    Oral history from neighborhood resident Huang Yushan HEELU In 2007 or 2008 the stone was returned
to its original location at Chengtian monastery
Committee, this shop sold rubbings made from the many steles collected. Like Longxmg
Temple, which similarly collected all the steles, statues and other artifacts that had
escaped the first waves of destruction, Quanzhou Kaiyuan became a site where any
historic items might be placed for protection. The curatorial turn then, was a consistent
Maoist period development spanning the early years of the People's Republic and
The early twentieth century was a time of growth and innovation within Chinese
Buddhism that developed in response to modernist threats and pressures. The Kaiyuan
orphanage and school established by Yuanymg and Zhuandao was a form of social
engagement that emerged just as reformers had begun to demand that religions provide
social benefits rather than be a drain on resources.126 Although such developments were
cut short by Communist victory and the Cultural Revolution, they helped lay the
groundwork for the development of a more socially engaged form of Buddhism that has
Another important development during the first decades of the twentieth century
worship were loosened in post-Mao China, Fujian was one of the first provinces to see
the restoration of monastic Buddhism—it was aided in its earliest phases by funding from
the same networks of overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia that funded the Kaiyuan
P6
     Ashiwa 2009 54
sources of income during the first half of the twentieth century, when modernist
reformers seized land holdings and prohibited other forms of generating funds. These
Fujian monks took to the sea and opened new sources of patronage by connecting with
Chinese sangha while singling out select religious sites to serve as historical and cultural
preserves. I have termed this the curatorial turn, a turn that led to the accumulation of
cultural properties at Kaiyuan from throughout the city of Quanzhou as well as the
formation of the heritage management committee at Kaiyuan in the early 1950s in order
to oversee state funds spent on preservation. It was Kaiyuan's status as a Provincial Level
Protected Heritage Site that empowered Mayor Wang to fight for its protection during the
Cultural Revolution. The curatorial turn was part of China's effort to articulate a national
heritage while at the same time framing religious phenomena as part of China's past.
Both moves were part of China's modernizing project which sought to contain religion
and, if possible, fix it as a relic of the past. With the death of Mao political and
revolutionary motives are replaced by economic ones and the will to preserve heritage
investment, but that is a story that must wait for later chapters. Subsequent chapters will
explore how cultural properties contribute to the identity and success of Kaiyuan.
century as a unit in order to highlight the continuities that are obscured in other accounts
1950s, leading to the decimation of the sangha and destruction of temples during the
Cultural Revolution. If this is not the end of the story in those accounts, the story is
monks fled after communist victory. My research has revealed a continuous narrative in
the life of Quanzhou Kaiyuan from the Republican period through the end of the 1990s.
Although Kaiyuan's activities were radically interrupted during the Cultural Revolution,
monks such as Guang'an and Miaolian remained on site, protecting property and
active abroad and would come to Kaiyuan's aid in the late 1980s using the same funding
networks that had been established during the 20s and 30s. The story of the tenacity of
these monks is continued in the following chapter, which chronicles Kaiyuan's post-Mao
recovery.
narrative that has only begun to be revealed in book chapters and articles, none of which
reconstruct the chronology of revival with the kind of ethnographic detail found here. The
restoration, which began soon after the death of Mao in 1976, received its initial spark
from the small coterie of monks who had remained at the monastery throughout the
Cultural Revolution. Further restoration was facilitated by contact with Fujian monks
who had migrated to Southeast Asia before the Cultural Revolution along paths blazed by
1988 (laying the groundwork), II. 1989 to 1999 (full renovation) and III. 2000-2010 (the
Daoyuan era). The first stage saw the return of public worship at Kaiyuan after a decade-
long hiatus and an important visit by Zhao Puchu, the president of the Chinese Buddhist
Association, who helped lay the groundwork for Kaiyuan's recovery. The second stage
saw the full scale renovation of Kaiyuan's buildings with Singapore funds capped by a
visit by Jiang Zemin, which unequivocally affirmed Kaiyuan's revival as a site of cultural
heritage and religious practice. The third stage spans the first decade of Daoyuan's tenure
enhancements. During the first two stages of recovery, 1976 to 1999, the revival of
transnational networks linking Quanzhou with Southeast Asia and funding by overseas
Chinese was an important factor. The data presented here supports similar observations
made by scholars regarding the funding of the religious revival in Southeast China (e.g.
Dean 1993, 1998; Ashiwa 2000; Ashiwa and Wank 2006). The material presented here,
taken with that provided by Ashiwa (Ashiwa 2000), provides a fuller picture of the
funding from overseas sources has become increasingly insignificant as the local
community has grown more prosperous. This growing prosperity has enabled the current
abbot Daoyuan to reclaim monastic property from other entities and engage in continual
recovery has focused more on developing the "hardware" required to pursue the monastic
enterprise (the physical plant, number of monks, steady sources of income, recovery of
ritual forms) at the expense of cultivating the "software" which includes study, discipline
and meditation. While study, discipline and meditation are normative for the project of
Buddhism and Yuanxian describes them as the three legs of the tripod of old Kaiyuan
(Sizhip.la), they are less fundamental to a Buddhist monastery as a brick and mortar
institution serving a community with other values. What kind of an institution this
monastery is, what kind of community it serves and what are their values will become
more clear in the following chapters. The current chapter aims to trace Kaiyuan's
trajectory of revival in order to highlight the processes that have shaped and led to
Kaiyuan's current state of restoration. The revival of religious activities will only be
1
 Ashiwa and Wank focuses on clerics associated with Nanputuo, but do not look at Quanzhou (Ashiwa
2000; Ashiwa and Wank 2005).
Chairman Mao died in September of 1976 and the arrest of the Gang of Four the
following month marked the end of the Cultural Revolution.2 There was no new direction
in policy, religious, economic or otherwise, until the Third Plenum of the Eleventh Party
Congress in December of 1978 when Deng Xiaoping set out on a course now referred to
as reform and opening (gaige kaifang Sfr^i JfjiX). The reforms set in motion became
believe or not believe in religion and engage in "normal religious activities" (zhengchang
de zongjiao huodong JE^! W^^yS^t)). Since then the officially recognized five
religions (Buddhism, Islam, Daoism, Christianity and Catholicism) have officially been
on a path of recovery, each with their own trajectories. Quanzhou Kaiyuan began to
recover in stages soon after the death of Mao in 1976. The following sketch of the early
stages of Kaiyuan's recovery is based on oral accounts I have collected from individuals
who resided at Kaiyuan during the 1980s and 1990s or residents and local officials with
particular knowledge about Kaiyuan. Getting this story has not been as easy as one might
think—most people are not interested in Kaiyuan's stages of recovery and they don't have
a clear memory of how it proceeded. What I outline below is the most reliable portrait I
have been able to develop from hours of interviews with dozens of individuals positioned
2
  The Gang of Four was blamed for the inciting the worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution. The leader
was Mao Zedong's last wife, Jiang Qing ylilf , and included her associates Zhang Chunqiao ^#1fF , Yao
Wenyuan Mi3t7£ > a n d Wang Hongwen 3L$k3C .
3
  Pas 1989: 6-7.
local monk Daoxing iH;^4. Daoxing became a novice at Zhangzhou's Nanchan monastery
in 1980, although he didn't receive full ordination until 1988 at Guangdong's Nanhua
Temple ] ^ ) ^ # . From 1980 to 1984 he served as Kaiyuan's guest prefect and serves as
novice would never be allowed to serve in the position of guest prefect, or hold any other
rank. But due to the lack of able-bodied monks in the earliest years of recovery, many
young monks and novices were allowed to take positions in the monastic hierarchy that
were traditionally reserved for more senior monastics. Daoxing returned to Kaiyuan after
three years in Guangdong and again lived at Kaiyuan from 1987 to 1999, a period during
which he held various clerical positions. He and his friend Chuanjian f t l l of Xiamen's
Puguang Temple If ;)fc^f provided me with much of the framework and content of
Quanzhou residents have claimed that people began to burn incense and bow to
reached a crescendo on the fourth day of the fourth lunar month of 1980. According to
my informants, this day marks the official recovery of religious practice at Quanzhou
4
  In 1984 he shaved his head and went to Nanchan Monastery to live for three years.
5
  Daoxing is currently abbot of both Ci'en Temple W-^^F and Amitabha Temple ^Pfr^F on Mount
Qmgyuan in Quanzhou. He and Chuanjian both left Kaiyuan when Daoyuan became abbot to avoid a
conflict in seniority that would have been natural between them. Within the monastic order, seniority is
determined by years as a monk and both Daoxing and Chuanjian were ordained before Daoyuan, making
them his seniors It would not have been proper for them to serve under Daoyuan as abbot, so, after what
has been vaguely described as a struggle (douzheng 4 - ^ ) , the senior monks Daoxing and Chuanjian left
Kaiyuan ahead of Daoyuan's succession as abbot in 2000 Daoxing first went to Chengtian monastery
where he served as the general manager(/lanyuan) and then in 1999 or so he went to Mount Qmgyuan and
began to recover the properties associated with the two temples there Chuanjian is from Xiamen He
became a monk at Xiamen's Nanputuo Monastery in 1984, he went to Zhangzhou Nanchan Monastery
where he met Daoxmg
nianfo and is said to have attracted 10,000 people over its duration. It was the first time
crowds of this size had been seen at a religious function in the city for more than two
decades and signaled in a very concrete manner that open religious expression was again
permissible. Before this time there had very seldom been any sign of devotional activity
at Kaiyuan, but after this Kaiyuan began a slow and steady recovery. April fourth of the
lunar calendar in 1980 was the Qingming Festival {qingmingjie) sometimes referred to as
sweeping the graves of ancestors and making offerings to them. In 1980 this festival was
still not publically permitted so this memorial celebration at Kaiyuan was a way for
At the head of fundraising efforts during the first years of recovery was the monk
Guang'an who was finally able to follow his dharma brothers to Southeast Asia after
suffering ten years of humiliation as a "bad element." Under China's new policy of
opening under Deng Xiaoping, travel restrictions were lifted and Guang'an was able to
travel to the Philippines. Following the example of Kaiyuan's Republican Period monks,
support. He succeeded in collecting ¥2,700 in 1980 and another ¥2,400 in 1982 which he
protected site in the second batch (guojiaji dierpi zhongdian wenwu baohu danwei H M
named an important national Han Buddhist temple (quanguo hanzu diqufojiao zhongdian
relatively complete set of buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties and two
exceptional monumental pagodas from the Song dynasty were instrumental in attracting
recognition at these national levels (its 1961 designation was at the provincial level,
though nationally recognized). This is an important designation to receive for any site
hoping to attract tourists at a national or international level. These designations are part of
the state's effort to not only promote economic development, but also to influence, frame
come in various forms, but the most obvious is the temple administrative commission, an
entity that will be explored in chapter eight. These designations are not innocent; they are
connected to the power of the state and reflect the continued working out of the statist
monastery falls under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of Culture; as a site of "normal
religious activities," it falls under the jurisdiction of the Religious Affairs Bureau; as a
Buddhist monastery if falls under the jurisdiction of the China Buddhist Association
6
 Interview with Huang Yushan, 2009.
7
 Huang 2005: 18-19. In 1983 the same status was bestowed on Xiamen's Nanputuo, Fuzhou's Gushan and
Zhangzhou's Nanshan Temples
autonomous; their relationship with the state is filtered through two ideological constructs,
" normal religion" and "cultural heritage." Kaiyuan's monks have been required to
master these two discursive fields (normal religion and cultural heritage) in order to work
While 1980 marked the beginning of recovery and the resumption of openly
holding religious ceremonies, from 1983 to 1984 Kaiyuan underwent a series of real
signs of achievement that marked the recovery as one that was more than a phantom.
Physical recovery proceeded with the re-gilding (tiejin) of Kaiyuan's major statues using
2.5kg. of gold at a cost of ¥160,000, ¥32,000 of which is said to have come from
Singapore.8 As Kaiyuan began to return to life as a cultural attraction that also welcomed
religious devotees, it began to receive a stream of high level visits which, on the one hand,
pushed municipal authorities to ensure that it was well maintained and, on the other, let
the public know that the temple was once again open for business.
One of the first and most important high-level visits was by the widely respected
president of the Chinese Buddhist Association Zhao Puchu Mftftl (1907-2000) in 1983
to celebrate the Yuanxiao festival, which traditionally marks the end of Chinese new year
celebrations and occurs on the fifteenth day of the first month of the lunar calendar. Zhao
Puchu was without peer as a Buddhist leader in mainland China during the 80s and 90s.
His position enabled him to perceive and solve at least three problems that helped set
8
    Interview with Wu Songbai, 2009
At the time of Zhao Puchu's visit Kaiyuan's main hall and ordination hall were
both still under the management of the heritage management committee and, according to
monks who were there at the time, not fully open for worship, but more museum-like.
Members of the heritage management committee staffed tables inside halls and even slept
in the halls. This was done, in the eyes of the heritage management committee, to ensure
the protection of the valuable properties inside the halls, which remained under their
jurisdiction. The monks and lay Buddhists resented the encroachment on spaces they
considered places of worship. This undesirable situation was corrected through the
influence of Zhao Puchu who arranged for oversight of Kaiyuan's halls to be transferred
grounds of Kaiyuan, but these too, as will be shown in chapter eight, would not last.
The second issue which Zhao Puchu is credited with solving concerned the
livelihood of the monks. Since the end of the Cultural Revolution, Kaiyuan's monks had
supported themselves by selling souvenirs and other goods in small shops. This was not
only undesirable from the point of view of the monks, but it was also a poor means of
fund raising. Zhao Puchu was able to help the monks negotiate their way out of working
in these shops and enabled them to support themselves through receipt of donations. To
Buddha recitation time {nianfo qi ^i^Jffi). It was decided that they would institute a
9
  What I mean by "religious revival" will become more clear in chapter six, I use this phrase to contrast
with what could be described as physical or secular restoration as a tourist site of cultural treasures
10
   Wu Sonbgai, interview 2009.
Ordination Platform. In the mid-eighties there may have been as many as 500 people
coming to the Buddha-recitation day and by 1994 the numbers of lay participants had
increased so that the Buddha-recitation was moved to the main hall to accommodate the
crowd.11 This important tradition will be discussed in detail when examining the religious
An additional situation that Zhao Puchu is credited with reforming is the sharing
of rice. Before his visit, Kaiyuan's monks maintained their own supplies of rice, which
they would individually provide to the lay person Wen Meng who would then prepare the
rice in one large pot which was then shared by all the monks. If someone contributed less,
problems could arise. After Zhao Puchu's visit, this system was reformed and all of the
rice was combined to form a common store from which meals were prepared. This may
sound like a trivial matter, but it served as an important step in developing the kind of
As income was generated from increasing donations and more monks were
ordained, Kaiyuan built a large dining hall (wuguan tang) from 1986 to 1987 that can
including active and retired monks and novices, had increased from around two dozen in
                                                                        17
the early eighties to as many as sixty at the end of the eighties. The construction of a
large dining hall marks the end of Kaiyuan's first stage of recovery which witnessed
(and free noodles) days. The dining hall was not only a milestone in Kaiyuan's recovery,
it was an investment in the future of the monastery as a place for the cultivation of a
instrumental in setting Kaiyuan on this particular trajectory of recovery, one with a future
for monastics.
Monastery to help them negotiate their path to revival. B Zhao Puchu was an instrumental
figure in helping Buddhism transition into forms acceptable to the regime through the
Communist period. His brief visit to Kaiyuan at this early period was a crucial step in
Kaiyuan's return to functioning as a home of monastics. At the time of his visit there was
only one other Buddhist monastery that had been revived in the city of Quanzhou,
Chongfu Monastery. Chongfu temple had been rebuilt and discussions were underway to
rebuild Quanzhou's other important monastery, Chengtian, but its restoration would not
be complete until 1990.14 There may have been one or two small temples, but no more at
this early period. Kaiyuan had been the first to revive and paved the way for other
In addition to developing into a site for the sangha, Kaiyuan continued to develop
as a site for tourists as it had during the early years of the Maoist period. In 1983,
Kaiyuan monastery was visited by the former King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihanouk
(1922- ) and his wife. In preparation for this visit the west pagoda was washed. A photo
13
   The mam hall of Xuefeng Monastery had been preserve during the Cultural Revolution by placing
images of Chairman Mao on it.
14
   Chengtian Monastery was restored from 1984 to 1990 with 10,000,000 RMB in funds collected by
master Hongchuan from Singapore (interview with Wu Songbai, 2009)
that it was after this highly publicized visit, by an international figure, that people began
to return to worship in greater numbers and more regularly. In addition to a high profile
visit from a former king, Kaiyuan also began to receive visits by international delegations
of Buddhists. From 1979 to 1989 five delegations of clerics from Japan's Obaku school
of Zen visited Kaiyuan monastery. One of these delegations came to Kaiyuan bearing a
statue of Kaiyuan's master Mu'an who is venerated in Japan as one of the early and most
talented patriarchs of the Obaku school. The small statue was once enshrined in
Kaiyuan's Hall of Patriarchs.15 A final elite visitor during this first stage of recovery was
the Chinese-designated Panchen Lama who visited Kaiyuan in 1986. Each high profile
visit served to legitimate Kaiyuan as cultural and religious institution and encouraged
other Chinese, both local and non-local to visit as tourists and in worship.
In 1984, the central name board in the center of the main gate which reads "Great
Kaiyuan Everlasting Chan Temple," the title given by Kublai Khan during the Yuan
dynasty, was repaired and the characters gilded.16 With the addition of a name in gold
characters and a growing reputation as a place of history, culture and beauty, in 1986,
Kaiyuan temple was voted one of the ten most scenic spots in Fujian province.17 It was
developing as a home for monks and site of cultural heritage that welcomed visitors and
worshipers.
15
   It is no longer in the Hall of Patriarchs and no one seems to know where it is If this statue has indeed
been lost, it is no small cultural loss
16
   Interview with Benzhi, 2006
17
   Huang 2005 18-19
Kaiyuan's Buddha's and Bodhisattvas were once again covered in gold and once
again open to streams of believers bearing incense and offerings, but the large wooden
halls showed the wear of time, the elements and termites. A second stage of recovery was
inaugurated in the summer of 1989, when a group of monks from Southern Fujian
(Minnan) who had settled in Southeast Asia before the Cultural Revolution returned to
Kaiyuan and determined to have its buildings restored. These monks were Hongchuan ;£;
Guangchun and Qinghui were all associated with Singapore's Putuo Temple which had
been founded by Zhuandao; Guangjing and Guangqia were disciples of Kaiyuan's former
abbot Zhuanfeng. They received government approval and had the former mayor Wang
Work began in July of 1989 and was completed five years later in the summer of 1993.
The main hall, the main gate, the hall of the ordination platform and the sutra library were
all restored to look like new. A stele was erected in the main courtyard of the monastery
the stele, Singapore's Putuo Temple funded work on the main hall, ordination hall,
Hongyi museum and sutra hall, while Singapore's Longshan Temple ~Mlh^F helped fund
the restoration of the Main Gate.1 Wu Songbai also says that Singapore's Pujue Temple,
which had been founded by Zhuandao, contributed 5,500,000 RMB in funds to Kaiyuan.
   Yoshiko Ashiwa explores the relations that several of these monks have with Xiamen's Nanputuo temple
where Zhaunfeng had served as abbot (Ashiwa 2000)
19
   1993 stele recording the restoration of Quanzhou Kaiyuan Chan Monastery. According to Wu Songbai,
Kaiyuan Monastery was renovated during this period with most funds coming from domestic sources,
especially those associated with Putuo Temple which had been established by
Zhuandao.20 This work was officially declared complete during the celebration of
Chinese New Year in 1993 well in time for a visit by President Jiang Zemin on June 24,
1994. Jiang Zemin visited Kaiyuan and was guided by Zhang Zhenhao "jjzMM the head
guide of the guest reception branch of the Temple Administrative Commission.21 This
visit was trumpeted throughout the city and region and photos of the president touring
Kaiyuan are displayed in the Kaiyuan Buddhist museum. There is no higher level visitor
in China than the president and his expression of interest and approval sealed Kaiyuan as
an officially recognized place of cultural value and, in the eyes of the Buddhist
visitors had begun to arrive as early as 1983, throughout the 80s Kaiyuan's recovery was
steady but modest; it was the full restoration of the early 90s and the visit by Jiang Zemin
which made it clear that Kaiyuan had "arrived." It was a place of value, a place to see, a
place to be.
Visits by Zhao Puchu and Jiang Zemin have both been an important boost to
Kaiyuan's recovery efforts and calligraphy by each of them is kept by the monastery to
commemorative volume and photos taken during their visits hang in the museum of
4,600,000 Wu Songbai, interview, 2009. This, however, was not mentioned in the 1993 stele inscription
which named the Singapore temples and monks as contributors.
20
   Yoshiko Ashiwa connects the revival of Xiamen Nanputuo Monastery to its overseas connections with
Southeast Asia as well Those networks are very similar to those of Quanzhou Kaiyuan since Zhuanfeng
was associated with both monasteries (Ashiwa 2009. 60-62)
21
   One of the functions of the Quanzhou Kaiyuan Temple Administrative Commission is to serve as guides
to political elites who wish to visit More on this office and its place at Kaiyuan will be explored in chapter
eight
While support from overseas Chinese in Singapore and the Philippines was an
important ingredient in Kaiyuan's first decade of recovery, since the end of the 90s
formal contact between Kaiyuan and the overseas Chinese communities in Southeast
Asia has been broken. One informant who had participated in fundraising activities in
Southeast Asia, claims that a contributing factor is a Singaporean policy regulating such
fundraising activities in Singapore.22 While this may be one factor, I agree with others
that the most important reason for the decline in financial support coming in from
Southeast Asia is the growing prosperity of mainland China in general and in Fujian in
particular which has been increasingly evident since the nineties. Kaiyuan's monks
simply had no compelling reason to go abroad in search of funds with so much wealth
being generated within their community. This is the situation which has prevailed since I
Miaolian, master Hongyi's former attendant, served as abbot and oversaw the first
two decades of Kaiyuan's post-Mao recovery. Miaolian was in poor and declining health
throughout the eighties and nineties and he passed away at the monastery on November 5,
1999 at the age of 87. His funeral was held at Kaiyuan on November 11 and attended by
over 2000 people including government leaders, clerics from other temples and
disciples.23 Miaolian provided a tenuous link between Kaiyuan's current restoration and
22
  Interview with Chuanjian, 2009.
23
  The funeral was conducted by master Benxing $ ' | 4 a vice-president and secretary general of the Fujian
Buddhism Association. Benxing now serves as the abbot of Fuzhou Kaiyuan Monastery, in Fuzhou Master
Xuecheng ( ^ M ) the vice secretary-general of the Chinese Buddhist Association who is also the president
of the Fujian Buddhism Association was the director of the Committee for Master Miaohan's Funeral
Chen Tianshuang (R^ffl j£[) Vice-director of the Fujian United Front Work Department and Yu Xianfeng
kept them and displayed them in one of the halls to the west of the central axis. The
would come to be displayed in a new hall built by the succeeding abbot, Daoyuan.
At the time of Miaolian's death, Daoyuan, then in his sixties, was general
Daoyuan was installed as the new abbot on July 20, 2000. He had become a monk late in
life, circumstances seemed to have favored him in his rise to power at Kaiyuan. While
Miaolian was quiet, passive and contemplative, Daoyuan is bold, aggressive and worldly.
A biographical sketch will be followed by an account of his tenure at Kaiyuan which has
been marked by two major themes: 1. The recovery of monastic property and 2. Physical
enhancements to the monastery. His actions most clearly demonstrate the overriding
Daoyuan was born in a small village named Chidian ftkjrj, outside the city of
Quanzhou; he was the second child in a family of seven (four brothers and two sisters). In
1969, during the Cultural Revolution, he was sent down (chadui ffifyk) to the rural district
of Qingniu ilf ^UrO'Blue-Green Cow") and he lived there until he became a monk in
1986 at a temple in Shishi ^ f p ("Stone Lion").24 He took refuge under Chuanjing f#tf,
an older monk at Kaiyuan Temple, so he considers himself a monk from Kaiyuan even
( ^ l 5 ^ ^ ) , then vice-director (fuju zhang) of the Fujian Bureau of Religious Affairs served as vice-directors
for the funeral committee. Miaolian's remains were cremated at Xuefeng Temple at Mount Yangmei \h\%
 lii in Nan'an on November 12.
24
    It is possible that changing his official residence (hukou) from the village of Qmgniu to the city of
Quanzhou may have been among his motivations m becoming a monk He mentions that he was able to do
this by becoming a monk
Buddhist Association, with agreement from the Fujian Provincial Bureau of Religion, to
go to Brazil to serve as the head monk {zhuchi) at Guanyin Temple in Sao Paulo where a
monk speaking the local Minnan dialect was needed.25 After two years in Brazil, which
Daoyuan recalls with great fondness, he returned to Kaiyuan, citing that his services
was ill, and Daoyuan, who had served in a leadership position at Guanyin Temple in Sao
Paolo, took over management of Kaiyuan's affairs, first serving as the head guest prefect
(da zhike) and then, in July of 1996, as general manager. Daoyuan's first task was the
recovery of properties immediately bounding the central axis of the monastery that had
these properties can be traced back to the end of the Qing dynasty, while others had
become occupied over the past thirty years. What Daoyuan accomplished over the next
ten years was no small feat and one that has won greater autonomy for Kaiyuan.
His first task was to reclaim the property known as small Kaiyuan Temple, the
scaled down replica of Kaiyuan's main buildings first built during the Qing dynasty in the
northeast corner of the monastery. In July 1997, he successfully negotiated with the
individuals living there to move out, offering a total of one million RMB to compensate
them. While the officially recognized religions are allowed to reclaim property that
23
  1 know that he was visited by the then vice-president of the Fujian Bureau of Religion, Mr. Yu
Tingzhang; both of them speak fondly of their time together in Brazil. Having good relations with this
high-ranking official who has jurisdiction over Kaiyuan has certainly been in Daoyuan's favor, though I
cannot offer specifics in this regard
those evicted.26 In the northwest corner was a Department of Landscape and Gardening
(yuanlin guanli chu I z i ^ W S ^ h ) that had become established over the past several
succeeding in clearing away private homes and a bank, which had encroached upon the
main entrance. Just behind the guest hall is the old Land and Water Temple {shuilu si),
during the Maoist period it had been occupied by a troupe of puppeteers (muer tuan).
This group was evicted and the temple returned to use as a shine hall. In 2004, property
in the far northeastern part of the temple that had been lost at the end of the Ming and
early Qing Dynasties was recovered. This land became used to build a two story building
that serves as the residence of the abbot, two high-ranking monks, two helper monks and
a monk who works in the office of the Quanzhou CBA located on the grounds of the
and enjoyed remarkable success in reclaiming all the property lying within Kaiyuan's
fencing.
committee was established with former mayor Wang Jinsheng serving as the director and
Daoyuan as vice director. A total of six million RMB (750,000 USD)28 were spent on
renovations including a re-gilding of the statues for 1,200,000 RMB and 1,000,000 RMB
(125,000 USD) spent to organize and repair scriptures in the sutra library with the help of
26
   Ashiwa recounts how, in the early 90s Xiamen's Bialudong temple compensated the army with 485,000
RMB to recover property it had lost (Ashiwa 2000 25).
27
   They relocated to another part of the city and are now a successful landscape and gardening business
28
   Amounts given in USD are approximate and the exchange rate used to calculate vanes from the late 90s
(8 RMB to one USD) to 2009 (less than 7 RMB to one USD)
Kaiyuan position as a trove of cultural treasures It was not, that is, part of plan to revive
scholarship, but rather part of a project of cultural preservation which fit in to the
cost of nine million RMB (1,125,000 USD) The Anyang Yuan is an underground
mausoleum for the ashes of patrons willing to pay the required fees Special sections are
set aside for the remains of overseas Chinese and these form a significant portion of the
their final resting place, as they say m Chinese, "falling leaves return to the roots" (luoye
guigen yirtffjlElfll) The mausoleum generates approximately four to five million RMB
(about 700,000 USD) per year and when it is full it will have generated approximately
one hundred million RMB (more than 14 million USD) Price to inter the ashes of one
person and have a spirit tablet is 4,200 RMB (600 USD) Ashes are kept in individual
vaults and spirit tablets are housed in large hall above ground which came to displace the
Daoyuan's first major act as abbot was the hosting of a great three platform
ordination ceremony in January, 2001 It had been seventy years since the last one was
held in 1925 and, according to some reports, the third time since the founding of Kaiyuan
Temple 1,300 years ago 29 Desheng felt it was comical that a platform had to be
constructed for use next to the ordination hall because the actual ordination platform is
cannot be moved.
The second major act of Daoyuan's tenure as abbot was the opening of the
Quanzhou Museum of Buddhism at small Kaiyuan Temple on April 22, 2001. The
project had begun in 1999 when Daoyuan convened the Quanzhou Buddhism Museum
Preparation Committee, chaired by himself with Chen Pengpeng from the Quanzhou
Heritage Management Association serving as advisor. Mr. Zhao Puchu participated in the
grand opening and wrote the name board for the museum. The renovated small Kaiyuan
Temple was transformed into a museum of 3,200 square meters, consisting of five halls
connected by corridors, landscaped with flowers and plants. The antiquities on display
Quanzhou Buddhism throughout the imperial and Republican periods. There are halls of
stone sculptures, temple bells and metal objects and sculptures and other items taken
from Kaiyuan and from sites in the Quanzhou region. Some notable items include three
stone sculptures from the Tang dynasty, including a Guanyin with moustache that was
once set in a niche of the pagodas, a purple sandalwood sculpture of Dizang bodhisattva
from the Ming, an excellent stone sculpture of Bodhidharma from the Ming, gilded
bronze statues from the Ming and Qing, a large steel tripod caste by Zheng Zhilong in
1637 (one of five), large bronze bells from 1132 (Southern Song) and 1325 (Yuan) as
well as bronze and iron bells from the Ming and Qing dynasty.
This museum included items from all over the region that had been collected at
Kaiyuan from the 1950 onward under the supervision of the Heritage Management
Association. The museum was a means of displaying the artifacts to the public; it was in
a means of enhancing the property of the monastery. Establishing such enhancements is,
Two million RMB was spent in planning, designing and expanding the Master
Hongyi museum and garden in the northeast part of the monastic grounds. A courtyard
garden was created, which now stands before the Hall of the Buddha's Life (bensheng
yuan ^^L$m), outlining this courtyard and surrounding the small Kaiyuan temple there
are more than four hundred new granite sculptures each costing 7,600 RMB. The
(Husheng huaji), the book was first published in 1929 and the paintings depict the
content of classical poems and Buddhist tales dealing with the protection of all forms of
life from insects to cows; Hongyi wrote out verses to accompany the illustrations.30 They
are expressions of art as well as expression of a Buddhist moral injunction to protect life.
Daoyuan says he was drawn to this project because of both the Hongyi connection and
Daoyuan had a new two-story building constructed next to and in the same style
as the building at the back of small Kaiyuan that serves as the Hongyi Memorial Hall.
The new building is called the Bensheng yuan and was completed in 2007; it enshrines
two gilded statues of Sakyamuni Buddha portraying his birth and his performance of
30
  Tarocco 2007:32, 71-73. The book was first published by Kaiming Books in 1929. For more on Feng
Zikai see Tarocco, Francesca. 2007. The Cultural Practices of Modern Chinese Buddhism: Attuning the
Dharma. London: Routledge.
Buddha Sakyamuni Due to the nature of the building, I translate Benshengyuan as the
Hall of the Buddha's Life The sculptures in this hall were created at an expense of over
In 2002, along the sides of the main gate, Daoyuan erected two large bounding
walls reading "Dharma World of the Lotus-Blooming Mulberry Tree" and "Auspicious
Lotus Blooming Peach Tree" referencing auspicious stones associated with the
monastery [Figures 49-50] The new walls adjoining the mam gate were a symbolic
place with an auspicious past Kaiyuan like other temples and sites in China is full of
inscriptions, steles and plaques, these texts in stone and wood are not as dormant as they
may seem They actively contribute to the experience of visitors, be they literate or not
For the illiterate their calligraphy, their age or sheer literary presence suggests a
mysterious power For those who can read them, they impress with their literary allusions,
their antiquity and their artistry To capture this active function of inscriptions at temples,
                                     "1 1
Chau proposes the term "text act " As text acts inscriptions are endowed with the
power to influence the perceptions of visitors, enhance the reputation of the monastery
and ward off those who may wish to harm the monastery
Daoyuan has not been particularly concerned with preservation m the mode of the
Maoist- era heritage management association His recovery, renovation and building has
than curatorial He has expressed this orientation by not hesitating to destroy buildings
31
     See Chau 2006 95-98
An Yang Yuan. In addition he has not been reluctant to replace cultural properties that
have been damaged. He had the eight vajra protectors on the ordination platform replaced
in 2006, for example, after one of them was damaged. He also had the Dharma Hall and
Sutra Library demolished and reconstructed in 2008 (the contents and other salvageable
ornaments were all preserved in storage), for reported structural weakness associated with
damage from the Sino-Japanese War. Most recently, he ordered the restoration of all five
Buddhas in the main hall when one of their heads fell off due to termite damage in 2009.
I have not been privy to all of the details of these decisions, but some observers have
As Kaiyuan's recovery continued through the 80's and 90's the orphanage and
school remained on the eastern edge of the monastic complex. After the death of Mao,
the school was reconstituted and classes resumed, but no monks were involved in its
operation or administration. Under Chinese law, religious institutes are not allowed to
operate schools for general education and so what was once the school and orphanage
established by Yuanying and the Republican Period trio of monks became a school
operated by the state. I have been told that in 2003 a Hong Kong business person wanted
to replace the school with a large building and make it a charity center in Quanzhou.
When Daoyuan heard this he was angry and rushed back from a meeting he was
attending in Shanghai. The temple had just gotten a computer and one of Kaiyuan's
monks was asked to compose a letter to local officials in response. The monk typed for
four hours to report to the government why this should not be done, why a tall building
32
     Particularly with respect to replacing the eight vajra protectors (Interviews in Quanzhou, 2006, 2009).
cared so much that he should buy the school back. But Daoyuan didn't take it as a joke
and asked how much it would cost. The official said that he might be able to help him
deal with the situation for 10 to 20,000 RMB; Daoyuan immediately offered two million
RMB which the man didn't hesitate to accept. This anecdote reveals something about the
personality of Daoyuan that has enabled him to fight on behalf of the monastery to
recover properties and remove entities that had encroached upon the monastery. Many
abbots would not be able to deal with such situations as effectively as Daoyuan has and
The students were immediately moved to a special school {teshu xuexiao ffiffi^
$£) and the buildings that had been used as classrooms and offices became converted to
other, somewhat peripheral, uses while others were demolished. The Hubao Building J^
ttl'H, for example, is a two story structure which had been used by teachers, including
offices and possibly living quarters; it now houses the offices of the Quanzhou Buddhist
Association. The school auditorium (litang), a large room with many chairs and a large
TV, is now used by a group of lay Buddhists who regularly hold nianfo meetings there.33
Just west of this building is a two story structure which in the 1980's had served as an art
school. The art school personnel were evicted and that building has become used as the
guest reception area or guest hall (ketang); it also contains apartments for a few higher-
ranking monks on the second floor. Lying in front of the guest hall is now a landscaped
area which includes the Western gate. Through these measures the elementary school and
orphanage has been wiped away from the landscape of Quanzhou Kaiyuan. The charity
33
  This group independently meets without the participation of monks, they previously met in a building
behind the abbot's quarters and were moved to this space in 2007 or 2008
Cultural Revolution, but, ironically, was unable to survive the revival that is underway in
contemporary China. Losing the school and orphanage, while disappointing from the
point of view of Zhuandao and Yuanying's goals and legacy, has been part of Kaiyuan's
quest for greater autonomy. While the Republican period orphanage has been a
prominent part of Kaiyuan's recent history, it seems that an attempt is being made to
wipe it away from Kaiyuan's past. An article was published in 2000 in the national
Buddhist periodical Fayin to mark the completion of renovations by Daoyuan. This two
page article provided a sketch of Kaiyuan's history, specifically mentioning details of the
Republican period restoration under Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu (dharma hall,
pagodas...) and specifically omitting any mention of the orphanage and school.34 I'm
sure the omission was no accident; including it would have simply raised questions about
its recent removal, which the Kaiyuan leadership would rather avoid.
Since the time of his becoming a monk in 1986, Daoyuan has become a politically
addition to being a trustee in the Chinese Buddhist Association, the vice-president of the
Fujian Buddhist Association and the president of the Quanzhou Buddhist Association,
Daoyuan is also a member of the ninth Fujian Political Harmony Consultation Committee
(zhengxie WiW) and a permanent member of the Quanzhou People's Congress. Daoyuan
reads the People's Daily every afternoon and watches news programs and Chinese operas
34
     Wen Lan XM 2000.
chairman Mao on the screen of his cell phone. By 2009 he had upgraded to an I-phone
and had lost the chairman Mao image. He is required to regularly attend political
meetings, as are other high-ranking monks, so as to remain briefed on the state's views
and policy on religion and the management of religious sites. He is responsible for
managing Kaiyuan's income and deciding how to invest and donate large amounts of
monastic funds (e.g. millions of RMB donated to charities every year) as well as what
improvement to make on the monastery. One of Kaiyuan's monks has expressed that it is
a lot of responsibility and a lot of pressure that most monks would find onerous and
bewildering; it seems to be a job made for Daoyuan, who appears to relish the challenge
spoken and gentle monk, but he has been the right person to fight to recover authority
over the temple and its lost properties. In the 1980s, the monastery was occupied, not
only by the two management committees, but by various non-monastic entities including
private homes, an elementary school, an art school, a puppet troupe and a landscaping
and gardening work group. The new abbot set about recovering full control of all of these
properties by asserting his right as abbot to recover properties that previously belonged to
the monastery. The prosperity of the times enabled the abbot to financially compensate
the individuals that were required to move, thus facilitating his recovery of monastic
fashion. Small Buddhist temples in urban areas are often surrounded by buildings; many
of them occupy land formerly held by the temple, but, unlike Daoyuan, they have no
personality, energy, connections and access to money that enabled him to reclaim
Over a course often years, Daoyuan had recovered all the properties withm
Kaiyuan's walls and, in some cases, had properties cleared or recovered adjoining the
walls. He has not only refurbished Kaiyuan's halls, but has built new walls and buildings
(e g the Hall of the Buddha's Life, the abbot's quarters) and organized two museums
(one for Quanzhou Buddhism, the other for master Hongyi). In addition to maintaining
good relations with the various state agencies that have some level of jurisdiction over
Kaiyuan, Daoyuan's focus has been on the recovery, restoration, maintenance and
enhancement of Kaiyuan's physical plant, in short the "hardware" of the monastery. Put
in terms of one of the frameworks of this dissertation, Daoyuan's tenure as abbot has
focused on the revival of Kaiyuan in its institutional aspects. While this is a theme at
religious sites throughout China there are also examples, close to home for Kaiyuan, of
leadership that has successfully invested in educating and training the Sangha along with
rebuilding Here I have m mind Xiamen's Nanputuo Monastery which reestablished the
Mmnan Buddhist Seminary in 1984 and has become one of the most important training
                                                                                  35
grounds for monks in all of China with hundreds of clerics in residence                This happened,
not because of the state, the CBA or lay activists (although their support was important),
what was instrumental was the leadership of the abbot Miaozhan W>*M (1910-1995) who
perceived the importance and value of training clergy 36 Daoyuan's leadership has
influenced the present character of Quanzhou Kaiyuan, his successor will influence its
35
   Ashiwa and Wank have written the most detailed studies of the revival of Nanputuo See Ashiwa and
Wank 2006, Ashiwa 2000, Wank 2009
36
   Ashiwa and Wank 2006 342-343
"Branch" Temples
As the largest monastery in the region, the earliest to revive, the one with the most
impressive cultural treasures and the one with the largest gatherings of worshippers,
Kaiyuan has been a base for ambitious monks to collect funds for the building or
rebuilding of smaller temples in the region. Monks engaged in these activities of restoring
temples are enhancing their status, to be sure, but they are also acting in line with a
venerable and highly meritorious Buddhist tradition of spreading the Dharma (hongfa) by
building temples. This phenomenon can be traced back as far as the ninth century at
Kaiyuan when private cloisters for masters began to be built by the dozens. During the
Republican period (1930s) the practice re-appeared as Kaiyuan monks collected funds
from Southeast Asia that enabled them to establish small temples in Quanzhou such as
Same-Lotus Temple (tonglian si IRJJU^F) and Muxi Temple ^jt=|3^F, which, according to
Daoyuan, was originally founded by Zhuanfeng for his vegetarian auntie (caigu H££)
The Republican Period phenomenon has re-emerged over the past fifteen years. I
have learned of more than fifty small temples being rebuilt by monks associated with
Quanzhou Kaiyuan since the mid-1990's; in each case they have installed themselves as
the head monk (zhuchi 13: W) or abbot of these temples. To date, the most energetic
rebuilder of temples in Southern Fujian has been Guangjing, the former general manager
of Kaiyuan who having become a respect monk in Singapore, returned to Quanzhou with
funds from Singapore to restore Kaiyuan and dozens of other temples. He is credited with
rebuilt Muxi temple with funds from Singapore's Longshan Temple.37 He had Same-
Lotus Temple rebuilt and enlarged as a home for vegetarian aunties (caigu). When he
died in 1998, leadership of this temple passed to his disciple Chuanjian f t M , who had
served as Kaiyuan's guest prefect (zhike). Chuanjian now lives in Xiamen where he
serves as abbot of Puguang Temple ilF Tfe^F, a temple he rebuilt. As for the current abbot,
Daoyuan, he has raised funds and established himself as the abbot of Qingjing Temple y||
y^^F which is said to have about eight resident monks. Kaiyuan's general manager Fayi
has funded the rebuilding of two small temples where he now serves as head monk,
temple S l $ ] # near his birthplace in Hui'an. Daoxing found patrons to fund the
restoration of two small temples on Mt. Qingyuan, which he now leads, Ci'en
and visibility of being at a venerable monastery it is unlikely that Kaiyuan's monks and
former monks would have enjoyed the success they have had in collecting alms for such
ambitious projects. Monks that hail from smaller temples do not have the same ability,
generally speaking, to attract such donations. Head monks at smaller temples typically
attract enough patronage to maintain their small temple and the handful of monks or
novices that live there, but nothing near the kind of funds necessary to build or rebuild a
temple.
37
  When I visited in 2009,1 was told that seven or eight monks lived there and that Chuanjian was the head
monk We sat and had tea with two young monks This neighborhood temple was attractively appointed
with a small garden and pond m front where children come to play. There are drum and bell towers, a mam
hall and a hall enshrining a 100-armed Guanym at the back of the small, well-tended complex
Buddhists abroad and at home, it became a conduit for restoring temples throughout the
region. In 1978 there were less than half a dozen temples, in 2009 there were more than
420 registered Buddhist temples and as many as 100 non-registered ones.38 Quanzhou
Kaiyuan, the great fruit, has helped re-plant the seeds of Dharma in post-Mao China.
18
     Interview with Wu Songbai, 2009
In his 2006 study of the temple of the Black Dragon King (heilong dawang) in
contemporary North China Adam Chau develops a notion of "doing" religion to capture
what his fieldwork revealed as the nature of religion at his field site—the subtitle of his
book is "Doing Popular Religion in Contemporary China." In this chapter I adapt his
notion of "doing" religion in order to best represent the religious life exhibited at Kaiyuan.
While Chau's object of study was a popular temple with no clerics (a "folk" or "little"
tradition associated with my study, monastic Buddhism, will serve as a test of its
versatility.
Chau reviews the debate in anthropological scholarship that first emerged between
Maurice Freedman (1974) and Arthur Wolf (1974) over whether Chinese religion is best
multiple and we can only speak intelligibly about Chinese religions (in the plural).1 Chau
points out that this debate hinges on religious conceptions, rather than on religious
behavior and proposes that focusing on practice rather than belief is a way to progress
beyond this debate. He identifies a group of five modalities of "doing religion" in China
1
    Chau 2006:73-74. Scholars who have weighed in on the debate include Sangren 1987, Weller
1987 and Feuchtwang 1991.
which I have adopted with slight modifications to reflect the doings of Kaiyuan's
religious actors:2
These five modes of doing religion offer a scheme for locating religious actors
based on behavior rather than on distinguishing "elite and folk" or "great and little." This
defining rubric of Chinese religiosity made prominent by James Watson (Watson 1985,
1988, 1993) who links orthopraxy to efforts of the state to "standardize the gods."
Although Watson's notion of "orthopraxy" has been helpful in conceiving new ways of
accounting for the diversity within unity that one finds in Chinese religion and it has also
been helpful in drawing attention to the centrality of practice (over belief), what
orthopraxy and standardization suggest is too strong to capture the flexibility and, in
Chau 2006-75.
field site. Most importantly I am not dealing with a popular cult so there is less of a
Mazu (Watson 1985) or by Michael Szonyi with respect to the Five Emperors (Szonyi
2007), Pomeranz with respects to the goddess Taishan (Pomeranz 2007) or von Glahn's
study of the Wutong cult (von Glahn 2004).3 Here I explore the possibility of developing
(Roberts, Chiao and Pandey 1975) and in Taiwan (Harrell 1974). This approach led to the
"meaningful god set" which differed from individual to individual based on personal
sacred places (Roberts, Morita and Brown 1986). Chau combines these notions in
developing his idea of a "religious habitus" which each individual may be said to have.
The idea of "habitus" is derived from the notion developed by Pierre Bourdieu (1977);
the religious habitus, which changes over time, is the sum of an individual's attitudes and
behaviors concerning deities, sacred sites, religious specialists, rituals and the
3
  In the case of Buddhism, there is generally less room for "standardizing" which Buddhas, Bodhisattvas or
other members of the Buddhist pantheon are to be worshiped, at least in the contemporary period. The
current state does, somewhat chaotically, enforce standards of acceptable practice in interpreting what
constitutes "normal religious activities " Normal is understood to exclude the superstitious (mixin), and,
after Falun Gong, [heterodox] cults (xiejiao) While the state's concern with superstition has impacted
popular practices in contemporary China, it doesn't seem to have had any significant influence on religion
at Kaiyuan Xiamen's Nanputou Monastery, however, forbid the burning of gold paper mside temple
grounds, the local CBA considered it a superstitious practice (Ashiwa and Wank 2006 353) This has not
been a problem at Kaiyuan, hence my use of "chaotic" to describe the nature of the state's enforcement—
interpretation and enforcement are far from uniform Historically, of course, the state and clerics promoted
members of the Buddhist pantheon in ways that could be perceived as promoting orthopraxy See Chun-
fang Yu's study of Guanym (Yu 2001)
4
  Chau 2006 66
develop a group of profiles to describe different types of religious actors associated with
focus on practice is particularly important in China, where beliefs and notions of identity
experience in contemporary China conducted by Xinzhong Yao and Paul Badham carried
out from 2004 to 2006 found a striking disconnect between statements about religious
identity (which we normally think of in terms of beliefs) and the behaviors and attitudes
        [0]nly 4.4 percent identify themselves as Buddhist and only 5.3 percent
        say 'yes' when asked bluntly whether they believe in reincarnation. Yet
        27.4 percent pray to Buddhas or Bodhisattvas and over half think that their
        families and friends are the result of what they had done in a previous life.
        Even more surprising 77.9% tend to affirm the Buddhist concept of causal
        retribution and the doctrine of karma.'"
Similar results were found for Christianity, folk religion and Confucianism—low
rates of religious identification, high rates of behavioral and other forms of affirmation.
While decades of anti-religious campaigns and propaganda must account for much of this
reluctance to identify oneself as a believer in a particular faith, it is also the case that
doctrinally-based faiths.
Both Chau in his study of popular religion in China and Robert Buswell in his
account of Zen monastic experience in Korea (Buswell 1992) explicitly raise the problem
5
  Chau 2006 67
6
  Yao and Badham 2007 9 Their study was based on a survey of 3,196 Han Chinese (drawn evenly from
ten provinces or municipalities, excluding Xinjiang and Tibet) consisting of structured (usmg 51 page
questionnaires) interviews averaging 47.3 minutes conducted by 110 Chinese assistants in 2005 Three
types of information were collected- personal and demographic data, and reports on religious experience
and religious conceptions, beliefs and practices
Chau points out that the language of "belief," so important to Christian religiosity, is
simply absent from the discourse of the people in his study—"I seldom encountered any
explicit talk of'belief in deities.'"7 While words for "believe" (xiangxin) and "belief
(xinyang) exist in Chinese people in Shanbei do not use them to describe their religious
people will say "I believe what you are saying," but they do not say "I believe in hungry
ghosts" nor do they speak about their beliefs (xinyang). The only time I've encountered
the use of the nominal form "beliefs" is in conversations with more educated people,
religious belief (zongjiao xinyang ziyou). This is the kind of language that Stig
highlight its politically constructed status.9 This way of talking about beliefs is the
official and modern way of speaking about religion so that it may be categorized and
thereby regulated. It thus belongs to the modern nation-state building enterprise of the
CCP, not to the ordinary people who don't even use those terms; it is not how they
conceptualize the world. They have not brought critical distance between themselves and
recognizing the "context of belief." He points out that Zen beliefs cannot be adequately
understood by reading canonical Zen literature such as the lamp anthologies (e.g.jingde
1
   Chau 2006 60.
8
   Chau 2006.60-61.
9
  Th0gersen2OO6.112ff.
experience, they expressly do not "provide an accurate account of how Zen monks of the
pre-modern era pursued their religious vocations."10 Buswell argues that non-canonical
sources such as gazetteers and epigraphic sources are important for correcting the
idealized views of Zen masters derived from Zen teaching stories and hagiographies, but
goes further and insists that "much of the import of Zen beliefs and training may never be
known, or at least may be prone to misinterpretation" without taking into account the
lived experience of Zen monastics.11 Buswell frames his concern by citing I. M. Lewis'
in a living context. This discussion leaves us with much food for thought, for now I wish
to emphasize two points. First, we must remain circumspect when treating the lived
we may have developed based on normative accounts that are portrayed in elite corpuses
of texts. We should not expect the monks and their patrons to exhibit the roles portrayed
in the vinaya, Buddhist sutras and treatises, tales of eminent monks or Chan genealogies.
They may sometimes think and behave in ways recognizable in Buddhist literature, but
very often they do not. To give a simple example we may look at an account of the
10
   Buswell 1992:5.
11
   Buswell 1992:5.
12
   Buswell 1992:5. See Lewis, I M 1986. Religion in Context Cults and Charisma. Cambridge: Cambridge
University Press, pp 20-21
accounts about Baohua Shan at face value, wrote in his Buddhism as a Religion that "the
evening meal is forbidden [the monks] are only allowed tea to drink " 13 Pnp-M0ller
was able to clear up this confusion by spending several weeks at Baohua Shan and
discovering that "drink tea" in this context was an euphemism for having a evening
meal 14 This is now well known, but what a difference the corrected understanding makes
for assessing the level of ascetic commitment of monks What else, we should ask, do
monks do or not do 9
The second point to recall is that the Chinese do not express their religious
identity in the neat and clear ways that are suggested by the labels Buddhist, Daoist or
religious observers are more difficult to categorize With respect to my field site, monks
who have formally accepted the monastic precepts (shoujie) may reliably be referred to
as Buddhists or Buddhist monks, but the many visitors who offer incense and bow to
Buddhas and bodhisattvas at Kaiyuan are another matter Offering incense and bowing to
a Buddha at Buddhist shrine does not make one a Buddhist—at least not in the usual
sense of the term (which is more properly reserved for individual who have taken refuge
China continually struggle to label such people The unwary may refer to them as
"believers" (e g Luo 1991 107) Xiaofei Kang "for convenience" has labeled them "lay
Buddhists" (Kang 2009 236) Sangren has used "devotee" (Sangren 1983) and Chau uses
13
     Hackmann 1910 241 Welch 482, n 15
14
     Pnp-M0ller 1937221
basic types of visitors to Kaiyuan: youke W^- and xiangke # § . The first of these terms
term, which literally means "incense guest," is slightly more problematic. It refers to
visitors whose ^identifying rubric is their desire to prostrate to the Buddha and burn
incense (baifo shaoxiang); I feel it is best rendered as "worshiper." In terms of the modes
of religious behavior listed above, these individuals are "doing" religion in the relational
mode—they are maintaining good relations with the Buddhas and bodhisattvas. What
other modes of religious behavior make up the religious life of Quanzhou Kaiyuan and
what kind of individuals are engaged in the religious life there? We will first examine
monks and their regime, then two types of non-monastic patrons and their activities
The Monks
First and foremost are the monks, their mode of religious behavior covers their
gamut of the five possible orientations. The personal-cultivational mode includes nianfo,
daily services and keeping the precepts; this mode of practice is the most important in
shaping the communal identity of the sangha. It is represented at Kaiyuan and Buddhist
temples large and small throughout China in the form of communal daily services which
will be described below. It is also represented in the shaved heads, the robes, celibacy,
sobriety and vegetarian diet of the monks; more than an external sign these five qualities
reflect the precepts one has taken (shoujie ^LM) and is putting into practice (shoujie TP
the only means I have heard monks or non-monastics use to distinguish the lifestyle and
others (not directed at personal cultivation); this is the liturgical/ritual and some of these
will be described below. All monks have entered into a formal relationship with the
Buddha (relational mode) and thus generally respond to the presence of Buddha statues
by prostrating. They also, especially if they join the daily services, regularly reaffirm
their refuge in the three jewels (the Buddha, Dharma and Sangha).
The remaining two modes of religious behavior are represented in the lives of the
individual monks, but there is no context in which they are formally enacted communally:
these are the immediate/practical mode of religion (e.g. use of Buddhist charms) and the
the least practiced form of religious behavior at Kaiyuan and most Buddhist temples in
China. Most monk interaction with scripture is not in reading (dujing) or studying it
(xuejing), but in chanting (nianjing) or reciting sutras (songjing) which are different
modes of religious behavior (modes 2 and 3). Naturally there are monks who spend time
reading and thinking about sutras, but they are simply in the minority, at least at Kaiyuan
[Figure 79]. The only place I would expect this to be different would be at a Buddhist
seminary, where one can expect most monks to be engaged in a more academic
requires a person-centered approach which has been implied in the brief descriptions here;
15
     See also Welch 1967.
some participate in rituals, others do not. Their religious profile (or habitus) depends on
their personal experiences and among the monks at any monastery, Kaiyuan included,
one can expect to find a considerable degree of diversity in behavior, abilities, disposition
and opinion.
The fundamental feature of life as a monk at Kaiyuan and most all monasteries is
Monasteries vary in the strictness of their regimes; Kaiyuan is currently on the less rigid
end of the regime spectrum. What that means will become clear as I discuss features of
their daily life. I will first describe the daily schedule of monks at Kaiyuan, which
conforms, more or less, to basic features of the daily schedule in Buddhist monastic
contexts in China and beyond. I will also point out features of the weekly and monthly
schedules and some high points of the monastic year, doing so will provide an
opportunity to examine the various periodic ritual services that frame monastic life and
For monks the day officially begins at 4:00 A.M.; the basic features of the daily
Morning
3:30-4:00          Wake up board (ban)
4:00-4:15          Bell (zhong) - call to morning service - 108 times
4:15-4:30          Drum (gu) - 3 rolls to the beat of the Great Compassion mantra (dabei
                   zhou J^HBJXS)
4:30-5:40          Morning Service (zaoke)
6:15-7:30          Breakfast
Evening
3:50               Board to announce evening service
4:00-4:30          Evening service (wanke)
5:00-6:00          Dinner
7:00-7:15          Evening Bell- 108 times
7:15-7:30          Evening Drum- 3 rolls to the beat of the Great Compassion mantra
7:30-8:00          Evening Board
At 3:00 AM the monastery is dark and quiet, even the streets which run to the
south and west of the monastery are quiet. The grounds are still and the shadowy
silhouettes of the pagodas give an old world feeling that is lost once buses and
motorcycles begin to buzz beyond the line of trees to the south and west. Just as one
begins to feel that one is all alone in an abandoned temple, the silence is broken with the
sharp sound of wood striking wood. It is very much like the sound of the bamboo
knocker fountains found in Japanese gardens. Somewhat like the sound of a tile or small
pebble striking hollow bamboo that aroused the mind of Zen master Xiangyan #M(ninth
century) to awaken.16 The striking of this wooden board is the duty of one monk who
must arise before all the others, sometime before 4:00 A.M. and wake them up;
traditionally, abbots would assign a habitually tardy monk to this task. This monk, who at
Kaiyuan is heavy set, seems to waddle as he makes his rounds, striking the wooden board
The next individual to emerge is the monk who opens the hall of the ordination
platform where the large bell and drum are located. I have never seen him enter the hall,
he seems to sneak in and suddenly one hears the dramatic ringing of the bell—108 times,
16
     Ferguson 2000-172-173.
emanate from the slats in the hall of the ordination platform The sounds seem to be
amplified by the hall itself The contrast between the bell and drum is quite striking The
one is sharp, piercing, ringing, the other, dull, droning and booming This monk seems to
be calling the day into being, raising yin and yang, using surprisingly lively qi on the bell
and drum
Slowly monks will begin to stir and emerge from their cells wearing their robes,
typically they are adjusting their robes as they make their way toward the Dharma Hall in
time for morning services at half-past four The communal practice which may be
considered the defining religious practice of modern Chinese monastics is the morning
and evening service (zao-wan ke) [Figures 74, 76] Pi-yen Chen describes the centrahty
of these services
          They [morning and evening services] denote the two periods of solemn
          liturgical practice held during early morning and evening, the practice of
          which is the primary duty of all monks and nuns in Chinese Buddhism
          The daily service is the most important daily function in contemporary
          Buddhist monasteries As the first and the last daily communal religious
          activities, morning and evening service has been designed for purifying
          the mind and promoting the religious sentiment of the sangha 17
The daily morning and evening services are based on the collection of Various Sutras for
Kaiyuan are expected to memorize these daily liturgies as soon as possible, if they
haven't already done so as preparation for their ordination The daily recitation helps, but
one can generally see younger monks in the back rows mumbling along with the others or
17
     Chen 2002 229
The daily services are held at 4:30A.M. and around 4:00 P.M., before the evening
meal.18 The daily services are the first thing monks do after rising and getting dressed and
the last thing they are supposed to do before settling down for the evening; thus, it is
meant to orient their lives towards communal religious cultivation. The morning service
liturgy is centered around a concern with purifying the mind, thus establishing condition
for a day of meritorious living. The evening service turns thoughts to the Pure Land of
An important caveat is that monks with other specific duties (keepers of halls,
office holders etc.) are exempt from participating in morning and evening services
because it is thought to interfere with their other duties. The result of this "exemption" on
religious cultivation is quite profound. Fewer than half of Kaiyuan's monks attend daily
services with any regularity. On the days I have counted the monks in attendance there
have generally been about thirty monks, this number may increase to about forty on the
first and fifteenth of the lunar month. This means that almost half of Kaiyuan's monastic
population does not participate in what is arguably the fundamental, if not only, form of
communal religious cultivation at Kaiyuan and most other Buddhist monasteries in China.
Exempting these monks from daily services would be more understandable if their other
duties provided an opportunity for daily communal practice, but that is not the case.
   The evening service was previously held after dinner around 5 30, but the time was changed to allow
more monks to attend It seems that too many of them disappeared after dinner
19
   Chen 2010, 8 Apart from the content, the form of the liturgy, including dharani, sutras, gathas (verses)
and praises, serves to connect the sangha to the broader world of Buddhist scripture
services, it may be comparable to the tradition of having an elite core of meditators who
are supported by the rest of the monks. Buwsell describes such an arrangement in the Zen
Monastic Experience. The difference, which is no small affair, is that at the monastery
where Buswell practiced, all monks were required to attend morning and evening
services except the meditating monks. Thus all monks except a select number of
the daily liturgies. The morning service that Buswell describes, however, is much less
burdensome on the monk—it lasted about fifteen minutes, compared to the hour plus that
-"Buswell 1992:38-39.
21
   For a detailed account of the components of the daily service see Chen 2010:31-41.
principal one being the Surahgama Dharani which, according to tradition, was taught by
the Buddha to Ananda to remove lustful thoughts from his mind; thus it is an important
the spiritual progress of men, young and old. It is considered a good way to begin the day.
The Dharani may be said to have some meaning, but to most all monks it has no literal
meaning, just sound. The chanting, driven forward by the rhythmic accompaniment of the
inverted bell and wooden fish and punctuated by the chime and small hand cymbals, is
meant to focus and purify the mind. The monks are arranged in rows of five on two sides
of the hall separated by a central aisle leading to the statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. Over
the course of the service, monks will stand facing front, then facing the other group
Toward the end of the service the monks begin to chant "homage to Amitabha"
while they are led out into the central aisle, around the back of the Buddha, and then zig-
zag through the rows of cushions on both sides of the aisle. Three circuits are made
Pure Land Buddhism, thus it may be seen as an instance of the joint practice of Chan and
Pure Land, which has marked Chinese Buddhism at least since the Ming Dynasty.
Pure Land practice centers around the recitation of the name Amitabha Buddha,
the Buddha who has vowed to bring those who call him into his Pure Land. The practice
was promoted in sixth century China as an appropriate form of practice for the age of
will become second nature and therefore easier to do at the moment of death when it is
thought to be most important to make contact with the saving grace of Amitabha. Nianfo
effective means of stopping the flow of thoughts and entering a state of samadhi or
meditative absorption.23 Amitabha's Pure Land is described in the Pure Land Sutras as a
land of trees and ponds of precious jewels, stones and metals that is "pure and serene,
resplendent and blissful."24 Once born there one is destined to achieve liberation in the
following birth. Birth in Amitabha's Pure Land has become the central goal of the
average Chinese Buddhist. The goal is achieved by nianfo, but also by generating merit
Given the relatively low rate of participation in daily services, the dining hall,
even more than the dharma hall where daily services are held, is a more important site of
communal monastic practice for it is the place where almost all the monks take their
meals on a daily basis ceremoniously and in silence, some using their own traditional
begging bowls. Meals are called by striking the wooden board in the shape of a fish
hanging outside the refectory. Once the monks have gathered in the dining hall the meal
time dharani is recited and a monk makes a ritual offering of rice to hungry ghosts on a
After feeding the hungry ghosts the meal may begin. Monastic discipline is on
display during meals more so than at other times. When I have observed monks in the
22
   East Asian Buddhism speaks of three ages of dharma of progressive degeneration, true dharma, the
image of dharma and the latter or degenerate dharma
23
    Zhuman or "stopping thoughts" using nianfo can bring about nianfo sanmei (Qin 2000 360-361)
24
   The Sutra on the Buddha of Infinite Light a k a The Larger Sutra on Amitayus or SukhavatTvyuha Sutra
(T 12 n.360), Hisao 2003 30-31
do not know if they are engaged in the five observances, but m their silence I'm sure
some of them are. The dining hall is traditionally referred to as the hall of five
observances: the observances or reflections deal with appreciating the labor that went into
providing the meal, being fit to receive it and using the food to sustain practice. The
proctor monitors to make sure that order is maintained in the hall; he strikes me as one of,
An unusual feature of meals in the dining hall at Kaiyuan is the absence of the
abbot.25 The abbot has a personal chef who prepares meals for him and his small staff of
clerics. As a guest of the abbot I too dined with the abbot and members of his staff. The
abbot's chefs (he has had three different ones from 2006 to 2009) are not professional
and the food produced in his kitchen is not necessarily any better than that in the dining
hall. At his evening meal, for example, he inevitably has a simple bowl of rice porridge
or congee (zhou)—a Chinese comfort food, par excellence, but nothing fancy. The
problem is the lack of communal solidarity that comes from not eating with the other
members of the sangha; it serves to weaken the ties between common and elite monks.
