Scissor Sisters Hair Show

Modern Makeup Class Kim Montgomery & Wes Elmilinger

Highlight & Contour Methods (2540 213- 2192

February 13th at 5pm Scissor Sisters Hair Show

544 W. Veterans Memorial Blvd
Harker Hights TX 76548 Suite. 110
Facebook.com/KimsHairKreations

Welcome & Intro

Welcome to Modern Makeup at Scissor Sisters salon. I am Kim, and I will be your instructor
for today. In today's class, we will be covering highlight and contour methods. Over the next
few hours you will be learning basic highlight and contour, using the products and tools you
have in front of you!

Course Theme
“I came, I saw, I contoured.”

Course Goals
• Prepare the face (cleanse & moisturize)
• Kit discussion & description (set up)
• Adjust lighting (learn how to find your contour & highlight zones)
• Foundation application (discuss zones for foundation & proper application)
• Ben Nye setting powder
• Highlight application
• Contour application
• Rouge/Banana Powder application
• Blending techniques
• Finished look, questions & discussion

Methods of Instruction
During today's class you will learn the proper way to prepare your face for your makeup
application. We will be discussing what materials your kit consists of, the importance of good
lighting, background information on Ben Nye and the difference between day time & evening
looks. You will observe as well as perform hands-on founation, highlight, contour, rouge and
blending techniques.

Course Requirements upon Arrival

• Pre book/pre pay
• Bring your own cleanser, toner & moisturizer
• Small bottle of baby oil
• Pen & paper for notes (if wanted)

Attendance & Repeat Classes

If you are unable to make your class you have 60 days to schedule another class. If you
decide you would rather not take the class the makeup is still yours. We do not give refunds!
 Scissor Sisters Hair Show
Outine: Modern Makeup “I came, I saw, I contoured.”

I. Thesis
Covering the basics of color theory. Learning highlight & contour techniques using Ben Nye
makeup. Exploring different face shapes and a variety of makeup application techniques.

II. Cosmetology overview

A. Color theory
• Color wheel
◦ The 3 primary colors are red, yellow & blue. These colors are considered be
foundation colors because they are used to create all other colors.
◦ Secondary (intermediate) colors are created by combining two of the primary
colors, three secondary colors are formed. The Secondary colors are
orange, green & violet.
◦ The six tertiary colors are made by combining a primary and an adjacent
secondary color. These colors are yellow-orange, orange-red, red-violet,
violet-blue, blue-green & green-yellow.
• Warm & cool colors
◦ Warm colors are bright, passionate and energetic, and tend to be eye-
popping colors. Warm colors include: red, orange, and yellow, and variations
of those three colors.  (In make-up artistry, reds can be both cool and warm.
If the red is blue based (a red with purple or blue undertone), it is cool. If the
red is orange based, it is warm.)
◦ Cool colors give an impression of calm, and create a soothing impression.
Cool colors include: violet, blue, and green. (In make-up artistry, the same
theory applies with the color green. If a green has more gold/yellow
undertone, then it is warm. If a green contains more blue undertone, then it is
cool. Whenever most colors have a blue undertone, they will always be a
cool color.)
• Skin colors
◦ Fair Skin–Light Ivory, Porcelain, Sand, Pale Peach Pink or slightly reddish
(rosy) undertones
◦ Medium Skin–Yellow, Gold, Beige, Natural, Red-Olive, Yellow-Green
◦ Medium-Dark Skin–Honey, Cameo, Copper, Olive, Tan, Golden-
Olive, Caramel
◦ Dark Skin–Orange-Brown, Red-Brown, Walnut, Almond, Blue-Black, Ebony,
Dark Chocolate
• Skin tones
◦ Cool Skintone – the skin has a little pink (rosiness) in their skin. They tend to
burn easily under the sun. People who look good in silver jewelry &
accessories. When they wearing a cool undertone red lipstick, they look
brightened up. Most of the time, their veins are in blue color (take a look at
the wrist under natural light).
◦ Warm Skinton – the skin has a yellow undertone or golden-olive undertone.
They tend to tan easily under the sun. People who look awesome in
 gold jewelry & accessories than silver. When they wearing a warm (orange)
undertone red lipstick, they look brightened up. Most of the time, their veins
are in green color (take a look at your wrist under natural light).
◦ Neutral Skintone–the skin has both pink and golden undertone. They look
good in both gold or silver jewelry. Most of the time, their vain is in both blue-
green color.
• Analogous Colors
◦ Analogous (or Adjacent) Colors are created by using three (or more) colors
that are next to each (side-by-side colors) on the color wheel. By grouping
analogous colors, it helps to create a better color blending effect, and it tends
set a stronger mood.
• Complimentary Colors
◦ Complementary color schemes are created by combining colors from
opposite sides of the color wheel. They bring out each other, they make a
visual contrast, thus both colors appear stronger against each other.
• Neutral Colors
◦ Black is the strongest of the neutral colors. On the positive side, it’s
commonly associated with power, elegance, and formality. On the negative
side, it can be associated with evil, death, and mystery.
◦ White is at the opposite end of the spectrum from black, but like black, it can
work well with just about any other color. White is often associated with
purity, cleanliness, and virtue. In the West, white is commonly worn by brides
on their wedding day. White is associated with goodness, and angels are
often depicted in white.
◦ Brown is associated with the earth, wood, and stone. It’s a completely
natural color and a warm neutral. Brown can be associated with
dependability and reliability, with steadfastness, and with earthiness. It can
also be considered dull.
◦ Beige is somewhat unique in the color spectrum, as it can take on cool or
warm tones depending on the colors surrounding it. It has the warmth of
brown and the coolness of white, and, like brown, is sometimes seen as dull.
It’s a conservative color in most instances, and is usually reserved for
backgrounds. It can also symbolize piety.
◦ Ivory and Cream are sophisticated colors, with some of the warmth of brown
and a lot of the coolness of white. They’re generally quiet, and can often
evoke a sense of history. Ivory is a calm color, with some of the pureness
associated with white, though it’s a bit warmer.

