MAKING

MODEL
AIRCRAFT
MAKING
MODEL
AIRCRAFT
Bryan Phiipott

Charles Scribner's Sons

NEW YORK
 Copyright © Bryan Philpott 1976

Copyright under the Berne Convention

All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be
reproduced in any form without the
permission of Charles Scribner's Sons

13 57911 13 15 17 19 I/C 20 18 16 14 12 108 64 2

Printed in Great, Britain

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 77-71693
ISBN 0-684-14957-5
 Contents
Foreword 7

one
Methods and motivation 9
two
Tools and techniques 17
three
Wooden models 25
four
Plastic models 38
five
Painting and airbrushing 58
six
Authentic finishes and special effects 75
seven
Conversions 95
eight
Scratch-building 134

Appendix 1
Magazines of interest to aircraft modellers 159
Appendix 2
Mail order model shops 160
 This book is dedicated

to mychildren
Corrine, Claire and Andrew
 Foreword
Model making is one of the oldest hob- elling provides such therapy; for even an
bies knownto man as is evidenced by the hour spent recreating a model of a sub-
models of soldiers, ships, animals, birds ject that one has a personal interest in, or
and other similar items recovered by that will recapture some aspect of a past
archaeologists from burial tombs and event, is time well spent, and should
excavation sites that date many cen- leave the participant completely relaxed.
turies before the birth of Christ. Most people are born with a certain
Since aircraft became a part of every- amount of inherent skill and only they
day life making models of them has can develop this from its dormant state
added another subject to the ever grow- to a level that they are prepared to
ing list of items that people have wanted accept as their own ultimate. Such skills
to capture in miniature. can be cultivated by reading and watch-
The advent of the plastic kit brought ing others, but the acid test comes when
the hobby within the reach of those with they are applied in a practical way. In
limited skills, who can now produce this book I have attempted to lay the
acceptable models of practically any sub- foundations, but not complete the house.
ject they choose. Some of the methods I have found useful
Model aircraft have always been popu- might not appeal to everyone, but if they
larand a complete industry has mush- sow the seeds from which alternative
roomed to provide the needs of those ways of achieving a common end result,
who practise the art, however seriously they will have fulfilled my intentions.
they might take it. One of the attractions Modelling is a very personal thing, a
of the hobby is that it relieves the strain fact that I make no apologies for con-
of everyday life, for however demanding tinually repeating in the text, so what-
one's normal occupation is, it can only ever you attempt or complete, is done
be followed successfully if some time is solely for your own benefit and if the
spent away from it in a world that is results please you then that is all that
completely divorced from reality. Mod- matters.
 Acknowledgements
In writing this book I have had to call on Charles King, Mike McEvoy, Les Vow-
the generosity of many to obtain help in les, Carl Wiegand, Larry Buettner, Joe
areas where my own interests and skills Daileda, Jim Maas, Richard Leask
have not matched theirs. The fact that Ward; members of various branches of
they all co-operated, and in some cases the International Plastic Modellers' Soc-
went doing so,
to considerable lengths in Maga-
iety; Flight International, Airfi.x
is evidence that modellers are
sufficient zine, Aviation News; The Royal Air
a friendly crowd and always ready to Force Museum; Hawker Siddeley Avia-
pass the benefits of their accumulated tion, North American Aviation,
knowledge to others. McDonnell-Douglas, The Imperial War
Museum; Krasel Industries Inc, Morris
I am particularly grateful to Tony
& Ingram (London) Ltd, Airfix Products
Woollett, who contributed the basis of
Ltd, Lesney Ltd, Revell (GB) Ltd,
the chapter on scratch-building and the
Monogram Models Inc; Al Trendle of
Comper Swift; Gordon Stevens of Rare- Minicraft; and other manufacturers
planes, and John Tarvin of Airframe,
whose products have been used; Martin
who helped in relation to vac-form kits; Holbrook who has provided all the draw-
Mike Ingham and Dave Howley, who
ings; and John Carter who did a great
answered many questions with consider-
deal to help with photography.
able patience; and the following model-
lers, manufacturers, historians, com-
Finally to my wife Susan, whose con-
stant encouragement has only been
panies and museums who all contributed
matched by her output of coffee and
something.
uncomplaining wielding of household
Geoff Prentice, John Carpenter, Mike equipment to keep my study clear of the
Gething, Alan W. Hall, Mike Silk, debris of modelmaking.
 one

Methods and motivation

It ispractically impossible to say exactly surfaces. The biggest problem that con-
when the first model aircraft was con- fronted all of these early aeronauts was
structed. Since it is not yet 75 years since the provision of a suitable power unit.
the Wright brothers made what is Manpower was considered in some
regarded as the first flight by man. this detail but even today this still eludes us
may seem an odd statement, as it could and there is considerable monetary
be argued that until aeroplanes existed, reward awaiting the first aircraft to fly
models of them could not be made. This over a mile powered by this means.
is indeed true as far as actual scale Once the problems had been ironed
replicas of full-size machines are con- out of the internal combustion engine, it
cerned, but one must not overlook the was soon realised that here was the per-
fact that for centuries the human race fect answer, and it then became just a
has been fascinated by flying and many matter of time before a unit which was
models were made —
some of which still light enough, and developed adequate
exist — of the creations that various power, was made and fitted into a suita-
pioneers felt would unlock the secrets of ble airframe.
aviation for them. The Wright brothers made this early
At Le Mans in France there is a paint- breakthrough and from their tentative
ing of the Virgin Mary holding the Christ steps the conquest of the air accelerated
child on her lap, clutched in his hands is to such a degree that within 15 years of
what appears to be some form of flying their flight at Killdevil Hill the aeroplane
model which bears a remarkable resemb- was being used in a major war. During
lance to a similar toy featured in paint- the following years the design of the
ings by Flemish artists in the early 14th aeroplane became more and more
century. The painting in France is dated sophisticated, passenger-carrying craft
about 1460 at which time the famous sci- were produced and put into operation,
entist and painter, Leonardo da Vinci, more effective methods of waging war
who it is known studied aeronautics and with the aeroplane were perfected, the
made many experiments with flying jet engine was invented, and the whole
models, was eight years old. So this cycle was reproduced using this form of
single piece of evidence points quite motive power. The result is that today it
conclusively to the existence of even ear- is possible for passengers to fly in super-
lier pioneers. sonic airliners at speeds that were not
Da Vinci and the other early even dreamed about by the Wright
experimenters based most of their brothers and were barely figments of the
designs on the principle of obtaining imagination only 25 years ago.
flight by emulating the birds; the power Alongside the evolution of the aero-
being derived by some form of flapping plane has grown the hobby of making
wing or mechanism, hence the name model aircraft which now stands as one
ornithopter. In the late 18th and early of the most skilful and absorbing
19th Century Sir George Cayley, a gifted interests open to both young and old
Englishman, took the studies started by alike.
his predecessors a stage further when he Flying models have developed at a
produced the first model that followed pace akin to that of their full-size coun-
the now accepted configuration of a fuse- terparts, with present day multi-channel
lage, wings and tailplane. He also radio-controlled models being as com-
realised that a cambered surface pro- plex, in their own way, as modern jet
duced and that control could be exer-
lift fighters and airliners.
cised by moving various parts of such Apart from the hobby aspect of model
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

aircraft, they also feature very promi-

nently in the design and development of
real aircraft. Most of these proceed from
the drawing board to three-dimensional
models used in wind tunnels to ascertain
their aerodynamic qualities, and then to
perfect scale replicas either as a sales aid
or a method by which future develop-
ments can be planned. In some cases
such models are in fact full-size replicas
in which instrument layouts, seating and
the installation of control systems is
planned to a very fine degree. So it is a
natural step for those who are in some
way or another motivated by aeroplanes
and aviation, to make their own models
of subjects that appeal to them. The
reasons behind such motivation are often
very personal, varying from individual to
individual, and similarly the materials
and methods used. But whatever the
guiding force, or the way the end result is
achieved, there is a common bond unit-
ing all such enthusiasts whatever their
occupation, colour, creed or age.
In addition to being used by aircraft
manufacturers, models are also used The instruction sheet for Skybird kit 24A,
extensively by the armed forces, as train-
Westland Lysander. This double-sided
ing aids in aircraft recognition, theory of
sheet and the 'blueprint' drawing are all
flight, logistics, and 101 other diverse
the instructions included with this 1937
subjects. A whole industry geared to
kit.

srrEicDS
No. 24A.

WESTLAND "LYSANDER"

ASStMBLJNO
^

SKYBIRDS,
3, ALDERMANBURY AVENUE,
LONDON, E.C 2

10
 METHODS AND MOTIVATION

produce models for these, .and other Atalanta Although cabin win-
airliner.
purposes, has evolved over the years, dows had to be paintedon to the wooden
but even so the numbers employed in the fuselages, cockpit canopies were pro-
capacity of professional model rtiakers is
^
vided for aircraft that had them, and over
minute when compared to those who the years standards improved in much
simply make models for a hobby. the same way as they have with the pres-
Until the 1930s wood was the com- ent day injection-moulded plastic kit.
monest material used in theconstruction During World War 2 construction kits
of full-size aeroplanes, and being readily of most of the aircraft used in that con-
available, easy to work with and com- flict became available, advertisements
paratively inexpensive, was also the and catalogues of the period listing such
medium chosen by modellers from which gems as the Chingford Model Aero-
to create their replicas. Long after this drome Ltd range of :48 scale kits includ-
1

material was abandoned by aircraft ing the Blackburn Skua and Boulton
manufacturers it was still the most popu- Paul Defiant at 6/9d; the Lockheed
lar medium for modellers, and indeed is Lightning and Douglas Boston at 8/9d,
still used today either to produce com- and the Caproni Re 2000 or Fw 190 at
plete models, to complement more mod- 6/-. Model
Aircraft Stores (Bourne-
ern materials, or as a basis from which to mouth) Ltd, 'Truscale" series of
in their
make master moulds from which com- 1:72 scale models, listed the inevitable
ponent parts can be formed. Spitfire and Bf 109 at 1/lOd, with the
In the early days of the hobby, model- Anson and Hampden at 2/6d and 3/ Id
lers drew their own plans from photo- being popular multi-engined kits. The
graphs, line drawings that appeared in same company also listed a series of
contemporary magazines, or by studying optional extras such as bombs, two and
the actual subjects at air pageants. As three bladed propellers, wheels and
the popularity of the hobby increased it transfer sheets, thus following the tradi-
was natural that a need would arise, from tion started by Skybirds who also had a
those who perhaps lacked the skills to range of extras including hangars,
carry out the necessary groundwork, for ground equipment and personnel.
commercially available kits. This These wartime kits introduced balsa
demand was met by several companies, wood as the medium for their main com-
who up until the end of the Second ponents although retaining hardwood
World War blossomed into an industry and metal pressings for cowlings,
devoted solely to meeting the needs of wheels, engines and propellers.
model aircraft enthusiasts. One of the Enthusiasts of the period tended to
most famous of these commercially eye the commercial kit with some scorn,
available ranges was marketed under the preferring to stick by their totally
name of Skybirds, the design of all of scratch-built models, but most of them
theirmodels being in the hands of that eventually made the change using the kit
well-known aviation exponent, the late as a basis from which to build and
James Hay Stevens. The component improvise to the high standards they had
parts of the kit were neatly presented in a set themselves.
flat cardboard box which contained a James Hay Stevens chose a scale of
line drawing of the model and a flat piece one inch = six feet, or 1:72, for his range
of cardboard to which all the various of Skybird models, and this became the
parts were attached. The major parts, accepted scale by serious collectors, as it
such as the fuselage, wings and tail- allowed both small and large aircraft to
planes, were cut roughly to shape in be modelled in a size that did not present
hardwood, whilst smaller components too many difficulties as far as display and
were of celluloid, brass and metal pres- storage was concerned, but at the same
sings. The first kit released was the time was big enough to allow detail to be
DH80 Puss Moth which retailed at l/6d included. The wisdom of his choice is
OVip). Although lacking in certain detail echoed by the fact that today this scale is
and in some respects being suspect in still the most popular and there are far

accuracy, the range proved popular and more 1:72 aircraft kits produced than any
was soon extended to include military as other.
well as civil types, two notable examples In the United States of America,
being the Handley Page Heyford modelling was just as popular following
bomber and the Armstrong-Whitworth similar development as in England.

