N. Z.

Denim Ltd

1
 Department of Finishing

Index:
• Organogram of Finishing Department ( Page -3)
• Job Description (Page - 4 ~ 7)
• Process Flow chart (Page -8)
• Standard Operating Procedures (SOP) (Page - 9 ~ 35)
• Documentation of Finishing Department (Page - 36 ~ 45)

2
 Organogram of Finishing Department

Manager

Asst. Manager

Shift-A Shift-B Shift-C Shift-G

Production Production
Senior Executive Officer
Officer Officer

MTO MTO MTO Jr. Officer

Supervisor Supervisor Supervisor

Data Entry Data Entry Data Entry

Operator Operator Operator

Operator Operator Operator

Helper Helper Helper

 Job Description

Manager (Finishing)
*Guiding the finishing staff to increase the standard Production with minimum cost.
*Training those (staff) to improve their efficiency.
*Making the recipes for overdyeing Fabrics.
* Providing effective support for process improvements.
*Managing the manpower for effective result.
*Making plan for everyday activities.
Asst.Manager (Finishing)
*Following the production activities.
*Guiding the production officers & supervisors.
*Follow up machine wise production activities.
*Reporting daily production activities to the Manager.

Production Officer (Finishing)

*Planning, executing and following up the production activities and control the quality production with related
activities.
*Receiving fabrics from weaving & keeping floor report update.
*Control the supervisors, operators and helpers.
* Checking daily production reports.
* At last, Production officer reports about the production activities to the Asst.Manager/Manager.
Supervisor (Finishing)
*Supervise the operators and helpers about their specific roles.
*Helping operators and helpers for increasing production.
*Scheduling work hours and shifts.
*Providing reports and activity updates to Production officer.

Operator (Finishing)
* Operating finishing machine.
*Fabric quality check & set up parameter as per requirement.
*If any problem found, then inform the supervisor.
Asst.Operator (Finishing)
*Helping operator in production activities.
*Checking all fabric parameter.
*Writing production summary.
*Guiding the helpers continuously.

Helper (Finishing)
*Helping the operators in production activities.
*Cleaning the machine shift wise.
*Making chemical recipe as per requirement.
 Process Flow chart
Fabric Received From Weaving

ERP Updating

Grey Report Checking

Ready for processing

Finished fabric according to planning

Singeing

Desizing Mercerizing Overdyeing Heat set Brushing

Sanforizing

Lab test the finish fabric

Transfer trolley to Inspection

Standard Operating Procedure. SOP

9
 Standard Operating Procedure. SOP

Singe & Desize

1. ‡gwk‡bi bvgt Dhall †gwkb

‡gwkb ‰Zixi †`kt fviZ
‡gwkb ˆZixi †Kv¤úvbxt Chopra Dhall Group
2. What is here? GLv‡b wK KvR?
Kvc‡oi Dc‡ii Avuk †cvovBqv `yi Kiv nq Ges †KwgK¨vj w`‡q mvBwRs ‡KwgK¨vj `~i Kiv nq|
2.1 Why need singing?
‡Kb wmbwR Kivi `iKvi nq?
Kvc‡oi Dc‡i Avuk †cvov‡bvi Rb¨, Kvc‡oi Dc‡i Avk _vK‡j Kvco is Kivi ci fvj †`Lv hvqbv|
2.2 Why need Desizing?
†Kb wWRvBR Kivi `iKvi nq?
Kvc‡o mvBwRs †KwgK¨vj A_©vr gvo _vK‡j Kvh©vejx‡Z weNœ N‡U is D¾j mgvb fv‡e nqbv| GRb¨ wWmvBR Kiv nq|
3. Part of Singe & Desize Machine
Singe & Desize Machine ‡gwkb Gi 4 wU BDwbU Av‡Q,
1. eªvwks BDwbU
2. wmbwRs BDwbU
3. 2q eªvwks BDwbU
4. ‡KwgK¨vj ‡P¤^vi
3.1 eªvwks BDwbU
GB BDwb‡Ui g‡a¨ N~Y©vqgvb eªvk Av‡Q| Bnv Kvc‡oi ¯ú‡k© †_‡K Avjv`v gUi Øviv Nyiv‡Z _v‡K d‡j AvjMv gqjv/Zzjv
BZ¨vw` Kvco †_‡K †S‡o †d‡j hvnv mvKkb gUb Øviv Avjv`v fv‡e Kv‡jKkb Kiv nq| G Qvov Avuk¸wj fvjfv‡e
‡cvov‡bvi Rb¨ mw¾Z Kiv nq|
3.2 wmbwRs BDwbU
Kvc‡oi `yB cvk †cvov‡bvi Rb¨ 1wU Kwiqv †gvU 2 wU evb©vi Av‡Q| GB evb©vi ¸‡jv M¨vm PvwjZ| cÖ‡qvRb gZ evb©v‡ii
Av¸‡bi wZeªZv Kg/‡ewk Kwiqv Ggb fv‡e ‡mU Kiv nq hvnv‡Z ïaygvÎ m~ÿ Avuk cy‡o wKš‘ Kvc‡o Av¸b a‡i bv hvq|
3.3
2q eªvwks BDwbU
GB BDwbU Kvc‡oi Avuk †cvov‡bv QvB AcmviY K‡i|
3.4
K¨vwgK¨vj †P¤^vit
‡gwk‡bi GB As‡k †ivjvi Ges †KwgK¨vj ivLvi e¨e¯’v Av‡Q| cÖ‡qvRbxq ZvcgvÎv ivLvi Rb¨ ÷ªxg mieivn e¨e¯’v
Av‡Q| Kvco hLb GB †P¤^v‡ii wfZi w`‡q hvq ZLb †KwgK¨vj Øviv wf‡R hvq| AwZwi³ ‡KwgK¨vj wPwcqv ivLvi Rb¨
c¨vWvi Av‡Q, c¨vWv‡ii evZv‡mi Pvc Kg/ ‡ewk K‡i AwZwi³ K¨vwgK¨vj U¨vs‡K †i‡L †`Iqv nq| Zvici Kvco GKwU
e¨vPv‡i c¨vPv‡bv nq Ges wbav©wiZ mgq Nyiv‡bv nq|
4.cwiPvjbv c×wZt

