Introduction Routes and Walking Tours

A City for the 21st Century 1. Ancient and Imperial Rome

2. Via del Corso from Piazza del Campidoglio to Piazza del
History Popolo
Important Dates and Events 3. From Piazza di Spagna to the Quirinale
4. The Historic City Centre
Living Culture 5. Trastevere
Italian Cinema 6. Along the Esquilino from Termini Station to San Giovanni in
Art in Rome Laterano
The Eternal City 7. The Vatican
8. Via Veneto and Villa Borghese
City Beats 9. Other interesting sites in Rome:
The Many Faces of Rome TERMAS CARACALLA
Italian Cuisine VIA APPIA ANTICA
TESTACCIO
The Roman Gay Scene
EUR

Practical Guide Book

How to get here, How to get around, Useful advice, Where to sleep,
Where to eat, Nightlife, Shopping, Activities for children

Texts: Merche Gallego

Photos: Lluis Trillo
Translation: Aisha Prigann
 History

THE FOUNDING OF ROME

over the course of history. This is the tale of med criminals into the city's fold with the unin-
When it comes to the origins of Rome, the line Romulus and Remus, first featured in Titus tended and unfortunate side-effect of creating a
between historical fact and mythical tale blurs, Livius' (also known as Livy) monumental disproportionately high male population. In
leaving a trail of legends that inextricably link History of Rome. Written during the 1st century order to restore the gender balance and guaran-
the two. Archaeological findings indicate that B.C., Livius' historical account numbers 142 tee the survival and continuation of the young
Etruscan and Latin settlements were volumes and includes the tale of the twins city, Romulus went in search of women. This
amongst the earliest on the Palatine Hill, which Romulus and Remus, the mythical founders of led to the famous episode known as The Rape
would later become the chosen site for the new the eternal city. The twin boys were the sons of of the Sabine Women. The Romans organised
city of Rome. Because the beginnings of Rome Princess Rhea Silvia and Mars, the god of war. a series of games and celebrations to which
are shrouded in layers of legends, it is difficult Rhea Silvia was a vestal virgin and thus sworn they invited the neighbouring Sabine village.
to ascertain the true historical events. to chastity. Her uncle Amulius, keen that she However, the event was nothing more than a
Nonetheless, historians have come to accept should not bear any offspring that might overth- smokescreen to veil their true intentions -
that the city was founded around the year 753 row him, had Rhea Silvia executed for breaking during the festivities the Romans abducted the
B.C. her vestal vows. The children were also senten- Sabine women.
ced to death, but the servant given the gruesome
One legend about the founding of Rome seems task couldn't bring himself to do it. Instead, he The Sabine men were outraged by the Roman
to prevail and has garnered immense popularity placed the children in a basket alongside the treachery and declared war on their neighbour.
Tiber River. The river carried them away and
washed them ashore on the Palatine Hill, where
a she-wolf came across them. She nursed the
boys until a shepherd named Faustulo took
them into his home and reared them in secret.
Years later, after defeating Remus in a struggle,
Romulus founded Rome on the Palatine Hill
and was crowned king of the newborn city.

The historical authenticity of this tale cannot be

verified, but Romans have come to embrace
this legend as their own. If asked how Rome
began, they will tell you the story of Romulus
and Remus. Romulus supposedly built the first
semblance of a city, including the earliest walls,
and invited neighbouring villages to join Rome,
thus hoping to increase the city's nascent popu-
lation. Some stories claim that he even welco-
 unit. The entire unit was led by the head of the
patrician family and run according to a set of
individually tailored codes or laws.

But the social pecking order didn't end there; it

extended into a far more detailed and complex
hierarchy. A group of gens formed a Curia, a
vast extended family that even had its own per-
sonal temple and priest. The Curiae would
meet in the so-called Assembly of the People,
where decisions regarding the development
and governing of the city would be made. A
voting process determined these decisions, but
of course only members of the patrician class
were granted this right. There was yet another,
parallel governing body - the Senate - which
was even more exclusive. It was comprised
The women, however, had already forgiven solely of the heads of the patrician families. into the future.
their new husbands and put an end to the con- Eventually the plebeians achieved a moderate
flict, thus renewing the peace between the measure of representation through the establis- Rome's bellicose glory was great indeed and
Roman and the Sabine people. The period follo- hment of the plebeian tribune. This was mostly soon began to spread beyond the confines of
wing the war was of vital importance to the a symbolic gesture to appease the socially less the Italian peninsula. Carthage was a thorn in
development of Rome as a city and began to set fortunate since the ruling class had no intention Rome's side, hampering its expansionist ambi-
the stage for what was to become one of the of upsetting its existing social order. tions. In fact, the Carthaginian general
world's largest and longest lasting empires. Hannibal served the city a severe blow during
Although the Republic was still a far cry from the Second Punic War when he crossed
our modern understanding of democracy, the Hispania, the Alps and the Apennines and inva-
Roman Laws that were ceremoniously inscri- ded northern Italy with his army of elephants.
bed on iron tablets in 450 B.C. did provide for Despite enduring a series of battles, Hannibal
several social advancements. For example, the was finally defeated by the Romans, and
laws permitted the marriage between members Carthage fell in 146 B.C.
of the patrician and plebeian classes, a baby-
step towards greater social integration. This As Roman power extended far beyond its bor-
was also an era of great urban expansion, wit- ders, a sense of discontent began to spread in
nessing the construction of new buildings, tem- the city, a palpable tension that the republican
ples and forums (the bustling centres of social government couldn't seem to suppress. At this
and commercial life in Ancient Rome) as well point, the government was organised in a struc-
as aqueducts and roads. New social systems ture known as a triumvirate. This triangle of
developed parallel to this construction boom, power was formed by Pompey the Great,
including a legal system that bore significant Marcus Crassus and Julius Caesar and mar-
influence on its modern-day counterpart in ked the beginning of the end for the Republic.
western society.
Crassus died young, leaving Rome in the hands
Despite the social and political advances that of Pompey and Caesar. While Pompey stayed
began to distance Rome from the Greek in Rome, Caesar set out to conquer Gaul. The
influence that had accompanied the city since campaign was a significant success for Rome,
ANCIENT ROME - THE REPUBLIC AND the beginning, Rome fell short in developing but it created an irrevocable sense of distrust
THE EMPIRE an equally ambitious industrial and economic between Caesar and Pompey. Pompey was sus-
system. The city grew accustomed to military picious and jealous of Caesar's military glory,
The city of Rome prospered under monarchic victories and living off the spoils of war. And which garnered him public support and admi-
rule until Tarquinius Superbus (Tarquin the since these victories continued over time, they ration. Meanwhile, Caesar worried about the
Proud) came to power and installed a new form seemed infinite, enough to last the city long distance that his military campaigns drove bet-
of government: the Republic. Republican rule ween him and Rome. Afraid of losing his
brought about significant changes in Roman power and uneasy about Pompey's manoeu-
society, which was now divided into two clas- vrings in Rome, Caesar tried to bolster his
ses, the patricians and the plebeians. The for- position by buying political support. Caesar's
mer were the new upper class, made up of pri- fears were not unwarranted; Pompey had no
vileged professionals such as judges, intention of sharing his newly amassed power.
magistrates and priests. The vast majority of While Caesar was away, Pompey made every
the population, however, fell into the plebeian effort to block his return. Caesar, who was in
class; they tended the crops and livestock or Egypt at the time, had fallen hopelessly in love
worked in commerce. with the young queen Cleopatra, a romantic
entanglement that delayed his trip back to
The two classes functioned within a system of Rome. When he did finally return, it was in the
vassalage in which each plebeian served a company of Cleopatra and their son - and he
patrician family. The plebeians swore loyalty was met with an outburst of popular support.
to the patrician family in exchange for protec- War seemed like the only way to resolve the
tion. Every noble family, also known as gens, dispute between Caesar and Pompey; a war
had several plebeians working for them and that the latter lost in 48 B.C. Although Caesar's
therefore functioned much like an independent official title became dictator vitalicio (dictator
for life), he now ruled like a king.
CHRISTIANITY AND THE POWER OF
The Senate did not look kindly upon Caesar's THE CHURCH
rule, jealous of how he had weakened their
power. Caesar was assassinated in 44 B.C. and Christianity was regarded with suspicion and
a new triumvirate came to power. Caesar had outright hostility throughout much of the
left his fortune and title to his grand-nephew Roman Empire's reign. But although
Gaius Octavius (Octavian), and the lower and Christians faced severe persecution, the reli-
middle classes, angered by the assassination of gion didn't lose strength. In fact, the official
their popular leader, now shifted their support repression only fuelled the believers' fervour
to his heir. Octavian aligned himself with who continued to gather and practice in secret.
Lepidus, Caesar's loyal cavalry commander, Christianity became the Empire's official reli-
and Mark Antony. Octavian stayed and over- gion under Constantine the Great in 324 A.D.
but this seems to have been an act of conve-
nience rather than true belief on the emperor's
part. Constantine was known for having com-
mitted a slew of heinous crimes, including the
murder of his own mother and only converted
ble". Several pieces, such as the Ara Pacis to Christianity shortly before his death.
Augustae, are still standing today, testimony to Perhaps Christianity was the only religion that
a truly glorious chapter in the history of the offered a way to repent for the grave sins com-
Roman Empire. mitted during his lifetime or perhaps the pres-
sure of the growing religious movement was
Subsequent chapters in the long life of the simply getting too great.
Empire wavered between peaceful and prospe-
rous and decadent and destructive. Emperor The Empire's full acceptance of Christianity
Nero will be forever linked with the Empire's put an end to a gruesome chapter in Roman his-
descent into decadence. After burning the enti- tory. Christians were no longer used as human
re city to the ground, he committed suicide in torches, a common practice during Nero's
64 A.D. But the Empire had a seemingly inex- reign, nor were they (along with many others)
haustible supply of second chances; a scant subjected to a violent death in the Coliseum's
saw affairs in Rome whilst Lepidus marched five years later, the city was back on its feet infamous arena. However, the barbarian inva-
off to Africa and Mark Antony, who had fallen again, constructing the monumental Flavian sions that were pushing in from the north did
in love with Cleopatra, followed her to Egypt Amphitheatre, better known as the Coliseum. not bid well for the religion's future.
and became king of her country. The triumvira- Emperor Vespasian was responsible for buil-
te collapsed when yet another power struggle ding the giant arena as well as other landmarks, Pope Gregory I was one of the key players in
broke out, resulting in a civil war that dragged such as the Arch of Titus in the Forum. The keeping Christianity alive. He oversaw the
on until 27 B.C. when Octavian finally defea- Roman Empire reached the pinnacle of its construction of several important basilicas, and
ted his opponents. glory between the years 96 and 211 A.D. under word began to spread about the crucial role
the rule of emperors such as Hadrian, who built Rome was playing in fostering the religion.
Octavian radically changed the political clima- the famous city walls, and Marcus Aurelius, The city gradually became an important desti-
te in Rome. He changed his name to Caesar who won decisive battles along the Danube. nation for pilgrims throughout Europe. In the
Augustus and proclaimed himself emperor of year 774, Pope Leo III ensured that
what was now the Roman Empire, an act that Rome was the shining capital of the world, Charlemagne was crowned the next emperor of
ushered in a long and eagerly awaited period of unmatched in its glory. There were few hints Rome. The pontiff and the emperor saw the
peace. Peacetime brought about a climate of that augured the destruction that was slowly alliance as an opportunity that served both their
creativity and innovation that resulted in mag- closing in. The Empire's decline began in the interests. Charlemagne declared that it was his
nificent works of art and architecture. Some of year 235 A.D. when both Persian and responsibility to defend the Catholic Church
the most important historical buildings stem Germanic invasions shook Rome's founda- and the Pope's to pray for the empire and its
from this era. Upon looking onto the flouris- tions. The invasions proved that this seemingly victory in battle.
hing city, Augustus supposedly said, "I found invincible empire was vulnerable and that it
Rome a city of brick and left it a city of mar- was beginning to crumble. The years between The Papal States grew alongside the city states
250 and 312 A.D. were marked by the vicious
persecution of Christians, a practice that didn't
end until 330 A.D. This was the year that
Constantine defeated Maxentius and became
the empire's first Christian ruler. Constantine
brought an end to a long chapter in Roman his-
tory and changed the empire forever. He aban-
doned Rome and moved the empire's nexus to
Byzantium. The city was renamed
Constantinople and became the capital of a
new empire.

Rome's power crumbled, defeated as much by

internal divisions as it was by the relentless
Germanic invasions. The Roman Empire
finally collapsed in 476 A.D. and most of its
territory came under the rule of the Germanic
kings.
for a long time, but it gradually became clear year 1871 was nothing short of precarious. The
that Rome was no longer a safe place for the efforts the pontiffs had invested into adorning
pontiffs. Violent confrontations between the Rome with beautiful works of art had not
armed gangs of several Roman noble families extended into a similar dedication to social and
had become daily events, turning Rome into a urban needs. The advances that Ancient Rome
tumultuous battlefield. Pope Clement V, a had made in these areas, advances that had
French pontiff, used the unstable situation in contributed greatly to the city's prestigious
Rome as an excuse to move his court to place in history, seemed lost in oblivion. It was
Avignon in 1309, a period that came to be almost as if they had never happened. Rome
known as the Babylonian Captivity. The era limped into the 20th century, falling far short
came to an end in 1377 when Pope Gregory XI of the glory that had once made it the centre of
returned to Rome and set up residence in the the western world.
Vatican, which, at that point, was just another
Roman neighbourhood. World War I didn't affect Italy as severely as its
neighbours since the country hadn't participa-
During the 15th and 16th century, the pontiffs ted in any significant manner. However, the
decided that they had to firmly establish their post-war era witnessed the rise of Benito
power. They chose a rather unusual course - the Mussolini, a man who would forever change
complete reconstruction of the city. This the face of the Italian nation. Mussolini was the Rome and liberated the city. Mussolini's luck
brought about a truly magnificent, creative father of Italian fascism. He baptised his party had run out. Less than a year later, the fallen
period, resulting in some of the most famous under its banner, and party members were dictator was captured, shot and hung from a
pieces of Roman art known to us today. In known and recognised by their now infamous streetlamp in the centre of Milan, the very
order to kindle and maintain this flourishing of black shirts. Early on, his lack of military expe- same city where he had formed his party years
the arts, the pontiffs often resorted to less than rience seemed to endow him with an insatiable before.
"proper" means. This era brought the pontiffs ambition, which carried at its core a clear dedi-
much power and knowledge, but the wealth cation to violence and a totalitarian ideology MODERN ROME
that they were accumulating put them in a dan- that didn't tolerate dissent or criticism.
gerous spotlight. Neighbouring nations, espe- The end of World War II brought new social,
cially France and Spain, coveted the immense, In order to garner the support and trust of the political and urban changes to the Roman
papal riches and decided that Italy had to be people, Mussolini kept the king in power and cityscape, changes that were not always neces-
theirs. set out on a carefully thought-out programme sarily positive. Or at the very least, they were-
of urban improvements. The urban reforms n't equally positive for all. The 1950s ushered
The troops of Spanish king Charles V inva- were largely superficial, mostly improving in an era in which political corruption seemed
ded Rome in 1527. Pope Clement VII managed traffic and sprucing up the appearance of the to be the order of the day. This corruption spre-
to save his life by hiding out in the Castel streets. All the while he quietly but firmly ad its tentacles throughout Italy and one of its
Sant'Angelo, but the city had no choice but to strengthened his hold on Italian politics. clearest and ugliest expressions came in the
surrender to the Spanish Empire. At the same, Mussolini's ideal was a "modern" city - a dyna- form of real estate speculation. This turned
the Protestant Reformation was gaining mic Rome that looked towards the future while out to be a lucrative enterprise for many politi-
strength in European countries like Germany preserving and celebrating the symbols of its cians and bureaucrats, who lined their pockets
and England, a situation that didn't favour the ancient glory. and had few scruples when it came to gover-
papacy. Instead, the pontiffs aligned themsel- ning the city.
ves with Rome's most powerful families The pontiff at the time, Pius XI, saw a valuable
throughout the 17th century, a move that pro- ally in Mussolini, and the dictator also realised In 1976 communism had taken hold of the
duced one of the most splendid artistic periods that a close relation with the Catholic Church Italian imagination, something that wasn't loo-
in Roman history. The city once again took could be of great benefit to him. This mutual ked upon kindly by other countries, especially
centre stage for its magnificent art, a time that interest led to the signing of the famous the United States of America. Complicating
embellished Rome with baroque masterpieces Lateran Treaties in 1929, an act that officially matters further was the fact that no party could
by illustrious artists like Bernini and established the Vatican as an independent state gain a clear majority, leaving the government
Borromini. with the Pope as its highest authority. in the hands of rapidly changing and loosely
associated coalitions. This crisis did little to
Napoleon was also enticed by the treasures of World War II broke out and in 1940 Italy joi- improve the political situation in the country,
Rome. He invaded the city in 1796 and ruled ned the war, siding with Hitler's troops. This and the climate of instability even seemed to
the papal territories until 1815 when the Papal would turn out to be one of Mussolini's biggest infiltrate the Vatican. The selection in 1979 of
States were restored to power during the mistakes, a decision that brought grave conse- John Paul I as the next pontiff stirred up emo-
Congress of Vienna. For a long time following quences with it. Faced with the approaching tions and was the cause of a polemical debate.
the Congress of Vienna, the Papal States grew allied troops, the king arrested Mussolini in an It didn't help matters that the newly elected
increasingly powerful until it seemed that their attempt to calm the outraged Italian public. pontiff was found dead a few days after his
reign was all but invincible. But then, in 1871, This, however, brought about a change in nomination. The strange circumstances
they were conquered yet again. Rome was pro- Hitler's plans, who marched on Rome to free surrounding his death have left behind a host of
claimed the capital of the newly unified state of Mussolini and take control of the city. The unanswered questions that continue to cast a
Italy and the pontiffs were left with no choice move didn't go unnoticed by the Allies who shadow on the Vatican's history.
but to literally lock themselves into the Vatican returned in kind and began to bomb the city. As
like prisoners in a gilded cage. luck would have it, the bombings left most of The nomination of John Paul II returned a
Rome's magnificent art, architecture and anti- much-needed dose of prestige to the Holy See,
ITALIAN UNIFICATION UNTIL WORLD quities unharmed, thus preserving this histori- allowing the Vatican to recover its name and
WAR II cal legacy for many generations to come. The image both amongst Catholics and different
situation would have been far worse had the organisations around the world. John Paul II
The unification of Italy once again turned Germans retaliated, but Hitler desisted and not only promised to bring younger genera-
Rome into the nation's capital, but this did not Rome was spared even greater destruction. tions back into the fold of the Catholic Church
put an end to many of the problems plaguing and improve the Vatican's image but also to
the eternal city. The situation in the city in the On June 4th, 1944 allied troops entered take a closer look at the sometimes dubious
financial actions taken by the Church's leaders-
hip. John Paul II, who died in 2005 after a long Tourism continues to be Rome's bread and but-
and celebrated papacy, was embraced by the ter, bringing in most of the city's (and by exten-
public for both his approachability and his ear- sion most of Italy's) income. The city has beco-
nest dedication to his faith. Images from his me very aware of how important this sector is
funeral were broadcast around the world and to its economic well-being and has dedicated
the crowds that gathered in Rome, comprised increasingly greater efforts to improving its
of Catholics as well as people of many other infrastructure and services. Visiting Rome has
religious faiths, outnumbered all expectations. become easy and hassle-free, turning the eter-
A tall task awaits his successor, Benedict XVI, nal city into one of Europe's most welcoming
who not only needs to live up to the Polish pon- and popular tourist destinations. Every year
tiff's legacy but also garner the same trust and millions of visitors from all corners of the
deeply loyal following that John Paul II enjo- world flock to Rome to experience the city's
yed throughout his papacy. lively atmosphere and unique history.

Politically motivated crimes and the influence Nowadays Rome is a charming and pleasant
of the mafia also destabilised Italy's social and city. A few problems prevail, such as the noto-
political climate for a long time. The situation society tends to split into clearly divided rious traffic, but the city's population has
was finally addressed by a section of the judi- camps, voting for opposing political approa- grown accustomed and fond of its many visi-
ciary that decided to clean up the country's ches in a search for the kind of stabibility that tors and proud of its impressive, one-of-a-kind
deeply corrupt system with a campaign nickna- still eludes the political structure of the Italian historical and cultural heritage. Maintaining
med "clean hands". Many executives, politi- republic. the old and keeping up with the new hasn't
cians, businessmen and judges came under been an easy road. The city can't be left behind
scrutiny and were investigated and tried for Rome enjoyed a rather splendid moment in in the race towards the future and yet, how can
"dubious and unclear" dealings. The campaign 2000 when it celebrated its Jubilee Year. In it not when most of its budget is set aside to
did much to improve political transparency in addition to the millions of tourists who come to conserve the ruins of its past? But somehow
Italy as well as resolve many of the problems the eternal city every year, the Jubilee attracted Rome manages to keep everything in perspec-
that were plaguing the country. a vast number of Catholic visitors. The city got tive, creating a delicate balance between pro-
a face-lift, improved its services and public gress and conservation that is perhaps the
Throughout its years as a democracy, Rome facilities and cleaned up its image. And for a secret to its success.
has witnessed political power alternating bet- brief moment Rome once again stood in the
ween different fronts, from deeply-rooted lef- limelight, a glorious capital unlike any other in
tism to political parties on the far-right. Roman the world.
 Living Culture: Italian cinema
Living Culture: Italian cinema

Cinema has always played a signifi-

cant role in shaping Rome's identity.
Although Italian cinema has had its
shares of ups and downs, it has produ-
ced a number of directors, actors and
films that have become truly legen-
dary. Individuals like Sophia Loren
and Federico Fellini and films like La
Dolce Vita are more than just famous,
they are icons, recognised even by
those who have never seen an Italian
film. Any discussion of the Roman
film industry inevitably leads us to
Cinecittà.