11
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

FROG "PENGUIN" CONSTRUCTiONAL KITS

•mSTOl. •LtNMtlM-»U«l«M*l«INt $MTHM~HAWm» HU««lCANt-M*NOlt»

COMIHG SHORTLY! PACI "MAM^DIN"— HONOWAH AMtOUkNCt-WKTUANO tTIANOW

The original Frog Penguin 1: 72 scale catalogue. This was printed in full colour and some
of the subjects shown would be welcomed in present day ranges by most modellers. The
prices are also of interest, since 15/- (75p) in 1937 would have represented a much higher
percentage of a weekly wage in those days than a similarly priced kit does today.

However, the American modeller plans to 1:72 and 1:48 scales, whilst in
favoured the larger quarter inch = one England the Aeromodeller Plans Service
foot or 1:48 scale and the two most pro- could provide scale drawings of a wide
lific producers of kits in that country, range of contemporary aircraft at
Aircraft and Hawk —
who are still, inci- reasonable prices. Their opposite
dentally, in business producing plastic number in the USA
was Model Aero-
kits —chose this scale for their kits. plane News, which, although, like its
These were produced in the same way as English equivalent, was slanted primar-
their British counterparts using pre- ily at flying models, also provided a
shaped balsa and hardwood parts with plans service for non-flying scale mod-
metal pressings and acetate canopies. els.
The American kits were sought after in Just prior to the outbreak of World
England and several companies obtained War 2 the British company Frog pro-
agencies and imported them, although duced what can really be considered as
prices were higher than their home-built the forerunner of the modern plastic kit
competitors. when they launched the Penguin range.
Hardwoods such as Obechi, Pine, and These kits were moulded in a type of
Spruce were favoured by serious model- acetate plastic which could be glued
lers for, although it was more difficult to together with balsa cement, and the kits
work with, the end result was much bet- included all the major components
ter. But balsa also had its advantages, moulded in the correct shapes together
being easy to obtain and carve but need- with transparent canopies, and nicely
ing considerably more attention to final detgjled wheels and engines. The range
finishing if an acceptable paint job was to included most of the well-known aircraft
result. Magazines frequently published of World War 2 as well as some other

12
 METHODS AND MOTIVATION

interesting subjects such as the Short ing a plastic kit and constructing an
Empire flying boat, the Short Singapore accurate model from it. The plastic kit,
III and the Monospar ST25 Universal as did its wooden
forerunner, simply
Ambulance. provides the basic raw material which in
Many thought that this type of kit the right hands can be made into an
would spell the death knell of the exhibition showpiece. The only differ-
wooden kit but this was not the case, for ence is that the groundwork required in
although they were popular and in fact the wooden kit, carving the basic parts to
are still sought after as collectors' items, shape before detailing them, has already
they only had a short life after the war been done to a much higher standard
and went out of production long before than 99 per cent of modellers making
the last surviving wooden kit manufac- wooden kits could hope to achieve.
turer put up his shutters. Penguin kits The first of the new-style plastic kits
were easy to construct but the early type appeared in late 1949/early 1950, at
plastic was very prone to warping which which time Veron in England were still
proved to be a major disadvantage and producing kits in the then conventional
one that was not solved until the advent solid style with pre-formed balsa parts.
of the polystyrene kit. Modellers, who a The Veron range was probably the last
few years earlier had deprecated the use in a long line of such kits and when they
of any form of kit, but then gradually eventually ceased production in the face
changed to it, soon condemned the Pen- of growing competition from the plastic
guin range as being too easy and taking model manufacturers, their range
the pleasure out of modelling. This included aircraft of the World War 2
attitude manifested itself again during period as well as the Canberra, Javelin,
the early days of the polystyrene plastic Wyvern and F-86 Sabre, to mention just
kit during the 1950s, but the latter a few post-war examples.
became much more established than the Compared with modern plastic kits the
Penguin series, and today it is realised offerings of 25 years ago are extremely
by all but the very few, that there is a crude, but such is the mark of progress
vast difference between simply assembl- that in a further quarter century the same

An example of one of the first types of plastic kit, in this case the components of the
Penguin Short Singapore flying boat. Kits of this type have become collectors' items and
fetch very high prices when offered for sale.

13
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

This pair of photographs shows the complexity of the moulds used to produce a modern
injection-moulded kit. The moulds require precision machining and cost many thousands
of pounds. This particular set is for the Matchbox F-14 Tomcat (photos courtesy Lesney
Products Ltd).

words might equally apply to the models best to get the plastic kit into perspective
we enjoy today which will form the right at the start and view it simply as a
major content of this book. means to an end; that end being the use
Although generally speaking most of the kit as raw material to produce a
manufacturers now strive for accuracy scale model of which the builder can be
and produce kits that, when assembled proud.
straight from the box, will result in The choice that now faces anyone
acceptable models, it is as well to about to start making model aircraft as a
remember that to these manufacturers hobby is considerable, so from the
the end product is not aimed at the beginning it is best to decide how far the
specialist modeller. Their kits are hobby is to extend, the purpose of the
designed for the youngster who has an resulting collection, and the standards to
interest in aviation and making a model be aimed for.
that to him is perhaps no more than a One of the most important factors that
plaything. It is therefore invidious for governs the hobby and is a natural ques-
the small percentage of those who take tion which follows the answers to the
the hobby seriously to comment about points raised, is the scale in which the
minor errors that they consider should modeller decides to work. If the object
have been put right during the origina- of making models is to produce a series
tion of the mould. It is possible to read of aeroplanes that tell a story, or depict a
criticism of such-and-such a kit in which particular stage in the development of
the under-wing camber or some othei aviation, it is desirable to use the same
part is not as it should be, but such cri- scale throughout so that comparisons
tics should remember that, while it is can be made. On the other hand if it is
possible for any manufacturer to pro- intended to build only the occasional
duce a model that is 100 per cent accu- model which has no relationship to its
rate in every detail, the moulding and predecessor or successor, then scale is
tooling costs necessary would result in a not so important. But the scale finally
model that would be well above the price chosen must be arrived at with some
range for which it is aimed. In any case, thought. There would be little point in
if a model that met the pernickety starting out to produce a collection of
demands of the purists was produced, 1:24 ^cale models of aircraft used by the
there would be nothing left for them to Royal Air Force, for apart from the fact
practise their skills on, so it is perhaps that one would soon run out of available

14
 METHODS AND MOTIVATION

kits, there would also be considerable model is equal to six feet on the real

storage or display problems. On the machine. So it will be appreciated that a

other hand if one wants to spend several model with a scale of 1:100 will be
months making, for example, a model of considerably smaller than a model to a
a Hellcat that is complete in every minor scale of 1:24 and so on. Although, as
and major detail, it would be better to already stated, 1:72 scale is generally
select a 1:32 scale kit than a 1:72 scale regarded as the most popular, especially
one. if a large collection is envisaged, both

As with any type of hobby the final :48 and

1 100 are increasing in populari-
1 :

path that is pursued is very much a mat- ty, the former enabling the art of adding
ter of personal choice, so whatever scale detail to be practised in a collection that
you eventually come down in favour of will not present unsurmountable storage
must remain yours and nobody else's problems, whilst the latter is still large
decision. enough to add refinements while at the
If you are one of those people who are same time keeping even very big aircraft
confused by even elementary mathe- in manageable proportions.
matics a simple rule of thumb when con- Although it might sound somewhat
sidering the variety of scales from which contradictory to what has been written
to choose is, that the larger the model the so far, it sometimes pays to build the
smaller the fraction used to express it. In occasional model outside the scale cho-
the case of a :72 scale model the propor-
1 sen as this not only broadens the outlook
tions of the model are 72 times smaller but can also provide useful information.
than those of the actual aircraft, so an If, for example, a collection of 1:72
aircraft with a wingspan of 72 feet fighters is being produced, it will often
would be represented by a model with a be worthwhile building one in 1:32 or
wingspan of one foot, or expressed in a 1:24 scale with a view to incorporating
different way, every one inch on the the additional detail that is provided by

Scale table showing proportions of scales

1 14'% 1:100 1:72

/ / y^
y
/ / y
/ / /
y
/ / y
/ / /
/ / y
/
/ / y
__ ._. __ __ .-. __ __ __ __ -/ ._. __ ._. /- _. __ __ _. .-.
y
^
/
/ / 1

^/
/ / y 1

^ -^

/ / /^
^ -^
1

/
/ y
y 1 /-
/

/ / y 1

/ / y J-^
-^ 1:36

/ / /
y
^ -y
1
^ ^ "
1:32

/ / y 1
^
^ A -^
/ / y ^ ^
^^
^ \-
/ / / ^" ^
-^
/ / y ^ ^ ^ ''
_, ^
y
/ / y ^ ^' '-' '^ --

/ / / ^/ ^ --
--'
^^ "' '
/
/ / ^ ^ ^ "' \

-'
/ /y ^
:::^

-^
;

/ / 1

^ y. 1

0^ s^ ^ fi-m _ _ fWT WW ,__ „ W*T prrrr pfw ^ ^ ^ L. P^ ^ ^ ,

„_ _
8 9 10 11 12 / 13 14 15 16 17 18 Cm
Example: Spitfire V
Full size length — 12m 9.
1:72 scale length — 12.67cm
15
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

the manufacturer in the larger kit with really too difficult to make an inspired
scratch-built parts in the smaller one. A guess because those models
at the latter
very good example of this is the which are likely to have that elusive
extremely accurate cockpit detail which quality of sales appeal, and will therefore
is included in large scale kits, and can be probably appear in some manufacturer's
scaled down and used in a smaller scale range, become rather obvious with prac-
equivalent which has rudimentary or no tice. Those rarities which were used in
such detail included in the basic kit. One small quantities or are derivatives of
excursion outside the chosen scale is existing airframes are not likely to
usually enough to get the general idea become available in injection-moulded
and it goes without saying that it would kits and reliance will therefore have to be
be quite wrong to display the completed place on some of the specialist vac-form
large scale model along with its smaller kit makers, or conversions of existing
brethren. kits. Such a list will help in several ways,
Once again it is dangerous to be too and if you are a complete newcomer to
dogmatic about this for in some cases, to the hobby it is best to start with straight-
show a truly representative collection of forward kits and gradually progress to
a chosen theme, it may be necessary to conversions and vac-form kits as your
use two different scales. A good example skills develop. a while, it
If, after
of this would be, shall we say, a collec- becomes apparent you
that you have
to
tion depicting aircraft used by the Royal neither the expertise nor time to proceed
Air Force in post-war years. Most of the to specialist conversions and models,
kits required are available in 1:72 scale, then you can still derive pleasure from
but at the time of writing there are no kits staying with standard kits and adjusting
in this scale of the Comet, VC 10 or the your collection accordingly. Many new-
three V bombers. Unless you want to comers have been lost to the hobby by,
scratch-build these and maybe other to use a hackneyed expression, 'trying to
examples in the common scale, the only run before they can walk', in tackling dif-
alternative is to use kits that are avail- ficult conversions from the very begin-
able in 1:144 or 1:96 scales, and provid- ning, getting very frustrated and ending
ing these are displayed quite separately up abandoning model aircraft making
from the main 1:72 scale collection they completely.
will not cause any offence. But it cannot The important thing to keep in the
be repeated enough that matters such as front of your mind is that making models
this and many others in modelling are is a hobby and if the end result satisfies
entirely the decision of the person con- you has achieved its aim. Naturally it
it

cerned and should not be influenced in is desirable to aim for as high a standard
any way by outside agencies. as possible, but if you feel that what you
Having selected a scale and theme it is produce is the best you can manage, and
a good idea to plan the collection by not- it has given you pleasure, then you have

ing the models that are to be included succeeded, whatever comments might
and whether or not they are available in be made by the many self-appointed
kit form, or indeed likely to be. It is not experts whom all hobbies attract.

16
 two

Tools and techniques

The type, quality, and quantity of tools a lightweight style handle and buy two,
necessary to make model aircraft one for use with large blades for heavy
depends on many factors ranging from cutting work and the other for finer
the depth of the individual's pocket to blades for more detailed work. Knives of
the extent one wishes to pursue the hob- the type manufactured by Humbrol and
by, and the chosen medium in which the X-Acto are ideal as they will accept all
models are to be produced. It is possible types of blade but the advantage of hav-
to reach a very high standard with a bare ing two far outweighs the chore of having
minimum but most modellers find that to constantly change blades. The two
over a period of time they collect a vari- types mentioned have round handles
ety of implements that make their chosen with a knurled chuck which makes
task easier. Some of these are tools blade-changing simplicity in itself. Flat
designed to perform specific functions handled scalpels, examples of which are
whilst others are adapted from house- produced by Swan Morton, also accept
hold objects to perform jobs that are far blades of different shapes and sizes but
removed from their originally designed in these the blade clips over a fixing lug.
tasks. This type of knife is usually found in art
Whatever the material chosen, be it shops or medical supply stores, it is a
plastic, wood or paper, a good quality very fine piece of equipment with blades
modelling knife is essential. Such knives that are extremely sharp, and great care
are readily obtainable from model shops is needed when changing them. A scalpel

or those specialising in artists' materials. of this type is worth its weight in gold to
The type with interchangeable blades is the modeller and purchase of, say, the
popular but in many cases these can be number 3 handle and a variety of blades
large and unwieldy so it is better to select is strongly recommended.