4.1
Kvco cÖ_‡g GK _v‡bi Dci Av‡iK _vb mvwR‡q GKwU †cøU ‰Zix Kiæb| G ‡ÿ‡Î Kv‡Vi A_ev cøvw÷‡Ki /
†jvnvi Uªwj e¨envi Kiv hv‡e| 1 _v‡bi Dci Ab¨ _vb mvRv‡bvi mgq †hb GKB iKg nq A_©vr GK _v‡bi †dm
mgš^q _v‡K| 2000-3000 MR Kvco GB †cø‡U mvRv‡bv nq, Zvici GK _v‡bi mv‡_ Ab¨ _vb †Rvov‡bv nq
KUb myZv w`‡q †mjvB K‡i|
4.2
‡gwk‡bi Gw›Uª mvB‡W †mjvB Kiv Kvco †cøU ¸‡jv mvwR‡q wbb|
4.3
‡gwk‡bi mvB‡W †KwgK¨vj wg·vi U¨vs‡K cÖ‡qvRbxq cwigvb †KwgK¨vj ˆZix Kiæb| G †ÿ‡Î KZ©e¨iZ
Awdmv‡ii †`Iqv †i‡mwc AbymiY Kiæb|
1. Drcv`b c~e©eZ©x ‡PK wj÷
1. Kvco †gwk‡b mwVK fv‡e MvBW Kiæb|
2. ‡gwk‡b cÖ‡qvRbxq evq~Pvc Av‡Q wKbv Zv jÿ Kiæb|
3. wbav©wiZ ¯’v‡b †hgb ïiæ‡Z †KwgK¨vj †P¤^v‡i Ges e¨vPv‡ii wbKU †jvK †mU Kiæb|
4. Acv‡iwUs c¨v‡bj †ev‡W© ˆe`y¨wZK meyR ms‡KZ Av‡Q wKbv Zv wbwðZ K‡i Zvici ‡gwkb Pvjv‡bv ïiæ
Kiyb|
5. evb©vi G dvqvi Pvjy Kiæb, Kvco Abymv‡i Av¸‡bi ZxeªZv †mU Kiæb|
6. eªvwks BDwb‡U Ges wmbwRs BDwb‡U mvKkb gUi Pvjy wKbv jÿ Kiæb|
7. Gi ci ax‡i ax‡i †gwkb Pvjy Kiæb Ges Kvw•LZ MwZ‡Z †gwkb Pvjy ivLyb|
8. cÖwZ e¨vPvi m¤ú~b© n‡j †gwk‡bi MwZ Av‡¯Í Av‡¯Í Kgvb Ges eÜ Kiæb|
9. cÖwZ 24 N›Uv AšÍi †gwkb cwi®‹vi Kiæb|

1. ‡PKwj÷
1. evb©vi mwVK Bb‡UbwmwU‡Z R¦jgvb Av‡Q wKbv jÿ ivLyb|
2. †KwgK¨vj †P¤^vi ZvcgvÎv wVK Av‡Q wKbv jÿ Kiæb, GwU 60-70 wWMÖx †mjwmqvm|
3.c¨vWvi Gi wcKAvc % †PK Kiæb| GwUi Left, Center, Right mgvb nIqv evÃbxq, †hLv‡b wcKAvc
90-110%|
4. cÖwZ 8 N›Uv ci ci †P¤^v‡ii cyi‡bv gqjv hy³ †KwgK¨vj †d‡j bZzb K‡i ‡KwgK¨vj wbb|
5. cÖwZw`b evb©v‡ii wbKU¯’ †ivjvi eªvk BZ¨vw` cwi®‹vi Kiæb|
1. Safety, wbivcËv
1.†Kvb N~bv©qgvb c¨vWv‡i kix‡ii †Kvb Ask nvZ ev ci‡ibi Kvco †cwP‡q †M‡j ev Xz‡K †M‡j Bgvi‡RwÝ jvj
evU‡b Pvcw`b †gwkb eÜ n‡q hv‡e|
2. nv‡Z AvswU ev evjv cov hv‡ebv|
3. †ewk wXjv Kvco civ hv‡ebv|
4. †Kvb Mig Ask †hgb ÷ªxg jvBb †gwk‡bi ewW BZ¨vw`‡Z †Qvqv †j‡M cy‡o †M‡j mv‡_ mv‡_ evibj RvZxq
gjg jvMvb Ges Wv³v‡ii civgk© wbb|
5. kixi ev †Pv‡L †KwgK¨vj Øviv AvµvšÍ n‡j cÖPzi cvwb w`‡q ay‡q †djyb Ges Wv³v‡ii civgk© wbb|
6.‡gwk‡bi †Kvb ej, weqvwis ev cvU©m ÿwZMÖ¯’ n‡j †gKvwbK¨vj wefvM‡K AewnZ Kiæb|
7. ˆe`y¨wZK ÎæwU †`Lv w`‡j ˆe`y¨wZK wefvM‡K AewnZ Kiæb|
8. ivevi my cwiavb Kiæb|
9. ‡gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq N~b©vqgvb †ivjvi aiv hv‡ebv|
10. ‡KwgK¨vj wgw·s Gi mgq MMjm, n¨vÛ Mj¦m cwiavb Ki‡Z n‡e|
11. †gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq c¨vWvi G nvZ †`Iqv hv‡ebv|
12. Ges e¨vPvi bvovPov Kivi mgq Aek¨B mZ©K _vK‡Z n‡e|
mgq Ae¨kB mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e|
13. cÖv_wgK wPwKrmv c×wZ mg‡Ü mevB‡K AeMZ _vK‡Z n‡e|

