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11 €
nº 45

nº 45 11 €
Armour Modelling Magazine

SovietS WWii

www.euromodelismo.com
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PANZER ACES Nº 45 2014

2 KV-8 FLAMETHROWER, ESCALE 1/35

Javier Redondo makes this rare version of the famous KV, a hybrid vehicle which
required pieces from two kits.

JS MODEL 1944, APPROACHES TO BERLIN,

APRIL 1945, ESCALE 1/35 10
Radek Pituch presents us with this highly recognizable Soviet AFV in the
closing years of WWII. His realistic approach and real life likeness of his
work is admirable.

20 T-34/76, ESCALE 1/35

Diego Quijano, always original and different in his approaches and amazing with his
paintjobs, once more surprises us with his creation and this daring composition.

T-34/85 BERLIN, ESCALE 1/35

Fabrizio Pincelli displays all his know how and good observation skills to 36
create this curious version of the renowned T-34 with an 85mm gun
piece.

50 VOROSHILOVETS TRACTOR, ESCALE 1/35

Cristobal Vergara Duran has made a version of the most famous Soviet tractor and
has used it to carry the 203mm campaign gun, a most interesting piece made with
the highest fidelity to its real life counterpart.
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KV-8

2
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By: Javier Redondo pictures of the author

Trumpeter 1/35

The USSR was interested from the start on

developing armored flamethrower vehicles,
adapting first the lightweight armored T-26 with
pretty mediocre results, as it could be seen in the
Winter War against Finland. Towards the end of
1941 the Chelyabinsk factory developed a number
of projects with the intent of assembling a
flamethrower device on the very heavy KV’s.

FLAMETHROWER
2-9_LANZALLAMAS_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 13:56 Página 4

But finally a modification was 60 to 100 meters with pretty devastating neutralizing casemates and other strong

F designed which basically was to

mount an ATO 41 flamethrower
device on the turret sharing its axis with
results. An initial demonstration was
made in front of Stalin’s own eyes and he
immediately supported its mass manu-
points, the psychological value of these
vehicles made Russians use it indiscrimi-
nately in multiple functions.
the tank’s gun. The space taken by this facture by early 1942. When the production of the KV ceased,
device hindered the correct use of the Named KV-8, this vehicle was immedi- flamethrower devices were then used on
76.2mm gun assembled in the KV’s, so ately assigned as a backup AFV for the the KV-1S mounting on some units the
the gun had to be replaced for the 45mm infantr y forces ser ving within the new ATO-42 flamethrower device which
32/38 and the device was cunningly hid- armored battalions for the chemical war- could spit four to five fire bursts in ten
den inside a fake tube longer than the fare, having 10 KV-8’s and 11 OT-34’s seconds with a maximum range increased
shaft of the 76.2 gun. which were the flamethrower versions of to 120 meters. The remainder of these
The ATO 41 flamethrower device could the popular T-34. devices was installed on the new T-34/85
spit three short bursts of an inflammable In spite of the fact that these battal- which was then turned into the Ogn-
mixture of kerosene and petrol every ten ions were in charge of the offensive func- metny Tank 34/85’s (armored flamethrow-
seconds, with a reach which ranged from tions giving a backup for the infantry, er vehicle 34/85) OT-34/85.

THE KIT
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
This is a hybrid of two Trumpeter refer- mounted in it, we are given the option of
- Trumpeter TRU-00356 KV-1 ences. This Asiatic manufacturer offers mounting a KV-8 flamethrower device.
model 1941 small turret all the versions of the Soviet KV’s of When I chose to assemble a “Stalin
- Trumpeter TRU-00358 KV-1 which we’ll say nothing more, because blow torch” and began to gather avail-
model 1942 simplified turret the fans of the Soviet armored vehicles able reference materials I found out that
- Aber G16 Grilles for KV-1 y know everything about these. These kits 102 units were made with a 42 hull and
KV-2 are highly recommended and have an none of these had the turret with aug-
- Aber AB-35R018 Moorings for optimal quality/price ratio. mented armoring, but on the other hand
KV-1 y KV-2 In the reference 00358 of the KV 1942 the first 25 units of the KV-8S did.
model with a reinforced hull shaped at In order to make the model as histori-
an angle with welded turret and cally accurate as it may be, I had to pur-
4 increased armoring with a ZIS-5 gun chase the reference 00356 of the same
2-9_LANZALLAMAS_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 13:57 Página 5

manufacturer, a KV-1 1941 model with a all the Trumpeter kits. Recently this and from that point onwards you can
small turret, and in order to use this tur- brand got out on the market a new spe- improve on whatever you can and want.
ret specifically discarding the mantelet cific reference of the KV-8 so all of this I’ve only used the Friul tracks, a specific
and the F-32 gun, mounting instead the moving around and purchasing two dif- P.E. set by Aber for the KV and some tin
ATO-41 flamethrower device and the ferent kits won’t be necessary anymore. rings manufactured by this brand as well.
camouflaged 45mm gun included in the The kit does not require the extras The assembly work does not require
previous reference. All of those move- made available by all of these auxiliary any more specific explanations and can
ments in terms of all the different pieces industries, but what you buy strictly be readily evaluated by the pictures that
were not the source of any fitting prob- depends on your own tastes and how accompany this text.
lems because all the pieces from all the demanding you are for this sort of thing.
different models are compatible between The “out of the box” kit is more than OK

5
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TRACKS
We are going to try the Black Traks each step of the process and an instruc- To sum it all up, this product offers a
product manufactured by the British tion sheet written in English. rather convincing and easy to use fin-
brand TI Hobbies. This is a series of The first thing to do once the tracks ish. The chemical agents in this set;
“chemical baths” that are supposedly have been assembled is to wash these selenium, phosphate and caustic soda
going to give us a very realistic result with soapy water to get rid of grease do require the usual care employed
on Friul’s metal tracks. and dirt remains that got there during when handling chemicals. Avoid direct
The set contains three 100ml bottles the manufacturing process and later contact and inhalation.
with different chemical products for manipulation during assembly. After- The price/quality ratio of this prod-
wards we lay these on a piece of cloth uct is good because this set can be
until fully dry. We can speed up the used up to three or four times if you’re
process with a hair dryer or blowing cautious not to mix the chemicals
some air with our airbrush kit. It is nec- together and avoid dropping any water
essary to make sure that the tracks are in these.
fully dry.
We immerse the tracks
for five minutes on
solution 1. Then we put
the tracks again in water
and dry thoroughly.

During this phase the

change in color takes
place. The tracks are
immersed in solution 3
for five minutes. If we let
the tracks for longer than
that the color will be a
whole lot darker and if
Now we immerse the tracks on solution we leave the tracks for
2 for 1.5 minutes trying not to make it less than five minutes the
longer than that because if we do it, color will be lighter. Back
the overall finish won’t be to the water now and
homogeneous. The tracks now go back then we let the tracks dry
to the water and we dry these again. like before.

With sandpaper accommodated in a wooden block of the proper

size we sand the areas that stick out on the track links and then
the tacks will be ready. From this point onwards we use some
The new color of the tracks is quite tough and its color is color pigments on the tracks, oil paint washes or whatever it
6 pretty realistic. takes to harmonize these with the vehicle and the groundwork.
2-9_LANZALLAMAS_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 13:58 Página 7

PAINTING
For this once we’ll try to recreate the 4BO Soviet green in one of its lighter hues.
In order to do this I use Hobby Color’s
H422 which has a very close hue,
diluted in Tamiya’s thinner and then
airbrushing paint in several and very
thin coats.

