RL 2011 2012
RL 2011 2012
2011-12 ENGINE
Cylinder Head - RL
SPECIAL TOOLS
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NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue
to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
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9. Step on the accelerator pedal to open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor, and
measure the compression.
Compression Pressure
Maximum Variation
11. If the compression is not within specifications, perform a cylinder leak down test to determine the
problem area. Then check the following items, and remeasure the compression:
l Incorrect valve clearance
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12. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole.
13. Install the six spark plugs and the six ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
14. Select PCM reset (see IF THE MIL DID NOT STAY ON ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to
cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
1. Remove the six ignition coils and the six spark plugs (see IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the cylinder head covers (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT).
3. Rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise, and visually check all intake primary rocker arms (A) and intake
secondary rocker arms (B) moves independently:
l If the intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm move together, remove the
intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm as an assembly, and check that the
pistons in the rocker arms move smoothly. If any intake rocker arm needs replacing, replace the
primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
l If the intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm move independently, go to
step 4.
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Fig. 7: Identifying Intake Primary Rocker Arms And Intake Secondary Rocker Arms
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise, and visually check all exhaust primary rocker arms (A) and
exhaust secondary rocker arms (B) move independently:
l If the exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust primary rocker arm move together, remove the
exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust secondary rocker arm as an assembly, and check that
the pistons in the rocker arms move smoothly. If any exhaust rocker arm needs replacing, replace
the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
l If the exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust secondary rocker arm move independently, go to
step 5.
Fig. 8: Identifying Exhaust Primary Rocker Arms And Exhaust Secondary Rocker Arms
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 981 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2 , 142
psi).
7. Remove the sealing bolts from the front cylinder head, then install the VTEC/VCM air adapter (A) to the
inspection hole and install the VTEC air stop tool B, then connect the air pressure regulator (C).
8. Remove the sealing bolts from the rear cylinder head, then install the VTEC air stop tool A to the
inspection hole and install the VTEC/VCM air adapter (B), then connect the air pressure regulator (C).
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9. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
10. With the specified air pressure applied, rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise, and visually check all
intake primary rocker arms (A) and intake secondary rocker arms (B) move together:
l If the intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm move independently, remove
the intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm as an assembly, and check that
the pistons in the rocker arms move smoothly. If any intake rocker arm needs replacing, replace the
primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
l If the intake primary rocker arm and the intake secondary rocker arm move together, go to step 11.
Fig. 11: Identifying Intake Primary Rocker Arms And Intake Secondary Rocker Arms
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
11. With the specified air pressure applied, rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise. The exhaust primary
rocker arms (A) should move together with the exhaust secondary rocker arms (B):
l If the exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust secondary rocker arm move independently,
remove the exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust secondary rocker arm as an assembly, and
check that the pistons in the rocker arms move smoothly. If any exhaust rocker arm needs
replacing, replace the primary and secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
l If the exhaust primary rocker arm and the exhaust secondary rocker arm move together, go to step
12.
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12. Remove the air pressure regulator, the VTEC/VCM air adapter, the VTEC air stop tool A, and the VTEC
air stop tool B.
13. Tighten the sealing bolts to 22 N.m (2.2 kg.m, 16 lb.ft).
14. Install the cylinder head covers (see REAR).
15. Install the six spark plugs and the six ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
NOTE: Connect the HDS to the DLC (see step 2 on HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA
DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM) ) and monitor the ECT sensor 1. Adjust the valve
clearance only when the ECT sensor 1 temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the right upper fender trim (see UPPER FENDER TRIM REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the cylinder head covers (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT).
3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No.
1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
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Fig. 13: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 1 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Select the correct feeler gauge for the valve clearance you are going to check.
Valve Clearance
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5. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on the No. 1
cylinder, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
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6. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw until the drag on
the feeler gauge is correct.
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7. While holding the adjusting screw with the screw driver, tighten the locknut, then recheck the clearance.
Repeat the adjustment, if necessary.
Specified Torque
8. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 4 piston
TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Fig. 20: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 4 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
9. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder.
10. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 2 piston
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Fig. 21: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 2 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
11. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder.
12. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 5 piston
TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Fig. 22: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 5 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
13. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 5 cylinder.
14. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 3 piston
TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
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Fig. 23: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 3 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
15. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder.
16. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 6 piston
TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Fig. 24: Aligning Pointer On Front Upper Cover With No. 6 Piston TDC Mark On Front Camshaft
Pulley
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
17. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 6 cylinder.
18. Install the cylinder head covers (see REAR).
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REMOVAL
Fig. 25: Holding Pulley With Holder Handle And Holder Attachment
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
6. Remove the bolt with a heavy duty socket, 19 mm (C) and a breaker bar, then remove the crankshaft
pulley.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove any oil and clean the pulleys (A), the crankshaft (B), the bolt (C), and the washer (D). Lubricate
with new engine oil as shown.
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2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt. Do not use an impact wrench.
¡ Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and the holder attachment, 50 mm, offset (B). Tighten
the bolt to 64 N.m (6.5 kgf.m, 47 lbf.ft) with a torque wrench and a socket, 19 mm (C).
¡ Tighten the bolt an additional 60°.
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Fig. 27: Holding Pulley With Holder Handle And Holder Attachment
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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4. Inspect the timing belt for cracks and oil or coolant contamination. Replace the belt if it is cracked, or
contaminated with oil or coolant. Wipe off any oil or solvent that gets on the belt pulleys.
NOTE: If there is any leakage, repair them before replacing the timing belt.
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3. Check that the No. 1 piston top dead center (TDC) mark (A) on the front camshaft pulley and the pointer
(B) on the front upper cover are aligned.
NOTE: If the marks are not aligned, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, and
recheck the camshaft pulley mark.
4. Raise the vehicle on the lift, then remove the right front wheel.
5. Remove the splash shield (see SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT ).
6. Remove the drive belt (see DRIVE BELT REPLACEMENT ).
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7. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner (see DRIVE BELT AUTO-TENSIONER REPLACEMENT ).
8. Lift and support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
9. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the upper engine mount bracket (B).
10. Remove the front upper cover (A) and rear upper cover (B).
Fig. 33: Removing Front Upper Cover And Rear Upper Cover
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see step 5 on Crankshaft Pulley Removal and Installation ).
