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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL
OF CURRENT RESEARCH
International Journal of Current Research
Vol. 7, Issue, 09, pp.20775-20777, September, 2015
ISSN: 0975-833X RESEARCH ARTICLE
DEVELOPMENT OF KURTI’S BY ADAPTATION OF TRADITIONAL
PHULKARI EMBROIDERY FOR COLLEGE GOING GIRLS
*Neelam
Neelam Saini, Krishna Khambra and Saroj S. Jeet Singh
Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I. C. College of Home Science Chaudhary Charan Singh,
Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, India
ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT
Article History: Phulkari is a rural tradition art of crafting embroidered odhni used by women in Punjab, literally
Received 10th June, 2015 meaning" flower work ". This was adapted for development of women’s kurti for enhancing their look
Received in revised form and adding value. The study was conducted in Hisar city of Haryana state. A total of fif fifteen
23rd July, 2015 placements were made (three each for five kurtis) from selected designs. Out of fifteen placements
Accepted 15th August, 2015 most suitable five placements were selected by the experts for development of kurtis. These were
Published online 30th September, 2015 various developed placements of selected designs. Selected
Selected designs were geometrical which were
most preferred by experts on the basis of their appearance. Animal and floral designs were not
Key words: preferred for further work. Then five products were developed. These were then assessed by experts
Phulkari, as per appeal level of the developed designs and overall appearance.
Embroidery,
Traditional,
Kurti.
Copyright © 2015 Neelam Saini et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution
Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use,
distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Citation: Neelam Saini, Krishna Khambra and Saroj S. Jeet Singh,
Singh 2015. “Development
Development of kurti’s by adaptation of traditional phulkari
embroidery for college going girls”, International Journal of Current Research,
Research 7, (9), 20775-20777.
INTRODUCTION It is a form of craft in which embroidery is done in a simple
and sparse design over shawls, kurtis and dupattas. According
Embroidery has been one of the ancient techniques of textile to Rampa Pal (1976) the origin of phulkari is not quite fully
decoration. Since man began to wear clothes. As a method of known. Some say that art was brought by Gujar nomads from
decorating and embellishing clothing, embroidered designs Central Asiaa whereas some assert that the Muslim Persians
came out as a result of hard work and care. Embroidery being a who settled in Kashmir are responsible for it. It may have some
needle craft which has been passed on for generations, from association with Gulkãri of Persia which was practiced there. It
mother to daughter. No country in the world has such a rich is also said that the Jats,, the strongest claim in South East
heritage
age of beautifully embroidered costumes and fabrics as iculturists, introduced the art of phulkari
Punjab who are agriculturists,
India has. Each part of India has contributed much to the style wherever they went as they were a nomadic race ((Pandit,
of embroidery characteristic of its own tradition and culture. 1976).
Today, Punjab (Phulkari), Gujrat (Kutch), ), Kathiawar (Bead
Work), Karnataka (Kasuti), ), Uttar Pradesh (Chikankari),
( Punjab, is one of the most vibrant, dynamic and culturally rich
Bengal (Kanthas), Bihar (Kashida)) and Himachal Pradesh north western states of India, where people especially village
(Chamba)) still continue the tradition of embroidering beautiful women use their time productively by engaging themselves
pieces for their attire. Some scholars feel that the art of with various crafts. Women kurtis with phulkari embroidery
phulkari came from Iran where it is known own as Gulkãri. There are still in fashion. Girls more prefer embroidered kurtis with
are references to phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharata,
Mahabharata Guru unique designs. This embroidery on kurtis will look pretty and
Granth Sahib and the folk songs of Punjab. In its present form, enhance the beauty of wearer. Use of traditional designs for
phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century kurtis will help in the revival of traditional embroidery & give
AD, but the art probably reached its zenith in the late 19th and it a new look as per trends. Embroidered kurtis has become a
early 20th centuries. dress for adolescent girls, women’s these days & is in vogue.
*Corresponding author: Neelam Saini,
Today the phulkari has reached a new lev level; it now serves the
Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I. C. College of Home purpose of employment for lots of women in Punjab.
Science Chaudhary Charan Singh, Haryana Agricultural University,
Hisar, India
20776 Neelam Saini et al. Development of Kurti’s by adaptation of traditional Phulkari embroidery for college going girls
MATERIALS AND METHODS no.3rd of design no. 26a (2.60) placement no. 3rd of design no.
