2020

NOV & DEC

No. 102

QUICK CITY TOUR FUN TRIP PLAN

EXPLORING CENTRAL KAOHSIUNG CITY OLD AND NEW PLACES TO VISIT
IN TAINAN CITY

EASY HIKING
MATCHA MOUNTAIN IN
YILAN’S JIAOXI TOWNSHIP

clin g
icy
B in Taiwan
Best Bike Routes
Renting Public City Bikes
Annual Cycling Festival

Android iOS
 PAH JI HUE`

Shop: No. 101, Sec. 2, Huilai Rd.,

Xitun Dist., Taichung City
( 台中市西屯區惠來路二段 101 號 )
(1F of National Taichung Theater)
Hours: 11:30~21:00
Tel: (04) 2314-8259

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 PUBL ISHER 'S NOTE

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler,

Taiwan and her offshore islands offer a veritable cornucopia of scenic cycling options and this land is home to
some of the world’s premier bike-maker brands (with Giant and Merida the king and queen, respectively). There
is therefore little wonder why this nation of island people has developed a passion for two-wheeled self-powered
adventure on road and trail over the past few decades.
In 2020, Taiwan’s international tourism-promotion focus has been on hiking and green tourism, and in
2021 the spotlight will shift over to another draw directly related, cycling. In this issue we give you a taste of
what’s to come with all types of useful info on matters cycling, from a general overview down to specific route
recommendations and descriptions.
Tire pressure checked? Seat adjusted? Brakes checked? Helmet on and fastened? OK, let’s head on out!

First, our overview. In our feature article our writer describes how the term “Bicycle Kingdom” has changed
in meaning from recognition of Taiwan’s bike-manufacturing prowess to capturing how this has become a
place with a wondrous network of easy-access bike paths. We then take you on a quick tour of this network,
presenting some of the best cycling options in the north and south, east and west, and offshore.
In the second main article we cover the rich calendar of annual cycling events, which has everything
needed to set your cycling-loving heart racing, from serious races to family-fun leisure excursions, all designed
to highlight the incredible tapestry of different scenic beauties.
Then, in our third bicycle-related article, our focus shifts to city cycling using the extensive system of public
shared-bike rentals.

In Fun Trip Plan our time is spent in the heart of the old, cultured, laid-back city of Tainan. In recent years
this bastion of traditional culture, rich with shrines and other important historic sites, has developed a strong
hipster aesthetic expressed in old buildings repurposed as galleries, cafés, and homestays.
Our Quick City Tour page allotment is spent further south, in the city of Kaohsiung, with a whirlwind look
at some of this broad-shouldered harbor city’s best attractions.
And in Easy Scenic Trails it’s off along the wonderfully scenic Marian Hiking Trail in the low mountains of
Yilan County on the Northeast Coast.

Whatever your preference, traveling by self-pedal, on foot, or by other means, Taiwan has got just what you
want. Enjoy!

CHANG, SHI-CHUNG
DIRECTOR GENERAL
TOURISM BUREAU,
MOTC, R.O.C.

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 01
 10

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02 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
Contents
36

08 08 10
TAIWAN YEAR BICYCLING
OF MOUNTAIN CONQUERING TAIWAN ON
TOURISM TWO WHEELS
Options Almost Without
SNOW MOUNTAIN AND ALISHAN Limit in the “Bicycle
Kingdom”
Taiwan’s Second Highest Peak
and One of the Most Popular
Scenic Areas on the Island

24 24
01 BICYCLING
PUBLISHER'S NOTE THE TAIWAN CYCLING FESTIVAL
The Overseas Traveler’s Healthiest Portal to

04
Taiwan’s Scenic and Cultural Beauties

TAIWAN TOURISM EVENTS 30

06 BICYCLING
TRAVEL NEWS CYCLING IN THE CITIES
Taking Advantage of Public Bike Rental

07
Systems in Taiwan

CULTURE AND ART

36
23 QUICK CITY TOUR
CONVENIENT TRAVEL
TOURING KAOHSIUNG
A Quick Look at Some of the Harbor City’s
Best Attractions

44

38 44
FUN TRIP PLAN EASY SCENIC TRAILS
RICH CULTURE, NEW AESTHETICS MATCHA MOUNTAIN
There Has Never Been a Better A Popular Hike in Yilan’s Jiaoxi Township
Time to Visit Tainan

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 03
TA I WA N TOUR ISM E V ENTS

November

THE OLD YEAR ENDS, |

January
Taiwan Tourism Events
Calendar Website

THE NEW ONE STARTS

Christmas and New Year Season in Taiwan

TAIPEI CITY
December 20

TAIPEI MARATHON
臺北馬 拉 松
Just a few days before Christmas, which in Taipei
means mild temperatures that are perfect for road
running, the Taipei Marathon takes place in the heart of
the capital. This is for many local athletes the highlight
of the annual race calendar, and entry slots can be
hard to come by, with the number of participants in
the full marathon limited to 8,000 runners; 20,000 are
allowed to run the half-marathon. The races start and
end at Taipei City Hall, with the route following along
some of the city’s main thoroughfares.
www.taipeicitymarathon.com

Photo courtesy of Taipei Road Running Association

TAIPEI CITY CHIAYI COUNTY

December 31 January 1

NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION ALISHAN SUNRISE IMPRESSION

臺北 最 H I G H 新年 城 - 跨 年晚會 CONCERT 阿里山日出印象音 樂 會
Around the world, the New Year’s Eve end of the year is celebrated Where do you want to see the first rays of the sun in the year
with a countdown and fireworks, and Taiwan is no exception. The 2021? How about at one of the most famous sunrise-viewing
most spectacular of these pyrotechnic shows on the island is spots in Taiwan? Visitors take the Alishan Forest Railway to the
without a doubt the one that makes the sky-reaching Taipei 101 Zhushan sunrise-viewing platform inside the Alishan National
tower erupt in a sea of sparkling and exploding lights. The fireworks Forest Recreation Area each day of the year, but perhaps the
display is accompanied by a high-tech LED display on one of the best day to go is January 1st. To celebrate the occasion, and to
giant faces of the city’s towering landmark. Throughout the evening warm up the visitors who go on this most likely cold predawn
lead-up to the spectacular, the crowds are entertained by some of outing, a live classical-music concert has been staged each year
the best-known and most popular local music artists. since 2002.
www.travel.taipei www.ali-nsa.net

Photo courtesy of Taipei 101 Observatory Photo by Lin Rui-juan

04 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 NOV EMBER- JA NUA RY

TAIPEI CITY
November 1 ~ 30

LOVING IN GUANDU
– FLOWERING YOUR
HAPPINESS
愛 戀 關 渡—花 現 幸 福
The Taipei City Government is cooperating
with businesses in the Guandu Plain area
on the northern bank of the Keelung River,
staging a flower festival during the month
of November. During this time of the year,
flower lovers come here to enjoy fields filled
with strikingly colorful flowers, including the
garden cosmos, sulfur cosmos, zinnia, and
sunflower. You can also see the beautiful
G u a nyin M o u nt a i n a n d th e m a g nif i c e nt
D a tu n a n d Q i x i n g m o u n t a i n s i n t h e f a r
distance. With the bikeway along the
Keelung River passing right by the fields,
combining flower gazing with a YouBike
bicycle jaunt is highly recommended. During
the time of the festival you can also take
advantage of a shuttle bus service between
MRT Qilian Station and the flower fields. Photo courtesy of Public Works Department, Taipei City Government

AROUND TAIWAN
Late February ~ Early March
Photo courtesy of Tourism Bureau, Kaohsiung City Government

LANTERN FESTIVAL EVENTS

燈 會活動

Among the numerous Lantern Festival events

staged each year, the Taiwan Lantern Festival
is the largest in scale and the most important.
Each year a different city or county serves as
host, the honors going to Hsinchu City in 2021.
The cities of Taipei and Kaohsiung have their
own grand annual Lantern Festival events. For
the 2020 edition, the venues in Taipei were the
Ximending/Nor th Gate area in the city’s west
and the area around Nangang Station in the
east. The Kaohsiung event has traditionally been
staged on the banks of the Love River, with
lanterns displayed beside the riverside paths
that are popular with romance-seeking visitors
throughout the year. The small town of Yanshui
(old name: Yuejin), in Tainan City, is best known
for its annual beehive fireworks festival. The
Yuejin Lantern Festival, lesser known but equally
attractive, is a beautiful and much more peaceful
affair. You can go on romantic walks through
a park and mar vel at color ful and beautifully
shaped lanterns floating peacefully on the waters
of the town’s river.

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 05
 TR AV EL NE WS

NEWS
& Events around Taiwan

Photo courtesy of Foodie Market Photo courtesy of Keelung City Government

HEPING ISLAND CRUISES IN KEELUNG

Heping Island is well known for its beautiful shoreline festooned
NEW NIGHT MARKET IN TAICHUNG with unique rock formations. There is now a more interesting way to
get there from the Keelung Railway Station area: taking the "Water
There are numerous tantalizing options for spending an evening in Road" service. Twice a day, at 9:30am and 1pm, boats travel from
a night market in Taichung City. The Foodie Market, located in the a pier near the Maritime Plaza to Zhengbin Harbor on the south
Yizhong Street shopping area 5 minutes on foot from the Chong Yo side of Heping Island. Tickets (NT$1,299) include the boat trip, tour
Department Store, is the latest addition to the scene. The market guide (Chinese language), admission to Heping Island Park, and
comprises a small gathering of stalls plus wooden tables and benches meal vouchers (selected eateries on the island). Online reservation
in a pedestrian area, the vendors selling both local and international is required. The boat trip allows you to take a closer look at the
snack foods. The location has a clean and stylish feel, with strings of giant ships (cruise liners) and harbor facilities, including the Agenna
light bulbs overhead giving the market a warm and romantic touch. Shipyard Ruins.

www.facebook.com/FoodieMarketYimin/ keelung.welcometw.com/tour/EnNe (Chinese)

MICHELIN FOOD GUIDE NOW INCLUDES NEW TAIWAN TOURIST SHUTTLE ROUTE
TAICHUNG Conveniently connecting major transportation hubs with tourist
The Michelin Guide Taipei made quite a stir in Taiwan when it was attractions around Taiwan, the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle network is still
first published in 2018. Dining is the number one pastime on the growing. The latest addition is the "Yilan Northeast Coast Route" in
island, and finding good places to enjoy fine meals is constantly the far north of Yilan County. The route connects the fishing village
on the mind of ever y local gourmet and gourmand. While the of Shicheng with the hot-spring town of Jiaoxi, following closely
second edition in 2019 saw the addition of more starred restaurants the scenic Pacific coast. Taking a slow train is a good choice to
and Bib Gourmand selections (including highly popular night- explore this part of the island as well, but the new bus route has
market vendor s) in Taipei, the 2020 guide's scope has been the advantage of taking you even closer to some of the attractions,
expanded significantly, now also featuring select dining options including the Beiguan Tidal Park and Daxi Fishing Harbor. Buying a
in Taichung, Taiwan's second-largest city. Apart from restaurants day ticket allows you to hop on and off the buses unlimited times,
and night market vendors, the guide also includes a list of quality and you will also enjoy discounts when making purchases at some
accommodation options in Taipei (14 hotels) and Taichung (3). businesses along the way. Plans are to extend the route further north
Instead of stars, the hotels are rated with house icons, ranging from in the future to connect it to the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle's Gold Fulong
one house ("quite comfortable") to five ("luxurious"). Shuttle Bus route.

guide.michelin.com/tw/en/ www.taiwantrip.com.tw

06 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 CULTURE A ND A R T

CULTURE
Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings
Because of the COVID-19 situation, performance schedules are in a state of flux; please check official websites for confirmation.

July 22 ~ February 28 Until March 14

EXPLORING THE FANTASY EARTH: PARASITE: X-FILES

EXTINCTION, REBIRTH AND THE 寄生：X 檔 案

DREAMLAND OF THE FUTURE

時空 探 秘：滅 絕、新 生與未 來 幻 境 特展
This is a highly intriguing
This special exhibition explores the rise and extinction of species in exhibition focused on the
the distant past, including dinosaurs living in the Jurassic Period, and relationships between
the possibility of a sixth mass extinction caused by climate change hosts and parasites.
and man-made impacts on the environment. By using a theater- Drawing inspiration from
style integration of real and virtual exhibition spaces along with the natural world, such as
immersive and interactive experiences, visitors are led on a sensory the interactions between
journey through time and space to learn about the extinction of deep-sea creatures,
ancient organisms, the modern-day devastation of the Earth, and the five artists explore
importance of environmental conservation and sustainability. parasitic relationships
in human societies and,
going a step further,
ask questions about the
way humans think and
behave, how memories
are created, and how
beliefs regarding
technology and
machines are formed.

