AE Overhaul Guidance & Reporting
AE Overhaul Guidance & Reporting
VESSEL NAME-
Preface: Performance of any engine varied in accordance with the operating condition & the engine
condition. The most reliable method for a better service & maintenance for any machinery is to record the
data of the engine performance as frequently as possible. A continuous trend analysis of the recorded
data with reference to the engine maker’s shop test results & commissioning data will contribute to
diagnose the condition of the engine precisely & precautions or the preferences can be made in advance.
Before any maintenance is planned, the following steps need to be followed as a thumb rule:
A) Plan well in advance for the upcoming maintenance so that all spares are available on board for
the job concerned.
B) Office permission need to be obtained with the time line for the planned maintenance clearly
defined.
C) Training sessions need to be carried out not once but repeatedly with all concerned personnel &
every minute details will be required to be discussed. This table top exercise will help gain
confidence, be aware of all the data, precisions, torque requirement etc & preparations required
can be taken care off in advance.
D) Risk Assessment is another aspect & each pre maintenance sessions will help identifying the
hazards involved in the job & the mitigating measures required.
The usual & frequent auxiliary engine overhaul involves following maintenances:
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Major Fasteners
Following important operations that are performed during overhaul will be under Chief Engineer’s
presence and guidance-
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Procedures Check
Note: The job should not be started unless all the checks boxes are ticked Y Y
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Hydraulic tools:
Correct tools as per maker to be used for opening and tightening cylinder head bolts, Piston Crown bolts,
Con Rod palm bolts, big end bearing bolts & Main bearing bolts.
Note 1: Hydraulic Pressure for Untightening is normally +20 bar (max. 5%) abobe the hydraulic oil
pressure for tightening.
+ Molycote: Lubricating paste up to 400 o C (Ex GLEITMO 100) (Co efficient Friction: 0.12)
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6) Connect hoses from the pump to the jacks via the distributing piece.
7) Close the release valve of the hydraulic pump.
8) Open air venting plug of the jack and check air venting by pumping.
9) Close the venting plug and pressurize up to the specified pressure for tightening the nut.
10) Turn the nut to be screwed firmly by a pin manually through the hole of the support.
11) Release the hydraulic pressure by opening the release valve of the hydraulic pump.
12) Repeat pressurizing and check the nut loosened.
13) Retighten the nut, if loosened.
14) If the stud or nut has been replaced by new ones, repeat the tightening three times for the first
tightening. This repeat is necessary for
the settlement of the threads.
15) Release the hydraulic pressure and dismount the tool set.
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Note: Pressure gauge of hydraulic pump to be calibrated prior using. We have had cases where
the pressure gauge readings were wrong and thus nuts were over tightened
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CYLINDER LINER
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Piston Pin
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Cylinder Head-
While assembling ensure correct torque values are followed as per maker.
ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCK NUT
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Following to be checked-
S.No Observation Cyl No.1 Cyl No.2 Cyl No.3 Cyl No.4 Cyl No.5 Remark
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Pin surface any See
scratches note
2 Pin lubrication YES/NO
passage to
clean
3 Yoke free to run YES/NO
on pin
4 Yoke pin
renewed/reused
5 Guide renewed
or reused
6 Go-NoGo-
Gauge v/v guide
S.No. Observation Cyl No.1 Cyl No.2 Cyl No.3 Cyl No.4 Cyl No.5 Remark
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Pin surface any See
scratches note
2 Pin lubrication YES/NO
passage to
clean
3 Yoke free to run YES/NO
on pin
4 Yoke pin
renewed/reused
5 Guide renewed
or reused
Note- Scratches indicate improper v/v tappet adjustment which eventually leads to breaking of valve,
damage to liner piston etc.
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Following to be checked-
S.No. Observation Cyld. No.1 Cyld. No.2 Cyld. No.3 Cyld. No.4 Cyld. No.5 Remarks
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Rocker arm Standard
Brg.bush Dia. value/Limiting
value
2 Rocker arm
lube oil flow
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5) Rotate the adjusting screw (4) until bottom of the adjusting screw makes contact with the push
rod. The dial guge needle will start moving as soon as the contact is established.
