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2022-09-01 08:01 Sloppy Machanics Wiki- 41802 Information, technical sheets, buld inf, gudalinas
4180e Information,
technical sheets, build
info, guidelines
HD? kit Update and caution
recently we had a discussion on the sloppy page and people pointed out to me to not perform this
mod
"Grady Farrer: It's to solve over pressure conditions. It has you drill from 14 into 47. 47 is a void so
it’s easy to undo this mod if you've already done it
If torque signal fluid builds up too much pressure (tune. Worn valve. Epe, ete) then it will unseat
the trans go ball and exhaust the fluid.
This way you don't build up too much pressure and blow out snap rings or seals ete.
It’s a bad mod because if the transgo ball doesn't seal perfectly...or over time it wears out and
leaks...or gets cocked sideways ete...then it leaks torque signal fluid and causes horribly LOW line
pressure and cooks the trans
It doesn't really fix anything and there's a big risk to break shit. Moral of the story... don't do the
relief mod
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guidelines
 
 
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4.8/5.3 4L80E Swap & General Information
4L80E Differences:
'91 496: They are all pretty much the same. They were also known to have a crappy conector that
passes through the case. Most have had them updated by now, but there are still some that haven't
and might need replacing. They have the ‘older’ style lubrication, where both cooling lines are
behind the bellhousing. They also have larger overdrive roller clutch, usually came with a 16
clement sprag instead of the 36 element. The bellhouse bolt pattern is the traditional SBC/BBC
pattern. These early transmission also didnot have mounting holes for the manual lever
position switch (MLPS) ie. neutral safety switeh.
'94 -'96: These are the same as the earlier ones but with a few differences. It has an updated EPC
(electronic pressure control) solenoid. Some also had a longer shift shaft for the MLPS.
'97 -'99: These years have the ‘new’ style lubrication, where there is one oil cooler line behind the
bellhousing and the other being farther towards the back of the transmission, Also uses the
bellhousing bolt pattern of previous years.
“00 - °03: Same as previous years but bellhousing bolt pattern was changed to the LS style,
04 - up: Same as previous year with some minor valve body changes.
Gear Ratio:
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Flex plate:
You will need a flexplate and spacer from % ton GM truck that originally came with a 4L80E. Your
other option is, if you're going with an aftermarket torque converter anyways, is to have the torque
converter made with the correct offsets and mounting pads to bolt up to the stock 4.8/5.3 flex plate
Circle D can do this no problem. (https://www.cireledspecialties.com/)
GM Part Numbers:
19260102 FLYWHEEL
12563532 SPACER
19257940 BOLTS 6
PCM/Tuning:
If you're using the factory PCM this is pretty straight forward, just have it loaded with a 80e tune
from a Chevy Express 4.8/4L.80e or similar,
DIY Manual Valve Body:
Terminal pinout wires "A" and "B" from the pressure manifold are connected together and
connected to the ground side of "Shift Solenoid A". Terminal pinout wire " C" from the pressure
manifold is connected to the ground side of "Shift Solenoid "B". 12 Volts is supplied to the Pink
Wire on the outside of the trans .This will power up the shift solenoids as well as the lock up
solenoid. If you want to lock the converter you must run the Brown Wire on the outside of the trans
through a toggle switch to chassis ground.
Cooling lines:
“91 - “96 (SM=Straight Mechanical)
‘97 - Up (SM=Straight Mechanical)
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Note: They are straight thread without the taper normal pipe thread has. Also on later models (‘97
and up) the rear cooling line fitting has an extended tube that goes inside the transmission, looks
like so -
 
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4L60E to 4L80E Swap Wi
 
Conversion
 
Engine \smission Connector
 
Remove pins $ (WHT) and U (BRN).
Insert the Brown wire into positions.
The White wire is not used for the 4.806,
Alternative 1: Cut the two wres and solder the brown wire to the remaining write lead from pins.
Alternative 2: Remove the Brown wire from Pin 2 of the Greer/Red PCM connecior, Remove the
White wie from Pin 79 of the Blue PCM connector and insert it into position 2 of the Green/Red
connector.
 
 
2pin Metripak connector 12162194/12162195
This is new wiring os the 4L60E uses only the single VSS sensor.
Pin A must be connected fo Pin 22 of the Green/Red 80-Way PCM connector
Pin B must be connected to Pin23 of the Green/Red 80-Way PCM connector.
 