B. Face shapes
• Oval is the “ideal” face shape. The oval face shape is widest at the cheekbones,
but not by much. It narrows a tiny bit at the jawline and at the forehead. The
width of the forehead and the width of the jawline (corner to corner) is nearly
equal.
◦ Oval is a perfectly balanced face; the top half balances the bottom half.
Those who have oval face are extremely lucky because they have a perfectly
balanced face.
 ◦ Apply the concealer covering the area from underneath the eyes to the outer
cheekbones. Use a bit in the center of the forehead as well.
◦ Use two different shades of foundation. Apply the darker foundation to the
temples. Apply more of the makeup along the outer cheek and jaw line,
being sure to include the chin. Next, get your lighter foundation and place
that in the center of the face, including the areas around the eyes, nose,
lower forehead and upper lip.
◦ Contour powder is to be applied with a makeup brush to the fullness of the
forehead. Starting from the back of the bone, blend the powder into the area
below the cheekbones and down the jaw line. Apply blush to the
cheekbones, moving the brush forward.

• The square face does not narrow much from the cheekbone to the forehead, nor
from the cheekbone to the jawline. The square face may also look angular- the
jawline may appear sharply-angled at the corners, and even the forehead may
be squared off.
◦ A square-shaped face has very strong features at the temples and the jaw
line. Thus the main focus will be to elongate the appearance of the face by
bringing lightness to the cheekbones, the centre of the forehead and the
chin.
◦ Apply concealer to the top of the forehead, the chin and on any kind of lines
that you want to minimize. Take the sponge and blend the makeup into the
face. The cover up should extend from under the eyes all the way up into the
temples, especially if the facial structure recedes in that area.
◦ Using two different colour foundations, apply the deeper shade in the areas
that you want to minimize i.e., the square parts of the forehead and square
parts of the jaw line. Blend the makeup into the skin, avoiding the chin. You
may wish to bring a bit under the neck as well. Apply the lighter foundation to
the same spots that you used the concealer - chin, forehead and
cheekbones. Apply translucent powder to all areas of the face with a
cosmetic sponge.
◦ Apply contour powder to the same areas as you placed the warmer
foundation. Cover the square areas of the temples, keeping the centre light.
Apply the powder below the cheekbones and bring it forward right along the
square jaw. Using a makeup brush, apply the powder to the cheekbones
from the ear to the outer corner of the eye. Remember not to bring the blush
too high - you'll draw attention to the square features of the face and negate
the emphasis you just created for the cheekbones.
◦ Blend a rosy-toned cream blush on the apples of your cheeks. And, be sure
to "avoid anything harsh or severe" like strong eyeliners or lip colors.
◦ Try a soft sheer gloss or lip stain in pretty shades like sheer pinks or coral.