1.1 Neat & Clean, cwi®‹vi cwi”QbœZv

1. cÖwZw`b GKevi †gwk‡bi ÷ªxgvi, †ivjvi, c¨vWvi BZ¨vw` cvwb w`‡q cwi®‹vi Kiæb|
2. ‡gwk‡bi Avk-cvk cwi®‹vi Kiæb|
Cibitex Machine

15
 Cibitex Machine -1 & 2
gvb m¤§Z cwiPvjbv c×wZ

‡gwk‡bi bvgt Bluetex †gwkb

‡gwkb ‰Zixi †`kt BZvwj
‡gwkb ˆZixi †Kv¤úvbxt Cibitex S.R.L
g‡Wjt Bluetex
1. Process Definition (cÖwµqvi msÁvt)
Ggb GKwU cÖwµqv hvnv ÷ªx‡gi Dcw¯’wZ‡Z Over Fedding Gi gva¨‡g Oven Fabric Gi
Shrinkage Length Ges width wise control K‡i Kvc‡oi Ab¨vb¨ Pvwn`v †hgb Weight wbqš¿Y
K‡i (increase) e„wׇZ mnqZv K‡i|
wb‡b¥v³ welq Sanforize Machine Gi mnqZvq Kiv nqt
01. Woven Fabric hand fell, smooth, silky Kgv‡Z mnvqZv K‡i|
02. Yarn slippage Kgv‡Z mnvqZv K‡i|
03. Fabric compact K‡i Ges Thickness Kgvq|
04. Fabric (Skew) evuK v Ki‡Z mnvqZv K‡i|
05. Width & length shrinkage Ki‡Z mvnvh¨ K‡i|
2. Process Requirement-wK cÖ‡qvRbt

2.1 Key Accessories (g~j DcKiY mg~n)

mvb‡dvivBR cÖ‡mm Pjv Kvjxb mgq wbb¥wjwLZ mivÄvgv`x e¨eüZ nq|
 KvwP
 cwigvc wdZv
 wmb‡KR †¯‹j
 Counting Glass (KvDw›Us Møvm)
2. †KwgK¨vj
* Softner
* Wetting agent
* Acetic Acid
 3. Safety (wbivcËv)
* †gwkb Pvjv‡bvi mgq †Kvb g‡ZB wXjv Rvgv-Kvco cwiavb Kiv hv‡ebv|
* me©`v ivev‡ii RyZv cwiavb K‡i wWDwU Ki‡Z n‡e|
* †gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq N~Yv©qgvb †ivjv‡i nvZ †`Iqv hv‡e bv|
* †gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq ivevi †eë Ges Felt G gvSLv‡bi †cøUv‡i nvZ †`Iqv hv‡ebv|
* †gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq ivevi eøvs‡K‡U Kvco civ‡bv hv‡ebv|
* †gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq eøvs‡K‡U nvZ †`Iqv hv‡ebv|
* cÖv_wgK wPwKrmv c×wZ mg‡Ü mevB‡K AeMZ _vK‡Z n‡e
4. Checklist before Production ‡PKwj÷
Drcv`b c~e©eZ©x †PKwj÷
* Sanforizing Machine G Pvjv‡bv Dc‡hvMx Kvco wbev©Pb Ki‡Z n‡e|
* Feed Side Ges Delivery side G cÖ‡qvRb †gvZv‡eK †jvKRb _vK‡e|
* Feed side Fabrics Ready Ki‡Z n‡e|
* Machine Parameter set Ki‡Z n‡e|
* Pre shrinkage Rvb‡Z n‡e|

4.4 Acv‡ikb cÖwmwWIi

Operator machine Start Ki‡e Ges Main Steam Supply valve open
Ki‡e| 30 wgt wnU ‡`Iqvi ci ivevi eøvs‡KU Start Ki‡e| Machine start Kivi
ci wbb¥ wjwLZ c¨vivwgUvi My‡jv d‡jv Ki‡e|
1. mwVK ¯úxW †mU Ki‡Z n‡e|
2. Steam temperature cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx †mU Ki‡Z n‡e|
3. Load cell cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx †mU Ki‡Z n‡e|
4. Steam box clean ivL‡Z n‡e Ges Condensate valve wKQzUv †Lvjv
_vK‡e|

‡gwkb Pvjy nIqvi ci 20-25 wgwbU Kvco †Wwjfvix nIqvi ci wbb¥ wjwLZ ‡KvqvwjwU
†PK Ki‡Z n‡e|
PAD Steam Machine

20
 PAD Steam Machine
‡gwk‡bi bvgt Saga Pad Steam Machine
‡gwkb ‰Zixi †`kt China
‡gwkb ˆZixi †Kv¤úvbxt Jiangsu Saga Textile Machinary Co. Ltd.
g‡Wjt LMH924-200
1.1 ‡gwkb †mU Avc (Machine Stetting)
2.0 c¨vW ÷ªxg †gwk‡bi m~Pbv
c¨vW ÷ªxg †gwkb Ggb GKwU cªwµqv †hLv‡b wewfbœ ai‡bi cÖ‡mm Kiv nq|
‡hgbt- wW-mvBR Iqvk, ZvQvov GLv‡b IfviWvBs I Kiv nq|

