Wein Akademiker Thesis

Renaissance of the Balaton

Candidate Name – Sue Tolson

Word count: 4973 words

Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Table of Contents
Introduction .............................................................................................................. 3
Key varietals and styles ............................................................................................. 4
Challenges brought by 20th-century history ...................................................................... 4
Current situation........................................................................................................ 6
Tourism and seasonality ..................................................................................................... 6
Property speculation........................................................................................................... 6
Lack of Balaton brand for wine ........................................................................................... 7
Initiatives around the lake.......................................................................................... 8
Development and assurance of quality wine tourism ........................................................ 8
Balatoni Kör .............................................................................................................. 8
Dél Balatoni Borút Egyesület .................................................................................... 8
Community initiatives ............................................................................................... 9
Gastro Map Lake Balaton ......................................................................................... 9
Olaszrizling – improving and guaranteeing quality and building a uniform image ............ 9
Rizling Generáció ...................................................................................................... 9
Csopaki Kódex ......................................................................................................... 10
Vinea Balaton and BalatonBor ................................................................................ 10
Preservation of the vineyards ........................................................................................... 13
Balaton Konzilium ................................................................................................... 14
Other initiatives ................................................................................................................ 15
Somló ...................................................................................................................... 15
Promotion of local varieties .............................................................................................. 15
Olaszrizling .............................................................................................................. 15
Kéknyelű ................................................................................................................. 16
Juhfark .................................................................................................................... 16
The future................................................................................................................ 17
Conclusions ............................................................................................................. 18
Bibliography ............................................................................................................ 20
Appendix 1 – Map of Hungarian wine regions ........................................................... 22
Appendix 2 – Csopaki Kódex quality pyramid ............................................................ 23
Appendix 3 – BalatonBor image................................................................................ 24
Appendix 4 – Vinea Balaton map .............................................................................. 25

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Introduction

Lake Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe and is surrounded by approximately 15% of
Hungary’s vineyards. The Balaton Wine Region consists of six wine districts – Badacsony,
Balatonboglár, Balaton-felvidék, Balatonfüred-Csopak, Nagy-Somló and Zala (see Appendix 1). The
area’s climate is continental, but is powerfully tempered by the large body of water, resulting in
cooler summers, more humid air and milder winters than other regions in Europe at the same
latitude. The Bakony range to the north also protects the region from cold northerly and easterly
winds. Somló Hill is the only district not directly on the lake; it’s located a little to the north, but
shares many of the region’s characteristics, thus is an integral part of the region. The region consists
of volcanic hills and various bays around the lake, with extremely diverse soils, including basalt and
red forest soil, hence an ideal location to produce quality wines. Many of the individual hills have
great historic significance.

Vines have been cultivated at the Balaton for millennia. Vineyards were often established by Roman
legionnaires at the end of their service and the Balaton was a popular choice. Viticulture also thrived
during the Middle Ages with church vineyards featuring some of the most advanced R&D in Europe
at the time. Some viticulture persisted during the Turkish occupation with wine allegedly helping to
fuel the locals’ resistance. By the 1750s, the first wine communities had already been founded, with
regulations to be adhered to. During the Reform Age, the landscape was characterised by vineyards,
cellars and press houses, and wine was transported to all corners of the Monarchy. It was said that
wine lovers were even able to recognise which hill a wine was from by its taste; indeed, Badacsony’s
Örmös was as famous as Tokaji Aszú. Somló’s Juhfark also achieved international acclaim, with the
high acidity of its wines ensuring stability for successful transportation. It was also believed to have
medicinal properties and help guarantee the birth of a male heir.

Phylloxera devastated the vineyards of the northern shore in the late nineteenth century. This had
been a prolific growing area due to its favourable geological and climatic properties, but now many
resorted to making wines on the less traditional sandy terrain of the southern shore, whose soil
inhibited the progress of the destructive nematode1. Thus, the southern vineyards expanded at the
expense of the northern shore. When vineyards in the north were replanted, it was no longer mixed
plantings of old varieties, rather modern, pure varieties. Many traditional varieties, such as Kéknyelű
– a low-yielder - and Juhfark, were side-lined or eliminated. The state supported the adoption of

1
When the wine made in Balatonmariafürdő beat the vintages of Badacsony – Németh Richard, 26.02.2016

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

new varieties and methods, and by the end of WWI, the total area of Balaton vineyards had grown
considerably.

Key varietals and styles

Historically, key varieties around the lake were Szigeti (Furmint) and Kadarka. Although the region is
now dominated by white varieties, in the 19th century, the Balaton was more famous for red wine,
about 60% of plantings were black grapes; nowadays approximately 80% of vines are white.