Three types of commonly used

modelling knives

Heavy duty knife

for cutting thick
sprue and plastic card

Scalpelfor
fine work

General purpose knife

Scalpel blades

17
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

The basic tools which will prove adequate for almost every type of modelling need. On
the left is a razor saw, tweezers and pin vise. The centre contains three types of file, a
modelling knife and a scriber, while the three most commonly used paintbrushes are on
the right. Forming the base is a steel rule which is vital, especially in scratch-building
and assembling vac-form kits.

Whatever type of knife is selected it whatever material is chosen for use. As

should be looked after with care and the with any type of tool it is false economy
blades changed frequently if sharp, accu- to try and make do with an inexpensive
rate cuts are to be made. Such knives item, as it will be found that it has to be
should always be stored carefully away replaced fairly frequently so the outlay
after use. preferably with some form of over a period of time exceeds the cost of
protection over their blades and in a sea- a well-produced item during the initial
led box. This is especially important if stages.
small children have access to the place There are many occasions when a
where modelling equipment is kept when knife,however good it might be, is just
it is not in use. It must be remembered not man enough to tackle some jobs, so
that the sole purpose of any knife is to thought should be given to purchasing a
cut, it is not choosy as to what material it saw or saws. A razor saw which has a
cuts, so fingers poked into boxes in wooden handle with a blade backed by a
which knives might have been stiff strengthener will pay for itself over
haphazardly thrown are as vulnerable as and over again in any sort of modelling,
the material from which your models are and if you can afford them a small coping
being constructed. Blades are not expen- saw as well as a fretsaw will provide the
sive and it is always wise to keep a selec- answer to some of the more intricate cut-
tion available. Those that become too ting problems that might arise.
blunt for their main purpose should also Having acquired the basic cutting
be stored somewhere safe as they can be implements, thought must be given to
used for a variety of other tasks, such as some form of drill. There are one or two
scraping, marking control surfaces, or miniature power drills designed specifi-
even as a form of spatula for applying cally for modellers and one of these such
filler. as that marketed by Petite Precision or
The versatility of a good quality mod- the 'British company. Expo Drills Ltd,
elling knife will quickly become apparent will be the ultimate. These drills can be

18
 TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES

used with a host of attachments for A scriber is a tool that is not expensive
grinding, cutting and polishing as well as to buy but has 101 uses ranging from its
their prime purpose of drilling holes. designed use of marking lines, to holding
They are a luxury which one can live and picking up small pieces. Hand-in-
without but an ideal piece of equipment glove with the scriber goes a steel rule
for the modeller who is going to spend a which, in my opinion, is the only suitable
lot of time on his hobby and wants the implement to use when marking out on
very best. For the average modeller — if any material either with a scriber or pen-
indeed there is such a person — a small cil. It can also be used as a straight edge
pin vice and a set of fine drills will prove for cutting against since there is no
adequate. Drills and burrs can be expen- danger of the knife taking out a piece of
sive but those used in the dental profes- the rule as there is with the wooden or
sion are ideal for model making, and a plastic variety.
friendly dentist will often be pleased to There are many occasions during the
pass some of his discarded ones to you. construction of a model when a third
Although such discards might be useless hand helps to retain sanity and stem
as far as drilling molars is concerned, frustration, at such times a small vice
they will still be sharp enough and have will provide the ideal answer and the
plenty of life left when it comes to using type that clamps to the working area is a
them in modelling. A standard pin vice useful investment.
can be obtained at most hardware stores The handling of small parts can also
and will accept dental drills as well as the present problems but these will shrink to
normal small engineering drill. On many insignificance if the help of a pair of
occasions, especially if plastic is being tweezers is enlisted. The type that the
used, it will be sufficient to use the drill lady members of the household use for
between the fingers, but on thicker plas- plucking eyebrows is ideal and can be
tic and other materials, the pin vice will obtained for a modest outlay at most
give a much better grip and be easier on chemist or chain stores. If you want to
the fingers. spend a little more, industrial style
tweezers can be bought at hardware
A steel rule being used in conjunction with shops and one type that is particularly
a Swann Morton scalpel to cut plastic card. useful has a reverse action to that which
This type of modelling knife is very sharp is normally accepted. This means that
and when being used in this way must be the actual tips that do the gripping are
held firmly but not pressed too hard closed until the legs are squeezed
otherwise the blade will break. The steel whereupon they open, so small compo-
rule must also be held rigidly in position to nents can be held very firmly without
prevent accidents and ensure a straight having to concentrate on keeping pres-
cutting edge. sure applied with the fingers; once the
part is correctly in place, or the work on
it completed, slight pressure is applied

and the tips release their grip.

A set of files comprising one that is
round, a half-round and a flat one just
about completes the essentials that need
to be purchased. Once again the cost of
these depends a great deal on just what
you want for your particular modeUing,
and the use to which they are going to be
put. A set of precision Swiss files can
cost a great deal of money and in some
respects will have a limited use. whereas
a fairly good quality set of small files of
the shapes mentioned with perhaps a
triangular one thrown in, can be bought
for a reasonable sum at chain stores or
hardware shops. Generally speaking the
plastic modeller will be able to manage
with less variety than his colleague who
chooses wood or those who use a variety

19
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

of materials in scratch-building. tail sticks, knitting needles, paperclips,

There are many other items such as and items that can be found in most
soldering irons, magnifying glasses, domestic tool boxes, such as pliers, wire
small power saws or even a miniature cutters and even small hammers, can
engineering lathe, that some modellers provide the answer to a seemingly dif-
will want or have, but one must view the ficult problem, so before rushing out to
hobby realistically and leave such items buy a sophisticated tool try to adopt the
to the whim or needs of the person con- attitude of looking around the house first
cerned. Many readers will no doubt then modifying or adapting an apparently
strongly disagree with my comments in useless — as far as modelling is con-
this respect, but the hobby, and what cerned — item. It is surprising just what
you want from it, must be placed in the the human brain will come up with if it is
right perspective, and I am looking from given a free rein now and again.
the point of view of the person who A
good illustration of this philosophy
wants to make models from which he is the use of a cylinder-type vacuum
will derive pleasure in moments of leis- cleaner as the motive power for a
ure rather than the accomplished model home-made vac-form machine. This
engineer, who will probably not need my very useful tool is a boon to all modellers
advice anyway! and is an extremely expensive item to
Other items that can be classified in acquire from commercial sources, that is
the category of tools can be obtained unless you are lucky enough to be able to
from a multitude of sources. Clamps, to locate one of the small vac-form
hold parts that are glueing or must be machines that was marketed in America
glued together under pressure, can be by the Mattel Toy Company. Readers
adapted from nothing more elaborate who are familiar with American model-
than the common household spring-peg, ling magazines will often have read arti-
while in cases where these do not exert cles on modelling in which the author
enough pressure, spring clips of the type mentions that he has formed new
obtainable in various sizes from station- canopies or components on such a
ery shops prove ideal substitutes. Cock- machine, and been left wondering
exactly what it is. The Mattel Vac-form
A Mattell vac-form machine with one half was manufactured as a toy and could be
of a Neptune wing tank in position (see bought in the USA as a complete kit with
chapter seven). The plastic sheet from moulds to produce a variety of small
which the tank will be made is just softening toys. It was not long before modellers
in the heat chamber at the top of the picture. recognised the use of this item as it pro-

Modifying domestic spring peg for

use as clamp
Cut off here
Drill hole for hanging up ;

Fine flat
point to hold
fairly large
flat areas

Small point
for delicate
parts that
need clamping
whilst glue sets

Universal end for

, holding round parts
or as flat clamp, etc

20
 TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES

vided a simple foolproof method of Should you be lucky enough to obtain

moulding without the headaches of hav- one you will find that as it is designed for
ing to produce both male and female use on the American electrical system it
moulds as is necessary with the method will require a 1 10 or 1 15v supply. As the
generally in use in this country. The Britishdomestic supply is 240v a step-
Mattel tool consists of a metal box with a down transformer is needed, but an
frame at the top in which there is a plat- auto-transformer with 240v input and
form on which the 'master' is placed. several voltage output taps can be
Alongside this there is a heating chamber obtained for about £4 from specialist
into which fits a clamp for holding the radio shops.
material that is to be formed. When the However, the fact that this commer-
heating element is switched on the plas- cially available item may be difficult to
tic moulding material softens and when it obtain should not be too much of a
has reached a flexible state it is swung deterent as it is not very difficult to make
over the original master and the air is a vac-form that will perform equally as
extracted from under it by a hand oper- well.
ated pump, which pulls the moulding Basically, the unit consists of a box
material over the 'master' and very with an area to accept the master mould,
quickly forms an accurate copy. This a frame to hold the moulding material
vac -form tool A'as not very expensive (plastic card) and an inlet in which to
and its only limitations were the small insert the vacuum cleaner pipe. The
moulding area which measures about 7 x accompanying drawings have not been
8 cm, adequate for canopies, seats, dimensioned as the overall size is related
bombs, wheels and similar small items to the size which you will find most con-
but not big enough for many major com- venient for the amount and type of
ponents. Apart from forming pieces moulding you want to do. It is advisable
carved from wood it could also be used to avoid too big a box as the area from
to remould kit canopies where the parts which the air has to be extracted should
included in the kit were too thick, or not be too large or problems in relation
were more accurate than parts included to the amount of suction available from
in another kit and so could be copied for the cleaner will result.
use with the inferior product. Although The example I made was approxi-
the Mattel Vac-U-Form, to give it its full mately 25 X 20 cm which gave a mould-
title, appears to be no longer in produc- ing area of 20 x 13 cm, big enough for
tion, it is worth looking around for one as a complete fuselage for a 1:72 scale
it will prove a worthwhile investment. Meteor 8 which was one of the main

A simple home-made vac-form tool , Plastic card sandwiched

in frame
J^
5
Mesh base

Seal all joints Vacuum cleaner inlet

10 clamping screws through

holes marked with a

Moulding frame. Make

3, two from ply one
Draught excluder or Vacuum cleaner pipe
from aluminium
foam rubber strips inserted here
Dimensions to suit individual requirements (see text)

