12 Dropped shoulder

Body section
Trace body section of block required.
Mark points A and B at pitch points on body block.
Extend shoulder to shape required.

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Mark points C and D at base of extended shoulder.
SleeveTrace one-piece sleeve block.
Mark points E and F at pitch points on sleeve block, G at sleeve head.
E–H the measurement A–C on back body section.
F–J the measurement B–D on front body section.
G–K the measurement the shoulder has been extended.
Draw new sleeve head H, K, J.
12a With flared sleeve
The new sleeveshapecanbe gatheredor flared or gatheredandflared to
create different styles.
13 Extended sleeve with yoke
Body section
Trace body section of block required.
Mark points A and B at pitch points on body block.
Draw in yoke lines; mark pointsC andD at armholeedge.Traceoff yoke
sections.
SleeveTrace one-piece sleeve, cut up centre line.
Mark points E and F at pitch points on sleeve block.
E–G the measurement A–C on back body section.
F–H the measurement B–D on front body section.
Back yokePlace sleeve to yoke matching point C to G.
Front yokePlacesleeveto yoke with point H oppositeP andsleevehead
touching shoulder point.
The top of the sleeveheadwill rise abovethe shoulderon both yokes,
raiseshoulderline at armholeedgeto makea smoothcontinuousline at
the sleeve head.
Front bodiceD–J the measurement D–H on yoke.

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Draw new armhole shape.
Note For deepyokesusethe ‘flat’ kimono block and part of the dolman
sleeveadaptation.This is becauseplacing deepyokes to a sleevehead
creates problems.

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204
14 Raglan sleeve
Body section
Trace body section of block required.
Add to back shoulder line:
98–116cm height 0.3cm
122–140cm height0.6cm
146–170cm height0.9cm.

Remove the above amount from front shoulder line.

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Mark A and B at new shoulder points.
A–C and B–D98–116cm height 2.25cm
122–140cm height2.5cm
146–170cm height2.75cm.

Mark E and F at pitch points on body block. E–G 1cm.

Mark H on front armhole directly opposite point G.
Draw curvedlinesfrom C–GandD–H; drawdarton backshoulder,sizeis
amount of shoulder ease (overgarments only).
Cut off shaded sections. Close back shoulder dart.
SleeveTraceone-piecesleeveblock; draw centreline of sleeve.Mark J at
sleevehead;J–K is the amountaddedto the back shoulder;squaredown
from K.
Mark L and M at pitch points.
L–N the measurement E–G on back body block.
M–P the measurement F–H on front body block.
Cut up line from K.
Place back body section to back sleeve; place G to touch N; place
shoulder point to touch sleeve head.
Placefront bodysectionto front sleeve;placeH to touchP; placeshoulder
point to touch sleeve head.
Add 0.5cm to the centre line of each sleeve.
Mark point 0.5cm down from the top of the sleeve head.
Draw shoulder lines to Q with curved lines as shown.
15 Flared raglan sleeve
Mark points A and B at the centreof the necklineon the back and front
sleeve.
Draw curved lines to the hemline. Cut up the lines.

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Place back and front sleeve together; open approx. 4cm at the hemline.
Open the curved lines approx. 4cm at the hemline.
Shorten neck dart 3cm.
Shape up hem 1cm at outer edge.
NoteThe sleeve can be gathered onto a cuff.
16 Easy-fitting raglan sleeve
Complete adaptation for lowered armhole.
Body section
Adapt shoulders as for raglan sleeve.
Mark points A, B, C, D.
Mark E at back pitch point, F at front pitch point.
Mark G on back armhole directly opposite point F.
Draw curvedlinesfrom C–GandD–F; drawin darton backshoulder,size
is amount of shoulder ease.
Cut off shaded sections. Close back shoulder dart.
SleeveAdapt centre line of sleeve as raglan sleeve.
Mark H at sleeve head, J and K at sleeve pitch points.
J–L The measurement E–G on body block.
Completethe adaptationfor the classicraglan placing G to L on back
sleeve and F to K on front sleeve.

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208
209
 Cuffs
1 Straight cuffs
If a sleevepatternis thefinishedlengthrequired,shortensleevepatternby
the measurement of the cuff depth.
la Shirt cuffA–B cuff size plus 2cm; square down.
A–C twice cuff depth; square across.
A–D and B–E lcm; square down.
Draw the fold line through centre.
Mark buttonholes and button placings on the lines as shown.
lb Simplestraightcuff This cuff is similar to the shirt cuff but it hasno
opening.
Construct pattern as for the shirt cuff but make the following alterations.
Long sleeve
A–B is cuff size, omit buttonstand lines and button placings.
ShortsleeveA–B top arm measurementplus 3cm, omit buttonstandlines
and button placings.
2 Sleeve facing (mock cuff)
Trace round lower edge of sleeve with straight hem line.
Draw in line of facing on sleeve.
Trace off facing.
3 Attached cuff
Trace round lower edge of sleeve with straight hem line.
Mark A and B at side seam.
A–C twice cuff depth; square across.
Mark fold line through centre.
C–D facing depth (approx. 3cm);

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square across.
Fold backcuff andfacing to finishedposition;tracethroughsideseamto
obtain cuff shaping.
4 Shaped cuff
This cuff is attached to a straight hem line.
A–B depth of finished cuff; square across.
A–C the measurement of base of the sleeve; square down.
Divide rectangle into six sections; square down.
Cut up linesfrom outeredge;openout top edgeto width requiredat top of
cuff.
Trace round new shape.

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212
Part Three: standard pattern cutting processes (birth–14 years)
Chapter 10
Constructing openings, collars and hoods
Sizes 56–170cm height

Front openings
In patterncuttingthecentrefront is a stablepositionandcannotbemoved.
Any movementwill alter the fit of the garment.Caremustbe takenwhen
addingstrapsandfacings.Thefront of girls’ garmentsoverlaptowardsthe
left, and boys’ garments towards the right.
Garments designed for both sexes usually have centre openings.
If the neckline requireswidening or lowering, this must be done before
drafting front openings.Garmentsin the smallersizesare often designed
to haveloweredand widenednecklinesas they offer easierdressingfor
toddlers.
1 Standard front and extended facing
a. Standard front Mark buttonholeson centre front line (buttonholes
overlap the line by 0.2cm). Add buttonstandapprox. 2cm (varies with
sizes of button).
Draw in back and front facings.
Traceroundneckedges,front edgeof patternandfacinglines to construct
facings.
b. Extended facing
Mark buttonholes; add buttonstand.
Fold front edgeline, tracethroughfacing line andnecklineto constructan
extended facing.
2 Double breasted front
Draw two button lines at equal distances each side of centre front.

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Mark buttonholes, button placings; add buttonstand.
Construct facing as for standard front.
3 Standard zip front
Measure width of zip to be exposed.
Mark in from centrefront half this distanceand mark this zip line, front
edge line. Rub out centre front line.
Construct facing as for standard front.
3a Strap for zip front
Mark strap line on front section.
Mark A at top of strap line, B at centre front.
Construct strap twice the measurement A–B.
Mark fold line at outer edge. Mark centre front.
4 Simple fly front
Fly frontAdd button stand to centre front, mark stitch line.
Add extensionto front edge2cm below top edgeto 5cm below stitch line.
The extension must be 1.5cm wider than width of stitch line.
Trace off facing with the same extension.
Mark vertical buttonholes on centre front line of facing.
Buttoned frontConstruct as a standard front.

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215
216
 Collars – basic principles
Collar construction terms
NecklineLine where the collar is joined to the neck.

Style lineOuter edge of collar and rever.

Roll lineThe line where the collar rolls over.

StandRise of the collar from neckline to roll line.

Fall Depth of the collar from roll line to style line.

Break pointWhere the rever turns back.

Break lineLine along which the rever rolls back.

Note1 The breakline andthe roll line aresometimesreferredto ascrease

lines.

Note2 Beforedraftinga collar Alter necklineif required,markanybutton

lines, buttonholes and buttonstands.
Lowering the neckline
Placeshoulderof back bodice to shoulderof front bodice, neck points
touching.

