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Underbody Coating
AUTOMOTIVE UNDERBODY COATING 1) INTRODUCTION :- A car’s underbody is exposed to the most wear and tear
caused by muddy water, potholed roads, stones and other obstacles on the road. Because it’s not in plain sight, we
often do not see the damage. 2) UNDERBODY :- This method involves spraying a tar-based…

Shubham Verma
updated on 29 Mar 2023 comment Share Project

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AUTOMOTIVE UNDERBODY COATING

1) INTRODUCTION :-

A car’s underbody is exposed to the most wear and tear caused by muddy water, potholed
roads, stones and other obstacles on the road. Because it’s not in plain sight, we often do
not see the damage.

2) UNDERBODY :-

This method involves spraying a tar-based substance on the exposed parts of a vehicle's
underbody. The tar-like undercoating acts as a barrier once it hardens, keeping out
moisture, salt, and other substances. This undercoating works best when applied to the
undercarriage of a new vehicle.

Rustproofing and undercoating your vehicle can protect it from corrosion and rust. This is
especially important for the undercarriage of your vehicle, which commonly comes into
contact with substances such as water, chemicals such as salt, and other dirt and debris
from the road. Without some sort of protection, the bottom of your vehicle can rust and
corrode, leading to part failure.

3) UNDERBODY COATINGS :–

A coating composition which adheres to the underbody of an automobile and protects the
underbody from the environment. The coating composition includes a polymeric
composition which, when coated onto an automobile underbody, allows small road debris
to embed into the coated composition while traveling to provide further protection to the
underbody. An acceptable level of weight gain of sand in the coating is at least about five
to forty weight percent based on the weight of the coated composition. Another
embodiment is a coating composition having a viscosity of at most about 1000 centipoise
atBook
150 °Ca and
Live includes
Demo a styrene-rubber
styrene diblock copolymer, a styrene
styrene-rubber-styrene
styrene
triblock copolymer, and a polar-functionalized polymeric material. The rubber portions of
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the diblock and triblock copolymers are individually selected from the group consisting of
ethylene-butylene, ethylene-propylene, and mixtures thereof.

4) DESCRIPTION :-

It is commonplace to provide a coating to the metallic underbody of an

automobile to protect the underbody from attack by road salt, water, and
impinging road debris which cause rust and corrosion of the automobile
underbody. In the past, conventional underbody coatings based on
polyvinylchloride were attractive to the industry because they are relatively
inexpensive and easy to apply.
Recently, however, the burning of halogenated materials, such as
polyvinylchloride, have been suspected of contributing to the depletion of the
ozone layer in the atmosphere. During exposure to high temperatures,
polyvinylchloride releases chlorine usually in the form of hydrogen chloride or
dioxins, which are some of the materials suspected of causing depletion of the
ozone layer and its associated problems. Such high temperatures occur, e.g.,
when the automobile is junked and the unused parts are incinerated under
uncontrolled conditions. It is both expensive and difficult to design incineration
plants which can incinerate polyvinylchloride in a controlled manner. It is,
therefore, desirable to provide an underbody coating which is not based on PVC
or other halogenated materials.
In addition, for the underbody coatings to be attractive to the industry, it is
desirable that the underbody coatings be sprayable, i.e., have a low enough
viscosity to be spray-applied. It is also desirable that the underbody coating be
recyclable, solventless, and resistant to oxygen, ozone, ultraviolet light, abrasion,
and high temperatures, have high cohesive strength, and adhere well to the
underbody of an automobile to protect the underbody from the environment.
It is also desirable to have an underbody coating which allows small particulates
of road debris, such as dust, dirt, and sand, to embed into the surface of the
underbody coating while the automobile is traveling to provide a further barrier to
moisture and other factors of the environment.
One attempt at providing an improved automobile underbody coating is
discussed in European Patent Application 0 546,635 Al to DeKeyzer, et al. (EP '635).
However, the coating compositions disclosed in EP '635 have much higher than
desirable viscosities due to higher than desirable weight percentages of polymer
content, which make it difficult, if not impossible for the coating to be spray-
applied, even though it was stated therein that they had actually sprayed it. Also,
the coating compositions disclosed in EP '635 do not allow road debris, such as
dust, dirt, and sand, to effectively embed into the coating surface. Besides that,
the underbody coating of '635 incorporates too much polymer, which is the most
expensive part of the composition. This high polymer content also hinders the use
of additives or other types of polymer.
It is, therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a protective coating
composition for an underbody of an automobile which is not based on
halogenated materials and which may be uniformly spray- applied to the
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underbody, is recyclable, is solventless, is resistant to oxygen, ozone, ultraviolet

