SKIN

A C A D E M Y

Facials
TREATMENTS MASSAGE AROMATHERAPY
 FACIALS 101
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF FACIAL CARE

THINKING ABOUT BECOMING A FACIAL SPECIALIST?

Whether a person is in business, entertainment, or sales, having silky-smooth

bright skin can be vital in making a good impression. A flawless complexion is an
accessory you always carry with you and clients are willing to pay a premium for
it!

This manual offers you tailored lessons to develop by increasing your knowledge
on skin care & facials, whilst also expanding your skill sets with knowledge and
techniques to provide the best result for your clients.

Within this training manual you will...

Understand the related Anatomy & Physiology

Learn about skincare & facials consultations
Step by step instructions
Understand the training theory plus tips and advanced knowledge!
 Our goal at the end of this training, is to provide you with the skill sets and
training needed to provide the highest level of services for your clientele.

We are so excited to teach you and bring you into the world of facials. These
procedures have the ability to boost confidence. Your clients will love their
results and you will love the extra income this treatment provides.

Want to be your own boss?

JOIN THE LARGEST AND GROWING PROFESSION AS A SKIN CARE
ESTHETICIAN!
 WHY STUDY FACIALS? FACIALS EQUIPMENT
FACE STEAMERS
INTRODUCTIONS TO FACIALS FACE BRUSHING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
COLD SPRAY / SUCTION MACHINES
THE HISTORY OF FACIALS
ELECTROTHERAPY & LIGHT THERAPY
SANITATION AND STERILIZATION GALVANIC
HIGH FREQUENCY
ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY MICROCURRENT
THE SKIN + WORKSHEETS HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT
CIRCULATORY SYSTEM LIGHT THERAPY
THE LYMPHATIC SYSTEM MICRODERMABRASION
SKULL ANATOMY + WORKSHEETS
THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM FACIAL TREATMENTS
NERVOUS SYSTEM ANATOMY
AROMATHERAPY FACIAL
THE FITZPATRICK SCALE + POSTER ESSENTIAL OIL DILUTION
SKIN TYPES MASSAGE
SKIN COLOR TYPES
SKIN DISORDERS & DISEASES BASIC FACIAL PROCEDURE
SKIN ANALYSIS
SKIN TYPES REFERENCE SHEET FACIAL FOR DRY SKIN

CONTRAINDICATIONS FACIAL FOR OILY SKIN WITH OPEN

COMEDONES (BLACKHEADS)
CLIENT CONSULTATIONS
FACIAL FOR ACNE PRONE & PROBLEM
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS SKIN

FACIAL MASSAGE TECHNIQUES HOLISTIC FACIAL ROUTINE

EFFLEURAGE
PETRISSAGE FACIAL MASSAGE
KNEADING
PICKING UP - PINCH AND ROLL AFTERCARE
WRINGING
FRICTION CLIENT DOCUMENTS
VIBRATION INTAKE
TAPOTEMENT SKIN CONSULTATION
LYMPH DRAINAGE MEDICAL
MOTOR NERVE POINTS CONSENT
FACIAL MANIPULATIONS PRE & POST TREATMENT
WHY STUDY FACIALS?

Good skin care can make a big difference in the way skin looks and in the
way a client feels about his or her appearance. Besides being very relaxing,
facial treatments can offer many improvements to the appearance of the
skin.

Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner and healthier, dry skin look
and feel more moist and supple, and aging skin look smoother, firmer, and
less wrinkled. A combination of good salon facial treatments and effective,
individualized home care will show visible results.

WHY STUDY FACIALS?

Cosmetologists should study and have a thorough understanding of facials

because:

Providing skin care services to clients is extremely rewarding, helps busy

clients to relax, improves their appearance, and helps clients feel better
about themselves.
 Knowing the basics of skin analysis and basic information about skin
care products will enable you to offer your clients advice when they ask
you for it.
Although you will not treat a skin disease, you must be able to recognize
adverse skin conditions and refer clients to seek medical advice from a
physician.
Learning the basic techniques of facials and facial massage will give
you a good overview of, and an ability to perform, these foundational
services.
You may enjoy this category of services and may consider specializing
in skin care services. This study will create a perfect basis for making
that decision.
INTRODUCTIONS TO
FACIALS
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACIALS AVAILABLE?

Spa facial treatments are often seen as a luxury reserved for special
occasions; however, many people fail to realize that facials can be an
impactful part of a regular skin care routine as well. But it can be easy to
get lost in the jargon of a spa treatment menu and feel a little dazed when
it comes to figuring out what exactly it is that you need or want. The truth is,
there are so many types of facials because they all address varying skin
concerns using an array of methods to do so. Thankfully, our skilled
estheticians at are well versed in all types of facials and we love sharing ur
knowledge.

CLASSIC

A classic or standard facial usually involves cleansing, exfoliating, extractions,

a mask, and a moisturizer. Given its calming nature, this facial can be a great
choice for anyone with normal to dry skin.
Extractions, the process of cleaning out clogged pores, are safe for most
skin types, but you will need to ensure the esthetician first uses steam to
soften the pores and covers her fingers with gauze. However, anyone with
rosacea or eczema should skip the steaming, which can exacerbate those
conditions, and use a warm cloth instead.

Extractions can pinch and cause slight discomfort, but if the process is too
intense, you can simply stop. An oxygen facial is a great example of a
classic plumping and hydrating facial.

LYMPHATIC MASSAGE

Sometimes combined with other treatments, a lymphatic massage facial

incorporates gentle kneading of targeted areas of your face. This helps to
relieve tension and reduce water retention, therefore minimizing puffiness,
by stimulating the lymphatic glands found in your face. Generally speaking,
your lymphatic system is an important part of your immune system which aids
in the removal of extra fluid and waste from your body. In addition, this type
of facial can boost circulation leaving you with a bright, glowing
complexion.
ELECTRIC CURRENT

Just as it sounds, an electric current facial uses a micro-current device and

wet sponges to deliver low levels of electricity to the face and neck. The
current naturally helps to contour your face by stimulating and tightening the
underlying muscles, making it a less-invasive substitute for other injectables.
The result is an anti-aging effect which helps smooth wrinkles and leaves
you with a more lifted appearance. These tightening facials reduce the
appearance of damage.

GALVANIC FACIAL

Galvanic Facial includes the use of galvanic currents to stimulate the face.
It’s considered a non-surgical facelift. The procedure is all about stimulating
the muscles. This treatment tones the facial muscles and repositions them to
give you a more lifted face. It reshapes the face, giving you a more defined
look.

The galvanic facial is the ultimate exercise for your face. Out of all the
different types of facials, this is one of the best anti-aging facials for
wrinkles and aging skin to contour the face. It’s suitable for all skin types to
eliminate the signs of aging.

The facial also includes infusing several skincare products to the face. The
currency makes it easier for your skin to absorb these products more
efficiently.

The Galvanic facial is perfect for minimizing wrinkles, toning up the face,
promoting collagen growth, and firming the skin. The results are visible
almost instantly. But you need several treatments to maintain the results.

HIGH-FREQUENCY FACIAL

High-frequency, sometimes referred to as radiofrequency, is a type of facial

treatment where electrical currents produce a certain amount of heat to
stimulate deeper layers of the skin. This anti-inflammatory heat kills bacteria.
 So, it’s perfect for acne-prone skin to treat existing acne as well as prevent
the formation of new ones. The benefits also include getting rid of acne
scars.

MICRODERMABRASION

Microdermabrasion is a minimally invasive type of facial treatment. Basically,

there’s a device with a crystal or diamond tip. This device brushes off the
upper layer of your skin while vacuuming anything that comes off. It works
like sandpaper over the face. This treatment removes dead skin cells
accumulated over the face. It promotes cell turnover, and collagen and
elastin growth. The resurfaced skin looks healthier with less visible lines,
pores, and scars. It’s perfect for anyone at any age who wants to get rid of
fine lines, scars, and dullness.

Microdermabrasion can give a clean, softer, plump, and glowing skin. You
need to avoid sun exposure after the treatment. You can expect a certain
amount of redness after the treatment. So, I wouldn’t book an appointment
the day before my wedding.

ACUPUNCTURE FACIAL

Acupuncture facial is a treatment where they place tiny needles on several

parts of the face. These controlled micro-injuries stimulate collagen growth.
The benefits of acupuncture facial are firming up loose skin, minimizing
wrinkles, and getting rid of scars through cell regeneration.

HYDRATING FACIAL

A hydrating facial is like watering a plant. It’s specifically designed to

hydrate dry and dehydrated skin.

It starts with a classic facial, but the products are specifically chosen. These
are potent humectants to deeply hydrate and moisturize your skin. A
hydrating facial gives you plump, bouncy, and supple skin instantly.
HYDRAFACIAL

If you’re suffering from blackheads, whiteheads, and dullness without a

major acne problem, HydraFacial may be just for you. The HydraFacial
machine deeply cleanses the outer layer of your skin in a vacuum-like
manner. It sucks any dirt and grime on the face. It’s the ultimate
decongesting facial. After cleansing, the same device infuses several serums
into the skin, giving you clean, hydrated, bright, and radiant skin. HydraFacial
is suitable for dry, normal, combination, and oily skin. This fun facial is
sometimes the first step for other facials.

CHEMICAL PEELS

Chemical peels are invasive facial treatments where they use chemical
acids to promote skin turnover. There are 3 different types of chemical
peels. Also, there are several types of acids in different concentrations to
address various skin issues. Chemical peels are one of the most effective
skin resurfacing treatments. The benefits include decongesting the skin,
getting rid of deep-set wrinkles, scars, age spots, and photodamage. It’s the
ultimate anti-aging skin rejuvenation where your skin slowly peels off and
resurfaces a much healthier layer. Chemical peels boost collagen growth
through skin turnover.

The pain and the cost depend on the type of peel you get which is for your
dermatologist to decide. Some types of chemical peels require a physician
in a medical facility. But a light peel, also known as lunchtime peel, can be
done in facial spas. The lightest chemical peel may take 2 days to heal
whereas a deep peel may take up to 6 months. Learn more about different
types of chemical peels.

OXYGEN FACIAL

An oxygen facial includes the use of a device that sprays out oxygen in a
highly-pressured form.
After exfoliation and cleansing, your aesthetician applies several vitamin-
rich serums to your skin. That’s where the device comes in. It feeds and
nourishes the skin by infusing these antioxidants into it. Oxygen facial is
suitable for all skin types. It’s perfect for hydrating and brightening the skin.
People with dull and tired-looking skin can find this facial highly beneficial.

MICRONEEDLING

A micro-needling facial is inflicting controlled wounds into the skin through

tiny needles. This is an invasive treatment that requires numbing cream to
avoid pain. Microneedling promotes cell turnover and collagen growth by
creating tiny muscle tears. These microscopic injuries cause your skin to
switch to an urgent healing mode. And this results in healthier skin. It’s a very
popular anti-aging facial treatment to tighten the skin and get rid of lines.
And there are some at-home kits as well, but they can have potential risks,
especially the cheap ones by unreliable brands.

DERMAPLANING FACIAL

Dermaplaning is a type of advanced exfoliation where you use a surgical

scalpel blade to gently scrape off the outermost layer of the skin. This way,
it removes dead skin cells over the face as well as peach fuzz. After
dermaplaning, your skin is infused with several antioxidants. You get clean,
smooth, and fresh skin.

Dermaplaning is suitable for all skin types. But people with active acne
should stay away until the breakouts dry out. Because the resurfacing
treatment willirritate the acne and cause further inflammation. Benefits of
dermaplaning include smoother and glowing skin and better absorption of
your skincare products.

ENZYME FACIAL

The highlight of this facial is the facial masks they use in the treatment. The
facial starts with a basic steaming, cleansing, and exfoliation. And then, a
type of mask stays on the face for about 30 minutes. The name of the facial
comes from the fruit enzymes used in the mask.
An enzyme facial is ideal for hyper-pigmentation, fine lines, mild scarring,
and sun damage. There’s no visible skin peeling in an enzyme facial.
However, you do get healthier, gently exfoliated, and brighter skin.

PRP FACIAL

Also known as the vampire facial, PRP refers to platelet-rich plasma facial.
In this facial, your doctor draws your blood and puts it through a special
machine to create what is called platelet-rich plasma.

This highly concentrated form of proteins is infused into your skin through
micro-needling. The growth factor in the plasma helps with collagen growth.
The vampire facial is perfect for tightening the skin and reducing the signs
of aging.

AROMATHERAPY FACIAL

This facial is as relaxing as it gets. Aromatherapy facial starts with steaming

and cleansing. And then a combination of essential oils are used to massage
the face and the neck area. It’s all about relieving tension through
therapeutic oils. All skin types can benefit from aromatherapy facial to
nourish the skin with antioxidants. After the massage, vitamin-rich products
are applied to the skin. You can leave the spa relaxed, replenished,
energized, and freshened.

ANTI-AGING

Very similar to a standard facial, an anti-aging facial utilizes active

ingredients and procedures to attack the signs of aging which are present
on mature skin – think ages 30 and up. Typically, these facials consist of
cleansing, exfoliation or skin resurfacing (often as microdermabrasion
treatments), masks, deep-pore cleansing with extractions, and hydration
elements. They may also incorporate antioxidant-heavy serums and
ingredients like collagen to help revitalize the skin. But be sure to give your
skin time to heal after this one as it can lead to flaking and peeling
depending on the strength of the various elements.
BRIGHTENING

If your client has ashy, sun damaged, or dull skin a brightening facial can
help. Specifically targeting hyper pigmentation, and evens out complexion
using powerful antioxidants such as Vitamin C. The process typically involves
a combination of masks, enzyme peels, and acid treatments to remove the
build-up of dead skin cells. The result is radiant and glowing skin.

LED

Also known as Color Light Therapy, a LED (light-emitting diode) facial

harnesses specific wavelengths of light to address breakouts and
inflammation making it the perfect facial for acne. In addition, the pain-free
technique has been shown to help stimulate cell growth, improve overall
complexion, reduce redness, minimize the appearance of sunspots or fine
lines, and smooth wrinkles. They are noninvasive, have no harmful side
effects, and no downtime.

LASER

Finally, we have laser facials which sound a lot more sci-fi than they really
are. By using a laser to remove the top layer of skin, this type of facial is
able to gently resurface the face and correct minor flaws – hence why it is
sometimes referred to as laser resurfacing. A laser facial can be used to
minimize the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, uneven skin tone, sun
damage, and scars.
 THE HISTORY OF
FACIALS
When we talk about Facials, we are actually talking about a group of several
treatments that focus on the face. The general treatments used are steam,
exfoliation, extraction, creams, lotions, facial masks, peels, and massage.
For a lot of us the facial is a crucial part of our beauty regime, weather we
get it done in the spa, salon or do it at home. Recently I was talking to a
friend about our routines, and we got to wondering if Facials were
something from our generation, or if our mums used to go through the same
sorts of treatments as us. We decided to go online to see, and we were
quite surprised by our findings. It seems that women have been trying for
hundreds of years to maintain their looks.

During the 1500 – 1600’s, amongst the European upper classes, having pale
skin untouched by the sun was seen as a sign of beauty, wealth and power.
At the time there was little science behind skin care so attempts to further
the skin – whitening process led to the use of a poisonous mixture of white
lead and vinegar called Ceruse, most famously used by Queen Elizabeth.
As the 1800’s drew to a close there was a very strong desire for youthful skin
that led to a wide range of beauty products being released, like Madame
Rowley ‘s toilet mask. One of the ads for the overnight mask read
“recommended to ladies for Beautifying, Bleaching and Preserving the
Complexion”. The product didn’t stay in favor for long after people found it
suffocated the face and encouraged perspiration.

From 1900 till around 1940 there was a large increase in the number and
variety of beauty products and treatments that were trialed, like Raw Meat
Facials, radium laced beauty products, freezing freckles off with nitrogen
and many other, mostly ill conceived, ideas. Around the 1940’s two ladies
started to lead the beauty industry, Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubenstein.
Salons were opening nationwide, and a new era of anti-aging treatments
was ushered in.

The glamour bonnet and other helmet like structures came into fashion. Rosy
cheeks were also sought after using electronic heated face masks, skin
tightening wraps and vacuums Targeting sagging skin and acne. By the
1950’s watching movies in the cinema, and having televisions in their home,
exposed women to Hollywood glamour and the attention on this beauty
made the focus on physical appearance more important. It’s around this
period that a lot of treatments still used today were developed and
popularized, like steam facials, seaweed wraps and facial mud masks.

Today’s facials have come a long way. Using the latest scientific research
and technology they offer a wide range of effective treatments with minimal
risk. A lot safer and more reliable then rubbing poison on your face.
 SANITATION AND
STERILIZATION
Refers to any procedure undertaken in the salon to remove contamination
and reduce the risk of infection. Specific methods are required to ensure
effective sanitization of tools, equipment and implements have taken place.
As a technician, you have a duty of care, and it is absolutely imperative that
you provide a clean and sanitized environment and equipment for your
client.

Sterilization is the total destruction of all micro-organisms. It is very difficult

to maintain sterile conditions as once the items have been exposed to the
air they are no longer classed as sterile. Articles that have been cleaned,
sterilized and stored hygienically are safe to use on clients.

METHODS OF CLEANING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Disinfectant inhibits the growth of disease-causing organisms (except

spores) using chemical agents. Disinfectants only reduce the number of
organisms however this is usually sufficient for maintaining hygienic
conditions. Most are used for wiping down work surfaces and equipment.
Disinfectants should only be used under manufacturer's instructions and
following the correct guidelines. Do not use directly
on the skin

Antiseptic is a diluted disinfectant designed for safe use on the skin. It

prevents the multiplication of microorganisms by making the conditions
unfavorable for growth

UV Light Radiation is a method of sterilization that can be used but has

limitations. The object being sterilized must be turned regularly as only the
surface being exposed to the light rays will be effectively treated. If there is
debris or product residue on the instruments this will act as a barrier to the
light penetration so effective sterilization will be slowed down. The UV light
must be contained within a closed cabinet as the light is dangerous
especially to the eyes.
Records of usage should be kept as the ultraviolet light source will decrease
in its effectiveness over time and new bulbs will need to be installed (follow
manufacturer's guidelines

Glass Bead Sterilizer can be used for sterilizing small metal tools such as
scissors and tweezers. The heat from the beads transfers to the objects
effectively killing off microorganisms. All tools must be cleansed before
placing in the unit to remove dirt and debris. It is important to follow the
correct timing guidelines from the manufacturer's instructions to ensure
efficient sterilization has taken place

Autoclave is the most effective method for killing bacteria and their spores,
however it has its limitations as the temperature needed for this level of
effectiveness is 121 -134 °C. It works similar to a pressure cooker using high
pressure steam to cleanse the objects. Due to the higher levels of heat, it is
only suitable for certain objects, and these should be cleansed before being
placed in the autoclave. Always ensure you have been trained in its use and
follow manufacturer's instructions when using equipment of this nature.

WASTE DISPOSAL

Disposal of waste should be in a sealed bin lined with a durable polythene

bin liner. The bin should be cleaned regularly with disinfectant (this should
only be done in a well-ventilated area) following manufacturers’ guidelines
to ensure no risk from potential hazards.

Hazardous waste must be disposed of following the correct legislative

procedures, and the member of staff responsible for the disposal must be
fully trained. Clinical contaminated waste usually by blood and tissue fluid
should be disposed of as recommended by the environment agency.

Any sharp implements that have been used to penetrate or pierce the skin
should be placed in a sharps box. The local environmental health
department will be able to advise you on disposal arrangements. All
disposable waste matter following applications is contaminated as it will
contain blood and tissue fluid. There is a risk of transfer of blood borne
infections such as Hepatitis B and C, and HIV.
All staff should be trained in the risks of handling this waste. The waste
should be placed in an orange sack which indicates its level of risk and
should be kept separate from all other general waste.

WORKPLACE HYGIENE CHECKLIST

To maintain acceptable levels of hygiene:

Maintain high standards of personal hygiene

Wash hands before and after every treatment using a detergent
containing chlorhexidine which is recognized medically as an effective
ingredient for skin sanitation
Follow all health and safety policies identified during your workplace
induction and regular workplace reviews
Check all equipment is in good repair and fit for purpose, identify any
concerns by labelling and isolating equipment and report to manager for
follow up action
Regularly clean all working surfaces with an appropriate cleaning
solution following manufacturers’ guidelines
Cover any cuts on yourself or client with a suitable waterproof dressing
Ensure all tools have been effectively sterilized or disinfected according
to their manufacturer's instructions, for example using Trigene solution
and an autoclave to disinfect calipers, tweezers, metal sharpeners
Prevent the risk of cross infection by checking for contraindications
during the consultation
Use where possible disposable products and dispose of correctly
following use
All gowns and towels should be washed at a minimum of 60 °C and
clean towels and gowns provided for each client. The dirty laundry
should then be placed in a covered laundry bin
Waste should be placed in correct bags or sharps containers depending
on their nature and disposed of in accordance with local government
legislation.
REPORTING ACCIDENTS

The reporting of all accidents and near misses should be recorded in the
Accident Book, which should be kept with a first aid kit on the work
premises.

The following information should be recorded:

Full name and address of the person(s) involved in the accident.

Circumstances of the accident.
Date and time of the accident.
All details of what may have contributed to the accident

SALON | TREATMENT AREA HYGIENE

Clean the salon thoroughly, daily.

Clean the treatment area before and after every client.
Use clean fresh smelling towels for each client, (dirty linen must be
◦
laundered at a minimum of 60 C).
Creams, lotion and sprays should be dispensed from purpose-specific
pump or spray bottles where possible, otherwise use a clean disposable
spatula to remove products from bottles/jars.
Replace all lids after removing products from the bottles/jars.
Sterilize all tools including stones, bins and machines.
Empty bins and dispose of contents accordingly.
Check all the plugs and wires on electrical equipment and make sure
they conform to legal standards and are professionally checked
annually.
Make sure all fire exits are clear and accessible.
Make sure your clients personal belongings are safe.
Protect clients clothing by using towels. The towels may also be used to
preserve the client’s modesty during the treatment.
Read all labels and follow all manufacturers’ instructions.
Know the hazardous warning signs.
Store products safely and in accordance with safety data sheets.
Report any faulty equipment/goods to your supervisor or supplier.
Have a first aid kit
PERSONAL HYGIENE

Clean, ironed, freshly laundered uniform

Clean, flat, sensible shoes
Clean, short, manicured nails
Fresh breath
Use of antiperspirant
Neat make-up.

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (PPE)

A new pair of disposable gloves should be put on immediately before each

client if required, and a disposable apron is advisable to protect clothing.
Both should be disposed of directly after the treatment. Hands must be
washed before you put on the gloves and immediately after you have
removed and disposed of the gloves.

How to hygienically remove disposable gloves after use:

Step 1 Hold your right hand out with the palm facing up.
Step 2 Pinch a portion of the glove that covers the inside of your wrist on
your right hand. Use the thumb and index finger of your left hand.
Step 3 Gently pull the glove down about halfway over your palm, revealing
the inside of the glove. Do not completely remove the glove. Let go of the
glove after you pull it down over the palm.
Step 4 Use your right thumb and index finger to repeat these steps on your
left hand. This time, you will pinch the outside of the glove above the inner
portion of your left wrist and completely remove the glove on the left hand.
Continue holding the left glove with your right thumb and index finger.
Step 5 Pull up a portion of the right glove with your bare left thumb and
index finger. Touch only the inside portion of the glove that has already
been revealed.
Step 6 Remove the right glove by pulling down with your left thumb and
index finger. As you pull down, the left glove that has already been removed
should fold up inside the right-hand glove.
Step 7 Dispose of the rubber gloves in a proper container. Gloves that were
in contact with certain substances, e.g., chemicals and bodily fluids, cannot
be thrown away in public trash receptacles.
SINGLE USE ITEMS

Single use items are items that can potentially be contaminated with blood or
other bodily fluids and are items that cannot readily be cleaned or disinfected.
For example, waxing spatulas, orange sticks, cotton wool, disposable
underwear and paper towels. Single use items must be disposed 0f after each
use.