Now I do some profiling with Tamiya

acrylic XF-11 J.N Green lighted up
with a little XF-60 Dark Yellow from
the same brand.

After we’ve left a 24 hour margin for

paint to dry up completely, I begin to
apply some area-specific paint filters,
first using Humbrol enamel 29 Dark
Earth insisting on the lower and
horizontal surfaces, and then continue
with already made Sin Industries filters
allowing for this product to dry up
between the different coats.

At this point we begin to do some gradations to the base

color with the usual oil paint treatment, “melting”
different colors. The wider the range of colors used the
more chromatic richness that we’ll get for the
monotonous green color underneath. Several color
references from the 501 Abteilung brand have been used
to accomplish this.
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Paint chips and scratches are made with a good brush The more intensely dirty areas –the track area mainly-
and 302 Dark Rust Vallejo acrylic. receive pigments MIG PO34 Russian Earth, PO29 Brick Dust
and PO37 Gulf War Sand fixed with Humbrol’s enamel
thinner.

The polished areas

created by the friction
between the metallic
surfaces are recreated
by painting the affected
surfaces directly with a
pencil.

The same technique is

employed to recreate
the charred areas found
on the exhausts.
The metallic effects are recreated with graphite powder
applied on the weapons with a smearing device.

The burned out areas on the ATO-41 flamethrower are

made with highly diluted Tamiya’s XF-1 Flat Black
applied with our airbrush kit.

BIBLIOGRAPHY The final

effects are
• KV Technical History & Variants. done with
bitumen and
Neil Stokes. AirConnection
Titan oil
• KV-1 Soviet Heavy Tanks of WW paint 80.
II. Late variants. Tankograd soviet
special nº 2003
8
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COLOR CHART
Thinner (Tamiya) Oils: Chips &
Thinner (Humbrol) 501 Abteilung: Scrathches:
Base: Abt010 Luftwaffe 302 Dark Rust
H422 de Hobby Color Yellow Suciedades:
Profiling: Abt092 German Mig Pigments:
XF-11 J.N. Green Ochre PO34 Russian Earth
(Tamiya) Abt020 Faded Dark PO29 Brick Dust
Light: Yellow PO37 Gulf War Sand
XF-60 Dark Yellow Abt015 Shadow Metallic effects:
Filters: Brown Pencil
Humbrol: Abt001 Snow White Dirty areas:
The bitumen from Judaea diluted in different 29 Dark Earth Abt030 Faded Navy XF-1 Flat Black
proportions conveys well the greasy look left by Sin Industries Filters: Blue (Tamiya)
the poorly burnt flammable solution employed in P406 Brown for Abt050 Olive Green Final effects:
flamethrower devices. white-yellow camo Abt094 Green Grass Betún de Judea
P246 Grey for Bright Abt040 Faded Green Grease stains:
Green 80 Bitumen (Titan)
P244 Green for Tracks:
Ligth Green Black Traks (British
brand TI Hobbies)

Grease stains are perfectly

well recreated with oil
paint Bitumen 80 (Titan).

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JS MODEL
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1944
apprOachES tO

BErLin
apriL 1945
By: Radek Pituch pictures of the author

Dragon 1/35

The story of the so called Stalin

tank (IS or JS in English
nomenclature) begins in 1943
where the demand for a
powerful heavy tank arose due
to the ever increasing
Panzerwaffe power.
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t was by then obvious that the KV and heavy fire was supposed to destroy through operations. It was also capable

I series, even the modernized KV 1s

(skoryj - fast) was no match for Ger-
man long barreled tank and antitank
encountered strongpoints and artillery
positions. The Stavka (Russian high
command) decided that a new tank
of defeating even the heaviest German
tanks. The gun had also some shortcom-
ings like a low rate of fire (the projectile
guns deployed in vast numbers before should have a long barreled large caliber and the charge were loaded separately)
the Zitadelle. It was also obvious that the gun and sufficient armoring to withstand or small amount of stowed ammunition.
76,2 mm guns (KVs were armed with the the fire of the German PaK. The conclu- But the menacing look of the JS 2 surely
F-32 L/41,5) lacked punch to defeat the sion of this development was the JS 1 terrified German tankers when encoun-
even better armored AFVs of the Reich. armed with a 85 mm gun that later devel- tering these in the field.
They also lacked sufficient power when a oped to the JS 2 tank armed with the 122
breakthrough operation was intended mm gun so much needed for break-

BUILDING AND UPDATING THE MODEL

My model, being a long term shelf queen, represents the lat-

er version of the Stalin tank with redesigned hull nose that
could withstand direct hits even from “88” PaK fire. The model
is the old generation Dragon kit. The kit has sufficient short-
comings and it is below today’s standards (comparing it to
Tamiya’s) like an incorrect hull (the sides are too short by 2 mm
and if you don’t fix this issue the upper track run will touch the
underside of the fenders. I have redone the hull sides that also
resulted in some alternations to the hull bow and rear by

Lifecolor modulation kit for Soviet

AFV 4BO Green.

Applying from Lifecolor’s kit the

“Ground Shade” paint on top of
Tamiya’s “Deep Green” priming.

We apply some paper masking on

some areas in order to apply the
“Flashed Shade” green (the lightest
one) in order to enhance details.

We use again the same masking

strategy but this time to apply the
darkest hue (“Deep Shade”).
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A paintbrush is
now used to apply
Lifecolor’s “Flashed
Shade” and
“Geldbraun” to
enhance a few
details.

An overall Mig
Productions neutral
wash is now
applied along with
some pinpoint
washes with Van
Dyck’s brown.

Paint scratches are

made with
Vallejo’s 70.002
diluted with
retardant.

adding styrene strips and putty, which

was later sanded. I also added some oth-
er aftermarket products to build a more
accurate miniature like a turned D-25T
gun barrel from Armorscale, turned turret
rear DT machinegun from Aber, towing
rope from Eureka. Etched grills who
come also from an Armorscale update
set. The tracks are my usual choice; the
friuls. I have also added some blow torch
marks on the hull bow section where the
casting blocks were cut (the whole bow
section was a single casting). I also
added some of these marks on the com-
manders cupola, this was all done with
Greenstuff putty that I normally use for
my figure sculpts. I also added some
weld marks in the areas of the missing 13
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fenders. I’ve also scratchbuilt the front removed the front parts of the fenders
fender brackets leftovers with thin plastic and one of the rear flaps, a common fea-
PAINTING AND
sheet (0,2 mm). I wanted the vehicle to ture of battle beaten Stalin tanks. WEATHERING
look very beaten up and that’s why I The paintjob was done basically in
two steps. First I sprayed a primer coat of
Tamiya’s Deep Green shade. This basis
allowed me to work further with a new
set of Lifecolor paints dedicated to Soviet
vehicles – a 3 in 1 soviet AFV 4 BO
green three paint set. The set consists of
three paints devoted especially for the
Color Modulation technique so we have
a ground medium green shade, a flashed
light green one and a deep green shade
color. I proceeded with the model, mask-
ing some of the areas for painting with
paper card self-made masks. After this
Using the sponge technique we apply different green hues on different areas of phase I enhanced some of the details
the vehicle in order to increase the realistic looks on the kit. with a very light green color composed

SPONGE TECHNIQUE

The same process is applied in the track area, a few paint chips are now applied with a paintbrush.

