drape drape 2 Hisako Sato wa3 $-253 2013*& 2015 - 0289 Beha 7053 Reg Hisako Sato Laurence King PublishingPbanedn 2012 by Leone king Pubiing Lt 361-373 City Road ‘Unt ngdom Te #4420781 e200 Fx #4420704 6910 ‘e-mal nquesdlzuercking com Reprinted 013 Drape Drape by Hao sito Copytent © eso Sato 2010 ‘Orignal Japanese eon published by EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION BUNKA, ‘GAKUIN, BUNK PLBLSHING BUREAL “Ths Engloh etn publehed by arangement wth EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION BUNK GARUEN, BUNA PUBLISHING BLREAL, Toyo, eof Tat Mon ‘Agen ne Toye Hsako Sato has assets or ght under the Copyright Designs, en let Ac 968, to be ented a the Author of hs Work Al hts reserved. Nop of hs pslestion may be eprociced or atid in ny frm orby any means, leconc cemechinc nding photocopy, carn or any information stage en eel stm, without prior permion in wtng om the publi A catalogue ecard fo ths book alle on the Bt in Ison: 970-1.78067-004. “ypface: ebon and Stax Patan Chin Hisako Sato Hisako Sato graduated from the Fashion Design program at Bunka Fashion College, Japan, in 1986, leaving to work fora major apparel ‘manufacturer. n 1990, she was appointed head of garment design at "Muji before becoming an independent designer in 1993. In 1994, Hisako Sato made her debut at Tokyo Collection now Japan Fashion ‘Week withthe Beige shop brand, she i currently producing new callections as a designer forthe Raws brand: wwu.ramtus.compage 4 page 6 pages 4, 5, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 pages 22, 23, 24 pages 28, 29, 30, 32 pages 33, 34, 80 pages 33, 38 pages 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 pages 50, 51, 52 pages 56, 57, 58 pages 56, 57, 62, 64 pages 65, 66 pages 68, 69, 70 pages 74, 75, 76 pages 80, 82 pages 81, 86 page 88 C no.1 no.2 no.4 no.5 no.6 no.7 no.8 no.9 no.10 no.11 no.12 no.13 no.14 ontents introduction how to make the garments two-piece gather drape cape one-piece side drape top three-piece drape vest with oversized pockets ‘one-piece scoop neck asymmetrical top one-piece petal miniskirt three-piece deep cowl neck dress two-piece open batwing dress two-piece gather drape blouse three-piece shirred-leg tuck drape pants two-piece knee-length tuck drape pants four-piece tuck drape belted blouse one-piece open-sleeved cowl neck dress two-piece twist drape miniskirt four-piece fitted skirt with side gather drape bibliography and creditsThe initial inspiration for my draped designs came from an exhibition called Goddess that | visited a few years ago at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and which gave me the idea of producing draped designs from a single piece of fabric. | was intrigued by the question of how to shape fabrics of different length, grain, and hang to the contours of the body. The draped designs featured in this book are based on simple ideas, which are reflected in the use of just one, two, or three pattern pieces. Thope that making the garments in Drape Drape 2 will show you just how much fun you can have working with fabric! 10.1 two-piece gather drape cape see page 18 for instructionsema LoyAbout sizes and the full-scale patterns included with this book You will find full-scale patterns forall of the pieces presented in Drape Drape 2 at the back of this book Size chart (em) However, while some of the designs are for one-size _ garments, others can be made in either two sizes (S/M. _| Ses = ma =a and L/XL), or four sizes (S, M, L, and XL). Please consult Height 153158163168 the size chart when choosing the pattem size, aody | Bust 73 aaa measurements | Waist 586270 The full-scale patterns all include seam allowances. Take 4 care when copying the patterns, because the shape of Hips a ee the seam allowances and position of the notches are very a important when folding tucks and creating other effects The techniques that we will be using to create the ‘garments featured in Drape Drape 2 are: slack (photograph 1), tuck (photograph 2), gather (photograph 3), twist (photograph 4), and finally drape drape (photograph 5), which brings al of these techniques together. The key to each of them Is the beauty of movement inherent in the fabric, Various materials are used in this book: cotton, wool, tricot, and sik. The best way to achieve the garments in the way they are shown in Drape Drape 2 is to use an identical material, but for many of them you may not be able to get hold of exactly the same fabric. The flow and volume of the drape will ‘change somewhat with the material; ths is something for you to have fun with as you make the garments!Materials Knitted fabrics made from standard cotton and wool are not difficult to handle. However, knitted fabrics such as = (wrong ie/overse) © back rong sderoverse) wal 7no.12 one-piece open-sleeved cowl neck dress continues 3 Finish the sits Fight shoulder Front overs) iat sleeve (rovese) 4 Sew the shoulders