National Museum of Natural Science [Taichung City] The Pier-2 Art Center [Kaohsiung City]
web2.nmns.edu.tw/ pier2.org

Until December 13 Until December 31

UNEVEN HORIZONS: 1957-1983 THE THE TREND OF SNUFF BOTTLES FROM

INTERNATIONALIST TAIWANESE THE QING COURT 士拿乎 —清宮鼻煙 壺 的 時尚風 潮
PRINTMAKING
不均 的 平面：19 5 7-19 8 3 面向國 際 的臺灣 版 畫 During the reign
of emperor Kangxi
In this exhibition, Taiwan’s cultural and
(1654~1722), inhaling
artistic development from the late 1950s
snuff became a favorite
to the early 1980s is explored by example
indulgence at the Qing
of printmaking. With the West seen as
court. In contrast to the
playing the leading role in the realm of
West, where the practice
culture and art at the time, artists outside
originated, the nobility
the Western world, including in Taiwan,
in China did not use
sought to keep pace, and one key genre
cases but elaborately
used was printmaking. Presented in this
crafted snuff bottles. This
exhibition are works by 14 Taiwanese
exhibition presents some
artists, showing their perceptions and
of the best pieces from the
responses to the outside world. In
museum’s vast snuff bottle
addition, a number of Pablo Picasso’s
collection from the Qing
original prints that were exhibited in
Dynasty, among them
Taiwan in 1975, as well as lithographs
artworks made of ivory
of life sketches by Austrian painter Gustav Klimt purchased by the
and bone, metal and glass,
museum for preliminary research on future exhibitions, are on display
porcelain, and even gourd.
as external segments of the exhibition.

Tainan Art Museum (Building 2) [Tainan City] National Palace Museum [Taipei City]
www.tnam.museum www.npm.gov.tw

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 07
TA I WA N Y E A R OF M O U NTA IN TO U R ISM

SNOW MOUNTAIN
AND TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

Taiwan’s Second Highest Peak

ALISHAN and One of the Most Popular

Scenic Areas on the Island

Hikers on the way to Snow Mountain

M
ountaineers on a quest to conquer the highest peaks
and bag the most spectacular mountain vistas around
the world are in for a treat when visiting Taiwan. The
crown of Taiwan’s towering peaks is Jade Mountain (Yushan),
and the second highest is Snow Mountain (Xueshan). Both are
conveniently accessed, and easy to climb for experienced hikers.
For those who think Jade Mountain is perhaps beyond their grasp,
Snow Mountain is a great alternative.

Indigenous delicacies

08 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 TA I WA N Y E A R OF M OU NTA IN TOU R ISM

Snow Mountain
The hike to Snow Mountain starts on the northwest side of the Wuling
Farm, a high-mountain farm that is a great place to visit and stay for a day
or two. Many hikers spend a night in the Qika Cabin (2,460m), which
can be reached in one hour from the trailhead (2,140m) by following a
well-maintained path through coniferous forest. A walk of about five hours
brings you to the next mountain hut, the 369 Cabin (3,100m). You’ll
soon be presented with impressive mountain scenery, which many hikers
savor while resting at the Kupo Viewing Platform (“kupo” means “slope
that makes you cry,” hinting at the steep section ahead). The next popular
Alishan forest rest stop is the Snow Mountain East Peak (3,150m), from which you
have more marvelous 360-degree views. The last section of the hike, which
brings you all the way up to the Snow Mountain Main Peak (3,886m),
involves walking first through a dark pine tree forest and then up one side
of a glacial cirque. The breathtaking views from the main peak make the
effort hiking up Taiwan’s second-highest mountain well worthwhile.
For more information, visit the Shei-pa National Park website at:
www.spnp.gov.tw.

Alishan
When tourists talk about visiting Alishan, they often mean the Alishan
Church in Xinmei National Forest Recreation Area, which is just a small part of Alishan
National Scenic Area. While the forest recreation area is popular with
tourists who come to take a train on the Alishan Forest Railway, there is
much more to do and see elsewhere in the national scenic area, including
experiencing the fascinating culture of the indigenous Tsou tribe.
From the forest recreation area, it’s a 15min drive along Provincial
Highway 18 to the start of the Tefuye Historic Trail. This 6.5km-long
trail was blazed by the indigenous Tsou tribe centuries ago to facilitate
hunting in the mountain forests. During the Japanese colonial era
(1895~1945) the first section of the trail was transformed into a narrow-
gauge railway used for logging. Some of the rails and sleepers are still in
place. The latter section is steeper but also easy to walk, thanks to well-
Alpine vegetation
maintained wooden steps leading uphill.
If you want to experience the culture of the Tsou people up close,
there are numerous places to visit, including the YuYuPas cultural park
(www.yuyupas.com), which is dedicated to the preservation and promotion
ENGLISH AND CHINESE of Tsou tribe culture. If you want to visit and stay in a Tsou tribe village,
369 Cabin 三六九山莊
Alishan Forest Railway (Garage Park)
head to the village of Laiji in the northern Alishan Township, or the three
阿里山森林鐵路 ( 車庫園區 ) villages of Shanmei, Xinmei, and Chashan in the southern part.
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area For more info about the A lishan National Scenic Area, visit:
阿里山國家森林遊樂區 www.ali-nsa.net.
Alishan National Scenic Area 阿里山國家風景區
Chashan 茶山
Chiayi Old Prison 嘉義舊監獄
Chiayi Park 嘉義公園 Chiayi
Hinoki Village 檜意森活村 Alishan is located in Chiayi County, and most travelers visiting the
Jade Mountain 玉山
scenic area will travel through flatland Chiayi on their way to or from the
Kupo Viewing Platform 哭坡觀景台
Laiji 來吉 mountains. If you have time for one tourist attraction in Chiayi, make it
Lantan Reservoir 蘭潭水庫 the Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum (south.npm.gov.
Qika Cabin 七卡山莊 tw). Located about 15km west of central Chiayi City, the museum was
Shanmei 山美 opened in 2015, and in contrast to the National Palace Museum in Taipei,
Snow Mountain 雪山
Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum
where the focus is mainly on ancient Chinese artifacts and artworks from
國立故宮博物院南部院區 the Qing imperial collection, the mission of the southern branch is to
Sun-Shooting Tower 射日塔 present ancient treasures from around Asia.
Tefuye Historic Trail 特富野古道 Among tourist attractions within Chiayi City are Chiayi Park, home
Wuling Farm 武陵農場
to the Sun-Shooting Tower, Hinoki Village, and the Alishan Forest
Xinmei 新美
YuYuPas 優遊吧斯 Railway Garage Park, Chiayi Old Prison, and Lantan Reservoir.
Zhushan 祝山 For more info about Chiayi City, visit travel.chiayi.gov.tw.

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 09
B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

Conquering Taiwan
on Two Wheels
Options Almost Without Limit in the “Bicycle Kingdom”

TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE
PHOTOS R AY CH A NG , AS K A CHI , CHE N CHE NG - KUO, V I S ION

Taiwan’s wondrous range of landscapes – sculpted by nature, sculpted by man,

sculpted by the two working together – is often what creates the most powerful
memories among international visitors. A new travel trend in recent years is that
more and more overseas travelers are coming specifically to explore these landscapes
on bike outings from short and relaxed to ambitious (round the island), taking
advantage of the first-rate cycling network that has been built up over the past two
decades. Whichever sites you’ve set your sights on adding to your bucket list, the
bicycle can now be made core to your Taiwan experience.

BROWN AVENUE
Arguably the most popular scenic bike route in
all of Taiwan, especially attractive when the rice
fields are a golden brown right before the harvest

10 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 11
B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

T
he moniker “Bicycle Kingdom”
was attached f irmly to Taiwan
in the 1980s, during the Taiwan
Economic Miracle period, when
t he isla nd bec a me t he g loba l
le a der i n c hu r n i n g out bi ke s
a n d t h e “ M a d e i n Ta i w a n ”
label established a presence
on roads and bikeways around the globe. However,
counterintuitively, cycling in Taiwan was not common,
primarily the domain of youngsters, oldsters, and a small
cadre of eccentric hobbyists.
Those days have ridden off into the dustbin of
history. Interest in cycling for pleasure and/or exercise
TAIPEI
has exploded in the past two decades. Present the term Tamsui River Riverside Bike Paths
“Bicycle Kingdom” to a local today and they think of the
thousands of kilometers of bike lanes on roadways and Taipei’s riverside bikeway system circles the city, taking riders along four
dedicated pathways on the main island and many offshore different rivers. Bike-rental services are available at numerous points
islands, the army of quality inexpensive rental stations along the system, which has a total of 111km of paths, mostly located in
set up wherever people gather in number for recreational the city’s well-developed riverside parks (one non-riverside section, on
cycling, and the heavy schedule of competitive bike races the city’s east, travels through a more grade-challenging hilly area). The
and family-friendly leisure-cycling mass gatherings that system also interconnects with riverside bikeways that take you deep
fill up the calendar each year. This network has now into the surrounding region, including up to the north coast.
become a part of Taiwan’s international tourism brand, Foreign expatriates and tourists especially like the Tamsui River
resulting in overseas travelers specially targeting it for stretch from Dadaocheng Wharf to Longshan Riverside Park,
cycling-centered vacations. because the city’s west side was the first developed in the Chinese
Elsewhere in this issue (see page 24) we’ve a special imperial era and the start and end points give direct access to two of
introduction to the calendar of large-scale cycling events, Taipei’s oldest districts, the Wanhua and Dadaocheng neighborhoods.
with a focus on the sprawling annual Taiwan Cycling Dadaocheng Wharf is one of the city’s most popular cycling-start
Festival, which encompasses outings all across the country. points. There are multiple bike-rental operations here (bikes can be
In this article we present you with a quick-paced overview dropped off elsewhere along the system), plus a plethora of cargo-
of the superb bike network by heading out on sample day- container food and drink stands – even a few with bar service. This has
outings in the north/west/south/east of the main island made the wharf area a nighttime hotspot, with many coming out for
and on selected offshore islands quickly reached from the rides to take advantage of the cool evening breezes, finished with a bite
main island by plane or ferry. and a beverage in the well-lit core area.

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 B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

OLD QUARTERS
From the bike path along the Tamsui River you can easily make a side excursion into
Wanhua District, known for old temples, narrow alleys, and traditional Taiwanese food

Wanhua
Longshan R iverside Park gives immediate access to
Wanhua District. The first urban settlement in the
Taipei Basin taken up by today’s Taipei City grew here,
as a riverport town where the Dahan and Xindian rivers
meet to form the Tamsui. Many locals prefer the name
Bangka, the original Taiwanese name (you’ll commonly
see “Bangka” or a variant used in English signage in the
district), which was a rendering of the word for “canoe”
in the local native language. Natives paddled here from
all around the Taipei Basin to trade. Today the old
district, rich in historical architecture, proudly maintains
many elements of the traditional Taiwanese lifestyle.
The heart of the community is the large and busy
Ba ngk a L ongsha n Temple, founded in 1738. Its
surrounding area is filled with old-time markets and
family-run shops. The temple is one of the world’s greatest
showcases of Chinese temple art, renowned for its exquisite
stone sculptures, woodcarvings, and bronze work.

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 13
 B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

THROUGH THE MARKET

The traditional markets in Taipei present you with a strong taste of the real life of Taipei's people

Along the temple’s east wall is Herb Lane, packed

with shops stuffed to bursting with medicinal herbs used
in traditional tonic foods and other health-protecting
items. Bopiliao Historic Block is a renovated city-block
section, filled with heritage buildings, that took shape as
a commercial-trade street in the late 1700s/early 1800s.
The East Sanshui Street Market, a day market,
was formed in the 1920s, and many stalls are today
still operated by the same families. Walk to its back,
through catacomb-like corridors, to get to the distinctive
Art Deco horseshoe-shaped U-mkt building (umkt.
jutfoundation.org.tw/en), originally called the Xinfu
Market, built by the Japanese in 1935 as Taiwan’s first
modern public day market. Thoroughly renovated, it
today houses a history display, the stylish MOT Café
(www.motstyle.com.tw; Chinese), and other facilities.
Two notable East Sanshui Street Market stalls to visit
are “Red Turtle Grandpa,” which sells handmade
traditional-style Chinese rice cakes and oil rice, and the
“Many Dumplings Society” (dumplings.bil.tw/Chinese),
which specializes in handmade traditional-style Chinese
dumplings featuring many different fillings. MOT Café

14 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
Shops at Dadaocheng Wharf

Dadaocheng/Beimen
The heart of the Dadaocheng neighborhood, and Wanhua. The gate itself was the main portal
Dihua Street, is reached just moments after into the old walled city. Other key sites include the
pa ssing t hrough t he la rge dike gate beside Beimen Post Office, Futai Street Mansion, and
Dadocheng Wharf. “Dadaocheng” means “large Mitsui Warehouse. Also specially recommended
expanse for drying rice in the sun.” Han Chinese is the highly informative display of archeological
moved here in the 1850s after internecine fighting digs in the Taipei Metro’s Beimen Station, taking
in Bangka, and narrow Dihua Street emerged as you all the way back into the late Qing Dynasty.
the first commercial street in the new, quickly
thriving riverport settlement. The 1.7ha National Taiwan Museum Railway
Lined shoulder to shoulder with one renovated Department Park, opened in July this year, is a
heritage narrow-façade shophouse after another, history buff’s dream come true. It faces the North
today it remains north Taiwan’s premier emporium Gate across Zhongxiao West Road. The carefully
for nan-bei huo or “north-south goods” – i.e., renovated Japanese-built complex was originally
regional specialty goods – as well as for traditional the site of the R ailway Department during
Chinese medicines, traditional-style fabrics, and Taiwan’s period of Japanese rule (1895-1945). After
tea. A great many are still run by the same families WW II it became the headquarters of the Taiwan
that opened them way back when. In recent years Railways Administration. The centerpiece of the
new-era businesses aplenty have also set up camp 1.7ha park is the magnificent brick-and-wood
in the heritage buildings, notably chic cafés and administration building. Other key attractions
cultural-creative boutiques. include the WW II war command center, railway
The Beimen (North Gate) area, filled with factory, cafeteria, octagonal male wash room,
important historical sites, lies between Dadaocheng electrical room, and archeological digs.