Mud on the wheel area will be obtained by applying Once we’ve applied two or three different color pigment
pigments which will be fixed with Mig Productions’ hues on the moistened areas we press the pigments
pigment fixer. against the surface with an old brush in order to fix these
14 properly in place.
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MATERIALS EMPLOYED
BASE:
Deep green (Tamiya)
MODULATION (Lifecolor):
Modulation kit AFV 4BO green
WASH:
Neutral wash (Mig Productions)
Brown Van Dyck
SCRATCHES:
70.002 (Vallejo)
MUD EFFECTS:
Flat Earth XF52 (Tamiya)
Brown XF72 (Tamiya)
PIGMENTS:
Dark Slate grey(Vallejo)
Green Earth (Vallejo)
OIL STAINS
Braun Van Dyck In this picture we can see the final mud effect on the track area.
Neutral wash (Mig Productions)

Numerals are scratched first with a knife and then with a

round toothpick to convey wear and age.

Oil stains are made with Van Dyck brown paint mixed
with White Spirit and Mig Productions’ Neutral Wash.
10-19_JS Model_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 19:37 Página 16

of the flashed shade and geldbraun. Later April 1945 I didn’t want it to be com- over the suspension and lower hull areas.
on I used Mig Prod. neutral wash and pletely wet, yet very weathered after the The wheels were treated with pigments
some van Dyck Braun based pin washes. wet season. That’s why, after some initial (Dark Slate Grey and Green Earth, both
The scratches were painted using Vallejo testing, I came up with an idea to use Vallejo basis), that were later fixed with a
Dark Rust 70.302 paint diluted with the excellent Tamiya acrylics (Flat Earth pigment fixer. I usually apply pigments
retarder. I find it to be the most useful XF 52 and Brown XF 72) as the basic on wet surfaces and tap them with an
color for this purpose. This basically weathering component. These were old soft brush. I apply two or three
sums up the painting process. diluted with edible alcohol. By mixing shades at once so I get more color diver-
The weathering of the kit was done in them with alcohol I was able to scratch sity as a result. The oil stains on the
a different manner than I normally do it. and remove some areas of the so painted wheels were made using van Dyck Braun
This time I wanted to try out something surfaces due to weathering. All was done white spirit based solution and with the
else, a kind of dry mud effect on the hull with fine brushes, layer after layer differ- help of Mig Prod. neutral wash.
and turret. Since I wanted to show the ent earth tones were applied on the mod-
tank operating in the first warm days of el. I also applied some delicate splashes

THE FIGURES

When including
figures we can
always tell a story
on the vehicle that
we are portraying,
even if we are not
making a base or a
diorama worthy of
that name.

The figures were

made with Magic
Sculp (two
component type
putty) and most
details were done
with Greenstuff
16 putty.
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Base color for the items of clothing on

the figures is Vallejo Panzer Aces
Canvas 70.314
Application of highlights with a
mixture of base color and Highlight
British Tkcr 70.321
Shadows include Dark Mud 70316 and
base color
Camouflage spots are done with color
references Leather Belt 70.312 and
Dark Rust 70.302
Detail profiling is made with a
mixture of Dark Mud 70.316 and
Highlight Ger. (Black) 70.337 using a
retardant which will help us obtain
the thinnest lines possible.
A vehicle without figures is not that
interesting as it can be with them on
board. They not only add some life to the
subject we’re building, but also colors it
and tends to attract more attention to the
subject matter. Sculpting can be difficult
but you can always try converting some
stock offerings to your own ideas. By
adding figures you can always tell a story
with a single vehicle, yet without neces-
sarily adding groundwork. In my case I
choose to portray a conversation of the
crew and a recon troop squad leader. Late
war soviet tank crews can be seen wear-
ing leather like black jackets on their stan-
dard tanker uniforms and overalls. After
some research and help from my col-
league Taesung Harmms of Alpine Minia-
tures it appeared that the jackets were
made of some kind of fire retardant mate-
rial so these were no leather as I initially
though them to be. As for the recon
troop leader I decided to give it a go with
a very common type of camouflage in
the so called amoeba camouflage pattern.
Development of camouflage clothes in
the Red Army began even before the war

COLOR CHART
UNIFORM:
GREEN:
Base: Canvas 70.314
Shadows: Dark Mud 70.316
Ligth: Highlight British Tkcr.70.321
CAMOUFLAGE SPOTS:
Leather Belt 70.312
Dark Rust 70.302
PROFILING:
Dark Mud 70.316
Highlight Ger. (Black) 70.337
17
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the details with Greenstuff putty. Both

can be mixed together and that gives you
the flexibility of GS and the ductility of
MS in one. In my case Greenstuff is good
as it comes to do details such as hair,
belts, buttons, resculpting facial expres-
sions etc. but some sculptors use this
putty even for larger parts of their sculpts.
Nevertheless for sculpting clothes I prefer
Magic Sculp. The tools I use are very sim-
ple consisting of a spatula made of an old
brush stick while the main folds sculpting
tools are shaped toothpicks. It’s always
useful to have a sharp blade at hand. GS
as well as MS can be smoothed with
water. For the belt of the recon trooper I
used led foil strip. The buckle comes from
a PE set of distinctions, buckles and other
useful stuff my friends once designed for
me. If you want to achieve as much real-
ism as possible it’s important to focus not
only on the details and folds of the
clothes but most of all on the language of
the human body. Choosing the proper
Figure finished and placed on the vehicle
gestures, face expressions helps achieving
a natural look in a figure. In my case I
wanted to portray a situation that may
have occurred during the advance toward
the city of Berlin; a recon squad reports
his observations to the crew of a JS 2 that
made its advance up to this point
through a village somewhere outside the
Berlin suburbs. I wanted that figure to
be in a quite dramatic pose hence
his worried face looks. The
commander of the tank indi-
cates some areas of
advance on the map
while the gunner
gives a long gaze
upon the distance.
I have added
some rugged-
ness to their
faces by
painting some
facial hair to empha-
size their weary looks.
and in 1941 the amoeba pattern was sources claim that there were even blue The paints I use for figure
already available though it was not as types with that pattern, but I wasn’t able painting are mostly Vallejo Model
common in other army units like recon, to confirm that. The figures were sculpted Color and Panzer Aces with the addi-
sniper or engineer troops. By 1945 Red with Magic Sculp using the excellent Hor- tion to an acrylic retardant from Talens.
Army deployed other types of camouflage net heads and hands sets. I also have As for painting of the camo smock for the
clothes issued to specialized army units some boot castings that I use as a basis base color I’ve chosen a khaki green tone:
but I was very keen on painting the for my own conversions. The armatures Vallejo Panzer Aces Canvas 70.314. For
amoeba type camouflage. This type con- of the figures were made with paper clips the shades I added Dark Mud 70.316 to
sisted of dark brown blotches printed on and magic sculp made torsos and groins. the base color and for the highlights
different color smocks and trousers, from For sculpting I always use Magic Sculp Highlight British Tkcr. 70.321. These
18 dark sand to khaki green ones. Some two part epoxy putty and make most of tones are applied as follows – the high-
10-19_JS Model_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 19:38 Página 19

lights on the upper edges of the folds of All in all, I had a lot of fun with this process. I find this satisfactory and prior
the uniform and the shades in the lower project, experimenting with acrylic paints to this I was able to use this technique in
ones. By doing this you enhance the 3D and an alcohol based weathering tech- another modeling project. Needles to say,
look of the figures. For the blotches, col- nique. This attempt ended up with some the Stalin tank along with its crew is
ors no Leather Belt 70.312 and Dark Rust nice dry weathering results yet without planned for a diorama but that’s another
70.302 were used. To get even having too much pigment involved in the story altogether. Hoping this article will
more depth on the figure I also bring some useful information to you I
stressed the contours with a mix- wish you all a happy modeling time.
ture of Dark Mud 70.316 and High-
light Ger. (Black) 70.337 with a rea-
sonable amount of retarder to get the
thinnest lines possible.