Benito Mussolini was very conscious of how modern and completely new form of cinema in Wyler had a special fondness for Rome; Ben-
much power the moving image held over the collaboration with masterful actors like Hur was his second excursion to the eternal city.
public imagination. Like so many others at the Marcello Mastroianni and Anna Magnani. Their In 1953 he had come to Rome to shoot the
time, he recognised cinema as an exceptionally efforts bore fruit in unforgettable films like immensely popular film Roman Holiday with
effective tool of propaganda. In order to better Roma, Città Aperta, which caused uproar at the Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. Hollywood
use this tool, he inaugurated Cinecittà (literally time for its relentlessly realistic portrayal of wasn't the only one to benefit from the film's
cinema city) on April 27th, 1937 - a vast, impo- post-war Rome, or La Dolce Vita, which has success, which garnered good reviews and
sing complex to produce his own films, dedica- etched itself into our collective imagination with brought in a handsome financial return. It also
ted to the glorification of Italy. Cinecittà's spra- images like Anita Ekberg bathing in the Fontana made the whole world fall in love with a new
wling grounds covered more than 600,000 di Trevi. and enchanting Rome - the city of Vespas and
square metres and contained 73 buildings. Of The incredible infrastructure provided by cobblestone streets, of illuminated monuments
those buildings, 16 were complete film sets. Cinecittà also meant that Rome caught the eye and balmy nights; in other words, one of the
Streets and squares covered more than 40,000 of its illustrious North American relative, most romantic cities imaginable.
square metres, and gardens and film laboratories Hollywood. Tinseltown came to the eternal city When the Hollywood mega-productions ran out
accounted for another 35,000. to film historical epics like Quo Vadis (1951), of steam so did Cinecittà. There were other
The period just before World War II ushered in directed by Mervin LeRoy and starring Robert moments in time when Italian cinema recaptu-
an era of spectacular and unprecedented growth Taylor, Deborah Kerr and Peter Ustinov. There red some of its past splendour. Talented and gla-
in the Italian film industry. Cinecittà wasn't is no question, however, that the greatest of morous actresses like Sophia Loren and Gina
alone in fuelling the cinematic explosion - the these epics was Ben-Hur (1959), directed by Lollobrigida and actors like Vittorio Gassman
government lent generous, financial support to William Wyler and starring Charlton Heston. and Nino Manfredi brought the industry
directors who shared its fascist ideology, and The film swept the Academy Awards, taking moments of renown and recognition throughout
new laws forced North American companies out home 11 of its 12 Oscar nominations - a worthy the following years. Sergio Leone invented the
of the Italian market. Cinecittà was producing reward for one of the era's most complicated spaghetti western and served up timeless clas-
up to eighty films per year and elevated direc- productions. The film's budget reached astrono- sics like The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and A
tors, actors and actresses like Vittorio de Sica, mical proportions for its time (15 million Fistful of Dollars. Nowadays, Italian cinema
Gosco Giachetti, Isa Miranda, Doris Durante dollars), but its box office success was equally moves in more modest financial circles than its
and Elsa Merlini to stardom. ground-breaking: 40 million dollars in its first Hollywood cousin, but the industry still mana-
Following World War II, Rome and the rest of year of theatrical release. In order to better ges to create true cinematic gems from time to
Italy fell on hard times and suffered through a understand the atmosphere that surrounded the time. Memorable films like Life is Beautiful and
long period of social misery and economic film's production a few, choice anecdotes suffi- Cinema Paradiso continue to delight audiences
depression. The days of celebrating Rome's ce. The famous chariot race in Ben-Hur is pro- around the world. Stars like Monica Bellucci
glory were over; the only thing left to examine bably one of the most legendary scenes ever recall the glamour of Italy's cinematic heyday,
was the widespread and devastating poverty that captured on film. The circus where the race and some have even gone so far as to call her the
was decimating the country. But this time of takes place took one year to build, and filming new Sophia Loren. Others consider the mere
misery gave birth to one of Italy's finest and the actual scene took three months. In taking comparison an insult; for them Sophia Loren,
most original cinematic movements: neo-rea- such risks, the producers must have had some the original icon of Italian glamour and style, is
lism. Directors like Roberto Rossellini, Pier inkling that the film they were shooting was not irreplaceable, incomparable and sacred.
Paolo Pasolini and Federico Fellini shaped this just another ordinary Hollywood movie.
 Living Culture: Art in Rome
Living Culture: Art in Rome

Although the pontiffs did many ques-

tionable things during their reign in
Rome, their most lasting legacy is a
gift to art lovers everywhere. The vast
artistic heritage fostered by the pon-
tiffs is still one of Rome's most attrac-
tive features, and the architectural
boom that took place from the 15th to
the 17th century left behind the indeli-
ble image generations have come to
associate with Rome.

With all its palaces, churches and monuments, The Renaissance wasn't alone in changing arose in Rome and throughout the rest of
Rome is a veritable museum in and of itself. Rome's urban character; the Baroque period was Europe. As a consequence, financial resources
Rome has more artworks per square metre, ori- equally important in shaping the face of the city. were invested into less "artistic" endeavours,
ginating from a greater number of historical In fact, the Baroque style, characterised by ela- thus diminishing the creative output in the city.
periods than any other city in the world. On your borate ornamentation and exaggerated form, Nevertheless, Rome had already gained the
way to a museum, you already stroll past ancient was born right here in Rome. Not only is there monumental appearance and artistic legacy that
monuments like the Coliseum or encounter logic behind the development of the style, but would go on to impress generations to come.
Renaissance and baroque masterpieces in the also as to why Rome was its birthplace. During
city's many squares. Much of Rome's glorious the 17th century, the Catholic Church needed to
art is completely free, standing in the midst of bolster its image. Faced with threats of other BERNINI
daily life. And then, of course, is the indescriba- religious movements, such as the rise of the
ble variety offered at its many museums, art Protestant Church, the pontiffs had to reassert Bernini was born in Naples in 1598, but he
galleries and churches. Some of the museums their power. Fully aware of the influence art had spent the majority of his career in Rome.
charge an admission fee, but the churches can all on the public imagination, the pontiffs commis- Although he ventured into painting from time
be visited for free. Even many of the smaller sioned their architects to build churches and to time, Bernini was primarily an architect and
parish churches contain invaluable works of art, monuments that celebrated the glory of the sculptor, trained by his own father, the artist
such as Michelangelo's Moses in the San Pietro Catholic faith. The resulting pieces were eye- Pietro Bernini.
in Víncoli Church. catching, ornate and at times emotionally over- He is considered to have been one of the main
whelming. Paintings loaded with both pain and catalysts in the development of the Baroque
The Renaissance was an artistic movement that ecstasy, buildings encrusted with gold, sculptu- style. He was inspired by both classic and rea-
spread throughout Europe from the late 14th to res depicting impressive, monumental figures. listic schools of art and masters like
the mid-16th century. The movement was born The goal was to transmit the idea of a powerful Michelangelo, but Bernini was primarily con-
in Italy and was based on the rediscovery of and opulent Catholic Church, its glory unshaken cerned with how to draw in and captivate the
ancient art forms and culture. Although the by the emergence of new religious movements. spectator. He wanted the spectator to become
movement went on to influence almost every part of his work, which led him to infuse both
form of artistic expression and scientific Others besides the pontiffs had their eye on the his architecture and sculpture with powerful
thought, the fields of sculpture and architecture arts. The wealthy Roman families of the 17th imagery, monumental proportions and strong,
seemed to embody the Renaissance spirit the century had also taken a liking to art and archi- clear emotions. Whether you like Bernini's
most. Florence was the undisputed centre of tecture, especially as a means of demonstrating work or not is a matter of taste, but no one can
Renaissance art, but many of the artists who their power. The families became patrons of the deny the sheer, overwhelming power it exudes.
lived there spent long periods of time in Rome. arts, commissioning lavish palaces, portraits and There is no place like Rome when it comes to
The capital city was not only ideal for studying sculptures. In financing the production of the appreciating Bernini's work, which adorns
the art of the ancient world, but it was also home arts, they assured that the pieces would remain facades and the interiors of churches and pala-
to the pope, who commissioned many pieces securely in their possession. The first half of the ces throughout the city. Bernini achieved the
from the artists. Rome benefited greatly from 17th century was marked by political calm and pinnacle of his success in this city, especially
the sojourns of artists like Michelangelo as well stability, which allowed art and architecture to with his stunning work in the Vatican. Both the
as from the influence the pontiffs had on the art flourish. The calm was broken during the Piazza San Pietro and much of the Basilica's
world of the time. second half of the century as political conflicts interior display his unmistakable style. He was
the obvious candidate for the job, considering thetic that it is said to have augured the birth of
that most of his career was linked to the pon- the baroque style.
tiffs and the commissions they gave him. He Although Michelangelo completed several
was somehow perfectly in tune with the important pieces in Rome, his career began in
Vatican's expectations and succinctly understo- Florence, the home turf of the Medici Family,
od how the pontiffs wanted the Catholic one of the great art patrons of the time. At the
Church portrayed. One of his most noteworthy young age of 22, Michelangelo travelled to
pieces is the impressive baldachin that he fas- Rome to study the classic art of the ancient
hioned for the Basilica. With this monumental world. Youth seemed no hindrance to his talent
bronze altar, Bernini sought to portray the - it was during this time that he sculpted one of
superiority of divine power over earthly power. his finest, most moving pieces. The Pietà has
Completing the stunning effect is the immense become as much a symbol for Rome as his sta-
cupola, work of the Renaissance genius tue of David has for Florence. Michelangelo's
Michelangelo, which curves high above the depiction of an ethereal, youthful Virgin Mary
enormous altar. The Piazza San Pietro (Saint cradling Christ's dead body in her arms achie-
Peter's Square) is yet another example of ves a profundity of emotion that has never been
Bernini's masterful architecture. He not only matched by any other work of art. This subli-
worked on the square's design but also created me, indescribable marble sculpture can be seen
the 140 statues along the cornice that surrounds being taller than the church itself, adorned with at the Vatican, close to the entrance to the San
the elliptical square. sinuous, meandering forms that inspired his Pietro Basilica. (The impressive cupola that
In addition to his work for the Vatican, Bernini many disciples and legions of other baroque adorns the Basilica is an example of
also built and embellished several palaces that architects. Michelangelo's equally fine architecture).
are now considered authentic Roman land- Around 1505 Michelangelo completed another
marks. Many of them are now used as Other pieces that bear Borromini's signature extraordinary sculpture, Moses, under com-
museums, and in many instances the buildings are the Sant Ivo Della Sapienzia Church and mission from Pope Julius II. The sculpture was
are as much of an attraction as the art inside the facade of the Sant'Agnese in Agone supposed to form part of a tomb Michelangelo
them. This is definitely the case with the Church. Borromini was also commissioned to was building for the pontiff. But the pontiff
Barberini, Montecittorio and Odescalcci pala- renovate the San Giovanni in Laterano died before it was ever finished, leaving only
ces. One of his most celebrated pieces is the Basilica, Rome's official cathedral. The the sculpture. The immense power exuded by
monumental fountain that adorns the centre of Sant'Agnese in Agone Church on Piazza the sculpture, however, didn't require any
the Piazza Navona. The Fontana dei Quattro Navona faces Bernini's fountain, the Fontana embellishments. In the end, the tomb wasn't
Fuimi exemplifies Bernini's fascination with dei Quattro Fuimi, which has led to a running necessary from an artistic standpoint, because
the human form, his incredible ability to render joke about the work of the two great rivals. the sculpture is sufficiently masterful to stand
movement and the strong expressive quality he Romans claim that the horrified expression alone. The statue of Moses can be seen at the
always looked for in his work. borne by the statues in the fountain are due to small San Pietro in Víncoli Church, located
Bernini was highly respected in his day and the fact that they have to spend their days loo- close to the Coliseum.
enjoyed the prestige and protection that came king at Borromini's church. Although the joke Listing all of the artwork Michelangelo created
with being one of the Vatican's favourite is more popular myth than fact, the rivalry it is or supervised is almost impossible, conside-
artists. This, however, did not always earn him based on did exist. It all began when Borromini ring his prolific nature and the longevity of his
the best of friends. The enmity that existed bet- was working under Bernini on the baldachin in career. One of his most revered achievements,
ween Bernini and Borromini, his great rival, the San Pietro Basilica. The combination of however, is the Sistine Chapel, a piece of reli-
has taken on legendary proportions. The two these two, strong, artistic egos was incendiary, gious art that goes far beyond mere decoration.
artists spent a lifetime finding fault with one leading to a permanent rupture between the Michelangelo was selected to complete the
another's work and person, a rift that provided two who never managed to reconcile their very chapel, which already featured the work of
ample gossip for Rome's many social circles. different views and approaches to the Baroque contemporaries like Botticelli and Ghirlandaio.
style. The ceiling and the western wall were still
BORROMINI empty, and Pope Sixtus IV thought
Borromini committed suicide in 1667 at the Michelangelo would be a good addition to the
Born in 1599 in Bissone, Borromini stood age of 68, driven perhaps by personal mishap chapel's illustrious roster of artists.
apart from his contemporaries for being a or the creative contradictions that plagued him Michelangelo's unparalleled dedication and
purist, working exclusively in architecture throughout his lifetime. In what has been des- creative enthusiasm resulted in what is perhaps
throughout his lifetime. He was one of the lea- cribed as a psychotic episode, he ended his life his finest work, exemplified by the episodes
ding figures in Baroque architecture, genera- by driving a sword through his body. from Genesis and the astonishing Last
ting a pool of influence that would reach far Judgement, two pieces that attract most of the
into the future. He was driven by the desire to MICHELANGELO visitors that flock to the Vatican Museums each
create new spaces, marked by different forms year. The experience of seeing these paintings
and arousing strong emotions in those who Many consider Michelangelo Buonarroti the cannot be put into words. It isn't necessary to
stood within them. His flair for the dramatic ultimate artist, the highest expression of a true be an art expert or a fan of Renaissance style
was expressed flawlessly in his many imposing Renaissance man. He was born in Caprese in painting - the genius reflected in these pieces is
buildings, an effect that was particularly noti- 1475 and died in Rome in 1564. His life's work unmistakable, shining through in the perfec-
ceable in the churches he designed. produced art that continues to move, impress tion of the figures and the vivid expressive
and inspire legions of admirers and still serves quality. The power and intensity of these pain-
His first significant commission was the design as a model for painters, sculptors and architects tings continues to speak to successive genera-
of the church San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane. It today. Michelangelo was one of those rare tions, unchanged by the passing of time. It is
took Borromini almost thirty years to complete geniuses whose talent lent itself equally to each quite simply the highest creative expression of
the church, dedicating an immense amount of of these three artistic forms. His work was the a master, an artistic genius who forever chan-
time to the facade, which has come to exem- zenith of Renaissance art, giving the move- ged the course of art history.
plify his particular style. The facade ended up ment such a fine, immaculately rendered aes-
 Living Culture:
Living Culture: The Eternal City The Eternal City

Twenty million visitors a year can't all

be mistaken; there is something about
Rome that fascinates and attracts peo-
ple, year after year, century after cen-
tury. This incredible hold on the worl-
d's imagination has turned Rome into
one of the most interesting and sought
out tourist destinations in the world.
The eternal city is a veritable open air
museum, layer upon layer of history
leaving its mark on thousands of
monuments, ruins, museums, art
works, churches and catacombs.
Considering the long and impressive
history that has moulded this city, the
historic centre is actually quite small
and easily visited within a short time.
The immense amount of time and cul-
tural legacy expressed by this small
corner of the city, however, takes
more than a few days to settle in and
be grasped in its entirety.

Rome is known as the city of the seven hills. how to build its future whilst maintaining its
The name is taken from the hills that made up A statistic claims that Rome is home to so awe-inspiring past. With much of the public
the ancient city: the Palatine, Capitoline, many churches that seeing them all, at a rate of funds invested into the preservation of ancient
Aventine, Caelian, Esquiline, Viminal and one church a day, would take more than a year. ruins, the city's budget is often strained and
Quirinal Hills. There are actually two other It is therefore best to take your time and care- unable to provide for Rome's modernisation.
hills in the city, the Janiculum and Pincian fully select the churches you wish to visit, a This duality is both a source of pride and a
Hills, but they never formed part of the ancient task that might seem rather overwhelming to constant concern for most Romans. Visitors,
city and are thus not counted. Rome is also most visitors at first. It is therefore helpful to on the other hand, are drawn to Rome preci-
famous for its staggering number of museums, know that there are seven churches that have sely because the city dedicates such an enor-
but that is not what makes the city so unique. historically been the principal destinations for mous effort to preserving its past. No other
The city's singular character stems from the pilgrims. The most important of the seven are city in the world allows you to travel back in
fact that the entire city is a gigantic, outdoor the four patriarchal basilicas (Saint Peters in time and contemplate such an astonishing
museum in and of itself. Furthermore, art the Vatican, San Giovanni in Laterano, Santa wealth of history.
works as magnificent as Michelangelo's Maria Maggiore and San Paolo Fuori le Rome has been the subject of many well-
Moses or the Pieta adorn parish churches and Mura). The last three on the list are the chur- known sayings, but few are as true as this one:
basilicas, allowing visitors to admire them ches of San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, Santa Roma, non basta una vita (Rome, a lifetime is
completely free of charge. Croce in Gerusalemme and San Sebastiano. not enough).

In the end, however, Rome is more than just a

collection of world renowned monuments.
There is a special atmosphere that is singularly
Roman, a timeless charm that is palpable as
you sip a cappuccino in front of the Coliseum,
indulge in an ice-cream and watch the street
performers in Piazza Navona, admire the sun
setting behind one of the Tiber bridges, get
lost amidst the labyrinthine streets of the
Centro Storico or simply unwind in one of
Rome's many, lush parks.

The fact that Rome has an unparalleled, histo-

rical legacy to preserve is both its greatest
charm and most significant weakness. At
times the weight of history hinders the city's
progress. Rome struggles with the dilemma of
 Route 01

Ancient and Imperial Rome

When most people think of Rome, they think Crossing the Piazza di Porta Capena and hea- for the chance to visit its interior. The most
of the eternal city's ancient centre, the ruins ding up Via de San Gregorio, you reach the magical time, however, is the evening. At sun-
that have been immortalised in countless ima- heart of Ancient Rome. Rising up at the end of set, when the crowds die down, the view on to
ges. No other city in the world has as complete the avenue are the Arch of Constantine and the monument is at its most beautiful. Perhaps
an archaeological field in its urban centre as the Coliseum, two landmarks that remain there are better sunsets to be found elsewhere
Rome. Nestled between underground stations, impressive despite the passing of time. The in Rome, but none that evoke this much his-
café terraces and the by now infamous, inces- Coliseum was long the symbol of imperial tory.
sant Roman traffic are monuments like the power, both for its monumental grandeur and
Coliseum, the Arch of Constantine and the social connotations; it was a place where some THE ARCH OF CONSTANTINE
Forums, historical treasures that still guard went to be entertained and others went to die.
many secrets. Unfortunately, the Coliseum no longer posses- Due to its proximity to the Coliseum, the arch
ses its original splendour, having suffered is almost like another element of the same pic-
For some people the route through the ruins of years of neglect. It lay almost forgotten for a ture. If you approach the Coliseum from Via de
Rome might offer nothing more than myriad long time and was even used as a quarry, its San Gregorio, the monumental arch serves as a
piles of deteriorating stones. Others, however, stones lifted to construct new buildings. The gateway, welcoming visitors into the fold of
whose appreciation for history is greater, con- sheer size of it, however, has not been diminis- this historic site. Taking a picture beneath the
sider this route to be the most essential Roman hed. Despite having been depicted in countless arch is almost inevitable; it is simply too
experience, a chance to see the remnants of an images, the Coliseum never fails to impress, its impressive to go undocumented. Built in the
empire that once decided the fate of half the monumental proportions rising up majestically year 312 under Emperor Constantine, it was
world, remnants that tell the story of Roman and towering over its surroundings. During the conceived as a symbol of triumph, a celebra-
city life more than 2,000 years ago. Before tac- day it is almost impossible to avoid long lines tion of one of his many victories. However, the
kling this route, it is best to prepare for this his- majority of the sculptures decorating the arch
torical journey by setting the scene and pictu- were added later by emperors such as Trajan,
ring the era of gladiators, emperors, slaves, Adrian and Marcus Aurelius, who took advan-
nobles and plebeians. tage of the structure to commemorate their own
success. The arch's central location between
The best place to start this walking tour is at the the Coliseum and the Forum area makes it one
Circo Massimo, which now bears little resem- of the most visible and unmistakable monu-
blance to its past incarnation. Consisting of lit- ments in the city, a fact that has turned the arch
tle more than a long, rectangular expanse of into one of the most well-known symbols of
earth, grass and a few scattered trees, it is diffi- Rome.
cult to imagine the sporting events that once
took place here. Today it serves as a resting THE COLISEUM
place for tourists, a hang-out for local youth
and a stage for spontaneous musical perfor- The Coliseum (Colosseo to the Romans) is
mances, all taking advantage of this quiet spot without a doubt the most impressive building
set apart from the constant hum of traffic. in Rome. The construction of the Coliseum,
which was originally known as the Flavio
 still underway; in fact, there is no completion
date in sight because no one knows exactly
how many secrets are still buried beneath the
city.

