MTD SERVICE LLC Product Training and Education Department

TABLE OF CONTENTS
WORK SAFETY—FOLLOW THESE RULES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 1
11

GENERAL INFORMATION AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 2 2

Batteries and Charging Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-2

SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 3 3

General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-1
600 Series Rider Only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-1
Electric Start System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-3 4
Troubleshooting Safety Interlock Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-15
Evaluating Electric Clutches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-25
Process of Elimination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-43
Resistance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-43
Magneto Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-43
5
Grounding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-43
Use of Test Instruments in Circuit Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-43
Burnishing Procedure for Electric Clutch/Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-45
6
BELTS AND DRIVE SYSTEMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 4
General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-1
Proper Storage of V-Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-3
Causes of V-Belt Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-3
V-Belt Problems with Rotary Tillers, Self-Propelled Mowers and Riding Mowers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-4
Pulley Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5
Idlers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-6
Transmatic Lawn Tractors 600 and 700 Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-15
Transmatic Tractors 800 Series. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-27
Models 600 & 800 Series Tractors Drag Link Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-30
Gear Drive 800 Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-35
Hydrostatic Drive 800 Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-36
Hydrostatic Drive 900 Series . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-43
Rider and Tractor Frame Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-45
TRANSAXLES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 5
Disassembly of Heavy Duty Single Speed Transaxle, Model No. 618-0003 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-2
MTD 2 Speed Transmission Theory of Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-7
Two Speed Transaxle 1996 and Prior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-10
Disassembly of 4-Wheel Steer Transaxle, Model No. 717-1287 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-20
Servicing the 618-0229 MTD 2 Speed Transaxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-21
Hydrostatic Transaxle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-30

HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 6

General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-1
Model 7 Hydrostatic Transmission. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-2
BDU-105 Hydrostatic Transmission. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-6
Model 310-0500/0750 Intergrated Hydrostatic Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-25
Model 11 Hydrostatic Transmission. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-26
800 Series Hydrostatic Removal & Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-48

900 SERIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 7

 Hydrostatic Transmission Control Adjustment7-2
Hydraulic Lift Valve Adjustment7-4
Power Take Off (PTO) Adjustment7-5
PTO Belt Removal7-5
Rear Wheel Track Adjustment7-5
Undercarriage Locks7-6
Drive Shaft Removal7-6
Three Point Hitch Assembly7-7
Leveling the Deck (Optional Equipment)7-8

CUTTING DECKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 8

Model 931 44-inch Rear Discharge Mowing Deck8-6
Model 806, 846, and Series 800 “H” 46-inch Side Discharge Mowing Deck8-15
Model Series 800 “P” 50-inch Side Discharge Deck8-20
50-inch Side Discharge Deck for 900 Series Garden Tractor8-24
Model 824 Electric Sleeve Hitch8-27
30-inch Hydraulic Tiller Attachment8-31
Hydraulic Tiller Component Replacement8-39
46" Dozer Blade8-51

GLOSSARY

Glossary
 WORK SAFELY—FOLLOW THESE RULES 1
This symbol is used to call your attention to instructions concerning
your personal safety. Be sure to observe and follow these instructions.

1. To prevent accidental starting, always pull the d. Keep the heater at least four feet from
high tension wire(s) off the spark plug(s) before combustible materials.
servicing and/or adjusting the machine. e. Never use gasoline as fuel.

2. To prevent injury, do not allow children or 8. Handle gasoline with care—it is highly flamma-
bystanders around the machine while it is ble.
being adjusted and/or serviced.
a. Use approved gasoline container.
3. Do not wear rings, wrist watches or loose fitting
clothing when working on machinery; they b. Never remove the fuel tank cap or fill the
could catch on moving parts causing serious fuel tank when the engine is running, is hot
injury. Wear sturdy, rough-soled work shoes. or indoors. Also, do not smoke when work-
Never adjust and/or service a machine in bare ing around flammable fuel.
feet, sandals or sneakers.
c. Avoid fires—be sure container or funnel
4. Always wear safety glasses when using a does not touch the battery. Do not overfill
hammer, chisel or other tools that may cause the fuel tank. Wipe up spilled gasoline.
chips to fly.
d. Replace fuel tank cap securely.
5. Be sure to reinstall safety devices, guards or
shields after adjusting and/or servicing the 9. Never use trouble lights or electric powered
machine. tools that have cut and/or damaged cords or
plugs. Be sure all electric tools are properly
6. When operating a power washer to clean a grounded.
machine before servicing, be careful at all
times to avoid injury. Maintain proper footing 10. Never run an engine in a confined area such
and balance at all times. Never direct the spray as a garage or storage building any longer
at people or animals, as high pressure spray than is necessary for immediate moving of the
can cause serious injury. machine out of or into the area. EXHAUST
GASES ARE TOXIC. OPENING DOORS AND
7. If a portable heater is used to heat the service WINDOWS MAY NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE
area, the following precautions must be VENTILATION.
observed:
11. After servicing, be sure all tools, parts or ser-
a. Do not use portable heaters in presence of vicing equipment are removed from the
volatile materials such as gasoline or paint, machine.
as fire or explosion may result.
12. Electrical storage batteries give off highly
b. To avoid being burned, do not touch the inflammable hydrogen gas when charging and
heater during operation. continue to do so for some time after receiving
a steady charge. Do not under any circum-
c. Portable heaters consume oxygen and stances allow an electric spark or an open
combustion fumes can be hazardous. flame near the battery. Always disconnect a
Heater should be used only in a well-venti- battery cable before working on the electrical
lated area. Keep a window or door partially system.
open to provide ventilation.

1-1
13. Hydraulic fluid escaping under pressure can 16. When splitting tractors or disassembling
have enough force to penetrate the skin. machines, be sure to use safety stands and
Hydraulic fluid may also infect a minor cut or adequate supports to prevent tipping or roll-
opening in the skin. If injured by escaping fluid, over.
see a doctor at once. Serious infection or reac-
tion can result if medical treatment is not given 17. Use a safety catch on all hoist hooks. Do not
immediately. take a chance, the load could slip off the hook.

Do not attempt to repair or tighten hoses that 18. Use pullers to remove bearings, bushings,
are under pressure, when the boom is raised gears, cylinder sleeves, etc. when applicable.
or with the tractor engine running. Cycle all Use hammers, punches and chisels only when
hydraulic control valves to relieve all pressure absolutely necessary. Then, be sure to wear
before disconnecting the lines or performing safety glasses.
other work on the hydraulic system. Make sure
all connections are tight and hoses and lines 19. Be careful when using compressed air to dry
are in good condition before applying pressure parts. Use approved air blow guns, do not
to the system. To locate a leak under pressure, exceed 30 psi, wear safety glasses or goggles
use a small piece of cardboard or wood. Never and use proper shielding to protect everyone in
use hands. the work area.

14. When using an acetylene torch, always wear 20. Petroleum based solvents, often used for
welding goggles and gloves. Keep a charged cleaning parts, are flammable. Use care to
fire extinguisher within reach. Do not weld or avoid fire or explosion when using these sol-
heat areas near fuel tanks or fuel lines and uti- vents.
lize proper shielding around hydraulic lines.
IMPORTANT: The above is only a partial list of
15. Always use safety stands in conjunction with safe work rules. In addition, always refer to the
hydraulic jacks or hoists. Do not rely on the Operator’s Manual for the specific machine for
jack or hoist to carry the load; it could fail. additional safe work rules regarding the
Always use a safety bar to block hydraulic cyl- machine operation.
inders.

1-2
 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
2-1. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.
NOTE
2-1.1 Refer to the Safety Summary on page 1-1, and 2
observe all WARNINGS and CAUTIONS when LEFT and RIGHT indicate the left and right
servicing equipment covered in this manual. side when facing forward in the driver’s seat or
behind the piece of equipment.
2-2. GENERAL.
2-4. NUMBERING SYSTEM.
2-2.1 This service manual covers lawn mowers, rid-
ing equipment, snowthrowers, chore perform- 2-4.1 Due to the many different models, types of
ers, rotary tillers and accessories through equipment and parts, it is very important to
model year 1998. understand the MTD numbering system and
how it is used. The following pages, Figures
2-2.2 More detailed instructions can be found in and Tables will explain the system and what
each of the individual model service manuals. each number and digit means.

2-3. REFERENCE DATA. NOTE

2-3.1 Serial Number Location. Serial number plate is IMPORTANT: When ordering replacement
located behind the seat on the rear fender. See parts, it is necessary to use both the model
Figure 2-1. number and the date code.

2-4.2 Due to the many different colors of rims and

different tire tread designs on riding mowers,
orders for replacement tires and wheel assem-
blies must specify both color and tire brand.
These can be identified by using the appropri-
ate 900 series number after the part number.

NOTE

If you are entering an order electronically, the

tire identification number can be entered where
the paint code number is entered for a painted
part.

2-5. CUSTOMER NUMBERS.

2-5.1 In addition to customers who purchase tractors

and equipment marked with the MTD brand
and name logos, there are customers who
order tractors and equipment marked with their
own brand name and/or logos. Basic units are
the same except for color and decoration.
Figure 2-1. Refer to the master book for further informa-
tion.

2-1
 BATTERIES AND CHARGING SYSTEMS
2-6. GENERAL.

2-6.1 The main storage or electrical power in our

electric start lawn mowers, riders and tractors
is the battery. With proper setup and mainte-
nance the battery will last for years. However,
in some remote cases even with proper main-
tenance a battery can lose power. This is
unavoidable and should be handled as per
warranty guidelines.

2-6.2 A chemical reaction between the battery’s

electrolyte and plates, or electrodes, will sup-
ply electrical energy to an external circuit.
When the battery is being used, or discharg-
ing, the positive plate (lead dioxide) and the
negative plate (sponge lead) are both changed
to lead sulphate. At the same time, part of the
electrolyte (diluted sulfuric acid) is changed to
water. This conversion of diluted sulfuric acid
to water reduces the specific gravity of the
electrolyte. By measuring this specific gravity,
a direct measure of how far the discharge pro-
cess has progressed can be made.

2-7. BATTERIES AND CHARGING RATES.

2-7.1 There are basically 5 different batteries used.

In this section we will show the battery number,
the replacement number, cause of replace-
ment, size, cold cranking amps and amp hours
at a given rate.

1. Battery 725-0514A (Figure 2-2) is replaced by

725-1633. These batteries are used on riders
and are the same size with the same cold
cranking amps. The number was changed due
to shipping regulations which would not allow
acid packs to be shipped with batteries. Acid
packs can be obtained by ordering part num-
ber 725-1637; how-ever, we suggest dealer
obtain acid locally. Battery caps, part number 3. Battery 725-1105 which was supplied in 1987
725-0691, can also be ordered separately. is no longer available. Use kit number 753-
0459 as a replacement. The kit includes a bat-
2. Battery 725-0453A (Figure 2-3) is shipped with tery, cover and adapting clip. The larger termi-
no acid. Acid can be obtained by ordering part nal end goes on the negative side of the
number 725-1637, but it is suggested acid be battery. The adapting clip also goes on the
purchased locally. Battery caps can also be negative side. The electric start unit uses a 7
purchased separately by ordering part number amp fuse system.
725-0690. Battery 725-0453A was used on
1989 and prior 700 and 800 series tractors. 4. Battery pack 725-1276 (Figure 2-4) is installed
This battery is currently used in the 900 series in electric lawn mowers.
tractor.

2-2
 2

NOTE

Batteries 725-1430 only contain a special

chemical sulfate stop that has been added to
reduce sulfate crystal deposits (which eventu-
ally prevent the battery from accepting a
charge). Sulfate stop is a white powder chemi-
cal that may be visible before the battery is
activated, but dissolved once electrolyte is
NOTE
added. After charging the battery (with sulfate
stop added), the specific gravity of electrolyte
During shipment, the hot wire can vibrate off
rises to 1.280 or above. On a 5 ball hydrome-
the battery and the unit will not start. Take the
ter, it is acceptable to see the fifth ball float. If
battery cover off, hook up the wire and charge
the battery contains sulfate stop and has not
the battery.
been in use for a long period of time, extended
recharging time is required.
5. Battery 725-1430 (Figure 2-5) is replaced by
725- 1635. These batteries are the same size
2-7.2 BATTERIES SECTION 1996-1998
with the same cold cranking amp. The number
was changed due to shipping regulations
#725-0453 E
which do not allow acid packs to be shipped
Battery Type U1-11L
with batteries. Acid packs can be obtained by
Dry 380 CCA Cold Cranking Amps @ Zero Degrees
ordering part number 725-1637; however, we
Group No. U1L
suggest dealers obtain acid locally.
Voltage 12V
Size Top 5.18 x 7.7
Number of plates 66
Height 6.12 to top of post 7.16
Weight wet 20.6 lbs.
Electrolyte capacity 72 oz.

2-3
Previously this battery was 240 CCA and it has been Battery #725-1707C
upgraded to 380 CCA which gives added cranking DRY 275 CCA Cold Cranking Amps.
power in cold weather. It is shipped dry and it is sug- Battery Type U-1 Flat Top
gested that the acid should be purchased locally. The Size 5.19 x 7.72
acid pack number as shown is #725-1670 but acid is Height 6.12 Including Post 7.30
considered to be hazardous material, therefore when Voltage 12V
shipped, charges will be excessive due to special han- Manifold Vented
dling.
Specifications for ’97-’98 will be the same except all will
Battery #725-1704 be flat top style. The knobs will be flush with the top of
Note! New Warning symbols the battery.
Battery Type U-1
Wet 125 CCA Cold Cranking Amps YUASA - EXIDE makes the DRY, add acid type batter-
All batteries are date coded ies EAST P E N N makes the WET non-service able-
Replaced by #725-1707 C DRY 275 CCA Cold type battery.
Cranking Amps
Size 5.18 x 7.7 WET batteries are anticipated to be used in 50% of our
Height 6.12 with Post 7.29 production for fast moving product customers, all bat-
Voltage 12 volts teries can not be shipped wet because they would
have a shorter shelf life than a dry battery.
The #725-1704 is a wet battery meaning that it is
shipped in the rider and it is hooked up with the positive For ’97 - ’98 little changes are anticipated. Dependabil-
terminal connected and the negative terminal has a ity over all styles will remain the same. Replacement
plastic cover over it to protect from shorting out. The batteries will continue to be shipped without acid, and
purpose of this is to assist stores with fast product turn- acid must be obtained locally due to acid being a haz-
over and in this manner the unit is ready to operate in ardous material, therefore requires special handling
the least amount of set-up time. when shipped.

Battery #725-1705C New for ’98 season batteries will be similar in size but
WET 150 CCA Cold Cranking Amps. top will be flat with nothing sticking up except the posts.
Battery Type U-1 Fill caps will be flush with the top of the battery.
All batteries are date coded
Replaced by #725-1707C DRY 275 CCA Cold Batteries must be properly maintained if you
Cranking Amps. want long-life, this remark is repeated over and
Voltage 12V over...

The #725-1705C is a wet battery and it is the same as 1. Check the electrolyte and add only water.
stated above. If a failure occurs in warranty the #725-
1707C will be shipped. 2. Keep clean, excessive acid build up around
Battery #725-1706 the terminals and top of battery will cause a
WET 270 CCA Cold Cranking Amps. discharge and drain the battery.
Battery Type U-1
Negative terminal covered with a plastic cover and 3. Check cables and clamps and battery case for
shipped with the positive cable connected. obvious reasons of leakage as this could
Replaced by #725-1707C DRY 275 CCA Cold cause damage to the painted surfaces, the
Cranking Amp. battery compartments and to the pulleys and
All batteries are date coded transmission.
Battery is non-serviceable
Voltage 12V 4. Make sure of the routing of the vent tubes and
that it is not pinched and left to drip on pulleys,
The #725-1706 is a wet battery and is shipped in the etc.
tractor and is ready to go by just removing the plastic
cover on the negative terminal and connecting the neg- 5. Replace caps firmly, if one or two gets lost,
ative cable to the negative terminal. replace them as soon as possible, often they
can be obtained from old batteries.

2-4
 6. Maintain a fully charged battery with a reading 2. Dual circuit—3 amp AC system that runs
by hydrometer showing 1.265. the lights and a 3 amp DC circuit to charge
battery
2-7.3 Recently, a man well experienced in automo-
biles and lawn and garden equipment was 3. Tri-circuit—5 amp two diode system
charging a battery in his automobile in the 2
garage for a long period of time and decided to 4. Regulated 16 amp system
check on how it was progressing. He walked
into a partially dark garage, not thinking, and MTD mainly uses the dual circuit and regulated
leaned over the battery and flipped on this cig- systems.
arette lighter. Well, you can guess what hap-
pened next. The electrolyte gas exploded, 2-9.2 Regulated systems are installed on units with
which is hydrogen and oxygen. He was very electric clutches. These are Briggs and Strat-
lucky to have glasses on as the top of the bat- ton engines with a voltage regulator. Some of
tery hit him in the face. He quickly remembered the early units had an 8 amp circuit breaker in
to turn the hose on his face and wash off the the unit. This is a 16 amp unit and needs a 20
acid which was starting to burn and no damage amp circuit breaker (part number 725-1382).
was done, but he was left quite shaken and
thankful that things worse didn’t take place. 2-9.3 Dual Circuit (Engine Alternator) (Figure 2-
Think about it. His glasses were broken and 6).
bent tight to his eyes which helped protect his
eyes, which proves it is a good practice to 1. The charging system is an alternator located
wear glasses when working with batteries. under the flywheel. A half wave rectification
(single diode) is unregulated and rated at 3
2-8. BATTERY STARTING CIRCUITS. amps at 3600 RPM.

2-8.1 Battery starting circuits consists of the follow-

ing:

1. Battery as a source of energy

2. Starter solenoid switch to transfer high

starting current from battery to starter
(starter relay)

3. Key start switch or other switch to energize

the starter solenoid

4. Starter. A series wound, low resistance,

high current draw direct current motor.

NOTE
2. The diode changes AC to DC to charge the
Sometimes the circuit breaker kicks out and battery. A bad diode can either fail to charge
will not allow the unit to crank. Check the diode the battery or discharge the battery if the alter-
wires to see if they are crossed. Reverse the nator is shorted as well as the diode.
diode wires if crossed.
3. The 7 amp AC terminal operates the head
2-9. BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM. lamps. The voltage rises from 8 volts at 2400
RPM to 12 volts at 3600 RPM. Therefore, the
2-9.1 There are four types of charging systems typi- brightness of the lights changes with engine
cally used on lawn and garden equipment. speed. In certain situations it is necessary to
make use of the entire AC signal. To accom-
1. Single circuit—3 amp system with one plish this we use multiple diodes in a bridge
diode configuration. This produces full wave rectifica-

2-5
 tion (regulator) which is regulated and rated 16
amps at 3600 RPM.

4. The 16 amp DC terminal at 3600 RPM oper-

ates the head lamp. The regulated system pro-
duces 12 volts DC which goes to the battery.
Engine speed will determine amount of amps
regulated.

2-9.4 Testing the DC Circuit (Figure 2-7).

2-10. BATTERY SHIPPING AND STORAGE.

2-10.1 Check List For Proper Battery Storage.

1. Electrolyte level correct.

2. Battery fully charged.

3. The exterior of the battery is clean.

4. Store battery in a cool place.

1. Disconnect the charger lead from the battery
5. Rotate stock. Always use the oldest battery
(small red wire).
first.
2. Connect a 12 volt test lamp between the DC
2.10.2 Dry Charged Battery Storage.
charge lead and the positive terminal of the
battery.
1. A dry charged battery has a shelf life of about
five years.
3. With the engine off, the lamp should not light. If
it does, the diode and possibly the alternator
2. Keep in a cool, dry place with the humidity as
may have failed.
low as possible with a temperature between
60°F and 90°F. The temperature should be uni-
4. Start the engine. The lamp should light. If it
form and not subject to frequent changes.
does not, the alternator (starter) or lead wire
could be bad.
3. Once a dry charged battery is actuated, it must
be maintained the same as any wet battery.
2-9.5. Battery Runs Down.
2-10.3 Wet Battery Storage.
2-9.5.1 Testing Alternator Charging Output. Install
ammeter in series with charging lead. See Fig-
1. Wet batteries will slowly discharge while in
ure 2-7. Start engine. Ammeter should indicate
storage.
charge. The charge rate is dependent upon the
condition of the battery. If ammeter shows no
2. Batteries not used in the winter should be
charge, test stator and regulator.
stored in a fully charged condition.

2-6
 3. Batteries in storage discharge slower when 3. Ventilate when charging or using battery in
kept cold than when too warm. enclosed space.

4. The best place to store the battery is in the 4. Make sure venting path of battery is always
equipment. open once battery is filled with acid.
2
2-11. ACTIVATING BATTERY. NOTE

2-11.1 The instructions listed below are packed with When the battery is charged, the heat will
every battery shipped with each unit. Following expand the electrolyte.
these steps will prevent premature battery fail-
ure. 1. Allow the battery to sit 20 to 30 minutes. This
allows the chemical action to take place.
WARNING
2. The battery must be charged at the maximum
LAWN AND GARDEN EQUIPMENT BAT- rate until a specific gravity is reached. See
TERY (DRY AND CHARGED) FILLING AND paragraph 2.9.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. Do not fill
with electrolyte until battery is actually placed 3. Add electrolyte until it reaches the split ring.
in service. This battery is supplied dry and
charged. Do not fill with electrolyte until bat- CAUTION
tery is to be used.
DO NOT ADD ACID. Add only distilled water.
WARNING
4. After charging, replace vent plugs firmly, wash
POISON—CAUSES SEVERE BURNS. Con- off acid spillage with water and dry the battery.
tains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin,
eyes or clothing. To prevent accidents, neutral- 5. If time does not permit charging the battery, or
ize excess acid with baking soda and rinse if charging equipment is not available, the bat-
empty container with water. KEEP OUT OF tery should be installed and the unit should be
THE REACH OF CHILDREN. run continuously for 20 to 30 minutes in order
ANTIDOTE: to sufficiently charge the battery.
EXTERNAL—Flush with water.
INTERNAL—Drink large quantities of water or 2-11.2 Preparation for filling the battery is very impor
milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten tant.
eggs or vegetable oil. Call physician immedi-
ately. 1. Remove vent plugs just before filling with elec-
EYES—Flush with water for 15 minutes and trolyte.
get prompt medical attention.
WARNING

WARNING Internal gas pressure can cause battery to

explode if sealing tube is left in place.
DANGER—BATTERY CONTAINS SULFU-
RIC ACID MAY CONTAIN EXPLOSIVE 2. If your battery has a short sealing tube on the
GASES. vent elbow and is supplied with a separate
long tube, pull off short one and replace with
1. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes or any flame long one.
away.
WARNING
2. Shield eyes, protect skin and clothing when
handling acid or battery containing acid or Electrolyte is sulfuric acid solution. Avoid spill-
working near such batteries. age and contact with skin, eyes and clothing.
See WARNING on back panel of battery.

2-7
 CAUTION 3. Decomposition of water leaves acid more con-
centrated. Concentrated acid is harmful to cell
Do not use water or any other liquid to acti- components, particularly at high temperatures
vate. During cold weather, if electrolyte (acid) over a prolonged period of time.
is stored in cold area, warm electrolyte to room
temperature before filling. 4. High internal heat is created, which acceler-
ates the above mentioned corrosion of positive
3. Fill battery with electrolyte (diluted sulfuric plate grids and damages separators and nega-
acid) of a specific gravity of 1.265. Fill to upper tives. Also, containers may be softened and
level as indicated on battery. Electrolyte should distorted.
be at room temperature before filling.
5. Overcharging alone or in combination with a
2-12. BATTERY INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. previous condition of undercharging may
cause severe buckling and warping of positive
1. Remove old battery. Mark which cable is con- plates with accompanying perforation of sepa-
nected to positive (+) and negative (-) termi- rators.
nals. Positive cable is usually red.
6. May cause damage by corrosion to battery
2. Clean cable connectors with wire brush or box, cables and other vital electrical and
sandpaper to remove oxidation. engine parts by forcing liquid from the cells if
charge rates are excessive.
3. After filling with acid and charging (see instruc-
tions), install new battery. Connect cables to 2-13.2 Undercharging.
the proper terminals. Positive cable to positive
terminal (+) and negative cable to negative ter- 1. A battery operated with insufficient charge over
minal (-). CONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE a long period of time may develop a type of
LAST. sulfate in the plates which is dense, hard and
coarsely crystalline and which cannot be
CAUTION readily electro-chemically converted to normal
active material again. Such lead sulfate, being
Connecting in reverse, positive to negative and less dense than the active material from which
negative to positive, can cause serious dam- it was formed, will set up strains in the positive
age to electrical system. plates so that distortion or bowing of the plates,
called buckling, may result. Buckling will be
4. Check vent tube to avoid any crimping or produced, especially if the sulfated battery is
obstruction to the tube. subjected to sudden prolonged overcharging,
as might be experienced by an alternator or
5. Securely fasten battery to the unit using its bat- generator-regulator system which has gotten
tery holddown arrangement. This will minimize out of adjustment. Severely buckled plates will
destructive vibration. pinch the separators at the plate corners or
chafe the center of the separators. This may
2-13. COMMON CAUSES FOR BATTERY FAIL- result in perforations of the separators and
URE. develop a short circuit in the cell.

2-13.1 Overcharging. Charging a battery greatly in 2. A battery operated in an undercharged condi-

excess of what is required is harmful in several tion is not only unable to deliver full power, but
ways, as follows: is liable to freeze during severe winter weather.
See paragraph 2-13.7.
1. Severely corrodes the positive plate grids with
consequent mechanical weakening and loss of 3. Lead sulfate formed on the plates during dis-
electrical conduction. charge is relatively insoluble as long as the
specific gravity of the electrolyte indicates a
2. Decomposes water of electrolyte into hydro- substantially charged condition. If allowed to
gen and oxygen gas. Gas bubbles tend to drop much below this state the lead sulfate
wash active material from the plates and carry becomes increasingly soluble and, aided by
moisture and acid from the cells as a fine mist. temperature fluctuations of the electrolyte, may
migrate over a considerable period of time into

2-8
 the pores of the separators and deposit as a 2-13.7 Freezing of Electrolyte.
white crystalline mass. Subsequent charging
may convert these crystalline deposits to 1. The electrolyte of a battery in various states of
metallic lead which may short the positive and charge will start to freeze at temperatures indi-
negative plates through the areas of the sepa- cated below. The given temperatures indicate
rators affected. These small shorts may cause the approximate points at which the first ice 2
a condition of low cell voltage when the battery crystals begin to appear in the solution. The
is charged. For this reason battery cells should solution does not freeze solid until a lower tem-
not be allowed to stand idle in a discharged perature is reached. Solid freezing of the elec-
condition. trolyte may crack the container and damage
the positive plates.
2-13.3 Lack of Water. Water is one of the essential
chemicals of a lead-acid storage battery and 2. A 3/4 charged automotive battery is in no dan-
under normal conditions of operation is the ger from freezing. Keep batteries at 3/4 charge
only component of the battery which is lost as or more, especially during winter weather.
a result of charging. It should be replaced as
soon as the liquid level falls to the top of the 3. Battery power decreases while the need for
separators. If water is not replaced, and the engine power increases with falling tempera-
plates are exposed, the acid will reach a dan- tures.
gerously high concentration that may char and 80°F 100%
disintegrate the separators and may perma- 32°F 66%
nently sulfate and impair the performance of 0°F 46%
the plates. Plates cannot take full part in the
battery action unless they are completely cov- 4. Sub-zero temperatures reduce the capacity of
ered by the electrolyte. Sulfuric acid must a fully charged battery to 30% of its normal
never be added to a cell unless it is known that power and at the same time increases crank-
acid has been spilled out or otherwise loose ing load beyond the normal warm weather
from the cell. load.

2-13.4 Loose Holddowns. Holddowns, if not properly NOTE

adjusted, may allow the battery to bounce
around in the battery box. This may cause the The above failures do not constitute a war-
bridges on which the elements rest to notch ranty.
the bottom of the separators and may cause
the plates to notch the bridge tops, causing a 2-14. TESTING THE BATTERY.
severe disarrangement of the elements. The
bouncing of the battery may also crack or wear 2-14.1 A visual inspection of battery should be done
the container badly and cause acid to leak. by checking for:
Leaking acid corrodes terminals and cables 1. Broken or leaking cover.
and results in high resistance battery connec-
tions, thereby weakening the battery’s power 2. Broken case.
and shortening its life. If holddowns are too
tight, they can distort or crack the container, 3. Damaged post.
allowing loss of acid from the cells. This will
cause loss of battery capacity. 4. Other.

2-13.5 Battery Electrolyte Substitutes. No satisfac- 2-14.2 Batteries should be handled with care. Never
tory substitute electrolyte has been found for leave battery standing in a discharged position.
the simple mixture of sulfuric acid in water. Use
no substitutes. WARNING

2-13.6 Excessive Loads. A battery should never be Never test a battery by striking a cable across
used to propel the rider by the use of the start- the output terminals. An internally shorted bat-
ing motor with clutch engaged except in a tery could EXPLODE.
great emergency. This may produce extremely
high internal battery temperature and damage 2-14.3 The hydrometer measures the state of charge.
the starting motor. Use of the hydrometer will also pinpoint a

2-9
 shorted cell which, in some instances, cannot
be charged or will not hold a charge. See Fig- 7. The inability to bring the specific gravity of any
ure 2-9. one cell up to 1.235 after charging is also an
indication of an unserviceable battery and it
1. Specific gravity tests must be performed should be condemned.
before adding water to the battery.
2. In the event the electrolyte level is too low to 8. After the recharge, let the battery stand at least
test with the hydrometer, add water and charge 24 hours, and repeat hydrometer test on all
before testing. cells. If there is a variation of 50 points or more
between the highest and lowest cell, condemn
the battery.

2-14.4 Batteries 725-1105 and 725-1276 are 12 volt

sealed lead-acid batteries. These batteries can
be checked by using a standard DC voltmeter.
When checking the voltage, the male terminal
of the connector plug of the harness is the neg-
ative terminal. See Figure 2-10.

3. A correct specific gravity reading can be mea-

sured only when the electrolyte temperature is
80°F. If the electrolyte temperature varies from
this temperature, compensation must be made
in the reading as follows:

a. Add four gravity points (.004) for each 10°

electrolyte temperature is above 80°F.

b. Subtract .004 for each 10° below 80°F.

4. In taking the hydrometer reading, the float 2-14.5 Check battery charge with voltmeter as fol-
must be floating freely and the eye must be lows:
even with the liquid level to obtain accurate
readings. NOTE

5. When all cells are tested, if the specific gravity Check to be certain the in-line fuse in the wire
between the highest and lowest cell varies 50 harness is OD.
points (.050) or more, condemn the battery; it
is no longer serviceable. 1. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter into
the male end of the plug on the wire harness.
6. If there is less than a 50 point variation
between the highest and lowest cell, and the 2. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter into
specific gravity in one or more cells is below the female pin on the plug on the wire harness.
1.235, recharge the battery.

2-10
 3. A fully charged battery will register 13.0 volts brought too near them. A room or compartment
on the voltmeter in which charging batteries are confined should
be ventilated. Do not bring flame or sparks
4. A battery that needs charging should read near vent openings.
between 11.0 and 13.0 volts.

5. If the reading is below 10.0 volts on the voltme- WARNING

2
ter, the battery probably will not accept a
charge and should be replaced. In all automotive battery cells small quantities
of hydrogen gas are given off at the negative
2-15. BATTERY CHARGERS AND CHARGING. plates when the cells are not being charged. It
must therefore be assumed that explosive mix-
2-15.1 Restore charge. tures of hydrogen gas are present within the
cells at all times. A torch, match flame, lighted
1. An electric current is sent through the cell in cigarette or sparks from metal tools acciden-
the reverse direction to that in which the cur- tally contacting the terminals could cause igni-
rent flows when the battery is delivering cur- tion of the gases.
rent. The charging rate must be slightly higher
than the voltage. A single battery cell produces
approximately 2 volts. A 12 volt battery will WARNING
consist of six 2 volt cells. To charge a 12 volt
battery requires (.5 volts x 6 cells = 3 volts) (12 To avoid sparks, do not disturb connections
volts + 3 volts = 15 volts). When a battery is between batteries while charging: first throw
discharged, its internal resistance is low. In this switch “off” at the charger. The possibility of
low resistance condition, the battery will draw a ignition of hydrogen gas by static electricity
greater charging current. As the battery when working on or near batteries is mini-
becomes charged, the internal resistance mized by grounding ones self and the vehicle
increases and the current draw will diminish. to remove any static charge.

2. Batteries should only be tested with a hydrom- WARNING

eter for specific gravity, or a test device that
applies a current draw to the battery while test- The improper use of a booster battery to start a
ing. A voltmeter does not give an accurate indi- rider, when the normal battery is inadequate,
cation of battery condition, as even a partially presents a definite explosion hazard. To mini-
discharged battery will indicate correct voltage mize this hazard the following procedures are
when not under load. The normal specific grav- suggested.
ity of a charged battery should be between
1.285 and 1.300 approximately. A discharged CAUTION
battery cell has a specific gravity of 1.150
approximately. Exceeding the recommended charging rate
can cause warping of the plates and will affect
2-15.2 Recharging is necessary when you find lights the life of the battery.
get dim, and/or when battery is not used for
longer than one month. Charge the 12 volt bat- 1. When possible, use equipment with a switch in
tery with a 12 volt 1 amp automotive charger. the line connecting the booster battery to the
Recommended charging for 6 volt or a 12 volt installed battery. Check to see that both batter-
battery should not exceed 1 amp. Charge until ies have the same voltage type: e.g., 6 volt or
battery gases freely and specific gravity of 12 volt.
electrolyte rises to 1.265 or above.
2. If only jumper cables are available and the
WARNING booster battery is in a car, set the hand brakes,
turn off accessory switches and ignition keys
When charging, care must be taken to venti- and place the gearshift or gear selector in the
late the fumes from the battery as they are neutral or park position for both vehicles. Now
highly EXPLOSIVE. The gases issuing from a proceed in exact sequence.
charging battery are a mixture of hydrogen and
oxygen gases and will explode with great vio- 3. Always rock the connector clips to insure
lence and spraying of acid if a spark or flame is secure grip contact.

2-11
 a. Connect one end of first cable to the termi-
nal of the discharged battery which is con- c. There is no voltage present at the wall
nected to the starter switch or solenoid socket.
(not grounded). Note if this is the positive
or negative battery terminal. d. The charger should be checked once more
by touch within an hour. Use caution when
b. Connect the other end of the first cable to touching the charger.
the terminal post of the booster battery
having the same marking; that is, positive 6. Normally, if the unit starts the first time, it is
to positive or negative to negative. Most unlikely that the wire harness is defective.
have a negative grounded electrical sys- However, if the wire harness is suspect after
tem. using the above procedures, it should be
replaced.
c. Connect the first end of the second jumper
cable to the other terminal of the booster 2-15.4 Plug-in Trickle Chargers. Different trickle
battery. With the other end make final con- chargers are used for different batteries. The
nection and this is to be the rider frame of following is a list of chargers and the rate at
the mower with the discharged battery as which the batteries are to be charged.
far away as possible from the battery.
Plug-In Trickle Chargers
2-15.3 Charging the Battery.
725-0727 300 ma. use on 725-1105 and 725-1276
1. Connect the charger to the lawn mower har- battery
ness.
725-0507 1/2 amp charger, used on 725-0415
2. Plug the charger into a 110 volt AC wall outlet.
725-0579 Alligator clips for 725-0507 charger to be
3. Check the charger after 15 minutes. The used when charger does not plug into the
charger should be warm to the touch (approxi- wire harness
mately 100°F).
725-0156 Old red Schauer charger. Not available.
WARNING Use 753-0220. This kit consists of:
1 725-0507 charger
Charger could be HOT and cause burns. 1 725-0579

4. If the charger is hot, it is drawing too much cur- Charging Rates

rent and should be disconnected immediately.
One of the following conditions exist: 725-0130 automotive type with tapered terminals 15
amp maximum
a. The battery is defective.
725-0453
b. The polarity of the battery connectors is
reversed. 725-0661 4-5 amp maximum

c. There is a short in the wire harness. 725-0117

5. If the charger is cold to the touch, one of the 725-0726 300 ma. elec. start self-propelled
following conditions exist:
725-1104 lawn mowers
a. The battery is not connected to the wire
harness. 725-1276

b. The charger is bad. Check the output volt- 725-0514 motorcycle type 3 amp maximum
age.
2-15.5 New Information Concerning Battery
It should be above 9 volts DC with the male Charging. It is important that new batteries are
terminal of the charger being positive. charged according to the owner’s guide or

2-12
 Technical Handbooks Volume I, II and III. We 3. Clean the battery and cable contact surface to
have found that rider and tractor batteries do a bright metal finish whenever they are
not have memories, and the capability of removed. Coat the contact surfaces with min-
recharging a low or dead battery is feasible. A eral grease or petroleum jelly before the termi-
3 to 10 amp taper charger should be used; nals are reconnected.
charging time varies between 12 to 40 hours. 2
This charging procedure should be followed 4. Inspect battery box and adjust holddowns.
prior to checking the specific gravity or con- Urge replacement if unserviceable.
demning any rider or tractor battery.
5. Check electrolyte level once a month. If found
Table 2-1.Specific Gravity Freezing Points below middle of UPPER and LOWER LEVEL,
Specific Gravity Freezing Point add clean drinking water to restore level.
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F WARNING
1.200 -17°F
1.150 5°F NEVER use ACID to refill a battery.
1.100 18°F
1.050 27°F 6. Make hydrometer or voltage test.

2-16 MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE. 7. Keep exhaust tube free of kinks and obstruc-
tions.
2-16.1 Proper maintenance and service could extend
the life of a battery. The following procedures 8. Store battery with a full charge. A discharged
should be taken: battery will freeze.

1. Clean battery top with a stiff brush, being care- NOTE

ful not to scatter corrosion products. Wipe off
with a cloth wetted with ammonia or baking All batteries discharge during storage.
soda in water. Fully wipe with a cloth with clean Recharge battery every two months and before
water. returning to service.

2. Inspect cables—urge replacement if unser- 9. Carefully inspect and recharge the battery at
viceable. Inspect the terminals posts to see the beginning and end of each mowing sea-
that they are not deformed or broken. son.

2-13
2-14
 SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEMS

3-1. GENERAL.

3-1.1 There are two basic electric wiring systems

used: one for battery start models and one for
recoil start models. All safety systems used are
based on the same principle. 3
3-1.2 Most riders and tractors produced in 1982
were equipped with a reverse safety switch.
This safety system required the cutting deck to
be disengaged before the unit can be shifted
into reverse gear. These systems will be used
on all current production units.

3-1.3 The lift and disengagement lever is used to

raise and lower the cutting deck which deter-
mines the cutting height. Pulling it all the way
back and locking it disengages the blades. The
lift and disengagement lever MUST be in the
disengaged position when starting the engine,
when shifting into reverse or if the operator
leaves the seat.

3-1.4 All lawn and garden tractors produced after

July, 1987 were requested by ANSI (American
National Standards Institute) to have an opera-
tor present as an added safety feature. If the
operator leaves the seat with the blades or
PTO engaged, the engine will shut off. This Figure 3-1.
seat switch is a safety device, designed for
your protection. See Figure 3-1. 3-1.8 For further information regarding this section,
refer to the Technical Service Video “Safety
WARNING Interlock Systems.”