light, abrasion, and high temperatures, has high cohesive strength, and adheres
well to the underbody.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a protective coating
composition for an underbody of an automobile which, when coated onto an
automobile underbody, allows road debris, such as dust, dirt, and sand, to embed
into the surface upon impact to provide a further protection to the automobile
underbody.
available in both thin film and foaming types are designed to provide a critical protective
barrier between the road and vulnerable underbody surfaces. In addition to protecting
from moisture and impact, the foaming‐type products provide excellent sound dampening
properties.

Before rustproofing or undercoating your undercarriage, you need to consider a few things.

The advantages and disadvantages of rustproofing/undercoating your vehicle :-

The best time to rustproof or apply undercoating protection is when you buy a brand new
vehicle that hasn't been driven yet. In essence, ask the dealership to apply the protection
before you even drive off the lot. For used vehicles, rustproofing could just be a waste of
time, as all you are really doing is covering up dirt and grime that already exists on the
vehicle.
Apply protection while at the dealership. Many dealerships offer rustproofing or
undercoating as an add-on when buying a new car.
This represents the best time to have an undercoating applied, as the underbody of the
vehicle is probably the cleanest it will ever be.

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If you only plan on keeping the vehicle for a few years, you might consider sparing the
expense and foregoing getting an undercoating applied.
Applying an undercoating on a used vehicle. Another option to having an undercoating
applied at the dealership is to have one applied at a later time.
This applies most commonly to used vehicles. While the underside of the vehicle has
already been exposed to water, dirt, and other debris from the road at this point, applying
an undercoating now can protect it from further exposure.

5) MODERN AUTOMOTIVE COATING PROCESS :-

Modern automotive coating methods consist of five main steps. They include the
following:
➢ Pretreatment: removes and cleans excess metal and forms an appropriate surface
structure enabling bonding of a corrosion protection layer.
➢ The next step is electrodeposition (ED) of the anti-corrosion or rust prevention layer.
➢ A sealer like Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) is applied for anti-corrosion, elimination of water
leaks, and minimization of chipping and vibrational noise.
➢ A primer is then applied to promote adhesion between the surface and the basecoat it
also imparts a smoother surface for subsequent layers and has anti-chipping properties.
➢ Finally, the topcoats that include a basecoat and clearcoat are applied; they provide
surface properties that are sought after, including color, appearance, gloss, smoothness,
and weather resistance.The areas of an automobile depicted in Figure1show where these
five steps of coating and other additional coatings are used. As can be realized when
examining this figure, a significant number of specific coatings and materials are needed
in addition to the above-listed steps to manufacture a salable automobile.