19
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20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:47 Página 21

T-34/76
By: Diego Quijano
pictures of the author
Tamiya 1/48

Equilibrium is an illusion; stability is a lie waiting to be discovered. That is

our dark side. Like a building in ruins. Like a useless machine. As foolish as
it is ineluctable. Like a war. A heap of intentional nonsense, a mountain
of debris waiting for someone to cleanse it. As absurd as
unavoidable. We are what we do and we do what we are. And we
keep doing it.
A hundred shadows of chaos. An uncontrollable vertigo which
imposes itself over reason, scratching our guts, removing
something that we rather leave on its own.
Letterheads announcing a wasted past which becomes
cloudier within memory like pipes that drain reality to
nowhere. A clock running the other way around while
time has stopped, a future lost, a lesson unlearned. Fallen
flag of defeat, power seized, power gotten back, and lost
once more. Like sanity. Rusty snakes reminiscent of our
natural sins, removing certainties that we rather
left forgotten. The certainty that everything
happens for a reason. Certainty that we
deserve our punishment. And we know it.
21
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I don’t know what would be paths in the hobby just a little different; in a world as large as our diorama base.

N your case, but I surf the net

more and more so for sheer
entertainment, getting carried away. I not
with fewer restrictions, something direct
from our guts.
From the beginning this T-34 was a
Always acting without fear of what some-
body out in the net or some contest jury
might say. We are small gods with total
only visit hobby related websites, there project with a primarily visual intent, so power over the worlds that we create; at
are hundreds of stimuli just a click away, do not seek for a realistic result. The laws least we have that left. Do not allow to
photography, painting, sculpture, CG and of nature are here interpreted in the most take that away from us. Do not let any-
even some music and poetry. Hundreds convenient way, without complexes. I body take that moment away from you.
of stimuli that can lead us to make our acted like a little god with his little whims Let’s go.

Polystyrene or Styrofoam is a very practicable material for

doing the structure of our base. It is light and soft but it
has enough rigidity to be able to work with it effortlessly The basic structure is not more than a block of Styrofoam
with knives and files. Additionally it is cheap and easy to covered with irregular chunks of this material torn with
obtain in a number of shops. my bare hands. This material can be easily glued with
white carpenter’s glue.

We can also carve Styrofoam and

make it look like a brick wall. With a
metal ruler and a sharp knife we mark
the parallel and horizontal lines and
then we can carve with a knife the
vertical separations. Easy and quick.

If we wish to widen the separations

we can mark again the lines with the
end of the metal ruler.

I also used this material to

manufacture most of the required
loose bricks.

22
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:48 Página 23

In order to texturize the debris I

glued small pieces of wall and bricks
together with white glue.

A very useful material for making

debris is plaster, in pre-molded
shapes or shapes made by ourselves.
Plaster can be tinted by adding acrylic
paint to the plaster mixture.

The pieces of plaster can also be

glued with white glue. These can be
adapted for gluing with a sharp knife
and remove as much Styrofoam as we
need or like to.

23
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:49 Página 24

The pieces of broken ground are made

by putting some tin rods between the
two layers of plaster while fresh and
still in the mold. This is a simple way
of conveying the metal bars used to
strengthen the structure of real life
concrete. Then we can “break” the
piece to our liking.

Thin wooden strips sold on hobby

stores are very useful to recreate
wooden floors. We just have to cut
these to measure and glue them with
cyanoacrylate glue.

In order to fit these in place, a little

slot should be carved on the
Styrofoam surface. Then apply a little
white glue and we’re all set.

COLOR CHART
ESCOMBROS: White oxide de Lifecolor. Embarrado de orugas y tren de rodaje:
Bricks: Red Vallejo, Medium Rust y Old Rust: X-1 Black + XF-64 Red Brown. Mud: AK Pigments European Earth,
Rust de (AK). Black wash: Wash for Nato camo plaster, white spirit.
Dust: Pigment Light dust (AK). vehicles (AK). AK Pigments: European Earth, Dark
Cement dirt: Russian 4BO shadow, Rainmarks: Rainmarks for Nato Tanks Earth.
Chipping color (AK). (AK). Fresh Mud: Fresh Mud (AK).
Dirtiness: Black and brown oils. Streaking: Streaking grime for Dark Exhausts dirt : Pigment Medium Rust
TANK: Yellow vehicles, Streaking Grime for and Black (AK).
Base: Set modulación 4BO Russian Panzer Grey de AK/AMMO.
Green (AK). Suciedad de paneles: Track Wash de
24 White paint: Worn effects (AK), (AK).
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:49 Página 25

At this point we can put the kit in place to see how it

will sit in the diorama. In order to be able to leave the
kit stable we’ll have to cut some Styrofoam on some
spots and add a little bit of putty on some other places.
The goal here is to leave the kit in a totally stable
surface. Other items which can be added are chairs or
any other piece of household furniture in the 1/48
scale. In this diorama I added a grandfather’s clock.
The large pipe shown is made with a styrene tube.
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:49 Página 26

After we’ve applied a coat

of priming to the full
ensemble we begin to
paint the bricks with two
or three different brick
color hues.

In order to convey the

mortar between bricks we
do a plaster wash applied
with a thin brush.

Once plaster has dried up

we can remove the excess
between bricks by rubbing
with a stiff haired
paintbrush.

Loose bricks are dirtied a little bit with a light colored pigment wash. Styrofoam is a pretty sensible material to enamel
thinners so it is recommendable not to use White Spirit. Odorless thinner is softer than White Spirit so it is a better
26 choice.
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:49 Página 27

Once the wash has dried up completely we When dirtying the concrete blocks I employed a couple of highly diluted
can clean up some bricks with a paintbrush acrylic paint references. Any brown hue or dark gray works great for this.
soaked in odorless thinner.

Tinted plaster is great for making fractured walls.

Other than acrylic paint, the mixture also has
some white glue to make it less fragile. Bricks are Both the white lines and the dark bricks are colored with acrylic
carved with a small saw. paint.

Now we can put the smaller pieces of debris and

gravel. Applying the gravel and the fixer with a
thin paintbrush is a very simple chore.

First we spread the gravel where we want to

with any flat tipped tool.

Once the gravel is distributed to our taste, we

apply a few drops of fixer until the gravel is
moistened. When dry, gravel will not move from
27
its place.
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:50 Página 28

Another
important
element is the
Soviet flag. It has
been made with
aluminum sheet
from a disposable
aluminum food
tray. The mast
for the flag is a
Plasticard rod.
A zenithal
lighting will be
given by applying
first white paint
and then we’ll do
some shadows
with black paint
applied with the
airbrush kit
almost touching
the ground. It is
recommendable
to use glossy
colors in order to
obtain a flat
surface. We will
apply mat varnish
later on.
Now we paint
the surface with
diluted red paint
until we have the
adequate color
consistency.
The hammer and
the sickle are
painted first with
a light color that
28: The sign is made with Plasticard sheet and rods. The covers the
paint chipped areas are made with the hairspray surface well and
technique. First we prime the surface with Tamiya’s then we use
glossy dark gray paint. Then we apply a generous coat of yellow paint.
hairspray sprayed with our airbrush kit. Now we can paint This was some
the sign, first the color of the letters and then after putting painstaking work,
the masking we apply the background color –all are next time I’ll do
Tamiya acrylics-. You should do it all in one sitting it with decals.
because we should not let the hairspray sit for too long.
We finish the
29: Now we soak the surface with water and we chip the work by dirtying
surface by rubbing with a brush. We can also do thinner the surface with
paint chips with a toothpick. splashes made
with several
30: The grainy rust surfaces are made with a dark brown brown colored
Tamiya acrylic applied with the dry brush technique; we and black
basically have to rub the surface with an almost dry enamels and then
paintbrush. we varnish it
with mat varnish.
31: we finish the work with a few rust streaks. First we The flag mast
apply some “Track Wash” paint on the upper areas and was painted with
then we drag it down with a paintbrush soaked in White mat aluminum
Spirit. Just in case somebody needs to know in the sign it paint and then it
reads “Movies”, a fair warning that the scene you are was dirtied just
28 looking at does not have to conform strictly to reality. like the flag.
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:50 Página 29

