MANUAL

MANUAL DEL
DEL USUARIO
USUARIO
SERVICE
SERVICE MANUAL
MANUAL
MANUEL
MANUEL D’ENTRETIEN
D’ENTRETIEN
LIBRETTO
LIBRETTO USO
USO EE MANUTENZIONE
MANUTENZIONE

Compuesta

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 ENGLISH
SERVICE
SERVICE MANUAL
MANUAL

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 Foreword

GAS GAS thank you for your confidence

By choosing the new GAS GAS EC 2004 you have just entered the great GAS GAS family and, as a user of
the number one off-road motorbike manufacturer, you deserve the distinguished treatment that we wish to offer
to you both in our after-sale relationship and in the explanations that we provide in this manual.

Our EC 2004 is a bike conceived for the practice of high-competition enduro. It is actually the fruit of many
years of competition and experimentation in this demanding discipline, as well as the many great successes
achieved thanks to great trial riders who have contributed with their expertise to the basic data that have
allowed us to create a high-level motorbike.

Congratulations for making the right choice. With your skills at the commands of this motorbike, an adequate
preparation and the indispensable servicing for this GAS GAS to be highly reliable, you will be able to enjoy
the most comfortable and rewarding enduro practice.

Thanks for your confidence and welcome to GAS GAS Motos.

July 2003

EC 2004 -64-

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 COMMON NOTICE

Whenever you see the symbols shown below, heed their instructions! TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE
Always follow safe operating and maintenance practices. YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN FOR THE
ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER
PEOPLE.

WARNING
Off-road motorcycle riding is a wonderful sport, and we hope you
This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures will enjoy it to the fullest.
which, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, or loss
of live.

CAUTION
This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures
which, if noto strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction
of equipment.

NOTE
This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more
efficient and convenient operation.

However, if improverly conducted, the sport has the potential to

cause environmental problems as well as conflicts with other people.
Responsible use of your off-road motorcycle will ensure that these
problems and conflicts do not occur.

EC 2004 -65-

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword .........................................................................................64 Clutch ..............................................................................................85

Common notice ...............................................................................65 Silencer packing change .................................................................85
Table of contents .............................................................................66 Drive chain ......................................................................................86
Specifications ..................................................................................67 Handlebar........................................................................................88
Location of Components .................................................................69 Brakes .............................................................................................89
Side Stand.......................................................................................71 Steering...........................................................................................90
Fuel .................................................................................................71 Steering blocade .............................................................................91
Serial number..................................................................................73 Front fork.........................................................................................92
Starting the engine ..........................................................................73 Rear suspension .............................................................................95
Shifting gears ..................................................................................74 Wheel ..............................................................................................97
Stopping the motorcycle .................................................................75 Cleaning ..........................................................................................98
Table of maintenance ......................................................................76 Bolt and nut tightening ....................................................................99
Ignition timing ..................................................................................78 Lubrication.....................................................................................101
Cooling system................................................................................78 Tunning (Carburetor and suspension) ..........................................102
Spark plug .......................................................................................81 Preparation check..........................................................................111
Transmission ...................................................................................81 Storage..........................................................................................112
Air cleaner .......................................................................................83 Gas Gas speedo instructions ........................................................112
Throtlle cable...................................................................................84 Troubleshooting.............................................................................114
Carburetor .......................................................................................84 Warranty regulations .....................................................................118

EC 2004 -66-

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 SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE 2 cycle, single cylinder, crank case induction, liquid cooled

Engine 125 cc.
Bore and stroke 54 x 54.5 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 124 cc.
Engine 200 cc.
Bore and stroke 62.5 x 65 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 199,4 cc.
Engine 250 cc.
Bore and stroke 66.4 x 72 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 249,3 cc.
Engine 300 cc.
Bore and stroke 72 x 72 mm.
Displacement in cubic centimeters 294,7 cc.
Type
Carburetor KEIHIN PWK 38
Lubrication system Fuel premix (ratio) (50:1)(2%)
Starting system Kick start pedal
Ignition system CDI system.
Ignition timing 1 mm APMS.
Spark plug NGK BR8EG

TRANSMISSION
Transmission type 6 speed
Clutch type Multidisc in oil bath, hidraulic actuation
Driving system Chain
Gear Ratio 1ª 2.071(29/14)
2ª 1.625(26/16)
3ª 1.333(24/18)
4ª 1.100(22/20)
5ª 0.913(21/23)
6ª 0.791(19/24)
Primary reduction ratio 2.85 (57/20)
Final reduction ratio 3.692 (48/13)

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 Overall drive ratio 8.149 (6th gear)
Transmission oil Capacity 1800 cc.
Type 5W50 API SF o SG

CHASSIS
Type Chromolly tubular semi double cradle
Tires Front 80/100 x 21
Rear 120/90 x 18
Suspension Front Upside-down telescopic ø 43mm WP fork.
Upside-down telescopic ø 45mm Marzocchi fork.
Rear Progressive system with single shock, multi adjustable, ÖHLINS
Suspension stroke Front 282 mm.
Rear 320 mm.
Front fork oil (each) Marzocchi SAE 7,5
WP SAE 5
ÖHLINS SAE 5 - 7,5
Front fork oil level Marzocchi: 110 mm (compressed with spring removed).
WP: 120 mm (compressed with spring removed).
ÖHLINS: 110 mm (compressed with spring removed).

BRAKES
Type Front, rear Disc brake
Effective disc diameter Front 260 mm.
Rear 220 mm.

DIMENSIONS
Overall length 2135 mm.
Overall width 810 mm.
Overall height 1260 mm.
Wheell base 1475 mm.
Ground clearance 340 mm.
Fuel tank capacity 9,5 Litre (2,5 gallons u.s.)
Height seat 940 mm.

(Specifications are subject to change without notice and are not applicable in some countries).

EC 2004 -68-

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 LOCATION OF COMPONENTS

GAS GAS EC 2004 cc.

1 3 42 5 6

1- Clutch lever
2- Engine Stop Button
3- Fuel Tank Fill Cap
4- Front Brake Fluid Reservoir
5- Front Brake lever
6- Throttle Twist-Grip

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 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 19 20

13 14 15 16 9 17 21 22 23 24 25 26

7- Brake Disc, front 17- Air Cleaner

8- Front Suspension 18- Silencer
9- Brake fluid reservoir, rear 19- Seat
10- Fuel Tank 20- Nitrogen Reservoir
11- Carburetor 21- Chain Guide
12- Rear shock absorber 22- Drive chain
13- Brake Caliper, front 23- Rear Suspension Linkage
14- Radiator 24- Rear Brake Pedal
15- Fuel Tap 25- Kick Start Pedal
16- Shift pedal 26- Exhaust Expansion Chamber

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 SIDE STAND FUEL

To operate the side stand: The GAS GAS FSE 400 cc has a four stroke engine and requires
95 octane, unleaded gasoline
Release the security strap (B), the sidestand is held in the down
position by the weight of the motorcycle. Thes sidestand automatically Gas Tank Capacity
retracts when the motorcycle is placed in the upright position. ENDUCROSS FSE 9,5L

(B)

(B)
(C)

(A)

(A)

(A). Side Stand

(B). Sidestand spring (A). Fuel Cap.
(C). Security strap (B). Fuel Vent hose.

NOTE Position the vent hose clip in a position which prevents spillage on
Do not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side the steering bearings and the clock.
stand is down. Always engage the security strab (B) before
operation of the motorcycle.

EC 2004 -71-

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 RECOMENDED FUEL

Use premium gasoline with an octane rating equal to or higher than Recomended Oil:
that shown in the table. OIL 2T SINTETIC

OCTANE RATING METHOD MINIUM NOTE

RATING If recommended oil is not available, use only synthetic oil
designed for use in racing 2 cycle engines.
Antiknock Index (RON+MON)/2 90

Research Octane No. (RON) 98 Proporción of gasoline and oil mixture (premix ratio)(50 parts gasoline
to 1 part oil).

NOTE CAUTION
If "knocking" or "pinging" occurs, try a different brand of Do not mix vegetable and mineral based oils.
gasoline or higher octane grade. Too much oil will cause excessive smoking and spark plug fouling.
Too little oil will cause engine damage or premature wear.

WARNING To make an gasoline-oil mixture, pour oil and half of the gasoline
into a container first and stir the mixture thoroughly. Then add the
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain rest of the gasoline and stir the mixture well.
conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure
the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. NOTE
At low temperature, oil will not easily mix with gasoline. Take
time to ensure a well-blended mixture.
The lubricative quality of this mixture deteriorates rapidly; use
Engine Oil Mixing a fresh mixture for each day of operation.

Oil must be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate the piston, cylinder,
crankshaft, bearings, and connecting rod bearings.

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 SERIAL NUMBER START THE ENGINE

This number allows the motorcycle to be registered. The serial

number (or V.I.N.) is located on the steering stem of the frame. 1. You have to assure the motorcycle to the neutral position.
2. Turn right the key of fuel tank (A).
Official approval plate
ON
This motorcycle has an official approval plate. It shows the serial Open
number.

