GENERAL CONSTRUCTION NOTES This instruction book, when used in conjunction with the photos and Plans, will permit you to build your new R/C Sailplane with little or no trouble. Before you start construction, look over the plans and photos while reading through the instruction book. Learn the name of each part and where it fits in the completed model. You will need the following tools, parts and supplies. 1. Radio control system (2 or more channels) 2. Monokote covering material & sealing iron (Top Flight brand) 3. Clevis with threaded rod (2) (Carl Goldberg brand) 4. Nylon hinges (2) (Carl Goldberg brand) 5. 1/16" diameter piano wire (6 inches) 6. Wilhold Aliphatic Resin Glue 7. Straight pins 8. Rubber bands, Size #64 9. Flat building board (%"", 2 x 4 foot plywood) 10. X-acto knife 11. Tack hammer 12. Wax paper 13. Sandpaper (120 grit) (1 sheet) 14. Masking tape 15. 1/16", 3/32" & 3/16 diameter drills 16. 1/16" plywood (for power plane version) 17. 5 minute Epoxy 18. Hobby Poxy #2 Be sure the surface you build the plane on is flat. A curved building board will result in a curved airplane. Glue the sandpaper to a 3%" x 2%’ x 9” board and use this tool as a sanding block for shaping parts Let’s start construction! 1 INNER WING PANEL 1. Tape the drawing of the left wing panel to the work su a sheet of wax paper over this drawing, 2. Pin the leading edge in place over the plan. Use a wing rib as a tool to position the trailing edge the proper distance from the leading edge and pin the trailing edge in place. (Photo #1) 3. Bevel the spars, as shown in section B-B on the plans, and pin the spars in place. 4. Glue and pin the wing ribs in place (W4-1, W4-2 & Wa-S. Rib 'W4-4 is glued into the outer wing panel so do not install it at Note the 1/16" scrap balsa shims under ribs W4-1. (Photo #2; located on the center line of the wing (W4-1) is tilted slightly template to establish the correct angle. See Photo #3 as an © Page 1 COPYRIGHT 1976 MARK’S Mi 5I) OUTER WING PANEL ‘4, Bevel the ends of the leading and trailing edges at rib W4-4 ang align them with the leading and trailing edges of the wing center section, Use the tip rib (W4-10) to align the leading and trailing edges over the plan at the wing tip. 2. Trim off the small end, trailing edge end, of wing ribs W4-5, 6, 7, 8 & 9 to fit between the leading and trailing edges. 3. Cut the angle template from the plan and use it to position rib Wé-4 at the proper angle. (Photo #3) 4. Pin the spar in place and glue and pin the ribs in place. Be sure the spar is tight against the inner wing panel spar. lll WING PANEL ASSEMBLY 1. With the inner wing pane! pinned flat on the work surface and the outer wing panel in place, (Photo #4) raise the wing tip until the bottom of tip rib W4-10 is 3 3/8 inches above the work surface, if rib W4-4 is not down tight on the work surface check the bevel of the tip spar. (Photo #5 & #6) 2. Glue the tip spar and the main spar together and raise the tip as in Step 1. Glue and pin the leading and trailing edges together. 3. Gover the center section of the wing with 1/16" sheet balsa, top and bottom, over 3 ribs (W4-1) 4. Trim off the excess 1/16” sheet and use a sanding block to provide a smooth surface, flush with the root rib, where the inner panels jain together. Bevel this surface to provide a tight joint when the wing panels are joined together. §. Glue the wing tip block in place and shape to the cross section shown on the plans (Photo #7 & #8) Section A-A. 6. Build the right wing panel using the same procedure as the left panel. 7. Shape the leading edges to the cross-section shown on the plans. Sand the entire wing structure so there will be smooth surfaces for the covering materials. 