A visit to the Forum is an absolute must for

anyone interested in archaeology. Walking
amongst the ruins, covering the same ground
as Romans did so many centuries ago, provides
a unique opportunity to imagine what life was
like in Ancient Rome. One of the most impres-
sive and well preserved monuments is the
Arch of Septimius Severus, built to comme-
morate the battlefield triumphs of this emperor.
The relief that embellishes the arch represents
his many victories and in the past a large sculp-
ture of Septimius Severus in a horse-drawn
carriage decorated the very top. The sculpture,
Amphitheatre, was ordered by Emperor interest today, because they provide a close however, fell victim to the passing centuries
Vespasian in the year 72 A.D. It opened a look at the stage and the many, underground and very little of it remains. A curious detail
scant 8 years later, a true architectural marvel passages beneath the rows, where men and ani- provides a glimpse into how truly quotidian
with dimensions that were absolutely spectacu- mals waited for their turn to enter the arena. this place was in its day - a modest inscription
lar for its time: 57 metres high, 190 metres long reveals that a barbershop once stood beneath
and with a circumference of 527 metres. The brutal spectacles at the Coliseum came to the arch.
an end in 523 A.D. (gladiatorial fights had alre-
The Coliseum was to be the greatest theatre ady been banned in the year 438 A.D.). Due to All that remains of the Basilica Emilia are
in the world, an ambition it achieved more the shortage in building materials at the time, some rather deteriorated ruins located towards
than successfully. Of course, the Romans had a the Coliseum was turned into a quarry for the the right side of the Forum. A short distance
rather different concept of theatre back then construction of other buildings, such as the away stands a large, brick building that once
and harboured a special fondness for bloody Palazzo Venezia or the Palazzo della housed the Curia, the political centre of
spectacles. The Coliseum played host to innu- Cancelleria. It sank into less than glorious Ancient Rome, where the Senate convened
merable, deadly games, including gladiatorial times, at one point even serving as a warehou- during the Imperial era. The main hall was
fights and exhibitions of exotic animals se for different city materials. The ransacking always full of political heavy-weights, and the
brought over from Africa. Giraffes, elephants, of the structure didn't even spare the iron bolts doors stood wide open so that the citizens
hippopotamus, hyenas and lions were sacrifi- that connected the stones, which is why you could observe the daily, political goings-on of
ced in the Coliseum's arena every day. The ani- can see deep holes in the façade today. Despite Ancient Rome. During the Middle Age the
mals, however, served another purpose before its horrific past, years of neglect and the semi- Curia changed functions and was turned into a
dying. Individuals belonging to the ostracized ruinous state it is in today (although some church. One of the most revered objects of
social classes, such as slaves, Christians, priso- renovations have been undertaken), the Ancient Rome, the Lapis Niger or Black Stone,
ners of war, criminals and petty delinquents, Coliseum has not lost its power to mesmerise can be found immediately outside the Curia.
were tossed into the arena to fight the wild cre- and remains the most significant and unmista- Although excavations have never found any
atures. While the bloodbath unfolded on the kable landmark in all of Rome. Long queues evidence of this, legends claim that the tomb of
sands below, the audience amused themselves are a given at any time of year, but seeing the Romulus, one of the ancient, mythical foun-
in the stands, laughing, gossiping and enjoying inside of this structure is definitely worth the ders of Rome, lies beneath this stone.
the deadly show. wait. After all, what's a queue, however long it
may be, compared to the 2,000 years of history A short walk through the Forum leads to the
The gladiators were professional fighters who that await inside. Tempio Della Concordia, built between the
endowed the battle cry "Hail Caesar, those years 14 and 37 A.D. under the Emperor
about to die salute you" with its universal The Via dei Fori Imperiali, which begins next Tiberius. After an emperor died in Imperial
fame. The world of cinema has used many of to the Coliseum, leads to the main sections of Rome, custom dictated that a temple had to be
these ancient stories and battles to create cellu- the Forums. The large panels along the left side built in his honour. This is also true in the case
loid epics like Spartacus and Gladiator, which of the road explain the evolution of the Roman of the Tempio di Cesare, which, according to
contain as much fact as they do fiction. Of the Empire throughout the centuries. Spreading legend, stands in the same place where Julius
two gladiators fighting in the arena, one was out on either side of the road are the two
always meant to die. If he didn't lose his life in Forums, the Roman Forum and the Imperial
the arena, he would be condemned to death Forum, which take visitors back in time and
afterwards. Other films have told the stories of offer a glimpse into what daily life was like
Christian martyrdom. While it cannot be during the Roman era. The ruins still showcase
denied that many died in the arena, no study several well-preserved temples, like the
has yet found evidence of serial executions for Tempio di Antonino i Faustina, and the perfect,
religious reasons. sculptural precision of the Colonna Traiana
(Trajan Column).
In addition to being a place of leisure, the
Coliseum was a reflection of Rome's ruling ROMAN FORUM
classes. The podium was for the exclusive use
of the emperor and his entourage, which inclu- The Roman Forum on the Palatino Hill, not far
ded senators, magistrates and the vestal vir- from the Coliseum, is the largest of its kind.
gins. The rows below the podium seated the The grounds can be entered from the Via dei
middle classes and the lowest rows, those with Fori Imperiali, a road which offers a spectacu-
the worst visibility, were designated to the ple- lar view on to the ancient ruins from beginning
beians. Ironically, these are the rows of greatest to end. Excavation and restoration efforts are
Caesar's belongings were burned after his mur- IMPERIAL FORUMS (FORI IMPERIALI)
der. When not honouring an emperor, the tem-
ples celebrated the gods, such as the Tempio di These forums are known by the same name as
Saturno, which long guarded the city treasury. the street that flanks them, the Via dei Fori
Other temples, for example the Tempio de Imperiali. They are located close to Piazza
Castor i Polux, were built to commemorate Venezia, just a short walk from the Coliseum.
legendary heroes. The twins Castor and Polux Due to their proximity to the Roman Forum,
rode their horses into battle and helped the they can easily be mistaken as just another sec-
imperial troops win an important victory in 499 tion of the same. This collection of forums,
B.C. however, was built by a succession of empe-
rors, each constructing a new centre of city life
The southern corner of the Forum is graced by upon coming to power. The Forum of Caesar,
the Basilica Giulia. Measuring 100 metres in for example, was built under Julius Caesar.
length and 50 metres in width, this basilica ser- Very little of the actual forum has been uncove-
ved as the symbol for Julius Caesar's family red, but a most telling piece identifies these
throughout an entire era. ruins as dating back to the reign of Caesar: a
temple honouring Venus Genetrix. It is a well-
Another interesting site is the Tempio di known fact that Julius Caesar considered him-
Vesta, honouring the Roman goddess of the self a direct descendant of this goddess and that
home and hearth. Standing amidst this ruin, he had a temple erected in her honour. COLONNA TRAIANNA
you can imagine the vestal virgins guarding the
eternal flame of the ancient city. In that time, The most distinctive feature of the Forum of The magnificent Colonna Traiana (or Trajan
theirs was a revered function, which endowed Augustus is the temple honouring Mars. This Column) stands close to the Trajan Forum and
the virgins with a very elevated position in monument to the god of war stands in contrast Markets. As the name indicates, the column
ancient Roman society. Vestal virgins sat with to the Forum della Pace (Forum of Peace), was erected by Emperor Trajan. It dates back
the privileged class in the circus and theatre, built under the rule of emperor Vespasian. The to the period between 107 and 113 A.D and ser-
they rode in their own, special carriages and old forum library now houses the San Cosme ved as a symbol of his many military victories.
lived in their own building in order to fulfil and San Damian Basilica, which was added The column rises an impressive 40 metres into
their divine duty. In exchange for these much later and is open to the public. the air. Its surface area measures more than
honours, the women pledged their virginity for 210 metres, covered entirely by epic battle sce-
a minimum of thirty years. If a priestess broke It is the Trajan Forum, however, that consis- nes in relief. The images spiral up the entire
her vow, she was sentenced to death. Since her tently attracts the majority of visitors. The length of the column, carved with immense
blood could not be spilled, the priestess met a forum's busy marketplace was dismantled and detail, precision and clarity. The passing of
horrific end - while still alive, she would be turned into the Atrium Libertatis, the place time has done little to mar the column's condi-
placed inside a wall, and then the wall would where the slaves were freed. In order to make tion, leaving it almost perfectly intact for cen-
be closed up around her. The priestess' lover up for the lost marketplace, the Mercati turies. Only the paint that once adorned the
would also be executed. Traianei or Trajan Markets were construc- relief has vanished over time. It is said that the
ted, and visitors can still clearly see how the remains of Emperor Trajan were buried in a
The Tempio di Antonino i Faustina, which many, different shops were distributed throug- golden urn beneath this column in the year 177
was built in the year 141 A.D., is not far from hout the market area. Excavations have even A.D. If this is true, then the ashes of this larger-
the house of the vestal virgins. This temple is unearthed some marble fragments that reveal than-life emperor still rest here, below the
one of the few remaining clues as to the dimen- much about the various types of commerce that bellicose scenes of his imperial reign.
sions and structure of temples built to honour took place in these markets.
the deceased emperors. Since this temple went Surrounding the Piazza Venezia and stretching
on to serve as a church, it managed to escape Upon leaving the forums and heading down to down to the river is the Teatro di Marcello,
the destruction that befell many of the others. the Ponte Fabricio from Piazza Venezia, you which lies immediately in front of the columns
Upon exiting the temple, you come across the pass alongside the Teatre di Marcello. This dedicated to Apollo. This route comes to an
Arch of Titus, the oldest of its kind in all of was once the site of the Apollo Temple; nowa- end here, a route that is perhaps of foremost
Imperial Rome. days, the three pillars standing next to the the- importance if one is to gain an understanding
atre are the only reminders of what was doub- of how this historic city evolved over time.
tlessly a magnificent structure in its time.
1 Circo Massimo
2 Arco de Constantino
3 Coliseo
4 Foro Romano
5 Foro di Cesare
6 Foro di Augusto
7 Foro Traiano
8 Colonna Traiana
9 Pendent
 Via del Corso from Piazza del Campidoglio Route 02
to Piazza del Popolo

This route begins at Piazza del Campidoglio on equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. The sta- cial buildings in Rome, already serving as an
Capitoline Hill, one of the most important sites tue is actually a replica since the original, archive and registry in the year 78 B.C. In
in Roman history. Much of the area's legacy can which dates back to the 2nd century A.D., had Roman times, this registry maintained all of the
be visited in the Capitoline Museums, which suffered severe damage due to years of pollu- city's bronze tablets, which contained the laws
are amongst the most interesting museums in tion and other environmental hazards. In order and deeds of the Ancient Roman state. During
the city. Piazza Venezia, Rome's epicentre of to preserve what remained of the original, it medieval times a fortress was built that covered
urban life, is only a short walk away. The squa- was replaced by a replica and moved into the the remnants of the Tabularium, which was then
re with the enormous, white Vittoriano monu- Palazzo Nuovo, where it is displayed behind later converted into the Palazzo Senatorio.
ment stirs up mixed emotions in Rome's protective glass. Retaining some spirit from the past, this buil-
citizenry, many of whom dislike the monument ding is still used by the city government for
and have given it an assortment of less than The square is lined by three elegant palaces: the several administrative functions.
favourable nicknames, but it is an inevitable Palazzo Senatorio, Palazzo Nuovo and the
stop for locals and tourists alike. The square Palazzo dei Conservatori. These last two pala- Heading down the stairway to the left of the
does offer visitors valuable insight into the cit- ces make up the Capitoline Museums, and each Palazzo Nuovo brings you to the Carcere
y's pace and urban way of life. one has a separate entrance, although they are Mamertino. Nowadays, the building houses
connected by a tunnel. the San Pietro in Carcere Church, but its pre-
The square is also the beginning of the Via del vious incarnation was far less pious. According
Corso, one of Rome's most emblematic ave- Below the Palazzo Senatorio are the remains of to gruesome tales, this infamous prison was the
nues. The avenue continues in a straight line the Tabularium. This is one of the earliest offi- final destination for generals beaten in battle
from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo, a and many other prisoners, who were tossed into
very popular square with the local population, a deep pit where they lay forgotten. Most of
and the lush gardens of the Villa Borghese. them died of starvation. One legend claims that
Saint Peter performed a miracle during his
PIAZZA DEL CAMPIDOGLIO incarceration here - he caused a spring to bub-
ble out of the ground within the confines of the
Many consider this to be the most elegant prison walls. Saint Peter then used this water to
square in the city, partially due to the fact that baptise the prison guards. A chapel next to a
Michelangelo was responsible for much of its small fountain recalls this legendary miracle.
design. Construction on the square was com-
missioned by Pope Paul III and commenced in MUSEI CAPITOLINI
the year 1536 but wasn't completed until the
17th century, almost one hundred years later. The Capitoline Museums (Musei Capitolini)
The best way to approach the square is via the consist of the collections at the Palazzo Nuovo,
elegant stairway known as the Cordonata, Palazzo dei Conservatori, the Pinacoteca
which begins at the foot of the Piazza Aracoeli. and the Tabularium. Taken together, the com-
The square's most dominant feature is a bronze plex is one of the oldest public museums in the
world. The museums' collection began in 1471 If you leave the Piazza del Campidoglio using meant to reflect the power and strength of a uni-
with a gift from Pope Sixtus IV, who decided to the main staircase, you come across the Piazza fied Italy.
donate several bronze sculptures from the San Aracoeli on your right. This square houses ano-
Giovanni in Laterano Basilica to the people of ther landmark, the Santa Maria in Aracoeli Aesthetically speaking, this might not be one of
Rome. The donation also carried a symbolic Church, which now marks the highest point on Rome's best architectural exemplars, but it does
gesture - although the Campidoglio had been the Capitoline Hill. offer a few perks, including several impressive
neglected for some time, the space had once frescoes, Art Nouveau sculptures and the lovely
served as the religious centre of Ancient Rome. SANTA MARIA IN ARA COELI panoramic view from the very top. The monu-
ment's height allows for a sweeping vista unli-
The Palazzo Nuovo showcases a number of Located between the Piazza del Campidoglio ke any other in Rome, providing a unique view
sculptures and statues representing well- and Piazza Venezia, the Santa Maria in Aracoeli of the Forums and the Coliseum, which lie
known Roman personalities. In addition to Church sits atop the Capitoline Hill, the sma- adjacent to it, and the silhouette of Saint Peter's
the famous bust of Marcus Aurelius, the collec- llest but most sacred hill in Rome. The church dome in the distance. Despite having to tackle a
tion also includes representations of Sophocles, is well-known for housing a number of outs- seemingly endless series of steps to reach the
Homer and Cicero. Another impressive piece in tanding, Roman art pieces that date back to top, this is one hike worth doing - and make
this collection is the bust known as Galata the period between the 13th and 18th centuries. sure to bring your camera because this is one of
Morente or Galata Moribundo, which is The most astonishing works, however, are the the most spectacular photo opportunities Rome
actually a Roman replica of a Greek bust from magnificent frescoes by Pinturicchio, which has to offer. On a clear day the view is simply
the 3rd century B.C. were completed during the Renaissance. breathtaking, especially during a summer sun-
Another peculiar piece is a statue of the Christ set when the sky turns all imaginable shades of
Facing the Palazzo Nuovo is the Palazzo dei child, which was supposedly carved out of an pink and gold.
Conservatori, which served as the seat of the olive tree from the Getsemaní Gardens, where
Roman tribunals until well into the Middle Age. Christ was captured by the Romans following MUSEO NAZIONALE DI PALAZZO DI
Judas' betrayal. VENEZIA

PIAZZA VENEZIA Immediately in front of the Vittoriano, on the

western side of the square, is the Palazzo di
A short walk takes you to Piazza Venezia, the Venezia. It can only be visited when the palace
city's main traffic nexus. Rome is infamous for is hosting an exhibition. Fortunately, this is a
its traffic, and a figure alone can give you a bet- rather common occurrence. The building was
ter understanding of the urban pace in this constructed in 1455 and served as the official
metropolis - almost one million cars drive residence of Benito Mussolini, who used the
across this square every day. This should also many balconies as elevated pulpits from which
give you an idea of what this square is like; in to address the crowds below. The palace also
addition to cars, the most noteworthy element is houses the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo
the enormous, white monument officially Venezia which has a permanent collection of
known as the Vittoriano Renaissance art as well as several pieces from
the Middle Age through to the 18th century.
VITTORIANO Immediately behind the palace is the San
Marco Basilica, which was founded in the 4th
The most significant art work to be found here The gargantuan, white, marble monument offi- century but has been modified several times
is the famous Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline She- cially known as the Vittoriano (in honour of since then. It is most famous for its beautiful
wolf), an Etruscan statue sculpted in bronze Vittorio Emmanuele II) is famous for its many mosaic, which was completed in the 19th cen-
during the 4th century B.C. The she-wolf is nicknames, bestowed upon it over the years by tury.
seen breast-feeding the twins Romolus and the often less than adoring Roman citizenry,
Remus, who are considered the mythical foun- including monikers such as the typewriter, the Tucked behind the palace is the San Marco
ders of Rome. It is interesting to note that the wedding cake and, worst of all, the white can- Basilica, which was originally built in the 4th
figures of the twins are far more recent works cer. From an architectural standpoint, its design century but has been remodelled several times
than the she-wolf and weren't added until 1509. clashes mercilessly with its surroundings (the since. One of the more recent additions is a
Anyone fascinated by ancient legends should Forums, the Campidoglio, the palaces and beautiful mosaic from the 19th century.
pay close attention to the frescoes that cover the museums), but it was built with exactly that Another historical treasure is just a short distan-
palace walls - many of them are visual repre- intention. When it was constructed in the 19th ce away - the Palazzo Doria Pamphili. The
sentations of these ancient stories. Another unu- century, its disproportionate dimensions were palace is of the utmost elegance, emphasised by
sual sculpture to be found at the Palazzo dei
Conservatori is entitled Spinario. This extre-
mely delicate sculpture, carved with astoun-
dingly fine details, depicts a young boy
removing a splinter from his foot. The patio
also holds a few surprises in store, namely the
monumental stone foot that was carved in
honour of Emperor Constantine and moved
here from its original location in the Roman
Forum.