NEVER attempt to bypass this operation. WARNING

3-1.5 In mid 1986, safety switches were added to At no time should the safety interlock system
most lawn and garden tractors, internally be bypassed for consumer’s operation or con-
mounted in the seat. venience.

3-1.6 On 1988 production, the location and type of NOTE

safety switch was changed on most front
engine lawn tractors. It was mounted on the The safety interlock system for 1991 has some
seat bracket under the seat and it will shut off changes that may or may not retrofit prior pro-
the engine with the deck engaged, with less duction units.
than 40 lbs. of weight on the safety seat.
3-2 600 Series Rider Only.
3-1.7 The 1990 riders and tractors have incorporated
a new seat safety switch. The operator must 1. The PTO safety switch mounting bracket was
engage the parking brake before leaving seat changed for added support to 14 gauge steel.
or unit will stall out. This new switch will also be This will retrofit 1990 production units. See Fig-
present on riders and tractors with electric ure 3-2.
PTO’s.

3-1
 Figure 3-2. Mounting Bracket.
2. The standard battery used in the 600 series is
725-0514 (125 cold cranking amps). This bat-
tery can now be replaced by part number 725-
1430 (275 cold cranking amps) by removing
the battery spring retainer to allow clearance
for the larger battery. This will not retrofit prior
production units. See Figure 3-3.

Figure 3-4. Steering Wheel.

NOTE

The indicator wires should be positioned at the

bottom of the steering wheel (6 o’clock posi-
tion).

4. Place the indicator wires through the cable tie

located on the bottom side of the steering
wheel insert. Connect the wires to the corre-
sponding wires in the steering wheel insert.
Tighten the cable tie on the insert to securely
hold the wires in position.
Figure 3-3. Battery With Spring Retainer.
3. Attach the steering wheel and indicator light 5. Snap the steering wheel insert over the four
panel as follows: spokes making sure the indicator lights are
positioned towards the bottom.
a. Place the indicator wires through the steer-
ing bellows and place the bellows over the 6. Tighten the special cable tie in such a manner
steering shaft. so the cable tie can slide up and down the wire
harness which goes through the dash panel.
b. Place the five wires through the slotted (Slide the cable tie up until it rests against the
hole located towards the center of the hole on the inside of the dash panel.)
steering wheel hub. With the front wheels
positioned straight forward, place the 7. Turn the steering wheel fully in both directions.
steering wheel over the steering shaft. Pull the wires down from the dash and slide
Secure with the cupped washer and lock the cable tie down an additional 1/4 inch and
nut provided in the screwpack. See Figure tighten the cable tie securely. While doing this
3-4. procedure the cable tie will automatically posi-
tion itself on the harness to prevent damage to
the wires during normal operation.

3-2
 CAUTION chances of a short. This also will retrofit prior
production unit
Do not cut off excess cable tie. The excess end
will help keep the harness from being drawn up 3-2.2 600, 700 and 800 Series Only. The circuit
into the steering wheel and causing serious breaker is being replaced by a standard auto-
damage to the wires. motive type fuse. Nonregulated electrical sys-
tems will use a 7-1/2 amp fuse. On regulated
3-2.1 All Riders and Tractors. electrical systems, a 20 amp fuse will be used.
This will not retrofit prior production units. See
1. The clutch safety switch has a retainer bracket Figure 3-7. 3
for added support. This will retrofit 1990 pro-
duction units. See Figure 3-5.

Figure 3-7. Fuse Holder.

Figure 3-5. Retainer Bracket.
NOTE
NOTE
Although this will not retrofit our prior produc-
tion units, there are, however, two separate
If the clutch safety switch (part number 725-
fuses: the 7.5 amp fuse for a standard dual cir-
3169A) is ordered, it will NOT come with the
cuit alternating system and the 20 amp fuse for
retainer bracket or screws. To retrofit to a pre
a regulated system.
1991 production unit, it is necessary to order
the retaining bracket (part number 179162)
3-3. ELECTRIC START SYSTEM.
and two screws (part number 710-0351).
3-3.1 Before the engine will crank, the key must be
2. The seat safety switch insulator nut plates
turned on and both of the safety switches must
have been redesigned to reduce the chances
be activated. One is activated when the clutch
of a direct short. This will retrofit 1990 produc-
is depressed and one is activated when the
tion units. See Figure 3-6.
blade is disengaged. When this happens the
circuit will be complete between the battery
and the coil primary of the solenoid. This will
close the solenoid which will allow the starter
motor to crank the engine. The safety switches
are wired in series on the electric start models.
See Figure 3-8.

3-3.2 Testing the Interlock System on the Electric

Start System.

1. Starting instructions:

a. Disengaged the blade or PTO.

Figure 3-6. Safety Switch Insulator Nut Plates.
b. Depress the clutch pedal.
NOTE
c. Set the throttle (and choke if separate).
This boss plate goes all the way through the
two spring switches and will reduce the

3-3
 d. Turn the ignition key to the START posi- b. The negative terminal on the battery and
tion. the ground to the frame.
NOTE
c. The ignition switch terminal.
If the engine does not crank, use the following
procedure to check out the system. If the d. The clutch safety switch.
engine cranks but does not start, the problem
is not with the interlock system. engaging of e. The blade safety switch.
the blade and the depressing of the clutch
depresses the black plunger a minimum of 1/8 f. The solenoid terminals. A small wire is fas-
inch. tened to the coil primary and the two larger
wires are fastened to each side.
3. Check the fuse or circuit breaker between the
positive terminal of the battery and the ignition 5. Check the condition of your battery. Even if the
switch. If the fuse or circuit breaker is blown battery is dead you should be able to hear the
the engine will not crank. solenoid click. This would verify that the start-
ing system is operating at least to the solenoid.
4. Check the following terminal to see that the The specific gravity of the battery should be
wires are in place. 1.265.

a. The positive terminal of the battery. A large 6. A continuity tester can be used to check the
and a small wire should be fastened continuity between each component of the
securely to this terminal. On some units interlock system. Follow the instructions
both wires are cast into one clamp. packed with the continuity tester which can be
purchased at electrical shops.

Figure 3-8. Typical Electric Start System.

3-4
 WARNING NOTE

To test the interlock system further, you will be Transmission lever must not be touching the
bypassing the safety switches. Make sure that reverse spring switch and the key must be in
the clutch is disengaged and the blade the ON position.
engagement lever is in the disengaged posi-
tion. If the clutch cannot be locked in the disen- 1. Disconnect the yellow wire going to the mag-
gaged position, place the gear shift lever in the neto on the engine.
neutral (N) position. When using a jumper wire
in the following tests the engine may crank 2. Disconnect the wire attached to the spring 3
over. switch.

NOTE 3. Attach one lead of a continuity tester to the

spring switch and the other lead to ground. If
Disconnect the spark plug lead and ground it there is continuity, the fiber washers could be
against the engine block. damaged and should be replaced.

7. Use a jumper wire between the following 3-3.4 Testing the Solenoid on Electric Start Riders
points: and Tractors.

a. The positive terminal on the battery to the NOTE

terminal on the solenoid (coil primary). If
the engine cranks, then test within this cir- Through examination of returned warranty
cuit to find the exact area of the problem. parts, we have found instances of solenoids
See steps b and c below. being replaced unnecessarily on electric start
riders.
b. The positive terminal of the battery and the
S terminal on the ignition switch. If the 1. The following are real solenoid problems and
engine cranks, the problem is between the require replacement of the solenoid:
battery and the ignition switch.
a. Solenoid is stuck—Unit will start with igni-
c. The S terminal on the ignition switch to the tion key in OFF position.
coil primary terminal on the solenoid. If the
engine cranks, the problem is between the b. Coil wire (inside solenoid) is bad—Sole-
ignition switch and the solenoid. noid will not function.

d. Jump between the two large terminals on c. Bad washer (inside solenoid)—Solenoid
the solenoid. clicks but starter motor does not turn.

NOTE 2. Other problems which can appear to be a

defective solenoid:
Only use a wire as heavy as the wire from the
solenoid to the starter with an alligator clip. If a. Faulty ground.
you have current up to the coil primary terminal
of the solenoid and the starter will not crank, b. Defective safety switch.
however, you can crank the starter using the
jumper wire, the problem is with the solenoid. c. Discharged battery.
Check the base of the solenoid to see that it
has a good ground to the frame of the unit. If it d. Defective starter motor.
still fails to operate, replace it.
e. Blown circuit breaker.
3-3.3 Testing the Safety Reverse Switch on the Elec-
tric Start Systems. If the engine can be started, f. Defective ignition switch.
but stalls when the blade is engaged, use the
following procedure to determine if the problem g. Defective wire harness.
is in the reverse safety switch:
1. Coil Check:

3-5
 a. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the a. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the
spark plug. spark plug.
b. Disconnect the wire AT THE STARTER
b. Disconnect the coil wire from the solenoid. which runs to the solenoid.

c. Using a DVOM (in the OHMS setting) c. Using a DVOM (in the OHMS setting),
attach the red lead to the coil connection attached the red lead to a contact bolt and
and the black lead to system ground. the black lead to the other contact bolt.
The meter should read “OPEN” circuit, or
d. The resistance reading should be about 5 infinity.
ohms.
*A “closed” circuit indicates solenoid failure.
*Meter readings greater than 10 ohms or less
than 3 ohms indicates solenoid failure. d. Energize the solenoid using the start
switch. WARNING: DO NOT HOLD “ON”
e. Remove meter leads and reconnect coil FOR MORE THAN 5 SECONDS AT A
wire. TIME.

2. Contact Check: e. The meter should read “CLOSED” circuit,

or less than 10 ohms. Continued on page
3-15.

3-6
 3

3-7
3-8
 3

3-9
3-10
 3

3-11
3-12
 3

3-13
3-14
 *An “OPEN” circuit indicates solenoid failure. 3. Remove the shift panel to gain access to the
solenoid and fuse.
f. Remove meter leads and reconnect the starter
wire. a. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or blown
fuse. Circuit breakers seldom open or
3.5 TROUBLESHOOTING SAFETY INTERLOCK fuses blow without a reason. The problem
SYSTEMS. must be corrected. See Figure 3-20.

Problem: The engine will not crank.

3
1. Check the battery cables to be certain that they
are connected properly. The black cable
should be connected to the negative terminal
on the battery. The red cable should be con-
nected to the positive terminal on the battery.
Connections must be tightened securely. See
Figure 3-18.

Figure 3-20.

b. If your unit has a fuse, pull the fuse to

determine if it has blown. If it has, you will
have to find the fault.

c. To test a circuit breaker, connect a volt

meter or a 12 volt test light between the
negative battery terminal and each side of
the circuit breaker terminals. If voltage is
present at both terminals the breaker is
Figure 3-18. good. If not, replace the breaker.

2. Check the battery with a voltage tester. The d. Check for a short in the wiring. A dead
battery should read approximately 12 volts. short may be in the cranking or charging
Turn the key switch to the start position. If the circuit where the insulation may have
voltage drops more than 2 volts, refer to the rubbed through and exposed a bare wire.
battery video for testing procedures. See Fig- Replace the wire or repair with electrical
ure 3-19. tape if the wire strands have not been
damaged.

e. Look for a wire pinched between body

panels, burned by the exhaust pipe or muf-
fler or rubbed against a moving part.

4. If your unit has a dual circuit alternator and the

fuse is blowing or the breaker is tripping, check
for proper wiring. If you have a regulated sys-
tem disregard this section.

Disconnect the red and white lead connector

which goes to the alternator. If the unit cranks,
the wires are reversed and a dead short
resulted. Reverse the wires to correct the prob-
Figure 3-19.
lem. See Figure 3-21.

3-15
 Figure 3-21.
Figure 3-23.
NOTE
7. Touch probe to terminal on solenoid that goes
The connector is notched to fit together one to starter. Turn ignition key to the start position.
way only. The red wires should align with each If no voltage is present, replace the solenoid.
other. See Figure 3-24.
For more information on charging systems,
see the video “Batteries and Charging Sys-
tems.”

5. Check to be certain the small orange wire is

connected to the small terminal on the sole-
noid. On some units, this wire may be red
instead of orange.

Using a test light or meter, check for voltage at

this wire with the key in the start position. If
voltage is present, the key switch and safety
circuits are O.K. but the solenoid must be
checked further or replaced. See Figure 3-22.
Figure 3-24.

Check to be certain the unit is grounded prop-

erly.

The black, or negative, cable coming from the

battery must be properly secured to the frame
or engine, depending on the model tractor.

8. To check for proper electrical ground, connect

one side of your meter or test light to the posi-
tive terminal of the battery. See Figure 3-25.

Figure 3-22.
6. Clamp the test light to the base of the solenoid.
Touch other probe to the positive terminal of
the solenoid. It should show voltage. See Fig-
ure 3-23.

3-16
 3

Figure 3-27.
Figure 3-25.
Touch the other lead to the mounting bracket of 10. To test for ground, connect one test lead to the
the solenoid. If voltage is present, the solenoid positive terminal of the battery and the other
is properly grounded. See Figure 3-26. lead to the engine block. If voltage is present
the engine is grounded properly. If not, check
that the ground wires are clean and properly
connected. See Figure 3-28.

Figure 3-26.
If your unit has a small green wire to the base
of the solenoid, make certain that it is securely
connected. Figure 3-28.
11. Check for voltage at the starter motor by con-
9. The engine may have a ground wire located at necting one lead of your tester to the engine
the base of the engine, attached to the frame. ground. Touch the other lead to the starter
It must be firmly attached to both the engine motor terminal. Turn the key to the start posi-
and the tractor frame. See Figure 3-27. tion. If voltage is present and the engine does
not crank, all circuits are working properly and
the problem is in the engine. Contact your
authorized engine service dealer. See Figure
3-29.

3-17
 14. For clarity we have removed the ignition
switch.

Figure 3-29.
12. If voltage was not present at the orange wire
on the solenoid while cranking the engine, you Figure 3-30.
will need to check the ignition switch and 15. Using a test light or meter, connect one lead to
safety interlock switches to see if they are ground. Connect the other lead to the black
being activated properly. There are three terminal on the ignition switch. Voltage should
switches which must be activated in order to always be present. See Figure 3-31.
crank the unit: the ignition switch, the clutch/
brake pedal switch, and the deck lift lever
switch or PTO switch if your unit has an electric
PTO.

Make certain the switch activators are

depressing the plungers on the switches. Also,
check for proper wire connection at the switch
terminals.

NOTE

There is a seat safety switch and a reverse

safety switch on this unit; however, they are
not involved in the cranking circuit.
Figure 3-31.
13. Check the ignition switch to be certain the wire 16. Move the tester from the black lead to the
harness connector is completely secured to orange lead. Turn the ignition key to the start
the ignition switch terminals. Wires on the har- position. If voltage is present, the ignition
ness plug at the ignition switch should be switch is good. If no voltage is present, replace
installed as illustrated. See Figure 3-30. the ignition switch. See Figure 3-32.

If the unit still fails to start you will need to test

the ignition switch further.

3-18
 3

Figure 3-34.
Figure 3-32.
If the unit still fails to crank, continue testing. 19. If the unit does not crank, make sure the
clutch/brake pedal switch is fully depressed.
17. For units without an electric PTO, raise the Remove the switch and jump a wire between
deck lift lever fully and make sure the plunger the two orange terminals. See Figure 3-35.
on the safety switch is fully depressed. Attempt
to start the unit. If it does not crank, remove the
PTO switch. Using a jumper wire, connect
between the two orange terminals. If the unit
now cranks, replace the deck lift lever safety
switch. See Figure 3-33.

Figure 3-35.
20. If the unit cranks, replace the clutch brake
pedal safety switch.

Problem: The engine cranks but will not start.

Figure 3-33. 1. Check the fuel tank for gas.
18. If you have an electric PTO, remove the con-
nector from the PTO switch. Jump between the 2. Check to be certain the spark plug wire is
two orange terminals. If the unit now cranks, firmly connected to the spark plug terminal.
replace the PTO switch. See Figure 3-34.
3. Check the throttle and/or choke for proper
starting position.

4. Disconnect the yellow ground wire on the

engine. If the engine starts, the problem is with
the safety switches or wiring harness.

3-19
5. If the engine fails to start, and you do not have
an afterfire solenoid, the problem is in the
engine and must be repaired by an authorized
engine service dealer.

6. If you do have an engine with an afterfire sole-

noid attach your tester to the red wire and
ground. Voltage should be present in the start
and run positions. If voltage is not present,
replace the ignition switch. See Figure 3-36.

Figure 3-38.
9. Check the ignition switch by removing the yel-
low wire from the switch harness and try to
start the unit. If the unit starts, replace the igni-
tion switch. Reinstall the yellow wire to the con-
nector to stop the engine. See Figure 3-39.

Figure 3-36.
7. Disconnect the wires or harness connector
from the clutch/brake safety switch. See Figure
3-37.

Figure 3-39.
Problem: The engine stalls when engaging
clutch/brake pedal.

Check both the reverse safety switch and seat

safety switch for grounding out conditions.

Figure 3-37. NOTE

With another wire, jump across the two red or Wires must not come into contact with the unit
orange wires in the harness connector and when checking these connections.
start the unit. If unit starts, the switch is defec-
tive and must be replaced. See Figure 3-37. 1. Disconnect the yellow wire on the reverse
safety switch. With the engine running, place
8. Disconnect the yellow wires on the deck lift the shift lever in neutral and release the clutch/
lever safety switch or PTO safety switch if your brake pedal. See Figure 3-40.
unit has an electric PTO. Jump across the red
or orange wires. If engine starts, the switch is
defective and must be replaced. See Figure 3-
38.

3-20
 If there is voltage, adjust the PTO clutch or
replace it as needed.

2. If there is no voltage, check for voltage at the

red wire at the PTO switch. If no voltage, check
for voltage at the ignition switch. See Figure 3-
42.

Figure 3-40.
If the engine continues to run, the screws on
the reverse safety switch are grounding out
against the reverse safety switch bracket.

Correct by removing the screws that hold the

reverse safety switch to the bracket. Inspect
the insulator plate for cracks or distortion, Figure 3-42.
which can occur if the screws are improperly 3. If there is voltage at the red wire at the PTO,
installed. Replace if defective. switch the PTO to the start position and check
for voltage at the blue and brown wire. If there
2. If the engine stalls when testing the reverse is no voltage at either, replace the PTO switch.
safety switch, check the seat safety switch by See Figure 3-43.
disconnecting both yellow wires on the switch.
See Figure 3-41.

With the engine running and the shift lever in

neutral, release the clutch/brake pedal. If the
engine continues to run, the problem is with
the insulator plate on the seat safety switch.
Inspect in the same manner as the reverse
safety switch. Replace if defective.

Figure 3-43.
Problem: The engine stalls when engaging
blade or the blades do not engage when going
into the run position on units with PTO’s.

Check both the reverse safety switch and seat

safety switch for grounding out conditions.

NOTE
Figure 3-41.
Problem: Your unit has an electric PTO and Wires must not come into contact with the unit
the blades do not engage when activating the when checking these connections
PTO switch.
1. Disconnect the yellow wire on the reverse
1. Check for voltage at the PTO connector with safety switch. With the engine running, engage
the PTO switch in the on position. the cutting deck. See Figure 3-44.

3-21
 1. Check the wiring at the PTO switch. See Fig-
ure 3-46.

Figure 3-44.
If the blades engage without stalling the
engine, the screws on the reverse safety
Figure 3-46.
switch are grounding out against the support
bracket or panel. If correct, check voltage at PTO when blade
stops turning. If voltage is present and blades
Correct by removing the screws that hold the are not turning, check the clutch air gap and
reverse safety switch to the bracket or panel. adjust, retest, and replace the clutch if the test
Inspect the insulator plate for cracks or distor- fails. See Figure 3-47.
tion, which can occur if the screws are improp-
erly installed. Replace if defective.

If the engine stalls, reconnect yellow wires and

proceed to the next step.

2. Check the seat safety switch by disconnecting

both yellow wires or the harness from the
switch. See Figure 3-45.

Figure 3-47.
2. If voltage is not present, disconnect the wires
from the seat safety switch and the reverse
safety switch.

Operate the PTO. If it remains running, check

the safety switches for shorts or broken insula-
tor plates.

3. If the PTO doesn’t operate, test the relays as

Figure 3-45.
follows:
With the engine running, engage the cutting
deck. If the engine continues to run with the
NOTE
blades engaged, the problem is with the insu-
lator plate on the seat safety switch. Inspect in
Relay one has yellow, white, and brown wires.
the same manner as the reverse safety switch.
Relay two has red, white, and blue wires.
Replace if defective.
a. Test for voltage on relay one at the white
Problem: PTO starts but disengages when the
wire with the PTO switch in the start posi-
switch is moved to the run position.

3-22
 tion. If there is no voltage, replace relay EVALUATING ELECTRIC CLUTCHES
one. See Figure 3-48.
This section will cover how to evaluate electric
clutches. You will need a multi meter to per-
form these tests.

1. To measure the clutch coil resistance, turn off

the engine and the PTO switch.

a. Disconnect the clutch wire connection. 3

b. Set the meter to check ohms.

c. Connect the meter lead wires to the wires

in the clutch connector.

Figure 3-48.
b. If voltage is present in relay one, check for
voltage on the red wire of relay two. See
Figure 3-49.

Figure 3-51.
(1) If the meter reads below 2.40 ohms or
above 3.40 ohms, the clutch has failed
and needs to be replaced.

Figure 3-49. (2) If the meter reads between 2.40 and

3.40 ohms, proceed to measuring
c. If voltage is present, replace relay two.
clutch current draw. See Figure 3-51.
4. If no voltabe is present at relay two, check for
2. Set the meter to check amps using the 10 amp
voltage at the red wire on the ignition switch. If
scale.
there is no voltage, replace the ignition switch.
See Figure 3-50.
a. Connect one meter lead wire to one wire in
the clutch connector and the other lead
wire to the corresponding wire in the mat-
ing connector.

b. Connect a short wire to the second wire in

both connectors.

Figure 3-50.
3-23
 Figure 3-54.
Figure 3-52.
5. The electric clutch initially needs to be bur-
c. Turn the PTO switch on.
nished before it is used by the owner.
3. If the meter reads below 3.5 amps, the prob-
It is not done at the factory and is the responsi-
lem would be in the electrical system leading to
bility of the dealer or the customer.
the clutch such as the battery, a relay, or a
switch.
a. To properly burnish the clutch, run the
engine at 50 percent throttle.
4. If the meter reads 3.5 amps or above, proceed
to checking the air gap. See Figure 3-52.
b. Engage and disengage the clutch 5 times,
ten seconds on and ten seconds off.
a. Turn off the PTO.
c. Increase to 75 percent throttle.
b. Locate the three windows or notches
where the air gap is checked.
d. Engage and disengage the clutch 5 more
times, ten seconds on and ten seconds off.
c. Check the gap at three locations using a
feeler gauge.
6. If you have a unit with an electric clutch that
operates sporadically, check all wiring around
d. The factory air gap setting is .010 to .025
the steering column going to the dash for fray-
inch. See Figure 3-53.
ing and shorts.

a. Check the relays for proper connections.

Newer models have in line relays to mini-
mize vibration and reduce failure.

b. You can remove the relays from the chas-

sis of older models and tape them directly
to the wiring harness.

c. Check the PTO switch for proper connec-

tions. The red and blue wires might be
reversed. The blue wire should be on top
with the red wire directly below it. The
brown wire should be on the opposite side.
Figure 3-53.
e. If the gap is incorrect, use a .017 feeler
gauge and adjust the gap by tightening or
loosening the three nuts on the clutch. See
Figure 3-54.

3-24
 3

3-25
Figure 3-56.

3-26
 3

Figure 3-57.

3-27
Figure 3-58.

3-28
 3

Figure 3-59.

3-29
Figure 3-60.

3-30
 3

Figure 3-61.

3-31
Figure 3-62.

3-32
 3

Figure 3-63.

3-33
Figure 3-64.

3-34
 3

Figure 3-65.

3-35
Figure 3-66.

3-36
 3

Figure 3-67.

3-37
Figure 3-68.

3-38
 3

Figure 3-69.

3-39
Figure 3-70.

3-40
 3

Figure 3-71.

3-41
Figure 3-72.

3-42
3-4. PROCESS OF ELIMINATION. 3-7. GROUNDING.

3-4.1. The process of elimination is a rapid means of 3-7.1 Grounding is the practice of using a metal
establishing the cause of circuit or component chassis, engine block or body as a means of
failure. The main requisite is to plan a providing a return path for electric current back
sequence of tests and follow it. Haphazard cir- to its source. This practice is economical and
cuit testing, with no plan in mind, can be the serves to simplify the wiring requirements. The
ultimate of frustration. The general plan in pro- importance of good grounding practice cannot
cess of elimination is to being where the trou- be over emphasized. Virtually all of the direct
ble presents itself and then in a step by step current circuits in a vehicle are grounded as a 3
manner, locate the cause of trouble. Electrical means of return path to the power source. A
current will not leave its source (battery, gener- faulty ground connection that may be a com-
ator, etc.) unless it has a return path back to mon ground point for two different electrical cir-
the source. This is one of the most important cuits can cause some interesting service
things to remember in troubleshooting. One of problems. A tail lamp circuit with a faulty
the major sources of circuit failure is unwanted ground may allow the tail lamp to operate in a
resistance. This is resistance to the flow of satisfactory manner. However, if the brake light
electrons caused by loose connections, cor- circuit shares the same ground connection and
roded connections and wire and faulty compo- the brakes are applied, the resistance of the
nents. A lack of circuit resistance is also a faulty ground will not allow the added current
major source of trouble. This is commonly from the brake light to pass and both tail and
known as a short and is caused by faulty com- brake light may go out. Almost everyone who
ponents or wiring returning the flow of elec- has ever towed a trailer with lights has been
trons back to the power source without going subject to the interesting problems posed by a
through the designed circuit resistance. The faulty ground connection to the trailer. The
result of this reduction in circuit resistance is popular use of plastic on dash components
an increased flow of electrons causing heat, requires that a ground wire be connected from
usually causing the destruction of wire, blowing electrical devices on the dash to a ground
of fuses, discharge of batteries or generator point. If this connection becomes faulty, all
burnout. dash connected circuits will fail to operate in
the prescribed manner. For example: turn on
3-5 . RESISTANCE. the lights and the gas gauge will cease opera-
tion; turn on the directional lights and the radio
3-5.1 Resistance is any restriction to the flow of elec- will go on and off.
trons in an electrical circuit. All electrical cir-
cuits contain resistance. All electrical circuits 3-8 USE OF TEST INSTRUMENTS IN CIRCUIT
function with a designed resistance. Increasing REPAIR.
or decreasing the resistance from the designed
resistance will render the electrical circuit inop- 3-8.1 The repair of electrical circuits can be simpli-
erative. A loss of resistance will cause the cir- fied by keeping in mind the behavior of electri-
cuit to overheat due to an increase of current cal circuits as previously discussed, the
flow. An increase of resistance will decrease operation of test instruments and a few simple
the current flow and the circuit will cease to facts. Unless a return path is provided, electri-
function. cal current will never leave the source. The
resistance to or failure of current to flow will be
3-6. MAGNETO IGNITION. caused by:

3-6.1 The magneto ignition also consists of a pri- 1. Low power or no power at electrical source
mary and secondary coil, ignition points and (dead battery, faulty generator or magneto,
condenser. The magneto ignition is primarily etc.).
used on small engines, both two and four
cycle. It usually operated off flywheel magnets 2. High circuit resistance caused by bad connec-
and in its simplest form can be a very econom- tions or faulty components. A burned out lamp
ical ignition system. will provide high resistance and no current will
flow.

3-43
 *Information courtesy of Briggs and Stratton
Corporation.

3-9. EVALUATING ELECTRIC CLUTCHES.

3-9.1 Measure clutch coil resistance as follows:

1. Turn engine and PTO switch off.

2. Disconnect clutch wire connection.

3. Select meter to check ohms.

4. Connect meter lead wires to the wires in the

clutch connector. See Figure 3-73.

5. Connect a short wire to the second wire in both

connectors.

6. Turn PTO switch on.

7. If meter reads below 3.5 amps, the problem

would be in the electrical system leading to the
clutch (battery, relay, switch, etc.). If meter
reads 3.5 amps or above, proceed to para-
graph 3-9.3.

3-9.3 Check air gap setting as follows:

1. Turn engine and PTO switch off.

2. Locate the three windows or notches where

5. If meter reads below 2.40 ohms or above 3.40 the air gap is checked. See Figure 3-75.
ohms then the clutch has failed and needs to
be replaced.

6. If meter reads between 2.40 and 3.40 ohms

proceed to paragraph 3-9.2.

3-9.2 Measure clutch current draw as follows:

1. Turn engine off.

2. Disconnect clutch wire connection.

3. Select meter to check amps (10 amp scale).

4. Connect one meter lead wire to one wire in

clutch connector and the other meter lead wire 3. With feeler gauge check gap at all three loca-
to the corresponding wire in the mating con- tions (minimum of two).
nector. See Figure 3-74.
4. Factory air gap setting is .010 to .025 inch.

5. If gap does not fall between .010 and .025 inch

then reset using a .017 inch feeler gauge.

3-44
 6. Changing the air gap is achieved by tightening 3. Increase to 75 percent throttle.
and/or loosening the three nuts.
4. Engage and disengage the clutch 5 times (10
NOTE seconds on/10 seconds off).

The electric clutch, part number 717-0983, is 5. If you have a unit with an electric clutch that
used on the 600 and 700 units. The electric operates sporadically:
clutch, part number 717-0949, is used on the
800 series. a. Check all wiring around the steering col-
3
umn going to the dash. 1991 production
3-10. BURNISHING PROCEDURE FOR ELECTRIC models have a one piece steering shaft to
CLUTCH/BRAKE. minimize fraying of wires going to the
dash.
NOTE
b. Check the relays for proper connections.
Burnishing is not done at the factory. It is the Newer models have in line relays used to
responsibility of the customer. It is to be per- minimize failure due to vibration. If the
formed after the tractor is completely assem- relays are mounted to the chassis you can
bled. remove them and tape them directly to the
wiring harness.
3-10.1 Burnish clutch/brake as follows:
c. Check the PTO switch for proper connec-
1. Run engine at 50 percent throttle. tions. The red and blue wires might be
reversed. The red wire should be on top
2. Engage and disengage the clutch 5 times (10 and the blue wire directly below it. The
seconds on/10 seconds off). brown wire would be on the opposite side.

3-45
3-46
 BELTS AND DRIVE SYSTEM
4-1. GENERAL. 2. About 95% of the V-belts used on MTD Prod-
ucts, Inc. units have a Kevlar cord. Kevlar cord
4-1.1 V-belts are the most widely used means of was developed by DuPont and it is the stron-
power transmission. They are reliable, efficient gest man-made fiber. Pound for pound it is
and economical. This is especially so when stronger than steel. Two other uses of Kevlar
they are compared with other methods of are the belts in the nonsteel radial tires and bul-
power transmission. Because they are so com- let-proof vests.
monly used, they are often taken for granted.
They are neglected and abused. Correct instal- WARNING
lation and maintenance are vitally important to
their operating efficiency and life span. Standard V-belts will not have Kevlar cords.
They probably will have a rayon or polyester 4
1. The two major suppliers of V-belts are Gates cord. Rayon will not hold up as long as the
and Dayco. Sometimes a service part will have Kevlar and the polyester could be dangerous
the supplier’s cardboard wrapper around it. because it SHRINKS when it gets hot. This
Even with the wrapper, it means the V-belt could cause a clutch to engage when the con-
meets our specifications which can vary from a trol is in the disengaged position.
standard V-belt. See Table 4-1.
4-1.4 Too often when a drive system fails we want to
NOTE not working on the mower that comes into your
shop, you must look to what has changed.
Use original equipment belts for permanent
installation. Anything else will only be tempo- 1. The belt may come off due to the pulley being
rary. damaged by driving over an obstruction, curb,
root, tree stump, etc. Transmission and idler
2. MTD Products, Inc. recommends the use of pulleys in particular can cause belts to come
Original Equipment Manufacturer (O.E.M.) V- off. Also, misaligned idlers may be the cause of
belts only. They are of special construction belts coming off. The same thing can happen
involving the type of cord, cord location and when belts are assembled on the wrong side of
length. V-belts other than O.E.M. generally will a deck hanger or belt keeper, especially when
only provide temporary service. For best shoulder bolts are used next to a pulley. It is
results use only factory approved parts. easy to assemble the belt incorrectly on the
outside of a belt keeper.
4-1.2 What is the difference in looks between a rayon
cord, fractional horsepower V-belt and a Kevlar 2. As you approach the repair the fact must be
cord, oil and heat resistant V-belt designed to accepted that just putting on a new manufac-
run up to 18 HP? To the untrained eye . . . turers original belt may not always solve the
NOTHING. The color of the rubber is just a dye problem. There may be other components that
to make the V-belt look different. Whether the V- are causing the malfunction other than the
belt has a cover or is bareback depends on the belt(s).
application not quality of the V-belt.
4-1.5 As you proceed with repair, asking yourself
4-1.3 V-belt failures are normally not caused by a bad questions may help. For example:
V-belt. The failed V-belt is usually the result of
another part failing. 1. Normal wear. How many hours are on the
mower? When was it manufactured? While the
1. Prior to about 1974 V-belt problems were preva- belt was wearing out, how many other compo-
lent, especially on the cutting decks of the riding nents that the belt travels on were also wearing
mowers. Several changes took place at that out? Poor operating habits. Jack rabbit starts
time with the design of the V-belt and the layout and stops. Shifting into forward while unit is still
of the drive train. rolling in reverse (every pulley, idler and

4-1
4-2
 gear must suddenly change direction). Incor- manufacturer to manufacturer. Yet, the cause
rectly positioned belt guards: A guard too loose of the belt problems remains basic to all. The
or too far away from a belt can be as bad as following is a list of causes which may help
one that is adjusted too close. A guard must spot potential trouble.
first be formed at the proper angle and
adjusted to be as close as possible to hold a 1. Normal wear. If a belt loses its effectiveness
belt from coming out of a pulley but yet far after a prolonged period of use, its failure can
enough, approximately 1/8 inch (as a rule), to generally be accepted as normal wear.
allow the belt to trap-out. When the tension is Replacement of the belt with the correct type
removed from the drive system, it must and size is all that is required.
assume a relaxed position; too tight can make
the belt continue to drive for a time even 2. Poor operating habits. Although V-belt failures
though the drive system has been disengaged. can often be attributed to normal wear, many
failures are in no way the fault of the belt. 4
2. Are there indications that the belt was routed Under these circu stances, replacement of the
incorrectly? When does the belt come off the belt will simply result in another rapid belt fail-
pulley? Does it happen only in reverse? The ure. Failure will continue until the real cause is
transmission mounts may not be tight or a diagnosed and corrected. One such case is
torque bolt mounted in the front of the trans- incorrect operation. When an idler pulley is
mission may be loose. If the bolt has dropped used in the system and excessive and rough
out, the transmission is free to pivot back and clutching occurs, severe reduction of the ser-
forth. Therefore, when put into reverse, the vice life of the belt will be experienced. Failure
front of the transmission pivots downward and will continue until the incorrect method of oper-
the belt rolls off because the belt angle ation is changed.
changed beyond the recommended specifica-
tions. 3. Damaged or worn idlers. Frozen idler bearings
will cause much the same results as excessive
4-2. PROPER STORAGE OF V-BELTS. or rough clutching. When a frozen idler bearing
is encountered, it is not only necessary to
4-2.1 V-belts should be in a cool, dark place away replace the idler but also the belt. Heat dam-
from radiators and out of direct sunlight. Heat age will severely reduce the service life of a
will dry out the belts and cause them to belt. Where an idler is involved, heat damage
become hard and brittle. will cause polyester belts to shrink consider-
ably.
1. Belts may be stored either by coiling them on
shelves or in cartons—or by uncoiling and 4. Incorrectly positioned belt guards. Belts frayed
hanging them if shelf space is not available. If or worn on the outside indicate incorrectly
belts are hung, we recommend using wide mounted belt guards, belt guides or belt clips.
support or multiple hooks so that the belts are Damaged guards should be replaced. Incor-
not damaged by tight bending or excessive rectly positioned guards should be realigned.
weight at a single point. Guards should be mounted close to the tight-
ened belt but they must never touch the tight-
2. Under normal conditions (temperatures below ened belt.
85°F, relative humidity below 70% and no
direct sunlight) V-belts can be stored as long 5. Damaged or worn pulleys. Belts frayed or worn
as six years without damage. Beyond that on the inside indicate defective or damaged
point, still under normal conditions, a decrease pulleys. Belts are designed to grip the smooth
in service life of approximately 10% per year of flat inner sides of a pulley. Pulleys can be the
storage can be expected. Storage limit should cause of belt failure for the following reasons:
be reduced one-half for each 15 degree
increase in temperature (three years at 100°, a. The pulley is too wide for the belt and
for example). allows it to bottom. Except on deep groove
pulleys, belts should generally ride even
4-3. CAUSES OF V-BELT PROBLEMS. with or above the outside edges of the pul-
ley.
4-3.1 V-belts are used on an untold number of dif-
ferent power units. Application varies from

4-3
 b. The inner surface of the pulley is wrinkled, Oil and grease also cause belts to deteriorate.
worn, rusted, dirty or nicked. Wrinkled and Clean belts with a volatile solution. Oil soaked
worn pulleys should be replaced. Rusted, belts should be replaced immediately. Oil leak-
dirty or nicked pulleys should be polished age should be eliminated promptly. If oil is a
or replaced. continuing problem, consider oil resistant belts.

