FBC Notes
FBC Notes
Syllabus
1. Psychological Factor
2. Social Factor
3. Economic Factor
4. Cultural Factor
5. Political Factor
6. Environmental Factor
7. Physiological Factor
Psychological Factor
Psychological factor is an important factor that influences a person to follow a
trend or may influence the opposite. In other words, everyone follows the jeans and
shirt, but one person prefers to wear pajama kurta (the ethnic wear). So, it
expresses individuality and does not get influenced by society. Likewise, many
times, it gives importance to personal choice instead of following the trends.
Social Factor
Social factor is one of the most significant factors that influence fashion frequently
and expansively. Its area is pretty wide and includes many factors, such as place of
living (urban area or rural area), educational and cultural background, status in
society, gender, profession, and, of course, occasions. These factors, sometimes
influence separately or sometimes collectively.
Economic Factor
Interestingly, fashion is one of the indicators that reflects the financial condition of
a person in his society and economic condition of country in the whole world.
Fashion reflects the availability of raw materials, level of infrastructure, and
technological advancement in a particular country. So, if a country is rich and
developed, fashion in that country will be luxurious. On the other hand, fashion in
developing or underdeveloped countries, is at a very low level.
Cultural Factor
Culture is the traditions and practices that a society of a particular region follows in
a given period in time. Every society has its own culture; hence, not only fashion
influences culture, but rather culture also influences fashion vice-versa. For
example, an old man who always wore pajama kurta (the traditional dress) started
wearing track suits, jeans, etc.
Political Factor
Environmental Factor
Environmental factor largely includes seasons, like the winter season, which have
entirely different clothing styles, influences fashion; the summer season, in this
season, people prefer to wear only light cotton shirts and pants, t-shirts, jeans, etc.;
and in rainy season, people prefer to have differently designed raincoats and other
waterproof cloth.
Physiological Factor
It includes age, skin color, body structure, height of the person, etc. With growing
age, people change their choices. So, fashion is essentially guided by such
principles as well.
Decelerating factors:
These type of designers are produce design following the traditional designs,
colours, silhouette and other design details like embroidery, bead work, etc.
The classist designer is one who is responsible for radical fashion changes in
fashion industry.
IDEALIST
This stare creation is only worthy for ramp shows, not for real life.
INFLUENCED
They are copied from some other designs which was already existing in the
market.
They have very little to offer by their own creativity.
They make some alterations in the existing design and produce the new designs
with their own label.
They don't want to take too much of risk.
REALIST
THINKING
They also supplies lot of creative ideas for other fellow designs.
The thinking designer also holds the responsibility of educating the consumer in
experimenting with unusual fabric choice.
POETIC
• The first activity of this kind of designers is to recognize the choice of consumers
and then perform designers.
They spend more time on accessing real interest and needs of the consumers.
London, Paris, New York, and Milan hold the most important role in the fashion
world. Fashion capitals normally have a wide blend of business, imagination,
amusement, social, and recreation exercises. And are also universally perceived for
having a novel and solid personality.
There are individual reasons as to why these four are famous and considered the
fashion capitals. Let’s know why:
Paris
From the 17th to the 21st century, Paris has remained a fashion capital. Why?
Best designs – Paris has some of the best designers in the world. Namely, Vuitton,
Balenciaga, Céline, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Chloe, Jean-Paul
Gaultier, Hermès and Lanvin.
The Golden Triangle- Dior to Chanel to Yves Saint Laurent. New York has all hot
couture houses.
Paris Fashion Week is a very well-known reason why Paris is a fashion capital. It
is the final fashion week that decides what trends will be present in the coming
season.
London
The language obstruction or absence of it plays a huge part in building up urban
communities like London as the worldwide capitals of fashion. London is full of
individuals from vivid backgrounds, and this multicultural perspective made
originators who are situated in London stick out. This trademark and the
unmistakable items, with regards to fashion, permits London to rival the remainder
of the huge fashion capitals.
London’s DNA has streetwear in it. Its history has a street culture that is visible
across its fashion landscape.
London is fiercely independent and diverse. It is above all when it comes to
diversity across all statures in fashion.
No gender barriers. London fashion breaks all gender barriers. New designers
completely disregard the stereotypical norms of gender.
New York
Paris is not the only trendsetter. New York also is. People living in New York
know how integral fashion is. It is the first to host the fashion week.
Synonym for big brands and high-end lifestyle
Young, cool yet sporty, and saleable touch
Most casual of all the fashion weeks
Milan
One of the “Fours”, Milan has something as so-called Milan houses.
Valentino Garavani
Born in Italy in 1932, Valentino Garavani studied fashion design at a young
age, training in Paris in 1950 and starting his own fabulous line in Rome in 1959
after working for impressive houses like Dessus and Laroche. Valentino is
celebrated for his profound ability to make women look utterly glamourous. The
Italian maestro dressed influential women, such as Jacqueline Kennedy, and goes
down in history for his signature fabric shade, Valentino Red.
Pierre Cardin
The Italian-born Frenchman is praised for his 20thcentury pieces that exuded
a futuristic flair. As Pierre Cardin rose to fame in the age of the space race, his
creations embodied the perfect touch of innovation, inventiveness, and
modishness. His 8bubble dresses9 radiated science fiction, combining earthly
elegance with out-of-this-world colors and avant-garde design
Karl Lagerfeld
One of the most acclaimed fashion designers in the world, Karl Lagerfeld was
born in Hamburg, Germany. As a teenager, Lagerfeld worked at Balmain for four
years before moving to Jean Patou where he became artistic director at 21. His
prolific portfolio now encompasses Chanel and Fendi along with his own house.
Known for his bold designs and constant reinvention, he9s been hailed by Vogue
magazine as the <unparalleled interpreter of the mood of the moment.= King Karl,
the one-man multinational fashion phenomenon
Donna Karan (Born 1948) Full name Donna Ivy Faske is an American Designer.
Globally known for her acclaimed comfort and simplicity integrated fashion
designs of the clothes. In 1988, debuted the DKNY line under the Donna Karan
Co. She was particularly distinguished for her signature bodysuits, dark tights,
fitted jackets, and heavy pieces of jewellery.
Armani (Born 1934) Italian fashion designer, mainly known for an extremely
luxurious, elegant and relaxed style of design. In 1975, he launched his label for
men and women ready-to-wear, later diversified into music, sport and luxury
hotels. He expresses his fashion philosophy as, <I was the first to soften the image
of men and harden the image of women. I dressed men in womens fabrics, and
stole from men what women wanted and needed—the power suit.