A A AAA
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S REN WT
E
     
  
 
 
    
 
    
 
SS)
ooo Oo
O CBA
    
Saa67t
 
Connector Part eee
Information * 20M Micro-Pack 100W
Series (GRY)
Function
1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve
 
Transmission
Solenoid Power
 
Transmission Fluid
Temperature (TFT)
Sensor Signal
1226
Torque Converter
8 BLK 418 | Clutch (TCC) Solenoid
Vian Pandit
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valve Lona!
Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch - C2
 
+ 12129840
+ 7-Way F Metri-pack 150 280
(MD GRY)
Cireult
No.
Park/Neutral Signal
275 Park Neutral Position
Switch Park Signal
| 839 | Ignition 1 Voltage
|_ 451 | Ground
Starter Relay Coil
Supply Voltage
Backup Lamp Supply
Voltage
41737 Neutral Safety Switch
Park/Neutral Signal2022-09-01 08:01 Sloppy Machanios Wiki- 41802 Information, technical shes, buld info, guidelines
TH200-4R TH700-R4 AL80E
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
cd 24
b | ay ale ae
,
& ery L
cay S ie de er
PS
TH200 TH400
ie
aie
mn
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
‘=Transmission Mount —_(Add case length to selected tail for overall length)
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Legend
(22a) Automatic transmission (A/T) input {shaft (891) 2-3 shift solenoid (SS) valve:
speed sensor (ISS) (313) 1-2 shift solenoid (SS) valve
(220) Automatic transmission (A/T) output (shatt) (220) Pressure control (PC) solenoid valve
speed sensor (OSS)
(34) Automatic transmission tluid tomperature
(TFT) sensor
(40) Automatic transmission fluid pressure (TFP)
‘manual valve position switch
(823) Torque converter clutch pulse width
modulation (TCC: PWM) solenoid valve
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Sloppy Mechanics Wiki-4180e Information, technical sh
 
1s, buld info, guidetines
RANGE REFERENCE CHART
 
 
HYDRAMATIC 4LH0-E - GEAR RATIOS.
First 249 FOURTH 75,
SECOND 148 REVERSE 208
THIRD 1.00
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
sou
P-N on | oF oto
R_|lreverse| on | oF HoLome PPLED| PLEO)
| on | oF wocomc [avec * HOLDING
(a ovomec | appueo ey ee
aa_[ oF [ ow ovomic [ appueo| aPeueD| vena] —aneLo [oven
am [on | on [arrueo] [esrannmc|apocien| pau vena] —aneuieD [overrun
va | on | oF sseueo| Houome | appuiEn * HOLDING
D ona | om | oF appuieo| HoLoInc | appueo| wocoins | Appvd | overmunons
oa [ oF | ow serueo| wotomc | arpueo| aprueD| ovens] —ereLico_[overan
> | [om [om seruep| Houma [APPL > HOWwING
tna | om | oF serueo| oun | APPL Jacruen| wots | areuico [ovr
4 Le fe Tor serueo| Hotoma | aPpLiED * owing [areueo
tna [oF | oF open] Houma | APpLiED jaerueo| wots | areuie0 [owes
 
 
 
ON - SOLENOID ENERGIZED
(fF = SOLENOID De- ENERGIZED
HOLDING BUT NOT EFFECTIVE
(@ THE SOLENOID'S STATE FOLLOWS A SHIFT PATTERN WHICH DEPENDS UPON VEHICLE
SPEED AND THROTTLE POSTION, IT DOES NOT DEPEND UPON THE SELECTED GEAR,
NOTE: DESCRIPTIONS ABOVE EXPLAIN COMPONENT FUNCTION DURING ACCELERATION,
 
 
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Info was grabbed from multiple sources
http://www.jakesperformance.com/
 
http://lsitech.com/
http://www.lsItruck.com/
http://coloradok5.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/
among others I can’t remember
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Tips for building a 4180e without the HD2 Kit (By Grady):
If you're going to tear the trans down to a bare case and actually build the thing...don't spend your
money on the transgo HD2 Kit. The transgo kit does 2 main things...increases line pressure and
“dual feeds” the direct clutch.
The direct clutch is used in 3rd gear and also for reverse. ‘The apply piston for this clutch is divided
into two chambers. In reverse, it uses both chambers and gets full apply force. In 3rd, it only uses
one chamber...significantly reducing the apply area and overall holding power. "dual feeding" the
clutch allows both chambers of the apply piston to be used in 3rd gear also... more than doubling
the strength of 3rd gear.
To dual feed...remove the center lip seal on the apply piston, remove the 2nd sealing ring on the
center support, and plug the case hole to the right of the center support bolt. You can plug the case
passage with a 3/8 cup plug driven in, Or you can tap the
  