OFF RES
Reserve
Close

(A)

(A)

(B)

3. If the engine is
cold, pull up the
choke knob (B).

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 NOTE SHIFTING GEARS
- When the engine is already warm or on hot days, open
the throttle part way instead of using the choke knob. The transmission is a 6 speed, return shift type with neutral halfaway
- If the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully open. between 1st and 2nd gears. A ¨return shift¨means that to go back
- If the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can be to first gear from a higher gear, you must shift back through the gears
started while in any gear. one by one. The same is true when upshifting: each gear must be
engaged before the next higher gear may be selected.

To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push
down on the shift pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release
the shift pedal.
(F)

CAUTION
4. Start the
motorcycle with When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure
kick start pedal (F). complete, positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause
the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage.
5. Even after the engine starts, keep the choke knob pulled up. Until
the engine is thoroughly warmed up.

Stopping the engine

1. Change to the neutral position.

(A)
(A)
2. After racing the
engine slightly,
close the throttle
completely and
push the engine (A). Shift pedal.
stop button (A).

3. Turn the key in the unclock direction (position in "OFF" (C)).

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 STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE SPARK PLUG
Standard Plug Hotter Plug
For maximum deceleration, close the throttle (A) and apply both NGK BR8EG
front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes
to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be
advantageous under certain conditions. 1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly
Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine warmed up.
response when you want to accelerate. 2. Stop and let the engine cool completely.
3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moderate speed -
NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.
(A) 4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be sure to check and
adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and make a general inspection.
5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moderate speed. -
NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.
6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust as step
(look maintenance and adjustment table).
7. Install the parts removed.
8. Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler, bleed the
air from the cooling system.
9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moderate speed -
NEVER ACCELERATE HARD.
10. Stop and let the engine cool completely, check and adjust.
BREAK-IN 11. After the break-in procedure has been properly carried out, the
motorcycle is ready for regular operation. However, since recklessly
Para obtener un óptimo funcionamiento del motor y la transmisión, high r/min (rpm) will lead to engine trouble, take care to use the
es necesario una suave ejecución, teniendo que llevarse a cabo un necessary skill and technique in operating the motorcycle.
rodaje previo. Para la primera hora o 20 Km. de la operación, rodar
el motor a una baja y moderada velocidad y r/min.
CAUTION
However, since recklessly high r/min (rpm) will lead to engine trouble,
NOTE take care to use the necessary skill and technique in operating the
The slow riding necessary during the break-in period may cause motorcycle.
carbon to build up on the spark plug and foul it. If inspection
of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard
spark plug with a hotter spark plug for the duration of the break- NOTE
in period. After break-in, install a new standard spark plug, and change
the transmission oil.

EC 2004 -75-

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 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT
Check / Adjust Replace / Clean Grease /
Part inspect Change Lubricate

Clutch Each race Each race Each race* - Each race

Friction plates 3 races 3 races* 3 races* - -
Throttle cable - Each race - - -
Spark plug - - - 1 race -
Air cleaner element - - If it's damaged 1 race -
Carburetor Each race Each race - - -
Transmission oil - - 3 races - -
Piston and piston ring 3 races 3 races* 3 races* 3 races -
Cylinder head, cyl. & exhaust valves 3 races 3 races* 3 races* - -
Muffler Each race 1 race* 1 race* 1 race -
Silencer packing - 10 races* 10 races - -
Small end bearing 3 races 3 races* 10 races - 3 races
Kick pedal and shift pedal - - - - 1 race
Exhaust pipe o'ring - - 3 races - -
Engine bearings check 10 races 10 races* 10 races* - -
Coolant 3 races 3 races* 3 races* - -
Radiator hoses, connections Each race 1 race* 1 race* - -
Brake adjustment 3 races 3 races* 3 races* - -
Brake wear 5 races 5 races* 5 races* - -
Brake fluid level 3 races 3 races* 3 races* - -
Brake fluid - - Every 2 years - -
Brake master cyl. cup & dust seat - - Every 2 years - -

The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.

NOTA: (*) Inspect and do this operations only if it is necessary.

EC 2004 -76-

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 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT
Check / Adjust Replace / Clean Grease /
Part inspect Change Lubricate

Brake caliper pisto seal & dust seal - - Every 2 years - -

Brake hose and pipe - - Every 4 years - -
Spoke tightness and rim runout 1 race 1 race* 1 race* - -
Lubricate drive chain - - - - 1 race
Drive chain 1 race - - - -
Drivechain wear - 5 races 5 races - -
Chain slider 5 races 5 races* 5 races* - -
Front fork 1 race If it's damaged If it's damaged If it's damaged -
Front fork oil - - Each year - -
Nuts, bolt, fasteners 5 races 5 depósitos* 5 races* - -
Fuel hose 7 races 7 depósitos* 7 races - -
Fuel system - - 10 races If it's necessary -
Steering play 1 race - - - -
Rear sprocket 5 races 5 depósitos* 5 races* - -
General lubrication 5 races - - - 5 races
Steering bearing - - - - 10 races
Wheel bearing 10 races 10 depósitos* 10 races* - -
Swing arm and uni-trak linkage pivots 5 races 5 depósitos* 5 races* - 5 races
Rear chock oil Every 2 years 2 years* 2 years* - -

The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance
Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.

NOTA: (*) Inspect and do this operations only if it is necessary.

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 IGNITION TIMING - If the marks are not aligned, loosen the magneto stator screws
and turn the magneto stator.
- Tighten the screws securely.
Because a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) system is used on this - Install the magneto cover.
motorcycle, the ignition timing should never require adjustment
unless the magneto stator is incorrectly installed during engine NOTE
reassembly. However, if there is any doubt as to the timing, inspect
and adjust, if necessary, as follows: The ignition timing can be adjusted for different power and to
suit the rider´s preference and ability.

Ignition Timing Adjustment

- Remove the magneto cover.
- Remove the magneto cover (A). - Loosen the stator screws.
- Adjust the timing by shifting the stator position within the three
- Check to see if the center mark of the three marks on the magneto lines.
stator (C) is aligned with the mark on the crankcase (B).

NOTE
For the best engine performance, it is very important to adjust
125 cc. the ignition timing within the adjustable range just explained.

- Tighten the stator screws securely.

- Install the magneto cover.
(A) - Test ride the motorcycle and readjust the ignition timing if necessary.

200/250/300 cc. COOLING SYSTEM

(B) (C) Radiator Hoses

Check the radiator hoses for cracks or deterioration, and connections

for looseness in acordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.

Radiator

Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or mud. Clean off
any obstructions with a stream of lowpressure water.

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 CAUTION
Using high-pressure water, as from a car wash facility, could damage
If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing
the radiator fins and impair the radiator´s effectiveness.
point of water, protect the cooling system against engine and radiator
Do not obstruct or deflect airflow through the radiator by installing
freeze-up.
unauthorized accessories in front of the radiator.
Interference with the radiator airflow can lead to overheating and
Use a permanent type of anti-freeze (soft water and ethylene glycol
consequent engine damage.
plus corrossion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminium engines
and radiators) in the cooling system. For the coolant mixture ratio
Coolant information
under extreme conditions, choose the mixture ratio listed on the
container for the lowest ambient temperature.
To protect the cooling system aluminum parts (engine and radiator)
from rust and corrosion, the use for corrosion and rust inhibitor
chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion
CAUTION
and rust inhibitor chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the
Permantent types of antifreeze on the market have anticorrosion
cooling system accumulates rust and scale in the water jacket and
and anti-rust properties. When it is diluted excessively, it loses its
radiator. This will clog coolant passages, and reduce the efficiency
antifreeze and anticorrosion properties. Dilute a permanent type of
of the cooling system.
antifreeze in accordance with the instructions of manufacturer.
CAUTION
Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause severe engine and
cooling system damage.
Coolant
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for
aluminum engines and radiators in accordance with the instructions
Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to
of the manufacturer.
the air at the radiator. If the coolant level becomes low, the engine
overheats and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level
each day before riding the motorcycle. Replenish coolant if the level
WARNING
is low.
Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant
manufacturer warnings and coolant handing instructions.
WARNING

Para evitar quemaduras, no saque el tapón del radiador o trate de

CAUTION
cambiar el líquido cuando el motor esté todavía caliente. Espere
Soft or distilled water must be used with the inhibitor chemicals and
hasta que se enfríe.
the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in the cooling system. If
hard water is used in the system, it causes scale accumulation in
the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the
cooling system.
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 Coolant level Recommended coolant

- Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. Permanent type of antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus
- Remove the radiator (A) cap in two steps. First turn the cap corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and
counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. radiators.
Then push and turn it further in the same direction and remove the
cap. NOTE
A permanent type of antifreeze is installed in the cooling system
when shipped. It is colored green, contains a 50% solution of
ethylene glycol, and has a freezing point of -35º C. (-32º F )(USA).

Water and coolant mixture ratio

(A) 1:1 (Water 50%, coolant 50%).
Tatal amount: 1,1 L.

Coolant Change

The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine

life.
NOTE - Wait for the engine to cool completely.
Check the level when the engine is cold. - Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground.
- Remove the radiator cap.
- Check the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant level should - Place a container under the coolant drain plug, and drain the coolant
be to the bottom of the radiator filler neck. (see illustration). from the radiator and engine by removing the drain plug at the bottom
- If the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of coolant through of the water pump cover. Immediately wipe or wash off any coolant
the filler opening. that spills on the frame, engine, or wheels.
125 cc. 200 / 250 / 300 cc.