21
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

reasons why it was produced in the first aluminium. Since the former chips easily
place. and is hard to work with, it will be found
Start by mailing a box minus the lid. that aluminium is ideal. Cut out the three
Use 15 mm
thick ply and make sure that frames then bond one of the ply ones to
all the joints are air-tight, this being the aluminium one with a quick-setting
achieved by the liberal use of epoxy epoxy resin such as Devcon, Araldite or
resin along the seams. One side of the Britfix. Drill two holes in each side, a
box must have an inlet for the vacuum total of eight, making sure that these are
cleaner pipe and the shape of this of sufficient clearance to allow a bolt to
depends on the type of cleaner available. pass through them. Use counter-sunk
The one I used had a very narrow rather than cheese-head bolts, counter-
rectangular ended attachment that fitted sinking the aluminium frame to accept
to the normal extension tube, so a slot the heads. If wing nuts can be obtained
was cut into which this was a tight push- they certainly make the task of reloading
fit. It might be necessary to use a tube much easier, but if not. use ordinary
with a circular cross-section so an inlet hexagonal nuts.
can be fabricated from rubber tubing The method of use is to cut a piece of

bonded to the hole in the box, the end plastic card to the frame, drilling the
fit

result will be the same providing ade- location holes using the frame as a tem-
quate care is taken over sealing as this plate, then insert this into the frame and
must be absolutely airtight. After making tighten the nuts to hold the sandwich
the hole from which the air will be rigid. Place the master mould on the
extracted, line the inside around it with moulding bed. holding it in place with
foam rubber just toensure that it is even two small pegs fixed to its undersurface
harder for the air toescape. or a blob of Plasticine. Thus is not abso-
Once the basic box is complete make lutely essential as suction will hold it
the lid which must have the moulding firm during the moulding process. The
it. Use this as a template to
area cut into vacuum cleaner pipe is pushed into the
mark-out the size of the frames that will hole in the base of the box, making sure
hold the moulding material and make that it is set to suck not blow! The
sure that this work is carried out accu- moulding frame complete with its plastic
rately. Once the lid has been made, fix a card insert is held under the cooker grill
strong piece of wire gauze on the inside until the plastic starts to soften, where-
completely covering the moulding area, upon it is quickly removed and placed
this acts as a base for the master mould over the mould, it is at this point that the
and it must be rigid or the vacuum importance of the earlier mentioned
cleaner will suck it down, the result location strips will be revealed. The vac-
being a curved bottom line to the final uum cleaner, which can be switched on
mould. Hardware and DIY shops usu- just prior to the removal of the frame
ally have some fine mesh sheet brass from the grill, will suck the soft plastic
which is used to cover ventilation holes over the shape of the mould and the
in kitchen equipment, and this is ideal for result should be a perfectly moulded
our purpose. shape. If the tool has been made small
Once the wire gauze has been fitted to enough, or if you have a large grill, the
the inside of the moulding area, fit the lid whole assembly can be placed under the
to the rest of the assembly, once again grill from the very beginning and the
ensuring that all joints are air-tight. cleaner switched on as soon as the plas-
Around the edges of the hole in the top, tic shows signs of softening, this allows
fit strips of draught excluder as shown on heat to be continuously applied while the
the drawings, then fit two pieces of wood shape is forming. If this is done do not
along one short and one long side — switch off the cleaner until the heat
these are the locating points for the source has been removed or the shape
moulding frame —and ensure that this will quickly disappear. It is also wise to
always lines-up correctly every time switch off the cleaner as soon as the
with the moulding area. The frame that shape is rigid, for once the air has been
holds the plastic card is perhaps the most removed, providing your joints are air-
important part as far as accuracy is con- tight, the cleaner motor will start to
cerned, and consists of three compo- overheat. The cost of a new motor will
nents. Two of these are made from ply lead not only to an expensive model but
and the other from asbestos or also a distinct drop in popularity of mod-

22
 TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES

It is a good idea to make

a modelling table with storage area to keep all parts and
equipment This is particularly useful if modelling activities are
easily accessible.
limited to dining room/ kitchen table etc

Lip to keep pieces

Shelves for storing
withinwork area
paint, knives, etc
and stop them being
knocked on to floor

Storage boxes for

spare parts, etc

elling in general from the owner of the vide success every time it is used. If you
cleaner! are going to make wooden masters, a
It is also advisable to wear oven hard wood such as Obechi is better than
gloves during the moulding process as balsa as it will last longer, give a better
the heat generated from most domestic defined mould, and not leave any grain
cooker grills is very high. marks on the inside of the part moulded.
Should you have doubts about your Body-putty or some other form of fil-
the original moulding
skills in fabricating ler such as the type used in automobile
box, a metal conduit box used in electri- repairs, one of which is popularly known
cal installation work, and available in a as 'Green Stuff, will need to be used in
variety of sizes, will provide a ready- some quantity during modelling and it is
made substitute, but it will still be neces- always useful to have some form of
sary tomake a moulding frame and fit spatula with which to apply and smooth
some form of moulding bed to the metal it into areas where its presence is
box. required. Such spatulas can be formed
This simple piece of equipment ena- from plastic or wood but again if your
bles parts to be copied from existing kits dentist is a friendly person who can be
as well as components carved from balsa approached, the type of tool he uses in
or obechi to be produced in quantity. attending to teeth is very useful. These
Remember though, that it is illegal to come with a variety of shaped ends and
copy components of existing kits and sell one particularly useful one has a flat
them on a commercial basis. spade-like shape which is ideal for the
The old method of making a mould purpose. The use of all the tools men-
from wood then cutting its shape into tioned, and others, will become apparent
another piece of wood over which plastic as further chapters are read, but there
card or acetate sheet is placed and will be other occasions when a tool can
heated for the original to be plunged be successfully used in some job that is
through, is an effective method of form- far removed from that for which it was
ing parts as will be seen in the chapter on originally intended.
scratch-building, but the vac-form tool Although not strictly coming under the
does away with the accuracy required in heading of tools, some form of lamp is
making a female mould, and once its virtually essential for it is always wise to
techniques have been mastered will pro- have adequate light present when model-

23
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

ling. The adjustable type of lamp such as mind which will produce neater and bet-
the Anglepoise is ideal as the arm of this termodels. After all, if at the start of a
can be adjusted at will to give light modelling session you have to hunt
exactly where and when you need it. around for tools, parts, and other odds
There are very few modellers who and ends, some of which you might not
have a separate work room or study remember where you last put them, a
which is entirely their own to use as and feeling of impatience and frustration will
when they want to. Such a room is, of occur and this is quite easily transferred
course, an ideal luxury as it can be laid to the model being constructed.
out to suit the individuaFs needs and As your modelling develops and the
parts can be left to set without fear of variety of kits purchased grows, there
them being disturbed. However, the will be an accumulation of spare parts
majority will have to produce their mod- especially as it is now customary for
els in a variety of environments, but this most kit manufacturers to include alter-
does not mean that they cannot provide native parts in standard kits. Such parts
themselves with some form of portable should NEVER be discarded but con-
work area that can be stored away when signed to what most modellers call their
not in use and produced during a model- 'spares box'. It is surprising just how
ling session without upsetting the domes- quickly such a box will grow in content
tic harmony of the rest of the household. and its use cannot be emphasised
A simple wooden tray for a modelling enough, as it will often produce a part
board, with tools contained in a separate that is ideal for a conversion or scratch-
box, is a neat and simple solution, but for built model. It is well worth considering
the expenditure of a very small sum of the purchase of another set of the small
money it is possible to make a custom- boxes mentioned for the work board, as
built modelling board that is more or less these will enable the accumulation of
completely self-contained. The drawings spare components to be broken down
illustrate a basic design that can be mod- into their classifications thus leading to
ified as circumstances dictate, it can be easy location when they are needed.
as elaborate as you care to make it and as Should you do this do not throw away all
experience is gained there will be addi- the runners or sprue to which the parts in
tions to be made as your own interests a kit are attached, as this plastic has a
and techniques develop. The modelling 101 uses and a ready supply of it is
area has a lip similar to the earlier men- always useful. Another source of acquis-
tioned tea-tray. This is a vital part as it ition for component parts is children's
does prevent small pieces being swept toys, these days a lot of these are pro-
on to the floor, but it does have its disad- duced in plastic, and once junior has
vantages especially when one wants to broken or discarded them they can yield
clean the surface of small offcuts and a treasure chest of pre-shaped curves,
sanding dust. This is overcome by hav- plastic windows, wheels and many other
ing a supplementary board that can be bits and bobs. A
good example of this is
placed on the normal working area when that TonyWoollett, who contributed the
a lot of cutting or sanding, as is neces- chapter on scratch-building, used the
sary with wooden or vac-form models, is seats from a child's double-decker bus as
needed. The shelves at the back enable the basis from which he produced the
paintbrushes and other tools to be kept interior for one of his between-the-wars
safely and the small drawers, which can passenger aircraft. This saved Tony end-
be a commercially produced unit of the less time in building these components
type available in Woolworths or Hal- from scratch as the basic seats were
fords, will keep smaller tools and com- there and only needed modifying to meet
ponents safe, i have seen a similar work his particular requirements for the model
area complete with folding sides and he was constructing at the time. So try to
doors that can be closed up and trans- develop a sort of jackdaw instinct and
ported with a carrying handle on the top; after a while you will find that many
the final choice is yours but a clean, tidy apparently useless pieces of rubbish can
work area saves time at the start of each be used effectively during your model-
session, and will lead to a methodical ling activities.

24
 three

Wooden models
The plastic construction i<it is now well dent on the individual concerned. With
established as the most popular method practice a model that equalled today's
of making scale models as it provides the injection moulded kits could be pro-
raw material from which even the most duced, but such a high standard was
impecunious enthusiast can produce a usually beyond the limits of most who
reasonable replica of an aircraft of his took up the hobby. Nonetheless, solid
choice. The dedicated modeller uses the modelling was a popular hobby that
plastic kit as a means to an end rather flourished until the more modern style of
than an end in itself, and considerable kit pushed it into the background. In
skill is required to turn what is basically many ways there is little difference bet-
a mass-produced item into a near-perfect ween the wooden kit and its modern
and true to scale model. During the plastic counterpart, for although the lat-
hey-day of the wooden model, or to give ter, due to its pre-formed shape,
itthe term it was most commonly known removes a great deal of the hit-and-miss
by, the solid model, this in itself was of carving, it still leaves considerable
used as the stepping stone from which scope for the true modeller. There is a
many splendid collections originated. vast difference between assembling the
The skill of the modeller concerned components provided then painting them
was an important criteria, as carving the in the colours recommended by the
roughly shaped parts provided was not manufacturer, to judging each part on its
easy and the end result was very depen- merits, making alterations to improve

An unusual subject which would make an ideal plastic kit is the Vought F7U-3 Cutlass,
seen here in the markings of VF 124 US Navy and modelled in wood by Richard Leask
Ward (xi\\o\.o by John Carter).
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

the fit and appearance, adding extra will become a prerequisite. In some
detail not provided in the kit, then cases a model that spurs your
researching the correct colours and enthusiasm or is an essential part of a
markings of the model chosen. So, collection, might have to be completely
although the plastic kit does take a lot of scratch-built and if you do not want to
the initial hard work out of model mak- try the methods described in a later
ing, it still provides a challenge to those chapter, a complete wooden model
who are prepared to treat it as a set of might provide the answer.
parts that still need a lot of work done to Unless you have some experience of
them. working with the various types of wood
Modellers who take this view will that are most suitable for solid scale
often want to carry out drastic changes modelling, it advisable to obtain sev-
is

to a kit to produce a different variant of eral off-cuts and get the

feel of the mater-
the model provided, or even use parts of ial by carving it to various shapes. Cir-

the plastic kit to produce other aircraft cles, ovals, cones, and triangles are use-
that are unlikely to be featured in man- ful cross-sections to attempt at the
ufacturers' ranges. Quite often it is beginning, and when these have been
necessary to make new components to successfully achieved, take another step
make conversions from plastic kits and by combining one or two different
as wood is one of the most readily avail- shapes on the same block of wood.
able materials it is well-worth spending These early efforts do not require any
some time practising working with it. prior plan other than one formulated in
Although you may not intend to combine your mind, they are simply a method to
wooden and plastic parts, if you want to enable you to get the feel of the material
mould your own components from plas- and the tools before you try an accurate
tic card, a master will be essential, so reproduction of a fuselage or set of
here again the carving of a wooden shape wings.

This Saab A-32A Lansen makes an attractive wooden model of a clean Swedish design.
Model by Richard Leask Ward (photo by John Carter).

