PONYTA

GALARIAN VARIANT
CROCHET PATTERN
BY PALEFOX

© 2020 Beatrice Gröger - Instagram @palefoxcrafts

 NOTICE

Please read the provided notes for this pattern before starting your
project (including the assembling, page 8).
This will make following the pattern and assembling the final parts
much easier and thus improve the look of your plush. Most of your
questions might already be answered ;)

MATERIALS

• Crochet hook 3.5mm for aran yarn weight (depending on how tight
you crochet) and 6mm for bulky yarn
• Aran weight yarn (50g = approx 62m)
o 2x white skeins ~ 162.5 meters (177.7 yards), 65 grams
o 1x dark purple skein ~ 30.2 meters (33.0 yards), 13 grams
• Fluffy bulky yarn (50g = approx 85m)
o 1x lilac skein ~ 37.4 meters (40.9 yards), 22 grams
o 1x teal skein ~ 22.1 meters (24.2 yards), 13 grams
- If you choose a different yarn size you might need more/less yarn -
QUESTIONS? • Fiber fill/Stuffing
• Wire or pipe cleaner (optional)
BEATRICE.GROEGER@ • Felt wool & felting needle for needle-felted details eyes, ears, nose
PROTONMAIL.COM
- OR -
• Felt sheet cut-outs/foam rubber sheets for eyes, ears and nose
SOCIAL MEDIA

RAVELRY @PALEFOXCRAFTS
HOW TO READ THIS PATTERN
INSTAGRAM @PALEFOXCRAFTS
ETSY PALEFOXCRAFTS
Example:
Row 2 - [2sc, inc] x3 (12)

Read:
Crochet 2 single crochet stitches, followed by one increase.
Repeat this 3 times. You will end up with 12 stitches for row 2.

© COPYRIGHT
SKILL LEVEL
This pattern is FOR
Intermediate
PERSONAL USE ONLY! Do not

copy, reproduce, alter,

publish, translate or
ABBREVIATIONS | SKILLS
distribute the content of this
All pieces are worked in a continuous spiral unless stated
pattern in any way. otherwise!
Ch – chain stitch […] xN – repeat instructions
You may sell the handcrafted Slst – slip stitch inside the brackets N times in
Sc – single crochet stitch that row
items made from my patterns chN – make N chain stitches
Hdc – half double crochet
as long as they are made by Dc– double crochet stitch Nsc – crochet one sc in the
Inc – increase following N stitches
yourself and you credit me
Dec – decrease (invisible) Nmr - start a magic ring with
as the original designer. BLO – Back loop only N stitches

page 1
TIPS FOR WORKING WITH AMIGURUMI PIECES

1. Knowing your crochet habits is very useful when choosing your hook size. Often you will see the hint to use a hook one
size smaller than your yarn suggests to achieve tight stitches. I personally tend to crochet very tightly, so I counter this by using
the same hook size as indicated on the yarn.

Crocheting too tightly will make it nearly impossible to work into your stitches later on, crocheting too loosely however,
will make the stuffing show through (which will be a problem if your stuffing and yarn color differ greatly).
Choose a hook/yarn combination which suits your style (test it by crocheting a little test piece like a ball).
Your amigurumi might be a bit smaller/bigger than mine based on your own choices regarding the hooks.

2. Stuff your pieces tightly (unless mentioned otherwise) to avoid a wobbly plush which might fall over due to a lack of support.
The tail, mane and head from Ponyta have some weight to them, so neglecting to tightly stuff the legs or not using a wire to
support them might make your plush unstable.

3. Pin parts together before sewing to reposition and align if necessary.

TIPS FOR WORKING WITH FLUFFY YARN

Working with fluffy yarn can be very frustrating in the beginning. Here are some tips, which might make it easier for you:

1. Try not so ‘see’ the stitches (as it should prove almost impossible) but rather ‘feel’ them. Starting a piece with fluffy yarn is the
hardest part in my opinion, because you can never quite see what you’re doing. After a few rows this should be easier though
and you should be able to feel for each stitch.

2. Use a smaller yarn along with the fluffy one to help you to actually see the stitches. You will basically crochet with two strands
of yarn at the same time. This might be the easiest way for a beginner.