(A)
(A)
(B)
(B)
(1). Coolant level.
(2). Breather Hose.

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 Standard Spark Plug
WARNING
NGK CR8 E o DENSO U24ESR-N 0.7-0.8 mm.
Coolant on tires will make them slippery and can cause an accident
and injury.
The spark plug should be taken out periodically to check its gap
and ceramic insulator. If the plug is oily or has carbon build up on
- Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish cotton-like wafts are it, clean it (preferably with a (sandblaster) and then clean off any
observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded. If the abrasive particles. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-
coolant is brown, iron or steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool. Measure the
the cooling system. gap with a wire-type thickness gauge, and adjust the gap, if incorrect,
- Check the cooling system for damage, loose joints, or leaks. by bending the outer electrode. If the spark plug electrodes are
- Install the water pump cover drain plug and cylinder drain plug with corroded or damaged, or if insulator is cracked, replace the plug.
the specified torques shown in the table. Always replace the gasket
with a new one, if it damaged. NOTE
Inspect every 30 hours and replace every 60 hours.

Drain plug tightening torque (look maintenance table) To find out whether the right temperature plug is being used, pull it
Water Pump Cover Plug: 9 Nm. out and examine the ceramic insulator around the center electrode.
If the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to
engine temperature. If the ceramic is burned whit, the plug should
- Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck be replaced with the next colder plug. If the ceramic is black, the
with coolant, and install the radiator cap. plug should be replaced with the next hotter plug.
- Check the cooling system for leaks.
- Start the engine, warm up the engine throughly, then stop the
engine. NOTE
- Check the coolant level after the engine cools down. Add If the engine performance drops, replace the spark plug first to
coolant up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck. regain performance.

TRANSMISSION
SPARK PLUG
For the transmission and clutch to function properly, maintain the oil
The standard spark plug is a shown in the table. level at the proper level. Change the oil periodically. Oil at an
Spark plug should have a specified gap, and be tightened to 27 N- insufficient level deteriorates and contaminates rapidly. This
m. (20FT.LBS). accelerates wear and promotes premature failures.

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 Oil level Transmission oil type

- Stand the motorcycle upright and level allow a few minutes for the
oil to settle. Viscosity: SAE 10W30.
Capacity: 1000 cc.

Oil Change

- The transmission oil should be changed periodically to assure long

engine life.
- Warm the engine (over 5 minutes) to suspend the sediment, liquify
(A) the impurities, and faciclitate removal.
- Observe the oil level - Stop the engine, and place an oil pan beneath the engine.
at the window (A) on - Remove the drain plug and position the vehicle so that it is
the lower right side of perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil to drain out.
the engine case. - Install the drain plug with its gasket, tightening it to20-Nm.
- Remove the oil filler opening plug of fresh transmission oil (C).
- The maximum and minimum lever of oil is this window. EC 200/ 250/ 300 remove with 900 cc and EC 125 with 650 cc.
- Check the oil level, after kicking the kick pedal 3 or 4 times.
- Install the oil filler opening plug.

200/250/300 cc.
(C)
(B)

- If the lever is higher,

you have to empty the
leftover oil by the oil (C)
drain plug (B).

- By another way, if the oil level is smaller, fill up opening the fill plug
(C). Use the same oil type than you had. 125 cc.

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 AIR CLEANER - Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the carburetor so no dirt is allowed
to enter the carburetor.
A clogged air cleaner restricts the engine´s air intake, increasing
fuel consumption, reducing engine power, and causing spark plug CAUTION
fouling. Do not spin the filter on its cage. It is possible to tear or damage the
filter.
WARNING
- Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner hoousing with a clean damp
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the carburetor towel.
and stick the throttle open. This could cause an accident.

CAUTION
A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine
causing excessive wear and possible engine damage.

Inspect the element, without fail, before and after each racing or
practice session. Clean it if necessary.
- Take the element (B)
off the frame (A).
Element Cleaning

WARNING - Clean the element in a

bath of a filter cleaning
Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there fluid using a soft bristle
are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes brush.
any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash-
point solvent to clean the element. A fire or explosion coluld result.

- Remove the filter

cover (A).
- Remove the wing
bolt (B) and pull out
the element (C).
- Squeeze it dry in a
(B) clean towel. Do not
wring the element or
(A) (C) blow it dry; the element
can be damaged.

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 - Inspect the element for damage such as tears, hardening, or - If the free play cannot beset by adjusting the upper cable adjuster,
shrinkage. If damaged, replace it or it will allow dirt into the carburetor. pull the rubber boot off of the carburetor top. Make the necessary
- Apply grease to all connections and srew hole in the air cleaner free play adjustment at the lower cable adjuster, tighten the locknut,
housing and intake tract. and reinstall the rubber boot.

CARBURETOR

Idling Adjustment
- Install the element in
Iding adjustment is carried out using the air screw (A) and idle
the machine (A), and
ajusting screw (B).
make sure the sealing
- First turn in the air screw until it seats lightly, and back it out 1 1/2
surface of the element
turns.
is seated properly.
- After thoroughly warming up the engine, turn the idle adjusting
- Install the seat. screw to obtain the desired idle speed. If no idle is preferred, turn
out the screw until the engine stops.
THROTLLE CABLE

- Inspect the throttle grip for smooth operation in all steering positions.In
accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, check and adjust (B)
the throttle cable.
. Check that the throttle grip has 2-3 mm of play and turns smoothly.
. If the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the
throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct amount of
play. Tighten the locknut.
(C) (B)(A) (A)

- Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure the idle speed
does not change. Readjust if necessary.

- With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to each side. If handlebar
(A). Adjuster. movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be
(B). Locknut. improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be
(C). Throttle grip. sure to correct any of these conditions before riding.

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 WARNING EXHAUST SYSTEM

Operation with a damaged cable could result in an unsafe riding The muffler and silencer reduce exhaust noise and conduct the
condition. exhaust gases back away from the rider.

If the muffler is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace

CLUTCH it with a new one. Replace the silencer packing. If the exhaust noise
becomes too loud or the engine performance drops.
Proper clutch lever play between the clutch lever and the clutch
lever holder is 2-3 mm. Silencer Packing Cange

When there is too much lever play, first try adjusting the clutch lever. - Remove the right side cover.
- Remove the silencer (B) mounting bolts (A) and pull the silencer
Loosen the knurled locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain the proper off toward the rear.
amount of lever play, and tighten the locknut.

(D) (B)

(A) (B)

(C) (A)
Install the inner pipe
(A). Clutch lever.
- Remove the inner pipe mounting rivots, and pull out the inner pipe.
(B). Knurled Locknut.
- Pull off the old silencer packing, and install the new silencer packing.
(C). Adjuster.
- Install the inner pipe into the silencer.
(D). Hydraulic fluid tank.
- Install the silencer and right side cover.

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 (B) (A) (A). Rivots.
(B). Inner Pipe.

30-50 mm.

In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect

DRIVE CHAIN
the drive chain and sprockets for damaged rollers, loose pin and
links, unevenly or excessively worn teet, and damaged teeth.
The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in
accordance with the Periodic Maintenance table. If the chain becomes
badly worn or maladjusted either too loose or too tight the chain
Slack Adjustment
could jump off the sprockets or break.
- Loosen the rear axle (A) nut (B) and both chain adjuster locknuts.
- Turn the nuts on the chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive
WARNING
chain has 30-50 mm. of space between the chain and the swing
arm. To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the notch on the left
A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the
chain adjuster should align with the same swing arm mark that the
engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the
on the right chain adjuster aligns with.
motorcycle and causing it to go out of control.

Slack Inspection (B) (C)

The space between the chain and the swing arm at the rear of the
chain slider should be 30-50 mm.Rotate the rear wheel to find the
place where the chain is tightest (because it wears unevenly). Adjust
the drive chain if it has too much or too little slack.

(A)

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 NOTE master link clip must be installed with the closed end of the
Wheel alignment can also be checked using the straightedge «U» points in the direction of chain rotation.
or string metod.

WARNING

Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may

result in an unsafe riding condition.

- Tighten the axle nut to 98 N-m. (70ft-lbs).

- Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts.
- Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest
position, and readjust if necessary. (A). Clip.
(B). Direction of Chain Rotation.
WARNING
Chain Guide Wear
If the axle nut is not securely tightened an unsafe riding condition
may result. Visually inspect the drive chain guide. If the guide is worn excessively
or damaged, replace it.

Drive chain, chain guide, chain slidder, and sprockets wear

inspection.

When the chain has worn so much that it is more than 2% longer
than when new, it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced.
Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine and rear
sprockets, and replace them if necessary. Worn sprockets will cause (A)
a new chain to wear quickly.

NOTE
For maximum strech resistance and safety, a genuine part must
be used for replacement. (A). Chain Guide.
To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the

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 Cain Slider Wear Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it will penetrate to the rollers
and bushings. Wipe off any excess oil.
Visually inspect the upper and lower chain sliders.

(A) (B)
(A). Apply oil.

HANDLEBAR

To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted

front to rear.

Handlebar position adjustment

(A). Chain Slider.
(B). Seing Arm. Loosen the handlebar holder (A) nuts (B), turn about the handlebar
holder, and tighten the nuts securely.