Pretreatment
When the automobile body sheet metal components are welded together, the resulting
structure is referred to as the body-in-white (BIW). The first sequence in preparing the
BIW for subsequent coating is pretreatment . Pretreatment consists of cleaning the body
surface to remove remaining oils from the stamping process and welding residues through
three primary liquid dip processes of degreasing, conditioning, and phosphating. An
additional pretreatment cleaning that employs ~pH 9 hot water can also be used.
Pretreatment helps the primer to bond onto the metal. A phosphate treatment applies an

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inert layer of metal phosphate, providing resistance to corrosion spread . The

degreasing solution is composed of alkaline salts and surfactants and can include caustic
soda, trisodium phosphate, and sodium carbonate. The surfactants are types of detergents
for emulsifying oils and lubricants on the BIW. The degreasing zone typically consists of at
least two sequences, including a spray stage known as knock-off-degrease (KOD) and a
dip sequence. The advantage of using these two is that a significant portion of the oil and
dirt will be removed by the high-pressure spray, thereby leaving a relatively lower load for
the
dip sequence to clean. The next sequence is surface conditioning (also called activation),
which creates nucleation sites for phosphate crystal growth. It increases the number of
crystallization nuclei on the metal surface that enhance bonding mechanisms for the
subsequent phosphate sequence. In conditioning, an aqueous dispersion of titanium
orthophosphate with pH between 8 and 10 is typically used. Finally, the liquid dip phosphate
solution is composed of phosphoric acid, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, zinc and other
divalent metal ions, hydrogen ions, and an accelerating compound. The free acid etches
the steel surface, causing hydrogen to be released while metal phosphate ions are
precipitated onto the surface in a crystalline form. The primary objective during
phosphating is to deposit a thin, dense and
uniform conversion layer on the cleaned and prepared metal surface.

Electrodeposition (ED)
The metal underbody and frames of automobiles are coated to prevent corrosion, whereas
other areas like the roof are not rust-proofed. When not coated to prevent corrosion, the
structural metals (or other materials) are primed before applying additional coatings.
Figure displays types of corrosion protection coatings for cold rolled steel.

An SCGA electrodeposition solution having a 90% Zn–10% Fe composition (GAmaterial) is

the primary coating used in modern automobiles to prevent corrosion. In comparison to
the SGC solution, i.e., GI material, with 100% Zn during electrodeposition, the GA material
minimizes ED gas pin (paint quality defects) and maximizes spot welding performance;
however, the SGC process is still used in Europe. The SCGM corrosion protection method

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was used in previous decades, and it did enable minimization of ED gas pin. However, its
cost was higher than the GA material coating. The electrodeposition coat or E-coat
provides rust and corrosion protection and was first introduced in the 1960s. Since then the
use of E-coat has grown at a rapid pace. By 1970, 10% of all cars were electrocoated and by
1990, 90% of all cars were electrocoated. Today, it is the most conventional coating process
used in vehicle manufacturing. The E-coat process has not only grown at a rapid rate but
has changed significantly since it was first introduced. From 1964 to 1972 an anodic E-coat
process was used, and from 1976 to the present, a cathodic E-coat has been used. The E-
coat film thickness has also varied during this time frame. Thicknesses started at 25 µm
and remained that way until 1976 when the cathodic process was adopted, and an 18 µm
thickness was established; it remained at this value until 1984, when the film thickness was
increased to 35 µm. This relatively thick film was used until 1992 when E-coat film
thicknesses were decreased to the current value of 20 µm.The E-coat solution consists of a
mixture of resin, binder, a paste containing the
pigments, and a solvent. During anodic electrodeposition, metal parts are positively
charged while the paint is negatively charged; because small amounts of metal ions
migrate into the
paint film, it limits the performance properties of the coating. Hence, anodic coatings are
mainly used for interiors and offer excellent color and gloss control. In cathodic
electrodeposition, the metal part is negatively charged while the paint is positively
charged. In contrast to the anodic process, the cathodic process reduces the amount of
iron that can enter into the paint film. Hence, cathodic coatings offer high performance and
excellent corrosion resistance and have mostly replaced anodic coatings in North America.
The Ecoat process is considered to be relatively environmentally friendly; it uses only a 0.5%
solvent solution.
The pH of the solvent in the ED tank is a measure of the balance of acidic and caustic
components in the tank. The balance is dominated by the functional groups in the resin
and the neutralizing agents. A decreased pH in the cathodic ED tank lowers film thickness
so that higher voltage needs to be applied with the danger of rupture effects. The pH can
be influenced by the pretreatment chemicals in a detrimental way. In such a case,
conductivity and pH drift to values outside of the specification and corrections have to be
made by replenishing ultrafiltrate with deionized water (D.I.) water.