Now we can talk about the AFV. In

order to apply some zenithal lighting
to the vehicle I employed three
shades of 4BO Russian Green. I’ve
used a medium shade for the base
color, a dark one for the lower areas
and a light one for the higher areas
and the horizontal ones. No color
modulations or other complications
were entertained here; I did it the
fast way.
In order to convey the white paint
remains we apply first a good coat of
hairspray for paint chips “Worn
Effects”.
Now we apply a –not too thick- coat
of white acrylic paint. The Lifecolor
paints are highly suitable for doing
paint chips.

Paint is peeled by soaking the surface with water and

rubbing the area with a stiff haired paintbrush. The amount
and extension of the peeled areas will depend on the amount
of water and the pressure that we exert with the brush.
We can get more precise paint chips by scratching the
surface with a toothpick instead of a paintbrush.
It is better to work in small areas at one time because we
don’t want the white paint coat to dry too much, because
chipping will become increasingly harder as a result. It is also
important not to do a very regular chipping pattern. It will
end up looking better if we leave some areas with more
paint and other areas with barely any trace.
29
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:50 Página 30

Rust chips are painted by hand with 44: With this color we recreate the 45: The lines and the raised areas are
Tamiya enamels. The color is a granulated rust areas by applying enhanced with a black paint wash.
mixture of gloss black with a little paint with the dry brush technique.
red brown paint.

Now we drag
paint vertically
with a
paintbrush
soaked in White
Spirit. In order
to do this in a
correct angle it
is best to place
the tank on the
base. Once
paint is dry the
effect can be
smeared a little
by rubbing on
the surface with
a smooth clean
The following effect is the rain marks. First and dry
we apply enamel paint on the areas that we paintbrush.
will be working on.

After the rain marks were applied I added a little bit of Now we drag paint with a paintbrush slightly moistened
contrast by doing a few dark streaks. The method is in White Spirit. The effect can of course be smeared once
basically the same; first we apply paint –this time in a dry by rubbing the area with a smooth paintbrush.
30 more precise manner- drawing the streak itself.
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:50 Página 31

The exact same method is now used to apply a slightly Then we expand and smear this paint. I like to do this
different color hue to some areas. First we apply paint effect only on one side of some panel lines or angles in
–“Track Wash” in this case- or any other brown colored hue. order to create some contrast with other panels.

Once we’ve recreated dirt with enamel paint, perhaps the More effects! There is still much fun ahead. Now we’ll do
remains of the white paint camouflage are now too bleak some dirt streaks coming from the side grilles. Any dark
on some areas. A fast way of fixing this is to use brown hue will work here. The method is always the
watercolor pencils. If the pencil you’re using does not same; apply paint, spread, and smear.
work very well it may be because the surface you’re
working on is perhaps too glossy. A coat of mat varnish
will fix this problem.

Now it’s time for mud.

The mixture is your
typical combination of
sand colored pigment with
plaster and some paint to
adjust the color hue.
Everything is then diluted
in White Spirit; barely
enough to obtain a sticky
mixture. We can add some
sand to increase the
texture but in this scale it
won’t be necessary. This
first coat will only give us
the texture, so color is not
an important issue for the
time being. 31
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:51 Página 33

At this point we can glue

the tank to the base
permanently in order to
apply the final effects to
the whole ensemble. In
order to pull off some
more nuances on the
debris area I used diluted
(with odorless thinner)
oil paint (remember that
White Spirit harms the
Styrofoam base).

The tow cable has been

painted with a gray
colored base and then I
gave it a black wash to
enhance the texture of
the cable. Applying a
rusty touch is a simple
thing to do and can be
done with a couple of
rust colored pigments.
We just have to spread
the dry pigments on
some areas, and then rub
the surface slightly.

The exhausts
have some dry
rust colored
pigments (for
some reason
these appear too
orange in this
picture) and to
recreate soot I
used black
colored pigment.

The final step includes adding some more gravel on some The finishing touch is a little sand colored pigment on top
crevices of the tank and gravel is then adhered to the surface of the gravel to give it a dirtier look.
pretty much the same way we’ve done it with the debris heaps. 33
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:51 Página 34

34
20-35_T-34/76_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 20:52 Página 35

35
T 34/85 in
By: Fabrizio Pincelli pictures of the author

Dragon 1/35

The T-34/85 is the last and final evolution of the medium battle
tank of the Soviet Army. Developed between 1943 and 1944,
starting with the standard T 34 armed with cannon and 76.2
mm, the T-34/85 had the same (and excellent) hull of the
previous models of the T-34 but differed from its predecessors
because of the much larger turret, which unlike previous
versions had a much thicker armor and could accommodate
three internal members of the crew
(commander, pointer, serving the cannon)
and the main armament, consisting of a
long-barreled cannon by 85 mm. What I
have play, it's the famous version with
the "bedspring", side grilles, that
some tanks were equipped
during the conquest of
Berlin in 1945.

36
n Berlin

37
 ll those who follow me and change "nation" and to venture into fit different wheels visible on many vin-

A who know me, know of unbrid-

led passion I feel for the Ger-
man tanks of WWII and the adoration I
new construction and painting? I liked
the side grilles to protect the Panzer-
faust, were nothing but nets for mat-
tage photos. To summarize it all, I wan-
ted to venture into a new world and
apply my techniques on new models to
feel for their square shapes and precise, tresses welded to the hull and turret, a make room for my creativity and my
typical of the German tradition. This modification pitched performed during imagination!
time, however, I asked myself: why not the invasion of Berlin. I liked the fact to

THE KIT
The Dragon kit is well made with
perfect joints and easy to assemble,
complete with photo-etched parts to
build a model detailed enough. The
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
side grilles "Bedspring" are not the
best but with a good deal of wear and - Dragon 6266 T34/85 Bedspring
tear, the result is satisfactory. Because - Eureka XXL ER 3528 Towing cable for T34/76
absent in the kit, I marked the welding - Eureka XXL ER 3501 Towing cable for Panther
of the turret with Magic Sculpt putty. - Friulmodel ATL 09 Metal track T34/85
Using two sets of wheels Panzer Art - Panzer Art RE 35-168 Captured Panther wheels
(one adapted for the wheels of the - Panzer Art RE 35-028 Late Spinder Wheels
Panther and the other for late model T 34/85
wheels), a steel cable Panther captured
and trusty Friul tracks, the result makes
it an excellent mix ready to be painted
and aged properly. I really enjoyed the
build and I think this will be the first of
38
a long series.
39
 PAINTING

The Tamiya primer is applied after a

thorough cleaning with pure alcohol
sprayed with an airbrush.

The base color is a mix of Deep

green XF 26 + Lemon Yellow X8 +
RLM Grey X22 in these
percentages: 90% XF26, 5% X8 and
5% X22. With this shade, I cover
the whole model.