Sprocket Wear
(B) (A)
Visually inspect the sprocket teeth. If they are worn or damaged,
replace the sprockets.

Lubrication

Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or

any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil is preferred to a
lighter ol because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better
lubrication.

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 Tighten the clamp bolts, front first and then the rear, to 25 Nm of Rear brake pedal position
torque (18 ft.lbs).
When the brake pedal is in rest position, there should be a play of
10 mm. If not, adjust the pedal position.
Check the brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster.
If the handlebar After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely.
clamp is correctly
installed, there will
be an even gap at
the front and rear
(A) after tightening.
(A).

BRAKES
(A) (B)
Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has
no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts
that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play and
brake pedal position

Front brake lever play

(D) (C)
Adjust the front brake lever (A) to suit you. To adjust the brake lever
play, loosen the locknut (B) and turn the adjuster to either side. After (A). Rear brake pedal.
adjustment, tighten the locknut securely. Then check the brake for (B). 10 mm of play.
good braking power and no brake drag. (C). Adjusting bolt.
(D). Locknut.
(A)

WARNING
(B)
If the brake lever or pedal feels mushy when it is applied, there might
be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is
dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, have
the brake checked inmediately.

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 Disc brake fluid CAUTION
Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface.
In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the Do not use fluid from a container that has been left open or that has
brake fluid level in the reservoir and change the brake fluid. The been unsealed for a long time.
brake fluid should also be changed if it becomes contaminated with Check for fluid leakage around the fittings.
dirt or water. Check for brake hose damage.

Disc brake fluid: Use D.O.T.3 o D.O.T.4. WARNING

Fluid level inspection Do not mix two brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake
line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled with a type other
The front (A) and rear (B) reservoirs must be kept more than half than the brake fluid already in the reservoirs.
full with brake fluid.If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add
brake fluid. Brake wear inspection

In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the

brakes for wear. For each front and rear disc brake caliper. If the
thickness of either pad is less than 1 mm, replace both pads in the
caliper as a set Pad replacement should be done by an authorized
GAS GAS dealer.

(A) Steering

The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar

will turn freely but have no excessive play.

(B)

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 To check the steering adjustment, using a stand under the frame, - Tighten the steering stem head nut (B), and front fork upper or
raise the wheel off the ground. Push the handlebar lightly to either lower clamp bolts to the specified torque.
side; if it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering
is not too light. Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower Stem head nut: 44 N-m (4.5 Kg-m).
ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom end Fork clamp bolts: 22 N-m (2.25 Kg-m).
of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steering is too loose.
- Check the steering again, and readjust if necessary.
- Install the removed parts.
If the steering needs adjustment

- Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle. STEERING BLOCADE
- Place a stand or block under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. This mecanism (A) allows us to blokade the steering. Is placed on
- Remove the handlebar (A). pipe steering.
(A) You have to turn right the handlebar, pull in the key, turn left the key,
push, turn right and pull out the key.

(A)
(C)

(D) (B)

- Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts, and remove the steering
head nut and washer, and take off the steering stem head (B).
- Turn the steering stem locknut with the stem nut wrench to obtain
the proper adjustment (C). (A). Steering blocade.
- Install the stem head (D).

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 CAUTION - Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle.
Never forget the key in the lock. If you turn left the steering with the - Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is
key in, it will be damaged. raised off the ground.
- Remove the screws at the top of the front fork top bolts to let the
air pressure equalize. Then replace them.
FRONT FORK

The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider´s weight and
track conditions by using one or more of the following methods.

- Air pressure: Air pressure acts as a progressive spring and affects

the entire range of fork travel. The air pressure in the fork increases
as the fork heats up, so the fork action on your GAS GAS will get
stiffer as the race progresses. Because of this, we don´t recommend (A)
using air pressure for additional springing. Your GAS GAS forks are
designed to work without adding any air.
(A). Screw air purge.
- Rebound and compression dampening adjustment: This adjustment
affects how quickly the rebound. The fork rebound dampening
adjuster has 16 clicks. The seated position (fully clockwise until the Ajustar extensión
adjuster stops) is full hard. From the point 6 - 8 clicks counterclockwise
is the standar setting, and 16 clicks counterclockwise is full soft. Rebound Dampening Adjustment

- Oil level adjustment: The effects of higher or lower fork oil level - To adjust turn the knob located at the top of the fork.
are only felt during the final 100 mm of fork travel. A higher oil level - Adjust to rider preferance.
will make the fork rebound more slowly.

- Fork springs: Optional springs are available that are softer and
stiffer than standard.

Air Pressure

The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is atmospheric

pressure. The air pressure in the fork legs increases as operation
(A)
progresses.
(A). Adjuster knobs.

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 Stand oil level
CAUTION
The left and right fork tubes must bealigned (level) at the top clamps. Marzocchi: 110 mm.
(see the illustration).
WP: 120 mm.
Öhlins: 110 mm.
Compression Dampening Adjustment

- To adjust, turn the knob located at the top of the fork. Adjust to
rider preferance.

Oil level Adjustment

- Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle.

- Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is
raised off the ground.
- Remove the front fender and front disc cover.
- Unbolt the brake hose holder mounting bolts.
- Remove the front fork protectors.
- Remove the handlebar clamp bolts and remove the handlebar.
- Remove the top clamps of the forklegs.
- Let the forks completely compress.
- Raise the fork springs from the fork.
- Grasp the top casps and loosen the clck nuts on the caps. (A). Draining Oil.
- Remove the caps from the fork legs. (B). Filling oil.
- Remove the fork springs.
- Put the oil level gauge on the top of the fork tube, and measure Adjust the oil level as required within the adjustable range using the
the distance from the top of the fork tube to the oil level. following oil:

Recomended oil

MARZOCCHI SAE 7´5

WP. SAE 5
ÖHLINS 5 - 7'5

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 (1). Spring
(2). Locknut
(3). Suspension cap
(4). Cap Wrench
(5). Lock nut wrench

Fork Springs

Different fork springs are available to achieve suitable front fork

action in accordance with the rider´s weight and track conditions.
(A). Push Rod - Harder springs make the fork stiffer, and rebound action quicker.
- Softer sprigs make the fork softer, and rebound action slower.

- Pull up the push rod (A) slowly. Fork Clamp Position Adjustment
- At this time, the fork oil comes out of the push rod hole, let it
overflow until it stops. Steering qualities are greatly affected by the fork clamp position (the
- Put the fork spring (1) into the fork tube. amount of the outer tube projecting above the steering stem head).
- Pull down the fork spring and insert the spring holder (5) (special When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter
tool) under the push rod nut or piston holder. due to change in weight bias. Also, it tends to understeer in turns
- Install the top cap bolt (3) on the top of the fork tube and tighten at «whash out». When the height is greater, the results are opposite.Be
it to 29 N-m. (21 ft.lbs). sure the front tire doesn´t rub the fender when the fork tubes compress
- Repeat on other fork. fully. Make this adjustment in 5mm increments.
- Install removed parts.

CAUTION
The outer tubes, both right and left, should be adjusted evenly.

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 Shock Rebound Dampening Adjustment
Rear shock Absorber

o adjust shock rebound dampening, turn the rebound dampening

adjuster on the rear shock absorber lower end until you feel a click.

The total number of adjustments is: 60 ¨CLICKS¨.

The standard setting is: 25 ¨CLICKS¨.

(Counterclockwise from fully closed).

(1)

(1). Fork tube height

REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension system of this motorcycle is single shock. It (A). Rebound dampening adjuster.
consist of a rear shock absorber, swing arm, tie rods and rocker
arm.
Shock compression dampening adjustment
In general the operating characteristics of the single shock are similar
to the front fork. But, in achieving progressive spring characteristics To adjust schock compression dampening, turn the adjuster screw
a linkage system is used. on the gas reservoir until you feel a (click).

To suit various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock The total number of adjustments is: 60 ¨CLICKS¨.
absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an The standard setting is: 30 ¨CLICKS¨.
optional one. Also the dampening force can be adjusted easily so
changing oil viscosity is unnecessary. (Counterclockwise from fully closed).

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 Suspension spring

(A) The standard spring is a 4.0.

The standard spring preload length is 258 mm.

(A) (C)
(A). Compression dampening adjuster
(B)
Adjusting the spring
(A). Adjusting
- Remove the seat, right and left side number plates. (B). Spring
- Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp screw. (C). Lock nut (ring)
- Remove the silencer.
- Remove the rear subframe with the air cleaner box.
- Tighten the locknut (ring) securely.
- After adjustment, move the spring up and down to make sure that
the spring is seated.
- Install the parts removed.

Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement

In addigtion to the standard spring, harder and softer springs are

available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select
a proper one according to the rider´s weight or course conditions.
- Using the harder spring:The spring rate is higher.
(B) (A) - Using the softer spring:The spring rate is lower.

(A). Rear subframe. NOTE

(B). Air cleaner box. Look at page 106.

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 (A). Llave tensador radios
WARINING

Improper removal of the spring from the rear shock absorber body
may cause the spring and associated parts to be ejected at high
velocity. Always wear eye and face protection. Removal and installation
of spring should be performed by an person or company.

WHEELS

Tires
(A). Spoke Wrench.
- Tire pressure affects traction, handling, and tire life.
- Adjust the tire pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference,
but do not stray too far from the recommended pressure.