E-coating involves dipping automobile bodies into the coating solution and passing an
electric current through the body and the liquid ED paint solution. Because of the charged
nature of this coating process, the ED paint penetrates into places a spray would not reach.
The ED paint is promoted to bond with the metal substrate, and a uniform coating
thickness is produced. The result is an insoluble, deposited layer with a very high solids
content and firm adherence to the pretreated body .

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During operation, a mixture of resin, binder, and a paste containing the pigments is fed into
the electrodeposition tank. The automobile body is lowered into the tank, and an electric
current applied; the solution in the tank consists of 80%–90% deionized water and 10%–20%
paint solids (consisting of resin, binder, and pigment). The deionized water acts as a carrier
for the paint solids, which are under constant agitation. The resin is the backbone of the
final paint film and provides corrosion protection, durability, and toughness. Pigments are
used to provide color and gloss. To control paint performance during cathodic E-coating,
purging of the paint and regulating the amount of applied voltage are essential. As the
coating grows in thickness, it becomes more and more insulating, thereby causing the
deposition process to
slow. As an automobile body exits the tank, paint solids adhering to the surface but not
bound to the surface are rinsed off to recover the ED solids via an ultra filtration unit to
ensure surface smoothness.
After the E-coat, the automobile body enters a bake oven, in which heating and keeping at
a temperature of 160 ˝C for 10 min causes film curing to promote maximum performance
properties. The oven temperature and heating time primarily enhance chip resistance and
film adhesion to the body; corrosion protection is affected less by these conditions.
Because surface roughness influences the smoothness and brilliance of the topcoat, some
sanding of the surface is usually performed to remove or eliminate defects
before the body enters the next application step.

A common challenge in the current E-coating process is that of water spots that
contaminate coated surfaces. These spots can appear on the air-dried surface if water
droplets from the conveyor or other sources fall on the body, especially if the water in the
tanks is not deionized properly and has high conductivity; the water spots are usually a
remnant of unwanted ions in the water and will cause problems in subsequent coating
applications and their adherence and appearance. If water spots are present, they have to
be removed by sanding. Hence, it is necessary to use well-deionized water and routinely
monitor its conductivity. Alternately, operators also add surfactants or ultrafiltrates to the
water rinse zone to eliminate or manage water spots.

The Difference Between Rust Protection and Undercoating

Undercoating and rust protection often go hand-in-hand, but they are actually two
different things. Rust protection generally goes inside your vehicle, while undercoating is
used for protection outside of the vehicle, and there are a variety of coatings available.

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Depending on the level of damage and how much protection you want for your vehicle will
determine which type of automotive undercoating you choose.

6) DIFFERENT TYPES OF UNDERCOATINGS :-

Having undercoating professionally applied to your vehicle can be expensive, but
fortunately, if your budget is tight, you can do it yourself for a fraction of the price. Here are
some of the various types of undercoating available.

Now let us look at the various kinds of automotive underbody coating you can go for, for
your vehicle.

A) RUBBERIZED UNDERCOATING :-

Rubberized Vehicle undercoating is easy to apply and offers sound-cushioning as well as

protection from dust, moisture, and dings or dents.

In addition to your undercarriage, rubberized undercoating is also safe to use on wheel

wells and quarter panels, and dries to a soft rubbery finish that prevents further rust,
damage, or moisture seeps. The coating can be painted over and, if necessary for
bodywork, can be easily removed with an undercoating removal spray.

Overall, rubberized undercoating is generally the best option for protecting your vehicle's
undercarriage, as it provides the simplest and best protective measures against rust and
moisture.