Coco Chanel (1883-1971) For almost six decades this French fashion designer
ruled Parisian haute couture. Her stylishly simple designs encouraged women of
fashion to desert the complex, painful clothes, that were prevalent in the 19th-
century like petticoats and corsets. She believed <luxury must be
comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury,= Her designs focus on simplicity and
comfort and later her fashion belief revolutionized the whole fashion industry.
Chanel suit, the quilted purse, costume jewellery, and the <little black dress= are
some of her best innovations and contribution to women fashion. Perfume 8Chanel
No. 59, which she introduced in 1921 became the financial basis of this brand. One
of the most influential, Karl Lagerfeld led Chanel9s couture house with tenure
(1983–2019), after her death
Klein (Born 1942) American fashion designer eminent for his design of jeans,
womenswear, menswear, cosmetics and perfumes, bath & bed linens, and other
fashion collections. He established Calvin Klein Inc. in 1968. He expressed his
design philosophy as <simple, comfortable but stylish clothes—but with nothing
over scale or extreme.= His label clothes were fairly pricey, classic and elegant.
Notably easy to wear and highly appreciated by fashion enthusiasts in the US and
other countries.
Christian Dior (1905-1957) French fashion designer ruled the fashion world during
world war two. He revolutionized fashion and introduced some variety of new
silhouettes, together with H-line, A-line, and Y-line. In 1947, he introduced the
ground-breaking new look, igniting international controversy over its
drastically lowered hemline. The look featured small shoulders, a cinched
waist, and a voluminous skirt.
Manish’s clothing line features a generous dose of glamour through his usage of
contemporary colours, modern embroideries and edgy designs. Popular Bollywood
celebrities like Alia Bhatt, Jhanvi Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor etc., prefer Manish
Malhotra over other designers for his distinctively modern and sensual outfits. He
also won the “Best Costume Designer Award” several times for his stunning
creations in many iconic films like “Kal Ho Na Ho”, “Kabhi Kushi Kabhi Gham”,
etc.
Manish Arora
Manish Arora is a Delhi-based fashion designer renowned for the usage of
strikingly bold colour palettes and Kitsch motifs that transform garments into
wearable pieces of art. Manish started his design career in 1997 after graduating
from NIFT, New Delhi, and launching his label “Manish Arora”. He expanded his
business by launching his flagship store, ‘Manish Arora Fish Fry’.
Fashion experts often regard Manish Arora as the “King of Avant-Garde” for his
sophisticated and modern designs. His psychedelic prints combined with
outlandish patterns exemplify his unique taste and sensibilities. Apart from
dressing up Indian celebrities, Manish also designed outfits for international celebs
like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry etc.
Ritu Beri
Ritu Beri is one of the eminent fashion designers of India who launched her label
in 1990. She is the first in many aspects, including the first Indian designer to be
featured in PROMOSTYL, a style magazine, the first Indian Designer to do a
fashion show in Paris and the first Asian to become the head of a French Fashion
brand.
Ritu was also the protege of the French legend Francois Lesage, and her creative
talent was applauded by many top-league fashion designers of the world. She was
also mentioned as the “First Lady of Fashion in India” by Time Magazine,
indicating her stature in the fashion industry. Ritu is famous for giving an Indian
expression to contemporary clothing and converting them into client-pleasing
ensembles.
Tarun Tahiliani
Tarun Tahiliani is India’s first fashion designer who has created a name for himself
in the global fashion arena. His career in designing began in 1987 after co-
founding Ensemble, India’s first multi-designer boutique with his wife, Shailaja
Tahiliani. Within a short span of time, Tarun emerged as one of the country’s
biggest designers and launched several collections that range from traditional
silhouettes to western ensembles.
Over the last few years, Tarun has also created a mark for himself in the Indian
Bridal Wear segment. His clothing line features a lot of gilded opulence through
various embroidery techniques and fabrics that resonate with the evolving tastes of
his clientele.
Rohit Bal
Rohit Bal is a famous Indian fashion designer who is best known for his use of
traditional Indian motifs like the Lotus, Peacock etc., in his clothing. Rohit was
born in Kashmir in 1961 and started his career in 1986 in New Delhi with Men’s
wear segment. Soon he expanded his collections to women’s wear and accessories
like eyewear, bags etc. Rohit is renowned for using rich and opulent fabrics like
brocades, velvet etc. which lend grandeur to the outfit.
JJ Valaya
JJ Valaya (born 8 October 1967) is an Indian fashion designer and couturier from
New Delhi, India. He founded the House of Valaya, a luxury fashion and lifestyle
house in 1992, along with his brother TJ Singh. A founding member of Fashion
Design Council of India (FDCI) and the first global brand ambassador of Crystal
giant Swarovski. He has been designing for over 20 years. As a fine art
photographer, he released his first book, Decoded Paradox in 2011. In the same
year, he also closed the day one of the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) winter/festive
2011 where he debuted a fashion collection inspired by photography.
Unit:3 Fashion Products and Promotion
The fashion industry and new product development; product mix and range
planning. Fashion and Seasons. Fashion Promotion – Fashion Communication;
Fashion Advertising and Publicity; Personal Selling – importance and steps
involved; Fashion Shows – types and steps involved in organizing a show; Sales
promotion methods /strategies.
this is co-operative advertising and can be useful for advertisers who cannot afford
the full cost (sourced from the Vogue Media Pack).
A fashion brand/retailer can be fairly confident when advertising in specific
magazines that they can match their target market with the magazine target market
and therefore not waste the advertising budget.
PREPARATION OF ADVERTISING FOR APPAREL MARKET
Theme is the subject matter of advertisement. A theme represents a particular
view- point or a central idea with which the message is conveyed to the public. An
advertisement copy should bridge the gap between the advertiser and the readers, if
it is to be effective. To achieve this, the advertisement has to provide the audience
the information that is of interest to them. The two features of
―message‖ are ―message structure‖ and ―message ap eal.‖ Message
structure contains details (selling points) of the products and consumers‘
needs and benefits. A two-sided argument is effective in winning over an
audience. The ―message appeal‖ is the feature which brings about attitude
change on the part of audience. The message appeals can be grouped broadly
into two categories;
The product-oriented appeals:
They may emphasis the physical features or the functions of the product or may
attempt a comparison of the product with the other brands available in the market
The consumer-oriented appeals:
They on the other hand, are directed at the audience‘s attitude, faiths and beliefs. It
may emphasis the attitudinal and behavioral patterns of the audience, the life styles
of the audience or their social image. In actual practice, messages quite often
combine the product appeal and consumer appeal. The theme has an arresting
quality, i.e., it is capable of capturing attention of the people. In selecting a theme,
all necessary information about consumers and about the product to be advertised
must be collected with proper details.