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13. Remove one of the battery clamp bolts from the battery tray, and grind the end of it as shown.
Fig. 35: Removing One Of Battery Clamp Bolts From Battery Tray
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
14. Thread the battery clamp bolt in as shown to hold the timing belt adjuster in its current position. Tighten
it by hand; do not use a wrench.
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17. Remove the idler pulley bolt (A) and the idler pulley (B), then remove the timing belt. Discard the idler
pulley bolt.
NOTE: The following procedure is for installation of a used timing belt. If you are
installing a new belt, refer to the timing belt replacement procedure (see TIMING
BELT REPLACEMENT).
1. Clean the timing belt pulleys, the timing belt guide plate, and the upper and lower covers.
2. Set the timing belt drive pulley to top dead center (TDC) by aligning the TDC mark (A) on the tooth of
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the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer (B) on the oil pump.
Fig. 40: Setting Timing Belt Drive Pulley To Top Dead Center
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
3. Set the camshaft pulleys to TDC by aligning the TDC marks (A) on the camshaft pulleys with the
pointers (B) on the back covers.
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4. loosely install the idler pulley with a new idler pulley bolt so the pulley can move, but does not come off.
5. If the auto-tensioner has extended and the timing belt cannot be installed, do the timing belt replacement
procedure (see TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT).
6. 6. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise sequence starting with the drive pulley. Take care not to
damage the timing belt during installation:
1. Drive pulley (A)
2. Idler pulley (B)
3. Front camshaft pulley (C)
4. Water pump pulley (D)
5. Rear camshaft pulley (E)
6. Adjusting pulley (F)
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Fig. 46: Installing Lower Half Of Side Engine Mount Bracket With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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12. Install the crankshaft pulley (see CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION).
13. Install the front upper cover (A) and the rear upper cover (B).
Fig. 49: Installing Front Upper Cover And Rear Upper Cover With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
14. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about six turns clockwise so the timing belt positions itself on the pulleys.
15. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).
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NOTE: If the marks are not aligned, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, and
recheck the camshaft pulley mark.
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17. 17. Loosely install the upper engine mount bracket (A), then install the ground cable (B).
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NOTE: The following procedure is for the installation of a new timing belt. If you are
installing a used belt, refer to the timing belt installation procedure (see TIMING
BELT INSTALLATION).
Fig. 54: Setting Timing Belt Drive Pulley To Top Dead Center
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Set the camshaft pulleys to TDC by aligning the TDC marks (A) on the camshaft pulleys with the
pointers (B) on the back covers.
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Fig. 55: Setting Camshaft Pulleys To TDC By Aligning TDC Marks On Camshaft Pulleys With
Pointers
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Fig. 56: Setting Camshaft Pulleys To TDC By Aligning TDC Marks On Camshaft Pulleys With
Pointers - Rear
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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8. Use a hydraulic press to slowly compress the auto-tensioner. Insert a 2.0 mm (5/64 in) pin through the
housing and the rod.
NOTE: The compression pressure should not exceed 9, 800 N (999.3 kgf, 2, 203.1
lbf).
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10. Thread the battery clamp bolt in as shown to hold the timing belt adjuster. Tighten it by hand, do not use
a wrench.
11. Loosely install the idler pulley with a new idler pulley bolt so the pulley can move but does not come off.
12. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise sequence starting with the drive pulley:
1. Drive pulley (A)
2. Idler pulley (B)
3. Front camshaft pulley (C)
4. Water pump pulley (D)
5. Rear camshaft pulley (E)
6. Adjusting pulley (F)
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15. Remove the battery clamp bolt from the back cover.
16. Install the lower half of the side engine mount bracket.
Fig. 64: Installing Lower Half Of Side Engine Mount Bracket With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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19. Install the crankshaft pulley (see CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION).
20. Install the front upper cover (A) and the rear upper cover (B).
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Fig. 67: Installing Front Upper Cover And Rear Upper Cover With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
21. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about six turns clockwise so the timing belt positions itself on the pulleys.
22. Turn the crankshaft pulley so the white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).
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NOTE: If the marks are not aligned, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, and
recheck the camshaft pulley mark.
24. Loosely install the upper engine mount bracket (A), then install the ground cable (B).
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Fig. 71: Installing Upper Engine Mount Bracket With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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3. Inspect the timing belt drive pulley and the key (B) for damage. If it is cracked or damaged, replace the
timing belt drive pulley and the key.
4. Install the new timing belt drive pulley and the key, then install the timing belt stopper.
5. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION).
6. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure (see CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN
LEARN ).
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Fig. 73: Removing Timing Belt Adjuster And Collar With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
5. Install the timing belt adjuster using new bolt in the reverse order of removal.
6. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION).
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REAR
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4. Remove the wire harness (E) from the rear upper cover.
5. Remove the rear cylinder head cover.
1. Check the spark plug seals for damage. If any seals are damaged, replace it.
2. Thoroughly clean the head cover gasket and the groove of the cylinder head cover.
3. Install the head cover gasket (A) in the groove of the cylinder head cover (B). Make sure the head cover
gasket is seated securely.
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4. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the front rocker shaft holder and the cylinder head.
5. Clean the head cover contacting surfaces with a shop towel.
6. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the rocker shaft
holder mating area (A). Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket.
7. Set the spark plug seals (A) on the spark plug tubes, and install the front cylinder head cover (B).
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NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the cylinder
head cover.
11. Install the harness holder (A) to the bracket, then install the harness holder mounting bolt (B) and the
harness clamp (C).
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REAR
1. Check the spark plug seals for damage. If any seals are damaged, replace it.
2. Thoroughly clean the head cover gasket and the groove of the cylinder head cover.
3. Install the head cover gasket (A) in the groove of the cylinder head cover (B). Make sure the head cover
gasket is seated securely.
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Fig. 83: Installing Head Cover Gasket In Groove Of Cylinder Head Cover
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the rear rocker shaft holder and the cylinder head.
5. Clean the head cover contacting surfaces with a shop towel.
6. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the rocker shaft
holder mating area (A). Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket.
7. Set the spark plug seals (A) on the spark plug tubes, and install the rear cylinder head cover (B).
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NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the cylinder
head cover.