3. Brush out your fluffy pieces. You have finished your piece with a soft yarn but it just doesn’t seem all that fluffy? Some of the
long, soft fibers might be stuck between your stitches. Gently brushing them out with a pet brush or a wire comb will loosen the
fluff parts between the stitches and make everything look soft on the outside. Careful though! Don’t overdo the
brushing/combing, you might pull too hard and damage the stitches.

4. Don't be too exact, just wing it. Yes, you read that right. Fluffy yarn can be frustrating. Missing a stitch this round? Just add it in
the next one. The volume of the yarn will hide small mistakes, so don't be too hard on yourself. Small uneven parts will be
invisible once you brush the yarn into shape. Just have fun with it :)

fluffy/eyelash yarn

Regular yarn

same pattern - different size unbrushed unbrushed / brushed

leftover floof

fully brushed pet brush

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 2

HEAD - 3.5MM (CONTINUE) EARS (MAKE 2)

Crochet in white. Crochet in white.

Row 1 - 6sc mr (6) Row 1 - 4sc mr (4)

Row 2 - [Inc] x6 (12) Row 2 - [Sc, inc] x2 (6)
Row 3 - [Sc, inc] x6 (18) Row 3 - [Sc, inc] x3 (9)
Row 4 - [Inc, 2sc] x6 (24) Row 4 - [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
Row 5-6 - Sc all (24) Row 5 - [3sc, inc] x3 (15)
Row 7 - 5sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 4sc (27) Row 6 - Sc all (15)
Row 8 - Sc all (27) Row 7 - [4sc, inc] x3 (18)
Row 9 - 13sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 6sc (29) Row 8 - [5sc, inc] x3 (21)
Row 10 - 16sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc (32) Row 9 - Sc all (21)
Row 11 - 16sc, [inc, 3sc] x4 (36) Row 10 - [6sc, inc] x3 (24)
Row 12 - [8sc, inc] x4 (40) Row 11 - [7sc, inc] x3 (27)
Row 13 - [9sc, inc] x4 (44) Row 12 - [8sc, inc] x3 (30)
Row 14 - [10sc, inc] x4 (48) Row 13 - Sc all (30)
Row 15 - 15 sc, inc, 22 sc, inc, 9sc (50) Row 14 - 5sc, 3dec, 19sc (27)
Row 16-20 - Sc all (50) Row 15 - 12sc, dec, 11sc, dec (25)
Row 21 - [Dec, 8sc] x5 (45)
Row 22 - [7sc, dec] x5 (40) Slst and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert
Row 23 - [Dec, 6sc] x5 (35) Wire (optional). If you crochet the inner ear, add wire
Row 24 - [5sc, dec] x5 (30) after sewing on the inner ears.
Row 25 - [Dec, 4sc] x5 (25)

- Start stuffing as you go - INNER EAR (MAKE 2) - 3.5MM

Row 26 - [3sc, dec] x5 (20) Crochet in dark purple.

Row 27 - [Dec, 2sc] x5 (15)
Row 28 - [Sc, dec] x5 (10) For the inner ear we will put 3 stitches into the
Row 30 - [Dec] x5 (5) increases, marked as inc3.

Slst and fasten off, leaving a tail to close up the 5- Row 1 - 6sc mr (6)
st hole. Row 2 - [Sc, inc3] x 3 (12)
Row 3 - 2sc, inc3, [3sc, inc3] x 2, sc (18)

In row 4, our increases will be made up as follows:

hdc, dc, hdc into a single stitch. They are marked as
‘hdc inc3’, but inserting a dc into the middle will give
you a little bit of a pointy edge. This way, the inner
ear parts will fit better into the ear fold.

Row 4 - 3sc, hdc inc3, (5sc, hdc inc3) x 2, 2sc (24)

regular yarn
Sl st in next stitch and fasten off. Align a white ear
and purple piece. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn
tail for sewing to the ear, and fasten off.

EARS (MAKE 2) - 3.5MM

Tip: The inner ear color can be created in multiple

ways. You can crochet the ear and needle felt the
darker color or surface crochet on a darker yarn.

Another way would be to use a color change and

incorporate the darker yarn while crocheting the ear.
Use whichever way feels most comfortable for you.
For a seamless color change guide refer to the second
PDF that is ready to download after purchasing this
pattern :)

I will create an inner ear patch which will be sewn on

in the assembly part.

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 3

NECK - 3.5MM BODY - 3.5MM

Crochet in white. Crochet in white.