The latter frequently have the opportunity to take their meals elsewhere, with lay patrons,
at banquets or meetings and the abbot and the three or four monks who live in his
quarters never take meals in the dining hall. Meals with the abbot are typically times to
discuss matters of monastic business, news or other mundane affairs and thus one less
opportunity for contemplation, which monks dining silently in the hall of five
25
 Presiding over meals is traditionally one of the duties of the abbot I have seen the abbot of Balm
Monastery eating with the monks See also Welch 1967 148
in Chinese Buddhism, all meals served are vegetarian. The food is simple, typically
includes rice and three different dishes one of which is often Chinese cabbage, others
may be tofli or some other vegetables or soup. Breakfast includes soy milk, vegetables
and rice porridge. On special occasions they will have Chinese stuffed steamed buns
(baozi)—a crowd pleaser. The evening meal is referred to at Kaiyuan as dinner of hidden
[from ghosts] food (toushi wdncan im lltB&^S). Apart from the rule of silence and
ritualized dimension of the meals, the regular and communal nature is a powerful
regulatory force in the lives of the monks. It provides a kind of regularity that promotes,
in some sense, personal discipline and sets them up for success if they are motivated to
As the outline of the daily schedule indicates, the monks who are not responsible
for monitoring halls or accompanying visitors or dealing with administrative matters have
a good deal of free time. Monks use their free time in any number of different ways.
Some may engage themselves in mundane pursuits (reading the newspaper, browsing the
internet, playing computer games etc.). Others may be engaged in providing house calls;
that is, performing rituals away from the monastery. Monks who do this can earn as much
as 4,000 yuan a month, a high monthly salary in contemporary China. Others may be
engaged in some form of personal enrichment (music, calligraphy) or study. There is one
monk who is well disciplined and regularly circumambulates the courtyard of the Hall of
the Buddha's Life and the Buddhist museum. Some monks can be heard reciting sutras in
their rooms in the early morning. When I asked one of these monks what sutras he
26
  It is my understanding that they receive compensation for their service; in other words they are not
volunteers, unlike the cooks for free-noodle day on lunar twenty-six.
(Dizangjing). This same monk said he had previously read the Lotus Sutra and Flower
After coming to Kaiyuan there seems to be less time for self-study; monks assigned to the
Some may break their precepts (drinking, having sex/families, eating meat), but I
have no confirmation of this beyond the complaints or concerns of certain monks. Across
from the main entrance to the monastery is a sex shop and a few stores down is a place
that sells home-made alcohol; I have asked both stores if the monks buy much, in each
case the answer given was "not much" (buduo). This obviously doesn't mean that all or
even most monks do such things; but it suggest the possibility, if not likelihood, that
some do drink and carnally experiment. Regardless of what some monks may do in their
free time, I am confident that several monks at Kaiyuan are quite diligent, upright and
The same sounds of the bell ringing from the hall of the ordination platform,
followed by the booming of the drum, which welcome the dawn, will end the monastic
day from seven to seven-thirty in the evening. One day as I walked out after dinner, I
encountered two monks walking together, circumambulating the hall of the ordination
platform as they bell and drum were being sounded. It seemed to be part exercise, part
socializing and part religious cultivation. Circumambulating statues, texts, relics and the
schedule for meditation. From accounts of monastic life provided by Buswell (in Korea)
and Welch (in Republican period China), not to mention Gushan in Fuzhou, Hebei's
Bailin, Jiangsu's Gaomin and others in contemporary China, we know that traditions of
Chan training have and do exist, they simply do not, at present, exist at Kaiyuan. Why not?
The short answer is that there are not enough qualified teachers in China today and it is
not a priority of the current abbot; as suggested in the previous chapter, his priorities have
been tending to Kaiyuan's physical plant, raising money and maintaining good relations
The larger Buddhist monasteries in Quanzhou all have weekly public nianfo or
Buddha recitation days. At Kaiyuan these are held every Tuesday and Friday. The nianfo
sessions are held in the main hall, which enshrines the five monumental meditating
Buddhas of the five directions along with many other figures of the Chinese Buddhist
pantheon (see chapter six). In addition, this hall is the site of all of Kaiyuan's major
public ritual services such as the release of burning mouths (fangyankou) and various
rituals to eliminate disasters and bring benefits. Most significantly, however, it is the site
of the well attended twice-weekly Buddha recitation (nianfo) sessions and the monthly
Buddha recitation which accompanies the offering of free noodles on lunar twenty-sixth.
These gatherings of laypersons are significant because they are unusually large and attest
hundred lay devotees donning the dark brown or black robes of a layperson attend the
by more than two thousand devotees, including more than three hundred who wear the
robes of a layperson. The robes worn by laypersons are simply worn over their regular
clothes; typically, they unceremoniously change into and out of these robes in front of the
main hall. Approximately 95% of those wearing robes and regularly attending the twice-
weekly services are older women (lao taitai). Monks lead the laypersons in chanting the
{namo amituofo) as all participants circumambulate the main hall in "serpentine" fashion.
These services begin about 2:30 P.M. and last about an hour. When they are complete the
monks quickly file out of the hall and back to their dorms to change from their
ceremonial robes with bright yellow, to their regular robes of dull yellow or rust.
the fortnightly recitation of the Pratimoksa vows known as upsotha on the first and
fifteenth of the lunar month (new and full moon days). This is a tradition that has not
been important in China at least in modern times. Welch reports that he only knew of one
monastery where vows were recited.27 Kaiyuan does not have a tradition of reciting the
Pratimoksa, but they do expand the liturgy used in the morning and evening recitations
and more monks join the service at this time. On these days, monks file out of the dharma
hall and burn incense and pay their respects in the hall of patriarchs. Lay persons and
worshipers will also visit the temple, make donations, and burn gold paper in larger
27
     Welch 1967:110.
Once a month the monastery is crowded with thousands of worshipers and lay
Buddhists who come to participate in Kaiyuan's lunar twenty-sixth free noodles and
Buddha recitation day [Figures 81-84]. Locals say that the tradition was initiated by
Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu during the War against Japanese Aggression in the
1930s in order to alleviate the suffering of the locals. At that time, noodles were offered
daily, but now they are only prepared once a month, on lunar twenty-sixth. Regardless of
its precise origins, the tradition of offering free noodles once a month has been
institutionalized at Buddhist temples throughout the city of Quanzhou; each temple holds
their free-noodle/M/an/o day on different days of the lunar month. I visited a very small
temple restored by one of Kaiyuan's monks in the mountains outside of Quanzhou; there
were only two resident monks, but they had two huge woks and a gas burner set up
are hand-made by lay volunteers and dried in the open air by laying them on plastic tarps
which are strewn about the Shrine to Huang Shougong, the Hall of Patriarchs and
elsewhere. Preparation of the soup begins the evening before the big day and volunteers
involved in making the soup work all night preparing vast amounts of cabbage, bokchoy
and beansprouts along with preparing the soup stock and eventually boiling vast amounts
of noodles as dawn breaks. The noodles are prepared and cooked in a crude yet adequate
kitchen area at the back of the monastery. The front gate of the monastery, including the
28
  Still others have vaguely claimed that it was a practice that began during the Qmg dynasty, I have yet to
materially substantiate either tradition What is certain is that the local believe to be following a historical
precedent in offering free noodles
monastery is crowded with visitors, inside and out bearing offerings of flowers, fruit,
vegetables, noodles, snacks, candy, incense, candles and gold paper. Four long tables are
set up in two rows on the large platform that stretches before the main hall. Onto these
Visitors light sticks of incense using candles that are set out and lit by monks in
trays in the main courtyard in anticipation of the visitors. They bow to the four directions
and toward the main hall before placing the sticks of incense in the incense burner in the
main courtyard. The burner rapidly fills up and a monk is on duty to remove and
extinguish incense sticks to make room for more. Some individuals hold their incense at
their chest or foreheads, kneel on the stone pavement facing South, then North, absorbed
in prayer. Parents and grandparents can be seen instructing young children how to hold
incense, bow and sometimes kneel, socializing the next generation to these traditional
forms of worship.
Essentially all visitors on this day will offer incense at the front (five Buddhas)
and rear (Guanyin and Lohans) of the main hall and in front of the hall of the ordination
platform (Lossana, Weituo etc.). Monks or lay volunteers are stationed at each of these
locations to remove incense sticks from the incense burners to make room. Some visitors
will continue to the Dharma Hall, but practically none make it all the way back to Hall of
Patriarchs. Space in front of the ordination hall is not very wide and it becomes
extremely crowded on these days [Figure 83]. After offering incense and bowing to
29
   The hall of patriarchs only enshrines monks associated with the temple, there is no Bodhidharma or
Humeng as one often finds, this may be one reason for its lack of appeal Another reason, or perhaps cause,
is the lack of upkeep to this hall; the shrine case is very dusty and there is no active upkeep or care taken in
its presentation
paper in the furnace which lies immediately to the east. Worshipers will make cash
donations at each of the halls, and, in addition, at special tables set up to the east of the
main hall where their names and amount donated will be recorded. Donations at these
special tables are associated with the noodle soup that is offered and considered
auspicious; it is thought that one must donate according to one's means in order to
receive the benefit from eating the noodles. Visitors generally make donations well in
excess of the cost of the noodles and it is an important source of funds for the monastery.
Dana or charity is the first of the six "perfections" which Buddhist should strive to
cultivate. While all forms of moral behavior produce merit, making donations to the
donating to the sangha they are planting a seed in a "field of merit" and reaping great
merit in return.
The noodle soup is prepared in huge pots which are transported by cart from the
kitchen area to a largely open area between the main hall and the east pagoda. Ceramic
bowls are provided, washed and reused; people may also bring their own bowls and many
do. People stand in line waiting to be served noodle soup, which they take away to
somewhere east of the central axis. Hundreds of individuals are spread out, sitting here
and there, under trees, on steps and so on. Eating these noodles is thought to bring
blessings and these monthly nianfo days now attract thousands of visitors each month and
At 10:30 A.M. a Pure Land recitation ceremony, like the one held every Tuesday
and Friday, is held in the main hall. The only difference is the number of participants
inside the worshiping area of main hall, but about three hundred can. The major
difference, however, is that when they begin to circumambulate around the main hall they
will wind around the hall and then out the front doors. As they leave the main hall they
are divided into two lines which go to the east and west pagodas respectively before
meeting back in the main courtyard. Circumambulators will zig-zag around the courtyard
three or four times before meeting in the middle and returning to the main hall, chanting
all the while. After the initial group has left the main hall, the rest of the worshipers will
file into the lines as they fan out to the east and west. In this way any number of visitors
can join in the line of individuals led in reciting "homage to Amitabha Buddha" by
Kaiyuan's monks. Monks playing the wooden fish, inverted bell and chime remain in the
main hall chanting, the sounds being broadcast over loudspeakers. The more than two
courtyard is a tremendous sight of living faith and devotion in a country that has only
While the festive day usually begins at 4:00 A.M. on the twenty-sixth, in the lunar
months of January and March, the central doors of the main gate are opened at 11:00 or
11:30 P.M. on lunar twenty-fifth. Hundreds of visitors crowd around the entrance and
hundreds more gather in the streets out front. When the doors are opened the guests
to visit and make offerings on these days. The scene on the street in front of the
monastery and throughout the central axis is crowded, excited and carnival-like. Crowds
of worshipers stretch up and down the length of the street that runs to the south of the
sides of the street stretching beyond the entrance. Just inside the gate vendors at two
tables sell bags of traditional Minnan offerings known as five fruits, six vegetables
{wuguo liucai). People continue to pour in from the main gate from 11 P.M. until about 4
A.M. then, after a lull, visitors will begin to enter in large numbers from about 6 A.M.
onward. The routine is the same as any lunar twenty-sixth at Kaiyuan, just longer, more
people, more noodles, more volunteers, more donations, more offerings, more everything.
The level of energy on these nights, as well as on the morning of the first day of
the lunar new year, is high inside and outside the monastery. I have been told that
Quanzhou people like excitement and crowds {renao or in Minnan lau-jiat) and I
witnessed the Quanzhou fever for such during the Lantern Festival {yuanxiao jie) in 2009.
Near the Confucian Temple (wenmiao) in Quanzhou where a parade took place there
were crushing crowds that reminded me of crowds at Mardi Gras in New Orleans. This
love for excitement and crowds has been identified by Sangren (2000) as a feature of
Minnan religiosity associated with the goddess Mazu in Taiwan. Chau also identifies this
passion for excitement as one of the central features of popular religious life in Shanbei.
In the local Shanbei dialect they say honghuo %Llk, which he translates at "red-hot
sociality" (Chau 2006); Chau identifies this quality as a fundamental mark of success in a
religious festival, wedding or funeral, yes, red-hot social funerals (again reminds me of
New Orleans). Not only does it mark an event as successful, generating face and prestige
for the host, it contributes to the success of the event by forming an important component
of the affective experience. Sangren (2000) has identified this quality of crowds and
simply expressions of people's relationships with the deities; they at the same time
What these scholars have found with respect to the workings of popular religion,
bears on the power and success of these lunar twenty-sixth events at Kaiyuan. Worshipers
come because they seek blessings, Kaiyuan has a reputation as a place of spiritual
efficacy and that efficacy is said to be enhanced on these days. A visitor with this mindset
who arrives to an empty courtyard, would naturally question the efficacy of the
people vote with their feet. If the same visitor finds a courtyard bustling with people and
crowds jostling for positions in front of Lossana or Guanyin then the efficacy of those
beings is instantly manifest—why else would so many people crowd around them?
Quanzhou. It is the major source of income for monasteries and the major platform of
interaction between temples and their communities. Kaiyuan's lunar twenty-six nianfo
day brings from 3,000 to more than 10,000 visitors and remains a cornerstone of
(850,000 USD).31 Each Buddhist temple in Quanzhou, small or large, has its own
designated Buddha recitation day, held on a different day of the lunar calendar—the third
for Chengtian, the ninth for Southern Shaolin Monastery, the seventeenth for Same-Lotus
(Tonglian), the eighteenth for Chongfu, lunar twenty-six for Kaiyuan etc. Given the
30
  Chau 2006:165.
31
  Figure from interviews conducted in 2006 and 2009; income generated was certainly much less in the
80s and 90s.
layperson to attend these auspicious nianfo days every day of the year in Southern Fujian.
The most important days in the annual calendar all follow the lunar-solar calendar
which begins on the second new moon after the winter solstice. The annual events most
important at Kaiyuan and providing the most carnival-like atmosphere are the three days
marking Guanyin's birth (2/19), ordination (9/19) and passing (6/19), the Ghost Festival
(moulianjie, 7/15), and two Chinese (not especially Buddhist) festivals Qingming
Festival (traditionally tomb-sweeping day, 4/4) and Spring Festival ( Chinese New
Yearl/1-1/15). All of these festivals are marked with additional sutra recitations that may
span multiple days and a release of burning mouths ritual on the evening of the final day
of the festival. The birthday of the Buddha (4/8) is also marked by the bathing of a small
Buddha statue, but it is not a large event at Kaiyuan. Welch's informants mentioned the
same annual events with the exception of the Qingming festival; it may be that this
Signs are prominently posted inside the main gate introducing upcoming
ceremonies and the tremendous merit and benefits one will gain from participating,
sponsoring or otherwise donating at these times. The day marking the ordination of
Guanyin is celebrated over three days beginning on the nineteenth day of lunar
"Welch 1967.108-109.
thousand Buddha recitation ceremony is held in the main hall over three days.
Worshipers are invited to sponsor this ceremony at levels of five thousand or two
thousand RMB (700 to 300 USD) levels or participate at the fifty yuan (7 USD) level.
Individuals may register their names with monks in the main hall from about five weeks
preceding the ceremony. The names of the sponsors will be posted in the hall and they
The ceremony involves the chanting of the three thousand names of the Buddhas
using the Sanqianfo gongming boachan H^p life $£ 4=1 JiE'H1 over three days. A release of
burning mouths ceremony is held on the evening of the final day. Regularly holding these
multi-day ceremonies are said to generate tremendous (even limitless) amounts of merit
which the monks have the ability to transfer to those individuals supporting these rituals.
This merit can only be generated with a combination of ritual know-how and clerical
manpower—Kaiyuan, unlike most smaller temples, has plenty of both and is therefore
able to stage these ceremonies and bring in greater amounts of income while generating a
also translates into an opportunity to generate personal income for the monks involved in
performing the rituals—monks receive modest amounts of money for their participation.
Monks at Kaiyuan are all aware that ritual know-how is a profitable skill that one may
learn at Kaiyuan. This is one of the reasons that monks are attracted to Kaiyuan; it is also
the reason that other monks who prefer to cultivate knowledge or other forms of practice
are not attracted to Kaiyuan, which is rightly seen as not providing a systematically
deepen his knowledge of Buddhism and meditation and was frustrated to find that such
opportunities were lacking at Kaiyuan and therefore left It has also been suggested to me
that monks with less education from rural backgrounds are generally more eager to learn
and participate in ritual services while more educated or urbane monks try to rise up
Chinese New Year is marked with a 10,000 Buddha ceremony which involves the
chanting often thousand names of the Buddha over the first fifteen days of the lunar new
year (e g 2/18-3/4 in 2007) using the Wanfo hongming baochan 7l\%$<%i 3L \f (the first
chapter of the Sutra of Buddha Names \%\&\%%i± T 14, No 440) I was told that
monasteries traditionally use ten days for this recitation, but Kaiyuan stretches it to
fifteen Buddhas, bodhisattvas and dharma protectors are invited to come and the
chanting of the 10,000 names of the Buddha takes place in the main hall There are three
sessions of chanting in the morning and two sessions in the evening The chanting is
broadcast over loud speakers mounted on the mam hall and a loud, somewhat noisy
sound carries throughout much of the monastic complex, spreading a sonorous blessing
of "Buddhaness "
The ceremony is performed with the intention of bringing real and lasting peace
and happiness to all beings Lay Buddhists and worshipers are invited to make donations
in order to be recognized as official patrons of this grand ceremony and thereby earn
tremendous amounts of merit Those donating at the appropriate level will have their
tablets (luwei ? § j i or paiwei j$Hi) placed in the main hall. An informational sign is
posted at the gates and outside the main hall encouraging this form of patronage. The
signs explain that the tablets will bring prosperity and eliminate troubles (zhifu xioazai).
The signs detail all the benefits that will come to those who participate, most of which are
worldly in nature (health, wealth, success in career, smooth work etc) followed by a
statement of reasons more specifically Buddhist and religious in nature such as opening
the Buddha gate and renewing the power of the Dharma. Patrons are invited to participate
at different levels; one who sponsors the event with ten thousand, five thousand or two
thousand yuan is said to gain tremendous amounts of merit. Other levels of participation
are available for one hundred or five hundred yuan, but it is understood that the more one
There were hundreds of these red slips of paper in the hall when I was there in
2009. At the bottom of the informational sign is written "Quanzhou Great Kaiyuan
Monastery" and the contact names listed are all monks. This contrasts with other temples
in China where ritualistic activities may be organized and money collected by non-
monastics; such is not the case at Kaiyuan. Monks sit at a table just outside or inside the
main hall where patrons may register their names and make their donations. This process
begins about two months before the event takes place to enable patrons plenty of time to
earn a place in the main hall to accrue the benefits associated with the grand ten thousand
3^$xii>0 is held at 7:00 A.M. and a release of life ceremony at 9:00 A.M.
of birds, most often small birds in long rectangular cages, but once doves were released
and subsequently came to nest under the eaves of several buildings. The release of life
ceremony is conducted with eleven monks, five standing at each side of a small square
table set in the main courtyard and the lead monk standing at the head of the table,
leading the liturgy [Figure 86]. One monk plays a kind of tambourine, while others play
the wooden fish and cymbals. Monks wear yellow robes and chant; some follow along in
small liturgy books. On the square table sits a small statue of Guanyin with flower
offerings and a vase containing pure water and a willow branch. Behind the table is the
cage of birds. All the monks chant common chants such as the Great Compassion mantra
and the Heart Sutra; the lead monk sprinkles water on the animals using the willow
branch, bestows the dharma upon them and the triple refugee. At the conclusion of the
ceremony the cages are opened and the animals released. The first release of life
ceremony I watched did not turn out so well for some of the birds. The old ladies in
brown robes scrambled to tear open the cages, presumably to earn merit from being the
one to release the animals. In their zeal, however, several birds were maimed, some
seriously.
Sometime on the fifteenth day the tablets are all removed from the main hall in
preparation for the release of burning mouths ceremony (yuanman jixiang yankou MSM pf
W')& P ) , which is held on the evening of the final day of festivities. The release of
burning mouths (fang yankou) ceremonies are the most striking of all; they are held in the
evening and are more theatrical than any other [Figure 87]. The elaborate ritual begins
middle of the hall, high above the other monks, wearing the ceremonial five-pointed
Vairocana hat. All the monks chant the common sutras, mantras and verses (such as those
used in the daily services) throughout the ceremony. In addition they use a text called the
Burning Mouths Yoga (yujia yankou); guided by this text the leader chants almost
continually, and accents his chanting by forming mudras, sounding the dorje-topped bell
and holding the dorje (or vajra) and other instruments. Below the lead monk is a large
table at which sit six or ten monks, three or five on each side, facing one another. Each
participant has a copy of the ceremony book which they use to follow along. Several
monks ring dorje-tipped bells in unison. Another monk sits off to the side playing a large
drum and a small temple bell. Lay persons kneel in attendance and offer incense when
I have been told that the ceremony requires an odd number of monks; I take this
to mean that there should be an odd number of monks involved in recitation, which is
what I have observed. The instances of the ceremony that I have witnessed have had one
leader, six or ten accompanying reciters, one drummer, one hall monk and one assistant,
making a total often to fourteen monks. In 2006 I was told that a ceremony could be
commissioned for ¥3,000 (375 USD), most of which goes to the temple's general coffers.
During the ceremony two altars are erected outside; one is set with offerings of
fruit, incense and flowers for Guanyin, the other is set with offerings of food, oil, incense
33
  See Orzech 1989 for the Tang origin of the fang yankou ritual and Orzech 2002 221-225 for a detailed
description of the rite according to canonical sources.
under the cover of dark, marked by melodious chanting, punctuated by bells and drums,
makes quite an atmospheric feast for the senses. This tantric rite had been introduced
during the Tang Dynasty and has remained an important feature of monasteries to the
present day, in part for its ability to generate funds and in part by the demand for a
more informed monks, the lead monk, through tantric ritual, embodies Guanyin
bodhisattva and then descends to the realm of hungry ghosts, using mantras opens their
mouths and offers them food, drink and instruction in the dharma, so that they may be
released from their suffering. Thus the rite is called the "release [from suffering] of
[hungry ghosts with] burning mouths" who can neither quench their thirst nor satisfy
their hunger. It earns tremendous merit which those commissioning the rite typically
transmit to benefit departed family members. Rites like this one and several others are
performed regularly and add an unmistakable sense of living religiosity. Monks involved
Apart from the forms of religious activities that have been revived at Kaiyuan,
there remain import forms of religious cultivation that would have been present at
Kaiyuan as late as the Qing but have yet to be revived. One of the most obvious activities
formal Chan hall at Kaiyuan such as there is at Gaomin, Baolin and other monasteries in
China today, nor is there a scheduled time for practice such as there is at the afore-
recitation of Mahayana sutras. Kaiyuan monks regularly chant the Amitabha Sutra on
nianfo days and parts of sutras during the daily services, but they do not recite other
classic Mahayana sutras. Other monasteries, such as Gaomin, have a hall arrayed with
several rows of long tables, set with dozens of chairs and places to set sutras for group
recitation. They will recite sutras such as the Flower Ornament Sutra {Huayanjing) and
the Diamond Sutra (Jingangjing). A final activity that I have neither seen nor heard of
happening at Kaiyuan is the giving of a dharma talk by the abbot or any other monk, such
as would have occurred during the Republican period. The activities that have been
revived may be said to constitute the minimal form of communal practice required to
services).35 In addition to these are twice-weekly nianfo services open to the public
conducted by about a dozen monks and monthly nianfo services on lunar twenty-six.
Apart from these regular opportunities for personal-cultivation in a group setting, there
and laity and in the context of the annual festival calendar described above.
Non-Monastics
That monks rely on laypersons to support their vocation is a notion that is built
into the understanding of the fourfold Sangha comprised of monks, nuns, laymen and
34
   I have participated in meditation in the halls of Baolin and Gaomin Monasteries (2009) and I have been
told that weekly mediation takes place at Fuzhou Gushan by a monk who resides there.
15
   My understanding of this as the normative minimum is based on conversations with monastics.
kind of expectation that lived experience does not bear out, at least in the expected
manner Indeed, the monastics at Kaiyuan, are supported by donations, but it is difficult
to say that the donations are provided primarily by Buddhist laypersons Donations come
from worshipers, some of whom are laypersons, but most of whom have not formally
taken refuge and are not formally members of the Buddhist laity As found in the survey
by Yao and Badham they may offer incense to and bow before the Buddhas, but they are
not Buddhists The same individuals will go and exercise the same form of religious
behavior at temples to Guanggong, Mazu or the Jade Emperor, depending on the makeup
of their "personal pantheon " These are Kaiyuan's "incense guests" or worshipers, they
form the majority of Kaiyuan's visitors Several of Kaiyuan's monks decry the ignorance
of these people about Buddhism, they say that the worshipers believe in gods that have
nothing to do with Buddhism One monk has said that as recently as the late 90s
worshipers would bring ducks, chickens, he even saw a pig head being offered to the
Buddhas When he took the head away, a worshiper argued with him, he had to explain
that non-vegetarian offerings were not appropriate in Buddhism He says that people
seem to have gotten the message The first group of non-monastic patrons, then, are
worshipers
Worshipers
Among worshipers there can be distinguished three divisions, two of which are based on
maintaining a proper relationship with the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas These are those
who regularly come on lunar twenty-six and other major festivals, but who are not
Buddhists These individuals are locals who are drawn to the spiritual power of Kaiyuan
would estimate that at least eighty percent or more of these visitors are women aged forty
and up.
A second type of worshiper, also maintaining good relations with deities are
visitors and pilgrims who offer incense and bow to the Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. These
individuals come because they have a concern or problem and they seek spiritual aid
wherever it may be found, or they are travelers or pilgrims who stop by to have a look
and pay their respects. The main difference between this category of worshiper and the
first is the lack of frequency, which reflects a different kind of religious habitus or set of
practical circumstances (they may not be local, they may be less pious etc.).
A third type of worshiper comes to Kaiyuan with a specific need requiring ritual
action, either related to the death of a family member (chaudu) or a concern in one's
immediate life, it could be for success in a business venture, concern about a legal issue
or something else (xiaozai). Such rituals are most often commissioned by men, typically
businessmen [Figures 88-89]. Although they are employing the monks in ritual/liturgical
immediate and simple level and therefore reflecting the immediate-practical mode of
"doing" religion. They have a need and the monks will provide the service they request
("doing" religion in the ritual mode). Depending on the ritual requested, they may be
present for the performance of the ritual. In such cases monks will instruct them how and
These then are the three basic types of worshipers one finds at Kaiyuan and they
are best identified along the lines of how they "do" religion at Kaiyuan. It may be
a picture of this dimension of Kaiyuan's religious life. This brings us to the final category
Laypersons
While the majority of Kaiyuan's visitors are not lay Buddhists, there are certainly
Buddhists who are involved with Kaiyuan on various levels. I propose four types of lay-
relationships. The first are those associated with the monastery in various capacities.
There are non-monastics who work or volunteer at the monastery because they identify as
Buddhists and wish to be close to the monastery, offering it support. I know a handful of
individuals who fall into this category. These individuals give time and labor, more so
than donations. Their mode of practice is best categorized as relational; their support for
A second group are those who regularly join the twice-weekly nianfo sessions,
lunar twenty-sixth days and holidays. These are the older women, joined by the
occasional man, who dress in dark gowns and regularly attend nianfo sessions whenever
they are held at Kaiyuan [Figures 77, 80-81, 85]. They are engaged in personal-
cultivation; they are preparing to enter the Pure Land. They may not show great
reliable and strong presence at Kaiyuan's nianfo sessions provides a good deal of
credibility to the public religious role of Kaiyuan monastery. As many as ten monks are
regularly involved in leading these laypersons in the chanting of the Amitabha Sutra and
circumambulation. Copies of the sutra are provided by the monastery and stored in the
main hall for their use and there is no fee associated with joining these sessions. A
and dharma talks. The monks have no relationship with these persons, the monastery
A third group of laypersons are those Buddhists who regularly visit the monastery
on lunar twenty-six and other major festival days and on lunar first and fifteenth
whenever they can. These individuals do not dress in brown robes as their primary
interest is not nianfo. They are younger as a group and their mode of doing religion is
relational, maintain a good relationship with their faith by regularly recharging their
contact with the three jewel in a formal monastic setting. They regularly contribute to the
A final type of layperson are those who have cultivated relationships with certain
monks or the abbot and regularly visit with them; they may also take them to dinner.
Every religious organization has people who get involved with it on a personal level.
These Buddhists will have different ways of "doing" religion. Some are more interested
in Buddhist thought and may do religion in the discursive mode and enter into
discussions on various topics about Buddhist thought, practice, history or current events.
Others are interested in personal cultivation and find it inspiring to be near monastics and
enjoy cultivating a relationship with a member of the Sangha. Still others are more
(relational mode). Some of these lay Buddhists are invited to travel with the monks;
invited to special events or ceremonies at other locations. These invitations may be based
  These laypersons used to meet m a building behind the monastery proper but began to meet in the old
school auditorium m 2008
A subgroup of this final type are members of local and provincial offices of the
China Buddhist Association who have relationships with the abbot and higher-ranking
monks. They stop in to keep tabs on what is happening or to discuss an issue, meeting or
plan. The relationship with these individuals, however, perhaps significantly, does not fit
into any of the modes of doing religion; their relationships with the monks or abbot being
based on a bureaucratic basis are not about reverence, patronage or keeping some kind of
religiously-informed relationship.
The most common rituals that one may request at Kaiyuan and most other Buddhist
temples are funerary rituals (chaodu) and rituals to eliminate disasters (xiaozai). Rituals
to eliminate disasters are most typically requested by businessmen who have the means to
order such ceremonies and live in a cultural context where it makes sense to seek help in
one's ventures from the other world. Income from the performance of rituals, especially
funeral rituals, rites to eliminate misfortune and the release of burning mouths ceremony
were also said to bring in 4-5,000,000 RMB (500,000 to 650,000 USD) per year.37 Fang
yankou ceremonies are the most elaborate, they are performed between twelve and
twenty times a year. Funeral services involve the burning of elaborate paper houses and
other items to send to the dead; these ceremonies can cost up to 10,000 RMB (1,250 USD)
for the most fancy paper house [Figures 88-89]. There was once a family that requested
37
     Interviews conducted m 2006.
more than a year's salary for an average working individual). Famous historic
monasteries attract more of such business if, as they almost by definition are, considered
when commissioning ritual services, there is a steady flow of income from the burning of
"gold paper" (paper embossed with a thin sheet of gold) in one of two special furnaces
that stand next to the hall of the ordination platform. The paper burns and the gold falls to
the bottom of a pit below the furnace where it can be collected by the monastery and
resold. This is a common practice throughout Fujian and is said to be a significant source
                                                                                      TO
of income for temples be they Buddhist, Daoist or temples of folk deities. Gold paper
may be offered at anytime, even when a fire is not burning, in which case it will be
burned later. Special holidays and lunar twenty-sixth at Kaiyuan see the burning of piles
and piles of gold paper; it is also a common component of post-mortem rituals. The
the process of burning the gold paper is thought to be transferred to gods, ghosts or
ancestors and each of these beings is thought to have the power to bless the one making
the offering. Gold paper frequently has a Chinese character on it such as "fortune" or
"long-life" which is thought to be bestowed upon the one making the offering by the
deity or bodhisattva. The more educated monks frown on these practices as elements of
38
   According to one informant, Kaiyuan collects between 500 and 800 jm of gold per month (oneyzw is half
a kilogram) is said to be collected or about 4,000 kilograms of gold per year But I think there must be a
mistake in here somewhere, it seems like an awful lot Nevertheless, there is a significant amount of
income generated, but I suspect it shouldn't be more than the amount generated by tickets or donations on
lunar twenty-six which are each said to bring in about ¥6 milhon/yr (interviews, Quanzhou, 2006, 2009)
,9
   On paper offerings of all kinds see Scott 2007
Profiles of Monks
We have examined the schedules and activities of the monks, but we have yet to
meet any of them as individuals with a story. Brief profiles of five monks at Kaiyuan,
three high-ranking and two low-ranking, will give a sense of the range of motivations and
backgrounds one finds among a group of monastics in contemporary China. This will
introduce the individuals behind the robes who, to an outsider, are too often a
homogenous mass of monks. Names have been modified in the interest of maintaining a
measure of confidentiality, although none of these monks requested such anonymity. The
Dali
Dali was born in 1976 in southern Fujian and visited Kaiyuan as a youth; he
became a monk inl996. His mother was a Buddhist nun, but during the Cultural
Revolution she was forced into lay life; after the implementation of the new policy on
religion she returned to life as a nun with her own small temple. Dali's sister became a
Buddhist vegetarian auntie (caigu); in short, Dali's whole family has come to dedicate
Since childhood Dali has had poor health which has limited his livelihood options
to some extent. He tried his hand at business by opening a small retail store, but it was
not successful. It was after this failure that he decided to try life as a monk. He originally
thought he would try it for two or three years, but found that he enjoyed the life and has
handsome, thoughtful and good with people. He is so busy with administrative affairs
that he has practically no time for advanced-cultivation or study and his health remains
poor.
Farong
Farong was born around 1970; he is from Southwest China and does not speak the
local dialect. After graduating from college he became a teacher of Chinese at a middle
school in his home province. He didn't like it much, however, feeling that he was not
good at it because his personality is too quiet. He likes to travel independently and every
school holiday he traveled on his own. In China, tourist and travel destinations inevitably
holiday in 1997. At the time he was not happy about his work and he didn't like Chinese
New Year celebrations; he always felt they were crowded and noisy. He went to travel in
the mountains of Hunan. Staying in hotel, his roommate announced that he wanted to
become a monk. This person told him a lot about how good life as a monk is: they don't
need to worry about things such as food, money or clothes. His reasons were not about
Buddhism in particular, but about the lifestyle. Farong decided to become a monk along
with this other man. The two of them visited many large temples but none would take
parent's permission and so on. It is much easier to become a monk at a small temple that
has few monks, but they tried to go to big temples because his friend knew that life was
easier at larger temples; smaller temples require more physical labor. One temple let them
stay for a few days; it was there that Farong met a monk whose master was from his same
province and suggested this master might accept him as a disciple. Farong traveled two
Before Farong became a monk he didn't know much about Buddhism; just had
impressions from external rituals. His master was older, conservative and strict. He
instructed Farong which texts to read. He was the only monk ordained at his ordination.
Before ordination he had to take a test which required him to memorize large sections of
the morning and evening service book; he passed after one week of study. He is the only
son in his family (he has a younger sister) and his parents were not happy with his
decision at first, but they have come to accept it since he is happy. Farong has also risen
to a relatively high rank in the monastic hierarchy. He is one of the few monks with a
university education; he has a beautiful chanting voice and in 2006 he regularly chanted
Deru
Deru is from Fujian. He had a job in which he earned 75 RMB (9 USD) per week;
he switched to a job at a frozen meat factory where he could earn 1,500 RMB (200 USD)
per month. Although he could earn much more money in this job, he never liked working
with dead animals. One day his friend brought him to a temple where he learned
Buddhist and two years later he quit his job at the meat factory to become a monk. He
recalls the day his head was shaved as one of momentous change. He was thirty years old
and although he had had several girlfriends he was still single. He is now forty-five and
has risen to a high position in the hierarchy of Kaiyuan. He is loud and energetic and
When I first met Deru, he lived in his own room which included a private
bathroom. Like other monks of rank, he has his own washing machine and furnishings
that he has acquired, which include a wooden bed and matching tea table, made at a cost
of 5,000 RMB (625 USD). On the small low table is a hot plate for boiling water for tea
which includes a side for sterilizing cups. He has a computer with high speed internet
connection which sits on a simple desk. His speakers continually play the sounds of
instant messages being received on his QQ account which come in sets of three sharp
raps on a wooden door. One also continually hears the sounds of the Amitabha mantra
which plays over a small device which loops a recording of monks chanting to the
rhythm of wooden fish and bells. This device sits on a shelf which is part of Deru's
personal shrine which includes a golden Buddha, a photo of his master and an intricate
white porcelain sculpture. Most monks at Kaiyuan live in relatively spartan conditions; I
mention these more luxurious conditions because they are shared to some degree by most
of the higher ranking monks at large monasteries, at Kaiyuan there are less than a dozen
Anlu
him a shot in his rear or put an I.V. in his arm that hadn't already been poked. His
principle complaint was a hardened part of his neck. The medicine prescribed for him
cost 100 RMB (12 USD) per month which was too much for his family to afford. It was
also said that for a person in his condition the best treatment would be to live as a monk
in a temple, so he became a monk at the age of fifteen. He continued the medicine for one
month then stopped taking it as his health improved and the hard area on his neck had
cleared up.
He came to Kaiyuan because he hoped to learn more than he was learning at the
small temple in the South which was how to play dharma instruments in ceremonies and
not much else. He had practiced meditation from three months at another monastery and
wished to continue his practice, but found the conditions unsuitable at Kaiyuan. He was
disappointed with the lack of opportunities for study and meditation at Kaiyuan and he
passed time practicing calligraphy before leaving for another temple after a year and half.
He struck me as a young, earnest monk who wanted to practice and study Buddhism but
Bulin
He is the only son in his family and at the age often he decided he wanted to
learn martial arts; his parents couldn't stop him from going to Shaolin Temple to study.
He planned to stay half a year; it was harder than he expected and he thought about
running away. Some older students had run away; he thought it was because they knew
how to run away, at ten he was too young to figure out how to escape. He could have
did when he went back home was to take a bath with his Dad; when his Dad saw his legs
bruised and his back with red marks all over it his Dad couldn't conceal his tears. When
he went back home, his mom, sisters, aunt, everyone in the family who saw his bruises
cried and tried to stop him from returning to Shaolin Temple. But feeling that after half a
year he was just getting started, he didn't want to waste the pain he had endured; he also
He first studied mastered the basics of elementary kungfu (tongzi gong ML~f'~$$)\
at the age of fourteen he began to study the use of weapons. Over the years he has
traveled and performed all over China and Southeast Asia. When he turned seventeen he
became a kungfu instructor but he didn't like the pressure, the workload or his boss who
was tough on him and blamed him if anything went wrong. Some monks began to joke
with him that his head was already shaved, why didn't he become a real monk where life
was much easier? Bulin confessed, "To be honest that is the only reason I wanted to
become a monk. I didn't know anything about Buddhism. I saw with my own eyes that a
monk could receive a red envelope (hongbao) containing 2000 RMB (250 USD) just for
burning a tall stick of incense for someone!" He couldn't believe it; the life of a monk
After a few years life was so easy that he got bored. He wanted to travel, try
another place; a friend introduced him to Kaiyuan. In 2006, he, like other regular monks,
was paid a stipend of a little over 900 RMB (115 USD) per month. He has no regrets
about becoming a novice, but he feels that his life has been so easy and comfortable that
While the five profiles presented above constitute a small sample, together they
present several patterns that are worth noting. Two of the five were sickly children; one
of these become a monk because of his condition and the prohibitive cost of treatment.
Four of the five were dissatisfied with the occupations in which they were engaged
immediately before becoming a monk—one's business failed, the others were unhappy
for various reasons. Two were partially influenced in their decisions to become monks by
visiting Buddhist temples; a third by living at a temple when he was studying martial arts.
Two were influenced by casual remarks made to them about becoming a monk. Only two
of the five had much experience with Buddhism before becoming a monk, the others
knew very little about the religion apart from superficial impressions. Two admit being
attracted by the promise of a life of ease. This latter motivation is, I suspect, one that
enters into the minds of the majority of Kaiyuan's monks and monks across China. It is
first half of the twentieth century (twenty-eight from interviews and eleven from
documentary sources). Of these cases thirteen had some failure or disappointment and
sought to escape the secular world, six had been ill as children, six had been orphaned,
six liked monks and the atmosphere of monasteries, four were interested in Buddhist
study and practice, two were persuaded by relatives who were monks, one wanted
supernormal powers and one felt hated by his parents. The reasons provided are
comparable to the reasons of the small sample from Kaiyuan. The most common reason
40
     Welch 1967 258-269
Kaiyuan's monks had been ill and two were partially influenced by enjoying the
atmosphere of monasteries and one was influenced by family members in the sangha. The
only different reason of note provided by Kaiyuan's monks, not recorded by Welch was
desire for an easy life. This reason is superficially similar to a desire to escape the secular
world, but remains more solidly of the world—an easy material life, as opposed to a life
of freedom from secular cares. Apart from this possible difference related to a more
materialistic outlook, the other reasons suggest a good deal of consonance between early
twentieth century motivations to join the sangha and late twentieth century.
Georges Dreyfus, who studied for fifteen years as a monk among the Tibetan
community in Dharamsala, India, notes that "scholars (dpe cha ba) followed a strict
schedule throughout their scholarly training," while "most monks (grwa mang) lead a
relatively easy life."41 Thus in the Tibetan Gelukba tradition there is a split between the
scholar-monk core and the rest of the monastic body. A similar split existed in pre-1950s
Tibet as well. Goldstein describes two broad divisions among monks at Tibet's largest
monastery, Drepung: those engaged in formal study of Buddhism, the "scholar monks,"
and those who were not. The former accounted for about 10% of the monastic
population. At Kaiyuan this would mean eight of the monks would be part of this elite
group. Goldstein relates that the other monks were often illiterate and apart from some
41
   Emphasis added. Dreyfus provides no details about the life of "most monks." He trained as a scholar-
monk and that is the life he describes in detail. Dreyfus 2003 65
42
   Goldstein 1998 21
because there were no communal meals nor a sufficient stipend provided by Drepung.44
the meditators were separated from the rest of the monastic body to focus on meditation.
Dreyfus provides a detailed account of the training of the scholar monk, but almost no
information about the lives of "most monks." One thing common to monks in the Tibetan
tradition is a trial period designed to instill self-discipline; Dreyfus describes the trial
period as a kind of "boot camp," which could last several years. I spoke to no monks in
China who mentioned anything about a rigorous trial period; some were required to
memorize most of the daily service, but that was to become ordained. Kaiyuan's monks
generally fit into the category of "most monks" described by Dreyfus as leading "an easy
life." What Kaiyuan and most other monasteries in China, are missing, however, is a core
of monks receiving rigorous training. This lack of rigorous training is related to a lack of
qualified, able-bodied and ambitious leaders, especially in the early years of recovery.
There is a kind of monk that was not included among these five who is a common
type at temples across China. This monk is much like Bulin who was attracted to a life of
ease, but unlike Bulin they are not masters of Kungfu, but they become, also unlike Bulin,
masters of ritual, through which they supplement their monthly stipends. Some of these
monks develop an interest in Buddhism, but others, if they are not kept in line through
4j
     Goldstein 1998:21.
44
     Goldstein 1998-21.
Who are Kaiyuan's monks? Some are very serious, most are not; some are
knowledgeable about Buddhism, most are not; many specialize in rituals, others in
administrative tasks; some paint, write calligraphy or play the Chinese zither (guqin "fi"
^ ) , others have no special abilities. The different profiles of monk that one finds at
Kaiyuan and other monasteries reflect both the needs of monasteries and the vagaries of
human ability and circumstance. A monastery must have administrative types and those
who may serve in that capacity are often neither scholars nor contemplatives. If the
monastery is to maintain a good reputation it must also have monks who are, or present
themselves as, devout. If it is to meet the needs of a community that demands rituals it
must also have monks with the ritual expertise and the willingness to serve them; such
monks often have little or no time for self-cultivation. These few comments, applicable to
any time or place, have already begun to bring monks down to a less idealized plane of
Unqualified Monks
Chinese temples are being rebuilt at a pace that many observers agree exceeds
China's ability to train qualified monks to staff them. The narrative that I have heard
from monks and laypersons alike runs as follows: Chinese Buddhism has suffered a
45
  Whatever disregard for precepts that monks at Kaiyuan may have is neither open nor wanton, so if they
drink alcohol, eat meat or have sexual relations, which I surmise that some do, it is not done openly and I
have not been privy to such errant behavior
liberation (1949) up to about 1979, some thirty years. Recovery began in the late 70s and
was helped along with the recovery of the religion policy {huifu zongjiao zhengce).47
During the period of religious suppression there were no active monks, without monks to
serve as models and teachers, recovery began without sufficient guidance. When
restrictions against religious practice were eased and temples began to be recovered for
religious use, there were simply too few qualified monastics to tend these newly re-
opened temples; as a result, there was a lowering of standards (jiangdi biaozhun) and
many uneducated and marginally suitable individuals became ordained monks and moved
into temples; many of these even assumed positions of leadership.48 A good number of
people ordained as monks did not have a firm belief in Buddhism or understanding of its
principles making it easier for them to break precepts or make mistakes (rongyifanjie,
rongyifan cuowu).
Why, one may wonder, would someone ignorant of Buddhism want to shave their
head and enter the order? Some of the questionable reasons for entering a monastery
include fleeing a marriage that has soured or a business that has failed. Others may be
attracted to what they see as an easy life or even a path of socio-economic advancement,
46
     ^mi-wmm
48
    The most scandalous result of this situation, if verified, would be the existence of clergy who are married
(and have children). This has been the suggestion I have received from good authority, but not having been
able to verify it or even corroborate with additional testimony, I leave it, for now, restricted to this note.
 49
    ^?J§<fBJt£> 3§r H<fEfi=fil;. If monks are, in fact, wantonly breaking precepts, this would be a serious
danger to the viability of their monastery Maintenance of monastic discipline, in other words, keeping the
precepts or at least the appearance of keeping the precepts, has long been the most important factor in
maintaining the public's support of the monastic order In her study of Ming dynasty Buddhism, Yii Chun-
fang notes that "it was the monks' failure to keep discipline that always evoked the ire of the public, while
their lack of doctrinal originality or intellectual brilliance was apparently a matter worthy of little
comment" (Yu 1981 143-144 ) I concur that monastic discipline trumps doctrinal knowledge or
meditational accomplishment in the eyes of the public
presented and are assumed to be poor motivations for a religious life But I will maintain
that they are not, in themselves, damning They are primarily damning to an idealized
view of what monks should be A natural counter to this might be, aren't monks supposed
to conform to an ideal type' To such a concern, I would reply, yes, and add that in some
minimal sense, Kaiyuan's monks do conform to the monastic ideal If there are problems
with monastic discipline they are not flagrant or public Monks at Kaiyuan maintain
shaved heads, they where robes, monastic slippers, regularly eat vegetarian meals, live
away from home and family and live in a devotional environment that inevitably rubs off
on them to some degree Monks conform to some measure of the ideal monk-type and in
doing so they become different from non-monastics Even if being a monk is perceived
as a kind of job and if Kaiyuan is seen as service provider, as a purveyor of merit and
focused on Tiantong Monastery entitled "Sacred Economies " Without going into all the
details of his multi-layered argument, he proceeds to argue that monasteries are sacred
represent "sacred economies " He begins by pointing out the economic nature of
monasteries
Monasteries saw survival as a paramount goal, the survival of Buddhism was seen
to rest on the survival of the Sangha The is understandable enough The question
that Walsh asks is how did Buddhists get land owners to donate their lands'? In
short, they offered a precious product in exchange, merit They convinced the
elites that being a good Buddhist meant donating land to the Sangha We have
seen how Kaiyuan, today, elicits donations during festival periods by promising
relationship
relations are the normative raison d'etre of the monastic sangha and should
for personal cultivation These intra-clergy relations are the true core of the
religious life of the monastery This chapter has described the daily schedule of
the monks marked by morning and evening periods of group practice (zao wan
ke), framed by morning and evening bells and drums and interspersed with three
communal meals m the dining hall This constitutes the daily communal practice
311
      Walsh 2010 6
cultivation such as reciting sutras in one's room, studying sutras on one's own,
assets, its reputation for spiritual efficacy and relations with the state.
Brian J. Nichols
                        A THESIS SUBMITTED
                  IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE
                  REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE
Doctor of Philosophy
                         HOUSTON, TEXAS
                           APRIL 2011
                         RICE UNIVERSITY
                          Brian J. Nichols
                        A THESIS SUBMITTED
                  IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE
                  REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE
Doctor of Philosophy
                                Richard J. Smith
                                George & Nancy Rupp Professor of Humanities
                                and Professor of History
                         HOUSTON, TEXAS
                           APRIL 2011
CHAPTER SIX
        In the hall was a golden statue of the Buddha eighteen Chinese feet high,
        along with ten medium-sized images—three of sewn pearls, five of woven
        golden threads, and two of jade. The superb artistry was matchless,
        unparalleled in its day. .. .The monastery had over one thousand cloisters
        for monks., .decorated with carved beams and painted walls. The doors,
        painted in blue designs, had carved windows. The beauty of the cloisters
        was beyond description.
                                               -Yang Xuanzhi WfolZ- (547 C.E.)
        Along the base [of Kaiyuan's east pagoda] are carved greenstones (qing shi i=f5).
        Their magnificent beauty is effortless and sublime (huajing VcJ^), fine and
        vigorous. It is supernatural work of divine chisels (guigong shenfu %JLffl^) that
        cannot be accomplished through human power.3
                                               -Yuanxian (1643)
of suffering that arises associated with attachment to such impermanent things and a path
In China, those treading this path in the most typical sense are individuals who have "left
home and family" to pursue these lofty ideals in monastic settings. But monastic settings
1
   Yang Xuanzhi WfeiZ- Luoyang qielan /IrPEHJPlliE!, translated by Wang Yi-T'ung jEf^lW] m Buddhist
Monasteries in Lo- Yang, p 16
2
  This is my translation of an excerpt from a famous poem attributed to Hanshan, a famous, possibly
legendary, Tang dynasty monk A bilingual Chinese-English record of the poem can be found in Porter,
Bill (Red Pme) 2000 The Collected Songs of Cold Mountain Port Townsend, WA'Copper Canyon Press,
pp 52-53
3
  Sizhi I 8a
are often not what one might expect from individuals seeking liberation from worldly
China has attracted critics since the fifth century who have pointed out the incongruity
between the accumulation of material wealth and the Buddhist path of renunciation.4
With two Song dynasty stone pagodas that soar above the surrounding neighborhood and
a grand Ming Dynasty hall with five larger than life gilded Buddhas, Quanzhou Kaiyuan
has an unusual share of both pomp and endurance. The grandeur of the painted and
carved beams and the splendor of gilded statues at Kaiyuan and countless other Chinese
monasteries make a not too subtle contrast with Buddhist ideals of simplicity and
If we take the forest monk or mountain ascetic as ideal monastics, then ornate
gilded images and the lofty pagodas covered with icons from a Protestant-informed bias
against externals we too will reject them as spiritually inconsequential and unworthy of
attention.5 A distinct lack of attention to material culture has, in fact, been common
among scholars of religion who have tended to focus on creedal and doctrinal features of
religion.6 This chapter joins the growing body of scholarship on religion and material
4
   See Kieschnick 2003: 12-14 for discussion of Chinese critiques of monastic wealth. The Guang hongming
ji MBL^M^k for example contains the critique of Xun Ji (d. 547) who called for monks to beg according to
 the Buddha's instruction rather than erect elaborate monasteries and store up wealth (Guang hongming ji
 7.128c-131b; trans, in Chen 1964.187). In addition to critiques on moral grounds there were critics on
 socio-economic grounds as well A memorial by Governor Xiao Muzhi of Danyang in 435 complained of
 the economic stress caused by the inordinate number of stupas, monasteries, paintings and statues (Guang
 hongmingji 6 127b) cited in Gernet 1995 15, 321 nt. 75
 5
   See Kieschnick 2003 19-23 for a discussion of a Protestant bias against material objects in the study of
 religion
 6
   Morgan 2010 xiv
prominence in the physical presence of the monastery, in modern (tour guides, Ecke and
Demieville 1935, Wang 1992, Wang 2008) and pre-modern (Yuanxian 1643) literature
about the monastery and in local Quanzhou discourse. In addition, Buddhist monasteries
and cultural properties are an exceptionally prominent feature of Asian heritage; one can
Chapter five raised the problem of the traditional scholarly focus on "belief in
the study of religion and argued that practice or action served as a more revealing locus
for discussing the religious life of the monastery. While the focus on belief and doctrine
has also prevented scholarly engagement with the material dimensions of religion, David
Morgan has attempted to shift the scholarly conversation: "Rather than marginalizing
belief, we need a more capacious account of it, one that looks to the embodied, material
material objects, not apart from belief, but as an expression and enabler of it. Kaiyuan's
cultural properties will be found to exist in a variety of modes, one of which is a setting
  The study of Buddhism has begun to redress this imbalance and several books have emerged with a focus
on material culture; these include Gregory Schopen's work (1997, 2004), Living Images by Elizabeth
Horton Sharf and Robert Sharf (2001), John Kieschnik's The Impact of Buddhism on Chinese Material
Culture (2003), Germano and Trainor's Embodying the Dharma (2004), Fabio Rambelli's Buddhist
Materiality A Cultural History of Objects in Japanese Buddhism (2007) and Karen Gerhart's Material
Culture of Death in Medieval Japan (2009)
8
  Buddhist temples and art, especially in their grandeur, age or elegance, are featured attractions throughout
Asia Some of the more famous and grand sites are the stupa at Sanchi in India, the Potala and Jokhang m
Tibet, Borobudur m Java, Angkor Wat and environs in Cambodia, Wat Phra Kaeo at the Royal Palace in
Bangkok, the temples of Pagan in Burma, Hemsa in South Korea and many famous temples and gardens in
Japan (especially in Kyoto, Nara and Kamakura)
9
  Morgan 2010 7
ritual actions. My analysis seeks to understand the active role of cultural properties in
arousing emotional responses and encouraging certain types of behavior. This approach
virtuosi, which ignores the physical structures, setting and discourses that form an
important part of what a monastery is. James Robson notes the inadequacy of "a
perduring tendency to discuss them [monasteries] as mere 'containers' for the actions of a
religious community."10 He points out that the "container model," which is Aristotelian,
has been critiqued by cultural geographers and philosophers of place and that productive
implicit) of this model.11 While the preceding chapter examined the religious actors
inside the monastery, this chapter, as well as the following one, extends the examination
properties and their role in the life of the monastery, let's review the broader context of
The use of cultural properties to beautify Buddhist monasteries and attract visitors
and patronage may be as old as the institution of the Buddhist monastery. The Jetavana
monastery, near Savatthi in India, is held by tradition to be the first Buddhist monastery
established. The historical Buddha is said to have retreated there during the rainy season
and sutras designate it as the location of many of his sermons. It served as the model for
10
   Robson 2010b:47.
1
 ' Robson 2010b:47. Studies on European monasticism from this perspective include R. A. Markus' The
End ofAncient Christianity (1998) and Am Remensnyder's Remembering the King's Past: Monastic
Foundation Legends in Medieval Southern France (1995).
other monasteries and is, in short, the iconic Buddhist monastery. Ancient texts speak
not of austerity, however, but of its beauty, both natural as well as humanly wrought.13
Jetavana beautification plans to the Buddha himself. The text tells how the Buddha
beautify Jetavana and suggests how the artwork should be arranged. The text concludes
the construction of this iconic Buddhist monastery with the following observations:
This passage, celebrating the finishing of the Jetavana monastery, does not laud
the completion of halls for meditation (samadhi), spartan cells for monks to keep their
precepts (Ma) or didactic features to promote the dharma (prajna). Instead it focuses on
the "various sorts of colors and paintings" that made the monastery "remarkably fine"
thus attracting "hundreds of thousands of people" who came to admire this new marvel.
What the MS Vinaya indicates and what archeological discoveries in India have
12
   Puay-Peng Ho examines how the eminent Tang monk Daoxuan used the Jetavana monastery to create a
template of the ideal Buddhist monastery (Ho 1995) His article also examines some of the doctrinal
significances of the monastery buildings and their layout as conceived by Daoxuan
13
   The iconic nature of the Jetavana in China is evidenced by large numbers of inscriptions associated with
the building or repair of monasteries that reference Anathapmdada's gift of the Jetavana (Kieschnick 2003
191)
14
   While the Mulasarvastivada vinaya was likely redacted some centuries after the Buddha, it has been
dated to at least the time of Kaniska (fl 130 CE) and may be a century or more earlier It records then, rules
for how monasteries were to be operated in India before and during the time that Buddhism began to
penetrate the Chinese cultural sphere See Schopen 2004 20-22
15
   Ksundrakavastu, Derge Tha 262b 4 of the Mulasarvastivada vinaya, trans in Schopen 2004 35
Schopen notes the wealth, durability and artistic sophistication of Indian Buddhist
monasteries to which the archeological record attests and asks, "Why?" Indeed, what is
going on here? What is behind this will to permanence and beauty? Buddhist monasteries
in China (and all over Asia) offer a provocative parallel. The earliest and most impressive
material artifacts that are valued as works of art in China and most other Asian countries
are primarily found at Buddhist sites.17 The earliest of these finds are the sculptures of the
Mogao Caves MMM of Dunhuang WtM (from the fourth to the fourteenth centuries), the
Yungang Grottoes z J N 5 ^ in Shanxi LUI§ (from the fifth century) and the Longmen
impressive and important remains of the Tang Dynasty are the clay sculptures found at
Nanchan Monastery f^j ill^F and Foguang Monastery ifyjfc^? in Shanxi lilffi, the Leshan
16
   Schopen 2004: 19.
17
   Of course tombs such those of the imperial houses of Qin and Han in Xi'an have produced important
artefacts which predate the Buddhist relics. These items, however, were not intended for viewing and
enjoyment by the living, but as part of Chinese burial practices. They make important tourist attractions
today, but that was not their original intent, unlike the decorative elements of Buddhist monasteries.
18
   For more on these sites see: Yungang Shiku wenwu baoguansuo. 1991. Yungang Shikul           TX^I^M.
Beijing: Wenwu chubanshe; Peng, Huashi. 1982. Dunhuang mogao ku$X'!fM.MMM- Beijing: Wenwu
chubanshe; Wang zhenguo. 2006. Longmen shikuyu luoyangfojiao wenhua ~M\l'5M^i'l&^i%$k3C{k.
Zhengzhou: Zhongzhou guji chubanshe.
century treasures found at Xi'an's Famen Monastery £fefl# in the 1980s.19 Examples
Cambodia, Heinsa Temple in South Korea, temples and gardens in Kyoto and Nara, the
Thailand. For ascetics who preach that all things are impermanent, in other words,
Buddhist monasteries not only have an impressive ability to survive, but also exhibit a
Yang Xuanzhi, the author of the sixth century record of Luoyang's monasteries. He
writes:
monasteries, the MS Vinaya suggests what functions such ornate structures may have had
19
   For Foguan Monastery see Shanxi Sheng gujianzhu baohu yanjmsuo. 1984. Foguang si \%^t^. Beijing-
Wenwu chubanshe. On Famen Temple's treasures see Shi Xingbang and Wei Han. 1988. Famensi digong
zhenbao (Precious cultural relics in the crypt ofFamen Temple). Xi'an' Shanxi renmin meishu chubanshe.
20
   There are lessons of impermanence tied to this will to beautify as well A most dramatic example is the
meticulous construction of sand mandalas by Tibetan monks only to "destroy" them soon after their
completion (Thanks to Jianymg for suggesting this contrast). Less dramatic is the constant maintenance
required to keep a Japanese garden tended, the weeding, the pruning, the sweeping, the rakmg of pebbles
and so on require continual attention due to the pressures of time on what we vainly seek as permanent
   From Yang Xuanzhi's preface to the Luoyang qielanji /^HHflnHlil! Translation by Yi-t'ung Wang m
Yang 1984 5-6
how the embellishment of monasteries allowed them to attract donors and inspire
donations. The MS Vinaya does not explicitly state this as the main reason for
beautification to be carried out, but there is, it seems, a regular enough association
between accounts of captivatingly beautiful monasteries and the attraction of donors that
such a message would not have been lost on the monks who learned this text.22 The
passage cited earlier regarding the Jetavana demonstrates how beautiful monasteries
could attract visitors. Schopen has collected several other references to the beautification
of monasteries which include examples of the attendant riches such beautification could
attract. In one passage traveling merchants passed by monasteries and marveled at their
"high arched gateways.. .latticed windows, and railings" which were "like stairways to
heaven."23 These merchants were "deeply moved" {dadpar 'gyur te) and made an
"offering feast" {mchod stori) for the Sangha.24 In another passage merchants are
similarly impressed with beauty of an abandoned monastery and promptly set about
endowing it with alms for sixty monks for three months with a promise to return and
endow it for one hundred monks. Citing these instances and alluding to others in the
settings, to paintings on monastery walls and on cloth.. .But in virtually every case these
references refer as well—in one way or another—to the gifts and donations that such
22
   The MS Vinaya was translated into Chinese around the year 700 by the Buddhist pilgrim Yijing %'{$
(635-713), it was the fifth complete vinaya to be translated into Chinese and was never to receive as much
attention as the Four-Part Vinaya (sifen hi) of the Dharmaguptaka (Yifa 2002. 6-7)
23
   Vibhanga,Derge 156b 4 Translation in Schopen 2004 32
24
   Ibid
23
   Vibhanga, Derge 184a 1 Translation and discussion in Schopen 2004 31-32
monastery also serve, in the eyes of the MS Vinaya, as a means to generate donations 27
My study of Kaiyuan monastery supports the notion that cultural properties assist
the monastery in raising funds, but I wish to penetrate more deeply into this phenomenon
so that we may be able to determine a wider range of roles that cultural properties may in
fact play at this site as well as how cultural properties inspire patronage While Schopen's
inquiry is limited to the study of the archeological record, inscriptions and manuscripts, I
am able to investigate the question of how by taking into account a further stratum of
data, namely the ethnographic data gleaned from my fieldwork at Kaiyuan Interviews
and observations carried out over a five year period at Kaiyuan have provided me with
insight into the importance of Kaiyuan's cultural properties and how they are viewed by
monks, laypersons, visitors and other members of the community I have tried to
determine what features of Kaiyuan are considered most important and why I have
asked questions such as "What makes Kaiyuan different from other monasteries7" or "In
your opinion, what are Kaiyuan's most important cultural properties (or heritage) and
Kaiyuan's pagodas, halls and trees were always included among Kaiyuan's most
as well as to the historic and cultural value of the monastery and play a crucial role in
attracting tens of thousands of visitors per year, almost all of whom contribute in some
fashion to the maintenance of the monastery The very fact that visitors take such an
interest in the monastery in turn provides authorities with a reason to seek its preservation
26
     Schopen 2004 31
27
     Schopen 2004 36-37
centuries old are not only objects of aesthetic enjoyment, they are cultural treasures that
require preservation.
survival and its impressive restoration, its cultural properties have played a central role.
