Advanced Apparel Design

and
Construction

 Lecture Three
Introduction to sewing Machinery
Sewing Machinery ….
History and development:

A sewing machine is a mechanical (or

electromechanical) device that joins fabric using thread.

Sewing machines make a stitch, called a sewing-machine stitch,

usually using two threads although machines exist that stitch

using one, three, four or more threads.

Sewing Machinery ….
 It was not until 1830 that smaller and more easy to

operate sewing machines came into existence.

 Over time the sewing machine has changed to simplify the

process and reduce the time needed to make high quality

garments.

 The machines now sold can perform a range of tasks; this

includes zig zag stitching, edge finishing, creating button

holes, and a lot more.

Development of Industrial Sewing Machine

industrial sewing machine categories into four types

Basic sewing machines.

Semi-automatic machines.

Automated workstations

Reprogrammable automated systems.

Sewing Machine Beds Types

 FLAT BED  RAISED BED

 POST BED  SIDE BED

 CYLINDER BED  FEED-OFF-THE-ARM BED

FLAT BED

CYLINDER BED

POST BED

FEED-OFF-THE-ARM BED
Flat Bed
Post Bed
Cylinder Bed
The Feed-off-the Arm
Raised Bed Sewing Machine
Side Bed Sewing Machine
5.Sewing Machine Needles:
Needles Selection:

Needles are available in different sizes with different points

for different fabrics.
The needle is determined by the weight of the fabric,
number of layers to be stitched and stitch density.
Needle Parts and Sizes
Needle Size
Needle Points
STITCHES AND SEAM
STITCHES
 What is Stitch ?

 A stitch is one unit of thread resulting from

repeatedly passing strands or loops of thread into or
through a material at uniformly spaced intervals to form
a series of stitches
Few Relevant Definitions:
 Intralooping: The passing of a loop of thread through
another loop formed by the same thread.

 Interlooping: The passing of a loop of thread through

another loop formed by a different thread.

 Interlacing: The passing of a thread over and around

another thread or loop of another thread.
Stitch Properties

 Stitch Size

 Stitch Consistency & Stitch thread tension

Stitch Size

 Stitch Length: is specified as no. of stitches per inch (SPI)

High spi

o Short stitches: High quality

o Potential problems (seam pucker or weaken

fabric).

o Higher spi, the more time and thread, high cost.

Stitch Size

Low spi

o Long stitches: Lower quality

o Problems: Less durable, snagging, abrasion, grin

through

o Fast, less thread, less cost.

Stitch size
 Stitch Width:

Distance between the outermost lines of

stitches.

Refers to the horizontal span covered in

the formation of Stitch.

Width dimensions require multiple needles

or lateral movement of thread carriers:
Stitch size

 Depth:

Distance between the upper and lower surface of the

stitch

Example:

Blind stitches (Curved needle with lateral

movement
Stitch Thread Tension

Stitch consistency

 The uniformity with which each stitch is formed in a row

of stitches.

 There must be a compatibility of fabric, stitch and seam

type, needle, thread, and machine setting.
Stitch Thread Tension

Thread tension

Thread tension affects stitch formation in 2 ways:

The balance of force on the threads that form the stitch.

The degree of compression on the fabric created by the

threads as a stitch is formed.
 Stitch Thread Tension

Too much tension, a tight thread causes:

Seam pucker, uneven stitches, unbalanced stitch

formation weekend thread, and potentially damaged
fabric.

Too little tension causes:

 Excessive looping or loose and uneven stitches.

 Must have some tension in order for the stitch to form

properly.
Main Stitch Forming Devices:

a) Needle

b) Hook (Bobbin)

c) Looper

d) Spreader
Stitch Types
There are two basic stitch formations, lock stitch and chain
stitch, with a number of variations in each type.
Lockstitch Chain stitch

Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook

* Domestic * Industrial

Rotary looper Oscillating looper

* Button Stitching
Overlock
Coverstitch
Stitch Classifications
Classified by US Federal Standards Based on common kinematic
principle of stitch construction,

1. Class 100 - Single thread chain stitch

2. Class 200 - Hand stitch

3. Class 300 - Lock stitch - Hook & bobbin

4. Class 400 - Multi thread chain stitch - Looper

5. Class 500 - Overedge and safety chain stitch

6. Class 600 - Cover stitch - Similar to 400, but with top cover
Stitch Classification

 Stitch class 100…..has varieties=7

 Stitch class 200 …..has varieties=13

 Stitch class 300 …..has varieties=27

 Stitch class 400 …..has varieties=17

 Stitch class 500 …..has varieties=15

 Stitch class 600 …..has varieties=9

 Total stitches available=88

CLASS 100 SINGLE THREAD CHAIN STITCH

 The class 100 chain stitches are formed when 1 or

more needle threads pass through the fabric and
form a loop on the underside of the fabric.