Row 1 - Ch 26, slst ends together (25) Row 1 - 6sc mr (6)

Row 2 - Sc all (25) Row 2 - 6inc (12)
Row 3-4 - 4hdc, 6sc, dec, 6sc, 6hdc, hdc inc (25) Row 3 - [Sc, inc] x6 (18)
Row 5 - 5hdc, 10sc, 10hdc (25) Row 4 - [2sc, inc] x6 (24)
Row 6 - 5hdc, 4sc, dec, 5sc, 9hdc (24) Row 5 - [3sc, inc] x6 (30)
Row 7 - 5hdc, 3sc, 2dec, 3sc, 6hdc, hdc inc, 2hdc (23) Row 6 - [4sc, inc] x6 (36)
Row 8 - 7hdc, hdc inc, 4hdc, 8sc, inc, 2sc (25) Row 7 - Sc all (36)
Row 9 - 2hdc, 8sc, 2sl st Row 8 - [5sc, inc] x6 (42)
Row 9-13 - Sc all (42)
Do not crochet into the remaining stitches and leave Row 14 - [12sc, dec] x3 (39)
them unworked. Row 15-16 - Sc all (39)
Slst and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the Row 17 - [11sc, dec] x3 (36)
body. Row 18 - Sc all (36)
The side where the increases from the last row meet Row 19 - [11sc, inc] x3 (39)
will be pinned to the chest, the decreases will serve Row 20 - Sc all (39)
as the back of the neck and point to Ponytas Row 21 - [5sc, inc] x6, 3sc (45)
backside. Row 22 - Sc all (45)
Row 23 - 13sc, 19hdc, 13sc (45)
Row 24 - [6sc, inc] x6, 3sc (51)
Row 25-26 - Sc all (51)
Row 27 - [6sc, dec] x6, 3sc (45)
Row 28 - 13sc, 19hdc, 13sc (45)
Row 29 - [13sc, dec] x3 (42)
Row 30 - Sc all (42)
Row 31 - [5sc, dec] x6 (36)
Row 32 - Sc all (36)

- Start stuffing as you go -

connect chain ends finished neck
Row 33 - [Dec, 4sc] x6 (30)
Row 34 - [3sc, dec] x6 (24)
Row 35 - [Dec, 2sc] x6 (18)
Row 36 - [Sc, dec] x6 (12)
HORN - 3.5MM Row 37 - [Dec] x6 (6)

Start with dark purple. Slst and fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to close
up the 6-st hole.
Row 1 - 4sc mr (4)
Row 2 - [Sc, inc] x2 (6)
Row 3 - [Sc, inc] x3 (9)
Row 4 - [2sc, inc] x3 (12)

Switch to white.

Row 5-6 - Sc all (12)

Continue with dark purple.

Row 7 - Sc all (12)

Row 8 - [3sc, inc] x3 (15)
Row 9 - Sc all (15)
Row 10 - [4sc, inc] x3 (18)

Sl st and finish off. Leave a tail for sewing.

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 4

FRONT LEG, LEFT - 3.5MM FRONT LEG, RIGHT - 3.5MM

Tip for color the color change: If you want a clean edge Start with dark purple.
without the zig-zag line, then you can look at my
seamless color change guide (extra pdf which you can Repeat rows 1-23 of the left front leg.
download after purchasing my pattern). If you don’t mind
Row 24 - Sc, dec, 6sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 3sc, dec (20)
the uneven line and simply want to hide the ‘step’ that is Row 25 - 2dec, 5sc, 2inc, 2sc, 2inc, 5sc (22)
visible when changing colors, simply start the color Row 26-27 - Sc all (22)
change with a slip stitch and finish the first round with a
slip stitch as well. After row 27 add 3 more sc (or however many you
need to start from the middle/ 6 o'clock position) and
Start with dark purple. start the next round from there. Turn your work
before starting row 28.
Row 1 - 6sc mr (6) Row 28 - 6hdc, hdc inc, hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, sc (15) turn
Row 2 - [Inc] x6 (12) Row 29 - Sc, 12hdc, sc (14) turn
Row 3 - [Sc, inc] x6 (18) Row 30 - Sc, 11hdc, sc (13) turn
Row 4 - BLO: [Sc, inc] x9 (27) Row 31 - Sc, 10hdc, sc (12)
Row 5 - Sc all (27)
Row 6 - 10sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 10sc (25) Sc along the edge of the flat rows of the leg to leave a
clean edge.
Row 7 - 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc (22) Leave a long tail for sewing to the body later.
Row 8 - Dec, 8sc, dec, 10sc (20) Insert Wire (optional). If you didn't stuff the leg
Row 9 - 8sc, 2dec, 8sc (18) before, do it now after inserting the wire.