Until now, no single grape has been closely associated with the Balaton as a whole, making it difficult
to create an identity for the region. Olaszrizling2 is the most dominant grape, but there is a wide
range of varieties, including Szürkebarát3, Chardonnay, Müller-Thurgau, Furmint, Juhfark, Hárslevelű,
Kékfrankos4 and Cabernet Sauvignon, with aromatic varieties on the rise in the last ten years.

Challenges brought by 20th-century history

WWII and its aftermath brought dramatic changes to the region. People could no longer travel
abroad and the Balaton became a centrally located resort and focal point for the working classes in
summer. The level of the lake was regulated, its shores were concreted over, beaches created, snack
bars opened and the concept of the summer season was born. This damaged the natural
environment – the natural floodplains disappeared and the lake’s fish stocks dropped dramatically.

Socialism did not spare the vineyards either. The vineyards were collectivised and relocated to the
flatter lands nearer the lake to enable mechanisation and large-scale production. Higher sites were
abandoned and press houses turned into holiday homes; where there was no view, the forest
returned. Few people were occupied with viticulture, rather with seasonal work along the lake
shore. The quality of the wine also suffered, quantity not quality now became key. Wine was now
sold to other Soviet-bloc countries or to holidaying East Germans. Somló met with the same fate:
grapes were sold to the cooperative Hungarovin which churned out Somlói pezsgő5 and sweet wine.

The system change at the end of the eighties brought no respite either. The focus on the summer
season continued, and land and property speculation began. When cooperatives disintegrated, some
vineyards were taken over by ambitious small estates, but the proliferation of holiday homes
continued, leading to spiralling prices for vineyard land too. Attempts to extend the season focus on

22
Welschriesling
3
Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio, it may be made in both styles
4
Blaufränkisch
5
Pezsgő means traditional method sparkling wine.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

touristic facilities, such as waterparks. Seasonal tourism has the Balaton in its grip and viticulture is
suffering badly.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Current situation

The last fifty years have done untold damage to the Balaton’s cultural landscape, especially to the
viticultural way of life. This traditional lifestyle is now under threat unless something serious is
undertaken to halt the trend. Unfortunately, this is only evident to a few, principally those who live
around the lake. The main catalyst is the ‘summer season’ and development is centred around ways
to extend it. Development studies assign little importance to vines and wine; state programmes
aimed at promoting the region are generally linked to the summer season.

The Balaton therefore currently faces three main challenges which impinge on viticulture and
winemaking.

Tourism and seasonality

Tourism work is largely seasonal; hence many locals are only employed for some months of the year.
In addition, many of those with property at the Balaton use it as a holiday home, thus many
communities lose half their population during the winter, causing further difficulties for local
businesses. In addition, many young people are leaving the region due to this lack of permanent
work. Viticulture was once the livelihood of many around the lake and its revival would help to keep
young people in the area by ensuring year-round work.

Property speculation

When the former regime ended and compensation was made in the form of land, large tracts of
collectivised vineyard land were divided into parcels and many owners held onto them hoping to
make a substantial profit if they could reclass them and thus sell them as building land. This
speculation is continuing, especially for plots of land with a panoramic view of the lake, pushing land
prices to unrealistic and unsustainable levels. Many great historic vineyards have already succumbed
to the developers and the danger is that many more will follow if property speculation and
development continue at this pace. Regulation regarding land usage and fines have not yet proven
sufficient a deterrent to prevent the decrease in vineyard areas around the Balaton to approximately
10,000 hectares6, when it would be possible to cultivate double this area. The problem is more acute
on the northern shore of the Balaton.

6
Csak a bor emelheti fel a Balatont – Kovács Tamás, 20.02.2016

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Lack of Balaton brand for wine

The vineyard area around the Balaton is divided into several smaller regions and is thus marketed
under these names. These are often rather small and consumers are unfamiliar with them, perhaps
with the exception of Badacsony; they are more likely to identify with the Balaton as a whole than
the individual wine region, yet until now Balaton wines had not been marketed as such. There was
no clear Balaton brand representing quality wine.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Initiatives around the lake

Many are seeking to address these problems, either as the Balaton as a whole or as individual wine
regions. Various organisations have been founded to help develop more sustainable wine and
gastronomy-focussed tourism, improve and guarantee the quality of wine, protect the vineyards and
halt their decline, and further local varieties.

Development and assurance of quality wine tourism

One key initiative is to promote sustainable all-year-round tourism and attract visitors interested in
the local gastronomy and wine, rather than mass, seasonal tourism for which the Balaton has been
famous in the last fifty years. This is happening on both a lake-wide and more local basis.