This is generally thought of as the best underbody coating for your car. It preserves the
underbody well, protecting it from scratches. Applying this to the undercarriage is not
much of a hassle either.

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Ideal for cars driven in rough terrain, as its name suggests, this undercarriage coating
involves applying a rubber agent to the underbelly to protect and cushion it against dents,
dust, and moisture.

It can also be applied around wheel wells and quarter panels. Considered the
best option for standard vehicles when it comes to the different types of
undercoating.
Advantages:
Easy to apply
Quickly applied with no fuss
Undercoat can be painted for a neat finish
Provides satisfactory protection
The simplest way to undercoat your car
Safe to apply
Truly dries to a soft rubbery finish that prevents further rust, damage, or moisture seepage

Examples of rubberized undercoating include 3M 3584 Professional Grade

Rubberized Undercoating Rust-Oleum Black Rubberized Undercoating, 3M Body
Schutz Rubberized Coating Black, SEM 40523 Low Voc Rubberised Undercoating
Aerosol.
B) WAX OR PARAFFIN-BASED UNDERCOATINGS :-
A paraffin-based undercoating will be the cheapest and quickest option available with
which to protect the undercarriage of your vehicle. However, keep in mind that it will wear

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off quicker than other types of undercoating and will need to be stripped and reapplied at
least once every year.

Wax-based undercoatings never truly harden. During application, they drip or flow into
seams and cracks to provide protective properties. They are usually available in a spray
gun canister or in an aerosol can and offer at least a base protection in moderately humid
climates.

This – more or less – ephemeral undercoating will wear away in a few months’ time. On the
upside, wax-based undercoating puts up a big fight against moisture. It is also the most
affordable option out there.

It is the preferred undercarriage coating for cars often driven on highways and normal
roads. Sometimes referred to as wax-based undercoating, it provides sufficient guard for
cars in fairly moist regions.

Advantages:
Readily flows into seams to guarantee any exposed and prone surfaces are protected
The most inexpensive undercoating option
Conveniently available in spray guy canisters or aerosol cans

An example of a Wax/ Paraffin Undercoat is Fluid Film 1, a rust inhibitor, anti-corrosion, and
anti-rust undercoat.

Disadvantages:
Wears off quicker in comparison to other types
Unlike the rubberized type, it does not really dry

Needs to be stripped and reapplied at least once a year as soon as signs of wear and tear
start to show.
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C) ASPHALT BASED AUTOMOTIVE UNDER COATING :-

For standard vehicles, any of the aforementioned types of undercoating will provide
sufficient protection. For large trucks and heavy machinery, asphalt-based undercoating
provides a bit of extra durability against rocks, chips, and moisture.

Asphalt-based undercoating generally contains a little bit of rubberized material that sets
up firmly and also helps soften noise. Generally sold in five gallon containers, this type of
undercoating also needs more cure time than the other three, and is NOT paintable,
making it best to use only for undercarriages.

Best suited for lorries, trucks and large vehicles this provides a greater degree of protection
compared to rubber-based coatings. However, asphalt-based coatings contain little
amounts of rubber for sound-insulation purposes. The process of applying this coating is a
bit time-consuming though.

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Unlike the rubberized, wax/paraffin-based, and Polyutherane undercoatings, this type is

made of asphalt and generally also contains some rubberized material that sets up firmly
and helps soften noise from the engine.

It reportedly has the most damage-resistant properties. Although asphalt-based

undercoating is ideal for trucks, military, and all-terrain vehicles, it will also help protect
your car, truck, motorcycle, and heavy machinery from the elements.

It last long and is best for endurance vehicles that have to undergo heavy road use.

When it comes to large trucks, heavy machinery, military, and all-terrain vehicles, asphalt-
based undercoating provides added durability against rocks, chips, and moisture. It’s
usually available from professional service shops.