6. Misaligned pulleys. Belts which break or tend 9. Heat damage. When belts operate at tempera-
to jump from the pulleys indicate incorrect tures of 140°F or higher, heat aging takes
alignment. Although incorrectly adjusted belt place. This condition can be created by belt
guards can contribute to the problem, align- slippage or by routing belts too close to heat
ment of the pulleys should be checked. Except producing assemblies such as mufflers. Poly-
where an off-set system is used (on some ester belts operating with an idler and subject
blade drives) all pulleys and idlers should be to a heat problem will shrink severely on cool-
on the same level or plane. Offset systems are ing. Where the problem cannot be remedied,
designed with special pulleys to compensate heat resistant belts should be considered and
for a certain amount of misalignment. Where polyester belts should be avoided.
set screws are used for fastening, they must
be tightened securely. A nut and bolt sealant 10. Incorrect installation. Belts must be installed
applied to the set screws will assure lasting with care. Never use force when installing a
tightness. belt. Sometimes it becomes necessary to
remove a pulley or belt guard to eliminate the
7. Incorrect tension. A squealing noise during use of force but the extra time necessary is
acceleration, loss or lack of power, belt cover well spent. The tension on newly installed belts
wear, burn spots and overheating all indicate should be rechecked after 48 hours use. A cer-
insufficient belt tension. Insufficient belt ten- tain amount of slack can develop during this
sions result in belt slippage. Normally, belt slip- break-in period.
page results when a belt stretches excessively
due to long hard use. Where this is the case, 4-4. V-BELT PROBLEMS WITH ROTARY
only replacement of the belt is required. Often, TILLERS, SELF-PROPELLED MOWERS
however, the cause is other than normal wear. AND RIDING MOWERS.
Insufficient spring tension on the idler bracket
is a common problem. The spring may have 4-4.1 One of the most common problems encoun-
weakened or it may be an incorrect spring. tered with rotary tillers, self-propelled mowers
Replacement should be made with a spring and riding mowers involves damaged or bro-
which provides adequate tension. Springs ken V-belts. Regardless of the type unit
should also be lubricated with light oil to pre- involved, the causes of the problem usually
vent rust and to provide free spring movement. remain the same.
Idler brackets which do not pivot freely can
also be a problem. They may be just fastened 1. If a belt fails after an extended period of use,
too tight or they may lack lubrication at the failure is probably due to normal wear.
pivot point. Incorrect shoulder screws can also Replacement of the belt is all that is necessary.
be a cause for idler brackets to be excessively See Figure 4-1.
tightened. Failure to recheck adjustment after
installation of a new belt can also result in slip-
page. Some time after the initial adjustment of
a new belt, a follow up adjustment may be nec-
essary. The reason for this is that some slack
may develop during the 48 hour break-in
period. Excess tension is only found in sys-
tems which do not use idler pulleys or in sys-
tems where too strong an idler pulley spring is
used. Broken belt cords, excessive stretch and
rapid belt failure can indicate excessive belt 2. If a belt becomes inoperative after an insuffi-
tension. cient period of service, failure usually is the
result of incorrect operation. Excessive engag-
8. Oil and grease damage. Belt damage from oil ing and disengaging of the clutch, especially
and grease will be detected as belt slippage. where an idler pulley is used, will definitely

4-4
 reduce the service life of the belt. Replace belt be realigned and set screws fastened securely.
and correct operational methods. Damaged A nut and bolt sealant applied to the set screw
idlers or frozen idler bearings will cause rapid will assure lasting tightness.
belt wear. Replace idler or its bearing.
6. Other belt problems are encountered because
3. If belt frays or wears on the outside, incorrectly of excessive shrinkage, excessive stretch or oil
mounted belt guards and belt clips usually are and heat damage such as shock load and flex
at fault. Replace belt and reposition belt failure. See Figures 4-4 and 4-5.
guards and belt clips. These should be posi-
tioned close to the belt. But when the clutch is
engaged and the belt is tightened, belt guards
and belt clips must not touch the belt. See Fig-
ure 4-2.
4

4. If belt frays or wears on the inside, defective

pulleys are at fault. The V-belt should ride on
the smooth inner sides of the pulley. Pulleys
which are spread apart allow the belt to ride on
the bottom and rapid belt wear is the result. If
the belt rides below the outside edges of a pul-
ley, chances are good that the pulley is spread.
Replace pulley. Rough spots or nicks on the
inside surface of pulley will result in premature 7. All belt replacements should be made with
belt wear. Polish inside of pulley or replace pul- belts of the same size and type as those fur-
ley. See Figure 4-3. nished with the original equipment.

4-5. PULLEY ALIGNMENT.

4-5.1 Check alignment as follows:

1. Make sure that the drive shafts are parallel by

using a measuring tape to measure the dis-
tance between the shafts both at the outside
pulley and the inside of the pulley. Shafts that
are parallel will be the same distance apart at
both points.

2. Tie a string to the drive shaft and pull taut

5. If belt breaks prematurely or tends to jump across the pulleys. If the pulleys are properly
from pulleys, incorrectly aligned pulleys may lined up, the string will touch them at the points
be at fault. All pulleys including the idler should indicated by the arrows. By rotating each pul-
be on the same plane. (This does not apply to ley through one-half revolution, you can also
blade belts on level adjusted floating decks. determine whether pulley is wobbly or the drive
The misalignment in this case is compensated shaft is bent. If either of these conditions
for by a special engine pulley.) Pulleys should
4-5
 exists, the inner rim of the pulley will pull away Problems can be more difficult to find on a new
from the string when the pulley is rotated. See unit because alignment appears to be correct,
Figure 4-6. and the wear or age factors of course are not
present, but the remaining thoughts expressed
are still possibilities. A review of these basic
considerations will reveal the problem and
save much time.

4-6.2 Damaged or worn idlers.

1. Frozen idler bearings that cause a restriction

on the belts building up a heat factor. This can
cause a belt to shrink or weaken and stretch.
When the belt is hot it will tend to roll over.
NOTE
2. Wherever there is an idler, it is usually
Pulleys that are not properly aligned cause exces-
attached to a pivoting idler bracket. The pivot
sive belt and pulley wear. Where shafts are not
point of the bracket often reflects the problem
parallel, belts on one side are drawn tighter and
by being loose. On riding mowers, the pivot
pull more than their share of the load. As a result,
points have a bearing or nyliner bushing which
these belts wear out faster, causing the entire set
may be worn out or restricted by rust or corro-
to be replaced before it has given maximum ser-
sion.
vice. If misalignment is in pulley only, belts will
enter and leave grooves at an angle, causing
3. Pulley halves can separate because of a
excessive cover and pulley wear. See Figure 4-7.
defective weld. Pulleys do not run true if the
groove is not formed right or is damaged.

4-6.3 Idlers are used for various reasons:

1. To provide an adjustment for fixed central

drives.

3. To turn corners.

4. To break up long spans where belt whip may

be a problem.

5. Maintain tension when the idler is spring

loaded.

6. To increase arc-of-contact on a critical loaded

4-6. IDLERS. pulley.
4-6.1 Idler Problems. As necessary as idlers are, 7. To clutch certain types of drives (transmission
they tend to be a problem in a drive system. clutching, blade engagement, all types of
They should be checked frequently. These power take-off on various chore performing
problems are more or less expected on a equipment).
mower that has been used for a period of time
but what does one look for when a belt prob-
lem is experienced on a new rider or tractor?

4-6
4-7. GENERAL. drive system. The variable speed pulley, com-
bined with the two speed transmission, allows
4-7.1 The variable speed pulley can best be 14 ground speeds: 7 low range and 7 high
described as a torque converter. It is used on range. Each speed is obtained by the place-
some riding mowers, rotary tillers and tractors. ment of the shift lever and speed control lever.
The variable speed pulley allows you to vary See Figure 4-9.
the ground speed (or the tiller speed) while
maintaining a constant engine speed. We use NOTE
a smaller one on the riders and the larger one
on the tractor and rear tine tiller. Coupling the On 1989 and 1990 units only, the shim used
transaxle with the variable drive system you under the clutch brake pedal assembly is 5/8
have the ultimate drive train. With this total inch instead of 1/2 inch as marked for the
drive system you can set the speed selector for
a given speed, then slow down for a turn (cut-
speed control adjustment. 4
ting around trees or flower beds), by pushing in 4-7.3 Riding Mowers have a variable speed pulley
on the clutch/brake pedal. Release the pedal that is used with the single speed transmis-
and the tractor automatically resumes the set sion. This gives you a multispeed drive, and
speed. This type of drive system permits no- the transmission gives you reverse as well as
clutch-on-the-go speed control and enables changing the plane of the drive. Tractors use a
you to match your ground speed to your mow- variable speed pulley that is between the
ing conditions without slowing the RPM’s of the engine and the four speed transaxle. This
cutting blade. See Figure 4-8. gives you a speed variation in each gear. As
the variable speed pulley moves away from the
4-7.2 The drive principle for the new two speed engine pulley, the engine V-belt pulls towards
transmission is similar to the single speed the center of the variable speed pulley, pushing

4-7
the movable sheave up. This forces the trans- linkage can stop the variable speed pulley at
mission V-belt to the outside of the variable any point. See Figure 4-10
speed pulley. A mechanical lock of the control

4-8
 4-7.5 Maintenance of Variable Speed Pulleys.

1. Testing. The movable sheave must be able to

slide easily sideways but cannot be loose. If
the movable sheave is too loose it will cock
and will not slide when under load.

2. Repair. The needle bearings on the riding

mower variable speed pulley can be replaced.
These are the only parts available for repair.
The part number is 741-0404.

3. Lubrication. Lubricate the needle or ball bear-

ings once a year with a few drops of engine oil. 4
CAUTION

Excessive oiling will get on the V-belts and deterio-

rate them, or cause slippage.

4. Use a rag to clean dirt and rubber from the V-

4-7.4 Tillers use a variable speed pulley that is belt from the groove.
placed between the engine and the chain
cage. By moving the control lever you can vary 4-7.6 The shift lever generally has three positions:
the tine speed. See Figure 4-11. forward, neutral and reverse, except on the
new two speed transmission which has high,
low, neutral and reverse. The clutch/brake
pedal must be depressed and the lawn tractor
must not be moving when shifting gears. Do
not force the shift lever. Release the clutch/
brake pedal slightly to line up the shifting collar
in the transmission. Then try to shift gears.

4-7.7 The speed control lever allows you to regulate

the ground speed of the lawn tractor. To select
the ground speed, depress clutch pedal. Push
speed control lever outward and move back-
ward to slow lawn tractor; move forward to
increase speed. When desired speed has
been obtained, release lever in that position.
Whenever clutch is engaged, unit will automat-
ically go to the preset speed.

4-7.8 The clutch/brake pedal is located on the left

side of the lawn tractor. Depressing the clutch/
brake pedal part way disengages the clutch.
Pressing the pedal all the way down disen-
gages the clutch and engages the disc brake.
NOTE
4-7.9 Install spacer as follows:
Notice the difference between the horizontal
(Figure 4-10) and the vertical (Figure 4-11) vari- 1. Lower deck to lowest cutting position.
able speed drive pulleys.

4-9
 2. Remove spring from variable speed torque
bracket assembly.

3. Remove 4 inch bolt that secures the variable

speed bracket assembly.

4. Insert spacer between bracket and frame.

5. Reassemble bolt and spring.

NOTE

On 1992, the idler bracket has two holes that

secure the idler pulley. The inner hole is used
for the 600 Series rider; the outer hole is used
on the 300 and 400 Series riders.

NOTE

When operating the unit initially or after replac-

ing the belts, there will be little difference
between the highest two speeds until after the
belts have gone through a break-in period and
have seated themselves into the pulleys.

4-7.10 See Figure 4-12 and adjust the speed control

lever as follows:

1. Place the shift lever in Neutral position.

2. Start the engine.

3. Place the speed control lever in high speed

position.
10. Place the speed control lever in parking brake
position.
4. Release the clutch-brake pedal completely,
then slowly depress the pedal all the way (to
11. Thread the ferrule on the rod until the ferrule
disengage position). Hold the pedal in this
slips into the bottom end of the slot in the
position.
speed control lever, then thread the ferrule
down on the rod one full turn (to shorten). If the
5. Turn the engine off.
speed control lever is not slotted, thread the
ferrule on the rod until the stop on the brake
6. After engine stops completely, release the
rod is between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch away from
clutch-brake pedal.
the bracket.
7. Disconnect the speed control link from the vari-
12. Position speed control lever as follows:
able speed bracket by removing the cotter pin
and flat washer below the variable speed
a. 7 + 8-speed units: Place speed control
bracket.
lever in second position.
8. Depress the clutch-brake pedal forward until
b. 5-speed units: Place speed control lever in
the stop on the clutch-brake pedal assembly
first position.
hits solidly against the underside of the frame.
13. Place ferrule into speed control lever slot, and
9. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer from
secure with flat washer and hair pin clip.
the rod attached to the back of the speed con-
Release the clutch-brake pedal.
trol lever.

4-10
4-7.11 See Figure 4-12 and adjust the speed control NOTE
link as follows to obtain the correct neutral
adjustment: If a customer’s unit will not release out of for-
ward or reverse gear, first check the drive
1. Push the clutch-brake pedal backward by hand belts. The transmission pulley must come to a
as far as it will go using light pressure. Hold it complete stop while clutching. If it doesn’t, a
in this position as you make the following speed control adjustment may help. Also check
adjustment. the belt guards. They must be set at 1/8 inch
while the belts are engaged.
2. Thread the speed control link into or out of the
ferrule until it aligns for proper mounting to the NOTE
variable speed bracket.
Occasionally in 1987 3000 Series units, the
3. Secure the speed control link to the variable speed control lever will not stay in the select- 4
speed bracket with flat washer and cotter pin. ed gear. If this unit jumps out of gear or cannot
be fully engaged into gear, install a shift lever
4-7.12 Adjust shift lever to neutral (wheel drive) as fol- modification kit (part number 753-0466).
lows:
4-7.13 If unit stalls with speed control in high speed,
1. Place the transmission in neutral. (The unit will or if unit will not operate with speed control
move freely when pushed forward and back- lever in a low speed position, proceed as fol-
ward with the parking brake released.) lows:

2. Loosen the bolt which secures the shift lever 1. Place shift lever in NEUTRAL.
assembly to the shift lever adjusting link. See
Figure 4-13. 2. Restart engine.

3. Place speed control lever in high speed posi-

tion.

4. Release clutch/brake pedal fully.

5. Depress clutch/brake pedal.

6. Place speed control lever in desired position.

7. Place shift lever in either FORWARD or

REVERSE, and follow normal operating proce-
dures.

4-7.14 Belt Removal and Replacement.

WARNING

Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it

against the engine. Block the wheels of the
unit.

1. Remove the deck belt as follows:

a. Place the lift lever in the disengaged posi-

tion.
3. Place the shift lever in the neutral slot.
b. Remove the three hex bolts (belt keepers)
4. Tighten the bolt to 13 ft.-lbs. from the engine pulley belt guard. See Fig-
ure 4-14.

4-11
 NOTE

Make certain hex bolts are reassembled as

shown.

c. Unhook the deck belt from the engine pul-

ley.

d. Place the lift lever in the engaged (all the

way forward) position.

e. Disconnect the spring from the left rear

deck bracket. See Figure 4-15.

f. Disconnect the top of the four deck links by

removing the hairpin clips and flat wash-
ers.

g. Slide the threaded rod out of the tubing.

Slide the deck from beneath the lawn trac-
tor.

h. Remove the belt guards at each deck pul-

ley by removing the hex bolts, lock wash- i. Replace the belt following the above
ers and hex nuts. Remove belt. See Figure instructions in reverse order.
4-16.
2. Remove the rear drive belt as follows:

NOTE

When changing the rear drive belt, a spring

puller or other suitable tool is required to
remove an extension spring. A spring puller
(part number 732-0571) is available to assist in
removal of this spring.

a. Remove the cutting deck by following

steps a. through i. of instructions for
removing the deck belt.

4-12
b. Start the engine. Place shift lever in neu-
tral. Place cruise control lever in high
speed position and turn engine off. Engage
lift lever (move all the way forward). Do not
set parking brake.

c. Disconnect the large spring from the trans-

mission support bracket using a spring
puller or other suitable tool. An access hole
is provided in the rear of the frame for this
purpose. See Figure 4-17.

3. Remove the forward drive belt as follows:

NOTE
a. Follow steps a. through g. of instructions
for removing the rear drive belt paragraph
A spring puller (part number 732-0571) is
4-7.14 2.Follow steps a. through h. of
available to assist in removal of this spring.
instructions for removing the deck belt
paragraph 4-7.14 .
d. Disconnect the small spring from the bolt
on the right side of the fram and transmis-
b. Remove the engine pulley belt guard by
sion support bracket.
removing two self-tapping screws from
each side of the unit. Remove the engine
e. Remove the brake rod out of the variable
pulley belt guard by moving it back and to
speed pulley bracket.
the left.
f. Loosen (do not remove) the bolts (or hex
c. Remove the forward drive belt from the
nut) which secure the variable speed pul-
engine pulley and from the variable speed
ley bracket to allow clearance in order to
pulley.
remove the belts. A 7/16 inch (or 9/16 inch)
socket wrench with extension is required.
d. Reassemble new belt, following the above
instructions in reverse order.
g. Reassemble new belt, following the above
instructions in reverse order.
1. Remove the battery from the unit.
h. Remove the rear drive belt from around
2. To prevent gasoline from leaking from the
the top of the variable speed pulley.
engine, remove the fuel tank cap, place a
Remove belt from transmission pulley and
piece of thin plastic over the neck of the fuel
idler pulley. See Figure 4-18.
tank and screw on the cap.

4-13
 WARNING

Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it

against the engine.

3. Remove the deck as described in the separate

deck manual.

4. Unhook the idler spring from the rider frame.

See Figure 4-19.

5. Remove the hex bolt, nut and lock washer at

the torque rod bracket and transaxle.

6. Remove the hex bolt which holds the torque

rod bracket to the torque rod and remove
bracket. See Figure 4-20.

7. Slip the V-belt off the variable speed pulley and

transaxle pulley. See Figure 4-21.

8. Remove two hex bolts, nuts and lock washers

from the engine pulley belt guard at rider frame
to allow the engine pulley belt guard to drop
down out of the way. See Figure 4-22.

9. Remove the idler pulley by removing the hex

lock nut. See Figure 4-23.

4-14
 4

10. Remove and replace the V-belt. See Figure 4-

24.

11. Upon reassembly of idler pulley, be certain the

NOTE
hub side of idler goes against the idler bracket.
See Figure 4-25.
Be certain all belts are inside belt guards and
keepers. Also, be sure to reassemble the
12. When sliding the idler pulley on the idler
safety wire (yellow) at the deck chute.
bracket, be certain the belt is between the pul-
ley and guide pin. See Figure 4-26.
4-8. TRANSMATIC LAWN TRACTORS 600 AND
700 SERIES.
13. Reverse the above steps (paying close atten-
tion to steps 12 and 13) when reassembling
4-8.1 The principle of this drive system is basically
the new belts.
the same as discussed earlier in the operation
of the variable speed pulley. Refer to para-
graph 4-7. This paragraph contains specific
information applicable to the 600 and 700
transmatic lawn tractors only. The layout of the
drive system is somewhat different. On the
previously used system, constant tension was
maintained on the V-belt from the variable
speed pulley to the transaxle pulley through

4-15
the movement of the variable speed pulley between the variable speed pulley and tran-
in an arc like fashion. In the new system the saxle pulley to maintain this tension. See
variable speed pulley pivots back and forth. Figure 4-27.
A spring loaded idler pulley is positioned

4-16
 4

4-17
4-18
 1. There may be times when the customer will not c. Place the speed control lever in high
be able to obtain a full speed range. This may speed position.
be caused by the brackets occasionally hang-
ing up after substantial use. You will need to d. Release the clutch/brake pedal completely,
disassemble the variable speed bracket then slowly depress the pedal all the way
assembly and the variable speed torque (to park position). Hold the pedal in this
bracket assembly, take out the nyliner bush- position.
ings, clean shafts, grease and reinstall. Per-
form a variable speed control adjustment. e. Turn the engine off.

2. If a unit in the 600 Series sits crooked, raise f. After engine stops completely, release the
the right front tire approximately 6 inches and clutch/brake pedal.
block. Loosen the 4 transaxle bolts which
secure the axles to the side frames. The holes g. Position speed control lever as follows: 4
in the side frames are slotted. After loosening
the bolts the transaxle will shift into position. 1) 7-speed units—Place speed control
Tighten the bolts and remove the block from lever in second position.
under right front tire. This procedure will repo-
sition the transaxle and level the unit. (2) 6-speed units—Place speed control
lever between first and second posi-
3. You may see some problems with the steering tion (hold in this position).
arm front axles bending on units with rear bag-
ger and wheel weights. A new steering arm (3) 5-speed units—Place speed control
(part number 16481A) is available. It has also lever in first position.
been determined that wheel weights are not
needed on 600 Series riders with the 063 or h. Remove the cotter pin and flat washer
064 rear baggers. which secures the speed control link to the
variable speed torque bracket assembly.
4-8.2 Speed Control Adjustment.
i. Push the clutch/brake pedal backward by
NOTE hand as far as it will go using light pres-
sure. Hold it in this position as you thread
When operating the unit initially or after replac- the speed control link in or out of the fer-
ing the belts, there will be little difference rule until it lines up with the pin on the vari-
between the highest two speeds until after the able speed torque bracket assembly.
belts have gone through a break-in period and
have seated themselves into the pulleys. j. Secure speed control link to variable
speed torque bracket assembly with flat
1. First, adjust the speed control lever by pushing washer and pin cotter.
the clutch/brake pedal forward until the stop on
the speed control rod is against the running 4-8.3 Belt removal and replacement. It is not nec-
board rod (or until the stop on the brake rod is essary to tip the unit to remove the belts. How-
against the frame, if so equipped). Have ever, if tipping the unit is desired, remove the
another person hold the pedal in this position battery from the unit. To prevent gasoline leak-
as you make the following adjustment. Place age, drain the gasoline, or remove the fuel tank
the speed control lever in parking brake posi- cap, place a thin piece of plastic over the neck
tion. Remove the hairpin cotter and flat of the fuel tank and screw on the cap. Be cer-
washer, and adjust the ferrule on the rod so it tain to remove the plastic when finished chang-
is against the back end of the slot. Then ing the belts. Block unit securely. Replace belts
lengthen the rod one more turn. Replace the as follows:
flat washer and hairpin cotter. See Figure 4-29.
WARNING
2. Adjust speed control link as follows:
Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it
a. Start the engine. against the engine. Block the wheels of the
unit.
b. Place the shift lever in neutral position.

4-19
4-20
1. Rear drive belt. Remove and replace rear belt right so the belt can be removed from the
as follows: transmission pulley. See Figure 4-32.

a. Place shift lever in neutral position.

Unscrew the shift knob and the speed con-
trol knob (if located on the console).
Remove the two truss head screws which
secure the transmission cover. See Figure
4-30.

b. Lift the transmission cover. Unplug the

safety wire from beneath the transmission
cover. See Figure 4-31. Remove transmis-
sion cover. 4

f. Replace belt, and reassemble in reverse

order.

g. Adjust the speed control as instructed in

adjustment section.

2. Front belt drive. Remove and replace front belt

as follows:

a. To remove the front drive belt, first remove

the rear drive belt from the idler pulley and
variable speed pulley.

b. Place the lift lever in the disengaged posi-

tion.

c. Remove the belt keeper pins from the

engine pulley belt guard. Refer to Figure 4-
33.

c. Push the idler pulley toward the right side

of the unit. Lift the belt over the idler pulley.
See Figure 4-32.

d. Remove the belt from the variable speed

pulley.

e. Remove the two bolts which hold the shift

d. Unhook the deck belt from the engine pul-
lever bracket to the frame on the left side
ley.
of the unit. Swing the bracket toward the

4-21
e. Remove the two self-tapping screws on
each side of the frame which hold the
engine pulley belt guard to the frame. See
Figure 4-33. Remove the engine pulley
belt guard by slipping it forward and down.

f. Place the clutch-brake pedal in park posi-

tion.

g. Push forward on the variable speed pulley,

and lift the belt off the engine and remove
the belt from the engine pulley.

h. Release the clutch-brake pedal. Using the

pedal to move the variable speed pulley as
necessary, lift the belt up and off the vari-
able speed pulley.

NOTE

When reassembling, make certain belt is

inside the pins. See Figure 4-34.

i. Reassemble with a new belt, following

instructions in reverse order. j. Adjust the speed control as instructed in
adjustment section.

4-22
4-8.4 SPEED CONTROL ADJUSTMENT F. After engine stops completely, release the
clutch-brake pedal.
NOTE
G. Place speed control lever between first and
When operating the unit initially or after replacing second position (hold in this position).
the belts, there will be little difference between
the highest two speeds until after the belts have H. Remove the cotter pin and flat washer which
gone through a break-in period and have seated secures the speed control link to the variable
themselves into the pulleys. If the full range of speed torque bracket assembly.
speeds cannot be obtained on your unit, adjust
the speed control as follows. I. Push the clutch-brake pedal backward by
hand as far as it will go using light pressure.
1. Adjust the speed control lever by pushing the Hold it in this position as you thread the
clutch-brake pedal forward until the stop on the speed control link in or out of the ferrule until 4
brake rod is against the frame. Have another it lines up with the pin on the variable speed
person hold the pedal in this position as you torque bracket assembly.
make the following adjustment. Place the speed
control lever in parking brake position. Remove J. Secure speed control link to variable speed
the hairpin clip and flat washer, and adjust the torque bracket assembly with flat washer
ferrule on the rod so it is against the back end of and cotter pin.
the slot. Then lengthen rod one more turn. Reas-
semble and secure with the flat washer and hair- 4-8.5 REAR DRIVE BELT
pin clip. See Figure 4-35.
1. Place shift lever in neutral position. Unscrew the
shift knob and the speed control knob (if located
on the console). Remove the two truss head
screws which secure the transmission cover.

2. Lift the transmission cover. Unplug the safety

wire from beneath the transmission cover.
Remove transmission cover.

3. Remove the two screws and hex nut from the

variable speed bracket assembly. Remove
bracket assembly. See Figure 4-36.

2. Adjust the speed control link as follows to obtain

the correct neutral adjustment.

A. Start the engine.

B. Place the shift lever in Neutral position.

C. Place the speed control lever in high speed

position.

D. Release the clutch-brake pedal completely,

then slowly depress the pedal all the way (to
park position). Hold the pedal in this position. 4. Push the idler pulley toward the right side of the
unit. Lift the belt over the idler pulley.
E. Turn the engine off.
5. Remove the belt from the variable speed pulley.

4-23
 6. Remove the belt from the transmission pulley.

7. Replace belt, and reassemble in reverse order.

8. Adjust the speed control as instructed previously.

A.) To increase Dimension ‘‘B,’’ screw tie rod

into tie rod end.

B.) To decrease Dimension ‘‘B,’’ unscrew tie rod

from tie rod end.
4-8.6 NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT
C.) Reassemble tie rod. Check dimensions.
1. Place the transmission in neutral. (The unit will Readjust if necessary. See Figure 4-39.
move freely when pushed forward and backward
with the parking brake released.)

2. Loosen the bolts which secures the shift lever

assembly to the shift lever link.

3. Place the shift lever in the neutral slot. Retighten

the bolts. See Figure 4-37.

4-8.7 WHEEL ADJUSTMENT

The caster (forward slant of the king pin) and the

camber (tilt of the wheels out at the top) require
no adjustment. Automotive steering principles
have been used to determine the caster and
camber on the tractor. The front wheels should
toe-in 1/8 inch. Some units have adjustable tie 4-8.8 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
rods so the toe-in can be adjusted. To adjust the
toe-in on these units, proceed as follows. The brake is located on the right side, under the
seat. During normal operation of this machine,
1 . Remove the hex nut and lock washer, and drop the brake is subject to wear and will require peri-
the tie rod end from the wheel bracket. odic examination and adjustment.

2. Loosen the hex jam nut on tie rod. WARNING

3. Adjust the tie rod assembly for correct toe-in. Do not have the engine running when you adjust
Dimension ‘‘B’’ should be approximately 1/8" less the brake. To adjust the brake, adjust the nut so
than Dimension ‘‘A.’’ See Figure 4-38. the brake starts to engage when the brake lever
is 1/4" to 5/16" away from the axle housing. An
access hole is provided in the seat mounting
bracket. See Figure 4-40.

4-24
 5. Remove the two self-tapping screws on each
side of the frame which hold the engine pulley
belt guard to the frame. Remove the engine pul-
ley belt guard by slipping it forward and down.
See Figure 4-42.

6. Place the clutch-brake pedal in park position.

7. Push forward on the variable speed pulley, and

lift the belt off the engine and remove the belt
from the engine pulley.

8. Release the clutch-brake pedal. Using the pedal

to move the variable speed pulley as necessary,
lift the belt up and off the variable speed pulley.

NOTE

When reassembling, make certain belt is inside

the pins. See Figure 4-43.

4-8.9 FRONT DRIVE BELT

1. To remove the front drive belt, first remove the

rear drive belt from the idler pulley and variable
speed pulley.

2. Place the lift lever in the BLADES OFF position.

3. Remove the belt keeper pins from the engine

pulley belt guard. See Figure 4-41.

NOTE

Make certain belt keeper pins are reassembled.

4. Unhook the deck belt from the engine pulley.

4-25
 9. Reassemble with a new belt, following instruc-
tions in reverse order.

10. Adjust the speed control as instructed previously.

4-8.9 Belt Removal and Replacement With Electric

Clutch.

It is not necessary to tip the unit to remove the

belts. However, if tipping the unit is desired,
remove the battery from the unit. To prevent gas-
oline leakage, drain the gasoline, or remove the
fuel tank cap, place a thin piece of plastic over
the neck of the fuel tank and screw on the cap.
Be certain to remove the plastic when finished
changing the belts. Block unit securely. Replace
belts as follows:

NOTE

On early 1990 units with an electric clutch, if the

unit fails to stop under a heavy load, order a new 2. Front belt drive. Remove and replace front belt
drive belt (part number 754-0358A). Also, the as follows:
pitch of the engine pulley may be too narrow
causing the belt to bind. Order a new engine pul- a. To remove the front drive belt, first remove
ley using the same part number that is in the the rear drive belt from the idler pulley and
Owner’s Guide. variable speed pulley.

b. Use the lift lever to raise the deck to its high-

WARNING est position.

Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it c. Disconnect the spring from the transmission
against the engine. Block the wheels of the unit. support bracket using a spring puller. See
Figure 4-45.
1. Rear drive belt. Remove and replace rear belt as
follows:

a. Unscrew parking brake knob. Remove the

two truss head screws which secure the
transmission cover. Remove transmission
panel.

b. Disconnect the speed selector rod from the

variable speed pulley by removing the cotter
pin and flat washer and lifting rod off the 3/8
inch pin. See Figure 4-44.

c. Push the idler pulley toward the right side of

the unit. Lift the belt over the idler pulley.

d. Remove the belt from the variable speed pul-

ley and transmission pulley.

e. Replace belt and reassemble in reverse

d. Unplug the electric PTO.
order.
e. Remove the torque bracket by removing two
hex bolts and washers. See Figure 4-46.

4-26
 h. Place the clutch/brake pedal in park position.
Remove the belt from the engine pulley.

i. Move the variable speed pulley as necessary

in order to remove the belt.

NOTE

When reassembling, make certain belt is inside

the pins. See Figure 4-48.

4
f. Remove the belt keeper assembly by remov-
ing the four self-tapping screws which hold
the belt keeper assembly to the frame at the
engine pulley.

g. Loosen the pin at the idler pulley and remove

the electric clutch by removing the center
bolt and washer. See Figure 4-47.

j. Reassemble with a new belt following

instructions in reverse order.

k. Check the adjustment of the speed control

as instructed.

4-9. TRANSMATIC TRACTORS 800 SERIES.

4-9.1 The 800 Series tractor is available with two dif-

ferent drive systems.

1. Yard tractor with the heavy duty single speed

transmission. See Figure 4-49.

Continued on page 4-32.

CAUTION

Be careful not to drop the electric clutch as it is

heavy.

4-27
 Subject: Service Kit drag link installation for
model 600 & 800 series tractors 1996 production

Problem: The drag link (the rod between the

steering segment and the steering arm on the
right front wheel) could be installed incorrectly.
Note: The end of the drag link with the letter “A”
stamped into it must be to the rear 800 series
only.

Solution: Remove and reinstall the drag link cor-

rectly. Time allowance: .5 hour
Service Kit Drag Link 600 Series Rider
753-0654
Service Kit Drag Link 800 Series Trac-
tor 753-0674

Tools Required: 1/2" and 9/16" open end

wrenches.

4-28
 4

4-29
 MODELS 600 & 800 SERIES TRACTORS
DRAG LINK INSTALLATION
Subject: Service Kit drag link installation for model 600 & 800 series tractors 1996 production
Problem: The drag link (the rod between the steering segment and the steering arm on the right front wheel)
could be installed incorrectly. Note: The end of the drag link with the letter “A” stamped into it must be to the rear
800 series only.

Solution: Remove and reinstall the drag link correctly. Time allowance: 5 hour
Service Kit Drag Link 600 Series Rider 753-0654
Service Kit Drag Link 800 Series Tractor 753-0674

Tools Required: 1/2” and 9/16” open end wrenches.

1. Turn the steering wheel completely to the right until it bottoms out.
2. Loosen the jam nuts on both the front and rear ball joint.
3. Remove the front ball joint by removing the hex nut on the front ball joint.
4. Unscrew the drag link from the rear of the ball joint.
5. Unscrew the drag link from the front ball joint.
6. Verify the letter “A” is towards the rear of the tractor and thread into the rear ball joint approximately 1".
7. Screw in the front ball joint approximately 1/2".
8. With the steering wheel turned as far as it can turn to the right and with the front tractor wheels turned to
the right so they bottom out, adjust the front ball joint until it fits into the hole in the steering arm. Note:
The spring lock washer must fit on the front ball joint before it is installed into the steering arm.
9. Install and tighten the hex nut on the front ball joint.
10. Using the 1/2" and 9/16" open end wrenches, tighten the jam nuts on the ball joints. Note: The drag link
can swing in a short arc. When you tighten the jam nuts be sure that the drag link is near the center of
the arc so it does not bind when you turn the steering wheel.

4-30
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Lift open hood of tractor.

2.
3.
Peel tape back on the wire harness until you expose approximately 4 inches of the wires. See figure 4-52.
Cut blue wire in half.
4
4. Strip wire back approximately 1/2" on both cut ends.
5. Connect leads from service kit to the wire and secure with the wire nut supplied.
6. Route light switch wire harness along left hand side grille support rod and secure with cable ties provided in
this kit.
Note:Do not tighten cable ties until switch is installed into dash and wire harness is connected to switch.
7. Drill a 1/2" hole through the left hand side of dash panel above the throttle box. See figure 4-53.
8. Remove nut from light switch and insert switch through hole from back of dash panel. Secure to dash panel
with nut.
9. Attach light switch wire harness to terminals of switch and tighten all cable ties. Start engine, test switch.

4-31
 NOTE b. Place the shift lever in NEUTRAL position.

Some of these units come equipped with an c. Place the speed control lever in seventh
electric clutch. These units will not need a deck speed position.
brake since the electric clutch performs that func-
tion. d. Release the clutch/brake pedal completely
and slowly depress the pedal all the way (to
4-9.1 Speed Control Adjustment. See Figure 4-54. park position). Hold the pedal in this position.

NOTE e. Turn the engine off.

When operating the unit initially, or after replac- f. After engine stops completely, release the
ing the belts, there will be little difference clutch/brake pedal.
between the sixth and seventh speeds until after
the belts have gone through a break-in period g. Disconnect the rear speed control link from
and have seated themselves into the pulley. the variable speed torque bracket by remov-
ing the cotter pin and flat washer.
CAUTION
h. Place the speed control lever in the first posi-
Unit MUST NOT be shifted into LOW, HIGH, or tion.
REVERSE GEAR while moving. Shift the speed
selector ONLY while the unit is running or the i. Disconnect the front speed control link from
speed control rear link could bend, affecting the the variable speed torque bracket by remov-
speed control adjustment. ing the cotter pin and flat washer.

1. Proceed with adjustment as follows: j. Place a 1/2 inch shim (for 1991 and 1992
units) or a 5/8 inch shim (for 1990 units)
a. Start the engine. under the point of the bracket on the clutch/
brake pedal as shown in Figure 4-54.

4-32
 k. Thread the front speed control link in or out
of the ferrule until the hole in the link lines up
with the pin on the variable speed torque
bracket. Secure with the flat washer and cot-
ter pin removed in step i.

l. Push the rear speed control link backward

using light pressure, and hold it in this posi-
tion as you thread it into or out of the ferrule
until the hold in the link lines up with the pin
on the variable speed torque bracket. Then
turn the link clockwise two more times (mak-
ing it longer).
4
m. Move the speed selector toward the right so
the hole in the rear speed control link fits
over the pin on the variable speed torque
bracket. Secure with the flat washer and cot-
ter pin removed in step g.

n. Remove the shim from beneath the bracket

on the clutch/brake pedal.

NOTE

You might find that the unit jumps out of high

gear. Before you get into extensive repair, check
to see that the gear shift lever has not been bent.
A bent lever could be rubbing against the drive
belt causing it to be pushed out of gear by the
belt.

4-9.2 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove and replace front belt as follows:

a. Depress the clutch pedal and set parking

f. Roll the belt off the variable speed pulley and
brake.
remove from the engine pulley.
b. Remove the deck from the tractor.
g. Install the new belt following instructions in
reverse order.
c. Raise and block the front wheels of the trac-
tor so you can work under it.
2. Remove and replace rear belt as follows:
d. Remove the four self-tapping screws which
NOTE
hold the belt keeper assembly to the frame at
the engine pulley. Push the belt keeper
If the rear drive belt comes off, the idler pulley
assembly forward, out of the way. See Figure
may need to be repositioned to the rear hole of
4-55.
the idler bracket assembly. See Figure 4-54.
Another cause for rear drive belt failure is the
e. Remove the two pins which act as belt keep-
idler bracket not being in line with the variable
ers by the variable speed pulley. See Figure
speed pulley and transmission pulley. This can
4-56.
be corrected by ordering a new idler bracket
assembly or bending the bracket in line.

4-33
 a. First remove the front drive belt as instructed
In the previous section.

b. Disconnect the spring which secures the

idler pulley to the frame.

c. Remove the transmission cover by unscrew-

ing the two knobs, and removing two truss
machine screws.

d. Roll the belt over the top of the transmission

pulley. Remove belt from the variable speed
pulley.

e. Install the new belt, following instructions in

reverse order.

3. Changes and replacements.

NOTE
a. For 1991, a bracket was added to the foot
pedal assembly to accommodate the foot On some late 1989 and early 1990 800 Series
pedal bracket assembly and spring.This tractors, under a heavy load such as pushing
improves the speed control response time by snow, the unit may not stop because the drive
applying backward pressure on the foot belt hangs up in the engine pulley and does not
pedal assembly. release. The front and rear drive belts have been
changed from cog belts to wrap belts. The new
b. Units in which the rear cog style belts come front belt (part number 754- 0358A) will retrofit
off or continues to drive when the clutch is with no problem. If you need to retrofit the rear
disengaged can be repaired by installing kit belt, you must order a new variable speed pulley
number 753-0526. This type of condition is (part number 717- 0945) with the new belt (part
due to a bent or distorted variable speed number 754- 0362).
bracket assembly, idler bracket and/or torque
bracket. Verify bent condition before install- d. Late production, 1991 units were manufac-
ing kit. If bent condition does not exist install tured with a smooth rear belt (part number
belt kit listed below. 754-0362). When replacement of this belt is
necessary, do not order above kit. This
c. For units produced with the cog style rear smooth style belt should not be confused
belts (part numbers 754-0360 and 754-0358, with the 754-0432 belt. The length of these
early 1991 and prior production) which two belts are different and cannot be inter-
require belt replacement, the belt must be changed.
replaced with a smooth style belt. If rear cog
belt is ordered, both front and rear belts will 4-9.3 Shift Lever. The shift lever is located in the cen-
be shipped and must be replaced as a set. ter of the console and has four positions, HIGH,
Order kit number 753-0528. Kit consists of LOW, NEUTRAL and REVERSE. See Figure 4-
smooth style belts part number 754-0432 57. The clutch-brake pedal must be depressed
(rear) and part number 754-0358 (front). and the lawn tractor must not be moving when
shifting gears. Do not force the shift lever.
Release the clutch-brake pedal slightly to line up
the shifting collar in the transmission. Then try to
shift gears.