Balatoni Kör7

This is an association of winemakers, founded in 2014 by 20 prominent winemakers, restaurants and

hotels around the lake with the common aim of promoting the availability of local products, wine
and gastronomy to the highest level throughout the year. They now count 34 members, more than a
third of which are wineries. A key promotional tool is the establishment of a uniform image and
common marketing initiatives. Another major plan is to achieve the future merging of the individual
regions into one Balaton region8, which they believe will help them to market the region and its
wines more effectively. One step towards this has already been made with the creation of
BalatonBor, a regional Olaszrizling with a uniform image, but with wines produced by individual
wineries.

An additional idea could be to create two regions divided by the lake itself, thus a northern and a
southern Balaton region. However, Krisztián Gyukli, President of Rizling Generáció, points out this
may be controversial as there is already rivalry between the two shores. However, to a certain
extent, Balatonboglár is already doing this, by styling itself as Dél Balaton9.

Dél Balatoni Borút Egyesület10

The southern shore of the Balaton has its own initiative, founded in 1999, to promote and guarantee
the quality of wineries and hotels offering hospitality to tourists. They also organise events, festivals

7
Balaton Circle
8
What does the future hold for Balaton wine? Part 1 – Németh Richard, 21.03.2016
9
South Balaton
10
Association of the South Balaton Wine Route, www.delbalatonbor.hu

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

and regional wine competitions, and promote South Balaton wines locally and in Budapest. In
addition, they have created a map and series of recommended stops along the wine route, which
are strictly controlled for quality. The map and website provide an overview of stops including sights
and other points of interests, such as artisan workshops.

The South Balaton and Somogy region have also begun a joint marketing strategy for wine, cheese,
ham, premium bakery goods and meat products from the region, also with a unified image, together
with the development of a cooperative system11. They will present their products as part of a road
show as well as in speciality shops and with themed wine dinners. This first example of regional food
branding in Hungary based on French and Italian models is reportedly just starting to show the first
signs of success.

Community initiatives

Individual communities have also set up similar associations to promote and control quality tourism
in their local areas, such as the Badacsonyi Történelmi Borút Egyesület12, founded in 1999, which
also provide a local bus connecting some of the key wineries in Badacsony and organise a wine
dinner each Saturday at a different winery.

Gastro Map Lake Balaton

A gastro map of Lake Balaton has been produced for the last two years to raise awareness of autumn
and winter Balaton; starting with 16 locations, it now features over 60 stops, including 18 wineries13.

Olaszrizling - improving and guaranteeing quality and building a uniform image

There are three main organisations involved in promoting and guaranteeing the quality of
Olaszrizling, Lake Balaton’s most commonly planted variety: Balatoni Kör, Csopaki Kódex and Rizling
Generáció. All three have been instrumental in the creation of Vinea Balaton.

Rizling Generáció

This is an association of young, mostly second-generation winemakers in Balatonfüred-Csopak,

founded in August 2015 and devoted to raising the image of Olaszrizling14. They organise Rizling

11
Márkát csinálnának a Dél-Balatonból, 08.04.2017
12
Badacsony Historic Wine Route Association, www.badacsonyiborut.hu
13
www.gasztroterkepek.hu
14
www.rizlinggeneracio.hu

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Tavász15 every year in Balatonfüred to promote the variety. Like Balatoni Kör, they also wish to
increase the attractiveness of the historic wine region and its traditional wine, and are elaborating
strategies for terroir, variety and origin protection to encourage quality grape and wine production.
They lend each other tools and machinery, taste each other’s wines and give positive criticism, and
are currently working on a strict quality system. One stated goal is for all local restaurants to have a
local wine as their house wine. This year many BalatonBor wines came from Balatonfüred
producers.

Csopaki Kódex

Csopak has established an independent, two-tier voluntary quality pyramid based on that of
Wachau, Vinea Csopak (see Appendix 2). It applies stringent rules relating to quality and protection
of origin, and is built on four pillars controlling production rigorously right from pruning through to
the finished bottle of wine, which is tested by independent judges16. The main objective is to
promote and develop a common system for single-vineyard-selected uniform style wines with a
terroir focus. The vines must be at least ten years’ old and grapes must originate from one of five
named villages to qualify as ‘hegybor’17 and 32 named vineyards for ‘Kódex’ wines. Wines must be at
least 85% Olaszrizling with a maximum of 15% Furmint18 (which aids acidity in warm years), be
spontaneously fermented or using a neutral yeast, be 12-13% ABV, contain minimum 5.5g acidity
and be aged for at least 9 months (6 in oak or tank and 3 in bottle) before release. The wines must
be bottled in a Burgundy-style bottle. The system has been in operation since 2012 and any
winemaker who meets the criteria may apply to join.

Csopak has also organised the tasting event Olaszrizling Szerintunk19 for the last 8 years.