In collecting the details about consumers, information about the attitude and
aspiration of genuine prospect for the product should be particularly known.
Information about the product should include, characteristics of the product,
benefits expected to the consumers and over the rival‘s products. Themes may
change as the market conditions change. The theme or appeal points out the most
important reason or driving force to the purchase of a certain product or service. It
is an appeal based on human emotion, feelings, sentiments, needs, desire etc.
We have the following common appeals with which advertising message can be
effectively communicated, in brief:
The Theme of Beauty
The Theme of Health
The Theme of Pride
The Theme of Comfort
The Theme of Economy
The Theme of Fear
The Theme of Emulation
The Theme of Distinction
The Theme of Affection
The Theme of Patriotism
In modern times, advertising is used by men in various walks of life. Littlefield and
Kirkpatrick observe that:
Advertising is not a game, for here when advertising is done properly and
profitably, both buyer and seller benefit.
Advertising is not a toy, for advertising funds come from sales volume and,
therefore efforts are made to increase sales.
Advertising is not a racket, only few advertisements are designed to deceive,
majority are based on honesty.
Advertising is not an exact science, for the sales are affected by number of factors
such as competitors decisions, manufacturers‘ promotional activities, change in
price, personnel or policies etc. and these factors cannot be controlled as a physical
scientist may control the experiments.
ADVERTISING MEDIA USED IN APPAREL MARKET
Medium is a means through which the advertising message is conveyed to the
consumers. The proper selection of the medium, by which the message is to be
conveyed, must achieve the pre-determined goals. In brief, the following facts,
which affect the media, may be considered:
Should the advertisement reach and influence the largest portion of the people?
Should it be possible to influence the pre-determined group of buyers?
Should it give a wide coverage at less cost?
There are some important factors, which are also to be considered:
The characteristics of the product and its demand
Fund available for advertising.
Nature of the market i.e., different segments.
The nature and extent of competition prevailing.
Medium to be adopted
Coverage of the medium.
The product‘s nature
The position of the product in the market.
Size of the advertisement.
The probable cost of advertising.
The media to be adopted, along with merits and demerits are discussed in detail
below
Indoor Advertising
Press Media
Newspaper (ii) Magazine (b). Radio
(c). Television (d). Film
Outdoor Advertising
(a) Mural (posters), (b) Advertising board, (c) Vehicular, (d) Painted display, (e)
Traveling display, (f) Electric display, (g) Sky advertising, (h) Sandwich-man, (i)
Handbills (leaflets).
Direct Advertising
(a) Sales letters, (b) Circular letters, (c) Booklets and catalogues, (d) Folders, (e)
Package inserts & f) Store publications
Promotional Advertising
(a) Window display (b) Interior display (c) Show-rooms (d) Exhibitions.
1.3.1. Indoor Advertising
When advertising is made through newspapers, magazines, radio, T.V.
Programmers or cinema programmed in Video etc., so that people can get the
message at home, it is known as Indoor advertisement. People read or listen to the
advertisement when they are in door.
People can be benefited by indoor advertising as they can read the newspapers or
see television programmed when they are having leisure time. Indoor advertising
can be studied under the following headings.
Press Media:
Advertisement in newspapers, magazines, journals etc., can be called as press
advertising. It is the most popular and widely used means of advertising. It is the
most economical media of advertisement. Growth of literacy and development of
press also pave the way for these press media.
Following are the Characteristics of press media.
Wide coverage is possible.
Varieties of advertising are possible.
The audience becomes irritated, where more such advertising films are shown.
Only cine goers can be covered.
Outdoor Advertising
Outdoor advertising passes the message to those people who are moving audience.
Generally almost all the people go out on some purpose or other-office, walk,
sightseeing, journey, park visit etc. This outdoor advertising has the best effects of
advertising.
Mural Advertising (Posters):
At present this is a common form of advertising. The posters are made in attractive
colours in brief and printed. The poster is a sheet of paper. The matter is depicted
on it. Then the prepared posters are pasted on walls or boards. Film showers use
this medium for advertising and the posters are pasted in such a manner that they
are projected to the people at bus stand, railway station, marketplace, parks,
libraries, and crowded areas. The cost is less.
It is flexible. It has a short life, because in cities, posters pasted in the morning,
may disappear in the evening by pasting new papers on them. In certain places like
cities, the space has to be hired for pasting posters.
Advertising Boards:
These are also posters, but have better status than ordinary posters. The boards are
fixed at the areas where people frequently assemble. Such boards are fixed at
decent and neat places. They appear more attractive than posters.
Vehicular Advertising:
This moving advertisement finds place on vehicles-buses, trains etc. The vehicle
passes through many place and many people happen to see it.
Painted display:
It is an artist‘s work. This display is large in size. It is visible from a distance. It
finds place at crossings, compound walls or erected structures built of poles or
pillars.
Travelling Display:
These are the advertisements as posters, small in size, written beautifully and
placed inside trains, buses, tramcars, vans etc. The traveling people, in these
vehicles, repeatedly notice it and keep it in their memory.
Electric Display:
Electric display is more attractive. It is popular now-a-days. The beauty and
attractiveness depend upon the skill of electrical engineers. Another method is that
of running bulbs strap and it looks like moving. Such arrangements are common in
big cities. During night time or in dark background, it is more bright and alluring.
It is costly.
Sky Advertising:
Sky advertising and sky writing have become popular. Big balloons with message
written on them or attached to them are allowed to float in the air. Big kites
containing advertisement may be floated in the open air. Sky writing is a kind of
advertising played by the pilot, through aero plane, either by forming smoke or by
illumination. Karnataka State Lottery Agencies have adopted big balloons for the
sake of publicity. The inscription or writing on the balloon will speak about the
products. Almost all the circus companies use the high powered revolving search
lights to attract the attention of the public. All these types of advertisements can be
seen from a long distance.
Sandwich-men:
Sandwich-men are hired by the advertisers. They move or walk down through busy
roads and streets. They dress in a peculiar way with fancy clothes. They carry
posters of the product of the advertisers. They utter slogans. They create certain
type of musical sounds. This sort of advertisement has short life, but is effective.
Cinema theatres usually adopt this method of publicity.
Handbills (Leaflets):
Handbills are common and too cheap. Handbills, which are in the form of leaflets,
are distributed among the people through hired men. Sometimes, music bands are
also played along with distribution of leaflets. Only interested persons may go
through the handbills. The handbill distributor distributes copies of the handbill to
all, who pass nearby.
An uninterested person receives it by one hand and throws it away by the other
hand. This type of advertising is suitable for small business people. Let us discuss
the merits and demerits of this advertising.