11. Install the wire harness (A) to the rear upper cover.
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Fig. 87: Installing Wire Harness To Rear Upper Cover With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
12. Install the power steering hose clamp mounting bolt (B), the harness holder mounting bolts (C), the
breather hose (D), and the harness clamp (E).
13. Install the three ignition coils to the rear cylinder head (see IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
14. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION ).
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4. Remove the power steering pump (A) and the power steering hose clamp (B) with its hoses connected.
Fig. 88: Removing Power Steering Pump And Power Steering Hose Clamp
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
10. Remove the front WU-TWC (see WARM UP TWC REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and the rear WU-
TWC (see REAR ).
11. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A), then disconnect the fuel feed hose (B) (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL ).
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12. Remove the connector bracket (A) from the front cylinder head.
13. Remove the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (A) and the harness clamp bracket (B) from the
rear cylinder head.
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18. Remove the cylinder head covers (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT).
19. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time;
repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT
FRONT
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Fig. 97: Removing EGR Valve Stud Bolts With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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10. Install the front camshaft in the reverse order of removal. Always use a new O-ring (C). Apply new
engine oil to the journals and the cam lobes.
11. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt, then install the front camshaft
pulley (see step 14 14 ).
12. Install the rocker arm assembly (see CAMSHAFT, ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT
SEAL, AND PULLEY INSTALLATION).
13. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION).
14. Adjust the valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT).
15. Install the EGR valve stud bolts, then install the EGR valve (see EGR VALVE REPLACEMENT ).
16. Connect the upper radiator hose and the lower radiator hose.
17. Do the battery installation procedure (see RECONNECTION ).
18. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system (see COOLANT
CHECK ).
19. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure (see CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN
LEARN ).
REAR
Fig. 99: Removing EVAP Canister Purge Joint With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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7. Remove the rear rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY REMOVAL).
8. Remove the rear camshaft pulley (see step 17 17 ).
9. Remove the thrust cover (A), then remove the rear camshaft (B).
10. Install the rear camshaft in the reverse order of removal. Always use a new O-ring (C). Apply new engine
oil to the journals and cam lobes.
11. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt, then install the front camshaft
pulley (see step 1414 ).
12. Install the rocker arm assembly (see REAR).
13. Install the timing belt (see TIMING BELT INSTALLATION).
14. Adjust the valve clearance (see VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT).
15. Install the vacuum line and the EVAP canister purge joint.
16. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION ).
17. Connect the fuel feed hose, then install the quick-connect fitting cover (see FUEL LINE/QUICK-
CONNECT FITTING INSTALLATION ).
18. Inspect for fuel leaks. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) (do not operate the starter) so the fuel pump
runs for about 2 seconds and pressurizes the fuel line. Repeat this operation three times, then check for
fuel leakage at any point in the fuel line.
19. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure (see CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN
LEARN ).
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l If warpage is less than 0.05 mm (0.0020 in), cylinder head resurfacing is not required.
l If warpage is between 0.05 mm (0.0020 in) and 0.2 mm (0.008 in), resurface the cylinder head.
l Maximum resurface limit is 0.2 mm (0.008 in) based on a height of 121 mm (4.76 in).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT).
2. Loosen the locknuts and the adjusting screws (A).
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3. Remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts, the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts, and the rocker
arm assembly.
1. Loosen the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts and the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts in sequence two
turns at a time, to prevent damaging the valves or the rocker arm assembly.
2. When removing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts and the
rocker shaft holder mounting bolts. The bolts will keep the springs and the rocker arms on the shafts.
Fig. 103: Identifying Rocker Shaft Bridge Mounting Bolts Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
REAR
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (see TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT).
2. Loosen the locknuts and the adjusting screws (A).
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3. 6. Remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts, the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts, and the rocker
arm assembly.
1. Loosen the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts and the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts in
sequence two turns at a time, to prevent damaging the valves or the rocker arm assembly.
2. When removing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts
and the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts. The bolts will keep the rocker arms on the shafts.
Fig. 105: Identifying Rocker Shaft Bridge Mounting Bolts And Rocker Shaft Holder Mounting
Bolts Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
NOTE:
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REAR
NOTE: l Identify parts as they are removed so they can be reinstalled in their
original locations.
l Inspect the rocker shafts and the rocker arms (see ROCKER ARM AND
SHAFT INSPECTION).
l If reused, the rocker arms must be installed in their original locations.
l When removing or installing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the
mounting bolts. The bolts will keep the rocker arms, the rocker shaft
bridge, and the rocker shaft holder on the shaft.
l If the rocker shaft does not remove or does not install by hand, remove or
install the rocker shaft by heating the rocker shaft bridge.
l Bundle the rocker arms with rubber bands to keep them together as a set,
and remove the bands after the rocker arms have been installed.
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l Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply
new engine oil to all contact points the bearing surfaces, and the lost
motion assembly.
l When replacing the rocker arm assembly, remove the fastening hardware
from the new rocker arm assembly.
l Never remove any of the circlips that retain the lost motion assemblies in
the rocker shaft bridge. The circlips are not available separately, and are
factory installed in the rocker shaft bridge. To remove the lost motion
assemblies, first remove the rocker shafts and the rocker arms.
Fig. 107: Identifying Rocker Arm And Shaft Components Location - Rear
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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5. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round condition.
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6. Repeat for all rockers and both shafts. If the clearance is over the limit, replace the rocker shaft and all
over-tolerance rocker arms. If any intake rocker arm needs replacement, replace all rocker arms in that set
(primary and secondary).
1. Inspect the rocker arm piston (A). Slide them into the rocker arms. If they do not move smoothly, replace
the rocker arm set.
NOTE: l Apply new engine oil to the rocker arm pistons when reassembling.
l When removing the rocker arm pistons, carefully apply air pressure to the
oil passage of the rocker arm.
INTAKE
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EXHAUST
1. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT
DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY).
2. Install the rocker arm assembly (see CAMSHAFT, ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT
SEAL, AND PULLEY INSTALLATION).
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
1. Remove the cylinder head (see CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL).
2. Remove the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY REMOVAL).
3. Front: Put the rocker shafts bridge and the rocker shaft holder on the front cylinder head, then tighten the
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Specified Torque
4. Rear: Put the rocker shaft bridge and the rocker shaft holder on the rear cylinder head, then tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
Specified Torque
5. Seat the camshaft by pushing it toward the rear of the cylinder head.
6. Zero the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft. Push the camshaft back and forth and read the end
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play. If the end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust cover and recheck. If it is still beyond
the service limit, replace the cylinder head. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft.