Vinea Balaton and BalatonBor

Vinea Balaton, launched in 2016, represents a major step forward in the promotion of the Balaton as
a coherent wine region. It showcases Olaszrizling as the most commonly planted variety, provides a
uniform image and aims to demonstrate why it is the key varietal here. It is the first super-regional
wine in Hungary, allowing marketing on a regional and community level, which should prove
advantageous for sales in the EU and other export markets. It is open to all Balaton producers and

15
Riesling Spring
16
www.csopaki.hu
17
’Village wine’
18
Lesz még szőlő...? - Jásdi István, 07.03.2017
19
‘Olaszrizling according to us’

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

thus enables the production of a large volume of a relatively homogenous wine, which is judged by
an independent, internationally experienced jury. It aims to put Lake Balaton on the world map
alongside other well-known regions and bring its quality and value to the public’s eyes. Gábor
Kárdos, organiser and first president of Balatoni Kör was responsible for the development of the
system. He believes that in wine and gastronomy markets, European regions compete with strong
regional bands, so it’s important to create this first Hungarian regional brand and define a new
image for the Balaton20. ‘Balaton Bora’ is its slogan, ‘Made in Balaton’ its trademark and the more
concise ‘BalatonBor’, found on the label, its brand name.

It is a young brand but is already beginning to spread in the Balaton. The number of wineries
qualifying has increased from 2121 in the first year to 2422 this year, with double the volume
marketed, demonstrating the producers’ growing enthusiasm for the product and its legitimacy. It
has also achieved increasing recognition with consumers in Hungary, with the first year’s vintage
already selling out by October at many wineries. This year’s wines were presented in Budapest in
April and in ‘Nyilik a BalatonBor’23 at various locations around the lake, and also played a prominent
role in Rizling Tavász in Balatonfüred. It was also presented by the Hungarian tourist agency at the
biggest German tourism fair in Berlin last year as a novelty on the Hungarian gastrotourism market24.

The product is beneficial for producers too, enabling the involvement of not only well-known brands
and premium producers like Jásdi and Szent Donat, but also small players with weak market
positions, thus helping them find a market. Minimum and maximum amounts per winery also ensure
that no large players dominate. It is also their product, as it was developed by the producers
themselves, an independent community, without any government support. A small trademark usage
fee of 30-50HUF per bottle depending on quantities is charged to cover costs of marketing and
communicating the product. It’s positive for consumers as it is an easily understandable wine, they
know what to expect and there is an attractive price-quality ratio25.

It represents a three-tier, clearly understandable, Balaton-wide quality assurance scheme, which

took more than a year to develop26.

20
Kardos Gábor: A BalatonBor valódi termék, nem valami reklámlufi, 15.05.2016, www.mandiner.hu
21
Betartott Ígéret – Itt vannak az első BalatonBorok, 19.05.2016
22
Védett növény: a szőlő - Kövesdi István (Vince Magazine March 2017 issue)
23
’BalatonBor is opening’
24
Kardos Gábor: A BalatonBor valódi termék, nem valami reklámlufi, 15.05.2016, www. mandiner.hu
25
BalatonBor, the lowest level of the pyramid is marketed at 1450HUF.
26
Ilyen lesz a közös balatoni bor, 12.10.2015, www.mandiner.hu

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

 The lowest level is BalatonBor. Light, simple, fruity, clean wines with a uniform image (see
Appendix 3) for everyday consumption. The wines should be of similar character with no
dominant oak or lees influence, offering a reliable, similar experience independent of
geographical location and producer, although allowing for some differences due to terroir.
The labels are uniform, only differing by producer name, and youthful, creating a sleek
image and improving marketability both domestically and internationally. The wines have to
meet the following criteria:
o Yield – maximum 2kg/vine
o ABV – 11.5-12.5%
o Residual sugar – maximum 4g/l
o Fermentation – minimum 75% tank, maximum 25% cask
o Fresh varietal character, without aromatic aromas
o Minimum 4 months’ ageing before bottling, minimum 75% tank, maximum 25% cask
o Marketing category – Balaton PGI
o Transparent Burgundy style bottle with screw cap

 The second level is Hegybor, which aims to show the diversity of locations around the lake. It
can come from any of Balaton’s historic vineyard areas (see Appendix 4). Béla Hamvas, a
Hungarian writer, wrote that the hills27 around the Balaton have their own character.
Certainly, hill identity is an integral part of Balaton wine culture; each producer has their
own hill, which they are proud to represent. This also constitutes a link to the past where
wines were known by the hill they came from, e.g. Badacsonyi, and may also represent a
more local link if the region succeeds in becoming one larger entity. These are marketed
with the wineries’ own labels with a logo identifying them as part of this second category.
Wines here may show more variable characteristics of terroir28, be more ambitious with
higher levels of alcohol, stand oak notes better and may also have bottle ageing. Thirteen
wines qualified last year29; selection for the latest vintage has not yet taken place.