I perform a modulation of the base

color by adding a few drops of
Lemon Yellow X8 and White XF2,
covering the upper tiers of the
model.
 The white line of the
turret has been
reproduced with a
brush as opposed to
numbers that are
nothing more than the
decals supplied with
the kit.

All wheels are ready

for weathering.

Using a home-
made tone,
spread a thin
layer of dust on
all wheels.
41
 Apply a copious amount of pigments Ak on all wheels
trying to vary the tone at each wheel.
Fixed pigments with your Fixer.
After complete drying, apply the product Ak Engine Oil, to
simulate the grease around the wheel axle.

Washing
selectively using
the product
Ak Wash Dark
Brown.

To emphasize the contrast between

dark and light areas, the use of oil
paint Mig, Shadow Brown. I apply it
directly on the affected area with a
dry brush, pull the color going to
42 blend it into the surrounding area..
The side grilles "Bedspring" are painted with light shade used for modulation of the base color. With the technique of
sponge, I simulate the rust using various shades of the set Lifecolor. I start with a dark shade of large areas, a mid-tone on
the central areas and a light shade concentrated on the edges.

Prepare a
mixture of
pigments Ak,
glue and
water. With a
spatula, apply
it on the
outside of the
tracks.

The base of the tracks is made up of two shades, Ak Kurks

Earth for the external one in contact with the ground and
Gun Metal Tamiya for the internal.

With the
product Ak
Fresh
Mud'm
going to
change the
hue of the
mud
simulating
areas more
or less dry.

After a few seconds I apply over the mixture of fine sand

blowing off the excess. The sand that creates graininess of
dried mud encrusted in the tracks.
43
 The process for the inner part of the tracks, is identical to that used for the wheels. Apply copious amounts of pigment
and fixed with your Fixer.

With the product Ak Fresh Mud, I'm going to create

contrast between the track links, simulating wet and dry
areas as reality. Have photos of real models is better
understood as the tanks are reduced after a hike on the
battlefield and serve us modelers to try to reproduce this
on our models. The area of the tracks in contact with the
wheels in iron, was "scratched" with sandpaper.

With the colors green and white

Italeri, I create a very light shade.
The use to simulate the chipping
surface of the base paint using the
technique of the sponge.

For deep chipping

use the product Ak
Chipping color.

With the pigment, Ak Steel Dark,

put on a finger, refresher all sharp
edges to bring out the metal live
44
in areas of greatest wear.
 Proceed with the simulate dust /
mud deposited on the fenders. I
spread the pigment Ak Light Dust
the affected area.

This time, to fix the pigment,

use the product Ak NATO
Rainmarks that allows the
pigment to adhere smoothly and
once dried, to be treated as a
normal surface.

With the product Ak Earth

Effects, I simulate the wetter
areas, especially in the corners
where the remains moist longer.

With the product Ak Fresh Mud,

create streaks of wet mud on sloping
rear fenders.
45
 With the hue dust
created ad hoc and
sprayed with an
airbrush, I cover
slightly flat surfaces
and the base of the
inclined.

With a fine brush, I

begin to mimic the
signs of the rain in
the dust using the
product Ak Engine
Oil diluted to 50%
with white spirit.

Same procedure to simulate the streaks

of dust using the product Ak NATO
Rainmarks.

46
To simulate the mud dry,
use the color Ak NATO
Rainmarks mixed with
COLOR CHART
stucco finish. I apply it in
the lower areas with an old
- Primer: Tamiya fine spray
brush and a toothpick. - Base color: XF26 Deep green+X8 Lemon
Yellow
- CM: XF26 D. green+X8 L. Yellow+XF2 White
- Selective washing: Ak Interactive Dark wash
- Shadow: Colore a olio Mig Shadow Brown.
- Paint chips: acrilici Italeri e Ak Chipping color.
- Pigments: Ak light dust, Ak European Earth,
Ak Dark Earth, Ak Dark Steel + Ak Fixer.
- Earth tones: Ak Nato Rain Marcs, Kursk earth,
Earth effects, Fresh Mud.
- Rust tones: Lifecolor Dust and Rust, 207, 208,
209

47
49
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 26/02/14 01:00 Página 50

Voros

By: Cristobal Vergara Durán pictures of the author and Rodrigo Hernández Cabos

Trumpeter 1/35

A few years ago there was not any styrene Soviet tractor kits, so
collectors had to recourse to rare and expensive resin kits.
Trumpeter’s Voroshilovets was the very first one of these and in
all likelihood, given its shape and size, the favorite for many
hobbyists.

50
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:00 Página 51

shiloVets
tractor

51
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:00 Página 52

that no real unit has survived and there- compare the details on both we’ll find a
ASSEMBLY fore there are none on any museum in number of incorrect details. The most
The Chinese kit is OK, but the main order to compare its details with this kit. important of these is in the load box
problem we encounter here is the fact If we look at the period pictures and itself. The Chinese kit has four planks on

In this
picture we
can see the
improvemen
ts made on
the tractor’s
door with
P.E. pieces
and
Plasticard
sheet.

Detail of the radiator –the grille has been

replaced for a P.E. piece-.

On the floor
of the cabin
we’ve
placed a P.E.
piece which
conveys the
right
texture.

The seat should have three

sections, so these are carved
with a scriber tool.

Details on the inside of the cabin made out of Plasticard and copper wire.
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:01 Página 53

The sides of the load box are made

anew because these should have five
wooden planks each instead of four
(which is how the kit is made). These
planks are made out of Plasticard
sheet textured with a file and an X-
Acto knife.

The load box with the new wooden

plank panels fully assembled.

its sides but that would only be correct

for the early pre-series units. Most
Voroshilovets have on the sides of its box
five wooden planks; this means that
these ought to be narrower. Also, the
inside of the cabin is poorly detailed. The
fuel deposits on the frontal area of the
box lack a number of details. There were
also some oil deposits that were located
underneath the benches for troop trans-
portation, but these seats were never
installed because this tractor was used
from the start to carry very heavy loads
and the rule stated that these deposits
needed to be visible on top of the load
box.

The fuel deposits are replaced for the

ones in the Eduard set.

The two small oil deposits are made from scratch with
Plasticard sheet.

There are several kits out on the market From the start I wanted to use my some work and detailing, but I was los-
to provide the missing details for the tractor to move around the cumbersome ing the opportunity of being able to
Voroshilovets; the Voyager set and the B4 203mm gun. There is a famous cam- place boxes and other items on the load
Eduard ones are P.E. sets. The last one paign conversion for the Voroshilovets box which is something that certainly
mentioned would be the one I’ll recom- which consists of a rigid roof on the load adds a lot of color and eye appeal to the
mend, because it is the only one which box. I discarded it because I thought it kit. I had to make up my mind. I ended
includes the fuel deposits. Friulmodel was too obvious so I decided to cus- up choosing both options even if this
offers metal track links which are far better tomize it as much as I could. With the was going to mean twice as much work:
than the plastic ones included in the hood, the kit looked much more compact I used the hood structure and left it with
and nice. With this I was saving myself the canvas removed which would allow 53
Trumpeter kit. I actually used all three kits.
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:01 Página 54

me to see the inside of the box complete- bulkhead separating the cabin from the tool. All the transparent pieces are quite
ly. This actually forced me to recreate the motor was discarded and a new accurate thick. The wipers are actually made up of
girders and correctly rebuild the walls of styrene replacement was made and glued two pieces each. The transparent pieces
the load box. I was fully aware that this on the very edge of the cabin. Using half were actually replaced by cutouts made
was a lot of work but who said that a millimeter thick plasticard strips I recre- on 0.4mm thick acetate sheet.
recreating a Voroshilovets correctly was ated the reinforcement structures on the Afterwards I painted the inside of the
an easy job? interior of the cabin’s walls. cabin. It was meant to be green, but I
I began the assembly work by the cab- The seat should be divided in three used a paler shade in order to create
in. I filled up all the mold ejector circlets equal parts so I marked the separation some contrast with the outside. The
with putty and then sand it smooth. The line between these parts with a scriber seats were painted CUERO OSCURO
and the splashboard was painted in
medium gray. Then I used some oil
paints to weather things up a bit and
then I also applied on the floor a few
MIG pigment references. The use of

Fully painted dashboard.