Merits
This is the best for local advertising; it has the widest appeal.
It speaks to everyone.
It engages few seconds of people‘s time and need no effort.
It always attracts the viewers, because of its style and colourful appearance.
Its effect is permanent.
It indirectly beautifies the place. With outdoor advertising, crowded places like
Bombay, Calcutta, Delhi, Madras etc., appear beautiful to look on, and at the same
time the unpleasant sights are covered up.
It is flexible.
It is a low cost medium.
Demerits
It has less advantage, compared to other media.
It reduces its value because of brevity.
The effect of prospects cannot be measured.
It can be used only as a supplementary type of advertising.
Direct Advertising
The object of direct advertising is to create a direct contact with the customers. The
advertiser can keep a close touch with the customers or the public, who are
supposed to have interest in his product. He contacts them and keeps a close touch
with through mail advertising. It is a common method. It is also known as direct
mail advertising.
Characteristics of Direct Advertising
Through direct advertising, more or less a personal contact can be maintained.
There is a written form of communication i.e., letter.
Contacts are through post.
Merits
A personal relationship with the customers can be maintained.
Detailed information can be conveyed.
Effectiveness of this system can be measured.
This system is elastic; addition or deletion is possible.
Privacy can be maintained.
It is highly selective; i.e., sending the letters to those, whom the advertiser selects.
It is cheaper.
Demerits
In drafting mail, specialized skill is needed.
It is difficult to maintain an up-to-date mailing list.
The success depends upon the reaching of the recipient.
In many cases, it fetches no attention of the receiver.
Sales Letters:
Sales letters are persuasive in nature. Many firms think every letter that goes out
from the firm is a sales letter, because every business letter aims at an opportunity
to sell the firm‘s product or earn goodwill for the firm. To a certain extent, the
salesman is substituted by the sales letters because the purpose of salesman and
sales letters is the same, i.e., push up the sales. Drafting a sales letter is in the form
of advertising, to create an interest in the mind of the reader. Sales letters are
cheaper and convenient.
them. The products dealt in by the firm are placed at the front of the firm, trying to
create an arousing interest in the minds of them. A good arranged system of
window display naturally increases the sales. It gives a memorizing attitude to the
public, even if one is not entering the shop at the sight of the display.
How should a window display be?
It must be in a suitable position.
The window should not be crowded with items.
Good light and pleasing colours are essential.
Articles in display must be changed often.
It must create attention, attraction, interest, desire and action.
The price tag should be attached to products.
It must always be kept clean and neat.
Merits
It has ―at the point of purchase‖ effect.
It attracts the onlookers.
It is used as an indicator of status to the firm.
Interior Display:
In large-scale organizations, they use this type of display.
Glass-door cupboards, sunglass show-cases are used for internal display. Window
display is arranged outside, but interior display is inside the shop. The related
articles are displayed within easy reach. It is easy for the buyers to get the products
needed by them.
Merits
Purchasing is made easier.
It facilitates to sell allied products.
The whole shop becomes attractive.
It is flexible.
Show-room:
Consumers always insist on prior inspection of the products, which they aim to
purchase. Therefore sellers must provide facility for their inspection. Buyers are
not satisfied with mere publicity. They want to have a close look at the product. In
a show-room, not only the needed products are kept, but different products also.
And this creates an inward interest on other products, when one makes a purchase
of the needed item. In the show-room, salesmen are there to explain about the
prospects. It must be highly decorated and must have good lighting arrangement
with good atmosphere. For instance, textile mills, and firms producing furniture,
refrigerators, television sets, radio sets and other luxurious items must
It Increases the Sales Volume: Advertising increases the sales volume of the
product. Hence mass production is possible. This leads to reduction in the cost of
production.
It Increases the Net Profit: It increases the net profit by a higher turnover of sales.
It leads to higher volume of production. Hence average cost of production is less,
and the profit will increase.
It Stabilizes the Sales Volume: Stabilization of sales volume is possible through
advertising by the process of repetition. Regular and frequent advertising leads to
regular flow of sales. It gives the name, location, products and services of the
selling houses to the public often. During slump period, advertising tends to ensure
a permanent class of customers to buy the product.
It Controls Product Price: Control of wholesale and retail price is possible by
means of advertisement. The needy retailers are overcharged by some greedy
wholesalers. The retailers charge higher prices for the products. Hence the
consumers do not want to buy such products. This will lead to reduction in sales.
Hence manufacturers print on the cover or announce the retail price of the product.
It Helps in Opening New Market: Advertising is helpful in opening or creating new
markets. It helps to get leadership in the market It helps the manufacturers to take
decision whether to expand the market share or not. It also helps them to sell new
products or improved variety of products.
It Maintains the Existing Market: Maintenance of existing market is essential for
the success of a concern. Hence manufacturers, who look ahead, always have an
eye on the future business. As such, by advertising he is very tactful to hold up the
present market and to expand the market.
It Creates Reputation: Advertising increases the reputation of the manufacturers in
the public. It builds the image of the product and goodwill of the manufacturers. It
protects the manufacturers from aggressive selling method adopted by his
competitors. It creates an image in the minds of the customer about his brand.
It Secures More Dealers: Advertising secures more dealers to buy the products.
Due to the goodwill earned from the public, dealers are interested in buying such a
product.
It Is Less Expensive: Advertising is considered to be less expensive. With a
smaller amount of money, advertising reaches many people, and more people will
buy the product.
Wide Information: Wider information of product is possible through
advertisement. Any change in quality or price can be made known by the
manufacturers to the customers as and when it is necessary in a quick manner.
Manufacturers can change the habits and prejudices of customers by tactful
advertising Thus; it helps in establishing and controlling the buyer habits of the
customers.
Advantages to Salesman
Creates a Background: Salesmen‘s mastery and skill satisfy the customers. A well
trained, active tactful salesman‘s job makes easy distribution work. The
advertisement, which is the background, will help the salesmen very much.
Customers know about the product through advertisement. When salesman
contacts them with the product, customers buy the product without any hesitation.
Curtails the Burden of the Salesman’s Job: If the advertising is done by the
manufacturer, the work of salesman is reduced. Otherwise he has to advertise
about the product and then try to sell the product. Salesman‘s function is supported
and supplemented by advertisement. Selling and advertising are ‗cup and saucer‘
or ‗key and lock‘ words. Salesmen‘s work is made easier and more encouraging
by advertisement.
Least Effort: Advertised product can be sold very easily. Salesman‘s time is saved
and he can contact more customers in a shorter period. He can meet many
customers with the least effort.