A stop at the Pinacoteca, located in the Palazzo

dei Conservatori, is an excellent conclusion to
the Capitoline Museums. This gallery features
paintings by such masters as Caravaggio,
Guercino, Tintoretto, Titian and Veronés.
a facade from the mid-18th century and a bre- these historical landmarks are closed to the appearance, but although both are baroque,
athtaking interior decor. The palace also houses public, but the monumental exteriors are their lay-out and foundations are actually quite
the Doria Pamphili Gallery, again named after impressive in their own right and a clear indica- different.
the palace's owner, which is renowned for its tion of the important role these buildings once
outstanding private, art collection. The gallery played. The square's fountain is surrounded by a series
owns 400 paintings from the 15th to the 18th of steps which serve as a popular resting place
century, featuring pieces by Caravaggio, MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS AND ARA for people out and about in the city. The nor-
Lorrain and Titian. However, one of the most PACIS AUGUSTAE thern section of the square, next to the Porta del
spectacular pieces isn't by an Italian painter - it Popolo, is where you find the square's most
is a portrait of Pope Innocent X Pamphili pain- Both sites are closed to the public, but they are important church, Santa Maria del Popolo,
ted by the Spanish master Velázquez. The por- worth visiting for their exterior alone. The Ara famous for the valuable art works that adorn the
trait hangs alone in one of the palace's Pacis was built between the years 9 and 13 B.C. walls and ceilings.
supremely elegant rooms, adding to the paint- (estimates regarding its construction period
ing's impressive quality. vary) and is most noteworthy for being one of SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO
the first, authentic examples of classic Roman
One of the city's most significant churches, the sculpture. The exterior showcases a frieze Traditionally churches charge no entrance fee
Chiesa di Gesú, isn't far from the gallery. The depicting familial scenes from that time period. in Rome, and the Maria del Popolo Church is
church is famous for both the beauty of its inte- The mausoleum was built between the years 23 no exception. The church contains a number of
rior and the fact that it was Rome's first Jesuit and 28 B.C. by the Emperor Augustus. In its chapels, one of which, the Capilla Chigi, was
church. Saint Ignacio, the founder of the Jesuit day, it was one of the most spectacular buil- designed by Raphael. The other chapels are
order, spent the last years of his life in this dings in Ancient Rome, covered entirely in adorned with frescoes by Pinturicchio and
church and his chambers are open to the public. marble. Today it has lost much of its splendour, paintings by Raphael, such as the spectacular
Saint Ignacio is also buried here in a tomb made having suffered the abuse of time, neglect and Crucifixion of Saint Peter and the Conversion
entirely out of bronze and marble. pollution. It was used as a fortress and as a the- of Paul. The church is marked by extremely low
atre at different times in its history. In 1936 light, making some of the corners seem almost
If you want to continue to Piazza del Popolo, Mussolini had the mausoleum restored to pre- sinister and endowing the entire space with a
you must head down Via del Corso, one of vent it from deteriorating any further. very special atmosphere. In order to see the
Rome's most famous and busiest avenues. frescoes properly, you have to place 50 cents
Centuries ago this avenue was where the very The Via del Corso ends at the Piazza del into an urn - the church then miraculously lights
popular horse races took place, which is also Popolo, a square that is incredibly popular with up and reveals its many secrets. The breathta-
how it got its name since corso means horse in the local population. Tourists visiting the squa- king quality of the frescoes and paintings make
Italian. The sporting days are long gone, and re for the first time are usually surprised by its 50 cents seem like a paltry sum to pay for so
the racetrack has been replaced by chic bouti- enormous dimensions. much beauty.
ques and popular shops. As you head up Via del
Corso, take a right on Via di Ripetta. This little PIAZZA DEL POPOLO
detour will take you to the Ara Pacis Augustae
and Mausoleum of Augustus. Unfortunately, This popular local hang-out usually takes tou-
rists visiting the square for the first time by sur-
prise. Its enormous dimensions are simply
awe-inspiring, a sweeping square spreading
outward from the gigantic obelisk at its centre.
It is the second oldest obelisk in the city,
brought over from Heliopolis by Emperor
Augustus. Initially it stood in the Circo
Massimo and marked the curve where horses
turned on the elliptical racetrack, but it was
moved in the 16th century. Seen from the front,
the obelisk also separates two of the three chur-
ches that form part of the square's architecture:
the Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa
Maria in Montesanto. They are known as the
twin churches due to their almost identical
INFO

Musei Capitolini
Palazzo Nuevo y Palazzo dei Conservatori
Piazza del Campidoglio
Tel. 06 67102475
Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9am-8pm
General admission: 6,20€. Reduced admission: 4,20€
www.museicapitolini.org

Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Venezia

Via del Plebiscito, 118
Tel. 06 6798865
Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 8:30am-7pm
General admission: 4€. Reduced admission: 2€

Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Piezza del Collegio Romano, 2
Tel. 06 6797323
Opening hours: Every day, except Thursday, from 10am-5pm
General admission: 8€. Reduced admission: 5,70€
www.doriapamphilj.it
1 Piazza de Campidoglio
2 Pallazzo Venezia
3 El Vittoriano
4 Piazza Venezia
5 Palazzo Doria
6 San Marcello
7 Piazza Colonna
8 Piazza del Popolo (sta Maria de
Popolo)
9 Mausoleo Augusto
 Route 03

From Piazza di Spagna to the Quirinale

Piazza di Spagna, a square nestled into one of Climbing the endless steps might seem a pain- combat his tuberculosis. Unfortunately, the
Rome's most elegant areas, is a popular mee- ful task, especially on a hot day, but it is worth young poet didn't recover from his illness - just
ting place for both locals and tourists alike. the effort. Both the church's interior and the one short year later he died at the age of 25.
spectacular, panoramic view are reason enough The house was turned into a museum in 1906,
Although the underground stops at the square, to embrace a little exertion. The Fontana di dedicated to the works of Keats as well as those
it is far more charming to get here on foot. A Barcaccia, the curious fountain in the square's of other romantic writers such as Shelley and
pleasant, picturesque walk along the pretty Via centre depicting a half sunken boat, is the work Lord Byron, who also spent a few years of
del Babuino takes you from Piazza del Popolo of Bernini's father. their lives in the eternal city.
straight to Piazza di Spagna.
KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE VIA CONDOTTI AND CAFFÉ GRECO
Via del Babuino is one of three streets that
begin at Piazza del Popolo, at a fork known as Lovers of romantic poetry will find a small tre- Of all the possible streets to take from Piazza di
Il Tridente (Via Ripetta and Via del Corso are asure tucked next to the grand staircase on the Spagna, the best choice is without a doubt the
the other two). These streets are an absolute Piazza di Spagna. Immediately in front of the elegant Via Condotti. This is high-class at its
must for anyone fascinated by Renaissance square's fountain is the Keats-Shelley House, finest, the Mecca of Italian fashion. The shop
art and architecture, antique shops or the which was once the residence of poet John windows that line this street aren't your garden
crème de la crème of elegant fashion. This cor- Keats. Keats came to Rome in 1820 after his variety - designer royalty reigns here with
ner of Rome isn't a typical urban area; it is a doctors had ordered a change in climate to names like Prada, Moschino, Versace and
bona fide outdoor museum, filled with a wealth Armani turning this stretch of road into the
of artistic and historical treasures that almost classiest catwalk in the world. In short, the Via
no other city can match. Condotti is a feast for the eyes that everyone
can enjoy but only very few can actually own.
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA
Another luxurious treat along this street is the
It seems almost unnecessary to introduce the famous Caffé Greco, which has for decades
Piazza di Spagna, the square of a thousand been a popular gathering place for intellectuals
postcards with those famous steps. The swee- and writers. Sitting in this history-soaked spot
ping steps are not just a popular hang-out on and sipping a classic cappuccino is a tempta-
sunny days; they have become an authentic tion that few can resist. You should know,
Roman landmark. The steps lead up to the however, that treating yourself to coffee here is
Santa Trinita dei Monti Church, which was a luxury in more ways than one - a simple cup
built by the French. The steps themselves don't costs about 6 €.
just owe their name to the Spanish, who occu-
pied this square for many years and have had In order to continue the route to the Quirinale,
their embassy here since the 17th century. it is best to head down Via Sistina. This street
brings you to the Piazza Barberini, where its
 The fountain was designed by Nicola Salvi in
1732 and represents Neptune's carriage
drawn by two sea horses and two tritons.
Although the fountain has been photographed
and reproduced in countless images, no picture
comes close to the experience of seeing the real
thing. However, you shouldn't expect a quiet,
serene atmosphere in which to admire this
spectacular piece. Be prepared for throngs of
tourists and a constant stream of street vendors
selling every imaginable knickknack, street
performers dressed as ancient Romans and
spontaneous photographers trying to sell you
Polaroid pictures of yourself for 5 € a piece. In
short, a dizzying whirl of activity that might
seem a tad overwhelming at first but is, in its
name changes to Via delle Quattro Fontane. the tallest of Rome's seven hills. In addition to own way, quintessentially Roman.
This is also the entrance to the Palazzo being the political epicentre of modern-day
Barberini, a perfect example of the ostentation Italy, the Quirinale's maze of little streets also
that the family of Pope Urban VIII was noto- harbours one of Rome's most glorious and
rious for. The family wanted nothing but the celebrated landmarks. The effort invested into
best and therefore commissioned three of the exploring this area pays off the minute you step
era's finest architects, Maderno, Bernini and into the little square that contains what is pro-
Borromini, to design and build their residential bably the most frequently visited and photo-
palace. Centuries later the family is sharing the graphed monument in Rome, the Fontana di
wealth; the palace is now open to the public Trevi
and home to the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte
Antica with a wonderful collection featuring FONTANA DI TREVI
artists such as Federico Lippi, Caravaggio,
Raphael and Tintoretto. The enormous Fontana di Trevi is probably the
most famous fountain in the world, which
Heading down Via delle Quattro Fontane and makes its location twice as surprising. You
taking a right on Via Quirinale takes you to a somehow expect it to occupy a more majestic
couple of Rome's most famous baroque chur- space instead of a tiny little square nestled
ches, built by the celebrated, rival architects amidst a maze of equally tiny streets. The laby-
Bernini and Borromini. The first church along rinthine nature of the streets also seems to muf-
this street is San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, fle the fountain's waterfall, which isn't audible
located at the corner where the two streets until you step into the square - adding yet ano-
meet. This was Borromini's opera prima in ther element of surprise to discovering this
terms of the many churches he eventually built Roman landmark.
throughout Rome. A few metres down Via
Quirinale, you come across the Sant'Andrea The Fontana di Trevi became an icon in 1959
al Quirinale Church, one of Bernini's most when Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni
original, architectural masterpieces. The chur- took their infamous dip in the fountain in
ch's interior still preserves its magnificent Federico Fellini's masterpiece La Dolce Vita.
decor, but there is something even more unique The scene took the world by storm, inspiring
about this place. Bernini's design of the cupola thousands to try their hand at imitating the cou-
created an astonishing lighting effect that ple. One word of sound advice - bathing in the
remains impressive even today. Admission to fountain is highly discouraged. The floor of the
both churches is free. fountain has sensors that are connected with
the nearby police station. If the carabinieri
PIAZZA DEL QUIRINALE detect as much as a foot in the water, an alarm
is set off and a police unit will sweep into the
The spacious Piazza del Quirinale is just square and present you with the appropriately
around the corner. The square is most notable steep fine. Therefore, it is safer and cheaper to
for the palace that now serves as residence to practice a different Roman tradition instead -
the president of the Republic. It is therefore tossing two coins into the fountain. The first
commonplace to see many carabinieri (local coin ensures your return to the eternal city, and
Italian police) strategically placed throughout the second promises to make you fall in love
the square. However, there are other things to whilst in Rome. And remember to turn your
see here besides uniforms. The centre of the back to the fountain as you toss the coins over
square is adorned with a classic obelisk and your shoulder - otherwise the wishes won't
statues representing the twins Castor and come true. If you are wondering what even-
Polux, Roman era replicas of original Greek tually happens to all of the coins, you can rest
statues from the 5th century B.C. assured that you are not the only one benefiting
from your generosity. The city council collects
Exploring the neighbourhood requires a slight the coins every so often and donates the money
physical effort since most of the streets contain to a number of charitable institutions in the
rather steep stretches; the Quirinale is, after all, city.
INFO

Casa Museo Keats-Shelley

Piazza di Spagna, 26
Tel. 06 6784235
Open Monday-Friday from 9am-1pm and 3pm to 6pm. Saturdays from 11am to 2pm and 3pm to 6pm. Closed on Sundays.
Admission: 3€
www.keats-shelley-house.org

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica – Palazzo Barberini

Via Barberini, 18
Tel. 06 4814591
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7pm.
General admission: 5€. Reduced admission: 2,50€
www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini/it
1 Café Greco
2 Casa Keats-Shelley
3 Piazza di Spagna
4 Santa Trinità dei Monti
5 Fontana di Trevi
6 Quirinale
7 Palazzo Barberini
 Route 04

The Historic City Centre

The Centro Storico or historic city centre lies to actually oversaw the construction in 1697. The escaped complete destruction.
the west of Via del Corso. This area was once centre of the square is adorned with yet another
surrounded by the ancient city walls and con- of the city's many obelisks. The most common The facade has a triangular pediment held up by
sists of an intricate network of little streets, sights in these squares are official cars, private sixteen Corinthian columns. Inside you find
important monuments, elegant palaces and security and bodyguards at the corners. yourself in one of the most humbling and
some of Rome's most famous and charming Whenever the press is milling about and secu- solemn spaces in all of Rome. The most striking
squares. rity tightens, you can assume that an important feature is, without a doubt, the impressive
personality is nearby, something that isn't all cupola. This is one of the grandest cupolas ever
PIAZZA COLONNA AND PIAZZA MON- that unusual here. In addition to being the heart built and at its centre is the oculus, a hole mea-
TECITORIO of political life, the spacious and elegant squa- suring 9 metres in diameter that allows light to
res are also lined with pleasant cafés and some filter into the space, creating indescribably
Both Piazza Colonna and the adjacent Piazza of the most exclusive (and expensive) hotels in beautiful patterns and plays with light and sha-
del Montecitorio are key places in the city, the city. dow. When it rains, the water falls into the
especially as far as politics are concerned. The Pantheon but runs off through several, small
Palazzo Chigi on the Piazza Colonna is the offi- The maze of charming, little, cobblestone stre- holes in the ground.
cial residence of the prime minister and the ets offers a rich variety of boutiques speciali-
Palazzo del Montecitorio is the seat of the sing in all of fashion's latest trends. But before The Pantheon still manages to inspire wonder
current government and the House of indulging in a shopping spree, make sure to in those who visit, but its current state is
Representatives. Although the palace was check the price tags - this area is notoriously nothing compared to the splendour it once pos-
designed by Bernini, it was Carlo Fontana who expensive. Eventually you come to the Piazza sessed. Long ago both the interior and the exte-
della Rotonda, a busy square lined with outdoor
cafés and several excellent ice-cream shops.
This is also where you find one of Rome's most
important and exceptional landmarks, the
Pantheon.

THE PANTHEON

Located on the Piazza della Rotonda, the

Pantheon, which was begun in the year 27 B.C.
under Emperor Agrippa, is the most well pre-
served building of the Ancient Roman period.
The building, once an awe-inspiring temple
dedicated to all the planetary gods, has some-
how managed to persevere despite immense
adversity. It survived a terrible fire and was
rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in 120 A.D. and in
1609 it was converted into a church and barely
 goddess Minerva. The temple dated back to the The square is baroque in style, lined by several
8th century but vanished beneath the founda- buildings with charming, ornate facades. It
tions of the church in 1280. The church was res- bears little resemblance to its past incarnation,
tored in the 19th century, which significantly although its shape does provide a clue. This was
improved its appearance. If you look very clo- once the site of the Circo Domiciano, a popu-
sely at the facade, you will notice faint scars in lar horse-racing track and athletic field. Instead
the stone - traces of times when the Tiber's of the lavishly elegant buildings, the space was
water rose and flooded the area. The church surrounded by rows of seats, filled with long
guards the remains of Catherine of Sienna, gone audiences that came to be thrilled and
Italy's patron saint, and is adorned with exce- amused by a vast number of sporting events.
llent frescoes by Filippino Lippi and sculptures
by a young Michelangelo. The square is an open-air museum, a place
where visitors can admire the work of two artis-
A strange sculpture stands at the square's cen- tic contemporaries and notorious rivals -
tre, immediately in front of the church's entran- Bernini and Borromini. Bernini designed the
ce. The statue was sculpted by Bernini and spectacular Fontana dei Quattro Fuimi, the cen-
depicts a small elephant carrying an obelisk on trepiece in a trio of fountains that decorate the
his back. square. Borromini built the Sant'Agnese in
rior of the cupola were covered in bronze, but Agone Church, one of the city's baroque mas-
the "needs" of the time caused the burnished You are now faced with countless ways of terpieces. The anecdotes surrounding their
metal to disappear. The Pantheon was stripped exploring the Centro Storico, but the best choi- rivalry are legendary; perhaps it was precisely
of its bronze, which then found its way into the ce is taking Via del Pie' di Marmo from Piazza this competitive streak that led the two artists to
cannons at the Sant'Angelo Castle and the Sopra Minerva. This aptly named street create such unforgettable pieces
impressive baldachin that Bernini fashioned for (Avenue of the Marble Foot) cannot be missed. .
the Saint Peter's Basilica. Pope Urban VII, the The corner is marked by a giant, marble foot, FONTANA DEI QUATTRO FUIMI
pontiff responsible for ransacking the the last remnant of an ancient Roman sculpture,
Pantheon, belonged to the Barberini family, lying nonchalantly out in the open. There are The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, one of three
which led the Romans to develop a more than some things that you can only find in Rome. fountains that adorn the Piazza Navona, stands
appropriate word-play. When asked to explain between the Fontana del Moro to the south and
the deterioration of the once splendid Pantheon, As you wander towards Piazza Navona, you the Fontana del Nettuno to the north. Of the
Romans like to reply by saying that "what the pass the elegant Palazzo Madama, a palace three, the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi is doub-
barbarians spared of the Pantheon was greatly built in the 16th century by the Medici family, tlessly the most unusual and surprising.
appreciated by the Barberini". which now houses the city's Senate. Bernini, the artist responsible for designing the
fountain, used human figures to represent four
Despite losing much of its splendour over time, Facing the palace is yet another church that of the world's greatest rivers - the Danube,
the Pantheon never fails to impress and a stay in shouldn't be missed, the San Luigi dei Francesi the Ganges, the Nile and the Rio de la Plata.
Rome isn't complete until you have visited this Church. This baroque church is very popular The expressive quality of the figures is astonis-
site (admission to which is free). In addition to amongst locals, who seem unfazed by the fact hing as are their almost perfectly rendered
the space itself, you can visit the tombs of that the chapels in their parish church feature physical proportions.
Vittorio Emmanuele II and Umberto I, the first the work of masters like Giacomo della Porta,
kings of Italy, and that of the great artist Domenico Fontana and Caravaggio. The fountain underwent a meticulous renova-
Raphael. The latter tomb bears a rather strange tion process which was completed in 2004. The
inscription that is difficult to decipher. PIAZZA NAVONA renovation returned the fountain much of its
previous glory, allowing visitors to appreciate
Upon leaving the Pantheon, take some time to This is one of Rome's most celebrated squa- what a masterpiece it truly is. An amusing anec-
explore the Piazza della Rotonda, which is res, a place that somehow possesses a charm dote surrounds one of the figures; if you look
always lively no matter the time of day. There is that goes beyond the palaces, fountains and closely, you will notice that the figure represen-
something inherently cheerful and spirited churches that decorate the space. There is no ting the river Nile is wearing a blindfold. Some
about the atmosphere in this square, which is doubt that the art and architecture to be found claim that the blindfold refers to the fact that the
equally popular with tourists and locals. The here is absolutely magnificent, but there is Nile was considered a mysterious river at the
latter enjoy the square in traditional Roman something more, something indefinable, that time. Others, however, insist that the figure,
style, either by sitting on the steps around the makes Piazza Navona into such an unforgetta- which faces the Sant'Agnese in Agone Church,
fountain or in one of the café terraces that ble place. Its name, navona, supposedly refers is blindfolded so as not to look upon the church,
abound in this area. The Tazza d'Oro is one of to its boat-like shape, which serves as a plat- which was built by Bernini's great rival,
the best cafés in Rome, serving a delectable form for a colourful group of passengers. Street Borromini. However, this latter tale is probably
selection of Italian coffees at what are, conside- performers, painters, vendors and artisans ply the work of malicious tongues since Bernini
ring the location and fame of this establishment, their trade here during the day and much of the completed the fountain long before Borromini
surprisingly reasonable prices. night, something that doesn't much please the finished his work on the church's facade.
people living on the square. Despite the com-
SANTA MARIA SOPRA MINERVA plaints about noise, the residents of Piazza SANT AGNESE IN AGONE CHURCH
CHURCH Navona are well aware of what a distinguished
address they are lucky enough to call home. The Sant'Agnese in Agone Church is yet ano-
Heading down towards the river on Via Even though the square is always crowded ther one of Borromini's baroque masterpie-
Minerva, you come to the Santa Maria Sopra (usually tourists rather than Romans) and fin- ces. The most fascinating section of the church
Minerva Church. ding a table in a café is a daunting task, Piazza is the chapel that guards the relics of Saint Inez.
Navona is simply one of those special places The story of Saint Inez, who died a martyr in
The church's strange name refers to the fact that you always return to when in Rome. Christmas this church, is a curious one. As she was strip-
this was a religious site long before a church is one of the square's best seasons, when the tra- ped of her clothes to be flogged to death her
stood here. This church, one of the few expo- ditional Befana, a Christmas market named hair started to grow miraculously until it cove-
nents of Gothic architecture in Rome, stands after the typical Italian witch that brings pre- red her entire body. One of the church doors
above the ruins of a temple dedicated to the sents to the children, opens for holiday season. leads into an underground tunnel where you can
visit the ruins of the ancient Circo Domiciano, dark, malevolent period in the square's history.
which now lie beneath the Piazza Navona. During the days of the Inquisition, the Campo
di'Fiori was used for executions, a fate that also
PIAZZA PASQUINO AND PALAZZO befell Giordano Bruno. Bruno was a scholarly
BRASCHI monk who developed an astronomical theory
stating that the earth revolves around the sun
In one corner of the Piazza Pasquino stands one and not vice versa. This might strike us as a
of Rome's historic speaking statues. These sta- well-known, even mundane fact, but in the year
tues were once the cornerstone of a rather 1600 it was anything but.
curious practice. During the 15th and 16th cen-
tury it was customary for people to leave mes- The theory cost Bruno his life - he was branded
sages with these statues, usually critiques about a heretic and burned at the stake. The statue,
the way things were being done in the city. It notable for is dark and mysterious quality,
goes without saying that this practice was not marks the spot where Bruno died.
looked upon favourably by the authorities.
Authoring such a message was considered a PIAZZA FARNESE
crime punishable by death.
This elegant square is primarily known for its tion of the palace, he decided on a few modifi-
The Pasquino statue rests against one of the namesake palace, which now houses the French cations, one of which is a true architectural
walls of the Palazzo Braschi, which now hou- embassy. The palace contains several valuable achievement.
ses the Museum of Rome. The museum's art works, but unfortunately it is closed to the
collection brings together many documents and public. It is interesting to visit the square none- Borromini reduced the size of the columns in
other material related to the city's cultural, theless, because the palace's fascinating facade the hallway leading out to the patio and eleva-
social, historic and artistic life from the Middle is worth seeing. It carries the signature of many ted the floor, thus creating a very surprising and
Age until 1952. architectural talents, including some of the peculiar visual illusion. The hallway seems
most renowned artists Rome has ever known much longer to the eye than it actually is, con-
PIAZZA CAMPO DE FIORI such as Antonio da Sagallo, Giacomo della fusing more than one visitor walking down its
Porta and Michelangelo. length for the first time.
Leaving the palace behind and heading down
Via Baulari, you end up at the Piazza Campo The square's centrepiece, consisting of two,
de'Fiori. This is one of the city's liveliest and gigantic, twin fountains, is another eye-cat-
most popular squares, sought out by people ching element. The fountains' design, which
from all walks of life. In the mornings the squa- features a pair of granite bathtubs, is particu-
re hosts a famous, open-air flower and plant larly unusual. The pieces have their own pecu-
market, the traditional event that gave the squa- liar story - they were moved to the Piazza
re its name. The cafés are crowded throughout Farnese from their original location at the
the day, and the many little side-streets are lined Termes di Caracalla.
with chic stores and galleries. After sunset, the
square turns into a popular nightlife spot, fea- PALAZZO SPADA
turing many bars and pizzerias. The clientele is
as mixed as during the day, attracting both The Palazzo Spada is a beautifully conserved
young crowds that sit in the middle of the squa- palace, thanks to the restoration the Spada
re drinking beer and hipsters in designer clo- family commissioned from Borromini in 1632.
thing that sip cocktails at the many upscale The family donated their private art collection
bars. to the city of Rome in 1926, which is displayed
in the Spada Gallery and includes interesting
A mysterious, hooded statue stands at the centre paintings by Rubens and Titian. Another nota-
of the square. The piece honours Giordano ble facet of this building is the architecture
Bruno and serves as a sinister reminder of a itself. When Borromini undertook the restora-