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Draw in new necklineshapeon front and back bodicemaking surethat
there is a smooth line at the shoulder point.
Measuring the neckline
If the neckline is to be lowered, complete this first.
Place back shoulder to front shoulder.
Measurethe necklineaccuratelyfrom centrebackto centrefront with the
tapemeasureupright (seediagram);this gives 1/2 necklinemeasurement
that is required for the garment style or for drafting standing collars.
NoteThe necklinemeasurement is not the necksizebody measurement in
the standardbody measurementtables.The necklinemeasurementis the
measurementtakenfrom the block (this includesease)or from a pattern
that may have an altered neckline.
Collar shapes
Although the style line determinesthe shapeof the outer edge of the
collar, the length of the outer edge determines where it sits on the body.
If the outer edge of a collar is tightened, it sits higher in the neck,
increasing the stand.
If it is widened, it reduces the stand (see diagram).
Top collars
Add approx 0.25cm(dependingon thicknessof fabric) to outer edgeof
top collars from A–B.
Some collar designs require 0.25cm on back neckline from C–D.

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219
 Simple collars
1 Standing straight collar
0–1 1/2 neckline measurement.
1–2buttonstand; square up from 0 and 2.
0–3collar depth; square across to 4.
4–51.25cm; 5–6 equals 1–2.
0–7measurement 0–1.
2–81cm; join 5–8 and 6–l.
Join 7–8 with a curve. Mark any buttonholes.
2 Convertible collar
0–1 1/2 neckline measurement; square up from 0 and 1.
0–2 3/4 measurement 0–1 minus 1cm; square up.
0–3collar depth; square across to 4 and 5.
0–60.5cm.
1–70.8cm; shape neckline of collar from 6–7.
Draw style line of collar from 4–7.
Note If depthof collar exceeds7cm, the outer edgefrom 3–4 is cut and
spread to sit lower on shoulder.
3 Shirt collar
0–1 1/2 neckline measurement; square up from 0 and l.
0–2collar and stand depth (approx. 6–8cm); square across.
0–3 3/4 measurement 0–1; square up to 4.
0–5 1/2 measurement 0–2 minus 1cm; square across to 6.
1–7buttonstand measurement; square up.

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0–80.25cm.
7–90.75cm; join 8–3 and 3–9 with a curve.
6–100.5cm. Draw outline of collar as shown.
3a Shirt collar with band
Trace round collar. Mark points 5, 9, 10.
5–110.5cm; 10–12 0.25cm.
Join 11–12–9.
Trace round collar and stand as shown.
4 Basic flat collar (Peter Pan)
Many shapesof flat collar canbedraftedfrom this adaptationby changing
the style line (example shows classic Peter Pan shape).
Dotted line shows two-piece collar for back opening.
Placeshoulderof back bodice to shoulderof front bodice, neck points
touching.
Overlap outer shoulders:
56–92cm height 0.75cm
98–116cm height 1cm
122–140cm height1.25cm
146–170cm height1.5cm.

Draw in collar shape. Trace off collar.

5 Eton collar
Construct a Peter Pan collar.
Divide the collar into six sections as shown.
Cut up the lines. Overlap the outer edge 0.5cm.
Trace round new collar shape with a smooth line.

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222
6 Collar on lowered neckline
Draw in new neckline on front and back bodice.
Placeshoulderof back bodice to shoulderof front bodice, neck points
touching.

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Overlap shoulders amount given for peter pan collar.
Draw in collar shape.
Trace collar; trace bodice sections with new neckline.
7 Sailor collar
Placeshoulderof back bodice to shoulderof front bodice, neck points
touching.
Overlap shoulders amount given for peter pan collar.
Draw in ‘V’ neckline.
Draw in collar as shown.
The collar is 1cm wider than the shoulder line.
Trace off collar pattern.
The collar can be cut in one piece or have a join at the shoulder.
8 Frilled collar
Measure the total neckline.
Constructa circle, the circumferenceis twice the measurementof the
neckline (see ‘constructing a circle’, ‘Glossary’).
Mark point A at top of circle. A–B is depth of frill.
Draw outer circle.
Mark points C and D 1.5cm each side of A; square up.
Mark balancepointsE andF. C–E andD–F aretwice the measurement
of
back neckline.
NoteFor extra frilling construct a circle with a greater circumference.
9 Simple roll collar
Trace round front bodice.
Mark buttonholes, add buttonstand.

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Mark point 1 at break point.
Mark point 2 at neckline; square up from 2.
2–3back neck measurement.
3–4 56–92cm height 2cm
98–116cm height 2.5cm
122–140cm height3cm
146–170cm height3.5cm.

2–4the measurement 2–3.

Join 2–4 with a slight curve.
Square out from the line 2–4.
4–56–9cm approx.
5–61cm.
Draw in style line of collar as shown.
Draw in facing line. Trace off facing.
Add 0.5cm (depending on the thickness of fabric) to rever edge from 6–1.

225
226
 Classic formal collars
98–170cm height
10 Standard blazer collar

227
Trace round front sectionof the blazer block; extendthe shoulderline.
Draw in facing line, break line, centre front. Extend the break line.
Mark point 1 at breakpoint, 2 at neckline,squaredown from 2. Re-mark
point 26 on block point 3.
3–4 back neck measurement plus 0.5cm.
4–5 1.5cm; make 3–5 the same measurement as 3–4.
98-116cm height 5-6 2cm; 5-7 3cm
122-140cm height5-6 2.25cm; 5-7 3.25cm
146-170cm height5-6 2.5cm; 5-7 3.5cm.

Draw a line from 6 parallelto the line 5–3 to touchthe line squareddown
from 2. Mark point 8.
Mark point 9 where break line crosses neckline, draw a curve from 8–9.
Mark collar point 10 1cm from centre front line.
10–11 98–116cm height 2cm
122–140cm height2.5cm
146–170cm height3cm.

Draw style line of collar: curve outer edge inwards.

Trace off facing and collar.
Note 1 Add 0.5cm (dependingon thicknessof the fabric) to rever from
point 1–10.
Draw in roll line on collar as shown.
Note2 Under-collarsof tailoredgarmentsarecut on the cross.The grain
line of the rever can be placed parallel to the rever edge.
11 Standard rever collar
Trace round block required. Extend shoulder line.
Raise front neckline 1cm. Re-draw neck curve.
Mark buttonholes, buttonstand. Draw in facing line.

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Square down from 2.
2–3 98–116cm height 1.5cm
122–140cm height1.75cm
146–170cm height2cm.

Draw in break line from 1–3: extend line.

3–4 back neck measurement plus 0.5cm.
4–5 1.5cm: make 3–5 the same measurement as 3–4.
98-116cm height 5-6 2.5cm 5-7 3.5cm
122-140cm height5-6 2.75cm 5-7 3.75cm
146-170cm height5-6 3cm 5-7 4cm.

Draw a line from 6 parallelto the line 5–3 to touchthe line squareddown
from 2. Mark point 8.
Mark point 9 where break line crosses neckline.
Draw a curve from 8–9. Mark point 10 on centre front line.
Draw in style line of collar from 7–10.
Draw in style line of rever from 10–1.
Trace off facing and collar.
See notes 1 and 2 of classic blazer collar to complete pattern.
Wider collar shapeThefall of thecollar canbeincreasedbut thestyleline
of the collar will haveto be cut and openedat A, B and C (the amount
varies with the depth of the collar).
12 Changing the style line (e.g. double breasted reefer collar)
Using the standardcollar and rever draft, the style line of the collar and
rever can be changed.
Trace round front section of the block required.
Mark buttonholesand buttonstandfor doublebreastedfront; mark break
point.

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Constructstandardcollar andrever,drawingin style lines for reefercollar
and rever as shown.
Note For other designs,the neckline can be lowered or raisedand the
rever angle changed.

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231
 Hoods (56–170cm height)
Measurements required for hoods
Cervicalto headcrownThis measurementis calculatedasheightminus
cervical height.
1
/2 neckline measurement
Draw in a lowered neckline according to style.
Measure new neckline, A–E plus F–G; see diagram.
Note: Both hoodscan be attachedor detachableand securedby zips or
buttons. The neckline of a garment will require the same widening
adaptation for both types of hood and use the same 1/2 neckline
measurement.
1 Hood 1
Square both ways from O.
0–1 1/2 neckline measurement
minus 1cm: square up.
1–2cervical to head crown:
56–92cm height 2cm
98–116cm height 2.5cm
122–140cm height3cm
146–170cm height4cm; square across.