ter support and install a set
 
crew.
Make sure the set screw is below flush otherwise the center support won't seal against the case and
you'll have a nightmare.
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For increasing the pressure, use a sonnax brand boost valve. The "4L80e-LBI" is the part number
you want. If making LESS than Ikhp...and I mean a true Ikhp to the tire...use the valve and sleeve
but keep the stock pressure regulator spring. If making more than Ikkhp...use the included sonnax
spring
Another important area to improve is the intermediate clutch snap ring. The stock ring is flimsy
and weak. Use a snap ring from a Torque Flite 727. the 0.106 thickness option usually works the
best. if clearance is too tight with the .106 you can step down to the .088
Drill the separator plate. I've attached the transgo plate picture so you can see which hole is for
which gear. Usually 5/64" (.078) is fine for lighter cars or lower power units for 2nd gear...you
don't need to make 2nd stupid firm. If making some jam or in a heavy vehicle (4k+ Ibs) 3/32 (.093)
will be ok. 3rd you can go 7/64 (.110) for most stuff and for high hp/heavy go 1/8" (.125) Same for
4th,
Don't take these numbers as gospel...it varries car to car, engine to engine, and person to person.
While uncle Jimmith might want to "bark the tires" on every shift at 20% throttle...other guys
might not want that.
Bigger hole=faster/firmer shift. If you block accumulators...use the smaller of the hole options
because the shifts will get faster and firmer when you block accumulators.
As a side note...replace the electronics and harness. You can usually do this for less than $200. If
nothing else...replace the EPC solenoid. It is by far the most important as it controlls the pressure
of the trans. So just replace it...don't cheap out here.
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“Z" Holes are your friends.
Center gaskets on plate and insert Stop 6
valve body boli tru °Z" holes first to Discard orginal plate. Use chart below
‘ep gaskets and plate from twisting and dill holes A,B and C on New
Transgo® Plate. Align gaskets while
assembling New plate to valve body.
Selecting Shift Firmness
Holes ABC are for shit feel selection
Average = 086 Softer = 076 Firm =,096
For oftroad use with small diameter high stall
converter make holes ABC .120
‘Average works reat for HD trucks!
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
Listen Up!
‘Supplied case gasket has
feniarged hole here. It must be
‘used with new plate
AAlitie ATF or assembly gel applied
to plate first will keep gaskets from
shifing while assembiing.
Page 4 © TransGo 200;
Speaking of accumulators...if you want to block the 3rd or 4th accumulators, you have a couple
options. The first option is the easiest and most foolproof...just buy an accumulator delete plate
from Jakes performance. They're not that expensive and they work great every time. If you don't
want to buy one, you can tap the stock accumulator housing and block the feed holes with a set
serew. The bore without the pin is for 3rd. The hole with the pin is for 4th. the 2nd accumulator is
in the case and does not need to be blocked. Use a 5/16"-18 tap and set screw.
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Ideally, you would have the pump and valve body vacuum tested...but I'm realistic...99% of guys in
their shop aren't going to do that. SO, just buy the transgo AFL Fix kit. "48-ACT-TL"
The kit will do 5 valve bodies...so save the kit and do a solid for some local buddies or sell the used
kit with 4 valves left in it..it ends up being very worth the cost. A leaky AFL will cause
HORRIBLE pressure rise, and poor actuation of the shift valves...which means the solenoids might
command a gear...but the pressure from afl is too low and it won't move the valve and shift.
‘Also, in the pump, drill this hole. But use a 5/64" (.078) drill bit. It provides better lube flow...it
also keeps the converter from dragging. So, you'll run cooler, have better lube, keep the converter
happy, ete.
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Step 4 Under “x” drill a
3/64 (.042-.055) hole thru
side of wall in direction of
arrow.
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As a rule of thumb...over 700 horse...get a billet input. Jakes performance has a budget friendly
billet shaft.
over 800 horse get a forged fwd. hub...FTI has a good unit at a good price. (if you're building a
400...they have a weaker hub...use an 80e steel hub up until 800 horse...then go forged)
MOST IMPORTANTLY Verify the damn fluid level. Seriously...you've taken the time to 80e
swap your ride...you've LS swapped your shitbox, you've loaded a tune from the sloppy
wiki...you've done alot of stuff that has taken more time and energy than this...but this can EASILY
ruin your weekend when you shit a trans.
Just make sure the dipstick reads correctly, Correct reading means that "FULL" Is level with the
pan rail, The flat part of the case where the pan bolts/seals. Right at that level or 1/8" above it the
correct fill level. I recommend doing it IN THE CAR with the dipstick permanently mounted. Get
the trans in and bolted up to the cross member...then drop the pan and check the stick. Scribe a line
on the stick if the existing line is not accurate, It doesn't matter if you get a "madman" or a lokar or
  
some other 200 dollar dipstick...don't assume it is correct...verify it. Honestly this is one of the
biggest killer of fwd and int clutches and it's ridiculous not to take the time to do this verification
step.
 
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