Most noteworthy in this regard are Kaiyuan's Song dynasty stone pagodas. Not only do
they serve as the markers of a Buddhist monastery, but they also contribute to its historic
and cultural value which has brought it protection from the state.28 Apart from the
In her study of Tanzhe Monastery, a large monastery that lies outside of Beijing,
Susan Naquin notes that it survived the Cultural Revolution and asks, "What were the
secrets of Tanzhesi's success? This essay has suggested we should look at the
interconnected dynamics of antiquity, sanctity, and scenery, all of which played their part
in shaping the physical structure, visual and written record, and personal memories of
literature from the Qing Dynasty onward focus on the physical and historic features of the
temple such as its buildings, views and trees.30 My study of Kaiyuan supports her general
findings; it too has been promoted as a place of history and culture since the end of the
Ming dynasty and it was this identity, predicated on material culture, that enabled its
28
   Similarly, Tracy Miller credits the survival of the Jm Memorial Shrine to the presence of the Northern
Song dynasty Sage Mother Hall which was recognized a important heritage in 1961 (Miller 2007 103)
29
   Naquml998 205
™Naqum 1998
enabled? We are now prepared to examine Kaiyuan's specific culture properties and
reflect on the individual roles they play at the monastery today. This will be followed by
a consideration of the collective impact of Kaiyuan's material culture on the life of the
monastery. We begin with the most prominent and important properties, the Song
dynasty pagodas.
monastery in East Asia, that feature would have to be the pagoda. Eugene Wang,
historian of Asian art, has noted that Buddhist monasteries aspired to be Utopias and
suggested that "To this end, certain distinctive architectural features and signposts—in
particular, the heavenward aspiring pagoda—imbue the precinct with religious overtones
to make the enclave nothing short of a monastery. There is hardly a Buddhist monastery
without a pagoda."31 I agree that Kaiyuan's pagodas are distinctively Buddhist and
revived sangha.
As discussed in chapter two, Kaiyuan's east pagoda was first constructed in 865
while the west pagoda was first built in the year 916. Having been destroyed and rebuilt
several times, the current east and west pagodas were completed in 1250 and 1237
respectively and rise to a magnificent height of some one hundred and fifty feet [Figures
31
     Wang 2010:65.
monumental construction in wood may be found in Japan at the Great South Gate
(Nandaimon) of Nara's Todaiji.34 Due to their similar height and appearance, Kaiyuan's
east and west pagodas are often called the twin towers {shuang ta M.tfz), or the Purple
Cloud Twin Pagodas (ziyun shuang ta j^^M'Pa)- The reference to purple clouds alludes
back to the founding of the monastery in the seventh century when an auspicious purple
cloud covered the ground during the construction of the main hall; since then, the
relief depicting figures from Buddhist history and lore such as arhats, patriarchs,
bodhisattvas, eminent monks and guardians. Among the more noteworthy figures are
sculptures of the monkey king, Sun Wukong ?/Jv||j5? [see figure 32], and Guanyin
and, on the east Pagoda, a potbellied Xuanzang accompanied by a small monkey figure
[Figures 32-33]. The greenstone reliefs along the base of the East Pagoda are especially
scripture they disclose. Writing about these sculptures in 1935, the eminent Buddhologist
Paul Demieville practically gushed, "Such a vivid and comprehensive 'Bible de pierre'
The West pagoda received its name after an auspicious green and yellow light is
said to have emanated from its top and turned into five colored lights that remained
throughout the night. Local officials reported this event of October 10, 1114 to emperor
Huizong WTF. who then renamed the pagoda "Benevolence and Longevity" {renshou JZ
^f), 38 a name it has retained down to the present. It is this name which is engraved in
stone on the south face of the west pagoda while "Pagoda which Stabilizes the Country"
(zhenguo ta) is engraved on the south face of the east pagoda. The twin pagodas stand
today as solemn and graceful reminders of Kaiyuan's glorious past and of Quanzhou's
golden age.
especially the earthquake of 1604 with a magnitude of about 8.08,39 the east and west
pagodas of Kaiyuan have held their ground, dominating the skyline of central Quanzhou
for more than seven hundred and fifty years. After seeing scores of mutilated sculptures
in China with missing heads, I continually marvel at the ability of the sculptures at the
base of the east pagoda to survive complete with heads, made all the more remarkable
see if it is possible to determine how early puppets were made of the monkey kmg in Quanzhou As for
Guanym, she is most commonly depicted in Chinese art as a woman, "she" appears as male twice at
Kaiyuan, a Tang dynasty stone sculpture m the round and the relief on the west pagoda Again, this
suggests the influence of India where Guanym was a male (Avalokitesvara)
37
   Ecke and Demieville 1935.81.
38 Sizhi 1.8b
19
  "A Seismic History of the Twin Pagodas of Quanzhou" - stone inscription on site at Kaiyuan monastery
Today, Kaiyuan's pagodas are the most common symbols of Quanzhou and
appear on countless tourist publications, advertisements and web pages [Figures 23-27].
While there is a single stone pagoda similar in design to Kaiyuan's, which served as a
lighthouse on the coast during the Song and Yuan dynasties, there is nothing comparable
artistry and stateliness.40 The role they have assumed as valuable cultural symbols for the
people of Quanzhou has assisted the maintenance and protection necessary for their
affective bond with the people of Quanzhou. Yi-fu Tuan developed a notion of
"topophilia" to describe "the affective bond between people and place or setting."42 Tuan
represents an early, if not the first, attempt to bring to the attention of geographers the
environments, place, both natural and built environments.43 My research has found an
40
   This other pagoda is a stone Song Dynasty lighthouse known Shihu Pagoda 5 $ $ in ("Stone Lake
Pagoda") which welcomed ships to the first and southernmost port of Quanzhou at the mouth of the
Jmjiang River as early as the Northern Song Dynasty It was built around 1113 thus predating Kaiyuan's
twin pagodas by over a century. Quanzhou's second port is located in Houzhu Bay fs ffi at the mouth of the
Luoyang River
41
   Pagodas traditionally represent the Buddha by marking the enshrmement of relics of the Buddha or his
disciples. The when the east pagoda was first built in the ninth century, Buddha relics were installed. No
records indicate what may be installed below the west pagoda, but relics and/or other items may be
presumed to exist While Kaiyuan's pagodas thus possess these Buddhist significances, these concerns did
not emerge as important factors in my interviews For this reason, this traditional doctrinal significance is
not included in the discussion here
42
   Tuan 1974 4
43
   This is a discussion which relates a field of inquiry known as human geography.
The Monastery Record relates the early history of Kaiyuan's Amrita Ordination
Platform as follows:
            In 1019 (third year of the Tianxi period of the Song), the government
            promulgated the pudu U S , 4 5 a call for universal ordination, and
            monks began to construct the ordination platform. In 1128 (the
            second year of Jianyari), because the platform structure was not in
            line with ancient tradition, the monk Dunzhao $Xio rebuilt it
            according to an ancient [Nanshan Ordination Platform] illustrated
            sutra (gu tujing l^TlEj^n).46
The earliest date for the construction of an ordination platform at Kaiyuan is thus 1019 of
the Northern Song.47 About a century later, Dunzhao, determining that this platform was
not built according to the great vinaya master Daoxuan's Mm. (596-667) specifications,
set out to rebuild it in 1128 in accordance with Daoxuan's Nanshan Ordination Platform
Illustrated Sutra (Nanshan jietan tujing ~M ill MM 0 H). The platform supported an
array of statues and had five levels representing the five bodies of the Buddha (the five-
    The environment of my focus is a human build one and the phenomenon that I examine is different from
the related category of "geopiety," which is a term first used by J K Wright in 1947 to describe the
"thoughtful piety aroused by human awareness of the natural world and geographical space" (Johnson et
al. 1994. 308).
45
    Pudu would appear to refer to a pudu sengni ^ j t l a l b which was a periodic call for "universal tonsure
and ordination" that the government might use for celebratory reasons in which restrictions on ordinations
were lifted for a period of time The 1019 pudu was ordered by emperor Shenzong For a comparative
description between the Daoist/?w<iw to the Buddhist fangyankou see Orzech 2002 213-234.
46
   Sizhi I 3b The text used was the Nanshan Jietan Tujmg l l U w ^ l S S
47
   Yuanxian apparently had no reliable record of the construction of an ordination platform at Kaiyuan
before the one of 1019 or he would have mentioned it, nevertheless, the Monastery Record records that the
monk Hongze was invited to administer monastic precepts by prefect Wang Shengui in 894 and that Wang
Yanbm built the Establishing Dharma Cloister {Jianfa Jfe'i:) for him in 905 at Kaiyuan, thus suggesting that
some structure was used for ordinations at that earlier period, unfortunately no additional record has been
found for it Sizhi I 21b
bestowed Dunzhao's platform with the name "Amrita Ordination Platform," the name by
which it remains known today. While "amrita" (ganlu "tEflUS), a metaphor for nirvana, is a
traditional name for ordination platforms in China, local tradition holds that the name is
also derived from a Tang dynasty well known as the Amrita Well (ganlu jing VtWr^r)
"Six Unique Sites."50 It was destroyed in the fire of 1357 and rebuilt under the direction
of master Zhengying in 1400 and again in 1666.51 The relics that were brought to the hall
from Fuzhou's Gushan (Mt. Drum) in 1688 are said to remain in the hall today, inside a
reliquary stupa. Although it has been renovated at various times over the centuries, it is
thought that the early Qing dynasty structure is basis for the structure which stands today
[Figure 13].52
Its complex octagonal roof culminates in the ruyi dougong fyWM^Wk style which
resembles a spider web. Twenty-four apsaras (feitian "^^c) holding musical instruments
of the Nanyin rWi=f tradition are carved into the brackets supporting the ceiling [Figures
15-16]. Nanyin music is native to Quanzhou and Minnan; study of the instruments held
by the apsaras at Kaiyuan is said to have helped the revival of the ancient Nanyin musical
48
   See discussion of Daoxuan's platform m McRae 2005.
49
   Wang2008 118
50
   See chapter five for the full list of sights.
51
    According to Chen-shan Wang the 1400 building is the basis of the current one, but she makes no
mention of the 1666 rebuilding in her chronology Wang 2008 135. It is my understanding that the building
dates from 1666 but the stone platform may date back to 1400. It is possible that the stone ordination
platform was not rebuilt at this time, but only the wooden hall that stands above it
52
   "1666 Stele Record of the reconstruction of the Ganlu jietan" In situ in the hall of the Ordination Platform
and also included in Dean and Zheng 2003. inscription #216.
heritage at teahouses and other venues. In 2009, Nanyin music was awarded intangible
Kaiyuan's unique sculptures. The principal difference between these figures and the
kalavinka in the main hall is that these figures do not have wings while those in the main
hall do. This suggests that the ordination hall figures from the Qing dynasty are more
nativistic in style since Chinese angels are traditionally depicted without wings.
The 1666 rebuilding of the ordination hall uncovered a secret passage that runs
below the ordination platform. The opening to the passage was discovered below the
base of the Lossana statue in the center of the ordination platform. The opening leads to a
small tunnel that runs due north below the ordination platform; it leads to the Tang
dynasty amrita well which itself lay just behind the ordination platform underneath a
statue of Maitreya Buddha {Mile). The base upon which the statue sits was excavated and
found to open onto the well. This secret entrance is now blocked off by a stone slab
which serves as a base for the statue of pot-bellied Maitreya [Figure 22]. An inscription
was made at the time by another monk from Mt. Drum named Dajing JK^B which
remains in place on the outer wall of the well but is currently blocked by a table for
offerings.5
of only three such ordination platforms remaining in China, the others being at Zhaoqing
Monastery in Hangzhou and Jietai Monastery outside Beijing. Visitors to the hall today
are struck by the array of Ming dynasty statues that crowd the platform. On the highest
53Dajmg's 'j^J-n 1666-67 Jietan chongjun ganlu jing ji JtKisMy^ttiS^iBCRecord of the Re-digging of
the Amrita Well at the Ordination Platform); the inscription remains in situ behind the ordination hall but is
also included in Dean and Zheng 2003 inscription #245 See also Ziyim kaishi zhvan 12b
Vairocana) Buddha fiii; Mi$> which sits atop an elaborate array of lotus petals said to
number 1000—each wooden petal has a small six centimeter Buddha figure carved on it
[Figures 17-18]. On four sides of the Lossana Buddha are the four bodhisattvas of the
vajra realm {vajradhatu) of the hook, chain, bell and lock.5 Altogether the platform has
more than two dozen statues including Sakyamuni, Amitabha, 1000-armed Guanyin,
Mile, Hanshan M ill and Shide tjp"f# and Weituo, along with eight vajra guardians
(Jingang ^W\). Along the base of the platform in niches are sixty-four wooden tablets
bearing the names of protector deities which preside over monastic precepts and the three
refuges.
On special days such as lunar twenty-sixth the hall is crowded with individuals
inside and out bowing and prostrating to the figures enshrined. Smoking incense is not
allowed inside the hall in order to protect the antiquities, but an incense pot sits in front of
the hall where sticks are placed. Worshipers will also place offerings around the figures
on the platform, especially the eight vajra guardians, who are the most accessible being
placed on the outer corners. Offerings made in this manner include peanuts, candies and
fruits. This hall houses the large bell and drum used to start and end the day and some
tourists given its striking array of statues, the apsaras overhead and its reputation as a rare
ordination platform and the twin pagodas these structures would be enough to attract the
54
   These are four of thirty-seven Vajra Bodhisattvas, these four represent the four all-embracmg bodhisattva
virtues, giving, affectionate speech, purposeful action and co-operation
As mentioned in the previous chapter the main hall, which enshrines Buddha(s), is
traditionally the center of the monastery. Its physical presence at Kaiyuan is striking, but
apart from the name-board or plaque hanging above the doorway and the glimpse one
may see of golden Buddhas inside, there is nothing particularly Buddhist about the
structure and appearance of the hall itself, just as there was nothing especially Buddhist
about the south-facing, rectilinear courtyard arrangement. As Eugene Wang has noted,
there is "nothing distinctively Buddhist about the architectural design of the Buddha hall,
for it shares basic features with secular architecture; its distinction stems more from its
ceremonial character."55 Its ceremonial character includes its plaque, its statuary and, of
course, the presence of monks and laypersons, especially those engaged in devotional
activities.
The main hall is also called the Purple Cloud Hall Hzj;fcJS. Above the central
entrance hangs a large plaque in striking calligraphy reading "Dharma World of the
been destroyed and rebuilt several times since its founding in 686 and the current
building dates from the 1637 Ming Dynasty reconstruction undertaken by Zheng
Zhilong.57 The hall is built in a Tang Dynasty style and enshrines the Buddhas of the five
directions made from unfired clay during the Ming or Qing dynasty. The five Buddhas
55
    Wang 2010:65.
56
   It is said to be composed in the style of inscription calligraphy from the Wei dynasty.
57
    See footnote 311 in chapter two for more information on Zheng Zhilong, the Quanzhou native, pirate and
father of Zheng Chenggong.
Amitabha in the west and Amoghasiddhi of the north [Figures 3-4]. 58 The figures are
gilded and identical in appearance save for their mudras {shouyin ^EP) which are
teaching mudra {shuofa \%Mk), giving/charity mudra (shiyu M^j), leading mudra
(jieying He 31), meditation mudra (chanding # / E ) and fearlessness mudra (wuwei ^EH).
They were refurbished and re-gilded in 1998 at a cost of 1,200,000 RMB (150,000 USD)
and restored (wood frames removed and replaced) and re-gilded in 2009. Wang Hanfeng
suggests that Kaiyuan's array of five Buddhas preserves a Tang dynasty arrangement that
has largely been lost in China and suggest the lingering influence of esoteric Buddhism
five Buddhas in one hall is not particularly common in China—I know of only four other
halls enshrining five Buddhas, Huayan Temple i^/^^f and Shanhua Temple #{fc^f both
in Shanxi lllH have older statues while Hebei's Bailin Monastery and Xi'an's Famen
Monastery both have recently built halls enshrined with five Buddhas.60 Set between and
around the five Buddhas are large gilded statues of Ananda, Mahakasyapa, Manjusrl,
   See Wang 2008. 41-46 for more detailed discussion of the main hall's style, features and size using Fang
Yong's TjfS Quanzhou gujianzhuyanjiu M-M^sW^iMMffL ("Researches into Quanzhou Ancient
Architecture") m DuXianzhou (ed.) Quanzhou gu jianzhu ^.j'Wl^^iK        Tianjm Science Press, 1991,43-
139 and other sources See Interregnum section of chapter 2 for more on the identities of the other five
Buddhas
59
   For a discussion of Quanzhou Kaiyuan's esoteric characteristics see Wang Hanfeng's 2001 article Those
elements are said to include a mam gate with only two guardian figures rather than a hall of four guardian
kings which is more standard, dharani pillars and the five Buddhas
60
   Wang Hanfeng (2001 5-6) only mentions the two groups of five Buddhas in Shanxi
61
   A bodhisattva said to represent the Buddha wisdom of Amitabha A common figure in Chinese
iconography, he forms part of the three holy ones of the Western regions- from left to right,
Avalokiteshvara, Amitabha, Mahasthama or Mahasthamaprapta (Soothill 1937 85)
Guanyin ^Mii63 accompanied by eighteen gilded lacquer arhats (lohari) at its sides
[Figure 5].
The main hall is also nicknamed the "Hall of One-Hundred Columns'" because the
hall's plan calls for 100 columns (in actuality, fourteen were removed to make room for
the statues and worshippers leaving 86 columns). Its basic structure and most of its
columns date from 1637 when Zeng Ying and Zheng Zhilong rebuilt the main hall and
replaced the wooden columns with columns of stone. At the middle of the back porch of
the hall are two exquisite Yuan Dynasty sixteen-sided columns made of green limestone
that were transferred to Kaiyuan from a ruined Hindu temple during the Ming rebuilding.
Each of these columns has twelve carvings depicting Hindu deities and motifs [Figures 8-
10]. At the base of the platform in front of the main hall are seventy-two stone carvings
of sphinx figures (human face, lion body) taken from the same Hindu temple which was
destroyed at the end of the Yuan dynasty and moved to Kaiyuan temple during the Ming
Hindu sculptures from a Yuan Dynasty Temple are an unusual and provocative presence
religious openness, their placement outside, at the "foot" and at the rear of the hall, is not
incidental; it not only keeps them from upstaging the dozens of Buddhist figures that
62
   A variation of Guangong^^or Guandi^Sr serving as guardian of the Sangha J i n H ^ M .
63
   Sheng Guanyin is the most representative representation of the six Tantnc Guanyin and is
iconographically depicted wearing a crown with a small Amitabha in its center (iconographical attributes
not depicted in this Sheng Guanyin are holding a lotus in the right hand with the left hand in the no fear
mudra (dabei shi wuweij^3i&i^)         The division of six Guanyms in Chinese Buddhism is made according
to the six paths or six types of beings (hell beings, hungry ghosts, animals, humans, demi-gods and gods),
Sheng Guanyin is the bodhisattva who saves hungry ghosts.
64
   This is my independent assessment based on information from the Sizhi and observations of the
sculptures and it is shared by Fang Yong (Fang 1991 49 in Wang 2008-44) For more on Yuan dynasty
sculptures from Quanzhou see Guy 2010
Atop twenty-four columns just in front of the five Buddha statues sit lines of
painted wooden musical bird-fairies or kalavinka (pinqie $MJP), they support the ceiling
akin to caryatids in Greek architecture [Figures 6-7] There are twelve larger ones and
traditional Chinese calendar, just as they do in the hall of the ordination platform It is not
known if these figures were an earlier feature of Kaiyuan's architecture, but such winged
figures do appear on sculptures at the base of the east pagoda dating from the end of the
Song dynasty They are thought to date back to the 1389 reconstruction under the monk
Huiming and their design may date as far back as the Song dynasty 67 These kalavinka
and the apsaras of the ordination hall are special features of Kaiyuan that along with the
east and west pagodas are common emblems of Quanzhou's culture To take a prominent
kalavinka that sits in the middle of a major traffic circle, all visitors who enter or leave
Quanzhou by the central bus station pass by this nearby monument [Figure 20] In short,
    We naturally wonder why Hindu sculptures would be installed at a Buddhist monastery After speaking
with many Quanzhou locals and thinking it over I feel the most reasonable explanation is that they were
brought to Kaiyuan during the Ming, after the Hindu temple had been abandoned, by the people of
Quanzhou To this day people bring broken or discarded statues of deities to temples so that they may be
respectfully and safely disposed lest the spirits they represent become angered During my stay at Kaiyuan I
once witnessed monks looking over a broken statue of Guanyin that a visitor had left, one monk, admiring
its artistry, took the bodiless head back to his room and mounted on a base I surmise that monks,
engineers, artistic feeling and popular sentiment collaborated to have the fantastic Hindu sculptures
incorporated into the mam hall Two analogous Hindu columns may also be found incorporated into the
Quanzhou Temple to Mazu, the Tianhou Gong ^ j p j l
66
   Sutras speak of these winged figures as having beautiful voices Kalavinkas are also found in paintings at
Dunhuang For more on the use of Kalavmkas m Chinese Buddhism see the 1998 Huafan University
masters thesis by Chang Shuei-tsai ?fczKM entitled Fojiao jiahngpinqieniao zhiyanjm \%WLMM.^^\\i^i'Z.
Witi (A Study of Buddhist Kavahnka) The supporting brackets are known as dougong -[•$£
67
   Fang Yong has examined the brackets and columns and argues that they date way back to the early Ming
Dynasty 1389 rebuilding under Huiyuan *CE(Fang 1991 38-39, see also Wang 2008 43, nt 152)
twenty four kalavinka, five Buddhas and "one hundred" stone columns. These features
along with its Ming dynasty pedigree and association with Zheng Zhilong make it a
The main hall regularly receives tour groups and independent travelers who gaze
up at the kalavinka and listen to guides explain some of elements just reviewed. Monks
on duty prevent them from taking pictures inside the hall; photography is prohibited
inside all the halls of Kaiyuan. It is a policy said to have been handed down from the
representation of China's national cultural heritage. From the point of view of some of
the monks it is a means to maintain a more respectful atmosphere in the halls. After all,
apart from being open to tourists, the main hall is the center of Kaiyuan's public religious
Just to the west of the main hall is one of the ancient mulberry trees said to have
bloomed lotus blossoms during the Tang dynasty [Figures 54-55]. As early as the Tang
dynasty, Quanzhou was a place involved in the production of silk and Huang Shougong
had an orchard of mulberry trees which would have been used in the cultivation of silk
worms. Kaiyuan's remaining mulberry tree is today one of the most famous sights at the
monastery and is designated in tourist materials as an important "historical sight" {guji 15"
M:). Along with the Song dynasty pagodas, it is one of the most famous sights at
old banyan trees that line the main courtyard; these range in age from 200 to 800 years
old [Figure 40]. The two oldest (800 years old), stand at the very front of the courtyard
just behind the main gate. They would have been alive at the time of the building of the
Song dynasty pagodas and they, along with the other towering banyans, evoke something
of old Quanzhou in the mind of the visitor. In 2007, a forestry agency placed stone
markers at the base of all of Kaiyuan's old trees, the marker for the ancient mulberry
reads 1,200 years, but all the locals I have consulted believe it is a mistake, claiming it is
closer to 1,300 years old. What is unmistakable is the value accorded the tree which has
                                                             /TO
dimensions that are historical, cultural and spiritual. Trees have been revered in
connection with spirits and graves from the earliest of times in China and many temples
have large old trees.69 Beijing's Tanzhe Monastery was also famous for its mulberry
tree(s), but attempts to grow one have been unsuccessful; it later became the site of a
Buddhist Scriptures
Behind the ordination platform is the dharma hall with the scripture library (zang
jingge zJitlrH) on the second floor [Figure 36 ]. It is nicknamed the One Hundred
Treasures Building (baibao lou H S ^ ) and, while the building itself is of little historic
value (it was built during the Republican Period), it indeed holds many rare and one-of-a-
The oldest scriptures held are eighteen leaves (or pages) of scriptures written in
gold by Yiying SL^t at the request of Wang Shenzhi during the early tenth century; these
are referred to as the "five dynasties gold and silver Tripitika" (wudaijinyin zang Sf^ife
fBfl|)[Figure 39]. These pages are all that is left of a group of four sets of the Tripitika
that were ordered by the king of Min Wang Shenzhi to commemorate his enthronement.
The texts were written by master Yiying, two sets in gold and two sets in silver.72
Another eighteen pages are held of the original Fuzhou Kaiyuan Vairocana Tripitika
(Pilu zang itt/^lic) from 1151 of the Song dynasty; these pages are said to be the only
                                  n't
original copies left in Fujian. Also held are many books of the Ming dynasty
$kM,14 the Pinqie Tripitika MUSlM, the Jisha Tripitika 5f # i l , 7 5 the Dunhuang Tripitika
71
   The dharma hall was first built in 1285 and repaired during the Yuan and Ming Dynasties It was rebuilt
in 1925 under the direction of master Yuanymg as a concrete two story building. This building was
partially damaged during the war of resistance against Japan. In 2007, Yuanymg's Republican period
building was torn down and the current building erected with the contents of the Sutra Library returned m
2008 The reason stated for its replacement was that it was unstable. The bottom floor remains used for
daily morning and evening services while the second floor holds Kaiyuan's excellent collection of Buddhist
scriptures
72
    This holding is known as the "Five Dynasties Gold and Silver Tripitika" Sf^ciSlt Wang Shenzhi made
a wish before his enthronement at Kaiyuan Temple and after becoming king he returned to Kaiyuan
Temple, took refuge and donated money to rebuild the mam hall Yiymg became a monk at Kaiyuan's
Yubao Cloister V§^P% {Jinjiangxianzhi 60 A ^ ^ # # )
73
    It is said that Fuzhou Kaiyuan Temple retrieved a copy of the Tripitika from Japan
74
   According to Kaiyuan monk and librarian Huifeng this may have been acquired by Hongyi, but this needs
to be confirmed
7:>
    This edition was made from photo-copies (yingyin SJfcP) of Song dynasty originals in Japan and brought
to Kaiyuan during the Republican Period
In addition to several complete and incomplete sets of the Tripitika, Kaiyuan also
holds several individual texts some of which were written by or annotated by masters
associated with Kaiyuan. The oldest of these is the Yuan Dynasty Lotus Sutra written by
master Ruzhao #PM with his own blood [Figure 37].77 From the Ming Dynasty is a copy
of the Brahma Net Sutra (Brahmajala-sutra, Fanwang jing j^Wm, Taisho 1484) with
the eminent monk Ouyi 's H i S handwritten commentary; the Brahma Net Sutra is cited
as the source for the practice of writing sutras in blood as an offering of one's body to
the Buddha.78 There is a Ming dynasty wood-block print of the Huayan Sutra and a palm
leaf text from Sri Lanka in an Indian script from the Yuan dynasty. From the Republican
Period is a set oiLengyan or Surangama Sutra teaching materials that belonged to master
Yuanying and the Sifenlu (Four Part Vinaya) annotated by master Hongyi as well as a
collection of Master Hongyi's written notes with illustrations. This exceptionally valuable
collection of texts from the tenth to the twentieth centuries contains several rare and
unique pieces that reflect diverse layers of Kaiyuan's rich history. Today, access to the
sutra library and its holdings is guarded by a monk who is the custodian of the library;
visitors must obtain special permission to enter and it receives very few visitors. Its
    Sources on these various editions of the Chinese Tripitika include Li, Fuhua, and Mei He. 2003. Hanwen
fojiao dazangjingyanjm:£LJl\%^%WL'£xM\fl[.Research on the Chinese Tripitaka]. Beymg. Zongjiao
 wenhua chubanshe, Xu Lmgzhi. 2004 Zhongguo lidai cangshu shi ^ B l J S f ^ i i c ^ j t Nanchang: Jiangxi
 renmm chubanshe; Li Jinmg 2002 Fojing banbenl {^Hfilx^ Nanjing Jiangsu guji chubanshe.
 77
    Writing sutras in blood is a means of offering one's body to the Buddha It is said to have been inspired
 by a reference to such offerings in the Brahma Net Sutra (fanwangjing) See Welch 1967 323 for a brief
 account. It remained a popular practice in the Republican Period.
 78
    See Welch 1967 323 for a brief account It remained a popular practice in the Republican Period
It was first built in 687 and was part of the original nucleus of the monastery.
Properly called the threefold gate it is nowadays commonly (and incorrectly) referred to
as the Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwang dian ^lE.W). In the gate are enshrined two
monumental Hum Ha generals who serve as guardians of the monastery.79 The current
structure would seem to be based on the structure built after the fire of 1357 which has
been continually restored over the centuries. Of the halls lying along Kaiyuan's central
axis, the main gate is least dedicated to specifically religious functions, not simply
because it serves as an entrance to casual tourists and devotees alike, but because it also
turnstiles through which visitors must pass. Monks and local devotees are allowed to
enter through the "exit" side of this gate, thus bypassing the turnstile. A distinction is thus
made between local laypersons and monks on the one hand and tourists and other visitors
who are not card-carrying Buddhists on the other. In this way the main gate sets in
motion a process of distinguishing the experience of Buddhist visitors from that of non-
Buddhists; one is required to purchase a ticket and enter through a turnstile on the right,
the other may bypass the theme-park feel of the turnstile and enter on the left where there
is no turnstile. While some visitors offer incense to the towering Hum Ha guardian
figures to the right and left, most simply pass through this hall. This hall contributes to
79
   See Pnp-M0ller 1937 14-20
80
  Lay Buddhists may obtain a lay Buddhist I D card (guiyi zheng) announcing their dharma name. These
can be used to gam free admission to Buddhist sites, much like senior citizen cards can be used to gain
discounted admission
chapter nine).
Across the street from and facing the main gate is a large wall known as a
reflecting screen or spirit wall—a common feature of temples in China. The wall is plain
except for a large stone inscription from the original wall of 1570 that has been inserted
into it reading, "Purple Cloud Screen" ^.7xM in calligraphy by Chen Yuwang P^~f"ZE
the famous Ming dynasty calligrapher [Figures 51, 53]. The screen provides Kaiyuan
with an architectural element that is required for a complete and geomanticallly sound
north-south axis. The features and significance of the north-south axis will be explored
below.
The main courtyard of Kaiyuan is paved in granite stones that may have been laid
during the Yuan, if not the Song dynasty. In addition to the courtyard itself are more than
a dozen other stone structures that range in date from the Tang to the Ming. In 1145,
almost one hundred years before the completion of the east and west pagodas, Liu
Sanniang and her husband Liang An erected two Indian style stone stupas decorated with
scenes from the previous lives of the Buddha. They stand just in front of the main hall
where they have stood for the past 850 years [Figure 44].81 In addition to these unique
stupas are eight smaller stupas erected in the early Ming dynasty known as five-wheel
81
  A similar stupa is found on the Luoyang bridge$$B$Fjust outside the city of Quanzhou.
8
" See Wang 2008: 31-32 for more on the meaning of these.
shade of the towering banyan trees. The earliest of these dates from 854 and, as
mentioned earlier, it was moved to Kaiyuan in 1953 [Figure 43]. The next earliest pillar
was erected by Wang Jixun in 946. It was originally located inside one of the stone stupas
built by the laywoman Liu Sanniang and her husband in 1145 [Figure 41]. It was
discovered along with a gilt silver statue of Guanyin when a typhoon damaged the left
stupa in 1982.83 Dating from 1008, a third pillar is thought to have been moved to
Kaiyuan at the end of the Ming or the early Qing dynasty [Figure 42]. 84 Lastly, standing
near the middle of the courtyard is a stone structure known as the silk-burning furnace
(fenbo lu 5£ ^JP) said to date from the Song Dynasty and previously used to burn silk
offerings during special ceremonies [Figure 46]. The stones of Kaiyuan's courtyard
present another layer of survivals from the Tang, Song and Ming dynasties all shaded by
towering banyans, reflecting contact across the seas with India and providing objects of
Entering by the main gate one enters Kaiyuan's main courtyard. Upon doing so
the cultural properties of the monastery just discussed, the main hall, the courtyard, the
trees and the pagodas, collectively make an impact on the visitor. We will profit by
exploring the somatic nature of this experience. Nicole Boivin has criticized the over-
culture often became reduced to a mere sign, little different from a linguistic sign, its
non-linguistic nature of material culture as one of its important features: "By doing away
with language partly or perhaps even entirely, at certain points in time, both material
culture and certain more experientially oriented types of ritual activity are able to alter
world, the environment, the body and the emotions."86 One's immediate encounter with
the collective presence of Kaiyuan's material culture, will, I maintain, affect a non-
We are embodied actors and material culture affects our somatic experience in
immediate and mediated ways. One's feet feel the stone pavement of Kaiyuan's main
courtyard, one's body feels the shade of the trees, one's eyes are filled with the spectacle
of the main hall lying ahead, the scent of burning incense invades one's nostrils, the
relative quiet brings relief to one's ears. If one happens to arrive on Tuesday or Friday
afternoon the sounds of Buddha recitation broadcast from the main hall will arrest one's
attention. In short, upon entering the physical space of the monastery one is made
environment one has just left. This difference is guaranteed by the collective presence of
buildings situated along a north-south axis enclosed in a wall in accord with ancient
 'Boivin 2009:271-272.
 ' Boivin 2009:283.
halls are arrayed along the north-south axis; at the southernmost point is the main gate or
shanmen, across from which is classically a spirit screen, to prevent the entry of
malevolent spirits After the shanmen (if the shanmen is present) is typically found the
hall of four heavenly kings (which Karyuan does not have), beyond this is the mam hall,
which enshrines Buddha(s) Beyond the Buddha hall lie other buildings which vary from
site to site, these include the sutra library and dharma hall and a hall for Guanyin (which
Kaiyuan does not have) 88 Additional buildings which need not be on the central axis are
the Chan hall, the hall of the ordination platform or other shrine halls such as to
monastery protectors or the five hundred arhats To the east and west of the central axis,
one may find pagodas, bell and drum towers, administrative buildings, living quarters and
other shrine rooms or practice halls While there is variation among the precise halls
represented from temple to temple, the rectilinear arrangement of halls arrayed along a
north-south axis, fronted with courtyards of various sizes is followed at the vast majority
located in the middle of this axis and, indeed, Kaiyuan's main hall of five Buddhas is
located at the geographic center (north-south and east-west) of the complex 89 It is this
regularity that causes exasperated visitors to claim that all temples look alike
   For the cosmological layout of cities see Wheatley 1975 For the cosmological ideas applied to Buddhist
monasteries in China see Meyer 1992 More on the history of the application of these cosmological
paradigm see Ledderhose 2000 113-117
88
   Pnp-Moller's study remains the most complete account of the general layout of Chinese Buddhist
monasteries (Pnp-Pvtoller 1937)
89
   1 have examined a scale map of the monastery and determined that a portion of the main hall falls at the
midpoint where the north-south central axis meets the east-west axis when measured from various possible
points (the, north and east boundanes are not as regular as those of the south and west) Walsh points out
the ideal configuration of Buddhist monasteries calls for the Buddha hall to be centrally located (Walsh
2005 48)
egoistic existence. This doesn't mean that one who enters such a space also transcends
the everyday; one brings that into the complex and the two worlds intersect. The physical
presence of cultural properties and the physical deployment of buildings and space
understands one's experience, it has been affected, if not effected, in important ways by
The visceral experience of entering a space that is unlike the everyday world
beyond the monastery walls—communicating this, is a role the properties play in concert.
The immediate apprehension of one's surroundings elicits somatic awareness that one has
entered a different world. That Kaiyuan and other monasteries do this is no accident. The
act of entering the monastery is meant to be an act of leaving samsara (the round of
suffering) for the Pure Land or nirvana.90 As Walsh, who has "spent considerable periods
of time visiting Buddhist monasteries and examining historical texts in an effort to better
understand what makes Buddhist space a religious space,"91 has said, monasteries "are
viscerally communicated at Kaiyuan by leaving behind the bright, bustling, and noisy
street and entering a shaded courtyard that is dramatically quieter than the street one has
just left. The crowded street, the tacky signs, the tables of goods, the hangers of clothes,
90
     Walsh 2010
91
     Walsh 2010:8.
92
     Walsh 2010:37.
the monastery asserts its difference with the world one has just left behind.
frequencies. Several scholars have noted the variability in meaning of material objects.
Writing about the development of early Buddhist visual culture, Klemens Karlsson
writes:
thought to come in three major frequencies; visitors, depending on their dispositions will
tune in to one or the other. The three frequencies are Buddha-religion, history-culture and
park-leisure. Those tuning in to the Buddha dharma channel are predisposed to look for
the religious character of the monastery or are else sensitive to the religious message of
the cultural properties. Generally speaking these are the worshipers, laypersons and
clerics. Other visitors who enter the monastery with different sets of expectations and
different kinds of dispositions will tune in to the other frequencies. They will experience
the monastery as a place of history and culture or as a park. These are some of the roles
that monasteries in China have played for centuries.94 The monastery's material culture is
layers of meaning have always been encoded in Buddhist visual culture. This is the
suggestion of Vidya Dehejia who argues that if Buddhist writers such as Asvaghosa or
93
     Karlsson 2006:70.
94
     Brook 2005.
Buddhist artists to also intend multiple layers of meaning in early Buddhist visual
culture 95 I would like to extend this notion to the physical presence of the monastery as a
whole In the contemporary period, the leading monks at Kaiyuan are aware of its
different values (monastery, tourist attraction, park) and actively work to accommodate
each of these interests Their motives may be construed in many ways, all of which have
some measure of truth They have an economic motive (money), they have a political
motive (protection/stability) and they have a dharmic motive (spread Buddhism), all of
these, alas, can be subsumed under an over-arching concern with protecting, preserving
and promoting Buddhism. It is in this sense that they are understandable as actions of the
sangha.
It is also likely that from the earliest of times, Buddhists have built and
embellished monasteries in order to pay homage to and glorify the Buddha and the
Dharma and the Sangha, as well as to draw the attention and support of laypersons. As
Daoxuan's motivations here are salvic and compassionate, at the same time, one can
expect that "stirring the human heart" and so forth would also lend itself to drawing
95
  Dehijia 1991 45
96
  Daoxuan's Zhong tianzhu sheweiguo qihuansi tujing ^^=. lirfSjH^K/B.^f HI ^(Illustrated Scripture of
Jetavana Vihara of Sravati in Central India) T 45 890 a28-b2, translated by Ho 1995 18, Robson 2010a 15
inspiring faith and arousing support, the cultural properties of monasteries can also elicit
the statues, pagodas) and the Dharma (the holding of the sutra library) necessary for the
survival of Buddhism. In discussing the myriad functions and goals of the monastery,
Michael Walsh sounds a similar note: "protecting the sangha was paramount, for without
the sangha there could be no perpetuation of the Dharma. Promoting the stability and
examine Kaiyuan's trajectory of survival and sort out the role played by its material
culture. The analysis will focus on the role played by the east and west pagodas and their
Survival
When Kaiyuan entered the Maoist period it was in possession of the array of
cultural treasures just reviewed-the Song dynasty pagodas, the Ming halls, the collection
of rare scriptures and commentaries, the stupas, sculptures, trees and so on—and when it
exited the Maoist period after the ten year disaster known as the Cultural Revolution it
remained in possession of these same properties and had acquired additional ones along
the way. It is a survival to be celebrated by scholars, aesthetes, religionists and all who
value human heritage. China now has thousands of temples, but most of them have been
built, rebuilt or radically restored over the past ten or fifteen years; relatively few possess
buildings that date to the Ming or earlier, and even fewer posses a group of buildings and
97
     Walsh 2010:7.
survival that first attracted my interest and provoked my initial research question—what
made Kaiyuan's survival possible? More precisely, what did Kaiyuan possess that
by elites and the state. The beginning of the Maoist period demonstrated, yet again, that
Kaiyuan, unlike most other temples, would receive the protection and even financial
support of the state. But, as the state turned against traditional culture and all religious
institutions were threatened with annihilation, what enabled Kaiyuan to dodge the
hammers of the Red Guards? What motivated Mayor Wang to come to Kaiyuan's
defense at a crucial moment? While the factors contributing to Kaiyuan's survival are
multiple and complex, Kaiyuan's cultural properties played a crucial a role at a critical
hexagram of the Yijing to describe a fundamental condition of the late Ming restoration of
Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery: "The great fruit has not been eaten." In addition to the
poetic metaphor of the monastery re-emerging from the seeds of its own fruit, the great
fruit also suggests, on my reading, Kaiyuan's stone pagodas, the ancient mulberry and
other cultural properties. They had survived the turmoil of the times, and the pagodas, in
98
  1 have visited only one other monastery with an equally impressive array of original buildings and
cultural artifacts, Zhengding's Longxmg Temple lE/EHt^^f m Hebei (a k a Big Buddha Temple ^ffi=# )
This temple is preserved essentially as a museum and currently has no monastic population, an important
difference that will be explored in chapter eight
that once was. They were a "great fruit" that had not been picked or eaten and their
commanding presence would help frame the scene of Kaiyuan's late-Ming revival.
A Tang dynasty commentary on this line of the Yijing suggests that if a noble man
(junzi fq ^p)picks the fruit it would bring good luck and if a petty person (xiao ren <h A )
steals the fruit it would be a harbinger of misfortune." The petty thus avoid harming this
"fruit" out of fear while the noble man, by his nature, desists in bringing it harm. In this
way, the great fruit is allowed to bring forth new life. With respect to Kaiyuan monastery,
the phrase suggests that the gentry and other persons of means respect the monastery due
to its venerable status and wish to see it prosper, while commoners are afraid to steal
from or destroy it. While many of Kaiyuan's buildings were in fact occupied by people of
means and others were left to fall into states of disrepair, the twin pagodas were indeed
sufficiently respected by the gentry and commoners alike. It is with this in mind that I
suggest that the "great fruit" may in part be thought to refer to Kaiyuan's surviving
Just as the pagodas survived the turmoil at the end of the Yuan and the
depravations of the mid-Ming and a powerful earthquake, they also survived the wars that
ravaged China from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. As China careened
toward the ten year war on traditional culture known as the Cultural Revolution, the
pagodas and Kaiyuan's other cultural properties were once again great fruits that were
not to be eaten.
99
   This explanation is from the Zhouyijijie fal^iMM, a Tang dynasty collection of commentaries from Han
to Tangy on the Yijing, cited in Huang Shouqi Jt^flR and Zhang Shanwen ?^#3C 2001 Zhouyi yizhu M
Ja"t$vi ("The Yijing, Translation and Commentary") Shanghai. Shanghai Guji Publishing House, p 202
When I interviewed former Mayor Wang in 2006 I was escorted by a layperson from
Kaiyuan monastery [Figure 64]; he helped jump start the interview by pointedly asking
his friend Mr. Wang, "Why, as a member of the Communist Party, a mayor and a non-
believer, why did you protect Kaiyuan monastery? What was the reason? What was your
motive (dongji ^tl|H)?" The ninety-one year old Mr. Wang took some time to make his
reply, but when he did it was clear—what he sought to protect was culture not religion:
The mayor's professed motivations were strictly secular; he frames the issue as
one of culture and explicitly distances his actions from any concern with religion. His
actions, he asserts, were carried out in the name of cultural preservation. While his
response is in line with a form of new orthodoxy in China, which values China's cultural
heritage and seeks to preserve it and promote it for economic development in the form of
tourism and socio-political solidarity in the form of nationalism, his response also
From an interview with Wang Jinsheng, October 25, 2006 at his home in Quanzhou.
speaks to the multivalent power of Kaiyuan's cultural properties. Mr. Wang speaks both
of the local and trans-local value of Kaiyuan's cultural properties—he speaks of them as
making Quanzhou's culture what it is and as belonging to the Chinese people {minzu de
wenhua) as a whole. As the mayor of Quanzhou, Mr. Wang asks, how could he not
protect a site of such important cultural value for the city and the people of China? It
would be a betrayal of his city and of the nation. In addition, Kaiyuan monastery had
been designated an Important Provincial Cultural Heritage Protected Site in 1961 ;101 it
was this expressly secular designation, "protected cultural heritage," that provided the
As Mr. Wang recounted the day he stopped Red Guards from vandalizing
Kaiyuan temple, he explained what he considered the three elements most critical to the
protection of Kaiyuan temple: 1. he had the document indicating its protected status 2. the
students (Red Guards) understood its cultural value and 3. he was there to protect it. Of
these, I take the second to be most interesting and, perhaps, most crucial. As he explained
what happened on that day in 1966, it became clear that the Red Guards, at least
according to his account, understood the cultural value of Kaiyuan temple. They
understood this value and its protected status and, as other youths arrived to join in the
destruction of the four olds, the students who had already heard the mayor turned to them
and explained that Kaiyuan was not to be harmed; thus the message was conveyed, youth
to youth. They understood that harming Kaiyuan temple would be harming the culture of
101
      This is recorded on a stone inscription in Kaiyuan's main courtyard.
legally protected), but on an emotional one (this place represents your history, your
culture, your city, regard it as you would yourself). Mr. Wang was successful because he
was able to tap into emotionally charged psychological markers such as city, nation and
heritage by invoking the cultural value of the pagodas. I do not know if it was
predominantly a feeling of "civic pride" that he aroused in the Red Guards, but this is the
emotion that comes out when he speaks about that day and when others speak about
Kaiyuan's cultural properties. It is therefore the terminology upon which I have settled to
during the Cultural Revolution and continues to play a role in the promotion of Kaiyuan
as a tourist site. Mayor Wang's argument was not based on religious concerns; it goes
without saying that Mayor Wang would not have succeeded had he insisted on the
inviolability of Kaiyuan and asked the Red Guards to bow to the Buddhas in the main
hall.
Cultural properties played a key role in both motivating mayor Wang's protection
of the monastery and, according to the mayor, understanding the value of these cultural
properties played a crucial role in convincing the Red Guards to abandon their vandalistic
intentions. My research suggests that the mayor's professed motivation to protect cultural
properties is shared by practically all of Kaiyuan's secular supporters. While this is likely
related to the politically correct nature of such a position, I do not take this position to be
merely one of rhetoric. Over the course of my fieldwork I have spent time with
of Kaiyuan's cultural properties, while religious people and Buddhists have expressed
esteem for Kaiyuan's cultural properties as part of a religious complex. Thus, over the
found that among the monastery's advocates and enthusiasts there are individuals who are
"religious" 102 and others who are "secular." The secular supporters act only in the name
of culture and history and they inevitably possess distinct pride in the city of Quanzhou
and its history, which I hope to express with "civic pride." These supporters may
explicitly deny any affiliation with Buddhism (as does Mr. Wang) or they may simply
emphasize the cultural and historical value of Kaiyuan and its cultural properties and the
importance of their protection without suggesting any need to protect or restore Buddhist
practice at the site. The supporters speak of culture (wenhua), history (lishi) and art
(yishu). These individuals are most characteristically represented by officials who have
been educated to think about religious property in such a way; their interests are not
simply secular, they are agents of secularization. The discourse of Mayor Wang
multivalent to accommodate those attracted to culture and history as well as those attuned
When Kaiyuan's cultural properties are approached with the dispositional attitude
of civic pride they appear as cultural treasures of artistic, technical or historical value
which should be preserved. This dispositional attitude finds its paradigmatic fulfillment
m various actions that fall under the rubric of "tourism," which I expand to include not
102
      "Religious" rather than "Buddhist" to indicate worshipers as well as monks and laity
fruition of the dispositional motivation marked by interest and pride in local history and
culture that I intend to suggest with the phrase "civic pride." These visitors consider it
ludicrous to offer incense to the east pagoda, but they will examine the sign nearby
explaining its architectural value proven through its survival of the great earthquake of
1604.
Civic Pride
The first question is: Why "pride"? And secondly, why "Civic" Pride? "Pride" is
not a word that my interviews have use to describe their feelings about Kaiyuan's cultural
properties, but it is a word I have selected as the best fit to a range of emotions they have
expressed (verbal as well as non-verbal) with respect to Kaiyuan's special features. Pride
has been evident on the faces and in the voices of all of Kaiyuan's secular enthusiasts,
from the studied pomposity of officials to the unaffected passion of the antiquarian and
all the marginally-interested people in between who, nonetheless, know about Kaiyuan
and value its historic properties. This broad group of individuals characteristically speaks
of Kaiyuan and its cultural properties with an air of pride. Their enthusiasm for Kaiyuan
and its properties betrays their own sense of pride which is not pride in themselves, but in
themselves as residents of the great medieval city that has been the home of Kaiyuan for
general public. I have met them at the monastery or run into them on the busy streets near
it; I have sat next to them on buses in Quanzhou or visited with them in homes or cafes.
Members of the general public do not know much about Kaiyuan, but they know it is old,
important historical properties, above all, the twin pagodas and an ancient mulberry tree.
The further one is from the epicenter of Kaiyuan, the less interested and informed is the
general public about Kaiyuan; nevertheless, at any distance, one can detect a tinge of
pride in the cultural properties that are possessed by Kaiyuan. Kaiyuan's twin pagodas
visual cues on billboards, logos, magazine and book covers and other media where the
pagodas represent Quanzhou as a city that welcomes the world. People view Kaiyuan's
twin pagodas as well as the kalavinka and apsaras as symbols, not only of the city of
Quanzhou, but also of Quanzhou as a starting point on the maritime silk route, a fabulous
cosmopolitan entrepot of the Song and Yuan dynasties.103 The feeling of pride is not
personal, it is pride to be part of something more, not a venerable old monastery, but a
famous old city open to the world. Tuan noted that the affective bond between people and
places is strongest in cases where the place serves a symbolic role: "Topophilia is not the
strongest of human emotions. When it is compelling we can be sure that the place or
The value of Kaiyuan's pagodas as symbols of Quanzhou has been made that
much clearer in the wake of our present media revolution, which has placed image
processing and print technology within reach of the masses. Wherever one finds a
website or tourist brochure promoting Quanzhou, one will find an image of Kaiyuan's
103
    It should be noted that the general public sometimes lumps together Kaiyuan's twin pagodas along with
the stone statue of Laozi on Mount Qmgyuan JHMLLI and Qmgzhen mosque ?H U^f as symbols of old
Quanzhou, "starting point of the maritime silk route " This view has tirelessly been promoted among the
population since the 1980s as part of Quanzhou's plan of opening and economic development
104
    Tuan 1972 93
degree long existed in the hearts and minds of the people of Quanzhou expressed in the
old saying: "Stand up like the east and west pagodas; lie down like Luoyang bridge(AL#P
&nm, ebwrafr)."105
         The civic pride of Quanzhou locals is also evident in a folk tradition that survives
from the fourteenth century.106 I first encountered this tradition in the name of a hotel
near Kaiyuan, the Carp City Hotel—"Carp City" (Licheng MML) is an old nickname for
Quanzhou, but what does it mean? I later learned more about the Carp City name when I
was talking to the owner of a small restaurant opposite the main gate of Kaiyuan. She
told me that the city of Quanzhou was shaped like a great fish, a carp and that Kaiyuan's
east and west pagodas were its eyes; I could see this, she informed me, if I looked down
at the city from Mount Qingyuan. The carp is a Chinese symbol of upward mobility and
prosperity earned through perseverance or skill. A local legend attributes the great
properties of the city demonstrated by its carp-shape. This legend was apparently taken
seriously enough by the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Taizu/Hongwu, and he,
seeking to contain the energy of the great city, sent the general and geomancer Zhou
    Both the pagodas and the Luoyang bridge are massive Song dynasty stone structures that remain
celebrated not only for their grace and longevity, but also as engineering marvels. Luoyang bridge is
bounded at both ends by Buddhist stupas, Buddhist stupas and sculptures are also found at points along the
length of the bridge as well As mentioned in chapter two the bridge was built under the supervision of a
Kaiyuan monk This only serves to further the notion that Quanzhou is a "Buddhist kingdom" \% HI and
that Kaiyuan monastery is at the heart of Quanzhou and its treasures.
106
    Wang 1999- 154-178
in an effort to net the carp Kaiyuan's two pagodas, however, remained, piercing the net
Zhou Dexmg is said to have attempted to burn them down in the late fourteenth century,
                                                                            108
his plans, however, were foiled by a heaven sent downpour of rain                 Thanks to
This folklonc interpretation of actual historical events of the early Ming has been
passed down for centuries and remains part of Quanzhou's folk identity After the coast
of Fujian was opened to foreign investment in 1979 many administrative reforms were
set in motion, among them was the changing of Maoist era place names Local historians
charged with the later task proposed the borough of Quanzhou (not the city) to be
renamed "Carp City " 109 This recommendation reflects local pride in the history of
Quanzhou to produce so many capable individuals and so much prosperity and some kind
of faith in the potency of the twin pagodas, which are attributed with tearing holes in the
imperially cast net and freeing the carp to swim free and prosper Kaiyuan's pagodas,
then, form part of the folk imagination of the city of Quanzhou as geomantically
powerful forces that work on behalf of the city and contribute to it prosperity To be
proud of the carp city is to value and take pride in the pagodas which, according to local
properties (historic, cultural, scientific and economic), there remains a segment of the
107
    A national folktale relates how a carp jumped over the dragon gate and was able to become a dragon
The founding emperor of Ming feared a Quanzhou local "jumping over the dragon gate" and becoming a
challenge to the new regime and thus set about reconfiguring the auspicious fengshui of the city (Wang
2009 31-34)
108
    Quanzhou's story of the carp is recorded in Wu Zaotmg 1985 [1940] Quanzhou minjian chuanshuo ji
(A Collection of Quanzhou Folk Tales) Fuzhou People's Publishing House, pp 1-5 See also Wang 2009
30-33
109
    Wang 2009 28
Reverence
monastery, are generally more focused on the restoration of the Sangha and the
efficacy (ling), as a place for the accumulation of merit (gongde) and the receipt of
blessings (zhufu). The language of these supporters is thus imbued with unmistakably
with an attitude of reverence distinct from the civic pride of non-religious. When
they are transformed into devotional objects. As devotional objects they are most
prostrations. The uniquely religious property that devotional objects possess, in the view
accessed by making offerings and simple gestures of obeisance. Others, especially among
members of the sangha, value Kaiyuan's cultural properties for their connection with the
Buddha or the dharma; it is for this that they are venerated. Their veneration, especially
the ritualized veneration of monks and nuns, is performed with a notion of self-
cultivation.
Visitors typically offer incense to the Buddhas in the main hall. Many others
offer incense to Guanyin at the back of the main hall, Weituo in front of the ordination
protected relics from the Qing and Ming dynasties. While the pagodas do not have a
censor to collect incense, religious visitors occasionally toss sticks of incense, coins and
even fruit through the gated doorways of the pagodas as offerings. Such individuals who
behavior found in ritualistic acts that runs from perfunctory to pious. I aim to capture the
disposition expressed by these monks, worshipers and laypersons with the term
57].
Forgotten Virtue, identities reverence as a virtue which entails feelings of awe, respect
and shame.110 Woodruff draws on the important Confucian virtue // ?L, meaning "ritual"
in the proper manner and it forms part of the modern word "manners" {limao). Reverence
in individuals who are in the presence of objects they hold as sacred. Kaiyuan's
worshipers, lay Buddhists and monks all carry varying degrees of reverence with respect
prostrates to the shelf of sutras before he opens it; worshipers prostrate themselves before
Buddhas and Bodhisattvas in Kaiyuan's halls and countless other protected properties
throughout Kaiyuan.
1,0
      Woodruff 2001
111
      Stephen Angle examines Woodruffs use of// as a form of reverence; see Angle 2005.
the pagodas. These are acts of devotion and when they are performed most sincerely they
are accompanied by a sense of reverence directed toward the object of one's devotion.
Such reverence can be detected in the language of devotees, heard in prayers mumbled or
accompanies the ritual acts of monastics such as prostrations, which are designed to
more fundamentally a feeling or complex of feelings. The feeling I have in mind, largely
follows what Woodruff has mapped out, but I emphasize the "respect" dimension. It is a
feeling of deep respect and may also include some degree of love or awe. What is the
source of reverence that people feel towards Kaiyuan's cultural properties? Worshipers
typically believe that the cultural properties discussed here are embodied with spiritual
objects is not generic; that is to say, worshiping one statue of Guanyin is not the same as
worshiping any other statue of Guanyin. Although each statue may manifest the presence
of Guanyin, each statue has its own history and special properties and reputation of
112
    The relationship between reverence and outward speech and behavior is one reason why monks have
traditionally laid such stress on deportment, appearance and speech—these project a proper image to which
lay persons will respond, but at the same time it inculcates what may be described as a sense of reverence, a
sense of focus or concentration, which is to say non-distraction from one's keeping of the precepts
113
    This is the common belief among believers in China See also Kieschmck 2003 80 While it is a
common belief it is not necessarily the view of the Buddhist clergy, some of whom recognize it has a form
of folk belief not strictly in-line with Buddhist teachings
114
    This notion of one statue being more spiritually powerful than another or one pagoda being more
powerful than another is generally a boon to monasteries, especially those that possess properties with a
sponsoring ceremonies to be performed in one's name. When people enter Kaiyuan they
are not especially reverent as one might be upon entering a church, but as worshipers they
The belief in the spiritual power of objects is part of the religious habitus of
theorized the power of inanimate objects in other, non-Chinese contexts. In The Power of
Images David Freedberg has explored the power of Western visual art to generate
responses in the beholder (Freedberg 1989). Alfred Gel has theorized that humans
habitually "abduct" agency to material objects; that is, we attribute to objects (icons,
idols, cars and computers) the power to will, intend or act (Gel 1998). A group of
scholars have used Gel's ideas to examine whether or not the mass production of
religious statues in Vietnam limits their perceived spiritual efficacy; in other words how
commercialization impacts the relationship between the worshiper and the commodified
statue.115 In short, they found that commodification weakened ling, but did not eradicate
it.116
properties is formalized and legitimized by the sheer weight of tradition—a tradition that
Chinese modernizers and revolutionaries have attempted to eradicate but have failed. The
robust sale of mass produced statues of deities for domestic shrines in Quanzhou suggests
reputation for spiritual efficacy, it supports the belief that one cannot simply buy one of the readily
available images and put it in one's home and have access to the same spiritual power that is available at a
venerable monastery This notion will be developed in the following chapter
115
    Kenall, Tam and Huong 2010
116
    Ibid.
power" (Sangren 1987) and "magical efficacy" (Chau 2006), as a central feature of
Chinese popular religion. Among Kaiyuan's worshipers the fact of spiritual efficacy is
simply a given and the crowds that gather on special days and lunar twenty-sixth are
There are, however, those who do not subscribe to the notion of spiritual power
inhering in statues, images or pagodas, but who nonetheless treat these objects with
reverence. These include some monastics, some lay Buddhists and individuals who are
generally younger or more educated and have an interest in religion or Buddhism but do
visitors typically treat statues inside Kaiyuan's halls with some measure of respect. If
questioned they will cite the age, artistry or uniqueness of Kaiyuan's cultural properties
as the source of their interest—this non-religiously motivated type of interest falls under
I hold that these two dispositional attitudes, civic pride and reverence, influence
perceptions of cultural properties and lead to specific patterns of behavior with respect to
cultural properties. These patterns of behavior form two circuits of activity: 1. The civic
circuit.117 These two circuits of activity may be thought to originate in the different ways
in which cultural properties are viewed by individuals. These dispositional attitudes (civic
117
   1 use the word "worship" for lack of a better alternative, but I would like to point out that pilgrimage
serves as a close analogue with the activity I have in mind.
cultural properties and individuals. These dispositional attitudes may also be called
motivational attitudes because they act as the motivating factor bringing about positive
action with respect to Kaiyuan. Those positive actions are the actions associated with
tourism and heritage preservation on the one hand and with worship and religious revival
on the other. Both sets of actions and their corresponding attitudes have encouraged
historic and cultural treasures that must be preserved and made available to the public;
individuals with this attitude participate in activities which fall under my broadened
are seen as objects of spiritual power or representations of the Buddha or dharma that
It is within the civic pride circuit that scholars, artists, amateur historians and even
musicians take an interest in and offer support for the monastery and its cultural
properties. Groups of musicians and scholars who study the traditional Nanyin music of
Quanzhou regularly visit Kaiyuan temple to view and study the apsaras and kalavinkas
holding traditional instruments in the main hall and in the hall of the ordination platform.