Both the doors and the inside of the cabin have been
painted in a green hue paler than the one on the outside.
Pigment concentration has been increased on the floor of This was done to differentiate both. Weathering effects
the cabin in order to get a feeling of dirtiness. are taken care of with different oil paint colors.

The transparent styrene parts are very thick, so these are

replaced by copies made out of 0.4mm thick acetate sheet.
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:01 Página 55

Cabin mounted on the tractor’s body; we can see the

motor underneath the cabin.

Fully painted motor for this tractor.

A thick plastic template is used to manufacture identical Five girders joined by the sides and the upper central area
girders. Round tipped pliers are used to bend the 0.9mm with thin P.E. strips.
copper wire. Adjustments and comparisons with the Colocación de las piezas del interior de la caja de carga.
template help us create perfectly shaped girders.
Putting the different items on the load box.
The “basket” used for carrying projectiles around has been
made with 0.3mm styrene strips.
Wooden box used to keep the projectile’s propellant,
made with the same technique employed for doing the
sides of the load box.
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:01 Página 56

these depends on whether we leave the four 4.22mm wooden planks, we’ll put After that I cut the glued strips to the
door open showing or not the inside of five 3.4mm planks. I cut the strips with required measurements. I also added a
the driver’s cabin. If the doors are going those measurements out of a 0.4mm few strips with screws on the hinges of
to be left closed we can skip this step thick Plasticard sheet, and then I recreat- the newly created load box sides.
altogether. Once the cabin is finished I ed the texture of wood with a file and On the inside of the load box I also
assembled the load box. The height of refined the wood lines with an X-acto made the small oil deposits out of plasti-
56 the walls is 17mm, so instead of having knife. Then I glued these in groups of 5. card sheet. These were not given an
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:02 Página 57

extreme amount of detail because these and with some thin P.E. strips I was able ticard sheet recreating the wooden tex-
deposits later on would be largely cov- to join these to the sides and to the cen- ture just like I did the lateral planks of the
ered with canvases or tools. The fuel tral upper area so the results were a frail load box.
deposits included with the kit are poorly structure with five girders separated from Putty (two component type) was
detailed and were replaced by the ones the loading area. This made it easy for employed for recreating the canvas which
found on the Eduard set. Later on I me when it came to assemble and paint is lying in a disorderly way among the
assembled the box with its sides and all the pieces in this area. other items in the load box. The small
base on top of the main body of the The Friul tracks were assembled in the transport carts for the projectiles were
vehicle. usual way. The headlights were hollowed included in the gun kit.
The next step was to make the girders to recreate with transparent plastic a light
for the canvas. The first thing I did was bulb after having painted the cavity sil-
to make a thick Plasticard template with ver. I added a wire to these on the out-
the correct shape. That was obtained side made out of copper wire.
from the piece of canvas included with In order to make a more believable kit
the kit. Then with 0.9mm copper wire I wanted to put on the load box items MATERIALS EMPLOYED
and round tipped pliers I bent the wire in related to the B4 gun. There are some
shape. When set against the template I aluminum projectiles for this weapon, Kit:
actually succeeded in making five identi- but these shells were transported inside TRUMPETER Voroshilovets 1/35
cal girders which was a capital thing some sort of cylindrical containers which No 01573
when striving to get a realistic look. On looked like baskets. These containers Accessories:
the areas where these are bent I glued a were made out of 0.3mm thick Plasticard VOYAGER WWII Russian
small plastic reinforcement. The tip of strip. I did two that can be well seen Voroshilovets Tractor PE35394
the girders was sharpened with a thick with all the details and another simplified EDUARD Voroshilovets Tractor
file in order to be able to insert these on pair -simple cylinders- which were mostly 35153
a small plastic cylinder which is placed covered. The sacks for the projectiles’ FRIULMODEL Russian
on the sides of the loading area. I put propellant were stored inside a wooden Voroshilovets Tractor metal tracks
each girder in place without gluing these box which was made with the same Plas- ATL-108

57
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:02 Página 58

Base paint is a coat of

Humbrol’s VERDE
OSCURO US applied with
the dry brush technique,
darkened for the
shadowed areas and
VERDE BOSQUE for the
raised areas. This way
we’ll enhance the details
on the vehicle.

Blue, ochre and gray color

washes provide a greater
richness to the base color.
For the wooden planks on
the load box, these
washes will work for
altering the appearance of
each individual wooden
plank. The star is a
Verlinden transfer.

We can see here the dirt

applied specially on the
lower areas of the vehicle.
This dirt has been created
by airbrushing paint and
adding POLVO CASCOTE
and BARRO SECO MIG
pigments.

58
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:02 Página 59

never found a Russian specimen with were sent to Kursk and the geometric
PAINTING tactical numerals. I’ve only found one symbols that I’ve mentioned were found
There is no additional pattern or color vehicle with small tactical symbols like a on units used for the battle of Berlin.
for this other than the 4BO green. There small triangle or a white circle right by Once the transparent areas (windows
is a color profile with sand and brown the red star on the doors of the tractor. and headlights) were covered up with
hues for this tractor, but I’ve never seen These are actually the only things I’ve Maskol I applied a coat of Humbrol’s
the picture of the real vehicle and I think used for my Voroshilovets because I 116. Then with a brush and a very dark
that somebody invented it. Additionally I wanted it to make it one of the units that shade of green I marked all the details. I

The fully finished tracks once the Track area: Here we can see the application of color pigments.
weathering treatments described
above have been applied. In the
picture we can see the polished steel
wheel prints.

Here we can see all the items that

will be placed in the load box. The
canvas has been sculpted out of putty
(two component type) and has been
given a careless and disorderly shape
on top of the other items.

Pigments are fixed with AK’s

pigment fixer.

Grease stains are created with a

mixture of red, black paint and gloss
varnish applied in wheels and axles.

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50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:03 Página 60

REFERENCES
Vasily Petrov
Tractor Voroshilovezt
M- Hobby 4 (121) 2011
Moscú. Rusia
Jochen Vollert
Tyagatshi
The Tankograd Publissing.
Trial&Technik
Wilhelmstr.2b. 91054. Alemania.
2006
www.sovietmodeler.com

Finished kit after dirt and pigments

has been applied.

Fully assembled and painted items

glued on the load box.