3.0 ‡gwk‡bi eY©bv

GB †gwkbwU 4wU g~j As‡ki mv‡_ mw¤§wjZfv‡e KvR K‡i|
K) `yBwU (02) Wwms cv¤ú
L) Kvjvi/‡KwgK¨vj wgw·s U¨v¼ 02 wU
3.1 c¨vwWs BDwbU
c¨vW ÷ªxg †gwk‡bi c¨vwWs BDwbU wU mvaviYZ WvBs A_ev †KwgK¨vj c¨vwWs Gi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv nq|
G‡Z GK †Rvov c¨vWvi _v‡K, hvi `yB cv‡k Avjv`vfv‡e nvB‡WªvwjK cv¤ú Gi mvnv‡h¨ †cÖmvi wbqš¿Y
Kiv hvq|

3.2 ֻxgvi
WvBs Gi mgq Kvjvi c¨vwWs Kiv †dweªK hv‡Z wd‡·kb Gi Rb¨ chv©ß mgq Ges ZvcgvÎv cvq †m Rb¨
÷xgvi Gi wfZ‡i ÷xg mieivn Kiv nq| †KwgK¨vj c¨vwWs Gi mgq ÷xgvi AwZwi³ Kv‡R e¨envi
Kiv hvq|

3.3 Iqv‡ki †P¤^vi

GB †gwk‡b 8 wU Iqvk †P¤^vi Av‡Q| hvi cÖwZwU Avjv`vfv‡e ZvcgvÎv wbav©iY Kiv hvq Ges 1 bs †P¤^vi
G †mvwcs / Iqvm Ad ‡KwgK¨vj cÖ‡qvM () Kiv nq Ges 8 bs †P¤^v‡i GwmW cÖ‡qvM Kivi e¨e¯’v Av‡Q|
GQvovI cÖwZwU †P¤^v‡i G cvwb cÖevwnZ nIqvi e¨e¯’v Av‡Q|
3.4 ïKv‡bv
GB BDwb‡U Kvco ïKv‡bvi Kv‡R e¨envi Kiv nq
GLv‡b wZb mvwi‡Z 30 wU ïKv‡bvi wmwjÛvi Av‡Q, hvnv ÷xg Øviv DËß Kiv nq| ‡gbyq¨vwj †KvqvwjwU
†f‡` cÖ‡qvRbgZ Avjv`v Avjv`v ZvcgvÎv cÖ‡qvM Kiv nq|
3.5 †WvwRs cv¤ú
GB †gwk‡b `yBwU †WvwRs cv¤ú Av‡Q| hvi GKwU †KwgK¨vj †WvwRs G e¨envi nq I wØZxqwU GwmW
†WvwRs G e¨envi Kiv nq|
hvnv‡Z †dweªK G wc GBm wVK _v‡K|

3.6 U¨v‡¼i eY©bv

GB †gwk‡b Kvjvi I ‡KwgK¨vj Mjv‡bvi Rb¨ 2wU U¨v¼ Av‡Q| hvi `yBwU‡Z 1200 wjUvi mgcwigvb
Kvjvi I †KwgK¨vj Mjv‡bv nq|

3.7 Kvjvi I †KwgK¨vj wgkÖY

cÖ_g †iwmwc Abyhvqx ‡÷vi †_‡K Kvjvi I ‡KwgK¨vj fvjfv‡e †g‡c wb‡Z n‡e| Gici Kvjvi Gi
†ÿ‡Î Mig cvwb †QvU U¨vswK/ Wªv‡g wgw·s gUi Øviv Mwj‡q U¨vswK‡Z Xvj‡Z n‡e| Zvici †kW Abymv‡i
Kvjvi ‡KwgK¨vj †h †i‡mwc‡Z †`Iqv Av‡Q Zv w`‡q †j‡ej Ki‡Z n‡e| Gici †gwk‡b †h †dweªK
c¨vwWs n‡e ‡mB †dweªK Gi e¨vPvi I Uªwj †gwk‡b jvMv‡Z n‡e|
4.0 Process Requirements

4.1 Key Accessories

Pad Steam M/C PjvKvjxb wbb¥ wjwLZ mivÄvgvw` e¨eüZ nq|
(1) Scissors
(2) Measurement Tape

4.2 Material/ Chemicals used

(1) Sulphur Black
(2) Sodium Sulphide
(3) Caustic Soda
(4) Wetting Agent
(5)Sequestering Agent
(6) Acetic Acid

5. wbivcËv I mZ©KZv
Kvjvi I †KwgK¨vj Mjv‡bvi mgq nv‡Z Møvfm I cv‡q MvgeyU Ges †Pv‡L MMjm cwiavb Ki‡Z
n‡e|‡gwkb PjvKvjxb mgq †gwk‡bi c¨vWvi I e¨vwPs c‡q›U I ÷ªxg WªvBqv‡i Ges ÷xg †P¤^vi G
nvZ †`Iqv hv‡e bv| B‡jKwUªK myBP mwµqKiY Kivi mgq cv‡q cøvw÷‡Ki cv`yKv Ges cøvw÷‡Ki
g¨vU cv‡qi wb‡P e¨envi Ki‡Z n‡e Ges Mv‡q wXjv Kvco cwiavb Kiv hv‡e bv| ‡hgb- gvdjvi I
Pv`i|
Stenter Machine