 No lower thread !

 Loop formation allows good elongation and stretch and

makes unraveling easy
CLASS 100 SINGLE THREAD CHAIN STITCH

 Description Simple chain stitches, intralooped

 Cost Very inexpensive

 Durability Flexible/extensible

 Appearance Plain on face, single chain on back

 Comfort Less comfortable than 300

 Limitations Unravels too easily for use in quality

apparel, used for temporary stitching

 Special features Uses only one thread

 Stitch Type 101
Formed with one thread introduced from one side of
the material only.

APPLICATION:

Basting,
Under side
Button Sewing, Face side

Spot Tacking,

Bag Closing,

Button Hole & Decorative Stitching.

 Stitch Type 103

Commonly known as a single thread blind

hemming or felling stitch.

APPLICATION:
Under side
Hemming,

Belt Loops,

Padding Operations.
Stitch Type 104

Widely used for attaching

buttons, snap fasteners,
trouser cuff tacks, etc
Stitch Class-200(Hand Stitch)
 Description Hand stitches/machine simulations, one
thread up and down through fabric

 Cost Expensive compared to machine stitches

 Durability: Machine is more durable

 Appearance: Machine is more uniform, hand may be less

noticeable

 Limitations: Decorative and specialty uses, not used for

structural seams

 Special features : Most are made on specialty machines

Stitch Type 209

Is a machine made version of traditional hand stitching.

Face side Under side

Stitch Type 300 Class (Lockstitch)

Formed by a needle interlacing with

an under thread supplied from
bobbin.
 Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch)

 Description Lockstitches,

 Cost Higher labor costs due to bobbin replenishment.

 Durability Strong, not very extensible

 Appearance Seams do not grin but tend to pucker, reversible

 Comfort Very comfortable, flat, non bulky

 Limitations Bobbin replenishment, low productivity,

 Special features Hard to unravel, most widely used

 Stitch Type 301
 Does not unravel easily,
 Poor extention.
 Stitch is reversible
 Uses least amount of thread
 Excellent seam security
 Lower productivity
 More susceptible to thread breaks
 Used in wide range of end uses (high
versatility).
 Stitch Type 304

Commonly referred to as the Zigzag Lockstitch.

Needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed.

Stitch Type 304 properties

Used to sew athletic wear

Appliqués, attach lace on lingerie.

Decorative stitching.

Used to make bar tacks and Buttonholes.

Has better extension.

Used mostly on lingerie , foundation wear and underwear,

where a secure seam with good extension is required
Class 308 and 315

Types 308 (two successive stitches) and 315 (three

successive stitches) form a longer and wider zigzag.

Formation of the 308 and 315 is comparatively slow, and

thus they are used primarily for better apparel.

 Class 300- Lockstitch, other types

 Lockstitch blind stitches (306, 313,

314)

 Uses:

◦ For linings, the inside

components of waist bands for
men’s dress slacks.
 Class 400- Multithread chain stitch
Class 400 multithread chain stitch is formed with two or
more group of threads having a general characteristics the
interlacing and interloping of the loops of two groups.
 Class 400- Multithread chain stitch
 Description Multithread chain stitches, interlooped

 Cost Labor costs less than 300 but requires more thread

 Durability Strong, more extensible than 300

 Appearance less likely to pucker than 300.

 Comfort Slightly less comfortable than 300 unless soft thread

is used, bulkier than 300

 Limitations Can abrade, catch, and unravel easily

 Special features Gets combined with 500 in most safety stitches

Stitch Type 401
 Two thread chain stitch
N

Higher seam strength and seam stretch than a

L
lock stitch
 Higher productivity
 Seam runback (unraveling) is a big problem
 Seam security not as good as lock stitch
 Increased bulk under the seam
 Used for joining trouser panels, riser seams
and felled seams in jeans.
 The 402 cording stitch
 2 needle threads that produce two parallel rows of
stitching on the face of the fabric.