Información útil

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Piazza di San Pantaleo, 10
Tel. 06 67108346
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7pm.
General admission: 6,20€. Reduced admission: 3,10€
www.museodiroma.comune.roma.it

Galleria Spada – Palazzo Spada

Piazza Capodiferro, 13
Tel. 06 6832409
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 8:30am-7:30pm.
General admission: 5€. Reduced admission: 2,50€
www.galleriaborghese.it/spada/it/default.htm
1 Piazza Colonna 6 Via del Pie' di Marmo
2 Piazza del Montecitorio 7 Piazza Navona
3 Panteón 8 Estatuas parlantes
4 Piazza della Rotonda 9 Piazza Campo de'Fiori
5 Sta Maria Sopra Minerva 10 Piazza Farnese
 Route 05

El Trastevere

The Tiber River, which runs through much of come here every day. neighbourhood that still holds on to its traditio-
the city's historic core, is more than just a water- nal way of life. At night everything changes as
way; the river has grown to be as much a symbol Things might be changing in Trastevere, espe- both crowds of young people and tourists cross
of Rome as the Coliseum or the Spanish Steps. cially for its local population, but that doesn't the river and flock to the neighbourhood. A trat-
The river endows the city with yet another facet change the fact that it is still one of the most toria or restaurant is tucked down every street,
of its personality and has influenced Roman life authentic and charming areas in Rome. It even the tiniest alleys, and still offer reasonable
for centuries. The many bridges that cross the somehow seems to move at a different pace than prices despite the surge in the area's popularity.
Tiber are signposts of different, historical eras the rest of the city, its individual character for- Stores specialising in music, clothing and handi-
and have become essential elements of the ged through both the real and the psychological crafts stay open until very late, and street perfor-
river's landscape. The neighbourhood that has division that is the Tiber River. Perhaps it is this mers provide spontaneous entertainment at any
been most significantly influenced by its proxi- very same separation that has also allowed given time, in any given place. Some people
mity to the Tiber is Trastevere, whose name Trastevere to keep much of its unique character come to stroll through the neighbourhood while
even references the legendary river. Tevere is alive over time. A palpable shift in atmosphere others prefer to sit in the squares, hanging out
the Italian name for the Tiber and tras means on and rhythm accompanies the change from day to with friends and drinking. Unfortunately this
the other side. Thus, it is the neighbourhood on night in the neighbourhood. Day and night are can lead to less than desirable situations in the
the other side of the Tiber. very different here and both must be experien- late hours of the night, often causing the carabi-
ced in order to truly appreciate everything nieri to come and clear out the area. However,
Trastevere lies across the river from the Trastevere has to offer. this is all part of Trastevere's character, a neigh-
Centro Storico and has the most unique and ste- bourhood with two very different lifestyles,
adfastly Roman character of all the city's areas. Trastevere in the mornings and during most of and anyone seeking a complete picture of
Time, however, doesn't stand still, not even in the daytime hours more closely resembles a Roman life needs to experience them both.
Trastevere. The neighbourhood has been disco- village than part of a country's capital city. The
vered by a young, hip and wealthy crowd, cau- pace is languid, street vendors wander the stre- Many bridges cross the Tiber, but some are
sing the area to lose some of its traditional ets and shops display part of their merchandise especially suited for a trip into Trastevere.
charm. Many of the neighbourhood's long-term on the cobblestone streets. There is a timeless Ponte Sisto, Ponte Garibaldi, Ponte Fabricio
locals are slowly moving out to other, cheaper quality to the older generations who sit in the and Ponte Palatino, located between the
areas and new, wealthier tenants are taking their squares, chatting with what seems like all the Centro Storico and the Teatro de Marcello, are
place. The old "palaces" are being converted time in the world, and to the laundry that still all excellent choices that lead directly to the
into hip establishments, gradually changing the flutters on the balconies. Italian mammas shop Trastevere riverfront. Ponte Fabricio, as the
life-style of this area. The traditional trattorias at small, family-owned shops, and families bridge is known on the northern shore, is one of
still abound in Trastevere, but they now rub stroll down the narrow streets as if much of the the oldest in Rome. Its name changes to Ponte
shoulders with fast-food pizzerias and other pla- modern world was still being held at bay by the Cestio on the southern side. This might be the
ces that cater primarily to the many visitors who river. This is the classic Trastevere, a proletarian most picturesque route to take since it leads you
 to mark the exact spot where the snake crawled
ashore. People stricken with the plague came to
the sepulchre and were cured when they left and
thus the island's mythical healing powers were
born. In fact, the island had long been dedicated
to Aesculapius, the roman god of medicine. This
ancient tradition was continued by monks in the
Middle Ages, who set up a hospice that would
eventually become the Ospedale
Fatebenefratelli. This hospital is still up and
running and is considered one of Rome's most
revered medical institutions.

There is also a church on the island, named

after Saint Bartholomew, which stands above
the ruins of the ancient temple dedicated to
Aesculapius. Another interesting landmark can
be found a little further down the river. The rem-
nants of what is popularly referred to as the
Ponte Rotto (the Broken Bridge), belong to one
of the oldest stone bridges built in Rome.
Originally constructed in 142 B.C., the bridge
was largely destroyed by a violent flood in 1598.
After years of deterioration, all that remains of
the ancient bridge is one, lone arch.

Crossing the Ponte Cestio takes you to the

Piazza Piscinula in Trastevere, site of the San
Benedetto in Piscinula Church, which is famous
for having the oldest Roman church bell.
Another noteworthy church, the Santa Cecilia
in Trastevere, is located at the nearby Piazza
Mercanti. Art lovers flock to the church to see
the strikingly beautiful fresco by Pietro
Cavallini in the choir. The religiously devout,
however, come here for another reason. The
across the Tiber Island, another charming spot in church is the final resting place of Saint Cecilia, and cellar. Brighter times came when a middle-
the city. who died in the year 230 A.D. More than a thou- class family turned the tower into a manufactu-
sand years later, in 1599, her tomb was opened ring plant for enamel and coloured glass.
ISOLA TIBERINA (TIBER ISLAND) and her body was discovered in a remarkable However, the most interesting tenant the tower
state of preservation, a fact that many could only ever had was poet Dante Aligheri, who lived
The little island in the middle of the Tiber River, explain as a divine miracle. here for about one year. In fact, the library insi-
which only measures 300m in length and 80m de the tower houses what is probably the best
across, is a very curious place. Countless TORRE DEGLI ANGUILLARA collection of Dante's work worldwide. The
legends surround this tiny patch of land, mostly square on which the tower stands is also the
revolving around its long tradition in medicine. There is more to this building than a pretty exte- beginning of Trastevere's main thoroughfare,
One legend tells the story of a snake brought rior. Its long and colourful history began with the Viale di Trastevere, an extremely long ave-
over from Greece to cure an outbreak of the the Anguillara family who owned the tower nue that transverses the entire length of the
bubonic plague that was decimating the city. until 1538. The building then changed hands neighbourhood. The street becomes the area's
The snake escaped the ship it was travelling on and fell into a long period of decline during central attraction on Sunday mornings when it
and reached the island, and a sepulchre was built which it was used as a stable, slaughterhouse transforms into a traditional market with coun-

Información útil
Museo di Roma in Trastevere
Piazza di San Egidio, 1/b
Tel. 06 5899359
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 10am-8pm.
General admission: 2,60€. Reduced admission: 1,60€
www.comune.roma.it/museodiroma.trastevere/

Galleria Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10
Tel. 06 68802323
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 8:30am-7:30pm.
General admission: 4€. Reduced admission: 2€
www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/it/default.htm
tless stores and visitors eager to browse. The difficult, but it is still possible. All you need is significant. It was the first church in Rome to be
market runs down the entire length of the ave- some patience and a good hand at bartering and dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
nue all the way to the river, close to Porta then you're bound to leave Porta Portese with at
Portese and the Ponte Aventino. least one or two unique acquisitions. If you want to see yet another side of this multi-
faceted neighbourhood, head down Via della
THE PORTA PORTESE MARKET Taking Via di San Francesco a Ripa from Viale Scala until you reach the Villa Farnesina and the
di Trastevere leads you directly to the Piazza Palazzo Corsini. These are two of the area's
Porta Portese is one of the largest, most diverse Santa Maria in Trastevere, the neighbourhood's most elegant buildings. The former is home to a
and popular flea-markets in Europe. On any main square. This is Trastevere's heart, the place very fine art collection that includes pieces like
given Sunday up to 4,000 stalls open shop to sell where you find the truest expression of the the Three Graces by Raphael whereas the latter
all imaginable merchandise, including antiques neighbourhood's aforementioned character. The houses a section of the Galleria Nazionale
(as well as a lot of junk), second hand clothes, square is the epicentre of neighbourhood life, d'Arte Antica (the rest of the gallery can be visi-
books, magazines, decorative items and food both during the day and at night. In terms of his- ted at the Palazzo Barberini).
products. Due to the market's soaring popularity, torically important buildings, the Santa Maria
finding bargain deals is becoming increasingly in Trastevere Basilica is one of Rome's most

1 Ponte Sisto 4 Ponte Palatino 7 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

2 Ponte Garibaldi 5 Isola Tiberina 8 Santa Maria in Trastevere
3 Ponte Fabricio 6 Torre degli Anguillara 9 Mercado Porta Portese
 Route 06

Along the Esquilino from Termini Station to

San Giovanni in Laterano
This route is unlike others in that it covers a busy conglomeration of shops, bars and This section of the museum, the Museo
areas that are distinctly different from one ano- cafés. The tourist information located inside Nazionale Romano - Terme di Diocleziano,
ther, resulting in a tour that allows you to sam- the station is an excellent resource for people can be accessed from the Piazza della
ple much of Rome's multi-faceted character. visiting Rome for the first time. Repubblica, a square also well-known for its
Starting at Termini Station, this route takes you fountain, the Fontana delle Naiade. This sec-
back in time to several important periods in the The Piazza dei Cinquecento, which serves as tion of the museum, resting on the ancient ruins
city's history and stops in at a number of the city's bus terminal, is right next to the sta- of the baths, only houses a few pieces of the
important architectural and religious sites, tion. If you ever get lost, this is the best place to entire collection. The museum is scattered
coming to a close at the basilica in San go since almost every bus line in Rome begins throughout the city and housed in a number of
Giovanni in Laterano. its trajectory here. The square is a lively and different places such as the Palazzo Massimo
noisy place, not all together surprising conside- alle Terme, the Palazzo Altemps and the
TERMINI STATION ring that this is the city's hub for public trans- Crypta Balbi. The Aula Ottagona, a space
port. During the day, the square is brimming that displays a number of Roman sculptures
Rome's central train station is more than the with life and activity, filled with people from the era of the baths, is located at one end
nexus of incoming and outgoing railroad traf- coming and going. At night the milieu changes of the square.
fic; it is also a perfect example of how fascist considerably, and the area turns into a less than
and post-war architecture coexist in the same desirable place to spend the nocturnal hours. The Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, located
space. The inside of the station is a hub of acti- close to the Terme di Diocleziano, has an
vity: the main point of departure and arrival for MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO impressive collection of sculptures depicting
both national and international trains as well as emperors and members of illustrious Roman
The museum's archaeological collection is not
only the best in Rome but also one of the most
important worldwide. Parts of the collection
can be seen at a number of locations throug-
hout the city, but the most important pieces are
here, at one end of the square. These are the
remnants of the Terme di Diocleziano, the
most popular and renowned baths of the 4th
century, which once accommodated more than
3,000 people. The baths took up an enormous
stretch of land, a terrain now flanked by the
streets Via Torino, Via Volturno, Piazza dei
Cinquecento and Via XX Settembre. The spot
that once held the actual baths is now taken up
by the Santa Maria degli Angeli Church, which
was designed by Michelangelo and contains
several, valuable artworks in its interior.
 the Monte Esquilino (the location of the church closes at midday (between 12:30pm
church). This has resulted in a charming cere- and 3:30pm). If you happen to visit the church
mony that takes place every year on August 5th during these hours, you can always relax in one
to commemorate the miracle. On this day of the many bars and pizzerias located throug-
countless white petals are released from a hole hout the area. The establishments around the
in the church's ceiling and gently come floating church are very reasonably priced and popular
to the ground. amongst students from the neighbouring medi-
Despite several remodelling efforts, the church cal school on Via Eudossiana.
has managed to maintain the rich beauty of its
interior. Most of the ceiling is covered in gold, COLLE OPIO AND DOMUS AUREA
which was given to the church by the Catholic
Monarchs, who had accumulated immense The Colle Oppio was once the stuff that dre-
wealth thanks to Spain's voyages to America. ams are made of, fantastical grounds that
Another interesting feature is the bell tower, an surrounded the Domus Aurea, Emperor Nero's
excellent example of Romanesque architectu- residence towards the end of his life. Nero
re. ordered the construction in 64 A.D., after a bru-
The Esquilino Hill stretches all the way from tal fire decimated the city. The facade was once
our starting point at Termini Station to the painted entirely in gold and the lush, beautiful
families as well as ancient paintings, some of Coliseum. The main street connecting these gardens were bisected by private aqueducts.
which date back as far as the year 20 B.C. The areas is Via Cavour, and the best option after Nero didn't enjoy his palatial idyll for long - he
remaining sections of the museum are located your visit to Santa Maria Maggiore is to head committed suicide just four years after cons-
further away. Although they don't technically down this thoroughfare. Bear in mind that if truction was completed. His successors wanted
belong to this itinerary, they are mentioned you decide to do this route in the opposite to eliminate every trace of the excesses left
below in order to provide a complete overview direction, you will face a rather exhausting behind by the eccentric emperor so they strip-
of the museum. climb. The incline on Via Cavour is rather ped the entire complex. The plundering of the
steep, making a downhill stroll the more com- Domus Aurea and the passing centuries contri-
You can visit another part of the collection at fortable option of the two. Eventually you buted greatly to the deterioration of the structu-
the Palazzo Altemps, close to Piazza Navona, come across the charming square San Pietro in re. So little remains of its past incarnation that
which consists mostly of classic sculptures that Vincoli and its namesake church. most of what we know of the original Domus
have been restored and thus saved from com- Aurea comes from historical data and stories
plete deterioration. If you head down from SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI CHURCH passed down over generations. Looking at it
Piazza Venezia towards the Tiber, you will today, you would never imagine that it was
come across the Crypta Balbi. As the name once such a splendid, awe-inspiring building.
indicates, this is a subterranean site; a ruin
beneath an old theatre built in the year 13 B.C. SAN CLEMENTE BASILICA

SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE BASILICA The next stop on the route is Via Merulana,
which can be reached by taking one of two
Heading down Via Torino from Piazza della main streets. Walking along Viale del Monte
Repubblica, you come to the Santa Maria Oppio, you pass the ruins of the ancient Trajan
Maggiore Basilica. baths, a site that has unfortunately suffered
from long-term neglect, and the San Martino ai
The church's facade may mislead a few visitors Monti Church. In any other city, this church,
into believing that it is more modern than it adorned with beautiful mosaics and the rem-
actually is. The facade is an 18th century addi- nants of classic sculpture, would rank amongst
tion to the church, which actually dates back to the most exceptional. Not so in Rome, a city of
the 5th century. The origins of the church are innumerable churches, where far more glorious
cloaked in a lovely legend. One day Pope examples leave this one lingering in obscurity.
Liberius saw a vision of the Virgin Mary, who If you instead opt for the Via de San Giovanni
spoke to him and asked for a church to be erec- in Laterano, which leads directly to the city's
ted in her name. It would snow in one place the This small, charming church has more than one cathedral, you can make a stop at the San
next day, she said, and that was where the surprise in store for visitors. One highlight is Clemente Basilica.
church should be built. It was August but to the the majestic statue of Moses on his throne, a
astonishment of Rome's citizenry, it snowed on piece by Michelangelo. The statue, which is This is one of the most fascinating churches in
located on the right side of the church, is
actually part of the tomb Michelangelo was
designing for Pope Julius II. However, the pon-
tiff died before the tomb was finished, and he
was buried in the Saint Peter's Basilica instead.
The church is also famous for a pair of chains,
safeguarded inside a chapel. The church was
actually built precisely to house these chains,
which are believed to be those used in the
capture of Saint Peter. According to legend,
only one of these chains was located in Rome.
And then, one day, the other chain came to
Rome from Constantinople and the two were
miraculously reunited.

The church is open every day and there is no

admission charge. Keep in mind that the
Rome, built on a number of different levels over to Rome. The marble steps are now cove-
that expose the long history of religious practi- SCALA SANTA red in wood to protect them from wear and tear.
ce that took place here. Over the centuries, the Devout visitors climb the staircase on their
site housed a succession of churches and tem- knees, pausing on every step to give forth a
ples, each new building covering the remains short prayer. The steps end at the Sancta
of its predecessor. Three of these can still be Santorum (Holy of Holies) which was once a
seen in this architectural patchwork, and it is private chapel used exclusively by the pope.
believed that even more structures lie in the The chapel contains an interesting portrait of
ground beneath. Behind the 18th century faca- Christ, authored by an unknown painter. Less
de are the remnants of a church built in the 12th devout visitors wanting to visit the chapel can
century, embellished with beautiful mosaics. do so via two alternative staircases on either
The second level still shows traces of a church side of the Scala Santa.
that stood here in the 4th century, and the final
level unveils yet another long buried treasure - Regardless of religious beliefs, the Scala Santa
the ruins of a house that once served as a tem- is one of the most impressive expressions of
ple dedicated to the pagan god Mitra. faith that one can witness in our day and age.