 Dűlő, or vineyard-selected wines will be a local task, like the existing Csopaki Kódex. These
will have stricter rules, and must be made from grapes of specific vineyards. They may be full

27
Hegy means hill in Hungarian
28
Vinea Balaton: BalatonBor és Hegybor bírálat Csopakon, Kovács András, 25.03.2016
29
Vinea Balaton (http://moff.hu/cikk/641/1/Vinea_Balaton.html)

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

bodied with ageing notes. They can keep their own bottle style with an indication of Vinea
Balaton. This has not yet been introduced.

Although BalatonBor is initially based on Olaszrizling, they also intend to introduce rosé, lightly
sparkling and red BalatonBor30.

Not only does BalatonBor assure a certain standard of quality, it is also an innovative fair-trade
product as it ensures that growers get a more favourable price for their grapes31 with the long-term
goal of improving the price level of grapes, thus helping improve the livelihood of producers and
creating jobs. A minimum purchase price is part of the rules: last year set at 130HUF per kilo32,
instead of the current 90-100HUF, which is considerably below growers’ costs of 150HUF. The
growing demand for the wine will hopefully enable further price increases for grapes and ultimately,
a start on reconstructing abandoned vineyards.

Preservation of the vineyards

Local winemakers and communities are extremely concerned about the threat to the vineyards on
the northern shore due to property development and speculation. High prices33 put land out of the
reach of many local farmers, although in theory they have first option to buy vineyard land.
Attempts to appeal against these prices are usually defeated in court. Few vineyards are being
replanted, although winemakers say 70% of vines are older than desirable34, abandoned vines are
left to go wild and pass on disease to neighbouring vineyards, and famous vineyards, such as
Csopak’s Berekhát35, are being concreted over or, in the best case, speculators are preventing them
from being replanted. Such high prices also mean that vines are not always planted in the best sites
and moreover decreases interest in investing in vines; although the land is valuable, it doesn’t reflect
income from grapes and vines.

Although local councils like Csopak try to protect the vineyards by tightening regulation, they are
usually thwarted by purchasers taking advantage of loopholes. For example, villas are registered as
agricultural buildings and swimming pools as water tanks. Vines are planted to meet requirements
noted on deeds that 80% of land must be under vine, but are then grubbed up once the inspectors
have visited. Obligations to cultivate vines are ignored and fines for infringement are an insufficient

30
Most tényleg itt az olaszrizling új neve!, 08.10.2016, www.vinoport.hu
31
HELLÓ BALATONBOR! (Second vintage of BalatonBor), 25.04.2017
32
Végre! – Nagy Sebestyén. 24.04.2017
33
Prices in Csopak start at 10 million forints per hectare but can be as much as 30-40 million.
34
Nem csoda ha eltűnik a Balatoni szőlő - Banláki Stella, 31.01.2017
35
Csak a bor emelheti fel a Balatont – Kovács Tamás, 20.02.2016

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

deterrent. Taxes on uncultivated vines also seem to have little effect. Csopak is currently fighting 40-
50 court cases regarding this. The town has even declared the vine a protected species, the only
place in the world where this is the case. Nevertheless, Csopak’s mayor predicts that 20-30% of vines
are likely to disappear in a few years; István Jásdi is even more pessimistic, predicting that in 5-10
years, 80% of Balaton’s vines will have disappeared unless action is taken36. Large tracts of vines
have disappeared in Zanka and Badacsony too.

Cooperation of local stakeholders is required to rescue these lands, so important for the image of
the Balaton and tourism. Support for vine reconstruction from EU funds, little of which currently
ends up in the northern Balaton, would also be helpful. Winemakers are putting forward proposals
to improve the situation and consulting legal experts on ways forward. Increasing numbers of
associations are being established to help protect the vineyards. Rizling Generáció is measuring the
problem in Balatonfüred and Zanka, and developing a regulatory package with local councils and
wine communities. Balatoni Kör is also putting together proposals to help councils protect the
vineyards.

Balaton Konzilium

The first Balaton Konzilium was held in Csopak in April 2017 to start the process of compiling a
package of proposals; this will shortly be presented to legislative decisions-makers.