Consumer’s Needs Can Be Studied: A salesman‘s confidence is increased through
advertising by educating and stimulating the consumers. Customer‘s demand and
needs are studied by him correctly. The manufacturers are informed of this. They
will supply the products according to the demand of the customers and thus
equalize the demand and supply of their products.
Creates Enthusiasm: Advertising reduces salesman‘s job. He can do his job in a
better way to sell the products, crossing the fixed quota. Hence it creates
enthusiasm and confidence in him.
Advantages to Wholesalers and Retailers
Creates Easy Sales: Advertisement informs consumers about the quality of the
product. Hence they know about the product. Sale of that product is easy for the
wholesalers and retailers.
Increases the Turnover: Advertising helps quick sale of the product which in turn
increases the rate of turnover of the product. Thus, there is no question of old
stocks. It reduces the expenses on overhead charges.
Attracts More Customers: Advertising gives detailed information about the product
and the availability of the product in a particular shop. As such, it attracts more
customers in that particular shop.
Increases the Prestige of the Store: Customers know about the store through
advertising. The goodwill or reputation earned by the manufacturer is also shared
by the
Advantages to Community
Increases Employment Opportunities: Advertising generates employment
opportunities directly and indirectly. Direct employment opportunities in
advertising are artists, painters, singers, musicians, writers, photographers,
pressmen, managing agencies etc. it creates mass sales, followed by mass
production which in turn opens the door for more employment indirectly.
Uplifts the Standard of Living: Advertising is an effective tool which raises the
standard of living of the people of advanced countries. The standard of living is
measured by the amount of national income and its distribution and the
consumption pattern.
Advertising gives stimulus to the consumers to buy new variety of products. It
leads to large-scale production of more varieties of products followed by mass
consumption. Thus advertising creates demand for standardized products.
Educative Value: Advertising educates the members of the community in the
various uses of products. As such, people know the varieties of products and their
availability in the market and uses and benefits. Thus it educates the people. People
become intelligent buyers. They become economic buyers. They understand the
merits and demerits of products they come across.
Helps Press: Advertising gives more income to the press. We cannot buy
newspapers at a cheaper rate without advertisement. Commercial advertisement
and broadcasting are undertaken by radios television, newspapers etc. These lead
to the cheaper availability of newspapers.
We can say that advertising is a boon to the producer and consumer. It is very
important for modern trade and commerce. It stabilizes the sales volume and also
the national income. It encourages large-scale production and increasing the profit.
It reduces unemployment.
LIMITATIONS OF ADVERTISING
There are a number of advantages of advertising; yet there are some drawbacks
too. Several criticisms and objections are put forth against advertising. Kenneth A.
Longman, in his book ‗Advertising‘ has mentioned the following charges against
advertising:
Advertising sells people things they neither need nor want.
People are not really influenced by advertising.
Advertising generates senseless proliferation of variety in goods and services.
Advertising results in higher prices.
Advertising is false and misleading.
Most advertising is irrelevant.
Clerical staff Record Sales promotion Display demo‘s Miscellaneous packing dept
publicity dept
Filling Statistics
Voucher Gift Scheme Sales literature estimates schedules
ADVERTISING AGENCY
Almost all good organizations have a separate department for advertising activities
and are known as advertising department. It is headed by an advertising manager.
It is not possible for all the organizations to maintain a separate department.
Moreover, the present era is a stage of stiff competition in the field of marketing.
And this invites specialized hands to deal with the advertising campaign, which is
becoming more complex. Thus the advertising agency has come up. The
advertising agency is a service organization. It is a specialized unit in the field of
advertising. An advertising agency is a group of persons, who are experts on
various phases of advertising and related marketing areas. Such agencies are
slowly progressing in India, where as such agencies in advertising are well-
developed in the U.S.A.
The function of advertising agency is to sell goods and services to their clients,
who have messages to be conveyed to the public. They are specialists who give
expert assistance to their clients. An advertising agency is an independent concern.
It acts as an agent or consultant for the advertiser. In early periods, they sold spaces
to an advertiser and arranged for the publication in the newspaper on behalf of the
advertiser. Now there are various existing and new style of advertising has come
up. The role of advertising agency has been upgraded. Thus, the advertising agency
performs the following useful services.
They develop attractive and cheaper ideas for advertising.
The specialized agency, which has all facilities, such as artists, painters,
photographers, expert personnel etc., can offer the best advantageous services to
the advertisers.
They possess a closer relation with media owners and this facilitates in obtaining
space and timely presentation at a competitive rate.
The burden of advertiser is undertaken by them, so that they are freed and can
attend to other jobs.
The expenditure met by the advertiser for advertising can be turned into productive
expenditure with the help of agencies.
Generally advertiser fined difficulty in the preparation of advertisement copy.
Often they make wrong copy. But the agency prepares the copy quickly and
correctly. This relieves the burden of advertiser.
The agency also does the work of special packing, designing, sales training,
research,
Fashion Retailing
Fashion Retailing is the link or a bridge between the fashionable product
manufacturer and the consumer. Fashion Retailers may buy fashion merchandise
from various manufactures (Vendors) directly import merchandises from all over
the country their own brands. Fashion retailers must constantly be aware of
customer’s desires. They must notice changes in people’s living patterns and tastes.
Retailers must show to put together and accessories an outfit. Students are studying
UG/PG level in fashion design, apparel tech or garment manufacturing, fashion
merchandising have enough chance to choose the fashion retailing as their career
options to become the stores merchandisers, store in-charge, and store manager
with expected emoluments/salary, by gaining wide knowledge and experience to
become the successful entrepreneur.
Functions of a Retailer
Retailer provides the goods that customer needs, in a desired form, at a required
time and place.
• A retailer does not sell raw material. He sells finished goods or services in the
formthat customer wants.
A retailer buys a wide range of products from different wholesalers and offers the
best products under one roof. Thus, the retailer performs the function of both
buyingand selling.
• A retailer keeps the products or services within easy reach of the customer by
making them available appropriate location. at
Scope:
1. Store Management.
2. Category management.
3. Customer Relationship Management.
4. Vendor Management.
5. Inventory Management. 6. Supply Chain Management.
Importance:
1. Helps in economic growth.
2. Provides various opportunities.
3. Provides employment opportunities.
4. Formation of FDI.
5. Improvement of Infrastructure and enhances the availability of
retail space.
6. Transformation of the retail sector in India.
7. Improvement in standard of living.
2. Off-Price Retailer:
The off-price retail model is a replica of the discount retail model. Here, mainly
retailers typically highlight the “normal” retail price alongside their lower price so
customers can see what kind of deal they’re getting. Basically, off-price retailers
are independent of manufacturers and buy large volumes of branded goods to sell
at a reduced cost. Examples include TJ Maxx, Burlington Coat Factory, and
Nordstrom Rack.
