ON THE WATERFRONT: CULTURE, HERITAGE AND REGENERATION OF PORT CITIES

07
IS HERITAGE
A BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY?
THE BOMBAY HERITAGE WALKS
Abha Bahl and Brinda Gaitonde Nayak Bombay Heritage Walks
ON THE WATERFRONT: CULTURE, HERITAGE AND REGENERATION OF PORT CITIES PAGE 2

With modest beginnings as a remote archipelago, Interestingly it was this group of islands Unfortunately due to lack of administrative
Mumbai has seen a meteoric rise to become the that were summarily ignored during the capability and religious intolerance it
initial trading forays of the region with was difficult for trade to flourish under
commercial capital of India. Aided primarily by its
other prominent centres such as Persia, Portuguese rule. A sad trade mainly
establishment as a major British naval base and trading Rome and China.The seven islands confined to sale of dried fish, salt and
port in the late 19th century, the city’s growth was were inhabited since the Stone Age coconuts in small quantities to neighbouring
spurred by consequential rise in commerce and but not much physical evidence of coast towns, existed at that time with
maritime trade existed during that just the rudimentary form of a port and
industrialisation. Mumbai, today, is a collage of Colonial
period.This slumber continued for fortification established. However, the
images entwined with contemporary advance – a reality several centuries while neighbouring activity generated enough interest to
that reflects the multiple conflicts of space, needs and ports traded with western countries attract other European colonists.The 16th
accessibility faced by its burgeoning populace (Fig.1). from several centuries before the century marked the growth of monopolistic
Christian era. It only rose briefly from trading organisations formed under
It is a city, clearly, with two conflicting and diametrically
this deep inertia in the 13th century Royal Charters and thus the British East
opposite worlds thrown in together. Although gifted post-occupation by a local king and India Company (EIC) made its first
with a natural harbour it was the industry and toil of slid back to its inert state when relegated appearance on the stage of history.
the people that evolved it from a straggling group of to being a mere lookout post by the
Sultans of Gujarat who occupied the Initially the EIC struggled to cope with
islands into the megalopolis it now is.
region in the 14th century. The rise the duties vested in it plagued with
of the Islamic Empire, with sacking natural misfortunes and the lack of a
of Constantinople in 1453, created a viable exchange for trading in spices.
barrier in the overland route (between It resolved this issue by undertaking selling
Europe and Asia) resolved with the of Indian textiles in the East Indies and
discovery of the all sea route to India to use the profit to obtain spices, but
by Vasco da Gama in 1498.This led to faced opposition from the reigning
the advent of the Portuguese into the Sultans of Gujarat, guided by the
region, who took over the Islands from Portuguese. It led to the invasion
the Sultans in 1534 (Fig.2). and eventual defeat of the Portuguese
fleet in 1612. But still Bombay continued
in its relatively inert state.
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Fig.1: The architecture of Mumbai

reflects these very conflicts, when the
old clashes with the new. Seen in this
photograph is the listed neo-gothic High
Court building and the Art Deco cinema
in the foreground, while towering behind is
the multi-storey Stock Exchange building.
The dockyard is visible in the distance.
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)

Fig.2: Map of the 7 Islands of Bombay.

This was the topography of the city
before it was welded through a series of
reclamations into the shape that it now is.

It was ultimately a marriage, quite literally,

between the British and the Portuguese
that led to the handing over of the islands
to the EIC.Thus Bombay passed as dowry
through a marriage treaty signed when
Princess Catharine of Braganza, sister
of the King of Portugal, married Prince
Charles II of England. It was then leased
to the EIC as a loan in 1668. Once the
handing over of Bombay was complete,
preparations began to set it up as an
international trading port. Construction
commenced with building of a Custom
House, a warehouse and a mole capable
of berthing small ships. In 1715 EIC

Fig.1 Fig.2
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directors decided to make Bombay It is a recognised fact that ports are

the first port in India and the Company’s gateway cities, the emporia of the region
ships sailing from Madras and Bengal and a result of this is reflected in their
were advised to call at Bombay. development and rise. Such was the
case even for Bombay that saw the
With the integration of India under import of several architectural styles.
the direct rule of the British Crown in Foreign terms such as “neo-classical”
1858, Bombay too underwent massive and “Victorian Gothic” became
structuring.The Bombay Port Trust was common place and blended well
formed in 1873, which was handicapped with vernacular detailing, leading
from the beginning by lack of funds. to an interesting confluence (Figs.3 & 4).
Their only property consisted of a
sprinkling of lighthouses, 2 light vessels,
Fig.3: Amongst many additions to
9 pilot boats, 3 signal stations and a
Fig.3 the skyline of Bombay were the ones
boat shed. Further impetus to the
along the waterfront. Like most international
development of the city was provided
ports, such as Liverpool and New York, it
due to the following factors:
was this view from the sea that revealed
1) The 1869 opening of Suez the city in its true sense. Seen in this
Canal – the world’s turnstile photograph is the entrance portal to
the city or the Gateway of India with
2) The 1861 to 1865 outbreak of
the Taj Mahal Hotel in the background.
American Civil war that led to a
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)
boom in cotton trade from Bombay,
which saw the establishment of
several mills.With the founding of Fig.4: Architectural imports in
mills was ushered Bombay’s change the form of Art Deco also made its
from a fishing village to a military appearance in Bombay, which was then
outpost to a major trading centre. modified to suit local needs.This style
gained so much popularity that the
3) Establishment of railway
city has the 2nd largest collection
communication in 1853.
of Art Deco buildings in the world.
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)

