Technical Sketch

Woven, Natural Waist Seam, Front Button 4cm (1 1/2")

Sewing Instructions
Sewing Pleats on the Front

- To make pleats crease along the pleat markings, then bring creases to corresponding lines,
following the direction of the arrows.
- Baste across waistline 1/2" away from the upper edge. Press.

Sewing Darts on the Back

- Stitch waist darts along the marked line on the Back pant panels. Start from the top of the dart.
Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press darts toward center.
Fabric yield: 2.60yd at 44–45” width fabric
Sewing Zipper Fly and Installing Zipper

Note: It may be necessary to shorten the zipper.

- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of fly extensions, following manufacturer's
instructions.
- Stitch front sections together, starting 1" (2,5 cm) from inseam, up to the circle marking on the
pattern (pic. 1).
- Baste from the circle up to the waist edge at the center front (pic. 2.0). Clip below the fly
extension and press open. On the left seam allowance (the underlap), re-press seam allowance
back 1/8" less than the full seam allowance width, using first crease line as a guide (pic. 2.1).
- Fold the right extension in half wrong sides together and press. Pin zipper with the coils along
the fold and sew 1/8" from the fold, taking only the zipper and the fly extension (pic. 3).
- Turn the zipper right side up, folding the left fly extension under the seam you sewed. Topstitch
1/8" to the right of the zipper, keeping the pant legs out of your stitch line (pic. 4).
- Flip zipper and right extension on top of the left extension and stitch 1/8" along the other side of
the zipper coils, taking only the zipper and the extensions (pic. 5).
- Pin through all layers just below the zipper stop. Place a zipper fly pattern piece on top of the
fabric and trace around to replicate the curve. Topstitch along the curved line on the right side of
the garment, stitching through all layers (make sure the bottom of the curved line is below the
pin) (pic. 6).
- Undo the basting stitch that was keeping center fronts together.
- Fold fly shield wrong sides together and zigzag-stitch the raw edges (pic. 7).
- Cut excess fly extension along the zipper tape. Pin fly shield to the back of the zipper and stitch
through the fly shield, zipper tape, and fly extension (pic. 8).
- Pin fly shield in place, flip to the right side of the garment and bartack over topstitch seam,
stitching through all layers (pic. 8).
Sewing Pockets

- Place pocket facing onto the front pant panel, right sides together matching notches, pin and
stitch along the slanted edge (pic. 1).
- Understich slanted pocket opening (stitch through the facing and seam allowance), at
approximately 3 mm (1/8") from the seam (pic. 2).
- Turn facing onto the wrong side and topstitch 1,5 cm (5/8") from the edge (pic. 3).
- Place pocket lining (pouch) to the pocket facing, matching notches, and stitch around the
bottom of the pocket, then finish the edge with your choice of finishing (pic. 4).
- Baste the pocket at the top and side of the front pant panel to secure it in place within 6 mm
(1/4") from edge (pic. 5).
Sewing Pants Inseams

Finish side seams and inner leg seams of the Front and Back leg panels separately.

- Pin Front and Back together at inner leg seam, matching notches, then stitch. Press open.

Sewing Crotch Seam with zipper

- Pin unsewn remainder of crotch seam, then stitch. Backstitch at the ends to secure.
- Reinforce crotch seam between Front and Back notches by topstitching it at 1/4" (0.6 cm) from
the edge. Serge the crotch seam while trimming close to the second stitch line.
Sewing Pants Side Seams

- With right sides together, pin Front and Back leg panels at the side seam edges, matching
notches.
- Stitch side seams. Press open.

Setting Waistband

Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, following manufacturer's
instructions.

- Turn in seam allowance on upper long edge of the waistband, then press. Trim pressed seam
allowance to 3/8" (1 cm) (pic. 1).
- With right sides together, pin waistband to garment’s waist, matching notches and aligning
centers and side seams. Stitch, then trim seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm). Press seam
allowances toward waistband (pic. 2).
- Fold waistband lengthwise at the foldline, right sides together. Pin the short ends of waistband
and stitch, then trim away excess 1/4" (6 mm) from the stitching line (pic. 3).
- Turn waistband right side out and press. Pin the pressed edge carefully to the waist edge and
slipstitch over seam, then topstitch waistband along the seam, if desired (pic. 4).
- Make buttonholes in waistband at markings and sew buttons to the waistband at markings on
the other side of the waistband (pic. 5).
Hem

- Finish the lower raw edge of the garment. Turn up the hem along foldline, then hand baste close
to fold, if fabric does not hold crease well. Sew hem in place (pic. 1) or use a blind hem stitch
(pic. 2). Press.