Continue with white.

Row 10-21 - Sc all (18)

Row 22 - Sc, inc, 16sc (19)
Row 23 - Sc all (19)
Row 24 - Dec, 6sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4sc, dec (20)
Row 25 - 2dec, 5sc, 2inc, 2sc, 2inc, 5sc (22)
Row 26-27 - Sc all (22)

If you don't use a wire, start stuffing now.

Add 1sc (or however many you need) to start row 28
in the middle of the leg (imagine the 6 o'clock position
on a watch).
We will switch to flat rows at this point. Flat meaning,
that we only crochet half of the row from before
(picture a flat pyramid). To avoid the visible line which
can be seen in flat worked pieces that are crocheted
“back and forth”, you can cut the yarn at the end of
each row and join it at the beginning of each new row.
Don’t forget to tie or weave in the ends!
BACK LEG, LEFT - 3.5MM
Row 28 - 5hdc, hdc inc, hdc, hdc inc, 5hdc, sc (16) turn
Row 29 - Sc, 12hdc, sc (14) turn Start with dark purple.
Row 30 - Sc, 11hdc, sc (13) turn
Row 31 - Sc, 10hdc, sc (12) Row 1 - 6sc mr (6)
Row 2 - [Inc] x6 (12)
Row 3 - [Sc, inc]x 6 (18)
Sc along the edge of the flat rows of the leg to leave a Row 4 - BLO: [Sc, inc] x9 (27)
clean edge. Leave a long tail for sewing to the body Row 5 - Sc all (27)
later. Row 6 - 10sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 10sc (25)
Insert Wire (optional). Row 7 - 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc (22)
If you didn't stuff the leg before, do it now after Row 8 - Dec, 8sc, dec, 10sc (20)
inserting the wire. Row 9 - 8sc, 2dec, 8sc (18)

Continue with white.

Row 10 - Sc all (18)

Row 11 - Dec, 6sc, inc, 9sc (18)
Row 12-17 - Sc all (18)
Row 18 - Dec, 5sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4sc, dec (19)
Row 19 - Sc all (19)
Row 20 - Dec, 5sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 5sc, dec (20)
Row 21 - Dec, 16sc, dec (18)
Row 22 - Sc all (18)
Row 23 - Dec, 7sc, inc, 8sc (18)
Row 24 - Inc, 17sc (19)
Row 25 - 5sc, inc, 13sc (20)
Row 26 - Sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 9sc (22)

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 5

 Fluffy Parts
(CONTINUE) BACK LEG, LEFT
We will now switch to the fluffy yarn.
Row 27 - Sc all (22) The stitches per row and row counts are estimates and can
Row 28 - 8sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 8sc (24) vary depending on your yarn of choice and hook size!
Don’t be afraid though, all parts are basically long tubes. Just
If you don't use a wire, start stuffing now. Otherwise try these instructions and see if you have to add or remove
wait until the leg is done and the wire is added first. We some stitches/rows to find your perfect fit.
will switch to flat rows at this point. Start the flat rows
from the middle of the leg (6 o'clock position). Beginners: Please read page 2 for tips on how to work with this
kind of yarn. Using two strands (fluffy + thinner strand) is the
Row 29 - 5hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, sc (16) turn easiest way to do that. This part can be frustrating in the
Row 30 - Sc, 12hdc, sc (14) turn beginning - don't give up! It's worth it in the end, I promise :)
Row 31 - Sc, 10hdc, sc (12) turn
Row 32 - Sc, 8hdc, sc (10)

Tie all ends. Sc along the edge of the flat rows of the
LEG FLUFF (MAKE 4) - 6MM
leg to leave a clean edge.
Insert Wire (optional).
Crochet in lilac.

Depending on your fluffy yarn you may need to chain

more than just 10. Simply start by chaining 10 and
wrap it loosely around the hoof. At least 2 chains
should overlap with the beginning since single
crocheting the row will shorten it slightly.