4-9.4 Speed Control Lever. The speed control lever is

located on the left fender. It allows you to reg-
ulate the ground speed of the lawn tractor. See
Figure 4-58. To select the ground speed, depress
clutch pedal. Push speed control lever outward
and move backward to slow lawn tractor, move

4-34
forward to increase speed. When desired 4-10. GEAR DRIVE 800 SERIES.
speed has been obtained, release lever in
that position. Whenever clutch is engaged, 4-10.1Gear Shift Lever. The transaxle has four for-
unit will automatically go to the preset speed. ward gears, neutral and reverse. Do not shift
through the gears on the transaxle as you
would in an automobile. Preselect the gear
appropriate for the job you are doing. You
must depress the clutch/brake pedal and
come to a complete stop before shifting
gears. See Figure 4-59.

Clutch/Brake Pedal. The clutch/brake pedal

is located on the right side of the tractor.
Depressing the clutch-brake pedal part way
disengages the clutch. Pressing the pedal all 4
the way down disengages the clutch and
engages the disc brake.

NOTE

4-35
 The clutch/brake pedal must be depressed 2. Raise and block the front wheels of the tractor so
to start the engine. you can work under it.

Remove and replace front belt as follows: 3. Depress the clutch/brake pedal and set the park-
ing brake.
1. If a cutting deck is attached to your tractor,
remove it. Remove the battery.

2. Raise the block under the front wheels of the

tractor so you can work under it.

3. Unscrew the belt guard release next to the

engine pulley. See Figure 4-60.

4. Remove the two belt guard pins on the pulley

assembly.

4. Swing the belt guard forward toward the front of 5. Remove the idler assembly by removing the cen-
the tractor. ter bolt. See Figure 4-62.

NOTE

Observe the way the belt is twisted. If the new

belt is installed backwards, the tractor will run
backwards.

5. Using a bar or large screwdriver, pry the pulley

assembly towards the front of the tractor and
unhook the belt from the pulley. See Figure 4-61.

6. Install the new belt by hooking it over the engine

pulley and twisting the belt to the left as you
attach it to the pulley.

7. Test the operation of the tractor to make certain

the belt has been installed correctly.

Remove and replace rear belt as follows:

1. If a cutting deck is attached to your tractor,

remove it. Remove the battery.

4-36
 6. Remove the center bolt and slide the transaxle 12. Check the brake adjustment.
pulley off.
7. Reassemble in reverse order with a new V-belt. 4-11.2
Eaton Neutral Adjustments. If the tractor creeps
4-11. HYDROSTATIC DRIVE 800 SERIES. with the brake/speed control pedal depressed to
the neutral position, adjust as follows:
4-11.1
Adjust Eaton hydrostatic control as follows: 1. Remove the transmission panel by unscrewing
the control knobs, removing two truss machine
1. Disconnect the control rod from the speed control screws and disconnecting the safety switch.
transfer assembly by removing the hex nut, lock
washer and shoulder spacer from the ball joint 2. Block up the tractor securely so that the rear
assembly on the end of the control rod. See Fig- wheels are off the ground.
ure 4-63. 4
3. Release the brake/speed control pedal.
2. Loosen the two 1/4 inch hex nuts on the pintle
control plate. 4. The brake spring is located by the left rear wheel.
Disconnect the brake spring from the brake rod by
3. Push back on the control rod so that the spacer removing the cotter pin and flat washer on the end
on the pintle drive plate contacts the stop screw. of the rod. Replace flat washer and cotter pin
loosely.
4. Adjust the stop screw until the shift lever can
move freely in the neutral slot (forward to 5. Lock out the brake/speed control pedal (all the
reverse). way forward position).

5. Move shift lever to forward position, and move 6. Loosen the two 1/4 inch hex nuts on the pintle
pintle control plate to fast forward. Be certain to control plate.
hold the pintle control plate in this position as you
tighten the hex nuts in steps 6 and 7. 7. Start the engine.

6. Using a 3/4 inch wrench, turn the center nut on 8. Using a 3/4 inch wrench, turn the center nut on
pintle control plate clockwise until it stops. the pintle control plate until both wheels stop.

7. Tighten securely the two 1/4 inch hex nuts on the NOTE
pintle control plate.
If the wheels turn backward, turn the nut clock-
8. Reassemble the ball joint assembly on the end of wise. If the wheels turn forward, turn the nut coun-
the control rod to the speed control transfer terclockwise.
assembly.
9. Tighten the two 1/4 inch hex nuts securely.
9. Loosen the two lock nuts on the control rod.
10. Reassemble the brake spring, and secure with flat
10. Lock out the brake/speed control pedal (all the washer and cotter pin.
way forward position).
11. Reassemble the transmission cover.
11. Adjust the control rod so the pintle control assem-
bly firmly contacts the stop screw. Tighten lock
nuts on the control rod.

4-37
4-38
4-11.3 9. Tighten the hex nut on the scissor mounting
Hydro-Gear Hydrostatic Neutral Control bracket.
Adjustment. The hydrostatic transmission con-
trol is in correct adjustment when the tractor 10. Thread the speed selector rod in or out of the fer-
does not move with the engine running, the rule until the hydrostatic control lever lines up in
clutch engaged and the hydrostatic control lever the neutral position on the speed control index
in the neutral position. If adjustment is neces- bracket.
sary, follow these steps:
11. Tighten hex jam nut against the ferrule.
1. Raise one rear wheel off the ground by placing a
block under the rear frame. 12. Replace the transmission panel and parking
brake knob.
2. Remove the transmission panel by moving the
parking brake knob and truss machine screws. 13. Remove the block from under the frame and test
the operation of the tractor. 4
3. Loosen the hex jam nut on the speed selector
adjusting rod. See Figure 4--64. 4-11.4
Hydrostatic Control Lever.
The hydrostatic control lever is located on top of
the fender on the left side of the tractor. This sin-
gle control lever, connected to the hydrostatic
transmission, controls both the speed and direc-
tion of the tractor. Infinite speed control is
achieved by moving the control lever forward or
backward. The farther forward or backward you
move the control lever, the faster you will travel.
Pulling the control lever into neutral (N) area will
stop the tractor. To increase rear wheel torque
(pulling power), move the control lever towards
neutral (N) position. The lawn tractor responds
similar to shifting to a lower gear with a gear type
transmission. See Figure 4-65.

4-11.5
Brake Adjustment (See Figure 4-65). The
brake is located by the right rear wheel inside the
frame. During normal operation of this machine,
the brakes are subject to wear and will require
4. Loosen the hex nut on the scissor mounting periodic examination and adjustment.
bracket. See Figure 4-64.

5. Start the engine and run at full throttle.

6. Move the hydrostatic control lever until you find

neutral (rear wheels do not rotate in either direc-
tion).

WARNING

Be careful of the cooling fan on the hydrostatic

transmission.

7. Depress the clutch-brake pedal until both sides

of the scissors touch the spacer on the scissor
mounting bracket.
8. Shut off the engine and release the clutch-brake
pedal.

4-39
1998 800 Series Tractor 5. Tighten hex jam nut against ferrule. Be sure
HYDROSTATIC NEUTRAL CONTROL adjustment rod does not move when tightening
ADJUSTMENT the nut.

The hydrostatic transmission control is in correct 6. Replace transmission panel and parking brake
adjustment when the tractor does not move with knob.
the engine running, the clutch engaged and the
hydrostatic control lever in the neutral position. If 7. Test the operation of the tractor.
unit returns to neutral with the clutch-brake
pedal, but does not return with the control lever: If unit does not return to neutral with the
If adjustment is necessary, follow these steps: clutch brake pedal:

1 With the engine shut-off, depress the clutch- If adjustment is necessary, follow these steps:
brake pedal all the way and set the parking
brake. 1. Raise both rear wheels off the ground by placing
blocks under the rear frame.
2. Remove the transmission panel by removing the
parking brake knob and truss machine screws. 2. Remove right rear wheel by removing the four
lug nuts.
3. Loosen the hex jam nut on the speed selector
adjustment rod. See figure 4-66. 3. Remove cotter pin and flat washer from brake
rod and disconnect rod. See figure 4-67.

4. Depress the clutch-brake pedal all the way and

set the parking brake.
5. Start the engine and run at full throttle.

6. Loosen the socket head screw on the cam block.

See figure 4-67.

7. With a large adjustable wrench or adjustable pli-

ers, rotate cam block until axle stops turning.

8. Tighten socket head screw while holding cam

block.

9. Turn off engine.

10. Press the clutch-brake pedal to release the park-

ing brake.

11. Re-install brake rod and secure with flat washer

and cotter pin.

NOTE
NOTE
Do not re-use cotter pin, always install a new cot-
The hex jam nut has L.H. threads, turn clock - ter pin. Order part number HG-44101.
wise to loosen.
12. Test operation of tractor, making sure brake
4. Thread speed selector adjustment rod in or out works properly.
of the ferrule until the control lever lines up in the
neutral position on the speed control index
bracket.

4-40
 10. Turn the steering wheel fully to the left and the
right to make sure that the drag link does not
touch any part of the tractor frame. If the drag
link does touch, start at step 1 and redo the
adjustment.

11. Tighten hex nut (B).

12. Remove the nail used to align the steering gear.

STEERING SHAFT ADJUSTMENT

1998 800 Series Tractor

If the tractor turns tighter in one direction com-

pared to the other, the steering drag link must be
adjusted. To adjust the drag link follow these WARNING
steps. Refer to figure 4-68.
Do not adjust the brake while the engine is run-
1. Loosen hex jam nut (A) at the rear of the ball ning. Be sure to block the wheels of the tractor
joint. before making the brake adjustment. To adjust
the brake, remove the cotter pin. Adjust the cas-
2. Loosen and remove hex nut (B). tle nut so the brake starts to engage when the
brake lever is 1/4 to 5/16 inch away from the axle
3. Lift the threaded portion of the ball joint out of the housing. See Figure 4-69.
steering arm. Please do not misplace the hard-
ware used to hold ball joint to steering arm. You
will need it again.

4. Set the front wheels facing straight ahead.

5. Turn the steering wheel to the right or the left to

match the alignment holes in the steering brace
and the steering gear.

6. Once aligned, drop a nail through the steering

brace and steering gear alignment holes.

7. Adjust the ball joint in or out on the drag link until

the threaded portion of the ball joint slips through
the hole in the steering arm. Make sure lock
washer (C) is in position between the ball joint
and the steering arm.

8. Tighten hex jam nut (A) against the ball joint.

9. Reattach the ball joint to the steering arm with 4-11.6 Oil Filter.
hex nut (B). Finger tighten only at this time. A full flow replaceable oil filter, located in the oil
lines under the frame near the right rear wheel,

4-41
 should be replaced initially after twenty hours of
operation. Thereafter, replace every 100 hours 5. Hy-Tran (International Harvester)
for commercial or industrial applications and
yearly for normal usage. It can be removed by 6. 10W + Straight Viscosity—SE, CC or CD Rated
turning it counterclockwise by hand. Use Frame Engine Oil.
filter number PH-16, part number 727-0162. See
Figure 4-70. ** 7.20W + Straight Viscosity Nondetergent—SE, CC
or CD Rated Engine Oil.
4-11.7 Checking Hydrostatic Oil Level.
The hydrostatic oil level should be checked prior 8. 30W + Straight Viscosity—SE, CC or CD Rated
to initial use and after every 8 hours of operation. Engine Oil.
To check the hydrostatic oil level, remove the
transmission panel by unscrewing the control **Preferred.
knobs, removing two truss machine screws and
unplugging the safety switch. The oil level must NOTE
be between the low and high marks on the reser-
voir tank. See Figure 4-71. Never use a multi-viscosity oil.

NOTE

You can obtain a cold weather starting kit for

1987 and prior years by ordering kit 753- 0443.
This kit includes an idler which will relax the belt
to the hydrostatic unit and allow starting of the
engine only. This is usually only necessary in
extremely cold weather.

4-11.9
Remove and replace rear drive belt as follows:

1. If a cutting deck is attached to your tractor,

remove it.

2. Roll the bottom edge of belt off the jackshaft pul-

ley.

3. Slip the belt off the transaxle pulley.

4-11.8
The following fluids are recommended for use in
the hydrostatic transmission:
1. Mobil Fluid 300

2. Texaco TL-2209
3. Dextron B (General Motors)

4. M2C-33F and M2B-41A (Ford Motor)

4-42
 5. Reassemble in reverse order using a new belt. 5. Swing the belt guard forward towards the front of
the tractor.
4-11.10
Remove and replace front drive belt as follows: WARNING
1. First remove the rear drive belt as instructed in
paragraph 4-11.9. Observe the way the belt is twisted. If the new
belt is installed backwards, the tractor will run
2. Push forward on the jackshaft assembly. Slip the backwards.
back of the belt at the jackshaft off the jackshaft
pulley. See Figure 4-73. 6. Slip belt off the engine pulley. See Figure 4-75.

3. Pull belt through the idler arm mounting bracket.

7. Install the new belt by hooking it over the engine

pulley and twisting the belt to the left as you
attach it to the jackshaft pulley.

8. Test the operation of the tractor to make certain

4. Release the belt guard by unscrewing the L bolt the belt has been installed correctly.
next to the engine pulley. See Figure 4-74.
4-12. HYDROSTATIC DRIVE 900 SERIES.

4-12.1
General.
The Model 995 hydrostatic garden tractor is
equipped with an Eaton hydrostatic drive trans-
mission coupled with a Peerless Model 2526
Transaxle. This tractor is equipped with a two
speed rear axle for greater versatility. The LOW
range is used when operating the rotary tiller,
moldboard plow and should also be used when
extra power is required. HIGH range operation is
for normal loads, grass cutting and normal use.
See Figure 4-76.

4-12.2 Change oil and filter as follows:

1. The dipstick for the hydrostatic transmission is

located behind the seat. This dipstick checks the
oil level in the hydrostatic transmission, transaxle
and hydraulic lift system. Check oil level when
the hydrostatic oil is cold. Before checking the oil

4-43
 oil level in the hydrostatic transmission, transaxle **Preferred.
and hydraulic lift system. Check oil level when
the hydrostatic oil is cold. Before checking the oil NOTE
level, clean the area around the dipstick hole to
prevent the entry of dirt. Unscrew the dipstick Never use a multi-viscosity oil.
and remove. The oil level should be maintained
to the FULL mark on the dipstick. Check the oil 2. The oil filter is a full flow replaceable oil filter,
level every 8 hours of operation. The capacity of located under the left side of the frame. It should
the unit is 5 quarts. However, because the oil will be replaced initially after twenty hours of opera-
not completely drain from the lift system and tion and thereafter every 100 hours for commer-
hydrostatic transmission, you will only drain cial or industrial applications and yearly for nor-
approximately 3 quarts. To drain, remove the mal usage. It can be removed by turning it
plug from the bottom of the transaxle. The trans- counter-clockwise by hand. Use Fram filter PH-
mission has been filled at the factory with 20W 16 or equivalent.
straight viscosity engine oil (rated SE, CC or
SD). Use only this type of oil when adding fluid to 4-12.3 Neutral Adjustment.
the transmission. When the fluid is changed, you If the hydrostatic control lever does not return to
may use any of the following fluids; however, do the neutral notch on the hydrostatic control lever
not mix different types of fluid in the transmis- guide when the brake pedal is depressed make
sion. the following adjustment:

1. Mobil Fluid 300 1. Loosen the shoulder bolt and lock nut on the
neutral control slide, using a 5/8 inch and 1/2
2. Texaco TL-2209 inch wrench.

3. Dextron B (General Motors) 2. Depress the brake pedal and set the parking
brake with the aid of another person, hold the
4. M2C-33F and M2B-41A (Ford Motor) brake pedal all the way down.

5. Case IH Hy-Tran (MS 1207) 3. Move the hydrostatic control lever into the neu-
tral notch.
6. 10W Straight Viscosity SE, CC or CD Rated
Engine Oil 4. Tighten the shoulder bolt and lock nut on the
neutral control side.
**7. 20W Straight Viscosity SE, CC or CD Rated
Engine Oil

8. 30W Straight Viscosity SE, CC or CD Rated

Engine Oil.

4-44
 4

4-45
4-46
 TRANSAXLES
5-1. General. tection from outside elements such as sand,
dirt and rust that create wear on brake assem-
1. The heavy duty single speed transaxle incor- blies that are exposed on the outside. This
porates features that you may recognize found inside brake assembly will provide longer life
in the model no. 618-002 single speed tran- expectancy.
saxle with similarity of the differential assem-
bly. This unit also uses the positive spring pin 3. The input shaft has needle bearings and also
type clutch collar as is used in model no. 618- incorporates a thrust washer bearing assembly
0009 two speed transaxle. See Figure 5-1. for higher speeds with minimal wear. The
housing is heavy aluminum die cast.
2. This transaxle model no. 618-0003 has a new
feature. The brake disc and brake shoes are 4. The transaxle is lubricated at the factory and
enclosed inside of the transaxle for added pro- does not require checking. If disassembled, for

5-1
 any reason, lubricate with 32 ounces of Shell 3. Inspect the needle bearings in the input hous-
Grease 737-0148. ing for damage and replace if necessary.
Check the thrust washers and thrust bearings
5-1.1 Disassembly of Heavy Duty Single Speed for wear.
Transaxle, Model No. 618-0003. Disassemble
transaxle as follows: Replace if necessary. Check the input shaft for
grooving, scaling and any wear on the spline
NOTE end of shaft. Replace if necessary.

Due to model variations of units, these instruc- 4. Inspect the gears and clutch collar in the hous-
tions are intended for service repairs after the ing for any wear. See Figure 5-4.
transmission has been removed from the unit.

1. Remove the input assembly by removing three

hex bolts using a 7/16 inch wrench. See Figure
5-2.

5. Remove the two axle carriers by removing four

hex bolts and lock washers on each axle. A
9/16 inch wrench is required. See Figure 5-5.

2. Disassemble the input shaft assembly by

removing the two retaining rings on each end
of the input shaft. See Figure 5-3.

6. Check the brake spring and brake cam adjust-

ment. The brake cam should have 1/4 to 3/8
inch gap between brake stop bracket and
brake cam as shown in Figure 5-6.

5-2
 10. Upon removal of housing halves, inspect the
5
7. During reassembly remove the cotter pin from bearings in the housing half and remove the
castle nut and adjust the castle nut in or out to brake puck and inspect for wear. Replace if
obtain the 1/4 to 3/8 inch clearance needed. necessary. See Figure 5-9.
See Figure 5-7.

a. If the bearing needs to be replaced, you

can use an impact puller to remove the
8. Loosen the brake, brake return spring and bearing from the housing.
actuating arm.
b. You can also remove the bearing by first
NOTE applying an ample amount of grease
inside the ID of the bearing. Using a rod of
It is not necessary to remove the brake actuat- the correct diameter, tap lightly on the end
ing arm or spring during disassembly of the of the rod. This will force grease under the
transaxle. bearing, creating a hydraulic lift and forcing
the bearing from the housing.
9. Remove the eight hex bolts holding the two
housing halves together. A 3/8 inch wrench is c. Clean the housing with Locktite primer and
required. See Figure 5-8. reinstall the bearing with Locktite bearing
mount B adhesive sealant. Press in place
using an arbor press and wipe the bearing
clean of excess Locktite.

5-3
11. Remove the brake disc from the drive shaft.
Inspect the disc for wear and grooving on the
brake surface. Replace if necessary. See Fig-
ure 5-10.

12. Remove the differential assembly by pulling

the axle shaft straight out of transaxle housing.
See Figure 5-11.

15. Turn the housing half upside down. Remove

the set screw in the housing holding the detent
spring and ball in the detent of shifter shaft.
See Figure 5-14.

13. Remove the brake puck holder by removing

the two hex bolts with a 3/8 inch wrench. See
Figure 5-12.

14. Remove the drive shaft assembly by pulling

straight out. See Figure 5-13.

5-4
16. Lift up on the shifter assembly and rotate to 21. Disassemble the differential by removing four
remove it from the housing. See Figure 5-15. bolts located at differential housing and gear.
Inspect the miter gears for damage. If they
need replacing, remove the snap ring on the
cross shaft and slide the cross shaft and two
miter gears out. See Figure 5-17.

17. Remove the retaining ring on the drive shaft

and disassemble for inspection.

18. Remove the two bolts holding the spring

retaining plate to the bevel gear. See Figure 5-
16. 22. If the miter gears on the axle shaft need
replacing, remove the hex lock nuts on axle
shafts.

5-1.2 For assembly of heavy duty single speed tran-

saxle, reverse steps 1 through 22.

NOTE

There are up to three shim washers before the

first bevel gear on the drive shaft. They will
vary in thickness, are factory installed and
should not be changed. Electronic shimming
has determined the tolerance needed. The
backlash is factory set on this transaxle to
between 6 to 10 thousandths. The factory uses
19. Inspect the splines in shift collar, drive springs
a 40 thousandths washer on each side of the
and drive pins under the retaining plate and in
drive shaft and then adds a 10 thousandths
the bevel gear. Replace if necessary.
washer as needed to arrive at the proper back-
lash. The 40 thousandths washer is part num-
20. Inspect the drive shaft. Be sure the splines and
ber 736-0444. The ten thousandths washer is
gear teeth are in good condition. Replace if
part number 736-0454.
necessary.

5-5
MTD 2 SPEED TRANSMISSION THEORY OF OPERATION
Before starting the disassembly of the trans-
mission, we want to explain its operation. A
clear understanding of the MTD 2 speed tran-
saxle, part number 618-0229 and its operation
will allow you to better troubleshoot any prob-
lems that you may have with it.

Since the tractor must be stopped before

changing gears, there is a jog built into the shift
lever lockout plate in the neutral position. This
hardened steel plate will not allow the operator
to skip across gears or double engage the
transmission. It allows the shift lever, shift
forks, and clutch collars to only move in certain
directions as shown in Figure 5-18. Figure 5-19

Since this is a constant mesh transmission all

three gear sets are turning regardless of which
gear you are in. Only the gear set that is
engaged by the shift collar drives the output
shaft and axle. The other two gear sets are
free spinning on the drive shaft. See Figure 5-
20.

Figure 5-18

In a neutral position the input pulley drives the

input shaft and pinion gear, the bevel gear, and
the drive shaft. The clutch collars also turn with
the drive shaft but do not engage any drive
gears. The high/low range clutch collar as
shown in Figure 5-19 is on the left and has
engagement lugs on both sides of the collar. Figure 5-20
The reverse clutch collar is on the right and
has lugs on the side facing the reverse chain To shift into low range the high/low clutch collar
assembly. See Figure 5-19. is moved to the left by the shift forks and
engages the 10 tooth gear. The 10 tooth gear
drives the 37 tooth gear on the output shaft
that then drives the bull gear, differential
assembly, and the axle shafts. See Figure 5-
21.

5-6
 To go into the reverse position the shift lever
moves through neutral, assuring that the high/
low clutch collar is in the neutral position, (see
Figure 5) and engages the reverse clutch col-
lar into the 9 tooth sprocket of the reverse
chain assembly. The chain then drives the 16
tooth sprocket on the output shaft, again driv-
ing the bull gear, differential, and axle shaft in
reverse. See Figure 5-24.

Figure 5-21. Forward - Low Range

To shift into high range the same high/low 5

clutch collar is moved to the right, disengaging
the low range gear, moving through the neutral
position. See Figure 5-22.

Figure 5-28.

A chain and sprocket assembly allow two

shafts to turn in the same direction. This is how
reverse is achieved in this transmission. Using
gears on two shafts reverses the direction that
the shafts turn. This is how the high/low range
gears operate, as shown in Figure 5-25.

Figure 5-22.

Engage the 20 tooth gear which drives the 27

tooth gear on the output shaft which drives bull
gear, differential, and axle shaft. See Figure 5-
23.

Figure 5-25.

The differential assembly is used to allow the

left and right axles to turn at different speeds.
This occurs when the tractor turns. The inside
axle slows down and the outside axle must
speed up. Gears within the differential allow
this to happen without changing the ground
speed of the unit. Not having a differential
Figure 5-23. would tear up the lawn or the transmission dur-

5-7
ing turns. What about shimming? The primary
reason for shimming is to set the proper back-
lash or clearance between gears. This is espe-
cially important on bevel gears. In this case it’s
the backlash between the bevel gears on the
input pinion and the drive shaft. Too much
backlash can create a noisy transmission and
too little backlash creates a tight transmission
that will wear very quickly. See Figure 5-26.

Figure 5-28.

Another shim is used on the input pinion shaft

and is placed between the re Thrust washers
are also used on the drive shaft, output shaft,
and axle shaft to absorb the thrust and side
loading of the gears so that they do not rub on
the aluminum transmission housing.

This transmission uses a heavy gear oil to

lubricate the moving parts. The heavy oil does
Figure 5-26.
not stick to the parts as much as grease does,
helping to remove heat from the moving parts.
When the transmission is manufactured a shim
of the proper thickness is used on the drive
Important Note: Gasket Installation
shaft between the 10 tooth gear and the trans-
mission housing to set the proper clearance
1. Prior to reassembly of the transmission, make
between the input pinion bevel gear and the
sure that all gasket grooves in the housing
bevel gear on the drive shaft. See Figure 5-27.
halves are clean and dry. The surrounding
perimeter must also be free of oil and other flu-
ids.

2. It is not recommended to re-use a rubber

molded gasket as it conforms to the irregulari-
ties of the casting surface. This condition will
cause a leak if the irregularities are not
matched during reassembly.

3. The gasket is designed specifically for a snug

fit and does not require sealant in the casing
groove. RTV sealant will only need to be used
where the ends of the gasket meet at the mat-
ing surfaces. It is required at the flat ends only.
Figure 5-27. Do not overuse the RTV.

Another shim is used on the input pinion shaft 4. Align the locating tabs on the gasket with the
and is placed between the retaining ring and proper locations on the casting. The ribs
the transmission housing, setting the proper should be facing up.
amount of end float for the input shaft bevel
gear. See Figure 5-28. 5. Gently push the gasket into the casing groove.
Be certain not to stretch the gasket. Stretching
will create surplus material at the end of the
groove and a poor seal may result.

5-8
 inch mounted on needle bearings. The input
5-2. TWO SPEED TRANSAXLE. 1996 AND shaft is also mounted on needle bearings and
PRIOR thrust washer assembly for high speed opera-
tion. The shift lever is located in the front part
5-2.1 The two speed transaxle, part number 717- of the housing and has 4 positions: high, low,
1150, incorporates a differential and high and neutral and reverse. The 2 shift forks move 2
low range drive gear assemblies in an alumi- shift collars that are unique in design. They
num die cast housing. The differential consists have spring loaded pins that make for easier
of an assembly of 6 miter gears for added engagement from high to low speed. See Fig-
strength and long life durability. The axles are 1 ure 5-29

5-9
 NOTE

New for 1995: A redesigned shifter and lockout

plate has been added. To update, use service
kit 753-0598.

5-2.2 The creeper collar plate assembly has a steel

cut low gear which is for forward-low and
reverse gear. The forward shift collar would be
for the high speed gear. This transaxle uses a
combination of powdered metal and steel cut
gears. MTD’s minimum specifications for pow-
dered metal gears for strength are 75,000 PSI.

5-2.3 The speed range of this transaxle is low gear

through the 7 ranges would be .452 MPH to
1.868 MPH. In high gear the speeds through
the 7 ranges would be 1.490 MPH to 6.163 NOTE
MPH.
Upon reassembly, be sure to replace shim
5-2.4 The brake disc and actuating assembly is also plates.
incorporated for better stopping action.
4. Remove the four detent springs. Remove the
5-2.5 The transaxle is lubricated and sealed at the four detent balls from the housing using a
factory and does not require checking. If disas- small magnet.
sembled for any reason, lubricate with 16
ounces of Darina grease part number 737- NOTE
0148.
If you have a unit that will not fully go into
5-2.6 Disassembly of Two Speed Transaxle. reverse or pops out of reverse, high or low
gear for no reason, you can remove the shim
NOTE plate that is directly underneath the shim plate
cover. This will give you more tension on the
Due to model variations of units, these instruc- detent springs and allow a greater detent on
tions are intended for service repairs after the your shifter arm assemblies.
transmission has been removed from the unit.
5. Remove eighteen perimeter bolts from tran-
1. Remove the shift lever assembly which con- saxle housing. See Figure 5-31.
sists of the shift lever, upper snout or block,
lower snout, and two O-rings. If your shift lever
is the older style, you should replace it with the
newer style. Service kit 753-0598.

2. Place the transaxle upside down on a work-

bench.

NOTE

If you are ordering a complete transaxle kit,

part number 753-0497, you will receive every-
thing except the shift lever. Keep your old shift
lever.

3. Remove the detent plate cover and shim plate

from front edge of transaxle by removing two
hex bolts and lock washers. See Figure 5-30.

5-10
6. Remove the lower housing. Be sure to retain NOTE
the four springs and detent balls. See Figure 5-
32. If installing the new upper housing kit, 753-
0601, discard the old housing but retain all old
hardware.

8. Roll back the drive shaft assembly and remove

the shim washers from each end of the drive
shaft. See Figure 5-34.

NOTE

It is important to pay close attention to how

many shim washers you removed and where
you removed them from. They were placed in
proper order so that you retain the minimum
.004 to .007 thousandths backlash during reas-
sembly. 5

CAUTION

During reassembly, place the detent balls into

the detent holes in the shift arm assembly
AFTER you have assembled the two halves
together. Then, insert the springs followed by
the shim plates and the bolts with lock wash-
ers. Also, prior to installing this two speed tran-
saxle into a unit, it must be in NEUTRAL
position. If not, you will have a high chance of
double engagement which will do serious dam-
age to this transmission.

7. Remove the two shifters and lockout plate (if

installed in unit) and dowel pins. Inspect for
wear on the lockout plate (if so equipped), shift
pins, detent surfaces and dowel pins. Replace
if necessary. See Figure 5-33. 9. Remove the two ball bearings and shim wash-
ers from the drive shaft. See Figure 5-35.

5-11
 pins. The drive pins must move freely. Replace
if necessary. See Figure 5-37.

10. Remove the shift collar assembly from the

drive shaft. Remove the shift ring plugs from
the back of the shift collar. Inspect the position
of the retaining rings and check the ends of the 12. Remove the high gear snap ring. See Figure 5-
pins to see if they are rounded off or broken. 38.
Replace if necessary. See Figure 5-36.

NOTE

Be careful not to over spring the snap ring

upon removal.
11. To disassemble the clutch collar, remove the
retaining ring, metal stamping, spring and drive

5-12
13. Remove high gear from drive shaft. Inspect for
wear. Replace if necessary. See Figure 5-39.

5
14. Remove the heavy duty retaining ring (snap
ring) and washer from drive shaft at 11-tooth
low gear. Remove gear and inspect for wear.
Replace if necessary. See Figure 5-40. NOTE

Shims have to be placed in proper order to

retain the minimum 4 to 7 thousandths back-
lash upon reassembly. Pay close attention to
how many you remove and where you
removed them from. See Table 5-1.

Table 5-1. Shim Washers

Outer Shim Washers (used between outer

bearings and transmission housing):

736-0423—1" ID x .010" thick

736-0431—1" ID x .015" thick
736-0424—1" ID x .020" thick
736-0420—1" ID x .040" thick

Inner Shim Washers (used between the bear-

ing and low gear creeper collar plate assem-
NOTE bly):

When reassembling the transaxle, always use 736-0349—5/8" ID x .020" thick

new snap rings. 736-0336—5/8" ID x .030" thick
736-0337—5/8" ID x .040" thick
15. Rotate the drive shaft assembly down into the
housing and rotate the output shaft assembly 17. Remove the disc brake and shim from the out-
up. Inspect all gear surfaces for wear. Replace put shaft and inspect for worn surface, cracks
if necessary. and that the splines are a good fit on the output
shaft.
16. Remove the ball bearings and shim washers
from each end of output shaft. See Figure 5- 18. Remove the 45 tooth gear from the output
41. shaft and inspect for damage or wear. Replace
if necessary. See Figure 5-42.

5-13
19. Remove the 31 tooth gear, shim washer and
spacer from the output shaft. Inspect for wear. 21. Remove the drive shaft from the housing.
Replace if necessary. See Figure 5-43.
22. Remove the 11 tooth gear and the gold shim
washer which protects the bronze bushing.
See Figure 5-45.

NOTE

For purpose of reassembly, note that the

spacer goes up against the sprocket assembly
and the shim washer goes up against the 31
tooth gear.

20. Remove the output shaft from the 22 tooth 23. Remove the clutch collar.
sprocket. Note there is an additional shim
washer which must be removed. See Figure 5- 24. Remove the retaining ring which holds the 25
44. tooth gear on the drive shaft. See Figure 5-46.

5-14
 5

27. Remove the drive shaft, check the bearing

25. Remove the 25 tooth gear and shim washer. locations for wear and check the splines for
See Figure 5-47. wear.

28. Disengage the reverse sprocket from the chain

and remove spacer with sprocket.

NOTE

Upon reassembly, the hub side of 22 tooth

sprocket goes toward the bevel gear.

29. Inspect the chain for rust or any tight links.

Clean chain and make sure all links are free.

30. Remove the four needle bearings from the axle

shaft. See Figure 5-49.

26. Remove the 42 tooth bevel gear and check

teeth for wear and any broken teeth. Replace if
necessary. See Figure 5-48.

5-15
 NOTE 35. Remove the retaining ring from the input shaft.
See Figure 5-51.
The two outside bearings have lip seals and
MUST be assembled to the outside of housing
upon reassembly.

31. Remove the four hex bolts and lock nuts hold-
ing the differential assembly together. See Fig-
ure 5-50.

36. Remove the pinion gear, 2 flat washers and

needle thrust washer and pull the input shaft
out of the housing. See Figure 5-52.

32. Upon opening the differential assembly, clean

and wash all parts.

33. Inspect the miter gears on the axle shafts. If

disassembly is required, peel off the two retain-
ing rings with a pocket knife. Sometimes the
miter gears are tight on axle shaft and may
have to be tapped lightly with a hammer.

34. Inspect the inner parts of differential. Remove

the two half cross shafts, one full cross shaft,
four 10 tooth pinions, main differential block
and four thrust blocks. Inspect parts for wear or
damage and replace if necessary.

5-16
 NOTE

Care MUST be taken upon reassembly of the

input shaft into the housing. The two needle
bearings have lip seals. Refer to Figures 5-49
and 5-65.

8-5.7 For reassembly, reverse steps 1 through 33.

REASSEMBLY TIPS

1. When replacing the output shaft into the trans-

mission, place the bearings on the shaft ends
without the shim washers. See Figure 5-53.

4. Shim drive shaft for .004 to .007 backlash of

5
bevel gear. Shim opposite side for end float
only. See Figure 5-56.

2. Check with a feeler gauge for proper shim

requirements. Allow .010 end float and assure
correct alignment of gears. See Figure 5-54.

5. Using a screwdriver to separate the brake

pucks, install the output shaft with the brake
disc in place. See Figure 5-57.

3. Reinstall gear cluster and bearings onto drive

shaft without shims and slide into housing. See
Figure 5-55.

5-17
6. First place the pins into the housing. See Fig-
ure 5-58.

9. Install detent balls into lower housing. See Fig-

ure 5-61.
NOTE

The shift forks are replaced in a slightly differ-

ent order.

7. Then the lockplate. See Figure 5-59.

NOTE

The lockout plate must be installed with the tab

behind the bevel gear.

8. Install shift forks. Secure transmission housing

halves together with 1/4-20 screws. See Figure
5-60.

5-18
10. Install detent springs into lower housing. See
Figure 5-62.

5
18. Secure the shifter with the four screws and
tighten to 60 to 90 in-lbs.
11. Install the shim plate and cover over detent
screws. See Figure 5-63. 19. After installation of the shifter, make sure you
can shift into all three gears.

20. Install the transmission into the unit.

NOTE

Attach the yellow wire to the reverse safety

switch and secure the shift cover.

21. Install the parking brake rod through the shift

cover.

22. Install the shift knob and parking brake knob.

23. Test the unit for proper operation.

12. Install the shifter assembly by placing the O- 24. Test the reverse safety switch for proper oper-
ring in the lower snout groove. ation.

13. Install the O-ring into the upper snout and 5-3. DISASSEMBLY OF 4-WHEEL STEER TRAN-
make sure it stays in position during installa- SAXLE, MODEL NO. 717-1287.
tion.
5-3.1 General.
14. Apply “Never Seize” to the ball on the shifter.
1. The 4 wheel steer transaxle incorporates fea-
15. Install the lower snout onto the shifter. tures that you may recognize found in the
model number 717-1050, single speed tran-
16. Make sure that both shift forks are in the neu- saxle with similarity of the differential assem-
tral position before installing the shift lever. bly. This unit also uses the positive spring pin
type clutch collar as is used in model number
17. From a front position with the shift lever on 717-1150 two speed transaxle.
your left, insert the shifter into the transmission
with the lever to the left of the neutral position
and in the low range quadrant. See Figure 5-
64.
5-19
 3. The input shaft has needle bearings and also
incorporates a thrust washer bearing assembly
for higher speeds with minimal wear. See Fig-
ure 5-52 and 5-65. The housing is heavy alu-
minum die cast.
This section will demonstrate the disassembly,
inspection, and reassembly of the MTD 2
speed transaxle, part number 618-0229.

1. Place the shift lever in the neutral position and

remove the three screws attaching the shift
lever cover.
2. This transaxle, model number 717-1287, has a
new feature: the brake disc and brake shoes 2. Remove the shift lever cover.
are enclosed inside of the transaxle for added
protection from outside elements such as 3. Pull the shift lever straight up to remove it from
sand, dirt and rust that create wear on brake the transmission.
assemblies that are exposed on the outside.
This inside brake assembly will provide longer 4. Remove the shifter insert and inspect for wear
life expectancy. or damage.

SERVICING THE 618-0229 MTD 2 SPEED TRANSAXLE

Figure 5-67.
Figure 5-66.
6. Six bolts, three on each side of the housing,
5. Turn the transmission over to allow access to are 2 and 5/8 inches long. See Figure 5-68.
the perimeter bolts. There are two sizes of
perimeter bolts. Most will be 3/4 inch long. One
is in the center of the transmission. See Figure
5-67.

5-20
 10. Remove the entire drive train by grabbing the
axles with two fingers and pushing down on
the housing with your thumbs to release the
axles from the housing. Then, with one hand
under the differential and the other on the front
shaft, remove the entire gear train from the
housing and place it on the workbench. See
Figure 5-71.

Figure 5-68.

7. Remove all perimeter bolts. 5

8. Separate the housing halves and inspect the
two gaskets on the lower housing half for dam-
age. See Figure 5-69.

Figure 5-71.

11. Inspect the remaining housing gasket for any

damage. Replace any damaged gaskets
before reassembly.

12. Inspect the shifter lockout plate for damage.

You do not need to remove it unless it is dam-
aged.

13. Inspect the pinion gear for any nicks or

extreme wear. If damaged, replace the gear,
input shaft, and seal. See Figure 5-72.

Figure 5-69.