3. Discount Store:
They are famous for having lower-than-average prices; a discount store’s secrete
lies in merchandising. Retailer’s objective is to give the feel of offering all their
products for less than the average retail price. Think Dollar Tree, Big Lots, or Five
Below as examples of discount stores. These stores average size is 10,000 square
feet and leverage the loop layout to encourage customers to explore the whole
store. Smaller format stores like TJ Maxx are approximately 30,000 square feet,
while stores like Nordstrom Rack can be upwards of 120,000 square feet.
4. Warehouse:
Costco or Sam’s Club, are warehouse retailers of food and product that offer large
quantities of items at attractive discounts. These stores create a simple experience
and instead focus on moving products in higher volumes. The average warehouse
ranges from 84,000 to 146,000 square feet and generally follows a loop layout.
5. Convenience Store:
They are small in size and offers “quick trip” experiences, convenience stores are
hallmarked with longer open hours and convenient locations. They typically
provide a basic foods and drinks, alcohol, and everyday essentials. Many also have
a fuel station as part of their operations.
6. Big Box/Superstore:
Walmart, Target, Lowe’s, and Home Depot are dominating the big box retail
scene. These retailers (and others in this category) occupy a great amount of
physical space and supply a variety of goods in multiple product categories. For
instance, you can pick up plants, hand soap, mailing supplies, and a new drill all in
the same store. Big box stores typically occupy more than 50,000 square feet, with
typical ranges between 90,000-200,000 square feet. They often have their own
parking facilities.
7. Specialty Store:
As the name suggests that, specialty stores are deep assortment of brands, styles, or
models within a relatively narrow category. Examples include craft stores,
furniture stores, garden centers, sporting goods stores, and bookstores. The average
size of a specialty store ranges depending on the type of store it is. Specialty stores
can use a different types of layout based on the scale of their operations. For
smaller stores, a free flow layout inspires curiosity, while a grid, loop, or diagonal
layout is optimal for medium and larger stores.
Due to the revolutionary changes in the global economy and the growing relevance
of running a business around-the-clock, the retail industry has been going through
a paradigm shift worldwide.
India has organised retail for a little more than ten years. However, it is mostly an
urban phenomenon, and expansion is slowly occurring.
The retail business is heavily impacted by consumerism, the modern world has
become a global village, and technological advancements have created
opportunities and challenges.
With the advent of the internet, the retail sector has grown to benefit economies
and expand business beyond geographical boundaries at both the B2B and B2C
levels.
Although there is a lot of room for firm growth in the Indian retail sector, it is
nevertheless susceptible to a variety of roadblocks and bottlenecks that might slow
the rate of progress.
b. Ethical issues,
c. Technological and
As this is just beginning of retail business, more issues may arise during the full
phased operations.
Organised retailing has started over the past few years as an adventure in almost all
the large cities in India by the developing and growing business organisations. The
population of retail shops and stores in the unorganized sectors as existing today is
very big.
The main areas, which may attach legal and security issues, can be enumerated as
under:
1. Land acquisition,
Of these, acquisition of land is a big issue affecting the legal as well as political
environments at the national level.
b. Ethical Issues:
The coming up of retail business in a big way is likely to create difficulties and
losses to a large population of the society engaged in the retail business since time
immemorial to earn their livelihood.
1. Closure of old stores and shops and making them poor within no time,
2. Snatching the jobs of lakhs of people engaged in these old shops and stores,
Therefore, these issues have to be well taken by the organisations and persons
concerned so as to avoid any adverse situation in the retail management process.
c. Technological Issues:
Retail management is a new venture in the supply distribution chain from original
supplier to the consumers. There are many agencies and channels associated in the
total system. This is a new venture, hence lacks in the latest facilities demanded by
the consumers. There will be difficulties at all the centers in the operations of retail
business. Hence, this will require a massive drive for the technological
developments in all the service centers from original suppliers/farmers, retail shops
staff and executives to the end consumers.
d. Non-Store Retailing:
The newly formed retail management companies like, Reliance, Guardian Lifecare
Private Limited etc. have started bringing the goods straight from the
manufacturers or farmers to the retail centers, from where the same are supplied to
the consumers directly, instead of keeping the same in an interim store room for
further work of cleaning, washing and packing etc.
Thus, these are the various jobs to be done at the retail centers subsequent to the
bringing of the goods from the original suppliers. This will increase the workload
and may create a mess in the supply distribution chain.
E- retailing
E-retail or online retail is defined retailing activities done through internet. We
have many online or e-retailers in India who provide a variety of merchandise to
customers. In general retail business is referred as Business to Consumer (B2C).
Online retail players are classified into two types category focused players and
multi category focused. Category focused players provide particular
merchandise with deep assortment. Ex: - Myntra, Jabbong (Apparels and
Lifestyle products), Bigbasket, Local banya (Grocery segment) and Fabfurnish,
Pepper fry (Furniture), Carat lane,Juvalia and you (jewellery), First cry, my baby
cart (baby products). Multi category players provide variety of merchandise with
limited assortment. Ex: - Flipkart, Amazon, Future bazar and Snapdeal etc..
Pricing Strategies
Retailers generally employ two pricing strategies: (1) everyday low pricing and (2)
high/low pricing. The benefits and drawbacks of each of these tactics are described
in this article.
High/Low Pricing
Through sales campaigns, retailers who use a high/low pricing strategy frequently
—often weekly—discount the initial prices of goods. Some shoppers, on the other
hand, get used to regular reductions and just wait for the items they want to go on
sale before stocking up at the reduced costs. This type of pricing strategy is utilised
by numerous large businesses (including, in North America, Reebok, Nike, and
Target). The fashion and shoe industries compete in part through high-low pricing
(Macy's, Nordstrom, etc.).
Everyday low pricing is a little deceptive because low doesn't necessarily mean
"lowest." Although EDLP-using shops aim for low pricing, they aren't always the
best deals available. A sale price at a high/low store could be the lowest price
offered in a market at any particular time. True EDLP retailers, such as Walmart,
Costco, or Target, almost never offer discounts because they have already beaten
the industry prices.
Price Elasticity is commonly used to measure price sensitivity. This is the ratio of
the percentage change in quantity sold to the percentage change in price.
Competition: Customers have a wide range of options for products and services,
and they frequently look for the best deal. As a result, when setting their own
prices, retailers must take their rivals' into account.