NOTE Tire bead lock (clamp)

Tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold before
you ride.
There is a lock (clamp) on the front and rear wheels. The bead lock
(clamp) prevents the tire and tube from slipping on the rim and
Track condition damaging the valve stem. Valve stem damage may cause the tube
to leak, necessitating tube replacement. In order that the tire and
- When the track is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tire tube remain fixed in position on the rim, inspect the bead lock (clamp)
pressure. before riding and tighten it if necessary. Tighten the valve stem nut
- When the track is pebbly or hard, increase the tire pressure. finger tight only.

Spokes and Rim

NOTE
The spokes on both wheels must all be tightened securely and evenly The weld joint area of the rim may show excessive runout.
and not be allowed to loosen. Unevenly tightened or loose spokes Disregard this when measuring runout.
will cause the rim to warp, hasten nipple and overall spoke fatigue,
and may result in spoke breakage.

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 CLEANING 3- After washing:

- Remove the plastic bags, and clean the air cleaner intake.
1- Preparation for washing - Lubricate the points listed in the lubrication section.
- Start the engine and run for 5 minutes.
Before washing, precautions must be taken to keep water off the - Dry the brakes before operating the motorcycle.
following places:

Rear opening of: The silencer cover with a plastic bag secured WARNING
with rubber bands
Never wax or lubricate the brake disc. Loss of braking and an accident
Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, engine stop button: Cover could result. Clean the disc with an oil-less solvent such as
with plastic bags. trichloroethylene or acetone.

Air cleaner intake: Close up the opening with tape or

stuff in rags.

2- Where to be careful

Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following
places:

- Disc brake master cylinders and calipers.

- Under the fuel tank : If water gets into the ignition coil or into the
spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded
out. When this happens, the motorcycle will not start and the affected
parts must be wiped dry.
- Front and rear hubs.
- Steering pivots (Steering stem head pipe).
- Suspension linkage system pivots.
- Swing arm pivot.

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 BOLT AND NUT TIGHTENING

Every day before riding, check without fail the tighteness of the bolts and nuts described here. Also, check to see whether or not each cotter pin
is in place and in good condition.

1 2 3,4 5,6,7 8 9 1 19 20 21 22 23,24,25

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 26 27 28,29 30,31,32 33

1- Bead lock nut 10-Spokes 19-Seat mounting bolt 28-Rear brake pedal bolt
2- Front fork clamp bolts 11-Front axle clamps nuts 20-Subframe bolts 29-Rocker arm mounting bolt
3- Handlebar mounting bolt 12-Brake hose clamp nuts 21-Rear chock absorber bolts 30-Swingarm shaft nut
4- Clutch lever support bolt 13-Radiator mounting bolts 22-Exhaust mounting bolts and nut 31-Kick pedal bolt
5- Cylinder head bolts 14-Engine mounting nuts 23-Fork clampbots 32-Kick pedal nut
6- Spark plug 15-Shift pedal bolt 24-Steering shaft nut 33-Brake hose mounting bolts
7- Cylinder head bolts 16-Rear subframe mounting bolts 25-Rear brake mounting bolt
8- Air cleaner box bolts 17-Chain guide bolts 26-Rear axle nut
9- Disc plate screws 18-Chain adjuster locknuts 27-Connecting rod mounting bolt

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 Torque Table

Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. A bolt or nut if insufficiently tightened may become damaged or
fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider.

PART NAME N-m / FT.LBS. Kg-m / IN.LBS.

Cylinder head bolts 25/ 18 2.5/ 221

E
Cylinder base nuts 34/ 25 3.5/ 300
N Engine drain plug 20/ 15 2.0/ 177
G Kick pedal bolt 20/ 15 2.0/ 177
I Kick pedal nut 25/ 18 2.5/ 221
N Shift pedal bolt 10/ 7 1.0/ 88
Spark plug 27/ 20 2.8/ 239
E
Water pump cover drain plug 9/ 6,6 0.9/ 80
Caliper mounting bolts 25/ 18 2.5/ 221
Disc plate mounting screws 10/ 7 1.0/ 88
Engine mounting bolts 36/ 26,5 3.6/ 318
Front axle 51/ 38 5.1/ 451
Trottle clamp bolts 6/ 4 0.6/ 53
C
Tripple clamp bolts 29/ 21 3.0/ 256
H Steering shaft nut 98/ 72 10.0/ 88
A Rear axle nut 98/ 72 10.0/ 88
S Brake pedal nut 9/ 6,6 0.9/ 80
S Front fork top bolts 26/ 19 2.7/ 230
Handlebar clamp bolts 39/ 28 4.0/ 345
I
Steering shaft nut 29/ 21 3.0/ 256
S Spokes 1,5/ 1,1 0.15/ 13
Axle clamp nuts 4/ 3 4.5/ 35
Swingarm pivot bolt 81/ 60 8.3/ 716
Rear tie rod bolts 81/ 60 8.3/ 716

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 LUBRICATION

Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor oil or regular
grease, in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or
whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions,
and especially after using a high pressure spray washer. Before
lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and
wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.

(D)
General lubrication

- Clutch lever (A).

- Front brake lever (B).
- Rear brake pedal (C). Use an aerosol cable lubricant with a pressure luber:
- Rear brake rod joints (D).
- Shift pedal (E).
(A) (B)

Apply grease to the

following point
throttle inner
cable upper ends.
(D) (C)
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 Chain lubrication NOTE
The main jet should be increased or decreased one to five sizes
Lubricate the chain after drive over wet places or when the chain and tested until the engine gives maximum power.
looks dry. It's better a high viscosity oil than a small viscosity oil
because it will stay a long time in chain.
Main jet

The number of the main jet, stamped on the bottom or side of the
jet, indicates the relative size of the hole in the jet which meaters
fuel.

(A) (A) (A). To grease

TUNING

1. CARBURETOR TUNING

Tuning a carburetor is not the mysterious science many racers belive

it to be. One needs only to establish a basic knowledge of the
identification and function of carb components as well as how the
work together to do the job well.
Change due to temperature:
(A). Main jet.

Condition mixture setting change

WARNING
Cold air lean rich
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain
Warm air rich lean conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make suure
Dry air lean rich the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or
Low altitude standard standard sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
High altitude rich lean

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 Slow Jet (piltot jet) and air screw Jet needle

The slow jet and air srew controls the mixture in the closed to 1/8 The jet needle and jet needle hole together have their greatest effect
throttle range, but has little effect on up to full throttle. To adjust the in the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range. The needle moves in and out of the
mixture in this range, the air screw can be turned to change the air jet needle hole; since the needle is tapered, its position in the jet
flow through the circuit, or the slow jet can be changed to provide determines the amount of fuel allowed through. There are five
more or less fuel. Start by turning the air screw to provide more or grooves in the top of the needle in which a circlip fits. This clip
less fuel. Screwing it in richens the mixture. Air screw (A) specs locates the needle in the throttle valve and, therefore, determines
indicate the turns out from a lightly seated position. Make changes its position relative to the jet needle hole.
in 1/2 turn increments. If turning the srew between one and two- Clip position
and-a-half turns doesn´t provide the desired results, change the
slow jet (B).

Needle size
number

Working area

Test runs

- Warm up the engine with the carburetor at the standard settings,

and run two or three laps of the course while examining the operating
condition of the spark plug.
- Test-ride the bike by varying the throttle opening.

Symptoms of improper settings

If your machine exhibits one or more of the symptoms listed below,

it may need carb tuning changes.
(B) Before attempting any changes, however, make sure that everything
else is in good shape and tuned properly.

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 Check the condition of the spark plug, make sure the ingnition timing Correction factors:
is correct, service the air cleaner element, decarbonize the muffler
If you machine has run properly at a certain track in the past and (For changes in altitude and temperature).
then starts running poorly with the same carb settings, the problem
is almost certain to be elsewhere; changing the carb settings in such 1. Find your correction factor to adjust the carburetor.
a case would probably be a waste of time.
EXAMPLE: 1000 meters (3200 ft) altitude with an air temperature
Condition of spark plug of 35º C (95ºF). The correction factor is 0.94 (see dotted line for the
example.
Correct Insulator dry and light tan color
Too lean Insulator is whitish Replace the main jet with one 2. Using your correction factor, select the correct slow jet and main
step larger jet.
Too rich Insulator is wet, black and Replace the main jet wit one
sooty step smaller Example: For a correction factor of 0.94, multiply the jet size by that
number.