9. Inspect the gaskets on the upper housing half

for damage. See Figure 5-70.

Figure 5-72.

14. Inspect the brake. Make sure the actuating

arm is working properly and that the brake
Figure 5-70.

5-21
 pucks are not excessively worn. Replace if 17. Remove the left side bearing block. This allows
necessary. See Figure 5-73.. the output shaft and drive shaft assembly to
come loose from the transmission. Remove
the large washer from the output shaft.
Remove the smaller washer from the drive
shaft. Remove the chain and both sprockets as
one unit. See Figures 5-76 and 5-77.

Figure 5-73.

15. Next remove the right hand bearing block.

Remove the washer on the drive shaft.
Remove the shift fork assembly and inspect
the shift fork tabs for wear or damage. Inspect Figure 5-76.
the slots for damage. See Figure 5-74.

Figure 5-74. Figure 5-77.

16. Remove the brake disc and inspect for any 18. Remove the large sprocket and inspect the
damage. See Figure 5-75. teeth for any damage. Remove the smaller
sprocket. Notice that there are two sprockets.
The teeth that are on the end of the part are for
drive engagement and the teeth that are on the
center of the part and are beveled on both
sides are for the chain.

Inspect the chain for damage. See Figure 5-

78.

Figure 5-75.

5-22
 25. Inspect the drive shaft and splines for any
damage. Inspect the low range gear. It should
spin freely. If the gear is damaged you will
need to replace the entire drive shaft and gear
as one assembly.

NOTE

You can remove and inspect most of the inter-

nal parts of the transmission without having to
remove the wheel flanges. See Figure 5-80.

Figure 5-78.

19. Remove the low range gear and inspect for 5

any damage. Remove the spacer. Then
remove the high range gear and inspect for
damage. See Figure 5-79.

Figure 5-80.

NOTE

If you need to inspect and repair the differen-

tial, start by removing the flange nut. Then
remove the wheel flange. A puller may be
needed to remove the flange.

Figure 5-79. 26. Inspect the studs for wear or stripped threads.

20. Inspect the output shaft and gear area for any 27. Remove the outer axle bearing block assembly
damage. and inspect the seals and bearing for damage.
This bearing should be greased internally.
21. Remove the reverse clutch collar from the
drive shaft and inspect the pins for any dam- 28. Remove the right hand bearing block and
age. inspect the bearings, bushings, and seals.

22. Remove the bevel gear and inspect the teeth. 29. Remove the inner bearing block and inspect
the bearing. There are no seals on this block.
23. Remove the high range drive gear. Inspect the
teeth for damage and the inside holes for any 30. Remove the differential washer. See Figure 5-
pin damage. 81.
24. Remove the high low range clutch collar and
inspect the pins on both sides for any damage.

5-23
 To reassemble the transmission install the bull
gear, making sure that you line up the tabs with
the slots on the gear.

38. Assemble the cluster gears by aligning the

grooves on the two shafts. Insert the assembly
into the bull gear.

39. Line up the right hand axle with the differential

tabs and insert it into the bull gear assembly.
Install the four bolts and lock nuts and torque
to 120 inch pounds. See Figure 5-83.

Figure 5-81.

31. Remove the four differential bolts and separate

the differential half.

32. Inspect the side gear for any damage.

33. Remove the cluster of miter gears.

34. Inspect the gear teeth for damage or wear.

Separate the shafts. Both shafts and gears are
identical.
Figure 5-83.
35. Remove the bull gear and inspect the teeth
and lug areas for any damage. See Figure 5- Install the differential washer.
82.
40. Install the inner bearing block. This is the thin-
ner bearing block.

41. Install the right hand main bearing block.

42. Install the outer axle block.

43. Install the wheel flange with the hub facing in.
Attach the axle retaining nut, using locktite
#242 and torque to 80-100 ft. lbs., with the
tapered side toward the flange. See Figure 5-
84.

Figure 5-82.

36. Inspect the left hand side gear for any damage.

37. Inspect the components of the left side of the

axle shaft for any damage. You will not need to
disassemble these components unless there is
damage.

This completes the disassembly of the 2 speed

transmission.
Figure 5-84.
5-24
 NOTE

Make sure the hub assembly nut is part num-

ber 712-0364A, which is a lock nut and should
be torqued 80-100 ft. lbs. Refer to Bulletin #T-
133 if in question and be sure when installing
the nut the threads are clean. Overtorquing
can damage the hub assembly.

44. Install the high low clutch collar onto the drive
shaft making sure that the pins line up with the
gear teeth. Install the high range gear. Install
the bevel gear with the hub towards the high
range gear. Install the reverse clutch collar with Figures 5-87.
the pins facing away from the bevel gear. See
Figure 5-85.
5

Figure 5-85 Figure 5-88.

45. Next assemble the output shaft assembly by

installing the high range gear, followed by the
spacer, then the low range gear, and then the
two washers See Figure 5-86.

Figure 5-89.
47. Install the large washer onto the left side of the
output shaft.

48. Install the smaller washer on the spur gear

Figure 5-86 side of the drive shaft.
46. Take the chain and install the nine tooth 49. Slide the entire gear train assembly against the
sprocket from underneath. Install the 16 tooth differential gear.
sprocket shift fork. Slide the assembly onto the
output shaft and drive shaft as one unit. See 50. Slide the left hand bearing block over the out-
Figures 5-87, 5-88 and 5-89. put shaft and drive shaft. Being cautious with
the seal of the output shaft. See Figure 5-90.

5-25
 54. Set the entire drive train into the upper housing
starting with the top portion. Line up all axle
bearing blocks with the housing, align the
brake disc with the brake pucks, using a
screwdriver if necessary, and set the axle into
the housing. See Figures 5-92 and 5-93.

Figure 5-90.

51. Install the shift fork assembly onto the drive

train and into the bearing block.

52. Slide the right hand bearing block over the out-
put shaft, drive shaft, and shift fork assembly. Figure 5-93.
See Figure 5-91.
55. All bearing blocks should be just above flush
with the housing.

56. Place a small amount of RTV sealant at the

corners of the main bearing block where the
gaskets will overlap. Also place a small amount
around the center bolt hole. See Figure 5-94.

Figure 5-91.

53. Install the brake disc with the hub facing out.
See Figure 5-92.

Figure 5-94.

NOTE

Make sure the gaskets are in place on the

lower housing and install it over the upper
housing. At this point in reassembly, install
lubrication approximately one quart of 90W
lube oil or it can be installed later through the
shifter hole.

57. Place the six long screws through the main

bearing block in the housing, three on each
Figure 5-92. side, and tighten by hand. This aligns the
housing halves. See Figure 5-95.
5-26
 Install the shifter insert with the groove up.
Then the shift lever. Followed by the shift lever
cover, making sure that the slot is vertical and
the mounting holes line up with the housing.

Slide the cover over the shift lever. Hold the

shift cover down, install the three mounting
screws.

Torque to between 90 and 120 inch pounds.

This completes the servicing of the MTD 2

speed transaxle.

Figure 5-95. 5-4. HYDROSTATIC TRANSAXLE.

58. Install the center screw, followed by all the 5-4.1 General.
remaining screws.
1. The 717-0950 transaxle incorporates differen-
5
59. Tighten the center bolt first, followed by the six tial and gear reduction assemblies. See Figure
bearing block screws, and then the remaining 5-98. It must be used with part number 717-
perimeter screws. Torque to between 90 and 0940 BDU-10S-Sunstrand Hydrostatic Pump.
120 inch pounds. See Figure 5-96. (See Section 6.) All internal drive and axle
shafts are resting/turning on heavy duty ball
bearings designed for longer life expectancy.
The input shaft has needle bearings and also
incorporates a thrust bearing assembly for
higher speeds with minimal wear. The housing
is aluminum die-cast and specially designed
for use on lawn and garden tractors.

2. This heavy duty transmission guides the lawn

and garden tractor smoothly forward no matter
what type of ground is being covered without
shifting or any clutching. A control lever is used
to regulate the hydrostatic pump to increase or
decrease the speed in either forward or
reverse directions. The transaxle also houses
Figure 5-96. the complete disc brake assembly with provi-
sion for easy adjustment.
60. Turn the transmission over.
NOTE
NOTE

Make sure both shift forks are in a neutral posi- The transaxle is lubricated and sealed at the
tion before installing the shift lever. See Figure factory. It does not require checking. If disas-
5-97. sembled for any reason, lubricate with 16 oz.
of Shell Durina #O grease, part number 737-
3047.

5-4.2 Disassembly of Transaxle

1. Remove transaxle and pump from tractor. See

Figure 5-99.

2. Remove pump from transaxle by removing two

bolts and nuts from front of transaxle using a
Figure 5-97. 1/2 inch wrench. See Figure 5-100.
5-27
 3. Remove retaining ring from input shaft. See
Figure 5-101.

NOTE

The washer under the retaining ring is factory

selected. If you are repairing the unit, the max-
imum end play is .010 and is adjusted with
shim washers and checked with a feeler gauge
under the retaining ring.

4. You must remove the input housing bearing

and shaft from the top of transaxle in order to
remove all of the bolts holding the transaxle
together.

5-28
 NOTE

Housing couplings may seize to shaft splines.

Use a puller to remove or GENTLY tap them
for removal.

7. Remove disc brake and disc by removing a

hex nut and lock washer on the rear of brake.
Loosen hex nut on brake stop bolt. Remove
the brake stop bolt, nut and lock washer. See
Figure 5-102.

NOTE

When you remove the disc brake, the backup

disc and one brake pad will fall out. Also when
removing the disc the second brake disc will
fall out.
NOTE
NOTE
Use an impact puller to remove the bearings
from the housing or tap out using a rod of the You do not have to remove the brake assembly
correct diameter. Reinstall the bearings with to split housing halves. This is done only if you
Locktite Bearing adhesive sealant. Press in are going to remove the pinion shaft with the
place using an arbor press and wipe bearing 11 tooth gear.
clean of excess Locktite.
8. Before pulling housing halves apart, axle shaft
5. Remove three input shaft bolts. ends must be free of rust and nicks for ease of
disassembly. With a piece of fine emery cloth
NOTE clean shafts and inspect for good clean sur-
faces. See Figure 5-103.
When reassembling use Locktite on input shaft
bolts and torque to 80-120 in-lbs.

6. Remove six bolts 3 inches long and two bolts 2

inches long from transaxle housing halves. A
3/8 inch wrench is required.
5-29
 10. After transaxle housing halves have been sep-
arated, clean all grease from parts. See Figure
5-106.

9. Carefully pry halves apart in areas shown in

NOTE
Figure 5-104.
When reinstalling screws into aluminum hous-
ings, you should turn the screws counterclock-
wise until they click into place and seat
themselves before tightening them in the usual
manner. This will avoid cross threading and
damage to the housing.

11. Remove reduction gear (60 and 17 tooth) from

drive shaft. See Figure 5-107.

CAUTION

DO NOT nick mating surfaces. Tap lightly on

drive shaft with a brass hammer as needed.
See Figure 5-105.
NOTE

The washers between reduction gears and ball

bearings are factory selected to insure proper
clearance between the gears. A .040 shim
washer is used on the small reduction gear
side and either a .050 or .060 shim washer is
used on the large gear side.

12. Inspect reduction gear for any damaged teeth.

Also inspect needle bearing in the center of
gear. Replace if necessary. See Figure 5-108.

5-30
 14. Disassemble differential by removing four
socket head bolts and lock washers. See Fig-
ure 5-110. Inspect differential gear (72 teeth)
for any damage. Replace if necessary.

NOTE

The reduction gear also has a grease pocket.

Upon reassembly, press bronze thrust bearing
on reduction gear dowel pin. It is important that 5
bronze thrust bearing grease pocket FACE
OUTWARD as shown in Figure 8-91. The
grease pocket is pressed on to reduction gear
to insure grease movement. When replacing,
make sure that it is installed properly. 14 oz. of
Shell Durina #O grease is used in this tran-
saxle. 15. Inspect two miter gears on axle shafts for any
wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
13. Remove differential assembly from housing
half. See Figure 5-109. 16. Remove retaining ring.

CAUTION

DO NOT REUSE RETAINING RINGS from the

cross shaft and slide shaft through miter gears.

17. Remove miter gears and inspect for damage.

Replace if necessary.

18. Remove pinion shaft with 11 tooth gears, first

remove the hi-pro key from shaft. Then pull
gear and shaft out of housing. See Figure 5-
111. Inspect gear teeth for any damage and
inspect shaft for any damage on splines.
Replace if necessary.

5-31
 19. Remove drive shaft and drive pinion (17 tooth)
from housing. Inspect gear teeth for any dam-
age. Replace if necessary. Also inspect splines
on drive shaft for wear or damage. Replace if
necessary.

20. Reassembly is the reverse order of disassem-

bly. Bolts securing both housing halves are
self-tapping bolts and must be torqued to 80 to
120 in-lbs. Over torquing bolts will strip out
threads. If any of these threads are stripped,
drill (using 1/4 inch drill) through damaged
boss. Reinstall a 1/4-20 Grade 5 bolt and nut
reaching through both housings. Use Locktite
#242 on nut and torque to 80 to 120 in-lbs.

5-32
 HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSIONS
6-1. GENERAL. matching of torque and speed requirements by
the hydrostatic transmission.
For further information regarding this section,
refer to the technical service video “Hydrostatic The gear transmission has only three points of
Drive Systems.” peak power while the hydrostatic transmission
offers a continuous curve without peaks and
6-1.1 The Eaton Light Duty Hydrostatic Transmis- valleys. You do not have to stop and shift down
sion consists of a variable displacement radial to gain more torque, just move the control lever
ball piston hydraulic pump, a fixed displace- toward neutral and the output torque capability
ment radial ball piston hydraulic motor and a increases. See Figure 6-1.
system of valves all contained in one housing.
It can be used in many different types of appli-
cations where variable output speed is a
requirement. It has many advantages over
other variable speed drives (electric and
mechanical) and gear type transmissions.

1. Response. These transmissions respond

6
faster than other type of power-transmit-
ting system.

2. Precise speed. Has the capability of main-

taining precise speed under varying load
conditions.

3. Ease of operation. One lever controls

direction and speed smoothly without gear
change.

4. Low maintenance. Simple design keeps

maintenance to a minimum.

5. Increased productivity and versatility. It

allows complete matching or power to 6-1.3 Simplified Operation. A single control lever
load. connected to the pump section controls both
speed and direction of the transmission output
6. Self contained. There are no external pres- shaft. Infinite speed control is achieved by
sure lines, separate drive components, varying the displacement ratios between the
etc. pump and motor. Moving the control lever from
neutral to forward produces one direction of
7. Simplified final product design. It reduces output shaft rotation. When the lever is in neu-
the number of mechanical drive compo- tral position, output shaft rotation stops. Mov-
nents. ing the lever from neutral to reverse produces
the opposite output shaft rotation from the for-
8. Positive braking action. The lever that con- ward position. Output shaft speed increases as
trols speed also provides braking. The out- the lever is moved from neutral.
put shaft speed decreases as lever is
moved toward neutral. With lever in neu- 6-1.4 Factors That May Affect Neutral Settings.
tral, output stops.
1. Unit efficiency. The more efficient a unit is,
6-1.2 Smooth Performance. This graph shows the the narrower the neutral band width will be
difference in operation of the hydrostatic trans- in a direct acting control swashplate,
mission compared to a speed gear transmis- unless some neutral valving device is
sion. The smooth curve represents the uniform used.

6-1
 2. Input speed. Faster input speeds have the 2. Check valves on the inlet side of the pump are
capability to pump more fluid at the same open to the reservoir enabling the pump to
swashplate angle. draw fluid as needed. Speed control is
achieved by changing the amount of oil deliv-
3. Axle ratio. A higher ratio will take less pres- ered by the variable displacement pump to the
sure to make a vehicle move than one with fixed displacement motor by moving the con-
a lower ratio, assuming similar vehicles. trol lever. See Figure 6-3.

4. Ground conditions. On flat smooth con- 3. The Model 7 hydrostatic pump is not a self
crete, a vehicle will have less rolling resis- purging pump and must be manually purged if
tance than on a rough or grassy surface. it gets air in the system or is repaired. To purge
the pump you would remove the air vent plug
5. Tire size, style, and pressure, along with that is next to the expansion tank and fill the
vehicle weight, will have an effect on the tank until fluid comes out of the vent opening.
coefficient of surface friction. Replace the plug. With the hydrostatic pump
cold, fill the expansion tank to the cold line.
6. Temperature. A hydrostatic unit with oil at Run the unit to see that it is operating properly.
room temperature will generally be more If not, check the vent plug again for more air
efficient (less leakage) than one that is and repeat the procedure.
running at normal operating temperatures.
6-2.2 Fluid Level. The transmission fluid level
6-2. MODEL 7 HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION. should be checked prior to initial use. The level
should not be above the COLD mark which is
6-2.1 Fluid Flow. about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the reservoir/
expansion tank. See Figure 6-4.
1. Fluid flows through an internal closed loop
between the pump and the motor. The flow is CAUTION
directed by the pump to the motor and then
back to the pump. Because of leakage, the Overfilling reduces the expansion area in the
amount of fluid driven back of the motor is reservoir/expansion tank and fluid will spill at
slightly less than that required by the pump. operating temperatures.
See Figure 6-2.

6-2
 6
6-2.3 Transmission Fluid. Check or add fluid to trans- 2. Unscrew the two screws holding the access
mission as follows: cover located in front of the seat.

1. Unscrew the parking brake and relief valve 3. Check the oil level in the reservoir/expansion
knobs. tank.

4. If it is necessary to add oil, remove the plastic

plug, unscrew the cap on the reservoir/expan-
sion tank and add oil through the hole with a
funnel. Do not overfill.

NOTE

The threads on the reservoir/expansion tank

are left-hand threads.

NOTE

If the improved cap and body are not on the

lawn tractor, order reservoir kit, part number
ET-990077-000. The kit will include the revised
cover, revised body and an O-ring. To prevent
moisture from mixing with the oil, order part
number ET-107068. This part is a bladder
which allows the oil to expand in the reservoir
while sealing it from the atmosphere. See Ser-
vice Bulletin R-228/YM-224.

6-2.4 Fluid Problems. Correct fluid problems as fol-

lows:

1. If frequent additions are required, locate the

leak and correct. Inadequate supply of fluid
may result in permanent internal damage.
6-3
 2. If contaminate is observed on the reservoir/ CAUTION
expansion tank screen, poor maintenance is
indicated. Remove the reservoir/expansion Do not use high pressure water spray or steam
tank, wash clean, dry and reinstall. If the to clean the hydrostatic transmission.
screen is pierced, the reservoir/expansion tank
should be replaced. 6-2.7 Fluid Conditions. For satisfactory operation,
the following fluid conditions apply:
3. If the natural color of the transmission fluid has
changed to black or milky, overheating and/or 1. Accurate level readings can be checked only
water contaminate is indicated. The fluid when the fluid is cold.
should be drained and replaced with new
transmission fluid. 2. If the natural color of the fluid has become
black or milky, it is possible that an overheating
NOTE or water contaminant problem exists.

The bladder prevents moisture from entering 3. Proper viscosity is essential. At normal operat-
the hydrostatic pump by expanding and main- ing temperatures, the optimum range is
taining pressure. Unless the unit is repaired or between 80° to 180° SUS (16-40 CS) and it
the oil somehow becomes contaminated, this should never fall below 60 SUS (10 CS).
unit does not require any oil change for the life
of the unit. 4. The fluid should be chemically stable, incorpo-
rating rust and oxidation inhibitors.
6-2.5 Changing Fluid. Change fluid as follows:
6-2.8 Recommended Fluids for Models 7 and 11
1. To drain the hydrostatic transmission, remove Pumps. The following fluids are recommended:
the hex plug on the bottom of the hydrostatic
transmission. 1. Mobil Fluid 300
2. Texaco TL-2209
2. To fill the hydrostatic transmission, remove the 3. Dextron B (General Motors)
vent plug located next to reservoir/expansion 4. M2C-33F and M2B-41A (Ford Motor)
tank to prevent an air lock. Fill transmission 5. Hy-Tran (International Harvester)
through reservoir until fluid overflows from vent 6. 10W + Straight Viscosity __SE, CC or CD
plug, and fill to cold mark on reservoir/expan- Rated Engine Oil
sion tank (fluid capacity 22 ounces). **7. 20W + Straight Viscosity __SE, CC or CD
Rated Engine Oil
6-2.6 Hydrostatic Transmission Cooling. The 8. 30W + Straight Viscosity __SE, CC or CD
hydrostatic transmission is cooled by the oil, Rated Engine Oil
fan and fins. Normal operating temperature is
180°F. If the hydrostatic transmission runs hot **Supplied in M-6 and M-7 assemblies shipped
check to see if the fan is in operating condition, from factory and preferred for applications
the oil level is correct and the fins are clean. using M-10 or M-11.

6-4
 6

6-5
 CAUTION 6-3.4 Typically a control lever, located on the top of
the left fender, is connected to this pump and
NEVER use a multiviscosity oil and ALWAYS controls both the speed and direction of the
use a nondetergent oil. tractor. A fail safe device is built into the tractor
providing a force in its control system that will
6-2.9 Troubleshooting. For troubleshooting Model 7 return the pintle shift lever to neutral position. A
hydrostatic transmission, see Table 10-1. fan, mounted on top of the mating transmission
input shaft cools the pump as air is dispersed
by blowing through the fins mounted on the
6-3. BDU-10S HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION. housing. See Figure 6-7.

6-3.1 The Sundstrand Pump, part number 717-0940

is the help mate to the transmission, part num-
ber 717-0950. It is designed to worldwide stan-
dards; compact with a low noise rating. It is
also highly efficient and meets the require-
ments of lawn and garden equipment.

6-3.2 The BDU-10S hydrostatic transmission draws

fluid from the transmission housing and reser-
voir. An inlet filter is incorporated into the unit
to insure that only clean fluid enters the sys-
tem. See Figure 6-6.

6-3.5 The hydrostatic transmission fluid is installed

at the factory and should not require changing
for the life of the unit. If transmission fluid is
needed, use only 10W30 engine oil rated SF or
CD.

NOTE

10-3.3 The combination of atmospheric pressure and For 1990 production Sundstrand BDU-10S
a partial vacuum on the low pressure side of hydrostatic units, the inlet filter access plug
the closed loop forces fluid to flow through the has been removed and blocked off. The only
filter and charge check valves. A charge pump way to change this filter is by splitting the hous-
is not used on the BDU-10S. ing halves. This should only be done if the fluid
becomes contaminated.

6-6
6-3.6 To check or add fluid to the transmission: 1. Ensure that the fluid level is visible in the
expansion tank. If fluid is not visible, add fluid
1. Unscrew the parking brake and relief valve to bring level to the LOWER mark of the
knobs. expansion tank. It may be necessary to tilt the
transmission and expel any air that may be
2. Unscrew the two screws holding the access trapped in the housing. Refill to the LOWER
cover located in front of the seat. mark of the expansion tank. Do not overfill.
See Figure 6-8 on page 6-9.
3. Check the fluid level in the expansion tank.
2. Raise and secure both rear wheels and run the
engine at low idle.
4. If it is necessary to add fluid, unscrew the cap
on the expansion tank. The cap has left-hand 3. With the bypass valve closed, cycle the pump
threads. Remove the rubber bladder. Add fluid, by slowly moving the shifter forward and
using a funnel, to bring level to LOWER mark reverse several times. As air is purged from the
of expansion tank. Do not overfill. See Figure system, the fluid level in the expansion tank
6-8. will drop, and air bubbles may appear in the
fluid. Stop the engine, and add fluid to bring
5. Reassemble parts. level to the LOWER mark of the expansion
tank. Do not overfill.
NOTE

The expansion tank has left-hand threads.

4. Open the bypass valve and cycle the pump
again with engine running at low idle. When
6
the air purges out of the pump, oil will take its
6-3.7 Fluid Problems. Correct fluid problems as fol- place. Stop the engine, and add fluid to bring
lows: level to the LOWER mark of the expansion
tank. Do not overfill.
1. If frequent additions are required, locate the
leak and correct. Inadequate supply of fluid 5. Check the reservoir periodically. If the fluid
may result in permanent internal damage. drops below the reservoir, air will recycle in the
pump.
2. If the natural color of the transmission fluid has
changed, black or milky, overheating and/or 6. Repeat the procedures until all air is purged.
water contaminate is indicated. The fluid The air vents through the reservoir cap.
should be drained and replaced with new
transmission fluid.
CAUTION
NOTE
If the gas tank has been removed or changed,
The bladder in the reservoir prevents moisture the mounting strap can be put on backward,
from entering the hydrostatic pump by expand- causing the tank to tilt down into the fan.
ing and maintaining pressure. Newer models have a smaller gas tank and
smaller diameter fan installed. If you replace
3. If fluid contains air bubbles, it is critical that the the old gas tank with the newer tank, the gas
air be purged from the system. Resulting gauge also will have to be replaced with an 11
symptoms include: noisier operation, lack of inch gas gauge, part number 751-0226.
power after short term of operation, high oper-
ating temperature, or excessive fluid expan- 6-3.10 Fluid Level.The transmission fluid level should
sion. be checked prior to initial use. The level should
not be above the LOWER mark which is about
6-3.8 Changing Transmission Fluid. To drain the 1/4 inch from the bottom of the expansion tank.
hydrostatic transmission, remove the hex plug Overfilling reduces the expansion area in the
on the bottom of the hydrostatic transmission. expansion tank and fluid will spill at operating
temperatures. See Figure 6-8 on page 6-9.
6-3.9 Purging the Sundstrand Pump. Purge the
pump as follows:

6-7
6-3.11 Expolded view of Sundstrand BDU-10S Transmission (Part Number 717-0940). See Figure 6-9.

6-8
1. Oil tank disassembly.

a. Unscrew the cap. (This cap has a left-hand 2. Center section disassembly.
thread.) See Figure 6-10. 6

a. Remove the allen head screws. See Fig-

ure 6-12.

b. Unscrew oil tank. See Figure 6-11. b. Lift the center section off the transmission.
Take care not to damage the surface of the
center section and cylinder blocks. See
Figure 6-13.

6-9
 3. Cylinder block kit and thrust ball bearing disas-
sembly. See Figure 6-16.
c. Remove the gasket. See Figure 6-14.
a. Lay the housing on its side.

d. Remove locating pins. See Figure 6-15.

b. Slide out cylinder block kits (pump motor).

The motor shaft will slide out with the cylin-
der block kit. Take care not to damage the
sur-face of cylinder blocks. See Figure 6-
17.

6-10
 c. Remove the thrust ball bearings. See Fig-
b. Remove the swashplate from the housing.
ure 6-18.
6
See Figure 6-20.

4. Swashplate and filter disassembly.

a. Remove the spring and washer. See Fig- c. Remove the thrust plate and thrust roller
ure 6-19. from the swashplate. See Figure 6-21.

6-11
d. Remove the slot guide and cradle bear-
ings. See Figure 6-22.
5. Pump shaft and trunnion arm disassembly.

a. Remove retaining ring. See Figure 6-24.

b. Puncture oil seal and pry it out with screw-

driver. Take care not to damage the shaft
and housing. See Figure 6-25.

e. Remove the filter, washer and spring. See

Figure 6-23.

6-12
 e. Remove trunnion arm. See Figure 6-28.

c. Remove spacer. See Figure 6-26.

6

f. Pry oil seal out with screwdriver. Take care

not to damage the housing. See Figure 6-
29.
d. Tap the end of the pump shaft with a soft
hammer lightly to slide it out from the hous-
ing. See Figure 6-27.

6-13
 b. Remove spring and check valve (ball) from
bore in center section. In removing check
g. Press out journal bearing with soft ham- valve (ball), care should be taken that it
mer. See Figure 6-30. does not fall into the closed loop passage.
See Figure 6-32.

c. Remove balls and springs from both sides.

6. Check valve disassembly. See Figure 6-33.
a. Remove plug. See Figure 6-31.

6-14
7. Bypass valve disassembly.
8. Oil seal (center section) removal. Pry oil seal
out with screwdriver. Take care not to damage
6
a. Remove plug and bypass spool. See Fig-
ure 6-34. center section. See Figure 6-36.

b. Remove spring from center section. See

Figure 6-35.
9. Press out needle bearing. See Figure 6-37.

6-15
6-3.12 Assembly of Sundstrand BDU-10S.

b. Install trunnion arm. See Figure 6-39.

CAUTION
c. Pump shaft inspection.
Cleanliness is the primary means of insuring
satisfactory transmission life. Take care to (1 Check seal surface, bearing surface,
clean parts when assembling them. Pay atten- spline and bearing for damage (pump,
tion to protect each part, especially all exposed motor). See Figure 6-40.
sealing surfaces, from damage.
d. Press shaft into the housing. See Figure 6-
1. Trunnion arm assembly. 41.

a. Press journal bearing into the housing. e. Place spacer on bearing. See Figure 6-42.
See Figure 6-38.

6-16
 f. Coat new oil seal lip with grease. See Fig-
ure 10-43. 6

g. Cover pump shaft with thin tape to protect

oil seal lip. See Figure 10-44.

6-17
h. Press seal into housing bore. See Figure 2. Swashplate and filter assembly.
6-45.
a. Check filter. Replace spring, washer and
filter. See Figure 6-47.

i. Install retaining ring in groove in housing.

See Figure 6-46.
b. Slide slot guide on trunnion arm. See Fig-
ure 6-48.

6-18
 b. Place washer and spring on swashplate.
See Figure 6-51.

c. Place swashplate into housing keeping 6

slot guide from moving with screwdriver.
See Figure 6-49.

c. Replace thrust ball bearing (motor). See

Figure 6-52.

4. Cylinder block kit inspection.

3. Thrust plate, roller and bearing assembly. a. Check cylinder blocks and pistons for
scratches and wear. See Figure 6-53.
a. Place thrust plate and thrust roller into When the surface of cylinder block is worn
swash plate. See Figure 6-50. down more than .01 mm, replace cylinder
block kit with new one (pump, motor).

6-19
 c. Lay housing on its side and slide cylinder
block kits into housing (pump, motor). See
Figure 6-55.

d. Check cylinder block kits for free rotation.

See Figure 6-56.

b. Check to be sure pistons are free in bores

(pump, motor). See Figure 6-54. Figure 6-
50. Installing Thrust Plate and Thrust
Roller

e. Check piston springs for correct place-

ment. If they are out of place, correct
placement with small screwdriver. See Fig-
ure 6-57.

6-20
5. Center section inspection.
c. Lubricate exposed face of cylinder block
a. Examine wear surface of center section for with clean hydraulic oil. See Figure 6-60.
Check locating pins (2 places) to place in
6
excessive scratching or heavy wear pat-
terns. When surface of center section is the housing.
worn down more than .01 mm, replace
center section with new one. See Figure 6-
58.

d. Place a new gasket on housing. See Fig-

ure 6-61.
b. Press needle bearing into center section.
See Figure 6-59.

6-21
e. Place center section onto housing. Take
care not to damage center section and
housing. See Figure 6-62.
NOTE

Longer screws are inserted in outer bores of

center section.

g. Tighten these screws equally and pull two

sections (housing and center section)
together completely. Apply 120-180 in-lbs
(10-15 ft-lbs) torque.

h. Coat new oil seal lip with grease. See Fig-

ure 6-64.

f. Insert eight allen head screws. See Figure

6-63.

i. Cover shaft with thin tape to protect oil seal

lip. See Figure 6-65.

6-22
 b. Cover trunnion arm with thin tape to pro-
tect oil seal lip. See Figure 6-68.
j. Press seal into center section. See Figure
6-66.
6

c. Press seal into housing. See Figure 6-69.

7. Check valve installation.

6. Trunnion arm seal installation. a. Lay the transmission on its side. See Fig-
ure 6-70.
a. Coat new oil seal lip with grease. See Fig-
ure 6-67. b. Install ball, spring and plug. See Figure 6-
71.

6-23
 c. Tighten plug. See Figure 6-72.

8 Bypass valve installation.

a. Replace O-ring if necessary. See Figure 6-

73.

b. Install spring, bypass spool and plug in

that order. See Figure 6-74.

6-24
 b. Screw cap onto the housing. (This cap has
a left-hand thread.) See Figure 6-77. 6

c. Tighten plug. See Figure 6-75.

6-4. MODEL 310-0500/0750 INTEGRATED

HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION.

9. Oil tank assembly installation. 6-4.1 General Description. A transaxle normally will
not require servicing during the life of the vehi-
a. Screw oil tank onto the housing. See Fig- cle in which it is installed. Should servicing be
ure 6-76. required, the unit must be removed from its
installed location and thoroughly cleaned
before beginning most procedures.

1. The Integrated Hydrostatic Transaxle (IHT) is a

self-contained unit designed for the transfer
and control of power. It provides an infinitely
variable speed range between zero and maxi-

6-25
 mum in both forward and reverse modes of 6-5. MODEL 11 HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION.
operation.
6-5.1 The following paragraphs contain information
2. The IHT uses a variable pump with a maximum necessary for the disassembly, repair and
displacement of 10cc per revolution, and a reassembly of the Eaton hydrostatic transmis-
motor with a fixed displacement of 21cc per sion, Model 11. Some procedures may not be
revolution. The variable displacement pump necessary due to application. This information
features a cradle swashplate with a direct-pro- is provided courtesy of Eaton Fluid Power
portional displacement control. Reversing the Products, Hydraulic Division. See Figure 6-78.
direction of tilt of the swashplate reverses the
flow of oil from the pump to the motor and thus
reverses the direction of the motor output rota-
tion. The fixed displacement motor uses a fixed
swashplate. The pump and motor are of the
axial piston design, and both utilize spherical
nosed pistons which are held against a thrust
race by internal compression springs.

3. The IHT has a self-contained fluid supply and

an integral filter. The fluid is forced through the
filter by a positive “head” on the fluid in the
housing/reservoir with an assist by the nega-
tive pressure created in the pump pistons as
they operate.

4. Charge check valves in the center section are

used to control the makeup flow of fluid to the
low pressure side of the loop.

5. The IHT is filled and tested at the factory and

should not require fluid or filter changes unless
the fluid becomes contaminated.

6. A cam style, block lifting bypass is utilized in

the IHT to permit moving the vehicle for short
distances at a maximum of 2 mph without
starting the engine.

WARNING

Actuating the bypass will result in the loss of

hydrostatic braking capacity. The machine
must be stationary and on a level surface and 6-5.2 Fluid Flow.
in neutral when actuating the bypass.
1 . The motor is driven by fluid directed through a
7. The IHT includes an integral differential which closed loop system by the hydraulic pump.
utilizes heavy duty heat treated bevel gears. Speed control is achieved by changing the
amount of oil delivered by the variable dis-
8. A “cam” style arm is utilized to actuate an in placement pump to the fixed displacement
line floating multi disc parking brake. The brake motor by rotating the control shaft. Because of
discs are enclosed in a cavity that is sealed leakage, the amount of fluid driven back by the
from the oil supply. motor is slightly less than that required by the
pump. Check valves on the inlet side of the
pump are open to charge pump flow, enabling
the pump to receive fluid as needed to make
up for leakage. See Figure 6-79.

6-26
 6

NOTE e. A charged pump option is available with a

ball bearing input which is recommended
The Eaton Model 11 is a self-purging pump. for overhung loads such as couplings, pul-
leys, etc.
2. The charge pump draws oil from the reservoir
or the final drive housing when the final drive 3. The acceleration valves are open in neutral
and transmission use a common fluid. The position. The valve in the side of the circuit
charge pump performs five functions: being used closes gradually as the pressure
increases, cushioning load acceleration. On
a. Maintains pressure (30-50 PSI) on the low deceleration, when pressure is decreased
pressure side of the circuit to supercharge below a certain point the valve opens, by pass-
the variable displacement pump. ing the pump flow and allowing the output shaft
to coast to a stop.
b. Supplies oil lost due to internal leakage to
the circuit. 4. An external filter, customer supplied, is also
required and should be the last component in
c. Provides a means of moving the hydraulic the charge pump discharge line before the
fluid through a cooler when needed to transmission. It should have a rating of 10
maintain fluid temperature less than 180°F. microns or less and be filtering up to 4-1/2
GPM.
d. Provides a source of auxiliary hydraulic
power for secondary operations such as a 5. The filtered fluid then flows into the transmis-
hydraulic motor or cylinder used to power sion, past one of the check valves and into the
attachments on vehicles. (If a cylinder is low pressure circuit. Excess oil not needed for
used, be sure it is a double acting type.) the system makeup is relieved into the trans-

6-27
 mission case past the low pressure relief 1. Model number
valve.
2. Date code
6. In the auxiliary circuit the fluid flows from the
charge pump to a valve. This valve is an open 3. Part number
center type and has an internal pressure relief
valve set at no more than (800 PSI). At this 4. Part name
pressure, the flow will be approximately 1.5
GPM with an input speed of 3600 RPM. 5. Quantity of parts

7. Proper cooling is essential to both perfor-

mance and life of the transmission. The recom-
mended maximum oil operation temperature is
180°F. Cooling is dependent upon the fan and
cast fins in the aluminum cover.

8. On transmissions that incorporate sealed out-

put shaft bearings, fill through the reservoir to
the manufacturer’s specified fluid level. Start
the engine and run the transmission in both
directions at low engine speed for a short time
to purge trapped air from the system. Stop,
shut off engine and recheck fluid level. The
transmission is now ready for use.

6-5.3 Special tools to aid in disassembly/reassembly.

1. 2 x 6 x 10 inch wooden block with 3/4 inch

diameter hole in the center

2. 2 large, wide rubber bands

3. 5/16-18 tap

4. 3/16 inch diameter rod—10 to 12 inches long NOTE

5. Two-jaw bearing puller, modified slightly if nec- Refer to specific listing covering your Eaton
essary to fit notches in charge pump with ball transmission. Parts listings are available from
bearing the Hydraulics Division, Minneapolis Plant.

6. Light petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) 6-5.5 Disassembly of Model 11 transmission. See
Figure 6-81.
7. Steel bar stock or piece of wood—2 inches
diameter x 2-1/2 inches long.
Legend for Figure 6-81
6-5.4 Product identification and ordering informa-
tion. See Figure 6-80. When ordering parts, 1. Socket Head Cap Screw
please include the following: 2. Socket Head Cap Screw
3 Oil Seal

6-28
 6

6-29
Legend For Figure 6-81. 29. Cam Ring Insert
30. Coil Pin (5/16 Dia. x 3/84" Lg)
1. Socket Head Cap Screw 31. Pintle
2. Socket Head Cap Screw 32. Retaining Ring
3. Oil Seal 33. Check Valve Body
4. Charge Pump Body 34. Check Valve Ball (5/16 Dia.)
5. Square Cut Seal Ring 35. Check Valve Ball (7/16 Dia.)
6. Roll 36. Relief Valve Plug
7. Carrier 37. Relief Valve Spring
8. Pump Plate 38. Acceleration Valve Ball
9. Port Plate 39. Acceleration Valve Body
10. Square Cut Seal Ring 40. Acceleration Valve Spring (lower)
11. Shield 41. Acceleration Valve Spring (upper)
12. Snap Ring 42. Dowel Pin
13. Retaining Ring 43. Dampening Piston
14. Snap Ring 44. Backup Ring
15. Bearing (Input) 45. O-Ring
16. Cover 46. Motor Rotor and Ball Assembly
17. Button 47. Output Shaft
18. Pivot Pin Dowel 48. Motor Race
19. Drive Pin 49. Hex Head Plug
20. Dowel (7/16 Dia. x 2" Lg) 50. Plug Tube Fitting O-Ring
21. Input Shaft 51. Body
22. Oil Seal 52. Oil Seal
23. Control Shaft 53. Sealed Bearing (output)
24. Control Shaft Washer 54. Flow Through Bearing (output)
25. Square Cut Seal Ring 55. Socket Head Cap Screw
26. Pump Rotor and Ball Assembly 56. Retaining Ring
27. Pump Race
28. Cam Ring NOTE

NOTE A 2 x 6 x 10 inch wooden block with a 3/4 inch

hole in the center is recommended for a suit-
The parts list is for identification of parts only. able bench fixture.
To insure the correct replacement parts for
your transmission, it will be necessary to order 1. Use a 1/4 inch allen wrench to remove the two
the replacement parts by part number. For part socket head cap screws and separate the
numbers, consult your supplier for a parts list body from the cover. If the cover does not sep-
for your specific model number. arate easily from the body because of fluid
seal, tap the body and/or cover with plastic
CAUTION hammer to break the seal. See Figure 10-82.