6) Tighten lock nut (3) while holding the adjusting screw (4) which shouldn’t be allowed to turn.
7) After tightening measure the clerance again by pressing the push rod side of rocker arm firmly.
YES/NO
S.No. Observation Cyl No.1 Cyl No.2 Cyl No.3 Cyl No.4 Cyl No.5 Remarks
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Exhaust v/v
yoke
renew/reuse
3 Lube oil
passage
blown through
4 Go-NoGo-
Gauge
Before dismantling the valves cylinder head to be dismantled. Following steps to be followed-
2) All four valves to be numbered with as S1,S2 (for suction valves) and E1, E2 (for exhaust valves)
and at same time their corresponding valve seats, valve guides and position in which they are
placed on cylinder head to be marked in same manner. YES/NO
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4) Press and lower the spring by turning the nut of the tool.
5) Remove the conical cotter.
6) Dismount the tool.
7) Remove the roto cap, springs and valves.
If valve guide clearances exceed makers recommended values, then it has to be replaced. Following
procedure for removal to be followed-
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For assessment of valve stem guide dimension for confirming its further use in service, initially
GO-NO GO gauges were supplied on vessel.
GO-NO GO gauge was fabricated to measurement of valve stem guide as per individual makers
stipulated limit which was effective in determining the further use of valve stem guide until next
overhaul.
In order to access the condition of the valve guide the above tool fabricated with a dia. of
19.24/19.22mm and length of 400mm with precision work. During each cylinder head o’haul,
this tool must be used to check the condition of the valve guide after proper cleaning . And if this
tool (dia. 19.24/19.22mm) passes through the valve guide then this valve guide must be
discarded.
GO-NOGO GAUGE FOR SUC V/V GO-NOGO GAUGE FOR EXH V/V
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S.No. Observation Cyld. No.1 Cyld.No.2 Cyld. No.3 Cyld. No.4 Cyld. No.5 Remarks
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Diameter after Standard Diameter
cleaning mm acceptable limit
2 Carbon deposit See note below
S.No. Observation Cyl No.1 Cyl No.2 Cyl No.3 Cyl No.4 Cyl No.5 Remarks
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Diameter after Standard Diameter
cleaning mm acceptable limit
2 Carbon deposit Yes/No
5 Guide renew/
reused
Note: Guide to be cleaned thoroughly with reamer to remove hard carbon deposit and then check
with Go-No-Go gauge.
This new measuring tool has been supplied on vessels for greater accuracy and will replace the
GO-NO GO gauge.
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VALVE STEM GUIDE DIMENSION MAKERS LIMIT FIT FOR FURTHER USE
Tool
Valve seat can be extracted either by welding (if maker has not
provided any tool) or by makers/fabricated tool.
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2) Place the valve spindle on the seat and weld it diagonally. Protect the machined surface around
the valve seat of the cylinder head by shielding it with non-inflammable material.
3) Press or knock the valve spindle by means of hammer to extract the seat ring.
Be careful not to damage valve guide bush and cylinder head.
1) Mount the extracting tool and plate on the valve seat as shown in figure above.
2) Clamp the valve seat tightly by turning nut “A”.
3) Extract the valve seat by turning nut “B”.
S.No. Observation Cyld. No.1 Cyld. Cyld. No.3 Cyld. No.4 Cyld. No.5 Remarks
No.2
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Recond.
1 Exhaust v/v seat Grinding/La
renew/reused pping
2 Inlet v/v seat Grinding/La
renew/reused pping
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Ex. FPP Ex. FPP Ex. FPP Ex. FPP Ex. FPP
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1) The valve, springs and roto caps should be cleaned, checked for cracks by dye penetration test and
then mounted on the cylinder head. YES/NO
2) Rotocap bearings and springs should be checked and replaced if necessary. YES/NO
3) Valve guides and seat rings should be thoroughly cleaned and apply some oil inside valve guides to
facilitate easy assembly of valve. Valve guide o- rings to be renewed. YES/NO
4) Coat some lube oil on the valve stem and each valve (suction/Exhaust) should go into same place
as they were originally. This has to be verified by the reference marking on the valve as well as on
the cylinder head which had been made before dismantling the valves from head. YES/NO
5) Assemble valve spindle into the valve guide and check there should be smooth sliding movement
between the two. YES/NO
6) Once the valves are located in respective positions, mount the springs over the spindles and place
roto cap over the springs.