The red star is a Verlin-

den transfer.
When ever ything
was fully dry I applied
oil paints 227, PARDO,
411, light gray and 511
which were melted with
White Spirit following
the logical application
pattern: irregularly on
the horizontal surfaces
and in an up and down
movement for the verti-
cal surfaces.
The paint chips or
mapping over the
paintjob was done with
dark green and dark
brown on doors, access
areas and fenders.
Then I applied some
airbrushed dirt, especial-
did a very gentle dry brushing with 150 with different color hues of blue, ochre ly on the lower areas of the vehicle and
on the entire vehicle and allowed it to and gray. For the rubber part of the then I removed it partially using Hum-
dry for several days. Then on the load wheels I used very dark gray paint and brol’s enamel thinner. Then I used some
60 box I did a wash on each wooden plank then used gloss black for the headlights. MIG pigment references (P232 and P234)
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:03 Página 61

on the small crevices of the lower areas. should appear like polished steel. Once filled up with all the items planned, I
Right after having done this I glued in the tracks were set on the kit I finished retouched the accessories with AK’s 015
place the wheels on the tractor. the work on these by enhancing a few because they were much too noticeable.
I mixed red, black and gloss varnish details with silver paint. The last step was to glue the metal gird-
and applied it on certain axis and wheel The window wipers were painted ers in place.
areas trying to convey grease leakage or black and the handles and railings on the During my last visit to Russia, a hob-
hydraulic fluid leaks. doors were painted silver or chrome. I byist from Volgograd (Stalingrad) gave to
The tracks were covered with a mix- also applied a few MIG pigments on the me a figure of a Soviet driver made by
ture of black and gun metal paint and lat- transparent areas, but these were diluted Armor35. The figure however had a lot of
er on I dry brushed these with only gun in alcohol because I didn’t want to dam- air bubbles and I had to change its head
metal paint and applied a number of rust age the transparent plastic. and fix a few defects here and there, but
and sand colored paint washes. I gener- The ammunition boxes were painted it actually looks great with the tractor
ously applied the pigments I’ve men- green, but also doing some generous and its left door open. The colors are the
tioned earlier and on the inside of the mapping chores with a wooden color on standard ones for any Soviet soldier dur-
tracks I marked the wheel prints formed all of these. The canvas was painted with ing the Kursk period.
when the vehicle has been used and that Vallejo’s 924. Once the load box was

COLOR CHART

HUMBROL MODEL COLOR PANZER ACES MIG

116 US Dark Green 941 Burnt Umber 326 Highlight Russian Tkcr.I P232 Dry Mud
150 Forest Green 983 Flat Earth 327 Italian Tankcrew P033 Dark Mud
33 Black 877 Goldbrown 328 Japanese Tankcrew P234 Rubbel Dust
21 Black (Gloss) 924 Russian Uniform WWII VAN GOGH P023 Black Smoke
53 Gun Metal (Metallic) 950 Black 105 Titanium White P025 Standard Rust
56 Aluminium (Metallic) 951 White 227 Yellow Ochre MARABU
11 Silver (Metallic) AK 411 Burnt Sienna 1106 05 Barniz Brillo
76 Uniform Green AK015 Efecto empolvado 511 Cobalt Blue

FIGURE

Resin Armor35 figure with a new head and right Fully painted figure with the regular colors for Soviet
hand. soldiers during the Kursk period.

61
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:05 Página 62

62
50-63_Tractor Voroshilovets_ING_PzI.F 25/02/14 23:07 Página 63

63
interior-contra_STAFF_ING_ESP STAFF 26/02/14 01:08 Página 64

Publishing Manager
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
Editor in Chief
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
Have collaborated in this
issue
Javier Redondo

Armour Modelling Magazine

Radek Pituch,
Diego Quijano
Fabrizio Pincelli
Cristobal Vergara
Photographers
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
EDITORIAL Fernando Cañellas Planchuelo
Illustrations
Rodrigo Hernández Cabos
The previous two issues of Panzer Aces have been devoted to German vehicles made by
national and international hobbyists of different work tendencies and applying the latest Lay Out
KOMMAD S.L.
techniques. These vehicles are still a source of inspiration for hobbyists if we judge it by our
sales reports. However we had to compensate this situation somehow, and what better way Printed by
Imprimia Artes gráficas
to do this than offering a sizable helping of the machines which offered the fiercest resistance
to the German ones: the AFV’s of the Soviet Army. We’re aware of the fact that these Scanning & filmsetting
ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
machines are not as popular among hobbyists as the German ones, but we have gathered an
J. David Hernández Chacón
excellent roster of authors for this issue showcasing a few superb pieces.
Computer Graphics
We begin with Javier Redondo who builds a KV in a little known variant: the flamethrower
J. David Hernández Chacón
version. This model was obtained by mixing parts from two different kits, one for the turret
Editorial and Technical
and another one for the hull. With the “leftover pieces” you could build the regular version
Staff, Administration and
instead of losing your investment. The pictorial treatment includes many novel products that Advertising
have been handled skillfully and criterion to obtain an excellent kit. ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
We are in perpetual awe as to how some eccentric hobbyists reinvent the hobby like Diego c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
Quijano does. It certainly seems hard to see the evolution of this hobby with such strict and 28017 Madrid
well defined rules but there are hobbyists like Diego who insist on playing in the line between Tel.: 913 675 708
the good and the bad taste, always pushing the limits and experimenting with what others 914 086 135
consider excess. His last few works published in Panzer aces already attest to the use of an Fax: 914 085 841
accionpress@euromodelismo.com
“orderly chaos” as his M.O. but the scene reviewed in this issue of his T-34 is perhaps the
paradigm of what we may call neo-baroque tendency. In this experience the author seeks to In Spain
Marisó Chacón
lose the equilibrium, he vouches for instability and the aesthetics and flow of the Tel.: +34 913 675 708
immeasurable. This is definitely a new vision that for good or not, will not leave the reader
Published by
with a sense of indifference. ACCIÓN PRESS, S.A.
We have to acknowledge that Fabrizio Pincelli’s approach is immensely pleasurable because
ISSN: 1886-4457
we always find something original in his kits. In this issue he has prepared for us a T-34 of
those who took part in the battle for Berlin with the familiar anti-Panzerfaust “mattress base”. The reproduction of the
As usual with him, with a realistic finish with the right amount of dirt skillfully applied we are images and texts is prohibited,
face to face again with an extremely interesting piece. using any current or future
technical medium without
One of the greatest experts on the Soviet Army is without question Cristobal Vergara Duran, written consent of the author.
and a piece from him surely had to have some room on this special about Soviet AFV’s. ACCION PRESS, S.A. does not
Curiously enough he has chosen to showcase an extremely interesting piece consisting of a necessarily support its
tractor and the 203mm gun being carried by it. This is possible one of the most attractive and collaborators’ opinions.
curious guns on tracks. The review is centered on the tractor; those interested on the gun can
find it in the latest Euromodelismo magazine published by the same publishing house. As you
will be able to see Cristobal has been a stickler for detail and has made a complete load box
from scratch because the one which came with the kit was inaccurate. Enjoy this piece
www.euromodelismo.com
because it certainly deserves your time.
www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
Magazine?ref=hl
Publicidad_italia_P-51 Allison 03/02/14 01:37 Página 63
Publicidad_CR_ING_Indice 169 17/06/13 20:41 Página 2

Tanks in Russia

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Tanks in Russia I Tanks in Russia II Tanks in Russia III Tanks in Russia IV
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camouflage information. Assembly and Eastern Front, 1943-1945 •Perfiles: Pz.Kpfw. V Panther
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•Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. E:6. •T-34/78 mod.1940 Div. Sch. Pz.Abt. 509
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Pz.Div., Pz. Rgt. 31 “Ekranami” •T-34/76 Mod. 1943. 30th invierno
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•Identification symbols:The •KV-II mod.1939, fábrica Kirovski
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crews in the Eastern Front, •KV-IE. choque de carros pesados
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ACCION PRESS, S.A. HISTOREX AGENTS

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