and sieeve cap lines (wrong aderevere Font leeve wrong carvers) ay, “opatitch 2-3. om overthe alt stchos5 Sew the let side 7 Finish the waist som fold tof ¢ 5 fold Band ight sierupsce) ci ‘Ovriap the ends ofthe lato ake wrong stdeteyere) 2P2 By 9 ac 6 attach the spangled tape to the the cuffs alt measurement T2om Sequrned ast tape. 5 3 g : E z 2 g § i i ino.13 two-piece twist drape miniskirt “# Required pattern pieces (side D) 1 Front and back skits (align the right an lef) 2 Front and back skit ining 3 aston ¢ Sewing tstucton Viasbend vee 1 Fete tes nh wast of he eee pmtate, Letty TiC Ltt Soest nesum Ge gue one 4 2 Sow al th conte back ofthe Set fab athe sit ing Rtelirie Srree tact Front andback ts notches in the seam allowance at Pa eoSnPe ra ‘the end of the opening (see figure 49405 donpa 3 Sew together the hems of the skt fabri and sket lining, 4 Add gathers to the skirt waist, fabric, matching the waist ‘measurements ofthe lining. Align the skit fabric and skit lining Fight side out and stitch along the center back from the end of the opening to the waist seam allowance to secure in place. 5 Overlay the waist seam allowance with elaste tape and stitch in place. Sitch the elastic tape, Stretching it uniformly to mateh ‘the waist measurement of the sir. 65 Attach an invisible zipper to the center back (see figure 6 on .85). i eptton \ Sentoge RN. Ertofoperng eth ining coe i, Bo * The front and back outer skirts are made in two sizes, S/M and URL. The skit linings are made In four sizes, $M, L, and XL, Front and back skirt fining “© Widths and lengths used 405; ‘Materia: stretch material, matte ee jersey (plain ket) al] Be ‘entarn, cit on fld = W4m50cmxL 1 m10em Lining = W 11m 206m x140 em Fusible interfacing = a reasonably ns shot nah 22 Pomme an Eastc tape (forthe waistband) 3 =W7 em x 66 em (5)/70.em (WM) /74 em (L) 78 em XL) “4 x56-cm invisible zipper End of opening Front}a (Cutting layoutno.13 two-piece twist drape miniskirt continues ‘1 Fold the waist tucks in the skir fabric, and gather-stitch 2 Sew the center back6 Attach the invisible zipper [Stack the ning = (ont sidor noe ‘pside) Endot opening ‘Center back oper“ sld/reverea | tom stop (© Undo the ange sttches (© Fold in the top end of the Zipper tape tothe seam OPuite. alowance sider up End of opening {@ Nove the bottom stop 10 the end of ‘the opening an than squeeze with ‘2 pat of pers to secureitin place © Cut of any unwanted zipper ‘and site the botom end‘© Sewing instructions + Attach fusible interfacing tothe wrong side (reverse) ofthe facing, 2 Finish the top edge ofthe fll with a threefold edge-sttched seam and gathersttch see igure 1) 23 Gatherstitch the sides to create the gathers (see figure 2) 4 Sew the sides together and attach an invisible zipper tothe left side (see p. 85) 5 Edge-sltch (lap-sear) the waist with the facing see figure 4), 6 Gather the fil and stitch in place (see figure 5). 7 Fold up the hem and blindsttc. © Widths and lengths used Materia: satin =W1m35cmxL.1m20en Fusible interfacing =W200mxL25 em 11 22-em invisible 2pper Beck eaten 18] in 250m Cutting layout “# Required: 1 Back 2 Front (align the right and left) 3 Back facing 4 Front facing (align the left and right sides) wen Front (it) i 5 Back facing pattern pieces (side D) Back fain 4-2 7 4 Genter back, cut on fold ‘enter back auton Frill eines | 40 atent] 2 athe? end no.14 four-piece fitted skirt with side gather drape Front (et dz ores Jo Gusedo) ops yer oe1Gathor-stitch the fil 2 Gather the sides (@ Add the gathers, stitching over the 5mm sem ‘gathor-sitching to secur in place tipetod / Front (ong sefovess) * Rapes! or heron sie 4 Edge-stitch the waist with the facing 5 Gather the fil ‘Add the gathers, sitching over the gather-stitching, to secure in place ee eee es 5 mem inside fom Move the tscng Flt the fnahng Ine utaf the way, ‘Sew the ight side ==" Front facing » sirovere) Sp were } (@ Fela ane stich enue ‘he-seam allowance ater end Front (nt sarupiae) © siteh ony the facingBibliography The Essential Basics of Sewing Beautifull by Keiko Mizuno (BUNKA PUBLISHING BUREAU) ‘Sewing Lesson Note ABC by Naoko Domeki (BUNKA PUBLISHING BUREAU) Fashion Dictionary (BUNKA PUBLISHING BUREAU) Credits (Original Japanese edition Publisher: Sunao Onuma Editor: Nobuko Hirayama (BUNKA PUBLISHING BUREAU) Design and layout: Tomoko Nawata, UEspace Photography: Yasutomo Ebisu, Takeshi Fujimoto (BUNKA PUBLISHING BUREAU, pp. 32-89) Haie and make-up: Hiromi Chinone (Cirque) ‘Model Justine, Kotlyna Pattern grading: Kazuhiro Ueno Instructions: Keiko Mizuno (pp. 33-39), Naoko Domeki (pp. 40-87) ‘Tracing: Tomoko Fukushima Proofreading: Masako Mukai English edition ‘Translated from the Japanese by Andy Walker “echnical consultants: Kevin Almond, Bo Breda, Chika ito Design and typesetting: Mark Holt Commissioning editor: Helen Rochester (Laurence King Publishing) Editor: Sarah Batten (Laurence King Publishing)- , i i a