7) Use the same compression tool which was used earlier for dismantling to push the springs down.
8) Insert cotters into clearance space between valve stem and roto cap to complete the assembly.
9) Lightly tap the end of each valve stem with hammer to check the bouncing effect of valve. YES/NO
S.No. Observation Cyld. No.1 Cyld. No.2 Cyld. No.3 Cyld. No.4 Cyld. No.5 Remarks
Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP Exh. FPP
1 Ball How many
renewed
2 Spring How many
renewed
3 Ball race How many
renewed
4 Disc spring How many
renewed
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Tool for suction valve seat ring Tool for Exhaust valve seat ring
1) The cylinder head valve seat housing should be properly cleaned and inspected for cracks.
YES/NO
2) Valve seat ring to be inserted into the cylinder head should be cooled and then pressed in with
tool as shown in the figure.
3) Lapping/grinding of valve seat to be carried out by makers provided tool or by old exhaust
/suction valve using coarse grinding paste at first and then finishing to be given using fine
grinding paste.
4) At the end of the process the new valve suction/exhaust should be used with fine grinding paste
with respective valve seats suction/exhaust, for final bedding. YES/NO
5) To confirm whether the valve and seat contact surfaces are bedding together, persian blue paste
can be used on the surface of valve seat or valve at contact faces. There should be uniform
imprint of blue layer on both valve as well as seats contact surfaces. YES/NO
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1) Clean & inspect all four valve guide housing in cylinder head. YES/NO
3) Valve guide to be applied with lubricating oil on the outer face which will enter the cylinder head.
YES/NO
4) Valve guide to be inserted in by using hammer. Do not hammer directly on valve guide. Use a brass or
lead bar between hammer and the valve guide contact surface.
5) After inserting the valve guide, check internal diameter of valve guide using Go-No Go-Gauge or
micrometer tool.
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STEP 1 STEP 2
STEP 4 STEP 3
After dismounting cylinder head from the engine, following steps to be followed to remove the piston rod-
1) Remove the flame ring and clean the threaded hole in the piston crown.
2) Install lifting eye on the piston threaded hole. The eye bolt should sit flush with the piston crown.
3) Turn the crankshaft 25o approximately.
4) Install clamping support on connecting rod shaft and big end part.
5) Loosen four nuts on connecting rod hydraulically and remove nuts and studs.
6) Turn the crank shaft to TDC.
7) Install bracket on connecting rod big end part and counter weight.
8) Dismantle the clamping support.
9) Lift up the piston along with connecting rod slowly out of the liner and place it on the stand as
shown above.
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Remark: Piston grooves to be cleaned with copper only. Screwdriver or welding rods not to be
used. YES/NO
Crown replacement -
Blue test carried out
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9) Inspect piston bush and measure clearances as per maker’s instruction and limits.
a = A-X
b= B-X
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Piston for HiMSEN engine has been improved continuously to ensure the tightening connection between
Piston Crown & skirt. For 5 H21/32 engines, 4 Stud design have been used.
H21/32
1) Turn the piston upside down and rest on soft (wooden) surface.
2) Loosen the piston bolts using the torque spanner and remove the piston crown.
3) After removal of piston crown following checks to be carried out.
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Vessel Name:
Engine No.
Description Cyld.1 Cyld.2 Cyld.3 Cyld.4 Cyld.5 Remarks
Piston Crown
Condition
Remark 1: In case of crown bolt renewal, each bolt is to be bedded prior final tightening by tightening to full and
then loosening back. Molykote 1000 is to be applied every time. YES/NO
Remark 2: In case of crown renewal, blue test is to be carried out to confirm 100% contact with the skirt. YES/NO
4) Coat thread & contact surface of stud with “Molycote-paste G-n plus or G-n & then tighten the stud with a
torque of 25 Nm to assemble to crown diagonally.