8. Glue the wing panels together using the same procedure as used in Step 1 and 2. Ralse the wing panel until the bottom of rib W4-4 is 2% inches above the work surface. (Photo #9) When the glue is dry coat the wing center section joint with Hobby Poxy #2. Make this coat of epoxy a little wider than the fiber glass tape. While the epoxy is still fluid, lay the tape on the epoxy and push the tape firmly down into the epoxy. Wrap the tape around the wing center section joint, top and bottom of the wing and smooth out the epoxy with your finger. Coat the glass tape with more epoxy (Photo #10), 5 minute Epoxy may be used to ‘‘tack"’ the fiberglass in Page210. Cut 1"” wide x 2’’ long pieces of glass cloth and epoxy these in Place where the leading and trailing edges of the outer and inner wing Panels join. Coat the trailing edge, near the wing center section, with 1" wide glass cloth to prevent the rubber bands that hold the wing to the fuselage from cutting into the trailing edge. 11. Smooth the cured epoxy with sandpaper and cover the wing. Use Monokote to cover your plane. Please do not use any of the other brands of plastic film covering. Use a Monokote iron to press the film to each rib. Do not use a heat gun. IV STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR 1. Place wax paper over the plan. 2. Pin down the 3/16” x .95” trailing edge of stabilizer 3. Cut and sand the stab tips to fit between the leading and trailing edges. (Photo #11) Pin the tip pieces in place over the plan, but do not glue them in place at this time. 42 Cut and sand the stab center pieces (3/16" x .95"") to fit. Pin in place over the plan. Use the fin to space the center pieces the proper distance from each other. 5. Cut and sand the stab leading edge pieces. Check the joints where the tips and center pieces contact the leading edges. Correct any bad fit by sanding the part that is in error When all the parts fit, glue and pin the assembly over the plan. 6. Fit the 3/16” square ribs and glue and pin them in place. 7. Notch the elevators to fit the 3/16"' square hardwood tie bar. 8. Pin and glue the elevators and tie bar in place over the plan. (Photo #12) 9. When the glue is dry on both the elevator and stab assemblies, place them on the work surface and draw the tip outline on the wood with a ball point pen. Cut the stab drawing out of the plans and use this as a pattern. Push two pins through the leading and trailing edges, on the center line of the stab, these holes will establish a permanent center line location. (Photo #13) >}0. Sand the leading edge and tips of the stab to the cross-section shown on the plans. Bevel the trailing edge of the stab as shown to permit the elevator to deflect downward without hitting the stab. Taper the elevator as shown on the plans and round off the tips. Leave the ing edge of the elevator square. Cut a 1/16"' wide slot in the elevator to fit the 1/16"" plywood trol horn (E4-1) Drill a 1/16” diameter hole in the control horn. Be and position the horn so the 1/16"’ hole is aligned with the hinge ° not glue the horn in place at this time. (Photo #14)42, Sand the stab and elevator lightly with fine sandpaper and cover these parts with Monokote. 13, Cut away the Monokote where the control horn fits into the slot Glue the horn in place. The hole in the horn should be aligned with the hinge line. (Photo #14) Attach the elevator to the stab with a strip of Monokote on the top surface. V_ FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION 4, Remove parts R4-1 and F4-7 from the 1/16" plywood die-cut fuselage doubler (F4-2). There will be an extra F4-7 part that is not needed. 2. Pin the right fuselage side over the plan. Glue and pin the 1/16" plywood doubler in place over the fuselage side. Be sure and slide the doubler forward so the front edge is aligned with the front edge of the fuselage side. Glue the 1/16"' x 1/4"" plywood stab support doublers in place. Draw lines across the right fuselage side to mark the position of the bulkheads. (Photo #15) 3. Don't make two identical fuselage sides. Be sure you make lett hand side and a right hand side. Repeat step 2 and make a left fuselage side. ‘4. Let the fuselage sides dry overnight before removing the pins. Pin the sides together and mark the positions of the bulkheads on the edge of the right fuselage side. Drill the 3/16" diameter holes for the wing dowels. 