7. Remove the camshaft thrust cover (A), then pull out the camshaft (B).
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8. Wipe the camshaft clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored,
or excessively worn.
9. Measure the diameter of each camshaft journal.
11. Clean the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head. Measure the inside diameter of each camshaft
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l If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has been replaced,
replace the cylinder head.
l If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has not been
replaced, go to step 12.
l If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and recheck the oil clearance. If
the oil clearance is still out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
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FRONT
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REAR
NOTE: Identify the valves and the valve springs as they are removed so that each item
can be reinstalled in its original position.
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3. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and
remove the valve cotters.
Fig. 124: Installing Valve Spring Compressor Attachment And Valve Spring Compressor
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Remove the valve spring compressor and the valve spring compressor attachment, then remove the spring
retainer, the valve spring, and the valve.
5. Install the valve guide seal remover (A).
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VALVE INSPECTION
1. Remove the valves (see FRONT).
2. Measure the valve in these areas.
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3. Select the proper replacement guides, and chill them in the freezer section of a refrigerator for at least an
hour.
4. Use a hot plate or oven to evenly heat the cylinder head to 300°F (150°C). Monitor the temperature with a
cooking thermometer. Do not get the head hotter than 300°F (150°C); excessive heat may loosen the
valve seats.
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5. Working from the camshaft side, use the driver and an air hammer to drive the guide about 2 mm (0.08
in) towards the combustion chamber. This will knock off some of the carbon and make removal easier.
Hold the air hammer directly in line with the valve guide to prevent damaging the driver. Wear safety
goggles or a face shield.
6. Turn the head over, and drive the guide out toward the camshaft side of the head.
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7. If a valve guide still will not move, drill it out with an 8 mm (5/16 in) drill bit, then try again.
NOTE: Drill guides only in extreme cases; you could damage the cylinder head if
the guide breaks.
8. Remove the new guide(s) from the freezer, one at a time, as you need them.
9. Apply a thin coat of new engine oil to the outside of the new valve guide. Install the guide from the
camshaft side of the head; use the valve guide driver, 5.35 x 9.7 mm to drive the guide to the specified
installed height (A) of the guide (B). If you have all 12 guides to do, you may have to reheat the head.
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10. Coat both the valve guide reamer, 5.5 mm and the valve guide with cutting oil.
11. Rotate the reamer clockwise the full length of the valve guide bore.
12. Continue to rotate the reamer clockwise while removing it from the bore.
13. Thoroughly wash the guide in detergent and water to remove any cutting residue.
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14. Check the clearance with a valve (see VALVE STEM-TO-GUIDE CLEARANCE INSPECTION).
Verify that a valve slides in the intake and exhaust valve guides without sticking.
15. Inspect the valve seating. If necessary renew the valve seat using a valve seat cutter (see VALVE SEAT
RECONDITIONING).
Fig. 134: Reaming Valve Seats In Cylinder Head Using Valve Seat Cutter
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
3. Carefully cut a 45° seat, removing only enough material to ensure a smooth and concentric seat.
4. Bevel the upper and lower edge at the angles shown in the illustration. Check the width of the seat and
adjust accordingly.
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5. Make one more very light pass with the 45° cutter to remove any possible burrs caused by the other
cutters.
6. After resurfacing the seat, inspect it for even valve seating. Apply Prussian Blue compound (A) to the
valve face. Insert the valve in its original location in the head, then lift it and snap it closed against the
seat several times.
7. The actual valve seating surface (B), as shown by the blue compound, should be centered on the seat:
l If it is too high (closer to the valve stem), you must make a second cut with the 67.5° cutter (intake
seat) or the 60° cutter (exhaust seat) to move it down, then one more cut with the 45° cutter to
restore seat width.
l If it is too low (closer to the valve edge), you must make a second cut with the 30° cutter to move it
up, then one more cut with the 45c cutter to restore seat width.
NOTE: The final cut should always be made with the 45° cutter.
8. Insert the intake and exhaust valves in the head, and measure the valve stem installed height (A).
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9. If the valve stem installed height is over the service limit, replace the valve and recheck. If it is still over
the service limit, replace the cylinder head; the valve seat in the head is too deep.
1. Coat the valve stems with new engine oil. Install the valves in the valve guides.
2. Check that the valves move up and down smoothly.
3. Install the spring seats on the cylinder head.
4. Install the new valve seals (A) using the 5.5 mm side of the stem seal driver (B).
NOTE: Exhaust valve seals (C) have a black spring (D) and intake valve seals (E)
have a white or silver spring (F). They are not interchangeable.
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5. Install the valve spring and the spring retainer. Place the end of the valve spring with the closely wound
coils toward the cylinder head.
6. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and
install the valve cotters.
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Fig. 139: Installing Valve Spring Compressor Attachment And Valve Spring Compressor
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor and the valve spring compressor attachment.
8. Lightly tap the end of each valve stem two or three times with a plastic mallet (A) to ensure proper
seating of the valve and valve cotters. Tap the valve stem only along its axis so you do not bend the stem.
NOTE: Be sure to raise the head off the work bench so the valve is not possibly
damaged.
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5. Insert the camshaft (B) into the cylinder head, then install the camshaft thrust cover (C). Always use a
new O-ring (D). Apply new engine oil to the journals and lobes.
6. Clean the excess oil off the camshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the dowel pin (E).
8. If the rocker arm assembly is disassembled, reassemble the rocker arm assembly (see ROCKER ARM
AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY).
9. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the rocker shaft holder and the cylinder head.
10. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the rocker shaft
holder mating surface of the cylinder head. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid
gasket.
NOTE: l Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the
broken line (A).
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11. Set the rocker arm assembly in place, and loosely install the bolts. Make sure that the rocker arms are
properly positioned on the valve stems.
NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the rocker
arm assembly.
12. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the
valves.
Specified Torque
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13. Install the injector base (A). Always use a new gasket (B).
14. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt (A). Install the back cover (B),
then install the camshaft pulley (C).
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15. Set the camshaft pulleys to top dead center (TDC) before bolting them onto the engine block (see step
66 ).