Clean the transmission exterior thoroughly CAUTION

before repairs are begun. Use a cleaning solu-
tion that will not affect paint, gaskets, rubber The motor ball piston assembly must remain
seals and plastic. If compressed air is used DO intact as the ball pistons are matched to the
NOT expose lip seals of bearing surfaces to motor rotor. A large rubber band may be used
high pressure. to retain the ball pistons in place during han-
dling.

6-30
 6
2. Remove the bearing retaining ring and tap or
press the output shaft inward. Drive or press
the output bearing out from the motor body.
Two types of output shaft bearings are used on
Eaton light-duty transmissions—flow through
or sealed. Sealed bearings have an oil seal
located under the bearing. If your transmission
has a seal, remove it by driving or pressing it
out from the motor body. See Figure 6-83.

3. Inspect the contact line of the motor ball pis-

tons on the motor race located in body. This
contact area must be smooth and completely
free of any irregularities if any irregularities are
noted, replace the motor race. See Figure 6-
84.

NOTE

If irregularities are noted in the motor race, it is

reasonable to assume that one or more ball
pistons and rotor bores will also be damaged.

4. Hold the pintle assembly in position against the

cover and remove the motor rotor assembly
intact. See Figure 6-85.

6-31
 plastic hammer so as not to damage aluminum
cover. Lift the pintle assembly out. See Figure
6-87.

NOTE

Each ball must be replaced in the same bore

from which it was removed. Use a suitable NOTE
container for piston ball storage such as an
egg carton or ice cube tray. We do not recommend complete disassembly
of the pintle assembly for cleaning. Normal
5. Inspect the rotor assembly. Remove the piston flushing should be all that is required. How-
balls from the rotor one at a time by working ever, if complete disassembly is required, use
clockwise from the letter stamped in the face of the following procedures.
the rotor. Place balls in a prepared container.
See Figure 6-86. 10. Disassemble pintle assembly as follows:

NOTE

DO NOT remove the two large plugs located

on the pintle journal. See Figure 6-88.

6. Inspect the piston balls. They must be smooth

and completely free of any irregularities.

7. Inspect rotor bores, bushings and pintle jour-

nals for irregularities or excessive clearance.
The ball piston to rotor bore clearance is select
fit electronically to .0002 to .0006 of an inch.
When irregularities or excessive clearance are
noted, replace the complete rotor assembly.

8. Install motor ball pistons in their matching a. Using a 1/4 inch allen wrench, remove
bores. Hold them in place with a rubber band. relief valve plug. Remove ball and spring.
See Figure 6-89.
9. Hold the pump assembly in the bottom position
and tap lightly on the cover. Use a wood or
6-32
 e. Install new backup rings nearest to the
smooth piston face and O-rings in groove
on a new piston.
b. Inspect for any irregularities. Replace any
f. Lubricate outer surface of pistons and
defective parts.
press (smooth face up) into bores of pintle
to the bottom position.
c. Reinstall ball, spring and plug into pintle.
Do not tighten.
g. To remove check valves, press or drive out

6
the coil pin. See Figure 6-92.
NOTE

Remove dampening pistons only if the sur-

faces are scored.

CAUTION

When dislodging dampening pistons, do not hit

pintle journals or the pintle housing will be
ruined.

d. To remove pistons, firmly tap the outside

edge of pintle on a work surface. Remove
backup ring and O-ring from pistons. See
Figure 6-90.

NOTE

Removal of check valves is not necessary if

check valve balls move freely and seat prop-
erly.

h. Using a four blade 5/16-18 tap, tap holes

in the check valve bodies. Insert a long
bolt or a puller to remove them from the
NOTE pintle housing and discard. See Figure 6-
93.
If tapping of pintle does not dislodge the pis-
tons, use adhesive to cement a bolt or similar
object to the pistons and pull them from the
bore. See Figure 6-91.

6-33
i. Remove check balls and retaining rings.
See Figure 6-92.

NOTE

On units with acceleration valves, see steps for

n. Insert 3/16 inch diameter rod through the
check valve removal.
check valve body. Tap the rod against the
check valve ball to dislodge the retaining
j. Inspect check valve balls and retaining
rings. Repeat for the second check valve
rings. Replace any defective parts.
ball and ring. Shake dislodged rings and
balls out the large port area of pintle jour-
k. Install retaining rings and check valve balls
nal. See Figure 6-95.
in bores of pintle. Press new check valve
bodies in bores. Press far enough in for
coil pin clearance.

CAUTION

To prevent dislodging of retaining rings, do not

drive check valve bodies into bores.

l. Press coil pin into pintle until flush with or

slightly below surface.

NOTE

Not all models have acceleration valves. If

your model has them they are located directly
opposite the check valves. o. Insert the rod through the check valve
body against the acceleration valve body,
m. To remove the acceleration valves, start by and drive both the valve body and ball out
removing the solid pin from the pintle of the bore. Repeat method for second
housing. See Figure 6-94. valve body and ball. Remove springs. See
Figure 6-96.

6-34
 acceleration valve bodies slide freely in the
bores and that the orifices are clear.

s. Press the two balls against the accelera-

tion valve bodies until the solid pin will
clear. Press or drive the solid pin in so it is
flush with or slightly below the pintle sur-
face.

t. Install new check valve retaining rings and

balls in pintle bores.

u. Press new check valve bodies into bores

until coil pin will clear.

CAUTION
NOTE
Use a press to install check valve bodies. Driv-
Some models use different springs for forward ing them into position may dislodge the retain-
and reverse. Be sure to identify the springs ing rings.
with the acceleration valve so they can be
replaced in the same bore from which they
were removed.
v. Press or drive the coil pin in flush with or
slightly below pintle surface.
6
p. Press or drive coil pins from pintle housing. 11. Remove seal from cover, lift pump rotor
See Figure 6-94. Replace the ball through assembly intact from the cover assembly. See
the port into the check valve body. Place 3/ Figure 6-98.
16 inch diameter rod through the accelera-
tion valve body against the check valve
ball and drive check valve body and ball
from the pintle housing. Repeat this
method for the second check valve body.
See Figure 6-97.

q. Clean all parts thoroughly. Inspect parts for

defects. Replace all defective parts, includ-
ing retaining rings which were damaged
when driven out of their seats.
CAUTION
r. Install acceleration valve springs and
acceleration valves. Be sure that both Use a wide rubber band to retain the ball pis-
tons in place during handling. The pump ball

6-35
 piston assembly must remain intact as the ball
pistons are matched to the pump rotor.

NOTE

If complete disassembly, inspection and reas-

sembly of pump rotor is necessary. Follow
same procedures as for motor rotor, paragraph
6-5.5, steps 5 through 7.

12. Slide the cam ring from the pivot pin and con-
trol shaft in the cover. Lift ring from the cover
and remove the control shaft insert. See Figure
6-99.

14. Remove the two buttons from the cover. See

Figure 6-99.

15. Remove charge pump with bushing, disassem-

ble and inspect as follows:

NOTE

For charge pump with ball bearing, refer to

step 16 of this paragraph.

a. Before removing the charge pump polish

the input shaft to remove paint, burrs,
nicks, etc.

b. Remove the shield and using a 1/4 inch

allen wrench remove the five socket head
cap screws. Carefully remove the charge
pump. See Figure 6-101.
NOTE

The pump race is press fit in the cam ring and

will require a press to remove it. The cam ring
and pump race are available as an assembly.

13. Inspect area where the ball pistons contact the

race. This area must be smooth and com-
pletely free of irregularities. If it is not, replace
the pump race. See Figure 6-100.

c. Remove the square cut seal from the

charge pump housing. See Figure 6-102.

6-36
 CAUTION

Do not mark the roll carrier in such a manner

that would damage the carrier surface.

f. Mark the top of carrier indicating which

side is up.

g. Remove the carrier, carrier drive pin, lower

snap ring and pump plate. See Figure 6-
104.

h. Inspect the input shaft bushing, carrier,

CAUTION rolls and inner race contact areas in the
charge pump. If any irregularities are
Be careful not to damage the input shaft bush- found, replace the complete pump assem-
ing when removing the oil seal. bly.

d. Press or drive the oil seal from the charge i. Remove square cut seal from cover.
pump. See Figure 6-103.
16. Remove charge pump with ball bearing, disas-
semble and inspect as follows:
6
a. Remove the pump retaining and shaft
retaining ring. See Figure 6-105.

e. Remove the six carrier rolls and top snap

ring from the input shaft. See Figure 6-104.

b. Using a 1/4 inch allen wrench remove the

five cap screws.

c. Use a modified 2-jaw bearing puller pull-

ing against the two notches machined
into the housing. Remove the charge
pump assembly. See Figures 6-106 and
6-107.

6-37
 f. Remove the six carrier rolls and top snap
ring from the input shaft. See Figure 6-109.

CAUTION

Do not pound on the bearing puller while

removing the charge pump body. Apply a
steady pull only, do not damage the bore for
g. Mark the top of carrier indicating which
the input shaft during removal of charge pump.
side is up.
d. Remove the square cut seal from the
pump assembly.
CAUTION
e. Remove the bearing and the oil seal from
Do not mark the roll carrier in a way that would
the charge pump. Discard the oil seal.
damage the carrier surface.
See Figure 6-108.
h. Remove the carrier, carrier drive pin, lower
snap ring and pump plate. See Figure 6-
109.

i. Remove square cut seal from cover and

discard.

j. Inspect the ball bearing. If any irregularities

are present, replace the bearing.

6-38
 k. Inspect the carrier, rolls, inner race contact e. Use a sharp, narrow edged tool to pierce
areas in the charge pump housing and the top metal part of the oil seal. Remove
pump plate. If any irregularities are found, seal from the cover. See Figure 6-111.
replace the complete charge pump assem-
bly.

17. Disassemble cover assembly as follows:

a. Reposition cover assembly as shown and

remove the input shaft. See Figure 6-110.

f. In most cases, it will not be necessary to

remove the control shaft from the cover. If
the dowel is loose or broken in the control
shaft, remove the shaft using the following 6
procedures:

(1) Measure the distance between the center

of the dowel pin and the end of the control
shaft. See Figure 6-112.

CAUTION

Be careful not to damage the input shaft buy-

ing in the cover.

b. Inspect input shaft for stripped keyways or

other irregularities. If found, replace the
input shaft.

c. Inspect bushing located in face of cover. If

found to be broken or having any other
irregularities, replace cover.
(2) Turn cover over. Use dimension obtained
d. Inspect cover assembly, especially around in step (1) to locate dowel pin in cover
the control shaft area. Replace the cover face. Drill 11/32 inch diameter access hole
assembly if it is broken, cracked or if side at center point of dowel pin. Drill hole
clearance between control shaft and cover exactly in line with center of shaft. See Fig-
exceeds .006 inch. ure 6-113.

CAUTION

Do not scratch the control shaft or distort the

seal counterbore when removing seal.

6-39
 2. Press new dowel pin through the shaft leaving
1-1/4 inch of dowel extending from control
shaft. See Figure 6-116.

(3) Press out damaged dowel pin through

access hole, and remove control shaft and
washer.

(4) Tap hole drilled in step (2) with a 1/8 inch CAUTION
pipe tap and install a flush type pipe plug.
See Figure 6-114. Be careful not to damage the inner portion of
the oil seal. Excessive pressing or driving of
the oil seal will damage the rubber portion of
the oil seal.

3. Lubricate ID of new oil seal with clean lubri-

cant. Press or tap seal in bore until completely
seated. See Figure 6-117.

10-5.6 Assembly of Model 11 transmission.

1. Install new control shaft and washer in cover.

See Figure 6-115.

4. Install input shaft in cover. See Figure 10-118.

5. Turn cover over. Support input shaft from

underneath. Use a piece of steel bar stock or
hard wood — 2 inches in diameter by at least
2-1/2 inches long to keep the shaft cross pin
against the cover. See Figure 6-119.

6-40
 6. Lightly lubricate new square cut seal and
install in seal groove in cover. See Figure 6-
120.

NOTE
6
Stamping on cover indicates if charge pump
rotation is clockwise or counterclockwise.

7. Install pump plate or port plate on cover. Either

side of the pump plate may face the cover
regardless of input rotation. However, the port
plate must be installed per specific input rota-
tion.

8. For counterclockwise (CCW) rotation, the letter

A must be up facing the charge pump. For
clockwise (CW) rotation, the letter A must face
down toward the cover. See Figure 6-121.

6-41
9. For charge pumps with bushings, install snap
ring in lower groove (against plate) of input
shaft. See Figure 6-122.

NOTE

For correct carrier rotation the leading edge of

carrier must rotate in the same direction as the
input shaft. See Figure 6-124.
10. Lubricate carrier drive pin and install in keyway
of input shaft. Use a small amount of petro-
leum jelly or equivalent to hold pin in place.
See Figure 6-123.

6-42
11. Install carrier over input shaft with side marked
up facing up. Be sure keyway in carrier fits
over carrier drive pin in input shaft. See Figure
6-125.

CAUTION

Excessive pressing or force on oil seal may 6

cause damage to rubber sealing portion or
may distort counterbore of housing.

14. Lubricate inner surface of new oil seal and

install in charge pump housing with the rubber
lip toward the bore. Make sure seal is com-
pletely seated. See Figure 6-127.

12. Lightly lubricate and install the six carrier rolls

in carrier. Use a small amount of petroleum
jelly or equivalent to hold the rolls in place. See
Figure 6-124.

13. On charge pumps with bushings, install the

snap ring in the upper groove of the input shaft
(against carrier). See Figure 6-126.

15. Lightly lubricate new square cut seal with

petroleum jelly and install in seal groove of
pump housing. See Figure 6-128.

6-43
 18. On charge pumps with ball bearings, install the
lower snap ring. With the cover assembly sep-
arated from the body and the input shaft prop-
erly supported, press the input shaft bearing
into position against the lower snap ring. Install
the upper snap ring against the inner bearing
race. See Figure 6-130.

NOTE

If an elbow fitting is used in the pump inlet, it

must be installed before mounting charge
pump.

16. Align charge pump dowel pins with holes in

cover. Protect oil seal lip from keyways, snap
ring grooves and shaft splines. Guide pump
over shaft, carrier and rolls until pins engage
holes. See Figure 6-129.

CAUTION
19. On charge pumps with ball bearings, install the
Install 1-3/4 inch screws in thicker section of large retaining ring. See Figure 6-131.
charge pump body. If installed and tightened in
any of the other four holes, internal damage
could occur.

20. Install protective shield on housing.

21. Install two buttons in cover. See Figure 6-132.

17. Install 4 screws (5/16 x 1-1/4 inch) and one

screw (5/16 x 1-3/4 inch) in pump housing.
Torque to 15 ft-lbs.

6-44
 NOTE

Keep rotor assembly intact with wide rubber

band. Remove rubber band after installing
rotor assembly in cover assembly.
24. Install pump rotor by aligning the slot in the
pump rotor with the input shaft cross pin. See
Figure 6-133.

22. Install cam ring insert with the hole away from 6
the cam ring.

23. With the flush side of the bearing race facing

the cover, align the cam ring with the control
shaft dowel pin and cam ring pivot pin. Press
firmly until the cam ring has bottomed into the
CAUTION
cover assembly.
Do not force pintle over rotor assembly. It is a
NOTE
slip fit and the pintle must turn freely by hand. If
it does not, recheck the pintle installation.
Cam ring must move freely from stop to stop. If
binding occurs at either stop rotate the cam
NOTE
ring insert 180 degrees. Check the cam ring
movement again.
To determine pintle rotation, place a small ruler
or straight edge in the porting slot.

25. Install the pintle by aligning the dowel pin hole

in the pintle assembly with the cam ring pivot
pin. Install over pump rotor assembly. See Fig-
ure 6-134.

6-45
26. Lightly grease a new square cut seal and
install it in the groove in the housing. See Fig-
ure 6-135.

27. Install motor rotor assembly onto pintle.

NOTE

Transmissions with sealed bearings incorpo-

rate an oil seal under the output bearing.

CAUTION

Do not over press or drive the oil seal. This

may damage the rubber sealing portion of the
oil seal.

28. When applicable, install oil seal in body with

the rubber lip toward the counterbore in the
body. Press or tap the seal into the bottom
position in the counterbore. See Figure 6-136.

6-46
 6

29. Install the output bearing by positioning bear- for a short time to purge trapped air from
ing on the body and pressing on the outer the system. Stop, shut off engine and
bearing race to the bottom position in the body. recheck fluid level. The transmission is
Install the bearing retaining ring. now ready for use.

30 Install the body by aligning the output shaft

with the bearing located in pintle and shaft
cross pin with the slot in the motor rotor
assembly. Install two 5/16 x 1-1/4 socket head
cap screws. Torque to 15 ft-lbs. See Figure 6-
137.

CAUTION

Be sure the output shaft rotates freely by hand.

If it does not, recheck body installation.

31. Fill with transmission fluid.

a. On transmission that incorporates flow

through output bearing, fill through the axle
to the manufacturer’s specified fluid level.

b. On transmissions that incorporate sealed

output shaft bearing, fill through the reser-
voir to the manufacturer’s specified fluid
level. Start engine and run the transmis-
sion in both directions at low engine speed

6-47
 Hydrostatic Transmission Removal and Installation
1. Raise the rear wheels off the ground 15. Roll the “V” belt off of the hydrostatic drive pul-
ley.
2. Support the bottom of the hydrostatic transmis-
sion. 16. Remove the self tapping screw securing the
ground wire to the neutral return plate using a
3. Remove the center hub caps 3/8 socket.

4. Remove the lug nuts securing the rear wheel 17. Remove the hairpin securing the hydrostatic
assemblies to the rear axle hubs using a 3/4" foot control rod ferrule and reverse safety
socket and extension. bracket to the neutral return plate.

5. Remove the rear wheel assemblies. NOTE

6. Raise the seat. Make certain the small extension spring is

properly installed during reinstallation. See fig-
7. Remove the battery cables from the battery ure 6-139 and 6-140.
terminals using a 7/16 wrench.

8. Remove the battery and battery tray from the

tractor.

9. Remove all three self tapping screws securing

the hydrostatic fan to the hydrostatic drive pul-
ley using a 5/16 socket. See figure 6-138.

10. Remove the hydrostatic fan.

11. Coming in from below the left foot board,

locate the stationary “V” idler.

12. Grasp the left frame rail and “V” belt on both
sides of the “V” idler.

13. Squeeze both hands and release the “V” belt

from the “V” idler.
18. Set the reverse safety bracket aside.
14. Release the “V” belt slowly.

6-48
19. Remove the hairpin securing the hydrostatic
relief lever to the hydrostatic transmission. See
figures 6-141 and 6-142.

20. Set the hydrostatic relief lever aside. See fig-

ures 6-141 and 6-142.

22. Remove both self tapping screws securing the

front of the hydrostatic transmission to the front
hydrostatic support bracket using 1/2" socket.
See figure 6-144.

23. Secure the front of the hydrostatic transmis-

sion to make certain it does not tip forward dur-
21. Snip the zip tie that secures the hydrostatic ing lowering.
vent tube to the frame. See figure 6-143.
24. Remove all four of the hex bolts and lock nuts
NOTE securing the hydrostatic transmission to the
side transmission support brackets using a 1/
Make certain the hydrostatic vent tube is zip 2" socket and a 1/2" wrench. See figure 6-145..
tied back into place during reinstallation. See
figure 6-143.

6-49
 27. Slowly lower the hydrostatic transmission from
the tractor. See figure 6-147.

25. Remove the brake extension spring from the

brake rod using a pair of vice grips.

NOTE REINSTALL THE HYDROSTATIC IN THE

REVERSE ORDER ABOVE.
The hydrostatic transmission can be tilted to
assist brake spring removal. See figure 6-146.

26. Secure the tractor frame.

6-50
6-6. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT 700 AND 800 5. Tighten lock nut.
SERIES HYDROSTATIC.
6-8. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT 800 SERIES TRAN-
6-6.1 The brake is located inside the frame next to SAXLE.
the right rear wheel.
6-8.1 The brake is located on the left side of the tran-
6-6.2 To adjust the brake, remove the cotter pin. saxle.
Adjust the castle nut so the brake starts to
engage when the brake lever is 1/4 to 5/16 6-8.2 To adjust the brake, remove the cotter pin.
inch away from the axle housing. See Figure 6- Adjust the castle nut so the brake starts to
148. engage when the brake lever is 1/4 to 5/16
inch away from the axle housing. See Figure 6-
150.

6-7. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT 800 SERIES.

6-7.1 Adjust brake as follows:

1. Loosen lock nut. See Figure 6-149..

6-9. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT 900 SERIES TRAN-

SAXLE.

6-9.1 The brake is located on the left side of the tran-

saxle. The adjustment access hole is above
the left rear axle mounting bracket.

6-9.2 Adjust brake as follows:

1. Loosen lock nut with an 11/16 inch wrench.

2. With a 7/16 inch socket and extension, tighten

center bolt until the pads are pushed against
brake disc.

3. Back off center bolt one half turn and tighten

2. Tighten center bolt all the way in. lock nut.

3. Unscrew center bolt one complete turn. 4. Test the brake operation.

4. Test brakes and repeat step 3 if necessary.

6-51
 BRAKE ADJUSTMENT 4. If the measurement is not 1/4" shorter then the
first measurement, tighten the hex jam nut until
1998 800 Series Hydrostatic (See figure 6- you have a 1/4" difference in the two measure-
151) ments. See figure 6-151.
The brake is located by the right rear wheel
inside the frame. During normal operation of
this machine, the brakes are subject to wear
and will require periodic examination and
adjustment.

WARNING

Do not adjust the brake while the engine is run-

ning. Be sure to block the wheels of the tractor
before making the brake adjustment. If adjust-
ment is necessary, follow these steps:

1. Measure the length of the brake compression

spring. See figure 6-151.

2. Depress the clutch-brake pedal all the way and

set the parking brake.

3. Remeasure the length of the brake compres-

sion spring.

6-52
900 SERIES

7-1
 NOTE 7-1 Hydrostatic Transmission Control Adjust-
ment.
If the tractor creeps while the hydrostatic con-
trol lever is in neutral the controls at the hydro- Refer to Figures 7-2 and 7-3.
static transmission must be adjusted.
1. Block the rear of the tractor up so both rear
wheels are off the ground.

2. Loosen the hex jam nut on the tie rod at both

front ball joints.

7-2
 7

3. Move the cam plate forward or backward by 9. Tighten both jam nuts on the tie rod ends.
turning the tie rod clockwise or counterclock-
wise until the alignment hole in the slide 10. With the unit still on blocks, start the engine
mounting plate and cam plate line up. and run at full throttle. With the engine brake
released, move the control lever to the full for-
4. Loosen (do not remove) the two hex screws ward position. Return the control lever to the
which hold the support channel to the cam plate. neutral position. The wheels should stop mov-
ing. Proceed in the same manner for reverse.
5. Start the engine and run at full throttle. When moving the control lever to either the for-
ward or reverse position, the wheels must stop
NOTE moving. If the wheels fail to stop, repeat steps
2 through 10.
Proper adjustment of the hydrostatic transmis-
sion control cannot be obtained unless the 11. After the proper adjustment is reached, and
engine is running at full throttle. Running the the wheels stop as indicated, move the control
engine at a lower rpm will result in an inaccu- lever to the full forward position. Fully depress
rate adjustment of the control. the brake pedal and release. At this time, the
control lever should return to the neutral posi-
6. Adjust for neutral by rotating the slide mount- tion, and the wheels should stop. Repeat this
ing plate until no movement of the rear wheels procedure, this time moving the control lever to
can be detected. the reverse position.

7. Retighten the two hex screws in the support When the control lever is moved by handle to
channel which were loosened in step 4. the neutral position from either forward or
reverse, the wheels should stop moving. The
8. Recheck the hole alignment in the cam plate wheels should also stop moving if the control
and slide mounting plate for proper positioning lever is in either forward or reverse and the
as instructed in step 3. Readjust if necessary. brake pedal is depressed.

7-3
 b. Check the engine speed with a tachome-
NOTE ter. Engine should be running at 3500 to
3600 RPM.
Some 955 hydrostatic tractors have been
found to have a variance in ground speed, c. Move the hydraulic lift lever all the way
especially on uneven terrain. This variation in either direction and hold it until the relief
ground speed is usually caused by surging of valve opens. The gauge should read 700
the hydrostatic pump. This is caused by incor- psi.
rect seating of the slide mounting plate during
assembly. To correct the problem, readjust the d. If necessary, adjust relief valve as follows.
hydrostatic transmission control as previously Do not, under any circumstances, exceed
described, making sure the hub of the pintle 700 psi.
plate assembly is aligned and will drop into the
hole in the slide mounting plate. When cor- 4. If necessary, adjust valve as follows:
rectly positioned, the small hub on the pintle
plate assembly will fit in the hole of the slide a. Remove the acorn nut and washer. See
mounting plate and the needle bearing will Figure 7-5.
extend below the cam plate.
b. Back off the lock nut at least three com-
7-1.1 Hydraulic Lift Valve Adjustment. plete turns.

1. The valve is located under the left side of the c. Turn the screw one complete turn in.
tractor frame under the hydraulic lift lever. See
Figure 7-4. d. Tighten the lock nut.

e. Reassemble acorn nut and tighten.

f. Test the operation of the lift valve with the

attachment on the tractor and the tractor
engine running at full throttle.

g. If necessary, repeat the above steps.

2. The hydraulic lift valve is adjustable. Before

making adjustments to the valve, be sure the
engine is running at a maximum speed of 3600
RPM. If the hydraulic lift will not raise your
attachments, especially the heavier ones, you
can increase the pressure. The pressure has
been preset at the factory to 700 psi. The
equipment being used should be attached to
the tractor while adjusting the lift valve.

3. Insert a “T” fitting between the charge pump on

the hydrostatic transmission and the valve.
Secure a 1000 psi pressure gauge to the “T”
fitting. Proceed as follows:

a. Start the engine and run at full throttle.

7-4
7-1.2 Power Takeoff (PTO) Adjustment.

The PTO cable can be adjusted at either end.

To adjust, loosen the nut on the inside and
tighten the nut on the outside to compensate
for cable stretch. Adjust until the idler
depresses the safety switch plunger within 1/8
inch of bottoming out in the switch when the
PTO is in the OFF position. See Figure 7-6.

4. Remove V-belt. Reassemble using a new OEM

V-belt, part number 754-0234. 7
7-1.3 PTO Belt Removal. NOTE

1. Take off the front PTO belt guard assembly by If the PTO belt does not stop, replace the
removing four hex screws. See Figure 7-7. brake bracket.

12-6.8 Rear Wheel Track Adjustment.

The rear wheels may be adjusted wider for

more stability by reversing the wheels and rims
on the hubs.

With the rear wheels in the narrow position,

their outside is even with the outside of the
front wheels. With the rear wheels in the wide
position, their inside is even with the outside of
the front wheels.

Use this chart to determine the rear wheel setting.

MODEL WHEEL
ATTACHMENT NO. SET
50" Mowing Deck 190-993 N
12" Moldboard Plow 190-920 W/N
Tandem Disc Harrow 190-921 N
Spring Tooth Cult. 190-922 N
2. Put the PTO lever in the OFF position. 54" Snow Blade 190-985 N
45" Snow Thrower 190-990 N
3. Loosen two screws on inner belt guard. See 35" Rotary Tiller 190-960 N
Figure 7-8. N—Narrow W—Wide
Rear Wheel Chains 190-965
75 pound (each) Wheel Weights 190-784
7-5
7-1.2 Undercarriage Locks. 7-1.6 Drive Shaft Removal.
The maximum down position can be set on the
undercarriage for the mowing deck. See Figure 1. Loosen the square head set screw on the front
7-9. There are six positions. This adjustment universal joint. See Figure 7-11.
should be used with the deck roller adjustment
so the mowing deck is always cutting parallel
to the ground. To change the locks, remove the
hairpin cotter, clevis pin and spacer and install
in the desired hole. Both locks must be
adjusted in the same position.

When setting the cutting height, lower the deck

with the hydraulic lift until the undercarriage
bottoms out against the locks.

2. Slide the drive shaft assembly forward as far

as it will go. The rear universal joint can be
removed from the input shaft of the hydrostatic
transmission. See Figure 7-12.

The undercarriage locks are also used to hold

the undercarriage in the completely raised
position when using any of the rear mounted
attachment or to prevent the undercarriage
from moving up and down. See Figure 7-10.

3. Remove the drive shaft assembly from the

tractor.

NOTE

There is a square key at the engine crankshaft

and a hi-pro key at input shaft of transmission.
Do not lose.

7-6
 7

7-1.7 Three Point Hitch Assembly (See Figure 7-13). 5. Attach the ferrules to the rear lift shaft assem-
bly and secure with two hairpin cotters.
The three point hitch is needed for the rotary
tiller, disc, cultivator and moldboard plow. To 6. Attach the lower end of the clevis screw to the
use the mowing deck, snow thrower or snow draft bars with the two clevis pins and hairpin
plow, it is not necessary to install the three cotters.
point hitch.
7. Screw the two halves of the center turnbuckle
1. Raise the lift shaft assembly until the hole lines together. Attach either end to any hole in the
up with the slot in the push bar assembly. hitch bracket mounted in the center of the rear
frame or the tractor with a clevis pin and hair-
2. Secure with clevis pin and hairpin cotter pro- pin cotter.
vided in the hardware pack.
8. Screw one hex nut all the way on to each of
3. Assemble the two draft bars to the link clevis the hook bolts.
pins in the frame of the tractor with two hairpin
cotters. 9. Insert the hook bolt through the inside of the
draft bars. Secure with a second nut. Do not
NOTE tighten.

Refer to Figure 7-13 to determine right and left 10. Fasten the chains to the hooks welded on the
hand draft bars. draft bars. Cross the chains over and attach to
the opposite hook bolts.
4. Thread the ferrule onto the clevis screw until
approximately a half inch of thread is showing
above the ferrule.
7-7
 11. Tighten the outside nuts on the hook bolts until If adjustment is needed, proceed as follows:
there is approximately one inch of play in the
center of the chains. 1. Remove the hairpin clip and flat washer from
the bottom of the adjustable lift link on the right
NOTE side of the deck. Pull the adjustable lift link out
of the lift arm link.
Pull the chains to make them as tight as pos-
sible. 2. Turn the adjustable lift link up or down as nec-
essary to level the deck. Usually only one or
12. Make certain all nuts and bolts are tightened two turns are needed.
securely.
3. Insert the end of the adjustable lift link into the
7-1.8 Leveling the Deck (Optional Equipment). hole in the lift arm link. Recheck the adjust-
ment as instructed above. Readjust if neces-
With unit on hard, level surface, measure the sary.
distance from the bottom edge of the center of
the left side of deck to the ground. Measure the 4. When deck is level, secure the end of the
same distance just behind the chute area on adjustable lift link with flat washer and hairpin
the right side of the deck. Or, place the blades clip.
in a straight line, and measure the distance
from the outside edge of the blade tips to the
ground.

7-8
MODEL 999

Problem: It has been reported on a few units Solution: Replace defective hose by ordering
that after approximately 20 minutes of opera- part number 727-0218 or place hose clamps
tion a hydraulic hose part number 727-0218 on each end of the hose under warranty. See
located at the filter base and extending to the “Hose Diagram”.
valve assembly may slip off the fitting.

7-9
7-10
 CUTTING DECKS
CUTTING DECK PERFORMANCE
Operation * Problems * Solutions
WALK-BEHINDS AND LAWN AND GARDEN TRACTORS
THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS CAN AFFECT THE QUALITY OF
CUTTING GRASS
TIRE PRESSURE VARIATION: The air pres- tion will also damage or bend the deck hangers
sure should be equal on both front and rear or deck links. From then on till the problems
tires, approximately 12-13 lbs. air pressure are corrected the quality of cut is affected.
regardless of the size tire on lawn and garden When the wheels are set to run on the ground,
tractors. the deck drive belt is also subjected to exces-
sive load conditions. This causes the belt to
DECK WHEELS INCORRECTLY SET: The become very tight and then loose repeatedly
deck wheels should be set evenly so that the during the course of mowing and again this
pitch of the cutting blades will not be affected. condition is magnified when making turns,
If any difference is required for a better cut on causing premature wearing on the belt. Bent or
some walk-behind mowers, the front height uneven deck links can cause cutting problems.
adjuster can be one position lower to assure Deck links should move freely and not bind
that you are cutting with the front of the blade. against the frame of the tractor or other com-
If the deck is slightly lower in the rear you will ponent parts.
tend to cut the grass at the rear of the mower.
This causes the grass to be thrown to the rear CUTTING BLADES: First of all the blades
wheels and causes a rough or irregular cut. must be the correct part number for the mower
and original equipment style, according to the
DECK WHEEL ADJUSTMENT: The deck owner’s manual. The blade part number is
wheels on all lawn and garden tractors should stamped and is found stamped into the back
be adjusted so they will be 1/2" to 1" off the side of the blade. MTD blades are tempered
ground at all times. All cutting decks are float- and designed only to bend on impact and not
ing so that they can cut evenly over the to break. They are tested for this properly and
ground. The angle from front to rear is built into upon impact with an object. Nothing can come
the assembly on lawn tractors. Check to be off the mower. The only time a blade breaks is
certain the distance from the bottom edge of when first it is bent and the person operating
the deck to the ground is the same on both the mower chooses not to do anything about it.
sides of the deck. If it is not, adjust the links on With the blade now vibrating it will crack at the
the left side of the unit. The linkage is adjust- mounting bolt holes. You may vision this as to
able on garden tractors. After you have leveled when you take a piece of metal and bend it
the deck to the ground, you must adjust the back and forth. Many times it will break in two
linkage up 1/2" to 1" above the ground. pieces. This condition on a mower blade can
easily be detected by looking at the crack. The
Check to be certain the front of the deck is 1/4" first part of the crack will be rusting and the
to 3/8" lower in the front of the deck than from final stage of breaking will be shining and not
the rear of the deck. If it is not, adjust the two rusted.
front links to obtain this distance. This is of
most importance. You must keep in mind that if The blade adapter will often also show evi-
the deck is riding on the ground and you want dence as either being cracked or one of the
to make a turn with the tractor the cutting deck mounting ears bent upward. Blades are
still wants to travel straight if the wheels are on designed to be high lift, therefore meaning that
the ground and then as you turn, the cutting they are made with a raised area, behind the
deck will be dragged sideways. This then dam- cutting tips which create a lifting action, pulling
ages the wheels or the rollers. the grass up to the blade. The proper lift is
more important to the cutting quality than even 8
The deck doesn’t turn because there is no dif- a sharp edge. The blades must be run at full
ferential on the rear axle assembly. This condi- throttle position on the mower. To assure this,

8-1
the engine should be checked and running at ings. By rotating the blade by hand a bent spin-
3400 to 3600 RPM. This should be checked dle can be detected by wobble. If this is found,
with a tachometer by a qualified dealer. the spindle should be replaced. Often this is
checked when it is felt that bearings have worn
The blades running at the proper RPM develop out prematurely. Bearings and spindles often
a vacuum lift action. This is created by a com- take damaging shocks that the user is now
bination of things, mainly a deck designed with aware of, or quickly forgets that a few roots
baffles in the front and rear of the deck. The etc., have been hit.
deck depth and controlled flow design helps to
develop a deep vacuum action lifting the grass MISSILE DEFLECTORS: All of our mower
for cleaner, sharper cutting and efficient dis- decks are equipped with a missile deflector to
charge of the grass out the side or to the rear direct the flow of grass out the side of the deck
for bagging. This then brings us to understand at a safe angle and mowers should only be
the importance of discharging the grass. To operated with the deflector in the down posi-
accomplish this most effectively a full baffled tion. During our testing procedures we inject
deck housing is needed. That is also why the steel balls and nails under the deck while the
most effective decks for mulching are designed mower is running so that we can determine the
like a donut. The depth is important because angle that these objects will be discharged.
after the grass is cut it must rise into the dome The regulated height that any item can come
of the housing and as it falls to the ground the out is no higher than the knee.
grass is cut many more times by the inner
angles and edges of a special mulching blade. Decks should always have this deflector prop-
erly installed on the mower housing. If for
Most of our walk behind mowers are designed some reason that this deflector is off the
to be what we call three-in-one mowers, mean- mower during the warranty servicing, a claim
ing that they will mulch, side-discharge and can be submitted for replacement. A mower
side or rear bag grass. Blades must be prop- without a deflector can project STONES from
erly sharpened, following the original angle the driveway, and the NAILS that fell into the
and then checked for balance. If the blades are lawn when the roofer was installing the new
dull and nicked on the cutting edge this will roof and of course, no one could find them, but
tend to tear the grass rather than cut it. Mulch- the lawn mower does find them when you least
ing blades are more critical and most often it expect.
would be better to replace the blade rather
than trying to sharpen the varying angles and DECK BELT GUARDS: Belt guards must be
possibly lose its effectiveness. If blades are in properly adjusted and kept in place. The belt
question, measure from a level surface to the guards (hex bolts) on the engine pulley and
blade tip, using a rule or tape measure. The belt guards on the deck pulleys should have a
blade should be checked and then rotated to minimum of 1/8" clearance. Belt guards which
the other end 90 degrees. The measurements are rubbing the pulleys and/or belts can cause
between the blades should be the same and the belt to be subjected to excessive heat. The
no more than 3/16" height difference when the possibility of a belt rolling over is greatly
blades are tip to tip. If more than the 3/16" is increased when this type of condition exists.
discovered and the deck is hanging properly The engine pulley and the deck pulleys should
from the tractor, the blades should be removed be free of any nicks or dents and the pulley
and checked for straightness. sheaves edges should be smooth and free of
burrs.
The sharpened edges should lie flat against
the surface plate. If they do not, it is possible It is also important to then understand that
the blade is bent or warped. The blade can be these belt guards are not only to keep the belt
placed in a vise and straightened or replaced. on the pulley, but that they are also needed so
If the edge of the blades are found to be that the belts trap-out against them. When the
straight, it is then possible that the spindles or belt is disengaged, the belts then are pre-
spindle area in the deck is bent or warped from vented from continuing to travel. Understand-
hitting an object, root or curb. Each blade spin- ing this, it is then easy to understand the
dle can be checked and removed from the importance of the proper belt size and con-
deck and placed in a vise by the bearing hous- struction. All MTD belts are constructed

8-2
according to engineered drawings for the can cause too slow of a blade speed. Grass in
proper performance, not by chance to size. the spring has a high moisture content and
sometimes it is just too wet. This too can affect
To begin a repair on any mower the first thing the quality of cut. Grass should be relatively
to determine is, does it have the original type dry when cutting and a moderate ground
belts installed on it? If it does not, that is the speed be selected. Use the transmission to
place to start your repair. The belts must be to select the speed. Do not change the throttle
the manufacturers specifications. The results control from the full throttle position. For further
of the wrong belt on a deck can also cause information on individual decks, check the
poor cutting quality because the belt could be Technical Service Handbook #770-8640L.
slipping on the blade spindle pulley and this

8-3
8-1 Attaching the Deck. Proceed as follows:

1. Assemble deck wheels.

2. Move cutting deck wheels to the lowest cutting

height position (move levers all the way for-
ward).

