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Frog Sitting

The document provides instructions for crocheting Fritz the Frog. It includes materials needed, abbreviations, instructions to make the head in two parts and join them, instructions to make the body and attach it to the head, and instructions to make a tummy patch. Photos illustrate steps in the process.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
128 views9 pages

Frog Sitting

The document provides instructions for crocheting Fritz the Frog. It includes materials needed, abbreviations, instructions to make the head in two parts and join them, instructions to make the body and attach it to the head, and instructions to make a tummy patch. Photos illustrate steps in the process.

Uploaded by

carina
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Fritz the Frog

Skill level: easy

Abbreviations Materials
ch(s) - chain(s) • 3.5 mm crochet hook (size E)
dc - double crochet • DK, light worsted yarn:
hdc - half double o green: 170 m/ 185 yards
crochet o light yellow: 30 m/32 yards
rnd(s) - round(s) o small amount of white for the eyeballs
sc - single crochet o very small amount of black for embroidering
sc2tog - sc 2 st together nostrils
(= sc decrease) • polyfill to stuff
st(s) - stitch(es) • a pair of 12 mm golden safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• stitchmarker and pins(optional)
Yarn, finished size and gauge
This sample was made with Merino 120 Superwash from Lang Yarns: green # 34.0416 and
light yellow # 34.0049. Finished size: 12.6 inches (32 cm) tall, including stretched legs.
Because this is a pattern for a stuffed animal, gauge is not really important. You can use
any weight yarn, if you make sure that your hook is appropriately sized for your yarn, so
that you get a nice, solid fabric. Using a different size hook and yarn weight will change
the size of your finished project.

Stitches and crochet techniques used


• Single crochet in rounds and in rows, half double crochet and double crochet
• Magic adjustable ring
• Single crochet increasing and decreasing (see tip for invisible sc decrease!)
If you need assistance with learning the basic crochet stitches and how to read a crochet
pattern, visit www.craftyarncouncil.com.

Tip for invisible single crochet decrease


Insert the hook in the front loop of the first stitch and directly in the front loop of the second
stitch (Image 1.1). Yarn over and draw up a loop through the first two (front) loops on
hook, yarn over again and draw through remaining two loops on hook (Image 1.2).
You can use this technique for every sc2tog when working in the round, because the back
of your work will not be visible.

Image 1.1 Image 1.2

Invisible fasten off


Use the invisible fasten off to finish an open part from which the edge will be visible. After
completing your last stitch, cut yarn, leaving a 4” (10 cm) tail. Pull up on hook until the cut
end is drawn through. Thread cut end onto tapestry needle. Insert needle from the front to
the back under both loops of not the first but the second stitch before where you are and
pull through (Image 2.1). Do not draw too tightly. Then stitch back into the middle of the
last stitch you completed. Insert needle from the front to the back under the back loop
only (Image 2.2). Pull the yarn end gently until the loop is the same size as the ‘V’ at the
top of all your other stitches (Image 2.3). Weave the end through several stitches at the
back of your work to secure it.

Image 2.1 Image 2.2 Image 2.3

Fritz the Frog



Pattern instructions
Important notes:
• All parts but the tummy patch are crocheted
in continuous spirals, without joining the rounds.
You can use a stitch marker to keep track of your
rounds.

Head
Top part
Start at the top with magic adjustable ring and green
Image 3 - Work in front loops yarn.
only in rnd 15 Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close
ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6x (18)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (24)
Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (30)
Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (36)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (42)
Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (48)
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (54)
Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6x (60)
Rnd 11-14: sc in each st around (60)
Image 4 - Top part of head Rnd 15: Work this rnd in front loops only (Image 3): sc in
each st around (60)
Rnd 16: sc in next 27 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st,
ch1, 2 dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 27 sts (62
+ ch1)
Invisible fasten off, weave in end. (Image 4)

Bottom part
Start at the bottom with magic adjustable ring and light
yellow yarn
Rnd 1-12: Repeat rnds 1-12 of top part of head.
Fasten off, leave long tail. (Image 5)

Joining head parts


Image 5 - Bottom part of head Place the bottom part on top of the top part, with wrong
sides facing each other. Line up stitches. With tapestry
needle, sew the two parts of the head together. Insert
needle from outside to inside through the remaining
back loops of rnd 15 of the top part and then from the
inside to the outside under both loops of corresponding
st of the bottom part (Image 6). Stop about 8 stitches
before the end and stuff the head. Then finish the
sewing. Weave in end. You have created a rim now,
that forms the mouth of the frog (Image 7).