Retailers have the option of pricing higher, lower, or online with their rivals. The
selected Pricing policy must be in line with the overall strategy of the retailer and
its comparable market standing. Consider Walmart and Tiffany & Co. as examples.
Walmart strives to undercut its rivals' prices on the goods it sells. Tiffany, in
contrast, provides its clients with important advantages that go beyond the products
themselves. Customers are ensured by the company's brand name and customer
care that they will be happy with the products they buy. Tiffany is able to charge
more than rivals because of the distinctiveness of its offering.
Unit:5 Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable Fashion – meaning and significance; Environmental concerns related
to fashion; Linear fashion and circular fashion; 4R’s in sustainability – Repair,
recycle, reuse and reduce. Moving towards sustainable fashion - Eco fashion, Slow
fashion; Environmental impact of fast fashion.
Brands can break their sustainable practices down into four areas.
Ethical Fashion: This covers production, working conditions and Fair-Trade
practices. Ethical fashion is a moralistic stance a company takes to ensure no
human beings or animals are hurt due to their manufacturing practices.
Circular Fashion: This is an off shoot of the circular economy, and advocates that
all materials and products in society are used and circulated among people for as
long as possible, in an environmentally safe, effective and fair manner. This
encompasses things like recycling, upcycling, and thrifting.
Slow Fashion: Slow fashion is the antithesis of Fast Fashion, taking a long-term
view and considering the whole product lifecycle. This includes sharing or renting
clothes as well as the quality of garments to help them last longer and thus reduce
the need to buy new ones.
The fashion industry is very harmful to our planet. Second to oil, the industry is
one of the world’s largest polluters, responsible for 20% of global industrial water
pollution.
It comes as a surprise to many that most clothes are actually made out of plastic,
creating a microplastic disaster in the making. Thousands of harmful chemicals are
used in the textile mills around the world, which are dangerous to both the
environment and the people working with them, and the time has come for a global
change in the industry. That change must come in the form of sustainable fashion.
As the fashion industry moves towards sustainability, there are a lot of big changes
ahead for businesses, changes we can help with.
A commitment to sustainability shouldn’t just be buzzwords and vague slogans,
which is why we are 100% committed to renewable, ethical, and eco-friendly
practices.
With decades of experience in the industry, we work together with our clients,
manufacturers, and distributors to ensure a fair and sustainable practice for
everyone.
The fashion industry has a disastrous impact on the environment. In fact, it is the
second largest polluter in the world, just after the oil industry. And, the
environmental damage is increasing as the industry grows.
Putting the environmental perspective at the center, rather than the logic of the
industry, is thus an urgent concern if fashion is to become more sustainable. The
Earth Logic fashion research action plan argues for "putting the health and survival
of our planet earth and consequently the future security and health of all species
including humans, before industry, business, and economic growth."[83] In
making this argument the Earth Logic plan explicitly connects the global fashion
system with the 2018 Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) Special
Report on Global Warming of 1.5 °C.
Furthermore, the Earth Logic fashion research action plan sets out a range of
possible areas for work in a sustainable fashion that scientific and research
evidence suggests are the most likely to deliver a change of the scale and pace
needed to respond to challenges like climate change. Earth Logic's point of
departure is that the planet, and its people, must be put first, before profit. It
replaces the logic of economic growth, which is arguably the single largest factor
limiting change towards sustainable fashion, with the logic that puts earth at its
center.
Environmental hazards
The clothing industry has one of the highest impacts on the planet. Cotton requires
approximately 15,000 liters of water to grow for a pair of jeans. High water usage,
pollution from chemical treatments used in dyeing and preparation and the disposal
of large amounts of unsold clothing through incineration or landfill deposits are
hazardous to the environment. There is a growing water scarcity, the current usage
level of fashion materials (79 billion cubic meters annually) is very concerning
because textile production mostly takes place in areas of fresh water stress. Only
around 20% of clothing is recycled or reused, huge amounts of fashion product end
up as waste in landfills or are incinerated. It has been estimated that in the UK
alone around 350,000 tons of clothing ends up as landfill every year. According to
Earth Pledge, a non-profit organization committed to promoting and supporting
sustainable development, "At least 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials
into textiles and 25% of the world's pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton.
This causes irreversible damage to people and the environment, and still two thirds
of a garment's carbon footprint will occur after it is purchased." The average
American throws away nearly 70 pounds of clothing per year. Around 5% of the
total waste worldwide stems from the textile industry, the clothing section of the
textile industry has elevated the amount of waste contributing to global waste.
Linear fashion
Fashion currently operates under a linear fashion model designed to maximize the
production and consumption of clothing. In a linear economy, we excessively take
resources (mostly synthetics made from crude oil), make products, use them
briefly, and when we no longer want them, we throw them away and repeat the
process. Most garments aren’t currently made to be recycled, reused, repurposed,
or biodegradable, so most textiles end up in landfills or are incinerated.
circular fashion
Circular fashion is a holistic design approach rooted in Indigenous ancestry that
aims to “design out waste” by reducing the number of natural resources used to
make our clothing and diverting products from landfills. In short, circular fashion
(a closed-loop system) is making new materials out of old materials.
Fashion’s linear model needs radical transformation, and circularity offers just that.
In a circular system, fashion could overcome the global apparel industry's most
pressing issues, including climate change, pollution, and waste, while
simultaneously creating opportunities for responsible growth.
4R’s in sustainability
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Repair are also known as “the most important 4R’s”
of waste management. The concept of 4R’s is to decrease the amount of things we
use and
simultaneously also decrease the amount of things we throw away. Since we have
limited
space on earth to dispose all the waste, it is important to use the resources
efficiently and
create less waste. The 4Rs play an important role in solving the problems which
can arise
out of wrong waste management habits.
Reduce
Reduce/Reduction: To make something smaller or use less, resulting in a smaller
amount of
waste. Waste reduction simply means reducing the things that we use and only
consume
what is necessary. This way the amount of waste that is created in the end is
reduced
and avoids going to the dump. This also reduces the pressure on natural resources
which
are utilized in treating the waste as well as natural resources which are required to
manufacture new things. Reducing things that we use can also save a lot of money
since we
stop buying the product entirely. For instance, we can reduce the consumption of
bottled
water and instead carry a steel bottle to avoid sending the used bottles to
landfill/recycling
plant. Also, avoid buying new toys frequently, rather, build toys to play with.
Reuse
Reuse is a method or a practice of using something again. This can be done to use
the
product for its original purpose or to fulfil a different function. Reusing a product
more than
one time benefits us as well as the environment. Reusing also helps in saving time,
money,
energy and resources. For example, there are glass jars at home in the kitchen.