Via Merulana is difficult to miss; the street is PIAZZA SAN GIOVANNI

much wider than all those in the vicinity. Once
you are here, head southward on this classic This enormous square is most famous for being
avenue, lined with an assortment of traditional, the site of Rome's cathedral, the Basilica of
Roman shops. These stores have none of the San Giovanni in Laterano . This basilica was
elegance that marks the area around Piazza di Via Merulana finally brings you to the Piazza the first Christian church to be built in
Spagna or Via del Corso, but they have a far San Giovanni , a square dominated by the Rome, commissioned by Emperor
more authentic feel to them and there is no monumental San Giovanni in Laterano Constantine. The church has prevailed through
shortage of bargains to be found. Continuing Basilica. Before entering the church, you several bouts of adversity, surviving two fires
on this street until Via Labicana, you now should visit one of the holiest sites in the that nearly destroyed it. Fortunately, the church
come to the San Antonio de Padva Church Christian faith - the Scala Santa. was rebuilt both times in a manner that respec-
on your left. This is an authentic, popular ted its original design and structure.
neighbourhood church, the perfect place to get This is one of Rome's most unusual sites and
a glimpse of what daily Catholic life is like in one of Christianity's most sacred places. The facade features a set of enormous bronze
Rome. If you happen to be here on June 13th, Devout pilgrims frequently visit the steps, doors that were originally part of the Curia in
don't miss out on a visit to the church. This is which are reputed to be those ascended by the Roman Forum. The doors sit below an 18th
when the community celebrates the church's Christ in Jerusalem on his way to trial befo- century portico by Alessandro Galilei and
patron saint, allowing you the rare treat of wit- re Pontius Pilate. It is in fact true that the steps serve as the main entrance to the basilica. The
nessing an authentic, local religious celebra- once stood in Jerusalem. Constantine's mother, majestic, spacious interior bears the signature
tion. a famous collector of relics, had them brought of Borromini, who was commissioned in the

INFO
Museo Nazionale Romano – Terme di Diocleziano
Via E. De Nicola, 78
Tel. 06 39967700
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7:45pm.
General admission: 5€. Reduced admission: 2,50€
www.archeorm.arti.beniculturali.it/sar2000/diocleziano/default.asp

Museo Nazionale Romano- Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti, 1
Tel. 06 4814144
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7:45pm.
General admission: 6€. Reduced admission: 3€
www.archeorm.arti.beniculturali.it/sar2000/Museo_romano/Pal:massimo.asp

Museo Nazionale Romano – Palazzo Altemps

Piazza di San Apollinare, 44
Tel. 06 6833759
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7:45pm.
General admission: 5€. Reduced admission: 2,50€
www.archeorm.arti.beniculturali.it/sar2000/Altemps/Pal_altemps.asp

Museo Nazionale Romano – Cripta Balbi

Via Botteghe Oscure, 31
Tel. 06 6780167
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-7:45pm.
General admission: 4€. Reduced admission: 2€
www.archeorm.arti.beniculturali.it/sar2000/cripta/cripta.asp
17th century to renovate the entire basilica. you visit the cloister in the afternoon, shortly Evangelist and Saint Venanzio are all note-
Marble is the predominant material, which before closing time at 6pm. A sense of perfect worthy for their beautiful mosaics.
adds to the almost regal quality of the space as serenity characterises the cloister, where you
does the incredible Giotto fresco that covers can see a number of sarcophagi as well as the Another attraction is the Palazzo
the length of one entire wall. A Gothic balda- personal effects of several pontiffs. Lateranense, which served as the pope's resi-
chin hangs above the altar, which is reputed dence for many years and now houses the
to cover the relics of the apostles Paul and Upon leaving the basilica, make sure to visit Offices of the Roman Diocese. The palace
Peter. Only the pope may conduct mass under the adjacent building, which houses the bap- was the site of some of the most important
the baldachin, a privilege that is honoured on tistery. The battistero (baptistery) is where the events in the history of the Catholic Church,
every Maundy Thursday. first Christian baptisms took place in Rome. including the signing of the Letrán Pact in
Like the basilica, the baptistery was built 1929 which established the Vatican as an
One of the most impressive sites within the under Emperor Constantine and both structu- independent state.
basilica is the cloister. Admission to the basi- res have been remodelled several times over
lica is free of charge, but a morning visit to the the centuries, not always to favourable effect.
cloister costs 2 €. The fee is reduced to 1 € if The chapels of Saint Rufina, Saint John the

1 Piazza dei Cinquecento 4 Stazione termini 7 Domus Aurea

2 Museo Nazionale Romano 5 Santa Maria Maggiore 8 Basílica de San Clemente
3 Terme di Diocleziano 6 San Pietro in Vincoli 9 Scala Santa
 Route 07
The Vatican

The Vatican is the world's smallest, indepen- ponsible for the state's administration as delega- real name of this Roman priest was Mercurio
dent state, an autonomous region, despite its ted by the Pope. and it goes without saying that the Catholic
physical proximity to Rome, with a population Church couldn't have its highest representative
of 500. The Vatican has its own communication Since every Pope is considered the direct suc- be named after a pagan god.
network (press, radio, and television channels), cessor of Saint Peter, thus receiving his autho-
stamps and transportation system; prior to the rity directly from Jesus Christ, he is granted SAINT PETER'S SQUARE
introduction of the Euro, it even had its own complete power within the Catholic Church.
currency, minted within the confines of the tiny During the First Vatican Council in 1870, more The Vatican is the main destination for
state. The governing authority of the state is than 400 bishops approved the dogma of the Christian and Catholic pilgrims as well as a
the Pope, the highest official in the Catholic Supreme Pontiff's Infallibility, which means popular tourist attraction thanks to its impressi-
Church. As this is being written, only a few that the Pope is infallible in questions of faith ve art collection. Saint Peter's Square is the cen-
months have passed since the death of John and morality and that his decisions cannot be tral nerve of the Vatican, the place where most
Paul II and the nomination of his successor, disputed. The current Pope, Benedict XVI visitors gather before heading to other sites. It is
Benedict XVI. The entire world closely follo- (whose real name is Joseph Ratzinger) is the also the entrance to the impressive Saint Peter's
wed the Pope's funeral and the nomination pro- 265th pontiff. The custom of pontiffs adopting Basilica, the largest and most elaborate that
cess that reaches its conclusion with the tradi- a name other than their own started in the year exists anywhere in the world.
tional column of white smoke. Regardless of 533 when John II was chosen as the Pope. The
religious beliefs, people around the world focu- The Piazza San Pietro (Saint Peter's Square) is a
sed their attention on the Vatican for several
days, gaining insight into the Catholic Church's
inner workings and witnessing a record-brea-
king media event.

The modern Vatican City State was created on

February 11, 1929 when Dictator Benito
Mussolini and Pope Pius XII signed the Letrán
Pact. The pact recognised the independence
and sovereignty of the Holy See, thus ending a
dispute with Italy that dated back to the
Catholic Church's loss of the Papal States in
1870. The pact also assigned the Pope as the
Vatican's head of state, a position that was to be
elected by a conclave of cardinals. The Pope is
in charge of the legislative, executive and judi-
cial functions, whereas the Roman Curia is res-
 the Catholic Church and symbol to its power
worldwide, adorned with many sculptures and
funerary monuments as well as containing 50
altars and 500 columns. A statue of Saint Peter
holding the key to the city marks the entrance to
the basilica and recalls the historical event that
gave birth to this religious monument.

Standing in the square, it is almost impossible

to grasp the basilica in its entirety; the monu-
mental nature of its size stretches beyond the
limits of human vision. It was built by several
artists under the watchful eye of many empe-
rors, which led the architecture in many diffe-
rent directions. When Constantine commenced
construction, the basic structure was to mimic a
Latin cross, consisting of a central nave, several
lateral naves and a crossing. Some time later,
vast, monumental square, a place where the Nicholas V decided to expand the church and, bring a scarf or jacket in order to pass the first
faithful gather every Sunday for mass. When even later, Julius II commissioned a new church security control.
the Pope is in Rome, he conducts the mass from from Bramante. Bramante changed the concept
the window of his private quarters. Although and based his design on the shape of a Greek Five doorways lead into the church. The main
the square is an important destination for cross instead. When Bramante died, Raphael, entrance, the Porta Santa (Holy Door) can
Catholic pilgrims, it is equally attractive to tou- Da Sangallo and Fra Giacondo were put in only be opened and closed by the Pope, and its
rists of all stripes since the Vatican is home to charge of the project, and they decided to return use is therefore limited to a jubilee year. Once
one of the world's most spectacular art collec- to the original idea. More changes followed you cross the threshold, the astounding art
tions. The square was constructed between the with the selection of Michelangelo, who was collection unfolds before you. One of the first
years 1656 and 1667 by Bernini, who had been asked to construct the cupola and once again sculptures you come across is the Pietà, the
commissioned by Pope Alexander VII. The opted for the Greek cross as the design's gui- immensely moving and luminous depiction of
square's elliptical shape and architecture has ding principle. Finally, after Michelangelo's the Virgin Mary holding the lifeless body of
brought about a number of different interpreta- death, Pope Paul V decided to change the pro- Christ in her arms.
tions. Some scholars insist that the semi-circu- ject's design yet again, returning to the concept
lar "arms" flanking either side of the square of the Latin cross. THE PIETÀ
represent "the church's open arms", welcoming
all those who visit. Others, in turn, claim that Seen from an architectural point of view, the The Pietà stands in the Santa Petronilla Chapel,
the square's design represents the Pope, the side basilica's blend of styles and the constantly one of the first chapels to the right of the basili-
buildings symbolising his arms and the basili- changing decisions regarding its construction ca's entrance. This is one of Michelangelo's
ca's cupola the crown upon his head. turned it into something less than a masterpiece. most meaningful and poetic pieces, not only
Many experts consider it an architectural hod- because of its deeply moving quality, but also
One thing about the architecture's design is cer- gepodge that doesn't even approach brilliance. because the sculptor was only 22 when he car-
tain. Amongst the requirements was the stipula- However, the basilica still manages to impress, ved the piece in 1498. Of all the work
tion that the Pope's private quarters would be serving as both a monumental place of worship Michelangelo created throughout his career,
clearly visible to all sections of the square, alre- and undisputed symbol of the Catholic Church. this is the only one he ever signed (his name is
ady anticipating that these would function as Before entering the basilica, you will have to engraved onto the sash that crosses the Virgin
the primary place for conducting mass and endure the endless queues that seem immune to Mary's dress).
giving papal addresses. seasons and weather as well as undergo a com-
plete security control. Cameras are permitted, It took Michelangelo two years to sculpt this
The two fountains adorning the square are pie- but other objects that might logically be found masterpiece, carved entirely out of an enor-
ces by Maderno and della Fontana, and the in a tourist's handbag (penknives, nail clippers, mous block of marble from the Carrara quarry.
Egyptian obelisk was brought over from sharp objects) are prohibited. You should also The Pietà depicts the Virgin Mary cradling
Heliopolis and placed in the square by Sixtus V remember that a certain dress code is enforced - Christ's lifeless body in her arms immediately
in September 1585. The entire elliptical shape bare shoulders and short skirts and trousers are after he was taken down from the cross. The
of the square is surrounded by a magnificent a definite no-no. It is therefore a good idea to Virgin's face is lined with an indescribably
series of columns, crowned by statues of saints moving expression, filled with a profound sad-
that protect the square. However, the main ness as well as the kind of resignation that can
attraction is the basilica with its monumentally only be borne of deep faith. The sculptural pre-
impressive facade and the breathtaking cupola cision of the figures is classic to Michelangelo's
designed by Michelangelo. work, who placed great importance on anatomi-
cal representation and exactitude.
BASILICA SAN PIETRO
The Pietà always draws a large crowd, but it is
It is said that this is the place where Saint Peter worth waiting for a moment of relative calm to
died a martyr, crucified in front of his many contemplate the sculpture. It takes some time to
followers. In honour of his memory, early truly appreciate the luminous, sensitive quality
Christians built a small chapel on this spot, the of this piece and the masterful skill that went
same which would later serve as site for the into creating it. The sculpture stands behind a
world's greatest basilica. The majestic structure protective glass shield ever since a disturbed
can hold up to 60,000 people and was built individual tried to destroy it with a hammer in
under Emperor Constantine during a time in 1972.
which the Christian faith enjoyed an enormous
surge in power and influence. This is the seat of
 dinary and singular experience. The lovely garb has turned the soldiers into a popular tou-
Vatican gardens are also best seen from up here rist attraction. Posing for photographs has now
where their spectacular appearance can be most become an integral part of their job. Most of the
clearly observed and appreciated. soldiers don't seem to mind this task, fully
aware that their present duties are far more con-
The basilica's interior is also connected with the cerned with public relations than military
church's subterranean level, which is best des- defence. Recognising the soldiers is easy
cribed as an underground necropolis. The most enough, since all of them wear a pair of unmis-
celebrated of all the burial sites is Saint Peter's takable trousers that button below the knee and
tomb, which supposedly marks the exact spot a typical, long-sleeved jacket (regardless of the
where he was buried. The area also serves as the season) with blue, yellow and red stripes. It was
final resting place for many past pontiffs. One long believed that Michelangelo designed the
of the most frequently visited tombs at this time colourful uniform, but that is, in fact, nothing
belongs to John Paul II. It is very brightly lit, more than a popular myth. The uniform
which means that it is immediately recognisa- currently worn by the Guard wasn't introduced
ble. Donations are always welcome and gene- until 1915.
rously provided, judging from the contents of
the small basket in front of the tomb. THE VATICAN MUSEUMS
However, the glass doesn't hamper visibility in
the slightest and taking photographs of this In addition to visiting the basilica, all visitors The entrance to the Vatican Museums is located
beautiful piece is not a problem. who wish to do so may meet the Pope in person. in the back of the basilica. The museums hold
Of course, this can only take place by appoint- one of the most valuable and spectacular art
BERNINI'S BALDACHIN ment; a papal audience must be requested at collections worldwide, cultivated and carefully
least one week ahead of time. Appointments maintained over centuries. The pieces were
At the very centre of the basilica, immediately can be solicited at the Preffettura della Casa acquired, directly commissioned by the church
below the monumental cupola, you find Pontificia, located immediately to the right of or received as gifts. The art itself isn't the only
Bernini's Baldachin. This enormous, bronze basilica's bronze doors, by telephone at 06 69 thing worth seeing; the space, consisting of
baldachin (a part of which was originally in the 88 46 31, by fax at 06 69 88 58 63 or in writing innumerable hallways, gallery spaces and mag-
Pantheon) measures 29 metres in height and (please send your request to the Preffeturra's nificent rooms, is equally as impressive. If you
covers the most sacred section of the church, mailing address: Preffeturra della Casa wish to take in every piece displayed in these
the legendary, final resting place of Saint Peter. Pontifícia, 00120 de Città del Vaticano). Papal rooms, be prepared to spend at least an entire
A visit to the tomb, located down a flight of audiences take place every Wednesday at 11am day in the museums.
stairs in the basilica's subterranean level, is also in the basilica. The only exceptions are when
included in a later section of this guide. the Pope is travelling and during the months of If your art intake requires a more defined struc-
July and August when audiences are held at the ture, you can opt for one of the many routes.
The baldachin covers the main altar, and the Castel Gandolfo, the Pope's summer residence. Each one is marked with a different colour indi-
most eye-catching elements are the two, spiral cating the pieces that can be seen along the way.
columns that support it. The columns have been THE SWISS GUARD The main attraction for most visitors is the
the subject of many, differing interpretations. impressive Sistine Chapel. Unfortunately, the
The majority of experts, however, agree that The Swiss Guard has been the military unit in popularity of Michelangelo's masterpiece
Bernini intended the columns as a symbolic charge of Vatican City security since 1505, means that the chapel is usually rather crowded.
reference to those that supported Christ in the the year in which it was founded by Pope Julius Nevertheless, a visit to this astonishing place is
Temple of Solomon. Next to the baldachin is a II. Pope Julius II considered a military unit almost obligatory - no one should miss the
small figure of Saint Peter, facing a long queue dedicated solely to the protection of the pope chance to see Michelangelo's masterful murals.
of devout followers. You will notice that the vitally important. During its formation, the The ceiling vividly portrays episodes from the
figure shows a high degree of wear and tear, the Guard first recruited Swiss mercenaries, consi- Genesis, and the main wall depicts the horrors
result of millions of hands touching it over the dered some of the finest infantry personnel at of the Last Judgement.
years. the time. The Guard consists of 100 soldiers: Many of the other gallery spaces and rooms
four officers, twenty-three soldiers of mid-level contain excellent collections of ancient Italian
Against the wall of the apse, close to the balda- rank, two drummers, one chaplain and seventy maps, tapestries, candelabra, ecclesiastical and
chin, stands the Cattedra Petra. Saint Peter halberdiers. The halberdiers are specifically noble furniture and invaluable Greek and
supposedly sat in this gilded, wooden chair trained to use a rather strange weapon, the hal- Roman sculptures. The Gallery of Candelabra
when he held his first sermon, surrounded by a berd, which ends in a lance point and has an axe
gathering of faithful Christians. The many head along one side.
naves of the basilica showcase several statues
of saints, as enormous and monumental in size In order to join the Swiss Guard, applicants also
and character as everything else in this church, have to meet certain prerequisites. Soldiers
and holy relics. One of the most famous relics is have to be male, Swiss and between the ages of
the notorious Longinos lance, the weapon used 19 and 30. Furthermore, soldiers must measure
by its namesake soldier to confirm that Christ more than 174 centimetres in height, be unma-
was dead. rried and have completed basic training in the
Swiss Army. It goes without saying that all sol-
You can also visit the cupola of the basilica (at diers applying to the Guard must belong to the
an additional charge). The ascent is arduous Catholic faith.
(the cupola is of considerable height and there
is no elevator) but the stunning view from the Nowadays, the Swiss Guard is mostly symbolic
top is definitely worth the exhausting trip. in character. In addition to their police duties,
Before tackling this trek, make sure that the day the Guard is responsible for supervising and
is clear. If you happen to visit the Vatican in enforcing proper conduct in the areas within
winter, wait until 6pm before heading up. and surrounding Saint Peter's Square and the
Witnessing the sunset up here is a truly extraor- Basilica. Furthermore, their history and unusual
is worth visiting for two reasons. Firstly, the te the paintings, but in the end, the almost
pieces themselves are spectacular, and A visit to the Museums wouldn't be complete superhuman effort was worth it: the paintings,
secondly, the windows offer a magnificent view without a stop at the Borgia Apartment. The which depict episodes of the Genesis, are some
on to the Vatican Gardens. Pope John Paul II Borgias were one of the most powerful families of the most magnificent art pieces the world has
kept a cabbage garden on the grounds. Being in Italy during the Renaissance. In fact, Cesar ever known. The scenes include the Creation of
Polish, he reserved a special fondness for this Borgia was the son of Pope Alexander VI, but Adam and Eve, the Flood, the Banishment from
crucial element of his native cuisine. It isn't for obvious reasons he was always referred to the Garden of Eden and many biblical charac-
known whether his successor, Benedict XVI, as his nephew. This section contains some inte- ters, such as the Prophets, Sibyls and several
has maintained the vegetable garden or if his resting, ancient frescoes as well as a rather unu- Nudes carrying medallions with inscriptions
German origins have brought about any chan- sual collection of modern art, including pieces from the Book of Kings.
ges to the agricultural practices. by artists such as Paul Klee, Francis Bacon and
Max Ernst. The series of paintings are almost overwhel-
Another highlight are the Stanze of Raphael ming. The eye is not granted even a moment's
(Raphael's Rooms), four official papal cham- This route comes to an end at the Vatican rest, at times creating an almost unbearable sen-
bers decorated by the artist and his school. Library and leads out into a pleasant patio. The sory overload (a feeling that has even been
Raphael commenced his work on the rooms at patio also connects with the Chiaramonti given a scientific name - the Stendhal
the same time that Michelangelo was working Museum and the Pio-Clementine Museum, Syndrome). Michelangelo started without a
on the Sistine Chapel. The Room of both of which contain vast collections of inva- precise vision of the final work, painting as
Heliodorus, for example, was completed by luable objects. In one of the patios, you come ideas came to him, guided solely by his immen-
Raphael between 1512 and 1514 in honour of across the famous figure of Laocoon. The piece se artistic genius. There exists a noticeable dif-
Pope Julius II, who even appears in one of the dates back to the 1st century A.D. but wasn't ference between the earlier, more modest and
paintings. The Expulsion of Heliodorus, one of discovered until the 16th century. The sculpture restrained section of the ceiling, and the later
the most famous paintings, symbolises a papal depicts the famous Trojan priest and his two half, in which the colours are far more vivid and
victory against an invasion of Italy. Sometimes sons as he battles a pair of enormous serpents. the figures more imposing. It is almost as if
the pontiffs' representation in the paintings is Michelangelo stopped midway and decided to
quite prominent, such as in the fresco The Before reaching the exit, you can choose to visit shift the style of his great work, perhaps reali-
Liberation of Saint Peter in which Pope Julius a number of other fascinating collections. sing the immensely moving effect it would pro-
II appears as a saint. The Room of the Amongst these are the Egyptian Collection, duce in those who gaze upon it.
Segnatura, which is where the Papal Council dedicated entirely to this ancient civilisation,
meets to sign official documents, is adorned the Etruscan Collection and the collection in the One of the most heart-wrenching paintings is
with philosophical allegories and references. Gregorian Profane Museum, all of which are the scene of the Last Judgement that
The Room of the Fire in the Borgo pays homa- located within the same area. A stop at the Michelangelo painted onto the chapel's main
ge to the fire of 847 which, according to legend, famous Pinacoteca, which could easily qualify wall. Many experts believe that this is the cor-
was miraculously put out by Pope Leo IV as a museum in its own right and showcases nerstone of the chapel and that all of the other
simply by making the sign of the cross. paintings by Giotto, Lippi, Leonardo da Vinci, paintings revolve around this one, despite the
Raphael, Caravaggio and many others, can
serve as the perfect conclusion to your visit.

The most memorable way to leave the

Museums is via the famous Simonetti
Stairway, a spectacular, spiral staircase that has
become yet another symbol of Vatican City.

THE SISTINE CHAPEL

The Sistine Chapel is, without a doubt, the most

outstanding and world-renowned feature of the
Vatican Museums. Michelangelo dedicated
many years of his life to painting the chapel's
awe-inspiring ceiling. He painted alone, clim-
bing up scaffolding and often using only one
hand. It would take four, long years to comple-
fact that it was commissioned years after the on this castle, which towers over the Tiber
ceiling had been completed. The artist spent six River, began in the year 123 A.D.. Nowadays
years on the piece, from 1535 until 1541, and it is considered one of the most well-known
created a stunning painting that shows the good and recognisable Roman landmarks, no easy
souls ascending to heaven and the condemned task considering the immense architectural
being dragged into hell. The force of the work wealth the city has to offer.
and vivid character of the figures is deeply
moving, offering insight into Michelangelo's The castle is a regal fortress crowned by the
pessimistic worldview as well as his great artis- figure of an angel. More than mere adorn-
tic gift. ment, this angel is actually the subject of a
legend. The story comes from a time when the
Although Michelangelo's paintings are what the bubonic plague was decimating the city, and
chapel is most famous for, the structure would processions solemnly marched through the
still be a wonderful work of art without them. streets, praying for an end to the epidemic.
The paintings representing scenes from the life One day Pope Gregory the Great saw an angel
of Christ and Moses were created by artists as appear at the very top of the castle. He inter-
renowned as Botticelli, Perugino, preted the heavenly apparition as a sign that
Ghirlandaio and Signorelli, four of the grea- the city's days of suffering were coming to an
test masters of Italian Renaissance art. end. He ordered the construction of a chapel at
the very top of the mausoleum to remember
Taking photographs in the Sistine Chapel is for- and honour the event.
bidden. However, there is no sign advising visi-
tors of this fact, and the security guards are far The castle now houses a museum, but its func-
too busy looking out for other transgressions, tions have varied quite dramatically over the
such as making sure that visitors don't touch the centuries. The castle had been originally con-
walls, sit on the floor or speak to loudly. ceived as a mausoleum for Adrian, which was
Therefore, when a flash goes off, a voice comes indeed its first function. From that time on, the
over the speaker system, advising visitors in all castle was used for many, different purposes
imaginable languages that photography is for- by each successive pontiff. Due to its structu-
bidden in the chapel - by then, however, it is re, the castle often served as a fortress and
already too late. refuge for the pontiffs during times of conflict,
and it was also turned into a prison at one
The Sistine Chapel is also the place where the point. It now houses the military museum
Conclave meets after a pontiff's death to decide and has several halls adorned with frescoes
on a successor. from the 16th century.