Mark point 3.
2–4 1/3 measurement 2–3 plus 2cm.
4–5 1/3 measurement 2–3 plus 0.5cm; square up.
5–6the measurement 4–5; square across to 7.
0–8 1/2 measurement 0–1 minus 1cm.
0–90.75cm: join 9–8 and 9–4 with curves.

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1–101/5 measurement 0–1; square out.
Join 8–10 with a curve. 10–11 1cm.
3–121/3 measurement 1–3. Join 1–12 with a curve.
2 Hood 2
0–1 1/2 neckline measurement
plus 1.5cm: square up.
0–2 1/5 measurement 0–1; join 1–2.
2–3 1/2 measurement 1–2 plus 1cm.
Curve the line 1–3 0.5cm and 2–3 0.5cm.
1–4cervical to head crown:
56–92cm height 2cm
98–116cm height 2.5cm
122–140cm height3cm
146–170cm height4cm; square across to 5.

5–6 1/5 measurement 4–5; square down to 7.

6–8 1/2 measurement 6–7.
6–91.5cm; square out. 9–10 1.5cm.
Squareup from the line 1–2 to touch the line 0–1 at 11. Draw in face
curve 10, 8, 11.
Add the same buttonstand as garment from line 2–11.
4–121/3 measurement 1–4 plus 2cm.
12–131/5 measurement 0–1 plus 0.5cm.
4–141/2 measurement 4–6.
Draw in head curve 1, 13, 14, 10.
Hood gusset
Square down and across from 15.
15–16length of head curve from 1–10; square across.

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16–17 56–92cm height 4cm
98–116cm height 5cm
122–140cm height6cm
146–170cm height7cm; square up to 18.

15–191/4 measurement 15–16; square across to 20.

19–211.5cm; 20–22 1.5cm. Draw curved outer lines.

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235
Part Four: ‘Form’ cutting – schoolwear and formal wear (3–14 years)
Chapter 11
Classic blocks for schoolwear and formal wear
Girls; 3–14 years, sizes 98–164cm height
Boys; 3–14 years, sizes 98–170cm height
Clothing cut to fit the figure costs manufacturersmore to produce.
Therefore this type of cutting is found mainly in two areas.
1. ‘Form’ cutting is usedin a sectorof the schooluniform market
where a limited style range,and the large quantitiesof garments
ordered,balancethe costs of production.Some manufacturersof
schooluniformsnow offer ‘plus’ sizesfor overweightchildrenwho
havedifferent width/height proportions.Two ‘plus’ size chartsfor
girls and boys are available in Chpater 1.
2. ‘Form’ cutting is also usedin the productionof more expensive
garmentswhere the costsof their manufactureis matchedby the
quality of the fabric andthe retail outletsthat specialisein ‘designer
cut’ clothing for children.
SizingnotesGirls and boys matureat different ages.Therefore,most of
the blocksin this chapterareconstructedseparatelyfor girls andboysand
the size breaks in the block instructions are different.
For somestylesof garmentthe size chart and the blocks in Chapter14.
will providea betterfit for girls with developingfigures(sizes146–164cm
height).
The classic skirt and trouser blocks

The classic skirt blocks: girls

sizes 98–164cm height
Skirts without darts (98–116cm height)

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The skirt block without dartinghasan easyfitting waistline(5cm ease).It
is usedfor mostskirtsfor sizesup to 104cmheightbecausegirls up to this
size have little waist shaping.It is usually developedinto designswith
straps,bib fronts, simple tunics or elasticatedwaists. The skirt without
darts can be used for elasticated waist styles for larger sizes.

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:98cm height, girls – approx.age3 years)takenfrom the size
charts.
Refer to the size charts for girls’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
waist 52cm
hip/seat 56cm
waist to hip 12.3cm
waist to knee34cm

Back
Square both ways from 0.
0–1skirt length plus 1cm; square across.
0–2waist to hip plus 1cm; square across.
2–3 1/4 hip plus 1.5cm; square up to 4 and down to 5.
0–6 1/4 waist plus 1cm.
0–71cm; join 6–7 with a curve.
5–8 2.5cm; draw in side seam6, 3, 8; curve hipline outwards0.25cm,
curve hemline up 0.25cm at 8.

Front

237
Square both ways from 9.
9–10skirt length plus 1cm; square across.
9–11waist to hip plus 1cm; square across.
11–121/4 hip plus 2cm; square up to 13, down to 14.
9–151/4 waist plus 1.5cm.
9–160.5cm; join 15–16 with a curve.
14–17 2.5cm; draw in side seam 15, 12, 17; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm, curve hemline 0.25cm at 17.
Skirt with darts (122–164cm height)
Skirts with dartshave1cm easein the waistlineof the skirt. The waistline
of the skirt should be eased onto the skirt waistband.
SpecialnoteFor well fitting tailoredskirts thesizechartandtheblocksin
Chapter14 will providea betterfit for girls with developingfigures(sizes
146–164cm height).

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:122cmheight,girls – approx.age7 years)takenfrom the size
charts.
Refer to the size charts for girls’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
Waist 60cm
Hip/seat 68cm
Waist to hip 14.7cm
Waist to knee42cm

Back
Square both ways from O.

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0–1skirt length plus 1cm; square across.
0–2waist to hip plus 1cm; square across.
2–3 1/4 hip plus l.5cm; square up to 4 and down to 5.
0–6 1/4 waist;
sizes: 122–140cm heightplus 1.5cm
146–164cm heightplus 1.8cm.

0–71cm; join 6–7 with a curve.

5–8 2.5cm; draw in side seam6, 3, 8; curve hipline outwards0.25cm,
curve hemline 0.25cm at 8.
9 is mid-way between 6 and 7; square down from the line 6–7.
Constructa dart on this line; sizes:122–140cmheight length 9cm width
1.3cm 146–164cm height length 10cm width 1.6cm.

Front
Square both ways from 10.
10–11skirt length plus 1cm; square across.
10–12waist to hip plus 1cm; square across.
12–131/4 hip plus l.5cm; square up to 14, down to 15.
10–161/4 waist;
sizes: 122-140cm heightlength 9cm width 1.3cm
146-164cm heightlength 10cm width 1.6cm.

10–170.5cm; join 16–17 with a curve.

15–18 2.5cm; draw in side seam 16, 13, 18; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm, curve hemline 0.25cm at 18.
19 is mid-way between 16 and 17; square down from the line 16–17.
Construct a dart on this line;

239
sizes: 122–140cm heightlength 7.5cm width 1.5cm
146–164cm heightlength 8.5cm width 2cm.

240
241
 The classic trouser block:
girls sizes 98–164cm height
The trouser block draft starts at size 98cm height.
Below this size use the trouser block in the BabywearBlocks section
which has a special ease allowance to accommodate nappies.
The girl’s waist shapechangesparticularlyfrom the ageof 7. Sizesup to
116cmheigz`hthavea largerfront waist measurement andrequireno dart
in the front section of the trousers. This front–back proportion is
systematicallyreducedas the size is increased.For girls with developing
figuresit may be moreusefulto usethe girls’ trouserblock in Chapter14
as this block has more waist shaping.
Note1 Thereis 1cm easein the waistlineof the trousers.The waistlineof
trousers should always be eased onto the waistband.
Note2 The top of the waistbandof the basictrouserblock for girls sits on
the waistline.

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:girls size 134cm height, approx.age 9 years)taken from the
size chart.
Refer to the size charts for girls’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
hip/seat 74cm
waist 62cm
body rise 22cm
inside leg 61cm
trouser bottom width19cm
waist to hip 16.1cm
waist band depth 3.5cm

242
Front
Square down and across from 0.
0–1body rise plus 1cm, minus waistband depth; square across.
0–2waist to hip minus waistband depth; square across.
1–3inside leg; square across.
1–4 1/2 measurement 1–3;
sizes: 98–116cm height minus 3cm
122–140cm heightminus 3.5cm
146–164cm heightminus 4cm.

square across.
1–5 1/12 hip/seat plus 1.5cm; square up to 6 and 7.
6–8 1/4 hip/seat;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1.5cm
122–140cm heightplus 1cm
146–164cm heightplus 0.5cm.