Notice: If only the length of stud is less than 84.3 mm, re use the Piston stud.
5) Coat thread of studs with molycote paste & assemble piston skirt to crown. Before assembling washers,
coat contact surface with molycote paste.
6) Tighten the nuts with a torque of 40 Nm, loosen the nuts again & re tighten the stud bolt with a torque of 25
Nm for checking.
7) Continue tightening the nuts with a torque of 20 Nm one by one & turn the nuts by an additional 60 o.
Notice: Make sure that the nut is not rotated by application of test torque 45 Nm to tighten direction.
If the nuts can be turned any more, renew the stud & nut.
Pressure washers are used to disburse the compression of the nut or bolt smoothly. This lessens the possibility of
damage and offers a flat space for the nut or bolt to stay, meaning it will be more likely to stay in
one place.
The pressure washers are used since the hole is a larger diameter than
the fixing nut.
It is extremely important to clean the surface of the washers & coat the
contact surfaces with molycote before assembling so that the correct
hydraulic pressure applied is retained.
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1) Coat the surface of piston pin and small end bush with oil and mount piston pin into small end
bush through the connecting rod.
2) Mount circlips for piston pin.
3) Lift the piston and connecting rod assembly and place it on the stand.
4) Mount the piston rings into the piston groves using makers designated tool. Precaution to be
maintained not to expand the ring too much as it will be deformed and will not of spring function
required for sealing.
5) End gaps of each piston ring should be arranged at 120 degree in relation to each other. YES/NO
6) Inspect the piston ring for wear as shown. If the wear limit exceeds makers limit then the ring
should be replaced. YES/NO
7) Mount the piston along with connecting rod into the engine.
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1) After removal of piston out from the liner mount cylinder liner lifting tool on the liner as shown.
2) While removing the liner out from the jacket a reference mark has to be made on the liner as well as
on the fixed jacket, so that liner if installed in same position.
3) Place the liner on wooden blocks.
4) Replace the liner O-rings with new. YES/NO
5) Clean the jacket inside surface as well as line outer surface. YES/NO
Measurement at 3 points in a liner to be carried out and readings compared with makers limits.
1
2
3
Ovality of liner to be checked.
1) After replacing old O-rings on the liner with new ones, smear grease
on the o-rings.
2) While placing liner in the jacket match the position pin and groove by
aligning the reference markings made before removing.
3) After mounting check height of the cylinder liner from top of the water
jacket.
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Holding supports
Fig.1 Fig.2
Extracting lower end bearing. Installation of bracket Extracting upper end bearing
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Connecting Rod
Renewed/Reused
Dye check for the
serrations
Megna-flux test for
the Serrations
Lube oil passage
cleaned with
solvent
Condition of piston
pin bush
Bottom end
bearing housing
cleaned with
scotch Bite
Bearing shell back
plate cleaned with
scotch bite
Close up
Photograph of the
bearing shell sent
to office
Prior installation -
Clean oil applied
on the bearing
shell running
surface
Free axial
movement
checked after full
tightening
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Remark 1: Bearing shell back and bottom bearing housing should be absolutely dry before installing the
bearing. YES/NO
Remark 2: Bearing shell is to be placed in the middle of the bearing housing, axial position. YES/NO
Remark 3: A few good photographs to be taken after placing all bottom end bearing shells in line, this is
to understand the loading patterns on the bearing. YES/NO
1) Before mounting the bearings check the ovality of crank pin by external micrometer at vertical and
horizontal direction.
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2) Put the bearing shell into the casing and to ensure that the shell is inserted in the casing in right
direction. The ends of top and bottom shell should match and notch on the shell should fit into
casing groove. Do not apply lube oil on back of the bearing shell while placing it in the bearing
housing.
3) Once the upper bearing shell is mounted in its housing place it on the crank pin.
4) Loosen and take out bolts for bracket.
5) Move the crankshaft to TDC.
6) Dismount the bracket.
