Serger & Sewing Machine Cover
Materials Needed
Free sewing machinge cover pattern
1 yard of a sturdy cotton/denim/canvas for each machine (you can also use a
linen/cotton blend like our monstera print or Essex linen)
Piping (1.75 yards for sewing machine, 2 yds for serger)
two small squares of fusible interfacing (sewing machine cover only)
polyester thread
piping foot
snap or button (sewing machine cover only)
snap or button setter (sewing machine cover only)
awl (sewing machine cover only)
hammer (sewing machine cover only)
Construction Process
Since the process is the exact same for both versions, I am going to walk you through
making the sewing machine cover, as it is slightly more complicated with two pockets and a
snap. The sewing machine cover will fit a machine with approximate dimensions of 15" long
x 12" high x 7" deep, and the serger will fit a machine that is 12” long x 12” high x 14” deep.
There is a little wiggle room here so don't fret if your machine is an inch larger in any
direction, but if you want to fit your machine exactly, we include lengthen/shorten lines on
the pattern so you can adjust accordingly.
Ok, let's get started!
First thing you will want to do is make a whole whack of piping using our piping tutorial. I
say the more the merrier with piping since it's almost more annoying to make a small
amount, and you can always use it in other projects. We made our piping using our body
fabric, but you could also make contrast piping or use the ready-made stuff from the store.
No shame in the game! Once that's done, cut out your pieces and give everything a good
press.
Next, press the long sides of the pocket (piece C) down by 5/8" twice.
Repeat for the other pocket and topstitch both in place.
Lay the main body (the long one) right side up and pin your pockets to either end, lining up
the raw edge along the bottom. Baste these pieces together along the raw edges at 3/8".
Next, you will be creating the double pocket. We have included a notch at the bottom of the
pocket piece which is exactly halfway across. If you would like a smaller pocket on one side
for your machine foot or stitch guide, simply measure and do your top stitching there. For
the middle pocket draw a line from the notch to the top of the pocket piece and topstitch
along that line, making sure to backstitch at the top.
If you wanted two double pockets, you could of course repeat this on the other side. We
wanted to make a big enough pocket for the machine's table extension, so we will be just
leaving the other side for now.
Time to attach the piping; if that's a new skill for you, we have an in-depth tutorial here. Pin
your piping on to both side pieces (piece B), lining the raw edge up with the outer edge. You
may need to notch it in order to help it lay flat.
Using a piping foot, align the needle as far to the right as you can and baste the piping on. I
notched the fabric at this point and ironed everything to get it nice and flat.
Next, match the top notch on piece B with the notch on piece A and pin the pieces
together. You are lining up a straight line to a curved line so you may need to ease the fabric
around the corners. Move your needle back into the middle still using your piping foot and
stitch, making sure you are sewing on the inside of the first row of stitching. Repeat on the
other side.
Once done you will want to finish those seams. You can do this with a serger by only
trimming off loose threads, or zig-zag to finish the raw edges.
Flip the piece inside out and press the seams towards the body.
At this point, try the cover on your machine to ensure your hem is the right length. We
folded up the bottom 1/2" and then 1". Press using a bunch of steam especially at the
corners. Topstitch in place.
If you want to add a snap or button to your large pocket you will need a snap setter,
hammer and hard surface to work on.
Once you know where you want your snap to be, iron a small square of interfacing on the
wrong side of the fabric where both sides of hardware will be. For details on setting snaps,
see our tutorial. You can also replace the snap with a regular 'ol button.
And that's it! Don't forget, if you're making the serger cover the process is more or less the
same, except you'll be skipping the pockets.
Here are some shots of all the ladies in situe. It's a jungle in here!
We hope you get some use from our free pattern! It's one of those projects that doesn't feel
do or die necessary, but they really add a little something to our space, and protect our
machines from dust when they're not in regular use.
Have you glammed up your studio with some sewing machine tuxedoes?
