Project Report On FASHION THEORY AL Dezyne E’cole College ‘Submitted To Dezyne Ecole College Towards The Partial Fulfillment of 2 year Fashion Design By- tha ChandelaAcknowledgement I am Nistha Chandela, student of Fashion designing department of Dezyne E’cole College would like to express my gratitude to each and every person who has contributed in stimulating suggestions and encouragement which really helped me to coordinate my prajeet | also thank Dezyne E’cole College who provided insight and expertise that greatly assisted the project. Also, A special thanks to m teachers, parents and colleagues who have supported me at every step. Net to forget, the almighty who blessed me with good health because of which I worked more efficiently and better.Grade Sheet ‘Today AReader, Tomorrow Ateader 106/10 Civil Line Ajmer Tel-01 79 wonnuezyneeeole.comy This project report of Ms. Nistha Chandela student of 2™ year Fashion Design, degree has been checked and has been graded as ‘Thanking You ipal (Seal & Signature)GZ = 4H 2A Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. It is a fabrication process i.e. intermeshing series of loops of one or more yarns or from a set of yarns. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loop, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, a garment. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by giving the final piece a different color, texture, weight and/or integrity. Using needles of varying sharpness & thickness as well as different varieties of yarn can also change the effect. Knitted fabrics is the third major class of fabric, after woven and non-wovenWEAVING v/s KNITTING Like weaving, knitting is a technique for producing a two-dimensional fabric made from a one-dimensional yarn or thread. In weaving threads are always straight, running parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft threads). By contrast, the yarn in knitted fabrics follows a meandering path (a course), forming symmetric loops (also called bights) symmetrically above and below the y than woven fabrics mean path of the yarn. These meandering loops can be stretched easily in different directions, which gives knitting much more elasticity than wove fabrics: depending on the yarn and knitted pattern, knitted garments can stretch as much as 500' For comparison, woven garments stretch mainly along one direction (the bias) and are not very elastic, unless they are woven from stretchable material such as spandex. Knitted garments are often more form- fitting than woven garments, since their elasticity allows them to follow the body's curvature closely. Thread used in weaving is usually much finer than the yarn used in knitting, which can give the knitted fabric more bulk and less drape than a woven fabric,CHARACTERISTICS = Knitted fabric is unique in that it possesses a high order of elasticity and recovery. It can be stretched to a considerable length and yet will gradually return to its original shape or conformation, "Design patterns can be changed quickly to meet fashion need. Process is less expensive and faster regardless of fabric width. *The knitted structure is porous. It allows the skin to breathe freely, Its elasticity permits greater freedom of body movements. "Knitted fabrics have higher potential shrinkage than woven fabrics, The accepted standard is 5% for knits, *Knits are less likely to wrinkle during use, care packing and storage. *Air permeability arising from its looped structure, imparts to it desirable and appealing properties.TYPES OF KNITTING Weft knits are constructed from one yarn, that is fed into knitting machine needles in a horizontal direction. Also called Filling. WEFT KNITTIN G WARP KNITTIN G Warp knit fabrics are constructed with yarn loops formed in a vertical or warp direction.Weft Knitting Single Jersey Purl Stitch Rib Stitch Interlock Stitch Warp Knitting Tricot Knits Raschel Knits Milanese Stitch- bondingWEFT KNITTING * Welt or filling knits is the most common type use to produce textile knitted products. “Weft knits are constructed from one yarn which is fed into a knitting machine in a horizontal direction, "Weft knit may be knitted with multiple yarns to produce interesting pattern design. *Needle with the help of cams, sinker make a new loop and passed it into previously held loops. *Weft Knitting is made using a single yarn, *It can be made by hand knitting or by machines. *Both flat bed and circular knitting machines can be used to make weft knit. *Few types or technique used to manufacture weft knit structure are Single jersey, Purl, Interlock and Rib,OCharacteristics of weft knitting:- * The fabric has high elasticity and stretch, *The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to keep us warm. “The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different the fabrics can lose shape easily, =Creases fall out easily. The fabric can unravel and ladder easily. *Weit knitted fabrics curl up the edges when they are not. ‘Weft KnittingSINGLE JERSEY STITCH * Plain jersey fabric is the simplest weft knitted structure, Jersey knits have flat vertical lines on the front and dominant horizontal ribs on the back of the fabric.OCharacteristics * Stretch crosswise and lengthwise, stretches more in the crosswise. *Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks. “Fabric less stable and curls when cut. QlEnd uses:- = Used for making sweaters, terry robes, t-shirts, men’s underwear and dresses. *Used from making hosiery and pantyhose. *Also used for making fully fashion garments. .PURL STITCH *A simple purl fabric looks like the back of jersey knit on the both side of the fabric. Purl fabrics are made on knitting machines called purl knit machine or links machines.OCharacteristics * The production