25
 Stenter
1. Process Definition
Stenter Ggb GKwU wdwbwks cÖwµqv hvi gva¨‡g wewfbœ cÖKvi †KwgK¨vj wUªU‡g›U Gi gva¨‡g
†fv³vi Pvwn`v Abyhvqx Kvc‡oi wewfbœ cÖKvi ¸Yvejx, †hgbt n¨vÛwdj, I‡qU, eni, D¾jZv Ges
Ab¨vbœ cÖwµqv m¤úbœ Kiv nq|
2. Process Requirements
2.1 Key Accessories
wbb¥wjwLZ mivÄvgv`x wdwbwks cÖwµqvi mgq e¨eüZ nq|
1.pH Papers wc GBP †ccvi
2.Bucket evjwZ
3.Sewing Machine myBs †gwkb
4.Measuring Balance cwigvcK hš¿
5.Measuring Tape cwigvcK †Uc
6.Scissors KvwP
7.Trolley/Batcher Uªwj /e¨vPvi
 1. Safety (mZ©KZv)
 †gwkb PjvKvjxb mgq wbb¥ ewY©Z mZK©Zv Aej¤^b Ki‡Z n‡e|
 ‡gwkb PjvKvjx mgq Loose dress cwiavb Kiv hv‡ebv|
 ivevi my cwiavb Ki‡Z n‡e
 ‡gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq N~Y©vqgvb †ivjvi aiv hv‡e bv|
 pin setting Gi mgq Aek¨B mZ©K _vK‡Z n‡e
 ‡KwgK¨vj wgw·s Gi mgq Aek¨B MMjm, n¨vÛ Mj&fm cwiavb Ki‡Z n‡e|
 ‡gwkb PjvKvjxb Ae¯’vq c¨vWv‡i nvZ †`Iqv hv‡ebv|
 ‡dweªK Uªwj I e¨vPvi bvov Pviv mgq Aek¨B mZK© _vK‡Z n‡e|
cÖv_wgK wPwKrmv c×wZ mevB‡K AeMZ _vK‡Z n‡e
4.3 †PKwj÷ ( Drcv`b c~e©eZx †PKwj÷)
Finishing, Re Finishing Heat Set Stretch Gi mgq Aek¨B wbb¥ ewY©Z †PKwj÷ ¸‡jv AbymiY
Ki‡Z n‡e|
* †cªvMÖvg †gvZv‡eK †gwkb Parameter c¨viwgUvi wVK Ki‡Z n‡e|
* ‡gwk‡bi Feed Ges Delivery mvB‡W cÖ‡qvRb †gvZv‡eK Rbej †mU Ki‡Z n‡e|
* Process Gi Rb¨ cÖ‡qvRbxq K¨vwgK¨vj ˆZix Ki‡Z n‡e|
* †gwk‡bi Feed mvB‡W Kvc‡oi Uªwj A_ev e¨vPvi †mU Ki‡Z n‡e|
4.4.2 Operation Procedure (Operation c×wZ)
cÖ_‡g B‡jKwUªK Balance gva¨‡g †KwgK¨vj gvc‡Z n‡e| Avjv`v evjwZ‡Z ivL‡Z n‡e| ‡KwgK¨vj
†Kv¤úvbx K…Z©K cÖ`Ë wjUv‡iPvi Abyhvqx †KwgK¨vj VvÛv A_ev Mig cvwb Gi mv‡_ ¸jv‡Z n‡e| Mixing
Tank G Kvc‡oi Total Solution Gi 50% cwb w`‡q c~Y© Ki‡Z n‡e Ges QvKwb w`‡q †Q‡K wb‡q
Mixing Tank G ivL‡Z n‡e| Zvici cÖ‡qvRbxq evKx cvwb Mixing Tank G wb‡Z n‡e| Gi ci
Electric Mixer Gi mvnv‡h¨ Chemical (5) A_ev 10 wgwbU N~Y©vqgvb _vK‡e| Zvici †KwgK¨vj
cvBc jvB‡bi mvnv‡h¨ †KwgK¨vj e‡· wb‡Z n‡e| Acv‡iUi cÖ_‡g 01 wgUvi Kvco cixÿvg~jK fv‡e ivb
Ki‡e Ges Parameter, Softner, Hardness, Shade Match Quality †PK Ki‡e| †µZvi
cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx cixÿvg~jK K…Z m¨v¤új hw` †µZvi Pvwn`v Abyhvqx gvbm¤§Z nq Zvici Production
officer bulk Production Gi Rb¨ wm×všÍ wb‡e, Ges Acv‡iUi †cÖvWvKk‡bi Rb¨ †gwkb Pvjbv Ki‡e|
4.5 Kvc‡oi ¸bMZ gvb †PK
4.5.1 Shade Check
‡h †Kvb bulk Production processing Gi mgq ( †h‡Kvb jU) Operator Shade check Ki‡e
Kvc‡oi ¸bMZ gvb †PK Ki‡e| hw` ‡Kvb mgm¨v nq Zv n‡j Ac‡iUi KZ©e¨iZ Awdmvi‡K AewnZ Ki‡e,
wkdU Awdmvi cÖ‡qvRbxq c‡`‡ÿ‡ci gva¨‡g mgm¨v mgvav‡bi †Póv Ki‡e| hw` wZwb mgm¨v mgvav‡b e¨_©
†nvb ZLb wWcvU©‡g›U †nW ‡K AewnZ Ki‡eb| me‡k‡l wWcvU©‡g›U †nW dvBbvj wWwmkb w`‡eb|
4.5.1 Fault Check (ÎæwU †PK)
wdwbwks Process PjvKvjxb mgq Ac‡iUi Kvc‡oi wewfbœ ai‡bi ÎæwU †hgb Color spot,Hole,Shade
Variation, Fabric Weave, Chemical Spot And Other Faults †PK Ki‡e|
‡h‡Kvb ai‡bi Fault †`Lv ‡M‡j Previous process A_v©r Feed sode fabrics Check Ki‡Z n‡e|
hw` Previous process G ‡Kvb cÖKvi Fault †`Lv bv hvq †m †ÿ‡Î †gwkb eÜ K‡i †KwgK¨vj U¨vsK
c¨vivwgUvi †KwgK¨vj K‡¤úvwRkb †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| Ac‡iUi hw` eyS‡Z cv‡i mgm¨v ‡Kv_v †_‡K Avm‡Q
†m‡ÿ‡Î Zrÿbvr Zv mgvavb Ki‡Z n‡e| Avi hw` eyS‡Z bv cv‡i †m‡ÿ‡Z Zrÿbvr †gwkb eÜ K‡I wkdU
Awdmvi †K AewnZ Ki‡Z n‡e| wkdU Awdmvi Z`šÍ mv‡c‡ÿ cÖ‡qvRbxq e¨e¯’v wb‡e|
4.5.3 (Width Check) eni †PK
Kvc‡oi cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx eni (Width) wVK Av‡Q wKbv Zv Aek¨B Fabrics Delivry †Z Rvbv‡Z n‡e|
4.5.4 Fabric Bow and Skew Check
Kvc‡oi cÖ‡qvRb Abyhvqx Bow and Skew Control Av‡Q wKbv Aek¨B †PK Ki‡Z n‡e|
5.00 dg© I WKz‡g›U
The necessary forms & documents for finishing process are listed below:
1.Process Batch Card e¨vP Kv©W
2.Daily Finishing Report, wdwbwks †cÖvWvKkb wi‡cvU©
3.Machine Downtime Report WvDb UvBg wi‡cvU©
4.Recipe Sheet ‡iwmwc wmU
5.Identification Sticker
6.Program Register of Stenter Machine ‡cÖvMÖvg †iwRóvi
7.Production Register of Stenter Machine ‡cÖvWvKkb †iwRóvi
Saga Mercerize Machine