7) Mount the lower bearing to the housing.
8) Lift up lower bearing housing to contact with upper
9) Cam Effect:
Description: Cam effect is uneven wearing of auxiliary engine crank pin journal which causes
change in its geometry.
Cause: Small abrasive particles suspended in lube oil cause the wear of the crank pin journal.
Small abrasive particles causing wear in crank pin journal which causes wear on either side of
lower bearing shell oil groove
Location: The cam effect is observed on the center part of crank journal which protrudes out as the sides
of the crank pin journal wears out due to small abrasive particles suspended in lube oil.
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Center Protruding part of the crank pin (protruding out as cam) cause overloading on
center part of upper bearing shell
Cam effect on crank pin journal affects the top crank pin bearing shell causing scuffing and
smearing of the bearing top layer.
Top crank pin bearing shell & crank pin damage due to cam effect
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1) Visual method: using “straightedge tool” and placing it horizontally on crank pin journal and
placing light source behind the straight edge tool and observing the contact point of tool with
crank pin.
2) Once it has been detected that cam effect is present, following is the procedure for
confirming:
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Apply paste uniformly on crank pin over the area where cam effect is detected.
Use gauge block and press the flat surface on the cam effect zone over the paste.
Impression of the paste on gauge block at center part which is broken and not uniform along
the entire length of gauge block, confirms cam effect has occurred.
For rectifying the cam effect, cam has to be polished or in extreme case requires to be
machined.
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Crank pin polishing and machining is precision job which requires service engineer’s
attendance.
While assembling the bottom end bearing utmost care has to be taken-
2) Place the bearing shell correctly in appropriate housing. Lower bearing shell should go in
lower housing while upper bearing should go in upper bearing housing. Do not mix the bearing
shell and its respective housing. Photograph of correct placement of bearing shell in its housing
to be taken. YES/NO
3) No oil is to be applied at the back of the bearing shell or on the surface of the bearing
housing where bearing shell slides in. YES/NO
4) The bearing shells should be placed right at the center of the housing. YES/NO
5) Place the bearing shell on the connecting rod and screw in the bolts by hand. Apply
molybdenum disulfide to the bolts before tightening. YES/NO
6) If same connecting rod bolts are being used ensure that same bolts go in the same position
in bottom end bearing shell as they were before being removed.
If new bolts are being used then the bolts have to be tightened and loosened 3 times from/to its
surface position to/from to its specified angle position for proper bedding so that it fully tightens to
the seat face. YES/NO
7) Tighten the bolts to correct torque or specified angle as per maker’s instruction. Tighten the
bolts in following order-
If 2 bolts are there tightening order should be: 1-2-1-2
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9) After final tightening slide the bottom end bearing on the crankshaft axially. It should slide
freely. YES/NO
1) Remove piston from cylinder unit after loosening the bolts “A” on connecting rod.
2) After piston is removed from the cylinder unit, turn the crankshaft to 10 o approximately as shown in
fig. 5 so that the bottom end bearing bolts “B” is facing towards the crank case cover doors.
3) Loosen & dismount two nuts for big end part studs hydraulically at the same time. Loosening
pressure: 970 bar (max 988 bar).
4) Install guide support on the bottom of the engine as shown in fig. 6
5) Turn the engine to 5o approximately & dismount the turning bracket.
6) After removal of big end bottom end bearing bolts, remove the big end upper & lower bearing shell
covers & take then out from the engine block as shown in the fig below.
Notice: Be careful not to drop or damage the bearings during taking them out of the engine.
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11) Mark the bearing shells in the bearing housing and the position in which it is placed in bearing
housing, for reference.
12) Remove the bearing shells from the bearing housing and inspect the same for thickness, condition
of surface as shown below.