process of purl knit is slow. “Both side similar appearance. =Good stretch in all direction but stretches out of shape easily. «Thicker than jersey knits and does not curl on edges. OlEnd uses * Used for making infant and children’s wear. *Used for making sweaters and scarves. *Used for doing fancy garment parts.RIB STITCH = Rib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabric with vertical rows (wales) of loops. *Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib having alternate wales knitted to the front and back. *The ribs tend to close up to create a double faced fabric, which has the same appearance on both sides. *Rib knits fabrics are produced with the knitting machines having two sets of needle, normally positioned at rights angle to each other.OCharacteristics = Its reversible fabric. "More elastic and more thicker than jersey knits. *More stretch crosswise than length wise and edges do not curl. =More expensive to produce. OlEnd uses * Used for making collars and cuffs and necklines. "Used for doing bottom edges of sweaters *Used for making double knits jackets, knit hats and men’s hosiery.INTERLOCK STITCH Interlock stitch knit are variations in rib stitch knits. “Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dial circular weft knitting machine, with alternate long and short needles opposite to each other on cylindrical and dial. 4 WP VA WHE Wu APA PASOCharacteristics * Its is a reversible fabric. *It is heavier and thicker as compare to rib and it does not curl at the edges. *It is a good insulator =Costlier fabric. OlEnd uses = Used for making skirt, blouses and t-shirts. =Used as an outerwear fabric for making dresses.WARP KNITTING * Warp knitted fabric is produced from a set of warp yarn. It is parallel knitted to each other down the length of the fabric. *More resistant to laddering than weft knits. 7s me 5 _ o_o i 1 10) a oe & @ eon eR a LA x. ésTRICOT KNITS * The right side of the fabric has fine lengthwise ribs while the reverse has crosswise ribs. “A soft and ‘drapery’ texture with some lengthwise stretch and almost no crosswise streteh. Tricot fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant. «Tricot is yery common fabric for making lingerie.RASCHEL KNITS *Raschel knits are produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights. and types. *Made out of conventional or novelty yarn which allows for interesting textures and designs to be created. *It is coarser than other warp knit fabrics. *Used for making lace fabric and trimmings.STITCH- BONDING KNITS *Stiteh- Bonding is a special form of warp knitting and is commonly used for the production of composite materials and technical textiles. “Fabrics produced with this process offer the potential of using, “sensitive fiber materials such as glass and carbon with only little damage, non-crimp fiber orientation and variable distance between threads”, *The advantage of includes its high productivity rate and the scope it offers foe functional design of textiles, such as fiber — reinforced plastics. “Being used in fields as wind energy generation and aviation.MILANESE KNITS *It is made from two sets of yarn knitted diagonally, which results in the face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the reverse having a diagonal structure. *Milanese fabric is superior to tricot in smoothness, elasti structure & friction resistance. regularity of “It is stronger, more stable, smoother and more expensive than tricot.KNITTING MACHINESSa] * In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on a straight plate. * Onthis machine needle bed remains stationary while yarn feeding system called carriage moves from one end to other end * This machine is used to knit collars, arm bands and sweatersIn circular knitting machines needles are fixed on a cylinder or dial ina circular shape. There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to needles at different places. In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial) moves while feeders remain stationary. Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case of sock knitting machines it is changeable due to structure of socksSINGLE KNIT MACHINES "In these machines needles are fixed on cylinder. “Sinker are fixed on sinker ring. =Needles knit with the help of sinkers.DOUBLE KNIT MACHINES =In double knit machine needles are fixed on dial as well as on cylinders. There is no sinkers on this machine. This machine is used to knit interlock, rib and double jerseys.Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly flexible used for under garments. Front and back wales are exactly at same point Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible but have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and waist band. Front and back wales are not at same point Double Jersey Double side knitted, can have different designs on both sides= Bras av es iit oe NIERLOCK MACHINEDOUBLE KNIT JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINESJACQUARD KNITTING MACHINEJACQUARD FABRICWARP KNITTED FABRICWARP KNITMING TECHNOLOGY am Weel oM cal dd ar=Agat-(o tl (tl -seea nt stoie | (otic) mounted collectively and rigidly ina horizontal metal bar (the needle bar that runs the full knitting width of the machine). Equally the yarn guides are also set rigidly into a horizontal metal bar (the guide bar that runs the full width of the machine).USE OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters, seat covers etc used as curtains, table covers used as chadar in some countries not used for clothingPROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC More stable than knitted Big and small holes are possible Many designs are possible Highly course yarn can be used Technical fabric can be producedTHANK YOU