Advantages:
Formulated to protect from dirt, rust, and corrosion, it normally has a shelf life of up to two
years. Sold in five-gallon containers
Provides extra durability as it is the strongest and thickest undercoating available

Examples of asphalt-based undercoats are Rust Bullet, an automotive inhibitor paint for
rust preventive and protective coating. As well as Skyco-Ospho protective coating.

Disadvantages:
It takes time to harden and so requires more cure time than the other three types
Unlike the other three, it is also, not paintable as such, not very aesthetically suitable for
standard vehicles
For best used only for the undercarriages of utility vehicles and trucks

The only type of undercoating with a limited warranty

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D) POLYURETHANE UNDERBODY COATING :-

The other option for undercoating your vehicle is to use a polyurethane based sealent. This
type of vehicle undercoating is a little bit quicker and easier to apply.

Oftentimes, polyurethane undercoating will come in canisters ready to preload into an

application gun. This type of sealant works by seeping into all cracks and seams,
displacing salt and moisture and oozing around rusty areas to bond with and protect
unoxidized metal. It also sands quickly in case you'll need to perform bodywork and can be
painted over.

On the flipside, this type of car undercoating generally requires a little bit more surface
prep work before applying -- sanding and applying an etching primer to bare metals
before using are generally recommended.

This coating closes up splits and fractures on the underbody of the vehicle. It offers up
good protection against corrosion and also bonds with the metal. Unlike in the case of
asphalt-based coating, you can paint over the polyurethane coating.

Uses a polyurethane-based sealant that comes in canisters ready to be loaded

into a spray gun and sprayed to guard the undercarriage of your vehicle.
The polyurethane used in this product is a high-quality and durable material that is perfect
for any weather condition. It is ideal for standard vehicles.

Advantages:
It has a long lifespan and is resistant to wear and tear

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Easily and quickly applicable

Trickles into cracks and rusty spots already present on the underbelly of your car and fills
them, hence protecting the underlying metal
Quick and simple to remove, as it sands easily
Dislodges salt, moisture, and oozing around rusty areas to bond with and protect
unoxidised metal
Can be painted over

An example of a Polyutherane undercoat is Adam’s SiO2 Infused Invisible

Undercarriage Dressing Spray for car detailing.
Disadvantages:
For better adherence, needs undercarriage preparation before application
Requires time-consuming etching with primer to bare metals

E) WATER-BASED UNDERCOATING :-

Water-based undercoating is a protective layer that helps your car stay protected from
harsh weather conditions. It is made from an advanced polymer that is non-toxic and
environmentally friendly.

The product can be applied to any surface, including metal, plastic, rubber, and glass. It will
keep your car protected from rust, salt, and moisture. This undercoating provides a
protective barrier that lasts for only a year-depending on where you drive your car.

When it comes to DIY (Do it Yourself) undercoating, this type is the most popular. Coming in
an aerosol can, it can be purchased from most automotive shops. This product is easy to
apply and can be done in a single day.

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Advantages:
Thin-set, it takes a short time to dry
Can be done at home

Examples of Water-based undercoats are Total Coat Automotive Sprayable Undercoating,

Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, CRC SP-300 Corrosion Inhibitor, and
the Evapo-Rust-Block Water-Based Rust Inhibitor.

Disadvantages:
It requires frequent repetition as it’s not very durable
It cannot repel ice and water like petroleum-based undercoating

F) PETROLIUM-BASED UNDERCOATING :-

Petroleum-based undercoating is a heavy, viscous oil-based liquid product that provides

an effective barrier against moisture and corrosion.

The liquid dries and hardens to provide tough, durable, and long-lasting protection against
moisture and corrosion. This product is typically applied to the undercarriage of
automobiles, trucks, and other vehicles.

Petroleum-based undercoating can be purchased from your professional vehicle servicing

shops.

Advantages:
Has greater deflective abilities for road salts and grime

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Repels ice and water because of its petroleum base

Examples of Petroleum-Based undercoating are CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor and
the Fluid Film Rust Inhibitor for rust prevention and anti-corrosion.