Balatoni Kör, Csopaki Kódex, Rizling Generació and Északipart37 have initiated this series of debates
to protect the vulnerable values of the Balaton. In the absence of clear strategy and appropriate
regulation, they have decided it is time to act to counter the damage being caused to the lake by real
estate speculation. This first meeting drew 40-50 participants who discussed ideas for intensifying
laws and sanctions on those who only cultivate vines ‘on paper’38 and simply use the land as a
building plot, and the possibility to begin auditing and inspecting buildings supposedly operating as
wineries. Another idea was to set up an association specifically designed to take legal action against
those who grub up vines or classify their villas as agricultural buildings.

36
Jásdi: Ha nem történik semmi, a balatoni szőlő eltűnik – Jásdi István, 19.09.2016
37
Északipart is Hungarian for northern shore and is a magazine focussing on the northern Balaton.
38
BALATON KONZÍLIUM 2017/1 – veszélyeztetett balatoni értékek - Csíkí Sándor, 04.05.17

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Other initiatives

There have been many other more local efforts at cooperation around the lake, including Badacsonyi
Kör and VSOP Balaton-felvidék, but many of these have been superseded by Balatoni Kör. However,
Somló still has several initiatives of its own.

Somló

Somló is a little detached from the rest of the Balaton and although invited to join Vinea Balaton,
none of the winemakers have done so. Eva Cartwright, who runs the Somló wine shop, which stocks
wines from all Somló’s winemakers with one notable exception, believes they will never do so.
Although she feels that Somló is part of the Balaton touristically, the wines are so different that they
are a distinct region. A group of young winemakers are also discussing a similar quality system in
Somló.

Eva also established the annual Somló open cellar night, which draws large numbers of visitors. She
is also cooperating with other Hungarian volcanic wine regions, including Badacsony and Tokaj, in
promoting their wines together as #go volcanic, particularly in the UK as Witness Mountain Wines.
Here, the buzzword is undiscovered and unique – undiscovered varieties and places. She feels that
it’s essential to tap into a niche focus, such as that promoted by John Szabó with his book ‘Volcanic
Wines’, and take advantage of shifts in consumer behaviour.

Promotion of local varieties

The Balaton regions cultivate many varieties. However, to promote and differentiate the individual
regions, many local varieties are being resurrected and could be better marketed. This would enable
them to take advantage of the shift in consumer behaviour towards purposely seeking new varietals.
It would represent a huge opportunity for the Balaton and Hungary, which has many little-known
varietals. Three obvious candidates are as follows.

Olaszrizling

Balaton Olaszrizling is able to offer a range of characteristics and complexities, from barrel-
fermented Badacsony or Somló wines with mineral notes, crisp reductive wines from the South
Balaton or juicy, vibrant wines rich in acidity from Zala39. Vinea Balaton is an excellent way to
showcase this.

39
Zala used to be Hungary’s largest wine region, but has faded in recognition.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Attempts were made to change the variety’s name for the export market40, but have been dropped
due to resistance.

Kéknyelű

Kéknyelű is a variety local to Badacsony, famous in the collective consciousness of Hungarians and
since 2007 considered the region’s flagship variety41. It can produce full-bodied, aromatic wine with
attractive acidity, but there is no clear style. There is currently about 70 hectares planted. Although
prestigious at the end of the 19th century, it fell out of favour as it is difficult to grow and low-
yielding, needing help with pollination. An annual festival is now held to celebrate its flowering.

Juhfark

Juhfark, meaning sheep’s tail, is Somló’s flagship variety, where most of its 100 hectares is planted. It
was celebrated in the past for its medicinal properties, even being sold in pharmacies. It also has the
potential to regain its historic glory. It’s rich in minerals and fresh acidity and often described as
fiery. It also ages well thanks to its high acidity.

40
Olaszrizling translates as Italian Riesling and was felt to be misleading as the grape is not Italian and is not
related to Riesling. Names offered were Nemes, Mandola and Oris.
41
http://www.vinumvulcanum.hu/borlovagrend/zaszlosbora/

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

The future

The Balaton is already seeing an increase in quality, sustainable tourism focussing on wine and
gastronomy, in part thanks to the various initiatives discussed. A greater number of quality
restaurants, wineries and hotels exist and standards are considerably higher than in the past.
Moreover, they are better promoted. This should continue to pick up pace.

The brand BalatonBor has been called a true success story, resulting in a quality, understandable and
accessible product – a good wine –, the flagship of the region. As the product grows, it needs to
ensure that no one winery dominates and all participants can share fairly in its success. It’s likely to
become necessary to find a large commercial partner who will build the brand with due care and sell
the wines, ultimately internationally. At the premium level, Csopak already has its quality system for
vineyard-selected wines and the other sub-regions need to follow suit.

Vinea Balaton also wishes to cooperate with other regions and exchange ideas and experience on
creating an effective regional image. Its success may also have a knock-on effect on Hungarian wines
in general and represents a real opportunity to raise the prestige of Hungarian wines both
domestically and internationally.