3. Move blade engagement lever to the disen-

gaged position (all the way back). Place lift
lever in the highest position (all the way back).

4. Holding lift links on the tractor out of the way,

slide the deck underneath the tractor from the
right hand side.

5. The stabilizer rod and diagonal brace are

secured to the tractor with plastic ties for ship-
ping purposes only. Cut and remove plastic
ties.
9. Attach diagonal brace to the deck as shown
6. Place belt above diagonal brace. Route one using shoulder bolt, 3/8 inch lock washer and
side of the belt between the left hand lift link hex nut. Be certain shoulder bolt is through
and deck link, and the other side outside of the diagonal brace. See Figure 8-4.
deck link. Roll belt onto engine pulley. See Fig-
ure 8-2. 10. Attach stabilizer rod to the deck using flat
washer 3/8 inch ID and small hairpin clip.

WARNING

The deck blade brake cable must be attached

as described in step 13.

11. Move blade engagement lever to the engaged

position (all the way forward). Place lift lever in
the lowest position (all the way forward).

12. Lifting the deck slightly to align the holes,

attach two lift links to the deck using flat wash-
ers 1/2 inch ID and larger hairpin clips. Attach
front deck links then rear deck links using flat
washers 1/2 inch ID and hairpin clips.

7. Thread 5/16 inch hex nuts onto hex bolts 4 and 13. Adjust deck blade cable as follows (make cer-
4-1/2 inch long. Place cupped washers 5/16 tain engine is off):
inch ID on hex bolts (crown side of washers
goes against the nuts). See Figure 8-3. a. Place blade engagement lever in the dis-
engaged position.
8. Attach hex bolts 4 and 4-1/2 inch long to the
engine pulley belt guard bracket to act as belt
guards. Assemble in the locations shown. Be
certain the belt is inside the bolts as shown.

8-4
 b. Pull brake cable toward the front of the
tractor and line it up with a hole in the
brake bracket. Attach cable to the next
hole toward the rear of the tractor using
clevis pin, flat washer 1/4 inch ID and hair-
pin clip. There should be some slack in the
cable as shown. See Figure 8-5.

c. Place blade engagement lever in the

engaged position. Place lift lever in the
highest position (all the way back). The
brake cable should now be straight and the
brake pad should be pulled away from the
deck pulley groove.

14. Readjust the deck wheels to the position

desired.

8-5
8-1.1 Deck Belt Removal and Replacement. Table 8-1. Model 194-935 Blade
Mounting Torques
WARNING
BOLT SIZE MINIMUM MAXIMUM
Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it INCH INCH
against engine. Block the wheels of the unit. POUNDS POUNDS

1. Remove deck. Refer to previous section and 3/8-inch diameter 375 450
follow instructions in reverse order.
5/26-inch diameter 150 250
2. Remove belt guard by unhooking spring and
removing two self-tapping screws. See Figure NOTE
8-6.
If the blade assemblies are not timed, it will
affect the cut of the grass and the discharge.

WARNING

The blades should be at right angles to each

other for proper timing position. If the blade
assemblies are timed improperly, it will affect
the cut of the grass and the discharge. SERI-
OUS DAMAGE TO THE BLADES, SPINDLES,
BELT AND DECK CAN OCCUR IF THE
BLADES HIT EACH OTHER.

WARNING

Blades cannot be placed in the two additional

spots provided on the blade disc. This is a
timed deck and the blades will hit each other
and destroy themselves and the deck assem-
bly.
3. Remove first drive belt.
NOTE
4. Remove both right and left hand pulley covers
by removing self-tapping screws.
Swing back blades are beneficial to the cus-
tomer in that if he or she hits something the
5. Pivot spring-loaded idler and lift belt off.
blades will absorb some shock as they swing
back. These blades must not be torqued down
6. Remove belt from around the three deck pul-
too tight—if they are, you could possibly lessen
leys.
your cutting diameter if the blades are only par-
tially swinging out. Blades must be in the fully
7. Reassemble in reverse order.
out position or you will not get the full 44 inch
cut. Blades need to swing back and forth
8-2. MODEL 931 44-INCH REAR DISCHARGE
freely.
MOWING DECK (See Figure 8-7).

8-2.1 Timing the Blades.

1. Remove center blade bolt on either blade

assembly.

2. Rotate blade assembly on the cutting deck and

reassemble the other blade assembly at 90°
exactly as shown. See Figure 8-9 on page 8-9.
For blade mounting torques, see Table 8-1.

8-6
 8

8-7
8-8
 folded back over the deck for shipping pur-
poses. Unfold them at this time.

NOTE

Swing blades are available for the 44-inch side

or the 44-inch rear discharge deck, Model 931
or 935.

8-2.2 Attaching the Deck Links (if so equipped).

The three adjustable deck links have been
shipped unassembled. Attach as follows.

1. Start 1/2 inch hex nuts on eyebolts provided.

Insert the hex nuts and eyebolts into the
adjustable lift links. See Figure 8-10.

2. Thread eyebolts into the lift links and hex nuts.

All three links should be adjusted so the eye-
bolt is to the lower mark as shown.

NOTE

This adjustment is for 44 inch decks only.

8-2.3 Attaching the Deck.

1. Assemble deck wheels.

2. Remove round belt keeper from idler by

removing cotter hairpin. See Figure 8-11.

3. Unscrew L bolt and swing the wire belt guard

on the engine pulley forward.

4. Adjust deck wheels to their lowest cutting posi-

tion.

5. Move tractor lift handle all the way back to the

full raised position.

6. Turn tractor steering wheel all the way to the

left.
8. Slide deck under the tractor from the right side.
8
7. The two deck stabilizers and diagonal brace
which are attached to the front of the deck are

8-9
 NOTE

If the two front hanger brackets on your unit

are adjustable, adjust them to be the same
length as the rear.
9. Move tractor lift lever all the way forward to the
lowest position.

10. Attach four tractor hanger brackets to the deck

with four 1/2 inch ID washers and four medium
cotter hairpins. The left front tractor hanger
bracket goes through the center of the V-belt.
Attach the rear hanger brackets first, then the
front hanger brackets. See Figure 8-12.

15. Secure with brake release cable to the tractor

idler bracket with small clevis pin and small
cotter hairpin. Use the outside hole in the
bracket. See Figure 8-14.

11. Disassemble front cross bar from the tractor

then reassemble using two large cotter hair-
pins to attach the deck linkage to the tractor
frame. See Figure 8-13.

12. Place deck belt around engine pulley and idler.

13. Replace round belt guard. Swing wire belt

guard over the engine pulley and secure it with
L bolt.

NOTE
8-2.4 Leveling the Deck (if equipped with adjust-
If there are two holes in the frame, assemble able deck links). After attaching the deck to
the L bolt in the rear hole. the tractor, check to be certain it is adjusted
properly.
14. Check all belt guards for clearance. The belt
guards must be between 1/16 and 1/8 inch
away from the belt when the PTO lever is in
the engaged position.

8-10
 1. Check tire pressure in all four tires. Recom- 4. Loosen idler pulley enough so that the belt can
mended pressure is 12 psi. be removed from between the two pulleys.

2. On a level surface, engage the PTO and lower 5. Remove and replace blade belt.
the deck until it is 1/2 to 1 inch above the
ground. 6. Reassemble and adjust belt tension. To adjust
belt tension, tighten lock nut until the flat
3. Check to be certain the distance from the bot- washer contacts the shoulder spacer.
tom edge of the deck to the ground is the same
on both sides of the deck. If it is not, adjust the
links on the left side of the unit.

NOTE

When adjusting the deck links, disengage the

PTO. Remove the hairpin clip and washer from
the weld bolt. Thread eyebolt up or down the
link as necessary, and reassemble.

4. Check to be certain the front of the deck is 1/4

to 3/8 inch lower than the rear of the deck. If it
is not, adjust the two front links to obtain this
distance.

8-2.5 Setting the Cutting Height. Select the position

for the tractor lift lever which gives the desired
cutting height. Then move the wheels on the
deck so that the wheels are 1/4 to 1/2 inch
above the ground.

NOTE

To obtain the best, uniform cut, the deck is

designed to be suspended from the tractor at
the desired cutting height. The deck wheels
should be just off the ground to smooth out the
cut and guard against gouging.

WARNING

Keep hands and feet away from the chute area

on cutting deck.

8-2.6 Deck Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove two hex screws holding belt guard to

timing belt cover. See Figure 8-15. NOTE

2. Replace belt and reassemble. Do not overtighten lock nut. You should be able
to just slightly turn spacer.
8-2.7 Blade Belt Removal and Replacement.
7. Adjust belt tension after the first 10 hours of
1. Remove belt guard and drive pulley. operation and every 25 hours of operation
thereafter.
2. Remove blade belt cover. 8
8.3. MODEL 194-935 44-INCH SIDE DISCHARGE
3. Loosen tension adjusting nut. See Figure 8-16. MOWING DECK (See Figure 8-17).

8-11
8-12
8-3.1 Timing the Blades. For blade timing, refer to 8-3.5 Setting the Cutting Height. For cutting height
paragraph 8-2, Model 931. setting, refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.

8-3.2 Attaching the Deck Links (if so equipped). 8-3.6 Deck Belt Removal and Replacement. For
For deck links attachment, refer to paragraph removal and replacement of the deck belt,
8-2, Model 931. refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.

8-3.3 Attaching the Deck. For deck attachment, 8-3.7 Blade Belt Removal and Replacement. For
refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931. removal and replacement of the blade belt,
refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.
8-3.4 Leveling the Deck (if equipped with adjust-
able deck links). For deck leveling adjust-
ment, refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.

8-13
 NOTE 8-4.6 Deck Belt Removal and Replacement.

If disassembled for any reason, tighten blade 1. Remove two hex screws holding belt guard to
spindle nuts for the 22 inch blades to between timing belt cover.
80 and 100 ft-lbs. Tighten blade spindle nut for
the smaller center blade to between 40 and 45 2. Replace belt and reassemble.
ft-lbs. For components of typical blade spindle
assembly, see Table 8-2. 8-4.7 Blade Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove belt guard and drive pulley.

Table 8-2 Blade Spindle Part Number 717-0619
2. Remove blade belt cover.
PART NO. DESCRIPTION QTY.
712-0922 Hex Jam Nut, 1/2-20 Thd. 1 3. Loosen four hub bolts.
736-0253 Bell Washer, 1 2" ID x 1" OD 2
736-0162 Flat Washer, .635" ID x 1 4. Loosen tension adjusting nut.
1.04" ID
710-0947 Hex B-Tap Screw, .25" x 3 5. Remove and replace blade belt.
.75" Lg
15348 Reinforcement Plate 1 6. Reassemble and adjust belt tension.
736-0302 Flat Washer, 5/8" ID x 2
15/16" OD NOTE
15319 Bearing Housing 2
741-0155 Ball Bearing 2 Scalping the ground or running over a clump of
15319 Bearing Housing 1 dirt can knock the blades out of timing. Stop
16348 Reinforcement Plate 1 the tractor, align and retime the blades.
16400 Bearing Shield 1
738-0627 6.5 Blade Spindle 1 NOTE

If the PTO belt is loose, check to see that the

NOTE diagonal deck mounting brace is not bent. This
might be caused by the deck wheels running
This is not a timed deck. on the ground. The deck wheels are used as
an antiscalping device only and should be set
8-4 Attaching the Deck Links (if so equipped). at 1/4 to 1/2 inch above ground level.
For deck links attachment, refer to paragraph
8-2, Model 931. 8-4.8 Belt Tension Adjustment.
8-4.1 Attaching the Deck. For deck attachment, NOTE
refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.
Adjust belt tension after the first 10 hours of
8-4.2 Leveling the Deck (if equipped with adjust- operation and every 25 hours of operation
able deck links). For deck leveling adjust- thereafter.
ment, refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.
1. Loosen four spindle nuts on the bottom of the
8-4.3 Setting the Cutting Height. For cutting height cutting deck. See Figure 8-19.
setting, refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.
2. Tap the deck with a hammer handle to loosen
8-4.4 Deck Belt Removal and Replacement. For washers on four spindle nuts.
removal and replacement of the deck belt,
refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931. 3. Tighten tension adjustment nut.
8-4.5 Blade Belt Removal and Replacement. For 4. Tighten four spindle nuts.
removal and replacement of the blade belt,
refer to paragraph 8-2, Model 931.

8-14
 846. It is now 5/8 inch diameter and includes
spacers on the outer edges of the rod.

8-5.3 The 9 style unit with a 46-inch deck uses a

12.75 inch cable, part number 727-0445; the
other 46-inch decks use a 12.56 inch cable,
part number 727-0426.

8-5.4 In 1988 units you might see some problems

with the older 806 deck clogging up instead of
bagging. This was a baffle problem and can be
repaired by ordering a new deck shell, part
number 17218C.

NOTE

To change over a 44-inch nonbagging deck to

the new style 46-inch bagging deck, order kit
number 190-807-000 and deck number 190-
806-000.

CAUTION
8-4.9 Belt Removal and Replacement.
To prevent damage to the deck linkage the
1. Remove deck.
deck wheels must be approximately 1/4 to 1/2
inch above ground level.
2. Remove belt guard by unhooking spring and
removing two self-tapping screws.
8-5.5 Sharpening Cutting Blades.
3. Remove first drive belt.
WARNING
4. Remove both right and left hand pulley covers
Protect hands by using heavy gloves or a rag
by removing self-tapping screws.
to grasp the cutting blades.
5. Pivot spring-loaded idler and lift belt off.
1. The blades may be removed for sharpening or
replacement as follows:
6. Remove belt from around the three deck pul-
leys.
a. Remove the 3/8 inch bolt and lock washer
holding blade and adapter to blade spin-
7. Reassemble new belts in reverse order.
dle.
8-5 MODELS 806, 846, AND SERIES 800 “H” 46-
b. Remove blade and adapter from blade
INCH SIDE DISCHARGE MOWING DECK
spindle.
(See Figure 8-20).
c. Remove the two 5/16 inch bolts, lock
8-5.1 Model 846 deck was introduced in 1989 due to
washers and nuts holding blade to
a style variation in the frame on the 700 and
adapter.
800 series tractors. This style variation
required a change in the front linkage on the
2. When sharpening blades, follow the original
deck. The 846 deck replaced the Model 806 for
angle of grind as a guide. It is extremely impor-
1988 productions. A conversion kit is available.
tant that each cutting edge be ground equally
To convert an 806 deck to the current Model
to prevent an unbalanced blade. An unbal-
846, order kit number 753-0486. To convert an
anced blade will cause excessive vibration
846 deck to the earlier Model 806, order kit
number 753-0487.
when rotating at high speeds, may cause dam-
age to the mower and could break, causing 8
personal injury.
8-5.2 The major difference between the 846 and 806
decks is that the front crossbar is larger on the

8-15
8-16
 3. Optional sand blades are available as follows: 8-5.7 Attaching the Deck.

a. Center blade part number 742-0497 (1 per NOTE

unit).
If your unit has an electric clutch, disregard
b. Outside blades part number 742-0498 (2 steps 1, 8 and 10.
per unit).
1. Working beneath the tractor, remove round
8-5.6 Attaching the Deck Links. The three adjust- belt guard from idler by removing hairpin clip.
able deck links have been shipped unassem- Remove two hex bolts which act as belt keep-
bled. Attach as follows. ers by engine pulley. See Figure 8-22.

1. Start 1/2 inch hex nuts on eyebolts provided.

Insert the hex nuts and eyebolts into the
adjustable lift links. See Figure 8-21.

2. Thread eyebolts into the lift links and hex nuts.

The left rear link should be adjusted so the
eyebolt is to the lower mark as shown. The two
front links should be adjusted to the higher
mark.

NOTE

This adjustment is for 46 inch decks only. For

44 inch decks, the eyebolts should be at the
lower marks for all three links.

2. Move tractor lift handle all the way back to the

full raised position. Turn the tractor steering
wheel all the way to the left.

3. The two deck stabilizers and the diagonal

brace which are attached to the front of the
deck are folded back over the deck for ship-
ping purposes. Unfold them at this time. See
Figure 8-23.

8
4. Slide the deck under the tractor from the right
side as you lift the stabilizers and diagonal
brace over the right front wheel.

8-17
5. Move tractor lift handle forward to the lowest 10. Check all belt guards for clearance. The belt
position. guards must be between 1/16 and 1/8 inch
away from the belt when the PTO lever or
6. Attach four tractor hanger brackets to the deck switch is in the engaged or on position. Be cer-
with four flat washers and four hairpin clips. tain to disengage the PTO after checking.
The left front tractor hanger bracket goes
through the center of the V-belt. Attach the rear 11. Secure brake release cable to tractor idler
hanger brackets first, then the front hanger bracket with clevis pin and small hairpin clip
brackets. See Figure 8-24. using the hole in the idler bracket. See Figure
8-26.

7. Disassemble front cross bar from the tractor by

8-5.8 Leveling the Deck. After attaching the deck
removing two hairpin clips. Use the cross bar
adjust as follows:
to attach deck stabilizers, diagonal brace and
two spacers to tractor frame, using the rear-
1. Check tire pressure in all four tires. Recom-
ward set of holes. Secure with two hairpin clips
mended pressure is 12 psi.
just removed. See Figure 8-25.
2. Make certain all deck wheels are mounted in
same relative location.

3. On a level surface, engage the PTO and lower

the deck until it reaches the ground. All four
deck wheels should reach the ground at the
same time. If they do not, adjust the deck links
as necessary.

NOTE

When adjusting the deck links, disengage the

PTO. Remove the hairpin clip and washer from
the weld bolt. Thread eyebolt up or down the
link as necessary and reassemble.
8. Place deck belt around engine pulley and idler
pulley.
4. Release the deck 1/2 to 1 inch above the
ground.
9. Replace round belt guard by idler pulley (hex
side down). Replace hex bolts (belt keepers)
5. Check to be certain the distance from the bot-
by engine pulley.
tom edge of the deck to the ground is the same
on both sides of the deck. If it is not, adjust the
links on the left side of the unit.

8-18
 6. Check to be certain the front of the deck is 1/4 8-5.10 Belt Removal and Replacement.
to 3/8 inch lower than the rear of the deck. If it
is not, adjust the two front links to obtain this 1. Remove the deck by following instructions in
distance. reverse order.

8-5.9 Setting the Cutting Height. Select the posi- 2. Remove left hand pulley cover by unhooking
tion for the tractor lift lever which gives the spring and removing five self-tapping screws.
desired cutting height. Then move the wheels See Figure 8-27.
on the deck so that the wheels are 1/4 to 1/2
inch above the ground. 3. Remove first drive belt.

NOTE 4. Remove left hand pulley cover by removing

three self-tapping screws.
To obtain the best, uniform cut, the deck is
designed to be suspended from the tractor at 5. Pivot spring-loaded idler and lift belt off.
the desired cutting height. The deck wheels
should be just off the ground to smooth out the 6. Remove belt from around three deck pulleys.
cut and guard against gouging.
7. Reassemble new belts in reverse order.
WARNING

Keep hands and feet away from the chute area

on cutting deck.

8-19
8-6 MODEL SERIES 800 “P” 50-INCH SIDE DIS- 18-6.1 Attaching the Deck Links. For deck links
CHARGE DECK (See Figure 8-28). attachment, refer to paragraph 8-5, 46-inch
deck.

8-20
8-6.2 Attaching the Deck. the rod which is through the deck stabilizer by
removing the hairpin clips and sliding out the
NOTE rod. Replace the rod and hairpin clips. See Fig-
ure 8-30.
If your unit has an electric clutch, disregard
steps 1, 10 and 12. 5. Slide the deck under the tractor from the right
side as you lift the stabilizers and diagonal
1. Working beneath the tractor, remove the round brace of the right front wheel.
belt guard from the idler by removing the hair-
pin clip. See Figure 8-29. Remove two hex 6. Move tractor lift handle forward to the lowest
bolts which act as belt keepers by the engine position.
pulley.
7. Attach the four tractor hanger brackets to the
deck as follows. The left front tractor hanger
bracket goes through the center of the V-belt.
See Figure 8-31. Attach the rear hanger brack-
ets first, then the front, using four flat washers
and hairpin clips.

2. Move the tractor lift handle all the way back to

the full raised position. Turn the tractor steering
wheel all the way to the left.

3. The two deck stabilizers and the diagonal

brace which are attached to the front of the 8. Disassemble the front cross bar from the trac-
deck are folded back over the deck for ship- tor by removing two hairpin clips. Use the
ping purposes. Unfold them at this time. See cross bar to attach the deck stabilizers, the
Figure 8-30. diagonal brace and two spacers to the tractor
frame, using the forward set of holes. Secure
with the two hairpin clips just removed. See
Figure 8-32.

8
9. Place the deck belt around the engine pulley
and idler pulley.
4. Remove the hairpin clips and flat washers from
each deck bracket. Remove the spacers from

8-21
 10. Replace the round belt guard by the idler pul- 8-6.4 Setting the Cutting Height. Select the position
ley (hex side down). Replace the hex bolts for the tractor lift lever which gives the desired
(belt keepers) by the engine pulley. See Figure cutting height. Then move the deck roller so
8-29. that it is 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the ground.

11. Check all belt guards for clearance. The belt NOTE
guards must be between 1/16 and 1/8 inch
away from the belt when the PTO lever or To obtain the best, uniform cut, the deck is
switch is in the engaged or on position (be cer- designed to be suspended from the tractor at
tain to disengage the PTO lever after check- the desired cutting height. The deck roller
ing). should be just off the ground, to smooth out the
cut and guard against gouging.
12. Secure the brake release cable to the tractor
idler bracket with clevis pin and small hairpin
clip, using the hole in the idler bracket as WARNING
shown in Figure 8-33.
Keep hands and feet away from the chute area
on cutting deck.

8-6.5 Belt Removal and Replacement.

1. Remove the deck by following instructions on

page 8-21 in reverse order.

2. Remove the left hand pulley cover by unhook-

ing the spring and removing five self-tapping
screws. See Figure 8-34.
8-6.3 Leveling the Deck. After attaching the deck to
the tractor, check to be certain it is adjusted 3. Remove the first drive belt.
properly.
4. Remove the right hand pulley cover by remov-
1. Check tire pressure in all four tires. Recom- ing three self-tapping screws.
mended pressure is 12 psi.
5. Pivot the spring-loaded idler, and lift belt off.
2. Make certain both ends of the deck roller are
mounted in same hole location. 6. Remove the belt from around the three deck
pulleys.
3. On a level surface, engage the PTO and lower
the deck until it is 1/2 to 1 inch above the 7. Reassemble new belts in reverse order.
ground.
8-6.6 Sharpening Cutting Blades.
4. Check to be certain the distance from the bot-
tom edge of the deck to the ground is the same
on both sides of the deck. If it is not, adjust the WARNING
links on the left side of the unit.
Protect hands by using heavy gloves or a rag
NOTE to grasp the cutting blades.

When adjusting the deck links, disengage the 1. The blades may be removed for sharpening or
PTO. Remove the hairpin clip and washer from replacement as follows:
the weld bolt. Thread eyebolt up or down the
link as necessary, and reassemble. a. Remove the 3/8 inch bolt and lock washer
holding the blade and adapter to the blade
5. Check to be certain the front of the deck is 1/4 spindle.
to 3/8 inch lower than the rear of the deck. If it
is not, adjust the two front links to obtain this b. Remove the blade and adapter from the
distance. blade spindle.

8-22
c. Remove the two 5/16 inch bolts, lock washers 3. The blade can be tested for balance by balanc-
and nuts holding the blade to the adapter. See ing it on a round shaft screwdriver. Removal
Figure 8-35. metal from the heavy side until it balances
evenly.
2. When sharpening the blades, follow the origi-
nal angle of grind as a guide. It is extremely 4. When replacing the blade, be sure to install the
important that each cutting edge be ground blade with the side of the blade marked “Bot-
equally to prevent an unbalanced blade. An tom” (or with part number) facing the ground
unbalanced blade will cause excessive vibra- when the mower is in the operating position.
tion when rotating at high speeds, may cause
damage to the mower and could break, caus- Blade Mounting Torque
ing personal injury.
3/8 Dia. Bolt 375 in-lb min., 450 in-lb max.
5/16 inch Dia. Bolt 150 in-lb min., 250 in-lb
max.

Blade Spindle Nuts

If disassembled for any reason, tighten the

blade spindle nuts between 80 and 100 foot
pounds.

To insure safe operation of your unit, all nuts

and bolts must be checked periodically for cor-
rect tightness.

8-23
8-24
8-7.1 The 50 inch tri-blade rotary mower cutting deck 5. Remove hairpin cotters and clevis pins from
assembly for the 995 series garden tractor is each side of the deck roller bracket. Raise
classified as a quick connect version and deck one notch on each side. Secure with hair-
comes completely assembled ready to attach pin cotters and clevis pins just removed. See
with a universal drive shaft. All you have to do Figure 8-38.
is mount the missile deflector and follow the
mounting instructions. The deck is easily dis-
connected when using other ground engaging
accessories. It measures 50-3/4 inches long x
32-3/4 inches wide. The right angle gear box is
made by Peerless and is lubricated with 4
ounces of E.P. Lithium Grease, part number
727-0166.

CAUTION

The front deck hanger bracket must be

mounted in the holes furthest to the rear.

8-7.2 Attaching the Deck.

1. The clevis pins, spacers and hairpin cotters on

the front of the undercarriage must be set in 6. Pull release pins and raise rear hanger locks.
the lowest position. See Figure 8-37. See Figure 8-39.

NOTE

Service the engine with gasoline and oil before

starting the tractor. 7. Start tractor and lower undercarriage as far as
it will go by moving hydraulic lift lever all the
2. Start tractor and move the hydraulic lift lever all way forward. Stop tractor.
the way backward (raised position). Stop trac-
tor. 8. Lift front of mowing deck and push back, mak-
ing sure the front deck handle slots go over
3. Turn tractor steering wheel all the way to the front cross bars and between the spacers. See
left. Slide mowing deck underneath the tractor Figure 8-40.
from right hand side.
8
4. Slide square end of universal drive shaft into
universal on the deck.

8-25
 NOTE

When replacing the belt, use only an O.E.M.

belt. Order part number 754-0197 from your
nearest authorized service dealer.

1. Remove mowing deck cover.

2. Disconnect spring from idler to obtain slack on

the belt. Remove belt.

9. Pull release pins and push hanger locks down.

Lock in place on both sides.

10. Attach front quick-disconnect universal to PTO

shaft on the tractor. Apply a small amount of
grease to the square shaft on the universal
shaft.

8-7.3 Belt Removal and Replacement.

3. Install new belt. See Figure 8-41.

8-26
 MODEL 824 ELECTRIC SLEEVE HITCH
FastAttach™ Compatible Garden Tractors
Preparation

The Model 824 Electric Sleeve Hitch is

designed for use on FastAttach™ compatible
Garden Tractors only. See Figure 8-42.

2. Remove the battery hold down strap.

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the

battery terminal by removing the carriage bolt
and wing nut
Before installation, place the tractor on a firm
and level surface. Place the PTO in the off 4 Disconnect the positive battery cable from the
position, turn off the tractor engine and set the battery terminal using a 7/16" socket and a
parking brake. 7/16" wrench.

Remove all parts from the carton and make 5. Remove the battery from the tractor.
certain that all components are accounted for.
6. Remove the battery tray from the tractor.
The cartons contents are listed in your owner’s
manual. 7. If the tractor comes equipped with shoulders
bolts attached to the rear hitch plate, you must
Read and understand your owner’s manual. remove them using an 11/16" and a 15/16"
Follow all safety instructions. socket. Set them aside. See Figure 8-44.

References to left and right indicate the left

and right sides of the tractor when facing for-
ward in the operators seat.

Attaching the sleeve hitch to the tractor

1. Pivot the tractor seat forward to expose the

battery. See Figure 8-43.

8-27
 8. Reaching through the battery tray opening,
position the 13" support rod between the holes
where the shoulder bolts attached.

9. Fasten the support rod to the tractor frame by

passing each shoulder bolt through a bellville
washer, side frame and into each end of the
support rod using two 15/16" wrenches.

NOTE

Make certain the cupped edge of the bellville

washer faces the tractor frame.

10. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin from the
hole at the bottom of the sleeve hitch assem-
bly.

11. Position the hooked ends of the sleeve hitch 4. Carefully move the fuel tank away from the
assembly to the outside of the hitch plate and dash panel and set it towards the front of the
over the shoulder bolts. See Figure 8-45. engine.

NOTE

Keep the fuel tank upright to avoid leak-age

from the filler vent.

5. Mark the dash to indicate the placement of the

hole. See Figure 8-47.

12. Insert a clevis pin through the aligned holes in

both the sleeve hitch and the tractor hitch plate
and secure with a hairpin clip.

Installing the toggle switch and routing the har-

ness

1. Identify what style dash the tractor has.

NOTE
2. Raise the tractor hood.
You will be drilling a hole through the dash to
3. Remove the four hex bolts securing the fuel install the toggle switch. On the style 4 dash,
tank to the tractor frame using a 9/16" socket the hole will be approximately three inches
and extension. See Figure 8-46. below the choke knob (or plastic plug) and to
the left of the parking brake button. On the
style 8 and 9 dash, the hole will be approxi-
mately two inches below the ignition switch, on
the right side of the dash.

8-28
6. Detent the dash with a punch, and form a pilot
hole.
7. Drill a 1/2" hole through the dash.

NOTE

Make certain the wiring harness is not dam-

aged while drilling.

8. Clean any burrs from the hole.

9. Remove the jam nut from the toggle switch.

10. Position the switch so the lettering stamped on

the side of the switch is facing toward the left.
See Figure 8-48.

14. Insert the fuse holder clip into the hole in the
left dash support tube.

15. Loosely attach a cable tie around the harness

and support tube.

NOTE

Do not tighten at this time.

16. Continue to route the wire harness beneath the

left side of the fender running board along the
tractor’s frame. See Figure 8-50.

11. Insert the switch from the back side of the

dash.

12. Secure the toggle switch to the dash with the

jam nut removed earlier, using an adjustable
wrench.

13. Route the wire harness down along the left

dash support tube through the frame near the
running board. See Figure 8-49.

17. Use cable ties to fasten the harness loosely to

the frame.

NOTE

If a hydraulic tiller attachment is to be mounted

to the sleeve hitch, do not place cable ties
through the pair of holes immediately in front of 8
the rear cross member, or through the pair of
holes directly above the lift arm pivot bolts.

8-29
 These holes will be used to mount the under-
carriage for the hydraulic pump.

18. Route the harness up the inside edge of the

fender and pass it through the hitch plate
opening on the left side of the frame, adjacent
to the underside of the cup holder. See Figure
8-51.

25. Slide the rubber boot over the positive termi-

nal.

26. Secure both black cable eyelets to the nega-

tive terminal of the battery with the original bolt
and wing nut.

19. Reach through the battery tray opening and 27. Install the battery hold down strap.
locate the black and red wires of the hitch har-
ness. Pull them up and towards the rear of the 28. Snap the molded plastic plug (coming from the
tractor. lift motor) into the new sleeve hitch harness
female connector at the rear of the tractor. See
20. Attach the wires loosely to the existing wiring Figure 8-53.
harness with cable ties. Align the connectors
and match their colors to the existing harness.

21. Install the battery tray, making certain both sets

of battery cables are positioned through the
rear slot between the frame and the battery
tray.

22. Place the battery in the battery tray.

23. Pass the red cable of the sleeve hitch harness

through the protective rubber boot which cov-
ers the positive battery cable eyelet.

24. Install the pair of red cables to the positive bat-

tery post with the original hardware, using two
7/16" wrenches. See Figure 8-52.
29. Use a cable tie to attach this portion of the har-
ness to the frame behind the left rear tire. See
Figure 8-54.

8-30
 31. Tuck the excess slack of the hitch harness
between the dash and the side panel of the
tractor.

NOTE

This will prevent the hitch harness from being

snagged while operating the tractor.

32. Tighten all cable ties securely, and cut off the
excess length.

33. Re-install the fuel tank using a 9/16" wrench.

34. Test the electric hitch.

30. Gently pull the hitch harness forward, remov-

ing all excess slack.

30-INCH HYDRAULIC TILLER ATTACHMENT

OEM-190-825 For FastAttach™ Compatible Garden Tractors Only

The use of front weights (included with the

tiller) is required for safe operation of the tiller
attachment.

Carefully read all sections of the Owner’s Man-

ual and study the illustrations to ensure proper
installation and operation of this attachment.

Read and observe all WARNING statements.

They are there to provide protection to the
equipment installer and operator, and to
ensure the prolonged service life of the equip-
ment.

References to LEFT and RIGHT indicate the

Figure 8-55.
left and right sides of the tractor and tiller
The Model OEM-190-825 hydraulic tiller attachment when facing forward in the opera-
attachment is designed for use on FastAt- tor’s position. Reference to the FRONT indi-
tach™ compatible Garden Tractors (800 cates the grille end of the tractor and refer-
Series) only. It will NOT fit nor operate properly ence to the REAR indicates the draw bar end
or safely on ANY other tractor. See Figure 8- where the tiller attaches.
55.
Contents of Carton
This hydraulic tiller attachment must be
mounted on the tractor together with an elec- 1. Remove all loose components from the carton.
tric sleeve hitch (Model OEM-190-824) that Refer to the Owner’s Manual for the parts list.
must be purchased separately. See Figure 8-56.
8

8-31
Component Layout
NOTE
1. Position the tiller assembly on a smooth and
level surface about 10' to the rear of the tractor, The shouldered side of the idler pulley should
with the tines facing away from the tractor. face the undercarriage. The belt keeper should
be installed from beneath the undercarriage,
2. Extend the tiller stand to support the tiller. with it’s index tab in the hole adjacent to the
bolt hole.)
3. Position the undercarriage assembly between
the tiller assembly and the tractor. 2. Route the belt between the belt keeper and the
idler pulley.
4. Select the proper belt for your unit.
3. Tighten the nut and bolt using two 9/16"
NOTE wrenches.

Two upper drive belts are included with the 4. If your tractor is equipped with an electric PTO,
tiller attachment. The belt packaged with the remove the right front belt keeper pin from the
undercarriage assembly in the separate box is undercarriage using a 7/16" wrench.
for use on tractor’s equipped with an electric
PTO. It is part number 754-0490. The other Attaching Hoses
upper drive belt is for use on tractors with a
manual PTO. It is part number 754-0341. The GENERAL NOTES
belt part numbers are stamped on the outer
edge of the belts. No sealant is required when connecting
hydraulic flare fittings such as the ones used
Preparing the Undercarriage and Tiller on the hydraulic hoses of this tiller.

1. Install the idler pulley and belt keeper 0n to the Remove the plastic shipping caps prior to con-
bracket at the front left corner of the undercar- necting the fitting which is capped, to minimize
riage assembly using the 3/8" bolt and self- the possibility of contamination.
locking nut.
NOTE
NOTE
Clean the area around the shipping caps
Do not tighten at this time. See Figure 8-57. before removing them. This will prevent con-
tamination to the hydraulic system.

Make certain not to cross thread the connec-

tors when attaching the hoses.

8-32
 Each hose has female flare fittings on both
ends. One end of each hose will attach to the
male flare fittings on the hydraulic pump.

1. Install one end of the larger diameter hose

onto the larger male flare fitting of the hydraulic
pump using a 1-1/8" wrench and a 1-1/4"
wrench. See Figure 8-58.

NOTE

Use two plastic shipping caps removed from

the fittings you have already connected to pre-
vent dirt from entering the valve and the front
hydraulic hose.

4. Install the loose end of the smaller hydraulic

NOTE hose to the male fitting which extends from the
side of the control valve.
Hold the larger male fitting on the pump sta-
tionary and tighten the female fitting. NOTE

2. Install one end of the smaller diameter hose Hand tighten the hose to the fitting. See Figure
onto the smaller male fitting of the hydraulic 8-60.
pump using an 11/16" wrench and a 1" wrench.

NOTE

Hold the smaller male fitting on the pump sta-

tionary and tighten the female fitting.

3. Using a pair of 1" wrenches, disconnect the

front hydraulic hose from the male fitting on the
control valve. See Figure 8-59.

5. Install and hand tighten the larger hydraulic

hose to the male fitting on the front surface of
the tiller assembly. The fitting is located for-
ward of the control valve, level with the bottom
edge of the tiller’s mounting bracket. 8
Preparing the Tractor

8-33
GENERAL over the shoulder bolts found on the out side
surfaces of the tractor’s front pivot support
Place the PTO in the disengaged or OFF posi- brackets.
tion and set the parking brake. Allow the
engine to cool if it has been run recently. 3. Secure the weight bracket to the tractor’s front
pivot support brackets by installing the clevis
The tractor cutting deck, PTO belt and front pins in the holes above and in front of the
deck stabilizer bracket must be removed prior shoulder bolts.
to mounting the tiller attachment. Refer to the
tractor Operator’s Manual for detailed instruc- 4. Secure the clevis pins with the washers and
tions. hairpin clips.

If the tractor is equipped with front-end acces- 5. Remove the hairpin clip and washer from one
sories, such as a front bumper kit, it must also end of the hold down rod on the weight bracket
be removed. and slide the rod out the opposite side.

NOTE 6. Carefully place the weights onto the bracket.

Record the belt routing, particularly if the trac- NOTE

tor is equipped with a manual PTO.
Exercise caution when lifting the weights and
The use of this tiller attachment requires the placing them onto the front weight bracket,
installation of the weight bracket and three 45 they are heavy.
lb. weights on the front of the tractor.
7. After all three weights are mounted, insert the
Never operate the tractor with the tiller attach- hold down rod into the weight bracket and secure
ment mounted without the weights in place. it with the washer and hairpin clip. See Figure
8-62.
NOTE

Doing so could result in serious injury to the

operator.

Attaching the Weights

1. Remove the clevis pins, flat washers and hair-

pin clips found on each side of the weight
bracket. See Figure 8-61.

