INFORMATION SHEET NO. 1.
1
INTRODUCTION of SEWING MACHINE
Learning Outcomes:
After reading this Information Sheet, you must be able to:
1. define sewing machine;
2. compare the different types of sewing machine; and
3. value the importance sewing machine.
INTRODUCTION
20,000 years ago, the only means of
stitching two pieces of fabric together is with the
use of a common needle and a length of thread.
The thread might be of silk, flax, wool or other
fibrous material. During that time Needles are
made of bone, silver, bronze, steel, or some other
metal with its thread-carrying eye had been an
ingenious improvement over the sharp bone,
stick, or other object used to pierce a hole
through which a lacing then had to be passed.
The earliest known sewing needles made of iron
come from the Celtic hill fort at Manching
Germany, and date to the third century BC.
On 19TH Century sewing machine is
considered as one of the most important inventions, sewing machine is used to stitch
the fabric and other pliable materials together with
threads. Sewing machine lessen the substantial of manual https://t.co/YsM5ouew6E?amp=1
sewing done in garment industries. Sewing machines reduce the amount of manual
sewing in preparing a garment or any other article. Sewing machines help the operator
in getting the work done quicker, with greater accuracy and much more consistently.
DEVELOPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
In 1755, Charles Fredrick Wiesenthal, a German man, was issued
a British patent for a “needle that is designed for a machine.”
Unfortunately, there’s no description in Wiesenthal’s patent of any
mechanical machine, but it shows there was a need for such an
invention.
In 1790: The First Detailed Design
The history of the sewing machine & who invented it
essentially starts here. Englishman Thomas Saint
designed the first sewing machine of its kind. The
patent described a machine powered with a hand
crank to be used for leather and canvas. Nobody
knows if Saint built a prototype, but in 1874, William Newton Wilson
found the patent drawings. They were so detailed, he built a replica,
proving that it did work.
In 1830 a French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier
(1793-1857), patented the first practical sewing
machine. It employed a hook-tipped needle, much like
an embroidery needle, that was moved downward by a
cord-connected foot treadle and returned by a spring.
Like Thomas Saint's machine, it produced a chain
stitch. By 1841, eighty of his machines were being
used to sew uniforms for the French army. However,
his factory was destroyed by a mob of tailors, who saw
the new machines as a threat to their livelihood.
Thimonnier died bankrupt in England.
The earliest idea for a double-thread sewing machine
came from Walter Hunt (1796-1860) of New York in
1834. Often called a Yankee mechanical genius,
(Hunt also invented the safety pin) Hunt devised a
machine that used a reciprocating eye-pointed
needle. It worked in combination with a shuttle
carrying a second needle, making an interlocked
stitch comparable to that of the modem machine. He
abandoned the project, however, convinced that his
invention would throw impoverished seamstresses out
of work.
.
In 1846, Elias Howe (1819-67) patented a sewing
machine with a grooved, eye-pointed needle and
shuttle. This lock stitch machine could sew nothing
but straight seams, which could not be longer than the
basing plate. Unsuccessful in marketing the device in
America, Howe went to England to adapt his machine
for an English corset-maker. He returned penniless to
find that sewing machines were being sold by many
manufacturers, all infringing on some part of his 1846
patent. In 1856, after favorable litigation, Howe entered into the world's
first patent pool.
In 1851, Isaac M. Singer (1811-75) patented the first
rigid-arm sewing machine. Before this, all machines
employed an overhanging arm that held the needle
directly and vibrated with it. Singer's machine also
included a table to support the cloth horizontally,
instead of a feed bar; a vertical presser foot to hold the
cloth down against the upward stroke of the needle,
and an arm to hold the presser foot and the vertical needle-holding bar in position over
the table. A real breakthrough was his invention of a foot treadle instead of a hand
crank. Parts of Singer's new machine were based on Howe's work. In fact, Singer was
sued by Howe for infringement of the latter's patent rights, but a compromise was
reached where Singer paid a royalty.
In 1850 American inventor Allen Benjamin
Wilson (1824-88) invented both the vibrating
and the rotating shuttle. Wilson developed a
prototype for a reciprocating-shuttle machine.
When the needle went through the cloth, it
formed a loop below the seam. A shuttle that
was pointed on both ends held a second thread
that was passed through the loop and as the
tension on the thread was tightened, a
lockstitch was made. This shuttle could be
moved both forward and backwards to form a
stitch on both movements, unlike the shuttles of Hunt and Howe,
which only created a stitch in one direction.
The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company started in 1857 as
the answer to Singer's more expensive machines. In 1855, James
Gibbs, a 24-year old farmer, first saw a woodcut illustration of a
sewing machine, and out of curiosity, he devised his own machine.
Two years later, while visiting a tailor in Virginia, he noticed a
Singer sewing machine, which he thought was too heavy,
complicated, and exorbitantly priced. Recalling his own invention,
he teamed up with James Willcox whose family was already
involved in building models of new inventions.