HEPATITIS

Hepatitis means liver inflammation. Around half of all acute cases of hepatitis
are due to a viral infection. Several kinds of hepatitis virus can infect the liver,
the most common being Hepatitis A and B.

Hepatitis A is caught through the contamination of food and water with

feces (stools) through poor personal hygiene or sanitation.
Hepatitis B is spread through the exchange of blood and body fluids, and
can be caught through unprotected sex, unsterilized needles, a needle
stick injury (accidental puncture of skin by a used needle) or contaminated
blood products.
Hepatitis C is also spread through the exchange of blood or blood
products. It is spread through sharing needles and needle stick accidents.
It can also spread by blood transfusions given before September 1992,
when screening for Hepatitis C was introduced.

THERE ARE FOUR OTHER RECOGNIZED HEPATITIS VIRUSES, NAMED FROM

HEPATITIS D TO HEPATITIS G.

- Hepatitis A and E cause only acute infection; Hepatitis B and C cause chronic
(ongoing) illness; Hepatitis D is only present in people infected with Hepatitis B.
- Hepatitis can be caused by the glandular fever virus.
- Vaccinations are available for Hepatitis A and B (singly or combined), and
also as a combination of Hepatitis A and Typhoid.
- There is a small risk of contracting the Hepatitis B virus from sharing
toothbrushes, razors or towels that may be contaminated with blood. Unsafe
tattooing and body piercing practices also risk potentially spreading the virus.
- It is recommended that all therapists have a vaccination against Hepatitis B.
COVID-19 UPDATED PROTOCOLS

In light of the current global COVID-19 pandemic, the CDC or Center for
Disease Control and Prevention have passed guidelines to assist estheticians in
their daily sanitizing protocols. Below are the basic tips to keep in mind. Then we
will dive into safety methods to practice before, during, and after your client's
appointment.

BASIC TIPS TO FOLLOW

Because you are working so closely with your client and they will not have
anything over their mouth, the best way to keep yourself safe if it wears an N95
mask. However, whether you can acquire one may depend on your state or
region. If N95 is not obtainable, it is recommended that you wear a 3-ply face
mask at all times.

If your clients are not having any work done on or around their mouths, or they
are only having a consultation, have them wear a face mask. This will reduce the
chance of contamination. If you or your clients show any symptoms, stay home to
reduce the chance of passing it on.

Be sure to sanitize everything from handles to chairs, to pens and anything in

between. Share your disinfection protocol with clients and if you have one, your
cancellation or rescheduling rules.

Maintain multiple sets of your tools (pens, needles) and supplies to allow for a
quicker and more sanitary treatment turnaround time.

Maintain 6 feet distance when possible and do not touch your face even with
gloves on. Always wash your hands with a germicide-based soap and keep
everything sanitized. If you can purchase an autoclave, it is a wise investment.
This machine disinfects metal implements and tools. If you are unable to acquire
one, be sure to have a disinfecting solution to clean or wipe your tools and
implements with.

Provide yourself additional time to clean between procedures to ensure your

treatment space is disinfected.
A support staff to help clean and keep the areas sanitized would prove to be
beneficial. Another great way to keep your environment sterile and infection-
free is to use a germicidal lamp.

Some states do not allow for a waiting room, so if you are in one of these states
be sure to schedule your clients accordingly to reduce their wait time. Also, you
can suggest that clients wait in their car, and then you can call them when you
are ready for them. If you are in a state that allows for a waiting room area, be
sure the clients are six feet apart and wearing face masks. Have hand sanitizer
available for them.

Read up on your state's rules and regulations regarding COVID-19 to make sure
you are in compliance.

PRIOR TO PROCEDURE

Before your client comes, make sure the room and all your tools are sanitized
and clean. Have your hands washed using an alcohol-based soap, a nail brush,
and have your mask on ready to greet them. Make sure your working station is
sanitized and ready for them. It is recommended that you have multiple tools on
hand. Do not touch your client but greet them the best you can. Have them wear
a mask or provide them with one if possible. For your tools and products, be sure
to have a sterilized tray to hold them and keep your items organized.

AFTER PROCEDURE

After your work is complete, be sure to throw any linen or towels used in the
appropriate bins. Disinfect every tool, device, item, chair, and handle you or your
client came in contact with. Place your tools or machinery in the proper
sanitizing solution or in the autoclave to be rid of any possible contamination.
Be sure you wash your hands after the procedure once you have disposed of
your gloves. Another level of protection is to use contact-less payment methods.
The less surfaces touched, the better. If this is not possible, wipe down your
payment processing devices after each use.
INFECTION CONTROL

Now more than ever, we need to educate ourselves on how pathogens spread,
and what we can do to protect ourselves. In this module we will cover best
practices for preventing the spread of infection, but we encourage you to take
an infection control course to be fully aware of how best to protect yourself and
your clients.

HOW INFECTION SPREADS

Direct and Indirect Contact: We can come in contact with germs by

touching a surface that has been contaminated by someone coughing or
sneezing on it, or by infectious particles being transferred to the object in
another manner. This is transmission via indirect contact. Direct contact
involves directly touching another person.
Droplet Transmission: Droplets from sneezing, coughing or talking can
briefly travel in the air and infect another person though the mouth, nose or
eyes. Wearing a face mask greatly helps reduce the chance of droplet-
borne transmission.
Airborne Transmission: When infectious particles are small enough to float
in the air for an extended period of time, they can cause airborne
transmission of disease.
Reduce the Spread of Infection : It's helpful to know the chain of infection
so that we can learn ways to disrupt this chain and reduce the chance of
spreading sickness. The chain of infection is a sequence of events that must
occur in order to cause a sickness.

THE CHAIN OF INFECTION

Infectious Agent: This is the microscopic pathogen that can cause an

infection.
Reservoir: Reservoirs are places in the environment where the infectious
agent
lives such as on or within an animal or human host.
Portal of Exit: This is the specific way the infectious agent leaves the
reservoir.
For example, many viruses exit a host by the respiratory tract. Bloodborne
pathogens exist in the blood, so their portal of exit could be a cut or scratch.
 Mode of Transmission: There are many ways infections can be spread. The
three most common ways an infectious agent can be transmitted to another
host are by droplets (coughing, sneezing, talking), direct and indirect
contact and airborne particles.
Portal of Entry: A portal of entry is the way the infectious agent enters its
new host. This could be through the nose, mouth, or other tissues.
Susceptible Host: The susceptible host is the person the pathogen enters
and infects.

Breaking the Chain Of Infection

Eliminating or Inactivating the Infectious Agent

Example- pest control, antibiotics, antiviral medication, sterilizing surfaces,
washing hands
Preventing Contact
Example- isolating or quarantining infected individual
Preventing Infectious Agent Escape
Example- covering the mouth when coughing or sneezing, wearing a face
mask
Blocking the Ports of Entry
Example- wearing gloves, using a mosquito net while sleeping, wearing a
face mask, wearing a face shield
Offering Resistance to the Host
Example- natural immune response, vaccines

PRECAUTIONS TO PREVENT THE SPREAD OF INFECTION

The best way to stop infections from spreading is by interrupting the chain of
infection. The two main categories for breaking the chain of infection are
standard precautions and transmission-based precautions.

Hand Washing

Hand washing is a simple yet effective way to reduce infections. Many

pathogens, including coronaviruses have a fatty outer cell membrane. Soap can
breakdown and dissolve fat. When you wash your hands, the soap is disrupting
the molecular bond of these infectious substances.
If you lather up long enough, you can completely kill many types of bacteria,
viruses and other infectious agents. Wash your hands for 20 seconds to help
prevent spreading infection to yourself or someone else.

Sanitation

One of the most efficient ways to prevent the transmission of infections is to

keep your work environment clean and sanitized.

The CDC recommends the following guidelines:

Procedures and policies should be in place for routine care, cleaning, and
disinfection of environmental surfaces, especially frequently touched surfaces in
(procedure equipment, door knobs, etc.)
All waste, such as used disposable syringes and needles, scalpel blades,
micro blades, ampoules, gloves, etc., should be considered potentially
infectious, and they should be classified, handled, and disposed of properly.

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

Another way in which you can control the spread of infection is to use personal
protective equipment or PPE. Personal protective equipment is an inexpensive
yet effective way to impact two different sequences within the chain of
infection. They can prevent transmission through a portal of exit or infection by
blocking portals of entry.

PPE OPTIONS

Masks, Goggles, Face Shields: used during procedures that are likely to
generate spes or sprays of blood, body fluids, and secretions
Gloves: used whenever there is a potential for contact with blood, body
fluids, mucous membranes, broken skin, or contaminated equipment
RE-GLOVING

With procedures you may find yourself constantly needing to re-glove.

Sometimes you will find yourself needing to grab something from a drawer, but
you are already wearing your gloves. If you do pick up something the gloves are
no longer sterile. Before you touch anything, you will need to take your gloves off
so that you are not contaminating the handle and anything else you touch in the
process. You need to be stay conscious of what you're about to touch when
doing procedures. The only items you should be touching while wearing your
gloves are what you have set up on your tray before the procedure.

In order to avoid having to put on a new pair of gloves because you forgot an
item, have your work area properly set up. Below are the items you will need to
equip your treatment space at your own facility.

SAFETY FOR NEEDLES, BLADES AND SHARP ITEMS

Sharp items such as needles, microblade, and ampoules that have been used
should be considered contaminated. Place the used probe or needle in a
designated waste receptacle for contaminated items. This waste receptacle
should have a lid.

The location of your waste bin for contaminated materials should not be near a
general client waiting room or other type of common area, but in a secure
location with limited chance for accidental contact. Seal the bag and dispose
of properly at the end of the day.
 ANATOMY AND
PHYSIOLOGY
THE SKIN

The skin is the largest organ of the body. The skin functions in a number of ways
to protect us from external elements.

Prevents the absorption of harmful substances

Helps regulate body temperature
Acts as a barrier to keep out infection
Melanin in the skin protects us from the harmful effects of UV light
Provides a waterproof coating that prevents us from becoming dehydrated
Provides an energy reserve in the form of stored fat

THE STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN

The skin is made up of two distinct layers, the epidermis and the dermis.
Between them is the basement membrane which keeps the two layers
together. Beneath these layers is the subcutaneous layer, a layer of fat that
protects, cushions, insulates and stores extra energy for the body.

THE EPIDERMIS

The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. It is composed of five layers.
Each layer of the epidermis can be recognized by its shape and by the
function of its cells. The main type of cell found in the epidermis is the
keratinocyte, which produces the protein keratin.

Cell renewal happens over a period of approximately four weeks. Cells move
from the bottom layer of the epidermis (basal layer) to the top layer (horny
layer) changing in shape and structure as they progress. The top layer of the
epidermis is the layer that dies, and which is shed from the skin ‘desquamation’.
This is the layer that is removed in microdermabrasion treatment and also the
layer that helps to reflect UV light away from the skin, which is why it is
important that clients use sun protection after microdermabrasion treatment.
THE FIVE LAYERS OF THE EPIDERMIS

1. Stratum corneum or ’horny Layer’

This is the outermost layer of the epidermis, made up of several layers of

flattened, mostly dead, overlapping cells. These cells help to reflect UV light.
Black skin, which evolved to withstand strong UV light, has a thicker stratum
corneum than Caucasian skin. It takes about three weeks for the epidermal
cells to reach the stratum corneum from the stratum germinativum. The cells
are then shed; a process called desquamation.

2. Stratum Lucidum or ‘Lucid Layer’

This layer is only found in thicker areas of the skin such as the palms of the
hands or soles of the feet.

3. Stratum granulosum or ‘granular Layer’

In this layer cells begin to die. These cells have what look like granules within
them caused by the nuclei breaking up. These granules are known as
keratohyaline granules and later form keratin.

4. Stratum Spinosum or ‘prickle cell Layer’

The stratum spinosum is made up of cells which have a spikey surface (hence
the name) to connect with surrounding cells. This is the layer that begins to
synthesize keratin.

5. Stratum germinativum or ‘Basal Layer’

Column shaped cells responsible for producing new epidermal cells. Cells
divide and move up to higher layers. The remaining cells divide to fill the gaps.
This process of cell division is known as Mitosis.

The germinative zone of the epidermis also contains two other important cells,
Langerhan and Melanocyte cells.
 Langerhan cells - absorb & remove foreign bodies that enter the skin.
They move out of the epidermis and into the dermis below then finally enter
the lymph system; the body’s ‘waste disposal system’.
Melanocyte cells - Responsible for the production of melanin in the skin.
These protect the other epidermal cells from the harmful effects of UV.
Melanin helps determine our skin color; the more melanin present the
darker our skin tone.

THE DERMIS

The dermis is the layer found beneath the epidermis and is responsible for the
strength and elasticity of the skin. It also contains lots of specialized cells and
structures including nerves, blood vessels, glands & hair follicles. The dermis
consists of two layers, the papillary and reticular layers. The upper, papillary
layer contains a thin arrangement of collagen fibers. The reticular layer beneath
is made of dense collagen fibers arranged parallel with the skin’s surface.
Hair Follicle Hair Shaft Stratum
Erector
Muscle Corneum
•

•
Epidermis
•

Papillary Layer
•

Sebaceous
Gland
•

Reticular Layer
•
•

Sensory
Nerve
•

Ending
• Sweat Gland
•

Dermis
•

Subcutaneous Dermal Blood supply to and from the heart

Layer Papilla

The Reticular Layer

The reticular layer consists of two sorts of protein: elastin fibers which give the
skin its elasticity and collagen fibers which give the skin its strength. These fibers
are held in a gel-like substance called ‘ground substance’.
The elastin and collagen fibers form a strong network which gives us our youthful
appearance. As we age these fibers in the skin begin to harden and fragment;
the network starts to break down and our skin starts to lose its elasticity and
show visible signs of ageing. Blood circulation to the skin declines; nutrients do
not reach the surface, resulting in sallow skin. The fatty layer beneath the skin
grows thinner so we look more drawn as our bone structure is more prominent.
The reticular layer is vital to our skin’s health and appearance and so it is
essential that it is looked after in order to prevent the signs of ageing.

THE SUBCUTANEOUS LAYER or SUBCUTIS

This layer is found below the dermis and attaches the skin to underlying
structures. It is made up of areolar connective tissue and varying amounts of
adipose tissue. It serves as a storage depot for fat and contains large blood
vessels that supply the skin. It contains sensory nerve endings called Pacinian
corpuscles that are sensitive to pressure.

FUNCTIONS OF THE SKIN

Protection - the skin covers the body and provides a physical barrier that
protects underlying tissues from chemicals, bacterial invasion, dehydration, and
UV radiation. Since the skin contains sensory nerve endings, the body reacts by
reflex action (withdrawal) to unpleasant or painful stimuli, protecting it from
further stimuli.

Melanin Formation - the skin produces melanin (secreted from melanocytes in

the germinative layer) and this can give some protection against harmful UV rays
in sunlight. Melanin is the primary determinant of skin colour.

Formation of Vitamin D - vitamin d is produced by the skin when it is exposed to

ultraviolet light. The body combines vitamin d (a substance that aids in the
absorption of calcium and phosphorous obtained from the gastrointestinal tract)
into blood. This is then used for the formation and maintenance of a healthy
bone structure.

Excretion - sodium chloride is excreted by the sweat glands; urea is excreted -

especially when the kidneys are not working properly, and aromatic substances
such as garlic / spices.
Secretion - the skin secretes sebum (a natural lubricant/moisturizer) which is
secreted from the sebaceous glands. This protects skin and hairs from drying out
and contains bactericidal chemicals that kill surface bacteria.

Absorption - some drugs can be absorbed through the skin, toxic chemicals,
essential oils.

Sensation - the skin contains sensory nerve endings which, when externally
stimulated, send messages to the brain, which in turn responds via the motor
nerves. These nerve endings warn of pain, cold, heat, pressure and touch.
Different receptors lie at different levels in the skin, helping to prevent trauma to
the skin and underlying structures.

Temperature Control - the temperature of a healthy body remains fairly constant

at about 36.8 c (98.4 f). In response to high environmental temperature or
strenuous exercise, the evaporation of sweat from the skin surface helps lower
an elevated temperature to normal. Changes in the flow of blood in the skin also
help regulate body temperature. A great deal of the body's heat is distributed by
the circulatory system around the body.

WHEN THE BODY IS TOO HOT

Capillaries in the skin dilate (open) and the heat from the extra blood, which has
been brought to the surface, is lost. The skin usually looks flushed. Sweat Glands
increase the rate of sweat production so that a continuous layer of moisture
covers the skin, keeping it cool.

WHEN THE BODY IS TOO COLD

Capillaries in the skin constrict (close) and reduce the amount of blood flowing
near to the surface. Blood is then diverted to the major organs, thus conserving
heat. The skin becomes cold and looks pale and lips often go blue. Sweat
Glands reduce the rate of sweat production. More heat is produced when
Shivering takes place. Heat is produced by the muscles. This causes us to have
goose bumps. Muscle Movements from stamping the feet, waving the arms, etc.
will also help to produce more heat. The Subcutis helps to guard against heat
loss providing an insulative layer.
 BUSINESS NAME
SKIN ANATOMY YourLogo
ACTIVITY SHEET
 BUSINESS NAME
SKIN ANATOMY YourLogo
ACTIVITY SHEET
EPIDERMAL WOUND HEALING

this occurs when the edges of the wound are close together and there has been
minimal loss of tissue. The cut surfaces become inflamed and blood clot and cell
debris fill the gap between them in the first few hours. Epithelial cells spread
across the wound. The epidermis meets and grows upwards until the full
thickness is restored. The clot above the new tissue becomes the scab and
separates after 3 to 10 days. When healing is complete only a fine scar is left

THE FOUR PHASES OF DEEP WOUND HEALING

There are four phases of deep wound healing:

The Inflammatory Phase. A blood clot forms in the wound and loosely
unites the wound edges. More blood is brought to the area to help eliminate
microbes, foreign particles and dying tissue in preparation for repair.
Neutrophils and monocytes also migrate to the area to help mop up
microbes.

The Migratory Phase. The blood clot becomes a scab and epithelial cells
migrate beneath the scab to bridge the wound. Fibroblasts migrate along
the fibrin threads and begin to synthesize scar tissue (collagen fibers).
Damaged blood vessels begin to regrow.

The Proliferative Phase. Extensive growth of epithelial tissue occurs

beneath the scab. Blood vessels and scar tissue continue to grow.

The Maturation Phase. Finally, the scab falls off indicating that the
epidermis has been restored to normal thickness. Blood vessels are restored
to normal and collagen fibers become more organized.
HOW SKIN IS REPLACED

Cell renewal takes place in the epidermis. Cells undergo a process called
keratinization. Living cells are formed in the basal layer and are pushed through
the layers of the epidermis and finally reach the surface layer – the corneum
layer. While going through these layers, the cells make keratin, a protein that
helps protect the skin and underlying tissues from heat, microbes and chemicals.
At the same time the cytoplasm, nucleus and other parts of the cell disappear,
and the cells slowly die. The cells that reach the surface are eventually rubbed
off or wear away and are replaced by new cells that have originated in the
germinative layer and in turn, become keratinized, and then make their way up
to the top. This is a continuous process and complete replacement of the
epidermis takes about 2 – 4 weeks.

HOW SKIN IS MAINTAINED

The maintenance of healthy epidermis depends on three factors:

Desquamation (shedding) of keratinized cells from the surface

Effective keratinization of the cells approaching the surface
Continual cell division in the deeper layers with newly formed cells being
pushed to the surface

HOW SKIN IS REPAIRED

SYSTEMIC FACTORS

These include good nutritional status and general health. Infections, weak or
impaired immune systems, poor blood supply and systemic conditions e.g.,
diabetes mellitus and cancer, reduce the rate of wound healing.

LOCAL FACTORS

A good blood supply to provide oxygen and nutrients and to remove waste
products, and a lack of microbes, foreign bodies or toxic chemicals will speed
up and encourage wound healing.
 BUSINESS NAME
CIRCULATORY SYSTEM YourLogo
BLOOD FLOW

The blood circulates through the body to all the cells, carrying vital nutrients and
energy such as oxygen, glucose and other raw materials essential for the body’s
health, maintenance and growth.

The vacuum action of microdermabrasion treatment assists in the stimulation of

the micro- circulation near the skin’s surface. This promotes increased blood flow
to the area which promotes collagen and elastin production in the skin as well
as cell renewal (skin regeneration), aiding tissue repair and revealing smoother
and fresher skin.

This diagram shows how the blood flows through the cells; first delivering
nutrients and energy and then removing waste products such as carbon dioxide.

1 Blood is under high pressure as it flows through the capillary network forcing
fluid out into the tissue and becoming tissue fluid. This fluid contains useful
substances like oxygen and nutrients essential for the cells. Blood cells and large
proteins remain in the capillary.

2 As the blood becomes de-oxygenated pressure is reversed and some of the

fluid containing waste products will re-enter the capillaries and be carried
away.

3 Excess fluids, waste products and large molecules like proteins that were
unable to re-enter the blood are taken up by lymph capillaries and carried to
lymph nodes where the fluid is processed and enters back into the blood nearer
to the heart.

Vaso-dilation happens when you are:

Hot – blood passes close to the surface – heat is released

Vaso-constriction happens when you are:

Cold – blood flows through shunt vessels away from the surface – heat is retained
BLOOD FLOW THROUGH THE SKIN

Normal body temperature is 37°c. The body will work to maintain this
temperature. If body temperature start to rise, blood will pass close to the skin to
release some of the heat. When body temperature falls, capillaries are
constricted and blood will pass through ‘shunt vessels’ deeper in the dermis
instead, reducing the amount of heat lost through the skin.
 THE LYMPHATIC SYSTEM

The lymphatic system is a network of vessels, nodes, and ducts that collect and
circulate excess fluid in the body. While often underappreciated, it is an
integral component of the circulatory, immune, and metabolic systems. Its main
functions include enhancement of the immune system, absorption of dietary
fats and fluid balance maintenance.

Lymph

Lymph is a pale fluid that flows throughout the lymphatic system. It originates
from fluid that has leaked from the vascular system into the interstitial space. It
is then reabsorbed via the lymphatic capillaries. Interestingly, approximately
10% of blood volume becomes lymph and a healthy adult will produce around
3-4 litres of lymphatic fluid every single day.
Lymphatic vessels

The lymphatic transport system can be subdivided into many different

components: capillaries, collecting vessels, afferent lymph vells, lymph nodes,
efferent lymph vessels and ducts.

Lymph nodes

A lymph node is a kidney-shaped organ, which is about 2cm in size, found at

the convergence of major blood vessels. Every adult has approximately 800
lymph nodes which are mainly situated in the neck, axilla, thorax, abdomen and
groin.

Lymphoid organs

The lymphatic system also includes tissues and organs that make, store and
release lymphocytes (a type of white blood cell which can be divided into B
lymphocytes, T lymphocytes and natural killer (NK) cells). These lymphoid organs
are classed as either primary or secondary based on their function and
structure.

FUNCTION

There are 3 primary functions of the lymphatic system:

1. Enhancement and facilitation of the immune system – Pathogens can easily

enter this network to facilitate rapid spread throughout the body. To prevent
this, the lymphatic system possesses filter-like structures (lymph nodes as
discussed above).

2. Maintenance of fluid balance – The lymphatic system returns excess

interstitial fluid to the blood. Overall, about 90% is returned and the remaining
10% becomes part of the interstitial fluid that surrounds the tissue cells.

3. Absorption of dietary fats from gastrointestinal tract to the bloodstream for

metabolism or storage - The mucosa that lines the small intestine is covered
with finger like projections called villi. In the centre of these villi, special lymph
capillaries (called lacteals) are present, along with blood capillaries. Whilst the
blood capillaries absorb most nutrients, the fats and fat-soluble vitamins are
absorbed by the lacteals. Interestingly, the lymph in the lacteals is known as
chyle due to its milky appearance caused by the high-fat content.
The lymphatic system is closely connected to the blood system. Its main function
is to remove bacteria and foreign material from tissue and therefore prevents
infection. The lymphatic system consists of the fluid lymph, the lymph vessels and
the lymph nodes.