- Set the carburetor so that the engine delivers satisfactory power Slow jet: # 50 x 0.94 = #47
at any throttle opening. Chiclé principal: # 162 x 0.94 = # 1
- If the air-fuel mixture is too lean, the engine tends to overheat and
may seize up; on the other hand, if it is too rich, the spark plug easily 3. Find your correction factor on the Jet Needle/Air Screw chart and
gets wet, thus causing richness, the spark plug easily gets wet, thus change the jet needle clip position and air screw opening as indicated.
causing misfires. The proper strength of the mixture varies depending
on atmospheric conditions (pressure, humidity, and temperature). Example: For correction factor of 0.94, raise the needle clip one
Taking these conditions into consideration, adjust the carburetor position and turn out the air screw one extra turn.
settings properly
- Jet needle clip setting: 3rd groove from top minus 1 - 2nd groove.
- Air screw opening: 1 1/2 + 1 turn = 2 1/2 turns out.
Standard Settings

NOTE
FUEL UNLEADED LEADED For the following recommendations to be accurate, you must
use the standard settings as a base-line. Also don´t change any
Throttle valve cutaway 7 7 of the settings until you´ve determined what changes are
Slow jet 38 35 necessary. All specifications are based on the use of the
Jet needle N1EC N1ED specified fuel and oil.
Main Jet 185 160

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 ALTITUDE
T 30 20 10 Se
E 00 00 00 a
m m Le
M m (3 ve
40 (9 (6 l
P 60 40 20
E (104) 0 0
ft) 0 ft)
R ft)
A 30
T (86)
U
R 20
E (68)
(ºC)
10
(ºF) (50)

0
(32)

-10
(14) 0.86 0.88 0.90 0.92 0.94 0.96 0.98 1.00 1.02 1.04 1.06

CORRECTION FACTOR

JET NEEDLE/ AIR SCREW CHART

CORRECTION
FACTORS 1,06 or ABOVE 1,06 - 1,02 1,02 - 0,98 0,98 - 0,94 0,94 or BELOW

JET NEEDLE LOWER CLIP SAME SAME SAME RAISE CLIP ONE
SETTING ONE POSITION POSITION

AIR SCREW ONE TURN IN 1/2 TURN IN SAME 1/2 TURN OUT ONE TURN OUT
OPENING POSITION

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 2. SUSPENSION TUNING Front fork

No area of machine adjustment is more critical than proper suspension The fork oil level in the fork tube is adjustable. A change in the fork
tuning. An improperly tuned suspension will keep even the best rider oil level will not affect the spring force much at the top of fork travel,
from attaining the full benefit of his machine´s ability. Match the but it will have a great effect at the bottom:
suspension to the rider and the course conditions. - When the oil level is raised:
The air spring effect becomes more progressive, and the front fork
- If the machine is new, break-in the suspension with at least one action feels ¨harder¨in the later stage of travel, near the bottom.
hour of riding before making any setting evaluations or changes.
- When the oil level is lowered:
- The three major factors which must be considered in suspension The aire spring is less progressive, and the front fork does not
tuning are Rider weight, rider hability, and track conditions. Additional become as ¨hard¨ in the later stage of travel.
influences includE the rider´s style and positioning on the machine.
- Changing the fork oil level works effectively at the end of fork travel.
- If you have a problem, test by changing your riding posture or If fork bottoming is experienced, raise fork fork oil level in 10 mm
position so that the cause of the problem can be deduced. increments. This will change the secondary spring rate.

- It is a wise practice to adjust suspension settings to suit the rider´s

strong points. If you are fast through the corners, adjust the suspension Oil level adjustment
to allow fast cornering.
Adjust the front fork oil level (see the Oil Level Adjustment of the
- Make setting changes in small increments; a little bit goes a long Front Fork section in the Maintenance and adjustment chapter).
way, and it is very easy to overadjust a setting.

- The front and rear suspension should be balanced; when one is

changed, the other might need to be changed similarly. Increase level

Standard oil
- When evaluating suspension performance the rider must make level
every effort to ride consistently and recognize the effects of his input; Decrease level
such things as changes in rider position and increasing fatigue may
lead to incorrect judgments about neceessary setting adjustments.
Weight
- When the proper settings have been determined for a particular
track, they should be written down for reference when returning to
that track. Later stage
Fork stroke of travel

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 Troubleshooting Improper Settings 5. Rebound or compression damping adjusting incorrect.

Listed below are some symptoms of improper suspension settings

and the most likely means of correcting them. Symptoms of the rear shok:
Too hard
The proper settings can be achieved by applying the information
in this chapter in a scientific, methodical manner; this does not mean, - The suspension is too stiff
however, that you must be a scientist or trained technician to succeed. 1. Compression damping is too high.
Simply take time a think about the changes you believe necessary, 2. Spring is too hard.
check them against the symptoms and cures described here, make
the changes in small increments, and take notes on the changes Too soft
and their effects.
- On landing after a big jump, bottoming occurs (normally O.K.).
1. Spring preload is too soft or compression damping is too soft.
Simptoms of the Front Forks 2. Spring is too soft.
Too hard 3. Shock oil is worn.

- The front forks are too stiff

1. Rebound or compression damping adjustment incorrect. Determining the Proper Settings:
2. The springs are too strong.
3. Too much oil. - Standard Settings
4. Too heavy oil.
From the factory, the machine is set up for an intermediate-weight
- The front forks stiffens up the end of stroke rider possessing intermediate riding ability. Hence, if the actual rider
1. The fork oil level is too high. weight is considerably more or less than this, or if his riding experience
and ability are much greater or lesser than the intermediate made
- The front forks operate but ride is too hard to put the suspension "in the ballpark".
1. Oil too heavy.
2. Worn out fork oil. - Readjustment of the suspension

Too soft

- The fron fork dive excessively during braking and deceleration

1. Fork oil level is low. Smooth Softer spring
2. Springs are too soft. Rough Harder spring
3. Oil too light.
4. Fork oil is worn out.

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 Riding experience Front and rear compability:

Beginner Softer: spring with more rebound damping. Use this procedure to determine if the suspension is balanced
Experienced: Harder spring. reasonably well: Hold the bike upright (retract the side stand). While
standing next to the machine, lightly pull on the front brake, place
one foot on the footpeg closest to you, and push down hard. If the
Rider's weight bike maintains its level attitude as the suspension is compressed,
the spring rates are well balanced. Sit astride the bike and take a
Heavy: Harder spring. riding posture. Next check to see that the bike is in a horitzontal
Light: Softer spring. position. If one end drops noticeably more than the other, the front
and rear are not compatible and must be readjusted to achieve a
better balance.
Type of course This is one of the most effective adjustment procedures but suspension
settings will vary depending on the conditions at the track and the
- Many corners: rider´s preferences.
Lower the front end slightly (increase the fork tube height 5mm).This
quickes steering and turning ability.
Front end seaching during down hill or during acceleration out
- Fast course with many jumps: of corner:
Raise the fornt end slightly (decrease the front tube height 5 mm). Front fork is too soft.

- Deep whoops, or sandy ground: 1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping.
Raise the front end slightly to gain stability. 2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.
3. Use alternate harder sping, or increase spring preload.
fter making such preliminary adjustments, begin the actual on-track
testing and evaluation. Front end ¨knifes¨or oversteers in turns: (front end tends to
turn inward):
Front fork is too soft.
CAUTION
1- Always make changes in small increments. 1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping.
2-Make sure the rider is consistent in this evaluation of improper 2. Increase the oil level 10 mm.
suspension performance.
3- A change in the front suspension might require a change in the Front end pushes or ¨washes out¨in turns:
rear, and vise versa. 1. Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping.
2. Release the air at the fork tubes.
3. Decrease oil level 10-20 mm.
4. Use softer spring.

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 Adjustment depending on bottoming condition:(rear shock
Front fork doesn´t respond to small bumps in sweeping turns: absorber).
- Front Fork is too hard:
1. Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping. - Bottoms at low speed.
2. Decrease oil level 10 mm. - Increase spring preload until maximum preload is achieved.
3. Use softer duty spring. - Bottom after successive 3 or 4 successive jumps.
- Decrease rebound damping.
Rear end ¨kicks¨when braking over bumps:
The shock probably has too little rebound damping. NOTE
- Increase the rebound damping. The rear shock on this machine may mislead some riders.

Rear tire won´t "hook up" out of corners:

(A lack of traction coming out of turns) a) The rear shock bottoms when the spring and damping are
- The shock may be too stiff: overcome by the total weight of the machine and rider (due to full
1. Decrease the rear shock spring preload. stroke).
2. Decrease the compression damping.
3. Use softer spring (In case of a lightweight rider). b) A bottoming sensation (even through the machine is not bottoming)
may actually be the inability of rider and machine weight to overcome
an overly stiff spring or excessive damping.
Front and rear of the bike bottom off high speed jumps:
(If harsh bottoming occurs once or twice per lap of the race) Observe the rear end off jumps; if it doesn´t approach bottoming,
. Front and rear suspension system are too soft. try lowering the sping preload and damping.

1. Delantera: Increase oil lever and/or use harder spring.

2. Rear: Increase spring preload and/or increase compression Gearing
damping or use harder spring.
Preconditions:

NOTE Course condition Rear sprocket

After any adjustment, check front and rear compatibility.
Fast course Small
Many courves or hills Large
Sandy or soft groud

- Si la parte recta de la "crono" es larga, el desarrollo puede alargarse

por lo tanto la velocidad aumenta.

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 - If the straight portion of a course is longer, the secondary reduction 3. The engine works hardest in muddy conditions and the radiator
ratio should be reduced so that the machine speed can be increased. can become clogged with mud. Take care not to overheat the engine
in these conditions. The engine also works very hard when ridden
- When the course has many corners or uphills or is wet, the in deep sand.
secondary reduction rario should be increased so that gear shifting
is possible with smooth acceleration. 4. In muddy or sandy conditions adjust the chain looser than in other
conditions as the chain and sprockets will pack with mud/sand and
- Actually, the speed must be changed depending on the ground reduce chain slack.
condition on the day of race and therefore, be sure to run through
the racing circuit prior to a race and set the machine suitable for the 5. Check chain and sprocket wear frequently when riding in mud or
entire course. sand since wear is increased in these conditions.