Together, they manufactured chain stitch sewing machines,
which, on a simple iron-frame stand with treadle, sold for
approximately $50. Similar machines sold for $100. The Singer
company then brought out their own light family machine in 1858,
but it also sold for $100. The Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine
Company prospered and even into the 1970s was producing
commercial machines, many of which were based on the original chain stitch principle.
Thousands of sewing machine
patents granted in the past 150 years,
hundreds of them have been by
women. Notable among them is Helen
Augusta Blanchard (1840-1922) of
Maine. Of her 28 patents, 22 of them
deal with sewing machines; she is
particularly by Henry Alonzo House in
1862The model for her 1973 over
seaming machine can be seen at the
Smithsonian.
Later in 1889, the machines run by electricity were designed
with motors fixed in them. At first, these were standard
machines with a motor strapped on the side. As with the
expansion of the power in houses, these became more popular
and the motor was gradually introduced into the casing. Later
innovations include the ability to make more sophisticated
stitching patterns.
In 1920’s the motor was plugged into the design by Singer
Sewing Company and replaced the foot- operated treadle and
make it work much faster. This is what we call the Industrial
Sewing Machine.
In the twenty-first century, sewing machine companies have
manufactured several type of machines used for different
sewing techniques and there are also computerized machines,
embroidery machines and special purpose machines
manufactured. The latest machines have LCD screens,
microprocessors, and pre-programmed fonts. Years passed
and the development of sewing machine still continues.
Categories of sewing machine
Types of Sewing Machine
Though there are different types of sewing machine but mainly, three types are
considered for sewing, as given below.
1. Mechanical sewing machines this machine have inner workings that consist of
gears, shafts, levers, less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machines in
terms of build. Mechanical machines do not have electronics such as circuit boards,
computer chips and software. Mechanical machines are still made today. Two type
of mechanical sewing machine:
1.1 Hand-operated sewing machine -this is the simplest form of
domestic sewing machine which is operated by hand. A handle is
attached to the flywheel which is detachable and is used to operate
the machine. Commonly used for domestic purpose for simple
projects as it does not work very speedily.
1.2 Treadle sewing machine- This machine is the same as a
hand-operated sewing machine but it is operated by feet, with an
additional stand attached to the machine. A belt is attached to the
lower stand passing through the balance wheel and driven by feet.
These machines run faster than the hand-operated sewing machine.
(This machine is also suitable for the places where there is no
electric supply.
2. Electronic sewing machine- In the 1970's electronic machines appeared.
Electronic machines build on the basic mechanical machine and add electronics such
as circuit boards, computer chips and additional motors to independently control
various aspects of the machine while it is running. It is essential to control the speed of
this machine by putting pressure on an electronic foot pedal.
3. Computerized sewing machines- These sewing machines allow the Operator to
modify the functions according to the sewing needs are very fast and specific to use, a
computerized sewing machine works with the help of various software’s. These sewing
machine functions very appropriately in designing and stitching various components of
the garment. Some advanced computerized machines have an LCD display or touch
screen. They are multi-function machines and are expensive.
Several types of electronic and computerized sewing machine according to their
specific applications.
1. Buttonhole machine is usually sewn with two parallel rows in a narrow zig-zag
stitch, with the ends finished in a bar tack created using a broader zig-zag
stitch. One of the first automatic buttonhole machines was invented by Henry
Alonzo House in 1862.It also reinforced holes in fabric that buttons pass
through, allowing one piece of fabric to be secured to another.
2. Button attaching machine Specially used for attaching the polo shirt and woven
shirt buttons. This machine is very useful in clothing industries. The first
mechanical button stitch machine was patented by Harrison Tone of Denison
Texas in January 24, 1888.
3. Bar-tack machine these machine has a zigzag pattern repeated perpendicular
over itself several times to make a sewn product stronger, and resistant to
tears or rips in the seams.
4. Feed off arm machine is used in making flat and felt seam. Two needle threads
form the chain stitch. This machine is used for sewing shirt side seams and
under arms, and for sewing jeans inseam.
5. Blind stitch machine is used when you do not desire the stitches to be seen,
this is accomplished by picking up only one thread at a time, Blind stitch
machine makes a 1 thread stitch which on the face side of the fabric appears to
be hidden. Clothing industries used machine in making men’s woman’s
clothing, plus household textiles like curtains Basically used for the luxurious
and high-class garments.
6. Hemming stitch machine used for
finishing hems. Traditionally, hemstitching was done by hand as threads were
removed from the fabric. Karl Friedrich Gegauf invented the first hemstitching
machine in 1893
7. Chain stitch sewing machine is formed by two or more sets of threads named
needle thread and looper thread. The sewing threads are bound together by
interloping and interlacing. Chain stitch machine speed normally kept at
8000spm.