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 15
B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

NATIONAL TAIWAN MUSEUM RAILWAY DEPARTMENT PARK

( 國立臺灣博物館 - 鐵道部園區 )
No. 2, Sec. 1, Yanping N. Rd., Datong Dist., Taipei City
( 台北市大同區延平北路一段 2 號 )
www.ntm.gov.tw/en/content_175.html

Keelung River Right/Left Bank Bike Paths

Taipei’s riverside bikeways stretch east-west right through the
urban core along the city’s share of the Keelung River, with
bikeways along both the waterway’s right (north) and left (south)
banks. On the north side the main riverside park is Yuanshan
Riverside Park, on the south is Dajia Riverside Park. Both are
family-oriented, with facilities for all ages. By way of example,
large Dajia has a grid of cycle paths, a children’s play area and
sandpit play area, basketball, tennis, and badminton courts, a
croquet field, a large fountain with regular water shows and a
central column that shoots 75m high, and much else to entertain.
Numerous major city tourist attractions are a short cycling
jaunt from the bikeways. Close to Yuanshan Riverside Park is
the tall Chinese palace-style Grand Hotel (www.grand-hotel.
org) sitting atop a low plateau, for over half a century a key
visual landmark seen from across the city. Many non-guests
visit for the views and famed restaurants. The sprawling Shilin
Tourist Night Market is Taipei’s biggest, and has a claim to
being Taiwan’s best and most famous. It started as a day market
near a Keelung River wharf in 1909, with the night market
inaugurated in 1913. The large Miramar Entertainment Park
is a modern complex housing a multi-story shopping mall. It’s
also home to an IMAX theater with a screen that is Asia’s largest
for showing commercial films, and on its roof is a 70m-high
Ferris wheel that provides a terrific cityscape panorama. Further
afield is the National Palace Museum (www.npm.gov.tw),
repository of the world’s greatest collection of Chinese imperial
artworks and artifacts.
South of the river, close by Dajia Riverside Park, is Taipei
Expo Park (www.expopark.taipei) comprised of three large park
areas used in the celebrated 2010 Taipei International Flora Expo.
Numerous futuristic pavilions from the expo remain, and on
weekends/holidays various types of entertainment are scheduled,
centered around the expansive semi-outdoor food court.

BRICK AND WOOD

The National Taiwan Museum Railway
Department Park, opened in July this year,
is a history buff's dream come true

16 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN Dajia Riverside Park

Miramar Entertainment Park Shop on Dihua Street
 ENJOY THE BREEZE

TAICHUNG
The Gaomei Wetland in Taichung and Dapeng Bay in Pingtung
County offer long straight paths with grand panoramic vistas

Gaomei Wetland
The Gaomei Wetland is in Taichung’s Qingshui District, on the are well worth checking out, notably the Dongfeng Bicycle Green
south side of the point where the Dajia River empties into the Way and Houfeng Bikeway.
Taiwan Strait. It is 300ha in area, with a seawall stretching 3.5km
that is very popular with cyclists. On the mainland side of the wall
is a cluster of tourist-focused businesses, notably food sellers, where Qingshui
bike-rental operations are found.
At the wetland’s south end is a new, large visitor center with After visiting the wetland area, take a ride inland to explore the old
exhibits on wetland topics. Gaomei is a sanctuary for birdlife, and an Qingshui urban area. Sitting on a coastal plain, backed by a high
important stopover point for migratory birds. The center’s rooftop north-south ridge, Qingshui was opened for Han Chinese settlement
provides expansive views in all directions. in the 1700s. A good place to use as a hub for a cycle tour is the
Also on the south edge is a pretty biker/pedestrian-only bridge large, multi-story Ziyun Temple. Though a Buddhist temple, it’s as
that jumps a stream to bring you over to a giant line of wind colorful and ornate as Chinese folk shrines. On the temple plaza is
turbines that makes for striking photos. Directly in front of the a small, always-busy stand, “Under the Tree Auntie Starch Balls”
aforementioned tourist-business cluster is an 800m boardwalk that – yes, under a big shade tree, and serving delicious old-style plum,
brings you far out into the wetland, just a few feet above the teeming herbal jelly, and starch ball cold drinks. Another Qingshui culinary
world of busy fiddler crabs, mudskippers, and other tiny local icon is migao, most often translated as “rice cake,” but closer to a
denizens. Off the cluster’s north end is an elegant red-and-white savory zongzi (glutinous-rice tamale) than a baked goodie. There are
lighthouse, built in 1967, that is open to visitors. several renowned old-time migao eateries near the temple; a claim to
Taichung also offers a number of other dedicated bikeways that the crown is made by “King Tower Migao.”

Rice cake Ziyun Temple Starch ball icy treat

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PINGTUNG
“Pingtung Rainbow Bicycle Network”

Dapeng Bay

Pingtung is Taiwan’s southernmost county, and bikeways on old railway-line beds.

its southernmost section is a large peninsula Tw o e l e m e nt s o f P i n g t u n g c u lt u r e
that is home to Kenting National Park (www. especially interesting are the indigenous and
ktnp.gov.tw), a tremendously popular tropical- Hakka communities. The former are primarily
paradise playground. This peninsula faces the explored on the mountain routes. For the
Pacific on the east, Taiwan Strait on the west, latter, specially recommended is the flatland
and Bashi Channel on the south, each coastal Changzhi-Linluo Bikeway. The Hakka are
area sporting a markedly different personality. a Han Chinese minority group with a strong
The county’s north area is landlocked, its presence on the island. The starting (and return
western section consists of rich f latlands point) is the Pingtung Railway Station, with
carpeted with productive family-owned farms, the main places visited along the way on this
many of them fruit operations, and its eastern farm-country jaunt the Linluo Wetlands Park,
section is taken up by foothills and highlands Pingtung Sports Park, and Liudui Hakka Liudui Hakka Cultural Park
of the Central Mountain Range. Cultural Park. The “Changzhi” and “Linluo”
LIUDUI HAKKA CULTURAL PARK
In recent years the county government has in the bikeway name refer to the two townships
( 六堆客家文化園區 )
developed a comprehensive web of integrated in which riders spend most of their time. (02) 723-0100
bikeway systems highlighting the county’s The large-scale Liudui Hakka Cultural Park No. 588, Xinyi Rd., Jianxing Village, Neipu
culture and scenery, dubbing it the “Pingtung is run by Taiwan’s Hakka Affairs Council. The Township, Pingtung County
Rainbow Bicycle Network.” It currently totals core area features exhibits, performance spaces, ( 屏東縣內埔鄉建興村信義路 588 號 )
thcdc.hakka.gov.tw/wSite/mp?mp=7
more than 460km in length. The “rainbow” activity centers, and eateries. There are also
in the title refers to the use of color coding for farmland, wetland, and grassland areas (with
the separate bikeway systems. For example, traditional-style architecture) where visitors
yellow routes are part of the coastal “blue belt” learn about traditional Hakka agricultural
system, blue routes are part of the Gaoping practices. A variety of DIY opportunities are
River/Donggang River river and coastal area also available, notably the making of traditional
system, green routes form the mountain-area Hakka oil-paper umbrellas and leicha (savory
“green corridor” system, and indigo is for Hakka-style “thunder tea”).

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 19
HUALIEN /
TAITUNG

East Taiwan Bike Routes Chishang/Guanshan

Many cyclists in Taiwan declare that the East Coast The East Rift Valley’s flat bottom and pastoral-painting tableaux makes it a
region encompassing Hualien and Taitung counties popular leisure-cycling destination, with many routes to choose from. Two
offers the island’s best cycling. This is certainly true for of the busiest are dedicated bikeways centered on the towns of Chishang
recreational cyclists. Provincial Highway 9, which runs and Guanshan, located close to each other. Both are long loop routes, that
between the cities of Hualien and Taitung through the take you through color-burst paddy field, rapeseed field, and fruit orchard
colorful-crop farms of the fecund East Rift Valley, has tapestries interlaced with networks of gurgling-water irrigation channels, and
smooth grades, long and lazy curves, and wide shoulders. to many sites of historical and/or cultural interest. There are numerous bike-
Provincial Highway 11, which runs between the two cities rental outlets around the starting points, located at the edge of each respective
on the Pacific side of the Coastal Mountain Range, is town. Most any biking need will be satisfied, up to pedal bikes for four
much the same, save for a section north of the Xiuguluan people and e-carts for six. The Guanshan loop has the honor of being the first
River that has more challenging grades and both tighter dedicated bikeway created in Taiwan, and remains among the most beautiful.
curves and shoulders. Perhaps the most pleasing section of the Guanshan loop is a long, well-
East Coast trains run through the rift valley, and since shaded run along a gushing-water irrigation canal that runs along the
bikes can be taken on certain trains (look for the bike mountainside beside the town providing wonderful sweeping views of the
symbol on the schedule at railway.gov.tw), many riders use town, neat farm plots beyond in all directions, and the Coastal Mountain
the service to tackle the valley in sections. As well, some Range backdrop. The most photographed section of the Chishang loop is
tackle rides combining valley and coast by cycling over Bolang Dadao (Brown Avenue), set amidst a sea of paddies, made famous in
the coastal mountains; the easiest-grade mountain-traverse a Mr. Brown Coffee commercial and EVA Air commercial starring Japanese-
route is Provincial Highway 30, which is tunneled. Taiwanese pop-idol heartthrob Takeshi Kaneshiro.

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 B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

RICE COUNTRY
The East Rift Valley in eastern Taiwan
is a source of high-quality rice and the
most beautiful paddy field scenery

Luoshan
The farming village of Luoshan is in a lovely small side valley off the Luoshan tofu maker
main East Rift Valley, not far north of Chishang. The valley is an
indent in the coastal mountains. The local residents are about 80%
Hakka. The remainder are majority Han Chinese and indigenous-
tribe members. This farming community was the first in Taiwan to
go organic, and now its bikeway, far less known than the Guanshan/
Chishang facilities, is quickly gaining attention.
The ride, along somnambulant paved roads, starts at the East
Rift Valley National Scenic Area’s Luoshan visitor center, close to
Provincial Highway 9. The first section is flat, through the idyllic farm-
field mosaic on the valley floor. The grade then steepens, taking cyclists
up through a hilly farmed area. The last leg is a walk to the bikeway’s
main thrill, the Luoshan Waterfalls, a two-tier beauty with a height
of about 120m that courses through a jagged mountain fault line.
In the hilly farm area is the other main draw, the Luoshan Mud
Volcano. With government help, local seniors have revived an old-time
art, making “volcanic mud tofu.” The muddy waters, mineral-rich, are
great for making this savory delectable. A selection of local tourist-
oriented farms offer DIY sessions.