Preparing the Sleeve Hitch

GENERAL

Install the electric sleeve hitch kit using the

instructions which are included with it. Addi-
tional installation instructions and a video are
available from MTD.

The sleeve hitch “U” bracket and hitch bracket

2. With the weight hold down rod facing up, posi- assembly will need to be removed from the
tion the slotted portions of the weight bracket

8-34
 sleeve hitch in order to attach the hydraulic
tiller. NOTE

1. If the hitch is installed on the tractor, discon- Take note of the positions of the spacers and
nect the motor pigtail from the sleeve hitch har- washers.
ness. See Figure 8-63. 6. Remove the rod from it’s slotted bracket and
lower the pivot arm to the ground. Set the
hardware aside for later use.

7. Remove a hairpin clip from one end of the

hitch rod.

8. Remove the hitch rod from the sleeve hitch

bracket assembly.

9. Remove and store the pivoting arm for future

use.

NOTE

It will not be used in this application.

10. Reinstall the hitch rod through the sleeve hitch

bracket assembly, and secure it with the hair-
2. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that pin clip.
secures the bottom of the sleeve hitch assem-
bly to the tractor’s hitch plate. 11. Hook the sleeve hitch assembly over the
shoulder bolts of the tractor. See Figure 8-65.
3. Carefully lift the sleeve hitch assembly up and
off of the shoulder bolts, and place it on the
ground.

4. Support the pivoting arm of sleeve hitch

assembly.

5. Remove the hairpin clip from the left side of the

lower cylinder support rod. See Figure 8-64.

12. Reinstall the clevis pin and hairpin clip that

attaches the bottom of the sleeve hitch assem-
bly to the tractor’s hitch plate.

13. Attach the motor connector to the hitch wiring

harness.

14. Retract the motor lift assembly completely

using the toggle switch. 8

8-35
Tiller Installation to the Tractor

1. Set the deck height lever to it’s highest posi-

tion.

2. Remove the six hairpin clips and four washers

from the mounting points of the undercarriage.
See Figure 8-66.

7. Make certain the belt is routed to the outside of

the front left mounting leg of the undercarriage.
8. Use the height selector lever to raise the
undercarriage into position.

9. Fasten the four mounting pins into their holes

with the washers and hairpin clips. See Figure
8-68.
3. Identify the four holes in the bottom lip of the
tractor frame that the undercarriage mounting
pins match up to. The rear holes in the tractor
frame are just in front of the rear cross-mem-
ber. The front holes are 13-3/8" forward of the
rear holes.

NOTE

Make certain that all mounting holes are free of

any burrs or other obstructions.

4. Push the tractor backward over the undercar-

riage assembly, being careful not to run over
the hydraulic hoses.

5. Set the deck height lever to it’s lowest position.

6. Connect the two horizontal mounting pins to 10. Attach the belt to the engine pulley.
the deck hanger links, and secure them with
hairpin clips. See Figure 8-67. NOTE

Make certain the belt is routed the same as the

deck belt.

11. Route the hoses between the two latches on

the tiller hitch link assembly.

12. Align the tractor so the tiller hitch link assembly

slips over the hitch rod, slightly outside of the
bracket arms on the sleeve hitch.

8-36
 NOTE

If necessary, adjust the tiller stand rod until the

correct height is achieved.

13. Remove the hairpin clips and clevis pins which

lock the latches into position on the tiller hitch
link assembly.

14. Reinstall the left clevis pin through the rear-

most hole, in order to hold the latch open. See
Figure 8-69.

19. Remove the clevis pin from the left latch on the
hitch link assembly.

20. Engage the hitch rod into the left latch.

21. Secure the left latch with the clevis pin and
hairpin clip.

22. Set the parking brake.

23. Extend the lift cylinder, with the toggle switch,

until the lower hole is aligned with the mount-
15. Release the parking brake. ing slot in the hitch link assembly.

16. Pivot the lift motor assembly upward, in order 24. Install the lower cylinder support rod. See Fig-
to clear the front cross-member of the tiller ure 8-71.
hitch link assembly. Begin to roll the tractor
back.

17. When the lift motor clears the front cross-mem-

ber, slowly lower it and lift the latch on the right
side of the tiller hitch link assembly.

18. Continue pushing the tractor back. When the

right latch engages the hitch rod, close the
latch, and secure it with the clevis pin and hair-
pin clip. See Figure 8-70.

NOTE

8
The spacers should center the lift motor
assembly between the slotted brackets, and

8-37
 the washers should be held in place outside of
the slotted brackets by the hairpin clips.

25. Check both hydraulic hoses where they pass

through the hitch assembly. Make certain that
they are relaxed and not binding or kinked.

NOTE

Make certain that the hoses will not be dam-

aged by the movement of the sleeve hitch, or
by interference with any other moving parts.

26. Tighten the larger hydraulic hose at the front

face of the tiller, using a 1-1/4" wrench.

27. Tighten the smaller hydraulic hose to the fitting

on the side of the control valve using a 11/16"
wrench on the hose, and a 1" wrench to hold 3. Fill the tiller’s hydraulic reservoir to the “FULL”
the fitting. mark on the dipstick. Use hydraulic fluid P/N
737-3121. The reservoir should hold 4-1/2"
28. Install the hydraulic hose (which was removed gallons of fluid. See Figure 8-73.
earlier) to the front fitting on the top of the con-
trol valve using two 1" wrenches.

29. Check all fittings to make certain that they are

Checking Oil Level

1. Raise the tiller using the toggle switch.

2. Raise the rear wheels of the tractor, and lower

the tiller until the reservoir tank is level with the
ground. See Figure 8-72.

IMPORTANT: Use ONLY a premium grade,

petroleum based hydraulic fluid. The hydraulic
fluid must meet 100-200 SUS, and ISO 18/13
standards. Using hydraulic fluid that fails to

8-38
 HYDRAULIC TILLER COMPONENT REPLACEMENT
meet these standards WILL void the tiller’s
warranty.

4. Raise the tiller completely, start the tractor,

drive it to level ground.

5. Run the tiller briefly to test it and purge the

hydraulic system.

6. Inspect for leaks and check the hydraulic fluid

level. Add more fluid if necessary

IMPORTANT: Cleanliness is essential to the

longevity of all hydraulic components. The fol-
lowing practices will help prevent damage to
expensive items. Damage to hydraulic compo-
nents caused by contamination is not covered
under the warranty.
Make certain that the area surrounding the
Do not use contaminated hydraulic fluid. See hydraulic fittings or components to be discon-
Figure 8-74. nected are clean enough to prevent contami-
nation.

When disconnecting any hydraulic fittings,

have catch pans is place to prevent the spill-
age of fluid.

Keep hands, tools, and work surfaces clean.

See Figure 8-76.

Cover or cap any fittings that are disconnected

to prevent contamination. See Figure 8-75.

Do not use high pressure cleaning equipment.

Only use sealant approved for high pressure

hydraulic applications. See Figure 8-77.
8

8-39
Do NOT use sealant when joining flare fittings. Hydraulic component policy

Do NOT use Teflon TM (PTFE based) sealant The warranty period for the hydraulic pump,
(tape or paste) on pipe thread fittings. These control valve, and motor is one year from the
sealants can be blown out of high pressure date of purchase for non-commercial users.
joints and may damage the hydraulic compo- There is no warranty for commercial use. The
nents. See Figure 8-78. rest of the tiller attachment (including the
hoses) is covered under MTD’s two year war-
ranty with a 90 day no-fault clause. Beyond the
first 90 days, hoses are not covered against
damage other than defects in material or work-
manship.

If the pump, valve, or motor suffer a warrant-

able failure, it is to be replaced as a unit. Com-
ponent parts are not available through MTD.
The only exception to this is the lever bracket
on the control valve. See Figure 8-80.

High pressure hydraulic sealant such as Loc-

tite TM product 545 is the only suitable product
for sealing pipe thread fittings on this tiller.

Proper fluid for this tiller attachment is a pre-

mium grade, anti-wear petroleum based
hydraulic fluid which meets ISO AW-32/SAE
10W viscosity rating or MTD part number 737-
3121 (one-gallon container).

Always use two wrenches to separate flare fit-

tings; one to hold the fixed side stationary and The bracket is available as MTD part number
one to rotate the part to be removed. See Fig- 718-0523 and is secured to the valve with two
ure 8-79.

8-40
screws and thread lock compound, part num- parts, there are other dangers inherent to
ber 710-1503. hydraulic equipment.

MTD will call back replaced components for Read and follow the hydraulic fluid manufac-
inspection. The component will be tested by its turer’s instructions and precautions.
manufacturer to determine the cause of the
failure. If the failure is not due to a defect in Work neatly. Spilled hydraulic fluid is a slipping
material or workmanship from MTD or the hazard, and may contaminate soil and ground-
component manufacturer, the warranty claim water if not properly attended to.
will not be paid.
A high-pressure leak concentrated on a small
Test, don’t guess. area may penetrate the skin, resulting in seri-
ous injury or death.
Due to the expense of the components, unless
the failure is quite obvious, such as a fluid leak, Wear appropriate eye and face protection
perform the tests detailed in the following set of whenever working with a pressurized hydraulic
instructions. system.

A test kit is available through MTD and its Cen- Do not operate a hydraulic system that has
tral Distributors. A security deposit and small leaks (or damage that may result in a sudden
fee will be charged. See Figure 8-81. leak) such as a distorted flare fitting or a hose
with obvious damage to it’s outer layer.

Some of the diagnostic tests described here

put the system under a heavy load. This load
should be maintained long enough to complete
the test, then promptly relieved.

Pressure may be maintained in the system

even after the engine is turned off. Especially if
a component is jammed, and fluid pressure
can not be relieved. This is important to
remember should a foreign object get lodged
in the tines. The tines may turn with consider-
able force when the object is removed. A fitting
that is disconnected under this pressure would
expel fluid under high pressure, and may
cause injury.

Once the hydraulic components are out of war- Never perform any service to the tiller while the
ranty, repairs and/or replacements are at the engine is running or when the system is under
dealers discretion. MTD does not stock pressure.
hydraulic component parts. These must be
purchased through distributors of Eaton or Control Valve Removal
Energy Manufacturing products.
1. Disconnect the three pressure lines from the
Safety is a primary concern when servicing valve using two 1" wrenches. See Figure 8-82.
power equipment. In addition to the dangers
inherent to heavy components with rotating

8-41
2. Hold each 90-degree elbow with one wrench NOTE
while loosening the fitting that is attached to it
with the other wrench. Record the orientations of the valve, filter
head, and 90 degree elbows.
3. Loosen the hose clamp that secures the return
hose to the reservoir. It may be necessary to 5. Loosen all three 90-degree elbows using a 1"
remove the filter if it is blocking access to the wrench.
tightening screw on the hose clamp. See Fig-
ure 8-83. 6. Loosen the adapter, located between the con-
trol valve and filter head, from the filter head
using a 1" wrench. See Figure 8-85.

4. Pry the return hose off of the hose barb on the

reservoir. See Figure 8-84.
7. Remove the four bolts which secure the control
valve to the valve mounting bracket using a
1/2" wrench. See Figure 8-86.

8-42
 7. Check the hydraulic fluid level and fill as nec-
essary. Run the tiller briefly to purge any air
from the system. Check the hydraulic fluid
level and fill as necessary.

Hydraulic Pump Removal

1. With the tractor on a firm, level surface, with at

least six feet of clearance in front of it, lower
the tiller until it rests on the ground.

NOTE

Allow the engine to cool if it has been run

recently.

2. Remove one hairpin clip that secures the lower

cylinder support rod in the slot in the hitch link
8. Remove the control valve and filter head. assembly. See Figure 8-87.

9. Remove the filter head and adapter from the

control valve. Carefully clamp the control valve
in a vice, using soft jaws if necessary.

10. Install the control valve in the reverse order

above.

11. Check the hydraulic fluid level and fill as nec-

essary. Run the tiller briefly to purge any air
from the system. Check the hydraulic fluid
level and fill as necessary.

Filter Head Removal

1. Loosen the hose clamp securing the return

hose to the reservoir. Remove the spin-off fil-
ter.
NOTE
2. Remove the return hose from the hose barb on
the reservoir. Record the positions of the spacers and wash-
ers that locate the lower cylinder support rod.
3. Loosen the adapter, located between the con-
trol valve and filter head, from the control valve 3. Remove the lower cylinder support rod.
using a 1" wrench.
4. Remove the hairpin clip and clevis pin that hold
4. Remove the four bolts which hold the control the tiller stand rod in the retracted position.
valve to the valve mounting bracket using a See Figure 8-88.
1/2" wrench.

5. Thread the filter head off of the control valve

adapter.

6. Install the filter head in the reverse order

above. 8

8-43
5. Extend the tiller stand rod and lock it into posi- 8. Release the right side latch and push the trac-
tion using the hairpin clip and clevis pin. tor forward until the right side latch releases
from the hitch link assembly. See Figure 8-91.
6. Remove the hairpin clips and clevis pins that
lock the latches into position on the tiller hitch
link assembly. See Figure 8-89.

9. Remove the four hairpin clips that fasten the

undercarriage to the tractor frame. See Figure
8-92.
7. Install the left clevis pin through the rear-most
hole so that it holds the latch open. See Figure
8-90.

8-44
10. Lower the deck height lever to its lowest posi- 13. Pivot the lift motor assembly upward so that it
tion. See Figure 8-93. clears the front cross member of the hitch link
assembly. Push the tractor forward until the lift
motor assembly clears the cross member then
gently lower the lift motor assembly.

14. Push the tractor clear of the undercarriage.

See Figure 8-95.

11. Remove the two hairpin clips and clevis pins

securing the undercarriage to the lift links.

12. Lower the undercarriage to the ground. See

Figure 8-94.

15. Loosen the nut that secures the pulley to the

pump shaft, using a 3/4" wrench. Loosen the
nut until the top of the nut is flush with the top
of the pump shaft. See Figure 8-96.

8-45
 19. Remove the large hose from the pump using a
1-1/8" wrench and a 1-1/4" wrench.

20. Remove the small hose from the pump using a

1" wrench and a 11/16" wrench. See Figure 8-
98.

16. Apply upward force to the pulley as near to the

center as possible, and strike the end of the
shaft sharply with a soft hammer or drift. This
should free the pulley from its tapered seat on
the shaft.

17. Remove the nut, washer, pulley, and key. 21. Remove the 90-degree elbow fittings from the
pump using a 1" wrench and a 11/8" wrench.
18. Remove both bolts securing the pump to the
undercarriage using a 5/8" wrench and a 22. Install the pump in the reverse order above.
11/16" wrench. See Figure 8-97.
23. Check the hydraulic fluid level and fill as nec-
essary. Run the tiller briefly to purge any air
from the system. Check the hydraulic fluid
level and fill as necessary.

Hydraulic Tine Motor Removal

1. Park the tractor with the tiller attached on a

firm, level surface.

2. Raise the tiller to the full up position.

3. Support the tine adapter assembly with a one

foot 2x4 with a “V” notch in one end. See Fig-
ure 8-99.

NOTE

The hoses and pump are filled with hydraulic

fluid. Elevate the pump when disconnecting
the hoses and collect any spilled fluid in a
catch pan.

8-46
 NOTE 7. Remove the two large nuts that hold the
hydraulic motor to the tiller assembly using two
Elevate the hoses when disconnecting and col- 3/4" wrenches. See Figure 8-102.
lect any spilled fluid in a catch pan.

4. Disconnect both hoses from the hydraulic tine

motor using a 7/8" wrench and a 11/16"
wrench. See Figure 8-100.

8. Remove the through-bolts securing the tine

adapter assembly to the output shaft of the
hydraulic motor. See Figure 8-103.

5. Remove the hydraulic motor guard using two

9/16" wrenches.

6. Loosen the two 45-degree elbow fittings on the

hydraulic motor using a 1" wrench. See Figure
8-101.

8-47
 lic motor using a pair of 9/16" wrenches. See
Figure 8-105.

9. Remove the hydraulic motor and place it in an

oil pan. See Figure 8-104.
2. Support the tine adapter assembly using a one
foot 2x4 with a “V” notch in one end. Remove
the outer shoulder bolts, lock washers, and
hex nuts from the tines that bend toward the
left side plate of the tiller housing.

NOTE

This will allow the tines to drop beneath the

bottom edge of the tiller housing, providing
clearance for the tine adapter assembly to
slide to the left.

3. Remove the nuts securing the inner bearing

cover to the tiller housing using two 1/2"
wrenches. See Figure 8-106.

10. Remove both 45-degree elbow fittings.

11. Install the motor in the reverse order above.

NOTE

Lubricate the pump shaft with anti-seize com-

pound before assembly.

12 Check the hydraulic fluid level and fill as nec-

essary. Run the tiller briefly to purge any air
from the system. Check the hydraulic fluid
level and fill as necessary.

Removing the Tine Adapter Assembly

1. Remove both through-bolts securing the tine

adapter assembly to the tine shaft and hydrau-

8-48
4. Slide the inner bearing cover to the right to
access the two hex nuts securing the bearing
flange to the tiller housing.

5. Remove both hex nuts securing the bearing

flange to the tiller housing using two 1/2"
wrenches. See Figure 8-107.

8. Slide the tine adapter assembly to the left,

lower and remove it from the tiller housing. See
Figure 8-110.

6. Push the tine shaft into the tine adapter

assembly and remove the bearing flange and
outer dust cap cover. See Figure 8-108.

9. Install the tine adapter assembly in the reverse

order above.

NOTE

Lubricate the pump shaft and tine shaft with

anti-seize compound before assembly.
7. Remove the bearing, O ring seal, and tine
shaft. See Figure 8-109. Removing the Flange Bearing Assembly

1. Park the tractor, with the tiller attached, on firm

level ground.

2. Raise the tiller to the full up position.

3. Support the tine adapter assembly using a one

8
foot 2x4 with a “V” notch in one end.

8-49
4. Remove the through-bolt that holds the tine
adapter assembly to the tine shaft using two
9/16" wrenches. See Figure 8-111.

9. Remove the bearing, O ring seal, and tine

shaft from the tiller housing.

5. Remove the inner bearing cover using two 1/2" 10. Remove the set screw that holds the bearing to
wrenches. the tine shaft using a 1/8" allen wrench. See
Figure 8-114.
6. Slide the inner bearing cover to the right to
access the two hex nuts securing the bearing
flange to the tiller housing. See Figure 8-112.

11. Install the flange bearing in the reverse order

above.

7. Remove the second set of nuts using two 1/2" NOTE

wrenches.
Lubricate the tine shaft with anti-seize com-
8. Remove the bearing cap cover and push the pound before assembly.
tine shaft into the tine adapter assembly. See
Figure 8-113.

NOTE

The outer bearing flange will slide off the tine

shaft.

8-50
 46" DOZER BLADE
OEM-190-822
1. Identify the different components. See Figure
8-115.

Figure 8-117.

Figure 8-115. 4. Align the holes in the pivot plate with the holes
in the welded brackets. Insert the pivot shaft
2. Hooked the notched ends of the high assembly through the holes and secure with hairpin clips.
onto the shoulder bolts on the front of the trac- See Figure 8-118.
tor frame. Secure with the attachment pins.
See Figure 8-116.

Figure 8-118.

Figure 8-116. 5. Remove the plastic cap, knob, and washer

from the blade adjusting spring bolt. Adjust the
3. Remove the pivot shaft from the welded brack- hex nut on the bolt so that it is threaded
ets on the back of the blade by removing the approximately 1" onto the bolt. Hook the spring
hairpin clips. See Figure 8-117. over the spring mount rod. See Figures 8-119
and 8-120.

8-51
 Figure 8-121.
Figure 8-119.

6. Insert the bolt through the hole in the top of the 10. Attach the channel assembly to the tractor by
blade and reassemble the washer and the placing the end of the channel into the pivot
knob onto the bolt. See Figure 8-120. support bracket. Insert the channel pivot pin
through the holes in the pivot support bracket
and channel. Secure with the hairpin clip. See
Figure 8-122.

Figure 8-120.

7. Tighten the knob until it is secure against the

Figure 8-122.
blade and hex nut.

8. Place the plastic cap over the end of the bolt. 11. Remove the hairpin clip from the lift link pin
which is assembled to the pivot support
9. Remove the channel pivot pin, washer, and bracket. Insert the end of the lower lift handle
hairpin clip from the pivot support bracket. See assembly through the notch in the pivot
Figure 8-121. support bracket and through the holes in the
channel. Align the lift link pin with the hole in
the welded bracket on the lower lift handle
assembly. Insert the lift link pin through the
hole in the bracket and secure with the hairpin
clip. See Figure 8-123.

8-52
 Figure 8-125.
Figure 8-123.
12. Remove the clevis pin and hairpin clip from the To Stiffen the Blade Trip Action:
upper lift handle. Place the upper lift handle
over the lower lift handle assembly. Align the 1. Loosen the hex nut on the spring bolt.
holes and secure with the clevis pin and hair-
pin clip. See Figure 8-124. 2. Tighten the knob. See Figure 8-126.

Figure 8-124. Figure 8-126.

ADJUSTMENTS: The normal adjustment of the spring tension is

for the spring bolt to extend 1" through the hex
Skid Shoes: nut.

1. Loosen the two nuts securing the skid shoes to

the blade.

2. Set the shoes to the desired position and

retighten. See Figure 8-125.

8-53
8-54
 POWER EQUIPMENT DICTIONARY
MOWER TERMS CPSC Mandatory Blade Safety Standards:
1
Since July 1, 1982, all manufacturers produce only
Full Baffled Housing: A front and rear welded mowers that comply with the Consumer Products
housing underneath the deck to create an entire Safety Commission mandatory requirements. Basi-
circular deck. This increases the air flow to effec- cally, the blade must stop (either with the engine
tively discharge grass. continuing to run or stopping) within 3 seconds of
the user releasing a handle-mounted control.
Blade Lift: A raised area, behind the cutting tips, There are three acceptable alternatives:
which creates a lift and pulls the grass up to the
blade. The proper lift is more important to the cut- 1. Extended Rope Start, or Manual Restart
ting quality than even a sharp edge. (ERS): When user releases handle control,
blade and engine stop within 3 seconds. To
Vacuum Lift Action: This is created by a combina- start or restart, operator must engage handle
tion of a baffled deck design and the rear lift of the control and pull starter rope, which is mounted
blade. The deep vacuum action lifts the grass for on the handle.
cleaner, sharper cutting and efficient discharge.
2. Battery/Electric Start (EAS): Self recharging
Cloth Catcher: These wide-mouth easy dump battery start eliminates manual type starting.
catchers offer superior bagging performance Simply engage handle controls to start. Engine
because of excellent air flow during cutting and and blade stop when handle control is
allow for maximum fill of the catcher. released. An alternator recharges the battery
as mower is being used. Starter normally
Hard Top Catcher: More durable than cloth-type is requires recharging only first time each season
vented downward and drives its dust into the grass and prior to winter storage. 110 volt recharger
instead of the operator. The hard plastic top pro- included.
vides durability, stability and balance.
3. Blade Brake Clutch (BBC): When user
Hi-Vac Deck: For excellent cutting and bagging releases handle control, blade stops within 3
performance. Brings grass into catcher from top seconds but engine continues to run. Requires
thus creating better air flow plus easy bag fill. starting the engine only once.

Steel Housing: Sheet steel, stamped and formed Rear Drive: A multi-speed drive system. Changing
into a housing configuration (won't crack or chip). drive speeds is made easy by fingertip controls
located on the upper handle. The operator main-
Cast Aluminum Deck: Lightweight and easy to tains full traction/drive control without letting go of
maneuver. Aluminum provides a no rust material the handle.
extended unit life.
Internal Rear Belt to Gear/Chain Drive: An
Rolled Deck (Tapered): Bottom edge of steel enclosed system to power-propel the mower where
housing is rolled under the inside for better control power is transferred to both drive wheels from the
of grass flow and cutting, additional strength, won't engine through a belt to a geared transmission.
snag or damage shrubbery.
Rear Baggers: Rear bag catchers allow grass cut-
9-Position Individual Height Adjustment: A lever ting closer to fences, buildings, trees and shrubs
at each wheel allows setting height of cut for taper from either side of the mower, and can get into nar-
cuts, cut trimming, and cutting extra high grass. rower areas.
The rear wheels should be set one notch higher
than the front for extra high grass conditions. Cog Drive: Plastic pinion that engages cog tire.
Convertible Mower: Converts from rear bagging to Glossary
Single Lever Height Adjuster: Adjusts all four
wheels with one lever. This spring loaded system is Convertible Mower: Converts from rear bagging
our most convenient and easy to operate height to side discharge style mower. Gives the versatility
adjust system. Synchronized all wheel adjustment. of two mowers in one. If a mulching kit were avail-
able the mower would be a three-in-one
 Deluxe Throttle Control: Allows operator to set 4-Wheel Steering (All Wheel Steer): Provides
engine speed without slipping out of position. Has maximum maneuverability by allowing all four
ratchet-setting throttle adjustment. Handle- wheels to turn while steering. Permits near hairpin
Mounted Clutch: Makes engagement of self-pro- turns, the tractor neatly pivots to allow close trim-
pelled mechanism easier. Engages self-propelled ming around small areas. Allows more stability on
mechanism with one hand. slopes, less turf defacement in tight turns.

Handle-Mounted Clutch: Makes engagement of Pivoting Front Axle: Center mounted pivot on
self-propelled mechanism easier. Engages self- rear engine riders, lawn tractors and garden trac-
propelled mechanism with one hand. tors which provides better stability. The pivoting
action acts like an automotive shock absorber
Internal Drive: Results in better straight line cut- which allow the wheels to adjust to uneven ground
ting with less fatigue. Propels chain internally to contour while maintaining an even uniform cut.
rear axle. Helps prevent scalping.

Knurl Drive: Provides positive control and good Ammeter: A gauge that shows whether the battery
traction on wet grass while mowing uphill without is being charged (+) or discharged (–).
clogging. Steel pinion engages a smooth tire.
Belt PTO: PTO stands for power take-off. A belt is
Steel Ball Bearings Wheels: Provides easier the driving force to whatever is to be driven.
maneuverability while operating unit. Steel bushing
is comprised of steel bearings. Promotes longer Electric Assist: Allows the customer to raise or
life. lower attachments by just a flip or a switch.

Self Starter: Mechanical device that runs of the Floating Deck: Instead of being bolted rigidly to
recoil spring. No battery or electric cords required. the tractor, the deck is mounted so that it will move
up and down with the contour of the lawn to pre-
Tractor Terms vent scalping and insure an even cut.

Auto Drive: Foot pedal drive control that drives Hour Meter: Records the running time of the trac-
like a car. tor. Also called Hobbs meter. Should be used in
conjunction with the maintenance schedule in the
Austempered Steel Blade: A special heat treated owner’s manual.
process which increases life, durability, and keeps
steel from being brittle. Height Adjustment with Memory: Use the height
control lever to set the cutting height you want. Set
Clutch/Brake Pedal: Eliminates the need for two the memory latch. Then, each time you go out to
pedals. Synchronized clutch and brake on one cut grass and lower the mower, it will be the same
pedal. height until you change it.

In-Line Shift: Makes shifting gears easier. Manual Hitch: A hitch system that is operated
Straight-line pattern. manually. Takes more effort to raise attachments
than the electric assist system.
Transmatic: Combination of transaxle and multi-
speed drive means effortless, no clutch on the go Single Lever Lift System: Tractor comes with lift
shifting with virtually an infinite number of speeds lever that will raise and lower certain attachments,
available between high and low. including the mower deck and snow/dozer blade,
reducing operator effort.
Hydrostatic Transmission: System which utilizes
a self lubricating oil propulsion design mounted on PTO (Power Take Off): A means of powering an
a hydrostatic drive transmission. Hydrostatic drives attachment using a belt, with the engine as a
hold preset constant speeds even on hills and power source.
uneven terrain. Eliminates clutching for safer oper-
ation. Changing forward/reverse direction without Gear and Pinion Steering: A very smooth type
clutching. steering where a gear on the end of the steering
shaft meets another gear called a sector gear.
Reduces steering effort compared with conven- MISC. TERMS
tional steering. 1
Bolo Tines: Provides better tine wear in hard or
Shift-on-the-Go: A shifting system where you do rocky soil. Steel tines are heat treated.
not have to push in the clutch every time you
change speeds. You simply move the shift lever Flails: “Free floating” steel hammer knives, sharp-
from one gear to another. ened on all edges to cut and pulverize. Chipper
Shredder component.
Sleeve Hitch: Used on garden tractors. After
mounting hitch to tractor, attachments mount to the MPH: Miles per hour speed of air flowing out of the
hitch with a single pin. unit.

3 Point Hitch: Used on garden tractors. After CFM: Cubic feet of air per minute flowing out of the
mounting hitch, attachments mount to hitch at blower chute. This is a better measure of blower
three points. effectiveness. High MPH can be generated through
a straw, but CFM, or volume of air per minute, is
Rear Engine Rider: Used strictly for mowing and more indicative of the units ability to move objects.
some lawn care. You can use light weight pull
attachments. Will not accept snow removal equip- Curb-Hopping: Adjustable front wheels and curb-
ment. Offers excellent frontal visibility. hopping rear wheel allow the edger to be used with
stability close to raised curbs.
Lawn Tractor: Used for lawn care, but will also
take snow removal equipment such as a snow Edging Depth: The edging depth in inches, that
blade and snow thrower. the blade can trench.

Garden Tractor: Will accept ground engaging Chain Drive: Provides more direct power to the
equipment, such as a plow. It will also take the tines. Stamped chain case that is permanently
large pull-type attachments. Usually contains lubricated.
heavy duty transmissions for stamina in towing and
other chores. Depth Bar: Allows full control during operation.
Adjusts tilling depth.
Transaxle: A gear box that combines both the
transmission and differential in the same housing. Dual Direction Tines: Tines move in either for-
Driven by a belt rather than a chain (as used on a ward or reverse direction for optimum tilling in
transmission). Usually has larger gears for heavier either hard or soft soil.
jobs.
Gear Drive: Provides extra weight for deep tilling
Transmission: A gear box with a separate drive and lower center of gravity for greater stability.
chain that drives a differential attached to rear Gear case constructed of rugged cast iron of gal-
wheels. vanized steel.

Turf-Saver Tires: Won’t skid in the grass, thus Reverse Direction Tines: Provides greater stabil-
improving traction and helping to avoid scuff marks ity when tilling and eliminates skipping. Tines rotate
on the lawn. in the opposite direction from the drive wheels.
Also known as counter rotating tines.
Turning Radius: When making a hard left turn
with mower engaged, the amount of uncut grass Differential Gear: A certain arrangement of gears
when the circle is complete. Take 1/2 the diameter, connecting two axles in the same line and dividing
and that would be the turning radius. force between them, allowing one axle to turn
faster than the other. It is used in the rear axles of
Universal Hitch Pin: 1/2 inch diameter for use Glossary
automobiles to permit a difference in axle speeds
with all tractors and riders. while turning curves.

Bushel: One bushel equals 8 gallons.

 Gasoline: We recommend regular unleaded gas. Automotive Type Air Filter (Paper Type): A
Do not leave gas in tank over the winter unless larger filter area (90 sq. inches) than conventional
fuel stabilizer is used; start each season with fresh oil bath sponge filters. Will last longer and does a
gas (don’t use fuel that is over 4 months old). DO better job keeping engine running cleaner, enhanc-
NOT USE Gasohol that is more than 10% alcohol ing engine life. Requires little or no maintenance.
or methanol. For dusty/sandy areas, a washable/reusable pre-
cleaner is available to extend the life of the paper
Oil: Use SAE 30 or 10W-30 weight detergent oil air filter.
(not 10W-40). It is very important to change oil
after the first two hours of use in a new mower and Cast Iron Cylinder Liner: Provides better oil
then after every 25 hours of operation. Always con- retention and superior wear. Dissipates heat more
sult owners guide for fill capacity. efficiently for longer engine life and lower mainte-
nance cost.
Fuel Stabilizer: For all 2 and 4 cycle engines this
product allows for easy starts when put in full tank Mechanical Governor: Internal flyball weights on
of gas and stored during long periods of time. the crankshaft automatically call for more fuel to
increase the engine’s output when more power is
Cutting Height: It’s not recommended to cut off needed, for example, cutting thick, tall grass, help-
more than the upper third of the grass at one cut- ing to keep blade speed constant.
ting. In most grasses the cutting height should be
lower in the cool spring, higher in the hot weather Mechanical Compression Release: A mechani-
in heavily shaded areas. cal device which acts on the camshaft to greatly
reduce internal air pressure during the starting
Mowing Direction: During cutting, mow in a cycle, significantly reducing the effort required to
counter-clockwise manner to prevent clippings start the engine. It closes automatically during
from being recycled into the cutting path. The cut- engine operation to retain full power.
ting blade isn’t forced to pick up wet clippings as it
mows the uncut grass. If mower wheels compact Operator Zone: The area behind the handle
the soil, leaving tracks, alternate the mowing pat- where the user must be positioned when he oper-
tern each time you mow. ates the mower.

Collecting Clippings: Heavy clippings left on the Overhead Valve Engine: Valves are located in the
lawn can smother the grass, preventing needed air head of the engine rather than in the cylinder block
and moisture from reaching the roots. Clippings itself. This enables the engine to develop more
harbor lawn insects, disease, fungi, and are torque (power) than a conventional “L-head”
unsightly. Mulching mowers do not cause this prob- engine with similar cubic inch displacement. It
lem since the grass clippings are cut finely and allows the engine to run cooler and more efficiently
return nutrients to the soil. for longer life.

Spark Plug: Should be changed every spring for Polymer Gas Tank: Prevents rust and condensa-
easier starting and engine efficiency. tion in the fuel system.

Air Filter: Replace the air filter every year, more Positive Lubrication: Oil is pumped to vital
often if needed.This helps the engine start easier, engine parts when the engine is started. Lubricates
run better, last longer and uses less gas. the engine with each turn of the crankshaft.

Mower Blade: Worn blades should be replaced, Horsepower: Horsepower is a technical term
not only for the new cutting edge but also for the lift referring to the rate at which an engine can perform
designed into it that restores air turbulence. A worn work. The larger the horsepower rating of an
blade won’t cut well or bag, causes engine vibra- engine, the greater is its ability to handle the job.
tion, and loss of power.
Solid State Ignition: Solid state circuitry elimi-
ENGINE TERMS nates points and condensers in conventional igni-
tion systems, which become less efficient and wear
Automatic Choke: Method of automatically prim- out. A self-contained module eliminates moving
ing the carburetor for surer starts. parts. In addition, it creates a hotter spark for more
dependable starting. Eliminates costly electrical
tune-ups. Simply change the spark plug.
Top Breather: Prevents oil overflow and maintains Case Drain Line (Return Line): A line returning
lubrication of vital parts when mowing alongside fluid from the component housing to the reservoir. 1
steep grades in either direction at any safe angle.
Muffler Deflector: Protects operator. Deflects the Cavitation: A concentrated gaseous condition
exhaust away from the operator. within the fluid causing the rapid implosion of a
gaseous bubble.
Extended Oil Fill: Makes it easier to add oil to Center Section: A device that acts as the valve
engine. Long tube extends to top of engine. Many body and manifold of the transmission.
extended oil fills feature automotive style dipstick.
Charge Pump: A device that supplies replenishing
Industrial Commercial Engine: Features rugged fluid to the fluid power system (closed loop).
cast iron sleeves, heavy-duty dual element air
cleaner, and heavy duty valves for extended Charge Pressure: The pressure at which replen-
engine life. ishing fluid is forced into a fluid power system.

Pre-Cleaner For Air Filter: Is recommended in Charge Relief Valve: A pressure control valve
dusty, sandy conditions, and extends the life of the whose primary function is to limit pressure in the
air filter, more economical. charge circuit.

Spark Plug Boot: Keeps spark plug clean and Check Valve: A valve whose primary function is to
protects the engine from shorting out when contact restrict flow in one direction.
is made with shrubs or trees. Rubber boot com-
pletely covers spark plug. Closed Loop: A sealed and uninterrupted circulat-
ing path for fluid flow from the pump to the motor
Counter-Balanced Engine: Counterweights are and back.
added to the crankshaft of the engine so that when
the piston moves in one direction, the counter- Decay Rate: The ratio of pressure decay over
weight moves in the opposite direction, reducing time.
vibration for smoother running.
End Cap: See “Center Section”
Displacement: As with automobiles, the only way
to accurately compare their various engines is to Entrained Air: A mechanical mixture of air bubbles
compare their various displacements. The dis- having a tendency to separate from the liquid
placement of an engine is measured in cubic centi- phase.
meters of cubic engines. Displacement is the
measure of the difference in cubic area of the cylin- Gerotor: A positive displacement pump frequently
der when the piston has been fired all the way used as a charge pump.
down and when it is all the way up. It is the area in
which the explosion is made. Thus, the greater this Hydraulic Motor: A device that converts hydraulic
area, the more power is generated. fluid power into mechanical force and motion by
transfer of flow under pressure.
TERMS FOR HYDROSTATIC TRANS-
MISSIONS Hydraulic Pump: A device that converts mechani-
cal forces and motion into hydraulic fluid power by
Axial Piston: Type of design for hydraulic motors producing flow.
and pumps in which the pistons are arranged par-
allel with the spindle (input or output shaft). Hydrostatic Transaxle: A multi-component
assembly including a gear case and a hydrostatic
Bantam Duty: A descriptive term relating to the transmission.
product capacity (meaning: light duty). Glossary
Hydrostatic Pump: See “Hydraulic Pump”
Bypass Valve: A valve whose primary function is
to open a path for the fluid to bypass the motor or Hydrostatic Transmission: The combination of a
pump. Also referred to occasionally as the free- hydraulic pump and motor in one housing to form a
wheel valve or dump valve. device for the control and transference of power.
Inlet Line: A supply line to the pump. Scoring: Scratches in the direction of motion of
mechanical parts caused by abrasive contami-
Integrated Hydrostatic Transaxle (IHT): The nants.
combination of a hydrostatic transmission and gear
case in one housing to form a complete transaxle. Swash Plate: A mechanical device used to control
the displacement of the pump pistons in a fluid
Manifold: A conductor that provides multiple con- power system.
nection ports.
System Charge Check Valve: A valve controlling
Neutral: Typically described as a condition in the replenishing flow of fluid from a charge circuit
which fluid flow and system pressure is below that to the closed loop in a fluid power system.
which is required to turn the output shaft of the
motor. System Pressure: The pressure that overcomes
the total resistance in a system, including all
Pressure Decay: A falling pressure. losses.

Priming: The filling of the charge circuit and closed Valve: A device that controls fluid flow direction,
loop of the fluid power system during start up, fre- pressure, or flow rate.
quently achieved by pressurizing the fluid in the
inlet line. Variable Displacement Pump: A pump in which
the displacement per cycle can be varied.
Purging: The act of replacing air with fluid in a fluid
power system by forcing fluid into all of the compo- Volumetric Displacement: The volume for one
nents and allowing the air a path of escape. revolution.

Rated Flow: The maximum flow that the power

supply system is capable of maintaining in at a
specific operating pressure.
 MTD SERVICE LLC
P.O. Box 361131 • Cleveland, Ohio 44136-0019

Form No. 770-10578 © Copyright 2002 $14.95