REAR
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5. Insert the camshaft (B) into the cylinder head, then install the camshaft thrust cover (C). Always use a
new O-ring (D). Apply new engine oil to the camshaft journals and lobes.
6. Clean the excess oil off the camshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the dowel pin (E).
8. If the rocker arm assembly is disassembled, reassemble the rocker arm assembly (see REAR).
9. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the rocker shaft holder and the cylinder head.
10. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the rocker shaft
holder mating surface of the cylinder head. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid
gasket.
NOTE: l Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the
broken line (A).
l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket.
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11. Set the rocker arm assembly in place, and loosely install the bolts. Make sure that the rocker arms are
properly positioned on the valve stems.
NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the rocker
arm assembly.
12. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the
valves.
Specified Torque
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13. Install the injector base (A). Always use a new gasket (B).
14. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt (A). Install the back cover (B),
then install the camshaft pulley (C).
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15. Set the camshaft pulleys to TDC before bolting them onto the engine block (see step 66 ).
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3. Install the dowel pins (C) and the new cylinder head gaskets (D).
4. Clean the timing belt pulleys, the timing belt guide plate, and the upper and lower covers.
5. Set the timing belt drive pulley to top dead center (TDC) by aligning the TDC mark (A) on the tooth of
the timing belt drive pulley with the pointer (B) on the oil pump.
Fig. 152: Aligning TDC Mark On Tooth Of Timing Belt Drive Pulley With Pointer On Oil Pump
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
6. Set the camshaft pulleys to TDC by aligning the TDC marks (A) on the camshaft pulleys with the
pointers (B) on the back covers.
FRONT
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REAR
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3. If either diameter is less than 10.6 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
4. Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
5. Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 29 N.m (3.0 kgf.m, 22 lbf.ft) using a beam-type torque
wrench. When using a preset click-type torque wrench, be sure to torque slowly and do not overtighten. If
a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.
6. After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90° per step) using the sequence shown in step
11. If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
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NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified
angle, and go back to step 8 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the
specified angle.
Fig. 159: Installing Connector Bracket To Front Cylinder Head With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
13. Install the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (A) and the harness clamp bracket (B) from the
rear cylinder head.
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2011-12 ENGINE Cylinder Head - RL
Fig. 160: Installing Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve Bracket And Harness Clamp Bracket
With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
14. Connect the fuel feed hose (A), then install the quick-connect fitting cover (B) (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING INSTALLATION ).
15. Install the front WU-TWC (see WARM UP TWC REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ) and the rear WU-
TWC (see REAR ).
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Cylinder Head - RL
16. Connect the following engine wire harness connectors, and install the wire harness clamps to the cylinder
head:
l Six injector connectors
17. Install the six ignition coils (see IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUG
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
18. Install the intake manifold (see INSTALLATION ).
19. Install the alternator (see INSTALLATION ).
20. Install the power steering pump (A) and the power steering hose bracket (B).
Fig. 162: Installing Power Steering Pump And Power Steering Hose Bracket With Torque
Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Cylinder Head - RL
7. Clean the excess oil off the camshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
8. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft pulley mounting bolt. Install the back cover, then
install the camshaft pulley:
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2011-12 ENGINE Cylinder Head - RL
NOTE: When installing the sealing bolts (A), always use the new washers (B).
FRONT
REAR
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Cylinder Head - RL
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
2011-12 ENGINE
Engine Assembly - RL
SPECIAL TOOLS
ENGINE REMOVAL
Special Tools Required
1. Disconnect the support struts from both sides of the pivot ball (bolted to the hood) (A). Secure the hood in
a vertical position. Remove the right side pivot ball and install it into the lower threaded hole, then
reattach the support strut.
NOTE: Do not attempt to close the hood with the support strut in the vertical
position, as it will damage the support strut and hood.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
8. Remove the two upper bolts (A), and loosen the two lower bolts (B), then remove the battery base (C).
9. Disconnect the positive starter cable (A), and remove the harness clamps (B).
10. Remove the battery cable terminal (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 8: Disconnecting Engine Wire Harness Connectors On Left Side Of Engine Compartment
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
14. Remove the connector clamp (A) and the transfer breather hose (B), then remove the strut brace (C).
15. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover (A), then disconnect the fuel feed hose (B) (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING REMOVAL ).
16. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (A) and the EVAP canister hose (B).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 11: Disconnecting Brake Booster Vacuum Hose And EVAP Canister Hose
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Fig. 12: Disconnecting Pump Outlet Hose And Pump Inlet Hose From Power Steering Pump
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 13: Removing Power Steering Heat Shield From Front Subframe
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
22. Center the steering wheel spokes, and install a commercially available steering wheel holder tool (see step
3 on STEERING SHAFT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
23. Remove the steering joint cover (A).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
24. Make a reference mark (B) across the steering joint (C) and the steering gearbox pinion shaft (D).
Remove the steering joint bolt (E), and disconnect the steering joint from the steering gearbox pinion
shaft.
25. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap.
26. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
27. Remove the front wheels.
28. Remove the splash shield (see SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT ).
29. Loosen the drain plug in the radiator, and drain the engine coolant (see COOLANT REPLACEMENT ).
30. Drain the ATF (see ATF REPLACEMENT ).
31. Drain the engine oil (see ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT ).
32. Disconnect the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar (see STABILIZER LINK
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
33. Remove the damper fork (see DAMPER/SPRING REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
34. Separate the tie-rod end ball joints from the knuckles (see step 15 on STEERING GEARBOX
REMOVAL ).
35. Separate the knuckles from the lower arms (see LOWER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
36. Remove the front driveshafts (see DRIVESHAFT INSPECTION ). Coat all precision-finished surfaces
with new engine oil. Tie plastic bags over the driveshaft ends.
37. Remove the exhaust pipe assembly (see EXHAUST PIPE AND MUFFLER REPLACEMENT ).
38. Remove the propeller shaft (see PROPELLER SHAFT REMOVAL ).
39. Remove the transfer assembly (see TRANSFER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL ).
40. Disconnect the power steering hose, then plug the line and the hose.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
42. Disconnect the ECPS valve motor connector from the steering gearbox.
Fig. 17: Disconnecting ECPS Valve Motor Connector From Steering Gearbox
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
50. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses. Do not bend the A/C hoses
excessively.