• Round face shapes are exactly as they sound- the widest point is across the
cheekbones, narrowing some at the forehead and jawline. This face shape is
not angular at all, and is wider than the typical oval or oblong face.
◦ A round face lacks dominant facial features and the principal object is to
counter the roundness of the face and give it a long and elongated shape. To
make the face appear longer, use makeup to create lightness from the lower
 lip to the chin and from the brows to the hairline.
◦ Begin by applying concealer to make the skin tone look equal. Apply
concealer in such a way that the cheekbones are highlighter while the jaw
line is lightened. Using a sponge, dab the cream under the eyes. Blend it in
up on the sides of the nose and out to the upper cheeks. Highlight the centre
portions of your face by applying concealer on the forehead and chin.
◦ For redefining a round face you need foundation of two different shades, one
light and one dark, which should be just one shade deeper than your skin
tone. Place the darker foundation, in the fullness at your temples, as well as
in the fullness of your jaw line. Keep the chin clear - this helps to make the
face look longer. Smooth the liquid into the skin using a sponge. If you find
that you have fullness under your chin and your neck, apply the darker
foundation down in that area. Blend the lighter foundation into the same
central areas that you placed the concealer - under the eyes, on the nose,
chin and forehead. Use a translucent powder to lightly cover the area.
◦ After the face shape has been corrected with foundation, apply a contour
powder and blush. Place the contour powder on the fullness of the temples
with a makeup brush. Continue to blend the powder down along the fullness
of the jaw, keeping the chin clear. Finally, apply blush directly onto the
cheekbones.
◦ To help add definition to your face, an overall bronzy look with smoky eyes.
◦ Blend bronzer underneath your cheekbones to add cut and definition.
◦ Opt for angular shaped brows to downplay the round shape of your face.
◦ Smoky eyes with strong liquid liners add definition to the face. So after
applying your smoky eyeshadow, finish off your eyes by lining them with
liquid liner.

• The triangle or pear shaped face is most narrow at the forehead, and widest at
the jawline. The jawline may be angular or rounded.
◦ Place some cream concealer on a cosmetic sponge and apply it around the
eye, on the nose and in the center of the forehead. Stay away from any
where in the jaw area.
◦ Two shades of foundation, one dark and one light. Using a cosmetic sponge,
dot the darker foundation along your full jaw line (including the chin) and in
the upper portion of the forehead. Blend. Take the lighter foundation and
apply it to the same areas that you covered with concealer - under the eye
out to the cheekbones, over the nose, across the temples.
◦ Using a makeup brush, apply contour powder below the cheekbones down
to the jaw and across the chin. This will help to further minimize the full jaw
line. Applying blush can be a bit tricky on this shape of face. Apply blush to
the cheekbones. By dividing the face in half in this manner, the emphasis
remains on the cheekbones.

• The heart shaped face is sometimes called the inverted triangle, particularly if
the hairline doesn't come to a point on the forehead. This face shape is the
opposite of the triangle or pear; it is widest at the forehead and it narrows toward
the jawline.
 ◦ To draw focus away from your prominent chin and cheekbones, wear
feminine, sheer and soft tones and add a pop of color on your mouth and
cheeks to downplay the strong, razor sharp cheekbones.
◦ Avoid highlighting, or adding sheen or glow on top of cheekbones as it'll
pronounce the already defined cheeks" in your face shape.
◦ Avoid harsh liners like liquid as it can look severe.
◦ Wearing soft feminine tones like sheer pinks or reds on lips and cheeks help
soften the shape of the face.

• The oblong face shape is rectangular, and has similar qualities as the square
face shape except that it's longer. It tends to be angular, but not always. Oblong
faces are pretty straight, with the cheekbones not any or much wider than the
forehead and jawline.
◦ Using a cosmetic sponge, apply a cream concealer under the eyes, blending
it all the way out to the cheekbones. You can also place a bit of concealer in
the middle of your forehead, across your nose and above your lip.
◦ Dab the foundation on the skin with a sponge, covering the temples, the jaw
line and the chin. Blend the foundation into the sides of the forehead and the
frontal bone of the eye.
◦ Apply powder below the cheekbone, including the jawbone and the chin.
This helps to soften the look of fullness in the face. You may also bring the
powder right under the neck. Apply blush from the back of the cheekbone
forward. Stop at the outer corner of the eye. Get a lighter color blush and
loosely brush the makeup a little closer into the apple of the cheeks.