5–9 1/16 hip/seat plus 0.5cm.

7–101cm.
Join 10–6; join 6–9 with a curve touching a point;
sizes: 98–116cm height 2.25cm from 5
122–140cm height2.5cm from 5
146–164cm height2.75cm.

Girls, 99–116cm height

10–111/4 waist;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.75cm.

243
 Girls, 122–164cm height
10–111/4 waist;
sizes: 122–140cm heightplus 1.25cm
146–164cm heightplus 1.75cm.

Construct a dart on line from 0;

Sizes: 122–140cm heightlength 7cm, width 1cm
146–164cm heightlength 8cm, width 1.25cm.

3–121/2 trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.

4–13the measurement 3–12 plus 1cm.
3–141/2 trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.
4–15the measurement 3–14 plus 1cm.
Draw in side seamthroughpoints 11, 8, 13, 12; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm.
Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14; curve 9–15 in 0.75cm.

Back
5–16 1/4 measurement1–5; squareup to 17 on hip/seat line, 18 on
waistline.
16–191/2 measurement 16–18.
18–201.5cm.
20–211.5cm.
21–221/4 waist;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1.25cm
122–140cm heightplus 2.25cm

244
 146–164cm heightplus 2.5cm.

Join 21–22 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

9–231/2 measurement 5–9,
23–240.25cm.
Join 21–19.
Join 19–24 with a curve touching a point;
Sizes: 98–116cm height 3.5cm from 16
122–140cm height3.75cm from 16
146–164cm height4cm from 16.

17–251/4 hip/seat;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1cm
122–140cm heightplus 1.25cm
146–164cm heightplus 1.75cm

12–261cm.
13–271cm.
14–281cm.
15–291cm.
Draw in side seamthroughpoints 22, 25, 27, 26; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm, 25–27 inwards 0.25cm.
Draw inside leg seam 24, 29, 28; curve 24–29 1.25cm.
21–301/2 measurement 21–22; square down from the line 21–22.
Construct a dart on this line;
sizes: 98–116cm height length 7.5cm, width 1.5cm
122–140cm heightlength 9cm, width 2cm
146–164cm heightlength 11cm, width 2.5cm.

Curve hemline down 1cm at 3.

245
246
 The classic trouser block:
boys sizes 98–170cm height
Note1 Thereis 1cm easein the waistlineof the trousers.The waistlineof
trousers should always be eased onto the waistband.
Note 2 The top of the waistbandof the basictrouserblock for boys,sits
approximately 2cm below the waistline.

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:boys size 134cm height, approx.age 9 years)taken from the
size chart.
Refer to the size charts for boys’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
hip/seat 73cm
waist 64cm
body rise 22cm
inside leg 61cm
trouser bottom width19cm
waist to hip 15.6cm
waist band depth 3.5cm

Front
Square down and across from 0.
0–1body rise minus 1cm, minus waistband depth; square across.
0–2waist to hip minus 2cm, minus waistband depth.
1–3inside leg; square across.

247
1–4 1/2 measurement 1–3;
sizes: 98–116cm height minus 3cm
122–152cm heightminus 3.5cm
158–170cm heightminus 4cm;

square across.
1–5 1/12 hip/seat plus 1.5cm; square up to 6 and 7.
6–8 1/4 hip/seat;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1.5cm
122–152cm heightplus 1cm
158–170cm heightplus 0.5cm.

5–9 1/16 hip/seat plus 0.5cm.

7–101cm.
Join 10–6; join 6–9 with a curve touching a point;
sizes: 98–116cm height 2.25cm from 5
122–152cm height2.5cm from 5
158–170cm height2.75cm from 5.

10–111/4 waist;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.75cm
122–152cm heightplus 0.5cm
158–170cm heightplus 0.25cm.

3–121/2 trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.

4–13the measurement 3–12 plus 1cm.
3–141/2 trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm.
4–15the measurement 3–14 plus 1cm.
Draw in side seamthroughpoints 11, 8, 13, 12; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm.

248
Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14; curve 9–15 inwards 0.75cm.

Back
5–16 1/4 measurement1–5; squareup to 17 on hip/seat line, 18 on
waistline.
16–191/2 measurement 16–18.
18–201.5cm.
20–211.5cm.
21–221/4 waist;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1.25cm
122–152cm heightplus 2cm
158–170cm heightplus 2.75cm.

Join 21–2 to touch the horizontal line from 0.

9–231/2 measurement 5–9.
23–240.25cm.
Join 21–19.
Join 19–24 with a curve touching a point;
sizes: 92–116cm height 3.5cm from 16
122–152cm height3.75cm from 16
158–170cm height4cm from 16.

17–251/4 hip/seat;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 1cm
122–152cm heightplus 1.25m
158–170cm heightplus 1.75cm.

12–261cm.
13–271cm.

249
14–281cm.
15–291cm.
Draw in side seamthroughpoints 22, 25, 27, 26; curve hipline outwards
0.25cm, 25–27 inwards 0.25cm.
Draw inside leg seam 24, 29, 28.
Curve 24–29 inwards 1.25cm.
21–301/2 measurement 21–22; square down from the line 21–22.
Construct a dart on this line;
sizes: 98–116cm height length 7.5cm, width 1.5cm
122–152cm heightlength 9cm, width 2cm
158–170cm heightlength 11cm, width 2.5cm.

Curve hemline down 1cm at 3.

250
The classic shirt blocks

251
The classic shirt block: girls
sizes 98–164cm height
younger boys sizes 98–116cm
height
Measurements required to draft the blocks
(example:110cm height, girls and boys approx.age5 years)takenfrom
thesize chart.
Refer to the size chartsfor girls’ and boys’ standardmeasurements
(6cm
height intervals).
girls boys
chest 59cm 59cm
scye depth 14.4cm 14.4cm
back neck to waist26.6cm 26.6cm
across back 24.4cm 24.8cm
neck size 27.8cm 27.9cm
arm length 39cm 39.5cm
cuff size for shirts 16.2cm 16.2cm

Body sections
Square up and down from 0; square across approx.
10cm.
0–1scye depth plus 2cm; square across.
0–2neck to waist; square across.
0–3shirt length required; square across.

252
1–4 1/2 chest;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 8cm
122–140cm heightplus 8.5cm
146–164cm heightplus 9.5cm; square up.

Square down to 5.
0-6 sizes: 98-116cm height plus 3cm
122-140cm heightplus 3.25cm
146-164cm heightplus 3.5cm;

square across to 7.
6–8 1/5 neck plus 0.2cm; square down to 9.
0–101/3 measurement 0.9; draw a curve from 8–10.
6–11 1/5 scye depth minus 0.5cm; square out.
0–121/5 measurement 0–1 plus 1cm; square halfway across the block.
1–131/2 across back;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 2cm
122–140cm heightplus 2.25cm
146–164cm heightplus 2.5cm;

square up to 14 and 15.

15–160.75cm; join 8–16.
14–171/2 measurement 12–14 minus 1.5cm.
14–180.5cm; join 17–18 with a curve.
7-19 sizes: 98-116cm height plus 3.5cm
122-140cm heightplus 4cm
146-164cm heightplus 5cm;

square across.
19–201/5 neck size minus 0.8cm.

253
19–211/5 neck size;
sizes: 98–116cm height minus 1.2cm
122–140cm heightminus 1.4cm
146–164cm heightminus 1.6cm;

draw in neck curve.

19–221/5 scye depth plus 0.5cm; square out.
20–23the measurement 8–16.
Draw a line from 20 to touch the line from 22.
21–241/2 measurement 4–21 plus 1cm; square across.
4–25the measurement 1–13;
sizes: 98–116cm height minus 1cm
122–140cm heightminus 0.8cm
146–164cm heightminus 0.2cm;

square up to 26.
25–271/2 measurement 13–25 plus 0.5cm; square down to 28 and 29.
Draw armscye curve 16, 18, 27, 26, 23.
29–301/4 measurement 28–29.
29–311/3 measurement 5–29.
29–321/3 measurement 3–29.
Join 30–31 and 30–32 with curves.
Curve both side seams in 0.75cm at 28.
21–331.5cm buttonstand; square down.
33–343.5cm facing; square down. Shape neckline.
12–352cm (back pleat); square down.