51. Remove the connector bracket (A) from the front cylinder head.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
52. Remove the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (A) and the harness bracket (B) from the rear
cylinder head.
Fig. 25: Removing Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve Bracket And Harness Bracket From Rear
Cylinder Head
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
53. Install the engine hanger balance bar (VSB02C000019). Attach the front arm (A) to the front cylinder
head with a 10 mm (0.39 in) spacer (B) and a 10 x 1.25 mm bolt (C). Remove the rear arm from the
engine hanger balance bar, then install the 2008 V6 attachment arm (SIL02C000033). Attach the 2008 V6
attachment arm to the rear cylinder head with a 10 mm (0.39 in) spacer (D) and an 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (E).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
54. Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T1256) onto the vehicle as shown, and attach the hook to the
slotted hole in the engine hanger balance bar. Tighten the wing nut (F) by hand, and lift and support the
engine/transmission.
55. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A), then remove the front engine mounting mount stop (B) and the front
engine mount bolt (C).
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Fig. 27: Removing Front Engine Mounting Mount Stop And Front Engine Mount Bolt
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
56. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A), then remove the rear engine mounting mount stop (B) and the rear
engine mount bolt (C).
Fig. 28: Removing Rear Engine Mounting Mount Stop And Rear Engine Mount Bolt
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 29: Attaching Subframe Adapter (VSB02C000016) To Front Subframe By Looping Belt
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
60. Raise the transmission jack and line up the slots in the subframe adapter arms with the bolt holes on the
jack base, then securely attach them with four bolts.
61. Remove the six mounting bolts (A) securing the subframe stiffeners (B), the four subframe mounting
bolts (C), and the stiffeners, then lower the front subframe (D).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
62. Lower the vehicle and attach a chain hoist (A) to the engine hanger (B) and transmission hanger (C). Lift
up the engine/transmission until it is securely supported by the chain hoist, and remove the engine support
hanger and the engine balance bar, and the engine hanger adapter set.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
64. Check that the engine/transmission is completely free of the vacuum hoses, the fuel hoses, the coolant
hoses, and the electrical wiring.
65. Slowly lower the engine/transmission about 150 mm (5.91 in). Check once again that all the hoses and
the electrical wiring are disconnected and free from the engine/transmission, then lower it all the way and
support it.
66. Disconnect the chain hoist from the engine/transmission.
67. Raise the vehicle, and remove the engine/transmission from under the vehicle.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Install the accessory brackets and tighten their bolts to the specified torque.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
2. Position the engine/transmission under the vehicle. Be sure that they are properly aligned. Carefully lower
the vehicle until the engine/transmission are properly positioned in the engine compartment. Make sure
the vehicle is not resting on any part of the engine/transmission. Support the engine/transmission with a
chain hoist (A) and carefully raise the engine/transmission into place.
NOTE: Reinstall the mounting bolts/support nuts in the sequence given in the
following steps. Failure to follow this sequence may cause excessive
noise and vibration, and reduce engine mount life.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
3. Install two new bolts securing the upper engine mount bracket. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
Fig. 35: Installing Two New Bolts Securing Upper Engine Mount Bracket With Torque
Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
4. Install the engine hanger balance bar (VSB02C000019). Attach the front arm (A) to the front cylinder
head with a 10 mm (0.39 in) spacer (B) and a 10 x 1.25 mm bolt (C). Remove the rear arm from the
engine hanger balance bar, then install the 2008 V6 attachment arm (SIL02C000033) to the rear cylinder
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
head with a 10 mm (0.39 in) spacer (D) and an 8 x 1.25 mm bolt (E).
Fig. 36: Attaching Front Arm To Front Cylinder Head With Spacer
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
5. Install the engine support hanger (AAR-T1256) onto the vehicle as shown, and attach the hook to the
slotted hole in the engine hanger balance bar. Tighten the wing nut (F) by hand, and lift and support the
engine/transmission.
6. Remove the chain hoist, then raise the vehicle on the lift.
7. Using the subframe adapter (VSB02C000016) and a transmission jack, raise the front subframe up to the
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
body.
8. Loosely install the new front subframe mounting bolts (four) (A), the mounting bolts (four) (B), the new
mounting bolts (two) (C) and the stiffeners (D).
9. Align the front subframe with the subframe alignment pin (see SUBFRAME REPLACEMENT ).
10. Remove the transmission jack and front subframe adapter.
11. Tighten the transmission lower mount mounting bolts.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 38: Identifying Transmission Lower Mount Mounting Bolts With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Fig. 39: Installing Connector Bracket To Front Cylinder Head With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
15. Install the harness clamp (A) and the engine mount control solenoid valve bracket (B) to the rear cylinder
head.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 40: Installing Harness Clamp And Engine Mount Control Solenoid Valve Bracket To Rear
Cylinder Head With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
16. Install the shift cable and tighten the bolt (A) securing the shift cable bracket.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
20. Tighten the front engine mount bolt (B), then install the front engine mount stop (C).
21. Loosen the side engine mount bracket mounting bolts (A) for the upper engine mount bracket, then
retighten them to the specified torque.
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Fig. 43: Installing Front Engine Mount Stop With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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30. Connect the ECPS valve motor connector to the steering gearbox.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 52: Aligning Reference Mark On Steering Joint And Steering Gearbox Pinion Shaft With
Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Fig. 53: Installing Power Steering Heat Shield With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
47. Connect the pump outlet hose (A) with a new O-ring (B) and the pump inlet hose (C) to the power
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
steering pump.
Fig. 54: Connecting Pump Outlet Hose With New O-Ring And Pump Inlet Hose To Power Steering
Pump With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 55: Installing Brake Booster Vacuum Hose And EVAP Canister Hose
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
53. Connect the fuel feed hose (A), then install the quick-connect fitting cover (B) (see FUEL
LINE/QUICK-CONNECT FITTING INSTALLATION ).
54. Install the strut brace (A), then install the connector (B) and the transfer breather hose (C).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 57: Installing Connector And Transfer Breather Hose With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
55. Connect the engine wire harness connectors (A), then install the harness clamp (B).
56. Install the battery cable terminal(A), and connect the starter connector (B).
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57. Install the under-hood fuse/relay box (C) and the harness clamp (D).