17a (2.53) was the most preferred placements which was used
The present study was conducted in Hisar city of Haryana for preparation of Kurtis. The results of Nameeta (2012) also
state. Total fifteen placements were developed with the help of reported that after preparing total twenty four placements for
coral draw on kurti. Total of five placements were selected on quilt cover, from these top eight were selected/ most preferred
the basis of weighted mean score. Selected five placements by respondent because of their overall look/ appearance. These
were used for the development of kurtis. Total five phulkari eight placements were used for development of product. Total
embroidered kurtis were developed. These were then assessed fifteen placements were developed for the kurtis, out of these
by expert’s preferences on the basis of weighted mean score. top five placements were selected for kurtis. These are:
All developed kurtis were elegant, stylized designs, unique
color combination. Developed kurtis were highly liked by Preferred placements of selected designs for Kurtis
experts.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
A total of fifteen placements were made (three each for five
kurtis). Out of fifteen placements most suitable five
placements were selected by the experts for development of
kurtis. These were various developed placements of selected
designs. Selected designs were geometrical which were most
preferred by experts on the basis of their appearance. Animal
and floral designs were not preferred for further. Beste (2009)
are in the lines of this study stated that the embroidered covers
and hangings of the Punjab known as phulkari and baghs, were
worked with mainly geometric designs in floss silk on hand-
woven cotton. In baghs, often only geometric patterns were
used (triangles, squares, diamonds). Other common motifs are
taken from daily life, and accordingly the pieces were given
very literal names such as gobhi (cauliflower) bagh and mirchi
(spinach) bagh. Shalimar and chaurasia baghs recall famous
Mughal gardens in their layout, while the ikka bagh is inspired
by playing cards (diamond). Placements were selected on the
basis of their weighted mean score. These are the preferred
placements shown in the table 1.
Table 1. Experts preferences for placements of designs on Kurtis
Development of Kurtis
Design Placement I Placement II Placement III Ranks
no. WMS WMS WMS Order
Top five placements were selected for product development so
5a 2.20 2.80 1.53 II
14b 2.06 2.26 2.93 I five kurtis were developed through these placements. These
17a 1.40 1.20 2.53 V were embroidered with phulkari embroidery with the selected
25a 1.33 1.60 2.73 III colours of pat threads. Embroidery was done on wrong side of
26a 1.46 1.26 2.60 1V the fabric, by counting the threads.
N=20, WMS –Weighted Mean Score
Table 2. Assessment of the developed Kurtis by experts as per
Data presented in table 1 indicated the preferences of the
appeal level of the developed designs and overall appearance
experts for different placements. It is evident from the data that
the weighted mean score of 3rd placements of design no.14b Kurti with Developed design Overall appearance
scoring (2.93) got 1st rank followed by 2nd placements of Embroidery WMS Ranks WMS Ranks
design no.5a scoring (2.80) got 2nd rank, 3rd placements of Design no.5a 2.44 II 2.80 III
design no.25a scoring (2.73) got 3rd rank, 3rd placements of Design no.14b 2.36 III 2.95 II
design no. 26a got 4rth rank and 3rd placements of design no. Design no.17a 2.08 V 2.60 V
Design no.25a 2.32 IV 2.75 IV
17a got 5th rank with weighted mean score 2.60 and 2.53 Design no.26a 2.56 I 3.00 I
respectively. The other placements and their weighted mean n=25
score in descending order were placement no. 1st of design no. WMS = Weighted mean score
5a (2.20) and placement 3rd (1.53), placement no.1st of design
no. 14b (2.06), 2nd placements (2.26), placement no.1 of design The table 2 shows that the evaluation of kurti was done on the
no.17a (1.40), placement 2nd (1.20), placement no. 1 of design basis of developed designs and overall appearance. Opinion of
no. 25a (1.33), 2nd placement (1.60), placement no.1st of experts regarding designs, colour combination of threads,
design no.26a (1.46), 2nd (1.26). Third placements of design placements of designs and designing features of kurtis was
number 14b (2.93) followed by placement no.2nd of design no. sought. Data in table 2 revealed that on the basis of developed
5a (2.80) placement no.3rd of design no 25a (2.73) placement designs kurti of design no.26a scored first rank scoring (2.56)
in terms of developed designs followed by kurti of design
20777 International Journal of Current Research, Vol. 7, Issue, 09, pp.20775-20777, September, 2015
no.5a got 2nd rank scoring (2.44), kurti of design no.14b got 3rd Total no. of five kurtis were developed which were assessed
rank scoring (2.36), kurti of Design no.25a got 4rth rank for their developed designs and overall appearance. Kurti with
scoring (2.32) and kurti of Design no.17a got 5th rank scoring design no. 26a got first rank for its appeal level; it was unique
(2.08).The weighted mean score given by experts for overall in design and placement.
appearance of the kurti presented in table 10and fig.4
elucidated that kurti of design no.26a scored first rank scoring REFERENCES
(3.00) followed by kurti of design no.14b with embroidery got
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with embroidery got 5th rank scoring (2.60). It is concluded Grewal, S. 2011. Adaptation of traditional embroidery designs
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Conclusion Indian Embroidery.htm.
It is concluded that total fifteen placements were developed
with the help of coral draw for the development of phulkari
embroidered kurtis. On the basis of weighted mean score top
five placements were selected for the kurtis.
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