These jars
are used multiple times after being empty. Old books can be used by other people
after
being used once. The book can be used for reading or the paper of the book can be
used
for other purposes if it is a notebook. Use cloth gift bags and stop ripping the paper
off
gifts . If you remove the wrapping paper carefully, you can use it again.
Recycle
Recycling is one of the key components in the waste management system. It is the
process of converting waste materials into new materials and objects. It is the
practice of
reprocessing and reusing the items in the same or a different form which otherwise
could
have been discarded as waste. This process saves a lot of time, energy and
resources and
money. It also reduces the consumption of natural raw material used to produce
things.
It is thus important to buy recycled as well as recyclable products in order to
reduce the
pressure on the environment. For example, your old notebooks can be recycled into
recycled paper and then used again to bind notebooks.
These are some things that can be recycled: • Aluminium Cans • Building
Materials
• Cardboard • Electronic Equipment • Glass (particularly bottles and jars) • Lead •
Magazines • Metal • Newspapers • Paint • Paper • Plastic Bags • Plastic Bottles •
Steel
Cans • Tyres • Writing/Copy Paper • Garden Waste
Repair
These days, we find it easier to buy a new product than to repair and use an
existing
product. This is true of especially electronic goods like mobile phones and
domestic
appliances, which can last a long time if repaired when necessary. Reducing,
reusing and
recycling, decrease both the demands on natural resources, as well as the rate at
which
they are consumed. Fewer resources are used and supplies that are limited are
conserved.
In addition, less waste is generated, thereby reducing the amount of trash that must
be
landfilled or incinerated. As the amount of trash buried or burned decreases, so too
does
the potential for water and air pollution which can occur as a result of burning or
improper
disposal of waste. Our world has a limited supply of natural resources, including
land used
for landfills. All these techniques help us conserve such natural resources.
When it comes down to the garments themselves, their durability depends on their
use and "metabolism"—certain garments are made to withstand long use (ex.
outdoor and hiking wear, winter jackets) whereas other garments have a quicker
turn-around (ex. a party top). This means some garments have properties and a use-
life that could be made more durable, whereas others should be compostable or
recyclable for quicker disintegration. Clothing that aren't sold in markets become
solid waste clogging areas of water and ultimately creating "the potential for
additional environmental health hazards in LMICs lacking robust municipal waste
systems" Some garments age well and acquire a patina and a romantic
enchantment not unlike the wonder, fascination and grandeur of historical ruins,
whereas the derelict and discarded rags of last season is an eyesore and nuisance;
the first connotes a majesty of taste, whereas the second is the underclass of waste.
Fast fashion
One of the most apparent reasons for the current unsustainable condition of the
fashion system is related to the temporal aspects of fashion; the continuous stream
of new goods onto the market, or what is popularly called "fast fashion." The term
fast fashion is used to refer to the fast paced production of goods at an unethical
level which often has a negative impact on the environment. As a way to conform
to the latest fashion styles and keep consumers wanting new garments, current fast
fashion trends pre-suppose selling clothing in large quantities. Due to fast fashion
being affordable and able to keep up with the trends, there has been an increase in
apparel consumption. Consumption has risen to 62 million tonnes annually and is
projected to reach 102 million tonnes by 2030. This type of fashion is produced in
vast quantities with low-quality materials and are sold through chains such as
H&M, Zara, Forever21, Shein, etc. Fast-fashion retailer Shein is one of the most
visited fast-fashion websites in the world and ships to 220 countries, however,
there are questions about Shein's ethics and sustainability as it was responsible for
about 706 billion kilograms of greenhouse gases in 2015 from the production of
polyester textiles and uses up hundreds of gallons of water per garment.
Additionally, leaving an aftermath of 6.3 million tons of carbon dioxide while
missing 45% of the UN's goal to reduce carbon emissions by 2030. In January
2021, Shein offered over 121,000 garments made from polyester, making up 61%
of their clothing total. The fashion industry has a value of three trillion dollars. It is
two percent of the world's gross domestic product (GDP) - the total monetary or
market value of all the finished goods and services produced within a country's
borders in a specific time period. Out of the three trillion dollars, the majority is
made of fast fashion.
"Slow" fashion
Slow fashion can be seen as an alternative approach against fast fashion, based on
principles of the slow food movement. Characteristics of sustainable fashion match
the philosophies of "slow fashion" in that emotional, ecological and ethical
qualities are favored over uniform and bland convenience with minimal friction. It
requires a changed infrastructure and a reduced through-put of goods.
Categorically, slow fashion is neither business-as-usual nor just involving design
classics. Nor is it production-as-usual but with long lead times. Slow fashion is a
vision of the fashion sector built from a different starting point. Slow fashion is a
fashion concept that reflects a perspective, which respects human living conditions,
biological, cultural diversity and scarce global resources and creates unique,
personalized products.
The term Slow Fashion came about quite organically. It was coined by Kate
Fletcher of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, following the phenomena of the
slow food movement. As with the slow food movement, Fletcher saw a need for a
slower pace in the fashion industry.
Examples of stability of expression over long times are abundant in the history of
dress, not least in ethnic or folk dress, ritual or coronation robes, clerical dress, or
the uniforms of the Vatican Guard. The emphasis on slowness in branding is thus
an approach that is specific for a niche in the market (such as Western-educated
middle-class) that has since the 1990s become dominated by "fast" models. One of
the earliest brands that gained global fame with an explicit focus on slow fashion,
the Anglo-Japanese brand People Tree, embraces the concept of ethical trade,
manufactures all products in accordance with ethical commerce standards, and
supports local producers and craftsmen in developing countries. The People Tree
brand is known as the first fashion company to receive the World Fair Trade
Organization product label in 2013, demonstrating their dedication to fair trade and
the environment.
The concept of slow fashion is however not without its controversies, as the
imperative of slowness is a mandate emerging from a position of privilege. To stop
consuming "fast fashion" strikes against low-income consumers whose only means
to access trends is through cheap and accessible goods. Those who are already
having a high position in society can afford to slow down and cement their status
and position, while those on their way up resent being told to stay at the lower
rungs of the status hierarchy. "The prestige of slowness allows a cultural signifier
for those already have social positions to preserve, and have time and money to
take it easy and enjoy the pleasures of reflection and meditate over their moral
superiority."
In her book, No Logo, Naomi Klein argues that developing nations are viable for
garment industries due to ‘cheap labour, vast tax breaks, and lenient laws and
regulations’. According to The True Cost, one in six people work in some part of
the global fashion industry, making it the most labour-dependent industry. These
developing nations also rarely follow environmental regulations; China, for
example, is a major producer of fast fashion but is notorious for land degradation
and air and water pollution.