58. Connect the positive starter cable (A), and install the harness clamp (B).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
63. Move the shift lever to each gear, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission
range switch.
64. Inspect for fuel leaks. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) (do not operate the starter) so the fuel pump
runs for about 2 seconds and pressurizes the fuel line. Repeat this operation two or three times, then check
for fuel leaks at any point in the fuel line.
65. Refill the engine with engine oil (see ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT ).
66. Refill the transmission with ATF (see ATF REPLACEMENT ).
67. Refill the reservoir with power steering fluid (see FLUID CHECK/REPLACEMENT ).
68. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the cooling system with the heater valve open
(see COOLANT CHECK ).
69. Do the power steering system bleeding procedure (see FLUID CHECK/REPLACEMENT ).
70. Check for fluid leaks.
71. Do the PCM reset procedure.
72. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure (see CKP PATTERN CLEAR/CKP PATTERN
LEARN ).
73. Inspect the idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ).
74. Inspect the ignition timing (see IGNITION TIMING INSPECTION ).
75. Install these items:
l Cowl cover (see UPPER GRILLE COVER REPLACEMENT )
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1. Lift and support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the oil pan.
2. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the upper half of the side engine mount bracket (B).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
INSTALLATION
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2011 Acura RL
2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
2. Install the upper half of the side engine mount bracket (A), and tighten the mounting bolts (B).
Fig. 67: Installing Upper Half Of Side Engine Mount Bracket With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
1. Remove the radiator fan shroud assembly (see FAN, FAN MOTOR, AND SHROUD REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the front engine mount stop (A), and disconnect the vacuum hose (B).
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
6. Remove the front engine mount insulator (B), then disconnect the vacuum hose (C).
INSTALLATION
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
1. Connect the vacuum hose (A), and install the engine mount insulator (B) to the front engine mount (C).
Fig. 70: Installing Engine Mount Insulator To Front Engine Mount With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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Fig. 71: Installing Front Engine Mount Stop With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A), and remove the engine mount insulator (B) from the engine mount.
INSTALLATION
1. Connect the vacuum hose (A), and install the engine mount insulator (B) to the engine mount.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
2. Install the rear engine mount assembly (A) to the front subframe.
Fig. 76: Installing Rear Engine Mount Assembly To Front Subframe With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 77: Installing Rear Engine Mount Bolt With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
5. Install the rear engine mount stop (B), and connect the vacuum hose (C).
6. Install the front strut brace (see FRAME BRACE REPLACEMENT ).
1. Remove the lower transmission mount mounting bolts (A) from the subframe side.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Assembly - RL
Fig. 78: Removing Lower Transmission Mount Mounting Bolts From Subframe Side
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
2. Lift and support the engine/transmission with a transmission jack and a wood block.
3. Remove the lower transmission mount mounting bolts (B), then remove the lower transmission mount
(B).
INSTALLATION
1. Install the lower transmission mount (A), tighten the lower transmission mount mounting bolts (B).
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2011-12 ENGINE
Engine Block - RL
SPECIAL TOOLS
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Block - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Block - RL
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Block - RL
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod and recheck. If it
is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON
REMOVAL ).
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator by prying, and zero the dial against the end of the
crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator by prying; the dial reading should
not exceed the service limit.
6. If the crankshaft end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Block - RL
beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
1. Remove the main bearing caps and the bearing halves (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON
REMOVAL ).
2. Clean each main journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
NOTE: If the engine is still in the vehicle when you bolt the main cap down to
check the clearance, the weight of the crankshaft and the drive plate will
flatten the plastigage further than just the torque on the cap bolt and give
you an incorrect reading. For an accurate reading, support the crank with
a jack under the counterweights, and check only one bearing at a time.
4. Reinstall the bearings and the main bearing caps, then torque the bearing cap bolts to 74 N.m (7.5 kgf.m,
54 lbf.ft), and the bearing cap side bolts to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft) in the proper sequence (see step
22 ).
NOTE: l Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
l Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the main bearing caps and the bearing halves, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
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6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of
the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not
file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color
listed above or below that one), and check the clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained
by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see
CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the engine block as a code for the size of each of the four main
journal bores.
Use them, and the numbers or bars stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size), to choose the
correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them
with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
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1. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON
REMOVAL ).
2. Clean the connecting rod journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across the connecting rod journal.
4. Reinstall the bearing half and the connecting rod cap, then torque the connecting rod bolts.
NOTE: l Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges.
l Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
Tightening Torque:
5. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new,
complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the
bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color
listed above or below that one), and check the clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained
by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see
CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
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Each connecting rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.00094 in), in 0.006 mm
(0.00024 in) increments) depending on the size of its big end bore.
It is then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or Nil) indicating the range. You may find any
combination of 1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or Nil in any engine.
Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code for the size of the big end. Use
them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank (codes for rod journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If
the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush
or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
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(Letters or Bars)
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7. Remove the CKP sensor cover (A) and the bolt (B), then disconnect the CKP sensor connector (C).
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8. Remove the torque converter case cover (A) and the four bolts (B) securing the transmission.
Fig. 17: Removing Torque Converter Case Cover And Four Bolts
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
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2011-12 ENGINE Engine Block - RL
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Fig. 20: Removing Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid/Oil Filter Assembly
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
9. Remove the oil strainer (A), the baffle plate (B), and the oil pump (C).
Fig. 21: Removing Oil Strainer, Baffle Plate And Oil Pump
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
10. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the connecting rod journal at bottom dead center (BDC) for
each cylinder. Remove the piston/connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod. Take care
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not to damage the oil jets, the connecting rod journal, or the cylinder with the connecting rod.
11. Remove the bearing from the rod cap. Keep all caps/bearings in order.
12. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
13. After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the connecting rod cap on the connecting rod.
14. To avoid mix-up during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
15. Loosen the bearing cap bolts and the bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the
sequence until all bolts are loosened.
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Fig. 23: Identifying Bearing Cap Bolts And Bearing Cap Side Bolts
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
16. Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and the bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove the main bearing caps
(C).
Fig. 24: Removing Bearing Cap Bolts And Bearing Cap Side Bolts
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
17. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the CKP
pulse plate (B).
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18. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT ).
19. Reinstall the main bearing caps and the bearings on the engine block in the proper order.
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION
Out-of-Round and Taper
1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT ).
3. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
4. Check the keyway slot and the threaded holes for damage.
5. Measure the out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference
between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Out-of-Round
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6. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on
each journal must not be more than the service limit.
Journal Taper
Straightness
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Piston Diameter
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4. Measure the wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown. If
measurements in any cylinder are beyond the standard limit, replace the engine block.
Bore Taper
Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
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5. Check the top of the engine block for warpage. Measure along the edges and across the center as shown.
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6. Calculate the difference between cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the clearance is near
or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and cylinder bore for excessive wear.
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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A) and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps
are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B).
Fig. 32: Identifying Piston Pin Snap Rings And Piston Pin Bores
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
3. Remove snap rings (A) from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove
the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
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4. Separately heat each piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston
pin.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Inspect the piston, the piston pin, and the connecting rod when they are at
room temperature.
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3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the piston pin hole diameter on the piston.
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REASSEMBLY
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2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine
oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and the connecting rod (B) with the embossed marks (C) on the same side.
Install the piston pin (D).
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3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner with a
blade to fit the piston grooves. File down the blade, if necessary. The top ring and second ring grooves are
1.2 mm (0.047 in) wide, and the oil ring groove is 2.8 mm (0.110 in) wide. Do not use a wire brush to
clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tool.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new
rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.59-0.79 in) from the bottom.
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l If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits (see step 4 ).
Top Ring:
Second Ring:
Oil Ring:
6. Install the rings as shown. The top ring (A) has a 1E mark and the second ring (B) has a 2E mark. The
manufacturing marks (C) must be facing upward.
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8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
9. Position the ring end gaps as shown:
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1. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING
REPLACEMENT ).
2. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage (see CONNECTING ROD BEARING
REPLACEMENT ).
3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and the connecting rods.
4. Apply new engine oil to the inside of the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings.
5. Install the CKP pulse plate to the crankshaft (see CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT ).
6. Lower the crankshaft (A) into the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the CKP
pulse plate (B).
7. Apply new engine oil to the side with the thrust washer groove. Install the thrust washers (A) in the No. 3
journal.
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8. Install the main bearings (A) and the main bearing caps (B) with the arrow (C) facing the timing belt side
of the engine block.
9. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges, then loosely install the bearing cap bolts (D) and the
bearing cap side bolts (E).
10. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder you are installing the piston in.
11. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore.
12. Attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly, and check that the bearing is securely
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in place.
13. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the timing belt side of the engine
block.
Fig. 50: Positioning Piston/Connecting Rod Assembly With Arrow Facing Timing Belt Side Of
Engine Block
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
14. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a
hammer (A). Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding
before entering the cylinder bore.
15. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before
pushing the piston into place.
16. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
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Difference in Diameter
18. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
19. Install the connecting rod bearing (A), then line up the mark (B) on the connecting rod (C) and the cap
(D).
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20. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts (B) to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14
lbf.ft).
21. Tighten the connecting rod bolt an additional 90 °.
NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified
angle, and go back to step 16 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to
the specified angle.
22. Tighten the main bearing cap bolts, then tighten the main bearing cap side bolts to the specified torque in
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the sequence as shown. Repeat the torque sequence again to ensure the bolts are properly torqued.
Fig. 55: Identifying Main Bearing Cap Bolts With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
23. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the engine block end cover mating surfaces, the bolts, and the
bolt holes.
24. Clean and dry the engine block end cover mating surfaces and the crankshaft oil seal housing.
25. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
26. Using the driver handle, 15 x 135L and the oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new
crankshaft oil seal (A) until the oil seal driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover.
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27. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the engine block
mating surface of the engine block end cover and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the
component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: l Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the
broken line (A).
l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
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28. Install the dowel pins (A), a new O-ring (B), and the engine block end cover (C) on the engine block.
NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the engine
block end cover.
Fig. 59: Installing Dowel Pins, New O-Ring And Engine Block End
Cover On Engine Block With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
29. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
30. Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump (see step 3 on INSTALLATION ).
31. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
32. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces.
33. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the engine block
mating surface of the oil pump and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component
within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: l Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the
broken line (A).
l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 087178-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
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34. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal, and to the new O-ring (A).
Fig. 61: Identifying Crankshaft Oil Seal And New O-Ring With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
35. Install the dowel pins (B), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft, and install the oil pump (C).
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NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the engine
block end cover and the oil pump.
36. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
37. Install the baffle plate (D), then install the oil strainer (E) with the new O-ring (F).
38. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly (A), with a new rocker arm oil control
solenoid filter (B).
Fig. 62: Installing Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid/Oil Filter Assembly, Solenoid Filter With
Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
39. Install the oil pan (see CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT ).
40. Install the timing belt drive pulley to the crankshaft (see TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY
REPLACEMENT ).
41. Install the cylinder heads (see CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION ).
42. Install the drive plate (see DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
43. Install the transmission (see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
44. Install the engine/transmission (see ENGINE INSTALLATION ).
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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL ).
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A) from the crankshaft.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate.
Fig. 63: Removing CKP Pulse Plate From Crankshaft With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
NOTE: When installing the crankshaft, refer to the CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE .
NOTE: l Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the
broken line (A).
l If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be
installed within 4 minutes.
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l If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove
the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
NOTE: l Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
l Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
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6. Tighten the four bolts (A) securing the transmission, then install the torque converter case cover (B).
Fig. 66: Installing Torque Converter Case Cover With Torque Specifications
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
7. Connect the CKP sensor connector (A), then install the CKP sensor cover (B) and the bolt (C).
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1. Remove the timing belt drive pulley (see TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT ).
2. Remove the pulley end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
5. Using the oil seal driver, 64 mm drive in the new crankshaft oil seal (A) until the driver bottoms against
the oil pump.
6. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the timing belt drive pulley and the timing belt (see TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY
REPLACEMENT ).
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1. Remove the transmission (see TRANSMISSION REMOVAL ) and the drive plate (see DRIVE
PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
2. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
5. Using the driver handle, 15 x 135L and the driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil
seal (A) until the driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover. Align the hole in the driver
attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
6. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the drive plate (see DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), and the transmission
(see TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION ).
NOTE: When installing the sealing bolt (A), always use new washers (B).
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