Disadvantages:
Requires annual replacement

7) ADVANTAGES OF UNDERCOATING :-
Now we will tell you why you should consider investing in a vehicle underbody coating.

FIGHTS RUST

It plays an important role in keeping corrosion at bay. Underbody coating can come in
handy especially if you live near the sea, where there is too much humidity, and rusting is
just one of those everyday things. You should also seriously consider undercoating if you
reside in a place where it snows in winter.

ABSORB NOISE
Believe it or not, very thick undercoating can soften the noises that reach the cabin. Since
the undercoating is often made up of rubber it absorbs some of the rackets. The occupants
of the car could spare themselves of the road noises – at least up to a certain extend.

REINFORCEMENT
If your car comes with stock underbody coating, using another coating on top of it, is not
going to hurt. It will offer additional reinforcement, protecting the underbody from water,
road debris, gravel and small pebbles. There would also be a lesser chance for the factory
coat to flake away.

PROLONG CAR'S LIFE

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Good undercoating not only defends the underbody from corrosion but also protects the
engine and transmission as well! Less rusting coupled with slower wear and tear can surely
add years to the lifespan of your vehicle. There would be fewer dents, dings and scratches
on the undercarriage for you to fret about.
Warranty and Other Perks

Underbody coatings can also make it easier for you to clean the car. Besides these, the
coating provides a bit of thermal insulation making travelling by road easier even during
summers.

Undercoating can be applied as a liquid, typically sprayed or brushed on, then allowed to
dry. It helps to protect the axle, engine, brake system, transmission, exhaust and fuel
systems, suspension parts, gas tank, floorboards.

Undercoating can be sprayed on any type of car, truck, or SUV. The type one chooses to use
is often determined by the level of damage your car has sustained and/or the extent to
which you would like to protect its underbelly.

There are several types of undercoating and their specific brand examples currently
available on the market.

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8) DIFFERENT TYPES OF RUSTPROOFING/UNDERCOATING METHODS :-

When having your vehicle rustproofed or an undercoating applied, you have a few options
to choose from. Whether you prefer the latest technology or a more tried and true method,
knowing what the different options are should allow you to choose the best one for your
vehicle.

A) SPARY METHOD :-

The spray is the most common method used by dealers. The spray consists of a tar-like
substance that is applied to the undercarriage. It functions as a barrier for salt, moisture,
and oxygen, which causes corrosion.
You can also purchase it as a DIY product, but the whole magic lies behind the method of
application, so it’s better to do the job with a dealer, especially if you have a new vehicle.

B) ELECTRONIC METHOD :-

Using a weak electric current, this small device can stop the corroding effects of rust.
You can have these electronic devices installed at the dealership, or save some money and
buy them from a source outside of the dealership.
The reviews on these devices are mixed, as this is a virtually new technology.

C) DRIPLESS OIL SPARY METHOD :-

A wax-like substance applied to the entire body of the vehicle, it hardens once it has dried.
One of the downsides of dripless oil sprays is that you need to have holes drilled into the
body of the car at specific points to make it effective.
The spray also has a high viscosity, meaning that it does not always get into all of the
nooks and crannies of your vehicle.

D) DRIP OIL SPRAY METHOD :-

This is the most commonly recommended rust protection.

Drip oil sprays tend to continue to drip once applied until they dry. This dripping can last
anywhere up to 48 hours after application.
Unlike the dripless varieties, the more watery nature of drip oil sprays means it gets into
more areas on your vehicle, though you still need to have holes drilled in your vehicle's
fenders, doors, and other areas to make sure that it gets to all the areas it needs to.

9) HOW TO APPLY AND REMOVE UNDERCOATING :-

A– CLEANING THE UNDERBODY :-

You have to remove all debris and contaminants from the chassis to start with the
undercoating process. It is another way to maintain your car in routine. You will need a
hydraulic hoist or lift to complete this step in the right manner.Here is how you can clean
the underbody.