5. Erect the fuselage sides, inverted, over the top view, shown on the plans. Glue bulkhead F4-3 in place. Use masking tape to pull the fuselage side against the bulkhead and pin the fuselage sides to the work surface to assure alignment with the plans. Glue the remaining bulkheads, the 3/16” square tail post and 1/8"' x 1/4"' vertical braces at the tail, in place. (Photo #16) 6. Drill a 1/16” diameter pilot hole in the center of the tow hook block and the canopy retainer block and glue the tow hook block in place. If the block will not slip into the slots in the 1/16" plywood fuselage doubler, sand the sides and ends of the block until it slips into place. 7. Glue and pin the 3/16"' forward bottom sheet in place. Moisten the outer surface so the pieces will bend easier. If the front of the fuselage is not aligned over the plan, clamp it in position until the 3/16" sheet is added. (Photo #17) Glue and pin the 3/32"" rear fuselage botttom sheet in place. The grain runs lengthwise with the fuselage. If the balsa bulkheads tend to bend, use a 3/16"" square temporary brace pinned to the bulkhead to stiffen it. Once the 3/16" is glued to the bottom of the bulkhead, the 3/16” brace can be v Page 44a3Hs 26/8 oau 2 anus 20/6 ayaoomArd 91/1 ay 2 aaaue 2e/e om8. Remove the fuselage from the work surface, and trim the fuselage sides so the canopy block will fit in place. ‘'Tack" glue the canopy block in place on the fuselage with Ambroid cement. This cement will later be dissolved with acetone after the canopy is shaped. 9. If you are building the sailplane version, sand the front of the fuselage so the nose block will fit flush. Glue the nose block in place being careful not to glue it to the canopy. 10. If you decide to install an engine in your Wanderer, epoxy a 1/16"" plywood fire wall (not included in kit) to the 1/8" plywood bulkhead. The pattern for the fire wall is shown on the plans. Shape the canopy and nose block. Dissolve the Ambroid cement that has held the canopy in place, and glue the 1/8" dowel and 3/16"” square pieces to the canopy. To position the rear 3/16" square on the canopy, wedge the piece into the fuselage. Put glue on the 3/16" ‘Square and place the canopy on the glued surface. Reach inside the fuselage with your finger and push the 3/16” square tightly against the canopy. (Photo #18 & #19) 42. Glue the 3/32” sheet to the top of the fuselage between the and the canopy. Glue the hardwood block, for the canopy retai ‘ew, in place. (Photo #20) . Drill a 3/32" diameter clearance hole in the canopy hold-down b (F4-7) for the wood-screw, and attach the canopy hold-down tab. ush a straight pin through the 1/16" diameter pilot hole in the ood block and the 3/32" sheet top to locate the pilot hole in the a. (Photo #21) t slots in the rear of the fuselage for the push rods to exit. Use to locate the slots in the fuselage side. (Photo #22) id the push rods. Use the 3/16" square hardwood for the push hin strips of masking tape may be used to hold the wire parts to h rod while the 5 minute epoxy is curing. Lay the wire parts rawing to check them for the correct shape. 0s to the plywood fuselage doubler. If your radio will eas shown in the photos, place the components in the ie tail surfaces pinned in place on the fuselage, and components until the plane balances at the location When the radio is installed, attach the push rods make a final check of push rod length. Looking from , the rudder should move left when the transmitter to the left, the elevator should move up when ed toward the bottom of the transmitter. luselage, between the wing and the tail, with18. Remove the push rods, attach the canopy, and round off the corners of the fuselage. Monokote the fuselage. VIFIN AND RUDDER 4, Sand the leading and trailing edges of the fin and rudder to a radius. 2, Cut slots for the hinges. 3, Drill a 1/16” diameter hole in the rudder horn. (R4-1) 4, Cuta slot for the rudder horn. See stabilizer and elevator section 1V for location of horn in respect to rudder hinge line. (Photo #14) 5, Cut a notch in the rudder to clear the elevator tie bar. 6. Cover the fin and rudder with Monokote and remove the Monokote from over the hinge slots, the contro! horn slot and the area where the fin attaches to the stabilizer. 7»Glue the rudder horn in place. Vil FINAL ASSEMBLY ‘At this point the wing is complete, fuselage is covered and the tail surfaces are covered. We will now ‘‘Get it all together."* 1. Install the push rods. Cut away the Monokote where the rods exit from the fuselage. 