Row 1 - Ch 10 (10)
Row 2 - Sc all, ch 1 and turn (9)
Row 3 - Sc all (9)

Slst and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the

body. By not slip-stitching the ends from the
beginning we now have the option to sew the ends as
tight together as necessary to not let them slip off
the legs.

BACK LEG, RIGHT - 3.5MM

Start with dark purple.

Repeat rows 1-24 of the left back leg.

Row 25 - 14sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Row 26 - 13sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 3sc (22)
Row 27 - Sc all (22)
Row 28 - 9sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 7sc (24)

If you don't use a wire, start stuffing now. Otherwise

wait until the leg is done and the wire is added first.
We will switch to flat rows at this point. Add 3
additional sc (or however many you need to start from
the middle) before turning your work and start row 29
from there.

Row 29 - 5hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, hdc inc, 3hdc, sc (16) turn
Row 30 - Sc, 12hdc, sc (14) turn
Row 31 - Sc, 10hdc, sc (12) turn
Row 32 - Sc, 8hdc, sc (10)

Once you've finished the legs you can start pinning

them to the body to mark their position for sewing.
More in the assembling part at page 8.

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 6

TAIL - 6MM MANE - 6MM

Start with teal. Start with teal.

Row 1 - 6sc mr (6) Row 1 - 6sc mr (6)

Row 2 - [Sc, inc] x3 (9) Row 2 - [Sc, inc] x3 (9)
Row 3 - [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
Row 4 - [3sc, inc] x3 (15) Row 3 - [2sc, inc] x3 (12)
Row 5 - Sc all (15) Row 4 - [3sc, inc] x3 (15)
Row 6 - [4sc, inc] x3 (18) Row 5 - Sc all (15)
Row 7 - [5sc, inc] x3 (21) Row 6 - [4sc, inc] x3 (18)
Row 8 - [6sc, inc] x3 (24)
Row 9-11 - Sc all (24) We will start slowly adding lilac over the next rows.
Row 12 - [7sc, inc] x3 (27)
Row 13 - Sc all (27) T= Teal, L = Lilac

Continue in lilac. Row 7 - [5sc, inc] x3 (21)

> [5sc, inc] T, 3sc L, [2sc, inc, 5sc, inc] T
Row 14-15 - Sc all (27) Row 8 - [6sc, inc] x3 (24)
Row 16 - [7sc, dec] x3 (24) > [6sc, inc] T, 5sc L, [Sc, inc, 6sc, inc] T
Row 17 - Sc all (24)
Row 18 - [6sc, dec] x3 (21) Row 9 - Sc all (24)
Row 19 - [5sc, dec] x3 (18) > 8sc T, 8sc L, 8sc T
Row 10 - Sc all (24)
- Start stuffing as you go - > 7sc T, 10sc L, 7sc T
Row 11 - Sc all (24)
Row 20 - [4sc, dec] x3 (15) > 6sc T, 13sc L, 5sc T
Row 21 - [3sc, dec] x3 (12)
Row 22 - Sc all (12) Row 12 - [7sc, inc] x3 (27)
Row 23 - [2sc, dec] x3 (9) > 5sc T, [2sc, inc, 7sc, inc, 3sc] L, [4sc, inc] T
Row 24 - [Sc, dec] x3 (6) Row 13 - Sc all (27)
> 4sc T, 19sc L, 4sc T
Slst and fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew Row 14 - Sc all (27)
the tail to the body. > 2sc T, 23sc L, 2sc T
Optional for posing: Bend the tip of a wire into a loop Row 15 - Sc all (27)
shape and secure the end by wrapping it with tape, > Sc T, 25sc L, sc T
cut off the wire to be roughly 3-4cm longer than the
tail and insert it into the tail. Continue in lilac.
To secure the wire in the tail, insert the loop into the Row 16 - [7sc, dec] x3 (24)
tail tip. Using an embroidery needle, guide a teal
colored yarn string through the loop from the outside Row 17 - Sc all (24)
(feel for the wire loop with the needle) and make sure Row 18 - [6sc, dec] x3 (21)
it's in place by pulling on the wire. If the yarn string Row 19 - [5sc, dec] x3 (18)
follows, it is in the correct place. Knot the yarn string
and hide the rest of the yarn inside the tail. - Start stuffing as you go -

Row 20 - [4sc, dec] x3 (15)

Row 21-26 - Sc all (15)
Row 27 - [3sc, dec] x3 (12)
Row 28 - [2sc, dec] x3 (9)
Row 29 - Sc all (9)
Row 30 - [Sc, dec] x3 (6)

Slst and fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew

the mane to the head. Add a wire if you want the
mane to hold a certain position.