Unlike the blood circulation, the lymphatic system has no muscular pump
equivalent to the heart. So instead, the lymph moves through the vessels and
around the body because of movements such as contractions of large muscles.

Facial massage can play an important part in assisting this flow of lymph fluid as
this promotes the removal of waste and toxins which is transported in the lymph.

In the diagram you can see the position of:

The superficial cervical group – which drains the back of the head and the
neck
The lower deep cervical group – which drains the back area of the scalp and
the neck.

LYMPH NODES OF THE HEAD

 BUSINESS NAME
SKULL ANATOMY YourLogo
 BUSINESS NAME
SKULL ANATOMY YourLogo
BONES OF THE HEAD & NECK

The face is made up of 14 facial bones, these are indicated in the diagram
below.

The rest of the skull is made up of the cranial bones there are eight in total
shown in the description below.

Bone Description

Palatine x 2 Forms the floor and wall of the nose and the mouth roof
Nasal x 2 Form the bridge of the nose
Turbinate x 2 These two bones form the outer walls of the nose
Vomer This is the dividing wall of the nose
Lacrimal x 2 The inner walls of the eye sockets
Maxilla x 2 Fused to form the upper jaw
Mandible The lower jaw
Zygomatic x 2 Cheekbones
 CRANIAL BONES

2 Parietal 1 Frontal

1 Sphenoid
2 Temporal

1 Ethmoid
1 Occipital

Occipital Located at the back of the skull, contains the hole for the
spinal chord, nerves and blood vessels to pass through
Parietal x 2 fused together to form the crown
Frontal Forehead and upper eye sockets
Temporal x 2 The sides of the head
Ethmoid Forms part of the nasal cavities
Sphenoid Bat-shaped bone joining all the cranial bones together
THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM
THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM

The muscular system is the body system that covers, shapes, and holds the
skeletal system in place; the muscular system contracts and moves various
parts of the body.

Cosmetologists must be concerned with the voluntary muscles that control

movements of the arms, hands, lower legs, and feet. it is important to know
where these muscles are located and what they control. These muscles can
become fatigued from excessive work or injury and your clients will benefit
greatly from the massaging techniques you incorporate into your services.

Muscular tissue can be stimulated by:

Massage (hand, electric vibrator, or water jets).

Electrical therapy current
infrared light.
Dry heat (heating lamps or heating caps).
Moist heat (steamers or moderately warm steam towels).
Nerve impulses (through the nervous system).
Chemicals (certain acids and salts).
MUSCLES OF THE FACE

The muscles overlay the bone structure and they enable you to wink,
grimace, eat and speak. They criss cross over one another in a complex
interlinked way with one end attached to a static bone via a strong tendon
at its origin and the other end attached to a moveable bone or another
muscle or the skin at the insertion.

To avoid discomfort, massage movements are always made towards the

muscle’s origin, away from the intersection.
 BUSINESS NAME
NERVOUS SYSTEM ANATOMY YourLogo
 BUSINESS NAME
CRANIAL NERVES YourLogo
CRANIAL NERVES

The nervous system is the body’s method of sending ‘information’ messages

from the brain to other parts of the body.

The nerves of the face and neck or ‘cranial’ nerves control the muscles in the
head and neck or carry nerve impulses (sensory information) from sense
organs to the brain. The 5th, 7th and 11th cranial nerves are those that we
are concerned with as therapists when performing facial treatments.
 THE FITZPATRICK
SCALE
The Fitzpatrick scale is a numerical classification for human skin color.
Developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, a Harvard dermatologist, as the
way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV)
light. It remains a recognized tool for dermatological research into human
skin pigmentation. Your Skin type is also used to determine your candidacy
for lasers, chemical peels, and skincare ingredients.

The spectrum of the Fitzpatrick Scale encompasses all skin colors/types, and
ranges from very fair —skin type 1(I) to very dark —skin type 6 (VI).

MAIN FACTORS THAT INFLUENCE SKIN TYPE

The three main factors that influence skin type are:

Genetic disposition: Your skin type is determined by your genetics and

is one of the many aspects of your overall appearance, it can dictate
your eye color, hair color/type, the depth of your capillaries, the
thickness of your skin, and your body’s ability to produce melanin.
Reaction to sun exposure and lasers: The way your skin reacts to sun
exposure is another important factor in correctly assessing your skin
type, as well as the safe start settings for laser treatments.
Tanning habits: How often do you tan? How easily do you tan? Do you
still go in the sun and tan?
Skin is also affected by:

• Hormones
• Weather
• Central heating
• Wrong products used
• Prolonged illness
• Medication or drugs
• Poor nutrition
• Smoking and alcohol intake
• Allergies
• Stress
• Genetic inheritance
• Ethnicity

Advanced Knowledge:
Which is the appropriate type of Laser or Chemical Peel for you skin type
based on your Fitzpatrick skin score?

The best candidates for deep lasers and chemical peels (Contour TRL, CO2,
and medium- or deep-depth peels like Phenol and TCA) are the lighter skin
types I, II, and III, which have a lesser chance of complications such as
hyperpigmentation (dark spots), hypopigmentation (light spots), and scarring.
Ablative lasers and chemical peel solutions that create a significant amount of
surface ablation, or that are designed to achieve medium-depths should be
reserved for these lower Fitzpatrick types.

Although types IV, V and VI are not ideal for lasers and peels, lower strength
lasers whose energy is absorbed deeper (Erbium, Nd-Yag, Halo) and
superficial peeling agents such as salicylic acid, glycolic, and enzymatic peels
in lower strengths are designed for darker skin types with great results.

Aggressive peel solutions are more appropriate for higher Fitzpatrick types but
require pre-treatment of the skin for 2-8 weeks depending on the individual.
 THE FITZPATRICK SCALE
The Fitzpatrick Skin Scale is a way of classifying skin types with specific reference to the risk of
sunburn and skin cancer. According to this scale, there are six types of skin, ranging from very light
(type 1) to very dark (type 6).

SKIN TYPE 1 SKIN TYPE 2

Light, pale white, freckled White, peach, fair

Always burns, never tans. Skin will usually burn in the sun
Light blue, light green, light grey eyes and tans with difficulty.
Blue, green, grey eyes

SKIN TYPE 3 SKIN TYPE 4

White to light brown, olive Olive, light to moderate brown

Skin can sometimes burn Skin rarely burns and tans easily.
and will tan gradually. Brown eyes
Hazel, light brown eyes

SKIN TYPE 5 SKIN TYPE 6

Brown, dark brown Very dark brown to black

Very rarely burns and tans very easily. Never burns, tans very easily,
Medium to dark brown eyes deeply pigmented.
Dark brown eyes

WHO IS MOST AT RISK OF SKIN CANCER?

fair red or freckles history of family

skin fair hair or moles sunburn history
FACIAL SKIN TYPES

There are six basic skin types. However, a person’s facial skin can vary at
different times during their life due to illness or hormonal imbalance.

DRY SKIN TYPES

Dry skin is caused by under or inactive oil glands that do not produce enough
sebum to keep the skin naturally hydrated. It usually has a dull appearance,
feels dry and itchy and is sometimes sensitive. Dry skin must be hydrated
regularly from the inside (drinking water) and outside with rich hydrating
creams or lotions.

OILY SKIN TYPES

oily skin is caused by glands that produce too much sebum, resulting in skin
that appears shiny and has large open pores. oily skin types are prone to
develop comedones (blackheads) and acne. Despite these drawbacks oily skin
generally remains younger looking and remains suppler over time than other
skin types. oily skin benefits hugely from microdermabrasion with the
application of light moisturizers.
SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES

Sensitive skins can be dry, normal or oily and are characterized by their
delicacy. Sensitive skin frequently reacts adversely to environmental conditions
and often requires special treatment in order to remain in good condition.
Sensitive skin benefits greatly from natural skin care products and treatments.

NORMAL SKIN TYPES

Normal skin produces sebum at a moderate rate, resulting in a balanced state.

Normal skin looks consistently plump, moist and vibrant. A great blessing but still
requires no less attention. It benefits from regular cleansing, toning and
moisturizing.

COMBINATION SKIN TYPES

Combination skin is the most common skin type. Combination skin is frequently
characterized by an oily T zone area that covers the forehead, nose and chin.
While the skin around the cheeks, eyes and mouth is normal to dry. People with
combination skin should assess their skin regularly and use different products on
different areas of the face.

MATURE SKIN TYPES

Mature skin has the following characteristics: skin becomes dry as sebaceous
glands become less active. Skin loses elasticity; fine lines and wrinkles appear.
Skin appears thinner with broken capillaries, especially on the cheek area and
around the nose. Facial contours become slack as muscle tone is reduced.
Underlying bone structure becomes more obvious, as the fatty layer beneath the
skin grows thinner.

Blood circulation becomes poor, which interferes with skin nutrition making skin
appear sallow. Due to the decrease in metabolic rate, waste products are not
removed as quickly leading to puffiness of the skin. Mature skin must be
hydrated well by drinking water regularly and using nourishing moisturizers.
SKIN COLOR TYPES

The tone of human skin can vary from dark brown to nearly a colorless
pigmentation, which may appear reddish due to blood in the skin. Europeans
generally have lighter skin, hair and eyes than any other group, although this is
not always the case. For practical purposes, six types are distinguished
following the fitzpatrick scale (1975).

BLACK

Black skin (people from Africa, Native Australians, African- Americans,

Caribbean’s, and Other Islands) is darker than northern European skin because
of the increased amount of melanin in the skin. Melanin is the pigment in the
skin and protects the skin from sunlight. This keeps black people looking
younger than white skinned people. The melanin pigment in the skin protects
the skin from sunlight and slows down the aging process. As black people age,
their skin often becomes irregularly pigmented. This shows up as dark patches
on the skin. Irregular pigmentation can also be caused by inflammation. If an
area of the skin becomes inflamed or red from an insect bite or from an acne
pimple, a brown area can be left behind as the redness or inflammation
subsides.

WHITE CHINESE

Thin epidermis
Light yellow skin tones
Prone to early signs of ageing
Oily skin
Delicate skin tone
Shiny appearance
Skin tones are linked to color of hair
Open pores
Bruises quite easily
Prone to blackheads
Prone to scaring if extraction is to heavy handed
ASIAN

Asian skin tends to be smooth and pore less with yellow undertones. Asian skin
is more prone to irritation. Commonly used preservatives, fragrances and
alcohol suitable for Caucasian skin can actually cause irritation when used on
Asian skin.

Asian skin has larger pores than Caucasian skin. Asian skin has a greater need
for daily exfoliation to minimize the appearance of pores and even out skin
tone and texture. Asian skin is more prone to acne.

MIXED

A very thorough analysis is needed to determine the correct skin type as people
with this skin type don’t fall into any particular category and normally have a
combination of skin coloring.
SKIN DISORDERS & DISEASES

Infectious diseases that are contagious contra-indicate beauty treatment.

People with certain skin disorders, even though these are not contagious,
should likewise not be treated by the therapist as treatment might lead to
secondary infection. The therapist must be able to distinguish a healthy skin
from one suffering from any skin disease or disorder

Important: If You Are Uncertain Or Unable To Identify A Skin Condition

You Should Not Treat The Client And Advise Them To Consult Their
Doctor. Certain skin disorders and diseases contra-indicate a beauty
treatment: the treatment would expose the therapist and other clients to
the risk of cross-infection it is therefore vital that you are familiar with
the skin diseases & disorders with which you may come into contact.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS

Bacteria can be present in large numbers on the skin without causing us any ill
harm. However, certain types of bacteria are harmful to us, and these are
known as ‘pathogenic’. Pathogenic bacteria can cause skin diseases which are
infectious and therefore a client should not be treated if found to be suffering
from the following bacterial infections:

Impetigo Extremely infectious and is easily spread through contact. Impetigo

usually appears on the face first around the nose, mouth & ears, and can
spread to other areas. Initially red and itchy, blisters appear, and these
become crusty and weep.

Conjunctivitis: Conjunctivitis is not always infectious as it can be caused by

an allergic reaction or as a result of an irritant. However, it would be
impossible for you to determine this so it should always be treated as
infectious. The eye will appear red and inflamed; eyes might also be watery or
have pus coming from the eye area.

Styes: Styes are an infection of the sebaceous gland at the root of an eye.
This causes a swelling which can leave the adjacent area red, and the
affected follicle will have a small lump filled with pus.

Boil/Furuncle A boil or furuncle is caused by the inflammation of hair follicles,

resulting in an accumulation of pus and dead tissues. Boils are red, pus-filled
lumps that are tender, warm, and/or painful. A yellow or white point at the
centre of the lump can be seen when the boil is ready to drain.
VIRAL INFECTIONS

The particles of a virus are so small they cannot grow and reproduce on their
own, so they require a ‘host’ cell. Viruses invade healthy living cells in the body
so they can reproduce. They enter the body any way they can, by inhalation,
through saliva, sexual contact. our immune system is designed to deal with
most viruses, and we will naturally fight off most infections. Clients suffering
from the following viral infections should not receive microdermabrasion
treatment.

Herpes Simplex (Cold Sores)

Cold sores are caught by close contact with someone who already has cold
sores. They are characterized by a tingling feeling in the skin followed by sores
which scab. Commonly found on the mucous membranes of the nose or lips
they can also occur on other areas of the skin.

Herpes Zoster (Shingles)

Shingles is an infection of the nerve and the area supplied by the nerve. The
virus usually affects one nerve, commonly the chest, abdomen or the upper
face. Symptoms occur in the area of skin supplied by the nerve, causing
redness, blisters and scabs.

FUNGAL INFECTIONS

Fungi are parasitic, microscopic plants feeding off the waste products of the
skin. Some fungal infections are found on the skin’s surface others are deeper
within the skin tissue. Clients with fungal infections should not be treated as
these diseases are infectious and can be spread.

Tinea Corporis/Ring Worm Ringworm is a fungal infection of the skin found on

the trunk of the body, the limbs & face. They appear as scaly red patches on the
skin which spread outwards. The patches heal from the centre leaving a ring.
Other skin disorders are not infectious however they should be treated with
some caution and in some cases avoided altogether.
SEBACEOUS GLAND DISORDERS

The sebaceous glands are small glands which secrete an oily substance called
sebum in the hair follicle to lubricate the skin, they are found in greatest
abundance on the face and scalp. Sebaceous gland disorders include acne,
rosacea and milia. Sebaceous gland disorders are generally caused by an over
production of sebum.

Milia

Also known as ‘milk spots’ or ‘oil seeds’ they are benign, keratin filled cysts
usually found around the nose and eyes. They are small, hard, white or pale
yellow in appearance. They are not infectious and can be removed using a
sterile needle to pierce the overlying skin and release the keratin.

Comedones / Blackheads

Caused by excess sebum and keratinized cells blocking the hair follicle. They
are found on the face, the upper back and chest and are not infectious.
h
Seborrhea

Caused by excessive secretion of sebum, usually occurs during puberty

because of hormonal changes. Sufferers will have enlarged follicles and
excessive sebum. It is not infectious and usually found on the face and scalp. It
can also affect the back and chest.

Sebaceous Cysts

These form in the hair follicle when sebum becomes blocked and a lump form.
They are not infectious.

Acne Vulgaris

Hormonal imbalance during puberty causes an increase in the production of

sebum. This in turn causes congestion in the sebaceous ducts resulting in
inflammation of the skin, comedones, pustules and papules.

Rosacea

Caused by a combination of excessive sebum secretion and chronic

inflammatory condition, skin becomes coarse, pores enlarge, cheeks and nose
become red and inflamed. The skin can look purplish in appearance because
of slow blood circulation.
PIGMENTATION

Hyper-pigmentation - Increased Pigmentation

Chloasmata ‘liver spots’ - increased pigment production can be caused

by UV light, often occurs during pregnancy, estrogen is believed to
stimulate the production of melanin and so may also occur as a result of
taking the contraceptive pill. They occur on the hands, forearms, upper
chest, temples and forehead.
Ephelides ‘freckles’ - caused by exposure to UV light which stimulates the
production of melanin. Found on the nose and cheeks of fair skinned
people, also can occur on the hands, arms, shoulders and back.
Lentigo - patches of hyperpigmentation larger than freckles, occurring
either in childhood or middle age due to sun exposure. Found on the face,
hands and shoulders.

Hypopigmentation - Loss Of Pigment

Vitiligo - patches of skin which have no pigment in them so appear

completely white
Albinism - skin with no pigment whatsoever and so the skin, hair and eyes
lack color. Skin is very pale pink; eyes are also pink, and hair is white.

Erythema

Erythema is the reddening of the skin caused by dilation of the blood vessels
controlling capillary networks in areas of the skin affected by injury or infection.
VASCULAR NAEVI

These are areas of pigmentation caused by permanent dilation of blood

capillaries

Dilated Capillaries –small red capillaries visible in areas that are

neglected or dry like the cheeks.
Spider Naevi – dilated blood vessels with dilated capillaries spreading out
around them.
Naevi Vasculosis ‘strawberry marks’ – red or purplish raised marks that
appear on the skin at birth
Capillary Naevi ‘Port-wine stain’ – large areas of dilated capillaries

TELANGIECTASIA (BROKEN CAPILLARIES)

Any form of broken capillary can be made worse by the vacuum action of
microdermabrasion. These “thread veins” are quite common around the nose
and cheek area. The area would have to be avoided completely or the
treatment would have to be performed at a very low level.

KELOIDS

Keloids are scar tissue with excess deposits of collagen. Skin is raised in
appearance, red with ridges. This type of scar tissue cannot be treated with
microdermabrasion. Stretch marks and post- operative scars can be treated,
however scar tissue should not be treated until all the inflammation has
disappeared (6 months post-surgery for example).

DERMATITIS

An inflammation of the skin caused by an irritant or allergen. There are several

types of dermatitis, symptoms can include skin which is red, itchy, flaking,
scaling, weeping, swollen and possibly blistered depending on the severity.

Irritant contact dermatitis occurs quickly after contact with a strong irritant or
over a longer period after prolonged and repeated exposure to a weak irritant.
Common causes of this type of dermatitis are soaps, shampoos and
detergents, dust, oil and grease, repeated and prolonged contact with water.
Allergic contact dermatitis is caused when the sufferer develops an allergy to a
substance. Common causes are hair dyes, adhesives and food such as shellfish

ECZEMA

There are two main types of eczema, atopic and contact.

Atopic eczema tends to develop in childhood and many children grow out
of it.
Contact eczema usually affects adults and is caused by contact with an
allergen such as nickel, detergents, soaps and perfumes.

When suffering from eczema the skin becomes itchy, dry and flaky, and is often
red and painful. Sometimes it weeps or bleeds. Areas commonly affected are
the face, neck and skin particularly in the inner creases of the elbows and
behind the knees.

PSORIASIS

Psoriasis is a chronic, autoimmune disease affecting the skin and joints. Psoriasis
causes scaly patches of skin called psoriatic plaques which are areas of
inflammation and excessive skin production which rapidly becomes silvery white
in appearance due to the build-up of skin.
SKIN ANALYSIS

Skin analysis is a very important part of the facial treatment because it

determines what type of skin the client has, the condition of the skin, and what
type of treatment the client’s skin needs. Consultation allows you the
opportunity to ask the client questions about his or her health and skin care
history, and it allows you to advise the client about appropriate home-care
products and treatments.

When examining the face and neck it is very important to consider the
following points:

Look for minor skin problems that can be given specific treatment for
improvement

Take into account the clients age, lifestyle, nutritional intake and general
health as this will be reflected in the colour and texture of the skin, muscle
tone, elasticity, the number of wrinkles present and skin discoloration.

You can exam the skin, carry out questioning, visual examination and manual
examination.

CHANGES IN SKIN COLOR

The color of our skin can change if subjected to certain situations:

Shock - the body will go into shock when blood does not pick up adequate
amounts of oxygen to supply the lungs. The skin will become clammy, cool,
pale and appear bluish in colour due to vasoconstriction of skin blood
vessels.

Sunlight - melanin is a dark body pigment and is found in the hair, the iris
of the eye and in the skin. Its function is to absorb harmful ultraviolet
waves, and to prevent them from damaging the body. Exposure to
ultraviolet light increases the production of melanin and the skin then
darkens, or tans.
Overexposure to the sun over a period of years can result in a leathery skin
texture, wrinkles, skin folds, sagging skin, freckling, a yellow discoloration
due to abnormal elastic tissue, premature ageing of the skin and skin
cancer.

Albinism is an inherited inability to produce melanin - there is an absence

of melanin pigment in the hair, eyes and skin. Vitiligo is caused when there
is partial or complete loss of melanocytes from patches of skin - this
produces irregular white spots.

Emotions - when we feel frightened, adrenaline is secreted by the adrenal

medulla. In doing so, blood is diverted from the skin and gut to the muscles.
It is the reason for turning ‘pale with fear ‘, the blood drains from our face.
If we get excited, embarrassed (blushing) or angry, the skin can go red. This
is called an erythema and is caused when the capillaries in the dermis fill
with blood.
ANALYSIS PROCEDURE

After carefully reading the client’s health screening form and discussing your
questions with the client, have the client change into a smock and sit in the
facial chair. The client’s hair should be covered, and any jewelry should be
removed by the client and put away in a safe place. Jewelry can get in the
way or become soiled or damaged during treatment.

Cosmetologists should avoid wearing jewelry on the hands or arms while

administering facial treatments because rings and bracelets may
accidentally injure the client or be damaged.

Recline the client in the chair and drape the client using a hair cap,
headband, or towels. After washing your hands thoroughly, warm some
cleansing milk in your hands and apply the cleanser to the face in upward
circular movements. When cleansing the eye area, use a special cleanser
made for eye makeup removal. Apply a small amount to the eye areas, being
careful not to use so much that it gets in the eyes.

Gently remove the cleanser with warm damp facial sponges or cotton pads.
Remember to remove the cleanser using upward and outward movements.

When working around the eyes, move outward on the upper lid, and inward
on the lower lid.

After thoroughly cleansing the face, apply a cotton eye pad to the client’s
eyes to avoid exposure to the extreme brightness of the magnifying lamp.

CAUTION

Cosmetologists do not treat skin diseases. However, as a professional, you

must be able to recognize the presence of various skin ailments in order to
suggest that the client seek medical advice from a physician.

Look through the magnifying lamp at the client’s skin. Skin type is
determined by how oily or dry the skin is. Skin type is hereditary and cannot
be permanently changed with treatments, although the skin may look
considerably better after treatment.
Skin conditions are characteristics associated with a particular skin
type. The first thing you should look for is the presence or absence of visible
pores (follicles). The amount of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands
determines the size of the pores and is hereditary. Obvious pores indicate
oily skin areas, and lack of visible pores indicates dry skin.

SKIN TYPES

The term alipidic (al-ah-PIDD-ic) means lack of lipids, and describes skin
that does not produce enough sebum, indicated by absence of visible pores.
Alipidic skin, also known as dry skin, becomes dehydrated because it does
not produce enough sebum to prevent the evaporation of cell moisture.

Dehydration indicates a lack of moisture in the skin. Dehydrated skin may be

flaky or dry looking, with small, fine lines and wrinkles. It may look like it has
a piece of cellophane on top of it. Dehydrated skin also may feel itchy or
tight. Dehydration can occur on almost any skin type. The key to truly alipidic
skin is the absence of visible pores.

Oily skin that produces too much sebum will have large pores, and the skin
may appear shiny or greasy. Pores may be clogged from dead cells building
up in the hair follicle or may contain open comedones (KAHM-uh-dohnz),
also known as blackheads, which are follicles impacted with solidified
sebum and dead cell buildup.