26
 — 1 1

WOODEN MODELS

Obechi or close grained pine are ideal Service have a considerable number
woods to use, but balsa, which is more from which to choose and these are
readily available and is much easier to probably the most accurate to be found
work with — in a modelling sense will — anywhere in the world. Other specialist
probably be the choice of most modellers aviation magazines and newspapers pub-
whether or not their intention is to pro- lish plans from time to time, but these
duce a complete model, a mould for plas- are not always to a recognised scale,
tic card, or a component for use with a although in the majority of cases cross-
plastic kit. Balsa can be obtained in a sections and the particular scale to which
variety of sizes at most of the larger they have been drawn is shown. If a plan
hobby shops especially those which of this type is the only one available it
specialise in flying models. It is usually need not mean an end to the project, for
stocked in block as well as sheet form although your skill in enlarging the draw-
and both types have their uses as far as ing to the scale you want might not be
the solid modeller is concerned. For the sufficient to get you a job as a design
initial trial run, a pack of balsa compris- draughtsman, it should be possible, with
ing blocks and sheets can be purchased the aid of instruments that can be found
for a nominal sum and this is more than in most schoolboys' satchels, to provide
adequate for experimentation purposes. a drawing from which you can work.
However, when it comes to the actual The easiest way to do this is to place a
model it is better to be a little more selec- sheet of tracing paper over the plan and
tive and look for wood with fairly close draw a series of squares each side being
grain and a good hard texture. to the scale shown on the plan. If, for
Having decided on the model you wish example, the plan scale shows that every
to construct a set of accurate plans are a V2 inch is equal to 20 feet, draw Vi inch
must. These must contain drawings squares on the tracing paper. On a sepa-
showing the cross-sections of the fusel- rate piece of paper draw a similar grid
age, wings, tailplanes and other compo- but this time use larger squares, say one
nents, as well as outlines of the major inch, but draw the same number as you
assemblies. The Aeromodeller Plans did on the tracing paper, so in this exam-

Scaling up by squaring methoa 1 ^— f

p-r>— 1

tt

7
__„ /

1
^ - \
V.
^ ,^ r^
> -^
-
,

.7
'-^
^
1

s
R "^^ '^
/
^— 2 X
— X ^^ — — — -/ /
lF T =^
= —
— = /^ — /
^B
>
:1

S ""
^ ~?
^ «& ^ — — — ^ Li z —
-— Draw squares over original
' -
T=r
-1= E T —— —— a — then double size of squares
on separate sheet and plot
points square for square

27
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

foot line on the vertical axis and join the

Simple scale chart
zero point where the compass was
inserted, through the bisecting point to
the top of the last vertical line. The result
will be a simple to read table in which the
24' 6"
measurements taken off the diagonal
bisecting line and projected sideways
1:48 give the dimensions of the model in 1:72
scale / scale. The drawing illustrates this
method very much more clearly than it is
16' 4' described, but it is easy to see that a set
of tables such as this can be used to
enlarge or reduce any plan to the size
A you want it. Another method that can be
l:72/'scale used if you doubt your skills at drawing
and have the necessary cash, is to take
2" -
the original drawing to a printer who has
equipment for making printing plates and
ask him to enlarge or reduce them to the
size you want.
Construction is started by transferring
the outline of the fuselage on to the block
of wood you have selected for this com-
1" 2" 3' 4'
ponent. This can be done by either plac-
6' 8' 12' 18' 24'
1:72 scale

Draw shapes on balsa block

pie the tracing paper over the drawing
has five Vi inch squares, while the sepa-
rate sheet has five one inch squares. It is
now a question of transferring the lines of
the aircraft drawing from each Vi inch
square to each one inch square, and you
will then end up with a drawing that is 1

inch = 20 feet, in other words twice the

size of the original. It is not difficult to
make simple but working drawings to
any scale using this technique if the grid
on the drawing you are preparing is
drawn to represent the scale you want
the finished model to be; if it is 1:72 use a
grid in which inch = 6 feet, or in 1:48,
1 1

inch = 4 feet, but you must remember to

relate these squares to the scale shown on
the original drawing which determines the
size of the grid on your tracing overlay.
Another method that can be used is to Cut out basic shape with fretsaw to
draw a scale chart on which the base line arrive at squared profiles
is divided into the scale you know, say 1

inch = 6 feet (1:72), therefore the base

line can be drawn six inches long giving a
scale length of 36 feet. From each of the
one inch markings on the base line draw
a vertical line making sure that each is
exactly parallel to the other. On the first
vertical line place the point of a compass
which has been set at the scale of the Same basic principles apply to
model drawn; if we assume this to be making wooden moulds for vac-form
1:48 scale the compass will be set at two models
inches for eight feet; now bisect the eight

28
 WOODEN MODELS

final shape as possible, select a medium

Use cardboarcT templates to sand grade glass-paper and attach it to a sand-
fuselage to correct profiles ing block, which is nothing more elabo-
rate than a square block of wood, and
carefully continue to shape the fuselage
using this. Continue to make frequent
checks using the templates, gradually
reducing the grade of glass-paper until
you are using a very fme one to get a
smooth finish. Now mark the cockpit
area and attachment points for the wings
ing the block under the plan and using and tailplaiies, then split the block down
carbon paper, or tracing the outhne on to the centre line so that you have two iden-
a piece of cardboard then cutting out a tical halves. The advantage of using two
template which is used to draw the shape blocks bonded together in the initial
on the wood. The block selected for the stages will now be evident, but if you
fuselage can be wide enough to enable have not done this mark the centre line
the width to be drawn right across it or along the length of the fuselage and cut it
an alternative, which is better from sev- in half with a fret or razor saw. The type
eral points of view, is to use two blocks of tools used in the initial carving stages
each half the width required, lightly will depend a great deal on the type of
cemented together. The latter enables wood and size of model. If a hard wood
the fuselage to be split in half along its has been used it will be advantageous to
vertical axis after carving has been com- use sharp wood chisels or proper wood-
pleted thus enabling the cockpit and tail working carving tools, but the expendi-
pipe or intake, in the case of a jet, to be ture on these items is hardly justified
hollowed out very much more easily unless you intend to do a lot of this type
than one block is used.
if of modelling or have them available
Once the side view has been drawn on anyway.
the block, cut out the shape using a fret- The extent that the two fuselage
saw, making sure that the blade is kept halves are hollowed out depends on just
vertical the whole time, the pieces how much detail you want to incorporate
removed are then pinned or lightly in the interior. It is well worth hollowing
cemented back in place and the top view out the cockpit area, for any scale model
of the fuselage is marked. By placing the that does not have at least rudimentary
removed wood back in position it is detail in the cockpit immediately loses
much easier to draw the plan view on to some of its authenticity. When carrying
the block since it is being transferred to a out this work, start by marking the area
perfectly flat surface as was the side to be removed with a ball-point pen then
view. remove it with a modelling knife or
Use the fretsaw again to cut out the gouge, being careful not to 'dig" out the
plan view then remove the pieces of the wood too deeply as it is very easy to
side view that were pinned or glued back penetrate the outer shell of the fuselage.
on to the original block. The result will The example shown in this chapter is
now be a block that has the aircraft's the Vickers Supermarine Swift, and with
fuselage in both plan and side view ready this model the cockpit, jet pipe and
for shaping. Before starting to carve the intakes must be hollowed out. Of these
fuselage shape, trace the templates that three areas the intakes are likely to prove
are keyed to datum points on the fusel- the most troublesome and it is best to
age plane, on to stiff cardboard and care- tackle these by drilling a series of small
fully cut these out. Using a sharp model- holes in the outside area of the intakes
ling knife gradually round-off the sharp before starting to remove wood from the
corners of the block making several inside. If thiswork is done carefully it is
small cuts in preference to a few large not difficult but when it has been com-
ones. Work slowly, constantly checking pleted a bulkhead must be placed inside
the area being carved against the temp- the fuselage to blank the intakes off
lates, and make sure that each side of the otherwise it will be possible to see into
point where the template is placed an empty shell.
matches. When you are satisfied that the As much attention must be given to
carving has taken you as close to the obtaining a smooth finish on the inside of

29
MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

30
WOODEN MODELS

31
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

To ensure correct dihedral sei model o : he correct height

the model as it is to the outside, this to aim for the standard you want.
being achieved by the use of varying Construction of both the wings and
grades of sandpaper which can be wrap- tailplanes depends on the model being
ped around dowelling or a pencil to reach made, in some cases it is best to make
inside curves. A tail pipe from hollow the port and starboard wings as separate
dowel or a suitable sized metal or card it is best to make them as
items, in others
tube should be added, making sure that it one complete unit. As far as the Swift is
is placed equal about the centre line. A concerned the latter is probably the best
cockpit floor from thin ply or plastic line topursue as it is easier to remove the
card, as well as side consols and an area where the wings fit from under the
instrument paneL can also be added fuselage and slot them in. then rebuilding
before the tw o halves are joined together the underline of the fuselage with a piece
again, but it is usually possible to fit the of wood cemented in place and car\ed in
seat after all the work on the fuselage is situ. Wherethe wings are to fit half way
complete. The techniques described in up the fuselage, mark the shape and posi-
later chapters on plastic models and tion of the wing root on the finished
scratch-building for adding this t\pe of fuselage and file a flat area to accept the
detail can be applied equally as well in wings which can be fixed into position
this t> pe of modelling. with small dowel pins. Once the major
Wings, tailplanes and fin/rudders are components have been made it is advis-
now marked on to wood of a suitable able to scribe panel lines and control sur-
thickness in the same way as the fuselage faces on them before the\ are assembled
shape was transferred to the block used together. Do this b\ using a scriber and
for its construction. When doing this steel rule and to ensure that such items
make sure that the grain follows the span as elevators and ailerons are of equal
of the wings and tailplanes and is vertical proportions on each component use a
on the fin/rudder. Templates are used to stiff carboard template to make the initial
obtain the correct aerofoil sections but it impressions.
is not necessary to use two pieces of If balsa wood has been used for the
wood as was done for the fuselage model the best adhesive to use is balsa
except in the case of ver> big models. cement which is quick dr\ ing and gives a
Wheel wells can be marked out and tough joint. If Obechi or another hard
removed quite easily without the need to wood has been used, balsa cement will
split the wings along their lateral axis. In still work but will not give as good a join

the case of the S»ift and most small as a proprietar> wood glue or. better
models, it is usually possible to obtain still. epox\ glue. When glueing the com-

wood wide enou^ to make the wings ponents together make sure that the w ing
firom one piece, but v^here this is not dihederal or anhederal is correct by
possible and two widths are needed. chamfering the w ing or tailplane roots to
make any joins by butt joining along the the correct angle or using ph braces
span and never across the wing chord. inserted into the wings and fuselage. A
When canning out the final shaping of simple jig to ensure that the components
the wing and tailplane aerofoil sections. are held firmly in place while they are
leave the leading and trailing edges setting is simply made by using a flat
slightly thicker than thev will be on the board on which to place the ftiselage
final model, as it is always wise to give with blocks of the correct height
the whole model a final rub down with cemented to it at the point where the
the finest available glass-paper after it wings will rest. In an> form of modelling
has been assembled, and this is the time one of the most important virtues the

32
 WOODEN MODELS

modeller can possess is patience, so once is really no shortage of raw material that
the parts are cfemented together leave can be adapted for use in this and all
them alone for at least 24 hours to give other types of aircraft modelling.
the glue a chance to set really hard As every sub-assembly is made it
before further work is carried out. Dur- should be stored safely in a small box
ing the time the major components are until it is required, and when the work on
setting attention can be given to making making these has been completed atten-
the various sub-assemblies that will be tion can once again be turned to the
needed. major component which by now should
Wheels are likely to present the big- be set really hard. Before carrying out
gest obstacle to the solid modeller as a the final work it is wise to check that all
wood-working lathe is vital if these are to the parts have set in the correct positions
be made accuratel> from the material the and carry out any changes if they have
rest of the model is constructed from. not.
The easiest answer is to "borrow" suitable Once you are satisfied that all is well,
wheels from a plastic kit or hunt among seal the joins with a thin layer of plas-
all
the odds and ends that have been col- tic wood, and during this process use the
lected from old models, discarded same material to add wing fairings and
toys. etc. Wooden dowelling can be blend the fin/rudder assembly into the
obtained from most DIY shops and is main fuselage. In cases where the air-
available in sizes ranging from 1/16 to craft concerned has very big wing root
one inch or more diameter, this makes an fairings, such as those on the Spitfire,
ideal basis for undercarriage legs, wing add these by using suitably shaped
tanks, bombs, underwing stores or even blocks or thin plywood curved into the
engine cowlings. Thin gauge piano wire correct shape. This can be achieved by
which can be purchased at most model cutting the shape from ply then bending
shops is also useful for undercarriage it in steam from a boiling kettle, man-
legs as well as aerials, pitot heads, or ipulating it to the shape that is required
riggingon large scale biplanes. Ordinary whilst it is in the steam, then holding it in
domestic fuse wire has a multitude of this position when it is removed from the
uses ranging from recoil springs on can- steam until it sets. This is not as hard as
nons to brake pipes and aerials, so there it sounds and experimentation with odd

The F-IOOC nearest the camera is another of Dick Ward's fine wooden models in the
markings of the Thunderbirds aerobatic team. The model in the background is an F-IOOD
made by the author from the Frog/Hasegawa kit and finished with Microscale decals.This
is a good example of a solid scale model being made long before the same type of aircraft

became available as an injection-moulded kit (photo by John Carter).