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B IC YCLING / A ROUND TA I WA N

OFFSHORE ISLANDS Kinmen

Greater K inmen a nd L esser K inmen are t wo large
Taiwan-controlled islands that are part of a tightly-packed
archipelago just off the coast of mainland China’s Fujian
province. Their nearest point, on Greater Kinmen, is
just 1,800m from the China mainland shore – site of the
military-manned Mashan Observation Station. With cold
war tensions now eased, many military facilities are now
retired and open to the public. The countryside is dotted
with productive, small farms and imperial-era clan villages
featuring distinctive south Fujian architecture.
Cycling is a breeze here. The terrain is comparatively
f lat, the roads are of excellent quality (built to handle
military hardware), population density is low, and locals
drive noticeably slowly. The majority of visitors spend most
of their time on Greater Kinmen. There is good tree cover
and much shade along its routes, especially on and around
rocky Mount Taiwu (just 253m high). A tourist favorite is
the Wind Lion God cycling tour. There are 60-plus colorful
Bicyclists posing in front of Deyue Tower in Kinmen statues around the islands to protect homes and farm fields
from the sometimes strong winds; Wind Lion tour maps are
available at Kinmen tourist information centers.
Penghu Old Street in Penghu's Magong City
The Penghu Islands, most often simply referred to as “Penghu,” are a wide-flung
archipelago of history-rich islands sitting in the middle of the Taiwan Strait. Like
the Kinmen Islands, they lie low to the surrounding waters, with few high points,
making them nigh perfect for cycling. Locals describe the collection of 90 islands
as “pearls scattered on the turquoise sea.” And again like Kinmen, the long,
sleepy roads have little motor-vehicle traffic. The islands are primarily rocky, with
massive formations of exposed volcanic basalt columns prominent and seascapes
dramatic, and dotted with a number of fine white-sand beaches.
This was a key regional crossroads in the days of sail, including for pirates. The
islands are a slow-moving realm of old fishing villages – with a selection of stone-
residence villages fully renovated and now major tourist draws – old temples, old
lighthouses, and old fort ruins. Small farm plots are protected from the famed
winter winds that rush down the strait by low coral walls. The three main islands,
connected by bridge, form the outer walls of a comparatively calm inland sea. Sail
sports are popular on the water, long and leisurely bike and scooter tours on the
land. Boat tours to the outlying islands are also popular, with bike/scooter rental
operations set up at docksides, as are nighttime squid-fishing outings.

MORE INFO ENGLISH AND CHINESE

A few specially recommended resources on matters Bangka 艋舺 Luoshan Mud Volcano 羅山泥火山
cycling... Beimen 北門 "Many Dumplings Society" 多餃社
Bolang Dadao 伯朗大道 Mashan Observation Station 馬山觀測站
On Taiwan cycling in general: taiwanon2wheels.com Changzhi-Linluo Bikeway 長治 - 麟洛自行車道 migao 米糕
Chishang 池上 nan-bei huo 南北貨
On Taipei's riverside bikeway system: travel.taipei/ Dadaocheng (Wharf) 大稻埕 ( 碼頭 ) Penghu Islands 澎湖群島
en/must-visit/riverside-bikeway Dajia Riverside Park 大佳河濱公園 "Pingtung Rainbow Bicycle Network"
Dongfeng Bicycle Green Way 東豐自行車綠廊 屏東彩虹自行車道
As well, note that Travel in Taiwan has specially East Sanshui Street Market 東三水街市場 Pingtung Sports Park 屏東運動公園
covered many of the bikeways mentioned in these Gaomei Wetland 高美濕地 Qingshui District 清水區
pages, such as the Chishang/Guanshan and Guanshan 關山 "Red Turtle Grandpa" 紅龜伯
Houfeng/Dongfeng rides, as well as numerous Houfeng Bikeway 后豐鐵馬道 U-mkt 新富町文化市場
others. Visit our back issues at issuu.com/ "King Tower Migao" 王塔米糕 "Under the Tree Auntie Starch Balls" 樹下阿婆粉圓
travelintaiwan. leicha 擂茶 Wanhua District 萬華區
Linluo Wetlands Park 麟洛濕地公園 Wind Lion God 風獅爺
Longshan Riverside Park 龍山河濱公園 Xinfu Market 新富市場
Luoshan Bikeway 羅山自行車道 Yuanshan Riverside Park 圓山河濱公園
Luoshan Waterfalls 羅山瀑布 zongzi 粽子

22 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 CON V ENIENT TR AV EL

Taiwan Tour Bus

NANTOU BY BUS
website

Exploring the Charming Countryside of Central Taiwan

TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

Nantou County, located right in the center of the island, is home to a large number of tourist attractions. Jiji
is a township to the west of popular Sun Moon Lake. It’s best known for its branch railway line, a ride you can
experience while on the following organized bus tour.

T Jiji Railway and Sky Bridge (One-Day Tour)

he Jiji Railway and Sky Bridge (One-Day Tour) guided
bus tour, detailed on the Taiwan Tour Bus website (www.
taiwantourbus.com.tw), is a fun-packed trip that presents ( 集集鐵道風情車埕、蛇窯、天空之橋一日遊 )
the traveler with intriguing scenery, history, and culture – and www.taiwantourbus.com.tw/C/tour/en/jiji-railway-sky-bridge
even a train ride!
ITINERARY
JIJI
Jiji is Nantou Count y’s smalle st and least p opulate d Central Taichung → Jiji → Jiji Branch Line → Checheng →
township, but it is well known around the island for two Lunch → Shuili Snake Kiln → Sky Bridge → Sunny Hills →
reasons, the Jiji Branch Line and the Jiji Earthquake of Nantou Tourist Factory → Central Taichung
19 9 9. The devastating ear thquake that rocked central
Taiwan on September 21st left scars, some of which can still
be seen today, including Jiji’s devastated Wuchang Temple. FEE: NT$1,850; including bus fare, lunch, bicycle rental at
Jiji, Sky Bridge ticket, Jiji-Checheng train ticket, insurance
JIJI BRANCH LINE and guide, and Shuili Snake Kiln ticket
In operation since 1921, the Jiji Branch Line starts at the town
of Ershui in Changhua County and makes its way east through
Nantou County to Checheng, the terminal station. Today
the line is mostly used by tourists, many of which will buy a
day ticket to be able to hop off/hop on at will and do some
sightseeing around the stations. During this trip, you’ll take
the train between the Jiji and Checheng stations.

SHUILI SNAKE KILN

Shuili Snake Kiln (www.snakekiln.com.tw), established in 1927,
is one of Taiwan’s last remaining “snake” kilns (an elongated
kiln with a snakelike form). In the past, the kiln was fired up
to temperatures of 1,200 degrees Celsius, with all manner of
pottery produced. Visitors can actually walk through the kiln,
from a side entrance all the way to its rear.

SKY BRIDGE
After leaving the Jiji area, the tour continues with your bus
making its way to the verdant heights of the low Bagua
Mountain Range. There you will walk across the elegant Sky
Bridge, which has a length of about 200m, is about 60m
above the forest floor, and has 265 steps.

SUNNY HILLS
Sunny Hills (www.sunnyhills.com.tw) is one of the premier
producers of pineapple cakes, a favorite gift buy for tourists
visiting Taiwan. Its Nantou branch, inside a traditional three-
sided courtyard complex, has become a very popular tourist
attraction, with customers often seen queuing outside.

MARSHAL TOUR ( 元帥旅行社 ) ENGLISH AND CHINESE

www.marshaltour.com.tw Bagua Mountain Range 八卦山脈 Shuili Snake Kiln 水里蛇窯
(04) 2301-5590 Checheng 車埕 Sky Bridge 天空之橋
Rm C, 11F, No. 161, Gongyi Rd., West Dist., Taichung City Ershui 二水 Sunny Hills 微熱山丘
( 台中市西區公益路 161 號 11 樓 C 室 ) Jiji Branch Line 集集支線 Wuchang Temple 武昌宮

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 23
 B IC YCLING / E V ENT S

ROUND-LAKE RIDE
The route around Sun Moon Lake is
one of the most scenic in Taiwan

The Taiwan Cycling Festival

The Overseas Traveler’s Healthiest Portal to Taiwan’s Scenic and Cultural Beauties
TE X T RICK CH A RE T TE PHOTOS CHE N CHE NG - KUO, V I S ION , TA IWA N CYCLI ST FE DE R ATION

The Taiwan Tourism Bureau has established two special

T
he annual Taiwan Cycling Festival is the creation
of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau, and is built
websites for those of adventurous spirit pumped up around a corps of major events, including those
with the idea of probing this land’s nooks and crannies we will cover below – Come!Bikeday, the Taiwan KOM
on two self-powered wheels: taiwanon2wheels.com (King of the Mountain) Challenge, and Light Up
Taiwan – complemented by numerous events smaller in
and taiwanbike.tw. The first provides general info scale. The tourism-promotion quest that lays behind the
on events and festivals, pre-trip planning, suggested staging of the festival is very broad, yet at the same time
routes, travel agencies handling cycling tours, and is built on a set of laser-targeted specifics.

much else. The second is dedicated to the Taiwan These promotion targets are:
Cycling Festival, a whirlwind of events spread out over
The full panoply of the Taiwan cycling experience for all
the calendar, which has a wonderful combination of
travelers local and from abroad looking for new, inviting
relaxed and thrilling events that bring you up into the travel destinations with a health-enhancement and eco-
high mountains and down by the pounding sea, and to friendly angle.
countless lovely places in between. Here we present to The range of natural scenery that is so impressively varied
you the Taiwan Cycling Festival.

24 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 B IC YCLING / E V ENT S

for an island of this size (plus its many offshore islands of unique
personality) and the alluring man-created scenic sights.
The full and still growing network (over 4,000km) of
interlinked regional and local bike-route webs and the ever more
SUN MOON LAKE
comprehensive infrastructure of rental and repair facilities.
Come! Bikeday
Quality accommodations that span the full budget range
This is a showca se for the exquisitely beautif ul
wherever you bike, the superb and pleasingly affordable food, and
Sun Moon Lake, located in the Sun Moon Lake
the warmhearted friendliness and hospitality of the local people.
Nat ion a l S c e n ic A re a (w w w.sunm oonl ake.gov.
tw) in the central mountains. The elevation of the
Sound like something in which you should be interested? We
mountain-surrounded lake’s surface is about 750m.
should say so.
The CNN Travel website has described the round-
lake bike route as one of the world’s top 10 “cycling
Taiwan is now energetically promoting green tourism through
routes that’ll take your breath away.”
the vigorous marketing of cycling tours, and the Taiwan Tourism
Come!Bikeday happens over a weekend in late
Bureau has introduced numerous incentive packages and other
autumn, with different events satisfying the desires of
promotional activities for international tourists. For more
competitive riders, leisure riders, and kids. The center
information, visit the bureau’s website at www.taiwan.net.tw.
of action is the expansive Xiangshan Visitor Center,
located on the lake’s west side. Among these is the
30km round-lake Challenge Ride highway jaunt,
for more serious bikers. The start and finish is at the
visitor center.
The non-competitive, family-oriented Joy Ride is
10km, and features easy grades. You start at the visitor
center, head through the main lakeside village (Shuishe),
and turn around just past the Zhaowu Pier to return
the same way. A long part of this happy big-gathering
excursion is along the popular bikeway (for walkers
as well) that runs along the lake’s west side. The Push
Bike section is a competition for tots 2~6, who race
their push bikes (no-pedal bikes) on a mini-course set
Xiangshan Visitor Center up on the visitor center’s grassy grounds.

The west-side bikeway is itself one of Sun Moon Lake’s

most popular attractions, and delivers you to numerous
other attractions. The Xiangshan Visitor Center has
an info-rich exhibit hall and a fine glass-wall café
overlooking a small, quiet bay. Close to it – part of the
bikeway – are the poetically lovely Tongxin Bridge and
Yongjie Bridge, known as the “wedding photo bridges.”
The Xiangshan Scenic Outlook skywalk, also near the
center, is reached via a branch boardwalk that seems to
float through treetops, high above the aforementioned
bay.
South of the center, the bikeway brings you to
large, quiet Crescent Bay, one of the lake’s quietest
Crescent Bay areas, with no powered boats allowed entry. There is a
campground and SUP/kayaking center here. North is
the aforementioned Shuishe Pier, busy during the day
with tour boats, and a great place for people-watching,
faced by a line of cafés and eateries with alfresco seating.

Sun Moon Lake Dam

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 25
 B IC YCLING / E V ENT S

BLACK BEVERAGE
Sun Moon Lake is well known for the production
of high-quality black tea

HOHOCHA
HOHOCHA is the newest large-scale attraction in the Sun Moon
Lake area. It is located right beside Provincial Highway 21 about
5km north of the lake, in the town of Yuchi. The theme here is black
tea (Assam, Amber, Ruby, Amethyst). Sun Moon Lake is the center
of Taiwan’s black-tea production, the origins of which date back
to the 1895-1945 Japanese colonial era. Assam tea was introduced
during that time, and a related research station is still in operation.
HOHOCHA’s various facilities sit amidst an expansive hillside/hilltop
tea plantation.
The best way to experience the place is through one of the regular
free guided tours (Chinese). These start at the main building, a three-
story Japanese-style edifice with a façade of dark-stained wood. This
is a combination exhibit/retail/dining facility. Your guide explains
the tea-processing operations on the main floor and introduces the
building’s different services (more on these in a moment). You then go
into the fields for an intro to the various types of leaf and a visit to the
plantation’s hilltop leaf-gathering facility.
In the main building, in the 3F dining/DIY hall visitors are
provided with a free tea-sampler tray, along with a delicious tea egg.
Tea ceremony activities and DIY activities are held here: tea kneading,
blending, sealing, etc. On the 2F is a retail center with loose-leaf tea
and a wide array of tea-themed snacks for sale. A bakery provides
oven-fresh tea cookies, biscuits, and other goodies. And on a 2F
balcony is a stand with seating at which house-made gelatos,
fine Sun Moon Lake coffee, and light food are sold. Black tea
is used as a flavoring for the latter two and for numerous
gelato selections. DIY pizza-making sessions with tea
used as an ingredient are also held here. Stands on the Yuchi

1F sell fresh-prepared tea eggs, tea luwei (soy-braised HOHOCHA 131

tasties), and tea drinks.