Closed comedones are hair follicles impacted with solidified sebum and
dead cell buildup that appear as small bumps just underneath the skin’s
surface.

The difference between open and closed comedones is the size of the
follicle opening, called the ostium (AH-stee-um). An open comedo has a
large ostium, and a closed comedo has a small one.
SIGNS AND CONDITIONS ASSOCIATED WITH SKIN TYPES

OILY | obvious, large pores. Open and closed comedones, clogged pores.
Shiny, thick appearance. Yellowish color. Orange peel texture.

DRY | pores very small or not visible. Tight, pore less-looking skin. May be
dehydrated with fine lines and wrinkles, dry and rough to the touch.

NORMAL | even pore distribution throughout the skin. Very soft smooth
surface. Lack of wrinkles. Normal skin is actually very unusual. Most clients
have combination skin.

COMBINATION DRY | obvious pores down center of face. Pores not visible or
becoming smaller toward the outer edges of the face. May have clogged
pores in the nose, chin, and center of the forehead. Dry, pore less toward
outside edges of the face.

COMBINATION OILY | Wider distribution of obvious or large pores down the

center of the face extending to the outer cheeks. Pores become smaller
toward edges of the face. Comedones, clogged pores, or obvious pores in
the center of the face.

ACNE | Very large pores in all areas. Acne is considered a skin type because
it is hereditary. Presence of numerous open and closed comedones, clogged
pores, and red papules and pustules (pimples).

ACNE

The presence of pimples in oily areas indicates acne. Acne is considered a

skin type because the tendency to develop acne is hereditary. Acne is a
disorder in which the hair follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of
the follicle with redness and inflammation. Acne bacteria are anaerobic,
which means they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. When follicles
are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot
readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live. Acne
bacteria survive from breaking down sebum into fatty acids, which is their
only food source. A blocked follicle is an ideal environment for acne
bacteria.
When acne bacteria flourish from the lack of oxygen and access to a food
source such as a blocked follicle filled with sebum, they multiply quickly,
eventually causing a break in the follicle wall. This rupture allows blood to
come into the follicle causing redness. Acne papules are red pimples that
do not have a pus head. Pimples with a pus head are called pustules. Pus is
a fluid inside a pustule, largely made up of dead white blood cells that tried
to fight the infection.

ANALYSIS OF SKIN CONDITIONS

Conditions of the skin are generally treatable. They are generally not
hereditary, but they may be associated with a particular skin type.

Dehydration is indicated by flaky areas or skin that wrinkles easily on the

surface. Very gently pinching the surface of dehydrated skin will result in the
visible formation of many fine lines. This is an indication of dehydration.
Dehydrated skin can be caused from lack of care, improper or over-drying
skin care products, sun exposure, and other causes. Dehydrated skin is
treated by using hydrators that help to bind water to the skin surface. These
hydrating products should be chosen based on skin type. Hydrators for
alipidic skin are generally heavier in texture. Hydrators for oilier skin are
lighter weight. Proper hydration of the skin can result in smoother-looking
and softer skin.

CAUTION

Severe or unresponsive cases of acne should be referred to a dermatologist

for treatment. If you are ever unsure about treating a client who has acne,
always refer that client to a dermatologist!

Most types of hyperpigmentation, or dark blotches of color, are caused by

sun exposure or hormone imbalances. Clients who have spent a lot of time in
the sun will often have hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation is treated with mild exfoliation and home care products

that discourage pigmentation. Daily use of sunscreen and avoidance of sun
exposure are very important for this skin type.
Sensitive skin has a thin, red-pink look. Skin will turn red easily and is easily
inflamed by some skin care products. You should avoid strong products or
cleansers, fragranced products, and strong exfoliants when treating
sensitive skin. Rosacea is a chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated
by constant or frequent facial blushing. A person with rosacea often has
dilated capillaries, telangiectasis (tel-an- jee-EK-tuh-sus), which are
distended or dilated surface blood vessels, and coupe rose (KOO-per-ohs),
which are areas of skin with distended capillaries and diffuse redness.

Rosacea is considered a medical disorder and should be diagnosed by a

dermatologist. You should treat a client who has rosacea with very gentle
products and treatments, avoiding any treatment that releases heat or
stimulates the skin.

Aging skin has loss of elasticity, and the skin tends to sag in areas around
the eyes and jawline. Wrinkles may be apparent in areas of normal facial
expression. Treatments that hydrate and exfoliate improve the appearance
of aging skin.

Sun-damaged skin is skin that has been chronically and frequently exposed
to sun over the client’s lifetime. Sun-damaged skin will have many areas of
hyperpigmentation, lots of wrinkled areas including areas not in the normal
facial expression, and sagging skin from damage to the elastic fibers. The
skin looks older than it should for the age of the client. It is often confused
with aging skin.
FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE CONDITION OF THE SKIN

Age - the skin has a thin top layer and bruises more easily due to weakened
capillaries. There are fewer collagen fibers, so the skin has less elasticity
and takes on a wrinkled appearance. The skin is also more prone to injury.

Alcohol - alcohol, along with caffeinated drinks such as coffee, tea and
fizzy drinks causes the body / skin to become dehydrated. Alcohol has a
diuretic effect on the body causing it to become dehydrated. It also
depletes the skin of vital nutrients, making it appear dull. The facial blood
capillaries dilate, and the skin often has a persistent flush. Repeated
overindulgence can cause the vessels to dilate permanently, causing red,
spidery veins.

Any pre-existing skin condition will worsen with excessive alcohol

consumption and cause flare-ups of conditions such as rosacea and
psoriasis.

Stress - the lining of the digestive tract can be aggravated by stress and
can cause many diseases such as gastritis, IBS, peptic ulcers and colitis.
Irritable bladder can develop as a direct response to stressful
events. Attacks of eczema / psoriasis may suddenly flare up during periods
of abnormal stress.

Diet / Nutrition - the skin is the first line of defense against bacteria and
viruses. Unwanted substances are eliminated through the skin. If we regard
the body as a container, then what we put into it will have an impact.

A balanced nutrition of the body is important for maintaining a healthy skin.

Neglect in this area will make the skin age considerably faster. Healthy skin
needs a good intake of carbohydrates (wholegrain, lentils, beans, rice and
vegetables), proteins from no-fatty sources such as fish, chicken, eggs,
beans, nuts and seeds, and essential fatty acids from nuts and seeds. Fruit
provides Vit C which is excellent for maintaining a healthy skin. Deficiencies
of certain nutrients, such as Vit A, B-complex, and essential fatty acids are
known to cause various forms of dermatitis and other skin conditions. Scurvy
and pellagra are skin conditions caused by vitamin deficiencies. Mild
deficiencies will impair the skin’s ability to heal and renew itself.
Ultraviolet - UVA and AVB radiation can cause skin damage such as
collagen breakdown - sunlight damages collagen fibers and causes the
accumulation of abnormal elastin, which results in wrinkles. Wrinkles are also
caused by free radical damage. Free radicals can cause cancer by
changing the genetic material - RNA and DNA - of the cell. T-lymphocytes
and specialized skin cells called Langerhans cells help to attack developing
cancer cells. When exposed to sunlight, certain chemicals are released that
suppress the activities of these cells.

Smoking - causes the blood capillaries in the epidermis to narrow. The

decreases blood flow to the skin prevents oxygen and other vital nutrients
from reaching the skin cells. Smoking also damages the connective fibers
collagen and elastin in the skin, which accelerates wrinkling and sagging.

Smoking also increases the production of an enzyme which breaks down the
body’s supply of collagen. It also reduces the body’s store of Vit A which
provides protection from skin damage. It also prevents the absorption of Vit
C – a vital antioxidant for skin protection and health.

Smoker’s skin has a dull and grey appearance. Deeper-set wrinkles around
the eyes and mouth are due to continual puckering from drawing on a
cigarette and squinting in reaction to cigarette smoke getting in the eyes.
These are classic signs of ‘smokers face ‘

Climate– Being exposed to varying climates can also play havoc with the
skin. Colder temperatures often have low humidity causing the skin to
become dry. Biting winds can also strip moisture from exposed skins. During
the winter months, skin can become red, rough, crack, peel and even feel
tight because of dryness. Conditions such as eczema can flare up during dry
weather.

In warmer climates the sebaceous glands are more active, and increased
heat and humidity can cause the skin to sweat, leaving it more prone to
breakouts of spots, especially if the skin is oily. Hot weather can also cause
heat rash, which will occur when sweat glands become blocked and the
trapped moisture / sweat under the skin cannot be excreted.
 SKIN TYPES REFERENCE SHEET

DRY SKIN

Skin usually feels tight, rough and uncomfortable especially after washing or
shaving
Tends to look dull and thin with an uneven texture.
Vulnerable to flaking, scaling and peeling.
Pores on your face are small in size

OILY SKIN

Skin tends to be shiny and greasy

Prone to blemishes, blackheads and pimples
Skin looks thick and firm
Pores are medium to large in size and often clogged with dirt

NORMAL/BALANCED SKIN

Skin is well-balanced and is neither oily nor dry

Feels smooth and looks moderately thick and even in texture
Rarely suffers from blemishes, blackheads or skin outbreaks
Pores are relatively small and not clogged with dirt

COMBINATION SKIN

Skin is a combination of oily and dry skin

Usually characterized by an oily T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) and drier
cheeks and eyes
T-zone tends to be prone to spots and blemishes

SENSITIVE SKIN

Skin is easily irritated and tends to burn in the sun

Has moderate to severe reactions when exposed to heat, wind, weather,
certain fabrics or fragrances
Often red, blotchy, dry and itchy

MATURE SKIN
There are many fine lines and deep wrinkles with uneven skin pigmentation.
Liver spots / moles / warts are evident.
Sagging skin in all areas with dark under-eye circles.

YOUNG SKIN
Oily with excessive sebum production
White-coloured blockage (or whiteheads) can be seen
Blackheads
Formation of acne flaring up during the menstrual cycle
CONTRAINDICATIONS
ISOTRETINOIN (Accutane) | SKIN CAN BLISTER OR PEEL OFF
all waxing anywhere on the body
any peeling agent or drying agent, including alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
scrubs, microdermabrasion and brushing machines

EXFOLIATING DRUGS INCLUDING RETIN- A®(TRETINOIN) RENOVA®,

TAZORAC®, DIFFERIN® | SKIN CAN BLISTER OR PEEL OFF

all waxing on the area where the drug is used

any peeling agent or drying agent, including AHAs, scrubs,
microdermabrasion, and brushing machines

PREGNANCY | UNKNOWN; GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTION

electrical treatments
any questionable treatment without a physician’s written permission
possible sensitivities from waxing

METAL BONE PINS OR PLATES IN THE BODY | ELECTRICITY CAN POSSIBLY

AFFECT METAL

electrical treatments

HEART CONDITIONS/ PACEMAKER | ELECTRICITY CAN POSSIBLY AFFECT

RHYTHMS AND PACEMAKERS

electrical treatments

KNOWN ALLERGIES | ALLERGIC REACTION CAN OCCUR

avoid known allergens, fragrances

SEIZURES OR EPILEPSY | COULD TRIGGER SEIZURE REACTION

electrical or light treatments

USE OF ORAL STEROIDS SUCH AS PREDNISONE | STEROIDS CAN CAUSE

USE OF ORAL STEROIDS SUCH AS PREDNISONE | STEROIDS CAN CAUSE
THINNING OF THE SKIN WHICH COULD RESULT IN BLISTERING OR INJURY

any stimulating or exfoliating treatment

waxing

AUTOIMMUNE DISEASES SUCH AS LUPUS | UNPREDICTABLE REACTIONS IN

SOME CASES

harsh or stimulating treatments without specific physician permission

DIABETES | NON-SPECIFIC

general caution advised (many diabetics heal very slowly; obtain

physician approval if you are unsure)

BLOOD THINNERS | MAY CAUSE BLEEDING OR BRUISING

extraction without physician permission

facial or body waxing without physician permission

SENSITIVE, REDNESS-PRONE SKIN | CAN AGGRAVATE REDNESS

heat
harsh scrubs
mechanical treatment
stimulating massage

OPEN SORES, HERPES SIMPLEX (COLD SORES) | CAN SPREAD OR FLARE,

INFECTIOUS DISEASE

avoid all treatments until clear with doctor

RECENT FACIAL SURGERY OR LASER TREATMENT | TREAT WITH PHYSICIAN’S

PERMISSION ONLY

treat with physician’s permission only

When the client completes the health screening form, you can obtain
important information such as the following:

Client’s name, address, and phone number(s)

Client’s occupation
Medical conditions that might affect treatment
All medications being used, including topical drugs for the skin
Current home skin-care program and salon skin-care history
Information regarding how the client heard about you and your services

TREATMENT RECORDS

You should record and highlight with a colored pen any important
observations or contraindications in the client’s treatment record. File the
health screening forms in a secure filing cabinet because the client may
have revealed information that is private. The client treatment record should
include the client’s name, address, and phone numbers. It should also have
spaces to allow for recording the results of the analysis, each treatment
performed on the client’s skin, your observations on each visit, any home-
care products purchased by the client, and the date of each treatment or
product purchase. Recording product purchases will help you find products
when a client wants to re-purchase but has forgotten the product name.

BUILDING YOUR CLIENT BASE

It is useful to note on the client intake or health screening form how the
client was referred to the salon. This helps you determine the type of
advertising that draws your clients. If the referral has come from another
salon client, be sure to thank the referring client. This small courtesy can well
lead to other valuable referrals.
 CLIENT
CONSULTATIONS
Your consultations can take many forms such as over the phone, in person,
or over the computer. There is one key component to remember which is
visually seeing the area you will be working on either in person or with an
up-to-date photograph.

It is your job as the trained professional to provide them with a proper

estimation and quote. The more realistic the quoting, the higher the client
satisfaction, and the higher the chance you will have continued clientele.

As you have your consultation with your client, you will need to have a client
intake form to go over with them. This intake form is to go over their history,
any reasons why they cannot have the procedures (also known as
contraindications), the minimal risks involved, and to understand what
procedure they want done.

HEALTH SCREENING FORM

Before beginning the analysis, you must have the client fill out a health
screening form. Similar to the form used for other cosmetology treatments, the
main purpose of the health screening form is to determine whether the client
has any contraindications that might prohibit certain skin treatments.

A contraindication (Kahn-trah-in-dih-KAY-shun) is a condition that requires

avoiding certain treatments, procedures or products to prevent undesirable
side effects. For example, if the client is allergic to fragrance, using a
fragranced product would be contraindicated. If a client is using a prescription
drug, such as Retin-A® or Tazorac® (both topical drugs that cause skin
exfoliation), using other exfoliants in the facial treatment is contraindicated
because to do so may injure the skin by causing excessive peeling and
inflammation.

Isotretinoin (Accutane), an oral medication for cystic acne, causes thinning of

the skin all over the body.
Waxing, stimulating treatments, or exfoliation procedures should never be
performed on the skin of someone using isotretinoin or someone who has used
the drug in the last six months. Because isotretinoin is an oral drug, it stays in
the body for several months after the client stops taking it.

The main contraindications to look for are summarized below:

Use of isotretinoin or any skin-thinning or exfoliating drug, including

Retin-A®, Renova®, Tazorac®, Differin®, and so on: Avoid waxing,
exfoliation and/or peeling treatments, and stimulating treatments.
Pregnancy: Avoid all electrical treatments and any other questionable
treatments without a physician’s written permission. Some pregnant clients
also experience sensitivities from waxing.
Metal bone pins or plates in the body: Avoid all electrical treatment.
Pacemakers or heart irregularities: Avoid all electrical treatment.
Allergies: Strictly avoid any allergic substances listed on the intake form.

Clients with multiple allergies should always use non-fragranced products

designed for sensitive skin. Food allergies should also be noted, because many
skin care products now contain naturally derived food-based extracts such as
soy, nut oils, and other ingredients.

Seizures or epilepsy: Avoid all electrical and light treatments.

Use of oral steroids such as prednisone: Avoid any stimulating or
exfoliating treatment or waxing. Steroids can cause thinning of the skin
which could result in blistering or injury.
Autoimmune diseases such as lupus: Avoid any harsh or stimulating
treatments.
Diabetes: Be aware that many diabetics heal very slowly. If you have
questions, you should get approval from the client’s physician before
treatment. The primary services that need approval are waxing, electrolysis,
or any treatment for the feet.
Blood thinners: No extraction or waxing. To do so may cause bleeding or
bruising.
CAUTION

As a cosmetology student, you should receive hands-on training from your

instructor before attempting any of the procedures discussed in this chapter.

Clients who have obvious skin abnormalities, such as open sores, fever blisters
(herpes simplex), or other abnormal-looking signs should be referred to a
physician for treatment. They can be rescheduled after they obtain written
approval of facial services.

Should you ever have any questions regarding a client’s treatment and his or
her health conditions, always check with the client’s doctor first! Remember
one simple rule: When in doubt, don’t perform the service.
CONSULTATION STEPS

1. Check client’s suitability for treatment using the list of contraindications.

2. Carry out a skin analysis pinpointing any areas to avoid during treatment
i.e., minor contraindications such as Telangiectasia (broken capillaries).

3. Pinpoint areas that require special attention such as acne scarring or

pigmentation, open pores or uneven skin tone.

4. Suggest a treatment plan making sure you explain the cost, duration and
frequency required for the course.

5. Explain to the client what the treatment will do and how it will feel.

6. Explain to the client how the skin might react. Although reactions if any
are very minor, make sure clients are aware there may be some sensitivity.

7. Talk the client through the aftercare advice so they are aware of what
they should be doing post-procedure to look after their skin.

8. It is vital the client understands the importance of using the correct home
regime in between treatments and is committed to achieving results i.e.,
using the correct sun protection factors are crucial to avoid further
pigmentation problems.

9. Always Complete A Client Record Card: This will ensure special attention
is drawn to their specific needs. Explain contraindications of treatment and
ask the client to sign the record card.

10. Parents/Guardians (Over 18) Must Sign The Consultation Card For
Children Under 16 Years Of Age
 SKIN CARE
PRODUCTS
There are many, many types of skin care products available for salon use and
for the client’s home care. Most skin care products are designed for specific
skin types or conditions. Major categories of skin care products are described
below.

SELECT THE CORRECT FACIAL PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CLIENT

The choice of massage media is important to provide an effective service. It is

determined by the client’s skin type, whether they have normal, dry, greasy or a
combination skin.

EYE MAKEUP REMOVER

This is a very gentle product, finer than a cleanser to remove make up from the
delicate eye area. It can be in the form of lotions, creams and wash off gels.
There are also products to remove waterproof mascara.

CLEANSING

Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products.
They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care
measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and
applications. For example – creams, lotions, milks, facial washes and gels.

The aim of cleansing is to remove:

Surface dirt
All make-up
The top layer of dead skin cells
Potentially harmful microorganisms (bacteria)
Sweat and sebum from the skin

It is recommended to cleanse morning and night.

Cleansers are designed to clean the surface of the skin and to remove
makeup. There are basically two types of cleansers: cleansing milks and
foaming cleansers.

Cleansing milks are non-foaming lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry

and sensitive skin types and to remove makeup. They can be applied with
the hands or an implement, but they must be removed with a dampened
facial sponge, soft cloth, or cotton pad. Ingredients are sometimes added to
cleansing milks to make them more specific to a given skin type.

Foaming cleansers are cleansers containing surfactants (detergents) which

cause the product to foam and rinse off easily. These products are generally
for combination or oilier skin types, although there are some rinse-off
cleansers for dry and sensitive skin. Clients love using these products
because they may be used quickly and easily in the shower. They have
varying amounts of detergent ingredients to treat specific levels of oiliness.
Foaming cleansers, like cleansing milks, may have special ingredients to
make them more specific for certain skin types. Some have antibacterial
ingredients for acne-prone skin.

TONING

Toners come in the forms of lotions, astringents, skin tonics, bracers and
fresheners.

The aim of toning is to:

Eliminates any traces of remaining cleanser from the skin

tighten the skin
stimulates the circulation

It is recommended to tone morning and night.

Toners, also known as fresheners or astringents, are lotions that help

rebalance the pH and remove remnants of cleanser from the skin. They may
also contain ingredients that help to hydrate or soothe, and they may
sometimes contain an exfoliating ingredient to help remove dead cells.
Fresheners and astringents are usually stronger products, often with higher
alcohol content, and are used to treat oilier skin types.
Toning products are applied with cotton pads after cleansing. Some
alcohol-free toners can be sprayed onto the face.

EYE CREAMS

This is used around the delicate eye area. There are many different benefits
of the cream for example, anti-wrinkle, hydrating, reducing puffiness,
soothing and refreshing. It is recommended to use day and evening.

MOISTURIZERS

Moisturizing ensures that the skin is smooth and supple. The skin on the face
gets dry easily because of the weather. Moisturizing forms a film over the
skin and helps in containing the natural moisture of the skin. They can come
in forms of creams or milk. It is recommended to use a day cream in the
mornings and a night cream in the evening. Night creams are an absorbent
intensive rich cream which restores the skin’s well-being without leaving the
skin feeling oily.

Moisturizers are products that help increase the moisture content of the skin
surface. Moisturizers help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
They are basically mixtures of humectants (hyoo-MEKK- tents), also known as
hydrators or water-binding agents, which are ingredients that attract water
and emollients (ee-MAHL-yunts), which are oily or fatty ingredients that
prevent moisture from leaving the skin.

Moisturizers for oily skin are most often in lotion form and generally contain
smaller amounts of emollient.

Oilier skin does not need as much emollient because oily skin produces more
than adequate amounts of protective sebum.

Moisturizers for dry skin are often in the form of a heavier cream, and they
contain more emollients, which are needed by alipidic skin. All moisturizers
may have other ingredients that perform additional functions.

These ingredients may include soothing agents for sensitive skin, AHAs or
peptides for aging skin, or sunscreens.
Night treatments are usually more intensive products designed for use at
night to treat specific skin problems. These products are generally heavier
than day-use products, and they theoretically contain higher levels of
conditioning ingredients.

Serums (SEH-rums) are concentrated products that generally contain higher

concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate the skin and treat
various skin conditions (Figure 23–8). They are typically used at home, and
they are applied under a moisturizer or sunscreen. Ampoules (am-pyools) are
individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials.

Massage creams are lubricants used to make the skin slippery during
massage. They often contain oils or petrolatum. If a massage cream is used
during a facial treatment, it must be thoroughly removed before any other
product can penetrate the skin.

There is a trend toward using treatment products that penetrate the skin
during massage. For example, treatment products may be used to increase
skin hydration or to soothe redness-prone skin. One of the biggest benefits
of massage is that it increases product absorption which, in turn, increases
the conditioning effect of treatment products.

DID YOU KNOW

A valuable ingredient in moisturizers, particularly in day creams, is

sunscreen. Not only does sunscreen guard against premature aging of the
skin, but also, when used consistently, it is one of the best ways to help
prevent skin cancer

SUNSCREENS AND DAY PROTECTION PRODUCTS

Shielding the skin from sun exposure is probably the most important habit to
benefit the skin. Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin
cancers and prematurely ages the skin. Most sun exposure over a lifetime is
from casual sun exposure. Therefore, every client should be instructed to use
a daily sunscreen. Look for daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum
sunscreens, which protect against both UVA and UVB light.
A sun protection factor (SPF) rating of 15 or higher is considered to be
adequate strength for daily use. SPF measures how long someone can be
exposed to the sun without burning. For example, if someone normally burns
in an hour, an SPF-2 sunscreen allows the person to stay in the sun two
times as long without burning. Sunscreens with higher SPF’s are appropriate
for extended outdoor exposure and for sun-sensitive individuals

Sunscreens are available in lotion, fluid, and cream forms. Lotions are
suitable for combination skin, fluids for oily skin, and creams for dry skin.

CAUTION

Certain skin conditions can be easily inflamed by mechanical exfoliation.