 Used for stitching permanent creases

The 404 Zigzag chain stitch
 Two-thread chain stitch.

 uses for:

Decorative stitching

Attaching curtain to the inside of the waist band.

L
The 406 and 407 cover seam stitches
Stitch Type 406

Excellent extension, easy to unravel.

 Gives very good extension, and is mostly used to cover a raw
edge in the fabric after the fabric has been hemmed etc.

N1
N2

L
Stitch Type 407

N1

N2
N3

L
Class 500-Overedge stitch

 The 500 overedge stitch (=Overedge,

overlock, serge, overcast, or merrow)

 High thread users and stretch.

Stitch Type-503

Top View

Bottom View
Stitch Type-503

Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread with

purl on edge of seam for serging or blind hemming ONLY.
Stitch Type 504

L1

L2
Stitch Type 504
 3 thread overlock
 Has excellent extention and does not unravel easily.
 Used for serging to stop fabric fraying, and
 For joining 2 or more plies together.
 Seam security could be a problem.
 Bulky seams
Stitch Type 512

N1

N2

L1

L2
Stitch Type 512
 Mock safety stitch
 Very good extention,
 will not unravel easy.
 Side seams, join panels, attach sleeves, join
shoulders etc.
 512 is more secure than 504 (3 thread
overlock) but less secure than 516 (5
thread safety stitch)
Stitch Type 514
 Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper threads
with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the
seam.

 514 – both needles enter the upper looper loop.

N1
N2
L2
L1
Stitch Type-503+401(515)
Top View

Bottom View
Stitch Type-503+401(515)

 Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle chain

stitch (401) and a 2-thread Over edge stitch (503) that are
formed simultaneously.
Stitch Type 516 (504+401)

N1

L1

N2

L2

L3
Stitch Type 516
5 thread safety stitch.
A combination stitch
Good extention, very strong.
Used for
joining panels where seam stretch is critical
 or joining seams where security of
seam is important. Jeans (inside legs)
side seams and sleeves on shirts, overalls etc.
High seam elasticity
Class 500-Overedge stitch

 Odd numbered (503 . . . )

 “Break open” stitches.

 uses:

Edge finishes and hems rather than for seams.

 Even numbered stitch types (502, 504, . . . )

 Much tighter needle thread, hold 2 layer fabrics at actual

seam line.
Stitch Class-600(Flat Seam Stitch)

 It is formed with two or more groups of threads and for

general characteristics has two groups cover the raw
edges of both surface of material.
Stitch Class-600(Flat Seam Stitch)
 Description Cover stitches, interlooped

 Cost Labor costs less than 300 but requires more thread

 Durability Very extensible, strong

 Appearance Several threads show face and back, not likely to pucker

 Comfort Less comfortable than 300 unless soft thread

is used, stitch Somewhat bulky but seam often not

 Limitations Stitches flat seams

 Special features Joins overlapped edges, covers top and bottom of

seam simultaneously
Stitch Type 602

N1

N2

L
Stitch Type 602
Used :
as a stitch to cover the joint between binding and the garment
(necks of knits)
as a decorative stitch on night gowns & sweat shirts
for stitching legs of aerobic wear and
straps on swimwear.
to stitch/attach binding to knitted
night gowns. Sweat shirts etc.
Has excellent extension, when a small stitch is used excellent seam
cover is achieved.
Stitch Type 605

N1
N2

N3

L
Stitch Type 605
Used in knitwear, lingerie & under garments.
 High seam elasticity.
 Flat, comfortable seams
 Can also be used as a decorative seam
 Very high thread consumption.
Stitch Type 607

N1
N2
N3
N4

L
Stitch Quality
Thread consumption

Thread consumption could be;

 Amount of thread present in a given garment.

Amount of thread consumed while making one garment

Amount of thread required to complete a given order

quantity
Thread consumption
Thread consumption is affected by,
Stitch type
Seam type
Material thickness
No of fabric plies
Construction
Machine type – UBT
Operator efficiency
SPI