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PART 1 - Spring Capelet

This document provides materials and instructions for making a spring capelet in three parts. The upper cape or yoke is worked back and forth in rows from a foundation chain using slip stitches and single crochets in the back loop only. It is worked for 110 rows or until it measures 22 inches across the top. The stitches are marked on each side to help locate them for the next part. Worsted or aran weight yarn is used for the solid color part, and self-striping yarn is joined at the end of row 110 to work the lower cape body. Gauge is not essential for the overall fit of the capelet.

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Fabros Vanessa
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417 views2 pages

PART 1 - Spring Capelet

This document provides materials and instructions for making a spring capelet in three parts. The upper cape or yoke is worked back and forth in rows from a foundation chain using slip stitches and single crochets in the back loop only. It is worked for 110 rows or until it measures 22 inches across the top. The stitches are marked on each side to help locate them for the next part. Worsted or aran weight yarn is used for the solid color part, and self-striping yarn is joined at the end of row 110 to work the lower cape body. Gauge is not essential for the overall fit of the capelet.

Uploaded by

Fabros Vanessa
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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Spring Capelet Part I

Design by Merri Purdy


merripurdy@verizon.net

Materials List:
● 175 - 200 yards Aran or worsted weight yarn (Fiber
used in sample: Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn
Solids 100% acrylic; color Ivory )
● 383 yards Aran or worsted weight self-striping yarn
(Fiber used in sample: Caron Cakes 80% acrylic,
20% wool; color: Fairie Cake)
● 5.5 mm (I) hook or hook appropriate for your yarn selection
● 2 - 1 1/8” inch buttons, 1 - ¼” button for interior
● Sewing thread and needle, scissors
● Stitch markers (optional, but very helpful)

Stitches/Abbreviations Used: Pattern Notes:


(BL) back loop ● Pattern directions for size S/M
(ch) chain ● American crochet terminology
(hdc) half double crochet ● Piece is worked in rows from the top down
(sc) single crochet ● The ch(s) at the beginning of a row do not count as
(Sl st) slip stitch a stitch

Gauge: 18.0 sts = 4 inches (Gauge is not essential to the overall fit of this cape.)

1
Upper Cape (Yoke) Directions:

Note 1: This portion of the cape will be worked back and forth in rows in the back loop only. The part closest to the neck is worked
in slip st, while the part closest to the shoulder is worked in sc. The ch 1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a st.

Note 2: If you are size M/L, then I would suggest adding 8 sts to your starting chain and adjusting your rows to include a
combination of 16 sl st and 16 sc. Complete 120 rows before changing your yarn and working the lower cape body.

Foundation Row 1: With solid colored fiber and leaving a 6” starting tail, loosely ch 25. Working all stitches of this row in
the back bump of the foundation chain, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in next 11 sts. Sc in back bump of 12 sts
remaining.(12 sl st/12 sc total = 24 sts)

Row 2 Ch1, turn. Working in BL only, 12 sc, sl st in remaining 12 sts. (12 sc/12 sl st total = 24 sts)

Row 3: Ch1, turn. Working in BL, sl st 12 sts, sc in remaining 12 sts. (12 sl st/12 sc total = 24 sts)

Row 4 - 110: Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked a total of 110 rows, or 22” measured along the top edge. At the
end of row 110, join new (self-striping) fiber. At the end of row 110, place a st marker in the the first and last sc worked
along each side to help locate these stitches as you work Part II of the pattern.

Note: Working the sc and sl sts in the back loop creates textural interest and also makes it easy to count the rows in the yoke. Each
“ridge” is made of two rows.

© Merri Purdy 02/14/2017

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