Cultural enthusiasts regular view and inquire into the Hindu sculptures in front of and at
the rear of the main hall. Arborists take an interest in Kaiyuan's magnificent banyans,
grand bodhi trees and mystical mulberry. Scholars from China and abroad have taken an
interest in its art and architecture from the first investigations of Ecke and Demieville in
the 1920s to the more recent investigations of Wang Hanfeng (1992 etc.), Chen-shen
sculptures in Quanzhou and Kaiyuan at Columbia). In all of these cases, secular interests
dominate and the pursuant actions vary from visiting and study, to protection and
preservation. All of these activities form part of the civic pride-cultural treasure-tourism
circuit as I envision it and all of them contribute in some fashion to the protection,
support or promotion of the monastery. The difference between this support and that
portrayed in the MS Vinaya is that there the support, though inspired by material culture,
was offered by laity to clerics. Here, monastic property inspires support, but not from
worldview in which certain objects, places or persons are seen to possess sacred qualities
or power. Individuals operating within this paradigmatic dispositional attitude are less
concerned about the historic value of Kaiyuan's cultural properties than with their
spiritual efficacy or their connection with the Buddha or dharma. The thousands of
devotees who turn up on the twenty-sixth day of every lunar month to offer incense,
prostrate, eat noodles and nianfo (recite the Buddha's name) are not focused on questions
of heritage, but on questions of receiving blessings, eradicating bad luck and earning
merit which may benefit oneself, one's family or one's ancestors; a minority may have
more specific ideas about self-cultivation. Their ritualistic actions, which I subsume
under the rubric of "worship," support the preservation and continuance of a religiously
active environment. Their donations directly support the sangha, whereas the entry ticket
purchased by tourists and tour groups is shared by the sangha and the non-monastic
practice. For now, it is important to recognize that the individuals whose dispositions
toward cultural properties are marked by reverence contribute to the protection and
synergy. The way in which they interact with the temple and its properties enhances
Kaiyuan's reputation as a site of spiritual power and a place of the dharma and therefore
draws more pilgrims from greater distances, some of whom spend large sums of money
pride dimension but do not consider it of paramount importance. At the same time, those
who tend to emphasize the civic pride perspective which lauds cultural and historic value
over the religious may be found going through the motions of offering incense or
engaging in forms of obeisance and worship. In other words, the two circuits of activity
are not as exclusive and their boundaries are not as clearly demarcated as the models
have heretofore suggested. When dispositional attitudes are mixed the resultant actions
are correspondingly mixed. The monks and laypersons whose dominant attitude toward
cultural properties is one of reverence and devotion will, for example, most often carry a
measure of civic or cultural pride directed at the age and artistry of the pagodas or the
recognize the cultural and historical value of the site and the need for its protection based
on its religious as well as historic and cultural values. As visitors they not only prostrate
themselves before images of Buddhas but they will also pose for photos in front of the
worship or pilgrimage and tourism becomes blurred. Similar slippage occurs when
occur I maintain the usefulness of identifying these two paradigms as a means of sorting
out two fundamentally distinct types of visitors and supporters of Kaiyuan, the religious
(revivalists) and the secular (curators) The importance of distinguishing these two types
of supporters will become more clear as we examine how these parties compete and
negotiate with one another in chapter eight. For now, we simply want to see how each
based on its possession of cultural properties which, due to their multivalence, each group
values for its own distinct set of reasons, one motivated religiously, the other, secularly.
All Buddhist monasteries have what may be called cultural properties such as
gates, halls, statues, paintings, calligraphy and so on. Such cultural properties were not
China including dozens of temples in Quanzhou. What made Kaiyuan different'? The role
played by mayor Wang was instrumental, but what compelled the mayor to rush to
Kaiyuan's protection'? After all, he failed to protect countless other temples, including
Chengtian Monastery, one of Quanzhou's most important, located about a mile from
Kaiyuan This chapter has argued that Kaiyuan's cultural properties played a crucial role
in both drawing mayor Wang to its defense and providing him with a basis for his
persuasive arguments (legal and civic/cultural value) What makes Kaiyuan's cultural
different from other monasteries, above all the Purple Cloud Twin Towers. What makes
China?118 People say that they are the tallest pair of stone pagodas in all of China, but
that is not their only unique value. I would say that their uniqueness lies in their
scripture and history and overall visual impact. Other pagodas or pairs of pagodas may
have two or three of these features, but none have as diverse an array of these features
and Kaiyuan's pagodas truly remain in a class of their own. This litany of characteristics
properties.
I want to use the notion of synergy to further describe how the relationships
between members of the community and Kaiyuan's cultural properties have served to
protect and restore Kaiyuan. In order to simplify this discussion we will focus on the
pagodas, which are the most visible and important of Kaiyuan's cultural properties. The
pagodas alone, however, in the absence of a human community, are merely stone towers,
perhaps a good place for nesting bats and rodents, but in the eyes of locals the towers take
on a host of added meanings and values. The way in which these meanings and values are
1 8
  ' One can find many other tall pagodas throughout China that have survived from the Ming, Qmg and
earlier While these pagodas have survived, the monasteries to which they once belonged typically did not
One thus finds throughout China dozens of old pagodas standing next to newly rebuilt halls. There are
countless examples of this, prominent examples include several temples in Xi'an such as Da Cien Temple
^vHl^f and Dajianfu Temple J^f^Tlhe homes of the Big and Small Wild Goose Pagodas
(;*JS§> 'JVPg) respectively
the folklore of the city, but how else are they viewed by the community on a day to day
basis? In the eyes of the surrounding community these pagodas evoke many significant
associations: they are Buddhist monuments, they are links to ancestors, they are
survivals from the age of their city's glory days and in this they are points of local pride.
They were built 750 years ago by locals using local stone in a local style using local
technology. Since that time they have survived a mighty earthquake that toppled many
newer structures, they have survived dozens of powerful hurricanes that have damaged
other buildings and they have survived dozens of wars and rebellions. Their age gives the
pagodas not only a venerable quality but also, in the eyes of the surrounding community,
a certain reliability. Adrift on a sea of uncertainty, humans often long in vain for
something fixed, certain and reliable, but for the community of Quanzhou, while
buildings, walls, arches and harbors full of ships have come and gone, these stone
pagodas have remained, rising prominently above the rest of the city, as something
constant and dependable—virtual pole stars for the community of Quanzhou. They have
reliably stood their ground under the gaze of one's grandparents, great-grandparents,
great-great grandparents and so on for seven hundred and fifty years. The strength and
popular local saying: "Stand up like the east and west pagodas; lie down like Luoyang
Despite our best efforts to evaluate the pagodas on their "own" merits, in spite of
our habits of mind to speak of objects of art as having some life of their own, objects of
material culture exists in a shifting communion with their human observers. The value of
and they revere them through a process that invests them with a kind of greatness, if not
Buddhist structures, become cultural treasures and even national treasures The
accumulation of these values and valences is what I seek to evoke with the use of
"synergy "
tourism or religious revival, cultural properties take on added value and significance
through interaction with members of the community through a process that is synergistic
In the synergistic exchange between observers and Kaiyuan's cultural properties, the
properties assume a greater meaning and value than the mere sum of their stones
Because they are valued as cultural treasures, they have been protected and maintained
Because they are known to have been protected and maintained by the community and at
state expense Kaiyuan and its properties take on additional value and meaning As
Kaiyuan has assumed a higher profile, it has been visited by a stream of elite visitors
(such as Jiang Zemin m 1994) and its status becomes even more exalted This continual
cycling back and forth between cultural properties/monastery and the community leads to
increasing visibility and increasing prestige for Kaiyuan monastery and its cultural
properties The dynamic cycling back and forth that I have described here is what makes
this process a "circuit" and it is the increasing expansion of value and significance that I
Tourism and worship and the energy and money deployed in their service have
made Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery what it is today— a dual institution that is both a
demonstrates that having features which can be co-opted by larger socio-cultural forces,
especially non-religious forces, can prove beneficial to survival and success.'19 Just as the
artwork of the Jetavana monastery in ancient India may have encouraged donations, it
was the artistry of Kaiyuan's Song dynasty pagodas and other cultural properties that in
large measure enabled it to survive under the stresses that destroyed dozens of other
patrons (religious and non-religious) may be seen as a conscious strategy, one common to
description of this phenomenon I hope to have shed light not only on the role played by
cultural properties at this monastery, but also to have provided models of interaction
between cultural properties and individuals that may be used to analyze the role of
cultural properties at other religious sites and in other contexts.120 The two models
developed here are a somatic and immediate response to material culture, followed by a
disposition-based response.
visitors. Nor can it be reduced to a description of the physical plan, structures and
properties. Both of these dimensions, the people and their activities and the structures
1,9
   Naquin 1998: 207.
120
   I hope to broaden the comparative compass of this work in future research. It is beyond the scope of this
dissertation, however, to bring in detailed data from other temples or other traditions.
monastery is a training ground for monks or a museum with no clergy; in both cases, the
monastery can only be understood by recognizing the contributions of myriad factors and
conditions to the identity of the monastery. Kaiyuan's material properties, its pagodas,
buildings, stupas, statues, steles and trees, not only provide the setting for the experience
of visitors and the lives of monastics, they also frame, condition and evoke the religious
experiences of visitors and monks alike; and can contribute to its success and longevity.
multivalent factors and conditions such as the memorialization of auspicious events and
Eminent monks, auspicious events and cultural properties are among the central
gazetteers and inscriptions. The Monastery Record contains chapters on eminent monks
and monastic structures and each chapter contains details about preternatural and
auspicious events associated with the monks and the buildings of the monastery. Such
material is typical among local sources as well as larger compendiums such as the
and Daoxuan (seventh century). Noting a distinct focus on this type of material, several
scholars have remarked upon the dearth of information pertaining to the specifics of
reference to monastic gazetteers, Timothy Brook notes that "curiously perhaps, material
pertaining to strictly religious matters is more the exception than the rule. These books
attend to monasteries less as centers of religious practice than as cultural sites favored by
1
    Sizhi I 20b
2
    Kieschnick 1997; Robson 2010b; Naqum 1998
documents of local history echoes these findings: "Indeed, what is absent in those
sources, namely details of religious practice, speaks loudly to what was considered
Tanzhe Monastery, writes: "In all these works, information about the monastic
community was usually excluded, and the temple cast as a site for history, for imperial
and literati visits, for the individual but not the group, for the marvelous and poetic
experience but not the devotional one." Robson points out that while elements of
wonder, culture and history are prominent in the representation of monasteries they have
         One of the main elements found in those sources was a (sometimes quite
         detailed) treatment of the special qualities, or anomalous elements, of the
         natural setting, the connections with eminent monks who resided there,
         and accounts of miracles that were connected with the site and their sacred
         possessions. Those accounts could demonstrate that a monastery was an
         efficacious place for a monk or nun to pursue their calling and may have
         had profound effects on the future viability and economic success of
         monasteries, due to their ability to attract both pilgrims and patrons. As
         visible as these resolutely anti-modernist themes are in local monastic
         records, they have remained topics that have largely been occluded from
         the ken of those who have studied Chinese Buddhist monasteries.6
in local sources: 1. special qualities of the natural setting, 2. eminent monks who resided
at the site and 3. miracles associated with the site or its material culture. Since Kaiyuan is
3
    Brook 2005: 178.
4
    Robson 2010b: 49.
5
    Naquin 1998: 202.
6
    Robson 2010b: 59.
miraculous tales are well represented in the literature associated with the monastery.
While Brook, Naquin and Robson are all writing about the representation of
they mention (cultural properties, the presence of eminent monks and records of
auspicious events) as the most prominent monastic features in, not only historical
officials have all pointed to the centrality of Kaiyuan's buildings, its legendary founding
and eminent monks in making it a place deserving the interest, protection and patronage
of the public and devotees alike. This chapter focuses on the roles played by the
memorialization of eminent monks and auspicious events in the religious and institutional
life of Kaiyuan. In short, I propose that such memorialization and related discourse
contributes to religious life by sacralizing the grounds and shrines of the monastery and
to the institutional life through branding. The two processes will be explored following an
Eminent Monks
The passage cited at the head of this chapter is taken from the chapter on
Kaiyuan's eminent monks in the Monastery Record. Yuanxian states that what truly
accounts for Kaiyuan's greatness is not the magnificence of its physical plant (which was
examined in the previous chapter) but rather the monks who have infused it with
hold that it is more than a rhetorical flourish and argue that some genuine charismatic
power, emanating from monks of the past through discourse and cultural artifacts, has
contributed to the monastery's reputation and to patterns of patronage. While they lived,
eminent monks attracted monastic and lay followers as well as the support of patrons.7 In
addition to the direct material support attracted during their lifetimes, memories of
particular monks were passed down and built into a repertoire of narratives about
Kaiyuan that have enhanced its reputation for spiritual power, thus contributing to
An eminent monk exhibits excellence, but what kind of excellence? A monk may
of the monastery or a tireless fundraiser or builder. In short, there are many ways in
                                          o
which a monk may prove his virtue. In other words, there is no single, paradigmatic
eminent monk marked by a single or fixed set of virtues. "Eminent monk" (gaoseng) is a
multivalent designation and Kaiyuan's eminent monks over the centuries have possessed
a range of diverse virtues.9 The most orthodox virtues a monk may possess are those that
correspond with one of the three trainings that encompass traditional Buddhist practice:
mastery in discipline, doctrine and meditation. To these most traditional virtues we must
7
  As narrated in chapter two, many buildings were constructed by patrons in order to house eminent
masters and their disciples—this was especially prominent during the interregnum and the Northern Song
periods
8
  Jonathan Silk has explored, for example, the importance granted to monks involved in administrative
service in Indian Buddhism (Silk 2008)
9
  All of the above varieties of excellences are demonstrated in the biographies in the Monastery Record.
As for numinous powers, within the Buddhist tradition, they are an expected
literature, the adept should dismiss as a possible sidetrack on the path to awakening.10
The vinaya ultimately forbid monks from making miraculous displays before the laity.''
Despite this canonical view, supernormal powers form an important part of the
hagiographic literature of eminent monks. They are so prominent, in fact, that in his study
thaumaturge one of three types of monks eulogized, the others being scholars and
order to promote the prestige of the monastic community and earn them the support of
the state and the elite.13 One of the more frequently depicted types of preternatural event
nature.
Since the Han dynasty, before Buddhism had penetrated the Chinese cultural
sphere, the Chinese have believed that the presence of a sage evokes wondrous responses
   Canonical literature lists six kinds of powers, including magical powers {ruyi) (Kieschnick 1997. 70)
11
   Davis 1998 13
12
   Kieschnick 1997-67-111
13
   One way that support was earned was through the ability to successfully prognosticate future events of
concern to leaders (Kieschnick 1997 71-76)
responses in the natural world are commonly used as evidence of a monk's eminence. In
his study of biographies of eminent monks written from the sixth through tenth centuries
Kieschnick observes that "when a sage appears, one can expect a spontaneous, correlative
response from Nature, whether it be changes in the weather, new configurations of the
stars, or the appearance of prodigious plants and animals."15 The biographer Huijiao
wonders (shenyi t^HO-17 Daoxuan, in his Continued Biographies of Eminent Monks (Xu
(gantong ^ i l ) . 1 8
The Biographies of Purple Cloud Bodhisattvas and the Monastery Record both
These sources relate a full range of preternatural responses from nature including animal,
vegetable, mineral, liquid, celestial, sonic and olfactory responses. Apart from lotus-
blooming trees and purple clouds, examples from the Monastery Record include amrita
14
    The Han dynasty belief is articulated in the Huainanzi. See Le Blancl985; Kieschnick 1997: 98 and
Campany 1996: 367-368.
15
   Kieschnick 1997: 98. For more on such miraculous occurrences during the Han see Loewe, Michael.
1982. Chinese Ideas of Life and Death Faith, Myth and Reason in the Han Period (202 BC-AD 220).
London: Allen and Unwin, pp. 80-90. David Chappell also notes the early non-Buddhist presence of this
notion in Chinese thought "In the tradition of correlative thinking from the Han dynasty, the formless
ultimate was seen as responsive to human morality, exceptional spiritual achievement would naturally
manifest itself in external natural wonders " See Chappell 2005 61.
16
   Also known as the Liang Biographies of Eminent Monks {Liang Gaoseng zhuan           ^MiaW)
17
   Huijiao's Gaoseng zhuan. See Kieschnick 1997 99
18
   Daoxuan lush gantong lu, T 2106, v 52, Luxiang gantong zhuan, T 1898, v. 45 I follow Kieschnick,
following Birnbaum, in translating gantong as " spiritual resonance " See Kieschnick 1997 98-101. Xu
gaoseng zhuan '^Mi^ik See Kieschnick 1997. 88-89
music and fragrances have been associated with such events as the births of masters or
their chanting of scripture.20 To give one of the more colorful examples, red lotuses are
said to have turned white while the fragrance of cinnamon (cassia) flowers filled the air
when the interregnum monk Xicen ffi-^ lectured on the Xifang guan shangsheng Sutra
Responses in the animal world include doves listening to sutras (to be discussed below).22
The most recent example of a correlative response in the natural world to the presence of
eminent monks is said to be the phenomenon of "peach trees blooming red lotuses" when
Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu entered Kaiyuan to initiate the Republican Period
revival in 1924.
vinaya because the sympathetic resonance of the environment to the presence of a sage
appears to be an involuntary relation. In other words, the monk does not will the purple
cloud or other sights or sounds into existence, they are spontaneous reactions to the
presence of excellence. Just as the Buddhist notion of karma operates as a kind of natural
law, so does the correlative response or spiritual resonance between virtue embodied on
the micro-level of the human body naturally relate to the larger cosmos on the macro-
19
   Sizhi I.3a-b.
20
   Benguan's ^M (d 1100) mother, for example, dreamed a golden figure who gave her a white lotus
before she discovered she was with child and when he was born there was a purple aura around his head
and strange light is said to have filled the room (Sizhi I 34b). Daozhao MBS, who lived during the
interregnum, was also born with a purple aura around his head (Sizhi 1.24b) The monk Benyuan ^W.
while traveling in Zhangpu '0'M sat on a rock beside the path and every night thereafter the rock is said to
have glowed Sizhi 1.45a
21
   Sizhi 129b-30a
22
   Sizhil 40a
and the larger world; there is no dichotomy between matter and spirit.24
Biographies of Purple Cloud Bodhisattvas are different than the kinds of gantong in other
Sutras and Mantras {Guanshiyin jingzhou zhiyanji) compiled by layperson Zhou Kefu
j§] JnLfS in 1659. The stories in this collection and others were examined by Chun-fang
Yii in her study ofGuanyin (Yii 2001) and all reveal the response, not of an impersonal
heaven or cosmic force, but ofGuanyin Bodhisattva's intervention in the lives of the
faithful.25 Though informed by the idea of correlative response, it seems that such stories
the entity responding. These two different conceptions of the cosmos, anthropomorphic
"miracles" merits a brief comparison with this Western notion and its conceptual
framework to clarify, more precisely, the nature of the auspicious events under
consideration. The word "miracle" is derived from the Latin miraculum, "to wonder."
   This was how early Buddhists m China adopted the idea of karma to Chinese thought; the only major
difference was the idea of rebirth (Campany 1996 369)
24
   The Chinese non-duahsm, as I understand it, is thorough and accounts for salient characteristics of
Chinese religion It contrasts with the traditional perception m the Western world of a dichotomy between
matter and spirit and body and mind Though the Chinese view suggests monism it remains attached to
notions of hierarchy
25
   Many such miracle tales are examined in Yu 2001 158-194
26
   Robert Sharf notes this and literati efforts to combat more personahst or anthropomorphic versions of
cosmic forces (Sharf 2002 95) It seems to me that more naturalistic approach reflects a preference m the
Zhou dynasty to speak about Heaven (tian) rather than Shangdi ("Lord on High") as cosmic arbiter For a
good overview of the many ways that ganying cosmology applies to important traditions of Chinese
thought and practice including folk, Confucian, Daoist and Buddhist see Sharf 2002 77-133
full of wonder, in other words, as having a cause absolutely hidden from all. This cause is
God. Therefore those things which God does outside the causes which we know are
this contrasts with the Chinese notion we must understand what is meant by God and
Just as a dichotomy is erected between matter and spirit, so is there a dichotomy between
the human and the divine. In short, none of this thinking is operative in the traditional
Chinese context. There are gods, ghosts and spirits in China, and they are distinguishable
from humans, but they are not onto logically transcendent; they are not of some wholly
other substance or being. There is a line of continuity that runs between humans, spirits
and gods. While humans in traditional Chinese thought are believed to have souls, hurt
and po, they are not immaterial. They are rarified forms of energy, a subtle form of
matter.28 This profound difference places the Chinese on radically different religious and
philosophical footing.29 This difference, I will later argue, enables the Chinese to
reinterpret their auspicious events in more scientific terms without them significantly
27
   Aquinas Summa Contra Gentiles CI (1258-1264); translation by Pegis (Aquinas and Pegis 1945 980);
briefly discussed in Davis 1998 5
28
   See Schipper 1993 41 Another difference is the notion of miracle as an intentional act by God. In the
naturalistic notion (not the anthropomorphic) of sympathetic response there is no intention, it is a natural or
spontaneous response to the presence of stimuli. Anthropomorphic agents of response are, however, also
common It is not possible to claim that lack of intention is a common feature to all phenomena associated
with ganymg
29
   "Transcendence" m the Chinese context is something like "ranfication" rather than what it means in a
Judeo-Chnstian context
bounded cosmos, within the organism of the world. Miracles in the Judeo-Christian
context are intrusions from beyond the world, into the world. It is also contact with the
wholly other God, beyond this world, that makes something holy according to the
Bible.30 These ideas of wholly other transcendence are foreign to the Chinese view,
differences, correlative responses of the kind we are considering are accepted as signs of
great attainment, they are also thought to imbue the place where they occur with their
numinous presence.
Places that serve as the site of such wondrous displays are, through such
association, rendered sacred (shendi). As sacred places they are considered to possess
numinous power or efficacy (ling). The amount of perceived spiritual efficacy is a crucial
determinant in the success of a temple in folk and Daoist traditions. Chau writes: "The
determinant of a deity's ranking in the local world of spiritual power."32 Efficacy also
During the imperial era, spiritual efficacy also served as a key factor in
determining the level of elite and state support. Just how numinous power was related to
intriguing article by Judith Boltz which points out that Chinese historical literature is full
j0
   Japhet 1998 57-58. Sara Japhet points out that it is only contact with or connection to God that makes
something holy in the Bible. Association with samts, holy people or their relics are not means of making
something sacred that occur in the Bible (ibid)
31
   On the Chinese universe as an organism see Needham 1951.
,2
   Chau 2006 241
were considered threatening through ritual means or through the closing or destruction of
shrines 33 The Song Dynasty chronicler Hung Mai $dHlM. (1123-1202) in his Yijian zhi
MULife explained that the shrines which commanded respect were those that were
responsive {hngxiang JTcffi) 34 During purges, the only shrines that had a hope of
survival were those considered effectively numinous, spiritually powerful or hng To give
an example from the eleventh century, the magistrate Jiang Jing (earnedy zm/zz in 1079) of
Yixing "KT\, Jiangsu ordered the destruction of three hundred shrines considered
"excessive" only sparing the one temple considered the most powerful, a temple
The relationship between officials and what they perceived as the numinous realm
provides an important window into factors contributing to the patronage of religious sites
such as Quanzhou Kaiyuan over the centuries Longevity, to a great extent, has often
boiled down to being tolerated by the state, which has always seen the regulation of
religious activity and institutions as part of its duty. The Chinese bureaucracy, educated
in the Confucian tradition, has often been influenced by skeptical and cautionary
tendencies in the Confucian tradition, it has, at points throughout the imperial era, held
Buddhism, Taoism and folk practices at arms length and has participated in the regulation
33
   Boltz 1993
34
   Yijian zhi, Boltz 1993 247 For more on the the Yijian zhi its author, themes and social context see
Inghs 2006 Edward Davis has used the Yijian zhi and other texts m his Society and the Supernatural in
Song China (2001)
^Yijmnzhijia 1 2, Boltz 1993 247
ideology has been replaced by Marxist historical materialism, which considers religion an
that requires close regulation and restriction. While other temples and monasteries have
come and gone in Quanzhou, Kaiyuan has remained because political forces over the
centuries have supported its continued existence. There is no one reason that Kaiyuan has
survived purges or has been the first to be rebuilt over the centuries; but its reputation as
a place of spiritual power, and, more recently, its possession of valuable cultural
Kaiyuan's perceived numinous power attracted the patronage responsible for the
out by Yuanying and Zhuandao during the 1920s). The restoration was carried out by the
commander general Bai Yude in the early nineteenth century. Why was this non-local
general moved to restore Kaiyuan's halls? Dispatched to fight pirates in the region, he
went to Kaiyuan and prayed for rain to end a terrible draught in Quanzhou. When his
prayer was answered, that very night, he committed to restoring Kaiyuan's halls.38 Bai
Yude, we must infer, turned to Kaiyuan because locals had informed him that it was a
place of merit and spiritual power. Even if they did not, the commander perceived this to
be the case himself and it was his experience with Kaiyuan's perceived spiritual efficacy
   For Mmg attitudes about regulating Buddhism and Daoism see Brook 2009
37
   See Yu 2005, Brook 2009 40.
38
   Chongjian Kaiyuansi beiji S H ? f 7£#fif !•£ ("Stele Record of the Reconstruction of Kaiyuan
Monastery")
How then, has Kaiyuan promoted an idea of spiritual efficacy? A common means
for temples to set themselves apart has been through their founding narratives. Some
temples are founded by eminent monks without need to refer to preternatural signs, such
as the founding of Xi'an's Ci'en Monastery built for the great Tang dynasty master and
pilgrim Xuanzang. Others are founded around a sacred relic or image. Many such stories
are related by Daoxuan in his Ji shenzhou sanbao gantong lu (T. 2106:52) about
efficacy when the mulberry tree is said to have bloomed lotus blossoms; an indication of
efficacy that was reiterated when an auspicious purple cloud descended when the main
Ever since the ninth century when Huang Tao memorialized Kaiyuan's legendary
founding marked by lotus-flowers and purple clouds, the monastery has continued to
memorialize auspicious events and eminent monks associated with its founding, which
mark Kaiyuan as a place of numinous power.40 Almost all subsequent treatments of the
monastery, including records from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties and recent
guide books, relate the legends of Kaiyuan's auspicious founding and thus reinforce its
reputation for spiritual efficacy. More than six hundred years ago a list of auspicious
events associated with the monastery and its masters was inscribed on a wall bounding
39
  Ji shenzhou sanbao gantong lu (T. 2106:52.404-435); Shinohara 1998.
40
  Huang Tao's 897 Quanzhou Kaiyuansi fodian beiji T^^'H JF7nTFffiIx5^iB("Stele record of the
Quanzhou Kaiyuan Monastery Buddha Hall") collected in the Quan Tang wen ^ / H i C ' T h e Collected
Works of Tang Literature") and in Dean and Zheng 2003.4-6, Inscription #4.
temple publications and guide books. Monks of the past and auspicious events associated
with their names have been passed down in unbroken succession to the present; these
auspicious events have become integrated into the fabric of Kaiyuan's identity and have
served to distinguish it as an outstanding place of merit and spiritual power. These acts of
bring distinction to the monastery, validate it as a place of spiritual power and a place of
the Dharma—qualities valued and sought by Kaiyuan's patrons past and present. While
the reputation for spiritual power would have helped attract state support and protection
during the imperial period, this has changed in the modern period. The previous chapters
have stressed the importance of cultural properties in winning state support in recent
decades. Although spiritual power is no longer a field of discourse that speaks to the
catalogue miraculous correlative responses in nature that are said to have occurred at
Kaiyuan and in connection with eminent monks. While these events are said to have
happened in the past, they are widely thought to imbue the land, its buildings, trees and
statues with a residue of their charisma and spiritual power in the present. Standing in the
main courtyard one day I was speaking to a lay Buddhist about the mulberry tree that
bloomed lotus-blossoms and, with a big smile on his face, he said, with visible pride,
"This is holy ground (shendi ^iik)." On another occasion I was asking a monk about the
auspicious stories associated with Kaiyuan and if they had any influence on the
monastery and he said that they inspire people, monks as well as visitors. This same
While the notion of auras over temples may neither be widespread nor well
documented, the notion that temples possess sacred power which visitors can access is. If
a temple can document a record of auspicious phenomena associated with it, its monks or
properties, then it can promote its reputation as a site of spiritual power and increase the
number of devotees eager to contribute to the temple in hopes of receiving its blessings
and protection (baoyou f^te). In addition, if properties exist, be they mineral, vegetable
or animal, which are associated with such preternatural events, these attract not only
Monastery Record in 1927 he lauded Quanzhou Kaiyuan as the best among a forest of
Chan temples by referencing its eminent monks and auspicious events as follows:
          The auspicious sign of the mulberry tree which bloomed lotus blossoms
          expresses delight at the magnificent spread of the dharma realm (xifajiayi
          hongkai H£fe!?-£I.;I:JF). Fragrantly flowing amrita celebrates the exalted
          religious ethos. Manjushri descended and wrote a sutra; arhats entered a
          dream.41 Venerable masters of the three teachings- meditation, doctrine
          and discipline- have arisen one after another, too many to count, they are
          truly capable of effecting changes in customs and traditions (yifeng yisu 3&
41
     These are references to well known stories about Kaiyuan temple; they are related below.
In celebrating Kaiyuan's greatness Mr. Wu focuses on the great masters of the past and
and the dream of arhats are all code words that point to Kaiyuan's auspicious past. The
remembering eminent monks that have passed through Kaiyuan's venerable halls, which
is, in turn, a means of praising and promoting Kaiyuan's reputation. Guidebooks and
other forms of contemporary literature also invoke auspicious events or reproduce lists of
them.
While Kaiyuan has long recalled the two auspicious events associated with its
founding, an additional level of self-reflexivity emerged toward the end of the Yuan
dynasty in the first half of the fourteenth century. It was then that Dagui (a.k.a.
auspicious events associated with Kaiyuan's eminent monks. It was also at this time that
lists of eight auspicious phenomena (bajixiang A n f f ) and six unique sites (liu
shusheng / \ ^ I 4 ) were inscribed on walls outside the main gate.43 These lists have been
passed down since that time and were most recently reproduced in 2005 in a promotional
book published by Kaiyuan monastery. The book features many color photos of
Kaiyuan's cultural properties and includes the Yuan dynasty lists of eight auspicious
phenomena and six unique sites. The eight auspicious phenomena are: 1. Purple clouds
42
     Sizhi p2.1 a.
43
   They were erected in 1327. Chan master Muan wrote poems for the six and the eight in the seventeenth
century, these poems are recorded in Shen Yushui y^t3i7K 1990: 73-75.
(sangshu bailian, H M fi5H), 3. The courtyard that doesn't grow weeds (fancao
busheng, /-LlP^^i), 4. White doves listening to a sutra {baige tingjing, fi p|BJf £5), 5.
j$£) and 8. The mummy of the bare-shouldered monk (tanbo zhenshen, liJitjftJS'). The
six sites are: 1. Stone-arisen peony (shisheng mudan JRzE$k.f\), 2. Purple Cloud twin
Platform (ganlujietan "rTM^ifi) and 6. Ancient dragon eye well (gw longyanjing ~&'M
BH;^). Of the six unique sites only one of them was reviewed above, while the others
to the many eminent monks of Kaiyuan as a whole, recognizing that they as a group have
generated an auspicious energy or charisma that remains accessible at Kaiyuan, the eight
auspicious phenomena are all directly related to particular monks. The unique sites, on
the other hand, are not.4 Of the eight auspicious phenomena, five are still represented at
Kaiyuan and of the six unique sites only the dragon eye well is no longer represented.
The pagodas, ordination platform and silk-burning furnace all remain extant and were
44
   While the stone-arisen peony is a preternatural event it is not associated with the virtue of a particular
monk. Hence it is considered unique and perhaps freakish, but it is not classified as auspicious, at least in
the list of eight.
Kaiyuan three are said to exist in their original form while two are made present through
inscriptions or sculpture; each will be described below. Just as these auspicious events
and unique sites enhanced the monastery and its reputation during the fourteenth and
As we review the eight auspicious events we will note how they are or are not
represented at the monastery today. The first two on the list (purple clouds and lotus
blossoms) are already known and will be examined at length below. The third item on the
list is the large stone courtyard said to have been auspiciously free of weeds—an
auspicious event for anyone who's had to weed a large courtyard! The Monastery Record
notes, however, that it was invaded by weeds as early as the Yuan Dynasty. The
monastery, nevertheless, makes an effort to keep the courtyard weeded and it remains
The fourth auspicious phenomenon is the dove that listened to sutras. This is
reference to one of the more unique stories about Kaiyuan's eminent monks; it concerns
Chan master Jiehuan jflffi whose story begins at Kaiyuan in his previous incarnation as a
dove. This particular dove is said to have visited Kaiyuan's Thousand Buddha Cloister
(qianfo yuan ^ p ^ K ) daily to listen to the head monk chanting the Lotus Sutra. One day
45
   The Buddha is also represented by an inscription. A stone inscription reading "imperially-bestowed
Buddha image" is set above the central door of the main hall The inscription refers to the Buddha statue
donated by emperor Xuanzong m 738, which is no longer extant, but which has been replaced by the
current Buddhas in the mam hall The age of this stone inscription is uncertain, though locals say it may
date from the Yuan dynasty Given the presence of so many other stone sculptures dated to the Yuan at the
Main Hall this is perfectly feasible Adding to this is the fact that the four character phrase is the same as
fourth unique site of the Yuan Dynasty list of five It is an elegant inscription, superbly decorated and it
seems quite possible that all five unique sites were labeled with such inscriptions during the Yuan Dynasty
46
   Szz/zzl.30b-31a
dove and through the power of your chanting I have been reincarnated as a human." The
person in the dream described where he was born and asked the head monk to find him,
indicating that he could be positively identified by a white feather under his arm. The
head monk followed the directions and found a baby boy with a white feather under his
arm. His parents agreed to let him become a monk and after he grew up—he became the
head monk's disciple and was given the name Jiehuan.47 The story of the dove that was
reborn as the monk Jiehuan is symbolically represented at the monastery today through
small wooden sculptures of white doves on the roof of the main hall. With so many
impressive sights to compete for their attention, most visitors fail to look up and notice
these small wooden doves, and few guides mention them for the same reason. Yet they
remain as subtle reminders of a dove reincarnated as a Chan master for those initiated
into the lore of the monastery with the leisure to seek out all of its minor charms.
The fifth auspicious phenomenon is the dream of the five hundred arhats. One
evening, Yuan dynasty abbot Miao'en dreamed of five hundred monks asking to be his
disciples (yizhi ifclh). When he awoke the next morning he learned that the hall of five
hundred arhats at Hangzhou's Nanshan temple ^ ill ^F had burned; he then built a hall of
                                                                AQ
five hundred arhats at Kaiyuan to serve as their home. While this was an elaborate
addition to Kaiyuan's monastic complex, it was lost at some unspecified point in history
4/
    Sjz/nI.40a;I.17a
48
   Sizhi 142a, I 6a Such phenomena continue to happen. In 1982, for example, a woman dreamed that
gods came to her and communicated that they were homeless and therefore suffering and asked for her
village to build them a home. This woman shared her experience, the village rallied around the cause and
withm eight months a temple had been built, three gods enshrined and a regular schedule of festivals
honoring these gods was inaugurated (Guo 1985, Feuchtwang 2001 148)
The sixth auspicious phenomena is a reference to the many great masters that
lived at the monastery during the Song dynasty when it had expanded to include one
hundred and twenty cloisters. Hongyi's calligraphy of Zhuxi's verses about the streets of
Quanzhou, the Buddha country, once being full of sages may be considered an indirect
reference to this. Guides and guidebooks regularly mention the history of Kaiyuan's one
hundred and twenty branch cloisters, but no effort is made to elaborate on the diversity of
Kaiyuan's monks, Daozhao ifiBS. The Monastery Record narrates the story of a pilgrim
who, on his way to Mount Wutai S o " ill to pay homage to Manjushri, met an old man
who asked him where he was going. The old man said, "In the Arhat Pavilion (luohan
ge §7 $U13) at Quanzhou's Kaiyuan Monastery there is one copying the Weishi lun
appearance of this old man was instrumental in directing the pilgrim to Kaiyuan to find
the "real" Manjushri. This pilgrim traveled to Kaiyuan and indeed found the monk in
  Mount Wutai has long been an important pilgrimage site in China. See Gimello 1992 and Stevenson
1996
   Vijnaptimatrata-siddh i -sastra
51
     SZZ/H I 24b-25a
monk thought to be from India because he wore his robe with one of his shoulders bared
and because he begged for food (an ascetic practice from Indian Buddhism that was never
embraced by the Chinese). He is reputed to have had the ability to bring sun or rain as
requested.53 He is said to have had wild tigers at his side when he lived at Mount
Daiyun.54 With respect to the mummy of Zhiliang the Monastery Record states:
         His disciples encased his corpse in mud and placed it in a hall where it
         became a source of prosperity (fu) for the people of Quanzhou. .. .A man
         named Chenze $kW\ from Jinjiang H t L one night dreamed the master
         spoke to him, 'Change your name when taking the exam and change your
         place of birth to Yongchun TK.# then you will succeed.' Mr. Chenze did
         as instructed and it came to pass.55
Today there is a small lacquered figure enshrined in the Patriarch's Hall that is
said to contain the full body relic {quanshen shell ^kMikM) of Zhiliang [Figure 60].56
Mummies have been effective in attracting patronage in Chinese Buddhism since as early
as the Sui Dynasty when the mummy of master Zhiyi ^11(538-579) attracted the
attention of the imperial court.57 By the time of Zhiliang, mummies had become a
    See biography #9 in Sizhi I.24b-25a for more treatment of this episode and Daozhao's indignant reaction
to the earth god for revealing his identity.
53
    Sizhi I 22a-b
54
    Sizhi I.22a-b
55
   Sizhi 122a-b
56
    The technique of covering mummies with lacquer developed in China as early as the seventh century.
Daoxuan in his Xu gaoseng zhuan describes the mummy of Daoxiu iHJiJ; as being covered with a cloth
soaked m lacquer (Ritzmger and Bmgenheimer 2006: 66-67). As the Tang dynasty wore on the use of
lacquer to cover mummies became more the rule than the exception; it was protective and lightweight and
made the mummies more easily transportable (Ibid-70-71)
57
   Ritzmger and Bmgenheimer 2006 62-69. For more on the tradition of mummies, perhaps better
distinguished as "whole body relics," see Justin Ritzmger and Marcus Bmgenheimer's article "Whole-body
relics in Chinese Buddhism" (The Indian International Journal of Buddhist Studies 7, 2006) This article
provides an overview of research on the subject as well as an excellent historical sketch of the practice in
lacquer figure said to be Zhihang's mummy has been preserved for so many centuries
and recorded in Kaiyuan's list of eight auspicious phenomena indicates the value
monasteries have been said to have protected their monasteries from the raids of military
similarly protective role over the centuries, but such a role has not been documented.
Traditionally it would have been both a spiritual and economic asset, but today the figure
receives little attention by monks or the public. Furthermore, while the pious believe it to
be authentic, skeptics hold that the figure is too small and light to contain a complete
mummy.59 No effort is made to draw attention to this relic today, but the monks do
regularly pay obeisance to the images in the Hall of Patriarchs, including the figure of
Zhiliang. For the many who are aware of its presence, the mummy of Zhiliang adds a
Regarding the six unique sites, it is recorded that during the Tang dynasty, a
peony was found growing from one of the columns of the main gate. The story of the
stone-born peony is represented by a peony that is painted on the wooden beams just
above one of the stone columns in the main gate. It is similar to the wooden doves on the
China See also Faure, Bernard 1991. The Rhetoric of Immediacy, pp. 148-78, and Scharf, Robert. 1992
"The Idolization of Enlightenment: On the Mummification of Ch'an Masters m Medieval China," History of
Religions 32 (Aug. 1992): 1-31
58
   Stories of this kind are associated with Chan master Chu'nan Mlf (813-888) (T50, 2061 817 c28-
aOl), Faqin v£$C(714-792) (T50, 2061: 765a08-10) and Wuzhuo Wenxi * l : 5 ; $ ( 8 2 1 - 9 0 0 ) (X80, 1565
193c2-6) See Ritzmger and Bmgenheimer 2006 79
59
   I have not made verifying the authenticity of this mummy my task, but it is a task awaiting anyone who
wishes to make it theirs
60
   The story is related m Sizhi I.9b
location of the dragon eye well is not known, but it is likely associated with Kaiyuan's
famous Dongbi dragon eye (longan) fruit trees. There are some dragon eye fruit trees in
the northeast corner of the monastic grounds, but people say there are no more Dongbi
longans The well is not marked or memorialized in any fashion, except as a member of
Kaiyuan's auspicious past is made alive by clues planted throughout the monastic
grounds, symbolic and verbal clues, as well as through properties said to date from the
time of those auspicious events such as the mummy and the mulberry tree. In addition to
these "on the ground" clues are references to these events in publications and in the
discourse of tour guides. The current abbot, for example, has overseen the publishing of
which introduces the Yuan dynasty list of eight auspicious phenomena and six unique
sights.62 In addition, Daoyuan has had large walls constructed to flank the main gate
inscribed with references to two auspicious events one from the monastery's founding,
the other from the Republican period restoration under Yuanying, Zhuandao and
Zhuanwu. Visitors entering by the main gate find themselves bounded by four large
characters on each side, one set commemorating the auspicious founding the monastery,
"Dharma World of the Lotus [-Blooming] Mulberry Tree" (sanghan fajie §k^t&W) and
Peach Tree Manifests the Auspicious " {taolian yingrui \K^$0u) [Figures 49-50] The
two numinous events span thirteen centuries of the monastery's history and suggest to the
61
     One should look for it on one of the first columns to the right as one enters the main gate
62
     Daoyuan et al 2005 18-19
When I have asked monks at other temples in Quanzhou about auspicious stories
associated with their temples, they say they have them, but I have found none as central
to their identity as they are at Kaiyuan. Kaiyuan, it seems, has been more successful than
other monasteries in the region in memorializing its auspicious past, especially its
legendary founding. This is true in the present as well as in the historical record. I have
perused the sections on temples in Fuzhou and Quanzhou in the early Ming gazetteer of
found that no other Buddhist temple among the 1,907 listed had as colorful or elaborate a
foundation story as Kaiyuan's tale of Huang Shougong and his mulberry orchard.63 The
Jinjiang county section, in which the city of Quanzhou lies, includes information on
forty-six Buddhist monasteries (^f), ninety-eight "cloisters" {yuan $%) and fifty convents
(an M), making a total of 194 Buddhist sites. Most accounts are very simple statements
of when they were founded, only Quanzhou Chongfu mentions special features at or
predating its founding, namely, four strange pine trees which grew there during the Jin
dynasty (jinshi song sizhu zhi gan teyi)—auspicious, perhaps, but hardly a supernatural
event of the scale of Kaiyuan's mulberry trees. I have counted 1,288 Buddhist
institutions in the Fuzhou county sections. Of these there are two temples with legends of
dragons that once lived in caves on the site where temples came to be built; the very
important Gushan Yongquan Monastery was built to quell a dragon and the lesser known
63
     Bamin tongzhi 75-77:1089-1129, 1160-1173.
64
     Bamin tongzhi 77.1160-1167.
spotted 65 While stories about dragons add to the lore of these sites, they are considerably
gazetteer also records that Putian's Guanghua Monastery was founded when the land was
given to a white-haired sage, but no further details are provided 66 These were among the
very few temples to included details about their founding and none of the stories achieves
the same measure of dramatic quality and wonder as the dream of Huang Shougong and
the lotus-blooming mulberries The fact that Fuzhou's Gushan and Putian's Guanghua
monasteries are, along with Kaiyuan, among the select few temples to have any details
about their founding persevered in this early Ming gazetteer supports the thesis that
Kaiyuan's foundational stones have served to enhance its reputation and thus contribute
to its success and survival, for these two monasteries were also among the first to be
restored in Fujian and are among the most important m the province, each boasting large
numbers of monastics.
The most prominently memorialized auspicious events and eminent monks, apart
from Hongyi, are those associated with Kaiyuan's founding and the Republican Period
restoration Attention is focused on these two sets of events before one enters by the mam
gate (in the south) Standing before the gate, one is effectively surrounded on four sides
by literary references to three different auspicious events Facing the main gate, to one's
back is a large wall known as a reflecting screen {zhaoqiang Mi@) or spirit wall The
wall is plam except for a large stone inscription from the sixteenth century that has been
65
   Bamin tongzh 75 1089-91
66
   Bamin tongzhi 79 1213-14
67
   In 2007,1 was told by monks at Gushan that there were about 100 monks then living there Guanghua
Monastery has even more monks due to the presence of an active Buddhist seminary I don't have precise
numbers, but there may be as many as 200 monks there
above the entrance, is a name board bearing two characters that have been a nickname of
the monastery since the Tang Dynasty: "Purple Cloud" [Figure 52]. Finally, there are the
two walls mentioned above, erected by Daoyuan in 2002, referencing the auspicious
mulberry and peach trees and like the promotional book, demonstrate the current
legendary spiritual power. The words "Dharma World of the Lotus-Blooming Mulberry"
found outside the temple are found again, inside the grounds, inscribed on a huge
horizontal wooden plaque that hangs above the central doors of the main hall. These
words are positioned so that they make their way willy-nilly into every photo of the main
hall taken from the large open courtyard [Figures 48, 72]. Similarly any photo taken of
the main gate from outside the monastery will include the name-board reading "Purple
Cloud" that hangs above the entrance and most likely one of the inscriptions on the
bounding walls. In this way, and in the relating of the story of Kaiyuan's founding by
every tour guide and guidebook, the story of the lotus-blooming mulberry trees and the
purple cloud are repeated visually and orally and have become identifying features that
ancient mulberry tree said to be one of the original trees left from Mr. Huang's original
land grant.
This mulberry tree, said to have bloomed white lotus blossoms more than 1,300
years ago, is, after the stone pagodas, Kaiyuan's most well known attraction. The
mulberry is the only property at Kaiyuan protected by a barrier and kept under lock and
key [Figure 68]. It is arguably the most sacred property in the whole monastery. It is
with the abbot—several such photos are displayed in the abbot's audience hall. I have
been allowed to enter the gated mulberry tree area on two occasions (2006 and 2009) and
each time I felt as though I were being granted a rare privilege to pay my respects to the
tree rather than, say, inspect or photograph it—the tree is large and unwieldy, however,
and not amenable to being photographed [Figures 54-55]. It sprawls over the corridor that
extends between the tree and the main hall as it stretches east and south towards the
dragons and doves that decorate the roof of the main hall. The tree also extends toward
the ordination platform in the north and towards the west pagoda in the west thus
stretching out in three directions. Its leaves have a surprisingly vibrant and healthy
appearance while its bark, which it appears to be shedding, like a snake does its skin, is
dark and crumbling. Tea made with its leaves is reputed to have special healing
properties and older locals may be seen picking them up from the stone pavement
between the main hall and the hall of the ordination platform.
The story of Mr. Huang's mulberry trees is manifest at Kaiyuan not only by the
lone surviving mulberry or the prominently displayed inscriptions inside and outside the
monastery but also by enshrined figures of the event's two protagonists. Behind the
Dharma Hall and Sutra Library lies the Patriarch's Hall in which is enshrined a figure of
Kuanghu, the monk said to have received the land grant from Mr. Huang. The small
statue of Kuanghu sits just behind the "mummy" of Zhiliang [Figures 59- 60]. Mr. Huang
is himself enshrined to the east of the Patriarch's Hall in the Donor's Ancestral Hall
68
   A small figure is seated just in front of the figure of Kuanghu, this figure is said to contain the
mummified remains of the Tang Dynasty bare-shouldered monk Zhiliang. In addition to these two statues
the hall contains images of Republican Period masters Yuanymg, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu and from the
post-Mao period, Guangjing.
hall and a small statue of him is enshrined in another [Figures 56-58]. Both Mr. Huang,
who gave his orchard, and the monk Kuanghu, who received it, are thus formally
enshrined and receive offerings. While Kaiyuan has survived many changes and
forgotten the events and figures associated with its founding narrative. It is a
remembrance that has helped the monastery to distinguish itself and attract the patronage
of the Huang family in particular from the Ming dynasty down to the present.
I like to understand the story of the mulberry trees that bloomed lotus blossoms as
a metaphor for the blossoming of Buddhism in South China where lotus blossoms
represent the dharma and mulberry trees, which are used to cultivate silkworms, represent
South China, home to the most famous centers of silk production. There is no way of
confirming that such was the conscious intention behind the story, but it remains,
Buddhism's iconic monastery the Jetavana, used by the Buddha and his disciples.
Jeta and determined to purchase it for the Sangha, the owner, Prince Jeta, was reluctant
and said that the land's price was the amount of gold required to cover the park in its
entirety. When Anathapindada began to do just this and had nearly finished Prince Jeta
was duly impressed, stopped him and covered the remaining area with his own gold. It
was thus that Anathapindada acquired the land that was given to the Buddha and the early
Sangha.
donation of the mulberry orchard immediately come to mind. Like Prince Jeta, Mr.
Huang was reluctant to give up his land, but rather than flat our refusing, both made what
conditions were met (the land was to be covered in gold and the mulberry trees were
covered with lotus blossoms), the land-owners were duly impressed and the land was
A further addendum to the Huang donation story, most likely added during the
Ming dynasty, claims that when Mr. Huang asked the monk Kuanghu how much land he
needed, the monk said only as much land as covered by his robe's shadow. Mr. Huang,
perhaps relieved, agreed, at which point Kuanghu removed his robe and tossed it high
into the sky so that it blocked out the sun and produced a shadow across Mr. Huang's
entire orchard. The robe, however, had a hole in it, which let the sun shine on a small
patch of the orchard; it was at this spot, according to the legend, where a shrine was built
to honor the donor, Mr. Huang. This story, which was likely invented by members of the
Huang family during the Ming or Qing dynasty, nevertheless, offers a further parallel
with the donation of the Jetavana.69 Recall that a small piece of land was not covered
with Anathapindada's gold, but rather with Prince Jeta's. Thus in both cases the donor
retained a symbolic measure of interest in the land defined by a parcel that had been left
Further examination of these structural parallels is beyond the scope of this study,
but it leaves us with a sense that Quanzhou Kaiyuan's founding story bears a structural
affinity with one version of the founding story of the quintessential Buddhist monastery
69
     A parallel story is associated with Mount Wolf <(f| ill Temple m Jiangsu.
the archetypal overtones they give the founding narrative of Kaiyuan, iconic overtones
Although many, if not most people, do not literally believe that mulberry trees
bloomed lotus-blossoms, they still venerate the surviving mulberry tree as a very old tree
and believe something happened which provoked the land to be donated to Kuanghu. Not
wishing to abandon the story as baseless, they have searched for more "scientific"
explanations of the perternatural story. The most popular explanation comes from an
edition of the "Huang Surname Genealogical Records" which claims that in the year 686
Southern Fujian had rain that lasted forty-nine days. It has been suggested that under
these unusually warm and humid conditions Mr. Huang's mulberry trees may have grown
white wood ear fungus which from a distance could have looked like lotus blossoms.70
This is an explanation that I have heard from monks and laypersons and is one that is
circulated by some tour guides. I contribute its popularity to the influence of the historical
materialist ideology and anti-superstition campaigns that have created a fashion for
A similar development has taken place to make the Republican period miracle
more consonant with a scientific understanding. A monk at Kaiyuan who takes an interest
in such stories informed me that there were then peach trees at Kaiyuan and they
bloomed large blossoms; they were so large that people, taking some artistic license,
70
    Zhang 2003: 23
71
    Hiking with a guide in the Wuyi mountains of Fujian in 2006,1 was amused by the striking
discrepancies between the oral account of the mountains provide by our guide and the written accounts
posted on signs along the trail—the former were mythological tales of deities full of love and betrayal, the
latter were full of details of geologic stratification and shifts that would bore anyone but a geologist The
signs suggested the presence of the state and an attempt at de-enchantment, secularization and re-education
that they are not, it seems to me, dramatically damaging the overall force of the stories
and their ability to sacralize the grounds. Those who proffer such explanations still
maintain that something unusual happened. This "something unusual" is the hallmark of
spiritual power. The nature of the unusual has been reigned in considerably in these
auspicious sign. As discussed earlier, there is no radically other agent involved in these
auspicious manifestations. Thus one can lower the drama element (mushrooms not
under the influence of a sage and produced an auspicious sign. The fundamental structure
and elements of the event have not changed; Chinese cosmology provides a means of
Furthermore, the desire to make these adjustments suggests a desire not to abandon, but
China over several centuries (Six Dynasties, Sui and Tang), has argued against the thesis
that these stories of anomalies are a form of early "fiction" writing.72 Rather, he argues,
they constitute a genre concerned with cosmography, which sees itself as historiographic
   Campany 1996 The thesis that they were a kind of fiction writing developed under the famous author
Lu Xun (1881-1936) and was supported by scholars such as DeWoskm 1977 Ahster Inghss has carried
forward Campany's thesis in his study of Hong Mai's Yijian zhi (Inghss 2006)
accounts, that they are not perceived as fiction, but as a form of historiography which
requires glossing. If they were simply fictions there would be no reason to find an
explanation for them apart from debunking them as fictitious. One monk who holds the
view that white mushrooms grew on the trees instead of lotuses has said that the authors
of the early records used artistic license to describe the unusual phenomenon. In other
words, something unusual happened and in order to draw attention to it, a more colorful
monastery's founding story is told in guidebooks and by tour guides every day and the
events are memorialized in inscriptions and shrines throughout the monastic grounds so
that most every visitor is exposed to these auspicious founding legends. These auspicious
events, especially the story of the lotus-blooming mulberry trees and the purple cloud,
influence the experience of visitors and the reputation of the monastery. How this
influence plays out differs according to the disposition of the one learning of the story or
its presence at the monastery. While, for the religionist, these stories enhance the
monastery's reputation of spiritual efficacy, for the tourist they mark Kaiyuan as unique
place of historical interest. In this multivalent fashion they serve to both sanctify and
brand.
13
     Campany 1996
application has been broadened in recent years in literature dealing with the branding of
place and the branding of cities in the interest of harnessing the economic potentials of
marketing agent, it has followed a long tradition of promoting its special features as a
means of setting itself apart and attracting patrons. The special features that have been
promoted from the very beginning are the auspicious events associated with the founding
distinguish the monastery from other Buddhist monasteries, particularly those that may
have old buildings or pagodas, or share the name "Kaiyuan."75 Visitors who take little or
no religious interest in Kaiyuan, but who are attracted to its historic and cultural
properties will nonetheless learn of these associations with auspicious purple clouds and
the legend of the lotus-blooming mulberry. For these visitors, the stories may not mark
Kaiyuan as a sacred place, but they nevertheless mark it as a unique site, distinguishing it
The "purple cloud" and "dharma world of the lotus-blooming mulberry" are thus
deployed much like trademarks that participate in the promotion of Kaiyuan as a tourist
74
   For place branding as it related to tourist sites see Morgan et al 2004. For study of the branded city in
Asia (esp Hong Kong and Shanghai) see Donald and Gammack 2007 For a "guide" to place branding see
Olms 2004
73
   Recall that every prefecture was to have a Kaiyuan temple during the Kaiyuan period of the Tang
Dynasty and many of these Kaiyuan's still survive in one form or another. Within Fujian, for example,
Fuzhou Kaiyuan still exists, it is significantly smaller than Quanzhou Kaiyuan, however, and houses only a
handful of monks and receives a very small number of tourists
is "See temples during the day, sleep at night"—it's much catchier in Chinese: baitian
the most intrepid historians or pious Buddhists are likely to tire of visiting temples which
share many similar features, and so when the guide on the bus announces to his or her
group that they will tour Kaiyuan Temple, the group will not be nearly as enthusiastic as
one that is told they will visit the "Purple Cloud,"home of an ancient mulberry tree that
bloomed white lotus-blossoms during the Tang dynasty! These are colorful and imagistic
tags that Kaiyuan has actively promoted for centuries; their deployment has enhanced
Quanzhou Kaiyuan's brand and contributed to its success as a tourist site, as well as a
Other temples and monasteries also develop their "brand." The famous Baima or
White Horse Monastery in Luoyang may be said to have seized upon the image of the
associated with an auspicious dream, in Baima's case the dream was by the Han emperor
Ming i X ^ ^ ( r . 58-75 C.E.) who dreamed of a flying golden figure. His advisors
informed him that his dream referred to the Buddha, a sage in the West. The emperor sent
envoys who returned after several years with two Indian monks, the Sutra in Fourty-two
Sections and a white horse. The emperor is said to have had White Horse Monastery built
symbol of the monastery and its legendary past. Baima may be seen to have deployed the
image of the white horse associated with its founding in ways similar to Kaiyuan's
promotion of Purple Cloud, both serve as memorable imagistic names. The monastery
also promotes a list of six sites {liujing / \ jR) traced to a Qing dynasty monk who carved
them on the wall, the inscription can be seen today.77 Its properties of cultural heritage
include a Jin dynasty pagoda, stone statues from the Song, a gate from the Ming and
statues from the Yuan. Similar to Kaiyuan's famous dragon eye fruits, the Baima boasts a
famous large pomegranate the "Baima sweet pomegranate" {baima tianliu). Baima's
array of cultural properties and effectively memorialized founding story are points it has
in common with Kaiyuan, points that have contributed to each of their success.78
verbally, serve as poetic substitutes for Kaiyuan that suggest a unique, even exotic,
monasteries and temples. Kaiyuan's association with auspicious events and eminent
monks not only serve to brand it as unique, they also reinforce its reputation as a place of
spiritual power.
   The six sites at Baima si are the Pure and Cool Platform {qingliang tai) rebuilt m the Ming, Burning
Sutra Platform (fenjing tai) now in rums, Midnight Bell (yeban zhong), Tenglan Tombs (tenglan mu) from
the Han, Rise into the Clouds Pagoda {qiyun ta) and the broken words stele {duanwen bei) The bell tower
and bell have been rebuilt along with the drum tower All seem to be present today, if in a ruined state
(such as the Burning Sutra Platform).
78
   Shaolin Monastery has effectively promoted its "brand" focusing on its reputation as the home of
Kungfu, it is also the site of a cave where Bodhidharma is said to have meditated and a forest of pagodas
not only from other temples, but from the rest of the mundane world. Before the
monastery was established, the land it inhabits was part of the mundane world—it was a
mulberry orchard. As a mulberry orchard it had two distinguishing features: land and
trees. Both land and trees were marked by auspicious appearances that effectively
signaled the blossoming of a place to practice Buddhism in China: the trees bloomed
lotuses and land was covered by a purple cloud. It was as if the land and the trees
themselves spoke up and said, yes, this is where a monastery should be built. Such is the
import of these two legends—the monastery's location is not arbitrary, it was mandated
literally, since that time, it has been the place where a Buddhist monastery has been. This
is a point made by the pair of inscriptions bounding the main gate which reference the
heritage has been a condition for the cultivation of monastic excellence. It is a condition
that existed in the past and one, Yuanxian states, that must also exist today (in the
seventeenth century):
worshipers) As preternatural events they point toward the spiritual power of master
Kuanghu, Kaiyuan's founding master, and, in more recent times, to the charisma of
Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu The charisma of Kuanghu was sufficient to convert a
mulberry orchard into a Buddhist monastery that became one of the largest and most
legendary founding charisma drifts through the ages and is awakened by the words
"purple cloud" and "lotus-blooming mulberry" and is manifest in the survival of a small,
awkward statue that now sits behind glass in the Hall of Patriarchs The Hall of Patriarchs
is situated on the highest elevation of the monastery and the statue of Kuanghu and the
portraits of Republican period monks gaze south towards the central axis of Kaiyuan,
overlooking the sutra library, the ordination hall, the mam hall and the pagodas In short,
Kuanghu and the Republican period monks occupy a place of honor physically and
spiritually From the words "Purple Cloud" across the street from the mam gate as well as
above the door of the mam gate itself to the far back of the monastic complex in the hall
planted throughout the length of Kaiyuan's central axis, are a formal reminder of
Kaiyuan's auspicious beginning, setting Kaiyuan apart from both the mundane world as
Republican Period masters Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu. These masters are
represented in the large inscription just outside the main gate announcing that the
"Lotus[-Blooming] Peach Tree Manifests the Auspicious" and in the three portraits that
hang in the Hall of Patriarchs. Four portraits hang above and behind the figures of
Kuanghu and the bare-shouldered "mummy" of Zhiliang; from left to right they are
masters Yuanying, Zhuandao, Zhuanwu and Guangjing [Figures 59, 61]. While
Guangjing was the general manager (jianyuan) of Kaiyuan during the early 1950s80and
active in the most recent period of restoration, the other three were instrumental in the
Republican Period restoration and their portraits in the Hall of Patriarchs draw attention
to this fact by affixing the phrase "restorer of this temple" (chongxing bensi M z 4 ^ ^ )
to their names. Furthermore, at the very rear of Kaiyuan's central axis, behind the hall of
patriarchs are two stupas enshrining the remains of the monks Zhuanwu and Guangyi.
From the portraits hanging in the Hall of Patriarchs, past the buildings they oversaw built
during the Republican Period (the hall of merit and the former dharma hall) all the way to
the inscription just outside the main gate, traces of Kaiyuan's Republican Period restorers
also mark the central axis of the monastery and reinforce the religious identity of Kaiyuan
Hongyi's presence at Kaiyuan, the master Hongyi memorial hall is an additional point of
eminent monk. The recollection of master Hongyi and his association with Kaiyuan
80
   According to Huang Yushan he served in this post from 1950 to 1954
81
   The importance of this identification with the monastic vocation will become more evident in the
following chapter
host of eminent monks and a place for religious virtuosity Along with the memorials to
masters Yuanying, Zhuandao and Zhuanwu, the Hongyi Memorial Hall serves to bring
Kaiyuan's auspicious past and association with eminent monks into the twentieth century.
The Republican Period referents paired with the references to the Tang dynasty founding
serve to identify Kaiyuan as a place for the cultivation of Buddhist monastics. Such a
identity as a place of spiritual power and thereby sacrahze the monastery in the eyes of
those who accept the notion of spiritual power. Those responsive to these cues perceive
Kaiyuan as a sacred place {shendi), a field of merit or simply as a place of spiritual power,
and they are Kaiyuan's primary supporters. Kaiyuan's worshipers and Buddhist patrons
alike perceive Kaiyuan as a place where one may effectively call upon the assistance and
blessings of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. Those seeking such assistance make small
donations and if they fill their petition has been received they will return and repay the
important source of support for the monastery and an important role that it plays in the
commumty, it is a place where one can go to seek help in affairs (financial, family, health
in the success of a temple. Such a reputation ensures popular appeal, and, during the
imperial period, generated state support as well. Kaiyuan's auspicious events have been
recorded and memorialized from as early as the ninth century and this careful
over the centuries. Given the traditional role of officials as managers of religious sites
and the tradition of allowing at least the most spiritually powerful to survive, Kaiyuan
monastery has very effectively promoted an identity as the most spiritually powerful site
in Quanzhou, as the king of ling—as Yuanxian suggests, "No one eats the great fruit."
