128 Serena No

star 1 2 3   Serena 129

up to 4c 4 9 - -
An excellent elongated buttress perched at the top end of the Frontales ridge. It has three
5a to 6a+ 1 5 3 - developed sectors with a good spread of grades, though nothing very hard. The easier
Frontales

Frontales
6b to 7a - 2 3 - pitches on the Medio and Bajas sectors make it a good alternative to sector Suiza on
Escalera Arabe for those seeking routes in the lower grades. The elevation and open aspect
7a+ and up - - 1 1 give fantastic views and a cool breeze in hotter weather. It is usually quieter than elsewhere.
Escalera Arabe

Escalera Arabe
Conditions
High, breezy and sunny. There is no chance of climbing in the rain, although the rock dries
rapidly and there is little seepage. It catches the sun for most of the day.
Las Encantadas

Las Encantadas
Approach
Follow the road through the village, past the station and up the hill towards Valle de
Abdalajis. At 3km from the station bar, take a steep track on the left (the junction where the
The Central Gorge

The Central Gorge

track is on the left has a very large stone with a letterbox in it). Follow the track for 1.7km
(passing the Rocabella Crag parking) and turn left to gain a parking area and noticeboard.
Continue on foot along the track for 250m and turn left. After a further 100m, turn right and
then in 150m a path on the left leads quickly to the base of the crag.
Desplomilandia

Desplomilandia
GPS  36.919432

scan for map

1km
 -4.736411
Túron

Túron
Upper Crag Sombra
p.110 p.106
Valle de Abdalajis

Valle de Abdalajis
Serena

El Navegador Pillar
Suiza p.126
El Torcal

El Torcal
Sergio p.120 Finca Rocabella
p.116
p.27
Steps Buttress
Villanueva de Cauche

Villanueva de Cauche
Arabesque p.114
McClaud p.112
p.104

Rocabella
Col
p.160
Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico
Corral East Restaurant
Rocabella
p.154
Bedees
Mijas

Mijas
p.151

Pinares de San Antón

Pinares de San Antón

Stone with
Paul Cox on La enfermera (6a) - page 130 - at Serena. letterbox
Serena is a fine crag set in a beautiful location high above
the valley, with plenty of routes across the grades including Cocina Caliente Climbing-Lodge
in the popular green spot range. Photo: Mark Glaister p.152 Back cover
 130 Serena  Alta Alta  Serena 131
Alta 6 La gimnasta . . . . 2tpsΩ 6c+
An excellent wall of featured rock with a good selection of
Frontales

Frontales
Charge up the steep rail, then navigate the tricky crux out to the
climbs. As with all the sectors here, the views are superb
wall on deceitful holds. Photo opposite.
and the base of the crag a nice place to relax between
climbs.
7 No salia. . . . . . . . . . 2tsΩ 7a+
Powerful moves from the rail to the hanging crack are followed
1 Mar de nubes . . . . . . . . 2pΩ 6b
Escalera Arabe

Escalera Arabe
by delicate climbing on the wall above.
Thug through the 6b roof move, then lovely clean 6a climbing
leads to the top. A high first bolt. 8 Serena serenita. . . . . 3ftΩ 7b
A beautiful line straight up the steep wall with a crimpy crux.
2 Perote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 6a
9 Hashfield . . . . . . . . . 1tsΩ 7a
Las Encantadas

Las Encantadas
A tight line left of La enfermera. Just about independent.
A thin wandering line up the steep streaked wall.
3 La enfermera . . . . . . 2tsΩ 6a
Thin moves to the break lead to excellent climbing up the wall On the far right end of the Alta sector is a steep rib and corner
above. Photo on p.128 with a slabby grey right wall. The next two lines follow these
The Central Gorge

The Central Gorge

features.
4 Hippie left. . . . . . . . . 2tpΩ 6a+
A fun, steep outing with some good hidden holds. 0 La trifulca. . . . . . . . . . . 1pΩ 6b
The steep disjointed rib to the left of the corner.
5 La hippie . . . . . . . . . 2tpΩ 6b
A surprisingly varied short route: Delicate wall, big rest, hard q Cervecita fresquita. . . . . . 2sΩ 5a
Desplomilandia

Desplomilandia
committing steep section and a balancy finish. The right-hand side of the slab.

ES$ 12 min
Túron

Túron
25m
Valle de Abdalajis

Valle de Abdalajis
El Torcal

El Torcal
Villanueva de Cauche

Villanueva de Cauche
2
Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico
1 5
Mijas

Mijas
3

Pinares de San Antón

Pinares de San Antón

4 6
7 8 0 q
Alan James on La gimnasta (6c+) - opposite . This
9 is one of a group of four harder pitches on the fine
upper section of Serena. Photo: Mark Glaister
 132 Serena  Medio Baja  Serena 133
Medio 3 Via engadin. . . . . . . . . . 1sΩ 4a Baja e Baklava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 4c
This small section is a perfect training area. It has a cable The first section encountered on the approach has some
Frontales

Frontales
The wall just right of the tree at the top of the crag. A brief but Start left of a slim corner.
along the ledge between the lower-offs for teaching, interesting low-grade climbs in a pleasant setting. This
pleasant climb on big holds.
which can be accessed from the ground on the far right. is a good spot for groups/beginners, or those after some
It is very generously bolted and has a good variety of easy-going mileage. r Arroz de coco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω 4b
moves for such short routes. The two routes on the left 4 Terra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . pΩ 5a The face passing short cracks midway.
are longer and more substantial lines. A steep couple of moves gain better holds.
9 Climbonaut. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω 4a
Escalera Arabe

Escalera Arabe
t El clavo dulce. . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 4b
5 Fuego. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1pΩ 5a Start a little way left of the main section of wall at a tree. Climb Start at a clear patch in the vegetation.
1 Go for it - now! . . . . . . . . 1sΩ 4c Make a powerful pull to easier but still interesting ground. to a lower-off some way below an overhanging block.
The long rounded rib that leads up right of the mid-height tree. y Pumkin pilav. . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 5c
6 Agua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1sΩ 5a 0 Smoothie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω 3b Climb a slab to a steep crack in the headwall.
2 Papa Joe & Mama Nike . . . . 1Ω 4c
Las Encantadas

Las Encantadas
Nice moves up the wall. Start at a small white niche at the crag base.
Start up the large rounded scoop and then wend a way up past a u Gözieme. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Ω 4b
wide crack and short wall. 7 Aire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ω 4c q First steps to heaven . . . . . . 1Ω 3a Start behind a tree and climb to a final crack/gully.
The left-leaning diagonal crack is climbed on good holds. Climb a slight bulge on huge holds to gain a pocketed face.
i Tarta de chocolate. . . . . . . . 1Ω 3b
ES$ 8 Roca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1tΩ 5c w Crack or face?. . . . . . . . . 1sΩ 4c
The Central Gorge

The Central Gorge

11 min The face and crack to the right-hand side of the upper buttress.
The wall right of the diagonal crack has some tricky moves. Use the wide crack left of the bolts in the face to gain the easier
upper wall. Climbing the face direct without using the crack is
5b and run out.

ES$
Desplomilandia

Desplomilandia
10 min

23m
Túron

Túron
22m
Valle de Abdalajis

Valle de Abdalajis
El Torcal

El Torcal
15m
Villanueva de Cauche

Villanueva de Cauche
9
ui
Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico
8 y
6 7 0
1 2 q w r t
Mijas

Mijas
5 e
3
4

Pinares de San Antón

Pinares de San Antón