254
Sleeve
Square down from 0.
0–1 1/4 armscye measurement; square across.
0–2arm length minus cuff depth plus 2cm ease; square across.
1–3 1/2 measurement 1–2; square across.
0–4 1/2 armscye measurement; square down to 5.
0–6 1/2 armscye measurement; square down to 7.
Divide 0–4 into four sections, mark points 8, 9, 10.
Divide 0–6 into four sections, mark points 11, 12, 13.
8–0raise the curve;
sizes: 98-116cm height 0.5cm at 9; 0.75cm at 10
122-140cm height0.75cm at 9;1.25cm at 10
146-164cm height1cm at 9; 1.75cm at 10.

Raise the curve at 11;

sizes: 98–116cm height 0.5cm
122–140cm height0.75cm
146–164cm height1cm.

Hollow the curve at 13;

sizes: 98–116cm height 0.3cm
122–140cm height0.5cm
146–164cm height0.8cm.

5–141/4 measurement 2–5 minus 0.5cm; join 4–14.

7–151/4 measurement 2–7 minus 0.5cm; join 6–15.
Mark points 16 and 17 on the line from 3.
14–181cm; join 16–18 with a curve.

255
15–191cm; join 17–19 with a curve.
20 is midway 2–18; square up to 21.
21–230.75cm; join 18–2 with a curve.

Cuff
Cuff length – cuff size plus 2cm.
Cuff depth – approx. size 4.5–7cm.

Collar
Construct a shirt collar.

256
257
 The classic shirt block: boys
sizes 122–170cm height
Measurements required to draft the blocks
(example: 134cm height, boys approx. 9 years) taken from
size
thechart.
Refer to the size charts for boys’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
chest 70cm
scye depth 17.4cm
back neck to waist32cm
across back 29.2cm
neck size 31.5cm
arm length 49.5cm
cuff size for shirts 18cm

Body sections
Square down from 0; square across approx. 10cm.
0–1scye depth plus 2cm; square across.
0–2neck to waist; square across.
0–3shirt length required; square across.
1–4 1/2 chest;
sizes 122–152cm heightplus 9cm
158–170cm heightplus 10cm;

square up, square down to 5.

0-6 sizes 122-152cm height3.5cm
158-171cm height3.75cm;

258
square across to 7.
6–8 1/5 neck plus 0.2cm; square down to 9.
0–101/3 measurement 0–9; draw a curve from 8–10.
6–11 1/5 scye depth minus 0.5cm; square half-way across the block.
0–121/5 measurement 0–1 plus 1cm; square halfway across block.
1–131/2 across back:
sizes 122–152cm heightplus 2.25cm
158–170cm heightplus 2.5cm;

square up to 14 and 15.

15–160.75cm; join 8–16.
14–171/2 measurement 14–12 minus 1.5cm.
14–180.5cm; join 17–18 with a curve.
7-19 sizes: 98-116cm height plus 3.5cm
122-140cm heightplus 4cm
146-164cm heightplus 5cm;

19–201/5 neck size minus 0.8cm.

19–211/5 neck size:
sizes 122–152cm heightminus 1.5cm
158–170cm heightminus 1.2cm;

draw neck curve.

19–221/5 scye depth plus 0.5cm; square out.
20–23 the measurement8–16. Draw the line from 20 to touch the line
from 22.
21–241/2 measurement 4–21 plus 1cm; square across.
4–25the measurement 1–13:
sizes: 122–152cm heightminus 1cm

259
 158–170cm heightminus 1.5cm;

square up to 26.
25–271/2 measurement 13–25 plus 0.5cm; square down to 28 and 29.
Draw armhole curve 16, 18, 27, 26, 23.
29–301/4 measurement 28–29.
29–311/3 measurement 5–29.
29–321/3 measurement 3–29; join 30–31 and 30–32 with a curve.
Curve both side seams inwards 0.75cm at 28.
21–331.5cm buttonstand; square down.
33–343.5cm facing; square down. Shape neckline.
12–352cm (back pleat); square down.

Sleeve
Square down from 0.
0–1 1/4 armscye measurement; square across.
0–2sleeve length minus cuff depth plus 2cm ease; square across.
1–3 1/2 measurement 1–2; square across.
0–4 1/2 armscye measurement; square down to 5.
0–6 1/2 armscye measurement; square down to 7.
Divide 0–4 into four sections, mark points 8, 9, 10.
Divide 0–6 into four sections, mark points 11, 12, 13.
8–0raise the curve:
sizes 122–152cm height 0.75cm at 1.25
9; at 10
158–170cm height 1cm at 9; 1.75cm at 10.

260
Raise the curve at 11:
sizes 122–152cm height0.75cm
158–170cm height1cm.

Hollow the curve at 13:

sizes 122–152cm height0.5cm
158–170cm height0.8cm.

5–141/4 measurement 2–5 minus 0.5cm; join 4–14.

7–151/4 measurement 2–7 minus 0.5cm; join 6–15.
Mark points 16 and 17 on the line from 3.
14–181cm; join 16–18 with a curve.
15–191cm; join 17–19 with a curve.
20 is mid-way 2–18; square up to 21.
21–221/3 measurement 20–21.
20–230.5cm; join 18–2 with a curve.

Cuff
Cuff length – cuff size plus 2cm.
Cuff depth – approx. size 5.5cm–8cm

Collar
Construct a shirt collar, one-piece or collar with band.
Depth of classic shirt collar and stand:
sizes 122–152cm height7cm
158–170cm height8cm.

261
The classic body blocks

262
 The classic overgarment
block: girls sizes 98–164cm
height younger boys sizes
98–116cm height
The block is drafted for formal jackets and coats. For easy-fitting
overgarments select the ‘flat’ overgarment block in Chapter 4.

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example: 110cm height, approx. age 5 years) taken from
size
thecharts
.
Refer to thesize chartsfor standard measurements (6cm height intervals).
girls boys
chest 59cm 59cm
across back 24.4cm 24.8cm
neck size 27.8cm 27.9cm
shoulder 8.2cm 8.6cm
back neck to waist26.6cm 26.6cm
scye depth 14.4cm 14.4cm
waist to hip 13.5cm 13.2cm

Body sections
Square both ways from 0.
0–1neck to waist;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 2cm
122–140cm heightplus 2.25cm

263
 146–164cm heightplus 2.5cm.

0–2 1/2 chest;

sizes:98–116cm height plus 9cm
122–140cmheight plus 10cm
146–164cmheight plus 11cm;
square down; mark point 3 on waistline.
0–4 sizes: 98–116cm height 1.5cm
122–140cmheight 1.75cm
146–164cmheight 2cm.
4–5scye depth measurement;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 3cm
122–140cmheight plus 3.25cm
146–164cmheight plus 3.5cm;
square across to 6.
4–7 1/2 measurement 4–5; square out.
4–8 1/4 scye depth measurement; square out.
5–9 1/2 across back;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 2.2cm
122–140cmheight plus 2.5cm
146–164cmheight plus 2.8cm;
square up to 10 and 11.
11–122cm; square out.
0–131/5 neck size plus 0.6cm; draw in neck curve.
12–14 sizes: 98–116cm height 1.2cm

264
 122–140cmheight 1.6cm
146–164cmheight 2cm; join 13–14.
The back shoulder measurement includes approx.
0.5cm ease.
2–151/5 neck size plus 0.5cm.
15–161/2 measurement 15–6 plus 2cm; square across.
6–17the measurement 5–9 minus 0.5cm; square up to 18.
2–191/5 neck size plus 0.4cm; draw in neck curve.
Join 19 to point 11 with a straight line.
19–20the measurement 13–14 minus 0.8cm.
20–21 sizes: 98–116cm height 0.8cm
122–140cmheight 1cm
146–164cmheight 1.2cm.
Join 19–21.
17–221/2 measurement9–17plus 0.5cm;squaredown; mark point 23 on
waistline.
Draw in armscye shape as shown, measurement of the curve; sizes:
98–116cm height from 9 2.1cm; from 17 2.1cm
122–140cmheight from 9 2.4cm; from 17 2.3cm
146–164cmheight from 9 2.7cm; from 17 2.5cm.
4–24finished length; square across to 25 and 26.
26–271cm; join 25–27 with a curved line.
1–28waist to hip; square across.