CASTEL SANT'ANGELO

If you leave Saint Peter's Square and head

straight down the Via della Conciliazione, you
come to the Castel Sant'Angelo. Construction

INFO

Musei Vaticani
Viale Vaticano, 100
Tel. 06 69884947
Open Monday-Friday from 8:45am-3:20pm and Saturdays from 8:45am-12:20pm, March-October. Open Monday-Saturday from 8:45am-
12:20pm and on the last Sunday of the month from 8:45am-12:20pm, November-February.
General admission: 12€. Reduced admission: 8€.
www.vatican.va

Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo

Lungotevere Castello, 50
Tel. 06 68119111
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9am-8pm.
General admission: 5€. Reduced admission: 2,50€
www.beniculturali.it
 Via Veneto and Villa Borghese Route 08

The area that stretches from the illustrious Fontana delle Api or the fountain of the bees, older ones can enjoy a quiet afternoon next to
Via Veneto to the enormous, lush gardens of was erected in honour of the famous Barberini the lakes or read in the shade of the ancient
the Villa Borghese is one of the most elegant clan whose family symbol was this particular trees that dot the park. The daytime version of
in Rome. Via Vittorio Veneto is more than a insect. The bee can be found on all of their the park is family-friendly and peaceful - quite
street, more than a collection of elegant cafés family emblems and coat of arms, which a striking contrast to the scene that plays out
and upscale fashion - it is a symbol for every- embellish several facades throughout the city. during the nocturnal hours when it becomes a
thing associated with the Roman dolce vita. It The Palazzo Barberini, located on the square, popular hang-out for prostitutes and transves-
is a cornerstone of an entire lifestyle, one that is noteworthy for its gallery, the Galleria tites.
has been reflected on the silver screen time Nazionale d'Arte Antica, which includes pie-
and again, especially in the films of director ces by artists like Raphael, Caravaggio, Guido Villa Borghese is also home to two of the cit-
Federico Fellini. The films, however, also Reni and Filippo Lippi. y's most fascinating museums. The Galleria
borrowed from real life, amplifying the legend Borghese is the more popular of the two and
of Via Veneto and carrying it around the One of Rome's most peculiar churches isn't far contains one of Rome's most magnificent
world. It is a case of life imitating art and vice from Piazza Barberini. The Santa Maria collections, carefully put together by the cardi-
versa. In its heyday, Via Veneto was a play- della Concezione Church isn't particularly nal Scipione Borghese. The museum has two
ground for well-heeled intellectuals, wealthy interesting to look at; in fact, its exterior appe- floors of which the first is dedicated to sculp-
socialites, celebrities and all of the city's arance is rather austere. It is what lies beneath ture and the second to painting. The latter floor
"beautiful" people. But social trends and lifes- the church, deep inside the subterranean level,
tyles change, even in the eternal city. Although that is far more interesting. Here you find a
the street has maintained its elegant veneer, it cemetery of the capuchin order of monks, a
has lost much of its social splendour. Via place that isn't for the faint-hearted. The skele-
Veneto is still a lovely street for a stroll, taking tons of about 4,000 capuchin monks have been
you from Piazza Barberini to the Villa used to decorate the walls and the interior of
Borghese, past upscale cafés and exclusive the chapels, giving the cemetery a somewhat
boutiques. But a sense of nostalgia lingers in eerie and yet undeniably gripping atmosphere.
the air, noticeable in how everything about the Via Veneto comes to an end at the Villa
street reflects and remembers the glory of its Borghese, one of Rome's many splendid parks.
past. The park once covered 75 hectares and was
named after one of its owners, the famous car-
The Piazza Barberini is adorned with two dinal Scipione Borghese Caffarelli. The state
beautiful fountains by the baroque master took charge of the park in 1902 and turned it
Bernini. The more spectacular of the two is the into a beautiful collection of public gardens. It
Fontana del Tritone, which depicts a triton is an ideal spot for an afternoon out with the
blowing into a meticulously rendered sea- entire family. The zoo located inside the park
shell. The second fountain, known as the is bound to thrill younger visitors whereas
is lined with paintings by masters such as museum also hosts several temporary shows
Raphael, Botticelli and Titian. The gallery's throughout the year.
greatest pride, however, resides in two magni-
ficent sculptures by Bernini, Pluto and In the nearby Villa Giulia, you can visit the
Proserpina and Apollo and Daphne. Despite Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia.
the undeniable artistic richness of this collec- The exhibition consists of archaeological trea-
tion, it was once even more glorious. The sures from the Etruscan era found in the north
collection lost some of its lustre in the early of Lazio and Umbria. The collection includes
19th century when more than 200 pieces were a wide variety of objects, ranging from quoti-
sold to the Louvre in Paris. dian items to remains of carriages and other
traditional pieces that offer an in-depth look at
The Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna the Etruscan civilisation. There is even a per-
also forms part of the museum complex in the fectly reconstructed Etruscan tomb amongst
Villa Borghese gardens. The museum is loca- the many displays. The most famous and
ted in a building with a neoclassic facade, built valuable piece is the Sarcófago degli Sposi
for the 1911 World Fair in Rome. The perma- (the Sarcophagus of the Wives), which dates
nent collection includes paintings and sculptu- back to the 6th century B.C.
re from the 19th and 20th centuries, and the

INFO

Galleria Borghese
Piazzale del Museo Borghese
Tel. 06 32810
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9 to 19h
General admission 8,50 €. Reduced admission 5,25 €.
www.galleriaborghese.it

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea

Viale delle Belle Arti, 131
Tel. 06 322981
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 8:30 to 19:30h
General admission 6,50 €. Reduced admission 3,25 €
www.gnam.arti.beniculturali.it/gnamco.htm

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia

Piazale di Villa Giulia, 9
Tel. 06 3200562
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 8:30 to 19:30h
General admission 4 €. Reduced admission 2 €
www.beniculturali.it
 Other interesting sites in Rome Route 09

TERMES DI CARACALLA an impressive glimpse into ancient customs, truction. At the height of Ancient Rome's glory,
but at night the area is mostly known for pros- the wall measured 20 km in length and had 18
The area surrounding the ancient Roman city titution. portals that led into the city.
centre contains other fascinating sites worth
visiting. The Piazza Numa Pompilio, close to In their heyday the baths could accommodate A construction project is currently underway to
Circo Massimo, is most famous for the magni- more than 1,600 people and were adorned ensure the preservation of the ancient city wall,
ficent Termes di Caracalla, the most famous with colourful marble and gilded stones. All which means that walking along the top is no
and largest baths in all of Ancient Rome. that remains of the glorious decor are the longer permitted. In the past, this was one of
Construction on the baths began in the year mosaics, which have resisted both time and the the most pleasant ways of getting to know this
frequent plundering of the baths. They cover bit of Roman history and hopefully the restora-
exactly the same area as they did thousands of tion process will make this a possibility once
years ago, silent witnesses to the passing cen- again in the future. After crossing through the
turies. Porta San Sebastiano, the only walking
option in this part of the city is along the Via
The ruins of the buildings provide clues as to Appia Antica. Sundays are the best day to tac-
their previous dimensions. Some of the impres- kle this section of the city since a sizeable
sive vaults, measuring 30 metres in height, are stretch of the street is closed to traffic. On other
still standing. The only evidence of other spa- days, a stroll down the Via Appia Antica can be
ces, such as the gym, library, leisure centre and anything but pleasant since the sidewalk is
caldarium (a hot water and steam bath), are the narrow and uncomfortable and the traffic is
explanatory panels. But with just a little imagi- incessant and prone to the notoriously fast and
nation, you can look onto the ruins and imagi- reckless driving Roman motorists are famous
ne what life was like in the past and the daily for.
rituals that took place here.
History buffs will be delighted by this walk,
VIA APPIA ANTICA because many of the key landmarks of
Christian Rome can be found along this road.
The Via di Porta San Sebastiano begins at the The first noteworthy site is the Domine Quo
212 A.D. and although the passing centuries Termes di Caracalla and leads to the portal of Vadis Church. The church's peculiar name is
have stripped them of much of their splendour, the same name. Nowadays, the portal stands at derived from an exchange between Peter and
a visit still provides a clear picture of how truly a busy intersection where the many, different Christ. Peter encountered Christ at this point
magnificent they once were. Nowadays, the streets running parallel to the ancient city wall on the road and asked him the famous question
site is used for concert performances and other converge. In the past, however, this portal was "Lord, where are you going?". The footprints
events. One of the most famous is the celebra- one of the city's landmarks. The Museo delle imprinted into the church's floor were suppo-
ted opera festival that stages shows at this his- Mura di Roma (Museum of the Roman City sedly left there by Jesus Christ as he walked
toric spot during the months of July and Wall) is located next to the portal and houses towards Rome.
August. Other sections of the baths have fallen all of the documentation that has been found
on harder times. During the day they still offer and collected with regards to the wall's cons- At this point, the most interesting route to
 Shelley and the son of Goethe.

Nowadays, the Monte Testaccio is one of the

city's liveliest areas, both during the day, when
shops and schools are open and buzzing with
activity, and at night. It is a popular nightlife
spot, filled with theatres, cinemas and dance
clubs, some of which are located inside the old,
converted warehouses that once stocked the
olive oil and wine traded by imperial mer-
chants.

EUR

Ancient Rome and the Renaissance are the two

periods that come to mind when you mention
Roman history and architecture. But there are
other historical eras that exist in this city and
follow is Via Ardeatina (which later intersects 10 B.C. and is in an astoundingly good state can be read and reconstructed through the
with the Via Appia Antica again), the site of the considering its age. architecture they left behind. During the reign
most important catacombs that are open to the of Dictator Benito Mussolini, many under- or
public. The catacombs are underground fune- The historical interest of the route reaches its undeveloped areas in Rome where given new
rary chambers, built for the celebration of zenith here; the remaining stretch still contains investment and infrastructure. Other areas
Christian burials. Along Via Ardeatina, you can a few, scattered sites worth visiting, but they weren't built up from scratch; instead, older
visit the catacombs of Domitilla, San Callisto are of increasingly less historical importance. architecture was destroyed to make way for
and, further to the south, San Sebastiano. The later stretch of the Via Appia Antica is also new construction that met the needs of the
a well-known and popular lover's lane. As dusk governing powers and celebrated the futurist
It is often claimed that the catacombs were sets in, couples park their cars here, taking aesthetic championed by the fascist regime.
built as hiding places for persecuted Christians. advantage of this secluded corner to enjoy This gave birth to some of the city's most cele-
Whereas it is true that Christians used the cata- some romantic moments away from prying brated streets, such as the Via dei Fori
combs to elude their persecutors, this was not eyes. Imperiali (between the Forums), the street
the main function of the catacombs. Roman around the Coliseum and the Piazza Vittorio
law at the time explicitly forbade burials within MONTE TESTACCIO Emmanuelle II. The latter required the destruc-
the city; the catacombs were built underground tion of an entire stretch of land between the
in order to evade the law and hide the funerals The Monte Testaccio is located across the Forums so that Mussolini could perform his
from public view. river from Trastevere, on the other side of the military parades in a space that symbolised the
Ponte Sublicio. The Via Marmorata leads up to glorious power of Ancient Rome.
The Vicolo delle Sette Chiese will bring you this popular area, which is rather different from
back to the Via Appia Antica, which now con- the urban centre along the Via del Corso and In addition to these streets, Rome has an entire
tinues in a straight trajectory towards the Circo the Quirinale, allowing you to experience yet neighbourhood that reflects this particular
di Massenzio. If you are doing this walk in the another facet of this incredibly diverse city. architectural style. EUR, the neighbourhood's
summer, it is important to bring along water name, stands for Esposizione Universale di
and other refreshments since the itinerary is Monte Testaccio is the name of a hill (nowa- Roma, an event that was planned for 1942 as a
long, the weather is bound to be hot and during days a park) that served as the entrance to the celebration of Mussolini's twenty years in
certain hours of the day the bars and restau- ancient Roman city. During the imperial age, power. The exposition never took place due to
rants along the street are closed. The route's this was a predominantly commercial area, the advent of World War II, which also signifi-
closing attraction, the Circo di Massenzio, known for its wine and olive oil trade. Later on, cantly delayed construction on the EUR pro-
makes the effort and the exhaustion well worth during medieval times, the hill was site of the ject. The neighbourhood wasn't completed
it. This massive racetrack once seated 10,000 Goichi di Testaccio (the Testaccio Games), until the middle of the 20th century.
spectators, who gathered here to watch the which were presided over by the Pope. During
popular and emblematic chariot races. Another the course of the games, which usually inclu- The residential neighbourhood is well-connec-
interesting site in this area is the tomb of ded tournaments and animal races featuring ted with the city centre, both by bus and under-
Cecilia Metella, which dates back to the year bulls, bears and pigs, the Testaccio became the ground (there are two stations that serve EUR).
centre of city life.

Towards the end of the 19th century, Monte

Testaccio attracted many construction workers
and their families who built their homes on the
hill. Interestingly enough, the hill is now con-
sidered one of the most expensive residential
districts in all of Rome. The monuments on the
Monte Testaccio aren't of any particular histo-
rical importance, but they are amongst Rome's
most curious. One of area's most unusual
architectural pieces is the Pyramid of Caius
Cestius - a miniature version of the Egyptian
pyramids, built to house the remains of its
namesake, the city official Caius Cestius. The
Protestant cemetery is also located within
this area, home to the tombs of several renow-
ned individuals, such as the poets Keats and
The most representative landmark is the enormous, oddly shaped water tank, which is Museum) contains an impressive collection of
Palazzo della Civiltà del Laboro, which known by the nickname The Mushroom. The prehistoric tools from all of the four continents
translates as The Palace of Labour but is popu- upper section of the tank is taken up by a res- (Africa, Asia, Australia and America). The
larly referred to as the Square Coliseum. One taurant, which offers a spectacular view on to Museo della Civiltà Romana brings together
look at the facade, decorated with arched win- the city. a variety of artefacts from Ancient Rome,
dows reminiscent of the Coliseum and nume- including a number of models and different
rous statues, explains the nickname. Currently, The neighbourhood was built over many deca- reproductions. They are rather unusual in cha-
the building's interior is being renovated, but des, which means that not all of the sections racter, such as entire temple facades that have
the facade is perfectly visible and not affected reflect a fascist and militaristic aesthetic. been reconstructed in the museum or curious
by the work in progress. Taken together, the architectural complex is a documents, such as an edict issued by Emperor
reflection of Italy at its most modern, governed Diocletian regarding an unjustified price hike
When Rome hosted the Olympic Games in by a rigid, cool aesthetic consisting of straight during the imperial era.
1960, EUR captured the spotlight. It was tur- lines, glass, steel and concrete. It is a different
ned into the Olympic headquarters, chosen side of the eternal city, one that is perhaps far The Museo dell'Alto Medievo continues this
because of its perfect location outside of the from the first and most common impression journey back in time with a fascinating collec-
city centre and removed from heavy traffic, provided by guide books. However, it is as tion of medieval art and artefacts. The Museo
and the space it provided for building athletic much a part of Rome as the ancient ruins and delle Arti e Tradizioni Popolari (Museum of
facilities. During this time, the Pallazzo dello endows the city with yet another facet of its the Traditional and Popular Arts) provides a
Sport was constructed; a massive arena with unique personality. look at cultural traditions throughout Italy.
an athletic field that could accommodate Here you can find everything from traditional
20,000 people. It is still used nowadays, mostly However, the most interesting places in EUR artefacts and handicrafts to popular games and
for large events such as pop concerts or politi- are the museums. The Museo Nazionale even a perfectly reconstructed, authentic
cal conventions. Close by and visible from Preistorico-Etnografico Luigi Pigorini Venetian gondola.
most corners of the neighbourhood, stands an (National Prehistoric and Ethnographic
 City Beats: The Many Faces
City of Rome
Beats: The Many Faces of Rome
Italy is one of those countries that ins-
pire a lot of preconceived notions
about their national character. Even
people who have never set foot in the
country have opinions on what it
means to be Italian. This isn't all that
surprising considering that Italy is a
country that attracts millions of visi-
tors every year, has been depicted in
countless books and films and boasts
some of the most famous historical
monuments and illustrious art in the
world. And it must be said that buried
beneath every stereotype is a grain of
truth which tells you a lot about a
country and its people.

Within Italy, the Romans are the subject of streets. The Roman driving style tends to be amidst the ample nightlife possibilities. All of
more than a few stereotypes. Many people aggressive and there seems to be a glaring lack this goes to show that yet another popular
throughout the country choose to live in Rome, of traffic signs. Traffic lights exist but seem to notion about Rome is true. The city is best
but this popularity is a double-edged sword for exert no authority on drivers or pedestrians, enjoyed outside because that is where every-
the capital. Often Rome is seen as receiving turning rush hour traffic into something close thing happens.
greater recognition and privilege than other to mayhem. It is no wonder that many people
major cities, such as Milan, which also bring opt for motorcycles and bicycles, especially One thing that can be said about the Romans is
the country prestige and financial gain. Rome since the public transport system is sorely lac- that they know how to have fun. Generally spe-
is therefore often viewed with a certain degree king in efficiency despite numerous buses and aking, Romans tend to be cheerful and commu-
of suspicion by its fellow countrymen. trams and two underground lines that connect nicative. Roman men are especially fond of
the city. helping young female tourists travelling alone.
Meanwhile, the Romans seem rather unconcer- Strangely enough, most women are not the
ned with these political and administrative Luckily driving in traffic is just about the only least bit offended by this direct, undisguised
questions. It isn't that they don't care or fail to stressful experience you are likely to encounter flirtation. There is something light and unthre-
see the importance of these issues. Rather, they in Rome. Generally the Romans prefer to take atening about the approach that makes most of
realise that they are powerless to address them things easy. There always seems to be time for these encounters quite charming. Depending
and therefore prefer to avoid futile discussions a long chat or a good show. In the winter, on who you ask, the Romans are phlegmatic,
on the subject. Something, however, that does Romans tend to gather at cafés and trattorias. A boastful, unrefined and even rude or spontane-
provoke intense and passionate debate is foot- surprising number of Romans also have a pen- ous, cheerful, astute and very welcoming. As
ball. In addition to discussing the trials and tri- chant for the opera and the cinema. The best with all generalisations, the truth about the
bulations of Rome's two teams, Lazio and seasons in Rome, however, are spring and Romans probably lies somewhere between
Roma, diehard football lovers also follow the autumn. The weather is pleasant and warm these two extremes.
antics of Italy's many other stellar clubs such as enough for dinners outside, strolls in the park,
Milan's Inter and Turin's Juventus. Football is eating ice-cream in a quaint square or a leisu- Rome, like most cities, is largely defined by its
the undisputed king of national sports, and its rely shopping trip. After nightfall the city con- population. What is uniquely charming, howe-
fans can be found in just about every corner of tinues to buzz with activity, and you will have ver, is the attractive duality that characterises
the country. no problem finding something appealing the city's people. There is the traditional,
almost provincial, Rome with the classic
Romans have also developed a rather noncha- Italian mammas taking their children for a
lant attitude towards their past glory. The walk or the elderly sitting and chatting for
events immortalised in history books and hours in a sun-soaked square. And then there is
represented in celebrated monuments throug- the modern city, the dynamic and youthful
hout the city are simply another aspect of quo- Rome populated with young hipsters who are
tidian life. From a local perspective, the heart completely up to date on every trend and are
of Ancient Rome, which includes the Coliseum interested in design, fashion, style and all
and the Forums and attracts millions of tourists things cutting-edge.
every year, is primarily seen as a traffic night- The city is lively, at times even disorganised
mare to be avoided at rush hour. and chaotic. But whereas chaos can be unset-
tling in other places, in Rome it seems a natu-
The traffic is precisely one of those aforemen- ral and even enjoyable state of affairs. The
tioned infamous character traits that plague glory days of the Eternal City may be over, but
Rome relentlessly. Trying to get around Rome Rome has somehow managed to retain its
by car can turn into an odyssey, especially if charm, inviting visitors to let go and enjoy the
you are new to the city and unfamiliar with its fun.
 City Beats: Italian City
Cuisine
Beats: Italian Cuisine

Italian cuisine is one of the most popu-

lar worldwide, enjoying an unparalle-
led degree of international renown and
influence. Pasta, pizza, coffee and ice-
cream are delectable Italian staples that
can be enjoyed just about anywhere in
the world. Yet in spite of its ubiquitous
availability, the experience of having
Italian food in Rome is somehow uni-
que and inimitable.