Also, certain medications may thin the skin, making it more susceptible to
inflammation, bruising, or blistering. Do not use brushing machines, scrubs,
or any harsh mechanical peeling techniques on the following skin types and
conditions:

Skin with many visible capillaries

Thin skin that reddens easily
Older skin that is thin and bruises easily or the skin of persons using
blood thinning medications
Skin being medically treated with tretinoin (retinoic acid or Retin-A®),
isotretinoin, azelaic acid, adapalene (Differin®), AHA, or salicylic acid
(found in many common skin products)
Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules
EXFOLIATION

Exfoliating involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin's
outermost surface; this aids cell renewal and leaves the skin feeling very
smooth and soft. This can be performed using a cleanser and a brush, facial
scrubs and peels. It is recommended to exfoliate once a week.

Exfoliants (ex-FO-lee-yahnts) are products that help bring about exfoliation

(eks-foh-lee-AY-shun), the removal of excess dead cells from the skin
surface. Removing dead cells from the surface of the skin allows the skin to
look smoother and clearer.

Exfoliants help clear the skin of clogged pores and can improve the
appearance of wrinkles, aging, and hyperpigmentation. Cosmetology
professionals may use products that remove dead surface cells from the
stratum corneum. Deeper, surgical-level peels must only be administered by
dermatologists and plastic surgeons.

Exfoliation may be accomplished by using mechanical exfoliants or chemical

exfoliants. Mechanical exfoliants are products used to physically remove
dead cell build-up. Gommages (go-mah-jez), also known as roll-off masks,
are peeling creams that are rubbed off of the skin, and microdermabrasion
scrubs, scrubs that contain aluminum oxide crystals, along with other
granular scrubs, are examples of mechanical exfoliants. Microdermabrasion
can also be used as a machine treatment, which is briefly discussed later in
this chapter. Skin-brushing machines are another example of mechanical
exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliants are products that contain chemicals that either loosen
or dissolve dead cell build-up. They are either used for a short time
(although some may be worn as a day or night treatment) or combined in a
moisturizer. Popular exfoliating chemicals are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
(AL-fah hy-DRAHKS-ee AS-uds); these are gentle, naturally occurring acids
that remove dead skin cells by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement
between cells. As dead cells are removed from the surface over time,
wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations may fade, clogged pores are
loosened and reduced, new clogged pores are prevented, and skin is
smoother and more hydrated.
These acids encourage cell renewal, resulting in firmer and healthier-looking
skin.

Salon AHA exfoliants, also known as peels, contain larger concentrations of

AHA, usually around 20 to 30 percent. They should never be used unless the
client has been using 10 percent AHA products at home for at least two
weeks prior to the higher concentration salon treatment and using a daily
facial sunscreen product.

Enzyme peels (EN-zym PEELS), also known as keratolytic (kair- uh-tuh-LIT-ik)

enzymes or protein-dissolving agents, are a type of chemical exfoliant that
works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin. Usually,
enzyme products are made using plant-extracted enzymes from papaya
(resulting in an enzyme known as papain, pronounced pa-PAIN) or pineapple
(resulting in an enzyme known as bromelain, pronounced bro-ma-LAIN), or
they are made from an enzyme derived from beef by-products (resulting in
an enzyme known as pancreatin, pronounced pan-cree- at-tin). Enzymes
sometimes are blended into scrubs or wearable products, but they are most
often designed for use in the salon.

There are two basic types of keratolytic enzyme peels. The first are cream-
type enzyme peels (gommage) that usually contain papain. They are applied
to the skin and allowed to dry for a few minutes. They form a crust, which is
then rolled off the skin.

The second and most popular type of enzyme peel is a powder that is mixed
with water in the treatment room and applied to the face. This type of
enzyme treatment does not dry the skin and can even be used during a
steam treatment.

Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the following
ways:

Reduces clogged pores and skin oiliness

Increases moisture content and hydration
Promotes skin smoothness
Reduces hyperpigmentation
Decreases uneven skin color
 Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines
Increases elasticity

In addition, proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover and allows for better
penetration of treatment creams and serums. Makeup applies more evenly
on exfoliated skin.

CAUTION

Over-exfoliation of the skin can result in ultrasensitive and inflamed skin.

Never use an exfoliant more often than recommended by the manufacturer.
Combining more than one type of exfoliation may lead to irritation. Always
carefully advise your client on the proper use of a home care exfoliant,
including the need for the use of a daily sunscreen with an SPF of at least
15.

ABOUT EXFOLIATION

Why exfoliate the skin? The skin is constantly generating new skin cells at the
lower layer of the epidermis and sending them to the surface of the skin. As
the cells rise to the surface they gradually die and become filled with
keratin. These keratinized (hardened) skin cells are essential because they
give our skin its protective quality.

As we age the process of cell turnover slows down. Cells start to pile up
unevenly on the skin’s surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance.
Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on,
revealing the fresher, younger skin cells below.

HOW IS EXFOLIATION DONE?

The dead skin cells are physically rubbed off with an abrasive. On the face,
mechanical exfoliation ranges from scrubs using small, round, gentle
abrasives like jojoba beads.
FACIAL MASKS

Masks, also known as masques, are concentrated treatment products often

composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners,
aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts and other beneficial ingredients to
cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin.

Clay-based masks are oil-absorbing cleansing masks that have an

exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin,
making large pores temporarily appear smaller. They may have additional
beneficial ingredients for soothing, or they may include antibacterial
ingredients like Sulphur, which is helpful for acne-prone skin.

Cream masks are masks often containing oils and emollients as well as
humectants, and they have a strong moisturizing effect. They do not dry on
the skin like clay masks do, and they are often used to moisturize dry skin.

Gel masks can be used for sensitive or dehydrated skin, and they do not dry
hard. They often contain hydrators and soothing ingredients, thus helping to
plump surface cells with moisture, making the skin look more supple and
more hydrated.

Alginate (al-gin-ate) masks are often seaweed based. They come in a

powder form and are mixed with water or, sometime, serums. After mixing,
they are quickly applied to the face. They dry to form a rubberized texture. A
treatment cream, which is a specialty product designed to facilitate change
in the skin’s appearance, or a serum is generally applied under alginate
masks. The alginate mask forms a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption
of the serum or treatment cream underneath. Alginate masks are generally
used only in the salon.

Paraffin wax masks are specially prepared facial masks containing paraffin
and other beneficial ingredients. They are melted at a little more than body
temperature before application. The paraffin quickly cools to a lukewarm
temperature and hardens to a candle-like consistency. Paraffin masks are
applied over a treatment cream to allow the cream’s ingredients to
penetrate more deeply into the surface layers of the skin.
Eye pads and gauze are used in a paraffin mask application because facial
hair could stick to the wax if it is not covered, making the mask difficult and
painful to remove.

Modelage (mod-a-LAHJ) masks contain special crystals of gypsum, a

plaster-like ingredient. As with paraffin masks, Modelage masks are used
with a treatment cream. Modelage masks are mixed with cold water
immediately before application and applied about 1⁄4-inch thick. After
application, the Modelage mask hardens. The chemical reaction that occurs
when the plaster and the crystals mix with water produces a gradual
increase in temperature that reaches approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the mask is left on the skin, the temperature gradually cools, until it has
cooled down completely. The setting time for Modelage masks is
approximately twenty minutes. Modelage masks sometimes vary in mixing
technique or timing.

Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the product you are using.

The heat generated by a Modelage mask increases blood circulation and is

very beneficial for dry, mature skin or for skin that looks dull and lifeless. This
type of mask is not recommended for use on sensitive skin, skin with capillary
problems, oily skin, or skin with blemishes. Modelage masks can become
quite heavy on the face and should not be applied to the lower neck. These
masks should never be used on clients who suffer from claustrophobia, which
is a fear of being closed in or confined.

MASKS

Facial mask is a product applied to clean and smooth the skin. It often
contains minerals, vitamins and fruit extracts, such as cactus and cucumber.
There are different kinds of masks for different purposes; some are deep
cleansing for cleaning the pores. The perceived effect of a facial mask
treatment can be revitalizing, rejuvenating or refreshing.

Some masks are removed with warm water and sponges; others are peeled
off by hand. Duration for wearing a mask depends on the type of mask but
needs to be considered when planning your treatment time.
Facial masks should be selected according to skin type. Clay and mud masks
suit oily skin; cream-based masks work best on dry skin types.

The main benefits of mask are:

Deeply cleansing
Moisturizes
Leaves the skin smooth and soft
Enhances skin elasticity
Revitalizing
Rejuvenating

But before any massage takes place the client’s face should be cleansed
and if needed, exfoliated, to remove any build-up of dead skin cells from the
surface of the skin.

THE USE OF GAUZE FOR MASK APPLICATION

Gauze is a thin, open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton. Masks that

have a tendency to run can be applied over a layer of gauze. The gauze
holds the mask on the face, while allowing the ingredients to seep through
to benefit the skin.

Cheesecloth is sometimes used as well. In some cases, it is necessary to

apply a second layer of gauze over the mask to keep the ingredients from
sliding off. Gauze is also used to keep paraffin and gypsum/plaster masks
from sticking to the skin and the tiny hairs on the skin. To prepare gauze, cut
a piece large enough to cover the entire face and neck. Cut out spaces for
the eyes, nose, and mouth. Although the client could breathe through the
gauze, the cut-out spaces will make breathing more comfortable for the
client.
 FACIAL MASSAGE
TECHNIQUES

Massage is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing,

gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase
metabolism and circulation, to promote absorption, and to relieve pain.

Cosmetologists massage their clients to help keep the facial skin healthy and
the facial muscles firm.
To master massage techniques, you must have a basic knowledge of anatomy
and physiology, as well as considerable practice in performing the various
movements. It is important that you use a firm, sure touch when giving a
massage. To do this, you must develop flexible hands, a quiet temperament,
and self-control.

Keep your hands soft by using creams, oils, and lotions. File and shape your
nails to avoid scratching your client’s skin. Your wrists and fingers should be
flexible, and your palms should be firm and warm. Cream or oil should be
applied to your hands to permit smoother and gentler hand movements and to
prevent drag or damage to the client’s skin.
BASIC MASSAGE MANIPULATIONS

All massage treatments combine one or more basic

movements or manipulations. Each manipulation is
applied to the superficial muscles in a certain way to
achieve a certain end. The impact of a massage
treatment depends on the amount of pressure, the
direction of movement, and the duration of each type of
manipulation involved.

The direction of movement is always from the insertion of

the muscle toward its origin. The insertion is the portion
of the muscle at the more movable attachment (where it
is attached to another muscle or to a movable bone or
joint). The origin is the portion of the muscle at the fixed
attachment (to an immovable section of the skeleton).
Massaging a muscle in the wrong direction could result
in a loss of resiliency and sagging of the skin and
muscles

EFFLEURAGE

The word comes from the French verb ‘effleurer’ which

means to stroke or to glide. Effleurage is a sweeping,
stroking movement. It is an introductory stroke that is
performed at the beginning of a massage sequence,
and often at the end of it as well. But it can also be used
as a connecting or link movement at any point during the
massage procedure. The strokes are long and flowing,
and generally cover as large an area of skin as possible.
This type of stroke enables the therapist to become
familiar with the client’s skin, the client to become aware
of the therapist’s touch, and the underlying muscles and
tissues to be sensitized. It also facilitates the application
of a massage medium to the area.

The effleurage stroke is smooth and flowing, following

the contours of the skin, as if the therapist’s hands are
molded to the area of skin they are working over.
Most commonly, the palmar surfaces of both hands are used, but one hand,
thumbs, or fingers may work better on smaller areas.

Effleurage strokes follow the venous and lymphatic flow and so will affect the
flow of blood and lymph in the vessels. The firmer effleurage stroke is always
towards the heart, and the hands maintain contact on the return of the
stroke but apply little pressure.

Effleurage may be applied superficially or deeply and is usually applied

slowly. In order to perform effleurage effectively, the therapist’s wrists need
to be flexible and the hands relaxed.

The fingers should be relaxed and held closely together, and the thumbs should
also be relaxed and abducted.
Effleurage – Step Up

With your middle finger on the side

of the nose, use the pads of your
index finger to apply slight
pressure, “stepping up” the bridge
of the nose to the corrugator.

Effleurage-Figure 8

Place the thumb of one hand on

the center of client’s forehead.
With index finger of other hand
make a large “Figure 8” around the
eyes. Repeat three times. Switch
hands and repeat entire process.

Effleurage-2 Circles

Circle the eyes once. Cross over

right eyebrow to temple. Make
second circle around the forehead.
Repeat the two-step procedure
twice.
Effleurage Full Circle

Using the middle fingers of both

hands, circle the client’s face, first
moving down towards the chin,
then outward and upward onto the
cheeks. Your fingers should go
outside the eyebrows, with your
hands meeting at the center of the
forehead. Repeat twice, ending
with fingers at the chin.

Effleurage

Using middle fingers, perform

circular movements around the
eyes. Repeat 3 to 5 times.

Effleurage

Transition hands by gently moving

fingers back to the cheeks using
circular movements. Move up the
bridge of the nose, then around
eyes.
Effleurage is used at the beginning and end of the massage routine and is also
known as the linking movement.

The uses of the effleurage movement are as follows:

To introduce the therapist’s hands to the client’s body

To apply the medium to the client’s skin
To begin the routine
To link movements together
To complete the routine

The benefits and effects of effleurage:

It has a soothing effect on the nerves thus inducing relaxation.

It provides continuity and flow during a massage and provides a link to
other manipulations.
Increases both blood and lymphatic circulation.
Helps to spread the massage medium.
Aids tension relief, by relaxing contracted and tense muscles.
Aids the removal of dead skin cells (desquamation).
Helps to reduce non-medical oedema which can be the result of poor
circulation and tiredness.
Warms the tissues, helping to prepare them for deeper strokes.
Soothes areas that are too sore or painful for deeper work.

Effleurage (EF-loo-rahzh) is a light, continuous stroking movement applied in a

slow, rhythmic manner with the fingers (digital effleurage) or the palms (palmar
effleurage). No pressure is used. The palms work the large surfaces, and the
cushions of the fingertips work the small surfaces, such as those around the
eyes.

Effleurage is frequently used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder,

neck, chest, arms, and hands for its soothing and relaxing effects. Every
massage should begin and end with effleurage.

As a cosmetologist, your services are limited to certain areas of the body: the
scalp, face, neck, and shoulders; the upper chest; the hands and arms; and the
feet and lower legs.
Therapeutic massage—including deep muscle massage, deep tissue massage,
and lymph drainage— should only be performed by therapists specialized in
working on various kinds of tissues. Therapeutic massage requires special
training and, in many cases, licensure.

When performing effleurage, hold your whole hand loosely, and keep your wrist
and fingers flexible. Curve your fingers slightly to conform to the shape of the
area being massaged, with just the cushions of the fingertips touching the skin.
Do not use the ends of the fingertips. They are pointier than the cushions and
will cause the effleurage to be less smooth. Also, the free edges of your
fingernails may scratch the client’s skin.

Stroking also comes under the heading of effleurage. The difference between
effleurage and stroking is that stroking can be performed in any direction and
the hands may lift off the skin.

Feathering is an extremely light stroke and is barely perceivable by the person

who is receiving the massage but has a profoundly soothing effect.

Effleurage

Using you full fingers, stroke

downwards from the chin line
down through the shoulders.
PETRISSAGE (OR COMPRESSIONS)

The word petrissage comes from the French word ‘petrir’ which means to
knead. These strokes are much deeper than effleurage strokes, and are usually
applied with the thumbs, fingers or heels of the hands. These movements firmly
pick up and lift the tissues from the underlying structures and then release,
resulting in an intermittent pressure.

Petrissage movements help to:

Aid in the elimination of waste products.

Break down adipose tissue.
Act as a decongestant.
Release muscular tension, fatigue and stiffness.
Breakdown adhesions.
Aid relaxation.
Pétrissage (PEH-treh-sahj) is a kneading movement performed by lifting,
squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm pressure. Pétrissage offers
deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves, and skin glands, and improves
circulation. These kneading movements are usually limited to the back,
shoulders, and arms.

Although typically used on larger surface areas such as the arms and
shoulders, digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching
movements. The pressure should be light but firm. When grasping and releasing
the fleshy parts, the movements must be rhythmic and never jerky.

Fulling is a form of Pétrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and
spread out; this technique is used mainly for massaging the arms. With the
fingers of both hands grasping the arm, apply a kneading movement across
the flesh, with light pressure on the underside of the client’s forearm and
between the shoulder and elbow. Petrissage movements include kneading,
picking up, wringing and rolling.
KNEADING

Kneading is a circular movement where the hand moves the skin on the deeper
tissues. The hands do not move over the skin except to move to the next part to
be treated. This technique can be performed in several ways i.e., by using both
hands, one hand or just part of the hand (double-handed, single-handed or
palmar kneading).

Pressure is applied firmly in the upward part of the circle and then released.
This ensures that the pressure is applied in the direction of the venous return to
the heart and lymphatic drainage to the lymph nodes.

Knead cheeks and along the jaw down the platysma. On the back of neck,
continue with tapotement, rolling, and pinching downwards from base of neck
to base of shoulders.
Using knuckles in circular movements, apply light pressure on the cheeks
and jaw to help improve circulation.
The pressure can be increased by the use of body weight and care must be
taken to avoid pinching the skin at the end of the strokes. The benefits and
effects of kneading:

Compression and relaxation of the muscle tissue causes the blood and
lymphatic vessels to be stimulated, thereby increasing the circulation and
hastening the removal of waste products, including urea.
An improved blood supply accelerates the removal of lactic acid and
carbon dioxide, helping to relieve muscle fatigue, soreness, stiffness and
tension.
It relaxes hard, contracted muscles and helps to loosen adhesions.
It can help to maintain tone and elasticity of muscle tissue due to an
increased blood supply.
Can help to breakdown adipose tissue.
PICKING UP - PINCH AND ROLL

Picking Up is a manipulation where the tissues are lifted away from the bone,
squeezed and released before moving on. It can be performed with one or
both hands depending on the area to be massaged. The technique is to grasp
the muscle with the whole hand with the thumb abducted. The muscle is lifted
away from the underlying structure, squeezed and then released. The other
hand then picks up a different part and the movement is repeated along the
length of the muscle. It is important to ensure that contact is not broken
between movements and that the palm of the hand is in contact with the
muscle to avoid pinching.

The benefits and effects of picking up:

It stimulates blood and lymphatic flow.

It improves elasticity and stretches tight muscle fibers and so is especially
useful before and after exercise.
It helps to soften hard, subcutaneous fatty tissue.
WRINGING

Wringing is a petrissage movement similar to picking up. The tissues are

compressed and picked up from the bone as in picking up, but instead of then
being released they are passed from hand to hand in a wringing movement.
The tissue is grasped and stretched.

Wringing is always performed with both hands. The arms must be held well out
to the sides, with elbows bent. Muscle and superficial tissue is compressed and
scooped up between the fingers and thumb of each hand, and then the fingers
of one hand pull the tissue towards you, while the thumb of the other hands
pushes it away. The hands move along the length of the muscle, wringing as
they go. Keep the fingers and thumbs straight, so that they do not dig in.

The benefits and effects of wringing:

To improve elasticity by stretching along the length of the muscle.

To soften hard, subcutaneous tissue.
To improve local circulation.
ROLLING

Hands are firmly on the area and the superficial tissues are grasped between
the fingers and thumbs and gently rolled backwards and forwards against the
thumbs and fingers.
FRICTION

The term comes from the Latin word ‘frictio’, meaning to rub. Frictions are very
localized manipulations performed with the fingers or thumbs over small areas.
They may be applied transversely across muscle fibers or in a circular
movement. They are deep movements performed with a lot of pressure. With
transverse frictions the pressure is selected at the outset and kept constant
throughout. With circular frictions the pressure may get progressively deeper.
The pressure must, however, be completely released before moving on to a
new area.

Frictions are often performed on dry skin, free from oil, so that the fingers move
the skin and do not slip over it. The stroke is not to be confused with digital or
thumb kneading, which apply constant upward pressure using a circular
movement. This is done with the cushion part of the fingers or the palm of the
hand. Friction is always followed by effleurage, which soothes the area, and is
ideal for removing toxins and loosening hardened tissue around joints and
tendons. It is extremely useful carried out in circular motions, usually clockwise,
with several circular motions being used before the thumb is moved on to
another area. Friction is carried out using a firm movement and moves the skin
over the underlying tissue.

The benefits and effects of frictions:

Increases blood and lymph circulation and dilates the capillaries.

Softens and stretches the fascia and breaks down adipose tissue.
Breaks down adhesions and nodules and scar tissue.
Helps improve the function of ligaments and joints that it is performed
over.
Has an invigorating effect through the stimulation of nerves.
Aids interchange of tissue fluids, and elimination of waste products.
Aids in relaxation
Releases harmful toxins which may have built up in the body
Loosens hardened tissues around joints and tendons.
Breaks down and removes unwanted deposits

Friction (FRIK-shun) is a deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on

the skin with your fingers or palm while moving it over an underlying structure.
Friction has been known to have a significant benefit on the circulation and
glandular activity of the skin.
Circular friction movements are
typically used on the scalp, arms,
and hands.

Light circular friction is used on the

face and neck.

Chucking, rolling, and wringing are

variations of friction and are used
mainly to massage the arms and
legs, as follows:

Chucking is grasping the flesh

firmly in one hand and moving
the hand up and down along the
bone while the other hand keeps
the arm or leg in a steady
position.
Rolling is pressing and twisting
the tissues with a fast back-
and-forth movement.
Wringing is a vigorous movement
in which the hands, placed a
little distance apart on both
sides of the client’s arm or leg
and working downward, apply a
twisting motion against the
bones in the opposite direction.
VIBRATION

Vibration (vy-BRAY-shun) is a rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of
the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application. The movement is
accomplished by rapid muscular contractions in your arms. It is a highly
relaxing movement and should be applied at the end of the massage. Deep
vibration in combination with other classical massage movements can also be
produced by the use of a mechanical vibrator to stimulate blood circulation
and increase muscle tone.

This movement involves producing a fine tremor or shaking in the tissues. The
effects are produced by the therapist vibrating the hands or fingers, in an up
and down or side to side movement. Generally, one hand works whilst the
other supports the part; sometimes both hands are used.
Vibrations can be static (performed in one place) or running (moving up and
down). Use the palmar surface of the hand, the pads of the fingers or the
distal phalanx of the thumbs (the smallest bone that forms the tip of the
thumb). The muscles of the forearm are contracted continually and then
relaxed to produce the vibration movements.

The movements may be fine, deep or invigorating depending on the effect

required. Much co-ordination and practice are needed to perform the moves
correctly.

This movement can be used when the muscles are tense or tight and not
responding to petrissage or frictions.

Another vibration manipulation is ‘shaking’, a bigger movement that produces a

shaking of the muscle. This is particularly effective when performed over the
chest to loosen secretions and mucous in the lungs.

The benefits and effects of vibrations:

Helps to relieve fatigue.

Helps to relieve tension and aid relaxation, having a sedative effect.
Stimulates and clears nerve pathways.
Relaxes muscles reducing pain and stiffness.
Warms the tissues.
TAPOTEMENT

Tapotement (tah-POH-te-ment), also known as percussion (pur- KUSH-un),

consists of short quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements. This form of
massage is the most stimulating and should be applied with care and
discretion. Tapotement movements tone the muscles and impart a healthy
glow to the area being massaged.

Perform “piano” light tapping massage Roll and tap on the cheeks, then on
movement around the eyes and then around the forehead. Transition around the
the cheeks. eyes, around the chin and move to
step up.

In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips down
against the skin in rapid succession. Your fingers must be flexible enough to
create an even force over the area being massaged.

In slapping movements, keeping your wrists flexible allows your palms to come
in contact with the skin in light, firm, and rapid slapping movements. One hand
follows the other. With each slapping stroke, lift the flesh slightly.