The main challenge of the future will be to arrest the continuing decline of the vineyard area and
protect the vine. Positive steps are being made here with the initiation of the Balaton Konzilium and
development of proposals to tighten the laws relating to viticulture and land use. It is to be hoped
that local and national government will take this seriously and pass appropriate legislation.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Conclusions

The success of these initiatives, as well as those in other regions such as Szekszárd and Villány,
demonstrate the importance of cooperation both within and between regions in order to increase
the quality and recognition of Hungarian wine. Such initiatives show unity, common thinking and
mutual support, especially since premium wineries such as Szent Donat and Jásdi are participating in
Vinea Balaton, despite their own strong sales. This shows a lack of selfish interests and a desire to
move the region forward, including the smaller players. They also demonstrate the need to be
proactive and not wait for state support. However, this also highlights Hungary’s lack of appropriate
national wine marketing strategy relating to understanding Hungarian varietals and styles.

The development and maintenance of consumer recognition and confidence by clear, common
marketing and a quality product represents an attractive way forward for all Hungarian wine regions.
Selecting a flagship variety or style to represent a region and then standing behind it together is a
positive step. There is no clear conception of what Hungarian wine is, so the Vinea Balaton model is
something that other regions could consider to help build a more transparent image of the country’s
wines. Cooperation between regions would also help to cement this progression.

Regions need a unique and consistent USP. Olaszrizling has been selected for the Balaton, but sub-
regions can also do this through rediscovery and popularisation of local varieties.

It is crucial to find a way to arrest the demise of vineyard area around the Balaton, through
legislation to protect the vines and deter speculators, and by replanting as many vines as possible,
creating good wine and ensuring appropriate quality gastronomy and accommodation. This would
help to decrease the extreme seasonality of the Balaton and keep young people in the area.

Cooperation here is also key, along with the support of local and national government. However, not
only do the vineyards need to be protected, it also needs to be economically viable to cultivate
grapes. Hence the need for sustainable agriculture with estates large enough to support a family,
and good cooperative systems with community machinery facilities and common marketing, which
also reinvest any profits.

Finally, there also needs to be recognition that tourism is both a risk and an opportunity, a fine
balancing act. It represents the destruction of the vineyards for building and a ready stream of mass
tourists to consume poor quality wine, yet, in the guise of sustainable, high-quality wine and food
tourism, it helps support viticulture and create a livelihood for local people. Preserving this unique
culture around the lake is imperative. Wine and grapes are intrinsically linked to the Balaton and

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

tourism needs them. Once the vines have gone, the region will lose its appeal, and there will be no
going back.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Bibliography

Articles
Banláki, Stella - Nem csoda ha eltűnik a Balatoni szőlő, 31.01.2017 (http://vinoport.hu/aktualis/nem-
csoda-ha-eltunik-a-balatoni-szolo/3389)
Csíkí, Sándor, BALATON KONZÍLIUM 2017/1 – veszélyeztetett balatoni értékek, 04.05.17
(http://www.foodandwine.hu/2017/05/04/balaton-konzilium-20171-veszelyeztetett-balatoni-
ertekek/)
Hidvégi, Brigi - Most van szükség összefogásra a Balaton-felvidékért, 03.05.2017
(http://www.turistamagazin.hu/most-van-szukseg-osszefogasra-a-balaton-felvidekert.html)
Jásdi, István, Lesz még szőlő...?, 07.03.2017 (http://vinoport.hu/blog/lesz-meg-szolo/374)
Jásdi, István - Jásdi: Ha nem történik semmi, a balatoni szőlő eltűnik, 19.09.2016
(http://vinoport.hu/blog/jasdi-ha-nem-tortenik-semmi-a-balatoni-szolo-eltunik/338)
Kodela, Mia - Olaszrizling Szerintünk Szerintem, 26.02.2016 (http://borravalo.hu/olaszrizling-
szerintunk-szerintem/)
Kovács, András - Vinea Balaton: BalatonBor és Hegybor bírálat Csopakon, 25.03.2016
(http://borrajongo.blog.hu/2016/03/25/vinea_balaton_balatonbor_es_hegybor_biralat_csopakon)
Kovács, Tamás - Csak a bor emelheti fel a Balatont, 20.02.2016 (http://vinoport.hu/blog/csak-a-bor-
mentheti-meg-a-balatont/278)
Kövesdi, István - Védett növény: a szőlő (Vince Magazine March 2017 issue)
Nagy, Sebestyén – Végre!, 24.04.2017 (http://flavor.hu/bor/balatonbor2017/)
Németh, Richard - What does the future hold for Balaton wine? Part 1, 21.03.2016
(http://welovebalaton.hu/wine.gastronomy/what.does.the.future.hold.for.balaton.wine.part.i)
Németh, Richard - When the wine made in Balatonmariafürdő beat the vintages of Badacsony,
26.02.2016
(http://welovebalaton.hu/wine.gastronomy/when.the.wine.made.in.balatonmariafurdo.beat.the.vin
tages.of.badacsony)
Santa, Zoltán - BalatonBor, Hegy bor, dűlő, 22.02.2016
(http://bor.mandiner.hu/cikk/20160222_santa_zoltan_balatonbor_hegybor_dulo), 22.2.2016
Tolson, Sue - Csopak is Olaszrizling, 26.10.2016 (http://www.winesofa.eu/articles/csopak-is-
olaszrizling)
Betartott Ígéret – Itt vannak az első BalatonBorok, 19.05.2016 (http://eszakipart.hu/betartott-
igeret/)
Vinea Balaton (http://moff.hu/cikk/641/1/Vinea_Balaton.html)
Ilyen lesz a közös balatoni bor, 12.10.2015
(http://bor.mandiner.hu/cikk/20151012_ilyen_lesz_a_kozos_balatoni_bor)
Márkát csinálnának a Dél-Balatonból, 08.04.2017
(http://bor.mandiner.hu/cikk/20170408_markat_csinalnanak_a_del_balatonbol)
Kardos Gábor: A BalatonBor valódi termék, nem valami reklámlufi, 15.05.2016
(http://bor.mandiner.hu/cikk/20160515_kardos_gabor_a_balatonbor_valodi_termek_nem_valami_
reklamlufi)