Note that camping facilities and outdoor group-fun
activities are also offered (advance booking required).
21

HOHOCHA
(049) 289-5899
No. 443-36, Yuchi St., Yuchi Village, Yuchi Township,
Nantou County ( 南投縣魚池鄉魚池村魚池街 443-36 號 )
www.facebook.com/sunmoonblacktea
21
Hotel Del Lago

Shuishe

Yongjie Sun Moon Lake

Bridge
Tongxin Xiangshan
Bridge Scenic Outlook

Xiangshan
Visitor Center

21甲

Crescent
Bay

21甲

26 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 B IC YCLING / E V ENT S
LAKE VIEW
If you stay in a lake-facing room of Hotel Del Lago,
you can sit almost right above the lake's waters

Hotel Del Lago

This upscale hotel is in one of the taller buildings
in Shuishe, standing right beside the Shuishe Pier
– “del lago” means “on the lake.” Its lake panorama
is a treat, with the sweeping look of a 180-degree
shanshui painting. The view embraces sights such as
the Wenwu Temple on the far left, Ita Thao village
straight ahead, Lalu Island on the far right, and Ci’en
Pagoda between the latter two. The hotel is also a
pleasure to look at from the pier or on the lake. The
light-tone façade has a curving wave-like pattern that
blends elegantly with the lake waves.
When enjoying a meal in the Chinese/Western
buffet restaurant on the first floor, which has doors
connecting directly to Shuishe Pier, bright-painted
tour boats can be seen through the French-style
windows. Note that the hotel’s buffet breakfast is
taken here, and that diners can choose to sit outside
at patio umbrella tables.
The hotel has 88 rooms, roughly divided in terms
of style into European postmodern minimalist –
verging on Scandinavian, with pronounced blonde
tones – and Japanese classic. Each has one wall of
floor-to-ceiling windows that allow excellent views.
Guests also much praise the spa-massage column
installed in each room’s shower stall.

Two other big hits with guests are the hotel’s

bike-rental service and paid SUP (standup
paddleboarding) outings. A platoon of high-
quality bicycles from Giant, the famed Taiwan
brand, is lined up outside the lobby entrance.
These are available to guests at minimal rates.
This service is extremely popular, but visitors
need not fret should no bikes be available.
A large Giant rental operation in the multi-
level Shuishe Visitor Center is near the hotel.
Qualified instructors conduct the SUP outings,
which happen in the early morning before the
wake-creating tour boats wake up. The SUP
excursions are also launched from the pier.
A final note: Be sure your room is on the
hotel’s lake-facing side; rooms on the inland
side face Shuishe’s main intersection. (Rooms
start at NT$7,000; Chinese/Western buffet
breakfast included).

HOTEL DEL LAGO ( 日月潭大淶閣飯店 )

(049) 285-6688
No. 101, Zhongshan Rd., Shuishe Village, Yuchi
Township, Nantou County
( 南投縣魚池鄉水社村中山路 101 號 )
www.dellago.com.tw

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 27
B IC YCLING / E V ENT S

HUALIEN-WULING
King of the Mountain (KOM) Event
The Taiwan KOM (King of the Mountain) Challenge
(taiwankom.org) is the most exciting and spirit-demanding
of the Taiwan Cycling Festival events, and considered the
highlight event. The first edition of the Taiwan Cycling
Festival was in 2010, the first for this race in 2012. It
has become one of the most prestigious and sought-after
challenges on international racers’ calendars. Rivaling the
picturesque mountain-climb sections of the Tour de France
and the Giro d’Italia, the world’s biggest names come each
year seeking the King of the Mountain crown.
Held in late autumn, this is an international race
reserved for elite riders – above 16 years of age and capable
of finishing the route in 6.5hrs or less – that starts in the
scenic coastal Qixingtan area just north of the small east
coast city of Hualien and takes riders through magnificent
Taroko National Park (taroko.gov.tw). At the park’s base just

Taichung City
inland from the coast is Taroko Gorge, Taiwan’s greatest
natural wonder, where sheer marble-laced cliffs a thousand
meters high almost kiss in places. The race ends far, far

Hualien County
uphill along the Central Cross-Island Highway at the
Wuling pass, Taiwan’s highest road point at 3,275 meters.
The pass is surrounded by the Hehuanshan (Mt. Hehuan)
9
8
peaks, all easily accessible via trails of moderate length and
gradient. Riders, starting at sea level, cover 105km, with
the route featuring many steep and winding sections.
There are also two “baby KOM” rides held each spring Hehuanshan Taroko Gorge

and summer for experienced riders who would like the Wuling

Nantou
awe-inspiring sense of achievement of tackling the KOM 14甲

route but perhaps are not at the same level as the pros and
County
elite amateurs who enter the big race: the Road to Taiwan
KOM – Spring and Road to Taiwan KOM – Summer. Qixingtan
The route is the same, but the cut-off time is extended to
9hrs from 6.5. Riders finishing within 7.5hrs automatically 9 193

qualify for the autumn race.

28 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 CHALLENGES B IC YCLING / E V ENT S
Among the goals for ambitious bikers in Taiwan are climbing up
Wuling and visiting the island's best lighthouses on two wheels

Fuguijiao
Lighthouse
Sandiaojiao
Lighthouse
AROUND TAIWAN
Light Up Taiwan
This series of rides – full name “Light Up
Taiwan 4 Poles Lighthouse Cycling Tour”
– takes you on single-day cycle outings to
lighthouses at the island’s four compass points.
The excursions are spread out from mid-summer
to mid-autumn, allowing ample preparation
time in between for those who wish to tackle
Guosheng Port all four. There are theme souvenirs for each
Lighthouse individual ride, and an Activity Passport that
after being fully stamped can be used to obtain
Eluanbi
an official memorial certificate attesting that all
Lighthouse
four lighthouses have been visited. All the rides
are casual fun rides, ranging from about 20km
to 40km, designed for families and other cyclists
of moderate fitness interested in easy-paced
exercise focused on scenic discoveries.
Guosheng Port Lighthouse
Fi r st up i s t he E a st Pole – S a nd i a oji a o
Lighthouse tour (25km), in the Northeast and
Yilan Coast National Scenic Area (www.necoast-
nsa.gov.tw). You start off and end at the Fulong
Visitor Center, in the beach-fun/cycling town
of Fulong. The Sandiaojiao (Sandiao Cape)
Lighthouse was built by the Japanese in 1935.

Second is the West Pole – Guosheng Port

Lighthouse tour (36km), in the Southwest
Coa st Nationa l Scenic A rea (swcoast-nsa-
travel). The start and finish is at the Taiwan Salt
Museum; this extremely f lat region, home to
many wetland areas, was once a major producer
of sea salt. The Guosheng Port Lighthouse was
built on a sandbar in 1957.

Third is the South Pole – Eluanbi Lighthouse

tour (42km), in Kenting National Park (www.
ENGLISH AND CHINESE ktnp.gov.tw). The start and finish is at the
Ci'en Pagoda 慈恩塔 Eluanbi Lighthouse Square. The lighthouse,
Crescent Bay 月牙灣
built by a British engineer for the Qing Dynasty
Eluanbi Lighthouse 鵝鑾鼻燈塔
Fuguijiao Lighthouse 富貴角燈塔 government, went into operation in 1883.
Guosheng Port Lighthouse 國聖港燈塔
Ita Thao 伊達邵 Last is the North Pole – Fuguijiao Lighthouse
Lalu Island 拉魯島 t ou r (2 3k m a nd 32 k m opt ion s), i n t he
Light Up Taiwan 臺灣燈塔極點慢旅
Qixingtan 七星潭
Gua ny insha n a nd Nor t h Coa st Nationa l
Sandiaojiao Lighthouse 三貂角燈塔 Scenic Area (www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw). Start/
Shuishe Pier 水社碼頭 finish for both options is at Zhongjiao Bay. The
Sun Moon Lake 日月潭 Fuguijiao (Fugui Cape) Lighthouse was first
Taiwan Cycling Festival 臺灣自行車節
built by the Japanese in 1896; the current tower
Taiwan KOM Challenge 臺灣自行車登山王挑戰
Taiwan Salt Museum 台灣鹽博物館 was erected in 1962.
Taroko Gorge 太魯閣峽谷
Tongxin Bridge 同心橋 Other complementary forays will also be offered.
Wenwu Temple 文武廟 This year, the West Coast Beachside Village
Wuling 武嶺
Xiangshan Scenic Outlook 向山眺望平台
tour (35km) was held on the day following the
Xiangshan Visitor Center 向山遊客中心 West Pole tour.
Yongjie Bridge 永結橋
Yuchi 魚池

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 29
B IC YCLING / CITIE S

Cycling
in the Cities
Taking Advantage of Public Bike Rental Systems in Taiwan
TE X T H A N CHEUNG PHOTOS R AY CH A NG , AS K A CHI , V I S ION

With a terrific combination of shared-

bike systems and dedicated bikeways
available in cities in its north and along
its west coast, Taiwan has become an
urban cyclist’s paradise. Thoughtfully
planned bike routes connect to public
transportation hubs, green spaces,
and tourist sights, opening up new
possibilities for travel on the island.

W
ith over 2,000 automated in parts of Taipei and Kaohsiung, the
bicycle-share stations spread upgraded YouBike 2.0 system is even
across 12 municipa lities more convenient, with enhanced rental
and counties in Taiwan’s north and options and improved vehicles as well as
a long its western coa st, a s well a s solar-powered stations.
on the offshore islands of Kinmen, YouBike took over New Taipei City’s
getting around town and launching Newbike system in 2014, and expanded
impromptu urban-cycling adventures to Taoyuan City in 2016. Conveniently
has never been easier. located near public transport stations as
well as in commercial districts and near
YouBike (www.youbike.com.tw) was public spaces and popular sights, the
launched in Taipei City’s ritzy Xinyi 359 stations in Taoyuan are scattered
District with just 11 stations and 500 across the expansive municipa lit y.
bikes as a trial program in 2009. After YouBi ke cont inued to pu sh sout h
a slow start, the service was expanded afterward, reaching the cities/counties
quickly along Taipei Metro (MRT) of Hsinchu, Miaoli, Taichung, and
lines, while fares were adjusted and Ch a ng hu a . K aoh siu ng’s Cit yBi ke
registration options expanded. The bikes system was replaced by YouBike in June.
have become immensely popular over Expansions are planned for Yunlin and
the years, providing a green and healthy Yilan in 2021.
option for commuters and opening
up new travel possibilities for visitors. Tainan, Pingtung City, and Kinmen
The signature orange-and-yellow two- operate their own systems, T-Bike
wheelers are now an essential element (tbike.tainan.gov.tw), Pbike (pbike.pthg.
in Taipei’s street scenery – though the gov.tw), and K-Bike (www.qbike.com.
recently launched 2.0 version bikes come tw), respectively.
in pearl-white and yellow. Available

MathewBike
30 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 B IC YCLING / CITIE S

GENERAL
INFORMATION
AND TIPS
Except for Pbike, which only accepts the iPass
(www.i-pass.com.tw) card, all of Taiwan’s bike-share
systems accept payment by the EasyCard (www.
easycard.com.tw). Both types of card can be used for
pretty much all public transport, and are available
at any chain convenience store. The systems also
accept credit cards for one-time rentals, but if
you’re staying more than a few days in Taiwan it’s
definitely advisable to purchase an EasyCard, as the
card also serves as an electronic wallet.
The rental systems are quite similar – registration
is completed at kiosks at each station, upon which
the user can start renting bikes after a short wait.
Online registration is also available, as well as the
use of smartphone apps. Rental procedures vary
slightly between systems, but mostly involve placing
one’s card on a reader at a dock or kiosk. YouBike
2.0 has its smart control panels located on the bikes
instead of on the docks.
The YouBike app makes things even easier. Users
can register cards, check their transaction history,
and look up rental stations on their mobile phones.
The app also conveniently indicates how many bikes
and docks are available at each station, saving riders
from an empty trip. Make sure you check the tires,
seat, brake pressure, and lights before setting off,
as these bikes see extremely high usage. You’ll have
to wait 15 minutes after returning one bike before
taking a new one. Note that a YouBike with its seat
turned backwards indicates it is broken.
The best thing about these bikes is that they
are extremely affordable. Renting a YouBike costs
NT$10 per 30 minutes within the first four hours,
while a Pbike is free for the first half hour. The
MODERN AND OLD K-Bike system is even more generous, offering bikes
Biking in the Xinyi District, you will experience the
free of charge for the first hour.
ultra-modern and the traditional sites of Taipei

Bike Rentals and Guided Bike Tours

If you want to go for a leisurely bike ride in Taipei City, your first choice for renting a
bicycle will certainly be the YouBike public bike-rental system (taipei.youbike.com.tw). If
you want to go on a longer (perhaps multi-day) and/or more challenging (perhaps into
the mountains/around the island) ride, you want to rent a bike that is fit for the purpose.
There are a number of excellent Taipei bike shops that will provide you with exactly
the bike you need for your trip. One of these operations is MathewBike (mathewbike.
com), a small shop located in Shilin District. From simple children’s bikes to top-notch
steeds for highly demanding tours, Mathew can provide every type of bike and also
the accessories you’ll need for your next cycle adventure. For demanding multi-day
high-mountain rides, the shop can even provide support vehicles to accompany riders.
If interested in a guided bicycle tour of Taipei City (half day or full day), check out
Taipei Bike Tours/Taipei Bike Works (www.taipeibiketours.com), which is run by two
young bike enthusiasts from the US. Their tours are both very informative and much
fun, your guide taking you to many interesting spots in the city that the average tourist
will never see. You can also rent high-quality bikes, and if your own bike needs repair
Taipei Bike Tours/Taipei Bike Works and/or customization, Taipei Bike Works is the shop you want to go.
 B IC YCLING / CITIE S

NORTH TAIWAN
Eslite Xinyi Store
Taipei/Xinyi District/Xinyi Road Bike Path
The bustling Xinyi District is where Taiwan’s shared-bike system

TAIPEI
began. Home to Taiwan’s tallest building, a huge 24-hour bookstore,

AD
and tons of trendy clubs, high-end restaurants, and fancy malls, the

RO
CITY
area is also quite bike-friendly, with cycling lanes along and between
the main thoroughfares, including Ren’ai and Xinyi roads. Hop on

G
UN
a YouBike and explore the area to experience one of the liveliest and

EL
most fashionable parts of Taipei.