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Degreaser:

A high-quality commercial-grade degreaser would be helpful in removing oil and grime

from the undercarriage. Follow the exact steps listed on the cover or recommended by the
manufacturer. Spray the degreaser, then allow it to soak for a moment, then wipe it off with
a microfiber towel or shop rag.

Grinding:

Now, grind the existing hard contaminants and rust from the undercarriage and other
components that you want to treat. You can use a mild grinding pad to remove the debris
easily, but remember to wear eye protection while doing it.

Sanding:

After degreasing and grinding, remove those scratches and other stubborn contaminants
using a 200 to 400 grit.

Use a Tack Rag or IPA solution:

To wind up the cleaning process, wipe down the area with a tack rag or IPA solution.

B – APPLYING PRIMING :-
You will need a primer for applying DIY consumers. Primers serve as a basecoat. You need
to follow the instructions listed by the manufacturer for expected results. The
recommended primers usually contain a high level of zinc. Zinc helps in reducing rusting,
even if the protective layer is penetrated.

C – APPLYING UNDERCOATING :-
This is the final step. The undercoating sprays are similar to bed liners. Most products are
applied in two steps as dual layers. The first layer should be thin, covering the entire
surface. Allow it to rest at least for an hour, especially if you are applying a rubberized
undercoating.

After this layer has been dried, you can apply the second coat generously. Don’t forget to
apply it as per the instructions given by the manufacturer. It will take a few hours to days
for curing.

When you are done with the process, you need to look after the undercarriage to protect it
from saltwater, road grime, or mag chloride as these contaminants are corrosive and result
in oxidation and rusting.

Materials Needed

Degreaser
Grinder
Microfiber towels
Paint (black automotive paint)
Paint Brush
Primer
Safety Glasses
Sandpaper (at least 220 grit or larger)
Scraper
Undercoating
Undercoating removal spray
Vehicle hoist

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While you could pay someone to apply an undercoating to your vehicle, you can also save
money by doing it yourself. Before beginning, make sure you have the right equipment to
successfully complete the task and enough space to complete the task safely.

Clean the underbody. Start by cleaning the underbody of the vehicle.

This requires you to put the vehicle up on a hoist.
Using a degreaser, clean the underside of the vehicle.
Next, remove all rust from the undercarriage using a grinder. Make sure to wear eye
protection when doing so.
Sand any remaining rust using sandpaper designed for metal. You need a sandpaper with
a grit of at least 220 or larger.
Wipe away all of the dust created from grinding and sanding.
Paint and prime the underbody. After removing any rust, it is time to prime and paint the
underside of the vehicle.
Start by priming all of the areas you cleaned of rust. One of the best primer types to use is a
high zinc primer. Allow the primer to dry.
Your next step is to paint over the primer with black automotive paint. Allow the paint to dry.
Undercoat the underbody. The last step in the process requires you to apply an
undercoating to the underbody of your vehicle.
Apply the undercoating liberally to the underbody of your vehicle. Make sure to apply it to
every part that you expect to be exposed to the road. Allow this coat to dry for at least an
hour, or longer if the instructions call for it.
Apply a second coat of undercoating to the bottom of your vehicle. Allow this coat to dry
overnight before driving on the road.

Tip: Use a rubberized undercoating for best results. A rubberized undercoating is more
durable and seals better, protecting the metal from exposure to water.

Removing an undercoating. Removing an undercoating is a simple process.

Spray the undercoating with an undercoating removal spray.
Once the undercoating has been softened enough, use a scraper to remove the
undercoating.

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10) CONCLUSION :-

Using an aftermarket underbody coating offer extra protection. The thicker underbody
coatings used on cars also act as effective sound dampeners. They can reduce road noise
and tyre noise and make the cabin seem quieter due to the sound absorptive nature of
rubberized paints.

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