31
 Mercerize

1.‡gwk‡bi bvgt Saga Mercerize †gwkb

‡gwkb ‰Zixi †`kt Pxb

‡gwkb ˆZixi †Kv¤úvbxt Jiangsu Saga Textile Machinery Co. Ltd.

g‡Wj b¤^it LMH924-200

2. Mercerizing ( gv‡m©ivBwRs)

Kvc‡oi WvBs Gi c‡i GB KvR Kiv nq| mgvb fv‡e WvBs D¾jZv e„w× Ges kw³ e„w× Kivi Rb¨
Mercerize Kiv nq|

3. How to Mercerizing ( wKfv‡e gv‡m©ivBwRs Kiv nq)

‡gwk‡b NbKvwóK †mvWv `ªe‡b Kvco m¤ú~b©iƒ‡c PzevBqv c‡i cvwb `¦viv †aŠZ Kiv nq| mvaviYZ 17 †e¨vg
†_‡K 30 †evg KvwóK mjykbK e¨envi Kiv nq|

1. Kvwó‡Ki NbZ¡ w¯’i ivLvi Rb¨ A‡Uv‡gwUK (¯^qswµq)‡e¨vg K‡›Uªvjvi Av‡Q|

2. ‡gwk‡b 1 wU Nb KvwóK `ªeb m¤^wjZ †ivjvi mshy³ U¨vsK Av‡Q|
3. Gici wmwjÛvi m¤^wjZ evZvm jvMv‡bv Gwiqv|
4. Avevi Nb KvwóK `ªe‡Yi †ivjvi mshy³ U¨vsK Av‡Q|
5. Gici mvaviY †ivjvi cvwb m¤^wjZ Iqvwks U¨vsK Av‡Q 8 wU| cÖwZwU U¨vs‡Ki ZvcgvÎv Avjv`vfv‡e
wbqš¿Y Kiv hvq|
6 . ‡kl U¨vs‡Ki Av‡Mi U¨vsK G mqswµqfv‡e wcGBP wbqš¿Y Kivi Rb¨ hš¿m¾v Av‡Q| G‡mwUK
GwmW Øviv Kvc‡oii wcGBP wbqš¿Y Kiv nq|
7. Zvici Kvc‡oi `yB mvix DËß Wªqvi wmwjÛvi Gi gva¨‡g †ei nIqvi d‡j Kvco ïwK‡q †ei nq|
4. Operating Procedure ( cwiPvjbv c×wZ )

1.‡gwkb meyR ms‡KZ wbwðZ Kiæb|

2. mKj c¨vWvi Gi Gqvi ‡cÖmvi mwVK fv‡e †mU Kiæb|

3. cÖwZwU Iqvwks †P¤^v‡I cvwb c~b© Kiæb Ges ZvcgvÎv (95-98) wWMÖx †mjwmqvm †mU Kiæb|

4. †h U¨vsK GwmW wgwkÖZ nq H U¨vs‡K ÷ªxg †hvM n‡ebv| Gwm‡Wi Av‡Mi U¨vs‡Ki ZvcgvÎv Kg †mU
Kiæb|