KE
The star attraction of the area is undoubtedly the iconic Taipei
101 tower, which at 508m was the world’s tallest building from its
opening in 2004 to 2010. Today, it ranks 11th among the world’s
skyscrapers. The postmodern bamboo- or pagoda-shaped glass- Taipei 101
and-steel structure is an impressive sight from below, but wait
until you ride the ultra-fast elevators that carry you to the 89th
floor observatory in just 37 seconds – also a world record when it
was completed. The expansive views of the sprawling metropolis XINYI ROAD
and the mountains beyond are stunning, but the coolest feature is
perhaps the world’s largest tuned mass damper, which stabilizes the
tower against high winds and earthquakes. The spheric structure is 44 South Village
visible from different angles from the 87th to 91st floors. Last year,
the 101st floor was finally opened to the public, and if you’re brave
enough you can walk outside (tethered) on the gangway surrounding
the building.

Just to the southwest of Taipei 101 is the 44 South Village, a

section of a former military dependents’ settlement turned cultural-
creative park, featuring artsy boutiques, a local-food market famous
for its bagels, performance spaces, and open-air markets. The narrow
pathways between the heritage concrete buildings are a joy to wander
through, and make for a stark contrast to its glamorous modern-
architecture neighbors.
A f ter E slite’s (www.eslite.com) f lagship Dunhua South
Road store shut its doors in May after 31 years in operation, the
bookstore’s 24-hour mantle passed to the Xinyi branch. Located
amidst a cluster of high-end shopping malls, this multi-floor Eslite
outlet also has a food court, coffee shops, an art gallery, and a mall
selling all kinds of local and/or creative designer products.

Taipei 101 ESLITE BOOKS

Browsing books and magazines 24h a day

32 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 B IC YCLING / CITIE S

Xindian River
Riding the Xindian cycle paths is a pleasant journey (along both bursting with old buildings, shops, and markets, plus atmospheric
sides of the winding Xindian River), a major river that defines heritage temples. There’s so much packed in this area that it also
Taipei’s south border. Start from the scenic area of Bitan, home to warrants a separate visit (read article on page 10 for more about the
a wide section of the river resembling a lake. Swan-shaped pedal area).
boats are one of the more popular features at Bitan, along with an The path technically ends at the Huajiang Bridge, but if you
83-year-old suspension bridge that provides lovely views of the area have time and stamina you can continue and follow the Tamsui River
and the beauty of the surrounding hills. Bitan is right beside MRT north all the way to the popular portside getaway of Tamsui on the
Xindian Station. north coast, or you can cross the bridge and head southwest along the
From there, it’s an enjoyable ride north along the river, passing Dahan River. The path on the north side of the river will take you to
by high-rise residential areas, through verdant riverside parks, and by the charming pottery town of Yingge. If you stay on the south side
modernistic bridges, making for an ideal escape from the congestion you’ll first follow the Dahan, then the Sanxia River, with the path
and noise of the city. The floodgates dotted along the path allow ending in central Sanxia. This town is famous for its ornate Zushi
cyclists to exit from the riverside route back into the concrete jungle, Temple and its picturesque Old Street, renowned among other things
where YouBike stations should be readily available (there are no for its tasty bull-horn bread, shaped like croissants.
YouBike stations right along the riverside bike path).

The route passes by Treasure Hill, a one-time illegal squatters

settlement that has been turned into an artist village well worth
exploring, but you might want to return on a different day to spend
at least an afternoon wandering the twisting alleys and visiting the
myriad artist studios and shops. Nearby is the Gongguan night
market and commercial district, the Museum of Drinking Water,
and the Gongguan Waterfront Plaza, where you can take a break at
an outdoor shipping-container bar and eatery area.
The flower fields at the Zhongzheng Riverside Park and Guting
Riverside Park are great for selfies, and further north one can explore
the historic Wanhua District, which feels like it’s trapped in time,

Gongguan Waterfront Plaza

r
R ive TAIPEI CITY
an
h
Da
Longshan Temple
Guting
Zhongzheng Riverside
Huajiang
Bridge Riverside Park Park Museum of
Wanhua
Drinking Water
District
Gongguan
Night Market
Xin
dia Gongguan Treasure Hill
nR Waterfront
ive
r Plaza

NEW TAIPEI CITY Bitan

TREASURE HILL
An artist village well worth exploring

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 33
 B IC YCLING / CITIE S

WEST COAST CITIES

Taichung / Taichung Art Boulevard
Grab a YouBike in front of the National Taiwan
Museum of Fine Arts (www.ntmofa.gov.tw) in Taichung
and head down the Art Museum Parkway, a refreshing
green corridor in the middle of the city lined with
restaurants, galleries, bookstores, and boutiques. The
brick path winding through the middle of the parkway
takes pedestrians and cyclists past a series of large-scale
public artworks. At night the atmospheric street lighting
gives the place a calming, romantic ambience, and
during the weekend it bustles with cultural-arts activities
such as street performances and concerts.
After returning your bike, wind down at one of the
parkway’s many eateries offering global dining options,
which range from Taiwanese and Taiwanese indigenous
cuisine to Greek, Indian, French, and Thai. Of course,
don’t forget to check out the art museum itself, which
is one of the largest of its kind in Asia. It boasts an
outdoor sculpture garden and features mostly modern
and contemporary pieces by Taiwanese artists, although
it also hosts special exhibitions by overseas talent.
You c a n continue c ycling on to t he adjacent
Calligraphy Greenway and beyond, all the way to the
National Museum of Natural Science (www.nmns.edu.
tw) with plenty of sights to keep you busy along the way.

OLD CAPITAL
There is much to discover in Tainan, including old
temples and old streets

National Museum
of Natural Science
12

TAICHUNG
CITY Calligraphy
Greenway

1乙

National Taiwan
Museum of Fine Arts

Art Museum
Parkway
Biking close to the National Taiwan
Museum of Fine Arts

34 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 B IC YCLING / CITIE S

Tainan / Meili Park Bikeway TAINAN CITY

Explore the heart of Tainan on the 11.9km Meili Park Bikeway, a
loop that circles most of the major sights in the urban core not far
Tainan Park
from the train station. T-Bike stations are dotted across the area,
and if you’re arriving by train and want to start your trek right
away, there’s one right outside the station building. The loop passes Tainan
through several large green spaces, including the city’s oldest and Shennong Street Railway Station
20
largest park, Tainan Park, which was built in 1917. Just north
of the train station, this is a great place to relax and enjoy nature
as well as explore historical relics as well as Chinese-style stone Hayashi Department Store

bridges and pavilions. Tainan Confucius Temple

You’ll pass by the heritage-rich Shennong Street, which is

Koxinga Shrine
bursting with creativity with artists and designers opening shop in
182
refurbished 100-year-old houses. Grab a bite or some coffee here,
soak up the atmosphere, and maybe plan to return for a drink later at
one of the funky bars. The 88-year-old Hayashi Department Store
(www.hayashi.com.tw) is worth a brief stop before visiting the nearby
Confucius Temple, which was built in 1666 and was the first of
its kind in Taiwan. The complex contains over a dozen buildings,
including the school known as Taiwan’s First Academy. A short
walk away is the Koxinga Shrine, which is dedicated to the Ming
Dynasty loyalist who expelled the Dutch from Taiwan in 1662.
Kaohsiung / The Star of Qianzhen Bikeway
The Star of Qianzhen bike bridge is not only one of the best places
to watch the Kaohsiung skyline at night; the curvy, organically-
designed structure itself becomes a stunning illuminated sculpture
that’s magical to ride through. The bridge connects three major bike
paths, and also connects to Kaohsiung’s light rail system as well as to a
KMRT station, where YouBikes are available for rent.
From the bridge, follow Kaisyuan Road southwest to reach the
Dream Mall (www.dream-mall.com.tw), the largest shopping mall in
Taiwan and home to the 102.5m-tall Eye of Kaohsiung Ferris wheel,
which provides panoramic views of the city and ocean. From here, you
can get on the 6km-long West Harbor Line Bike Path, which heads
toward The Pier-2 Art Center and other attractions.
Head northeast and you’ll arrive at the Kaisyuan and Jinzuan
night markets, which combine to make the largest night market in
Taiwan. There are over 1,000 stalls to choose from – try not to get
overwhelmed!
Finally, follow the Qianzhen Canal southeast and you’ll come to
the Taroko Park (www.tarokopark.com.tw), a mall and a fun-filled
theme park featuring F1 race car-style go-carts on a 600m track, a
bowling alley, minigolf, sports facilities, an innovative kids play area,
and way more. It’s impossible to get bored here, as there’s something
for everyone.

KAOHSIUNG
The Pier2 Art Center

17
CITY
The Star of Qianzhen Bikeway

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Museum of Drinking Water KAOHSIUNG

44 South Village 四四南村 自來水博物館 HARBOR Jinzuan
Art Museum Parkway 美術園道 Sanxia River 三峽河 Night Market
Kaisyuan
Bitan 碧潭 Shennong Street 神農街
Dream Mall
Bull-horn bread 牛角麵包 Taichung Art Boulevard Night Market
Dahan River 大漢溪 台中美術綠園道 The Star of 183
Gongguan (Waterfront Plaza) 公館 ( 水岸廣場 ) The Star of Qianzhen Bikeway Qianzhen Bikeway
Guting Riverside Park 古亭河濱公園 前鎮之星自行車道
Hayashi Department Store 林百貨 Treasure Hill 寶藏巖
Huajiang Bridge 華江橋 Xindian River 新店溪 Taroko Park
Koxinga Shrine 延平郡王祠 Zhongzheng Riverside Park
Meili Park Bikeway 美麗公園自行車道 中正河濱公園
TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 35
 QU ICK CIT Y TOU R / K AOHSI U NG

TOURING
Start
KAOHSIUNG 17
1

A Quick Look at Some of the Harbor City’s Best Attractions

Zuoying
Shoushan
1
MRT 25min.
HSR Zuoying Station
17
Sizihwan/
3hrs
Hamasen

National
MRT 2min. Sun Yat-Sen
University “Po Po “Da Pang Grilled
Shaved Ice” Sandwiches”
Yancheng/ Takao Yanchengpu
Penglai 2hrs Railway Station Love River
Xizi Bay
Museum Penglai
Pier-2
Sizihwan Pier-2
Station Love Pier Station
MRT 4min. The Pier-2 Glory Pier
KW2
Art Center
British Consulate Love Pier Sanduo Shopping
Love Pier/ at Takow District Station
1hr
Glory Pier Sanduo Shopping District

Kaohsiung Exhibition 85 Sky Tower

Center Station
MRT 6min. Kaohsiung Public
Library
Singuang Riverside Park
Kaohsiung
Exhibition 1hr
Center

Walk 15min.
TE X T & PHOTOS V I S ION

Taiwan’s third-largest city, Kaohsiung is best known for its harbor, the
Sanduo
Shopping 2hrs island’s largest. Because of this busy facility, the city’s urban core for
District a long time had a predominantly industrial and blue-collar character.
But times have changed, and Kaohsiung has today become a tourist
magnet with many exciting sightseeing attractions on offer.