Fig.4
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The Age of Steam in the late 19th century A heightened consciousness about
Fig.5: Present map of the city
signalled the decline of the Indian ship their heritage environs resulted in the
with an overlay of the older 7 Islands.
building industry. Saturation of the formulation of many welfare associations.
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)
Mumbai Port also led to the shifting of Kala Ghoda Association (KGA) was one
operations to a sister port developed such non-profit organisation formed to
across the harbour. This released a huge In 1990, the State Government of physically upgrade public spaces and
chunk of port land which was now Maharashtra introduced, what was buildings in the historic art district.
available for an already congested hailed as ‘path-breaking’ draft regulations They also initiated an Arts Festival in
city. Currently the Mumbai Port Trust (under Mumbai’s Development 1999, focussed primarily to showcase
owns over 1,800 acres of land, which Control Rules) intended to protect one of the most beautiful Victorian
includes 28 kilometres of waterfront over 600 heritage sites.1 The city’s promenades in the city and to display
area. Realising the potential of this primary Planning Authority in 1992, local talent with this setting as the
property, the State Government set constituted an Advisory Committee backdrop. It was during this first festival
up a task force to examine the best for Urban Heritage Conservation to in February 1999 2 that we volunteered
possible distribution and landuse oversee all development proposals to lead open-to-public heritage walks.
of this area. Studies suggested that relating to the listed sites. In 1995, In addition to this we were already
de-industrialisation of the city and the Heritage Regulations for Greater Fig.5
working on several urban improvement
stoppage of port-related activities call Mumbai were formally gazetted as and preservation projects.The walks
for changes in the use of the Port Trust law – the first of its kind in India. drew large crowds comprising locals
land. The Port Trust, however, disputes Periodic seminars by Non-Government as well as visitors. It was then that we
this claim and contends that it plans to organisations (NGOs) and pressure realised that a public movement such as
undertake expansion of port activities, groups provided a useful forum for this was long overdue in Mumbai and a
dismissing the decline of Mumbai Port. public discussions and interaction with potential business opportunity for us as
Whether on the decline or not, Mumbai’s decision-makers on heritage and planning well.There was much public enthusiasm
trading days were far from over and it issues. Sustained focus by the print and on discovering the real essence of Mumbai. Notes
re-evolved as a business hub, with the electronic media since the mid-1990s Buoyed by the overwhelmingly positive 1. Listed heritage sites include buildings,
establishment of the first Stock Exchange as well as efforts of NGOs aided a public parks, sea-fronts and precincts.
reactions from participants, we formulated
in Asia. Gradually architectural gems, renewed public awareness about the ‘THE BOMBAY HERITAGE WALKS 2. Organised for the Kala Ghoda Association,
developed as a result of trading and city’s built heritage and the need for in alliance with R. Mehrotra & S. Dwivedi
(BHW)’ group on April 18th 1999 – to coincide with the release of their book
related activities, made way for its preservation. also World Heritage Day (Fig.6). ‘FORT WALKS’ during the Arts Festival.
modern buildings (Fig.5).
ON THE WATERFRONT: CULTURE, HERITAGE AND REGENERATION OF PORT CITIES PAGE 6

In the initial years, BHW comprised Fig.6: Participants on a heritage

of a team of architects who organised walk at the historic Prince of Wales
and conducted the heritage walks (Figs.7 Museum, Mumbai (Kala Ghoda Art
& 8). People were taken on discovery Festival, February 08) (© Bombay
walks in (what were then) little known Heritage Walks)
heritage precincts all over the city.
We covered a variety of locales from a
holy Hindu pilgrimage centre to an early Fig.7: Tasks involved establishing a Walk
20th century Edwardian neo-classical Route (©Bombay Heritage Walks)
business district. It was the very first
time that citizens and visitors were
Fig.8: Components of each heritage walk
invited to explore the city’s architecture
presentation (© Bombay Heritage Walks)
and exposed to terms like ‘Bombay
Gothic,’ ‘Indo-Saracenic’ and ‘Art Deco.’ Fig.9
Beginning with the encapsulated history Prior to introducing any new route,
of Mumbai’s kaleidoscopic past, the tour we undertook meticulous site-surveys
would continue with the introduction and documentation, interviews with
of the walk route and heritage area to occupants, archival research and
be covered. Each building of historic or prearranged permissions for public
architectural merit was then pointed entry – to name a few of the many
out en route, while highlighting any tasks. Media support meant free
special cultural or social anecdotes. listings for BHW in leading dailies and
Archival images were also part of the inexpensive tours (with discounts for
tour. Architectural styles, construction students) translated into increasing Fig.6 Fig.7

materials and methods, planning elements, popularity and enthusiastic community

ornamental details as well as any participation. For the first time ever in
conservation efforts were explained to Mumbai, public entry was permitted
the participants.Walkers were encouraged into many otherwise off-limits
to share their views as well and keepsake Government-controlled heritage
brochures were given to each participant. properties like the administrative wing
of the Victoria Terminus and the 1800s
Gothic-style State Police Headquarters.
Fig.8
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To encourage public participation, Guide etc. and we were associated with