5. KwóK †P¤^v‡i Kwó‡Ki NbZ¡ †e¨vgwgUvi w`‡q †g‡c wbwðZ Kiæb|

6. GwmW U¨vs‡Ki wbav©wiZ wcGBm †mU Kiæb|

7. †gwk‡bi Gw›UªmvB‡W Ges Exit mvB‡W †jvK †mU Kiæb|

8. Gw›UªmvB‡W Kvc‡oi †dm/e¨vK †`‡L ‡dm Dc‡I †i‡L e¨vPvi R‡q›U ‡mjvB Kiæb|

9. mKj wKQz wVK _vK‡j †gwkb Av‡¯Í Av‡¯Í Pvjy Kiæb|

5. Check Point ( ‡PK c‡q›U )

1. e¨eüZ KwóK mjyk‡bi NbZ¡ mvavibZ KUb Kvc‡oii Rb¨ (24-28) ‡e¨vg

2.Iqvwks U¨vs‡Ki ZvcgvÎv 95-98 wWMÖx ‡mjwmqvm|

3. Kvc‡oi wcGBP mvaviYZ 6-7 ivLv nq|

4.Kvc‡oi †kvlY ÿgZv 3-4 wm Gg

5. cÖwZ 1000 wgUvi ci ci m¨v¤új †K‡U j¨ve G cvwV‡q w`b|

6. Kvc‡oi Ab¨vb¨ ÎæwU †hgb t- jvBb gvK©, ¯úU, wµRgvK© BZ¨vw` Av‡Q wKbv Zv jÿ ivLyb|
Documentation of Finishing
Department

36
Why we brush the fabric?
Brushing is a finishing process used to raise the surface fibers of a fabric. The fabric undergoes a mechanical
brushing process in which fine, metal brushes carefully rub the fabric to produce fine fibers from the woven yarns,
creating extra softness on the surface of the fabric.

Name of Machine : Lafer

Origin :Italy
Model : GRI-90
Name of Company :SPA MACCHINE TESSILI
Brush Machine Production capacity: 1,72,800 yds/Month

ব্রাশ িং হল একটি শিশিশ িং প্রক্রিযা যা িযাশব্রককর উপশরভাকের তন্তু বাডাকত বযবহৃত হয। িযাশব্রকটি একটি
যাশিক ব্রাশ িং প্রক্রিযার মধ্য শিকয যায যযখাকি সূক্ষ্ম, ধ্াতব ব্রা গুশল যবািা সুতা যেকক সূক্ষ্ম তন্তু ততশর করকত
কাপডটিকক সাবধ্াকি ঘকে, যা িযাশব্রককর পৃকে অশতশরক্ত যকামলতা ততশর ককর।
 What is singeing ?
Singeing is a process of burning out and removing the extra protruding fibers or hairiness from the fabric surface to make smooth and ensure clean
appearance before next stage processing.

Why is singeing done?

Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface which allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen

Name of Machine: Dhall Singeing

. Origin :India
Company Name : Chopra Dhall Group
Production capacity:21,60,000 yds/Month

Singeing Machine

শসিক্র িং শক ? যকি করা হয ?

যয পদ্ধশতকত কাপকডর পৃকে অবশিত প্রক শটিং িাইবার যহযাশরিং িাইবার আলো সুতা ইতযাশি পুশডকয যিকল কাপড মসৃণ করা হয , তাকক শসিক্র িং বকল।কাপড
যক মসৃণ ও উজ্জ্বলতার িয শসিক্র িং করা অব যই প্রকযা ি । এিা ছাডাও কাপকডর পরবতী প্রক্রিযা সহ ও ত্রুটিমুক্ত করার িয শসিক্র িং করা আব যক।
সুন্দর ও সুক্ষ্ম ছাপার িয কাপর শসিক্র িং করা হয। িতু ি ছাপাকৃত কাপড শিখুত
ুঁ হয িা। প্রকযা কি কাপকডর একপাক অেবা উভয পাক শসিক্র িং করা হয।
শসিক্র িং করার মূল উকে য হকে আুঁ যপাডাকিা
What is denim finishing?
Denim finishing is a type of chemical and mechanical method used before denim fabrics from the textile industry reach the
customer. In other words, denim finishing is the process of making the fabric made from the factory suitable for the use of
the customer.

Name of Machine: Blutex

Origin :Italy
Name of Company :Cibitex S.R.L
Finishing Machine Production capacity:15,00,000 yds/Month

ডেনিম নিনিন িং কাকক বকে?

ডেনিম নিনিন িং হে এক প্রকার রাসায়নিক ও যানিক পদ্ধনি যা বস্ত্র ন ল্প ডেকক প্রস্তুকৃি ডেনিম কাপড় গ্রাহককর হাকি ডপ ৌঁছাকিার পূকব ে ব্যবহার করা হয়। অে াে ৎ
িযাক্টনর ডেকক তিনরকৃি কাপড়কক গ্রাহককর নিকট ব্যবহার উপকযাগী ককর ডগাকড় ডিাোর প্রনিয়াই হে ডেনিম নিনিন িং।
# Skewing
Skewing is mechanical processes settings of fabric or in updated skewing device in wet processing prior to drying to achieve
the required level of fabric skewing and bowing so that during garmenting of fabric the denim jeans is free from high level of
weft distortion.

Skew unit

স্কুইিং হল িযাশব্রককর যাশিক প্রকসস যসটিিংস বা আপকেি করা স্কুইিং শেভাইকস যভ া প্রকসশসিংকয শুকাকিার আকে প্রকযা িীয
স্তকরর িযাশব্রক স্কুইিং এবিং যবাশযিং অ ি
জ ককর যাকত িযাশব্রক পশরধ্াকির সময যেশিম ক্র ন্স উচ্চ স্তকরর ওকযিি শবকৃশত যেকক
মুক্ত োকক।
What is fabric shrinkage?
Fabric shrinkage is simply the extent to which a piece of fabric changes in length or width during the laundry
process.

িযাশব্রক সিংককাচি শক?