• Diamond face shapes are not so common. They are characterized by a narrow
forehead and jawline, with the cheekbones being the widest point of the face.
The cheekbones are often high and defined on this face shape.
◦ In a diamond-shaped face more emphasis is to be given to the chin, the
cheeks and the forehead. Applying cosmetics can help to bring the facial
features forward.
◦ Apply concealer to get rid of any discolorations, redness, brownness etc.
Apply concealer into the center of the face to create a look of lightness.
Blend it in the center of the forehead, under the eyes and on the sides of the
nose.
◦ Use two different colors of foundation, one dark and one light. Using a
cosmetic sponge, apply the dark shade to the areas that you want to
minimize, such as the temples and the jaw line. Keep the center area where
you applied the concealer clear. Next, choose a lighter shade of foundation,
one that is very close to your natural color. Put it on the same areas that you
used the concealer - under the eyes, across the nose, forehead and chin.
Next, use a sponge to apply a translucent powder, preferably one that
doesn't have a color.
• After correcting the face shape with foundations, brush contour powder onto the
jaw line to help provide some facial definition. If you feel that your chin, temples
or frontal bone protrude, you can cover those areas with some contour powder.
To add colour to your face, apply some blush with a makeup brush. Starting
from the back of the bone, blend the blush forward.
C. Color Matching
• Ben Nye's Foundation provides a versatile blend of high pigmentation and
natural coloring in a light, smooth texture. For flawless application, apply as
needed to even out skin tone. For lighter coverage, apply with a moistened
sponge. Blend several shades for increased color matching accuracy!
• Ben Nye's Creme Foundations are remarkably diverse to subtly blend with all
complexions, or to theatrically transform performers into character. These
foundations blend effortlessly with concealers, rouges, highlights, shadows, and
creme colors. Intense pigmentation provides excellent coverage!
• Know your skin type!
◦ Normal skin type, not too dry and not too oily.
▪ No or few imperfections
▪ No severe sensitivity
▪ Barely visible pores
▪ A radiant complexion
◦ Combination skin type, can be dry or normal in some areas and oily in
others, such as the T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin). Many people have
combination skin, which may benefit from slightly different types of skin care
in different areas.
▪ Overly dilated pores
▪ Blackheads
▪ Shiny skin
◦ Dry skin type
▪ Almost invisible pores
▪ Dull, rough complexion
▪ Red patches
▪ Less elasticity
▪ More visible lines
▪ Skin can crack, peel, or become itchy, irritated, or inflamed
◦ Oily skin type
▪ Enlarged pores
▪ Dull or shiny, thick complexion
▪ Blackheads, pimples, or other blemishes
• Know your undertones!
◦ Undertones are the subtle tint or cast of color underneath your skin.
Knowing your undertones is essential to finding the right foundation because
only a foundation that matches both your skin tone and undertones is going
to blend in seamlessly. There are three types of undertones: Warm, neutral
 and cool. If you’re not sure what you are, look at the inside of your wrist.
Does the color look more pink or yellow? Pink means you have cool
undertones, yellow is warm and somewhere in between is neutral. If still
unsure, simply take a piece of pink and gold fabric and lay it on your arm to
see which one your skin looks more like. If it’s neither, then your skin is
neutral.
• Match point
◦ Bringing in a shade that you already own and know works for you and using
that as a reference point, is an option. Hold it up against all the other shades
and see which one is the closest match. If you don’t have a go-to shade,
choose the two or three hues that comes closest to your skin tone. Hold the
foundation up to your face and see which shade looks more like the skin
along your jawline. This also can be done by blending a small amount to the
neck area to get a good match.

III. Apply to model

A. Prepare your area
• Model must be cleansed & moisturized
• Make sure you have a clean & organized work space
• Adjust lighting (find your highlight & contour zones)
• Check that all tools & materials are present
• Product knowledge
◦ Foundation, highlight, contour & rouge usage
◦ Neutral set & banana powder usage
• Tool knowledge
◦ Brush descriptions
◦ Beauty blender description/usage

B. Begin your application

• Foundation application
• Ben Nye neutral set (setting powder)
• Highlight application
• Contour application
• Rouge/banana powder application

C. Blending & finishing techniques

• Last minute blending & finishing techniques
• Finished look
• Clean up area
• Questions & finishing discussion

IV. Self (client) Application

A. Prepare your area
• Cleanse & moisturize face (make sure face is clean of debris & dry)
 • Make sure you have a clean & organized work space
• Check that all tools & materials are present
◦ Brushes, beauty blenders, foundation, highlight, contour, banana powder,
neutral set & blush.
• Adjust lighting (find your highlight & contour zones)

B. Begin your application

• Foundation application
• Ben Nye neutral set (setting powder)
• Highlight application
• Contour application
• Rouge/banana powder application

C. Blending & finishing techniques

• Last minute blending & finishing techniques
• Finished look
• Clean up area

V. Closing Discussions & Questions