Hacking is a chopping movement performed with the edges of the hands. Both
the wrists and hands move alternately in fast, light, firm, and flexible motions
against the skin. Hacking and slapping movements are used only to massage
the back, shoulders, and arms.
Tapotement is a technique that involves a percussion movement such as
cupping, tapping, hacking and pounding. Tapotement is a stimulating
manipulation that operates through the response of the nerves. The strongest
effect of tapotement is due to the response of the tendon reflexes. The hands
should be kept close to the body, with no more than 1 inch from the body. The
movement should be rapid, light, sharp and springy, with the hands loose at the
wrists. The forearm muscles contract and relax in rapid succession to move the
elbow joint into flexion and then allow it to quickly release.

The effects of the movement are as follows:

Increases the circulation

Stimulates the skin and muscle reflexes
Helps create the desired effect of a massage
LYMPH DRAINAGE

Developed in the 1930s, lymphatic drainage is a delicate form of massage that

stimulates the body’s lymphatic system, improving the metabolism, helping the
body to eliminate waste and toxins and providing a boost to the immune
system.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

The lymphatic system is responsible for helping fluid and waste leave the body
and for regulating the immune system. When the lymphatic system becomes
blocked, fluid builds up and stagnates, causing the entire system to become
toxic thus making us feel sluggish and more susceptible to viral or contagious
diseases.

By stimulating this system through massage, it is able to work more efficiently,

which in turn boosts the immune system, clears blockages, eliminates toxins,
transports nutrients to cells and increases the metabolism.
 Gently pump the lymph nodes towards the head.

WHAT DOES IT INVOLVE?

Unlike some other forms of massage, lymphatic

drainage utilizes a very light pressure combined
with soft pumping movements in the direction of
the lymph nodes.

WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR?

Lymphatic drainage massage is especially useful

for individuals who seem to suffer regularly from
common illnesses like colds and flu. It is also
recommended for people who lead sedentary
lifestyles, or those who want to reduce puffiness
or swelling. It has been cited as having a
positive effect on problem skin, cellulite,
dysfunctional respiratory systems and people
with low energy.
MOTOR NERVE POINTS OF THE NECK.

FYI: Before performing a service that includes a facial massage, consult the
client’s intake or health screening form. During the consultation acknowledge
and discuss any medical condition that may contraindicate a facial massage.
Ask the client if he or she has discussed massage with a physician. If the client
has not already sought a physician’s advice as to whether or not a facial
massage is advisable, encourage him or her to do so before you perform the
service.

Many clients who have high blood pressure (hypertension), diabetes, or

circulatory conditions may still have facial massage without concern, especially
if their condition is being treated and carefully looked after by a physician.

Facial massage is, however, contraindicated for clients with severe,

uncontrolled hypertension. Also, clients with acne should not be massaged in
any area that has breakouts.

If your client expresses a concern about having a facial massage and has a
medical condition, advise him or her to speak with a physician before having
the service.

If your client has sensitive or redness-prone skin, avoid using vigorous or strong
massage techniques.

Do not talk to your client during the massage except to ask once whether your
touch should be more or less firm. Talking eliminates the relaxation therapy of
the massage.

When making decisions about whether to perform a facial massage on a

person who has a medical condition, be conservative. When in doubt, don’t
include massage as part of your service.
MOTOR NERVE POINTS OF THE FACE.

The recommended frequency of facial or scalp massage depends on the

condition of the skin or scalp, the age of the client, and the condition being
treated. As a general rule, normal skin or scalp can be kept in excellent
condition with the help of a weekly massage, accompanied by proper home
care.

Shiatsu

Finish by applying light pressure to pressure points. Reference Motor Points

Massage diagram, above. Apply pressure with balls of fingers. End with
light effleurage around the temples, then with gentle pressure on the
temples.
FACIAL MANIPULATIONS

Because an overview of basic massage/manipulation techniques and

guidelines is now complete, the best manipulations to use on the face can be
discussed in more depth. When performing facial manipulations, keep in mind
that an even tempo, or rhythm, is relaxing. Do not remove your hands from the
client’s face once you have started the manipulations.

Should it become necessary to remove your hands, feather them off, and then
gently replace them with feather-like movements. Remember that massage
movements are generally directed from the muscle’s insertion toward its origin,
in order to avoid damage to muscle tissues.

Chin movement. Lift the chin, using a slight

pressure.

Lower cheeks. Using a circular movement, rotate

from chin to ears

Mouth, nose, and cheek movements. Follow the

diagram
Light circular movement over the temples
continuing with linear movement over forehead.

Circular movement over forehead.

Linear movement over the forehead.

Slide fingers to the temples and then stroke up to

hairline, gradually moving your hands across the
forehead to the right eyebrow

Circular movement over the forehead. Starting at

the eyebrow line, work across the middle of the
forehead and then toward the hairline.

Crisscross movement. Start at one side of forehead

and work back.

Stroking (headache) movement. Slide your fingers

toward the center of the forehead and then draw
your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the
temples and rotate.

Stroking Headache Movement

Brow and eye movement. Place your middle fingers

at the inner corners of the eyes and your index
fingers over the brows. Slide them toward the outer
corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back
to the inner corners.

Brow and eye movement.

Nose and upper cheek movement. Slide your

fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement
across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently.
Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to
the bridge of the nose.
Mouth and nose movement. Apply a circular movement from the corners of the
mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the brows and then
down to the corners of the mouth up to the sides of nose. Follow by sliding your
fingers over the brows and down to the corners of the mouth again.

Mouth and nose movement.

Lip and chin movement.

Lip and chin movement. From the center of the

upper lip, draw your fingers around the mouth,
going under the lower lip and chin. nose and upper
cheek movement.

Optional movement. Hold the head with your left

hand and draw the fingers of your right hand from
under the lower lip and around mouth, moving to
the center of the upper lip.

Lifting movement of the cheeks. Proceed from the

mouth to the ears, and then from the nose to the
top part of the ears.

Lifting Movement Of Cheeks.

Rotary movement of the cheeks. Massage from the

chin to the ear lobes, from the mouth to the middle
of the ears, and from the nose to the top of the
ears.

Rotary Movement Of Cheeks.

Light tapping movement. Work from the chin to the

earlobe, from the mouth to the ear, from the nose
to the top of the ear, and then across the
forehead. Repeat on the other side.
Light Tapping Movement.

Stroking movement of the neck. Apply light upward

strokes over the front of the neck. Use heavier
pressure on the sides of neck in downward
strokes.

Stroking movement of neck.

Circular movement over the neck and chest.

Starting at the back of the ears, apply a circular
movement down the side of the neck, over the
shoulders, and across the chest.

Circular movement over neck and chest.

Massaging male skin is not all that different from

massaging female skin. However, it needs more
attention in the areas of the face where there is
hair growth. For your male clients, use downward
movements in the beard area. Massaging against
hair growth causes great discomfort.

Pressure-point massage in the beard area is much

appreciated by male clients.
PHYSIOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF MASSAGE

To obtain proper results from a scalp or facial massage, you must have a
thorough knowledge of the structures involved, including muscles, nerves,
connective tissues, and blood vessels. Every muscle has a motor point, which is
a point on the skin that covers the muscle where pressure or stimulation will
cause contraction of that muscle. Some examples are illustrated. In order to
obtain the maximum benefits from a facial massage, you must consider the
motor points that affect the underlying muscles of the face and neck. The
location of motor points varies among individuals due to differences in body
structure. However, a few manipulations on the proper motor points will relax
the client early in the massage treatment. Relaxation is achieved through light
but firm, slow, rhythmic movements, or very slow, light hand vibrations over the
motor points for a short time. Another technique is to pause briefly over the
motor points, using light pressure.

Skillfully applied massage directly or indirectly influences the structures and

functions of the body. The immediate effects of massage are first noticed on
the skin. The area being massaged shows increased circulation, secretion,
nutrition, and excretion.

The following benefits may be obtained by proper facial and scalp massage:

Skin and all structures are nourished

Skin becomes softer and more pliable
Circulation of blood is increased
Activity of skin glands is stimulated
Muscle fibers are stimulated and strengthened
Nerves are soothed and rested
Pain is sometimes relieved
FACIALS EQUIPMENT
There are many types of facial equipment that can enhance your abilities to
perform an outstanding facial treatment. These machines help to increase the
efficacy of your products, increase product penetration, and provide for a
more complete and relaxing treatment.

We have already mentioned magnifying lamps, which are necessary for both
analysis of the skin and procedures such as extraction of comedones and
tweezing of excess facial hair.

A facial steamer heats and produces a stream of warm steam that can be
focused on the client’s face or other areas of skin. Steaming the skin helps to
soften the tissues, making it more accepting of moisturizers and other
treatment products. Steam also helps to relax and soften follicle
accumulations such as comedones and clogged follicles, making them easier
to extract.

Most steamers work by having a heating coil that boils water. The steam from
the boiling water flows through a pipe that can be focused on the area to be
treated, normally the face. Only distilled water should be used in most
steamers to avoid mineral build-up in the machine.
Steam is usually administered at the beginning of the facial treatment. Most
clients enjoy steam, but precautions should be taken with clients who have
asthma or other breathing disorders.

It is strongly recommended that a professional steamer be used, but if one is

not available, a warm steamed towel may be gently wrapped around the face,
leaving the nose exposed so the client can breathe comfortably. The towel
should be comfortably warm, but not hot. Do not use steamed towels on clients
who have sensitive skin, redness-prone skin, rosacea, or claustrophobia.

A brushing machine is a rotating electric appliance with interchangeable

brushes that can be attached to the rotating head. Brushes of various sizes as
well as textures are common. Larger and stiffer brushes are used for back
treatment, and smaller and softer brushes are used for the face.

Brushing is a form of mechanical exfoliation, and it is usually administered after

or during steam. A fairly thick layer of cleanser or moisturizer should be applied
to the face before using the brushing machine.
CAUTION

Information regarding facial equipment in this chapter is intended as an

overview. You should receive hands-on experience from your instructor before
using any facial equipment! Machine models differ; as a result, precautions
vary as well. Consult with your instructor and the specific machine manual for
safe operation. In some states, use of certain equipment may not be
permissible for cosmetologists. Again, check with your instructor to find out
what is allowed in your state.

This applied product provides a buffer for the brushes so that they do not
scratch the face, which they might do if the face were completely dry.

Brushing helps remove dead cells from the skin surface, making the skin look
smoother and more even in coloration. It also helps to stimulate blood
circulation.

Brushing should never be used on clients using keratolytic drugs such as Retin-
A®, Differin®, Tazorac®, or other drugs that thin or exfoliate the skin.

Clients who have rosacea, sensitive skin, pustular acne, or other forms of skin
inflammation or reddening should not have brushing administered. Never use a
brushing machine at the same time as another exfoliation technique, such as
an AHA treatment or microdermabrasion.

Brushes must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between clients.

The skin suction and cold spray machine is used to increase circulation, and to
The skin suction and cold spray machine is used to increase circulation, and to
jet-spray lotions and toners onto the skin. Skin suction should only be used on
non-sensitive and non inflamed skin.

Spray can be used on almost any skin type. Spray is often used to hydrate the
skin and to help clean off mask treatments.
ELECTROTHERAPY &
LIGHT THERAPY
Galvanic and high-frequency treatment are types of electrotherapies (ee-
LECK-tro-ther-ah-pee), which is the use of electrical currents to treat the skin.
There are several contraindications for electrotherapy. Electrotherapy should
never be administered on heart patients, clients with pacemakers, clients with
metal implants, pregnant clients, clients with epilepsy or seizure disorders,
clients who are afraid of electric current, or clients with open or broken skin.
Furthermore, if you ever have any doubts about whether the client can have
electrotherapy safely, request that the client get approval from her physician
before receiving this therapy.

CAUTION | Do not use the galvanic current on clients who have:

metal implants, a pacemaker, or any heart condition.

epilepsy.
pregnancy.
high blood pressure, fever, or any infection.
insufficient nerve sensibility.
open or broken skin (wounds, new scars), including pustular acne.
fear of electrical current.

An electrode is an applicator for directing the electric current from the

machine to the client’s skin. High-frequency machines have only one electrode.
Galvanic machines have two positive electrodes called an anode (AN-ohd),
which has a red plug and cord, and a negative electrode called a cathode
(KATH-ohd), which has a black plug and cord.

Galvanic current accomplishes two basic tasks. Desincrustation (des-in-cruh-

STAY-shun) is the process of softening and emulsifying hardened sebum stuck
in the hair follicles. Desincrustation is very helpful when treating oily areas with
multiple comedones and most acne-prone skin. Desincrustation products are
alkaline fluids or gels that act as solvents for the solidified sebum. These
products make extraction of the impactions and comedones much easier.
Galvanic and high-frequency treatment are types of electrotherapies (ee-
LECK-tro-ther-ah-pee), which is the use of electrical currents to treat the skin.
There are several contraindications for electrotherapy. Electrotherapy should
never be administered on heart patients, clients with pacemakers, clients with
metal implants, pregnant clients, clients with epilepsy or seizure disorders,
clients who are afraid of electric current, or clients with open or broken skin.
Furthermore, if you ever have any doubts about whether the client can have
electrotherapy safely, request that the client get approval from her physician
before receiving this therapy.

CAUTION | Do not use the galvanic current on clients who have:

metal implants, a pacemaker, or any heart condition.

epilepsy.
pregnancy.
 high blood pressure, fever, or any infection.
insufficient nerve sensibility.
open or broken skin (wounds, new scars), including pustular acne.
fear of electrical current.

An electrode is an applicator for directing the electric current from the

machine to the client’s skin. High-frequency machines have only one electrode.
Galvanic machines have two positive electrodes called an anode (AN-ohd),
which has a red plug and cord, and a negative electrode called a cathode
(KATH-ohd), which has a black plug and cord.

Galvanic current accomplishes two basic tasks. Desincrustation (des-in-cruh-

STAY-shun) is the process of softening and emulsifying hardened sebum stuck
in the hair follicles. Desincrustation is very helpful when treating oily areas with
multiple comedones and most acne-prone skin. Desincrustation products are
alkaline fluids or gels that act as solvents for the solidified sebum. These
products make extraction of the impactions and comedones much easier.

When the negative pole is applied to the face over a Desincrustation product,
the current forces the product deeper into the follicle. The current also
produces a chemical reaction that helps to loosen the impacted sebum.

Both electrodes are wrapped in wet cotton. The active electrode is the one
that should be applied to the skin. The active electrode—in the case of
Desincrustation, the negative electrode—is applied to the oily areas of the face
for three to five minutes. The positive electrode (in this case, the inactive
electrode) is held by the client in her right hand or attached to a pad that is
placed in contact with the client’s right shoulder. After the Desincrustation
process has taken place, sebum deposits can easily be extracted with gentle
pressure Iontophoresis (eye-ahn-toh-foh-REE-sus) is the process of using
galvanic current to enable water-soluble products that contain ions to
penetrate the skin. Products suitable for iontophoresis will be labeled as such
by manufacturers. When the negative current is applied to the face, products
with negative ions are able to penetrate the skin, and when the positive
current is applied to the face, products with positive ions are able to penetrate
the skin. Many ampoules and serums are prepared for iontophoresis.

Again, you must receive thorough hands-on instruction from your teacher
before attempting this procedure.
MICROCURRENT

Microcurrent (MY-kroh-KUR-ent) is a type of galvanic treatment using a very

low level of electrical current; it has many applications in skin care and is best
known for helping to tone the skin, producing a lifting effect for aging skin that
lacks elasticity.

HIGH-FREQUENCY CURRENT

High-frequency current, discovered by Nikolas Tesla, can be used to stimulate

blood flow and help products penetrate. It works by warming tissues, which
allows better absorption of moisturizers and other treatment products. High-
frequency current can also be applied after extraction or during treatments for
acne-prone skin because it has a germicidal effect.
CAUTION

Place the passive electrode on the right side of the client’s body only (never on
the left side) to avoid current flow through the heart. Electrodes for the high-
frequency machine are made of glass and contain various types of gas, such
as neon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through the
electrode. Unlike the galvanic machine, high-frequency treatments require the
use of only one electrode. There are several different types of electrodes used
with high frequency. The most common is shaped like a mushroom, and it is
referred to as a mushroom electrode.

High frequency can be applied directly to the skin in a technique known as

direct application. Another application method, known as indirect massage or
Viennese massage, involves the client holding the electrode during treatment,
creating an electrical stimulating massage.

High frequency is applied to the skin as part of the treatment phase of the
facial treatment. Again, because machines vary, you should check with your
instructor and the manufacturer’s manual for instructions for the specific
machine you are using.

CAUTION

The contraindications for galvanic current also apply to both indirect and
direct high- frequency current. Furthermore, in order to prevent burns during
the treatment, the client should avoid any contact with metal— such as chair
arms, stools, jewelry, and metal bobby pins.
LIGHT THERAPY

Using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin is known as light therapy.
There are several different types of light therapy utilizing various types of light.
Traditionally, infrared lamps have been used to heat the skin and increase
blood flow. Infrared lights have also been used for hair and scalp treatments.
One type of light therapy is called light-emitting diode (LED) treatment. This
treatment uses concentrated light that fes very rapidly.
LEDs were originally developed to help with wound healing. In cosmetology,
LED machines are used cosmetically to minimize redness, warm lower-level
tissues, stimulate blood flow, and improve skin smoothness. They are applied to
improve acne-prone skin. The type and color of the light varies according to
treatment objective. Red lights are used to treat aging and redness,
and blue light is used for acne-prone skin.

LEDs are a very safe treatment for most clients, but their use should be avoided
on clients who have seizure disorders. Fing lights have been known to trigger
seizures in persons with seizure disorders. Any clients with questionable health
conditions should receive written approval from a physician before having an
LED treatment.

CAUTION

The client’s eyes always should be protected during any light ray treatment.
Use cotton pads saturated with alcohol-free freshener or distilled water. The
eye pads protect the eyes from the glare of the reflecting rays.
MICRODERMABRASION

Microdermabrasion (MY-kroh-dur-muh-BRAY-zhun) is a type of mechanical

exfoliation that involves shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the skin
with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead cells.

Microdermabrasion uses a closed vacuum to shoot crystals onto the skin,

bumping off cell build-up that is then vacuumed up by suction.
Microdermabrasion is a popular treatment because it produces fast, visible
results. It is used primarily to treat surface wrinkles and aging skin.
Performance of safe and effective microdermabrasion treatments requires
extensive training.
FACIAL TREATMENTS
A professional facial is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing services
available to the salon client. Clients who have experienced this very restful
yet stimulating experience do not hesitate to return for more.

When clients receive them on a regular basis, the client’s skin tone, texture,
and appearance are noticeably improved.

Facial treatments fall into one of the following categories:

Preservative. Maintains the health of the facial skin by cleansing

correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the
skin glands and metabolism through massage.
Corrective. Correct certain facial skin conditions, such as dryness,
oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and minor conditions of acne. As with
other forms of massage, facial treatments help to increase circulation,
activate glandular activity, relax the nerves, maintain muscle tone, and
strengthen weak muscle tissues.

GUIDELINES FOR FACIAL TREATMENTS

Your facial treatments are bound to be successful and to inspire return visits
if you follow the simple guidelines summarized below:

Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner.

Explain the benefits of the products and service and answer any
questions the client may have.
Provide a quiet atmosphere and work quietly and efficiently.
Maintain neat, clean conditions in the facial work area, with an orderly
arrangement of supplies.
Follow systematic procedures.
If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the client’s face.
Keep your nails smooth and short to prevent scratching the client’s skin.
STATE REGULATORY

Always check with your state regulatory agency to determine which

electrical machines are approved for use in your state. Another guideline
you must always follow is to perform an analysis of your client’s skin. After
the client is draped and lying on the facial table (also called a facial
bed),you should inspect the skin to determine the following:

Is the skin dry, normal, or oily?

Are there fine lines or creases?
Are comedones or acne present?
Are dilated capillaries visible?
Is skin texture smooth or rough?
Is skin color even?

The results of your analysis will determine the products to use for the
treatment, what areas of the face need special attention, how much
pressure to use when massaging, and what equipment should be used.
BASIC FACIAL APPLICATION

The procedure lists the basic implements and materials you will need to
perform the basic facial, but you can add other items, such an alternative
head covering, if you wish. There are several types of head coverings on the
market. Some are a turban design; others are designed with elastic, like a
shower cap. They are generally made of either cloth or paper towels. For the
paper towel procedure, be guided by your instructor.

FYI - To safely and effectively perform advanced skin care treatments— such as
microcurrent, microdermabrasion, and LED light cosmetologists require advanced,
specialized training.

SPECIAL PROBLEMS

There are a number of special problems that must be considered when you
are performing a facial. These include dry skin, oily skin and blackheads, and
acne. Dry skin is caused by an insufficient flow of sebum (oil) from the
sebaceous glands. The facial for dry skin helps correct this condition.
Although it can be given with or without an electrical current, the use of
electrical current provides better results. Oily skin is often characterized by
comedones, which are caused by hardened masses of sebum formed in the
ducts of the sebaceous glands.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN

Minor problem skin and oily skin should respond well to facial treatments.
Unresponsive or severe cases of acne need medical treatment, and clients
with such conditions should be referred to a dermatologist. If a client is
under medical care, the role of the cosmetologist is to work under the
advisement of the client’s physician, following the physician’s instructions for
the type and frequency of facial treatments. Cosmetologists can help these
clients with extraction treatments, assist them in choosing proper home-care
products and makeup, and help them to understand how to coordinate
medications with a home skin care program.

There are numerous topical prescription medications that can make the skin
more sensitive and more reactive to skin care products.

Always check with the client’s dermatologist if you are performing

treatments to clients who are under dermatological care. Because skin with
acne contains infectious matter, you must wear protective gloves and use
disposable materials such as cotton cleansing pads when working with
clients who have acne.
CLEANSING ROUTINE

Cleanse each eye separately with small circular movements and remove
make-up with damp cotton wool
Cleanse lip area with a figure of eight movement supporting the corner of
the mouth, remove with damp cotton wool
Apply cleanser to the neck and face area
Starting at the neck, use upward strokes on the neck | 6 to the right- & 6 to
the left
Alternate stroking along the jaw line x 6
Alternate stroking over the chin using the thumbs x 6
Stroking under the nose and over the upper lip x 6
Circular movements from the corner of the mouth over the entire cheek
area x 3
Circular movements at the crease of the nose
Stroking up and down the length of the nose
Eye circles x 6
Stroking of the forehead
Cross friction over the forehead
Large circular movements over the entire cheek area x 3
Finish with pressure at the temples
Remove cleanser with damp cotton wool and repeat the routine.

PROCEDURE FOR TONING

Place some toner onto damp cotton wool and follow the same sequence
as for cleansing. Not all cleansers require the use of toner; however, it does
give the skin a fresh feeling after cleansing.
Blot the skin dry using a tissue. Preparing for A Facial Massage:
Undo the headband (if used) to expose the hair.
Apply chosen medium, which may be:
- A carrier oils
- Massage cream
- Blended aromatherapy oils Remember always
Maintain contact with the skin at all times during the massage
Keep one hand in contact whilst you reposition the other
Keep the rhythm smooth and slow
Avoid being unduly repetitive with the movements
Adapt pressure accordingly
Avoid sudden movements
 AROMATHERPY
FACIALS
The use of essential oils such as lemon verbena, lavender, and rose is a
frequent practice in facial skin care. Many essential oils are also used for
aromatherapy, the therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health
treatment. Aromatherapy is thought to benefit and enhance a person’s
physical, emotional, mental, and spiritual well-being. Using various oils and
oil blends for specific benefits is believed to create positive effects on the
body, mind, and spirit.

Aromatherapy is sometimes used as a healing modality by natural healers

who have received extensive training in the properties and uses of essential
oils and their aromatherapy benefits. Cosmetologists should never attempt
to perform healing treatments with aromatherapy.