8. Over-lock sewing machine also known as “serger sewing machine” used for
edge finishing and seaming. The overlock stitch can only sew on the edge of
the fabric. A sergers can be used for construction by joining the edges of two
pieces of fabric. Technically speaking, sergers have a built in cutter to trim the
edge of the fabric and overlock machines do not have a cutter, but in common
usage the term “serger” and “overlock machine” are interchangeable and mean
the same thing
Scan me (overlock
sewing machine threading)
9. Single Lock Stitch Machine are formed
with one needle thread and one bobbin
thread. this sewing machine is widely used for joining two or multiple fabric
plies together, can sew light weight, medium weight and heavy materials.
Two Categories of Lock stitch sewing machine
1. Domestic sewing machines These are designed mainly for one
person to sew individual dresses while using a single stitch type. Modern
sewing machines are designed in such a way that the fabric easily glides in
and out of the sewing machine, speeding the stitching process and saving
time and energy.
2. Industrial sewing machines- are a heavy-duty version of a standard
basic sewing machine, and it is used in garment and other related industries.
Industrial sewing machines are used for mass production. An industrial
machine is well equipped with a clutch and large servo motor.
COMPARISON BETWEEN DOMESTIC AND INDUSTRIAL SEWING
MACHINES
DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINES INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
Stitching not more than 1500 .
stitches per minute stitching from 3000–6000 stitches
per minute
presser foot generally presser foot on a power
operated manually using a lever machine is raised and lowered with
at the back of the needle bar. a knee lift to a special foot pedal
Lubrication manually done Lubrication is done automatically
Usually work on lightweight designed to sew heavy material
fabrics or work pieces. speedily, such as leather, canvas,
and vinyl
to be used for working a couple of run for longer hours, and able to
hours at a time, and you can stop deal with more powerful projects
and start your project easily.
Usually used in homes used for mass production.
Usually have one-foot pedal have a foot pedal or knee pedal or
both.
sewingmachineopinions.com/home-vs-industrial-sewing-machine/
Single Needle Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine
Credit to
GFD LABORATORY MANUAL 2020 Revised Edition
Olive C. Delfino
This is the most basic type of sewing machine used for heavy-duty purposes.
Main Parts:
1. Head – this is where most of the mechanical parts of the
machine is located.
2. Table – It serves as the base of the machine head where the
sewing process is performed.
3. Legs – It is the stand for the table of the machine.
4. Motor – It is the electrical power unit which allows the machine
to work.
Head
Table
Motor
Legs
https://www.pinterest.ph/dlrigter/indu
strial-sewing-machines/
PARTS OF SINGLE LOCK STITCH INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE
UPPER THREAD TENSION
THREAD GUIDE
Thread THREAD
THREE TAKE-UP
HOLE LEVER
THREAD EYELET
Stand – It
THREAD TENSION ASSEMBLY
is where THREAD STAND
the thread PULL UP ARM
used for
sewing
rests
LOWER THREAD
GUIDE
STITCH REGULATOR
NEEDLE BAR
1. Needle clamp
REVERSE LEVER
NEEDLE
2. NEEDLE GUARD
3. PRESSER FOOT BOBBIN WINDER
SLIDE PLATE
SWITCH
KNEE LIFTER
ROTARY HOOK ASSEMBLY
CLUTCH
OIL RESERVOIR
OIL RESERVOIR
OIL RESERVOIR
Motor
TREADLE
BREAK
4. Thread guides – it serves as a guide where the thread passes through
while sewing.
5. Upper thread tension – it controls the delivery of thread from the thread
stand
6. Three-hole thread eyelet – this three-hole guide and control the thread
from the upper thread tension.
7. Thread tension assembly – this is the control mechanism for the upper
thread while sewing.
8. Thread take-up lever – This part of the machine goes up and down as it
pulls the thread from the upper thread tension assembly.
9. Needle clamp – this holds the needle securely while sewing.
10. Presser foot – it holds the fabric down and presses it unto the feed
mechanism.
11. Feed dog – this serves as the teeth of the machine and works in
conjunction with the presser foot.
12. Pull up arm – it is a lever which when pulled up lifts the presser foot
after the machine is used.
13. Stitch regulator – It controls the length of stitches as needed for sewing.
14. Band wheel – located at the right side of the head, it serves as a pulley
which turns the belt of the machine around.
15. Reverse lever – it reverses the movement of the feed dog when pushed.
16. Switch – the power switch turns the machine on and off as it is pushed.
17. Oil reservoir – this contains the machine oil which lubricates the
mechanical parts inside the head of the machine.
18. Rotary hook assembly - located under the machine head, it holds the
bobbin case which serves as the lower thread compartment.
19. Slide plate – as the bobbin case is inserted under the machine, the slide
plate is opened so that the bobbin case will be placed properly on the
shuttle.
20. Knee lifter – it is the circular plate on the knee level that, when pushed,
lifts the presser foot.
21. Treadle – it is the platform where the feet rest while sewing. The clutch
is pushed with the toes and allows the machine to run, while the brake
is pushed with the heel and allows the machine to stop.