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

HELLÓ BALATONBOR! (Second vintage of BalatonBor), 25.04.2017

(http://drkuktart.blog.hu/2017/04/25/balatonbor2017)
Most tényleg itt az olaszrizling új neve!, 08.10.2016 (http://vinoport.hu/aktualis/itt-az-olaszrizling-uj-
neve/3271)
Lezajlott a Balaton Konzílium – Vinoport, 04.05.2017 (http://vinoport.hu/aktualis/lezajlott-a-
balatoni-konizlium/3490&admin=1)
A régiós összefogásban rejlő erő: Kardos Gábor a KÖRről és a Balaton érékeinek megóvásáról –
Balatoni Kör, 03.05.2017 (https://www.facebook.com/notes/balatoni-k%C3%B6r/a-
r%C3%A9gi%C3%B3s-%C3%B6sszefog%C3%A1sban-rejl%C5%91-er%C5%91-kardos-g%C3%A1bor-a-
k%C3%B6rr%C5%91l-der%C3%BCr%C5%91l-%C3%A9s-a-balaton-
%C3%A9rt%C3%A9/1476943929044085/?utm_source=Balatoni+K%C3%96R+%C3%A9rdekl%C5%91d
%C5%91k&utm_campaign=ada03d8435-)

Websites
Csopaki Kódex - www.csopaki.hu
Dél Balatoni Borút Egyesület - www.delbalatonbor.hu
Badacsonyi Történelmi Borvideki Borút Egyesület - www.badacsonyiborut.hu
Balatoni Kör - www.facebook.com/balatonikor
Vinea Balaton - www.facebook.com/vinea.balaton/
Rizling Generáció - www.rizlinggeneracio.hu
Witness Mountain Wines - www.witnessmountainwines.co.uk
Borarum Go Volcanic – www.borarum.hu
Balaton Gastro Map - www.gasztroterkepek.hu
Vinum Vulcanum Badacsonyi Lovagrend - www.vinumvulcanum.hu

Books
Bányai Gábor Botond, Ercsey Dániel, Mészáros Gabriella, Tompa Imre - Nagy Magyar Boratlasz
(Borigo Kiadvány 2012)

Personal interviews or questionnaires

Eva Cartwright – Somló wine shop, Borarum Go Volcanic and Witness Mountain Wines
Tamás Kovács – Csopaki Kódex and Szent Donat Winery
Krisztián Gyukli – Rizling Generáció and Gyukli Winery

* All electronic articles and websites last accessed on 18 May 2017.

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Appendix 1 – Map of Hungarian wine regions

Source: http://static.eu2013.lt/uploads/documents/iliustracijos/VVynu_regionai.jpg

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Appendix 2 – Csopaki Kódex quality pyramid

Source: Csopaki Kódex – www.csopaki.hu

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Appendix 3 – BalatonBor image

Source: https://forbes.hu/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/balatonbor_hajo_stock.jpg

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Candidate Name: Sue Tolson Wein Akademiker Thesis Renaissance of the Balaton

Appendix 4 – Vinea Balaton map

Source: Vinea Balaton - https://www.facebook.com/vinea.balaton/

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