Sleeve

265
Theblocksareusedfor garmentswith classiconepieceor two-pieceset-in
sleeves.Draft a one-piecesleeveor a two-piecesleeveto fit the armscye
measurement.

266
 The classic overgarment
block: boys sizes 122–170cm
height
The block is drafted for formal jackets and coats. For easy-fitting
overgarments select the ‘flat’ overgarment in Chapter 4.

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:122cmheight,boys– approx.age7 years)takenfrom the size
charts.
Refer to thesize chartfor standard measurements (6cm height intervals).
chest 64cm
across back 26.8cm
neck size 29.5cm
shoulder 9.5cm
back neck to waist29.2cm
scye depth 15.8cm
waist to hip 14.4cm

Body sections
Square both ways from 0.
0–1neck to waist;
sizes: 122–152cmheight plus 2.25cm
158–170cmheight plus 2.5cm.
0–2 1/2 chest;

267
sizes: 122–152cmheight plus 10cm
158–170cmheight plus 11cm;
square down, mark point 3 on waistline.
0–4 122–152cmheight 1.75cm
158–170cmheight 2cm.
4–5scye depth measurement;
sizes: 122–152cmheight plus 3.75cm
158–170cmheight plus 4.25cm;
square across to 6.
4–7 1/2 measurement 4–5; square out.
4–8 1/4 scye depth measurement; square out.
5–9 1/2 across back;
sizes: 122–152cmheight plus 2.5cm
158–170cmheight plus 2.8cm;
square up to 10 and 11.
11–122cm; square out.
0–131/5 neck size;
122–152cmheight plus 0.7cm
158–170cmheight plus 0.8cm;
draw in neck curve.
12–14 sizes: 122–152cmheight 1.6cm
158–170cmheight 2cm; join 13–14.
The back shoulder measurement includes approx.
0.5cm ease.

268
2–15 sizes: 122–152cmheight 1cm
158–170cmheight 1.5cm; squareacross.
1
15–16 /5 neck size; plus 0.5cm.
16–171/2 measurement 16–6 plus 2cm; square across.
6–18the measurement 5–9;
sizes: 122–152cmheight minus 1cm
158–170cmheight minus 1.5cm;
square up to 19.
15–20the measurement 0–13 minus 0.3cm; draw in neck curve.
Join 20 to point 11 with a straight line.
20–21the measurement 13–14 minus 0.5cm.
21–22 sizes: 122–152cmheight 1cm
158–170cmheight 1.25cm.
Join 20–22.
18–231/2 measurement 5–6; square down; mark point 24 on waistline.
Draw in armscye shape as shown, measurement of curve; sizes:
122–152cmheight from 9 2.5cm; from 18 2.25cm
158–170cmheight from 9 2.8cm; from 18 2.5cm.
4–25finished length; square across to 26 and 27.
27–281cm; join 26–28 with a curved line.
1–29waist to hip; square across.

Sleeve

269
Theblocksareusedfor garmentswith classiconepieceor two-pieceset-in
sleeves.Draft a one-piecesleeveor a two-piece sleeveto fit armscye
measurement.

270
 The classic blazer block:
girls and boys sizes
122–170cm height
The blazerblock is constructedto reflect the changingshapeof boysand
girls from the age of seven.

Measurements required to draft the block

(example:134cmheight,girls andboys– approx.age9 years)takenfrom
thesize charts
.
Refer to thesize chartsfor standard measurements (6cm height intervals).
girls boys
chest 69cm 70cm
across back 28.2cm 29.2cm
neck size 31cm 31.5cm
shoulder 10cm 10.5cm
neck to waist31.8cm 32cm
scye depth 17cm 17.4cm
waist to hip 16.1cm 15.6cm

Body sections
Square both ways from 0.
0–1sizes: girls boys
122–140cm height 122–152cm height 1.5cm
146–164cm height 158–170cm height 1.75cm

271
1–2neck to waist; square across.
1–3finished length; square across.
2–4waist to hip; square across.
1–5scye depth measurement; sizes:
girls boys
122–140cm height 122–152cm height plus 2.5cm
146–164cm height 158–170cm height plus 2.75cm
square across.
1–6 1/2 measurement 1–5; square across.
1–7 1/4 scye depth; square across.
5–8 1/2 across back plus 1.5cm square up to 9 and 10.
10–112cm; square out.
0–121/5 neck size plus 0.5cm; draw in neck curve.
12–13shoulder length plus 1.5cm.
2–141cm; square down to 15 and 16. Join 6–14.
0–171/2 chest plus 8cm; square down to 18, 19, 20.
18–21the meas. 5–8 minus 0.5cm; square up.
21–221/2 measurement 5–7 minus 2cm.
21–231/2 measurement21–18minus0.3cm;squareup to 24 anddown to
hemline.

Girls
Re-number point 24 as 25.
Boys
24–25 sizes: 122–152cmheight 0.75cm

272
 158–170cmheight 1.5cm
Join 25 to point 10; extend the line past point 25.

25–26 sizes: girls boys

122–140cm height 122–152cm height 1.75cm
146–164cm height 158–170cm height 2cm
25–27the measurement 12–13minus0.5cm;squaredown 1cm to 28. Join
25–28 with a slight curve.
21–291/2 meas. 8–21. Mark 29 underarm point.
Draw armscye shape as shown meas. of the curve:
sizes: girls boys
from 8; 122–140cmheight 122–152cmheight 2.7cm
146–164cmheight 158–170cmheight 3cm
from 21;122–140cmheight 122–152cmheight 2.3cm
146–164cm height 158–170cm height 2.5cm.
29–301/3 measurement
29–21;squaredownto 31 on waistline,32 on hip/
seat line.
31–332/3 measurement 31–32; construct a 1cm dart on the line 30–33.
8–34 1/4 scye depth minus 1 cm; squareacrossto 35 on armscyeline.
Square down to 36 on waistline.
8–37 sizes: girls boys
122–140cm height 122–152cm height 2cm
146–164cm height 158–170cm height 2.5cm;
square down to 38, 39, 40.
40–41 1/6 measurement5–8; draw in back seamline through points 35,
38, 41 and points 35, 36, 40.

273
18–421/2 meas. 18–19 minus 2cm. 19–43 1.5cm.
43–44the measurement 42–43. Mark points 42, 43, and 44 as buttonholes.
42–452cm; square up and down.
Join 45 to point 26 and extend the line.
20–461.5cm; join 46–40 on back seam line.
46–471/5 measurement3–40plus 1cm. Draw in front line of blazerfrom
45–47 as shown.
25–481/8 neck size plus 0.5cm. square across to 49 on centre front line.
48–501.5cm; join 50–49 and extend the line.
49–511.5cm draw in necklinewith a curve to breakline. Draw in rever
edge from 51–45 with a curve.

Pockets
23–521/3 measurement 23–18.
52–53size 122cm height 7.5cm (add 0.5cm for each size up).
53–541cm; size 122cmheight squaredown 7.5cmfrom 52 and 54 (add
0.5cm for each size up).
Draw in lower edge of pocket; curve the corners at bottom edge of pocket.
On the line from 24 mark point 55 on the waistline, 56 on hip/seat line.
55–571/2 measurement 55–56 minus 2cm.
57–58size 122cm height 13.5cm (add 0.5cm for each size up).
Draw two parallel lines from 57 and 58 parallel to the hemline.
57–59size 122cm height 12.5cm (add 0.5cm for each size up).
Squaredown from 59 usingthe line 57–59to completepocket.Curvethe
corners at bottom edge of pocket.