While the perception of spiritual efficacy was important for state support only in the past,
it remains important in attracting popular support in the present. The following chapter
will reveal what interests the current state has in the affairs of Kaiyuan and other
monasteries.
monastery after attending a meeting of the municipal people's congress. Upon arriving at
the main gate of his monastery, Daoyuan, a small man who was then in his sixties, met a
security guard with whom he had had disagreements in the past and another argument
broke out between them. The abbot repaired to the monks' living quarters and summoned
the monks to attack the security guard. Some twenty or more monks, armed with knives
and blunt objects, did just that. Two co-workers of the unfortunate guard came to his aid
and were also assaulted. From here, the main gate or "Hall of Heavenly Kings," the monks
advanced to the office of the administrative commission, which employed the security
guards, and proceeded to trash it. No one was seriously wounded in the fray, but the
This event, witnessed by picture taking tourists and devotees alike, had been
preceded by months of tension between the monks and an entity known as the temple
between the abbot and members of this group had been growing at least since the previous
winter when the abbot had monks attack the vice director of the commission after an
argument regarding New Year's decorations. It was back in August that relations with the
front gate security crew had reached a critical point. One of the security guards had
parked his car in the Hall of Heavenly Kings and refused to move it when asked to do so
by the abbot. The abbot called together a group of more than ten monks who threatened
to damage the car if it were not promptly removed. It was then that the monks with their
abbot vowed to have the temple administrative commission and its employees removed
from the temple within two years. Two years have since come and gone, by the end of this
chapter you will learn the fate of Kaiyuan's administrative commission and the monastic's
This chapter discusses two interested parties, "curators" and "revivalists," who
possess different visions of what temples should be in contemporary China and examines
how these parties have negotiated an identity for Quanzhou Kaiyuan. In short, the curators
are interested in protecting cultural relics and charging the public a fee to visit temples and
view their cultural properties, while the revivalists seek to reestablish temples as places
euphemism for specific organs of the state that have varying degrees of jurisdiction over
Buddhist temples in China. These organs are present in various configurations and differ
from temple to temple. When a temple becomes designated an Important National Cultural
addition to the Bureau of Religious Affairs, become associated with the temple in various
committees that deal with tourism (liiyouju IMMfM), culture {wenhuaju ~3cVcM),
heritage {wenwuju JC$}M) and temple management (guali weiyuan hui l^JJltlt.ra z?).
These are the curators who, in line with the Communist Party's ultimate view on religion,
seek to frame religion as an artifact of the past rather than a living phenomenon with a
who are eager to recover monastic spaces and restore them to religious use
A dominant theme in the study of religion in contemporary China has been the
issue of relations between state and religion ' Many studies, especially earlier studies,
state 2 Ashiwa and Wank (2009), as well as David Chau (2006), have recognized the
hegemonic state and religion or society They have proposed, instead, a more nuanced
analysis of what Chau calls the "the state-society interface " 3 Chau argues that
While there is conflict between curators and revivalists at Kaiyuan, there is also
cooperation and collusion Furthermore, those whom I have labeled "curators" are not
synonymous with "the state " They are low level officials and state employees working for
a state which is much larger than they In order to contextualize their relation to the
central state, it should be recalled that Zhao Puchu, while he was still alive, effectively
represented both Buddhists and the state against such lesser entities 5 So while at times in
the analysis to follow, it may seem that the curators are standing in for the state, I want to
' Yang Fenggang 2006, Ashiwa and Wank 2009, Mayfair Yang 2009, Jun Jmg 1996, Flower and Leonard
   1997, Gladney 1991, Madsen 1998, Eng and Lin 2002 etc
2
  Anagost 1994, Feuchtwang 2000, Jun Jing 1996, Mayfair Yang 2004, Wang Mmgming 1996 70, 76,
   Overmeyer 2003, Potter 2003
3
  Chau 2006 8
4
  Chau 2006 8
5
  Ashiwa and Wank 2006 350 351
and although, generally speaking, it seeks to regulate religion, on a local level it often
this chapter are minor bureaucrats and state employees and represent individuals like them
all over China whose duties bring them into contact and into conflict with religious entities
                                                                      7
such as clerics or organizers of popular religious festivities            While these two parties, the
curators and revivalists, are distinct, their goals are not absolutely antithetical
While it is true that curators, strictly speaking, support the cause of tourism over
religious revival, one should recall that Buddhist monasteries have long hosted those in
pursuit of leisure, culture, beauty and history as well as those in search of religion I
suspect that the sentiment expressed in the popular saying used to describe travel in China,
"tour temples during the day and sleep at night," is not one of modern invention
attracted tourists and pilgrims for centuries The association between natural mountain
settings and Buddhist monasteries is revealed in such terms as Chan forest (Chanlin ? 4 # )
to designate a Chan monastery or, more generally, the phrase "Mountain Gate" (shanmen
ill H) to indicate the main gate of a monastery, even one in a flat, or relatively flat, urban
area such as Quanzhou Kaiyuan Visiting monasteries in China, even those in urban areas,
is analogous to climbing a mountain with the front gate at the lowest elevation and the
back hall at the highest Visiting these monasteries requires climbing successively higher
6
    See, for example, Yang and Wei 2005 for state support of Hebei Bailm Monastery
7
    For relations between authorities and popular religious festivities see Dean 1993 and Chau 2006
have long visited monasteries in China, not only for their fine views, fresh air and distance
from the "dust of the world" but also for the art and architecture they might possess
historical document and work of literature, contains much information about early
remarkable, however, for their praise of aesthetic features rather than any religious
significance or power they may have The Yongning Pagoda of 516, for example, is
described as having nine roofs hung with a total of 120 golden bells with doors painted
         In addition, the doors were adorned with knockers made of golden rings
         The construction embodied the best of masonry and carpentry The
         elegance of its design and its excellence as an example of Buddhist
         architecture was almost unimaginable Its carved beams and gold door-
         knockers fascinated the eyes 8
The tradition of pagodas as the pride of monasteries and cities alike, as sights to
behold, as marvels that enthrall the eye—what we today call tourist sights—appears to
stretch back to sixth and seventh centuries when they began to dot the Chinese landscape 9
people nostalgic for old things can be satisfied by visiting it Evidence of self-promotion
along these lines occurred at Kaiyuan as early as the Yuan dynasty Accommodation, and
even the encouragement of sightseers, is evidenced by the fourteenth century walls erected
at Kaiyuan's front gate bearing characters announcing the presence of "eight auspicious
8
    Zhou Zumo (ed ) Luoyangjialanji jiaoshi, l,pp 20-21 Translation in Wang Yi-t'ung's A Record of
    Buddhist Monasteries in Luoyang, p 16 See also discussion m Kieschmck 2003 39-40
9
    Kieschmck 2003 39
Kaiyuan monastery for its scenic appeal during this period for we have an inscription that
amounts to a kind of graffiti on the central column of the East Pagoda which was left by a
group of visitors in 1349; it describes the pleasant weather and magnificent view from the
Timothy Brook's Praying for Power examines the patronage of Buddhist monasteries by
the late-Ming gentry. Brook finds that late-Ming gentry retreated to Buddhist monasteries
to escape the hustle and bustle of the world and enjoy cultural pursuits. A Fujian gazetteer
describes monasteries as places where gentry retreat "to enjoy the view, drink wine,
compose poetry, and cleanse themselves thoroughly of the dust of this world."11 Such
motivations were so common in Nanjing at the end of the sixteenth century that Feng
Mengzhen ^ ^ H C (1546-1605) complained: "The gentry come just for the sights and no
      Inscription on the central column of the East pagoda (1349), author's name not legible The
     inscription in foil reads: "Third day of lunar November {zhongdong # # ) of 1349 (9th year of
     Zhizheng) in the Yuan Dynasty. I accompanied Secretariat Drafter Zhang Bao Bo'ang (Zhongshu
     zhisheng sheren       tf34$A^#A^Sffi      up) and Prefectural Supervisor (Jianjun $ZM>) XieYuhShiyu
     I^BxALtSjE came to climb the East Pagoda Today the sun is in the south, the weather is pleasantly
     warm, ominous clouds are breaking up while the mountains and the city are exceptionally magnificent.
     It makes us feel that time is passing so quickly and since getting together is so difficult we engrave this
     stone to remember this trip " The names of more than fifteen others are listed as present, not
     including the two previously named Three of the visitors were from Gaochang iU H in today's
      Xinjiang 0 r i l (to the west of China proper), they are surnamed Xie #?, which is not a Han surname,
      suggesting they are natives of the country to the west of China which is now dominated by Muslims
11
     Shounmg xianzhi 1686,7 21b Translated in Brook 1993 108
12
     Jinshan zhilue 1681 I, tiandijiue, 4a Translated in Brook 1993 110
manifestations. John Kieschnick observes: "In addition to serving as a dwelling for monks
and as devotional, economic, and social centers. None of this is new. ... from the
beginning, monasteries served as sites of lay as well as monastic devotion, for secular
While the connection between what we may term tourism and temples can be
traced back as far as the Tang Dynasty and the cultural properties of temples were
targeted for preservation in the 1950s and early 1960s, the notion that temples and
monasteries may play a key role in planned economic development is an idea that has
come to prominence only within the past thirty years under such mottoes as "Culture sets
the stage and the economy performs" (wenhua dataijingji changxi JCi^Wi'u Mi^Rs^c
). Local elites see their support of temples not as a source of blessings or merit as they
once did, but as part of the community's economic development scheme. A popular
temple, whether it boasts historical artifacts, spiritual power or both, can attract tourists or
pilgrims from outside the community who contribute to the local economy.14 Temples also
A somewhat ironic consequence of this notion about culture serving as a base for
economic development is that historical artifacts and sites of historical importance have
13
     Kieschnick 2003:186-187.
u
     See Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005; Borchert 2005.
13
     Several studies have mentioned the economic motivations of local officials when supporting the
     construction or re-construction of temples. See for example, Ashiwa and Wank 2006: 348; Eng and
     Lin 2002:1271-1773; Fisher 2008:152; Feuchtwang 2001: 246; Lai 2003: 112; Yang and Wei 2005:
     74-77.
the summer of 2009 I visited a coastal city north of Shanghai slated to be developed into a
exhibition hall displaying the development plans for the otherwise underwhelming city of
Lianyungang ^t^M. The exhibition hall sits on one end of a large plaza just across from
the city hall; its high-tech multi-media displays, which introduce potential investors to the
city and its development plans, include several exhibits on the ancient history of the area
and its significant cultural and historical features. On the other end of the plaza is a brand
new museum displaying a modest collection of historical artifacts from the area, as well as
local crafts.
What was clear from the exhibits and the language used by the city officials was
that the promotion of the culture and history of Lianyungang was an essential ingredient in
the plan to develop this city into a modern city and transportation hub. Taiwan's Foguang
Shan has secured permission to rebuild a Buddhist monastery in the region; this is no easy
task and requires no small amount of political maneuvering. Their success must be
attributed in part to the economic development plans of the city officials. The presence of
become a more open society that guarantees, in its words, freedom to believe in religion
(xinyang zongjiao ziyou, isW^$X il d3). The guarantee of this freedom and the presence
16
     This is similar to the promotion and selling of the traditional ("backward") culture of ethnic minorities
     in order to develop the economy and enjoy a higher (more modern) standard of living See Borchert
     2005 93 and Kang 2009 229 For religion, modernity and identity in Han communities see Jing 1996
     and Flower 2004
especially investors from Hong Kong, Singapore and Taiwan.17 Buddhist monasteries fit
into plans to attract investment on the one hand and domestic tourists on the other; as the
popular saying goes, "Culture sets the stage and the economy performs." Buddhist
monasteries and their restoration have long served as part of Communist China's regional
strategy of diplomatic relations,18 but have only recently found a niche in China's program
of economic development.19
that culture sets the stage for such development has been a boon, in some sense, to
monasteries with or without cultural artifacts; it has been the principal strategy used to
secure the support of local officials for restoration projects.20 Party officials and monks
alike regularly talk about the economic benefits that accrue to a community that restores a
temple. When I have asked officials and others how temples benefit the economy, the
answer is always tourism. The phrase used by an official in Quanzhou's Bureau of Cultural
17
       Lei&Yao2009. 91, Michie & Smith 1998- 38-39
18
      As mentioned in chapter three, Buddhist temples from early on in the communist era have been used
      as a bridge to build relations with countries that share a Buddhist heritage such as Japan and Burma
      (Welch 1961. 11 ) More recently, Buddhism has been used not only to build relations with countries
      sympathetic to Buddhism, but also the larger world community, as a way to improve China's image in
      the eyes of those who critique the crackdown on Falun Gong and the suppression of other religious
      groups The most recent and dramatic example of these uses of Buddhism has been the hosting of two
      world Buddhist forums by China in 2006 and 2009
19
     See a survey of temples m Guangdong by Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005 Borchert notes the economic
      motives behind religious revival in the Dai-lue region of Yunnan (Borchert 2005)
20
     "Culture" certainly includes Daoism and certain folk deities (e g Tianhou/Mazu) and they too benefit
      from the notion that cultural revival promotes economic growth I know that a group of Daoist and
      folk temples, for example, have been restored in downtown Suzhou as part of its economic/tourist
      development scheme See also Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005
development, cultural preservation and cultural revival on the one hand, and the central
place of religion in Chinese culture on the other, has generated a great deal of cooperation
between "curators" and "revivalists" in the restoration of temples in China since the
1980s.22
In addition to the use of culture to develop the attractiveness and quality of life
profile of a city in order to attract foreign and domestic investors and residents, historic
investors. Quanzhou's foreign investors are drawn primarily from the overseas Chinese
who have immigrated to Taiwan or Southeast Asia and who trace their roots to Quanzhou.
When these overseas Chinese return to their hometown, apart from visiting any family that
may remain, they typically wish to visit the temples where their family once worshiped and
if these temples no longer exist they are typically eager to assist in their rebuilding or
restoration.23 As the largest and most central monastery in Quanzhou, Kaiyuan tops the
lists of temples that many overseas Chinese (and would-be investors) wish to visit on their
21
      Personal communication, Wenwu ju, Quanzhou, 9/28/2009.
22
     Flower and Leonardl998; Flower 2004; Eng and Lin 2002:1271-1773; Fisher 2008:152; Wank &
     Ashiwa 2006. The cooperation between curators and revivalists has, however, over time turned to
     competition and rivalry See Kang 2009 Thomas Borchert examined the case of the building of a
     touristic-oriented temple for the Dai nationality in Southwest China in a paper delivered at the
     National meeting of the American Academy of Religion in Montreal, 2009.
23
     Kuah Khun Eng has researched the phenomenon of Singaporeans returning to rebuild their ancestral
     homes in Anxi which is a mountainous region which neighbors Quanzhou in Southern Fujian See her
     Rebuilding the Ancestral Village Singaporeans in China (Ashgate, 2000)
development.
identification of a national ethnic history replete with heroes and cultural achievements. It
is in the name of protecting national heritage that sites of historic and cultural value are
protected. Kaiyuan's cultural properties and, in particular, the pagodas, represent the skill
and ingenuity of the Chinese people and so deserve protection at the national level as
properties of value to the nation. The current regime naturally emphasizes the technical
and artistic value of such cultural properties rather than their religious value. One might
say then, that Kaiyuan and its cultural properties, like other temples throughout China,
have been integrated into a secularized national heritage that accords with the
disenchanted worldview of the Communist Party. Rather than being obliterated, as was
attempted during the Cultural Revolution, these cultural properties are now incorporated
into a de-sacralized narrative of national heritage. As part of the national heritage they fit
into the construction of national identity and into a related project of developing
While large famous temples like Kaiyuan have had an easier time with physical
restoration and financial support for the Sangha, their position as places of historic and
cultural value typically ensures that they will attract tourists. Tourists may bring in income,
24
     Other important temples are the non-Buddhist temples of Guandi and Tianhou (i.e. Mazu).
practice Beyond the influence of megaphone-bearing tour guides and their minions is the
directed towards display, spectacle and secular education, while, by degrees, being
when shrine halls have been transformed from places of worship into display rooms for
cultural and historic exhibits or souvenir shops Such places are staffed, not by monks, but
by workers, often young ladies in matching uniforms, who introduce visitors to the
ranging from temples that are inhabited by no monastics and are managed by the local
bureau of tourism or bureau of cultural heritage, such as Beijing's White Pagoda Temple
hundred monks and enjoy a high degree of autonomy such as Mount Taimu's Pingxing
are directly managed by bureaus of culture, tourism or cultural heritage inevitably possess
valuable cultural properties, historic value and/or a natural park-like setting Monasteries
of exceptional historic or cultural value have an easier time attracting the support of
officials and Buddhist patrons that is necessary for restoration and upkeep At the same
time, they are more likely to attract tourists and the interest of the government bureaus
already mentioned These bureaus and the noisy tour groups they encourage are the bane
has the upper hand on management decisions, the temple will exhibit varying degrees of
museumification. Museumification is at its most vulgar when a temple falls under the
benefits to the tourist while at the same time possibly, though not necessarily, attenuating
more prevalent the closer one is to Beijing, the political center, and perhaps provincial
capitals (which serve as satellites of Beijing). In 2009,1 visited three temples that exhibited
high degrees of occupation by secular forces all within or near the orbit of Beijing:
Hongluo Temple tlijl^f and Yunju Temple z^Jir^f, both lying on the outskirts of
Beijing, and Longxing Temple Hi;£4^F in Hebei province, just south of Beijing.27
Hongluo Temple is part temple, part park, in the mountains near the Mutianyu H
EHilfS section of the great wall. It has no resident monks, is directly managed by the local
government bureau of tourism and staffed by a team of young ladies in white shirts.
Although it is more than 1000 years old,28 the temple possesses no cultural relics and is
  This is something widely attested by laypersons and monks across China. Bailm Temple tt#^f, the
  large Chan monastery in Hebei, closed for two months in the spring of 2009 due to disturbances
  related to the tourist trade upon which people in the neighborhood have attempted to capitalize.
  What I have in mind here are such amenities that were rare in the past such as multi-lingual signs
  pointing out directions and introducing buildings as well as benches, new restrooms and manicured
  landscaping.
  To these one could add Tanzhe and Jietai Temples, each lying just outside Beijing, as well as Baita
  (white stupa) Temple within the city of Beijing I visited these temples, however, before I had
  identified the key role of the temple administrative commission and therefore did not ask the
  appropriate questions or make the appropriate observations to determine how they fit into the scheme I
  present here
  It was founded in the fourth century
loudspeakers throughout the temple, incense and other religious paraphernalia are sold
throughout the grounds and a steady stream of worshipers offer incense to statues of
Buddhas, bodhisattvas and patriarchs as they tour the extensive grounds that rise to
hilltops, which afford panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the smog of
Beijing. At the time of my visit no monastics lived at the temple, but there were monks, or
otherwise employees with shaved heads and dressed in robes, who reported to work in the
Beijing's Yunju Temple, which boasts the world's largest collection of stone
inscribed scriptures, is managed by a temple administrative commission, that is, not by the
Sangha. In addition to the more than 10,000 stone sutras, it has Tang Dynasty stupas and
an attractive natural setting. Most of the halls of this monastery have been converted into
museum-like display halls presenting interpretive exhibits of cultural relics found at the
temple such as ceramics and sutras written in blood. Employees in light-blue knit shirts
tend the halls and sell items throughout the grounds; the products they sell are primarily
religious in nature. When I entered the main hall a young lady who was a member of the
staff accosted me, quickly introduced the figures enshrined and immediately suggested I
purchase what appeared to be a small plastic temple credit card. She explained that the
cards entitled the bearer to the benefits of monks chanting in the hall for a full year. They
were available in three grades, 50, 100 and 200 RMB; the 100 RMB (14USD) card would
include a banner in the hall and a ritual service, while the 200 RMB card would include a
scroll of calligraphy, an alms bowl in a tote bag and two services. The cards and the
benefits of each is also explained on large posters that have been placed in multiple shrine
Temple, however, unlike Hongluo, does have a community of eleven monks. I spoke with
one of them who had been there for three months and he simply reported that Yunju was
not a Buddhist temple, it was a tourist site. I asked what he meant. Expressing a common
sentiment among members of the Sangha, he said there weren't enough monks living there;
a Buddhist temple, in other words, must be tended by the Sangha—at this temple,
about a three hour drive from Beijing in the city of Zhengding JE/E. Longxing is an urban
properties from the tenth century onward, including paintings, statues, buildings and the
inevitable oversized Qianlong and Kangxi steles. The abbot of the nearby Linji Temple l|&
y^^F informed me that the Sangha was working to reestablish itself there. What is likely
to happen, however, is something analogous to the situation at Xi'an's Famen Temple &fe H
^F, which is divided into two halves, one controlled by the bureau of tourism, the other by
the monks.
These three temples near Beijing, while they all have their own characteristics,
present one end of the spectrum of Buddhism in China today and one that would have
29
     Commercialization is less dependent on the presence or absence of state functionaries in management,
     temples can become commercialized without having any cultural properties to promote. Posting a
     schedule of fees for ritual services is a basic form of commercialization that one finds m many, if not
     most, temples
impression of Buddhism as barely alive and in the hands of curators is one that we
understandably held for decades of the People's Republic of China, the reality in China,
however, has been changing since reforms were inaugurated at the end of 1978 But
change has come at different paces to different parts of China I have made the observation
that the closer one is to Beijing (and other centers of political power such as provincial
capitals), the more likely one is to find temples that are in the hands of secular authorities
and deserve the moniker "tourist temple " One also finds monasteries free of such
secular incursions
Quanzhou Kaiyuan, which is far from Beijing, not in a provincial capital and in
Fujian, a province known for widespread religious participation, presents a different model
of how a famous temple full of cultural treasures negotiates with the secular powers that
valuable cultural properties has fully escaped the attention of curatorial forces and tourists,
autonomy from such curatorial pressures We have already seen how the abbot of Kaiyuan
has handled the administrative commission and its security guards on select occasions
Now we pick up the narrative of Kaiyuan's post-Mao revival under the leadership of the
,0
     See chapter three
under the small nucleus of monks who had stayed at the temple through the Cultural
Revolution and with funding assistance from compatriots in Singapore. While statues were
uncovered and re-gilded and worshipers bearing incense began to return, throughout the
1980s the halls remained under the jurisdiction of the cultural heritage management
committee and the temple administrative commission. The heritage committee had been
established in the 1950s to protect and maintain the temple properties; it went
underground during the Cultural Revolution, and, like the monks, re-emerged after the
death of Mao and asserted its jurisdiction over Kaiyuan's cultural properties.31 Tables
staffed by employees of the heritage committee were set up in all the halls containing
historic properties. The heritage committee also operated a research center and a souvenir
shop located in one of the shrine halls, precisely the kind of shop that devotees consider
tacky.
The heritage management committee, however, was not the only government
entity with jurisdiction over Kaiyuan. As a tourist attraction and the home of dozens of
monastics holding morning and evening devotions, Kaiyuan was seen fit, in the eyes of the
government and the Bureau of Religion, to have a temple administrative commission. The
temple administrative commission is a product of 1980s reform and opening policy which
loosened restrictions against religion and, at the same time, established means of oversight
and control of the legally recognized religious groups. At Kaiyuan, the temple
31
    Many entities and practices that were open to attack by Red Guards went underground for a period of
ten years during the Cultural Revolution and then re-emerged after the death of Mao These entities and
practices include all things having to do with religion, not to mention all thing perceived to be contrary to
the progress of the revolution, which included most literature, art and everyday items like small tea
cups—so many things that have become ubiquitous over the past twenty years it bears recalling how they
once were not
Brian J Nichols                  CHAPTER EIGHT. Curators and Revivalists                                 383
administrative commission operates entry and exit gates, sees that the grounds are secure
and offers tour guide services; it is self-funded through the sale of entrance tickets and
tour services. Members of this commission also operate two small kiosks. One of them
sells photo supplies and drinks; he has recently begun selling small souvenirs of Quanzhou
and incense. The other kiosk is staffed by a man who writes poems using the characters of
The combined effect of these two curatorial forces was to give Kaiyuan the kind of
touristy and contested feel that Gareth Fisher, an anthropologist who studies lay Buddhism
as curators rather than religionists sold tickets, monitored the gates, the grounds and the
halls and sold souvenir items, which generally had nothing to do with religion, inside the
Donor Ancestral Hall (Tanyue ci). While a similar situation prevails today at the temples I
mentioned above (Yunju, Hongluo and Longxing Temples) as well as many other temples
such as Beijing's famous Tanzhe y?ft^F and Jietai temples M n" # or Shanghai's Jade
Buddha Bift^F and Jing'an Temples ff- ;$c^F, the situation at Kaiyuan began to change in
The situation was able to progress under the leadership of the abbot Daoyuan who,
recovering monastic property, Daoyuan also engaged in many building projects as outlined
in chapter four. What his actions suggest in terms of this chapter's theme is his concern, as
32
     Gareth Fisher 2009, paper delivered at the 2009 AAR in Montreal, November 7.
concern he may have for preservation, which is the organizing concern for the curators. In
spite of his many successes, the abbot still had to share authority with two government
committees, the cultural heritage committee and the temple management commission.
In 1982, the heritage management committee funded the opening of a stele rubbing
and souvenir shop in the Donor's ancestral hall. Rubbings were made of the various stone
steles that had been collected at Kaiyuan during the curatorial turn of the Maoist period
and sold to visitors.33 This shop was a visible and prominent contributor to
curatorial forces. It was a sore point that was finally settled by Daoyuan in 2004.
Daoyuan was able to deal with the cultural heritage committee in much the same
way that he dealt with the other groups occupying space on temple property: he
successfully argued to municipal authorities that the property belonged to the monastery
and was therefore illegally occupied and he offered sufficient financial compensation to the
affected parties. The financial settlement for the Quanzhou Heritage Stele Rubbings shop
{Quanzhou shi wenwu beituo shangdian M.'M Tfj 2>t3£#£:£6 r§!J2j) was calculated by the
relevant municipal authorities, including the Bureaus of Finance and Labor and Social
Security, at 106,020 RMB (15,000USD). Daoyuan negotiated that Kaiyuan would pay
70,000 (10,000USD), while the remaining 36,020 would be paid by the Bureau of
Finance. The arguments offered for the recovery of this property under monastic control
33
     Ink rubbings on rice paper of historic steles is a relatively common souvenir item where steles have
      been collected such as the forest of steles in Xi'an
important institution to many overseas Chinese who are Huang family descendants. The
city of Quanzhou was then applying to UNESCO for world heritage status as the starting
point of the maritime silk route; the return and restoration of the Donor's Ancestral Hall
vacated the hall and the remaining rubbings were sent to the city museum; the steles are
said to have been distributed to various museums in the area. The Donor's Ancestral Hall,
consisting of three small rooms and courtyard lying to the east of the dharma hall, was
cleaned up and returned to its state as an ancestral shrine to Huang Shougong, the
temple's founding donor. In this way, the hall that had been used as a souvenir shop was
restored to monastic control and now functions solely as a shrine. I was fortunate to be in
2009. The three day memorial celebration marked the 1,380th anniversary of Huang
Shougong's birth and the 1,323rd anniversary of the founding of Kaiyuan Monastery; it
was attended by thousands of members of the "Purple Cloud" Huang family from
In addition to the return of this shrine hall the other divisions of the cultural
heritage committee, such as the research center, have been removed from Kaiyuan's
  The platform before the mam hall served as a kind of stage where speeches were made by Daoyuan and
  other distinguished guests m front of members of the Huang family from the Quanzhou region, the
  Philippines, Malaysia, Singapore, Shanghai and so on, who were arrayed by point of origin in folding
  chairs set up throughout Kaiyuan's expansive courtyard Bands played, a small parade was held and
  dozens of young ladies in uniform were on hand as greeters and tea servers The culmination, perhaps,
  was the grand sacrifice offered to the ancestral tablets of Huang Shougong in the Donor's Ancestral
  Hall. The Huang family expected to make meat sacrifices, but Kaiyuan insisted the offering be
  vegetarian, a characteristically Chinese compromise was reached by having animal forms made from
  vegetarian materials and offered
located in an office far from the Kaiyuan. The transfer from curator to revivalist in the case
of the cultural heritage committee and their shrine hall souvenir shop has been complete
The situation with the post-Mao entity known as the temple administrative
commission, however, has not been so easily resolved. An ad hoc decision or buyout has
not been possible because, unlike all the others, the commission is part of reform era
sites will typically have a temple administrative commission on site charged with
monitoring activities to make sure that the temple acts in accordance with the law. This
). The "two tracks" are management by the government and management by members of
the religious order. The duties of Kaiyuan's administrative commission include selling
After the strong-arm tactics of 2002, the abbot has managed to win concessions
and clearly gain the upper hand without being able, nonetheless, to fully dislodge the
longer stationed in the gates and no one is allowed to park in front of the main gate,
35
     David Wank and Yoshiko Ashiwa have recorded a similar conflict between the monastic leadership
     and the administrative commission at Xiamen's Nanputuo Temple. Unlike Kaiyuan, Nanputuo's
     commission profited from an array of tourist related business it operated near the temple entrance.
     Zhao Puchu helped reduce the power of the commission by having it re-designated a business post
     (shiwu suo) rather than a commission with administrative duties. Wank & Ashiwa 2006 41-42.
effectively removed from all the temple buildings except for the ticket booths in the gates
and two small offices; monks are now responsible for monitoring all of the halls. The
monks have also begun to take on the task of watching the gates, especially in the evening.
From the late nineties to the present, the number of employees of the administrative
commission has been reduced by half, from sixty to thirty. The temple has also been able
to negotiate to receive 50% of the sales from entrance tickets, whereas previously they
had received none of this money.37 According to one estimate this brings in four million
RMB to the temple per year. The abbot has said, however, that he would not sell tickets if
he were able to abolish the administrative commission.38 The abbot has effectively been
able to force the commission to recognize him as their boss and win back a significant
level of autonomy on behalf of the sangha at this monastery. As a result, Kaiyuan feels
more like a monastery that attracts tourists, than a tourist site where a few monks live.
This last point is quite important because we may be inclined to place all temples
that serve as tourist attractions together in the same category, a category that tends to
devalue such places as "tourist temples." The reality, I hope to have demonstrated, is more
nuanced. We have seen a sample of the many temples in China which serve as tourist
attractions, each with their own characteristics—at one extreme is the temple that has
converted into a museum like Yangzhou's Tianning Temple, at the other is Pingxing
36
     The effect of this change has been so dramatic that business outside the main gate complain that they
     have lost lots of money since the change. Of five restaurants that were once there, only two remian.
37
      During the last conversation I had with the abbot, at the end of 2009, he suggested that the monastery
     now controlled the money generated from gate tickets and paid out salaries to the members of the
     temple management group.
     Personal communication, 2006.
Beijing, which are all managed by curators who have succeeded in presenting them more
as museums than as living religious institutions. Quanzhou Kaiyuan offers a contrast with
the museumified temples discussed above; the key difference is that it is managed by
revivalists, by its monastic leadership, who have invested Kaiyuan with a distinctly
in Chinese monasteries with the abbot as the head representative and final authority. Just
below the abbot is the general manager (jianyuari) who handles the day to day business of
the monastery as well as public relations; since 2008 or so Kaiyuan has had three co-
managers. Below the general manager are several monk officers such as a sacristan (yibo)
who accompanies and handles the personal business of the abbot as needed, the guest
prefect who escorts important visitors and handles many other tasks, and several other
monks who head various divisions of the traditional monastic bureaucracy (the heads of
various halls and so on). All of the monks answer to the abbot and the abbot (from what I
have gathered) makes most decisions about the monastery and its money relatively
independently. The provincial level of the Bureau of Religious Affairs has power over him,
While the monks of Kaiyuan, generally speaking, may not be learned in doctrine or
accomplished in practice, by taking control of the monastic space and dedicating its use to
39
     The positions that Daoyuan holds in the CBA and m branches of the government have helped position
     him in this relatively autonomous position, only the provincial level Bureau of Religion could exert
     control, but Daoyuan maintains good relations with them
buildings and the creation of landscaped gardens and stone sculptures and engravings. In
2006, Daoyuan stated that work on the temple since he began to manage affairs had cost
more than forty million RMB (about five million USD).40 While they include aesthetic
enhancements that contribute to the experience of visitors, they also contribute to the
revival of Kaiyuan as a place of religious practice. The landscaped areas provide new
spaces for contemplation; individual monks walk and circumambulate in these areas and I
have seen at least one lay visitor meditating in the new courtyard of the Hall of the
Buddha's Life. Some monks at Kaiyuan speak of the current period of restoration as one
focused on hardware, which is seen as an important and necessary step in revival. They
hope, nevertheless, for a future which allows focus on the software, by which they mean
Kaiyuan's affairs he has not been able to fully dislodge the temple administrative
administrative commission remains in check, it also remains on the grounds at Kaiyuan and
in charge of selling entrance tickets and offering tours from a small office on the grounds
of the monastery. Some authorities refer to this situation, which is a feature of religious
40
     Interview, 2006.
commission and the management of most other affairs by the monks. This dual system of
formalizes the two roles of contemporary Kaiyuan monastery: a place for religious
practice and a place for sight-seeing and leisure. The abbot and the monastic bureaucracy
oversees tourist pursuits. While the monks do not collect entry tickets or provide guide
service, they (especially the guest prefect) are sometimes called upon to accompany high
gates, selling tickets, staffing a small office, running a small tour office and manning two
small kiosk all on the property of Kaiyuan monastery. In these activities—the selling and
collecting of entry tickets, the offering of tour guide service from the grounds of Kaiyuan
presence, there would be thousands of tourists, but the temple clerics would not cater to
the tourists in the same way that the fully secular administrative commission does. The
abbot has claimed that he would not sell entry tickets and I'm confident that monks would
the dual institution that Kaiyuan is today: Buddhist monastery and tourist site. Tourism
Daoyuan's successful bids for greater autonomy have enabled revivalists to set the tone in
Kaiyuan's restoration. The following chapter further explores how Kaiyuan manages its
         Its reputation has not declined, and those nostalgic for things old can still
         hear about and experience it. !
                                                                -Yuanxian (1643)
Monasteries and tourism, as has been noted, enjoy a long history in China.
Furthermore, many monks, before they are monks, visit temples as tourists thus
open to tourists can, in that capacity, propagate the dharma (the teachings of Buddhism).
Tourism, nevertheless, is noisy and inevitably disturbs the tranquil atmosphere most
conducive to contemplative practice.3 This chapter examines how Kaiyuan has negotiated
between the demand to accommodate tourists on the one hand, and the demands to
provide a place for religious devotion on the other. The challenge that Kaiyuan and other
Since at least the Yuan dynasty, if not earlier, Kaiyuan has attracted people
thirsting for a taste of culture, history or refinement. A place that satisfies desires for
these finer things, but in a more antiseptic environment, is a museum. Kaiyuan monastery
is today, in fact, the home of three separate museums. It houses the museum of an
ancient Song dynasty wooden ship that was excavated in Quanzhou harbor in 1974, a
  Sizhi I la.
" I have confirmed this in conversation with several monks.
^ M a k l e y ^ g 101,152
century master Hongyi. Despite the presence of three museums, Kaiyuan Monastery itself
has avoided the stale museum-like quality that can invade an ancient monastery that
receives thousands of tourists every week. It also avoids the tourist park atmosphere that
one finds at sites managed by secular authorities such as the temples described in the
previous chapter (e.g. Hongluo, Yunju, Longxing etc.). Kaiyuan's population of more
than eighty reasonably disciplined monks who regularly conduct morning and evening
services, eat vegetarian meals in common and otherwise tend the halls and lead rituals
as a problem at Kaiyuan and countless other temples and monasteries in China. Attendant
with the problem of tourism is the problem of commodification. This chapter explores
Tourism brings money to local economies, it encourages state support for the
rebuilding and restoration of religious sites and provides many temples with a much
needed source of funds. The problem with tourism, voiced by many clerics, is that it 1)
damages the quiet atmosphere conducive to religious practice and 2) detracts clerics from
religious practice. Ven. Dr. Jing Yin, director of the Center of Buddhist Studies at Hong
Kong University, has expressed grave concerns about the commercialization of Buddhist
principally tourist attractions, the danger is that the energy of monks becomes devoted
Brian J. Nichols      CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   394
chiefly to receiving tourists, leaving no time for the sangha or to engage in Buddhist
practice."4
Kaiyuan and other monasteries where they have lived. Those expressing these thoughts,
however, were monks with higher positions or charged with monitoring the main hall or
ordination platform. For these monks, their responsibilities keep them busy with the
public on a daily basis and they have little time for practice. But these are the monks with
positions and specific jobs, not the rank-and-file monks who attend morning and evening
services and who are engaged in other rituals, including the twice-weekly nianfo sessions.
practitioners, I argue that they are provided an opportunity to practice and are supported
in that by the other monks tending the halls and taking care of other administrative
matters. Such a situation has structural similarities, alluded to in chapter five, with
traditional monastic training such as that described by Buswell (Korean Zen) and Dreyfus
(Tibetan Gelukba scholasticism).5 In both cases a small minority of monks was supported
in their religious pursuit (meditation for Buswell, study for Dreyfus) by the majority of
the monks who had more menial, if relaxed, duties. The difference at Kaiyuan is that the
"religious core" is not valorized. Unlike monks with positions, those participating in the
daily service did not win a place in this hall, it is the default position for unremarkable
monks. Nevertheless, the daily services form the core of communal monastic cultivation.
Below I will explore the space of daily services and other spaces and potentials for
religious practice that Kaiyuan affords—spaces and potentials which would not be
4
    Jing Yin 2006: 91-92.
5
    Buswell 1992; Dreyfus 2003.
Brian J. Nichols          CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   395
evident to a visitor who arrived during the day and spoke to the monks in the main hall.
Similarly, I will examine the dimensions of tourist disturbances—we will find that there
what extent commodification has taken place, if at all. Jing Yin has identified this as
another important issue: "Monasteries are now becoming active participants in the
life.. .Needless to say, this commodification runs the risk of impairing the ability of
liberate being from suffering and to propagate the dharma."6 To make any determination
With this definition in mind, I will explore Kaiyuan's fundraising methods to determine
three fundamental features of Kaiyuan: founding, physical structure and space and
function. Kaiyuan's traditional founding narratives have been explored in chapter seven;
this chapter examines the "founding" of Kaiyuan as a tourist site. The examination of
physical structure and space that began in chapter six will be extended in this chapter
with a focus on the issues of tourism and commodification—how are structures and space
6
    Jing Yin 2006: 96-97.
Brian J. Nichols            CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site             396
deployed to encourage or discourage tourism and commodification? As for function,
chapter five described the religious life of Kaiyuan as exhibited in the actions of monks,
laity and worshipers This chapter examines the nature of exchanges between the
monastery and its patrons—to what extent have these exchanges become commodified'7
We begin these critical explorations by considering the experience of visitors entering the
monastery
monks, which are visible to visitors entering the mam gate, serve to sanctify or sacrahze
Kaiyuan, distinguishing the monastery and its grounds from the rest of the mundane
world as a place of numinous power and dharmic potential At the same time they also
While inscriptions outside the main gate allude to Kaiyuan's auspicious founding,
there are other signs which welcome the sightseer with no religious pretensions, most
important in this regard are plaques and inscriptions designating Kaiyuan as an Important
National Cultural Heritage Protected Site An inscription in the main courtyard indicates
Protected Site in 1982 Another inscription commemorates its designation in the first
batch of important provincial cultural heritage protected sites in May of 1961 Signboards
posted in the mam gate, introducing the monastery and indicating the 10 RMB ticket
price, both repeat this important information, informing visitors that they are visiting a
Brian J Nichols        CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                  397
site of national cultural importance. These inscriptions and plaques are tell-tale
indications of a tourist site in China. They convey information that promotes Kaiyuan as
"Purple Cloud" alluding to the monastery's founding, these others allude to Kaiyuan's
The signboard indicating a 10RMB (1.50 USD) entrance fee hangs above a
window where tickets may be purchased right inside the main gate where two huge
guardian figures are enshrined. Tickets may also be purchased inside a small booth in the
newly built gate on the west side of the monastery. The ticket booths at Kaiyuan are
much less conspicuous than they are at most temples that are major tourist attractions,
nonetheless they are present and visitors who are not recognized as locals will be asked to
purchase a ticket [Figure 67]. If the visitor is not recognized, but has a Buddhist I.D. card,
the entrance fee may be waved, but without the card they will be required to pay and this
Buddhists who feel they should have free access to the monastery, but who are
required to pay feel indignant about the commodification of entrance to the monastery.
heritage. Access to the monastery for regulars and card-carrying Buddhists has not been
allowed in without a ticket, but many pious Buddhists, including foreign monks, do not
have the ID cards that gate operators accept and they are forced to pay. Jing Yin express
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery! and Tourist Site                  398
        religious desire to visit. To give an example from my own experience, in
        June 1993 I visited the ancestral shrine of Chan Buddhism, the Shaohn
        Temple on Mt. Song. At the foot of Mt. Song, long before I could see
        Shaolin Temple, I was asked to buy a ticket at a booth. I attempted to ask
        for a waiver because I am a monk. The man was very impatient and said,
        'You must pay to enter, no matter who you are. That is the regulation.' I
        considered it a great pity that a monk has to buy a ticket to return to his
        own ancestral shrine.
One might think that monks would be allowed entrance, but there are fake monks
(shaven-headed, robe-wearing scam artists) who would exploit visitors to temples and
since these should not be allowed in for free, gate keepers must rely on personal
required to purchase entrance tickets. Presumably more common is the experience of lay
Buddhists who are not allowed free entry to temples. This could happen if a) they do not
possess or have in their possession proof of taking refuge (guiyi zheng) or b) the temple
in question is a tourist site (luyoujingdian) without monastics. In the latter case visitors
will typically be asked to purchase a ticket whether or not they have proof of being a
Buddhist.8
allows lay persons free entry, but only those recognized by gate keepers or with I.D.
cards. In the case of a sincere Buddhist who does not have the proper form of I.D., they
will feel that entrance to the Dharma World of the Lotus-Blooming Mulberry has been
commodified—and for them it has been. Given this the fee is problematic, but I do not
consider a modest admission fee to a religious site of historical and cultural value
7
 JmgYm2006 91
8
 Fisher describes accompanying a lay Buddhist with her I D (guiyi zheng) to Beijing's White Pagoda
Temple (baila si) She expected free entry, but was required to pay (Fisher's paper at the 2009 AAR
conference in Montreal).
Brian J Nichols         CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                             399
inherently wrong. A fee can help insure funds for maintenance and protection of the site
The question still remains regarding those religiously-motivated visitors who are
required to purchase an entrance ticket (because they lack proper I.D.)—is this sufficient
reason to abandon the practice of charging admission? The abbot has said he would not
charge admission if he could oust the administrative commission and take control of the
gate. Unfortunately we do not know if he would follow through with this, but it does
provide us with the indication that Kaiyuan's leadership opposes the perception or fact of
commodification that is represented by the admission ticket. While it is not ideal, I feel
that it can be justified by recognizing that provisions are made to allow Buddhists free
entry in a manner that is different from strictly tourist sites such as Beijing's White
Pagoda Temple, which require every visitor, Buddhist or not, to purchase an admission
ticket.9
Apart from Buddhists who may be charged an admission fee, what other impact
does the temple administration have as gate managers? All visitors during normal hours
(4A.M. to 5 P.M.), except insiders who know about the back gate(s), must enter through a
gate controlled by the temple administrative commission. This has the unfortunate effect
of refraining the visitor's experience according to grammar and signs provided by the
commission in the liminal space between the city and the monastery. Apart from having
to purchase a ticket at a small booth (excepting the exceptions previously noted), visitors
will then have to pass through turnstiles which lead out of the east side of the main gate
9
 Garth Fisher related an experience about the White Pagoda Temple at the 2009 AAR conference in
Montreal When Jmg Yin visited Shaolin Temple he was told that everyone had to purchase a ticket
Brian J Nichols          CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                         400
or the north of the west gate. Those who are recognized as returning Buddhists or those
who live or work at the temple (such as myself at the time) are not required to pass
through the turnstile, they enter through the "out" side of the gate to the west (to one's
left), where a man sits at a table drinking tea and watching a small T. V. This man is part
of the front gate crew, an employee of the temple administration commission. While
Buddhists and insiders are able to bypass the ticket booth and turnstiles, they still pass by
an employee watching T.V. and smoking—this reminds them that non-monastic entities
are controlling access to the monastery. The whole gate operation—ticket booth,
turnstiles, plainclothes people asking visitors to buy tickets, monitoring their flow,
watching T.V. -is orchestrated by the temple administrative commission. This is what I
referred to above as the grammar and signs of this liminal space. Their presence,
including the the ticket booth, the turnstiles and various plaques, competes for attention
with the towering Hum Ha generals who stand guard and the pair of verses by Zhu Xi.
These sculptures and verses mitigate the presence of the commission, but the commission
still structures the experience (ticket booth, turnstile, interaction with non-monastic
personnel). If entering by the new west gate, where most tour groups enter, there are no
sculptures or calligraphy—in short, there is nothing traditional and the experience is fully
framed by the commission. At both entrances the turnstiles, in particular, suggest to the
visitor that he or she is entering a site of entertainment value. While clear boundaries
serve to distinguish Kaiyuan from the streets and neighborhoods outside (from the
mundane world), they also serve, in combination with the ticket booths and turnstiles, to
10
     The entry and exit turnstiles are located next to one another on the north side of the west gate.
Brian J. Nichols             CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                           401
         Entering Kaiyuan by these gates is a re-framing, because the physical presence of
the monastery asserts itself before one enters by either gate. Depending on one's angle of
approach, one see the pagodas, halls, inscriptions or simply large trees all of which
provide an initial framing for one's visit according to the signs and grammar of the
monastery. This initial, enchanted framing is displaced or modified by that of the temple
administrative commission. This is the primary way in which they institutionalize tourism
monitoring turnstiles. They make it clear that Kaiyuan is not only a place for religious
practice, but also a site for tourists. Incarnations of this commission is responsible for
One of the most commonly cited complaints about tourism and its impact on
monasteries is that of the noisy (in all senses of the word) disturbances that attend tour
groups. Monasteries, if they are to be places of religious cultivation, must provide times
yes. While peace and quiet is not a constant at Kaiyuan, it is regular. The regularity of it
is guaranteed by Kaiyuan's effective use of buffers between the monastic grounds and the
clearly demarcated from its surrounding environment. It is bound by stone fencing and a
line of trees to the south and west, a wall along most of the east and buildings along the
north. In short, the boundaries of the monastery are clearly evident and there is never a
1
 ' See a particularly salient example of this at temples in Sichuan associated with Tibetan religion (Kang
2009)
Brian J Nichols           CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                               402
question of whether one is inside or outside this monastery's space. In addition, the
walls, trees and landscaping provide an effective and much needed buffer from the bustle
that lies just beyond the monastery's walls to the south and west [Figures 71-73]. The
separation from the world outside the gates is less in evidence during the day when tour
groups regularly visit, than it is in the evenings when the tour groups and visitors have
dispersed, the gates have been closed, the employees of the commission have gone and
Entering and exiting the monastery after nightfall is a most distinctive experience;
As one approaches the gate to exit the monastery, sounds of traffic slowly grow from a
low hum to a dull rumble that breaks into the pops and gasps of motorbikes, the
squeaking brakes and engines of buses and the general commotion of commerce that one
finds just outside the gate of the monastery. Conversely, the experience of entering the
quiet stillness of the monastery from the frenetic street outside is equally striking.
This is a side of the monastery that few people apart from the monks, ever
witness. It is the time of day that the quietude that one characteristically expects to find at
a monastery finally arrives. There are monks who take advantage of the evenings to
engage in contemplative practices that are impossible during the day such as
circumambulating the hall of the ordination platform or taking quiet strolls among the
grounds. The quietude that allows these practices is ensured by the substantial buffer
created by the walls, trees and landscaping along the borders of the monastery. Effective
demarcation from the outside (mundane) world allows visitors to feel they are entering a
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   403
sacred space during the day (see chapter six) and contributes to an atmosphere of
I visited a small temple in the mountains of Fujian where there was no such
demarcation and the atmosphere suffered accordingly. The abbot wished he could buy
out the two farmers who owned land on either side of the small temple. Unable to do so,
he effectively had to share his property with the farmers, their cows and chickens. The
atmosphere was quaint, but it distinctly lacked the numinous appeal of Kaiyuan. It is a
lack that could well account for some of the difficulty the young abbot has experienced in
attracting patrons.
I have visited urban monasteries in Beijing and Xi'an that have neighboring
buildings leaning over and dwarfing their walls. Kaiyuan has no such encroachments, but
before Daoyuan had succeeded in evicting the myriad work units and residents from
surrounding the east pagoda and engulfing the entire area now occupied by the abbot's
quarters. Until control of these properties had returned to monastic hands, Kaiyuan was
without the kind distinct demarcation that it now enjoys and it was more like a public
park than a place for religious practice. This is a situation that has changed, in part, due to
the recovery of properties and the establishing of clear lines of demarcation from the non-
monastic world—this is something that Kaiyuan, as an urban monastery, has gotten right.
Near the end of the north-south axis is the Dharma Hall and Scripture Library.
The Dharma Hall is where a group of about thirty monks holds daily morning and
evening services. From the perspective of the monks, it may be considered the religious
Brian J. Nichols      CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                    404
heart of the monastery. It is the only center for communal self-cultivation at this
monastery, unless one counts the dining hall. Apart from morning and evening services,
which form the most basic set of ritual practice today in Chinese monastic Buddhism,
there are no other rituals conducted here. Typically, morning service lasts about an hour
from 4:30 to 5:30AM and evening service is about half an hour from 5:30 to 6:00 PM;
sometimes services are abbreviated (if the monks are busy), sometimes extended (if it is a
special day, e.g. Guanyin's ordination). The furnishings of the dharma hall are the
simplest of any hall at Kaiyuan and there are no historic or cultural relics [Figures 74,
76]. The lack of activity during the middle of the day and the lack of cultural relics serves
While the second floor surra library (see chapter six) contains many treasures, it is
closed to tourists. The sutra library is locked and guarded by a monk who lives there and
monitors any would-be visitors with the help of security cameras to which he has access
in his private office. He is custodian and, one might say, guardian of the treasures stored
above the dharma hall. When I have asked to see the Tripitikas, he has solemnly opened
the cases for me with a bow [Figure 38]. He has a basic knowledge of the holdings of the
library, but he is not well informed about them nor does he have much knowledge of
Buddhist scripture in general. He has made a catalogue at the request of the abbot, but
other than this, there is no indication that he is actively researching any of the library's
holdings or their significance, nor, for that matter, is anyone else. The library is closed to
the public and access is provided only to those with special interest and/or connections.
Should Kaiyuan wish to make the library a tourist attraction it could easily do so (blood
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                       405
sutras are always a draw). The scripture library of Fuzhou's Gushan Monastery, for
example, includes a room displaying select texts and illustrations in glass cases.
atmosphere at the back of the monastery where the monks conduct morning and evening
services, take their meals and live; it does so by effectively keeping visitors, even
devotees, confined to the main hall, ordination hall, main courtyard, museums and
landscaped areas, all of which are removed from the living and practice quarters of the
monastics.
functioning religious environment. While this is not a point I wish to belabor, it is worth
noting because many halls at other Buddhist temples serve only marginal, if any,
religious functions. As mentioned in chapter eight, Shanghai's Jade Buddha Temple has
shrine halls that have been converted in souvenir shops, Beijing's Yunju Temple has
shrine halls that have been converted in museum-style exhibit halls and Yangzhou's
Tianning Temple has been fully converted into a museum bereft of any formal
in China, has restored its entire central axis to religious functioning (see chapter five for
rituals and devotional activities in the main hall and ordination hall).
The only shrine rooms at Kaiyuan that have been converted to other uses are in
the former CundT Chan Temple, which was founded during the Qing dynasty, and is now
rather, it has become the Buddhist Museum of Quanzhou and contains statues, bells and
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                    406
other artifacts collected at Kaiyuan (see chapter six). At the rear of this museum is a
separate museum dedicated to master Hongyi. These museums are monitored by monks
rather than employees of the temple commission; this contributes significantly to the
potential for devotional enjoyment of the objects displayed. In addition, tour groups do
not bring visitors to these museums, only independent tourists and devotees can be found
visitors about Buddhist history and culture and the life of master Hongyi. Although these
museums are not sites of religious practice, they are not strictly in the service of secular
forces given the work they do to direct attention to Buddhist history, antiquities and
culture. Furthermore, there is no vending whatsoever in these museum spaces; the focus
is solely on education. In addition, the museums are in the northeastern corner of the
monastic grounds, well removed from the central axis where all of Kaiyuan's formal
Adjoining the small Kaiyuan museum area is the newly constructed Hall of the
Buddha's Life. Daoyuan's decision to construct the hall of the Buddha's life and
and Hongyi has added a large space conducive to contemplation and reflection on the
meaning of episodes in the Buddha's life and the virtue of protecting and liberating
12
   As discussed in chapter eight, there are degrees of museumification that occur at temples in China.
Although it no longer serves as a shrine hall, small Kaiyuan also does not serve as a place for commercial
activity, unlike the situation one finds at other temples in China. There is also a question of who manages
the museum-like spaces. In the case of Kaiyuan it is the monks who monitor, open and close these spaces;
they "own" these museum spaces. At other temples, such as those discussed in chapter eight, this is not the
case.
Brian J. Nichols         CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                             407
animals, great and small. There is no program of ritual or religious activity in these
spaces, but the space is open to individuals who feel drawn to it. The monk who is the
keeper of this hall may be seen quietly sitting at a desk in the corner reading scripture.
throughout the day; this monk is from southern Fujian and has impressed me with his
steady demeanor of calm and focus, a demeanor we expect from those in the monastic
vocation, but one that is all too rare. I have also seen one lay person sitting in meditation
in this area in the early morning before tour groups begin to arrive. If this quiet and
enclosed space had not been created in the northeastern corner of the compound, there
would be less opportunity for these individuals and others like them to purse these forms
of religious cultivation.
           Buddhist monks and nuns were often represented as being poor and
           socially withdrawn, but we know the reality in Asia was quite the
           opposite. Throughout East Asia, and particularly in China, the sangha
           became, among other things, one of the most powerful economic forces in
           society. Those Buddhist monasteries in the Chinese empire that sought to
           accumulate wealth increased their chances of institutionalized longevity.
           A large Buddhist monastery was thoroughly institutional, that is, a social
           and physical structure that defined, imposed, and maintained sets of social
           values, and sought to acquire and distribute capital—economic, cultural,
                                                    1 "\
           or otherwise—in a competitive manner.
Walsh is writing about medieval Chinese Buddhism. How did Buddhist monasteries
justify such competitive behavior? Walsh answers, "Promoting the stability and growth
13
     Walsh 2010: 6.
Brian J. Nichols         CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   408
of a Buddhist monastery was tantamount to ensuring the survival of Buddhism."1
Turning from the medieval period to the contemporary one, Jing Yin writes:
Jing Yin's phrase "money-making machine" reflects the same spirit as the official in the
they are characterized, it is a fact that large, famous monasteries in China do well
financially. Quanzhou Kaiyuan, as well as Nanputuo and Fuzhou's Gushan and many
others are all large, financially successful institutions. Walsh makes the legitimate point
that the accumulation of wealth was valued by monastics as a means to insure the
longevity of the monastic institution and therefore the survival of Buddhism. Jing Yin's
observation, however, questions the ability of monks to practice or teach the dharma if
they are preoccupied with accumulating wealth. If Jing Yin's critique is valid, then
preserving Buddhism could just as well be done, it seems, by burying sutras carved on
stone such as was done during the medieval period at Yunju Monastery. In other words,
if no monks or nuns are able to study and teach or exemplify the dharma through
practice, then what need have we for monastics? My sense is that Jing Yin's critique is
valid up to a point. Where it breaks down is in the implication that most monks should be
involved in teaching and practicing Buddhism and further assumptions about what
practicing Buddhism may or may not entail. I have already suggested that only a minority
14
   Walsh 2010. 7. Walsh's study focuses on Tiantong Monastery, which, like Kaiyuan was a large well-
endowed monastery near a seaport.
15
   Jing Yin 2006: 86.
Brian J Nichols          CHAPTER NINE- Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                             409
of monastics at a given site has ever been empowered to be dedicated to practice, study or
teaching. Furthermore, who is to say that monks monitoring halls are not "practicing"
Buddhism. My research suggests that some are, some aren't. A hall monitoring monk
may cultivate patience, contemplate impermanence or recite the Buddha's name while
monitoring.
One of Jing Yin's central claims is that the focus on accumulating wealth has
distracted monks from religious pursuits. My research confirms that monks involved
with the managing of money are indeed distracted from religious cultivation. But it may
be said that they are sacrificing the opportunity for deeper practice by looking after
monastic finances for the good of the sangha. Money, nonetheless, is a sensitive issue.
Let's examine Kaiyuan's fundraising practices to determine if and how they may be seen
The differences between the standard of living of monks in large high profile
urban temples and those in small rural temples are much like the differences between
China's nouveau riche in the urban centers along the east coast and their comrades in the
less developed regions of central and western China. Just as the former can afford to
travel while the latter cannot, so do monastics with positions at successful urban
monasteries enjoy the benefits of travel and fancy cell phones. Early in my fieldwork I
was sitting and talking to a monk at Kaiyuan about his ordination and had with me a
Chinese friend who is a school teacher. When we left, the school teacher turned to me
with a look of surprise and incredulity: "Did you see the cell phones these monks have?
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE. Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                  410
They are very expensive!" Fancy cell phones, laptops and designer monk apparel are all
What is the source of monastic wealth? The information I have gathered about
Kaiyuan makes it clear that although a good amount of money is generated by ticket sales
associated with the tourist industry, a great deal more is generated by the prestige of
being a famous monastery that attracts greater numbers of worshipers and inspires them
to give more to the monastery in the form of offerings and what amounts to fees that are
reputation as a site of history and culture attracts tourists, its reputation as an auspicious
place of spiritual power assists in attracting worshipers and Buddhists. Those who come
to worship, whether or not they purchase an entry ticket, typically make donations as part
of the economy of blessings. Simply put, the economy of blessings is the notion that if
one gives a donation with a sincere petition one will receive blessings or generate merit
in return. I use the term "economy of blessings," rather than say "economy of merit,"
because Kaiyuan's many worshipers most often speak of blessings and protection
rather than merit (gongde). Articulated and enacted in various forms, the economy of
blessings is the engine that generates the bulk of the donations received by the Buddhist
16
  According to my informants the remaining ¥5 goes to the temple management commission. This was the
case in 2006, in 2009, however, the abbot suggested that the monastery received all of the funds and paid
salaries to the ticket sellers and others in the temple management commission. See chapter six.
Brian J. Nichols         CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                           411
                              17
Sangha throughout Asia             After the dramatic social upheavals of the Republican and
Communist periods and the loss of traditional, landed sources of income, the economy of
blessings has taken on greater prominence as a means of financial support for Kaiyuan as
                                                 1 R
While donations are given to monks in exchange for ritual services, much more
money is collected from offerings made at collection boxes distributed along the central
axis of the monastery, placed in front of statues and halls and, especially on lunar twenty-
sixth days Kaiyuan's auspicious reputation makes it an attractive place for individuals to
participate in the economy of blessings, a phenomenon that Gareth Fisher has termed the
cash-merit relationship in his study of lay Buddhist patronage ' This relationship
particular value and appeal to lay Buddhists. Lay Buddhists plant seeds (donations) in the
Sangha-based field of merit in order to grow merit Worshipers, meanwhile, are more
17
   People regularly give alms or make a donation at the temple where a given god, goddess, Buddha or
bodhisattva is enshrined in order to receive blessings from that entity This has been the case throughout
Asia For the centrality of transactional exchange in Chinese Buddhism see Walsh 2007 On the importance
of merit in the lay-monastic relationship and in Thai society at large see Bunnag, Jane 1973 Buddhist
Monk, Buddhist Layman A Study of Urban Monastic Organization in Central Thailand London
Cambridge University Press On the centrality of elite patronage of monasteries in China as well as other
factors conditioning such patronage other than merit see Brook, Timothy 1993 Praying for Power
Buddhism and the Formation of Gentry Society in Late-Ming China Cambridge, MA Harvard University
Press
18
   See also Zhe Ji 2004
19
   Gareth Fisher has written about the widespread belief among layperson in contemporary China that one
gams extraordinary merit and blessings in exchange for funding temple construction or rebuilding He also
points out the "cash-merit relationship" that often characterizes the practice of making offerings to temples
or monks m exchange for merit (Fisher 2008 148-152 etc ) In funding temple construction and festivals
wealth, quite simply, becomes a virtue (See Feuchtwang 2001 152) For the medieval basis of such beliefs
in Chinese Buddhism see Walsh 2007
Brian J Nichols           CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                              412
attracted to the spiritual power of Kaiyuan and its Buddhas and Bodhisattvas which is
likewise accessed through the making of offerings. In both cases, money is offered in
Classically, in making a gift to the Sangha there is worldly giving in which one is aware
of giver, gift and receiver and supramundane giving in which one should have no thought
always informed about the benefits one could expect from making offerings. These
benefits were expressed simply as merit (gongde) or blessings and protection (baoyou),
or, more commonly, as peace in the family, financial success and other worldly benefits.
When these "goods" are expected in exchange for cash there is commodification.
Temples and monasteries in China rhetorically combat this potential for commodification
the commodification of merit and blessings when they post signboards linking donations
to such benefits. As mentioned earlier, Kaiyuan does this on special occasions; grand
ceremonies will be held and sponsorship is solicited by emphasizing the benefits and
merit one can expect by donating. In these and other instances, Kaiyuan may be
In his study of the Black Dragon King Temple in Shaanbei, Chau draws attention
        The service provider perspective points to the undeniable fact that religion
        is business in addition to involving beliefs and sacred symbols. It also
        brings attention to analyzing the social organization of popular religious
        enterprises. Of course, temples are not merely business; yet they can
        hardly survive without a 'business model' (i.e., ways of generating
20
   Walsh 2010: 109-119.
2
 ' Teaching on dana (giving) basic to Mahayana thought. See The Large Sutra on Perfect Wisdom I 10.8a-
b. trans. Conze 1975:198-199.
Brian J. Nichols        CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                          413
         income). Recognizing the economic aspects of popular religion should not
         be seen as economic reductionism or as cheapening the religious
         experience of my informants; rather, not recognizing them and limiting
         our understanding of religious activities as purely 'religious' or 'spiritual'
         would risk another kind of reductionism.22
Like the Black Dragon King Temple, Kaiyuan's main source of income comes
from donations of worshipers at collection boxes. And like Kaiyuan, the success of the
Dragon King Temple rests on its reputation for spiritual efficacy.24 Kaiyuan offers access
responsive to human requests. One makes contact with these powers through incense,
offerings and prostration. One can witness these activities at their most dramatic and
frenetic on a monthly lunar twenty-sixth free noodles and nianfo day. As related in
chapter five, on this day, the public streams into the complex by the thousands bearing
offerings of fruit, flowers, incense and cash. The amount of money collected on this day
RMB or about 850,000 USD per year), about the same amount that is said to be generated
by fifty percent of ticket sales. Tickets are sold on everyday of the year except lunar
twenty-sixth and other special days; half of all of that money is approximately equal to
the amount collected on just twelve days of free noodles and nianfo. An informant has
said that about half of the monastery's expenses are met with the money generated each
month on lunar twenty-sixth and about twenty percent of the monastery's overall income.
It is no secret that this special day is a means of generating income for the monastery;
11
   Chau 2006: 9.
23
   Chau2006: 115.
24
   Chau 2006.
