BMW M10 ITB Kit
Assembly instructions
sales@racehead.com.au
Xinyi Dist, Taipei, Taiwan +886 975 292 194
Taren Pt, NSW, Australia +61 408 608 318
NOTES:
Thank you for choosing an RHD ITB Kit. All our parts and products are designed for performance and racing
purposes, what you do with your vehicle is your responsibility and no liability will be taken by RHD
Engineering for your actions.
This kit is designed to work with a stand-alone ECU configured with Alpha-N, this will always bring the best
results. Do NOT try to use MAP signal for tuning ITB systems. Most quality ECU brands will have no problem
running pure Alpha-N. However some lower end brands may struggle with resolution so a combination of TPS
and MAP is needed at the very least. We recommend and sell EcuMaster products as an affordable high
quality ECU and we can offer support and tune files for all our ITB kits.
The throttle bodies are made to very tight tolerances and have been PRE-SET for normal engine running
temperature. They may feel a little bit tight or sticky when fully closed. This is perfectly normal DO NOT try to
adjust them.
To install and set up this kit you will need an e36
e30 TPS (PN 13-63-1-726-591-M375) and slightly longer throttle
cable we suggest a 318 4cyl e36 cable. (PN 35411162482) some 8mm vacuum hose, a basic understanding
of mechanical devices and the appropriate mechanics tools
Please check all the parts are included and contact us immediately if you have any pieces missing.
Manifold 2 pcs
45mm ITBs 2 pcs
Trumpet set 4 pcs (trumpet, base and cap screw)
Trumpet spacers 4 pcs
Backing plate 1 pc
50mmx2mm O rings 12 pcs
Linkage brackets 3 pcs
M5 drop link set 1 pcs (LH & RH rod ends, brass link)
Coupling adjuster 1 pcs
TPS mount and screws 1 pc
Cable wheel 1 pc
ITB master lever set 1 pc (lever, Idle stop, return spring)
Universal lever 1 pc
105mm x 8mm shaft 1 pc
Primary return spring set 1pc (1 spring, 2 locking bosses)
M6 x 16 bolts and washers 4 pcs
Fuel rail 1 pc
Fuel rail fittings 3 pcs
Fuel rail brackets, cap screws 2 pcs
7 port Vacuum block 1pc
M8 x 25 cap screws 8 pcs
M6 x 20 cap screws 8 pcs
m6 x 25 cap screws and nuts 8 pcs
8mm x 1/8 bsp hose tail 7 pcs
8mm x 1/4 bsp hose tail 1 pc
10mm x 1/4 bsp hose tail 1 pcs
1/4 BSP m/f/f Tee fitting 1 pc
6mm x 1/4 bsp hose tail 1 pc
3mm x 1/4 bsp hose tasil 1 pc
16mm x 3/8 bsp hose tail 1 pc
Idle air patch fitting 1 pc
Plenum 1 pc
Assembly Procedure:
Install the adapter and the TPS onto the last throttle body before you install anything else. Ensure that the
TPS is positioned so that the throttle can move freely from the closed to fully open position. Plug the wires into
the TPS and turn the ignition on. With the throttle fully closed measure the voltage with your ECU software or
a multimeter between the wires going to pin 1 & 2 on the plug. Adjust the position of the TPS so that the
voltage is about 0.5v when the throttles are fully closed.
Assemble the throttles as per the following pictures, leaving the balance adjuster only slightly tight. Adjust the
balance adjuster screw so it protrudes about 2mm towards the J spring. Install the manifolds and attach the
throttles. Install the linkage mounting bracket on the front throttle. Push on all the throttles with your finger to
make sure they are all fully closed, tighten the clamp on the balance adjuster. Next install the linkage and idle
circuit parts and hoses. Install the spacers only, no backing plate, trumpets or plenum for the moment.
Now you can start the engine and synchronize the throttles, you might need to block the inlet of the ICV for it
to rum and idle. Use the outer throttle cable adjuster to tension the cable until the engine is running at least
1000rpm. Allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature before synchronizing.
Adjusting the balance is EXTREAMLY sensitive and near perfect
synchronization is essential for smooth idle and good light throttle
driving. To do this you MUST use a flow synchronizer such as the one
pictured. Measuring vacuum is not a good indication of flow.
Press the synchronizer into each spacer. Adjust the balance coupling until the
flow into each runner is exactly the same. Adjust the cable back down so the
throttles are fully closed again.
Plenum:
Assemble the backing plate and trumpets to the spacers. Make sure the base clamps on the outer 2 trumpets
are facing inwards. Then remove the entire assembly from the throttles. Bolt the plenum to the backing plate
off the engine and fully tighten. You can use RTV type sealant or make a compressible gasket between the
backing plate and plenum but its not essential. Install the whole assembly with plenum back onto the throttles
again. Install all the screws before any of them are tightened.
Assembly Notes:
Study the following drawings very closely they show the exact placement of all the fittings and linkage parts
The small return spring on the master ITB is only intended as a SECONDARY spring to ensure the throttles
close should any linkage part becomes loose or disconnected. A second main return spring is included this
can be preloaded up to a maximum of 180 degrees to add the desired amount of pedal resistance.
For nice progressive throttle action keep the drop link as long as possible. However if your ITB does not reach
full throttle when the pedal is fully depressed then adjusting the drop link to a slightly shorter length and
resetting the cable slack will alter the mechanism gain and will enable the throttles to reach full open.
Make sure the linkage moves freely and smoothly without any binding. Light lubricant such as WD40 on
moving parts is good. It is important the ITB linkage doesn’t reach full throttle when there is still lots of extra
travel on the pedal this will over load your cable and linkage resulting in possible damage or premature cable
failure.
You will need to drill some holes in the plenum and /or backing plate for the Inlet Air Temperature Sensor and
also the patch fitting for the Idle Control Valve inlet hose. It is important that the ICV draws metered air AFTER
the MAF sensor. For stand-alone ECU the ICV inlet is not important.
Crank case breather can also be plumbed into the plenum or alternatively run to a vented catch can mounted
in the engine bay
Brakes:
For correct brake booster operation you will need to follow the diagram exactly! Attach the vacuum hose to the
T fitting provided on the manifold. The booster will work exactly as OEM running from just 1 cylinder. The
vacuum from 1 cylinder is much stronger than the signal from the vacuum accumulator block! It is essential
that the small plastic 1-way valve fitted to the factory booster line is maintained.
DO NOT connect the booster line to the vacuum block!
Happy motoring