Image 6 - Joining head parts

Fritz the Frog



Body
Start at the bottom with magic adjustable ring and
green yarn.
Rnd 1-14: Repeat rnds 1-14 of top part of head (60)
Rnd 15: (sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog) 6x (54)
Rnd 16-17: sc in each st around (54)
Rnd 18: (sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog) 3x (51)
Rnd 19: sc in each st around (51)
Rnd 20: (sc in next 15 sts, sc2tog) 3x (48)
Rnd 21: sc in each st around (48)
Rnd 22: (sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog) 3x (45)
Image 7 - Head
Rnd 23: sc in each st around (45)
Rnd 24: (sc in next 13 sts, sc2tog) 3x (42)
Rnd 25: sc in each st around (42)
Rnd 26: (sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog) 3x (39)
Rnd 27-28: sc in each st around (39)
Fasten off, leave long tail. Stuff the body. (Image 8)

Sew the body to the head (Image 11 & 12). Sew 6


stitches to the rim of the head, sew next stitch to the
seam of the head parts, sew next 12 stitches to the 12
rounds of the bottom part of the head until you reach
the center. Sew one stitch to the center, then again next
12 stitches to the 12 rounds of the bottom part of the
Image 8 - Body head and one stitch to the seam of the head parts, sew
the last 6 stitches tot the rim of the head again (39 sts in
total).
Sewing tip for the rim: Insert needle parallel to the
open edge of the body from front to back between
two stitches of the last round and come up on the
other side of the stitch (Image 9). Do the same on the
corresponding stitch on the other side. By working
‘around the post of the stitch’ like this, you will get an
almost seamless join (Image 10).

Image 9 - Sew head to body

Image 10 - Seamless join Image 11 - Head attached Image 12 - Head attached

Fritz the Frog



Tummy patch
This piece is made in back and forth rows. The turning
ch1 at the end of each row does not count as st. Start at
the neck with light yellow yarn.
Row 1: ch9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 7 chs
(8), ch1 & turn
Row 2: sc in each st across (8), ch1 & turn
Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st (10), ch1
& turn
Row 4-5: sc in each st across (10), ch1 & turn
Row 6: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st (12), ch1
Image 13 - Tummy patch
& turn
Row 7-8: sc in each st across (12), ch1 & turn
Row 9: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in last st (14),
ch1 & turn
Row 10-15: sc in each st across (14), ch1 & turn
Row 16: sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog (12), ch1 & turn
Row 17: sc in each st across (12), ch1 & turn
Row 18: sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog (10), ch1 & turn
Row 19: sc in each st across (10), ch1 & turn
Row 20: sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog (8)
Fasten off, leave long tail. Weave in beginning tail.
(Image 13)

Image 14 - Tummy patch Sew edges of tummy patch to rnds 9-28 of the body,
attached with row 1 of the tummy patch at the neck and row 20
at the bottom (Image 14). If you want, you can pin it into
place first.

Eye
Make 2. Each eye consists of an eyeball and an eye
socket part.

Eyeball
Start with magic adjustable ring and white yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close
ring a bit, but leave space to insert the eye posts (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 6x (18)
Invisible fasten off, weave in end.

Fasten eyes to the eyeball, insert posts in the center and


pull magic ring tight around them.

Eye socket
Start with magic adjustable ring and green yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close
ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (15)
Rnd 4: (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (18)
Image 15 - Joining eye parts
Rnd 5: (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (21)
Fritz the Frog

Rnd 6: sc in each st around (21)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) 3x (18)
Invisible fasten off, weave in end.

Joining eye parts with sc


Place the eyeball on top of the eye socket part, with
wrong sides facing each other. Line up stitches. Attach
green yarn with sc to both the eyeball AND the eye
socket (= Begin with slip knot on hook. Insert hook
through both loops of a st of rnd 3 of the eyeball AND
both loops of corresponding st of rnd 7 of the eye
Image 16 - Eyes socket, yarn over (Image 15) and draw up a loop, yarn
over again an pull through both loops.) Sc around in
next 17 sts of both the eyeball and the eye socket. This
B creates a rim as eyelid. Stop about 6 sts before the end
C and stuff the eye. Then finish the crocheting.
Invisible fasten off, leave long tail. Weave in beginning
2 1 3 4 end. (Image 16)

Shape the places where you will attach the eyes onto
the head (Image 17 & 18). Take a 10” (25 cm) long
A piece of green yarn and thread it into tapestry needle.
Insert needle in the bottom center of the head (A) all
the way through the head and come up, between rnds
8 and 9, about 8 sts apart from the midline (B). Do not
pull all the yarn trough but leave a piece of about 3”
Image 17 - Shaping ot head hanging outside and hold this in place. Insert needle
again one st down between rnds 9 and 10 (C) and go
back to bottom center of the head (A). Reinsert needle
in same hole and repeat for the other eye. Then pull
both yarn ends slightly to indent the head. Tie a knot of
both yarn ends and with tapestry needle, insert them in
B
the same hole again, so the knot is encased in the head.
C (Image 19)

Now sew the eyes to rnds 6-11/12 of the head, about


6 sts (of rnd 11) apart from the midline. The top of the
stitches of the rim should stay visible, so sew just below
Image 18 - Shaping of head them. (Image 20 & 21)

Image 19 - Head shaped Image 20 - Eyes attached Image 21 - Eyes attached

Fritz the Frog



Hind foot
Make 2. Each foot has 3 toes.

