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Lego Table

This document provides instructions for building a DIY LEGO table with storage. It includes a cut list of materials needed and step-by-step instructions with diagrams. Wood boards are cut according to the list and assembled using pocket holes and screws to form the table frame, base, and top. A hardboard sheet is cut to size for the tabletop. Safety equipment is recommended and the builder can contact the author with any questions.

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Zé Paulo
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
283 views11 pages

Lego Table

This document provides instructions for building a DIY LEGO table with storage. It includes a cut list of materials needed and step-by-step instructions with diagrams. Wood boards are cut according to the list and assembled using pocket holes and screws to form the table frame, base, and top. A hardboard sheet is cut to size for the tabletop. Safety equipment is recommended and the builder can contact the author with any questions.

Uploaded by

Zé Paulo
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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DIY LEGO TABLE

WITH STORAGE
For more photos and a step-by-step tutorial, see this post:
www.bybrittanygoldwyn.com/diy-lego-table-with-storage/

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 1


LUMBER
DIMENSIONAL LUMBER:
(1) 2" x 2" x 8'
(2) 1" x 3" x 8'
(1) 1" x 2" x 2'
(3) ½" x 2" x 4'

OTHER:
108" of ⅜" x ⅜" trim pieces
4' × 8' sheet of ¼″ hardboard

TOOLS
Saw Orbital Sander
KregJig K4 Drill

MATERIALS
Wood glue 1 ¼" pocket hole screws
Finishes Safety equipment
Bar clamps Hammer and small nails

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 2


LUMBER
TOP FRAME:
A: (4) ⅜" x ⅜" x 11 ⅜"
B: (4) ⅜" x ⅜" x 15 ⅜"
C: (2) 1" x 3" (actual: ¾" x 2 ½") x 29 ⅜"
D: (2) 1" x 3" (actual: ¾" x 2 ½") x 16 ⅛"
E: (1) ½" x 2" (actual: ½" x 1 ½") x 16 ⅛"
F: (2) ½" x 2" (actual: ½" x 1 ½") x 29 ⅜"
G: (2) ½" x 2" (actual: ½" x 1 ½") x 18 ⅛"

BOTTOM FRAME:
H: (2) 1" x 3" x 15 ¼" ends cut at 10° facing toward one another; the
measurement is at the widest part.
I: (2) 1" x 3" (actual: ¾" x 2 ½") x 24 ¼"
J: (1) 1" x 2" (actual: ¾" x 2 ½") x 16 ⅛"

LEGS:
K: (4) 2" x 2" (actual: 1 ½" x 1 ½") x 19 11/16" with ends cut at 10° parallel to
one another. Adjust the length based on your desired height.

TOPPER:
L: (1) ¼" x 26 ⅛" x 17 15/16"

I recommend checking board thickness. For example, 1 x 3 boards are usually ¾ x 2 ½. I also
recommend double checking that cuts fit perfectly together as you build. Dimensional
lumber sizes can vary slightly, which can make a big difference in a build like this!

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 2


Safety first! Remember to wear a mask, eye, and ear protection while cutting and sanding
wood. Do not use any tools without proper training, precautions, and/or supervision.
Please read through the entire plan before beginning. Read my full terms of use here.

STEP 1.
Cut pieces according to cut list and drill pocket holes as follows:
(2) horizontal pocket holes on the ends of each D piece
(2) horizontal pocket holes on the ends of the J piece
(2) horizontal pocket holes on the end of each H and I pieces
(3) vertical pocket holes in each H and I pieces

C L
D J

A B
H E G
I F

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 3


STEP 2.
Drill screws through pocket holes to form a frame using the C and D
pieces. Glue piece E in the center of the frame flush with the bottom.
Piece E is only serving as a spacer right now.

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 4


STEP 3.
Create two frames by gluing pieces (2) A pieces and (2) B pieces
together. The A pieces should cap off the B pieces. Once dry, glue these
frames into place flush with the bottom of the main frame. Reinforce
using a hammer and small nails.

A
B

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 4


STEP 4.
Glue the F and G pieces on top of the main frame flush with the
perimeter of the frame.

F
G

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 4


STEP 5.
Create the base by assembling the bottom frame and legs. Drill screws
through the horizontal pocket holes on the ends of the H and I pieces
into each leg (K pieces). 

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 5


STEP 6.
Flip the assembled top frame upside down. Attach the base to it by
drilling screws through the vertical pocket holes on the H and I pieces
(red arrow) up into the bottom of the top frame.
Place the J support piece under the spacer (piece E) you glued into the
top frame in step 2. Attach J using screws through the four pocket
holes; see red circle below.

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 5


STEP 7.
Cut piece K. Use a drill and a 5/8" spade bit to drill a finger-pull hole on
one end. Set it down into the table's top frame to ensure it fits; sand
edges down as necessary for a good fit.

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 5


QUESTIONS?
You can contact me via email any time: bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com

LET ME KNOW...
Let me know what you think on social media! I would love to hear from
you. You can also tag me in your posts for a chance to have your project
featured. I can't wait to see what you make.

www.instagram.com/brittanymerth
www.facebook.com/bybrittanyg
www.pinterest.com/bybrittanyg

©by Brittany Goldwyn | bybrittanygoldwyn.com | bybrittanygoldwyn@gmail.com | 1

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