2. Glue the fin in place on the stab. Be sure the fin is 90° to the stab, and the trailing edges of the fin and stab are aligned. Remove the Monokote from the stab where the stab attaches to the fuselage. 3. Glue the tail assembly to the fuselage. Sight from the front, rear and top of the plane to be sure the tail is on straight. Glue the 3/16” diameter dowels into the fuselage. . Glue the fuselage nose skid and tail skid in place. Cut away the kote where these parts contact the fuselage. (Photo #24 & 25) Glue the hinges into the fin and rudder. (int all exposed wood parts to match the plane’s color scheme. ch the wing with four #64 rubber bands, two on each side. controls to be sure the controls move in the correct direction n the transmitter control stick is moved. Pack crumpled paper paper around the radio components to absorb shock. e balance of the plane. Add weight to the nose or tail e balances at the location shown on the plans. (Photo #26) ‘any warps in the wing by twisting the wing in the yn of the warp and passing the wing across a hot flat hold the reverse twist. The monokote will soften and twist. This will take a bit of practice but it is fhe wing be free from any warps sit Page6Vill FLYING When your plane is balanced and the controls are checked you are ready to make the “‘big step”, that first flight. The best procedure is to find an experienced R/C pilot who can get your plane in the air and flying before you take over the controls. Go to the local hobby shop and ask the dealer for the location of the nearest R/C flying field, or the time and place of the local model airplane club meeting. If you live ina town where there is no modeling activity, there are national modeling organizations that you can join for information and assistance. The world of R/C soaring will open to you as you meet the men and women involved in our fine Hobby/Sport. So get out and fly your plane, Participate and enjoy. * AILERON—A hinged contro! surtace located at the trailing edge of the wing used to cause the aircraft to rotate about the longitudinal axis. _ AIRFOIL—A_winglike structure de- signed to obtain lift by the reaction of ing air upon its surfaces. .— Academy of Model Aeronautics. LE OF ATTACK—The angle at ch the wing chord strikes the air INCIDENCE—The angle of and horizontal tailplane ive to a common fuselage ready to fly. =A device used to ion of pushrod motion. structural member in d to strengthen and . Usually located 90 gitudinal axis. of the air foil Good Lift, K€ Puke @ Rod and Mark Smith GLOSSARY CANOPY—Transparent enclosure for the pilot. Model aircraft canopies are sometimes formed from balsa wood and painted to simulate a full scale canopy. CENTER OF GRAVITY—The point in an airplane where it will balance about any of its axis. In model airplanes we are primarily concerned with the fore and aft positions of the CG and not the Position of the CG along the vertical or lateral axis. €.G.—Center of Gravity CLEVIS—A clevis, as used in radio Control aircraft, is used to attach the Pushrods to the control surfaces. The Clevis is also threaded so that it can be used to make final, minute adjustment in the length of the pushrods. CONTROL HORN—Lever projecting from a control surface, such as. the rudder, to which is attached the control cable or pushrod from the radio control system servos.rats, usualy of shat balsa UT Perprecu s thatthe model so, Ma pny remove them from the oui ned and glue in place. Die cut snectot mes referred 10 a8 “die is $0 if the parts are not cut Mand clean sreEDRAL ANGLEWThe angie DIED py the wing panels where thoy it oe of neque used to sea DOPE ne paper o abies used Tor rat anpane cen BLeR Part of thestructure tha is OUBLER force asructral member ee ap TAPES fom oupTerial with adhesive on both oe Tnis product is available in Side thicknesses and widths, and is vara. atlach some radio "control use onents tothe aircraft structure. Sa ATOR—A horizontal contral sur- ELEWRinged to the stabilizer, used to {aco Mngt the tal in ght, thus rating the aircraft t0 pitch about the fateh as FAIRING—A partof the airplane whose Fan purpeee Is 10 reduce "aeo- era eg Poon Fevers son Tie fixed vertical stabilizer. fing, STREAMER OR PARACHUTE- Brightly colored