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 7

BANGS (MAKE 2) - 6MM ASSEMBLING ALL PARTS

You can either crochet the bangs or use individual strands of I prefer finishing all parts first and constantly pinning
fluffy yarn, which you tie/knot to the front of the head and them together while working on them for reference
brush out until it is soft and no longer 'stringy'. This is the until I am satisfied with all of them.
method I used for my Ponyta in the final pictures. If you prefer If you think one part looks too big/small it’s easier to
to crochet the bangs, crochet them as follows: fix this while everything is separate and sometimes
it’s hard to judge how everything will look together
Crochet in lilac. until the very end. Keeping this in mind might save
you some headaches along the way :)
Row 1 - 8sc Mr (8)
Row 2 - Sc all (8) 1. Start with assembling body, legs and neck.
Row 3 - [2sc, dec] x2 (6) Try pinning the legs and neck to the body. If you don't
Row 4-5 - Sc all (6)
have enough pins, 'lay' the body roughly onto the legs,
Row 6 - Sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc (6)
use the leg wire - if you used any - to keep the body in
Row 6 - Dec, 2sc, dec (4)
place and pin the neck. Place all parts until you are
Slst and fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew the tail to contend with their position. Stuff the neck once it is
the head. placed onto the body, so that it can keep its shape.

Since it’s hard to work with all legs pinned on just mark
MANE SPIKES - 6MM where the other legs would go and sew them on.
Now your majestic pony can stand on its own already!
Big Spike

Row 1 - 8sc Mr (8)

Row 2 - Sc all (8)
Row 3 - [2sc, dec] x2 (6)
Row 4 - [Sc, dec] x2 (4)

Small Spikes (make 2)

Row 1 - 6sc Mr (6)

Row 2 - Sc all (6)
Row 3 - [Sc, dec] x2 (4)
2. But those legs still lack some fluff - let's change that :)
Slst and fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew Wrap the leg fluff around the hooves and sew the open
to the body. end together (like a wrist band). Secure the fluff with a
few stitches, so it doesn't slip off. Gently brush the fluff
with a wired pet brush for extra soft fluff.

unbrushed brushed

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 8

(CONTINUE) ASSEMBLING ALL PARTS (CONTINUE) ASSEMBLING ALL PARTS

3. Time for the head. If you created the inner ear color 5. Next is the tail.
with crocheted patches, sew those on first. After that If you used a wire, poke the wire roughly between row
4 and 5 from the back end and sew the tail the body.
start pinning the ears to the head. Place both ears in a
way, that allows the horn and bangs to fit between
them.

Place the horn in the middle between the ears.

6. Attach the mane about 2 rows behind the horn. The

free space between mane and horn will be covered up
by the bangs.

4. Attach the head to the body.

7. If you crocheted the bangs, attach them in a way that

covers the free space between horn and mane. If you
wanted to use the individual yarn strings, cut the
pieces to be 4-5 cm long when they're attached and
tie/knot them to the head. only cover the space from
mane up to halfway through the base of the horn.
Attach as many as you like until it has the desired
thickness. Gently brush the bangs.

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 9

(CONTINUE) ASSEMBLING ALL PARTS

7.

8. Almost done! Now we sew on the mane spikes to the

bottom part of the mane. Place them in a triangle shape
around the bottom. Imagine the mane having a hair tie
at the end and the three spikes are the loose ends of
the mane :)

9. It’s time for the last and most important step of your
new friend – the eyes!
Mark the spots where you want the eyes to be and
attach them with your material of choice.
I chose to needle felt them on, but you can easily use
some felting mats or rubber foam mats and cut out the
shapes and details for the eyes.

For the needle felting I drew out the eyes on a piece of

paper to find the right size. I pinned them on the head
used them as a guideline for the felting process.
Glue/felt them on and you’re done!

Congratulation! Your magical pony is done and ready

to explore the world.

If you have any questions I will be glad to help you

out. Don’t be shy and contact me :)

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 10

©2020 PALEFOX CRAFTS . Beatrice Gröger - All rights reserved. page 11