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Connecting Rod
Renewed/Reused
Dye check for the
serrations
Megna-flux test for
the Serrations
Lube oil passage
cleaned with
solvent
Condition of piston
pin bush
Bottom end
bearing housing
cleaned with
scotch Bite
Bearing shell back
plate cleaned with
scotch bite
Close up
Photograph of the
bearing shell sent
to office
Prior installation -
Clean oil applied
on the bearing
shell running
surface
Free axial
movement
checked after full
tightening
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Connecting Rod
The connecting rod transfers the entire generated power out of the combustion process from the piston
pin to the crankshaft and converts the reciprocating energy into rotating energy that drives either the
propeller or the generator. The “connection piece” between the piston and the crankshaft is the
connecting rod. Like all other engine parts that are directly involved into the combustion process, the
connecting rod is highly stressed. The con rods alternating, comparative stress is mainly fed by 3 different
forces:
the acceleration force, from the combustion process
the mass force, from the piston and the piston pin
the bending force, caused by the con rod angle
With a share of approximately 80%, the connecting rod shaft is mainly loaded by
dynamically acting compression stresses out of the combustion process. The
remaining 20% are dynamically acting bending loads. This results in a very
complicate stress profile in the connecting rod eye (or small end) while engine
operation.
The connecting rod shaft can be manufactured in a "H"- or "O-profile" (round cross
section). Today´s engines - with high specific outputs - are equipped with fully
machined con rods. For manufacturing reasons, they have an O-profiled shaft.
For the lubrication of the piston pin as well as for the piston cooling, the con rod shaft
is very often drilled longitudinally.
The upper end of the connecting rod is the connecting rod eye. This accommodates an undivided piston
bolt bearing - the so called small end bearing. The lower end of the connecting rod is divided into two
halves, as the connecting rod is guided through the cylinder from above - the so called big end bearing.
Initially the big end bearings were divided horizontally. When the specific output of the engines increased,
larger surfaces for the bearing became necessary and they developed con rods with diagonally split big
ends in order to pull the con rod upwards with its foot through the cylinder liner.
In order to avoid that the big end bearing housing must be opened during maintenance of the piston,
Himsen Engine connecting rods are divided between con rod shaft and big end bearing housing.
The screwed connection of the big end bearing housing is one of the most difficult connections
for screws due to the high asymmetric load on them. This lead into dynamic bending stress, that
must be handled by the tightening forces. Because of this, the tightening procedure needs
extremely high attention.
Due to the cranking of the con rod during combustion and compression - inside the cylinder - the big end
bearing is subject to asymmetric forces which creates asymmetric and dynamic wear and tear. Therefore,
the ovality of the big end bearing houses has to be checked on a regular basis. Due to the high forces,
the mating surface between the lower half and the upper half of the big end bearing housing need´s the
highest grade of planarity, in order to avoid fretting wear and tear.
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It is absolutely necessary to get reliable measurements for taking the right decisions:
Measuring the diameter and ovality of a big end bearing housing requires full tightened
connecting rod bolts with assembled connecting rod shaft
Requires also to make use of the correct lubricant for bolts and nuts (in accordance to
Maker’s recommendation)
Requires also that the temperature of the housing, the calibrating and the measuring device is as
equal as possible
Requires also to calibrate your measurement device before carrying out the measurement
Requires to use of the correct lubricant for the assembling parts (bolt, nuts etc.)
Maker’s manual contains the information what kind of lubricant must be used. It is important to
understand that this is an instruction and not just a recommendation which can be ignored or neglected if
the correct lubricant is not available. Ignoring or neglecting this instruction may result in a significant
deviation of the required tightening forces! And if this happens... good luck for your engine...
How much lubricant should be used? Much helps much? No, it´s just the opposite.
The job of a lubricant is to reduce the friction between the threads of bolts and nuts. A thin layer of the
lubricant is enough; unless it is otherwise stated by the engine manufacturer. Just for your information,
some of the manufacturers during final assembling of pistons, use tooth brushes for the smaller and bottle
brushes for the larger threads to ensure just a thin layer of the lubricant.
Need an example? Here it is: Assembling a MAN 16/24 piston with too much Molykote on the thread of
the bolts (dipping the bolts into the Molykote) will result in a loosening torque that is more than 40% lower
than required. As a consequence, the piston crown becomes loose in engine operation. There are cases
on board of several vessels when the crown was changed by the crew some years ago & rest goes to the
history book!