I
f you intend to rely on public transport when visiting Kaohsiung, note that the city’s Taiwan
High Speed Rail station is located in the Zuoying District, a few kilometers north of the
urban center, while the conventional-railway station is smack in the heart of downtown. Both
stations give you easy access to the metro system, the KMRT (Kaohsiung Metro; www.krtc.com.
tw), which has two lines (Red and Orange), and which in turn is connected to the LRT (Light
Rail System, one line). Many of the city’s tourist attractions can be conveniently reached by taking
the trains of these two systems.

36 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 QU ICK CIT Y TOU R / K AOHSI U NG

Sizihwan/Hamasen Stations Love Pier Station/Glory Pier Station

Taking the Orange Line of the KMRT to its western terminus, Between these two LRT stations, trains pass a bridge crossing the
Sizihwan Station, or the LRT to Hamasen Station, brings you close Love River, close to where the river merges with the waters of the
to a number of places of interest, including the Takao Railway harbor. You can walk across the same bridge and take in the views
Museum (trm.tw), The British Consulate at Takow (britishconsulate. of the river, which are especially enchanting in the evening when the
khcc.gov.tw), National Sun Yat-Sen University (www.nsysu.edu.tw), bridges across the waterway are colorfully illuminated. The Love Pier,
and Xizi Bay (Sizihwan). The last is a popular spot for watching the to the south of the bridge, is dominated by a decorative structure
sun set over the Taiwan Strait. There is a small dark-sand beach here; featuring two large sails, a popular place to take pictures.
when facing the sea, you will see the northern entrance to Kaohsiung
Harbor to the left and Shoushan (Longevity Mountain) to the right.
Sanduo Shopping District/Kaohsiung
Yanchengpu/Penglai Pier-2 Stations Exhibition Center Stations
Take the KMRT to Yanchengpu Station or the LRT to Penglai Pier- To see the ultra-modern side of Kaohsiung, take the LRT to
2 Station and you are just a short walk away from a cluster of old Kaohsiung Exhibition Center Station. Between the station and the
harborside warehouses that have been transformed into spaces for art exhibition center is the spacious Singuang Riverside Park, a great
exhibitions and characterful shops and restaurants. On the grounds place for taking photographs, especially with the 85 Sky Tower as
of The Pier-2 Art Center (pier2.org) you will see many interesting backdrop. The tower is one of the landmarks of the city, and the
installation artworks, and many of the warehouses have large murals, best destination for eagle-eye views over the whole city (there is an
perfect for taking pictures. observatory on floors 74/75). Another modern, and green, building in
R ight by the harbor is K W2, a warehouse that has been the area is the Kaohsiung Public Library (www.ksml.edu.tw), a place
transformed into a modern shopping and dining space, with vendors to sit down and relax in a stylishly designed space.
selling designer items and eateries serving yummy dishes. Just a few blocks northeast is Kaohsiung’s well-known Sanduo
The Yancheng District is an old Kaohsiung neighborhood known Shopping District (KMRT Sanduo Shopping District Station), home
for its delicious snack foods. Walk the lanes and alleys north of to a number of large department stores, arguably your best bet in the
Yanchengpu Station and you’ll come across many of the locals’ city for going on a shopping spree.
favorite eateries, including “Da Pang Grilled Sandwiches” and “Po
Po Shaved Ice.”

ENGLISH AND CHINESE

85 Sky Tower 85 大樓
British Consulate at Takow 打狗英國領事館 National Sun Yat-sen University 中山大學
"Da Pang Grilled Sandwiches" 大胖碳烤三明治 "Po Po Shaved Ice" 婆婆冰
Kaohsiung Exhibition Center 高雄展覽館 Sanduo Shopping District 三多商圈
Kaohsiung Public Library 高雄市立圖書館總館 Sizihwan (Xizi Bay) 西子灣
KW2 棧貳庫 Takao Railway Museum 舊打狗驛故事館
Love Pier 真愛碼頭 The Pier-2 Art Center 駁二藝術特區
Love River 愛河 Yancheng District 鹽埕區

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 37
 The modern second building
of the Tainan Art Museum

Rich
Culture
New
Aesthetics
There Has Never Been a Better Time to Visit Tainan
TE X T STE V E N CROOK PHOTOS AS K A CHI , V I S ION

Tainan is a city with an essence that

T
here’s a good reason why Travel in Taiwan keeps coming
back to Tainan. In fact, there are several. For a start, it’s
never seems to change, yet somehow rightly said that you cannot hope to understand Taiwan
gets better and better. Taiwan’s political unless you spend some time in the former capital. Tainan’s long
and economic capital for more than 200 history has given it a rich culture and a degree of self-confidence
that Taipei, the current capital, can’t quite equal.
years, until 1885, it’s rightly regarded
as a bastion of traditional culture. In Like many old cities, roads in the core tend to be narrow, so
its heart, the density of shrines and using buses, the local bike-sharing scheme, and your legs to get
around is strongly recommended. Possibly because so many
sites of historic importance is nothing of them have spent their lives residing in high-density low-rise
short of astonishing. But there’s much neighborhoods, Tainan folks are exceptionally friendly.
Compared to Taipei, less English is spoken in Tainan, but
more to Tainan than preservation of the
this is changing fast. Not only is an influx of internationally-
past. In recent years a strong hipster minded young people reinvigorating the old heart of the city,
aesthetic has taken root. Artists and but the local government has declared English to be the second
official language. In this sense, for those coming from afar,
entrepreneurs have repurposed all kinds there’s never been a better time to explore Tainan – and the
of old buildings as galleries, homestays, food, as it always has been, is superb.
and cafés. For those who like to wander For Taiwanese visitors and tourists from other parts of Asia,
Tainan’s “little eats” (xiao chi)) have long been a key attraction.
side streets and back alleys, it’s one of Now, thanks to global media interest and reports in various
Asia’s most rewarding destinations. languages, Tainan’s street food has become far more accessible
to all international travelers, even if you can’t read a single
Chinese character. Come, see, and eat!

38 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 FU N TR IP PL A N / TA IN A N

PLACES TO VISIT
Tainan Art Museum Building 2
Fe w proje c t s e mb o d y t he c it y ’s addition to modern twists on ancient
effortless melding of old and new themes, there are unusual items that
better than the Tainan Art Museum. will delight aficionados of temple art.
The museum’s Building 1 is an Art Where else, for instance, can you pore
Deco-influenced former police station over preliminary sketches drawn by
that dates from the period of Japanese Pan Li-shui, the most famous temple
colonial rule. Building 2, by contrast, painter of the 20th century?
is a striking purpose-built structure. Among the exhibits upstairs is a
It’s been variously likened to a mockup hall given over to four key Taiwanese
for a base on Mars and to a ziggurat. artists, among them Chen Cheng-
The four galleries on the first floor po. There’s also a resource center with
of Building 2 are devoted to works hundreds of art books and periodicals,
that exemplify or were inspired by not to mention good views over the TAINAN ART MUSEUM BUILDING 2
Taiwan’s traditional religious arts. Tainan Judicial Museum on the south ( 台南市立美術館二館 )
Of course, in Tainan you needn’t go side of Fuqian Road. (06) 221-8881
far to find places of worship which Standard admission to the museum is No. 1, Sec. 2, Zhongyi Rd., Central West
District, Tainan City
( 台南市中西區忠義路二段 1 號 )
overflow with breathtaking paintings NT$100; the same ticket can be used for
a nd woodc a r v i ng s. But here, i n Building 1 and Building 2. www.tnam.museum (Chinese)

The Spring
A nd from the ruins arose … an empty space?
When the authorities decided to demolish Tainan
Chinatown, a mall built in the early 1980s, they
engaged Dutch architects MVRDV to bring more
greenery into the heart of the city and turn the site
into a plaza with a difference. Taking advantage
of what used to be the mall’s basement, the design
team created 1.54ha of public space below street
level. Road traffic is thus out of sight, and mostly
out of earshot.
A selection of the old building’s beams and
columns have been left in place. Between these
whitewashed remnants, an undulating roughcast
surface has been laid. The height differences aren’t
there purely for aesthetic reasons, but calculated so
water accumulates into a miniature lagoon complete
with tree-studded islets. The pool is shallow and kept
sparkling clean so that youngsters can safely splash
around. When the sun is strong, the most popular
section of The Spring is that directly below Jinhua
Road. During the warmer months people flock here
after dark.
T he Spring is open from 9a m to 9:30pm
Wednesday to Monday; admission and use of the on-
site changing rooms is free. Like all sizable modern
and modernized attractions in Taiwan, it has barrier-
free facilities as well as conventional restrooms.

THE SPRING ( 河樂�場 )

At the intersection of Sec. 3, Jinhua Road and
Zhongzheng Road
The Spring is a new park designed by www.facebook.com/TheSpring.Tainan/
Dutch artchitects

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 39
FU N TR IP PL A N / TA IN A N

PLACES TO EAT
Qing Shui Tang
Qing Shui Tang’s refreshing aiyu-based desserts
have won island-wide fame, so expect to queue
before you can sit down. If this is your only chance
to try aiyu jelly – it’s almost never seen outside
Taiwan – it’s certainly worth the wait, especially
if you want to sample some of this chain eatery’s Aiyu jelly paired
with fresh fruit
unique innovations. and tapioca balls
But first, what exactly is aiyu? A pear-sized fig
that grows in Taiwan’s mid-elevation mountains,
it’s picked by indigenous villagers, then dried. After
soaking, the seeds are squeezed through a straining
bag. The pectin thus released turns into a jelly with
a mild yet pleasant taste.
Most aiyu vendors do little more than add a
dash of honey and a few slices of lime. But at Qing QING SHUI TANG ( 清水堂 )
Shui Tang they’re much more ambitious, serving 0976-554-730
extravaga nt combinations of aiyu with boba, No. 305, Zhongzheng Rd.,Central
West District, Tainan City
matcha, mango, strawberries, and/or taro paste. For
( 台南市中西區中正路 305 號 )
an extra layer of gustatory experience, say yes when
the staff ask if you’d like a trickle of soda or beer
poured into the mix.

Check the day of the week before ordering

congee at Warm Food

Warm Food
C on g e e (t h ic k , nou r i s h i n g s oup m a de
with rice) is a common breakfast food in
Taiwan, but few people make it quite
so well a s Wa rm Food ’s young a nd
commendably hardworking owner/chef.
From 7:30am to 10:30am, Monday
to Saturday, he’s here, a stone’s throw
from the Taiwan Fu City God Temple,
serving comforting bowls of congee to a
stream of eat-in and take-out customers.
Later, in the same small space he sells
rice-based lunches and dinners under a
different business name, Oh My Hut.
At Warm Food, Monday means cabbage
congee. On Tuesday and Friday, the key ingredient
is taro. On Wednesday, he cooks up daikon congee. For
seasonal vegetables, you should come on Thursday or
Saturday. This writer dropped by one Friday and was
most impressed by the savory, satisfying combination of
taro and rice, flavored with pepper, tiny strips of pork,
slivers of squid, and sliced mushroom. A big bowl will
WARM FOOD ( 一碗小粥 )
keep you going until lunchtime. 0985-516-927
No. 79, Wanchang St., Central West District,
Tainan City ( 台南市中西區萬昌街 79 號 )

40 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 FU N TR IP PL A N / TA IN A N

Ubuntu doesn't
overwhelm visitors
with printed words

UBUNTU BOOKSTORE ( 烏邦圖書店 )

(06) 222-6919
2F, No. 27, Ln. 129, Huanhe St., Central West District, Tainan City
( 台南市中西區環河街 129 巷 27 號 2 樓 )

BOOKS & COFFEE

Ubuntu Bookstore
Between the early 17th and late 19 th centuries, Tainan’s
growth was driven by maritime trade. Vessels loaded rice,
sugar, and other commodities at docks alongside the “five
channels” that reached deep into the city center. Over
time these waterways became choked with silt. To provide
drainage, the Tainan Canal was excavated during the
period of Japanese rule.
Thanks to government investment, the streets that
abut the canal have become much more attractive in
recent times. Ubuntu Bookstore, located above an art
gallery, is in one such desirable neighborhood.
Unlike some bookshops, Ubuntu doesn’t overwhelm
visitors with printed words. Rather, it presents a carefully
curated selection of Chinese-language books, the vast
majority being nonfiction. The travel, photography,
history, and wellness shelves are particularly well-stocked;
there are also some children’s books.
If you don’t read Chinese, there’s still one good reason
to come here. Almost half of the floor space is set aside
for those who like to pair books with coffee. Prices for
the coffees, teas, and other hot beverages, craft beers, and
desserts are much the same as in other coffee shops, but
the view – over the canal and the Yunhexingzuan Park on
the far bank – is well above par.
TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 41
 FU N TR IP PL A N / TA IN A N

PLACES TO STAY
UIJ Hotel & Hostel
One of the most stylish recent additions to the city’s skyline,
the UIJ Hotel & Hostel is a multistory inn that offers
several types of accommodation. Tourists can book bunk
beds in mixed or women-only dormitories, or one of the 87
guestrooms. Among the latter is a top-notch 52 square meter
suite, which faces the Tainan Art Museum Building 2.
Rather than draw too obviously on motifs and materials
that everyone associates with Tainan, the hotel’s designers
have had the confidence to avoid gimmicks and go for a
modern yet warm look. Inside the dormitories, you’ll see
undressed red-brick walls, partitions made of unvarnished
wood, and canvas privacy curtains. Guestrooms feature
unobtrusive fittings and dark-wood floors.
The UIJ has received exceptional reviews from guests,
and not just because it’s ultra-convenient if you plan to visit
the Hayashi Department Store, Tainan Confucius Temple,
and other key attractions. Those who’ve stayed here praise its
cleanliness, the quality of the complimentary breakfast, and
the staff’s willingness to help.
A lso much liked is the third-f loor indoor/outdoor
common area. Here, guests can make a hot beverage, or – and
this often happens in the street-food mecca that is Tainan –
enjoy the delicious snacks they’ve carried back from a night
market, without the odor lingering in their bedchamber.
When so much thought and effort has been put into getting
the rooms just right, you wouldn’t want to do anything that
makes your experience less than perfect, would you?