Essential oils can be used in a variety of ways. Lighting a cinnamon candle in

the winter can give the salon a cozy feeling and cheer up both clients and
service providers.
You can use a spray bottle to diffuse well-diluted essential oils in the
treatment room or on the sheets. You can create your own aromatherapy
massage oil by adding a few drops of essential oil to a massage oil, cream, or
lotion. Always be careful to use essential oils lightly because they can
sometimes be overpowering.

Essential oils can be used in a variety of ways. Lighting a cinnamon candle in

the winter can give the salon a cozy feeling and cheer up both clients and
service providers. You can use a spray bottle to diffuse well-diluted essential
oils in the treatment room or on the sheets. You can create your own
aromatherapy massage oil by adding a few drops of essential oil to a massage
oil, cream, or lotion. Always be careful to use essential oils lightly because they
can sometimes be overpowering.
AROMATHERAPY FACIALS, PROCEDURE, USAGE AND BENEFITS

Aromatherapy facials and its benefits: We totally love looking beautiful and
youthful and to attain this, we end up doing several efforts improve our skin
texture and its overall wellness. Facials are the best way to pamper your
skin. Every woman of 30 plus does prefer visiting salons to get their facials
done. It completes the whole beauty care and adds natural spark to the
skin. When it comes to selecting the right facial for the skin, you may
discover it hard to choose the suitable facial according to your skin
requirements. There is variety of facials offered in the market like galvanic
facial, oxygen facial. One of the most well-liked and trending facials is
aromatherapy facials.

WHAT IS AROMATHERAPY FACIALS?

Aromatherapy facial is one the kind of facial that is prepared with essential
oils which deeply nourish the skin. At present days, it is among the top
favorites of all beauties. The cause behind its popularity is the excellent
outcomes at low monetary rates.
HOW AROMATHERAPY FACIALS BENEFICIAL TO THE SKIN?

Such facials give several benefits to the skin health and ensure proper care
of it. Let’s throw a look at the benefits of this latest facial method.

Prevents skin problems

The first and utmost benefit of aromatherapy facials is that it slowly works
against skin issues like acne, blemishes, dark spots and red spots. The
essential oils utilized in this facial process control the recurrence of such
troubles.

Improves skin complexion

Dark skin tone people can try this facial to increase their skin tone. It also
reduces pigmentation of the face and leaving a radiant glow on it.

Removes dead cells

This facial deeply cleanses the skin and clear all the impurities and dirt
away. The essential oils like olive oil and rosemary oil deeply clean the skin
cells and applies a fresh clean look.

Treats skin infection

Sensitive skin people suffer from many allergies and infections. It can be
healed by applying antiseptic and anti-inflammatory substances found in
rosemary, almond oil, olive oil and so on.

Soften your skin

The aromatherapy facials are done by using pure and effective oils that
restore the skin moisture and gives a soft and supple feel. To achieve this,
select lavender oil, olive oil and vitamin-E content in facials.
No Side Effects

Chemical based facials result in bad side effects. It may cause dryness, skin
discoloration, allergies, spots and ageing. Aromatherapy facials are
chemical free and give deep care to the peel.

Controls Ageing

Essential oils like olive oil, almond oil, castor oil prevents pre-mature ageing.
It naturally tightens the skin and unclogs the pores. It leaves your skin
flawless and radiant.

Increase Skin Health

Oils used in this facial consists antioxidants and vitamins that induce blood
circulation and the formation of new skin cells. It maintains elasticity of the
skin and gives suppleness to the skin.

AROMATHERAPY FACIAL ROUTINE

Start with an introductory routine.

Cleanse the facial skin to remove all make up.
Tone the skin to remove the cleanser.
Apply the scrub, leave for a couple of minutes and then rinse off.
Tone the skin to soothe.
Apply the steamer for 5-10mins.
Dry the skin.
Apply the mask and leave for 10-15mins.
Rinse off the mask and dry the skin.
Apply the facial massage using facial oil for 10mins (see routine below)
Ensure the skin is dry of oil.
Massage in Moisturizing Cream
Finishing routine.
HEAD, NECK AND SHOULDER MASSAGE ROUTINE

Ask the client to lie on their back and breathe deeply.

Place your hands on the client’s shoulders while they relax.
Apply a small amount of oil to the face and ears (or you do not have to
use oil).
With your first two fingers gently run them along from the tip of the nose
and over the forehead. Repeat 5 times.
With your first two fingers gently run them from the centre of the
forehead to the outside hairline. Repeat 5 times.
With your first two fingers gently tap from the centre of the forehead to
the outside hairline. Repeat 5 times.
With your second finger apply light pressure points from the inside of
the eyebrow to the edge. Repeat 3 times.
With your second finger apply light pressure points underneath the eye
along the edge of the
zygomatic bone. Repeat 3 times.
With your second finger apply slow effleurage (stroking/draining
movements) along the sinuses. Repeat 5 times.
Gently pinch along the jawline with thumb and index finger.
Gently massage the outer ear and ear lobe with thumb and index finger.

With your first two fingers gently run them along from the tip of the nose,
over the forehead and into the hair. Repeat 5 times.
Apply light effleurage stroking to the head and hair.
Apply light effleurage stroking to the head and hair.
Apply oil over the upper chest and around the shoulders.
Effleurage starting at the centre of the chest and come around outside
the shoulders and up the neck
to the occipital bone. Repeat 3 times.
Friction movement with the thumbs over the chest area.
Kneading into the shoulders.
Effleurage into a traction movement stretching the neck.
Fingertip kneading around the scalp.
Finish with effleurage around chest and shoulders.
The shoulders, neck and head can hold a great deal of tension and pain.
Carrying heavy loads and typing on the computer keyboard would be
common examples of the cause of pain. A facial massage can relax a
person and relieve pain in the body.

Massage will:

Stimulate the blood circulation bringing essential nutrients to the area

Stimulate the removal of waste products and toxins from the tissues
Increase cellular activity
Relieve tension
Improve skin colour
Help keep the skin soft and supple aided by massage mediums
Relax the client

MASSAGE SAFETY

HOW TO DILUTE ESSENTIAL OILS FOR MASSAGES

Caution: Some essential oils have different dermal maximums and

recommended usage levels; thus, it is important to consult a safety manual
or Certified Aromatherapist for appropriate dilution guidelines, specific to
the essential oil in question.

Below is a general guide for dilution:

FOR ADULTS:
2.5% dilution = 15 drops of essential oil per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil
3% dilution = 20 drops of essential oil per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil
5% dilution = 30 drops of essential oil per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil
10% dilution = 60 drops of essential oil per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil

FOR INFANTS AND YOUNG CHILDREN:

0.5-1% dilution = 3-6 drops of essential oil per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil

FOR SENSITIVE SKIN:

0.5-1 % dilution = 3 to 6 drops per ounce (30 ml) of carrier oil
ADAPTATIONS TO MASSAGE
SKIN TYPE AND CHARACTERISTICS

Clients with an oily skin will require an emphasis on calming and relaxing
the skin to reduce skin activity. Avoid too much pressure, keep the pace
slow using light effleurage and minimal tapotement.
Clients with dry skin will require more stimulating massage to stimulate
skin activity.
Clients with sensitive skin, avoid overstimulation. The emphasis should be
on effleurage and slow petrissage. Avoid tapotement and friction.
Age of client:
- Up to 20 – keep the massage to a minimum, aim to relax the client, use
pressure and lymphatic drainage
- 20-40 – slow deep effleurage, sustained petrissage, vibrations and
tapotement
- 40+ - slow gentle petrissage and apply more tapotement to tone
Gender
- Male clients should be advised about shaving - ideally, they should shave a
couple of hours before the treatment.
- Massage movements should include pressure and drainage movements.
- Clients with facial hair - you will need to work around this or alter the
direction of your movements in the direction of hair growth to avoid irritation

ARM MASSAGE ROUTINE

Effleurage the whole arm.

Firm stroking to palm of hand using thenar muscle.
Zig Zag movements down the palm using firm pressure towards the
wrist.
Zig Zag movements to the wrist.
Rotate and gently pull each finger.
Effleurage the whole arm.
Picking Up and kneading around the forearm
Thumb rotaries around the elbow.
Picking Up and kneading around the biceps and triceps (petrissage).
Effleurage the whole arm.
 BASIC FACIAL
PROCEDURE
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS

You will need all of the following implements, materials, and supplies:

Antiseptic lotion
Clean sheet or other covering (blanket if necessary)
Cleansers and makeup removers
Cotton (roll)
Cotton pads
Cotton swabs and pledgets
Facial steamer (optional)
Facial table or chair
gauze
headband or head covering
Magnifying lamp
Masks
Massage cream or lubricating oil
Preparation
Moisturizers
Bobby pins/safety pins
Facial gown
Spatulas
Sponges
Sun-protection products
tissues
toner
tonic lotions
towels
trash can
trolley for products and implements
optional items:
infrared lamp
other electrical equipment
Specialty or intensive care products
PROCEDURE

1 ask the client to remove any jewelry such as a

necklace or earrings. Store the client’s jewelry in a
safe place. Clients may wish to keep their handbags
nearby during the facial.

2 Show the client to the dressing room and offer

assistance if needed.

3 place a clean towel across the back of the facial

table to prevent the client’s bare shoulders from
coming into contact with the bed.

4, If necessary, help your client get onto the facial

bed. Place a towel across the client’s chest and
place a coverlet or sheet over the client’s body,
folding the top edge of the towel over it. remove the
client’s shoes and tuck the coverlet around her feet.
Some salons provide disposable slippers that can be
worn to and from the dressing room.

5 Fasten a headband lined with tissue, a towel, or

other head covering around the client’s head to
protect their hair. to drape the head with a towel,
follow these steps:

5a Fold the towel diagonally from one of the top

corners to the opposite lower corner and place it
over the headrest with the fold facing down.
place the towel on the headrest before the client
enters the facial area.
5b When the client is in a reclined position, the
back of the head should rest on the towel so that
the sides of the towel can be brought up to the
center of the forehead to cover the hairline.
5c use a headband with a Velcro closure or a pin
to hold the towel in place. Make sure that all
strands of hair are tucked under the towel, that
the earlobes are not bent, and that the towel is
not wrapped too tightly.
6 remove lingerie straps from a female client’s
shoulders. alternative method: If client is given a
strapless gown to wear, tuck the straps into the top of
the gown.

7 If your client wears makeup, use the following steps to

remove it. If your client has no makeup, proceed to step
8.

7a apply a pea-sized amount of eye makeup

remover to each of two damp cotton pads and
place them on the client’s closed eyes. Leave them
in place for one minute.
7b Meanwhile, apply another pea-sized amount of
eye makeup remover to a damp cotton pad and
gently remove the client’s lipstick with even strokes
from the corners of the lips toward the center.
repeat the procedure until the lips are clean.
7c Now, remove the eye makeup in the same way,
gently stroking down and outward with the cotton
pad. do one eye first, and then the other. repeat
the procedure until the eyelids and es are clean.
7d ask the client to lookup, and then remove any
makeup underneath the eyes. always be gentle
around the eyes. Never rub or stretch this thin,
delicate skin.

8 remove about a teaspoon of cleanser from the

container with a clean spatula. Blend it with your
fingers to soften it.

8a Starting at the neck with a sweeping movement,

use both hands to spread the cleanser upward on
the chin, jaws, cheeks, the base of the nose to the
temples, and along the sides and the bridge of the
nose. Make small circular movements with your
fingertips around the nostrils and sides of the nose.
Continue the upward sweeping movements
between the brows and across the forehead to the
temples.
 8b take additional cleanser from the container with a clean spatula and
blend it with your fingers. Smooth down the neck, chest, and back with
long, even strokes.
8c Starting at the center of the forehead, move your fingertips lightly in a
circle around the eyes to the temples and then back to the center of the
forehead.
8d Slide your fingers down the nose to the upper lip, from the temples
through the forehead, lightly down to the chin, and then firmly up the jaw
line back toward the temples and forehead.

9 remove the cleanser with facial sponges, tissues, moist cotton pads, or warm,
moist towels. Start at the forehead and follow the contours of the face.
remove all the cleanser from one area of the face before proceeding to the
next. Finish with the neck, chest, and back.

10 analyze the client’s skin to determine the products and procedures to be

used.

Optional: if eyebrow arching is to be done, it should be done at this time.

11 use warm, moist towels or a facial steamer to moisturize and soften the
facial skin, helping to loosen comedones for extraction. If you use a steamer,
cover the client’s eyes with cotton pads moistened with either distilled water or
a special eye compress solution. Steam helps to soften superficial lines and
increases blood circulation to the surface of the skin.

12 assumingthattheclient’sskinisnonsensitive,exfoliate.applyagranularscrub to
the face and gently massage the scrub in small circular movements. Never use
a granular product near the eye area because granules can accidentally get
into the eye. this procedure should take about two minutes. If you like, this
granular scrub can be used during exposure to the facial steamer. remove the
scrub carefully with damp sponges or cotton pads. a brushing machine can be
used instead of the granular scrub but remember to apply cleansing milk
before using the machine. Check with your instructor to have her show you the
correct way to use the brushing machine.

13 Choose a treatment cream, lotion, or massage cream appropriate for the

skin type. using the same procedure as for the cleanser, apply the cream to the
face, neck, shoulders, chest, and back.
If needed, apply lubrication oil or cream around the eyes and on the neck.
Massage the face, using the facial manipulations described in the Facial
Massage section of this chapter.

14 remove massage cream with warm, moist towels, moist cleansing pads, or
sponges. Follow the same procedure as for removing cleanser.

15 Sponge the face with cotton pledgets moistened with toner or freshener.

16 apply a treatment mask formulated for the client’s skin condition.

16a remove some mask from its container with a clean spatula and place it
in a little cup.
16b apply the mask with a natural bristle brush, starting at the neck. use
long slow strokes from the center outward.
16c proceed to the jawline and apply the mask on the face from the center
outward on half of the face and then on the other half.
16d allow the mask to remain on the face for seven to ten minutes.

17 remove the mask with wet cotton pledgets, sponges, or towels.

18 apply toner, astringent, or freshener.

19 apply a moisturizer or sunscreen.

20 When the service is completed, remove the head covering and show the
client to the dressing room, offering assistance if needed.
 FACIALS
DRY SKIN
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS

In addition to the items needed for the Basic Facial, you will also need:

eye cream
galvanic or high- frequency machine, depending on treatment
Specialized creams, serums, and toners for dry skin

PROCEDURE

1 ask the client to remove any jewelry and store it in a safe place.

2 Show the client to the dressing room and offer assistance if needed.

3 place a clean towel across the back of the facial table to prevent the client’s
bare shoulders from coming into contact with the bed.

4, If necessary, help your client get onto the facial bed. place a towel across
the client’s chest and place a coverlet or sheet over the client’s body, folding
the top edge of the towel over it. remove the client’s shoes and tuck the
coverlet around her feet.

5 Fasten head covering.

6 remove lingerie straps.

7 remove client’s makeup.

8 apply cleanser, gently massage to apply, and then remove with damp cotton
pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist, soft towel.

9 remove residue with toner on a damp cotton pad or a soft sponge.

10 Focus steam on the face and allow steaming for five minutes.

11 during or after steaming, apply a mild granular exfoliating product designed

for dry skin. gently massage with light circular movements. remove with damp
cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist, soft towel.
12 apply eye cream under the client’s eyes.

13 apply a moisturizing lotion, cream, or massage product designed for dry skin.

14 Massage the skin with manipulations.

15 If massage cream is used, remove with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or
a warm, moist, soft towel.

16 If you are not using electrotherapy, proceed to step 18.

17 a, electrotherapy Option 1, galvanic treatment: apply ionized specialized

serum, gel, or lotion. apply galvanic current as directed by the manufacturer or
your instructor.

b, electrotherapy Option 2, high-frequency Indirect Current treatment: use

high-frequency machine as directed by the manufacturer or your instructor.
have the client hold the electrode in his or her hand. perform manipulations,
using the indirect method of high frequency, for seven to ten minutes. do not
lift your hands from the client’s face. turn off high-frequency machine.

18 apply additional moisturizing or specialty product for dry skin with slow
massage movements.

19 Starting at the neck and using a soft mask brush, apply a soft- setting cream
or hydrating gel mask. Make sure you remove the mask from its container with
a clean spatula. Mask should be applied from the center outward.

20 apply cold cotton eye pads. Allow the mask to process for seven to ten
minutes. Make sure client is comfortable and warm.

21 remove the mask with warm, wet cotton pads, sponges, or warm, moist, soft
towels.

22 apply toner for dry skin with cotton pads.

23 apply moisturizer or sunscreen designed for dry skin.

24 When the service is completed, remove the head covering and show the
client to the dressing room, offering assistance if needed.

SERVICE TIP

For dry skin, avoid using lotions with drying alcohols, such as isopropyl alcohol
or SD alcohol.
FACIAL FOR OILY SKIN
| WITH OPEN
COMEDONES
(BLACKHEADS)
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS

In addition to the items needed for the Basic Facial, you will also need:

Desincrustation gel or lotion

galvanic or high- frequency machine, depending on treatment
gloves
Serum, mask, and toner for oily skin

PROCEDURE

1 ask the client to remove any jewelry and store it in a safe place.

2 Show the client to the dressing room and offer assistance if needed.

3 place a clean towel across the back of the facial table to prevent the client’s
bare shoulders from coming into contact with the bed.

4, If necessary, help your client get onto the facial bed. place a towel across
the client’s chest and place a coverlet or sheet over the client’s body, folding
the top edge of the towel over it. remove the client’s shoes or slippers and tuck
the coverlet around her feet. Some salons provide disposable slippers that can
be worn to and from the dressing room.

5 Fasten head covering.

6 remove lingerie straps.

7 remove client’s makeup.

8 apply cleanser designed for oily skin, gently massage to apply, and then
remove with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist, soft towel.

9 remove residue with a damp cotton pad or a soft sponge. do not tone at this
time.

10 Focus steam on the face and allows teaming for five minutes.

11 during or after steaming, apply a mild granular exfoliating product designed

for oily or combination skin. gently massage with light circular movements.
remove with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist, soft towel.

12 apply a Desincrustation lotion or gel to any area with clogged pores.

Negative galvanic current may be applied over this lotion, depending on the
manufacturer’s instructions. the lotion should generally remain on the skin for
five to eight minutes, again, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.
remove the preparation with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm,
moist, soft towel.

13a apply latex gloves prior to performing extractions. Apply damp cotton pads
to the client’s eyes to avoid exposure to the glaring light from the magnifying
lamp. Cover your fingertips with cotton, and (using the magnifying lamp) gently
pressing out open comedones. place your middle fingers on either side of the
comedone or clogged pore, stretching the skin. push your fingers down to
reach underneath the follicle, and then gently squeeze. apply the same
technique to all sides of the follicle. as an alternative, you may
use the same techniques using cotton swabs.

SERVICE TIP

Some people are allergic to latex or rubber. Check with your client to
determine whether such an allergy exists and, if so, make a note on the client
card. Then proceed, using vinyl gloves. Latex is also used in some facial
sponges, so be sure to use cotton pads on clients with latex allergies.

13b do not extract for more than five minutes for the entire face. Never
squeeze with bare fingers or fingernails! If galvanic Desincrustation was
performed prior to extraction, apply positive galvanic current to the face after
extractions are complete. this will help to re-establish the proper ph of the skin
surface.
14 after extraction is complete, apply an astringent lotion, a toner for oily skin,
or a specialized serum designed to be used following extraction. allow the skin
to dry.

15 unfold gauze across the face and apply direct high frequency using the
mushroom-shaped electrode, according to the machine manufacturer’s
directions.

16 extremely oily or clogged skin should not be massaged. If the skin is very
clogged, proceed to step 17. If skin is not extremely clogged, apply a hydration
fluid or massage fluid designed for oily and combination skin, and perform
massage manipulations.

17 using a mask brush, apply a clay-based mask to all oily areas.todry areas,
such as the eye and neck areas, you may choose to apply a gel mask for
dehydrated skin. allow the mask to process for about ten minutes. do not allow
the mask to over dry so that it cracks.

18 remove the mask with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, orawarm, moist, soft
towel.

19 apply toner for oily skin with cotton pads.

20 apply moisturizer or sunscreen designed for oily or combination skin.

21 When the service is completed, remove the head covering and show the
client to the dressing room, offering assistance if needed.
 FACIAL FOR ACNE
PRONE & PROBLEM
SKIN
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS

In addition to the items needed for the Basic Facial, you will also need:

Antibacterial clay or sulfur mask

Desincrustation gel or lotion
galvanic or high-frequency machine, depending on treatment
gloves
Specialized fluids, serums, and toners for acne-prone skin

SERVICE TIP

When treating acne-prone skin, disposable gloves should be worn throughout

the treatment.

PROCEDURE

1 ask the client to remove any jewelry and store it in a safe place.

2 Show the client to the dressing room and offer assistance if needed.

3 place a clean towel across the back of the facial table to prevent the client’s
bare shoulders from coming into contact with the bed.

4, If necessary, help your client get onto the facial bed. place a towel across
the client’s chest and place a coverlet or sheet over the client’s body, folding
the top edge of the towel over it. remove the client’s shoes or slippers and tuck
the coverlet around her feet.

5 Fasten head covering.

6 remove lingerie straps.

7 remove client’s makeup.

8 apply cleanser designed for oily/acne-prone skin, gently massage to apply,

and then remove with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist soft
towel.

9 remove residue with damp cotton pad or soft sponge. do not tone at this
time.

10 Focus steam on the face and allow steaming for five minutes.

11 apply a Desincrustation lotion or gel to any area with pimples or clogged

pores. Negative galvanic current may be applied over this lotion, depending on
the manufacturer’s instructions. the lotion should generally remain on the skin
for five to eight minutes, again, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.
remove the preparation with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm,
moist, soft towel.

12 extract comedones.

13 after extraction is complete, apply an astringent lotion, a toner for oily skin,
or a specialized serum designed for use following extraction. allow the skin to
dry. unfold gauze across the face and apply direct high-frequency using the
mushroom-shaped electrode, as directed by the machine manufacturer and
your instructor.

14 If galvanic Desincrustation was performed prior to extraction, apply positive

galvanic current to the face after extractions are complete. this will help to re-
establish the proper ph of the skin surface.

15 acne-prone skin should not be massaged.

16 using a mask brush, apply an antibacterial or sulfur-based mask to all oily

and acne-prone areas. to dry skin, such as the eye and neck areas, you may
choose to apply a gel mask for dehydrated skin. allow the mask to process for
about ten minutes. do not allow the mask to over dry so that it cracks.

17 remove the mask with damp cotton pads, soft sponges, or a warm, moist,
soft towel.

18 apply toner for oily skin with cotton pads.

19 apply specialized lotion or sunscreen designed for oily or acne -prone skin.

20 When the service is completed, remove the head covering and show the
client to the dressing room, offering assistance if needed.
 HOLISTIC FACIAL
ROUTINE
Prepare work area, sterilize equipment and gather client’s record card.
Carry out a thorough consultation
Prepare client for treatment
Remove all eye make-up and lipstick
Cleanse twice
Apply heat – hot towel
Deep cleanse - exfoliation
Massage – 3 parts
Apply mask (Optional) using mask brush (Remove with hot water and
sponges)
Tone and moisturize, apply eye cream and lip balm

THE MASSAGE SEQUENCE

Holistic facials massage comprises of three parts:

Lymphatic drainage and pressure points

Massage to décolleté and face
Pressure points, drainage and massage to the scalp

Drainage movements should be light, slow and precise draining towards the
nearest lymph nodes

Pressure points treatment should be slow and precise. The thumb, finger or
fingers are used to apply pressure to a specified point. To apply this technique
correctly, pressure should be applied as you breathe out. Working in time with
your breathing will help regulate your movements.

This routine use generalized pressure points, but more specific ones can be
incorporated or appropriate.