- If the straight portion of a course on which the machine can be run 6. In dusty conditions as the air cleaner collects dust, the engine
at maximum speed is longer, the machine should be set so that the runs richer. Therefore it may be advisable to run slightly leaner jetting
maximum machine speed can be developed toward the end of the (main jet) in very dusty conditions.
straight course, but care should be taken not to over-rev the engine.

- It is difficult to set the machine to be best suited for all portions of SPARE PARTS
the circuit. Therefore, determine which circuit portions will have the Look at part list.
greatest effect on lap time. Set the machine for these portions.
Confirm your settings by recording lap times after each change. In
this way the machine will deliver best performance for the entire
circuit.

Special Care According to Track Conditions.

1. In dry, dusty conditions (such as volcanic ash or fine powdery

dust) special care must be given to keep the air cleaner element
clean.

2. When riding on wet heavy clay the mud adheres to the tires and
other parts of the vehicle. The mud can add significantly to the weight
of the vehicle and therefore reduce performance. Take care to remove
built-up mud from the tires and chassis after each ride, before drying
occurs.

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 PREPARATION FOR COMPETITION (2). After first race maintenance:

1. Air cleaner element

(1). Check: 2. Drive chain slack
3. Rear sprocket nuts
1. Front axle shaft and nut, or axle clamp nut tightness 4. Sprockets
2. Front fork clamp bolt tightness 5. Front and rear tire air pressure
3. Handlebar clamp bolt tightness 6. Front and rear axle shaft nuts
4. Throttle grip screw tightness 7. Pivot shaft nut
5. Throttle grip operation 8. Muffler, silencer bolts or nuts
6. Front and rear brake hose installation 9. Front, rear fender mounting bolts or nuts
7. Front and rear brake fluid level 10. Fuel tank, seat mounting bolts or nuts
8. Front and rear brake disc and caliper installation 11. Front and rear brakes
9. Front and rear brake function 12. Steering play
10. Fuel tank installation 13. Fuel tank fill
11. Shift pedal bolt tightness 14. Coolant level check
12. Engine mounting bolt tightness
13. Engine sprocket installation (3) Maintenance notice for after riding on dusty course:
14. Brake pedal bolt tightness
15. Transmission oil level If dirt or dust gets through into the engine, the crankshaft big end
16. Carburetor clamp screw tightness will wear excessively. After riding, inspect the crankshaft big end. If
17. Carburetor top cap tightness the crankshaft big end is worn past the service limit, replace the
18. Linkage tie rod mounting bolt tightness crankshaft big end with a new one.
19. Linkage rocker arm mounting bolt tightness
20. Rear shock absorber bolt tightness (4) Maintenance notice for after riding in rain on muddy course:
21. Swing arm pivot shaft nut tightness
22. Rear axle shaft nut tightness 1. Apply grease to swing arm pivot and rear suspension system
23. Rear sprocket bolts or nuts tightness 2. Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket wear
24. Rear brake pedal operation 3. Clean the air cleaner element
25. Seat installation 4. Check the cylinder and crankshaft big end bearing
26. Front and rear wheel sproke tightness 5. Grease the throttle grip and cable
27. Front and rear tire air pressure
28. Drive chain slack
29. Coolant level

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 STORAGE GAS GAS SPEEDO INSTRUCTIONS

When the motorcycle is to be stored for any lenght of time, it should The top button is the reset button.
be prepared for storage as follows: The bottom button is the mode button.
- Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly.
- Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil shut it off
and drain the transmission oil.
- Put in fresh trransmission oil.
- Empty the fuel from the fuel tank, and empty the carburetor float Reset
bowl. (If left in for a long time, the fuel will deteriorate).
- Remove the spark plug and put several drops of SAE 30 oil into Mode
00:00
the cylinder. Kick the engine over slowly a few times to coat the
cylinder wall with oil, and install the plug.
- Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables.
- Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid
getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes.
- Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe to prevent moisture from The initial display is the clock.(time) if you press mode (btm. button)
entering. the display goes:
- Set the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both wheels are
raised off the ground. (If this cannot be done, put boards under the 1. Speedometer.
front and rear wheels to keep dampness away from the tire rubber). 2. Speed (Km or miles).
- Put a cover over the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt from collecting 3. Total distance in kmh or miles (this has a memory even if battery
on it. disconnected).
4. Trip distance.

To put the motorcycle back into use after storage.

- Remove plastic bag from exhaust.

- Make sure the spark plug is tight. 00:00 0
- Fill the fuel tank with fuel.
- Check all the points listed in the Daily Pre-ride Inspection Section.
- Perform the General lubrication procedure.

Speedometer Speed

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 met -- for km/h
mil --- for mp/h

0000 0.0 - The white plastic block connector on the speedo is for the display
backlight.
- The red wire is positve.
- The black wire is negative.
Total distance Trip distance

- Warning; your speedo is set for the diameter of your front wheel
To change the time:
enduro 21"
- Press mode until time display is shown. supermoto 17"
- Press mode again keeping the button pressed the hour will display
only add the hours by pressing the reset (top) button.
- Press mode again to adjust the minutes in the same way. If you get the display to read "a 00" then you are in the rolling radius
- Press mode again and the time is now set. changing mode. you can "trim" the speed to run fast or slow.
It ranges from "a-25" to "a 25".
(when you have set the time the seconds automatically start from
zero )
NOTE
Standard setting is "a 00", we recommend you keep it at that.
Trip distance:

- From time display press mode 3 times. (l- 0) to zero the trip , keep
the reset button pressed until it zeros.

To change to kilometers per hour or miles per hour:

- Disconnect the battery. (the total distance will be saved).

- Re-connect the battery whilst holding down either button and it will
read either;

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 TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE
This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the
troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.

TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

1 Engine doesn't crank - Crankshaft seizure. - Go to specialized garage.

- Cylinder-piston, connecting rod big end - Go to specialized garage.
seizure.
- Transmission set seizure. - Go to specialized garage.
- The motorcycle has been out of operation - Is recomended to drain the old fuel from the float chamber.
for a longer period of time. Therefore old
fuel has accumulated in the float chamber.
- Scooty or wet spark plug. - Clean and dry the spark plug or exchange it, respectively.
- Flooded engine. - In order to "pump the engine free", pull de starter pedal 5
or 10 times. Then, start the engine as described above. If
the engine fails to start, unscrew the spark pulug and dry it.
- Fuel/ air mixture incorrect. - Clean tank cap air vent. Check by-pass throttle body. Check
the air filter.

2 Engine start but stops few - Incorrect air supply. - Close the starter. Clean fuel tank air vent. Check the air
seconds ago. filter.
- There isn't fuel. - Fill up fuel tank.

3 Engine gets to hot - Insufficient cooling liquid. - Full up cooling liquid, check system refrigeration.
- Radiators very dirty. - Clean radiators.

4 Engine flooded - Spark plug dirty, or maladjusted. - Check spark plug, clean, adjust or replace.
- Spark plug cap or high tension wiring - Check spark plug cap, if it's damaged, change it.
trouble.
- Wiring shorted or open. - Change wiring.

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 TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

4 Engine flooded - Water in fuel. - Empty fuel tank and fill up with new one.

5 Engine does not rev high, will - Fuel supply partically interrupted or - Clean and check fuel system as well as carburettor.
not reach full power carburettor dirty.
- Dirty air filter. - Clean and change the air filter.
- Hose of engine ventilation is bent. - Replace non-buckling ventilation hose.
- Main jet clogged. - Dismount carburetor and clean main jet.
- Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged. - Change crankshaft bearing.
- Clutch slipping. - Check clutch. Go to specialized garage.

6 Abnormal engine noise - Starter problem. - Go to specialized garage.

- Overheating. - Look number 5.

7 Spark knock - Carbon in combustion chamber. - Clean combustion chamber.

- Incorrect or poor gasoline. - Empty, and fill up with good gasoline.
- Incorrect spark plug. - Cambiar bujía por otra nueva o adecuada.
- Connecting rod exhaust system damage. - Check if the exhaust system is damaged. Connecting rods
have to be perfect, if they aren't, change them.

8 Exhaust pipe get out white - Cylinder head gasket leaking. - Change cylinder head gasket leaking. Go to specialized
smoke. garage.
- Gas valve passage maladjusted. - Adjust gas valve passage. Go to specialized garage.

9 Exhaust pipe get out brown - Air filter is bloked. - Clean or change the air filter. Go to specialized garage.
smoke. - Main jet higher. - Check main jet. Go to specialized garage.

10 Clutch not disengaging properly - No clutch lever play maladjusted. - Go to specialized garage.
- Friction plate worn or warped. - Change friction plate.
- Steel plate worn or warped. - Go to specialized garage.
- Gear lever damaged. - Change gear lever.
- Clutch spring broken or weak. - Check or change clutch spring.
- Clutch release mechanism trouble. - Check clutch release mechanism.