Toes
Make 3. Start with magic adjustable ring and green yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close
ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 4: (sc2tog) 6x (6)
Image 22 - Toes joined Stuff the toe lightly.
Rnd 5-6: sc in each st around (6)
For first toe: fasten off, weave in end.
For second toe: Rnd 7: sc in each st around (6), fasten
off, weave in end.
For third toe: do not fasten off! You will continue to work
this toe to join all three together for the foot.

Rnd 7: sc in next 3 sts of the toe you are working on.


Then, sc in 3 sts of rnd 7 of the second toe, then sc in all 6
sts of rnd 6 of the first toe. Sc in the remaining 3 sts of the
second toe, then sc in the final 3 sts of the third toe (18)
(Image 22)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around (18)
Image 23 - Rnd 1 of leg Rnd 9: (sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) 3x (15)
Rnd 10: (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 3x (12)
Rnd 11-12: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 13: (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) 3x (9)
Stuff the foot lightly.
Rnd 14: (sc in next st, sc2tog) 3x (6)
Fasten off, with tapestry needle, weave tail through
front loops of remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close.
Weave in end. (Image 27)
You may notice holes between where the toes are
joined. Use a piece of green yarn or the yarn end of the
foot to close up the gaps.

Image 24 - Sc through both Leg


sides Make 2. Start with green yarn. Leave a 4” (10 cm) tail of
yarn before you make your slip knot, to sew the leg to
the foot later on.
Rnd 1: ch 9, sc in first ch to form a ring (Image 23) and sc
in next 8 chs (9)
Rnd 2-6: sc in each st around (9)
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (12)
Rnd 8: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (15)
Rnd 10-11: sc in each st around (15)
Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 3x (12)
Rnd 13: (sc in next st, sc2tog) 4x (8)
Image 25 - Rnd 16, front loops Rnd 14: sc in each st around (8)

Fritz the Frog



Rnd 15: ch 1 (does not count as a st), flatten leg and line
up stitches, sc through both sides to the end (Image 24)
and turn (4)
Rnd 16: ch 1 (does not count as a st), working in front
loops only: sc in next 4 sts (Image 25), turn, sc in each of
the remaining 4 back loops (Image 26) (8)
Rnd 17-18: sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 19: (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 4x (12)
Rnd 20: sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (15)
Rnd 22-25: sc in each st around (15)
Image 26 - Rnd 16, back loops Rnd 26: (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (18)
Rnd 27: sc in each st around (18)
Rnd 28: (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3x (21)
Rnd 29-30: sc in each st around (21)
Rnd 31: (sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog) 3x (18)
Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog) 3x (15)
Rnd 33: (sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog) 3x (12)
Stuff the thigh.
Rnd 34: sc until you reach the side of the leg, flatten leg
and line up stitches, ch1 (does not count as st), sc in next
6 sts through both sides
Fasten off, leave long tail. Stuff the lower leg. (Image 27)

Sew the lower leg to the heel of the foot, so that the
Image 27 - Feet en hind legs
knee is bending towards the middle toe. (Image 27)
Sew the legs on both sides of the body between rnds 7
and 8. (Image 28)

Arm
Make 2. Each arm has 3 fingers.

Fingers
Make 3. Start with magic adjustable ring and green yarn.
Rnd 1: 4 sc into the center of the ring, pull tail to close
ring (4)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (8)
Image 28 - Legs attached Rnd 3: sc in each st around (8)
Rnd 4: (sc2tog) 4x (4)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around (4)
For first finger: fasten off, weave in end.
For second finger: Rnd 6: sc in each st around (4), fasten
off, weave in end.
For third finger: do not fasten off! You will continue to
work this finger to join all three together for the arm.

Rnd 6: sc in next 2 sts of the finger you are working on.


Then, sc in 2 sts of rnd 6 of the second finger, then sc in
all 4 sts of rnd 5 of the first finger. Sc in the remaining 2 sts
of the second finger, then sc in the final 2 sts of the third
finger (12)
Image 29 - Arms Rnd 7: sc in each st around (12)

Fritz the Frog



Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog) 3x (9)
Rnd 9: sc in each st around (9)
Stuff the hand lightly.
Rnd 10: (sc in next st, sc2tog) 3x (6)
Rnd 11-26: sc in each st around (6)
Rnd 27: sc until you reach the side of the arm, flatten arm
and line up stitches, ch1 (does not count as st), sc in next
3 sts through both sides
Fasten off, leave long tail. (Image 29)

Sew arms on both sides of the body between rnds 27 en


Image 30 - Arms attached 28, about 1or 2 sts apart from the tummy patch (Image
30).

Embroider two nostrils with black yarn (Image 31).

Now your frog is finished! (Image 32)

Image 31 - Embroider nostrils

Image 32.1 Image 32.2 Image 32.3

Fritz the Frog




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