BHW STATISTICS FOR 2006-07
private homeowners in residential several travel corporations. With Mumbai’s
enclaves proudly opened up their growing status as a ‘World City’ and TOTAL NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS = 1173 COUNTRY-WISE BREAK-UP
heritage homes. Mumbai residents premier business plus travel destination, (includes private visitor s & corporate guests)

were finally waking up to the fact we were flooded with requests for
Students 10% U.K. 27%
their city had so much history and walking tours by international visitors,
Private Visitors 14%
architecture to be proud of! (Fig.9). on pleasure and work trips (Fig.10),
and even student groups on scholastic
sojourns. Knowledgeable travellers
Fig.9: Participants on a heritage
pointed out that they chose BHW Corporate Guests 5%
walk in Khotachiwadi, a vernacular U.S.A. 55%
walking tours, as an exhaustive Mumbai Mumbai Residents 71%
Portuguese influence historic district
experience was not possible by merely
in Mumbai (October 07)
traversing the city in a comfortable car
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)
or by leafing through guidebooks.
Others 18%
(Australia, France , Italy,
BHW allied with a number of organisations Greece , Singapore,
New Caledonia)
to arrange unique free-of-cost heritage Notes
walks – Dockyard Walks with the Indian 3. Among the several private tours that have BHW STATISTICS FOR 2006-07
Navy, a Freedom Trail in association with been specially organised is one for Chelsea
Clinton and her group (March 2000). TOTAL NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS = 117 COUNTRY-WISE BREAK-UP
the Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sanghralaya Similar tours have been conducted by BHW (includes private visitor s & corporate guests)
(Gandhi Museum & Research Centre). for visiting professors and scholars like William
In 2004, we were requested by the Dalrymple, business delegations like Leaders’ Students 10%
Quest (UK), staff from various embassies etc. Private Visitors 14%
Asiatic Society of Mumbai to train student Special heritage tours have also been conducted U.S.A. 25%
U.K. 12%
volunteers to conduct heritage walks as as part of events like the Kala Ghoda Art Fest
part of their Bi-Centennial Celebrations (1999 to 2009), as well as for conferences Corporate Guests 21%
organised by institutions such as the Urban
which were attended by the then Design Research Institute, Asiatic Society of India 13%
President of India, Dr. Abdul Kalam. Mumbai, International Association of Law Singapore 11%
Librarians (November 2007),Young Presidents’
Organisation (YPO Meet, Mumbai Jan 2008),
Our organisation was regularly featured among others. Heritage tours have been
by international travel writers, journalists organised by BHW for guests/delegations Mumbai Residents 62% Germany%
of corporates & institutions such as HSBC, Others 34%
in print and web media including various (Australia, France , Italy,
Bank of America, Deutsche Bank, Citibank,
leading guidebooks like the Lonely Planet, Jindal Steel, GlaxoSmithKline,Tata Management Greece , Singapore,
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide, Frommers Trainee Centre (Pune, India), L’Oreal etc. New Caledonia)

Fig.10
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Fig.10: BHW Statistics 2006-07 & Since 2005, the BHW group has grown
2007-08 (© Bombay Heritage Walks) beyond the original team of architects.
BHW now has a team of talented,
young presenters who lead the walking
Over the years, BHW has organised tours. Their backgrounds range from
numerous open-to-public walks and architecture, archaeology, ancient Indian
heritage-awareness workshops for culture, art history, literature and the
students. Specialised private tours fine arts.We strive to make each walk
have also been conducted including memorable and maintain a high quality
those for visiting dignitaries, consular in the presentation (Fig.13).
guests and corporate heads from all
over the world.3 BHW also regularly
Fig.13: BHW Team
contributes to public heritage-education
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)
in the form of media articles, lectures,
Fig.11 Fig.12 participation in panel discussions etc
(Figs. 11 & 12). Through the past decade, the BHW
team has tried to create a consciousness
and sensitivity towards the Mumbai’s
Fig.11: BHW Co-founders Brinda
rich architectural legacy and to offer
Gaitonde & Abha Bahl with Chelsea
interesting historical and cultural insights
Clinton outside the Keneseth Eliyahoo
into the city. We aim to carry this
Synagogue, Mumbai (March 2000)
forward in addition to launching other
(© Bombay Heritage Walks)
related programs like public exhibitions,
lecture series and possibly setting up a
Fig.12: Students on a heritage walk “Heritage Helpline.” As architects, we
in the Kala Ghoda area (August 2006) have always considered this effort as
(©Bombay Heritage Walks) an extension of our profession and
something we owe to the city that
we have lived and worked in.

Fig.13
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