UIJ HOTEL & HOSTEL ( 友愛街旅館 )

(06) 221-8188
No. 5, Ln. 115, You'ai St., Central West District,
Tainan City ( 台南市中西區友愛街 115 巷 5 號 )
uij.com.tw

UIJ Hotel & Hostel's

designers had the
confidence to avoid
gimmicks and go for a
modern yet warm look

42 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 FU N TR IP PL A N / TA IN A N

Light Hostel
No myster y surrounds the popularit y of the guests can kick back on one of the sofas or fix
Light Hostel’s Tainan branch. It offers clean and themselves a snack in the kitchen. That said, if
comfortable, yet attractively-priced, sleeping you stayed here it’s hard to imagine you’d opt to
quarters at a central location. hang out much, given how many attractions lie
Backpackers on a budget can book beds in the within a 10-minute walk. In one direction, there’s
six-person dormitories. For those who seek greater The Spring; in another, the Tainan Art Museum
privacy or like to sleep in, there are rooms with Building 2. You’d also be near the Guohua Street
one or two double beds. Each room has its own foodie paradise, and within strolling distance of
toilet and shower, and all options include a simple stops where you can board the No. 2 bus to visit
gratis breakfast of toast, jam, fruit, and hot drinks. the historic Anping Old Fort area.
The f irst f loor is a communal area where

Light Hostel offers clean and comfortable sleeping quarters at a central location

LIGHT HOSTEL ( 承億青旅 )

West Central Dist.

(06) 224-0555
No. 20, Ln. 309, You'ai St., Central West District, Ubuntu
Tainan City ( 台南市中西區友愛街 309 巷 20 號 ) Bookstore
www.lighthostel.com

ENGLISH AND CHINESE Warm Food

The Spring
aiyu 愛玉
Chen Cheng-po 陳澄波

Qing Shui Tang

Confucius Temple 台南孔子廟
"five channels" 五條港
Fuqian Road 府前路
17甲
U.I.J Hotel
Guohua Street 國華街

Light Hostel & Hostel

Hayashi Department Store 林百貨
Jinhua Road 金華路
Pan Li-shui 潘麗水
182
Tainan Canal 台南運河
Tainan Chinatown 臺南中國城 Tainan Art
Tainan Judicial Museum 司法博物館 Museum
Taiwan Fu City God Temple 台灣府城隍廟 (Building 2)
The Spring 河樂廣場
xiao chi 小吃
Yunhexingzuan Park 運河星鑽公園

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 43
TE X T RYA N HE V E RN
PHOTOS RYA N HE V E RN , V I S ION

Yilan County, with its emerald paddy

fields spread out over a vast plain
between tall mountains and the Pacific
Ocean, is a must-visit destination in
northeast Taiwan. Jiaoxi Township,
located in the north of the county, is
especially attractive. Best known for
its odorless hot springs, the township
also has a more adventurous side for
travelers to enjoy. The hike up Mt.
Sanjiaolun, following the Marian Hiking
Trail, has become extremely popular in
recent years. The mountain’s southwest
slope, covered in silvergrass and arrow
bamboo, has the color of Japanese
powder tea (matcha), which is the reason
why the mountain has become known
simply as Matcha Mountain in Taiwan.

O
ne of Taiwan’s better-k nown hot-spring
de st i nat ion s, Jiaox i, i s now at t rac t i ng
countless visitors with its combination of
pristine environment and several fine options for hiking
outings. Apart from Mt. Sanjiaolun, there are also
the Wufengqi Scenic Area, Linmei Shipan Trail, and
Paoma Historic Trail.

Hiking in Jiaoxi’s mountains can be easily combined

with relaxing hot-spring baths at a quality hotel, and
since getting there from central Taipei is convenient,
the area is perfect for one-day trips from the capital.
The hike up Matcha Mountain rewards you with
incredible scenery, and also has an interesting religious
component. With a unique Catholic church at the start
of the hike and a “Christian” hut below the peak of Mt.
Sanjiaolun, hiking the trail has become somewhat of a

Matcha M
pilgrimage for hikers of faith.

The Marian Hut was built in 1977 by an Italian monk,

Br. Luigi Pavanat, who worked for 20 years in Yilan’s
Camillian Saint Mary’s Hospital Luodong and was
in love with Taiwan’s mountains. In 1980, a group of
hikers met bad weather on a hike to Mt. Sanjiaolun,
and took shelter in the hut. Five of the hikers decided
to descend the mountain in the dark. On the way
down they saw the image of a woman in a long white
robe, which they regarded as being an apparition of
the Virgin Mary. The church at the start of the hike,
known as the Catholic Sanctuary of Our Lady of
Wufengqi, was built years later close to the location of
the apparition.
A Popular Hike in Yilan’s Jiaoxi Township
GREEN TEA SLOPES
Hikers are rewarded with enchanting mountain scenery
after completing the strenous Marian Hiking Trail

44 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
 PREPARATION
E A S Y SCENIC TR A IL S / JI AOXI

The Marian Hiking Trail is suitable for most hikers with moderate fitness, but
that doesn’t mean it isn’t strenuous. While beautiful photos on the mountain are
almost guaranteed, be prepared to sacrifice a large amount of sweat to get there
(especially during the hot summer months).
It takes about five hours to get from the car park in the Wufengqi Waterfall
area to the Marian Hut. Just above the hut is a platform with a statue of Jesus on
the cross from where you have the best views. The easy-to-follow route has a total
length of 5.6km. It consists of a long easy-grade gravel path, a steep-step section
through forest, and a dirt path section up along arrow bamboo slopes.
Bring a lot of water when it’s hot, as the only refill option along the trail is a
mountain stream. Yilan’s weather can be quite unpredictable, and it’s often wet
in the mountains. Be sure to pack a hat, sunscreen, a light rain jacket, snacks,
and some sturdy shoes! Also, since Mt. Sanjiaolun is often covered in clouds, do
your best to pick a clear-sky day; otherwise you might not be able to see the big
vistas once you have reached the top.

Mountain
 THE HIKE
Mt. Sanjiaolun The hike begins at the Wufengqi Scenic Area car park. You
can first walk up to the three-tier Wufengqi Waterfall (look
Marian Cabin for the signposted stairs on the right side of the main path), or
you can follow the winding paved road uphill straight ahead.
A path connects the waterfall area with this road just below
the Catholic church. At the church you want to look down to
the Lanyang Plain to get a first taste of what you will later see
from much higher up. You can take a look inside the beautiful
Tongtian Bridge round church and view a statue of the Virgin Mary in a man-
made cave beside the building.

After this, follow the steep road behind the church, which
soon becomes a gravel path that brings you to the proper
trailhead at the Tongtian Bridge. The trail first follows a
mountain stream through lush forest. During hot weather
many hikers will opt to sit by the stream, soaking their feet in
Wufengqi
the cooling water.
Waterfalls
Meandering through the luxuriant forest, the well-
Catholic maintained path takes you past rich vegetation. It’s a steep
Church climb, with a change in elevation of about 400m. While for
the first kilometer or so you can enjoy the tree shade, the
higher up you go the more the forest opens up. Along the
last few hundred meters before reaching the Marian Hut
Wufengqi
you’ll be surrounded by arrow bamboo, which blankets the
car park
mountainside, and you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking
unobstructed views of the Lanyang Plain when looking back.
 E A S Y SCENIC TR A IL S / JI AOXI

Just above the Marian Hut lies the main attraction on this
hike, the rolling matcha-like slopes of Mt. Sanjiaolun, covered in
arrow bamboo and silvergrass. When the silvergrass sways in the
wind, this becomes an even more mesmerizing landscape. The hut
itself is a welcome shelter during unfavorable weather, a place with
running water, toilets, and even benches to lie down on.
A short distance above the hut is the viewing platform at the
end of the trail, reached by climbing a set of steep steps. The large
Jesus on the cross statue stands in the center of the platform,
from where you can enjoy stunning 360 degree views of the
surrounding verdant mountains, the Lanyang Plain, and the
RELIGION AND HISTORY Pacific Ocean in the far distance.
Make sure to learn about the touching
story of Italian monk, Br. Luigi Pavanat For those who want an extended and more strenuous hike,
when hiking up Matcha Mountain another trail section continues further up to the peak of Mt.
Sanjiaolun. Add at least another hour to your hike if this is the
path you choose.
Tip: Take your time hiking down the staired sections to preserve
your knees! If you choose to hike on a hot summer day, make sure to
TRAIL-SIDE REFRESHMENT relax in the stream for a bit to cool off.
Cold stream water right by the trail
is the perfect remedy for hot feet
after the long hike

TR AVEL I N TAIWAN 47
E A S Y SCENIC TR A IL S / JI AOXI

AFTER THE HIKE

The town of Jiaoxi offers two outdoor free-entry hot-
spring parks. The Tangweigou Hot Spring Park is
located on Jiaoxi Road, just a short walk from the
town’s railway station. The Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park is
adjacent to the Jiaoxi bus station. There are hot-spring
pools in both parks allowing you to dip your feet in
comfortably warm water.
The Tangweigou Hot Spring Park has a hot-spring
creek running right through it. Surrounding the
park’s foot-bath pool area are various food stalls with
a variety of options, including one of Yilan’s most
popular specialty items: green scallion pancakes! To
go along with the food stalls, take a walk around and
find a handful of craft beer vendors selling locally
brewed beer.
In the surrounding area, for a small fee you can also
dip your feet in one of the popular “fish spas,” where
tiny fish will nibble at your feet, eating the dead skin.
It tickles, but doesn’t hurt, and is quite the unique
experience to tell your friends and family about!
HOT-SPRING PLEASURES
Jiaoxi is a well-known hot-spring town with parks
offering free foot bath pools

RAKUZAN RAMEN RESTAURANT

One of the most unique dining experiences in Taiwan is to be had in Jiaoxi. Combine ENGLISH AND CHINESE
eating ramen with a hot-spring foot bath! At the Rakuzan Ramen Restaurant, near the Catholic Sanctuary of Our Lady of Wufengqi
五峰旗聖母朝聖地
Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park, you can choose to sit outside and enjoy a nice hot-spring foot soak Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park 礁溪溫泉公園
while eating delicious ramen paired with Japanese beer. What might seem like a gimmicky Lanyang Plain 蘭陽平原
restaurant at first glance actually is a fine establishment offering a great menu with Linmei Shipan Trail 林美石磐步道
mouthwatering ramen, Japanese-style fried-pork dishes, as well as an array of Marian Hiking Trail 聖母登山步道
Marian Hut 聖母山莊
good sashimi and other seafood options.
Matcha Mountain 抹茶山
After a long day of walking in the Jiaoxi mountains, it is Mt. Sanjiaolun 三角崙山
a real treat to feel the natural healing effects of mineral Paoma Historic Trail 跑馬古道
hot springs on your feet and legs while indulging the Pinglin 坪林
stomach with tasty food and beers. Tangweigou Hot Spring Park 湯圍溝溫泉公園
Tongtian Bridge 通天橋
Note: There are two Rakuzan Ramen Restaurant Wufengqi Scenic Area 五峰旗風景區
locations in Jiaoxi. Only the branch near the Jiaoxi Wufengqi Waterfall 五峰旗瀑布
Hot Spring Park offers the foot bath experience.

RAKUZAN RAMEN RESTAURANT

( 樂山溫泉拉麵 )
(03) 988-8637
No. 20, Gongyuan Rd., Jiaoxi Township,
Yilan County
( 宜蘭縣礁溪鄉公園路 20 號 )
www.facebook.com/
LeShanWenQuanLaMianErDian/

48 TR AVEL IN TAIWAN
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