Rome is famous for several traditional dishes, Rome. In those long gone days, drinking are reasonably priced and of excellent quality.
passed down through generations, which give excessive amounts of wine was seen as way of Another local product that must be mentioned
the common perception of Italian cooking a getting closer to the gods. Whether this was in is the cheese. Rome's most celebrated variety is
different twist. Romans take great pride in their fact true or not is debatable; after all, large the pecorino, a cheese that has taken on almost
local cuisine, precisely because it is relatively quantities of wine can make all sorts of things legendary proportions. According to some his-
unknown to foreigners. One of the great local seem quite divine. Nowadays, wine has taken torical accounts, pecorino was being produced
specialities is trippa alla romana, innards pre- on a more sedate role, and Italian varieties have as early as 227 B.C. Other Italian varieties that
pared with tomatoes and cheese and served in a gained a large, international following. form part of a traditional Roman cheese plate
variety of different sauces. Another popular Although regions like Tuscany produce outs- include parmesan, mozzarella de buffala, ricot-
item is the starter saltimbocca, small rolls of tanding wines, the most popular fare in Rome ta, fontina, gorgonzola, provolone, mascarpone
beef and ham, which can be found at almost is a locally produced variety called Frascati. and asiago. Cheese is without a doubt one of
every restaurant. Purchasing wine at a local winery is an afforda- Italy's greatest claims to fame, and one of their
ble and recommendable shopping expedition. most celebrated national products. Rome is
Visiting a local market helps explain why Compared to other European countries, espe- home to many traditional alimentarias (small
Romans have such a special fondness for vege- cially northern ones where a mere glass of stores selling food products) where you can
tables and legumes. Vegetable specialities vary wine is often a luxury item, the wines in Italy find an ample selection of cheeses.
greatly depending on the season and are built
around healthy ingredients like artichoke In addition to these quintessentially Roman
hearts, peppers, aubergines, courgettes, toma- delicacies, you will probably want to indulge
toes and asparagus. Many dishes, such as the in some pasta or pizza. Rome is home to a rich
carciofi alla romana (garlic and mint stuffed selection of pasta, including mainstream fare
artichokes served in a casserole), feature the like spaghetti, ravioli, fusilli and gnocchi as
vegetable as the main attraction. Vegetables are well as more unusual varieties like bucattini,
also a popular side dish, accompanying most tagliatelle and rigatone, all served with an
traditional meals. These dishes tend to be rich equally varied array of sauces. You can opt for
and substantial in the winter and light and aro- a classic sauce like carbonara, pesto or
matic in the summer. Bolognese or venture into less familiar terri-
tory and try one of the many local specialities.
When it comes to drinking in Italy, wine is the Roman pasta is a versatile dish, served cold in
unquestioned and unrivalled beverage of choi- salads, hot in soups or as an accompaniment to
ce. The ancient god Bacchus already bore testi- either meat or vegetable dishes. In fact, vegeta-
mony to the Roman's deep appreciation for rians will be quite elated at the myriad options
wine, inspiring the term "bacchanalian" to des- Roman cuisine has in store for them.
cribe the hedonistic, wine drenched celebra-
tions that were commonplace in Ancient Although pizza originally came from Naples,
the Romans have embraced the dish and made espresso is a strong, dark shot of pure coffee, The gelateria or ice-cream shop is a Roman
it their own. Roman pizza is notable for its the macchiato is a short coffee with a dash of institution, as ubiquitous as ancient ruins. One
enormous size and thin, crispy crust and is tra- milk and the caffe latte is a traditional tall cof- of the most celebrated names in Roman gelato
ditionally prepared in a wood fire oven. Warm fee with milk. And then there is the cappucci- is Giolitti, a chain that handcrafts some of the
weather allows for a truly Roman dining expe- no, the ultimate symbol of Italian coffee cultu- best, traditional ice-cream in the city and ser-
rience: outdoors on a terrace, at a restaurant re, a product that has been exported and ves a wide variety of flavours. Ice-cream isn't
that is preferably somewhat removed from the embraced around the world. Drinking coffee is as much a dessert here as it is a treat for just
touristy city centre. A place that caters to the a social act in Rome. In addition to being a tra- about any occasion. The servings tend to be
local population guarantees two things: reaso- ditional breakfast item, coffee is seen as the generous and, if requested, accompanied by a
nable prices and an authentic and relaxed perfect end note to a meal or an ideal compa- large topping of panna (whipped cream) at no
atmosphere. If you get peckish during your nion for an afternoon chat with friends. Many, extra charge.
sight-seeing adventures, you can always stop of course, also think coffee is best enjoyed with One thing is absolutely certain - eating in
for a slice of pizza al taglio, local pizza served a cigarette, something that is becoming increa- Rome is a genuine pleasure. Food becomes
in individual slices. Servings are priced accor- singly difficult to do in Rome. Smoking is for- more than mere nourishment, providing you
ding to weight (usually costing approximately bidden inside all enclosed establishments with both a cultural and culinary experience.
0.90 € each), making this a delicious and affor- unless they have a specifically designated smo- Roman cuisine contains all the elements of the
dable snack. king area. This is no hindrance, of course, traditional Mediterranean diet, prepared with
Rome is also famous for two other tantalising while the weather is warm and sunny, but once an exceptional degree of imagination and a
treats: coffee and ice-cream. When it comes to the temperatures drop the city becomes a passion for flavour. The result is an ample
coffee, the Italians claim to serve the best somewhat less friendly place for smokers. selection of dishes that are unmistakably
blends in the world, prepared in a number of One treat that has to be enjoyed regardless of Roman and are bound to please even the most
different and imaginative ways. The classic the season is the delicious Roman ice-cream. discerning palate.
 City Beats: The Roman
CityGay Scene
Beats: The Roman Gay Scene

When mentioning the gay scene in

Rome, most people are somewhat sur-
prised to hear that there is one. After all,
isn't the Italian capital the primary
stronghold of the Catholic Church and
therefore a rather uninviting destination
for gays and lesbians? This is actually a
complete misconception. In fact, Rome
is an unusually open, lively and tolerant
city. Romans generally enjoy having
fun, both with their local crowd and
visitors, and a person's sexual orienta-
tion seems to have little bearing on the
matter.

Despite the Catholic Church's stance on the source of information on these and other topics. delicious Italian specialities, the staff is famous
issue, Rome is a city brimful of options for the If you prefer to venture into the city armed with for being very attentive and helpful. So if you
gay community. The most important gay cultu- useful and fun information, stop in at the need any tips on where to head for postprandial
ral association in Rome is the Circolo Mario Libreria Babele, located at Via dei Banchi drinks, don't hesitate to ask! ComingOut on Via
Mieli di Cultura Omossesuale. The association Vecchi, 116. The bookshop has an ample selec- San Giovanni in Laterano 8, just around the cor-
publishes a free, monthly magazine entitled tion of books, magazines and digital informa- ner from the Coliseum, is an excellent spot that
AUT, which contains information on current tion that cover a wide variety of interests. You attracts a fun-loving, young crowd. Hangar (Via
events and health issues such as AIDS preven- can also purchase a guide to the local gay scene in Selci, 69) in the Testaccio district, is an exclu-
tion as well as a programme of cultural events, containing a lot of pertinent information as well sively gay club. Alibi (Via di Monte Testaccio,
entertainment and leisure. Circolo Mario Mieli as bar, club and event listings. 74), located in the same area, is open to a diver-
is also responsible for organising the city's Gay One of the most popular gay-themed restaurants se public but does attract a predominantly gay
Pride Day, which usually takes place in June. is Edoardo II, located at Vicolo Margana 14, crowd.
Their website, www.mariomieli.it, is a great close to Piazza Venezia. In addition to serving
 USEFUL
ADVICE

Documentation sites have a lot of stairs (even in the outlying atly in style and quality, ranging from tiny to
Citizens of the EU do not need a visa to travel areas), making wheelchair access somewhat absolutely luxurious. As always, your personal
to Italy and may remain in the country for an difficult. criteria and budget will determine the choice of
unlimited amount of time. A valid identity card apartment.
or passport is required to enter the country. Where to stay
Rome has a wide array of accommodation The Centro Storico (historic centre) is full of
Language options, allowing each visitor to make a choice hotels of all categories, ranging from extrava-
Italian is the official language, but given based on personal taste, location, length of stay gantly luxurious to more modest fare. This area
Rome's popularity as a tourist destination it and, it goes without saying, budget. contains most of the monuments, museums and
isn't difficult to get by in most other languages. tourist attractions, making it a good option for
English is probably the best alternative if you A cheap hotel (Italian pensione) is a popular anyone keen on saving time and seeking a qua-
don't speak the local language, and anyone option amongst budget travellers. Most of lity accommodation. However, you should be
with a good grasp of Spanish will have no pro- these hotels can be found around the Termini cautious when selecting a hotel. Roman hotels
blem understanding and communicating with train station. This is not a particularly recom- are classified according to stars (1 to 5), but the
most Italians. mendable area, particularly the southern part at stars are not always directly related to the qua-
night, and it definitely doesn't exude the lity and comfort provided by the accommoda-
Currency romantic charm most people seek when visi- tion, but rather to the number of services offe-
The Euro is Italy's official currency. ting Rome. red, even if those leave much to be desired.

Climate If you are on a tight budget, you can also opt It would be impossible to list all of the hotels in
The climate is Mediterranean and therefore for a youth hostel, a very popular choice Rome. We have therefore decided to mention a
generally mild, but it isn't unusual for tempera- amongst young people who prefer spending few that stand out within their respective cate-
tures to climb over 40ºC at the height of the their money on enjoying the city and only want gories. Any discussion of the most luxurious
summer. Most of the rainfall comes in spring a decent place to sleep. The most well-known hotels in the city must include the Hassler
and autumn, but the heat can provoke classic youth hostel in the city is the Ostello Foro Villa Medici, a five-star luxury hotel located
summer downpours during the month of Italico, located on Viale delle Olimpiadi, 61, on the Piazza Trinità dei Monti, next to the
August. In terms of what to pack, make sure to which is a comfortable place to stay at, albeit Spanish Steps. Although the hotel's luxury and
bring along a hat or sunglasses, especially if slightly outside the city centre. The YWCA on decor might strike some as excessively deca-
you are travelling in the summer, since the Via Cesare Balbo, 4 is closer to all the tourist dent, it is one of the city's treasures and has
days are usually bright and sunny. The tempe- attractions, but it locks up at midnight, mea- housed illustrious guests like the royal families
ratures tend to cool down later in the day, ning that night owls should definitely cross it of Sweden, Greece and Great Britain. Other
making for very pleasant evenings. If you visit off their list. less aristocratic but no less glamorous guests
Rome in the winter, bring along a coat. Even have included Hollywood legends like
though the city generally has mild temperatu- The Bed & Breakfast model has also caught Elizabeth Taylor and Francis Ford Coppola.
res throughout the year, it can become a tad on in the Italian capital, especially since the This hotel isn't within everyone's budget of
chilly in the winter. Jubilee brought countless pilgrims to the city in course, but taking a look around doesn't cost a
the year 2000. The hotels and apartments cent and the entrance lobby is definitely a sight
Business Hours couldn't accommodate the massive influx of worth seeing.
Although business hours are getting longer and visitors, which is why many locals opened
longer during the day, most shops are still their homes to visitors. This is usually a com- Another high budget hotel is the Holiday Inn
generally open from 9am to 1pm and from fortable option, but it does mean having to Crowne Piazza Minerva, located in the squa-
3:30pm to 7:30pm. Almost all shops are open adjust to the rules and schedule set by the re of the same name, close to the Pantheon and
on Saturdays, and a few are closed on owners of the house. The prices tend to be che- Bernini's Elefantino statue. Situated within a
Mondays. Since tourism is active throughout aper than those of a hotel and usually include a real 17th century palace, the hotel sports an
the year, most businesses will close for their bedroom and breakfast in a clean and usually interior redesigned with great aplomb by the
summer holidays during the month of August. pleasant environment. artist Paolo Portoghesi. The rooms are spa-
cious and exquisitely decorated down to the
Disabled People If you are planning a longer stay or are trave- smallest detail. The splendid Venetian glass
Comfortable access for disabled people is still lling in a group, renting an apartment might that adorns the inside of the hotel is truly an
a pending challenge for the city. Except for the be the ideal option. Apartments are usually not artwork in and of itself.
Vatican, where streets and museums have cheap, especially if located in the centre or
generally been adapted to the needs of physi- popular tourist areas, but they are a comforta- The hotel Lord Byron, located at Via G. de
cally disabled people, a stroll through the rest ble form of accommodation and as they inclu- Notaris, 5, lies beyond the Villa Borghese and
of the city can still prove rather complicated. de a kitchen, you can always save money on therefore a little outside the centre. The hotel
Most churches, museums and archaeological meals by eating at home. Apartments vary gre- was built in what was once an old monastery
and thus combines luxury with absolute tran- Pietro and the Castel Sant'Angelo. nightlife, particularly as far as cocktail bars are
quillity. In spite of the steep rates, it is difficult concerned. Testaccio is seen as a more alterna-
to find an available room since the hotel only When it comes to desserts, Rome is nothing tive place that skirts mainstream trends, where-
has 47. Even if you can't book a room, you can short of a paradise. It will be almost impossible as the areas around Piazza Navona and the
always dine at the hotel restaurant, Le Jardin, to resist having an Italian ice-cream, and if you Pantheon house several establishments that are
one of the most prestigious in all of Rome. want to indulge in a true classic, then opt for as elegant as they are hip.
the Gelateria Giolitti. Here you will find a
The further out from the centre you get, the thousand different flavours in almost as many Shopping
easier it is to find hotels with reasonable rates. different forms (cups, cones, etc.). You will Shopping in Rome is diverse, fun and at times
For example, the Hotel Lady, in the outskirts have to get your ice-cream to go since the exhausting. Italian fashion ranks amongst the
of the Vatican, is a budget hotel that has main- tables tend to be reserved for guests having a best, but Rome is a city where you can find just
tained much of its original décor and charm. more substantial treat (slices of cake, etc.). about anything, especially if you are looking
Located at Via Germanico, 198, this no-frills Therefore, the vast majority of people simply for quality rather than the best deal. The most
hotel features a pleasant ambiance and spo- sit down on the curb and leisurely enjoy their typical shopping area for anyone seeking clo-
tlessly clean rooms. ice-cream, making the atmosphere along the thes and fashion is located between Via del
Via degli Uffici del Vicario number 40 excep- Corso, Piazza di Spagna and Via del Babuino.
Where to eat tionally pleasant during the summer months. Along Via Condotti you will find the most
Restaurants, street vendors, trattorias, pizze- Another word of advice - when the ice-cream high-end names such as Prada, Gucci and
rias, ice-cream shops...Rome is a veritable vendor asks if you'd like "panna," make sure to Armani as well as other brands that might not
paradise for anyone with a passion for great say yes. Your ice-cream will be served with a make the catwalk, but produce fashionable
food. And not only pasta lovers will find some- mountain of whipped cream, which is an abso- quality clothing at more affordable prices.
thing to tickle their palate - in a city so rich in lutely decadent delight. By the way, apparently
tourism, you will find a wide variety of interna- Pope John Paul II had a penchant for a particu- On Via del Babuino, as well as on Via Giulia
tional cuisine: Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, lar chestnut flavoured ice-cream served at this and Via dei Coronari, there is an abundance of
Indian, Japanese and many more. It seems dif- establishment. antique shops, where bland pieces mingle with
ficult to imagine, however, that anyone visiting real and highly valuable artworks. Anyone
the Italian capital could resist indulging in a Finding a great cup of coffee is an easy task, with a good working knowledge of antiques
pasta dish, an oven-baked pizza or a delicious but there are two places that top everyone's list will find this area fascinating; everyone else
selection of Italian cheeses. of great Roman cafés. The Caffe Greco, on Via should probably resist making a purchase, even
Condotti close to Piazza Spagna, is one of them though taking a look around is almost compa-
Rather than discuss the almost infinite variety - that is, as long as you are willing to pay an rable to visiting a museum.
of the countless restaurants in this city, it might average of 6€ per cup. If you are more budget
be more interesting for the visitor to know conscious, but don't want to sacrifice quality Handicrafts, such as costume jewellery, pain-
what kind of food predominates in each of the then stop in at the Tazza d'Oro, right next to the tings and handmade objects, can be found
Roman neighbourhoods. Once you are there, it Pantheon. They serve what is possibly the best around Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and
is just a question of choosing the place that best espresso in all of Rome and, even though it Campo di Fiori. Although it seems hard to
suits your fancy. seems hard to believe given the quality and believe that department stores could compete
location, the café is one of the most reasonably with such an overabundance of choices, they
One of the classic areas to go for lunch or din- priced in the city. do exist. The Rinascente, on Via del Corso and
ner is Trastevere. Although the area is still Piazza Fiume is one of the most famous of its
undeniably charming, many of the pizzerias Nightlife kind.
and trattorias here have lost much of their Roman nights are pleasant, fun and cater to just
authenticity. Due to the vast influx of tourists, about every liking. The ambiance isn't as Markets are another excellent shopping desti-
many establishments have opened purely out sophisticated as in other European cities; in nation, providing insight into the bustling
of financial interest and have little to no expe- fact, summer nights are usually spent on the Roman character. The Porta Portese market, on
rience in the culinary arts. There still are, streets, the squares and anywhere outdoors. Via Portuense in Trastevere, specialises in
however, a few authentic gems, such as Da That being said, the city offers a variety of second hand objects and is one of the largest in
Augusto, on Piazza de Renzi, which offers nightlife options so that every visitor can enjoy all of Europe. The market is open every
excellent value for money and stands out for its their idea of nocturnal fun. Sunday morning. For a completely different
pleasant and cheerful service. ambiance and to buy fruits and vegetables head
Anyone who knows trendy clubs in cities like over to the Campo di Fiori on weekday mor-
If there is a place to avoid in terms of restau- London, Barcelona or Berlin will not come nings from Monday to Saturday. The San
rants, it is the area surrounding the Termini sta- across anything new in Rome, but that doesn't Cosimato market in Trastevere, which offers
tion. Tourists often fall victim to high prices mean there isn't anything going on. The city the same kind of products, is also very popular
and poor quality food. If you do find yourself might not be a trendsetter, but it does follow and, depending on what you buy, much chea-
in the neighbourhood and feel the need for a those who are. Therefore, you can head out for per.
quick bite, a panini or a pizza al taglio (pizza a night of dancing at fashionable nightclubs
slices) is always a safe bet. That way you won't and discotheques that groove to the sounds of Festivals and Celebrations
be met with any nasty surprises in terms of grunge, house or disco, depending on your pre- Roman festivals are a constant facet of city life,
food or price! ference. Admission and dress code depend particularly once spring and the warm weather
entirely on the night in question. It is therefore arrives. The main city festivals take place out
The restaurants in the centre tend to be pricier, a good idea to find out what kind of night is on the streets, and when they aren't religious or
but the options are manifold. Piazza Navona being promoted before heading to the club and traditional in nature, they tend to be cultural
and Campo di Fiori are some of the most being met with a dose of disapproval from the events.
recommendable destinations, where the atmos- bouncer. It is difficult to list and compare
phere more than makes up for the increase in clubs since trends come and go and the "in" In January, the main festival is New Year's Day,
prices. The areas surrounding the Vatican are places change from season to season. celebrated with a massive procession along the
home to reasonable restaurants serving good catacombs in which participants carry lit can-
food, especially the further you move away In terms of areas, Trastevere is still one of the dles. January 6th hails the arrival of Befana the
from more touristy places like the Piazza San leading neighbourhoods when it comes to witch. The children await her visit every year
and get candy if they have been good and a in June, but continues throughout the entire
lump of coal if they haven't. A few weeks ear- Coinciding with the advent of spring, Rome summer until September with a full program-
lier, Rome gets dressed up for Christmas. The celebrates its Mediterranean climate and orga- me of concerts, theatrical performances, ope-
streets are festively adorned, and the churches nises the Festa Della Primavera. This is when a ras, outdoor film screenings, etc. Most Romans
set up representations of religious scenes. visit to Piazza Spagna is an absolute must since go on holiday during these months, so this cul-
its enormous staircase is filled with pink azale- tural event largely benefits tourists. July is par-
March 19th features San Giuseppe as the prota- as. On April 21st, Rome celebrates the city's ticularly well known for the operas staged at
gonist. The church of the same name, located historical founding. This is the city's birthday, the Termes di Caracalla.
to the north of the Vatican in the Trionfale Il Natale de Roma, which is celebrated with
neighbourhood, and its surroundings fill with concerts, pyrotechnic shows and different cul- The Festa del Noantri is one of the most note-
people flocking to the market and enjoying a tural activities. Another historical holiday, this worthy events to take place in Trastevere in
classic fried pastry known as fritelle, which is time in commemoration of Rome's liberation July. It continues until mid-August, reviving an
distributed throughout the area. by the allied forces at the end of WWII, is the ancient local neighbourhood worker's tradition
Festa de la Liberazione. It is celebrated in May, (although their numbers shrink every year) in
Due to the religious nature of the city, the as are the International Equestrian Games, one which wine and food are served on the street.
Easter Week and Holy Week are two of the of Rome's most important shows in which hor- August also shines a spotlight on Santa Maria
most important events in Rome. Although their ses perform jumping competitions in the gar- Maggiore and recalls the founding of the
celebration always depends on the Christian dens of the Villa Borghese. church, alluding to the "miracle" that occurred
calendar, they tend to take place in March or in the area, which - according to legend - cau-
April. On Good Friday, in remembrance of the June is the month of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, sed snow to fall in the middle of summer.
Stations of the Cross of Christ, an impressive since the 29th is their official holiday. Most of
procession led by the Pope makes its way the city's businesses close on this day and seve- In October, the Ottobratta Romana fills
through the city, all the way to the Coliseum. ral masses and other religious services are held Trastevere with cultural events throughout the
Easter Sunday also features the Pope in the in the churches dedicated to these saints as well month, and in early December, the Settimana
spotlight as he gives the classic blessing to his as in the Vatican. dei Beni Culturali (celebrated throughout Italy)
parishioners from the Piazza San Pietro, an grants free admission to all archaeological
event that is often televised across half the Summer is another reason to celebrate, as attractions and state-run museums.
world. demonstrated by the Estate Romana. It begins
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