fabric attached to the fw ling near the plane, This is used to fause drag on the tow line during faurch, thus assuring that the tow tine Wa side off the tow hook. The flag also Takes the end of the tow line visible to the pilt soe will Know when the plane is tree. FLAP—A moveable portion of the wing which can change lift characteristics of the airfoil FUSELAGE—The structure of an air- craft to whieh the wings and tail are attached. This structure usually houses the radio control system. GLIDER—A heavier-than-air unpower- ed aircraft that usually is of such low performance that it cannot rise above the launch point. GUSSET—Structural member used to ‘e-enforce the junction of two parts. HAND LAUNCH— The act of launching model eirraft from one’s hand. HAND TOW—The act of towing a ‘Model airplang aloft while holding the Communication Com- ssn] tow ting In one's hand and runnin while the” plane climbs. "to ao altitude. nh HISTART—A device used to launch » ‘model salplane. Ths device conan an elastic: member anda engi cf string, a metal ring for engaging not tow Nook of the aircraft, and stax ty fasten the end of the elastic member ty the ground LEADING EDGE—The forward edge of an airfoil or other body. LSF—League of Silent Flight MAN—Model Airplane News. NSS—National Soaring Society POLYHEDRAL—A type of dihedral in which the wing is divided into several different upward angles. PUSHRODS— Wood, nyion or fibergias members which transfer servo mations to the aircraft control systems. Stranded steel cable, housed in a tube, may also be used in model airplanes. R/C—Radio control RCM—Radio Control Modeler Maga- zine RIB—A chordwise member which main- tains the contour of the wing covering material or control surface and which may also act as a structural member. ROG—Rise off Ground RTC—Ready to Cover RUDDER—A vertical control surface, hinged to the vertical stabilizer and used to cause the aircraft to yaw about the vertical axis. SAILPLANE—A heavier than air, un- powered aircraft of such high’ per- formance that it can rise above the point where it is launched by soaring in rising air currents. SLOPE SOARING—The art of re maining aloft in an unpowered glider or sailplane by flying in the vertical sir currents caused by wind being deflected upward when it contacts the side of a hill or lif SPINNER—A conical or streamlined fairing over the hub of a propelier SPOILER—A device used to break up the flow of air over the wing thus decreasing the lift and increasing the drag SPAR—A principal spanwise structural member of a wing or stabilizer STABILATOR OR FLYING STABILIZ- ER—An all-moving horizontal ‘ail sur- face pivoted for control, as contrasted age’with the usual fixed stabilizer and Movable elevator STABILIZER—The fixed airfoil of an airplane used to increase stability: usually, the att fixed horizontal surface to which the elevators are hinged (horizontal stabilizer) and the fixed Vertical surface to which the rudder is hinged (vertical stabilizer) THERMAL SOARING—The art of re- ‘maining aloft in an unpowered sailplane by flying in rising currents of air caused by the differential heating of the earth's surface. TIE BAR—Structural member that con- ects the halves of a split elevator. TOW HOOK—A device used to secure the tow line to the aircraft during the launch. TRAILING EDGE—The rear edge of an airfoil or other member WASH IN—Opposite of wash out WASH OUT—A lesser angle of inci- dence. Usually a twist in the wing so that the wing tip flies at less angle of attack than the wing root. WHEEL PANTS—Stroamiined fairings over the wheels of an airplane. WINCH—Ground based device used to provide motive power for the sailplane during launch. WING LOADING—The weight of the aircraft per unit of wing area. With model aircraft the wing loading is expressed as ounces per square foot WING RUBBER—Rubber bands that secure the wings to the fuselage of some ‘model airplanes, WARNING del airplane may cause personal injury or property damese itis flown by an incompetent person or in hazardous manner fiying the plane hes never flown ssstance from 9 competent person, expe ‘radio control airplanes. If such a person fs not availabe, fly in an area where t cannot strike people or property