33
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

pieces will soon give you the feel of the with in a later chapter. The only care
technique. that must be taken is with masking, since
When all the fairings and filler has a very low tack masking tape must be
been applied and set, the whole model used as it is very easy to remove filler
should be sanded with a light grade of from the wooden surface.
glass-paper until a very smooth finish is Don't forget to treat all the model's
obtained. Once you are satisfied that the components in the same way as under-
finish is as good as you can possibly carriage doors, weapons, fuel tanks and
make it, the wood grain must be filled. other parts made from wood, require as
This is vital if balsa has been used as if much attention before they are painted
this is not treated in this way it will as does the main structure. All the vari-
absorb any paint which ?s applied to it. ous sub-assemblies can be added after
Grain filler can be bought from model the main structure has been painted and
shops and is used extensively by the fly- had markings applied, but these should
ing model fraternity. However, a suita- of course be painted in appropriate col-
ble alternative which has been used over ours before they are attached to the
the years by solid modellers, is a combi- model.
nation of clear dope — again a substance In this type of modelling it is almost
familiar to makers of flying models — certain that the cockpit canopy will have
and talcum powder. Pour some clear to be moulded. This is done by carving
dope into a tin lid or other suitable recep- the shape in wood then using either a
tacle, which should not be of the plastic vac-form tool as described in the previ-
variety, then add talcum powder until ous chapter or the male/female moulding
you have a fairly stiff but still runny technique discussed in the chapter on
composition. Now paint the whole scratch-building. Once again it might be
model with this, allow it to dry hard then possible to use a canopy from an existing
sand it down with a light grade glass plastic kit if one of the correct size and
paper. Apply another coat and repeat the shape can be found. In the hey-day of
rubbing down process. Repeat this until the wooden kit some companies
the model has a finish that is as smooth specialised in producing canopies for all
and hard as glass through which there is types of models from acetate sheet.
no evidence of grain. The model is now These are now almost impossible to find,
ready for painting which can be done but they are still around as in early 1975 I
with enamel paints as used on plastic located a box containing canopies for the
kits, or coloured dope. The method of Swift, Thunderjet, Cutlass, F-80, Avro
painting wooden models is no different 707A, Meteor 8, Javelin, Sabre and
to that for plastic ones and will be dealt Hunter at the back of a shelf in a large

A solid wooden model of a Supermarine Swift FR 5 of No 2 Squadron RAF. The model

was made using the principles outlined in the text by Dick Ward (photo by John Carter).

34
 WOODEN MODELS

e
o
u

E
u
a
s
en

35
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Swift FR 5 of 2 Squadron RAF Germany flown by Squadron Leader C. S. MacDonald.

This is the aircraft featured in the drawings and shown modelled in wood in the previous
photograph (photo via R. L. Ward).

model shop. So it is always worth taking with re-heat, whilst the final fighter ver-
a closer look at the stock in any shop that sion, the F4, introduced a variable inci-
sells models, for you might also discover dent tailplane. Throughout its short ser-
some long forgotten product that will vice career as an interceptor the Swift
give a quick answer to your particular was dogged by trouble which eventually
needs. led to its withdrawal from use in its
Making wooden models is a very satis- designed role. One claim to fame is that
fying facet of the hobby and is one that on September 25 1953 the F4 prototype
probably leads to more improvisation raised the World Air Speed record to
and sense of achievement than any 737.7 mph in the hands of Vicker's test
other. It is well worth trying at least one pilot Mike Lithgow. Earlier in the same
model as the experience gained will year the aircraft also captured the Lon-
prove useful when you progress to con- don to Paris record in a time of 19
versions and scratch-building in plastic minutes 5 seconds which gave it an aver-
card. The plans for the Supermarine age speed of 669.3 mph.
Swift will enable you to add this interest- Despite its disappointment as an
ing aircraft to your collection by building interceptor, the Swift equipped two
one in wood or using them as a basis for squadrons in Germany, Nos 2 and 79, in
scratch-building in plastic card. the fighter reconnaissance role as the
The Swift was the first swept-wing jet FR5 when it replaced the ageing Meteor
fighter to serve in RAF Fighter Com- FR9.
mand but is less well-known than its The FR5, which is featured in the
famous contemporary, the Hawker drawings, started life as a F4 but was
Hunter. Developed from the Attacker fitted with a lengthened nose in which
and Type 510, it was ordered primarily was accommodated three cameras, as
as a safeguard against failure of the well as increased chord at the tips which
Hawker machine but was issued to only gave it a saw-tooth leading edge. The
one fighter squadron, No 56, who used aircraft's already considerable fuel
the four marks that were manufactured capacity could be increased by the addi-
as interceptors. The Fl was powered by tion of a 220 gallon ventral tank which
a Rolls-Royce Avon RA7 engine, armed extended its radius of action.
with two .30 mm Aden cannons, had no In the tactical reconnaissance role the
re-heat and a fixed tailplane. It was fol- Swift enjoyed much more success than it
lowed by the F2 which featured a had as a interceptor and proved this by
'cranked' leading edge to its wings, and being both the winner and runner-up in
had its armament doubled to four Aden the'l957 NATO reconnaissance compet-
cannons. The F3 was basically an F2 itions, a success it repeated two years

36
 WOODEN MODELS

Two FR 5 XD962 of 2 Squadron RAF Germany at Jever. The squadron

views of Swift
pennant and name can be clearly seen on the port side of the nose (photos by
leader's
Wing Commander C. S. MacDonald, via R. L. Ward).
later when it again won the competition. the plastic kit manufacturers, although
A planned unarmed version to be cal- the American company Hawk, did
led the FR6 never materialised but a release a 1:72 scale model of the F4 some
modified version known as the F7, with years -ago. This model is inaccurate in
a longer fuselageand increased span, many respects but its age must be consi-
was produced in small quantities and dered before condemning it out of hand,
equipped No Guided Weapon
1 and if you feel that you do not want to
Development Squadron at Valley. tackle a wooden Swift, but want an
The Swift remained in service until example in your collection, then the kit
1961 and was unique in that it was the — if you can manage to locate one — can
only re-heat equipped fighter in the RAF be turned into a presentable example.
until the advent of the Javelin F AWT and But before fighting shy of tackling a
8. Although the Swift has been con- wooden model, remember that there is
signed to semi-obscurity by the Hunter, little to be lost if your efforts are a fail-
it will retain a place in the history of the ure, but a lot to be gained if they are not.
RAF and is therefore worthy of consid- So take the plunge and have a go, you
eration for inclusion in collections may well surprise yourself, and the sense
depicting the history of RAF aircraft. At of achievement if you do is one of the
the time of writing it has been ignored by joys of model making.

37
 four

Plastic models
It isnot unrealistic to claim that the plas- upon the newcomers as a form of cheat-
tic kit isprobably the single biggest fac- ing. A cheap way to make models that
tor in the growth of model making during required no skill and was strictly for
the last two and a half decades. Its pre- junior, and had no place within serious
shaped components enable even the modelling circles. But gradually these
least skilled to produce a presentable modellers saw in the plastic kit a means
replica of their favourite full-size sub- to an end whereby the kit could be used
ject, be it aircraft, ship, car or tank. as the provider of raw material from
Naturally, during the war years solid which accurate and acceptable models
scale modelling was a popular pastime could be produced.
and many of today's well-known model- The 1950s can be regarded as the pre-
lers cut their teeth on the wooden kits lude to what was to follow, and from a
that were available during that period. small trickle has grown a flood which has
The return of peace brought a decline as now washed away the doubts that
other activities that had been restricted existed. Those who still have early kits
by wartime economies were revitalised. can readily appreciate the enormous
Manufacturers of solid scale kits found it steps that have been taken, not only in
harder to sell their products and by the
early 1950s only Veron remained as a Examples of the type of detail which can
major producer of this type of kit, but be observed at air shows can be seen in this
they were soon to put up the shutters — and the following photos. This is a close-
as far as solid scale models were con- up of a Westland Wessex helicopter
cerned — and leave the field clear for showing fine detail, stencilling and other
what one can term the new generation material which can be used by the dedicated
of modellers and their plastic kits. enthusiast.
In the USA Hawk, Revell, Aurora
and Lindberg were among the first to use
polystyrene to produce model aircraft
kits, and in 1953 Airfix in England fol-
lowed their first plastic kit, which was a
Massey-Ferguson tractor, with a plastic
kit of the Spitfire. Prior to this Frog had
tried to re-introduce their pre-war Pen-
guin kits which were really the fore-
runner of the plastic kit as we know it.
but they met with little success, although
they were not too long in rejoining the
field with the new materials favoured by
their competitors.
It is doubtful if anyone in those early
days envisaged the extent to which the
production of plastic models was to esca-
late. The feelings that had greeted the
first wooden kits as being a method to
short-cut the carving from square one of
a solid block of wood, were repeated
when plastics first appeared. Modellers
who had initially scorned wooden kits,
but then happily accepted them, looked

38
 PLASTIC MODELS

to get one's perspectives in the right

order so that kits can be looked at in
their true colours. Modellers can be
divided into several categories; at the top
of the tree are those who are experts and
use plastic kits as a means to furthering
their hobby but would be equally at
home with any other medium. There are
then those who will spend many happy
hours building kits, adding improve-
ments and painting them in authentic
colours, as they see in the plastic kit a
means to produce a collection of models
that they might otherwise not be capable
of producing. We then have the person
who makes the kit straight from the box
and is happyto do so. This type of model-
ler will, probably, graduate to the next
Canberra TT18. This type oj detail picture higher level in time, but if he does not,
can be easily obtained at most air displays will still obtain a great deal of enjoyment
with even a modest camera. Particularly from the way he chooses to model. At
noteworthy here is the gap beneath the the bottom end of the scale are the very
tailplane which many modellers would be young who buy a model and a tube of
tempted to fill in on a kit. glue, put the two together as quickly as
possible, use the result as a plaything,
production techniques and overall qual- and within a very short space of time are
ity,but also in the care that is now taken back at the retailers ready to repeat the
in providing authenticity, the number of process.
components, choice of subject matter Although the second and third
and not least of all, assembly instruc- categories are a considerable force and
tions and transfers. Parallel to the the main supporters of the accessory
growth of the plastic kit, there has also manufacturers, it is the latter type of
mushroomed an industry geared to sup- market at which most manufacturers aim
ply the model maker with tools, vast their sights. With this in mind their
ranges of paints, accessories, conversion object is to produce models that have
components, and many alternative appeal to the young, but at the same time
sheets of markings for completed mod- are accurate enough to be bought by the
els. Whereas in the early days the model- more serious collector. This fact must be
ler was virtually on his own when it came kept in mind when kits in general are
to changing a commercial kit to another looked at. The cost of modern injection
version of the basic aircraft, or using moulding equipment, not to mention the
paints that were designed for wooden master tools from which the kit is pro-
models or toys, he is now able to buy duced, runs into many hundreds of
separate parts that, for example, will thousands of pounds, and if the manufac-
enable a kit of a single seat Hunter Fl to turer is to stay in business he must
be converted to a two-seat T7, and recover his costs as well as make a profit
authentic quick drying enamel paints as quickly as possible.
designed specifically for use with plastic Modern tooling techniques enable
kits. even the most complex shapes to be pro-
Despite all these advances and the duced, but there are many occasions
ready availability of paints, markings, when manufacturers take a short cut,
and other accessories, there still remains producing a part that looks correct on
the fundamental skill of the modeller the completed model but is not 100 per
concerned in putting together all the cent as it should be when compared with
available ingredients in turning what is the original prototype. This helps to
basically a toy into a beautiful scale keep costs down and in many cases is of
model. little importance as far as the completed
Many readers will not readily agree model is concerned. After all, the aim is
that present day injection-moulded kits to produce a kit that will sell in many
are toys, but I believe that it is important hundreds of thousands at a reasonable

39
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

price rather than a perfect one that will of just five years ago, but it is very
sell at £10 a time to a few hundred unlikely that the true enthusiast will ever
enthusiasts. be able to buy what he considers to be
The many thousands of kits that are the perfect kit, although he is now much
sold to what is generally known as the more often satisfied than he was during
'schoolboy market" enable the general the early days of the plastic kit. Facts
quality to be kept at a high standard, as such as these must be kept in mind when
willbe quickly appreciated by compari- reading review comments that appear in
son of models available now with those modelling magazines. Unfortunately

Below A useful reference photo of a Saab Viggen showing underwing stores as well as the
unusual camouflage pattern (photo by John Carter). Bottom A T-28 with flaps drooped
and engine cowling panels open. This type of picture is always useful for reference pur-
poses, especially if an unusual colour scheme is wanted (photo by John Carpenter).

d
f'wwwww
'^^^

%1 ^
-'

^KZ
I^IHHI mni
i*
-'

40
 PLASTIC MODELS

A Chipmunk with its engine cowlings open, a modification that could enhance the
Airfix kit of this popular subject (photo by John Carpenter).