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   414
that is how the monks perceive it and that is why it has been instituted at temples
throughout Quanzhou.
auspicious day for visiting the monastery and blessings are said to accrue to those who
consume the noodles and make offerings. One month I felt obligated to at least try the
treasured fare, which the laity line up for by the hundreds. As I was standing in line for a
bowl of noodles, I began chatting with a woman about this custom and its meaning. She,
like others I had asked, confirmed that eating the noodles would bring blessings (a
peaceful home, a prosperous job etc.). In order to ensure receipt of the blessing, however,
I was informed that I would need to make a donation. I subsequently confirmed this
notion with other people who had come for noodles. I had not made a donation, and after
learning this I began to worry that my bowl of noodles, prepared and served in conditions
of questionable hygiene, was not only bland and overcooked, but perhaps free of the
blessings for which it is famed. One may be forgiven for thinking that blessed noodles
confer their blessings on respectful consumers equally, but this is not what I was told by
those who had come to eat them. Apparently there is free lunch, but no free blessings.
The same logic generally holds for other types of blessings that one may receive
at temples. This general logic is typically extended to include the notion that one's
donation should correspond in some proportion to the blessing or protection one seeks to
procure—in other words, there is a correlation between cash and merit. This tradition and
the mentality which easily adapts to it combined with a temple's financial exigencies has
Brian J. Nichols      CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastety and Tourist Site                  415
throughout China; one commonly finds price lists for various levels of ritual service.                    At
Kaiyuan there is no price list in general, but on special occasions signboards are posted
which detail different levels of patronage one might offer with the implication or
articulation that higher levels of participation generate greater benefit. During Chinese
New Year, for example, a signboard is posted inviting patrons to participate at different
levels of support. One may sponsor the event and gain tremendous amounts of merit by
donating ten thousand, five thousand or two thousand RMB. Other levels of participation
are available for one hundred or five hundred RMB; it is understood that the more one
and the amount of donations received on nianfo days or for commissioned rituals. I have
asked Kaiyuan's monks about this relationship and they have all confirmed that people
are drawn to Kaiyuan to sponsor rituals because of Kaiyuan's reputation for spiritual
efficacy. One of the more remarkable sponsors of ritual services whom I met during my
time at the monastery was a group of three Chinese who had illegally immigrated to
Western countries and, fearing reprisals or deportation, had returned to China seeking the
supernatural aid. This broker, I was informed, considered Kaiyuan a place of spiritual
25
   Stephen Covell explores the commodification of ritual practices associated with funeral services and
granting posthumous precept names to the dead and perceptions of it in contemporary Japanese Temple
Buddhism (Covell 2005 165-190)
26
   It was an odd coincidence that soon after I had returned to Houston a Taiwanese monk informed me of
the efficacy of chanting namu Guanyin pusa ("homage to Guanyin Bodhisattva") and gave, as an example,
the case of an Hispanic illegal alien who had been pulled over in a traffic stop and began to chant to
himself, when the officer asked him for his ID, the officer suddenly received a call on his radio and let the
man go The man and the monk both attributed his "good fortune" to the compassionate intercession of
Guanyin.
he brings to Kaiyuan five or six times a year. For these men and other paying customers,
Kaiyuan performs ceremonies to eliminate disasters and solve difficulties {xiaozai jienari).
These ceremonies involve the recitation of the One Thousand Hands and Eyes Guanyin
Bodhisattva Sutra (qianshou jing ^p^-IS) and the Great Compassion Mantra by a small
number of monks in order to call upon the aid of Guanyin to remove misfortune and
difficulties. For these customers the service could be held in the main hall, for others it is
held in the Anyang Yuan. In the performance of such ritual services Kaiyuan takes on
developed what are called "tertiary industrial activities" as part of their development and
shops, guest houses, food stalls, tea houses and special exhibit halls (e.g. for relics).27
Many of these economic activities exist, for example, at Xiamen's Nanputuo Monastery.
It is famous for its vegetarian restaurant and next to the pond for releasing life in front of
the monastery are food stalls, tea shops, souvenir shops and photo booths all catering to
Nanputuo's many visitors both local and non-local (tourists, Buddhists and worshipers).
The shops are tended by laypersons, in association with the monastery.              At some sites,
                                9Q
shops may be run by monks. Jing Yin suggests that these kinds of economic activities
11
   See Jing Yin 2006:89.
28
   Ashiwa and Wank say these industries brought in 240,000 RMB in 1988 (Ashiwa and Wank 2006: 343).
29
   Several temples in the Sipsongpanna area have souvenir shops staffed by monks (Borchert 2005: 105).
Brian J. Nichols        CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                          417
        From a Buddhist perspective, one can say that the one-sided economic
        development in many monasteries has made them lose their distinctively
        Buddhist characteristics I have accompanied many overseas Buddhist
        delegates on visits to monasteries in China In my experience, visitors
        often feel that despite the proliferation of monasteries, there is a lack of
        character here Monasteries commonly operate vegetarian restaurants,
        guest houses, souvenir shops, and food and drink booths Some even go to
        the extreme of running factories and operating companies The long-term
        effect is that the market economy is seriously hurting the religious nature
        of the monasteries 30
economic development with the result that they lose their Buddhist characteristics
(meditation, study and teaching) Kaiyuan may be said to have avoided the more crass
versions of commercialization that Jmg Yin has in mmd Kaiyuan, apart from a small
Buddhist goods shop operated by a lay Buddhist, has no tertiary industries such as these
Kaiyuan raises funds from a) its reputation as a place of spiritual power and field of merit
and b) its provision of religious services Even though these activities may be
commodified, Walsh argues that this commodification had already occurred in medieval
times 31 While I believe Walsh is right, I am not prepared to say that the commodification
of merit was absolute I maintain, in other words, that there were and are, potentially and
actually, donors and recipients capable of giving without attachment to gift, giver or
recipient and monks capable of receiving without selfish and instrumental intentions For
existed in the past Recall the definition of commodification the attribution of economic
value to something which previously did not have it And if a non-commodified merit
Brian J Nichols        CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tom ist Site                  418
           Irrespective of the degree of commodification that exists, these exchanges are still
part of a religious tradition which Walsh describes as a sacred economy.32 In other words,
provisioning religious services and ling, even if commodified, are part of Chinese
Buddhist tradition. By avoiding the more questionable tertiary industries, Kaiyuan avoids
Kaiyuan has one religious enterprise which is more clearly commodified than
others—the Anyang Yuan memorial hall and mausoleum or Buddha Compassion Final
related post-mortem services. Located in the northwest corner of Kaiyuan, there is a large
hall for holding the spirit tablets of deceased patrons and recent masters such as former
abbot Miaolian as well as long-life tablets of patrons that will be converted into spirit
tablets upon word of their decease. In the middle of this hall is a golden Sakyamuni
Buddha in the Thai style. Inside this hall is where the paper houses and other paper
offerings that are burned in post-mortem ceremonies are constructed. This is one of the
more interesting halls to visit when it is busy with people constructing colorful and
elaborate paper mansions equipped with furnishings, servants, strings of working lights,
cars and airplanes that have been wired to electricity and fly around in circles when
turned on. These paper offerings will be ritually incinerated in a dedicated furnace as
entering the mausoleum one enters a hall with an enshrined Dizang bodhisattva,
32
     Walsh 2010.
Brian J. Nichols         CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monaster)- and Tourist Site                 419
popularly conceived as a savior figure who assists the dead. Passing through this hall
one enters a large room with row upon row of shelves for storing ashes. Many shelves are
specifically labeled for overseas Chinese and this is one of the important objectives of
this institution, to provide a place for the repatriation of the cremated remains of overseas
Chinese. These halls cater to the religious beliefs and customs of the community; they
Brochures are available that detail prices for a place for one's ashes in the
mausoleum. In 2009 prices began at 5,800 RMB (850USD) and went up to 12,800 RMB
(1,850USD) depending on the location in the hall (lower rungs are generally cheaper). In
addition to the cost of storing ashes there is the cost of the spirit tablet (paiwei) at 6,000
RMB. I was told that post-mortem rituals can range in cost from about 3,000 RMB for
the most simple (offerings and sutra recitation) to 30,000 RMB for the most complex
Sources indicate that the Anyang Yuan and associated post-mortem rituals
million RMB per year (around 600,000 USD). Of that amount, about one million RMB is
from the post-mortem (chaudu) rituals performed. In 2006, the full price for a post-
mortem ceremony, including paper house, effects, spirit money, the ceremony, food and
flower offerings, was said to be about 14,000RMB (2,000USD). After paying fees to the
33
   See Zhiru 2007 for an account of the history of Dizang in China.
34
   The Anyang Cloister has taken over the functions of the Republican Period's Hall of Merit, which
previously held the spirit tablets of patrons. The Hall of Merit now houses the offices of the Anyang
Cloister There are three rooms, one of which is the office proper equipped with three desks, phones and
samples of spirit tablets Another room of equal size serves as a guest reception area featuring the
ubiquitous piece of guest reception furniture in southern Fujian, a tea table The largest room that once
held spirit tablets now serves as a conference room with a large table. This room has never been used as a
meeting room in the four years I have been conducting research When the sutra library and dharma hall
was being rebuilt in 2007-2008, the contents of the sutra library were stored in this room
35
   Individuals were said to sponsor about six release of burning mouths ceremonies per year
Brian J Nichols          CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                              420
monks, the makers of offerings and other expenses, the monastery brought in about
10,000 RMB (about 1,500 USD). If the ceremony is held about 100 times per year, as
(150,000USD) per year. The paper homes range in price from 3,800 RMB (550USD) for
the fanciest decked out with lights, moving airplane, boat and car to a modest 3 80RMB
(55USD) for the most simple frame cottage [Figures 88-89]. I was told that there were
about thirty monks who know how to perform post-mortem rituals. Multiple sources
suggested that most of these monks were poorer monks from villages who have learned
how to perform these ceremonies in order to make money. The leader of the service
receives 200 RMB while his assistants, which are typically nine in number, receive 100
RMB (15USD) apiece. Menial helpers responsible for clean up receive 50 RMB apiece.
The post-mortem ceremony should be carried out within forty-nine days of decease.
Forty-nine days is said to be the time between one life and the next, so within that period
The post-mortem rituals are indeed commodified as they are in cultures around
the world. Post-mortem rituals have come to be so prominent in Japanese Buddhism that
significant dimension to life as a monk for these thirty or so monks. The Sangha as a
whole benefits from income derived from these rituals, but it should be noted that they
bring in less income than donations to merit boxes and half of gate receipts. Buddhism at
The phrase was used by Tamamuro Taijo in 1963, see Covell 2005 16
Brian J Nichols        CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   421
          Cultures around the world have developed rituals to deal with the existential fact
of death. Given the practically universal demand for such ritual service, Kaiyuan is
compassion on the part of the monks. It may be that they would rather tend to their own
cultivation, but the public demands ritual assistance in dealing with the decease of loved
ones and they respond to this need. It may also be said that they help to fashion and
promote this need and benefit from it economically. When it comes to the
also valid to call it exploitation, the monks could respond that if they didn't do it
somebody else would. This brings us to the notion of competition which many scholars
Chau writes: "Different temples quite consciously compete with one another in
promoting their own deity's magical power, and in the process different ways of
provisioning ling are invented, modified, or expanded." Temples, Chau argues, develop
Chau points out that the Black Dragon King Temple has increased the convenience of
available), having divination slips which one can take home (previously they were in a
book, not to be removed), providing bottles for divine water, pre-packaging medicine
(before it was not) and adding a shrine to the dragon mother to attract people with
temple. Chau writes that his field site may be considered "a petty capitalist enterprise"
37
     Chau 2006: 120
38
     Chau 2006: 120-121.
Brian J. Nichols           CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                  422
concerned with provisioning magical efficacy "increasingly in a manner resembling
Graeme Lang, Selina Chan and Lars Ragvald have studied a group of popular
according to business models (2005). One of the more successful temples had been
improved with "unusual animal-shaped stones from Guangxi, gardens and trees, and most
recently, a stage on a plaza immediately behind the temple for cultural performances" as
well as craft shops and children's activities.40 These temples also hired Daoist priests and
                                  :
priestesses to work for them.
While Kaiyuan does promote itself as a tourist site as well as a site which is
diversification seen at the Black Dragon King or the Daoist temples mentioned above.
Daoyuan has overseen landscaping efforts and the building of the Hall of Buddha's Life,
but, apart from the An Yang Yuan, he has not added any services or shrines in order to
attract more business. In other words, just as there are degrees of museumification, there
are degrees of commercialization. Kaiyuan's lack of tertiary industries and extra services
Buddha and Jing'an temples that have conspicuously converted shrine halls into souvenir
shops and we examined how Quanzhou Kaiyuan succeeded in eliminating the souvenir
39
   Chau 2006- 122 Robert Hymes 2002 looks at Daoists and others as competing in a religious market,
rituals being the commodities they provide; they struggle for market share and Marc Moskowitz 2001 looks
a religious consumerism relating to dealing with fetus ghosts m contemporary Taiwan
40
   Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005. 163-165
41
   Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005. 164 ff
Brian J Nichols          CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                           423
shop that had come to occupy the Donor's Ancestral Shrine. While some temples find
that souvenir shops generate needed income, such has not been the case at Kaiyuan. It is
perhaps true that most temples operate a shop selling religious items and Kaiyuan is no
exception. Unlike many other temples, however, Kaiyuan's religious goods shop is
hidden behind a row of hedges to the west of the central axis and most visitors never even
notice it, much less enter it. At other temples in China, one is corralled into tourist shops
either at the entrance or exit. In such cases, one's experience of the site is necessarily
colored by entering or exiting the temple in the presence of hawkers selling trinkets. If
these hawkers are aggressive or their wares noisy or gaudy, their presence sets the would-
does not have such an arrangement; the closest it came to having a shop catering to
tourists was the shop established in the Donor's Ancestral Shrine, a shop, if not for the
efforts of the current abbot, might still be in operation. It is to the abbot's leadership that
I attribute Kaiyuan's relative lack of vending activity that one often finds at temples of
comparable fame.
The abbot has been careful in restricting commercial activity to the presence of
the nondescript Buddhist goods shop and two small kiosks neither of which is especially
obtrusive. Anyone who has visited certain large monasteries around Beijing, for example,
will know that vendors at other famous monasteries in China are not nearly so restricted.
Recently, however, one of the two kiosk merchants has begun selling incense to those
unaware that it is freely available at the entrance of the main hall. This man has no
affiliation with the Sangha, but is rather a member of the administrative commission and
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                     424
somewhat out of the abbot's jurisdiction. This kiosk is owned and operated by Mr. Cai, a
photographer by trade and an enthusiast for all things related to Quanzhou and Kaiyuan's
history. He is a regular contributor on such matters in the local newspaper. He is thus not
a professional hawker and he does not disturb Kaiyuan's visitors, be they tourists or
devotees. Kaiyuan is thus dramatically free from the kind of commercial vendors that
can erode the pious atmosphere of a temple and this is an important way in which a
It has been seen how the presence of the temple commission in managing the
south and west gates serves to reframe visitor experiences to anticipate a tourist site as
they pass through the turnstile, ticket in hand. In addition to the signs and grammar of the
The structures which most contribute to Kaiyuan's tourist identity are those which
serve as tourist attractions, but are not associated with formal religious activities. Most
prominently in this category are the Kylin wall and the Song dynasty boat. These
structures contribute nothing to Kaiyuan's religious atmosphere, but they do add to its
value as a tourist attraction. Their impact is mitigated, however since they are located on
the western and northeastern edges of the complex respectively and therefore well
removed from the central axis and the location of formal religious activities.
42
  The commercializationof ritual and the cash-merit relationship discussed in chapter six is a different
phenomenon than the hawking of tourist goods and services, the former, while potentially distracting to
some religious pursuits, is part of the larger religious culture and therefore not of the same character as the
selling of toys, panda dolls and t-shirts
Brian J Nichols            CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                                 425
         Next to and associated with the boat museum, on the extreme northeastern edge of
the monastic complex, are two shops that strictly sell souvenir items. Monks have
nothing to do with these shops and most visitors don't even see them, but they are there,
associated with the boat museum which is operated by the museum of maritime trade and
Lastly, the east and west pagodas, while an important part of Kaiyuan's identity
and an important attraction for visitors, are not incorporated into any formal religious
activity. Though they are Buddhist structures and belong to the monastery, the pagodas
today garner more interest from tourists than from the clergy or devotees. Their presence
contributes to the venerability of the monastery and, in the eyes of many, its spiritual
power, but the attention they receive by tour groups and their location on the
southwestern and southeastern edges of the complex place them more squarely into
service of tourism than of the religious practice. If they did not exist Kaiyuan would
In addition to cultural properties, there is also a small room which houses a tour
guide office run by the temple administrative commission. Most visitors would never
know that this office exists, but it does and those who work there provide tours for groups
who contact them for such services. The basic tour they offer lasts forty minutes; it
covers the main hall, ordination platform, mulberry tree and the pagodas. If they are short
Contributing most to the tourist atmosphere are the tour groups who arrive in
matching caps or t-shirts led by megaphone and flag bearing guides. Such groups are
Brian J. Nichols       CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   426
inevitable at tourist sites throughout China and beyond and they remind any would-be
worshiper that they are also at a tourist site. More importantly, they disturb what would
otherwise be a more tranquil atmosphere through the noise of their sheer numbers, their
behavior such as shouting, laughing and whistling. Whereas the presence of monks, lay
persons and worshipers mark Kaiyuan as a site of religious practice, tour groups brand it
a tourist attraction.
Park-like Atmosphere
Buddhist temples have traditionally served park-like functions in China and this
remains so at temples like Kaiyuan which possess open areas where groups may gather,
landscaping where individuals and couples may stroll and tables and benches where
people may sit. This is especially true in the early morning, but also throughout the day,
as older people gather at benches under the trees to sit and play chess or chat. In the main
courtyard and throughout the landscaped areas of the monastery one can find groups of
morning exercisers engaged in the kinds of exercise one finds at parks across China,
including tai ji, sword "dancing," other folk dancing and aerobic-type exercises [Figures
69-70]. These individuals are known to the gate keepers and they are allowed to enter
without purchasing tickets. While the groups of exercisers may not be engaged in
devotional activities, they are participating in what is a traditional role played by temples
and monasteries.
I find that these visitors, who leave before 9 AM, neither disturb the monks, nor
other worshippers, but their portable stereos and waving of fans or swords detract from
Brian J. Nichols        CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   All
what might otherwise be an environment suitable to contemplative practice. Nevertheless,
having the landscaping and spaces that attract these visitors also provides areas conducive
to contemplation or meditation when they are not there. Because the park-like
consider it a neutral factor with respect to the question of tourism and religiosity.
Guangjing cover two of its walls. He is shown visiting many places, especially Buddhist
sites and temples throughout China. There is even a picture of him reclining on Master
Hongyi's bed at Kaiyuan. The photos, most of which looked no different than snapshots
of a tourist at famous places, were now part of a shrine in his memory and a testament to
his standing as a Buddhist master who had helped to rebuild so many temples in Southern
Fujian. Seeing these photos of him smiling and posing at famous Buddhist sites all over
China, looking no different than a tourist, is an example of the thin lines between
pilgrimage, religious tourism and secular tourism. Quanzhou Kaiyuan straddles these
lines and hosts visitors seeking merit and blessings, visitors interested in religious history
and material culture and tourists who have signed up for a bus tour with the intention of
On the one hand, Kaiyuan is a functioning Buddhist monastery housing more than
eighty full time monks and hosting hundreds of laypersons every day. On the other, it is
a tourist attraction that appears at the top of every tourist's itinerary in Quanzhou and
hosts dozens of groups that tour the grounds on a daily basis. As a site of valuable
historic and cultural properties, Kaiyuan has had little choice but to accommodate
Brian J. Nichols      CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                      428
tourists, but there are many directions such accommodations may have taken. One model
gives freer reign to non-monastic entities to sell souvenirs, post sign-boards and maps and
otherwise regulate the experience of visitors. The model negotiated by Kaiyuan's monks
under the leadership of Daoyuan (the revivalists) has been to limit the role of the non-
monastics associated with the temple administrative commission and cultural bureaus
(the curators)—it has been to fight for greater autonomy. Daoyuan has succeeded in
restricting the curatorial forces who cater to tourists to a handful of small spaces on the
tourists and supporting a regular ritual calendar including twice-weekly and monthly
phenomenon. Modernity alienates individuals from authentic life and they seek, as
topic, I have not been interested in examining tourism at Kaiyuan from the point of view
of what role it plays in the lives of tourists. Nor have I examined the way in which
Kaiyuan as a site of culture and history may be considered sacred in those particular
capacities.44 I have examined the phenomenon of tourism at Kaiyuan from the point of
view of how it may or may not distort or disturb religious life at the monastery. I have
portrayed Kaiyuan as taking an active role in fashioning its identity in a way that
promotes tourism, but not in the same manner as one finds at temples managed by secular
43
  MacCannell 1976.
44
  Scholars have become aware of museums, for example, as sacred sites, or repositories of sacred items.
See Sullivan and Edwards 2004; Robson 2010c.
Brian J. Nichols         CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                            429
degrees of religiosity by maintaining physical boundaries and limiting or eliminating the
identity by housing and feeding monks, holding daily services, conducting twice-weekly
performers in the rehgious drama that is being marketed 45 In some cases, monks take on
monks are occasionally the object of the tourist gaze and they may be photographed, but
they are not radically objectified like animals in a zoo or ethnic minorities in a cultural
show. In particular, the morning and evening services are held before tourists arrive and
after most of them leave. The ceremonies are conducted in a non-descnpt hall with no
valuable cultural properties near the back of the central axis. In other words, they are not
intended as a spectacle for tourist consumption. Furthermore, a monk patrols and shoos
away individuals who approach the main hall while the twice-weekly nianfo service is
occurring. Photos are prohibited The devotees and the ceremony are not a spectacle for
The monks and their religious life, in other words, have not been commodified
Kaiyuan as a site of historic buildings and cultural treasures has been commodified—one
gains access to it by purchasing a ticket. This form of commodification has neither been
initiated, nor managed by monks; it has been the work of the temple administrative
involved in the commodification of religious goods (merits and blessings) and services
45
     Lang, Chan and Ragvald 2005, Kang 2009
46
     Borchert 2005 87-88
Brian J Nichols           CHAPTER NINE Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                 430
(post-mortem rituals etc.); this is unrelated to tourism proper and is Chinese Buddhism's
answer to the loss of landed wealth. I have pointed out that although tourism and
cultivation, there remains a core of monks who attend daily services who are not
burdened with those duties. These monks are provided the opportunity to pursue religious
cultivation somewhat like the elite monks in traditional training monasteries. What is
missing is an educational system or meditation training system, but the option to develop
Brian J. Nichols     CHAPTER NINE: Buddhist Monastery and Tourist Site                   431
CHAPTER TEN
a kind of Utopia.1 In his conclusion he wonders how he and other scholars could make
Buddhism is discussed in almost any Western book about China, we find vivid
descriptions of the commercialism, illiteracy, and vice, but seldom a word about the piety,
scholarship, or discipline." The monastery of the present study exhibits a mix of virtue
and vice and a combination of secular and sacred characteristics. These dimensions can
Institutional Life
It has been known at least since Gernet's 1956 study of the economic dimensions
of Chinese Buddhism that monasteries are more than sites of contemplative practice. As
Robson notes, "Monasteries were, in other words, precisely where the linkage between
the religious and the commercial was concretely realized."3 As institutions desiring self-
political capital. In the past, monasteries sought patronage from elites who donated land
and supported the maintenance and restoration of buildings. In the present monasteries do
1
  Welch 1967:3.
2
  Welch 1967:408.
3
  Robson2010b:44
what they can to attract the broadest spectrum of patrons. This dissertation has revealed
A traditional source of such patronage for Kaiyuan has been the cultivation of ties
with the Huang ancestral clan. Members of the "Purple Cloud" Huang family have
supported the restoration of the temple during the Ming, Qing and Republican periods. In
the fall of 2009, the Huang family (from Shanghai to the Philippines) gathered by the
thousands at the official re-opening of the Donor's Ancestral Shrine {Tanyue ci) which
enshrines images and spirit tables for Huang Shougong, evincing a vibrant tradition of
clan-based patronage. How common and how important has such clan-based patronage
been in Southern Fujian? In other parts of China? These are questions for further research.
overall economic health of the community. Quanzhou Kaiyuan's fortunes rose with those
of the city of Quanzhou from the tenth century through the thirteenth. When prosperity
left Quanzhou at the end of the Yuan dynasty, so did it leave Kaiyuan monastery. While
Kaiyuan continued to attract patronage during the Ming and Qing dynasties, it never
returned to the size, scope and vitality that it had enjoyed before the Ming. While other
factors are surely relevant, there remains a connection between the prosperity of the city
and the prosperity of the monastery that is evinced by their mutually imbricated histories.
A link between the economic health of the community and the economic health of the
monastery has also been demonstrated over the current period of restoration. During the
earliest phase of revival, Kaiyuan relied on funding from overseas Chinese in Southeast
4
  Such ties have been common in China. The apocryphal Xiangfajueyijing H£fe$tlii&M {Sutra of
Resolving Doubts During the Age of the Semblance Dharma), for example, warns of the slight merit
accruing to individuals who only contribute to building Buddhist edifices connected to one's family or
serving as one's family sanctuary, which was a common practice in medieval China (Xiangfajueyijing
1336a) SeeGernet 1956 283
zones, the donations from locals to Kaiyuan steadily increased in tandem with Quanzhou
An obvious point, but one worth considering, is that money is required to support
a large monastery such as Kaiyuan, which maintains almost one hundred monks and
more than two dozen buildings on nineteen acres Such a monastery must generate
is important, but even more so is the ability of the institution to attract donors This
dissertation has demonstrated how Kaiyuan has done so by promoting its reputation as a
place that is both spiritually efficacious (auspicious events) and culturally valuable
(material culture) This has enabled Kaiyuan to generate support from both secularly-
motivated tourists and officials one the one hand and religiously-motivated worshipers
and laity on the other The former perceive Kaiyuan's monastic sigmfiers (devotional
practice, material culture and auspicious events) as signs of a tourist attraction (traditional
culture, cultural heritage and curiosity), the latter as religious signs (religious cultivation,
site of worship, site of efficacy) Kaiyuan's leadership understands this process and takes
advantage of it Rather than seeing this as cynicism, it is in line with serving the
institutional goals of the monastery which have in sight the greater goal of perpetuating
Buddhism
well as today is that of political elites Several imperial courts had relations with
Quanzhou Kaiyuan, conferring it names, bestowing its monks with honors such as the
purple robe and sending it gifts Similarly, local prefects were responsible for supporting
there remains a political hierarchy and visits by high ranking officials (e.g. Jiang Zemin
and Zhao Puchu) have been an important part of Kaiyuan's restoration; they serve as
political capital that legitimizes the current revival. The relationship between political
elites and Buddhist monasteries past and present is an area for further research.
More research on such mundane concerns will help bring our perceptions of
monasteries in line with reality so that we are less likely to think in terms of "real" and
monasteries and money. The reality is that monasteries have always needed to generate
funds; fundraising methods have been forced to adapt to the loss of land-holdings and
monasteries are today experimenting with various means. Rather than automatically
make an effort to understand the culture of temples on a case by case basis. This study,
for example, has indicated an important distinction between sites that are managed by the
sangha for the sangha and sites that are managed by state agencies and commissions. I
current revival must distinguishing between museumified sites run by secular authorities,
commercialized sites run by the sangha, sites dedicated to practice with few tourists and
sites, like Kaiyuan, that strike a balance in accommodating the secular demands of
tourism with the religious goals of the monastery. Kaiyuan does this in part by limiting
A simple but important point that has been revealed in this dissertation is the
emerge in research and other scholars will want to pay more attention to the presence or
absence of this commission or bureau when they study religious sites in China. The
involvement of other bureaus dealing with tourism and cultural heritage are also relevant
in understanding how temples and monasteries are being managed and, importantly, by
whom.
Religious Life
Welch presented a composite view of what he considered the large public model
monasteries. The second chapter of his book is on the meditation hall and the practice of
meditation. There are a handful of monasteries in China today that have meditation halls
and actively train monks in contemplative practice, but they, as they have been for
centuries, if not always, are in a small minority.5 At the large public monastery of this
study, there is no meditation hall and no training in meditation offered, nor are there any
dharma talks or formal study of sutras. As for the presence of discipline and piety, yes,
these exist. They are exhibited in regular morning and evening services, regular periods
of nianfo, daily vegetarian communal meals held in silence and in other small ways.
It looks like a monastery and a large sign in the front gate reads, "Great Kaiyuan
Everlasting Chan Monastery," but a name and a look does not make a place sacred. What
5
    Welch notes only a few had meditation halls in first half of the twentieth century (Welch 1967 398)
Many months of on-the-site fieldwork distributed over five years have impressed upon
me five qualities that contribute to the sacred character of Kaiyuan monastery and set it
apart from temples that have undergone higher degrees of museumification and
establishing lines of demarcation between mundane and religious domains. These lines of
demarcation are drawn along three different axes: foundational, physical and functional.
Deployed along these three axes, I have observed five factors operating at Kaiyuan today
that serve to demarcate Kaiyuan from the mundane world and promote a religious
structures (monastic buildings which serve as the site of regular ritual practice and
performance) 4. the pious atmosphere evoked by the presence of religious specialists and
devotees (monks and laypersons) engaged in and inviting devotional and ritual activity on
The first factor, memorials to auspicious events, falls along the founding axis and
has been examined in chapter seven. Second, and in some sense most basic, is having a
space that is well defined, through walls and other barriers, from the mundane world
beyond (chapter nine). Third is having a well maintained complex of buildings serving
recognizably religious functions (chapter six). The second and third factors fall along the
physical axis while the fourth and fifth are functional characteristics. The fourth factor, a
community of monks who maintain a regular ritual schedule and a body of devoted
laypersons is far from common at temples in China (chapter five). Kaiyuan enjoys the
weekly and monthly nianfo services and regular post-mortem rituals). This community,
is missing from many other temples (large and small). The fifth factor, prohibiting
commodification that one finds at many other large temples. As research on the revival of
factors, such as those described in this dissertation, which contribute to the revival of
religious practice. These factors are typically not open to quantitative analysis (unlike
numbers of ticket-bearing tourists) and generally require a level of access to the religious
example, could benefit from an analysis of the different streams of supporters (religious
and secular) to see how temples accommodate each. Covell describes the debate that
raged throughout the 1980s between the city of Kyoto, the public and the priests
concerning the proposal to levy a tax on top of temple admission fees. The city claimed
that most people visited the temples to view cultural artifacts, not for religious reasons
and that such a tax was not much different than those levied on museums.6 The priests
claimed that although people visited temples for sightseeing, they also went to obtain
peace of mind {anshiri) which they considered a religious motivation.7 Surveys revealed
6
    Covell 2005: 157.
7
    Covell 2005:156-158.
money-making ventures.8 According to Covell's account, the city, newspapers and priests
in Kyoto stated their claims regarding the touristic or religious nature of temples based on
personal impressions and motivated by personal interests. Covell, himself, only deals
with these perceptions and speaks of an "imbalance" between the "religious, economic
and cultural aspects" that inevitably form parts of what a temple is.9 In other words, he
does not engage in the kind of on-site interviewing, data collection and analysis that I
have used to demonstrate that Kaiyuan's economic, religious and cultural dimensions are
informed by both religious and secular values. Such an analysis would help determine the
phenomenological contours of the reality being debated, rather than repeating opinions,
This dissertation provides a model for examining the functioning of temples that
serve as tourist sites without solely relying on the polarized views one often encounters
which reduce the site in question to a tourist temple or a place of religion. Large
monasteries in China typically serve as tourist attractions, but many of them also serve as
sites of religious cultivation for monastics, laity and worshipers. I have argued that
Kaiyuan presents a balance of both by carving out time and space for touring (the
pagodas, courtyard, main hall, ordination hall, daytime) and time and space for religious
cultivation (dharma hall, dining hall, monk dormitories, evening). Buddhist monasteries
have long attracted pilgrims and worshippers as well as visitors in search of culture,
history and beauty. By providing a detailed account of how one monastery has
accommodated these dual identities, religious and touristic, this study contributes to our
8
    Covell 2005: 159.
9
    Covell 2005: 163.
misunderstood.
dichotomous thinking—a habit that has been bequeathed to religious studies in the form
of the dyad sacred and profane. As pointed out in chapter seven, the Chinese do not
traditionally recognize a dichotomy between sacred and profane, just as they do not posit
a dichotomy between human and divine or matter and spirit.10 Welch observed this lack
         The basic religious question in China, I think, was not how man saw
         himself in relation to God, but how he saw himself in relation to all the
         events that overtook him. He was part of a continuum of the human, the
         natural, and the supernatural. There was no dividing line between gods
         and men, monks and magicians, the sacred and secular. It would be true to
         say that the Chinese were a highly religious people as to say that they were
         secular, practical people. In their case it amounted to the same thing. n
I'm not sure that I agree with his statement word for word—I would alter the first line to
read "in relation to humans, deities and the broader world"—but I agree with the essential
assessment that recognizes a lack of dichotomy between sacred and secular, human and
divine. This profound lack of dichotomy influences Chinese religion and culture in
fundamental ways. n I believe that scholars of religion must pay greater attention to this
   Yet they traditionally have a vast pantheon of deities, fear the presence of countless ghosts and spirits
and believe m an afterlife This brief review of "beliefs" makes it clear that we cannot label the Chinese
materialist m any traditional sense of the term.
" Welch 1967 370
12
   Exploring this is a project unto itself I take the emphases on the doctrine of Buddha nature and non-
duality in Chinese Buddhism, for example, to reflect this commitment to non-dichotomous thinking
In the context of this dissertation, this lack of dichotomy suggests a way for us to
understand how devotional practice, material culture and auspicious events can not only
both religious and secular for the Chinese. This flexibility or ambiguity between what is
sacred and secular has been exploited by revivalists as well as officials to advance their
own interests (religious revival and economic development). Every time I've heard
officials speak about the rebuilding or restoration of religious edifices, I've heard them
praise the project for contributing to economic development. The same project is praised
some cases, it is politically expedient to deny the religious dimension of a project and
cast it as one of cultural revival. Although Kaiyuan is a legal site of religious activity and
presents itself as a site of historic and cultural value and in communiques with its
devotees it presents itself as land of the Buddha and field of merit. It is, of course, both.
has been a theme of this dissertation. We have seen how, for example, Kaiyuan's objects
treasures. Material culture, furthermore, enables the most common religious experiences
available at Kaiyuan. I have discussed the somatic and cognitive affect of the composite
' J It's not clear to me how to reframe sacred and profane and have them maintain their obvious heuristic
value in keeping the two realms distinct. It would seem that breaking down the dichotomous interpretation
opens up a means for these two realms (sacred and profane) to make contact and mix without there being
pollution or corruption or desecration
features (buildings, pagodas, Buddhas, courtyards, trees...) induce recognition that one is
on one's interpretive filter. This ability for monastic signifiers to be multivalent has
contributed to the success of Kaiyuan and other monasteries and temples in attracting
Another dichotomy challenged by sites such as Kaiyuan is that between elite and
"elite" religion. And, in fact, most, but not all, of Kaiyuan's monks have a basic
understanding of Buddhism as offering a refuge distinct from and more profound than
Kaiyuan. Welch describes them as having "used Buddhism in the same way a motorist
uses one of the several different brands of gasoline, without any special commitment."14
Having no special relationship with Buddhism, these worshipers will make offerings to
Mazu and Guangong with similar, if not greater, zeal. Their visible presence and
contributions to the religious (and economic) life of Kaiyuan marks a distinct intersection
between elite and folk traditions. An intersection shared by worshipers and laypersons
throughout the imperial period and remains a crucial factor in religious life up to the
present. While the suppression of the Cultural Revolution was severe and widespread, it
14
     Welch 1967:387.
of Chinese history.15 The same may be said for the continuing regulation and interference
in religious affairs that one finds in contemporary China. While critique of China along
between church and state is very different than the notion of separation that we value in
the United States.16 While recognition is different than acceptance, when one begins to
understand the Chinese position, one begins to not expect the Chinese state to behave in
the same way that we expect our state to behave. We may not condone their behavior, but
we can at least begin to make sense of it. This is an important step in understanding the
Chinese position on religion, which has been a source of a great deal of tension in bi-
The lack of separation between church and state is most evident in the presence of
compliance with policies. Rather than see this as an all-powerful monolithic state against
a group of monks, however, this dissertation has revealed how monks have fought for
greater autonomy from such agencies and have achieved partial victories, tacitly
separation between church and state is the Kaiyuan orphanage and school. PRC policy
dictated that the school be operated by non-monastics; with the loss of monastic control,
the abbot ultimately negotiated the removal of the school. This suggests one way that
15
   Biggest differences may be technological (mass production of red books, radio broadcast ) and perhaps
most radical was the turn against not only Confucius but Confucian values of family
16
   See Yu, Anthony C 2005 State and Religion in China Historical and Textual Perspectives Chicago
Open Court
17
   Kindopp and Hamrin 2004
Buddhist History
Buddhism in Fujian, especially during the Tang-Song interregnum under Wang family
from the ninth to the twelfth centuries as a kind of Buddhist university with more than
one hundred cloisters housing masters of vinaya, Chan, Pure Land, Tiantai, Yogacara,
Huayen and engineering. How common were such institutions in medieval China?
Kaiyuan was described by superlatives in documents of the time and Zhuxi described the
streets of Quanzhou as full of sages. This study directs attention to an important region in
the development of Chinese Buddhism, especially of the Chan school. While Quanzhou
Kaiyuan reflects the strength of Buddhism in Fujian during this period, further studies are
required to understand the full import of Fujian Buddhism in the medieval period. The
study of more monastery records, inscriptions and local sources would indicate the extent
        Recent years have seen the restoration of the ordination platform and the
        dharma hall. Fortunately, the main hall has also been renovated—It seems
        like a time of renewal. We should respond to this opportunity at our best
        even though we don't know whether this recovery will be only partial or
        more complete. If we are only concerned about old property not being
        returned rather than practicing virtue, then, even if all the buildings and
        property were recovered, what would be the point of living here! If we
        can diligently practice virtue, then even in shabby buildings and old rooms
        we can still sit cross-legged (i.e. practice/meditate). It goes without saying
        that one can live like a snail in its shell, in a grass hut which can just
        accommodate a length of seven feet (i.e. a human body). Moreover, all
        people have Buddha nature, everyone can shine. Who knows whether or
These words, written by Yuanxian at the end of the Ming Dynasty, during a
period of renewal, could, with a few changes, be applied to the Quanzhou Kaiyuan
monastery of today. Again, Quanzhou Kaiyuan, along with the mainland Chinese sangha
as a whole, is enjoying a period of restoration and renewal. Once again, it is not known
whether the recovery will be partial, piecemeal and compromised or if it will be complete,
comprehensive and stable. What is known, however, is that as long as the monks are
focused on generating income, recovering lost property, renovating and re-building, they
will neither have the time, nor, it is likely, the mood, to diligently practice. Diligent
practice requires only the crudest accommodations and such practice itself is traditionally
the root of patronage. Yuanxian invokes Kaiyuan's founding patron, elder Huang, as a
representative of all those who sponsor the recovery and maintenance of the sangha and
suggests that if the monks will do their best they may attract such patronage. Patronage,
in other words, material support, was an abiding concern during the Late Ming Dynasty
China today.19
are only concerned about old property not being returned rather than practicing virtue,
then, even if all the buildings and property were recovered, what would be the point of
living here! " The recovery of property, the rebuilding of halls and the material
maintenance of the Sangha have been the focus of Daoyuan and most others during the
18 Sizhil 19b-20a
19Jmg2006.
which the focus is on "hardware" (building and maintaining the physical plant) and they
look, with optimism and hope, to a future where they can emphasize and develop the
has benefited the development of tourism, but has it also benefitted the recovery of
religious practice? The previous chapter suggests that some of the improvements to the
opportunities exist for individuals motivated to find them. Unfortunately, most of the
young monks have too little understanding of the benefits and much less knowledge of
education in such matters is currently not available at Kaiyuan, nor most other
monasteries. In short, the cost of the attention paid to the material development and
welfare of the monastery is revealed in the lack of programs of enrichment for the monks,
When I consider the future of Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery, I believe that it will
destination for the foreseeable future. It will thus maintain a dual identity along the lines I
have described. The only chance for greater development of the monastic "software"
would seem to be in a change of leadership with a different vision of how to develop the
talent of the sangha. Examples like Bailin Monastery in Hebei, Pingxing Monastery in
Fujian and Gaomin Monastery in Jiangsu indicate that there does exist in post-Mao China,
thousands of stele commemorating the building of shrine halls bearing the dates of the
As China works to restore its temples and monasteries the case of Kaiyuan
monastery holds lessons that may be instructive. When a monastery is rebuilt or restored
buildings serving religious functions and a lack of intrusive vendors. I select these factors
for special mention because they are factors that I have noticed missing at other temples
religiosity. The extent to which a monastery has properties of historic or cultural value
the extent to which it risks becoming a secular attraction rather than a religious site.
During the day tour groups enjoy the shade of ancient trees, they have a close
look at majestic pagodas from the Song dynasty, they see dozens of gilded statues and
hear stories of Kaiyuan's purple cloud, lotus-blooming mulberry and 120 cloisters—in
short, they get their money's worth. This is a prominent dimension of Quanzhou Kaiyuan
and one that most visitors experience. This is the Kaiyuan of tourist brochures.
I have described other dimensions of Kaiyuan such as how tranquil the monastic
grounds are in the evening after the crowds have left; this is a time conducive to
contemplative practice. Kaiyuan also promotes devotional activities throughout the day
life of the clergy and laypersons influences the atmosphere of the monastery and enters
It may have been tourist brochures and the promise of cultural treasures that
brought a given visitor to Kaiyuan, but once inside the gate, bereft of tacky tourist stalls,
presented with monks quietly tending halls or leading lay persons in chanting, while
individuals offer incense and prostrations inside venerable halls under the shade of
ancient trees, they are overcome with some feeling beyond the instrumental wish to take
a picture of the pagodas and check Kaiyuan off their list of sites to see. This feeling
drives them to make an offering of incense, make a donation or say a prayer, and, in these
acts, they may have another feeling, one of the promise of a transcendent power capable
something larger. They may feel immediately (and temporarily) relieved of some burden
and leave more content than when they arrived. In short, they have been inspired. Maybe
they have bought into the notion that this location has a special spiritual power which in
turn may grant blessings, or maybe they have simply and temporarily left the mundane
details of life behind. By coming to Kaiyuan and witnessing its ties to an ancient tradition,
one is awakened to the possibility of ancient traditions remaining present and efficacious.
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Quanzhou, lying just opposite Taiwan, was perhaps the world's most
cosmopolitan city in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Here one could find established
Daoists living in peaceful coexistence and mutual prosperity. A vibrant entrepot on the
maritime silk route which stretched from China to the west coast of Africa, Marco Polo
suggested it may have been the largest port in the world. While foreigners had been in
developed during the Song, it was in the Yuan dynasty that foreign populations in
Quanzhou reached their peak and included some of the first Europeans to reach China.
Marco Polo (1254-1324) is the most well known European said to have lived in Yuan
China; he departed China from the port of Quanzhou in 1292 leaving this description:
        Now when you quit Fuju [Fuzhou] and cross the River, you travel for five
        days south-east through a fine country, meeting with a constant succession
        of flourishing cities, towns, and villages, rich in every product. You travel
        by mountains and valleys and plains, and in some places by great forests
        in which are many of the trees which give Camphor. There is plenty of
        game on the road, both of bird and beast. The people are all traders and
        craftsmen, subjects of the Great Kaan, and under the government of Fuju.
        When you have accomplished those five days' journey you arrive at the
        very great and noble city of ZAYTON [Quanzhou], which is also subject
        to Fuju.
        At this city you must know is the Haven of Zayton, frequented by all the
        ships of India, which bring thither spicery and all other kinds of costly
        wares. It is the port also that is frequented by all the merchants of Manzi
        [Southern China1], for hither is imported the most astonishing quantity of
' Manzi %ik-f, literally "Southern Barbarians," was used by the Mongolians in the Yuan dynasty to refer to
South China. Formerly under the Southern Song dynasty, it was the last part of China to submit to
         goods and of precious stones and pearls, and from this they are distributed
         all over Manzi. And I assure you that for one shipload of pepper that goes
         to Alexandria or elsewhere, destined for Christendom, there come a
         hundred such, aye and more too, to this haven of Zayton; for it is one of
         the two greatest havens in the world for commerce.2
A word is in order about the name "Zayton" used by Marco Polo and other foreigners in
speaking of the city of Quanzhou during the Yuan dynasty. The appellation "Zayton,"
spelled variously as "Zaytun" or "Zaitun," was how Arabs referred to Quanzhou and, as
they were the dominant trade intermediaries, the name became prevalent among
foreigners.3 Although it is not commonly used to refer to Quanzhou these days, the old
name remains with us in the word "satin," one of the valued products from old
Quanzhou.4 Zayton is derived from the Chinese word citong jfUj^HJ which refers to the
tung tree which provides tung oil, an invaluable product in seafaring. This tree is native
to China and remains prevalent in the city of Quanzhou today, lining the southern
About two years after Marco Polo had left the great port of Zayton (or Quanzhou)
the Franciscan monk John of Monte Corvino (1246-1328) arrived en route to the Mongol
capital Khanbalik (Beijing) where he established two Catholic churches.6 Friar John was
followed by a group of Franciscan friars sent to China by Pope Clement V in 1307, these
Mongolian rule. Marco Polo, in the service of the Mongolian Kublai Khan, apparently adopted this usage.
It also appears in English as "Mangi," "Mancy" etc. Haw 2006: 115; Needham 1954: 169.
2
  Yule 1871 185-186.
3
   "Zaitun" was a sound familiar to Arabs as their word for "olive tree" hence Ibn Battuta's felt it pertinent to
mention that there were no olives in Zaitun! Yule 1871. Book II, nt. 2 p 188. Jerusalem was also known as
Zaitumya
4
  Yule 1871 Book II, nt 2 p 189
5
  1 suspect that the "tung" of tung oil and the tung tree is derived from the "tong" of citong but I have not
seen this linguistic relation made in any literature.
6
  Friar John of Monte Corvmo did not remain in Quanzhou and traveled on to Khanbalik (Beijing); arriving
in 1294, he established two churches and became recognized by Rome as the Archbishop of Khanbalik
After the fall of the Yuan and establishment of the Ming, Christians were expelled from China, not
returning until the end of the sixteenth century with the Jesuits Dawson 1980' xxxi-xxxiv
means and this became the cathedral of the Archbishop of Quanzhou, a post held in
succession by Friar Gerard, Friar Peregrine (Archbishop 1313-1322) and Friar Andrew of
Odoric de Pordenone paid a visit to Quanzhou and left the following account of offerings
        In this city is great plenty of all things that are needful for human
        subsistence. For example you can get three pounds and eight ounces of
        sugar for less than half a groat. The city is twice as great as Bologna, and
        in it are many monasteries of devotees, idol worshippers every man of
        them In one of those monasteries which I visited there were three
        thousand monks and eleven thousand idols. And one of those idols, which
        seemed to be smaller than the rest was as big as St. Christopher might be. I
        went thither at the hour fixed for feeding their idols, that I might witness it;
        and the fashion thereof is this: All the dishes which they offer to be eaten
        are piping hot so that the smoke nseth up in the face of the idols, and this
        they consider to be the idols' refection But all else they keep for
        themselves and gobble up. And after such fashion as this they reckon that
        they feed their gods well.
        The place is one of the best in the world, and that as regards its provision
        for the body of man. Many other things indeed might be related of this
        place, but I will not write more about them at present
7
  Letters have been preserved from Friar Peregrine (1318) and Friar Andrew of Perugia (1326) The
account of the bishopric of Quanzhou is based on these letters in Christopher Dawson's Mission to Asia
(Dawson 1980 232-237) and his introduction (Dawson 1980 xxxi-xxxv) Friar Andrew of Perugia
established a second Catholic church in Quanzhou before becoming Archbishop The last Archbishop of
Quanzhou was James of Florence, he was martyred by Chinese in 1362 in the backlash against foreigners
that accompanied the founding of the Ming
8
  Odoric had disinterred the bones of the four Friars martyred by Saracens (l e Muslims) at Supera / Tana
in India (N of Bombay) in 1321 and brought them to Quanzhou for re-burial (Letter of Friar Andrew m
Dawson 1980 237, nt 1 )
9
  Henry Yule (trans and ed ), Cathay and the Way Thither, being a collection oj Medieval Notices of China
(London The Hakluyt Society, MDCCCLXVI) Vol I pp 381-383 The identity of this temple is not made
clear and although it may have been Kaiyuan, it could have been another major Buddhist or even Daoist
monastery in Quanzhou
seaport and a city of incredible size, where our Minor Friars have, three very fine
churches, passing rich and elegant; and they have a bath also and afondaco
Around 1345, Quanzhou received a visit from the great traveler and "Muslim
Marco Polo" Ibn Battuta (1304-1368). The Moroccan born Ibn Battuta set out for Mecca
in 1325; after reaching Mecca he kept going and reached Quanzhou in 1345 or 1346.13
He described Quanzhou's as follows- "It is a large city, and in it they make the best
flowered and coloured silks, as well as satins, which are therefore preferred to those made
in other places. Its port is one of the finest m the world. I saw m it about one hundred
large junks; the small vessels were innumerable."14 Ibn Battuta met with Muslim clerics
                                                  15
Quanzhou then had "six or seven" mosques
10
   A k a Friar John of Florence Bishop of Bisignano, sent on one of the Papal-sponsored missions to
Mongol China He left Avignon in 1338 and, traveling overland, reached Peking m 1342 with a warhorse,
a gift he conveyed from Pope Benedict XII to Emperor Huizong TJTK ( Dawson 1980 xxxin-xxxiv)
11
   "[A] factory, l e 'a mercantile establishment and lodging house in a foreign country'" West, Andrew
2006 http //babelstone blogspot com/2006/11/chnstian-tombstones-of-zayton html See also Yule 1871
Book II, nt 2 p 188
12
   Yule 1913-16 229-230
13
   Dunn 1989 1-5
14
   Recorded inBattuta's account of his travels, translation by Rev Samuel Lee (Lee 2004 211-212)
15
   Clark 2003 228 Inscription collected m Chen 1984 1, 15, pi 21
dynasty, were unearthed in the 1940s and are now on display in Quanzhou's Museum of
                   17
Maritime Trade          This valuable collection includes Islamic inscriptions in Arabic and
Quanzhou's rare statue of Mam This exceptionally rare sculpture of Mam remains in
situ at what is said to be the only extant Mamchean temple m existence which is now
known as Cao'an ("Thatched Hut") temple JfC/H^ at Huabiao mountain Ip^z ill on the
                            ]
outskirts of Quanzhou            Other finds include a 1281 bilingual Tamil-Chinese inscription
that records the dedication of an image of Shiva in a new temple established in 1203 As
16
   A good overview of the international artistic artifacts m Quanzhou from the Yuan period may be found m
Guy 2010
17
   Wu Wenhang collected these religious artifacts in the 1940s and donated them to start Quanzhou's
Museum of Maritime Trade The finds are catalogued in Wu Wenhang 1957 Quanzhou zongjiao shike M.
J]|7Kffc5^!j("Religious inscriptions of Quanzhou") Beijing Kexue Chubanshe, and in the updated Wu
Wenhang and Wu Youxiong 2005 Quanzhou zongjiao shike Beijing Kexue Chubanshe For Islamic
finds in Quanzhou see Chen Dasheng 1984 Quanzhou Yisdanjiao shike ^Jlli^lJf j^t^-S^'JO'Islamic
inscriptions of Quanzhou") Yinchuan Ningxia Renmm Chubanshe N B Chen's work is bilingual Chinese-
English with inscriptions mostly in Arabic and Persian On the Tamil origin of Hindu finds in Quanzhou
see Guy 2001, 2010
18
   The Nestonan inscriptions are made in various languages Most common is a mixture of Syriac and Old
Turkish Also represented are inscriptions m the Mongolian Phags-pa script, Chinese and Uighur using
Syriac script A research team from Australian National University lead by Sam Lieu is researching these
religious artefacts from Quanzhou See http //www anchist mq edu au/doccentre/Zavton htm For more on
the Phags-pa inscriptions see Andrew West's blog at http //babelstone blogspot com/2006/11/christian-
tombstones-of-zavton html For the transcript of a 2003 radio interview with Sam Lieu by Rachael Kohn on
the Ark radio program see http //www abc net au/rn/rehg/ark/stones/s794442 htm
19
   For all of recent memory this Mamchean site has been used as a Buddhist shrine with the Mam statue
thought to be a Buddha Several sources claim it is the only Mamchean temple in existence such as
Pearson et al 2002 40 On another medieval Asian depiction of Mam see Gulacsi, Zsuzsanna 2009 "A
Mamchaean 'Portrait of the Buddha Jesus' Identifying a Twelfth-or Thirteenth-century Chinese Painting
from the Collection of Seiun-ji Zen Temple " Artibus Asiae 69 1 91-145
inscription in Chinese and Syriac known as the Arkoun tablet dating from 1313.21
communities of Muslims from Arabia and Persia, Nestorian Christians from Central Asia,
Franciscans from Europe, Hindus from South India and Manicheans from Central Asia.
While the archeological record has thus far failed to provide evidence of a Jewish
named Jacob d'Ancona, if proven credible, provides colorful details of Quanzhou at the
close of the Song dynasty and an account of Jews in the city.22 Quanzhou's impressive
in addition to its claim as the "starting point of the maritime silk road."
20
   Discovered in 1956, it was a Hindu inscription by a non-native writer of Tamil and refers to the
dedication of an image of Shiva in a new temple in 1203 (Guy 2001. 295-296).
21
   A rubbing from this tablet is on display in the Quanzhou Maritime Museum (I examined this piece in the
museum in 2006).
22
   An English translation of a text said to be written by Jacob D'Ancona in medieval Italian in the thirteenth
century was published in 1997 by David Selbourne entitled City of Light In this account Jacob provides a
vivid description of his stay m Quanzhou from August of 1271 to February of 1272 To the consternation of
scholars, no one else has been allowed to see the original document The document is said to have been
passed down by a Jewish family in secret due to fear of reprisals on the basis of anti-Christian statements
made throughout the work Since the original documents have not been independently verified questions of
its authenticity remains unresolvable (D'Ancona 2003)
In olden days, southern Quanzhou {Quanan M.W) was called a Land of Buddha
with famous mountains and large temples dispersed like stars, arranged like chess pieces;
Kaiyuan monastery was truly best of all. Founded during the Chuigong period (685-688)
of the Tang dynasty, it has seen the most years. Having as many as one hundred and
twenty cloisters {yuan Iki), it accumulated the greatest number of monks. With flocks of
talented masters in each of the three teachings- meditation, doctrine and discipline-
standing like a tripod, it has nurtured the greatest number of venerable teachers. The
history of such a temple is too vast to document, but how could we let it wash away
There is no record of this temple prior to the Tang dynasty. First there was Xu
Lie's TrF^'J Biographies of Purple Cloud Eminent Monks (Ziyun gaoseng zhuan JU'SJUJ
iftflr) from the Song dynasty which Mengguan Shi %£M R (i.e. Dagui) in the Yuan
dynasty derided as a collection of plagiarism, hearsay, non sequiturs and coarse language
that was not worth reading. Mengguan Shi then wrote the Biographies of Purple Cloud
1
  This is a work-in-progress which I will continue to work on and annotate, I welcome comments,
corrections and suggestions
2
  Wenling imW is an older name for Quanzhou
correct views, unique theses and elegant diction; it placed its author amongst the literary
From then until now, though only three hundred years have passed, the Chan
ethos has decayed; weakening over time, it seems as though nothing can be written. [P ia]
Although at times flourishing, at times decimated, with some things surviving, and others
left in ruins- one also cannot write nothing. In 1596, in the Wanli period of the Ming
dynasty, Mr. Chen Zhizhi P^lhih first wrote a record of this temple, but his research was
inadequate and people didn't think highly of it. In 1635, in the winter of the Chongzhen
period of the Ming dynasty, members of the Quanzhou gentry requested that I give
teachings at the "Purple Cloud" (i.e. Kaiyuan monastery). In my free time there I looked
into the temple's past and acquired two books, the Biographies of Bodhisattvas and the
Collected Works ofMengguan (J^MM). Upon reading them I began to realize how
many venerable masters there had been at the "Purple Cloud" and was stirred with great
admiration. At that time, Mr. Huang Jitao M^^ asked me several times about writing a
record book, [P2b] but I was then occupied with teaching the Surangama Sutra (Lengyan
jing WF^^r.) at the request of Mr. Zeng Eryun H Zl z?, so I wouldn't dare make any
promises.
In spring of 1642, when I returned to Fujian (Miri) from Zhejiang, I was again
requested to preside at the summer retreat (jiezhi ^P\).3 I was again asked by Mr. Fu
Youxm JM^h'ti' about writing a record, so I told him I would do it when I had returned to
 The summer retreat or Jiezhi traditionally begins April 13 or 15 of the lunar calendar and continues until
July 15th (Da Zhuo and Jian Ymg 2007)
took up my brush. For the period up to the Yuan dynasty I relied on the Biographies of
Bodhisattvas, for later periods I consulted old inscriptions and Mr. Chen's record, in
addition I collected oral reports and made my own observations; [P3a] these materials I
collated and arranged into four sections. The first is a section on buildings {jianzhi I t f i )
which gives the temple's layout. Second is a section on biographies of masters (kaishi JF
dr) 5 which reveals their talents and virtues. Third is a section on literature [associated
with the temple] (yiwen zlJC) which expresses its grandeur. Fourth is a section on
income generating farmlands (tianfu E9PK) which accounts for its subsistence. These
four sections may just outline the worn traces of a temple's thousand years. But how can I
write! I'm just a common southerner; failing in my Confucian studies, I turned to the
study of Buddhism. Having come to Quanzhou twice at the request of those gentlemen to
make empty talk, I'm deeply afraid I cannot repay their trust. [P 3b] Still not realizing my
ineptitude they petitioned me to write this record. Am I standing in for a real expert?
someday another with a fine brush should come then this record can be put away.
[P2 la]
4
  The monastery on Mount Drum lies just outside Fuzhou Lewis Hodous writing in 1923 describes a trip to
Mount Drum in Buddhism and Buddhists in China, pp. 15-16.
5
  Kaishi Jf dr, translated here as "masters" is an alternative Chinese translation term for the Sanskrit term
"bodhisattvas "
throughout the world. If one follows this fame to verify it as fact then it is not only
because it has so many venerable monks, but must also be because non-monastics value
the teaching of non-action (wuwei ^Cy%). Looking back to the Tang and Song dynasties
we find a great flourishing of the Buddha Dharma in Quannan with a forest of Chan
people (diling renjie i&M. A^S); it is the best of all. The auspicious sign of the mulberry
tree which bloomed lotus blossoms expresses delight at the magnificent spread of the
dharma realm. Fragrantly flowing amrita celebrates the exalted religious ethos.
Manjushri descended and wrote a sutra; arhats came into a dream.6 Venerable masters of
the three teachings- meditation, doctrine and discipline- have arisen one after another, too
many to count, they are truly capable of effecting changes in customs and traditions
iyifengyisu ^ M i H I r ) ; helping the world and giving direction to people so that a seaside
city of Confucius became a solemn land of Buddha. A worthy (xian']§;)of the past once
wrote a couplet for Kaiyuan temple which reads: [p2 ib] "In olden days this place was
called a Land of Buddha; Its streets were full of sages."7 Pondering these words, the rise
and fall of Kaiyuan temple bears a close relationship to the ways of the world and the
hearts of men. Thus one should not let this record of the temple be lost!
6
    These are references to well known stones about Kaiyuan temple, they are related below
7
 This couplet is attributed to Zhuxi fcM Cidi guchengfogno, Majie doushi shengren jtk^b'fi"!^^ Hi»
?iS$J#P^^A. It is now found on inscribed on pairs of boards (dinhan) hanging in the Hall of Heavenly
Kings and at the entrance to the Mam Hall, the calligraphy of these boards is said to be that of Master
Hongyi
worthies (sheng xian) have not appeared and the monastic rules have loosened every day.
Up to the current Republican period things have heavily deteriorated8 but an opportunity
has arrived for the dharma to make a comeback. There is master Yuanying ® i j | who has
mastered the Tripitika and whose fame reverberates throughout our era. While teaching
the Mahayana treatises {dacheng lun y*vfHife) in Singapore he met master Zhuandao f^itt
and his dharma brother Zhuanwu $f #). The three of them made a vow to revive this
temple and found the Kaiyuan Compassion for Children School (cieryuan HJLK).
Master Zhuandao is from Quanzhou, his secular surname is Huang. He is of the Kaiyuan
Huang lineage9 and had always had the ambition to revive Kaiyuan temple. Since master
Yuanying entrusted him with this mission, he has generously donated tens of thousands
of yuan which he had received as alms towards the rebuilding of Kaiyuan temple. Master
Yuanying and master Zhuanwu entered Kaiyuan temple in the lunar month of September
in 1924 (thirteenth year of Mingguo). Three days after they began [rebuilding], the peach
trees began to bloom red lotuses, an auspicious sign! The people of Quanzhou who saw
In the lunar month of August 1925 the temple school had its grand opening, but
because the rebuilding project was too overwhelming, master Yuanying again had to
solicit donations from lay persons. It should be noted that because the elder Huang
Shougong iiiTpljfe donated the land for the building of Kaiyuan temple, a hall named the
8
    bo luo MM
9
    Reference to Huang Shougong who donated the land upon which Kaiyuan temple was built
the "Purple Cloud" Huang family was chosen to lead the lay donors. In previous
restorations the Huang family had made contributions, so Yuanying together with Mr.
Huang Sunzhe M-f'l^S asked Senior Huang Zhutang M$Hi£. to write them a letter of
Huang family (san tanyue), Huang Zhongxun jStftHJII, Huang Yizhu M^zti and Huang
Xiulang M^M to urge them to contribute funds so that they may gain complete merit.
[p2 2b] Mr. Zhong Xun, with a penchant for poetry and literature, already had a literary
relationship with master Yuanying so he took the lead in offering to rebuild the Dharma
Hall (fa tang) with his brother Zhong Zan i$ tit and became an advocate for the
rebuilding. Mr. Yi Zhu offered to renovate the eastern pagoda, and Mr. Xiu Lang, the
western pagoda. These three lay patrons resolutely shouldered the burden of these three
special projects. Master Yuanying contentedly returned and hired the engineer Fu
Weizao i$Wz.-^- to be the specialist in charge. In the spring of 1926, Yuanying went to
Southeast Asia (Nanyang) to solicit funds for the Compassion for Children School in
hopes that it may endure forever. By 1927 the three projects had been completed in
succession. Mr. Zhong Xun also brought out his personal copy of the Record of Kaiyuan
Temple; since the temple had been restored he felt the temple chronicle should be made
more widely available, thus he donated money to master Yuanying to use for woodblock
printing and asked me to write a preface. Even though I am not so astute, thinking about
Kaiyuan as a place for the enlightenment and teaching of venerable sages, about the
source and stream of the whole temple and the excellent artifacts from each dynasty, I
certainly could not let it be lost to oblivion and heard of no more. Presently the temple's
and those lay patrons have been mentioned. May this provide future generations with a
[I la]
Written by the monk Yuanxian from Yong Chuan Chan temple on Mount Drum (Gushan)
in Fuzhou.