Note: As the size of the measurement to be measured increases, the measuring error also increases at
deviating temperatures between the engine component, the calibrating and the measuring device.
A temperature difference of only 6°C (assumed 28°C of the housing and 22°C of the measuring device)
between a big end bearing housing with an assumed bore diameter of e.g. 450 mm and the measuring
device will result in a measuring error of approximately 0.03 mm ! The "as new" tolerance of in this bore
range usually is only +0.04 mm.
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The surface of the bolts and the threads shall be in proper condition and not be affected by rough
handling: Small damages can be the starting point of fatigue cracks.
NEVER ! use new and used assembly components at the same conrod.
Make sure that the bolts are tightened in complete accordance to the Maker’s instruction in all regards
like e.g. - the tightening stages, the correct lubricant and of course => no use of hammers and other
heavy tools. The mechanical stress to the connecting rod is enormous and a damaged con rod will
release a disaster – mostly the total loss of the engine. Therefore, correct maintenance is essential.
For 5H 21/32,
1) A = 190 mm,
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Observed Nominal
size- “A” by vessel
Observed
clearance(mm) “a”
by vessel
Replacing limit 0.3
(mm), as per
maker
17) Bearing shell to be replaced as one set i.e. both upper and lower bearing shells to be changed
together as a pair. YES/NO
To measure the ovality and to perform dye penetration test to determine the cracks on the serration, the
bottom end bearing assembly has to be removed out from the crankcase.
This process can only take place once piston has been removed along with connecting rod out of the
cylinder liner.
1) Remove piston and connecting rod out of the liner and place it on a stand (fabricated by ship
staff)
2) Bottom end bearing part to be removed by loosening the hydraulic nuts as stated above.
3) Support to be placed underneath bottom end bearing.
4) Lower the bottom end part and remove it out of the crankcase.
5) Similarly top end part of bottom end bearing too can be removed.
6) Place both the parts on wooden block and perform dye penetrant test on the serrations of bottom
end bearings.
7) Remove bottom end shells after marking each as top/bottom if to be used again. Reference
markings to be made on shell s well as on the casing too, so that while assembling it provides
easy reference to put shell back in its place in right direction. YES/NO
8) Tighten the casing hydraulically as stipulated by maker. YES/NO
9) With a micrometer measure the ovality of the big end bearing casing at different point shown-
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10) Check the elongation of bottom end bearing studs. If elongation exceeds makers limit same to
with new. YES/NO
11) Dye penetrant test to be carried out on bearing studs to check for cracks. YES/NO
12) Check the surface of bearing shell and measure the thickness with micrometer. Compare it to
makers limit. Bearing surface to be checked for erosion, pitting and removal of metal layer.
YES/NO
Vessel Name-
Date-
Checks to be carried out before starting generator
Manual lubrication carried out for the rocker arm and vlve yoke
Remark 1: Calibration tools to be kept near the engine for atleats 4 hours prior use.
Remark 2: For fuel pump rack lubrication, use a mixture of lube oil and diesel (50:50)
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1. Check the surface of the piston pin & small end bush
2. Measure clearance between the piston pin & small end bush
3. If the specified limit is exceeded, the bush need to be replaced using the removal device. During
removal of the bush, make sure that the bore should not be damaged.
4. Insert the bush to bore correctly after the bush is shrink fitted.
Notice: Clean & coat the bore with clean lubricating oil before inserting.
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Vessel Name-
Date-
Running in checks-
RPM Load Duration Air/Fuel Main brg. Temp deg. Con rod play Filter condition
cent
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Slow( Idle 2 min Air
140)
Slow( Idle 30 sec DO
320)
Full Idle 30 sec DO
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Prepare correct tools and lifting equipment’s for the work concerned.
Spares that will be consumed have to be available on board prior to commencing the work.
13) Submerge the air cooler in Air cooler cleaning chemical bath or alternatively if the air cooler can
be suspended by chain block in ultrasonic machine (without resting in the machine) and cleaned.
Note: Do not use strong chemicals. Use Air cooler cleaning chemical only.
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