some reviewers tend to go well outside from magazines showing the edition
their brief inan attempt to air their know- by date and the page on which the refer-
ledge, with the result that they make ence appears, will enable quick location
comments that most will readily of the point noted at a future date.
appreciate are beyond the economic con- It is as well to start this as soon as

trol of the manufacturer of the particular you decide that the hobby is to be taken
kit concerned. This does not mean that seriously, for if you leave it too long, you
there is any excuse for a kit of an aircraft will be faced with the daunting task of
that is well documented to be produced cataloguing information from a
with glaring errors of shape and overall considerable stack of accumulated back
size, but to condemn a model because issues. Visits to air displays and
the camber on the underside of the museums is time well spent as it is possi-
wings, or the wing-tip washout is not ble to note a considerable amount of use-
present, reflects a total lack of apprecia- ful information both in relation to a par-
tion of what the manufacturer is aiming ticular aircraft as well as generally, in
to do. nothing more elaborate than a pocket
It follows therefore, that even before note book. Of course photographs are
starting to build a standard stock kit, the always useful, and the cost of even a
modeller who takes his hobby seriously small box-type camera will be repaid
should endeavour to carry out some many times over. It is not necessary to
basic research into the subject himself have a super expensive piece of photo-
and decide exactly what his intentions graphic equipment to take useful pic-
are as far as the project on hand at the tures, providing you remember to use
time is concerned. what you have within its capabilities.
The multitude of aviation books and Accurate drawings are essential espe-
magazines now available will enable cially when it comes to improving or
even the most impecunious modeller to converting kits, and those published in
collect some form of reference library magazines such as Scale Modeller, Avia-
related to the subject in which his own tion News, Koku Fan and Scale Models
An inexpensive
particular interest lays. are well worth collecting.
scrap book with pages devoted to indi- Most towns have free public libraries
vidual aircraft, campaigns, aircraft that and invariably these have a reference lib-
fought in campaigns, or aircraft of a simi- rary within the building they are housed
lar type, is probably the cheapest way to in. Sources such as these are too fre-
start a reference library of one's own. If quently overlooked by modellers, but
you subscribe to one or two magazines they can provide books on every pub-
and do not want to damage them by cut- lished subject and the librarian will
ting out pictures or removing pages, an always be pleased to obtain any copies
exercise book with a simple alphabetical that might not be in your particular lib-
index in which is noted important points rary's collection. The usual fee is nor-

41
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Open cockpits and drooped flaps help to add interest to a model and photographs such as
this form a useful guide when it comes to carrying out this type of work (photo by John
Carpenter).

mally the postage required to obtain the

book, and for this modest sum even the Adding internal detail in cockpit
most expensive aviation pubHcations can areas from stretched sprue, micro
be yours for several weeks. In the event strip and plastic card
of you not being allowed to remove the
book from the library, the ever faithful
notebook and pencil is all that you need
to acquire the information you need. A
sheet of tracing paper can be used to
copy drawings published in such works,
but be very careful not to damage the
book in any way. and as a matter of cour-
tesy let the librarian in charge know what
you are doing. To the casual observer it

Stretching sprue by heating in flame from candle

then gently pulling away from centre

42
 PLASTIC MODELS

Interior detail such as this on the Monogram 1:48 scale B-I7G is now commonplace in
modern kits. Butcan still be improved by the fastidious modeller and used as a guide
it

to adding such refinements to older kits which do not include such detailing.

may appear that you are writing on pages needed and at which stage of the con-
when all that you are engaged upon is struction it will be carried out. On a large
tracing details you want, so if you have scale aircraft such as the example quoted
made this point clear from the start, a component that comes out one foot too
embarrassment can be avoided. short will need rectifying as in 1:32 scale
Information you have collected in this will be% inch, but the same error in
respect of the model you are going to a 1:72 scale model will be something less
make should be studied alongside the kit than 3/16 inch. This is still noticeable in
components, always keeping in mind this scale but not so glaring as it is in the
whether or not the aircraft featured in larger model, and harder to rectify. If
the kit is the exact version referred to by you are a perfectionist then you will put
most of your material, and if it is not, the it right despite the fact that you will
changes that have been made. Say for probably be the only one who will know
example you have chosen to model air- you have done so, but if you are realistic
craft of the Luftwaffe and the kit you and prefer to spend a little more time in
have just purchased is the Revell 1:32 general finishing then you will not
scale version of the Messerschmitt Me bother. Once again we return to the
109 'G' variant. As good a starting point point that any form of modelling is
as any is the book by William Green largely a matter of personal choice, and
titled Aircraft of the Third Reich, the only the individual concerned can make
section on aircraft made by Mes- a decision relating to his modelling.
serschmitt will quickly reveal that there Correcting dimensional errors of this
are many variants of the 'G" so ascertain type is not too difficult providing they
which one is claimed to be depicted by are confined to major parts such as the
the kit and compare it with the many fuselage, wings and tailplanes, but they
photographs and drawings that abound can lead to the necessity of carrying out
in this book. Once you have decided if other work, so everything must first be
the kit is generally accurate as far as considered before a decision as to
external detail is concerned it is a simple whether or not to do them is taken.
matter to check the kit dimensions It is comparatively easy to detect any

against those published for the full-size dimensional errors in the wings and fuse-
aircraft. If there are any glaring errors in lage providing comparison is made
this respect, now is the time to decide against accurate scale drawings, but the
how you are going to put them right, and difficulty is deciding exactly where the
start planning in your mind the work error has occurred. If the model meas-

43
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

ures out a scale foot it is not just a matter his attention.

of adding a piece of plastic card to cor- Having decided just how much atten-
rect this, but finding out exactly where tion you are prepared to give to the
the addition must be inserted. Say for model as far as overall appearance is
example the additional foot is added by concerned, further thought must now be
cutting off the tail, inserting a spacer, put towards any interior details that are
then refixing the tail, although the over- to be included, as much of these will
all length will now be correct the length need to be made before the main kit
from the wing trailing edge to the rear of components are put together.
the fuselage might measure out incor- Most of the new additions to existing
rectly. If the Aii-fix 1:72 scale kit of the ranges of plastic kits contain a consider-
Messerschmitt Me 109G-6 is used as a able amount of interior detail, this is
practical example it will be found that especially noticeable on kits in the 1:48,
the model is 3/32 inch too short in fuse- 1:32 and 1:24 scales. But in the smaller
lage length. The error in the kit has scales, notably 1:72. although such detail
occurred just forward of the windscreen is included it is often very rudimentary

so a plastic card spacer has to be inserted and can be improved with little effort.
at this point. This has the effect of The area that will need most work car-
lengthening the nose but it also means ried out on it is the cockpit as nothing
additional changes have to be carried out looks worse than a well made and
at the wing roots as the cuts in the fuse- painted model which, on close examina-
lage will pass right through these. So it tion, has nothing but a simple seat and
immediately becomes evident that a lot plain floor under the canopy.
of work is if this model is to be
needed Photographs and drawings of the
put right. can be argued therefore, that
It interior of aircraft are not hard to find,
in many ways it is best to accept such a and any will serve to give the modeller a
small error rather than attempt to correct basic idea of what an aeroplane's cockpit
it in the wrong place, for after all, if plas- looks like. In cases where parts are pro-
tic card is added near the tail, the length vided in the kit these can be used as a
scales out correctly, but the aircraft will foundation on which to build or patterns
look entirely incorrect as the tail section from which new components can be pro-
will be far too long. Such an error is duced from plastic card.
more easily detectable than the slightly The first step is to add some of the
incorrect and shortened nose which will interior stmcture of the aircraft where it
probably go unnoticed if the model is is not covered by equipment and
built as comes in the kit.
it instrumentation. Stretched sprue is ideal
The same rule applies to the wings, as as a medium for making internal fuselage
insertion of correction pieces ir^ the stringers which should be spaced equally
wrong places can easily change the lead- around the area that can be seen. It is
ing and trailing edge taper resulting in a essential that reference material cover-
model that again might be accurate ing the model being made is consulted as
dimensionally but inaccurate in shape. the structure that is being simulated is
The only way to discover where changes not always the same on every type of
should be made is to compare each part aircraft. In 1:72 scale just the suggestion
against the drawing, gradually eliminat- of internal bracing and frameworks is
ing those that match exactly, then taking sufficient but as the scale gets bigger
a closer look at those that don't. additions such as those mentioned must
This basic research must be carried be as accurate as the rest of the model. It
out before the main construction work is a good idea to study kits that have

starts when there is still time to decide if such interior detail, and two that were
the efforts involved are possible and will released in 1975 provide just the informa-
improve the model. It is wise to keep in tion that is being sought. These are the
mind that there are very few people who 1:48 scale kits of the B17G by Mono-
can look at a completed model and gram and the Tamiya Lancaster 81/111.
immediately detect dimensional inac- Both these models have the interior
curacies, unless of course, these are so structure of the aircraft included in the
glaring that the appearance of the model mouldings and enable a good impression
suffers, in which case it is doubtful if a to b/e obtained of what this should look
serious modeller will even have bothered like if it is being reproduced with
to consider the original kit as worthy of stretched sprue, or plastic strip. Some

44
 PLASTIC MODELS

Plasticine block set in fuselage to obtain internal dimensions for making bulkheads,
cockpit floors, etc

of the internal stringers that run longi- the amount of Plasticine protruding out-
tudinally along the airframe are rec- side the half is wide enough to fit the
tangular in cross section, and this can total depth of the other half, then press
easily be reproduced by cutting strips of this onto the first component making sure
thick plastic card then heat stretching that the join at top and bottom meets.
them in the same way as is done for Use a flat spatula, which need be
sprue. Unlike stretched sprue, which is nothing more elaborate than a thickish
usually circular in cross-section, such piece of plastic card, to push the Plasti-
strips of plastic card will be flat and have cine across the total fuselage width
a rectangular cross-section. It is best to through the cockpit opening, then care-
use liquid cement for fixing parts such as fully separate the two fuselage halves.
these to the interior and the same adhe- You will now be left with a block of
sive should also be used if plastic card Plasticine the top of which gives the
bulkheads are fitted. exact width of the fuselage at the point
One of the major problems that model- where it was inserted, and it is now a
lers seem to encounter when it comes to simple matter to either measure the area
adding floors and instrument panels, is or use it as a template from which to cut
the accurate measuring of the internal a plastic card floor, bulkhead, or what-
dimensions of the fuselage. If the kit ever component you are trying to fabri-
includes a simple floor and panel these cate. The problem of making instrument
can obviously be used as templates, but panels or bulkheads with sides in which
in cases where such parts are not pro- the curves match the exact interior shape
vided it is all too easy to end up with a of the fuselage can be solved in a similar
floor that is not wide enough to meet manner. To do this use a length of soft
both halves when they are joined solder pushed into the interior fuselage
together. The solution is simplicity itself. curvature then trace the resulting shape
Take a block of Plasticine which has on to a piece of plastic card. If the point
been rolled until it is soft, and press it where the solder protrudes outside the
into one fuselage half at the point where fuselage half is marked the same piece
the floor is to be located. Make sure that can be used for both the right and left

45
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

hand sides by simply pressing it into one

side, removing it and drawing round the
shape, then turning it over, lining up the
previously marked point with the equi-
valent point on the part already drawn,
and marking the other half on the plastic
card.
Once the cockpit floor has been cut
out attention can be turned to the side
consols which are built up as three sided
boxes along the sides of the floor so that
they join the interior fuselage when the
cockpit is inserted. When doing this
remember that the pilot's seat has to fit
in the middle and this will dictate just
how detailed the consols can be. This
type of cockpit is confined mainly to
single or two-seat fighter type aircraft
but larger types also have side consols as Make up consoles and seat from sheet
well as a central pedestal containing the plastic. Obtain correct widths from
throttles and engine controls. The degree Plasticine as illustrated
to which such detail can be added
depends on the aircraft being modelled
and how much be seen through the
will
cockpit when complete. Of course,
it is
in aircraft with sliding or hinged
canopies, these can be modelled in the
open positions, so that the extent of the
work you have carried out can be seen.
In the case of the two examples previ-
ously mentioned, the whole interior is
included and can only be improved by m^!*^V^f!iW\^^im^9{l^.y^->}jP(»Jli»>
-

the addition of safety harnesses, wiring

harnesses and looms of electrical wiring.
The B17G has perfectly detailed seats
mounted on structures exactly as the real
aircraft, the central pedestal and side
consols are also provided as are oxygen Microscale, a decal for the instrument
hoses, radio equipment, bomb sight, panel will invariably be included. This
navigator's table and the radio equip- should be fitted to the plastic card panel
ment. In 1:48 scale such immense detail after this has been painted a suitable
can be painted very effectively, and background colour, then treated to a
when completed the crew positions have coat of flat varnish to protect it. Should
an air of true authenticity. With this a decal not be available then the panel
model and the Lancaster, which is simi- will have to be reproduced by an alterna-
larly detailed, a lot of the work carried out tive method. Once again the overall size
is lost forever when the fuselage halves of the model will dictate the best way to
are assembled, but at least you have the do this. One of the simplest methods is
satisfaction of knowing that it is present to paint the panel matt black or light
and what can be seen through the trans- grey, then with a scriber or pin, mark the
parencies will pay testimony to the work instrument outlines and finish by adding
done on it. On 1:72 scale models a com- switches and warning lights in coloured
promise has to be aimed for, since it is paint. A more effective panel can be
very easy to overdo the detailing with made by using two shapes cut from plas-
the result that the cockpit will look clut- tic card, one is painted matt black and
tered and unconvincing. the other has holes drilled in it to repre-
If the model you are making is the sub- sent the instruments, this being painted
ject of one of the sets of markings avail- the colour required which will invariably
able on specialist transfer sheets, such as be matt black, dark or light grey. The
those produced by Modeldecal and two are sandwiched together and glued