Preface
Regrettably, since the establishment of the Buddha Dharma from the West at Baima
("White Horse") Monastery and the spread of ornate temple buildings, if they are not in
exceptional places they are usually lost to oblivion and heard from no more. The Buddha
Land of Southern Quanzhou is truly full of old temples, but of those existing more than a
thousand years there is only one, the Kaiyuan temple—"The great fruit has not been
eaten" (i.e. gentlemen respect it, and the evil are afraid to destroy it).10 Its reputation has
not declined, and those nostalgic for things old can still hear about and experience it.
10
   "No one eats the big fruit" Shuoguo bit shi i S H ^ ' i l ' is from the Yi Jmg, hexagram 23 {bo §lj "peeling")
It is said that if a gentleman (junzi M-f~) picks the fruit it would bring good luck, if a common person (xiao
ren 'h A ) steals the fruit, this would be bad omen It follows that common people can therefore not harm
this fruit and the implication that gentleman would not bring it harm, thus "no one eats the big fruit" and it
W^F) was once located outside the West Pure Gate (xiqing men j2nftfj) of Quanzhou
city (jun cheng). When the city later expanded the temple became located inside the city,
in the western section. In lunar February of 686 (the second year of Chuigong) in the
Tang dynasty, citizen Huang Shougong had a dream while napping, [i it>] A monk begged
to have his land for a temple. Mr. Gong said, "Should my trees bloom white lotuses, I
shall concede." Pleased, the monk thanked him and suddenly disappeared. Two days
passed and the mulberry trees really bloomed white lotuses. The local authorities
considered this an auspicious rumor and asked to build a place for practice (daochang).
The empress granted permission and named it "Lotus Flower." The monk Kuanghu Wffi
was asked to serve as abbot. In 692 (Renchen year of Changshou), the name was
Shenlong), the name was changed again to "Flourishing Dragon" (longxing ~MT^). In
26th year of Xuanzong's ^ ^ reign (738), he ordered that every state in the realm should
have one temple to be named for the current period (the jinian, i.e. Kaiyuan); the local
administration complied with the order by changing the name to "Kaiyuan." From the
Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms up to the Song Dynasty one hundred and twenty
neighboring cloisters (zhiyuan 3L$%) were constructed which were separate and
independent of one another. In 1285 (yiyou year of the Zhiyuan M7C period), the Sangha
can grow ever big This is the explanation in the Zhouyijijie MMMM, a Tang dynasty collection of
commentaries from Han to Tangy on the Yijing, cited in Huang Shouqi M^flU and Zhang Shanwen 5fe#
3C 2001 Zhouyi yizhu MM # v i ("The Yijing, Translation and Commentary") Shanghai: Shanghai Guji
Publishing House, p 202
shengping zhang fx^^pjp:) Bo Yan i&M. who in turn reported to and petitioned the
emperor to have the cloisters united as one temple. The emperor dubbed the united
complex, "Great Kaiyuan Everlasting Chan Monastery." [i2a] The following year, the
monk Miao'en fyPM was invited to become the inaugural11 abbot. As the Chan way
spread far and wide, novice monks raced here in droves. The succeeding abbot was Qizu
iScliL; during these forty years the temple supported a thousand monks.12
The recurring famines and widespread pillaging and plundering at the end of the
Yuan dynasty were disheartening to the temple. By 1397 (30th year of Hongwu) the
temple monks were nearly wiped out in the disaster. Learning of this, officials [reported
to their superiors]. The following year, emperor Gaozu iSJli. (i.e. Taizu ^Clfi, a.k.a. Zhu
Yuanzhang ^jnifit) sent the monk Zhengying JEf#t to be the abbot. After arriving he
restored buildings and cleared away debris. Due to this, it was not long before the temple
was again flourishing. But only two generations later the Chan ethos had weakened.
During the Chenghua and Hongzhi periods (1465-1488) the temple again split apart like
clouds. The monastic rules and order became corrupted day by day. From the Longqin to
Wanli periods (1567-1573) the older structures had fallen into ruins and more than half
of the shrine rooms and monk's dormitories had been occupied by non-monastics. [i2t>]
Even the ordination platform hall had been taken over by gunpowder manufacturers. The
intrusion also spread to the Dharma Hall, which was partially occupied. This continued
for thirty years until 1594 (jiawii year of Wanli) when the lay disciple and vice censor-in-
those involved in manufacturing were expelled and old properties began to be recovered,
The Purple Cloud Main Hall (ziyun dadian s^kIzk'j\W) was built by the monk Kuanghu
in 686 (the second year of the Chuigong period in the Tang dynasty). At that time there
was an auspicious sign, a purple cloud covering the ground which is how it got its name.
Emperor Xuanzong changed the name to "Kaiyuan" and bestowed upon the temple a
Buddha statue which was later destroyed. In 897 (fourth year of Qianning), the acting
president of the ministry of public works14 Wang Shengui zE^iK rebuilt the hall and had
four Buddha statues made; already present was a central statue given by the Emperor.
The monk Zhaowu M'M brought pratyekabuddha relics which were installed in the
Buddha statue.1 In 1095 (the second year of Shaosheng) of the [Northern] Song dynasty,
the monk Fashu fe^ [i 3a] renovated the main hall and installed 1000 Buddha statues
therein. In 1155 (the 25th year of Shaoxing) [of the Southern Song], it burned down and
was rebuilt. In the Yuan dynasty, the monk Qizu ordered the monk Bofu {file to pave
the main courtyard {da ting ffiM) in front of the main hall with stone. In 1357 (the
dingyou year of Zhizheng), it burned down again and was rebuilt in 1389 (the yisi year of
Hongwu) [of the Ming dynasty] by the monk Huiyuan MM.. In 1408 (the wuzi year of
Yongle), the monk Zhichang 5 H repaired the corridors, expanded the platform [in front
13
   xianfu %m]\, i.e fu duyushi giJtPfPi
14
   jianjiao gong bu shangshu tltUlniSfal^
15
   In the middle statue Is it possible that relics were put in all the statues7
courtyard. He also built several small stupas arranged like wings [along the sides of the
courtyard]. In 1594 (the 22nd year of Wanli), laypersons taking the lead, together with
monastics made repairs. In 1637 (the Dingchou year of Chongzhen), the provincial
                                        16
administrative vice commissioner             Mr. Zeng Ying title and the brigade general1 Mr.
Zheng Zhilong M^S-'M rebuilt the main hall, replacing all the wooden columns with stone;
making it even more magnificent than before. Providing help was the monk Guanglun ,T~
The Amrita Ordination Platform (ganlu jietan "ttltftSoJS) is located behind the main
hall. Back during the Tang dynasty, amrita {ganlu T=T"SS)18 often fell on this place,[i 3b] so
the monk Xingzhao ff BS dug the amrita well. In 1019 (third year of the Tianxi period of
the Song), the government promulgated the pudu ia 1st19, a call for universal ordination,
and monks began to construct the ordination platform. In 1128 (the second year of
Jianyan), because the platform structure was not in line with ancient tradition, the monk
Dunzhao Wi^a rebuilt it according to an ancient illustrated sutra (gu tujing T^fK^n).20
His platform had five levels, the proportions of their heights, lengths and widths all built
according to strict rules. Chong'guan M^M was asked to write a notice recording this
   dacan      ~}\^
1
   zongbing &.£$
18
   lit "sweet dew" it is also used to translate Sanskrit amrita
19
    Ordered by emperor Shenzong, the pudu would appear to refer to a pudu sengm which was a periodic
call for "universal tonsure and ordination" that the government might use for celebratory reasons in which
restrictions on ordinations were lifted for a period of time The pudu was a policy governing religious
ceremonies Originally it was a strict rule prohibiting such things as commerce (Jianying 2007 and Dazhou
2007, personal communication)
20
   The Nanshan Jietan Tujing ~M ill f&MW^t
Ordination Platform; vice minister21 Chendang $ja3£ wrote the name board.
In 1357 {Dingyou year of Zhizheng), the Ordination Hall burned down. In 1400 (33rd
year of Hongwu), it was rebuilt by the monk Zhengying. Although it was as magnificent
as before, the structure was not the same as the previous one by Dunzhao. In 1411
(Xinmao year of Yongle), the monk Zhichang added-on four corridors. During the
connections (yinyuan j t t ^ , i.e. guanxi), moved in bringing their wives and children. A
forge, mortar and pestle and such implements were set up and ash and debris piled-up in
mounds. In 1576 (fourth year of Wanli), [i4a] four skilled soldiers burned to death. The
monks sued the government, imploring to have those manufacturers removed, but the
manufacturers loved this place like home, and the government put the case aside. In
1594 (22nd year of Wanli), the fire god (Huilu MWO appeared in the dreams of
neighboring residents disturbing their peace both day and night. Layman Huang Wenbin
forcefully reported the situation to the Emperor. All those manufacturers were expelled
and Mr. Huang led the people in making repairs. The Ordination Platform Hall again
looked new. The one who completed this work was the monk Ruyou #P$3.
The old Tripitika was in a state of disrepair and disarray with only three-tenths remaining.
In 1628 (the first year IWuchen year of Chongzhen), the monks Ruyou and Guanglun
went to Nandu (the city of Nanyang in Henan) and asked the commissioner of the office
21
     Shi lang #§|3- vice director/vice minister in the Secretariat or the Chancellery (Hucker 1985 426-427).
22
     cm guan ^"B*, I e. "skilled soldier" of the militia (Hucker 1985, 515).
collected a complete Tripitika, which they stored in the Ordination Hall upon their return.
The Dharma Hall (fa tang fkM.) is behind the Ordination Hall. It was built by the
sangha administrator Liu Jianyi inl285 (Yiyou year of Zhiyuan). It was destroyed in
1357. In 1398 (31st year of Hongwii), the monk Zhengying came to become the abbot by
order of the Emperor. [i4t>] Upon his taking leave of the emperor, the emperor encouraged
him with the words, "Keep heart pure and self clean" (qingxinjieji fn'ttfn 3 ) . When
Zhengying arrived at the temple, he first completed the rebuilding of this hall and erected
an inscribed board reading, "Keep heart pure and self clean" to show he would not forget
[the emperors word]s. During the Jingtai period (1450-1456), the monk Huilian if§3|
made minor repairs. In 1548 (Wushen year ofJiaqing), the prefect (tai shou 'X.^f), Mr.
Since the Longqin period (1567-1572), those [munitions] manufacturers occupying the
Ordination Hall as home later broke into the Dharma Hall. There were also some rich
and powerful people (er san haoyou — EiM-M) who covetously eyed this place. In 1594
{Jiawu year of Wanli), the government forcibly expelled them and the Dharma Hall
began its recovery. And so the old inscribed board was hung back up again.
2j
  tong zheng shi M$l{£ The office of transmission was a central government agency responsible for
collecting and registering memorials from throughout the empire (Hucker 1985, 553)
Zhiyuan period (1279-1294) by the inaugural abbot, Miao'en. It was destroyed at the end
of the Yuan dynasty. It was rebuilt by the monk Zhengying. In 1410 (Gengying year of
Yongle), the monk Zhichang made repairs and named it with an inscription board reading,
"A Pure Land and Place of Enlightenment" (Han yuanjue chang JUJ^B j*t %i).\\ 5a] In 1558
(37th year of Jiaqing), the Temple of Water and Land was occupied by the rich and
powerful (hao you) leaving the monks with no place to live. So the Chan hall was given
to the monks from the Land and Water Temple to be their dormitory. It still exists today.
The Twin Cinnamon Tree Hall (shuanggui tang M.&"3L) used to be the kitchen.24 It
sits to the left of the ordination platform. It was first built when the monk Miao'en
became the inaugural abbot. His building had seven rooms. It was repaired in 1279
(Yimao year of Zhiyuan)25 by the monk Tianquan ^K^ and later destroyed. It was rebuilt
in 1399 (Yimao year of Hongwu) by the monk Zhengying and ongoing repairs were made
by the monk Yongan 7K^. It was again destroyed and given over to non-monastics.26 In
1581 (9th year of Wanli), Mr. Peng Guoguang MW\^t, the county head commissioner
(yihou B{|C), purged it and reclaimed it for the temple. Soon afterwards it was again sold,
[this time] as a school (shushu ^Ifi). In 1624 (4th year of Tianqi), Mr. Chen Liangcai $k
5l;;Ht, the supervisor general (zongxian &^), gave money to redeem it. It was used as a
place to host visiting monks (shifang ~f~7j). Mr. Chen requested that Almu of fields of
   xiang ] i tang # ^R H
25
   Is there a mistake here 7 Miao'en became abbot in 1286, if it was first built then, how could it be repaired
in 1279^
26
   mm jian KI'H], lit. "common people."
Kaiyuan temple's fields. Together these were used to cover this hall's hosting expenses,
[i 5b] as well as to provide for the incense and lamps in the Ordination Hall. To be used
forever as the perpetual abode (chang zhu WH) of visiting monks. The persons
administrating this project were the monks Jiehuang flSJjI and Daoben i S ^ . Later, when
it was decided by popular vote, they took turns administrating. In 1636 (Bingzi year of
Chongzhen), when Yuanxian, the abbot of Mount Drum, was giving teachings here, it
began to be called today's name because two Chinese cinnamon trees planted in the
courtyard were in full bloom. In 1641 (Xinsi year of Chongzhen), the monk Dingxi / E H
collected funds to redeem temple properties [formerly lost] to the "ten directions."
The Donor's Ancestral Shrine (tanyue ci W-Ml*!)27 used to be the Shrine to Monastery
Protectors (qielan ci iJiWsm.^1). It lies to the left of the Dharma hall. The monk Miao'en
built it during the Zhiyuan period (1279-1294). It burned down in 1357 (Dingyou year of
Zhizheng) and was rebuilt by the monk Zhengying during the Hongwu period (1368-
1398). Over time its walls fell into ruins and it was lost to non-monastics. In 1596 (24th
year of Wanli), the mayor (junshou W>$f) Mr. Cheng Zhaojing IM^iH recovered it for
the temple. The layman and vice censor-in-chief Mr. Huang Wenbin led his clan in
building the ancestral hall for making offerings to their ancestor Huang Shougong.
[16a]
Dharma Hall. Because it had been fallen into disuse [at this location], offerings were
shifted to a corridor in the east in the area where the Arhat Hall was formerly located. In
the beginning, the inaugural abbot Miao'en dreamed one night of five hundred monks
asking him to be their master (yizhi jlcih). In the morning he heard that the arhat hall at
Nanshan T^J ill temple in Hangzhou (Wulin 3 £ # ) had burned so he built the hall of 500
arhats. This hall was 30 rooms [in area] with a Guanyin for offerings in the middle and
500 arhats at its sides. In 1393 (26th year of Hongwu), the monk Huiming M'w repaired
it. During the Zhengde period (1506-1521), the monk Fangluan 7 f # rebuilt it. After
this it fell into disuse and was sold at a discount (zhe ru if A ) to non-monastics. Its old
statues no longer exist, only the Qianzhao corridor ftf JS/lijI remains. After weighing the
options, the middle of the corridor was converted into the Qielan Hall and the left side
became monastic dormitories; the right side is still a school. In 1595 (23rd year of
[I 6b]
   Qielan is used to translate Sangharama or Sanghagara meaning a gathering place for monks (l e
monastery or vihara) In this context it refers to beings who protect the monastery and therefore the
Sangha, so I have chosen to translate "Qielan Shrme" as "Shrine to Monastery Protectors " The contents of
this hall are not described, but a typical Qielan Shrine would house several figures associated with the
establishment and protection of monasteries. Three central figures typically enshrined are the individuals
responsible for the establishment of the Jetavana monastery Anathapmdaka, prmce Jeta, and King
Pasenadi Along the sides would be 18 protector deities and some halls include a statue of Guangong 3K£
          Guangong is sometimes referred to as Qielan Bodhisattva (Pusa) Incorporated mto Chinese
Buddhism in the sixth century, he is based on the historical figure Guan Yu ^|<0, a general during the
Three Kingdoms period (220-280 CE) Guangong is venerated in Confucianism as Guansheng ; % S and
in Taoism as Guandi ^r'Sf Some Qielan Halls today only have a statue of Guangong as a representative
Sangha/monastery protector
making offering to the Flourishing Compassion Sage King (ci xing sheng wang W-^^.
zE). He is the monastic property protector deity for all 120 cloisters. At first, on the first
of every month, the head monk (zhuseng i f a ) took money from the budget of the main
temple, without receiving money from the other cloisters. There were always complaints
that name and reality didn't match. When the monk Zhengying became abbot even the
gods appeared to take refuge. Since that time offerings were made at the Sage King Hall
more diligently. The record of the years of the building's history are lost. In 1591 (19th
year of Wanli), the local gentry requested this place be used to make offering to the four
worthies (si xian KM). 29 In 1596 (24th year of Wanli), Mr. Cheng Zhaojmg, the mayor,
presented papers to the court to win back the temple. Offering were again made to the
sage king as before. Later in 1608 (Wushen year), the government transferred one third
The East Pagoda (dong ta~M$£)is known as the "Pagoda which Stabilizes the Country"
(zhen guo ta lUPIIiiJ). The Chan master Wencheng JCM first built a five-story wooden
pagoda during the Xiantong32 period (860-873) of the Tang dynasty.33 When building it,
   It is not clear who are the four worthies or sages referenced here In Quanzhou, four Persians who
brought Islam to the city were sometimes called the four worthies (si xian) It is not inconceivable that the
four worthies here are the same, an intriguing possibility, but requiring further investigation.
30
   The woodblock print readsjz zhao ta')S ("offer to shine") which doesn't make sense, so I read it as a
misprint for ji zhao into ("present documents")
31
   More information is not provided about which Jiang this hall was built for It could be for a local clan
Other possibilities include the legendary Chinese Emperor Yandi rfeffr (a k a Shen Nong Shi fflfc R) or
the Zhou dynasty National Teacher Jiang Ziya H " ? ^
32
   The sizhi has a misprint, stating Xianheng JRSG? rather than Xiantong AM.
3j
   According to the Gazetteer ofFujian (Bamin tongzhi AfflilLife) as quoted m the Gazetteer of Quanzhou
Municipality (Quanzhou Fu Zhi XVI, 19b) the original wooden pagoda was built at the same time as the
evening, the box would be full of money, [i 7a] The master said to the workers, "The daily
salary for all workers is 100 qian; you can take it from the box yourselves." It happened
that some who took more than their share became lost on their way home. Afterwards,
no one dared take more than their due. In 865 (sixth year of Xiantong) the wooden
pagoda was completed. It was dubbed "Country Stabilizer" Zhenguo by the Emperor (i.e.
administrator of state granaries34, came from the capital (i.e. Chang'an, today's Xian)
During the Tianxi period (1017-1021) of the Song dynasty, it was rebuilt as a thirteen-
storied pagoda. It burned down in 1155 (Yihai year of Shaoxing). In 1186 (Bingwu year
of Chunxi), it was rebuilt by the monk Liaoxing T14. In 1227 {Dinghai year of
Baoqing), it burned down again. The monk Shouchun ^fW- rebuilt it as a seven-storied
brick pagoda. In 1238 {Wuxu year of Jiaxi), the monk Benhong $•$; began to convert it
to stone. He only completed one story. Faquan £fe$£ continued building up to the fourth
story then died. A teaching monk from Tianzhu 3K.=L built the fifth story and the
Western pagoda in the raid ninth century, during the period of Five dynasties, but both the Quanzhou Fu
Zhi and the Jinjiang xianzhi agree with the Kaiyuansi zhi in terms of the Tang dynasty founding
34
   cang cao I^W- In Tang times there were sixteen military units stationed at the capital, each unit had
various support officials This was one of the officials m the granaries section {cang cao l^rW). Hucker
1985 427,520
33
   The identity of "teaching monk from Tianzhu" has caused considerable speculation in Western language
publications Some have thought he was an Indian monk because Tianzhu Guo ^^=.3 is India. However,
this notion was dismissed by Demieville who suggested, however, that Tianzhu might refer to Tianzhu
temple near Hangzhou (Ecke and Demieville 1935, 92) The identity of this monk can rather securely be
lead from the eight corners of the pagoda [to the treasure cap]. At the very top [extending
above the treasure cap] [i 7b] is a gilded bronze gourd (hulu tMf^) which shines like gold.
The middle of every story is the heart of the pagoda; it spirals and is empty {huan zhuan
kong dong 5F$f 5? VPH). Every story has eight niches, each containing a stone bodhisattva
statue, deities were carved on each side standing guard. Beyond this stood galleries
enclosed by stone railings. Ascending the stairway, the color of the sea and mountain
The first story of the pagoda is 28 feet (chi) in height; the circumference is 172 feet. The
next story is 2.5 feet less in height and 8 feet less in circumference. The third story is 23
feet, five inches (cun \f") in height with a circumference of 16 feet less [than the bottom].
The fourth story again has a height which is 1.5 feet less and a circumference 8 feet less.
The final story is 19 feet in height with a circumference of 146 feet. The spire {ding gan
M^F) is 67 feet tall. The length from top to bottom is altogether 193 feet and five inches.
identified with Tianxi ^cfl (a k.a. Chuzhuo W$J) who is named in three local records (zhi &) as the
builder of the top story of the eastern pagoda (a.k.a. Zhengguo ta). These records are the Gazetteer of
Jinjiang County, 1652 ; the Gazetteer of Quanzhou Municipality XVI, 20a; and the biographical section of
the Record ofXuefeng Temple ( ^ i l # # S Xuefengsi zhi) Li Yukun $ ^ S MJM B% jf 7§£Mfe(Quanzhou
Evening News-Overseas Edition), July 14, 2005 article at http.//www.qzwb.com/gb/content/2005-
07/14/content 1720739 htm PAGE#. Demieville noticed the name of Tianxi ^cfjj in the Gazetteer of
Quanzhou Municipality, but thought that Tianxi (3k$k) was most likely a misprint of Tianzhu (3K.=L) since
each was preceded by tian 3K Tianxi (1209-1263) was born in Yipu S . S into the You ~jt family of
Jinjiang, Quanzhou He built the Xuefeng temple outside Quanzhou on Mount Yangmei in Nan'an in honor
of the Qmgyuan Chan patriarch Xuefeng Yicun S ^ J ^ i ? (J Seppo Gison, 822-908) (Record of Xuefeng
Temple)
beams. There are 192 large capitals (dou -4-) inside and out and 440 small capitals. There
are 40 ridgepoles, 112 large brackets (gong Ift) and 80 small brackets.
Along the base are carved greenstones (qing shi W 5 ) . Their magnificent beauty is
effortless and sublime (huajing i^J-%), fine and vigorous. It is supernatural work of
power.
In 1394 (Jiaxu year ofHongwu), the spire collapsed; in 1397 (Dingchou year of Hongwu),
the monk Yong'an collected funds to repair it. In 1604 (Jiachen year of Wanli), there was
a great earthquake; stone beams fell from the top of the pagoda, two from the south side
and eight from the southeast corner. Some stairs were destroyed by the impact. In 1606
(Bingwu year of Wanli), the vice minister36 Mr. Zhan Yangbi ^jfp/tb^served as the
liaison for the collection of funds for repairs by the two local monks Tongquan ill4? and
Hongcha "jAUF and the monk Zhenxiao J|Hj£ from Tianjie temple ^ : | f in Nanjing.
The West Pagoda (xi ta Hji^) is called the "Pagoda of Benevolence and Longevity" (ren
shou ta t ^ f J^). It was built in 916 (second year / wushen year of Zhenming) during the
36
     Shilang fr" IP Vice minister in one of the six ministries of the central government Hucker 1985 426-427
17
     A poem which celebrates these two spires by Zhan Yangbi is recorded m the Sizhi III 28a-b
a few feet above the ground, [i 8b] Some time later, a monk who was drifting on the sea
came and stayed at the temple. At that time, the King of Fujian Wang Shenzhi was
building a wooden pagoda at his chief military command {da dudufu ^iiPHF)^). 39 One
night he dreamed that a monk spoke to him, "I heard your majesty was building a pagoda
in your chief military command. Could you please move it to stabilize the spring." The
king was furious and ordered the monk beheaded. When the head fell, the body jumped
up a few inches into the air. The king was startled [and when he awoke] he sent a search
party to Quanzhou [to find this monk]. The people in Quanzhou said that there was a
mad monk but that he was now dead. The king floated the lumber down the sea to
Quanzhou to build the pagoda. Building began on the first of April in 916 (second year
of Zhenming) and was completed on the last day of December. It had seven stories and
was called the "Pagoda of Amitayus" (lit. "infinite life" wuliang shou ^cJl^f.)
On October 10th, 1114 (Jiawu year of Zhenghe) in the Song dynasty, there was a green
and yellow light which emanated from the pagoda high into the clouds. It soon turned to
five colors and did not disappear until daybreak. Local officials reported this to the
emperor who then dubbed it "Benevolence and Longevity." In 1155 (Yihai year of
Shaoxing), it burned down and was rebuilt during the Chunxi period (1174-1189) by the
monk Liaoxing. [i 9a] It burned down again and was rebuilt in brick by the monk
Shouchun. In 1228 (first year IWuzi year of Shaoding), the monk Zizheng began to
convert the brick into stone. On top there were installed treasures of gold and silver and
38
     Wushen J% Ejd year appears to be a mistake, it should read Bingzi M^F (Zhou Shurong 1999a, 42)
39
     This would have been m Fuzhou, rather than Quanzhou
five feet less and its height is fifteen feet and five inches shorter.40 They are magnificent
erections which look identical. It was completed in 1237 (first year of Jiaxi), that is, ten
In 1401 (Xinsi year of Hongwu), the heart of the pagoda was damaged and repaired by
the abbot Zhengying. In 1588 (Wuzi year of Wanli), a great hurricane damaged the spire,
causing the gilded pinnacle to fall to the ground. A local resident named Fu Mingzhi ill
B^H? repaired it. Some lower railings were damaged; all of these were replaced. In
August of 1606 {Bingwu year), there was another unusual wind which damaged the entire
spire, including the copper cap, the iron incense burner, the iron chains and the gilded
gourd (i.e. pinnacle) in the whirlwind. In the autumn of 1612 (Renzi year), resident
[I 9b]
The Pavilion for Paying Homage to his Majesty (baisheng ting ^fis^r) is nicknamed
Prostrating with Incense Pavilion (baixiang ting ^ # - ? ) . It lies in front of the main hall
and is attached to the back of the Threefold Gate. We do not know in which dynasty it
was first built. It may have been through concern with bad weather that it was built to
convenience those prostrating during a long-life blessing for the emperor. In later times
it was altered and rebuilt along the same general lines as the Threefold gate.
40
     "15 feet" is a translation of one zhang 3t (=10 "feet") and five chi K
had an auspicious sign, a peony that grew from a stone column. It burned down inl 155
(25th year of Shaoxing) of the Song dynasty and was later rebuilt. In the spring of 1327
(fourth year of Taiding) it burned down again and was rebuilt by the monk Guozhao jfcj§.
In 1350 (tenth year of Zhizheng) departmental magistrate {jianjun H£f$) Xie Shiyu i% tft
3£ wrote the name board reading, "The Buddha Land of Southern Quanzhou" {Quannan
fo guo 7k~^\% EH). During the Hongwu period (1368-1398) the monk Zhengying made
repairs. In the Wanli period (1573-1619) the monk Zhenxiao M^ made repairs.
The East and West Bounding Structures {dongxi erfang ^f^ZLijj) lie outside the
Threefold Gate. They were constructed by the monk Guozhao in 1327 (fourth year of
Taiding). [i ioa] Recording the temple's propitious features, the left reads, "Eight
Auspicious Signs" ibaji xiang A PF # ) and the right reads, "Six Unique Sites" (liu
shusheng 7 N ^ ^ 4 ) . During the Hongwu period (1368-1398) the monk Zhengying made
repairs. Before the temple lies a reflecting wall {zhaoqiang 'jail!).41 It was built in 1576
(4th year of Wanli) by the vice-mayor (juncheng f$zR) Mr. Ding Yizhong T ^ ' T 4 . In
1624 (Jiazi year of Tianqi), Mr. Chen Liangcai P/£jnE3fc, the supervisor general,42 rebuilt
it.
41
   This wall is now referred to as the Purple Cloud Screen (ziyunping H Z J J P ) . At other temples this
structure is referred to as a "spirit wall" (ying bi i^M). See Pnp Moller , 7.
 2
   zongxian ,& ^
destroyed in 895 (second year of Qianning) and rebuilt in 897 (fourth year of Qianning)
by the prefect (junshuai MW) Wang Shengui who cast a new bell. It was later destroyed
The Sutra Library (jing lou %x.$£) used to be located northwest of the main hall. The
vice director (pushe \YM) of the Department of State Affairs43 Mr. Wang Chao 3ij|§
from Taiyuan^Cj^ asked monks copy three thousand volumes (Juan # ) of the Tnpitika
(dazangjing) to store there. In 895 (second year of Qianning) prefect Wang Shengui
rebuilt it. It was later destroyed and has not been rebuilt. During the Xiaosheng period
[I 10b]
The Reclining [Buddha] Hall (qin tang fll jit) was behind the Dharma Hall. It was built
in 1287 (Dinghai year of Zhiyuan) by Liu Jianyi and the executive administrator4 Bo
Yan {&M. It was later destroyed. In 1368 (Wushen year of Hongwu) the monk Linxiang
   Wang Chaoyan was the head of the Wang family that ruled Fujian for most of the period between the
Tang and Song. He began his political career in Fujian by taking the position of Quanzhou prefect by force.
He then moved to the head seat of power in Fuzhou (Clark 1981 • 130-136) The Department of State
Affairs (shang shu sheng fnjU^") was the functioning administrative agency at the executive core of the
government Since the Han dynasty it was headed by a director (ling •§•), but after the directorship was held
by Emperor Taizong J\TF. (r 626-649), it was managed by two vice directors who supervised the six
ministries (hu bu A nP) below it (Hucker 1985 29, 412)
44
   pingzhang T M- lit "deliberate and decide " Used as abbreviation for "the most eminent officials of the
central government, those who served as Grand Councilors (tsai-hsiang, ch'eng-hsiang) overseeing all
governmental activities in common with the Emperor all such usages terminated in 1380 " (Hucker 1985
385) Alternatively, a more specific title for a "mid-level executive of the Secretariat (chung-shu sheng)
and of each Branch (hsmg) Secretariat " (ibid )
M) during the Jiaqing period (1522-1566) and was occupied by locals. Today we are
The Abbot's Quarters (fang zhang Tfjt) were behind the Reclining [Buddha] Hall.
Behind it was the huashi district (huashipu ^tfcff). 4 5 Today's street is still called
"Behind the Great Temple" (dasi hou ^C^fjn).46 Following the disastrous fire of the
Jiaqing period (1522-1566) it fell into disuse and never recovered. It was eventually
The old Donor's Ancestral Shrine (jiu tanyue ci ISll®?^]) was at the western corridor
of the main hall. It was built by the monk Miao'en during the Zhiyuan period (1279-1294)
of the Yuan dynasty. It was used to make offerings to the virtuous king who was loyal to
Fujian (min zhongyi wang |A]^M.3E) with auxiliary shrines for Huang Shougong and
Dong Si'an H E S S C . 4 7 Today the ruined property has been sold at a discount and become
people's homes.
45
   Pu l i was a term designating a municipal administrative district during Ming and Qing times in
Quanzhou. At the level of the city was the cheng i$L which was divided into four yu PFI (quarters). The
four quarters were sub-divided into pu ffl (districts) which were further sub-divided mtojing^sL (sub-
districts). Hua shi district was in the Western quarter and comprised of two sub-districts, qi shijing RH±
and hua shijing ^ t h ^ t . (Quanzhou History Net- http://qzhnet.dnscn.cn/qzh57.htm )
46
   The street immediately behind the temple retains this name to this day and the abbot's quarters
effectively lie on this street (while the quarters do not face the street, the back entrance to the abbot's
quarters is from this street).
47
   Dong Si'an was a military commander and Wang family loyalists who stayed with the Wang's till the
end. His undying loyalty to the Wang's who had been great patrons of Kiayuan and builders of Quanzhou
earned him a shrine at Kaiyuan monastery. See chapter two for more on Dong Si'an. The respect he
inspired in the people enabled his political career to outlast the Wang's. The final defeat of the Wang
family by the Southern Tang in 945 marked the end of a united empire of Min. By 948 only Quanzhou and
Hall and just across from the Qielan Shrine. It was built by the monk Miao'en during the
Zhiyuan period (1279-1294). [i iia] It was rebuilt by the monk Zhengying during the
Hongwu period (1368-1398). It later fell into disuse and was sold at a discount and
became people's homes. In 1596 (24th year of Wanli) the temple monk redeemed the
The Eastern Tripitika Hall (dong zang dian %WLW) used to lie to the east of the main
hall. In 1096 (3rd year of Shaosheng) the monk Fashu £fe^ offered his hall of residence,
thereby establishing this hall. It preserved the Tripitika and Tang Taizong's (founding
emperor of the Tang dynasty) imperial handwriting. In 1155 (Yihai year of Shaoxing) it
burned down and was later rebuilt. The Yuan dynasty monk Qizu also made a revolving
sutra shelf (zhuan lun zang~$z~ffeW).In 1357 {Dingyou year of Zhizheng) it burned down
again and has not been rebuilt. Later the property was sold to non-monastics. In 1639
(Yimao year of Chongzhen) it was redeemed and made into a monastic dormitory.
The Western Tripitika Hall (xi zang dian HiSIS) was south of the Amitabha Hall.
It was built in 1394 (Jiashu year of Hongwu) by the monk Huiming. Because the Eastern
Tripitka Hall was gone (fei M), it was relocated here. It had two compounds (zuo ]M),
front and back (shangxia _ t T ) . It was destroyed during the Chenghua period (1465-
Zhangzhou remained independent with Fuzhou under Wu-Yue and Jianzhou and Dingzhou under the
Southern Tang Dong Si'an was made prefect of Zhangzhou while Lm Congxiao was prefect of Quanzhou
(Schaffer 2006-53-62)
have been combined by the local gentry to use for dormitories for monks of the Land and
Water Temple.
The Meng Hall (meng tang m'Si) was west of the mam hall and behind the Donor's
Ancestral Hall. It was built by Miao'en during the Zhiyuan period (1279-1294). It served
as the off-duty resting place for the general manager (jianyuan i!n.l^). At the end of the
Yuan dynasty it burned down and has not been rebuilt. Today the land has been sold at a
discount to non-monastics.
period (685-688) of the Tang dynasty by the head patriarch, grand master Kuanghu at the
place where the mulberry trees bloomed lotus blossoms. During the Song dynasty it
M first built a Great Compassion Pavilion (dabei ge i^MM) and made a 1000 armed and
eyed Guanyin statue, [i 12a] In 1155 (25th year of Shaoxing), it burned down. It had
48
 "Public" meaning that leadership was not hereditary and study was open to monks of other schools and
masters
position. In 1198 (fourth year of Qingyuari), Faxuan £feI1t built a different hall. Liang
Kejun HcJ^Lil? and Li Chenshi $ | t $ , members of the local gentry, assisted; Chen tfc
recorded this event. When Kezun RTiff, Shouchang ^p-fe, and Youpeng W J3H led this
cloister; they were all renowned. The two Chan masters Weishen fflfjl and Taichu A
%J] took refuge here. After the branch temples were united, the abbot Qizu moved this
pavilion to another place. It was destroyed at the end of the Yuan dynasty and has not
been rebuilt. The land was lost to non-monastics. Inl632 {Renshen year of Chongzhen),
the monk Jiehuang JtScIJt redeemed this land, and Mr. Chen Xuankui W'Ms±t, a member
2. The East Pagoda Cloister {dongta yuan %^Wi). During the Xiantong period (860-
873) of the Tang dynasty, the monk-sage {shengseng ^ j ' i ) Wencheng JCM built a
wooden pagoda in east of the temple; he then built this cloister. His disciple Hongze ^A
W\ was known for his strict adherence to the vinaya. Of the decline and flourishing
during the Song dynasty we have no records, [i 12b] In 1363 (23rd year/ Kuimao of
Zhizheng), the abbot {zhushan JElil, lit. "mountain-dweller [monk]") Kongji $ $ $ rebuilt
it. In the dinghai year50 [sic] of the Hongzhi period (1488-1505), the monk Tingfu ISM
made repairs. It was later sold to some scholars {shi ren dr A). During the Wanli period
(1573-1619), the monk Zhengpai JEM redeemed it and there he resided. The vice
49
     These three were known for their poetry.
50
     The year appears to be a mistake for there is no dinghai T l £ year for the Hongzhe period.
which read, "Forest of Poetry and Bed of Chan" {shi lin chan ta W"WWWi). In 1639
{Yimao year of Chongzhen), the monk Daozhao xiffn revived it and redeemed its
farmland; he built an Amitabha hall at the old address of the pagoda hall {ta dian $aWC).
3. The Establishing Dharma Cloister (jianfayuan M£fel?l) was built in 905 (second
year of Tianyou) by the prefect (cishi $!] jfe.)52 of Quanzhou Wang Yanbin 3!Mty& as a
residence for the vinaya master Hongze ^LWl so that he could administer the precepts and
grand disciples Luoyan Y&M and Benfu if-Wl both achieved renown.
temple originally had the Eastern Vinaya Hut {dong lu an ^ t $ j ^ ) . During the Dazhong
period (847-859) of the Tang dynasty, [i i3a] the prefect {tai shou ;&CTF) changed it to a
cloister and invited the divine monk {shen seng ?^JH) Bare-shoulder monk {Tanbo
heshang ISjPt^P JRJ) to live here. Generation after generation the vinaya has been
transmitted. Later, the mountain Buddha? {shanfo llll^) 53 Guozhao S'JS studied here.
51
   Normally there were two vice administrators m each of the six ministries below the Department of State
Affairs (Hucker 1985 426-427)
52
   The head of Quanzhou prefecture, akin to a governor
53
   Earlier references are to the "mountain monk" here it reads "mountain Buddha " Could this be a mistake
in the text"?
was its founder, who has been abbot, nor how many monks it has had. The Quanzhou
prefect (zhou mu f\\^L ) Lin Hu #H$ changed its affiliation to Chan and invited Chan
master Changji %sL as its first generation abbot. His fourth generation grand-disciple
(sun # ) Shao'an £§$; and his seventh generation grand-disciple Fashu ^iffl. were both
6. The Western Arhat Cloister (xi luohan yuan H ^ ^ . K ) was founded west of the
temple by the sage-monk Lingyan -^ e" in 848 (second year of Yuji) during the reign of
Tang Xuanzong BLTJK. His disciple Xuanyi m.'S. was a well known vinaya master and his
7. The Arhat Pavilion (luohan ge ^^R.M) was east of the temple. The sage-monk
Manjushri. [i nb] His grand-disciple Weifeng ff=M leader of Fuyan ^m^ was a Chan
master.
8. The Pure and Cool Grove (qing liangjingshe ^ I C f f ik)56 was founded by Wang
Yanbin, the Quanzhou prefectural governor (zhoumu jMffi. ), as a residence for the master
54
   v i ^ ("Glorious Dharma") is short for the Lotus Sutra, thus my choice of translation It can also be used
to refer to the Tiantai school
35
   Huashen, l e mrmanakaya, a manifestation or incarnation body (of an enlightened being)
56
   "Grove" or jmgshe lilir is used to indicate a monastery, an abode of monastics (e.g the "Bamboo
Grove")
4=: ft and Huicheng M$L all achieved renown. In 1175 (second year of Chunxi) in the
Song dynasty, the monk Benyi was leader of this cloister. In 1155 (25 year of Shaoxing)
the temple burned down and was rebuilt. A revolving sutra shelf was built and 10,000
Bodhisattvas were carved on Pure and Cool mountain (qingliang shan fit #S ill ).57
i^h fi^l^). The teaching monk Chuqin Mlft lived here during the Tianfu period (901-
903) of the Tang dynasty. His grand-disciples Jurui S l j ^ and Miheng Wi^f were
10. The Dizang Cloister (dizangyuan i i k ^ K ) was in the temple's Pure Land alley
(jingtu xiang ^ ± # ) . Zhu Hongxiao %:% W, the Tang dynasty military supervisor (pan
jun shi ^ij-lf^ifl), founded the cloister and bought farmland for the monk Xingzhao fxBrj
to live. His grand-disciples Jingbin MW and Yibo SL$i were both well known for
[I 14a]
11. The Compassion and Kindness Cloister (cien yuan M.M.^%) was built by the Tang
dynasty prefect Wang Yanbin as a residence for Chan master Xili H?L. After he died, the
37
     It is not said who built these items, nor any further information about Pure and Cool Mountain.
58
     Dizang [Pusa]- S Ksitigarbha bodhisattva, J Jizo
The Chan master Congyun kkj& became a monk (chujia Lti J|!) here. Later his disciples
Xuanying ~£M, Huaiju W$E and Fahui '&M were all well known.
13. The Flourishing Dharraa Cloister (fa xingyuan S X K ) . We do not know when it
14. The East Golden Body Cloister (dongjin shenyuan ^ ^ : # K ) was built in 838
(third year of Tiancheng) in the Tang dynasty by Wang Yanbin east of the temple. He
invited the Chan master Tingzan iS!$ to live there. Chen Jingtong P J ^ i l t ,
Commissioner of Military Training (xun lian shi \)\\%%\$l), cast a golden statue and
donated it, hence the cloister's name. His grand-disciple Yongning /XT became abbot of
15. The Pure Recitation Cloister (qing yin yuan Im^y^n) was built east of the main hall
during the Youzhong period (904-907) by the prefect Wang Yanbin. [i Mb] Master (fa shi
^ijlif) Wenchao 3tia lived there. He was excellent at writing poems, hence the name
"Pure Recitation." Later, his disciple Wuhui's ^nHft essays were widely known.
Yanbin in the northwest of the temple. Master Shengquan ^~®L lived there. It was called
17. The Eastern Heavenly King Cloister (dong tian wangyuan ^^:3il?ft ). We do not
know when it was founded but at the time of the five dynasties (907-960), the eminent
monk Xingtong frill lived here. Later, there were Ziqi ~ ? 5 | and Daoying iHii| who
18. The Tranquil Cloistering Hermitage (qingyin yuan ^R#>K) was in northwest of
the temple. It was founded by the prefect Wang Jichong ZEM* in 930 (first year of
Changxing) in the Tang dynasty. He invited Chan master Shiji !ifft3& to live here.
19. The Repaying Kindness Cloister (bao en yuan JHURm) was in the temple's Pure
Land alley. We do not know who founded it. The Tang dynasty master Xicen ffi-^1
[1.15a]
20. The Repaying Filial Debt Precept and Rules Cloister (bao qu jie liiyuan ffiM]WL
#PJn). During the Zhenming period (915-920) of the Liang dynasty, the prefect Wang
Yanbin was building this cloister west of the temple but died before it was finished. His
son Jiwu M^S, completed his father's ambition and named it "Repaying Filial Debt
21. The Ancestral Offerings Cloister (feng xian yuan ^-%$K) was in the northwest of
the temple. It was built during the Five Dynasties by the eminent monk Xixia ft®.
22. The Manjushri Eastern Cloister {wenshu dongyuan ^ t ^ ^ K ) . The founding date
23. The Western Pagoda Cloister (xi tayuan Hi-nK). In 916 (second year ofZhenming)
in the Liang dynasty (one of the "five dynasties") the king of Fujian (Min) built the west
pagoda. This cloister was then established as a place to invite the famous and virtuous
[monks] to live. Afterwards, a truly great number of people came to study. During the
Yuanyou period (1086-1093) of the Song dynasty, taishou JS.^T Chen Kang $%M
changed it to a public Chan temple (shifang chanyuan ~f~7j H ^ ) [i i5t>] and invited great-
wisdom Chan master Wenyou JC^ to be the inaugural abbot. The cloister became
dilapidated and was rebuilt by master Zhicong MSil. Later, Zongyi ^K B was well-
known for doctrine (jiao $$.), and Qinglao Bz^; was well-known for Chan.
24. The Shangfang Cloister (shangfang yuan }l7j$%) was built in 957 (end of the
Baoda period of the Southern Tang) by the Chan master Qinghuo ImM as a place to live.
period (915-920) of the Liang dynasty, vinaya master Zhihan ^Pla became the first
patriarch (kai shan Jf ill). Later, grand-disciples Benzong ^TF. and Youpeng W^H
26. The Yushi Cloister (yushiyuan ¥&M$m). We do not know who founded it. Master
Yiying SCM. was from here. His grand disciple Fachao "HM was a Chan master.
[I 16a]
27. The Eastern Cloister of the Sixth Patriarch (liu zu dongyuan / N I S ^ I ^ L ) was
founded during the Shenguan period (938-942) of the Southern Tang dynasty by the area
commander (zhou shuai fWW) Liu Congxiao ^ihK^C. He invited the Chan monk Ruyue
#•-§- to live here. His grand-disciple Zhitian ^;M was also well-known for Chan.59
28. The Medicine Buddha Cloister (yaoshiyuan I5j)ifi[?| ). We do not know who
established it. During the Five Dynasties the eminent monk Daocen iH-^ became a
29. The Resting Hermit Chan Cloister (qiyin chanyuan ffi^?$K ). When, during
the middle of the Baoda period (943-957) of the Southern Tang dyansty, Dong Si'an U S
59
     See Sizhi I 38b for the biography of Zhitian
cloister as a place to make offerings for his prospenty in the world of the dead. At first it
followed the master-disciple hereditary system. During the Song dynasty, minister of
Quanzhou (wei zhou zhi ^J^'H#) changed it to a public Chan cloister. The two Chan
30. The Bodhi Cloister {putiyuan ^$!|?m) . We do not know when it arose. During
the Five Dynasties period, the Chan master Faqian £fel| became a monk here, [i i6t>] He
31. The Tianyou Cloister {tianyou yuan ^ 1 6 |Sm) was founded during the Tianyou period
(904-907) of the Tang dynasty and so received its name. Later, the eminent monk Jisong
was a gifted resident (yingji Ij/lft) here. His grand-disciple Defeng W;)A was also had
32. The Deep Sand Cloister (shen shayuan WtJ?¥>%). During the Five Dynasties period
the eminent monk Weichong tH3§ first founded this cloister and lived here. His disciple
Daohong M^L was elegant in speech and his grand-disciples Weiji ff£ pf and Shouzhen
33. The Western Shangsheng Yuan (xi shangshengyuan j5_t#Ll^). Its founding
origins are unclear. The eminent monk Yuchang i§| H lived here.
Flower White-Robed Cloister. During the Duangong period (988-989) of the Song
dynasty, the Chan monk Dingzhu /Eiit sequestered himself here. His grand-disciple
35. The Fourishing Prosperity Chan Cloister (xingfu chanyuan TSWIWM) was first
named the "Congee Cloister" because the head monk (zhu seng i i f f ) who established it
was the head chef preparing congee for 1000 monks at this place, [i na] At first it
followed the master-disciple hereditary system. During the Xining period (1068-1077) of
the Song dynasty, the prefect Chenshu PJ^H changed it to a public Chan cloister and
invited Chan master Benguan ^M to give teachings (kaifa JF^fe) here. Later, the Chan
36. The Eastern Sizhou Cloister (dong sizhou yuan ^y0$t||?m) was founded by Li Wei
^Wi, a military judge of Quanzhou, in the east of the temple. He invited the eminent
Shouchang ^f 4£ was abbot of the Venerated Site Cloister, Chanjiao M$& and Zongyong
said that there was a leader here who chanted the Lotus Sutra everyday and a dove that
tamely listened. It was later reborn as the Chan master Jiehuan JtSc^F.
38. The Baosheng Cloister (baoshengyuan J3Ej4l?m). Its founding is unclear. Jiehuan
[I 17b]
39. The Guanzhu Cloister (guanzhuyuan WH.^%). Its founding is unclear. The vinaya
master Dunzhao $X'M lived here during the Jianyan (1127-1130) period of the Song
40. The Eastern Seven Buddha Cloister (qifo dongyuan - t # ^ K ) . The date of the
initial founding is not clear. The Song dynasty Chan master Sizu BIB studied here. In
the middle of the Jiatai period (1201-1204), he repaired this cloister. He later became the
41. The Samantabhadra Cloister (pu xianyuan ^ M ' l ^ ) . Its founding is unclear. The
Song dyansty Chan master Zongda ^nii lived here. He later became the abbot of
period (1174-1189) of the Song dynasty, the eminent monk Liaoxing and his disciple
Shoujing T P ^ founded this cloister to use for offerings to the great sage of the West.
And so it was nicknamed the Hall of Amitabha. In 1393 (Kuiyou year of Hongwu), the
monk Fajian £fe!H rebuilt it. In 1558 (37th year of Jiaqing), the Water and Land Temple
(Shuilu si zKPtijTF) was seized by some rich and powerful people (haoyou); p i8a] since
those monks then had no place to stay this hall was given to them as a place to offer
Bao fu yuan f ^ g K, Ren wang yuan iZ3L$K>, Ming lii yuan Bjj#i?m, Wan sui yuan Ji^/
$%, Lii xi yuan # | S I ^ , Zi fu yuan M ? H K , Yanshou yuan M^?$K, Huayan yuan ^f^Wt,
Guang yan yuan %f^^%, Xi fang yuan J57fl5t, Chong jiao yuan ^$Xf>%, Chi ming yuan
yuan ? L ^ K , Puguang yuan ia T^ST;, Bao zun yuan i%W-$K, Bei chen yuan 4kMK,
Chongguo y u a n ^ H K , Lii tang yuan WM$L, Sizhou yuan W'H K, Mile yuan ^ffj|$u,
Mituo yuan 'jfc^jn, Tian gong yuan IR'U^%, Ban ge yuan IfcPSEm, Jing ming yuan i#4§
Wi, Xin luohan yuan iff5?$XRm, Xi wenshu yuan H 3 t ^ l 5 t , Xin shangsheng yuan Iff _t^ti
[I 18b]
Sizhou dong yuan y0#H^K, Xin mile yuan iff^|ft|?m, Xi sizhou yuan H Wi'l'IRm, Dong
mile yuan ^^ffj^jt, Hua dizang yuan ^Eiife^l^, Qi fo xi yuan -tlf^jSK, Lii shijia yuan
# M E & n , Xi weimo yuan ffi^i^^, Hua sizhou yuan JZMMffi, Puti dong yuan # J |
^ |§t, Pu ti zhong yuan # $ | ^ Km, Puti xi yuan # # 1 H K, Lii guan yin yuan WMH$K,
Xin guan yin yuan iifMiif K, Xi guanyin yuan H^JiiaK, Puxian qian yuan ^jStlf $%,
Xi shijia yuan j S # i & | ^ , Dong wei mo yuan SR%$.0$K, Mile dong yuan 'jfcWjlRVm, Mile
xi yuan ^ffjlSK, Mile nei yuanffi\W]f*l ¥>%, Xi dizang yuan Hiife^K, Liu zu zhong
yuan /sl&'T 4 !^, Liuzu xi yuan /NI-EESI?^, Bei tianwang yuan 4b^3EK, Xi tianwang
yuan it^^f^K,, Xi feng xian yuan H$-7feK, Bei sizhou yuan ^byM'I'IK, Fahua baiyi
yuan SH^ fi^cl^, Puti nei baiyi yuan # $ 1 rt fi^cK, Jingtu'nei baiyi yuan ^ ± p^ fi^
[I 19a]
Dong tianwang qian yuan M^KJLM $%, Puti wai bai yiyuan lU/l^b fi^cPJu, Tahou dizang
yuan i ^ j p i i k ^ K , Puti dizang yuan l l ^ i i k i ! ^ , Dong tianwang qian dizang yuan %^K
The Neighboring Cloisters used to number 117. After being united all these cloisters
were abolished (fei j$t); only their names were left. Dim traces of three cloisters still just
exist. These are the cloisters of Venerated Site, Eastern Pagoda and Bliss.
The Mengguan ("Observing Dream") Hall (mengguan tang ^Mlst) was west of the
temple. The Chan monk Dagui built it during the Zhizheng period (1341-1368) of the
Yuan dynasty and recorded this himself. In the middle is a the Xijian Pavilion which he
also recorded. Today, both are gone (fei )%t) and cannot be investigated.
The Western Mountain Pagoda (xi shan ta ffl li|i-p) was five li west of the city. The
Inaugural abbot, Chan master Miao'en, first built it during the Zhiyuan period (1279-
1294). Inside he interred the bones of past abbots in the middle and the bones of monks
in the sides, [i i%] Afterwards, the second abbot, Chan master Qizu, built another pagoda
Elder Huang is also to the left. Beside these was a pagoda hut (to an MM).
The old temple of the purple cloud once possessed vast tracts of land and as many as a
thousand or more residents. Since the Yongle period (1403-1424), there has long been a
void in leadership. The Chan ethos has gradually washed away (min 'M) and the
venerable old monks have dispersed like clouds to the four directions. Those who [have
stayed and] guard it like a "chicken rib," see it as an heirloom.60 Since there has been a
decline in the virtuous, outside donors have stopped coming. While its land is broad, the
people are few. Gossip has arisen. Seventy to eighty percept of the temple's former land
could not be preserved. Nevertheless, due to its solid foundation of good management
(mianzui IrHKX the sound of sutras and the flame of the Buddha have not been
extinguished. Recent years have seen the restoration of the ordination platform and the
dharma hall, p 20a] Fortunately, the main hall has also been renovated. It seems like a time
of renewal {qiri laifu -fc 0 MM.). We should respond to this opportunity at our best
   "Chicken rib" as a small bone with little on it represents something that offers little but people still do not
want to throw it away or waste it. It comes from a tale about the period of the Three Kingdoms and is
memorialized in the phrase "wei ru /i lei B^^P^fltj" ("taste like chicken rib") In 217 CE, King Cao Cao *
til was engaged m a prolonged campaign for Hanzhong JX1^ against the Han king Liu Bei M& One
night over a bowl of chicken rib soup he realized that Hanzhong was like a chicken rib that didn't offer him
much and so he decided to leave it behind
61
   qi ri laifu -fc E3 ^5fi- lit "returning m seven days" is taken from the 24th hexagram in the Yi Jing (Book
of Changes) and indicates the return of yang after a cycle of yin In this case a return of vitality to the
temple after a period of decline
(weilin weitai ^llray^^?). 62 If we are only concerned about old property not being
returned rather than practicing virtue, then, even if all the buildings and property were
recovered, what would be the point of living here! If we can diligently practice virtue,
then even in shabby buildings and old rooms we can still sit cross-legged (i.e.
practice/meditate). It goes without saying that one can live like a snail in its shell, in a
grass hut which can just accommodate a length of seven feet (qi chi -\lR. i.e. a human
body). Moreover, all people have Buddha nature, everyone can shine. Who knows
whether or not another elder Huang may reappear today. It all depends on the self-
62
  Yuanxian refers to hexagrams 19 (lin l|m "overseeing") and 11 (tai H "tranquility") to express different
ways the renewal may proceed
The Purple Cloud has always been considered a famous temple. Could it be the
best in all of Fujian from its gorgeous buildings with ornate eaves alone? Rather it is
from having so many extraordinary and precious distinguished men having nurtured their
virtue and expressed their talents at this place. o T T t ^ ^ M K i i i (Making the Jueguan
Buddha family proud.). Their eminent footprints have not vanished; records from the
past can be examined. Today I select the most outstanding and record these
"Bodhisattvas."
His surname was Wang IE and he followed the vinaya very carefully. In summer, when
he taught the Shang Sheng Sutra Jl^feM (Sutra of Maitreya's Ascent to Tusita Heaven),
thousands of people would attend. In 687 (third year of Chuigong) in the Tang dynasty,
in the orchard of Quanzhou citizen Huang Shougong, the mulberry trees bloomed white
lotus blossoms. Hearing of this, the local authorities2 petitioned to have a temple built.
The emperor assented and granted it the name "Lotus Flower." The local authorities
invited master [Kuanghu] to be the abbot. The place for practicing the dharma was
established and where lotuses had bloomed became the Venerated Site Cloister.
1
  Shi ?$, is used as the family name for monastics, who have formally left home to become sons and
daughters of the Buddha Sakyamum Buddha in Chinese is rendered Shyiamoumfo MM*$-J&\%. The first
character of the two-character word shijia (Sakya), shi, became adopted as the surname for monastics
2
  you i i - f ^ l is used as a generic term for the authorities in an area Such authorities are commonly
prefects or district magistrates (Hucker 1985 587).
[I 21a]
2. Shi Wencheng # 3 ^ 1 1 was from Xianyou {lll^l.3 In the middle of the Yuanhe
period (806-820) in the Tang dynasty, he studied Buddhism in the Xianyuan jlJj^a
("Immortal's Academy ") of his city. He was naturally endowed with knowledge of the
way, like a stone that can serve as a utensil without being carved. In 860 (first year of
Xiantong), the prefect of Quanzhou4 upon hearing of his reputation invited him to come.
When he arrived he began to build a five-storied wooden pagoda in the southeast of the
temple. He put containers at the four gates in which he collected donations; on a daily
basis he let donors put money in and workers withdraw their salaries themselves. It
happened that some who took more than their share became lost on their way home.
Afterwards, no one dared take more than their due. The master's manner was principled
(gaojie itf/p). Tranquil, he kept society with himself. He never handled money and for
thirty years his shadow never went beyond the temple gate. He continually chanted the
Diamond Sutra and his room became bright as day [even during the evening]. His wash
basin was never dry and the water would turn hot or cold as needed. He passed away in
876 (third year of Qianfu). The prefect5 attended the funeral service in white.6 The
master made a final request, "I must be buried at the place where the incense goes out."7
A storm blew in and [i 2it>] extinguished the incense, and the coffin was lodged in a crack
3
  Xianyou {dlff (lit. "wandering immortal") is a district (xiari) which lies north of Quanzhou and west of
Putian W E9 m the province of Fujian
4
  The prefect of Quanzhou from 860-863 was Dou Shigun JgjJfp^ (Clark 1981 381).
5
  Zheng Gongchuo W&*& served as Quanzhou prefect from 874-877 (Clark 1981 382)
6
  As if a member of his "family" i.e a disciple
7
  In other words, the coffin was to be carried until the incense had burned out
birds will build a nest here. People call this rock bantou W^^k pagoda.
3. Shi Hongze #3A!U!] was from Wenling 'M.$t (i.e. Quanzhou) and studied with
Wencheng at the Eastern Pagoda Cloister. In 862 (third year of Shentong), he took full
Qianning period), the prefect (fuzhu JH3L) Wang Shengui10 invited this master to
administer monastic precepts at the ordination platform. In 905 (second year of Tianyou),
Wang Yanbin built a cloister named "Establishing Dharma" (Jianfa M£fe) to serve as his
residence and as a place for him to teach the vinaya. Students gathered here and listened
respectfully. This master lived simply; keeping nothing extra, he sometimes found
himself without enough food to eat. Although noblemen offered him fancy gifts, he
would not accept them. Yanbin wrote a prose poem for him which read: "Don't blame
me for only prostrating here; [i 22a] there is no one like my master in the temple." This
master rarely fell ill. One day, after bathing and shaving, he gave his final
during the Tang dynasty and lived in the Eastern Vinaya Alley (Dong Lu Xiang). With
one shoulder bared, he begged on the streets even in the cold and snow so people called
him the bare-shouldered monk (tanbo heshang H I P P |Wj). He later sequestered himself
on Mount Daiyun in Dehua /jMik. Some people went to ask him questions and found him
sitting amongst debris with a tiger tamely at his side. More and more people sought him
out. Whether they asked for sun or rain, they would get it. The prefect of Quanzhou
(zhou shou j"\\ TP) went to him to ask for rain and saw that he was merely an ascetic monk
(toutuo zkWi, S. dhuta) so without formal obeisance he asked for rain. The monk said,
"Sit outside my liqiao Mtl 12 for three days and there should be rain." On the third day
there was no rain and the sun was even hotter so the prefect in doubt was even more
disrespectful. At noon, clouds suddenly rolled in from the northwest followed by a heavy
rain; the water rose three feet, [i 22b] Alarmed, the prefect wanted the rain to stop. The
master said, "If the prefect comes, it will be done." When the prefect arrived the rain
ceased. The prefect converted the Eastern Vinaya Hut (an) into a cloister (yuan) to serve
One day he suddenly took out his herbal soup, rose, burned incense, sat down,
said his farewells and passed away. His disciples encased his corpse in mud and placed it
in a hall where it became a source of prosperity (fu) for the people of Quanzhou. During
the Shaoxing period (1131-1162) the temple burned down and this hall was the only one
to survive. A man named Chenze WW\ from Jinjiang HSC one night dreamed the master
1
 ' He is thought to have been from India
'" A platform upon which the monk sat when requesting ram
to Yongchun TK.# then you will succeed." Mr. Chenze did as instructed and it came to
5. Shi Changji ^.%%. was a disciple of Zhiguang H? f~ from Jiuzuo fllM temple as
well as a disciple of Yanguan Sfe'g' and Wudeng ^ C ^ . At first he lived with Guangan
r~ M in Fuyang m ffi. He later moved to Nanshan ^ ill. One day, while traveling with
Guangan, he saw that there were twelve shadows behind him so he rubbed his back and
said, "Luckily there is nothing happening, p 23a] Why did you go in the ghost cave to play
with the jinghun M^% (the yang spirit)?"13 Guangan looked back and asked, "What are
you talking about?" The master said, "Such a good fir tree shouldn't be here to block the
road." Guangan said, "That's not the reason." The master asked, "What is the reason?" to
which Guangan replied, "From here to Qingyuan 'MMU it is three or four miles (cheng
fM)." The master said, "The thief s body has already appeared." After this his reputation
spread.
Lotus Sutra Cloister's affiliation to Chan and invited master Changji as its first generation
abbot.
13
   Ghost cave is used to represent a dark and dumb state of meditation.
14
   Qmgyuan is a famous mountain on the edge of Quanzhou city, it is home to many religious sites such as
the tomb of master Hongyi Its most famous site is a large stone statue of Laozi.
15
   Clark 1981 382 has Lin Hu K ^ serving as Quanzhou prefect from 879-880 The "Hu" character given
in the Sizhi resembles *$, but can not be found in dictionaries, so I consider the Sizhi writing a mistake
When he left home he practiced austerities {kuxing i^fl). He later traveled to Yan $&
and Zhao M propagating the Lotus and [Mile] Shang Sheng Sutras. When he returned he
founded a cloister in the western part of Kaiyuan temple called "Arhat." He lived there
and often stayed up all night chanting the Lotus Sutra. Scholars of those two sutras often
crowded around his gate like dust. Upon his death he was buried on North Mountain, but
the pall bearers felt the coffin was unusually light. When they opened it to check there
[I 23b]
7. Shi Xuanyi # ^ a f t was the nephew of Lingyan. At the time of his birth many
small white birds gathered in his family's courtyard and the neighbors celebrated this. In
his youth he traveled and studied; he mastered the sutras and excelled in writing.