274
Sleeve
Draft a two-piece sleeve to fit armscye measurements.

275
 The classic bodice block:
girls sizes 98–164cm height
SpecialnoteFor somestylesof garmentthe sizechartandthe blockson
pageswill provide a better fit for girls with developingfigures (sizes
146–164cm height).

Measurements required to draft the blocks

(example:110cm height,girls – approx.age5 years)takenfrom the size
chart.
Refer to the size charts for girls’ standardmeasurements(6cm height
intervals).
chest 59cm
across back 24.4cm
neck size 27.8cm
shoulder 8.2cm
scye depth 14.4cm
back neck to waist26.6cm

Body sections
0–1neck to waist plus 1.25cm; square across.
0–2 1/2 chest;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 4.5cm
122–140cm heightplus 4.75cm
146–164cm heightplus 5cm;

square down to 3.
e.g. 110cm height: (59 ÷ 2) + 4.5cm = 34cm.

276
0–41.25cm.
4–5scye depth plus 1cm; square across to 6.
4–7 1/2 measurement 4–5; square out.
4–8 1/4 scye depth minus 2cm; square out.
0–9 1/5 neck size plus 0.2cm; draw in neck curve.
5–101/2 across the back plus 0.5cm; square up;
Mark point 11 on the line from 7.
9–12shoulder measurement; plus 0.3cm.
Draw back shoulder line to touch the line from 8.
2–131/5 neck size.
2–141/5 neck size; draw in neck curve.
12–15 sizes: 98–116cm height 0.5cm
122–140cm height0.5.5cm
146–164cm height0.6cm;

square across.
13–16shouldermeasurement;
draw in front shoulderline to touchthe line
from 15.
6–17the measurement 5–10 minus 0.7cm; square up.
17–181/4 measurement 4–5.
17–191/2 measurement 10–17 plus 0.5cm; square down to 20.
10–21 sizes: 98–116cm height 2cm
122–140cm height2.1cm
146–164cm height2.2m.

17–22 sizes: 98–116cm height 1.8cm

122–140cm height1.9cm
146–164cm height2cm.

277
Draw in the armscyeshapeas shownin diagramto touch points 12, 11,
21, 19, 22, 18, 16.
3–23 sizes: 98–116cm height 1cm
122–140cm height0.75cm
146–164cm height0.5cm.

Join 1–23 with a curve.

Sleeve Draft a one-piece sleeve or twopiece sleeve to fit armscye
measurement.

Shaping the classic bodice

block: girls sizes 98–164cm
height
For some designsthe bodice may require some shape.Waist shaping
without dartsis usedfor sizesup to 116cmheight.Designshaveonly side
seamshapingor no waist shaping.Elasticatedwaistsareusedto providea
waist fit for many children. The standardeaseallowanceon a shaped
waistline is approx. 6cm.
Skirts on waisted dressesare usually gathered,tucked or pleated; the
controlling measurementfor this type of skirt is the waist measurementof
the completed bodice pattern.

Bodice shaping without darts

Always used for sizes up to 116cm height.
Mark points 1, 20, 22 on bodice block.
1–A and 22–B1/4 waist plus 1.5cm.
Draw in curved side seams 20–A and 20–B.

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Adjust the line of the waistline at A and B to ensurethat the lines 20–A
and 20–B are the same length

Bodice shaping with darts

Mark points 1, 5, 6, 10, 18, 20, 22 on bodice block.
5–A 1/2 measurement 5–10; square down to B.
6–C 1/2 measurement 6–18; square down to D.
A–E and C–F 2cm.
1–G 1/4 waist:
sizes: 122–140cm height2.25cm
146–164cm height2.75m;

22–H 1/4 waist:

sizes: 122–140cm height2.75cm
146–164cm height3.75mm.

Draw in curved side seams 20–G and 20–H.

Construct back and front darts on lines E–B and F–D:
sizes: 98–116cm height both darts1cm
122–134cm heightboth darts1.25cm
152–164cm heightback dart 1.5cm

Front dart 2cm.

Adjust theline at waistlineto ensurethatthelines20–Gand20–Handthe
dart lines are the same length.

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The classic dress block: girls
sizes 98–140cm height
A one-piecedress block for children is usually cut to avoid shaping
directly in the waist area.Fitted dressesare not very suitablefor small
children as they tend to haveratherlarge stomachs.It is adaptedto give
high waist shaping as this flatters the figure.
The block is offered up to 140cmheight but could be extendedfor girls
with undevelopedfigures. However, for this style of garmentfor older
children the size chart,the blocks and the dressadaptationin Chapter14
will provide a better fit for girls with developing figures.

The dressblock is constructedto kneelength; this providesa consistent

guide. Final length is marked at the pattern cutting stage.

Body sections
Separate front and back bodice block.
Traceround bodiceblock; usethe line 1–21 and 21–3 as the waistline to
begin the draft.
Mark points 1, 3, 13, 20, 21.

Back
Square down from 1 and 21.
1–A waist to knee measurement; square across to B.
B–C 5cm; join 21–C.
21–D the measurement 21–B; shape hem with a curve to D.
Curve in bodice side seam 20–21 0.75cm.

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1–E waist to hip measurement; square across.

Front
Square down from 3 and 21.
3–F waist to knee measurement; square across to G.
G–H 5cm; join 21–H.
21–J the measurement 2–G.
F–K the measurement3–23 on original bodiceblock; shapehem with a
curve from K–J.
3–L the measurement F–K; join L to 21 with a curve.
3–M waist to hip measurement; square across.

Sizes 98–116cm height

Young children have a forward stance;this meansthat extra fullness is
required in the front block.
Square down from 13 to N: cut up the line and open block at hem line.
N–P sizes: 98–104cm height 2.5cm
110–116cm height1.5cm.

Traceround new block shape;re-markwaistline,scyedepthline and hip

line.

The sleeveless dress block:

girls
Back and front

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Trace round the dress block.
Mark A at underarm point.
Raise scye depth line 1cm.
A–B 1cm; square up to C on new scye depth line.
Mark point D at shoulder point.
D–E 0.75cm; draw in new armhole shape from E–C as shown.
Mark point F at waistline G at hemline.
F–H 0.75cm; draw in new side seam, join H–G; join
C–H with a curve.

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 The formal coat block: girls
sizes 98–140cm height
This coatblock is developedfrom theClassicdressblock to give a classic,
slightly flared, full length shape.It can be used for girls up to 140cm
height and is especially suitable for younger children.

Back and front

Mark points A and B at shoulder, points C at underarm.
C–D 2cm, mark new scye depth line 2cm below previous scye depth line.
D–E 2.5cm
Raise the shoulder line 0.5cm.
Square up from A to touch new shoulder line at F.
F–G 0.5cm. Correct neck curve.
Extend armscye line from B–11 and B–19 1cm.
Re-draw armscye line as shown.
Mark H at waistline, J at hipline, K at hemline.
Extend H, K and J 1.5cm; draw in new side seam.
Shape in line from underarm to waistline 0.5cm.

Sleeve
Draft one-piece sleeve or two-piece sleeve to fit new armscye
measurement.

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 The one-piece sleeve block:
girls and boys sizes
98–170cm height
Measurements required to draft the blocks
(example:110cmheight,girls andboys– approx.age5 years)takenfrom
thesize charts
.
Refer to the size chartsfor boys’ and girls’ standardmeasurements
(6cm
height intervals).
armscye girth(measure the armscye)
arm length girls 39cm boys 39.5cm

For jackets, coats and overgarments add;

sizes: 98cm–116cm height plus 0.5cm
122cm–152cm heightplus 1cm
158cm–170cm heightplus 1.5cm.

Mark basic points on body block

(If the dressor formal coatblock is used,draw a scyedepthline andplace
armhole points together at A).
Mark point A at underarm, B and C at shoulder points.
Square up from scye depth line to touch back and front armscye lines.
Mark points D and E on scye depth line.

Sleeve
Square up and across from 0.

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0–1 1/3 armscye girth: square across.
0–2 1/2 measurement 0–1; square across.
0–3 1/2 measurement 0–2.
On body block
: E–F equals the measurement 0–3 on sleeve block.
Square out to FP (front pitch point) on armscye.
D–BP (back pitch point) equals the measurement 0–2 on sleeve block.