Kvc‡oi ms‡KvPb nj Gi ‰`N¨© ev cÖ‡¯’i cwieZ©b| GUv‡K mwVKfv‡e
Kvh©Ki Kivi Rb¨ cvjgv‡i Kvco‡K Pvc w`‡q wVK Kiv nq|
# Desizing/Washing
Washing treatment usually done when the fabric undergoes mercerizing process to wash out extra caustic soda in order to neutralize the
alkalinity of fabric pH value and avoid skin problem when fabric made into jeans or shirting. The fabric can also undergo washing process
despite of no mercerizes treatment just to remove more unfix dyes o fabric to improve the scale of color crocking fastness

Name of Machine: Saga Pad Steam Machine

Origin :China
Name of Company :Jiangsu Saga Textile Machinery
Wash Box Company Ltd.
Model : LMH924-200
Production capacity:6,48,000 yds/Month

ওযাশ িং টিিকমন্ট সাধ্ারণত করা হয যখি িযাশব্রক অশতশরক্ত কশিক যসাো যধ্াযার িয মারসারাইক্র িং প্রক্রিযার মধ্য শিকয যায যাকত
িযাশব্রককর pH মাকির ক্ষারত্বকক শিরকপক্ষ ককর এবিং যখি িযাশব্রক ক্র ন্স বা াটিজ িং করা হয তখি ত্বককর সমসযা এডাকত। রকের যিাশকিং
িািকিস যস্কল উন্নত করকত িযাশব্রককর আরও আিশিক্স রঞ্জক অপসারণ করার িয যকািও মাসারাই জ টিিকমন্ট িা োকা সকেও
িযাশব্রকটি যধ্াযার প্রক্রিযার মধ্য শিকয যযকত পাকর।
 # Mercerizing
Mercerizing is a process where the fabric is treated with cold alkaline solution usually caustic soda liquid with specific degree
baume to get a substantial effect of luster, sheen, glossy and flat looking fabric.

মাসারাইক্র
জ িং হল এমি একটি প্রক্রিযা যযখাকি িযাশব্রককক ঠাণ্ডা ক্ষারীয দ্রবণ শিকয সাধ্ারণত কশিক যসাো তরল শিশিজ ষ্ট শেগ্রী Baume শিকয
treatment করা হয যাকত িীশি, চকচকক, এবিং ফ্ল্যাি যচহারার িযাশব্রককর যকেষ্ট প্রভাব পাওযা যায।
# Overdyeing
This is an another type of finished fabric enhancement by means of coating or overdyeing with different color of
combination on top from original base color of fabric. The process will go in normal finishing range which has
dye and or chemical padding configuration with steaming zone chamber and undergo the coated fabric into
several washing treatments. The purpose of coating or overdyeing is to enhance a selective shade cast after
garment washed value added on product washed aesthetic look. Furthermore, the overdyed fabric will pass
through steaming chamber to fix the color and washed with several washing repeats, treated with softening
chemical agent, applies Skewing system, Dyeing, Stentering , Sunforizing, Cooling(palmering), and wound the
fabric in frame batch type or folding. The finished fabric will pass defects grading system, quality assurance and
fabric rolling for delivery.
এটি িযাশব্রককর মূল যবস রে যেকক উপকর শবশভন্ন রকের সিংশমশ্রকণ আবরণ বা ওভারোইকযর মাধ্যকম শিশি ে
িযাশব্রক বধ্কির
জ আকরকটি প্রকার। প্রক্রিযাটি স্বাভাশবক শিশিশ িং যরকঞ্জ যাকব যার মকধ্য শিশমিং য াি যচম্বাকরর
সাকে রঞ্জক এবিং বা রাসাযশিক পযাশেিং কিশিোকর ি রকযকছ এবিং প্রশলি িযাশব্রককক যব ককযকটি ওযাশ িং
টিিকমকন্টর মধ্য শিকয যাকব। আবরণ বা ওভারোইিং এর উকে য হল পণয যধ্াযা িান্দশিক যচহারাকত োকমন্টস জ
ওযা ে ভযালু যযাে করার পর একটি শিবাচিী জ য ে কাি বাডাকিা। অশধ্কন্তু, রে টঠক করকত ওভারোইে
িযাশব্রকটি শিশমিং যচম্বাকরর মধ্য শিকয যাকব এবিং যব ককযকটি ওযাশ িং শরশপি শিকয ধ্ুকয যিলা হকব, িরম
করার রাসাযশিক এক ন্ট শিকয শচশকত্সা করা হকব, স্কুইিং শসকিম, োইিং, যিিিার, সািকিারাইক্র িং, পামাশরিং
এবিং যেকমর বযাচ িাইপ বা ভাুঁক িযাশব্রককক ক্ষতশবক্ষত করা হকব। সমাি িযাশব্রক ত্রুটিগুশল যগ্রশেিং শসকিম,
গুণমাকির শিশ্চযতা এবিং যেশলভাশরর িয িযাশব্রক যরাশলিং পাস করকব
 # Stentering
Stentering is a process to enhance the running fabric width free from any width distortion especially on stretch fabric.

Name of Machine: SUN SUPER-II

Origin :Korea
Name of Company :IL-SUNG
Production capacity:34,46,000 yds/Month

Stenter Machine

যিিিাশরিং হল চলমাি িযাশব্রককর প্রি বাডাকিার একটি প্রক্রিযা যা যকাকিা প্রকির শবকৃশত যেকক মুক্ত, শবক ে ককর যেচ
d¨vweªK | cvkvcvwk d¨vwe†Ki j¨vKiv I †÷ªP Kgv‡bvi Rb¨ †÷bUvwis Kiv
nq|