1. Lymphatic drainage and pressure points to the face, neck and décolleté
(10 minutes
 All movements are repeated 3 times
Follow all pressure points with a drainage move
Place hands on client.
– Place fingers next to each other and apply pressure points from eyebrows
into hairline x 3
– Slide fingers along skin and up forehead along the same line x 3
– Place fingers to sides of the nose and work from nose, under the cheek bone
out to the ear
– Place the fingers under the jaw line and work across the jawbone up to the
ear
– Place fingers at the base of the neck and work up the neck to the jawbone,
and repeat at the back of the neck
– Place the thumbs in the middle of the forehead and slide out as far as the
temples
– From the temples pressure points down sides of cheek
– Using thumb pressure stroke down sides of nose and under eye socket
– Place thumbs on bridge of nose and slide down the nose
– Place your finger on point 11 and hold of 10 seconds
– Place your finger on point 12 and hold of 10 seconds
– Place your finger on point 13 and hold of 10 seconds
– Follow under cheekbone and work out to the ear
– Apply pressure working along each eyebrow using a finger and thumb x 3
– Using thumb and finger slide along eyebrow to drain x 3
– Place your finger on point 12 and hold of 10 seconds

2. Massage to décolleté and face (15 minutes)

Apply massage medium to face, neck and shoulder
Firmly press on chest and begin to massage
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Petrissage deltoids
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Petrissage trapezius
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Turn head to side and effleurage neck x 6
– Turn head to other side and effleurage neck x 6
– Petrissage trapezius
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Effleurage face X 6
– Alternate stroking over mandible X 6
– Whipping of mandible
– Tapotement of mandible
– Cheek lift over zygomatic bone
– Petrissage chin, upper lip and cheeks X 4
– Stroking of nose – cross over X 6
– Eye circling x 6
– Stroking of forehead
– Cross friction of forehead
– Repeat 12-21
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Facial prayer x 4
– Fan x 6
– Eye circling and eyebrow lift x 4
– Effleurage face X 6
– Effleurage round deltoids and trapezius x 6
– Vibrations to neck
– Facial prayer x
– Finish at temples with slight pressure

3. Pressure points, drainage and massage to the scalp (5 minutes)

Slide fingers to the ears. Gently massage earlobes with fingertips working
up and around the ear cartilage
From top of the ear work the fingers on to the scalp. Using pressure points
movements work over the scalp, pumping to stimulate the lymph nodes.
Massage the scalp – cover as much of the scalp as possible. To finish run
the fingers through the hair using a slow stroking action. Should the client
not have any hair, place the hands on the head and hold.
 FACIAL MASSAGE
Step 1: Effleurage
Apply massage cream to chest and use upward and outward strokes across
upper chest, up through the neck, across the chin and up onto the cheeks.
Circle around the outer corners of the eyes then up and out through the
forehead.

Step 2: Petrissage
Starting in the centre of the forehead in between the eyes, crisscross fingers
as you massage towards the hairline. Repeat to middle of the forehead,
toward bridge of nose. Cross over right eyebrow to Temple. Return to same
spot by hairline. Repeat entire process over left eyebrow to the left temple.

Step 3: Circular Outward Movements

Using your fingertips, create outward circular movements on forehead above
each eye. At the temple, reverse the circular movement, and move toward the
nose, under the eyes, until you reach the bridge of the nose.

Step 4: Effleurage – Step Up

With your middle finger on the side of the nose, use the pads of your index
finger to apply slight pressure, “stepping up” the bridge of the nose to the
corrugator.

Step 5: Effleurage
Place the thumb of one hand on the centre of client’s forehead. With index
finger of other hand make a large “Figure 8” around the eyes. Repeat three
times. Switch hands and repeat entire process.

Step 6: Effleurage-2 Circles

Circle the eyes once. Cross over right eyebrow to temple. Make second circle
around the forehead. Repeat the two-step procedure twice.

Step 7: Tapotement
Perform “piano” light tapping massage movement around the eyes and then
around the cheeks.
Step 8: Vibration
Using the fingertips, create rapid zigzag movements across the forehead to
help relax muscles.

Step 9: Effleurage Full Circle

Using the middle fingers of both hands, circle the client’s face, first moving
down towards the chin, then outward and upward onto the cheeks. Your
fingers should go outside the eyebrows, with your hands meeting at the centre
of the forehead. Repeat twice, ending with
fingers at the chin.

Step 10: Kneading

Using knuckles in circular movements, apply light pressure on the cheeks and
jaw to help improve circulation.

Step 11: Effleurage

Using middle fingers, perform circular movements around the eyes. Repeat 3 to
5 times

Step 12: Effleurage

Transition hands from Step 11 by gently moving fingers back to the cheeks using
circular movements. Move up the bridge of the nose, then around eyes

Step 13: Effleurage

Repeat Step 9, using the middle fingers of both hands, circle the client’s face,
first moving down towards the chin, then outward and upward onto the
cheeks. With the fingers should go outside the eyebrows. Hands will meet at
centre of the foreheads. Repeat twice, ending with fingers at the chin.

Step 14: Effleurage

Using you full fingers, stroke downwards from the chin line down through the
shoulders.

Step 15: Kneading

Knead cheeks and along the jaw down the platysma. On the back of neck,
continue with tapotement, rolling, and pinching downwards from base of neck
to base of shoulders.
Step 16: Tapotement
Roll and tap on the cheeks, then on the forehead. Transition around the eyes,
around the chin and move to step up.

Step 17: Effleurage – Step Up

With your middle finger on the side of the nose, use the pads of your index
finger to apply slight pressure, “stepping up” the bridge of the nose to the
corrugator.

Step 18: Lymph Nodes of the face

Gently pump the lymph nodes towards the head.

Step 19: Effleurage

Return to chest area, stroking down from chin to chest. Stroke across chest
again, then use upward and outward strokes across upper chest, up through
the neck, across the chin and up onto the cheeks. Circle around the outer
corners of the eyes then up and out through the forehead.

Step 20: SHIATSU

Finish by applying light pressure to pressure points.

Reference Motor Points Massage diagram, above right.

Apply pressure with balls of fingers. End with light effleurage around the
temples, then with gentle pressure on the temples. Application of a mask
(optional) (10 minutes)

The most appropriate time to apply a mask will depend on the products being
used. Traditionally the mask is applied after the massage, allowing the client
time to relax. Some products may recommend application before the massage
to deepen the effects of cleansing. The mask can be applied direct to the skin
without removing the massage medium.

Apply the mask, working from the bottom of the neck, upwards onto the face.
Apply to the face, leaving a gap around the hairline, nostril, mouth and eyes
(unless the mask is suitable to apply in the eye area). Cover the eyes with
damp cotton wool discs and pull the towel or blanket up over the client’s
shoulders to keep them warm. You may give the client a hand and arm
massage to aid further relaxation.
Removing the Mask

The client may now be in a deeply relaxed state or even asleep. Don’t surprise
them, just place on hand on the client’s shoulder so that they are aware you
are there and then gently telling the client you are going to remove the mask.
Start at the bottom of the neck and work up the face. You may use, damp
cotton wool, sponges but it is really nice and relaxing to use hot flannels. Make
sure that the entire mask has been removed.

Tone and Moisturize

Freshen the skin with a suitable toner; this will also make sure that the skin is
clean and free from any traces of the massage medium or mask if used. Blot
the skin dry and apply a suitable moisturizer. This will give the skin protection.
Warm the moisturizer in your hands before you apply it to the skin and apply
with effleurage movements up and over the face. Blot the skin if there is any
excess cream in order to remove any shine.

Remove the headband if used and slowly sit your client up. Leave them to sit
for a few minutes and offer them a glass of water. The client may then get
dressed, sit down with client and give them aftercare advice.

SHIATSU SEQUENCE

Although the essence of shiatsu combines diagnosis and therapy, you may
use an effective basic routine without an in-depth knowledge of the theories
and diagnostic techniques if you are willing to focus and develop sensitivity to
your partner's energy. A general shiatsu sequence lasting seventy-five minutes
or so may enhance well ness and assist recovery from illness by positively
stimulating the immune system and natural healing abilities without diagnosing
and treating a specific problem. No lubricants or scents are used in shiatsu,
and music is employed only if it does not interfere with the coordination of
breath and compressions.

PRESS POINTS ON THE FACE AND HEAD

With your partner lying supine on the mat, sit or kneel at his head and place
your fingers A on each side of the head.
Use your thumbs to press from the midpoint between his eyebrows toward his
hairline (about four to six compressions, about a fingertip distance apart),
leaning gently into you r thumbs on each exhalation (photo A). Then continue
compressions to the crown of his head (the bladder meridian). Place your index
fingers on each side of the bridge of his nose and press toward the bridge (the
eye brightener point). Then press with your fingers from the medial eyebrows
across his brow to the point where his ear meets his face (photo B) This small
indentation at the side of the face in front of the ear is useful for relieving
headaches. Using your fingers press from the bridge of his nose along the bone
below his eye (bladder meridian) toward his temples.

Starting with an index finger on either side of his nose crease, press just below
his cheekbone on the liver and stomach meridians and out to his ear (photo C)
Immediately below his pupil along this line is a stomach point called Facial
Beauty which is very useful for relieving sinus pain and congestion. Pause here
for a few breaths if that is an issue. End the thumbing at the lateral face
indentation in front of his ear (noted earlier) that may relieve headaches with
sustained (a few breaths) pressure.

Press one thumb or index finger in the area between your partner's top lip and
his nose (photo D) on the point called the Middle of a Person on the governing
vessel meridian, which is thought to relieve pain, revive consciousness, and
reduce fainting and dizziness.

Starting at the center of his chin, pinch along his jaw line laterally to the lateral
angle of his jaw. When you arrive at the angle of his jaw, compress or provide
friction at the masseter muscle, addressing the Jaw Chariot point on the
stomach meridian, which may help with stress, jaw and tooth pain, and TMJ
problems.

Hope for Homeostasis

Treating the body as a whole with shiatsu helps restore the optimal
nervous, circulatory, glandular, and metabolic system functions and
stimulates homeostasis, D a harmony of mind and body. The energetic
balancing essence of shiatsu promotes overall balance of mind, body,
and spirit, with resultant wellness
STRETCH AND MASSAGE THE NECK

With one hand on your partner's occiput, stretch his neck to the left and
compress his right shoulder at the Shoulder Well, a point on the gallbladder
meridian midway between the point of the shoulder and the neck, toward his
feet (photo E). Hold for a few breaths and repeat on the other side. fingers
parallel to his spine. Gently lift your partner's head off the mat, tilting his chin
slightly toward his chest which stretches the bladder meridian in the posterior
neck. Holding your fingers on the occipital ridge at the base of his skull, lean
back and create length in his neck and bladder meridian. Rest the backs of
your hands on the mat and

Roll your fingers in a wave-like action up his makes mall circles just lateral to
his spine, neck, starting at the base and lifting your fingers against the back of
the neck, and then pull them toward you and repeat, gradually moving up and
down his neck from the occipital ridge to his shoulders, following the bladder
meridian.

WARNING!

Be sure you know whether your partner is wearing rigid contact lenses and
have him remove them or avoid contact in this hold. Place both palms over his
eyes, resting gently, why our finger towards the bridge of his nose. Hold for
several breaths. This is very restful for the eyes and is especially important if
you notice a lot of eye movement under the lids.
BENEFITS OF SHIATSU

Provides deep muscle relaxation

Reduces osteoarthritis pain
Reduces stress and anxiety
Releases toxins from the body
Provides general well ness through energy (qi) balancing
Increases flexibility
Improves blood and lymph circulation
Reduces blood pressure
Reduces PMS symptoms
Improves sleep and reduces fatigue
Reduces muscle and joint pain
Increases mental and spiritual awareness
Improves digestion
Eases depression
Assists in recovery from injuries
Provides general well-being and pleasure
 AFTERCARE
It is very important to give your client clear instructions about what to expect
and what to do at home in order to get the best from their treatments. This will
help prolong the effects of the treatment.

It is essential to emphasize the importance of aftercare; clients must be

provided with clear written aftercare instructions to prevent adverse reactions
and know how to deal with them.

They must also have an appreciation of the importance of regular services and
be given the opportunity to purchase skin care products. It is always good
practice to give your clients a leaflet explaining the advice, this way you make
sure they know and understand what to expect.

Explain to the client the following points:

Use the correct products for their skin type

Cleanse, tone and moisturize very day
Exfoliate regularly
Avoid using harsh soaps and products on the skin
Always use a good sun protector
Eat a healthy and stable diet to help the nails grow to their best
If a reaction occurs and does not clear up in 24 hours, then please consult
your doctor
If their skin is prone to spots and blemishes, a few additional spots may be
noticed
Avoid make up for eight hours at least
Advice the client about further treatments that may benefit them

Advice the client to have regular facials to maximize benefits, taking into
consideration financial constraints and time – recommend the following:
* Treatment for specific problems once a week for six weeks
* up to age 25, once a season
* 25+ minimum once a month

And finally ask the clients for feedback on the treatment; fill in their record
card on your findings and ask when they would like to rebook.
SHARPENING YOUR PERSONAL SKILLS

If a client seems dissatisfied with a facial treatment, check to see if you

have been guilty of any of the following:

Offensive breath or body odour

Rough, cold hands or ragged nails that may have scratched the client’s
skin
Allowing cream or other substances to get into the client’s eyes, mouth,
nostrils, or hairline
Towels that were too hot or too cold
Talking too much
Manipulating the skin roughly or in the wrong direction
Being disorganized and interrupting the facial to get supplies

HOME CARE

Home care is probably the most important factor in a successful skin care
program. The key word here is program. Clients’ participation is essential to
achieve results. A program consists of a long-range plan involving home
care, salon treatments, and client education.

Every new client should receive a thorough consultation regarding proper

home care for his or her skin conditions.

After the first treatment, block out about thirty minutes to explain proper
home care for the client.

After the treatment is finished, have the client sit up in the facial chair, or
invite the client to move to a well-lighted consultation area. A mirror should
be provided for the client, so that he or she can see conditions you will be
discussing.
Explain, in simple terms, the client’s skin conditions, informing the client of
how you propose to treat the conditions. Inform the client about how often
treatments should be administered in the salon, and very specifically explain
what the client should be doing at home.

You should organize the products you want the client to purchase and use.
Explain the use of each one at a time, in the order of use. Make sure to have
written instructions for the client to take home.

It is very important to provide clients with products that you believe in and
that produce results. Retailing products for clients to use at home is very
important for success in the treatment of skin conditions and success in your
business.
Client Forms
 BUSINESS NAME
FACIALS
CLIENT INTAKE YourLogo
APPOINTMENT DATE APPOINTMENT TIME

NEWSLETTER

Occasionally we may send out emails

or newsletters about upcoming
FULL NAME
discounts, promotions, contests,
company information etc. If you would
like to be added to the subscriber list
ADDRESS
please check “Yes” below. If you would
like to opt out please check “No”.
CITY ZIP CODE
YES! Sign me up!

PHONE EMAIL No, thank you.

We will use your e-mail address solely to provide
information about our company. Your
DATE OF BIRTH CURRENT AGE information will not be sold.

WHAT ARE YOUR SKIN CONCERNS?

Age Spots Please Check YES or NO to the following:
Dark Spots
Lines/Wrinkles Do you smoke?
Pimples/Pustules Yes___ No___
Blackheads
Dehydrated Skin Do you go to tanning booths?
Oily Skin Yes___ No___
Scarring
Broken Capillaries Do you spend much time in the sun?
Dry/Flaking Skin Yes___ No___
Permanent Redness
Sensitive Skin Do you pick at your skin?
Cysts Yes___ No___
Flushing
Pigmentation Are you usually stressed?
Whiteheads Yes___ No___

Does your skin breakout? Do you exercise?

Yes___ No___
Almost Always
Frequently Do you use fabric softener?
Rarely Yes___ No___
Never
Are you trying to get pregnant?
Have you ever been diagnosed with acne rosacea? Yes___ No___
Yes___ No___
Are you pregnant?
Have you ever been diagnosed with rosacea? Yes___ No___
Yes___ No___ Please Initial
 BUSINESS NAME
FACIALS
SKIN CONSULTATION YourLogo

FULL NAME DATE

LIFESTYLE QUESTIONS Fillers or injectables? Yes___ No___

Do you suffer from any of the following? **If yes, please answer:
Time since last treatment: _____________
Bloating How long have you been receiving ? ______
Constipation How frequently do you receive? ________
Diarrhea
Gas Glycolic Peels? Yes___ No___
Indigestion **If yes, please answer:
Time since last treatment: _____________
Do you regularly eat any of the following? How long have you been receiving? ______
How frequently do you receive? ________
Dairy Products
Milk/Cheese Plastic Surgery? Yes___ No___
Sushi **If yes, please answer:
Fast Food Time since last treatment: _____________
Pasta How long have you been receiving? ______
Kelp How frequently do you receive? ________
White Bread
Seaweed Skin Cancer Removal? Yes___ No___
**If yes, please answer:
Have you received any of the following? Time since last treatment: _____________
How long have you been receiving? ______
Corrective Peels? Yes___ No___ How frequently do you receive? ________
**If yes, please answer:
Time since last treatment: _____________ Laser Resurfacing? Yes___ No___
How long have you been receiving? ______ **If yes, please answer:
How frequently do you receive? ________ Time since last treatment: _____________
How long have you been receiving? ______
Laser Hair Removal? Yes___ No___ How frequently do you receive? ________
**If yes, please answer:
Time since last treatment: _____________ Are you under a dermatologists care?
How long have you been receiving ? Yes___ No___
How frequently do you receive? ________ If yes, which dermatologist and why:
_________________________________
Microdermabrasion? Yes___ No___
**If yes, please answer: Please list any supplements you take:________
Time since last treatment: _____________ _________________________________
How long have you been receiving? ______
How frequently do you receive? _________

Please Initial
 BUSINESS NAME
FACIALS
MEDICAL QUESTIONNAIRE YourLogo

FULL NAME DATE

ALLERGIES

Latex Allergy Have you taken any of the following in the last 6
Sulphur Allergy months?
Glycolic
Salicylic Antibiotics for acne
Shellfish Antidepressants
Aspirin Antihistamines
Skin Care Allergies Birth control Pill
Cyclosporin
Do you suffer from the following? Danazol
Differin
Asthma Dilantin
Cancer Disulfram
Contagious disease Gonadptropin
Depression HR Therapy
Auto Immune Imuran
Diabetes Isonaziad
Eczema/Psoriasis Izonazaid
Endometriosis Lithium
Phlebitis/Thrombosis Recreational Drugs
Melanoma Retin A
Epilepsy Roaccutane
Gut Disorder Steroids
Heart Condition Testosterone
High Blood Pressure Thyroid Medication
Low Blood Pressure IVF supplementation
Meatal Prosthesis
Metal Implant If yes to any of the above, please state medications
Polycystic Ovaries & for how long:

If you have ever been on Roaccutane, how long and how long since last use:

If you have ever had IVF, how long ago and how long for:

Please Initial
 BUSINESS NAME
FACIALS
CONSENT YourLogo

FULL NAME DATE

CURRENT ROUTINE CONSENT

Please list any of the products you currently use: I give consent to have the following
treatment(s) performed:
Cleanser____________________________ AM___
PM___ ☐Yes ☐No HydraFacial
Toner______________________________ AM___ ☐Yes ☐No Dermaplaning
PM___ ☐Yes ☐No Eminence Organics Facial
Serums_____________________________AM___ ☐Yes ☐No Roccoco Botanicals Facial
PM___ ☐Yes ☐No Nano-Needling
Moisturizer__________________________AM___ ☐Yes ☐No Celluma LED Therapy
PM___ ☐Yes ☐No Microcurrent
Eye care____________________________ AM___ ☐Yes ☐No Ultrasound
PM___ ☐Yes ☐No Galvanic Current
SPF_______________________________AM___ PM___ ☐Yes ☐No Lymphatic Drainage
Exfoliant___________________________Weekly:
_____
Mask______________________________Weekly: _____ I certify that the preceding medical, personal
and skin history statements are true and
Products correct. I am aware that it is my responsibility
__________________________________Primer to inform the technician, aesthetician,
__________________________________Foundation therapist, doctor or nurse of my current
__________________________________ medical or health conditions and to update
Concealer this history. A current medical history is
__________________________________Setting essential for the caregiver to execute
Powder __________________________________ appropriate treatment procedures.
Blush/Bronzer __________________________________
Setting Spray __________________________________
Shampoo / Conditioner
__________________________________ Client Name:_________________________
Hair Treatments
__________________________________ Client Signature:______________________
If you currently go to a hair dresser, how often?
__________________________________ Date:______________
 BUSINESS NAME
FACIALS
PRE & POST TREATMENT YourLogo
PRE & POST CARE
For best results, please follow these instructions

Thank you for visiting us today for your facial treatment. We pride ourselves on 5 star service and aftercare. It is
important to follow the below guidelines in order for your results to look fabulous but also last as long as possible.

Facial Pre Care Advice:

Discontinue the use of any Isotretinoin products (such as Accutane) for 6months before treatment.
Discontinue the use of topical Retin-A or generic tretinoin for at least 48 hrs. prior to your treatment.
Refrain from any type of exfoliating treatments such as glycolic acid or enzymes to the area for 48 hours before
your Hydrafacial treatment.
Refrain from any medium and/or deep chemical resurfacing treatments (peels) and laser treatments for 2 weeks
before your Hydrafacial treatment.
Refrain from waxing and use of depilatories for 48 hours before treatment.
Discontinue use of over-the-counter acne medications such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid for 48 hours
before treatment.
Avoid excessive sun exposure as well as the use of artificial tanning beds for 72 hours before treatment.
Wait 1 week after Botox and 2 weeks after fillers to undergo a treatment. Botox and fillers can be given on the
same day but after your Hydrafacial.
For men, shaving is not recommended on the day of the treatment. If you choose to shave, please shave at least 3-
4 hours prior to your treatment.

Facial Aftercare Advice

Avoid excessive sun exposure as well as the use of artificial tanning beds for 72 hours after the treatment. Use
minimum SPF30 sunscreen post treatment.
Discontinue the use of topical Retin-A or generic tretinoin for at least 48 hours after treatment.
Refrain from waxing and use of depilatories for 48 hours after treatment.
Refrain from any medium and/or deep chemical resurfacing treatments (peels) and laser treatments for 2 weeks
after Hydrafacial.
Refrain from any type of exfoliating treatments such as glycolic acid or enzymes to the area for 48 hours after
your Hydrafacial.
Discontinue use of over-the-counter acne medications such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid for 48 hours
after treatment.
Avoid heat (hot showers, sauna and intense cardio) for 24 hours after treatment.

If you do not need to apply make-up for the remainder of the day it is recommended (on the day of your treatment).
For optimum results we recommend a Hydrafacial every 4 weeks. For those with Acne skin conditions we recommend
every 2 weeks to help improve the skin texture and calm down the inflammation of the breakouts. Once the skin is
cleared treatment is recommended every 4 weeks.

We are always on hand to help provide advice or information if you require so contact us on social media or on our
booking phone line if required.

We can't wait to see you soon for your next treatment.

 THE FITZPATRICK SCALE
The Fitzpatrick Skin Scale is a way of classifying skin types with specific reference to the risk of
sunburn and skin cancer. According to this scale, there are six types of skin, ranging from very light
(type 1) to very dark (type 6).

SKIN TYPE 1 SKIN TYPE 2

Light, pale white, freckled White, peach, fair

Always burns, never tans. Skin will usually burn in the sun
Light blue, light green, light grey eyes and tans with difficulty.
Blue, green, grey eyes

SKIN TYPE 3 SKIN TYPE 4

White to light brown, olive Olive, light to moderate brown

Skin can sometimes burn Skin rarely burns and tans easily.
and will tan gradually. Brown eyes
Hazel, light brown eyes

SKIN TYPE 5 SKIN TYPE 6

Brown, dark brown Very dark brown to black

Very rarely burns and tans very easily. Never burns, tans very easily,
Medium to dark brown eyes deeply pigmented.
Dark brown eyes

WHO IS MOST AT RISK OF SKIN CANCER?

fair red or freckles history of family

skin fair hair or moles sunburn history