On sleeve:
3–4the measurement C–FP measured in a curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.4cm
122–152cm heightplus 0.6cm
158–170cm heightplus 0.8cm; join 3–4.

4–5the measurement B–BP measured in a curve;

sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.3cm
122–152cm heightplus 0.5cm
158–170cm heightplus 0.7cm; join 4–5.

3–6the measurement FP–A measured in a curve; join 3–6.

5–7the measurement BP–A measured in a curve; join 5–7.
4–8arm length; square across to 9 and 10.
Draw in outline of the sleeve head.
7–5hollow the curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height 0.3cm
122–152cm height0.4cm
158–170cm height0.5cm.

5–4raise the curve:

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sizes: 98–116cm height 0.8cm
122–152cm height0.9cm
158–170cm height1cm.
1
4–3raise the curve at 11,
/3 measurement 4–3;
sizes: 98–116cm height 1.4cm
122–152cm height1.6cm
158–170cm height1.8cm.

3–6hollow the curve;

sizes: 98–116cm height 0.5cm
122–152cm height0.6cm
158–170cm height0.7cm.

9–121/2 measurement 6–9; square across.

To shape side seams:

9–131/6 measurement 8–9.
10–141/6 measurement 8–10.
Join 6–13 and 7–14.
If a wrist curve is required:
14–8Lower the curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height 0.5cm
122–152cm height0.7cm
158–170cm height0.9cm.

Hollow the curve;

sizes: 98–116cm height 0.5cm
122–152cm height0.7cm
158–170cm height0.9cm.

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Note It is important that all curved measurementsare measuredvery
accurately along the curved line, with the tape upright (see diagram).

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 The two-piece sleeve block:
girls and boys sizes
98–170cm height
Measurements required to draft the blocks
(example:110cmheight,girls andboys– approx.age5 years)takenfrom
thesize charts
.
Refer to the size chartsfor boys’ and girls’ standardmeasurements
(6cm
height intervals).
armscye girth (measure the armscye)
girls boys
cuff size girls 10.6cm 10.7cm
arm length 39cm 39.5cm

for coats and overgarments add;

sizes: 98cm–116cm height plus 0.5cm
122cm–152cm heightplus 1cm
158cm–170cm heightplus 1.5cm

Mark basic points on body block

(If the dressor formal coatblock is useddraw a scyedepthline andplace
armhole points together at A.)
Mark points A at underarm, B and C at shoulder points.
Square up from scye depth line to touch back and front armscye lines.
Mark points D and E on scye depth line.

Sleeve

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Square up and across from 0.
0–1 1/3 armscye girth plus 0.25cm; square across.
1–2 1/3 measurement 0–1 plus 1cm; square across.
0–3 1/4 measurement 0–1.

On body block:
E–F equals the measurement 0–3 on sleeve block.
Square out to FP (front pitch point) on armscye.
D–BP (back pitch point) equals the measurement 0–2 on sleeve block.

Top sleeve:
3–4the measurement C–FP measured in a curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.5cm
122–152cm heightplus 0.8cm
158–170cm heightplus 1cm; join 3–4.

4–5the measurement B–BP measured in a curve;

sizes: 98–116cm height plus 0.4cm
122–152cm heightplus 0.6cm
158–170cm heightplus 0.8cm; join 4–5.

0–6the measurement A–E on body block.

0–7 sizes: 98–116cm height 1.5cm
122–152cm height1.75cm
158–170cm height2cm; square across.

7–8 and 7–9

sizes: 98–116cm height 1.25cm
122–152cm height1.5cm

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1–10arm length; square across to 11 and 12.
10–13 sizes: 98–116cm height 2cm
122–152cm height2.5cm
158–170cm height3cm; square

across.
10–14cuff size for two-piece sleeve; join 10–14 and 10–11.
7–15 1/2 measurement7–10; squareacross(elbow line). Curve inner
sleeve seams inwards at elbow line, the measurement 7–8.
Draw in sleeve head.
5–4raise the curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height 0.7cm
122–152cm height0.8cm
158–170cm height0.9cm.

Mark point 16, 4–16 is1/3 measurement 4–3.

4–3raise the curve at 16;
sizes: 98–116cm height 1.25cm
122–152cm height1.5cm
158–170cm height1.75cm; join 3–8.

Under sleeve
6–17the measurement A–BP on body block, measured in a curve;
sizes: 98–116cm height minus 0.2cm
122–152cm heightminus 0.3cm
158–170cm heightminus 0.4cm.

Join 6–17, draw a curve hollowed

sizes: 98–116cm height 0.75cm

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 122–152cm height1cm
158–170cm height1.25cm.

Checkthe measurementof the curve6–17on the sleeveequalsthe curve

A–BP on the body block, and adjust shape of curve.
Join 6–9 with a slight curve.
Join 17–14 and 5–14.
Mark points 18 and 19 on elbow line.
Curveoutersleeveseamsoutwards,themeasurement
7–8at points18 and
19.
Note It is important that all curved measurementsare measuredvery
accurately along the curved line, with the tape upright (see diagram).

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Part Four: ‘Form’ cutting – schoolwear and formal wear (3–14 years)
Chapter 12
Pattern adaptations for schoolwear
Girls; 3–14 years, sizes 98–164cm height
Boys; 3–14 years, sizes 98–170cm height
Whilst traditionalshirts,tailoredskirts,trousersandblazersremain,many
schoolshavereducedtheir ruleson overgarments.The schoolraincoathas
now beenreplacedby ‘flat’ cut duffle coatsandanoraksanda few ‘form’
cut classic coats and reefers.
SpecialnoteFor somestylesof garmentthe size chart and the blocks in
Chapter14 will providea betterfit for girls with developingfigures(sizes
146–164cm height).
Waistbands for sizes up to 104cm height
Children up to 104cm height require strapson skirts to hold them in
position or require elasticated waistbands to hold the skirt in position.
1 Standard waistband
NoteFor a ‘straight’ finish at the seamopeningthe extensionis addedto
only one end of the waistband.
A–B 1/2 waist measurement(+2.5cmfor skirts up to 104cmheight).B–C
3–4cm button extension.
Square down from A, B and C.
A–D twice waistband depth; mark fold line down centre.
2 Elasticated waistband
SkirtsMark A and B at centre front and back waist.
Square up from the hipline to points C and D.
Extend waistline curve to C and D.
Join C and D to hemline.

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WaistbandE–F the measurementof A–C andB–D; squaredown from E
and F.
E–G twice waistband depth, square across to H.
Mark fold line down centre.
2
On front waistline of skirt B–J/3 measurement B–D.
On waistband E–K the measurement A–C and D–J; square down.
E–K is the length of waistband to be elasticated.
3 Faced waistline and shaped waistband
Skirts On skirt block draw lines parallel to waistline; depthapprox4cm.
Cut off back and front sections.
Close darts. Place front section to back section.
a. Faced waistline
Trace round pattern.
b. ShapedwaistbandTraceround pattern.Add 4cm button extensionat
centrefront. (A centrebackopeningcould be used).The waistbandis cut
in double fabric.
4 Shaped elasticated waistband
Skirts On skirt block draw lines parallel to waistline; depthapprox4cm.
Cut off back and front sections.
Close darts. Add approx. 6–8cm to centre back.
5 Tunic skirt
This type of garmentis usuallyfor youngerchildrenwho havelittle waist
shaping and a forward stance.
BodiceTrace the sleeveless dress block to waistline.
Erase the side seam, square down from underarm.
Shape in side seam 0.5cm if required.
Mark points A, B, C and D at neckline. E and F at shoulders.
A–G 1cm. B–H, C–J, D–K 2.5cm. E–L, F–M 1cm.

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Draw in new neck and armhole curves.
Skirt Trace round skirt block, erase any darts.
Make back and front waistline measurements
equalto thoseof front and
back bodice.
Mark points N and P. Join N and P to hemline.
The skirt of tunic can be adapted to different styles.

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Note If the elasticatedwaistbandis required,makethe adaptationbefore
commencing the design.
6 Skirt with box pleat – vent pleat
Trace off skirt block.

300