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Assignment on Markers
Tom Joseph Kattoor P.G. G.M.T
Contents
Spreading Mode ............................................................................................................................................ 3 FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ ONE/ WAY .................................................................................................. 3 FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN ......................................................................................... 3 FACE TO FACE, NAP/ UP/ DOWN (F/F- N/U/D). ................................................................................ 4 FACE TO FACE, NAP/ ONE/ WAY ....................................................................................................... 4 CLOSED FACE TO FACE, NAP/ ONE/ WAY ................................................................................... 5 CLOSED FACE / FACE, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN .............................................................................. 5 Marker Mode ................................................................................................................................................ 6 NAP-EITHER-WAY (N/E/W) ................................................................................................................. 7 NAP-ONE-WAY (N/O/W) ....................................................................................................................... 7 NAP-UP-AND-DOWN (N/U/P)............................................................................................................... 7 Marker Making Guidelines ........................................................................................................................... 7
Spreading Mode
FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ ONE/ WAY
The highest quality of spreading is achieved by the FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ ONE/ WAY mode of spreading (F/O/W, N/O/W). Each layer of fabric is spread with the face up (usually) permitting the spreader to see all of the face of the cloth to identify any flaws in the fabric. The fabric is spread in one direction only, from the end of the table to the beginning (Right to Left from the machine operators point of view). This will ensure that there will be no problems with nap direction in the finished product. For this mode of spreading, the patterns in an open marker are placed N/O/W.
FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN
The second highest level of spreading quality is possible with the FACE/ ONE/ WAY, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN method of spreading (F/O/WN/ U/D). In this mode, the fabric is spread from the end of the table to the beginning. At the beginning of the table, the spreader cuts the fabric across the width, then must rotate the roll of fabric 1800 (in the same plane). The spreader then continues spreading the fabric from the beginning back to the end of the table where the fabric will be cut and rotated again. This process is repeated until all the plies needed are spread.
FACE TO FACE, NAP/ UP/ DOWN (F/F- N/U/D).
The most efficient (fastest) method of spreading is the second lowest quality method. FACE TO FACE, NAP/ UP/ DOWN (F/F- N/U/D). For Symmetric fabrics, and moderate overall quality, this method of spreading is widely popular. Starting at the end of the table, the spreader spreads the fabric to the beginning of the table. Without cutting the end, the spreader folds over and weights the fabric end down, and begins spreading back toward the end again.
FACE TO FACE, NAP/ ONE/ WAY
When fabric is asymmetric, the FACE TO FACE, NAP/ ONE/ WAY mode allows the use of an open or closed marker on open fabric that is napped or one-directional. The result of this mode is fabric that is face to face, where consecutive plies will yield pairs of parts (left and right). This method is relatively slow, and produces the lowest quality, as the face of every other ply is not visible to the spreader.
This mode also requires the identification of damages parts during the sewing process by the sewing operators, or quality control inspectors.
CLOSED FACE TO FACE, NAP/ ONE/ WAY
Closed fabric is fabric that is folded in its length either due to the textile milling process (as with tubular knits), or deliberately by the mill to facilitate the manufacturing process. (Very wide fabrics might be purchased folded to enable the use of narrower tables for spreading that are already in place in the facility). Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/Way spreading is the process where the spreader starts at the end of the table spreading the fabric (tubular or folded and rolled) back to the beginning of the table. The spreader cuts across the fabric width past the marker end, and then transverses back to the end of the table to start the process again. Two layers of fabric are laid on the table in one pass, where both layers are Face/ Face.
CLOSED FACE / FACE, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN
THE CLOSED FACE / FACE, NAP/ UP/ AND DOWN mode is similar to the Closed Face to Face, Nap/ One/ Way mode except that after the first pass, the spreader does not cut the fabric off at the beginning of the table.
Instead, the fabric (two plies Face to Face) is folded over and the spreader begins spreading back to the end of the table. This results in a Face to Face mode where pairs of plies alternate up and down the table. As this method reverses the direction of the nap, the quality is lower. Unless the nature of the nap or construction is such that in the end use of the product, the nap direction is not noticeable by the consumer, this method would not be used. (See Does it matter when fabric is Upside down?)
Marker Mode
The marker mode is determined by the symmetry and directionality of the fabrics. There are three types of marker modes NAP-EITHER-WAY (N/E/W) NAP-ONE-WAY (N/O/W) NAP-UP-AND-DOWN (N/U/D)
In this case the term nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional it is different end to end.
NAP-EITHER-WAY (N/E/W)
With symmetric, non-directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grainline. This marker making mode is called NAP-Either- Way marker. Pieces are placed for the best utilization of the fabric.
NAP-ONE-WAY (N/O/W)
With asymmetrical and directional fabrics, the orientation of the pattern pieces are extremely important to the consistency and quality of the product. These fabrics require that all the pattern pieces to be placed on a marker in only one direction. This is called NAP-ONE- WAY (N/O/W). With this type of layout, pattern pieces do not interlock as closely; thus, it requires more fabric and reduces fabric utilization
NAP-UP-AND-DOWN (N/U/P)
On some directional fabrics, such as corduroy, it may be possible for all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size to be placed in another direction. This is called NAP-UP-AND-DOWN (N/U/P). . The critical factor is that the nap must run the same direction in all pieces of a garment. Napped fabric such as corduroy will appear shaded if the pieces in one garment have nap running in different direction. Generally N/U/P yields better fabric utilization than N/O/W.
Marker Making Guidelines
There are some General Rules of Thumb that apply to the marker making process. o Maximize the fabric width. The wider the fabric is, the more efficient the marker will be, increasing the fabric utilization. o Maximize the overall quantity of parts in the marker. The greater the number of parts in the marker, the greater the efficiency as parts will lock better if there are more of them.
o Maximize the overall quantity and variety of sizes in the marker; widely different sizes of patterns fit together better. More sizes in the marker, offers more opportunities for the patterns to match and interlock better. o Maximize the overall quantity of pattern sets in the marker, like the overall quantity of parts offers more chances for the patterns to lock together better.