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 TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

10 Clutch not disengaging properly - Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn. - Change clutch hub.

11 Jumps out of gear - Shift fork worn, gear worn. - Change it and go to specialized garage.
- Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn. - Change it and go to specialized garage.
- Shift drum groove worn. - Change it and go to specialized garage.
- Gear positioning. - Change it and go to specialized garage.
- Lever spring weak or broken. - Change it and go to specialized garage.

12 Clutch slipping - No clutch lever play, maladjusted. - Go to specialized garage.

- Friction plate worn or warped. - Change friction plate and go to specialized garage.
- Steel plate worn or warped. - Change steel plate.
- Clutch spring broken or weak. - Check or change clutch spring.
- Clutch disc unevenly worn. - Change clutch disc. Go to specialized garage.

13 Stability Unsatisfactory - Control cable routing incorrect. - Move control cable or unscrew.
- Wiring routing incorrect. - Unscrew wiring routing.
- Steering stem locknut too tight. - Change steering stem locknut.
- Steering stem bent. - Change and go to specialized garage.

14 Shock absorption too hard - Front fork oil excessive. - Empty and review level oil.
- Front fork oil viscosity too hight. - Empty oil from fork and go to specialized garage.
- Front fork leg bent. - Change it. Go to a specialized garage.
- Tire air pressure too high. - Check tire air pressure.
- Rear shock absorber maladjusted. - Check rear shock absorber.

15 Shock absorption too soft - Front fork oil insufficient and/ or leaking. - Fill up until correct level.
- Front fork oil viscosity too low. - Empty oil from fork and fill up with suitable viscosity oil.
- Front fork leg bent. - Change front fork. Go to specialized garage.
- Tire air pressure too small. - Check tire air pressure.
- Rear shock absorber maladjusted. - Check rear shock absorber.

16 Abnormal train noise - Drive chain adjusted improperly. - Adjust chain.

- Chain worn. - Change chain and rear engine sprocket.

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 TROUBLE CAUSE REMEDY

16 Abnormal train noise - Rear and/or engine sprocket worn. - Change it.
- Chain lubrication insufficient. - Lubricate with apropiate chain oil.
- Rear wheel misaligned. - Align rear wheel.
- Oil front fork insufficient or too thin. - Add oil until correct level.
- Spring weak or broken. - Change spring.
- Disc brake worn. - Change disc brake.
- Pad installed incorrectly or surface glazed. - Replace pad or change.
- Cylinder damaged. - Change cylinder damaged.
- Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly - Go to specialized garage.
mounted or tightened.

17 Handlebar shakes or excessivery - Tire, swing arm sleeve or needle bearin - Change it for new pieces.
vibrates damaged.
- Rim warped. - Centre rim.
- Wheel misaligned. - Check wheel rim pressure. Adjust if it is necessary.
- Front/ rear axle runout excessive. - Check rear/ front axle steering. Adjust if it's necessary.

18 Motorcycle pull to one side - Frame bent. - Go to specialized garage.

- Steering maladjusted. - Adjust steering. Go to specialized garage.
- Steering stem bent. - Change steering stem and go to specialized garage.
- Front fork bent. - Change front fork.
- Wheel misalignment. - Align wheel.

19 Brakes don't hold - Pad or disc worn. - Change disc.

- Brake fluid leak. - Check and replace.
- Brake fluid deteriorated. - Empty brake fluid and replace with new recomended one.
- Piston pump damaged. - Replace pump piston.
- Brake maladjustment. - Adjust brake.

20 Las lámparas se funden - El regulador de la tensión están - Dismount seat and fuel tank and chec connections, have
defectuosos. voltage regulator checked and fuse of box fuses.

21 El sistema de iluminación no - El fusible del relé de iluminación está - Dismount seat and fuse box cover and replace fuse.
funciona fundido.

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 WARRANTY REGULATIONS a) The purchaser has failed to subject the vehicle to any of the
inspections and/or maintenance work prescribed in the operating
Manufacturer's warranty manual or has exceeded the date stated for such inspections or
maintenance work, also excluding from the warranty defects that
The Company GAS GAS Motos S.A. hereby warrants to the final appeared before the prescribed date of such inspection or
purchaser of a vehicle manufactured by GG that both materials and maintenance work performed not at all or performed only after the
workmanship are free from defects according to the corresponding prescribed date.
state of the art. Accordingly, GG hereby warrants to the final purchaser b) Inspection, maintenance work and repair work on the vehicle has
(hereinafter referred to as the «purchaser»), subject to the conditions been performed by a party neither recognized nor licensed by GG;
stated below, to remove any defects in material or production detected c) Any maintenance or repair work has been performed on the
in a new motorcycle free of charge within the agreed period of vehicle in violation of the technical requirements, specifications and
warranty without any limitation whatsoever in terms of the number instructions indicated by the manufacturer.
of kilometres travelled or the number of operating hours. d) Spare parts not released for use by GG have been used to perform
maintenance or repair work on the vehicle, or if and to the extent
Period of warranty that the vehicle has been operated using other fuels, lubricants or
operating fluids (including but not limited to cleaning agents) than
The period of warranty shall commence on the day of delivery of the those expressly stated in the specifications in the operating manual;
vehicle by a licensed GG dealer to the purchaser, or in the case of e) The vehicle has been altered or modified in any way or equipped
demonstration models, on the date on which the vehicle is put into with other components than those expressly released by GG as
operation for the first time. admissible vehicle components.
f) The vehicle has been stored or transported in a way that does
The length of the warranty period depends on the type of vehicle not meet the corresponding technical requirements.
and is stated in the document of delivery. g) The vehicle has been used for competitions, races or attempts
at any record whatsoever.
Any defects detected in the product shall be brought to the attention
of a licensed GG dealer within the warranty period. If the last day
of the warranty period is a Sunday or public holiday, the warranty Exclusion from warranty
period shall be extended in such a way that the last day of the
warranty period is the next working day following the respective The following items shall be excluded from warranty:
Sunday or public holiday. Warranty claims shall be excluded for any
defects not brought to the attention of a licensed GG dealer by the
end of the warranty period. a) wear and tear parts including, without limitation, sparks plugs,
batteries, fuel filters, oil filter elements, driving chains, engine
Obligation of the purchaser sprockets, rear sprockets, air filters, brake discs, brake pads, clutch
discs, lamps, fuses, carbon brushes, footrest rubbers, tires, tubes,
GG shall be entitled to refuse to accept warranty claims if and to the cables and other rubber components.
extent that:

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 b) Lubricants (e.g. oil, grease, etc.) and operating fluids (e.g. battery 3.- If it turns out that any defect cannot be removed, the warranty
fluid, cooling liquid, etc.). shall be entitled to demand termination of the contract (payment of
c) Inspection, adjusting and other periodical maintenance work as a compensation) or partial reimbursement for the purchasing price
well as all kinds of cleaning work. (discount) instead of repair of the motorcycle.
d) Damage to paint work and corrosion thereof due to external The warranty shall in no case be entitled to receive a new motorcycle
influences such as stones, salt, industrial exhaust gases and other as a substitute for the defective product.
environmental impacts or inadequate cleaning with inadequate 4.- The warranty claims of the purchaser under the contract of
products. purchase and sale concluded with the respective licensed dealer
e) Any consequential harms caused by defects as well as incidental shall not be affected by the present warranty. Neither shall the present
expenses directly or indirectly related to defects (e.g. warranty affect any additional contractual rights of the purchaser
telecommunication charges, cost of board and lodging, cost of rental under de General Business Conditions of the licensed dealer.
cars, public transport charges, cost of salvage and towing, overnight However, such additional rights can only be claimed against the
expenses, etc.) as well as other financial disadvantages (e.g. caused licensed dealer.
by loss of use of a motor vehicle, loss of earnings, loss of time, etc.). 5.- If the purchaser resells the product within the warranty period,
f) Any aesthetic or acoustic phenomena that does not significantly the terms and conditions of the present warranty shall continue to
affect the serviceable condition of the motorcycle (e.g. hidden or exist in their present scope, the right to put forward claims under the
minor blemishes, normal operating noise or vibrations). present warranty according to the terms and conditions hereof will
g) Phenomena due to the aging of the vehicle (e.g. fading of painted be passed on to the new owner of the motorcycle.
or metal-coated surfaces).
July 2003

Miscellaneous

1.- GG shall be entitled to decide in its sole discretion whether to

repair or to replace defective parts. The ownership of parts replaced,
if any, shall pass to GG, free of any consideration whatsoever. The
licensed GG dealer entrusted wit the removal of defects shall not
be authorized to issue binding declarations on behalf of.
2.- In cases of doubt regarding the existence of a defect or if a visual
inspection or material testing is required, GG shall be entitled to
demand submission of the parts for which warranty claims are put
forward or to order an examination of the defect by a GG expert.
Any additional warranty obligations for parts replaced free of charge
or for any service performed free of charge under the present
warranty shall be excluded. The warranty components replaced
within the warranty period shall end at the date of expiry of the
warranty period agreed for the respective product.

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 RECOMIENDA EL USO DE ACEITE:

PU010438002
JULIO / JULY 2003

C/ UNICEF nº 17 · Poligon Industrial Torremirona · 17190 Salt (Girona) SPAIN · Tel: +34 902 47 62 54 Fax: +34 902 47 61 60
E-mail: officegg@gasgasmotos.es / partsgg@gasgasmotos.es · Web: www.gasgasmotos.es

Compuesta

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