Following his uncle Lingyan, he abandoned Confucian studies, shaved his head and took
the full precepts. He went to have his fortune read16 and began teaching the Sifenlu IZH^)-
W (Dharmaguptaka vinaya), the Abhidharmakosa {Jushe iHll?) and the Nirvana Sutra
(Niepan MIS) which he had thoroughly studied. Because of this both laypersons and
monks took refuge under him. Keeping himself in line with the vinaya {W.^S ^.W), he
was pure as ice and frost (K^n^KSf. His one room was an oasis of peace furnished with
pure water and willow twig ^llJI^n^y^KIE/KTfff B . In 880, the beginning of the
Guangming period of the Tang dynasty, the Quanzhou prefect Lin Hu gave the master the
position of Sangha administrator {sengzheng fa IE). Soon afterwards, Wang Shenzhi, the
16
     qiu hngzhan 5Ri*cB8 lit "ask the spirit view"
platform for Tang prosperity (fu tang Is jtf ) and appointed the master to conduct
ordinations. Altogether 3,000 people were ordained there. Afterwards, Shenzhi offered
him garments of gold and silver, but the master refused them all. After his passing, the
prefect Wang Yanbin zEMW built a pagoda for him in which he interred the master's
[I 24a]
8. Shi Shuduan H^^rS was from Xianyou and his surname was Chen $£. When he
was a youth18 he had the ambition to leave the world. He told his parents but they
wouldn't listen so he called out Guanyin's name everyday asking for his wish to be
fulfilled. Finally they (his parents) listened and he took refugee under vinaya master
Weixian at Longhua temple and became a novice. It was not long before he became fully
ordained. He left and traveled around Wu-Yue H^S studying all the sutras. Plumbing
the depths of the ocean of the teaching, there was nothing beyond his grasp. At this time
there was an arrogant layperson in Bohai Wi*M whom the master could always defeat in
debate, thus his reputation grew. During the Qianfu period (874-879), he entered
seclusion in the mountains for ten years. The prefect Wang Yanbin heard about his
practice and invited him many times to come out of retreat. When the master finally
obliged, Yanbin dared not express his displeasure and built the Pure and Cool Grove as
his residence and invited him to be the permanent teacher-in-residence at the temple. He
17
     Previously Wang Shenzhi was designated the King of Fujian (Min wang) see section on Western pagoda
18
     cheng long - a non-teenage schoolboy
knowing nothing of taverns. [i24b] He wrote dozens of volumes (Juan ^1), among them Yi
9. Daozhao iiffp was initially named Daowen M ffl. He was from Jinjiang la £E
and his surname was Wang. When he was born there was a purple aura around his head.
He took refuge, was tonsured and ordained under a master from Kaiyuan temple. Later,
he studied the Shangsheng Sutra and the Weishi Lun f^iRife under master Shuduan and
gathered profound understanding. During the Tianyou period (904-907), he met Xuefeng
Yicun Ifilil?^.^. 19 Yicun held his hand and asked, "Do you have parents?" Master
replied, "If not, from where is one born?" Xuefeng said, "This boy will be a great dharma
master." In 933 (first year of Longqi) of Min, the prefect Wang Yanbin reported to the
emperor and received the title of Mingfu 'mM. for the master and changed his name from
Wen to Zhao. In 939 (first year of the Yonglong period), the Jun Changli H$~K: jli Yu
approval for the building of an ordination platform for the bestowal of precepts by the
master [Daozhao]. In 950 (eighth year of Baoda) of the Southern Tang, he was
summoned by imperial edict which read:[i25a] "Profound scholar of the three vehicles,
19
   Xuefeng Yicun =j ^%-X.^- (822-908) is an important patriarch of the Chan school He was originally
from the Nan'an district of Quanzhou prefecture. He was the dharma heir of master Deshan Xuanjian He
established Guangfu monastery in Fuzhou located at Snow Peak on Elephant Bone Mountain (Ferguson
2000 237-241).
Mount Wutai 2£ a to pay homage to Manjushri. Along the way he met an old man who
asked him, "Where are you going?" When the faithful one explained his purpose, the old
man said, "In the Arhat Pavilion at Qunanzhou's Kaiyuan Monastery there is one copying
seeking there you are going somewhere further." The faithful one said, "I will heed your
counsel" and returned to look for him. Finding him, he prostrated himself. The master
asked, "Why are you bowing to me?" When the faithful one had explained why, the
master asked, "Am I Manjushri?" When the faithful one had left, the master said, "My
local earth god has loose lips." and threw his statue out. At night, the local residents
heard someone crying, "I am the earth god of the Arhat Pavilion. The monk abandoned
me. Will you people take pity on me and keep me." The next day, they looked for him
and actually found an abandoned statue. They built a shrine for him in a small alley and
The master passed away in the autumn of 951 (ninth year of Baoda). [i25t>] His
disciples built a pagoda at Mount Futian ?§ EH in Nan'an M^z in which they interred his
whole body.21 The master wrote 80 volumes (juan ^§) of commentary on the Cheng
Weishi Lun J^Pfii.Rifc. His calligraphy has a Wei f t and Jin la style. The prefect
Zhuquan $ki!k wrote a preface for this work which later generations would vie to treasure.
20
  "Treatise on the Theory of Consciousness-Only" composed by Xuanzang (600-664) m 659 It was used
by his disciple, Kuiji to establish the Weishi sect of Yogacara
He was the vice-director of the Bureau of Waterways and Irrigation22 under emperor
Zhaozong B § ^ of the Tang dynasty. In 901 (first year of Tianfu), the Son of Heaven
(i.e. Zhaozong) made Zhu Quanzhong ^fc^Jfi (a.k.a. Zhu Wen^fc$jn.) the king of Liang
%z. 4 Liang was cast into a state of murderous anarchy. Its army even violated the
imperial residence.25 The master then wrote to the emperor for permission to become a
monk. Permission was granted and the emperor dubbed him Huanwai J S ^ K He came to
Fujian (Min) and asked Xuefeng about practice. With one sentence he was suddenly
awakened as if recovering something he had lost. Xuefeng held him in high regard.
Taking his leave he went to Qingyuan where he was received by the prefect Wang
Yanbin. After some time he built the Compassion and Kindness Cloister at Kaiyuan as
his residence. The master, whether dealing with groups or practicing himself, created
harmony by being just and impartial. He attracted followers from the four directions.
Hearing this, Yanbin [i 26a] had a purple robe and the title the Blithe Great Master iE3S^v
Jlfp bestowed upon him. When his body was cremated after his passing his parietal bone26
22
   shuibuyuanwai lang TKBP^^F^R
23
   Emperor Zhaozong 0 3 ^ (867-904) ruled from 889 to 904.
24
   Zhu Wen would go on to found the Later Liang js # dynasty that ruled much of Northern China from
907-923 Zhun Wen reigned from 907 to 912
25
   Emperor Zhaozong was murdered under the orders of Zhu Wen, Zhaozong was succeeded by emperor AJ
Di the final Tang emperor who was also murdered under the orders of Zhu Wen who then established the
Later Liang dynasty of North China in 907 It was during this period of "murderous anarchy" that Xih took
leave of the emperor for the solace of monkhood
26
   dinggu Tj/j'H'- the top of the cranium
11. Shi Shengcheng f $ ^ ja was from Xianyou and was surnamed Ruan Pic. He
became a monk at Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery and traveled to Wu H and Chu M 28 and
visited all the great masters around. When he returned he went to Baofu i!S:|@ temple in
Zhangzhou to visit master Zhan M.29 When he followed the master into the hall, master
Zhan pointed to the Buddha statue and asked, "What does it mean for the Buddha to look
like this?" The master replied, "Monk, you are also just a flat body WiM" Zhan said, "I
keep one peg for myself." The master replied, "Monk, you are not only a flat body."
During the Tiancheng period (926-929) of the Liang dynasty,30 the prefect Wang
Yanbin built the thousand Buddha cloister and invited the master to be its abbot. For
more than ten years he didn't place one foot over the threshold.31 In 944 (first year of
Kaiyun) of the Jm dynasty, the prefect Huang Shaopo jUt^SM moved the abbot to
Zhaoqing Wiffc temple. The marquis32of Min (Fujian) Wenjin 3titt petitioned the
emperor who granted the title "brilliant awakening" (mingjue 0^^t) to the master. [i26t>]
27
   Served as Quanzhou prefect from 944-945 (Clark 1981: 385).
28
   Wu included parts of present-day Anhui, Jiangsu, and much of Jiangxi, Hunan, and eastern Hubei. The
capital was later moved to Jmhng (present-day Nanjing). Chu included present day Hunan MW and part of
Guanxi P j 5
29
   Baofu Congzhan {S?HM.M (d. 928, J Hofuku Juten) was a native of Fuzhou and a disciple of Xuefeng
See Ferguson 2000 275-278
30
   The years for the period match the Later Tang dynasty rather than the Liang dynasty
31
   me M: can mean both "threshold" and "rule"
j2
   A marquis (hou ffl) was a noble usually in line after prince (wang 3E) and duke (gong •£*) Hucker
1985 225
down in a battle.33 Liu Congxiao ^hk^ll, the military commander of Qingyuan, gave his
villa to serve as a temple named Southern Chan (Nanchan j^]#) 34 in place of Zhaoqing
Students of the dharma followed him like a shadow and [where he was] became a
great seat of the dharma. At the beginning of the Song dynasty, the imperially appointed
governor35 Xu Xiang fl^ffi reported to the emperor and emperor Taizu JK$L honored the
master with the title "Truly Awakened" (Zhenjue Mft ). In 972 (fifth year of Kaibao),
the master passed away; the stupa for him is called "Auspicious Light"36.
12. Shi Congyun ^kkffc was from Jinjiang and surnamed Wu 3k. A student of
Buddhadharma from Kaiyuan's Nine Buddha Cloister, he was pure, mindful and free of
desires. With extra severity his body was disciplined in the vinaya. Without respite, he
memorized the sutras at night and studied their meanings during the day. The prefect
heard about this and said, "In the prime of life and so diligent, among Buddhists where
can one find such a one?" Each month he put away one hu M (10 gallons) of rice, the
master closed the door and didn't go out. He rejected outside invitations and the people
of the city wouldn't know his face. In 932 (third year oiChangxin) during the Later Tang
dynasty, Chan master Shengxun ^ t H was traveling in Fujian (Min). The master paid
33
   This state of disorder ensued the usurpation of the kingship of Mm (Fujian) by the marquis Zhu Wenjin
in 944 See Schafer 1954: 53-56
34
   Would later become Chengtian temple.
35
   The word translated as "imperially appointed governor" is fan M, which, according to Hucker 1985 207,
designates "an unofficial reference to officials with broad territorial authority delegated from the central
government."
   rei gnang if: ft
deepened his practice until tightening and loosening were both forgotten. In May of 937
(second year of Min Tongwen), he passed away with a brush in hand copying the Qietuo
13. Shi Xuanying f$"2CjS was the younger brother of Congyun. He followed Yun at
and early age and left home to become a monk. After being fully ordained he studied
with powerful determination getting his fill of both Confucian and Buddhist studies. His
older brother cautioned him to not let his learning obscure his original nature. He left to
He stayed a long while and absorbed all the master's ways (dao i t ) . When he
Qinghuo fit ir§ as his neighbor. In 970 (third year of Kaibao), the prefect of Zhangzhou
Chen Wenhao W^JCM. built the Repaying Filial Debt Cloister39and asked his father the
commander of Quanzhou (quart shuai M.W) Hongjin ^ i S to recruit the master to serve
as its abbot. Three times he refused and didn't come. Hongjin summoned his older
brother Renji iZffi and told him, "If he doesn't come, you will have trouble." So Renji
took pains to convince him and the master began to set out. Hongjin went out to the edge
37
     Chan master Daoxi M # at White Dragon S^6 temple in Fuzhou.
38
        Hmme^^f
39
     Bao Qu ffifyfj
the master took his leave and made his way to the guesthouse. He went to sleep without
removing his shoes and snored like thunder. Hongjin peeked in on him and said, "This
When he arrived at Zhangzhou, Wenhao lead his subordinates (liao shu MM) to
ask him to give teachings. A monk asked him, "What is the ultimate meaning?"
the purple robe and the title Dinghui. In 975 (eighth year), a white rainbow was seen
outside the dharma hall. He left for Wenhao a poem which read:
[I.28a]
He then passed away. After cremation they collected relics and installed them in
involvement in the affairs of the world. He closed his door and sat. He only opened his
door when the bell was rung to take his daily meal at which time his disciples would
bring him the food that had been offered to the Buddha. He would then close his door. If
Quanzhou prefect, Wang Yanbin revered him and invited him to [lead] the North
Chan cloister. He declined the offer and went to West Mountain (xishan 15 ill) and lived
in a hut in the arhat cave. When he was asked again, the master collected wood for a
pyre and burned himself. He had instructed his disciples to throw his bones in the river.
As the fire engulfed him, one could observe him calmly sitting, counting beads and
chanting the Buddha's name. After the fire had burned the sound of a Chinese lyre could
be heard as his relics flew to the river and became stalagmites (shi xun 5 ; to). His
15. Shi Tingzan # $ | f £ was also known as Zhongyue ^-JSx. He was from Fujian
and surnamed Fang Tf. He became a monk in his youth at Bell Mountain and was fully
ordained at the age of twenty, [i 28b] He visited all the great masters and developed
prefect Wang Yanbin established a cloister for him in the east of Kaiyuan monastery.40
At that time, Chen Jingtong Pl^iM, the Commissioner of Military Training, cast a
40
     This was in 833 according to the jian zhi.
a great respect for the master's ethos {dao M) but the master had become too old. He
passed away in 972 (fifth year of Kaibao). Hongjin hosted one-thousand monks at the
cremation ceremony. Relics were gathered and installed in a pagoda on West Mountain.
16. Shi Xingtong f$tTJ® was from Jinjiang and was surnamed Liu §f. His mother
dreamed of an old monk when she got pregnant [with him]. When he was born a
wonderful fragrance encircled them. When he was young he was never around bloody
food. After becoming a monk and undergoing full ordination his life was tranquil and
simple. He only took one meal a day. He extensively mastered the sutras and treatises
with particular expertise in the Mahayana. Day and night he jiao guan #j[^S without
Quanzhou once suffered a great drought. The prefect Chen Hongjin invited the
master to summon the rain, [i 29a] He predicted a heavy rain in three days, and it truly did
as he had said. Hongjin was pleased and petitioned the emperor who bestowed the purple
robe and the title Great Master of Dharma Intellect ^feSt^Cjffp. He was elected as abbot of
the great monastery, but he didn't accept the offer and left. One day he died while sitting,
free from disease. Relics were recovered after his cremation and installed in a pagoda at
41
  Chen Hongjin PJ^ffl served as prefect of Quanzhou from 962-978. He surrendered to the Song in 978
and he and his sons remained in positions of power (Clark 1981. 141-142; 385).
studied Confucianism, but his ambitions were unconventional. Worried that the ways of
the world would corrupt him, abandoning his Confucian studies he took up the study of
Buddhism at Chongxuan Monastery J l ^ ^ f .42 After his ordination he studied the Sifen
vinaya and the One Hundred Dharmas43and mastered them. He recited the Lotus Sutra
seven hundred times and also read the Dragon Tripitika 4 one or two times. Upon
completing his studies he taught the vinaya and treatises. He knew them as well as the
back of his hand 5 but he still felt they were not the authentic dharma. He left to visit the
great masters. When he met Xuefeng H - ^ , Xuefeng held him in high regard as soon as
he saw him.
monastery treated him as an important guest. During the Zhenming period (915-921) of
the Liang dynasty, the prefect Wang Yanbin invited him to Luyang /^P0. [12%] In 930
(first year of Changxin) in the later Tang dynasty, his (Wang Yanbin's) son, Jichong M.^
succeeded him as prefect and offered him his choice of four monasteries: Shuilu 7KHT,
Qingguo Tm^, Beizang ;jbil and Fengchong MM- Refusing them all, the master simply
built a room in the north-west of Kaiyuan as his residence. The following prefects, Wang
Yanmei 3 £ M ^ , Yanwu JS;^ and Yu Tingying ^ 5 § H all had the deepest respect for
him.
42
   a monastery in Suzhou
43
   see Baifa mingmen lun W y i ^ Hite - Gate to Understanding the One Hundred Dharmas Treatise
44
   M$. I e $ £ P £ X M i the Qianlong Tripitika
45
   lit understand as his fingers and palm
18. Shi Xicen # f f i - ^ was from Tong'an | s ] $ and was surnamed Chen W. He took
refuge at Repaying Kindness (Baoen ijfLU) Cloister at Kaiyuan. After full ordination he
studied the vinaya and the Abhidharmakosa examining them inside and out.46 During the
Zhenming period (915-921) of the Liang dynasty, he began to give lectures. The people
came like drops of rain and the master argued as if building a wall brick by brick (bian
ruojian ling ^if^rMfS) and enriched the hearts of the people (wo ren zhi xin t ^ A ^ ' h ) -
There was no one who didn't feel fortunate and satisfied. The prefect [Wang Yanbin],
wishing there was a larger hall to fit the listeners, soon established a cloister at Kaiyuan
to serve as his residence.47 He lived there for twenty years without stepping over the
threshold, [noa]
Once when some burglars broke into his abbot's quarters he calmly sat without
moving and told them their fortune (huofu ?S?H). At this they cast away their weapons,
Liu Congxiao petitioned the emperor who bestowed upon the master a purple robe
and the title, Great Master Chan Jiao Pflt&. The succeeding prefect, Chen Hongjin,
invited him to lecture on the Xifang Guan Shang Sheng Sutra WiTJM-h^L^k. Moved by
his speech, the red lotuses turned white and the fragrance of the cinnamon (cassia)
flowers filled the air. The master passed away sitting erect in 972 (fifth year of Kaibao)
46
  xianjiu qi zhuan j ^ ^ u ^ f ^
47
  see section for "The Repaying Filial Debt Precept and Rules Cloister " Wang Yanbin died during the
construction of the cloister and it was completed by his son Jiwu and therefore given its name
19. Shi Xixia #ffiffi was the dharma brother of Xicen and had a pure and simple
wherever there were Chan masters. After returning, he found himself awkward in crowds
and withdrew into himself. After awhile he built a small hut in the northwest of Kaiyuan
as his residence. The master did lay up stores of provisions, his stores could be measured
in pecks and scoops (dou sheng -4-;R"). If he was invited to eat he would refuse and say,
"I've already accepted another initiation." The prefect Wang Jixun 1EMM] heard about
his harsh and frugal lifestyle and was going to enlarge his home and increase his
provisions, [i 30t>] He firmly rejected the offer and said, "Don't exhaust the children and
One evening a person with a bag arrived and asked to stay the night. Looking
around at the colorless room, he removed his bag and offered it as recompense. The
master placed it under the bed. Seven years later the person returned; the master smiled
and said, "The things you gave are still here." He took it out and saw it was covered in
dust. The person who gave it to him sighed and said, "This is a man of the Way {dad).
How could gold pollute him?" He reached down, picked up his old belongings, thanked
him and left. Some people asked him why and the master said, "The technique of
casting money is not real, using it will bring harm to people." This demonstrates how the
20. Shi Fazhou f$^jo] was from Tong'an, self-named Juexian "M>$u and surnamed
without an idle expression. He always followed the teachings passed down from his
master. He plumbed the breadth and depths of the meaning of the teachings. Three times
he was summoned by the emperor to lecture on the Vimalakirti, Lotus and Suramgama
Sutras; he suitably explained all the essential points. The emperor bestowed upon him a
purple robe and the title Master Literary Intellect (Wenhui 3 t S ) . [nia]
In 998 (first of Xianping), the prefect Su Hanzun Tii HfH took refuge under him.
One day the prefect came and the master led him in a walk. On the stairs in front of the
main hall they saw some grass below, the prefect pointed and asked, "An old saying says
that a 'purple cloud covers the floor and ordinary grass doesn't grow.' Why is there some
today?" The master immediately answered, "Ordinary grass sometimes grows because
visitors bring dirt to the floor." The prefect was fully convinced by this explanation.
He moved to the western outskirts and in 1023 (first year of Xinglong),48 the
pagoda at Stone Gate Mountain 5 1 1 ill was completed so the master while sitting, said
goodbye and passed away. After the cremation relics were recovered and buried together
21. Shi Zongji # ^ S was self-named Zizheng -JrlE. He was an outstandingly wise
debater. His logic and learning were both profound. At first he was abbot of Zisheng rM
48
     According to the Biographies of Purple Cloud Masters, Xmglong should be Tiansheng Zhou 1999b.39
moved to Chengtian Monastery to serve as its abbot. Not long after he returned and built
a hut at Zisheng. Zhongzhou 4^'H (i.e. the imperial capital) requested him again and
again to serve as abbot of the Thousand Buddha Baolin "^Hl&^&^fc Monastery [i 31b]
because the marquis had strongly recommended him. He passed away in 1066 (third year
ofZhiping). After his cremation shining relics were collected and buried on West
Mountain.
22. Shi Qinghuo #?ft§§ was a son of the Zhang *rfe family in Yongtai zK^. He took
refuge and was fully ordained under master Yan'guo §111 on Mount Drum. He attended
the summer sitting (i.e. summer retreat) under Fayin J ^ S at Zhaoqing monastery. One
night he was suddenly enlightened upon hearing the sound of the oil lantern.
With Chongxu ^W, he went to visit the hut master j ^ ± Qiru fg#P in Mount
Xiaojie <Mr-. They met him out gathering millet. The master asked him, "Where is the
hut master?"
The master said, "I came from the bottom of the mountain."
  Cai Xiang (1012 — 1067) is the Song dynasty scholar-official and famous calhgrapher responsible for
building the justly famous Luoyang bridge He is commemorated with a gigantic statue which stands at
one end of the stone bridge outside Quanzhou today
some wolves and tigers came and tamely interrupted them. The master moved Qiru's
He went to see Shuilong $i;fe ("Sleeping Dragon") Pu M who asked him, "Which
famous masters have you visited? [i 32a] Are you enlightened yet?"
Pu gathered a crowd of people and said, "Master Huo, come burn some incense
and tell the people how you were enlightened. I, the old monk, will verify it."
The master came out holding incense and said, "The incense has already burned,
Pu was very pleased and confirmed his awakening. In 957 (end oiBaoda) of the
Southern Tang, Baofu \^m cloister was established at Kaiyuan and Liu Congxiao invited
him to live there where he began to teach the dharma as Pu's successor.
In 962 (third year of Jianlong) of the Song dynasty, he wrote a farewell poem
which read:
         Gathering together like floating bubbles and drifting apart like clouds,
         Gathering together not as company, drifting apart not as separating,
         The gentleman once entering the city was me.
         Returning to the mountain, today, I am not that gentleman.
live, [i 32b] He found a dwelling with a thatched roof but an insecure door so thin it could
The prefect Chen Hongjin petitioned the emperor who bestowed upon the master
a purple robe and the title "Empty Nature" (Xing Kong). He rejected the honor, saying he
was too old. In the winter of 911 (first year of Taiping Xing'guo), he requested his
disciples to leave his body for the bugs and ants to eat and not to build a pagoda He
passed away sitting on a large rock. After leaving him there for seven days his body still
looked alive and bugs had not invaded so they burned him and spread his ashes in the
23. Shi Faqian # y £ # was from Jinjiang and was surnamed Shi Mi. He became a
monk at Bodhi cloister at Kaiyuan. He received the dharma from Wuyi ^53^ while
visiting him at Longshou Fl:^f monastery in Zhangzhou. The prefect Chen Hongjin
invited him to teach the dharma at Longshou. Faqian replied, "Today, at Longshou will
appear all the Buddhas of the three times arising as limitless apparitions at the same time,
with spinning dharma wheels, all at the same moment. Has anyone ever seen this?"
A visitor came to see the master one day and on the next day sought from him the heart
essence (xinyao 'l^ll). The master said, "Yesterday we met and talked about mundane
heart essence? How can the heart essence be separated [from the mundane]!"
24. Shi Yuchang # ^ g was a native of Hui'an. His learning was broad and his
temperate and self-vigilant. He stood alone and remained aloof from others. He lived in
the Shang Sheng Cloister. His whole room was so clean and quiet that strangers did not
dare call on him. His sole visitor was a man named Shengcai ^ ^ " . One day he invited
Cai to eat with him but he couldn't find the utensils to prepare the meal. Cai came in and
together by the fire the chatted until midnight. Cai took out a yam to share with him and
he was happy. Cai also tried to give the master two jade rings but he would not accept
When people tried to offer him fine gifts he would say, p 33b] "If I have such things
my disciples and grand-disciples will behave like tigers and wolves." and reject them. In
old age he retired to YangyuanffiJM.Mountain. Among his poetry are included the lines,
"When hungry I eat no-name grass. When cold I burn fallen leaves for fuel."51
25. Shi Ziran # f=I $£ left the secular world and entered Xiyin Cloister at Kaiyuan.
He inherited the dharma from Shimen Cong 5 fl 5&.5 A monk asked him, "When
Sakyamuni (laohu iittiR) was born he surveyed the four directions. Monk, when you
52
 Shimen Yuncong 5 fllmlu (965 —1032). Shimen 5 |'J is a mountain in Hubei
26.    Shi Youping # W W was a dharma successor of Tianyi Huai 3K^X.'W54 from Yue
M (in modern day Zhejiang). He was the abbot of Xiyin Cloister. He was once asked,
27. Shi Weishen #tf=1fi, his place of origin has not been discovered. He traveled
everywhere visiting all the elder [masters]. He received the dharma from Ciming Yuan
H 0J! HI55 during the Tiansheng period (1023-1032) of the Song Dynasty. He traveled to
the capital [Kaifeng] and set back as soon as he arrived. Ceng Gongliang H //k^56 said,
"There are no Chan friends in the capital, so how can we keep you here?"
The master answered, "I do not dare say that I have too few who understand me.
 ' Yumen (J Ummon) Chan Patriarch Tianyi Yihuai ^k&X'W 0 Tenne Gikai, 993-1064)
 linji Chan Patriarch Shishuang Chuyuan 5 1 1 S O (J Sekiso Soen, 987-1040)
 ' Ceng Gongliang H ^ JS was a Grand Councilor to the Emperor and a lay Buddhist
Monastery on West Mountain, but he refused the offer. At that time Luoshan 5? lil
Monastery had recently become a Chan monastery and did not have an abbot yet. The
district Magistrate/xian ling of Tong'an Ge Yuan MM. dreamed that the god of Mount
Luo informed him that Shen could be abbot. Shen did not refuse this offer. He went
there with his staff and spread the dharma onto Mount Luo.
[I 34b]
28. Shi Benguan # ^ M was surnamed Chen and was also known as Wuben 3u^.
He was a native of Jinjiang. His mother dreamed a golden figure who gave her a white
lotus and then found that she was with child. When the master was born there was a
purple aura around his head and strange light filled the room. He left secular life when he
was eight under vinaya master De W-- He passed the sutra exam and was tonsured.57
After full ordination he studied the Lotus Sutra, the Suramgama Sutra and the Treatise on
the Awakening of Faith in the Mahayana (Dacheng qixin lun ^fft^Sfn 1&) under Zongji
^ S . One day he said, "This is garbage." He abandoned these studies and went to visit
Chan master Fachao £fej|S. Chao raised a fist and said, "The whole world appears in a
speck of dust. In ancient times a finger could be lifted to enlighten people, how about
you today?"
The master bowed and Chao asked, "Why did you bow?"
57
     Monks were required to memorize sutras, such as the Lotus Sutra.
During the Xmmg period (1068-1077) of the Song Dynasty, the prefect Chen Shu
ESflx converted Congee Cloister to Chan and invited the master to give teachings there.
The Vice Grand Councilor58 Lu Jifu B pj 5£ repaired the Lotus Sutra Cloister and invited
the master to additionally serve as its abbot [i 35a] He petitioned the emperor who
bestowed upon master a purple robe and the title master Yuanjue 111 3^. In 1085 (8th year
of Yuanfeng), the prefect (chaofeng ) Wang Zudao i l E i S 5 9 had him moved to serve as
abbot of Dazhong j^tf3. In 1091 (sixth year of Yuanyou), the prefect (dafu ~j\3zf° Chen
Kangmm PlRJSlI^!;61 invited the master to concomitantly serve as abbot of Chongfu IK^S.
After one year he resigned and lived in North Cliff (Beiyan ^ b S ) of Yongyang 7Xffi. In
1092 (seventh year [of YuanyouJ), there was a disastrous famine and the prefect (taishou )
Chen Shenfu P^fi^c 62 summed the master to help exhort the gentry to lend money for
relief; he succeeded. After he left Mount Luo ^ ill, honorable ministers (gong qing £;
HP) invited him many times to serve as the abbot of famous monasteries, but he never
accepted On April, 23 1100 (third year of Yuanfu) he passed away sitting erect He was
                                                         3
cremated The prefect Jiang Gongzhuo y l ^ ^ f                attended his funeral with his entourage
and built a pagoda for him at Three Sages Cliff (san shengyan £ S | j ) He left behind
58
   canzheng #IE£ lit "to take part in governance" Hucker 1985 517
59
   Served as Quanzhou prefect from 1084-1087
60
   dafu ~)\3K found as a suffix for many titles throughout Chinese history (Hucker 1985 465) Here it refers
to prefect
61
   Quanzhou prefect from 1089-1091(Clark 1981 395)
62
   Clark has his name listed as Chen Dunfu WMi^i, he served as Quanzhou prefect 1091-1093 (Clark 1981
395)
63
   Clark has him listed as Jiang Gongzhu Jl&M serving from 1099 1101 (Clark 1981 395)
his lectures.
29. Shi Kezun # &JM was also known as Xing Zhi f l S . He was a son of the Xu ^
family of Nan'an. He had studied Buddhism at Kaiyuan with Jurei j|f !& since he was a
child. After passing the sutra exam and being tonsured, he went to study with Zhijie H?$st
at Zishou St^f monastery and received dharma transmission from him. He left and built
a hut (lu jp) beside Hundred Zhang Rock (Baizhangshi ]=f 3 t 5 ) on North Mountain
(Beishan i\\l\h). [i35b] Several years later he moved to Moon Cliff (Yueyan B H) at Pure
Stream (Qingxi Im'M). He was quiet and concentrated in thought and action (zhixingjing
yi ifefril"'). He disciplined his body and lived in harsh simplicity. Chao San 4ftWi
Huang Yuangong's Mjctfj mother was sick; he dreamed that someone told him to find
Cliff-dwelling Zun and make offerings to him and she will be healed. Yuangong invited
the master down [to receive offerings] and she was indeed healed. During the Yuanfeng
period (1078-1085), the prefect Wang Zudao invited the master to serve as abbot of
Venerated Site Cloister. His patrons exhorted others to follow him. Into old age, he
remained hale and hearty, diligently practicing without slowing down. He gave all the
30. Shi Ziqi # ^ 1 $ was from the Xu family of Hui'an. When he first began teaching
he could thread many books together; he was especially learned in the Suramgama Sutra
64
     a zhcmg >t is a measure often feet.
that to not understand the heart and be mired in words and phrases was to self-impose
obstacles. So he abandoned teaching and traveled to Jianghuai tLffii [between the Yangzi
and Huai Rivers] where he was called "Religious Man Qi" (Qi Daozhe if M^ ). He
visited Cuiyan [Ke] Zhen ^-^(^J)M and asked what was the great meaning of Buddha
Dharma.
Zhen spat on the ground and said, "Where did this spittle fall?"
The master held his hand to his chest and said, "The student today has a spleen-
ache." [I 36a]
He went to visit Jicui Huinan ${WMl§l and received the true meaning of his
teaching {de qi dao Uracil). Nan was the leader of Yellow Dragon [Chan] and the
master served as his personal attendant {zuoyouzhi tE'ti^L). One day Nan sent someone
to ask the old monk about the three guanyu H ^ i f l . 6 7 The master sternly replied, "Why
65
   The full title is ^vTf j^Mfti^^W      T%%&. Zongmi (780-841) wrote several commentaries on this
sutra and may be credited with enhancing its popularity. It is divided into 12 chapters discussing
meditation It was a text important in early Chan
66
   He is more widely known as Huanglong Huinan H ^ T S 1^3(1002-69 J Oryu Enan) the patriarch of the
Huanglong (Yellow Dragon) branch of Lmji Chan Huanglong is the name of the mountain where his
disciples carried on his line for 150 years before the school died out He was from Xinzhou (in modern
Jiangxi province) and was a disciple of Shishuang Chuyuan The Japanese monk Myoan Esai studied with
the Huanglong school of Chan See Ferguson 2000 371-376
67
   Three critical questions leading to enlightenment, a method favored by Hui'an and known as Huanglong
san guan
Nan passed away, Wuzu Fayan i|il£fe$?! 6 assigned Qi to teach in Nan's place.
        Lecturing in the hall, the master said, "One man has a mouth but can not speak;
                                                            6 9
who is this person?" Donglin [ChangJZong ^ # ^ ^                  heard this and sighed, "Chief
Trainee {shouzuo) Qi is like 10,000 ren ("fathom")70 high iron mountain. Alas, the pulse
The prefect of Qizhou W')"H, Qiao Langzhong # IP "T4, thought Kaiyuan should be
a Chan monastery and invited Qi to serve as its first abbot. After some years it became a
crowded place of practice with people gathering from the four directions like clouds. The
buildings and rooms of the temple were renovated and a full collection of dharma
instruments assembled. The master became anxious to retire. He was invited to Mount
Lu (Lushan Jf^ ill). The prefect of Quanzhou summoned him to return to serve as abbot
of Luoshan %? ill and invited him to open a teaching hall at Xingfu T4?H monastery [at
Some few months later he moved to Dazhong j \ ^ to serve as abbot and then
moved again, this time to Chengtian TpC^c were he served as abbot and lived there for
twenty years. He made changes to the buildings built by [prefect] Liu Congxiao and
patrons were so happy to lend assistance its not known what the expenses were.
   Chan Patriarch Wuzu Fayan (1024^-1104, J. Goso Hoen) was also known as Qingyuan and was a
disciple of Baiyun Shouduan m the Yangqi line of Lmji Chan. See Ferguson 2000 413-416
69
   Donglin Changzong ^R#'^',S.(1025-1091) was a disciple of Huanglong Hm'nan. He was the teacher of
the lay Buddhist and famous Song dynasty poet and artist Su Shi 3>$^(1036/7 — 1101).
70
   A ren is unit of measure about 8 feet in length
Zhaojue Mlfc. He was summoned by imperial edict to move to Changlu -fe^ 7 1 but the
master pleaded he should be exempted due to old age. In 1102 (first year of Chongning),
an imperial edict ordered that every state (zhou jM) should build a Chongning IKT*
temple. The prefect thought that the master should be the first abbot [of the Quanzhou
Chongning temple] and built it for him. In 1115 (fifth year of Zhenghe), he passed away.
Rather large five-colored relics, not to be compared with usual ones, were recovered from
his cremation. Neither his scull cap, teeth, tongue nor the beads from his novice
ordination were destroyed. A pagoda was built on the east side of Wukong 'IfflS? cloister.
He left the Collected Sayings ofWuhui (Wuhui Yulu JEzcinJic) for the world.
           A monk asked, "How was the Buddha at the time before he came into the world?"
           The master said, "A flower in a glazed vase."
           The monk asked, "How about after he came into the world?"p 37a]
           The master said, "Fruit in an agate bowl."
           The monk asked, "Are you master (heshang) today the same or different?"
           The master said, "Kick down the vase, pull down the bowl!"
32. Shi Youpeng #WHIi had the secular name Chengzhi $uL and was a member of
the Jiang family of Nan'an 1^1 fSc. He began as a notable pupil of [vinaya master] Zongji
71
     Changlu Chongfu monastery, where Bodhidharma had stayed.
invited the master to serve as abbot of the Venerated Site cloister. Patrons
could include both physical structures and practices). However, seeing the heart of the
school as the roots and the name and appearance as leaves he began to look into the
One day he paid a visit to Qi 1$ at Chengtian 7$.^.. Qi asked him, "I won't ask
you about your morning reading of the Lotus Sutra or your evening reading of
The master said, "Relying upon loyalty and faith my whole life, today I let it be
racked by wind and waves." He repeated this from beginning to end five times.
Qi approved.
In 1085 (eighth year of Yuanfeng), at the request of the prefect Wang Zudao H i .
iS, he became the abbot of Xingfu ^4?@ Chan monastery, [i 37b] He was Qi's dharma
successor. In 1086 (first year of Yuanyou), he received a purple robe. In 1099 (second
                                                                               72
year of Yuanfu), the former prefect {dafu 3z3z) Jiang Changsheng M^^E.          invited him
to serve as abbot of Qing'guo 7?t JPL In 1105 (fourth year of Chongning), he retired. On
September 11, 1124 (sixth year oiXianhe) he suddenly grabbed a brush and composed a
poem:
72
     Served as prefect of Quanzhou for a portion of 1097 (Clark 1981: 395)
Sitting erect, he passed away. The prefect Zheng Nan fflW13 attended his cremation,
33. Shi Fachao # v £ @ was of the Shi family of Jinjiang |=f £L. He left worldly life
when just a child at Mile cloister [at Kaiyuan]. He passed the sutra exam and was
7ltft> monastery in Yuezhou M'M and received the true meaning of his teaching (de qi
dao f # ^ i t t ) . He returned and lived in North Mountain studying the Tripitika. He had an
iron bowl for cooking and ate once a day. Sometimes he would neglect to notice that the
time had passed noon, and he would not eat that day. [i 38a]
He returned home to take care of his elderly parents. He built a hut and lived
next to his parents day and night for some twenty odd years. The people of his village
offered him alms. A river in the village was an inlet to the sea. During the winter when
the tide was low people had to endure walking in the mud. The master gathered
donations in order to build a stone bridge about 800 Chinese feet long, composed of 130
sections. Six pavilions stood along the bridge some with Buddha images, others with
pagodas all built in stone in order to pacify strong wind and waves. The bridge was
named Beiji Mffi Bridge. Pedestrians remain thankful for his virtuous deed today.
73
     Served as prefect of Quanzhou from 1115 to 1116 (Clark 1981 • 396).
practiced sitting meditation and chanting. He refrained from killing small insects such as
mosquitoes, flies, chiggers and lice. At that time, master Zong TJ?, religious man Jin # ,
and two older masters, Benguan ^Wl and Youling W 3? often came to spend the summer
with him. Paying their respects to him, all of them possessed a measure of awakening. If
people did not share his ambitions, he would not associate with them and even
reproached them to their face. At length, when his parents both passed away he set out
again on his travels with his iron bowl on his back. On his return he passed Zhangpu ¥$.
M, there was a temple to General Chen where people showing disrespect were
immediately executed, [i 38b] Local people in making offerings here had killed many living
beings. The master granted the precepts of a Buddhist monk to the general, which
He peacefully passed away after he arrived at Tong'an 1^0;$:. The day following
his cremation, a white light emitted from the site. He wrote two volumes of Treatise on
Debates of Virtue and Vice (Bian xie zheng lun M^PIEifc) and one volume of
the world.
                                   4
34.      Shi Zhitian # . i f e ^       was the son of Chen family of Yongchun T R # . After he
left secular life [by becoming a monk at Kaiyuan] he pursued ideals of happiness,
tranquility and freedom from care. He dwelt on a cliff and pursued austere practice. He
74
  Zhitian i&'Ms is also discussed in the Transmission of the Lamp It^Sft H l f i S t S which can be found in
Xuzangjmg Vol 78, No. 1556.
the fibers of a cloth. He wrote a Buddhist verse and submitted it to Zong for verification.
In 1086 (first year of Yuanyou), he arrived at the capital [at Kaifeng] where he
was summoned before Prince Xu # 3 i who asked him about essential nature (xinyao
'ti- H ) and he understood. He ordered the four orders of Chan to preside over a
Shengzuo jffJS* ceremony [for Zhitian] and also sought verification [of his awakening].
The prince hosted one thousand monks at a banquet and held a reading of the Tripitika in
celebration. He reported this to Emperor Zhezong 1=f ^K who bestowed a mona Hf ^ robe
upon the master. Prince Duan £M3E75 wrote a verse inscribed in gold: "Bestowed upon a
the emperor who bestowed upon the master the title "Buddha Seal" (foyin iffjEp), but the
master refused to accept it. Members of the court bestowed upon him purple robes more
than forty times, [i 39a] but the master petitioned to have them distributed to other Chan
35. Shi Dingzhu f$/Ei^ was a native of Jinjiang. He studied Buddhism and was also
well-versed in Confucian thought. During the Duangong period of the Song Dynasty
7:>
  Prmce Duan became the next emperor, Emperor Huizong (r 1101 -1125), the penultimate emperor of the
Northern Song A great patron of Song art, he is himself noted as a great artist and the creator of the still
popular Shoujin style iSiH-^ of calligraphy
lived as a hermit in a thatched hut. The master's nature was quiet and withdrawn as if he
had left the bustle of the secular world. Apart from everyday necessities his room was
empty. If a guest arrived he would simply sit and drink tea and when they had departed
he would face the wall and meditate. Prefects had asked him several times to serve as
abbot of large temples, but he refused to accept such offers. His collected works are
called Quhua i ^ ( " L e a v i n g Luxury") and contain, for example, his inscription on the
painting "Water Obstruction" (Shuizhang 7KW): "Waves appear where there were no
waves before; a single person trying to cross the ocean is worried to death." Another is
"Ode to a Parrot": "Beautiful feathers covered by a golden cage, It is clearly rare to find a
throat and tongue like yours. You don't need to always follow what people say, you must
[Southern Song]
36. Zhouzhu #j3i("Congee Chief) is known as such because the record of his name
has been lost. He lived in Kaiyuan's Pure Land alley. The Sangha administrator
appointed him to oversea congee for 1,000 monks. There was a Keeper of Horse Herds
{taibao j$i®) who always used the congee serving utensils to feed the horses. The chief
(zhu i ) put a statue of the protecting deity [of the kitchen] under the mortar to punish
him for not using his power to protect. When the chief was walking one night the god
appeared and asked him to return the statue to its proper place. The master (shi jJrfi) said,
"The congee utensils for monastic use were seized by the official. What kind of
protection is that?" The god apologized and promised the utensil's return. In the morning,
died." The god asked, as he had before, to the statue return to its proper place. The
master smiled and said, "The utensils were our property, it was your duty to have them
returned, what merit have you earned?" The god offered to help in the kitchen by
keeping the rats and sparrows away. The master then returned the statue to where it was
before. To this day people see this god as the king of protection. [i40a]
simple and tranquil nature, untainted by the flavors of worldly life. He was self-
nourished on emptiness and isolation and deeply immersed in the subtle path {dad). He
wrote summary commentaries (yaojie ^M) on three sutras: the Lengyan, Lotus and
Huayan. He can stand to cut through names, appearances and complex minutia to help
people not get lost among the branches and leaves and enable them to know and see the
real Buddha [dharma]. He was really one who could discover hidden treasures. Up to
Formerly at Kaiyuan's Thousand Buddha Cloister there was an abbot who chanted
the Lotus Sutra and a dove that came everyday to listen. One day, he didn't come and the
abbot wondered about it. That night he dreamed someone told him, "I am the dove and I
receiving power from your sutra I have been reincarnated as a human. I was born at such
and such home and can be recognized by a white feather under my arm. Can you pay me
a visit?" The abbot set out to follow these directions to see him and really found him.
His parents agreed to let him become a monk. After he grew up, he became the abbot's
38. Shi Dunzhao ^$XiB closely followed the vinaya and served as a model for
others such that people came from everywhere to follow him; he had ten thousand
disciples. In 1128 (second year of Jianyan) of the Song Dynasty, when he was not
teaching he studied the Illustrated Sutra of the South Mountain Ordination Platform
(Nanshan jietan tujing M ill MM S i r ) and lamented that the ordination platform at
Kaiyuan was in accord with ancient principles. With his disciple Tiying WM. and others
he rebuilt it. It had five levels, the master measured the proportions of widths and heights
himself according to the rules and methods outlined in the Sutra; no guesswork was
involved. Upon completion he remained worried that people might think his platform
was inauthentic, so he had Chong'guan ^M write a notice which was inscribed in stone.
39. Shi Taichu ^JS/®] was also known as Ziyu -f~M and was a native of Wenling
ambition. His poems and essays were out of the ordinary. He abandoned these pursuits
and became a monk at Kaiyuan's Venerated Site Cloister. He disciplined himself with
Buddhism and rid himself of his romantic habits. At that time, scholar-officials (dafushi
Nanjian's Baoen monastery l^^lJ^M was without an abbot. [i4ia] The prefect
Chen Mi W& invited the master to serve as abbot there. Not long after, Zhen Dexiu %
W^ also invited him to give teachings at Dawei ;^C$J. After twenty years he had
The master didn't like to write, but when he did it would be spread by ten thousand voices.
For example, the austere manner of "Remembrance of Chengtian's Monks Hall" was
studied by monasteries everywhere. The man who criticized Cai Xiang's H H "Record
of Luoyang Bridge" for having three too many characters is, to this day, promoting the
40. Shi Liaoxing # T14 was a member of the Huang family of Anxi ;£cM. He was a
good speaker who's specialty was persuading people to build pagodas and temples to gain
prosperity. He never kept funds for himself and always completed his projects such as
bridges and roads. He used facts to motivate people so they responded enthusiastically.
The East and West pagodas of Kaiyuan burned down during the Shaoxing period
(1131-1162) and the master had rebuilt them both during the Chunxi period (1174-1189).
He was assisted by his disciple Shoujing ^ p ^ who was a good talker and liked to joke;
when people saw him alms came pouring in. p 4it>] They had a total of seventeen
construction projects; each one was costly, impossible to achieve through human power
alone.
[Yuan Dynasty]
76
  The reference here is to the Southern Song author Chen Shan Pl^#(c. 1174-1190) who criticized Cai
Xiang's inscription m a large collection of essays, the Mensln xinhva fllUlfliS.
with JJU'H). He first visited all the famous masters and settled to study under Xuefeng
[KejXiang Ifililr nj$f. Xiang held him in high regard, letting him share his seat (fenzuo
ftjM). He later withdrew and lived on Mount Shanjian #JAL, determined to live apart,
administrator Liu Jianyi reported to the provincial minister77 who petitioned the emperor
to consolidate the 120 cloisters of Kaiyuan into one Chan monastery. In the Autumn of
the following year, the master [Miao'en] was invited to serve as the first abbot. Although
he declined, he was not allowed to persist his refusal. Arriving at the gate, he said, "The
first sentence is the first step. If speech is followed by action, the chiliocosm {daqian ~j\
i") will be held in the palm of one's hand." He then yelled, "Don't block my freaking
congregation, "My heart is like split bamboo, straight with no curves; [i 42a] hiding nothing
Another time in the hall he said, "This dharma can not be understood by reasoned
one can find foul language and noisy fighting. All of this can enlighten one's face and
help spread the Buddha's teaching. Too bad, those studying this dao are like the man
77
     Boyan {£ m
The master's actions were always pure and genuine. He disciplined his body and
lived purely and austerely. He worked tirelessly—for forty-two years his ribs never
touched the bed. His speech was unaffected, but people were pleasantly and fully
persuaded. The monastery's dharma was in decline but he restored it to vigor. In the
third month of 1293 (30th year [of Zhiyuan]) the master appointed his dharma brother
Qizu MIH. to take his place and died three days later. After his cremation it was as if it
had rained relics. They were interred in West Mountain (Xishan H ill) and the emperor
bestowed upon him the title Chan master Guangming Tonghui Puji !T~ ty^MM^m^WM•
The master composed a commentary on the Shangsheng Sutra and his collected talks
[I 42b]
42. Shi Qizu # ^ | § . was a native of Tong'an |q)$ and was surnamed Zhang •%:. He
first attended Fashi Yuanzhi 'H^SJG^. Zhi marveled at his talent. After he finished his
Miao'en invited him to assume the high seat (shangzuo J l ^ ) in the hall; he loved and
respected him very much. When the master was sick on one occasion, Miao'en offered
him money for medicine, but he refused to accept it and composed a Buddhist hymn (ji)
which read, "The master's seat is wasting the people's alms. Born a body to endure this
78
   Reference to a folk story in which a man named Yegong who loved the image of dragons decorated his
home with them When a dragon in heaven heard about he wanted to pay him a visit, which scared Yegong
to death
swallowed molten bronze and hot iron, how could one teach people to enter the boiling
cauldron {huotang Wtffi)?' Miao'en held his manner (weiren ^ J A ) in even higher regard.
In 1293 (30th year), Mio'en let him take his place and continue to carry on the
way (dad) of master Xiang. Qizu served as abbot for 28 years. High-ranking officials
and the elite all bowed to him on their visits. Upon hearing of this, the emperor
bestowed upon him the title "Buddha mind, True Awakening" (Foxin zhengwu |$MJ>IE
my
         The master was adept at speaking words of dharma, completely natural and
uncontrived. On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month (laba lit A), he said, "At
midnight, born from mother, eyes suddenly open. Rush down the mountain. Seems like
just a tiny thing. [i43a] Heaven and earth stirred into one heap. "
On the ninth day of the ninth lunar month (chongyang), he said, "Today is the
Chongjiu festival. The chrysanthemums at the bottom of the fence are blooming again.
Everywhere people are talking about Tao Qian MM or Meng Jia ^LM-19 At Kaiyuan we
have nothing to talk about; return to the hall and drink tea."
At that time, the head seat Zhen, who was a talented writer of odes, asked the
master to write an ode to Puyin. The master wrote, "Since the [sitting and] cutting off
[the three times] ([zuo]duan [sanji]^M\^-W) there is no doubt in my breast. How can
the ghosts and gods know where I walk or hide? If there is a world hidden in the world,
79
   Tao Qian (365-^27), a.k a. Tao Yuanming, was a famous poet and hermit who wrote a well-known poem
about chrysanthemums Meng Jia was Tao Qian's grandfather He lived during the Eastern Jm Dynasty.
There is a well known story about him set during the Chongjiu festival Alcohol is present in both Meng
Jia's story and Tao Qian's poem and the festival was a time for drinking, this may be why Qizu says there is
nothing for the monks to talk about and that they should drink tea. TheXudenglu vol 4 contains a longer
version of this story
In the autumn of 1319 (sixth year of Yanyou), the master passed away without
illness at 90. His whole body was interred in a pagoda on West Mountain.
43. Shi Ruzhao ##B'Jin was also known as Yuanming and was nicknamed Lonely
Room (Jishi ). He was a son of the Cai family of Jinjiang. He became a monk under
Daofu at this temple [Kaiyuan]. Fu lead an austere life of good action (karma). Ruzhao
would gather alms for him. When Kaiyuan was united with Miao'en as the first abbot,
Ruzhao was his close attendant. Miao'en held him in the highest regard. He later traveled
about and his inborn wisdom emerged, [i 43b] He achieved deep understanding. He served
as the guest prefect at Xuefeng monastery. He copied the Lotus Sutra with his blood.
When he returned to Kaiyuan he also wrote the Flower Ornament (Huayan) Sutra in
blood. Miao'en respected him even more. When Miao'en passed away and Qizu
In 1304 (eighth year of Dade), he became the leader of the back hall (hou tang).
In 1306 (tenth year of Dade), he was transferred to the main hall. When Qizu passed
enlightenment he said, "A snow-covered mountain, stars returned to the sky—they are
seen at first sight. Why did it take you six years Gautama! Gautama! There is no reason
to guide sentient beings into confusion—in the Eastern land wanting to get to the Western
80
     Antelopes are said to "hang" their horns in a tree as a kind of camouflage to hide themselves.
years and you have not found the mechanism, but suddenly your eyes opened at the third
watch of the night! At dawn you broke through, saw [reality], at once with the morning
star, you reached the ultimate. The emperor heard about him and bestowed upon him the
title Foguo Hongjue \%^.^L% ("Buddha Fruit Great Awakening"). In 1331 (second year
of Zhishun), he passed away without illness. His bones were interred in the Pagoda for
44. Shi Dagui # ^ C z i was also known as Hungbai and nicknamed "Observer of
Dreams" (Mengguan $£M). He was a son of the Liao family of Jinjiang. He first studied
Confucian texts. When he reached adulthood his father summoned him and said, "I have
studied Buddhism but could not accomplish Buddhist goals, so I pledged to offer you to
the Buddha. Don't defy me." So the master went to Kaiyuan with Guangxuan as his
master. After his tonsure he became the attendant of Foguo (i.e. Ruzhao). He held three
different positions up to sharing the abbot's seat. The Sangha Administration appointed
him to be the abbot of Chengtian monastery, but he rejected offer. He built a room in the
west of Kaiyuan called the Mengguan Hall. His knowledge was broad and his memory
excellent.
                                                                           !
          His essays compare with those of Liu $P[Zongyuan ^KTG]               and his poems
compare with Tao pfel [Yuanming $fl$j]. Wujian ^ ^ 8 2 referred to him as the "Flexible
81
   Lm Zongyuan (773-819) is considered the founder of classical Chinese prose and counted among the
great masters of Chinese prose of the Tang and Song Dynasties
82
   Wujian ^ ^ E (1240—1310) was a well known scholar in Quanzhou at that time, he was the chief editor
of a Quanzhou zh JfU'l I ^{Gazetteer of Quanzhou) Quanzhou Wanbao Haiwai Ban (Quanzhou Evening
Newspaper-Overseas Edition) 16 June 2005. http //61 131 47 210/gb/content/2005-
06/16/content 1685237 htm
thought. When he passed away his disciples built a pagoda for him on West Mountain.
[Ming Dynasty]
45. Shi Zhengying #IEB& was nicknamed "Clean Hut" (Jie'an YnjH) and was a
native of Jinshi i^IS, Fuzhou surnamed Hong. In his youth he entered the Three Peak
monastery of Anren z&MZ as a novice. [i44b] In 1386 (19th year of Hongwu), he passed the
sutra exam and was tonsured. When walked through the gate to visit Qian IM at Linggu
JTI^[monastery in Nanjing] the incense in his robe fell to the ground and he suddenly
awakened. He was appointed precentor (weinuo i&M) by Qian. When Qian died he
went to see Xuexuan U$T at Tianjie ^ Jf- [monastery in Nanjing] who made him the
Tripitika prefect (dianzang %W). At that time imperial decree stated, "The sangha of
Quanzhou Kaiyuan monastery, facing disaster, must find a suitable abbot. Through
drawing lots Zhengying was chosen and presented to the emperor. The emperor decreed,
"He shall go serve as abbot. These days it is difficult to be an abbot. If you are too
lenient others will take advantage of you. If you are too strict you will be maligned.
Only if you keep a pure heart and clean self can you endure for long. This has been
decreed by the emperor {qinci Ifcftfc)." Following imperial orders the master came to the
monastery. In the sixth lunar month of 1398 (31st year of Hongwu), he began to give
teachings to a receptive audience of one mind (zhong zhi xiran ^kMmM). He first
things that had been abolished were all repaired or restored, p 45a] In 1403 (first year of
Yongle), after returning from the emperor to Fuzhou all the monastics [in the area]
proclaimed him the abbot of [Fuzhou's] Xuefeng. He rebuilt the Buddha hall, the dharma
hall, the threefold gate, the two corridors and re-dug the Wan'gong pond 7 5 I ) t and built
the Golden Turtle Bridge (jin'ao qiao ikWiM-). In 1425 (first year of Hongxi), he was
made abbot of Linggu by imperial decree. In 1426 (first year of Xuande), the Sangha
administration appointed him as Sutra Instructor of the Left (zuo jiang'jing iLWtH). He
passed away at Linggu. His saying were collected in several volumes called The Ancient
46. Shi Benyuan # ^ M was a native a Jinjiang. Since he was little he did not want
to be around meat. After becoming a monk he studied sutras such as the Lotus and
Lengyan; he understood their subtle points. Once while traveling in Zhangpu 'MM he sat
on a rock beside the path. Every night after this the rock would glow. The locals felt this
amazing and erected a tablet at Linyan. Not long afterwards a governor (si B]) invited
him to be abbot of Kaiyuan. In the first lunar month of 1420 (eighteenth year of Yongle),
[i 45b] he was summoned to the capital by an imperial edict which read, "I have recently
heard about this eminent monk and strict adherence to precepts and his extraordinary
wisdom which understands the profound meaning of the unconditioned (zhenru JiL^O)
and the deep mystery of silent emptiness (kongji zhi xuanwei S ^ Z . ^ ^ ) . So it is with
great admiration that I send a person bearing this edict in the hope that the eminent monk
[Chan] school. I am anxiously awaiting to be relieved, with a heart of the most deepest
The master went to the capital and his answers to the emperor's inquiries were
right on point. He was often praised by the emperor. After half a year he returned to his
Afterword
of worthies the Purple Cloud has had. How could this be so, if it is not an auspicious
place of singular merit {jixiang shusheng 'tiWffiftiO'? It has almost been a thousand years
since the appearing of the auspicious sign of the lotus-blooming mulberry tree. So it was
in ancient times, so it remains today. Why, in ancient times, did sages and worthies
emerge one after another but today they are so scarce, they are no longer heard? [i 46a]
There is a saying that "An excellent feather comes from a ying dragon, a phoenix is born
fortunes of the dharma have collapsed, and the sages and worthies are in hiding. Today it
is not only this temple which cannot reach the level achieved in ancient times! [Sigh!]
But how can this prevent scholars (shi dr) with ambition from achieving the way (dao)!
Only if one relies on the outer elements will the historical moment and its conditions hold
one back; if one does not rely on the outer elements, the historical moment and its
conditions will not hold one back. For example, even though the Spring and Autumn
Period was a time of disaster it could not prevent Confucius. Even though the slum was
day Shanxi) was harsh, it could not prevent Boyi {SM and Shuqi ML-^r- Owing to their
determination (zhi) they were able to sustain themselves. If one seeks personal benefit
and pursues fame, he may work with sustained diligence morning and night but cannot
use the historical situation and conditions to cultivate self-serenity. Such people are
[I.46a]
83
   Also known as Yanhui M 0 (BCE521-481) he was one of the top disciples of Confucius. He
mentioned in the Analects as being content with the barest of necessities in a slum (lit. "shabby alley",
louxiang |ffi#)
84
   Boyi and Shuqi were the first and third sons of the king of Guzhu M'rt(in present day Hebei) at the end
of the Shang f§i. Before the king died he requested he be succeeded by the third son, Shuqi. After he died,
Shuqi insisted the first son, Boyi, become king. Boyi, refused to deny the wishes of his father so he left;
Shuqi refusing to yield also left, leaving the second son to become king. Boyi and Shuqi found one
another and lived as hermits together. When the Shang fell to the Zhou JH, together they vowed to not eat
the rice of the Zhou and lived on wild vegetables on Mount Shouyang. The story ends, however when a
woman saw them one day and reminded them that even the wild vegetables belonged to Zhou they decided
to stop eating altogether and duly starved to death.
IMAGES
       All photos are taken by the author at locations in Quanzhou from 2006 to 2009
unless noted otherwise All scenes, sculptures and temple buildings are at Quanzhou
Kaiyuan unless specified otherwise.
Figure 1 The mam (south) entrance to Quanzhou Kaiyuan (west pagoda in background)
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Figure 2 Outside Kaiyuan's main hall {daxiong baodian) on a lunar twenty-sixth
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Figure 3 Interior of the main hall, four of the five Buddhas can be seen
Note the red cushions used by laypersons during Buddha recitation (nianfo)
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                                                          front platform (Yuan dynasty).
Figure 11: Gilded Buddhas in the main hall
Figure 13: Interior of the hall of the ordination platform; vajra guardians to the left and right
Figure 14: Phoenix figures above Lossana in the hall of the ordination platform
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Figure 25: Booklet commemorating the                                            Figure 26: Many publications, such as
achievements of Quanzhou (Jinjiang) the first ten                               this, examine features of Quanzhou
years after Communist victory (1949-1959). Note the                             history and culture. The pagodas are a
twin pagodas remain behind the new factories.                                   common decorative motif.
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Figure 29: The west pagoda as seen from the east pagoda; main gate and West St.(Xijie) to the
left, 2006
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Figure 30: East pagoda as viewed from the west pagoda; roof of main hall to the left, 2006
Brian J. Nichols                                              APPENDIX III: Images
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Figure 40 Kaiyuan's main courtyard lined with banyan trees ranging from 200
to 800 years old Three Ming dynasty stupas may be seen on the right, 2007
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                                                pillar (1008)                               Figure 43 East dharani pillar
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Figure 46 Benzhi standing next to the Song       Figure 47 One of eight Ming dynasty
dynasty silk-bummg furnace (Jenbuo hi)           "five-wheel" (wulun) stupas
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Figure 55 The trunk of the mulberry tree , 2006                     Figure 56 Statue of Huang Shougong in
                                                                    the Donor's Ancestral Shrine
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Figure 63 Students attending class at the Kaiyuan school To the far left a monk is speaking, a
dog is lying down in the bottom centei (photo fiom Report Book of the school and orphanage,
ca 1929)
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Figure 70: Groups of exercisers converge on                                                                                         Figure 71: stone fencing creates a barrier
Kaiyuan every morning; these are practicing taiji                                                                                   along the southern perimeter of Kaiyuan,
in the main courtyard, 2007                                                                                                         along with the foliage it keeps down noise
                                                                                                                                    from West Street.
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Figure 72: This monk is keeping the main hall                                                                                       Figure 73: Fencing along the western edge
free of disturbances during the twice-weekly                                                                                        of the monastery.
recitation service (nianfo), 2009
Figure 76 Monks stand, kneel and walk during         Figure 77 Laywomen occasionally join the
the morning service                                  monks during morning service
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Figure 81: Up to 2000 individuals participate in the serpentine walk and recitation in the main
courtyard every lunar twenty-sixth of the month. The central gates of the monastery are opened,
free bowls of noodles are offered and the day culminates with this afternoon service.
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Figure 82 The courtyard fills with devotees in                           (renao) on lunar twenty-sixth (in front of
plain clothes on lunar twenty-sixth as well                              the hall of the ordination platform).
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Figure 84 Offerings and personal possessions are                         release of living beings ceremony
placed on large tables set up in front of the main
hall on lunar twenty-sixth.
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Figure 88 Ritual burning of offerings to the         hall of the ordination platform, 2007
spirits of departed kin Those sponsoring the
ceremony are on the bottom right, 2007
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        Figure 90 With my wife Jamie, our son Charles and a group of
        Kaiyuan's monks at our favorite vegetarian restaurant, 2006
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