46
 PLASTIC MODELS

with an epoxy resin, and finished by

adding a drop of clear varnish into the
holes. If the panel is large enough the
matt black interior showing through the
drilled holes can be scribed with marks
to represent scales and needles before
the gloss varnish is dropped in.
Side consols usually consist of remov-
able panels containing switches, lights
and instruments, so these should be
treated in a similar way if size allows, or
simply marked with thin white lines
scribed through the painted surface or
carefully drawn with a mapping pen and
white ink. Throttles, propeller pitch lev-
ers, control columns, flap and under- Typical instrument panel detail, in this
carriage selector levers can all be made case of a Scottish A viation Bulldog Tl of
from stretched sprue or thin plastic rod the RAFwith no navigation radios (photo
with grips and knobs reproduced by courtesy Scottish Aviation via Paul Beaver).
using a blob of PVA glue which is then
painted. Electrical wiring looms carrying
power to the instruments and other photographs. Information can
aircraft or

cockpit equipment can often be seen dis- be obtained from the least expected
appearing behind instrument panels, sources, coloured advertisements for
bulkheads and consols. Very thin RAF aircrew and apprentice recruiting
stretched sprue painted red, yellow and will often yield useful details as will
green then bunched together and many a film or television programme, so
cemented into position will reproduce always be on the lookout whatever you
such looms most effectively. It is not are reading or watching.
possible to lay down any hard and fast One of the most neglected compo-
rules concerning such detail as this var-
nents in commercial kits is the pilot's
ies from aircraft to aircraft, so the only
seat. Most kits have now progressed
past the stage of a simple 'L" shaped
way to find out what a typical cockpit is
piece of plastic to something that looks
like is to take every opportunity that pre-
sents itself to examine either full size
more like an aircraft's seat, but there is
still a long way to go which leaves the

field wide open for the detail enthusiast.

Instrument panel from sheets of In large scale kits these components are
plastic card often lacking in the detail that is included
in other similar parts, but as the scale of
Paint ^\ Drill holes the model increases so too does the
matt black standard of seat provided.
Perhaps the most noticeable omission
in any scale is the complete absence of a
realistic safety harness. Some kits
include this vital component moulded
into the seat back and pan, but this is a
far from satisfactory method and is best
removed by carving it away with a mod-
elling knife and restoring the seat finish
with wet and dry paper. The basic seat
should be improved before a replace-
ment harness is fitted and this is easily
Paint panel colour done by either completely scratch-
for aircraft building a new one on 1:72 scale models,
concerned to adding sides, arm rests, adjustment
levers, armoured head rests and the like
Mark instruments with needle then
on larger scales. In some 1:72 scale
fillholes with gloss varnish to represent
models the seat provided can be greatly
glass
improved by carrying out similar work

47
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

on the kit component and this especially

appHes in the case of ejector seats. This
type of seat is a most complex piece of
equipment and has much more ancillary
equipment attached to it than the con-
ventional bucket seat. One important
part that must be added isthe handle
used to actuate the ejection gun. On the
British built Martin-Baker seat this usu-
ally appears as a yellow and black
striped handle above the pilot's head and
duplicated between his legs. Fuse wire
inserted into small holes, held in place
with epoxy glue and painted is the best
way to reproduce these firing handles,
and the same material can be used for the
hoses and leads that are to be seen A finely painted ejector seat with additional
around such seats. Research is impor- detailadded for the Revell 1:32 scale
tant as the ejector seat has been Mirage kit. Model by A Taylor.
.

developed over a number of years and

latest models look very different from
those fitted to early jets. The firing into a replica rather than just a sugges-
handle mentioned does not appear in the tion of a seat, the safety harness can be
form described on the latest seats such added. On 1:24 scale models this can be
as those used on the Harrier, and made from material such as thin linen
American seats are a lot different in which is first cut to the lengths required
design to British ones. So this is yet then soaked in polystyrene cement.
another area where individual research is Buckles and adjusting clips are made
essential as space is just not available from fuse wire and fitted in the correct
here to go into the intricacies of every positions after the linen has been painted
type of ejector seat. in the appropriate colour. This will vary
When you are happy that the detail from aircraft to aircraft and period to
you have added to the seat has turned it period. The Sutton harness fitted to most

Firing handle.

American-design ejector seat fitted to

Corsair A7E/A7D.

Martin Baker Mklll seat as fitted to

Hunter.

48
 '

PLASTIC MODELS

World War 2 British aircraft was a tan

colour, whilst those fitted to American
machines were often olive drab or black.
On modern aircraft the harness is usually
black or very dark grey, with various
shades of green also being thrown in for
good measure. On smaller aircraft thin
strips of masking tape or cartridge paper
painted and marked with Indian ink for
the stitching, and silver paint for buck-
Extra detail in the form of a map on the les, will be adequate. Try to get a natural
navigator's table can add a further look by arranging the straps in a careless
dimension of interest. In this case the map manner as though the pilot has un-
came from a small pocket diary, but it buckled the harness and allowed it to fall
would be. a simple matter to paint such a back into the seat as he vacated it. If the
map on a small piece of paper. canopy is open it is a good idea to allow
the shoulder straps to hang over the
cockpit sill. If you are one of those
modellers who likes to include the pilot
figure in the completed cockpit, it goes
without saying that the straps must be
long enough to pass over his shoulders
and legs and join around the area of his
midriff.
The amount of detail added to the
cockpit is governed not only by the scale
of the model concerned but also the gen-
eral overall appearance. A cockpit that is
over-detailed and looks cluttered is as
bad as one that has no detail added to it.
There is no way to describe just how far
it is prudent to go but after a few
attempts it becomes surprisingly easy to

Blank off intakes, tail pipes,

etc, with plastic card discs to
prevent a 'straight through
look

49
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

achieve the right amount of authenticity, added are the correct width and height
so the answer is to practice and experi- and will not need major attention when it
ment until you are satisfied. Other comes to final assembly.
can be seen should not
interior detail that It isnot only the crew's working areas
be neglected since a model with a super that need detail attention for there are
detailed cockpit but having simple many other parts that will benefit from
'holes* under the gun turrets would look similar attention. A very good example
quite ridiculous. In this respect scale is of such areas are wheel wells. Recent
very much a limiting factor, but a look at trends in kits have been towards adding
the Monogram BI7 or the Tamiya Lan- etched detail within wheel wells which
caster will show just what should be can look very authentic if it is treated
aimed for. The B17 has a tremendous properly. But there are many older kits
amount of interior detail within the nose which the serious modeller will want to
section, with such items as the bomb- make, in which the wheel well is nothing
sight, navigator's table, and machine- more elaborate than a shaped hole in the
gun butts being readily visible through wing or fuselage undersuiface.
the clear nose transparency. The addi- Try a dry assembly run first to find out
tion of oxygen hoses, ammunition belts, if it is possible to look straight through

or even a map together with instruments the wells into adjacent components or,
on the navigator's table, will all add to worse still, right through into the cockpit
the scene the sort of authenticity one or daylight through the opposite half. If
would see if a real BI7 could be this is possible the first essential is to
examined at close quarters. Copying of provide the well with a 'wall' all round
such detail for smaller scale models will its periphery. This is done by using strips
enhance their appearance just as much of plastic card, or the same material to
and a good exercise is to build the Airfix make a recessed bulkhead, in some cases
or Revell BI7 in 1:72 scale adding both will be necessary. Where the air-
scratch-built components based on those craft concerned has a tricycle or nose
supplied in the larger kit. When carrying wheel type undercarriage a simple box
out the addition of such interior detail it made from plastic card can be manu-
is easy to be carried away, and the fact factured in a few moments and inserted
that two fuselage halves eventually have into the area where the wheel retracts. A
to be put together must not be over- pattern for this can be obtained from the
looked, so before every step make sure Airfix Phantom or Hasegawa P2V-7
that any floors or bulkheads that are Neptune, both of which have such a part

One of the basic errors. This Frog Buccaneer has a completely hollow fuselage which
allows daylight to be seen right through it. The inside should have been filled with card-
board or plastic blanking pieces (photo by John Carter).

50
 PLASTIC MODELS

The under surfaces of the Revel! 1:32 scale Mirage showing additional detail in the wheel
wells and air brake areas plus filler in all Join lines. Model by A Taylor. .

included in the kit. and prepared all the scratch-built parts

Having blocked off the existing wells that are to be included inside the fuselage
or made completely new interiors, wiring and wings, the basic kit components can
harnesses, hydraulic lines, reservoirs be put together. Some of the items men-
and the hundred and one other bits and tioned will not be added until the basic
pieces that are to be found in full-sized structure has been completed, so it is as
aircraft's wheel wells can be added. well before even making any sort of start
Detailed study of as many aircraft as on a new model, to study every part and
possible is the best way of finding out formulate a plan o^ how you propose to
what one would expect to find within tackle the additional dci^il that you wish
these areas, so every opportunity should to add. By doing this it is most unlikely
be taken to examine aircraft at air dis- that you will end up having forgotten to
plays and in museums. Photographs will tackle a part that you had every intention
also provide some information so do not of adding, then finding that it is impos-
confine your reading to just the 'meat' of sible to do so.
aviation magazines but also study adver- However experienced you are, time
tisements for it is here where a great deal spent in reading the assembly instruc-
can be learned. The same sort of atten- tions and familiarising yourself with all
tion can also be given to the insides of the components, is time well spent. The
dive brakes, and other control surfaces. complexity of modern kits is such that it
In many kits these components are pro- is vital to put together some parts in the

vided as separate items and it is often order specified by the manufacturer,

tempting to cement them in the closed there is always a reason behind the sug-
positions. But if you look at photographs gested assembly sequence and it is disas-
of aircraft on the ground, you will see trous and disappointing to get halfway
that in very few cases are all the separate through a model only to find that a vital
pieces provided in a kit, always in the component has been omitted and there is
closed positions. now no way of inserting it. In many
Once you have made the interior detail cases the instructions are over-simplified

51
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Masking tape or Sellotape

holds parts firmly together
while glue sets

as they are written to cater for modellers together. Under no circumstances

of all ages, there are also steps described attempt to wipe this seepage off the outer
in which parts are added without thought surfaces, simply ignore it, tape the two
given to how they will be painted, as halves together with masking or Sello-
generally speaking the object is to get the tape, and leave them well alone until the
model put together before final painting cement goes hard. There are some mod-
is carried out. Experience will show that ellers who deliberately allow cement to
small parts such as aerials, guns, pitot oveiflow along joint lines as they argue
heads, underwing weapons and the like, that this will be removed when the joint
are best left until after assembly of the is sanded smooth and in any case gives a

major components, irrespective of the stronger adhesion between the compo-

sequence laid down by the person who nents. Personally I do not go along with
wrote the kit instructions. Most model- this philosophy, but would be the last to
lers will soon find an order of work' that say that it is wrong. If you find that this
suits them and learn to adapt it to any or another method suits you and gives
situation, study of the parts and instruc- satisfactory results then by all means
tions will help to formulate such adapta- carry on using it. Any cement that man-
situation. Study of the parts and instruc- ages to get itself on to surfaces well away
arisen. from join lines, must be allowed to set
The subject of basic kit assembly has hard and then be removed with a sharp
been dealt with so many times in other knife and the surface restored with care-
books that there is little point in repeat- ful use of wet and dry paper. Always
ing it again in detail, but it is always wise make sure that the tube of cement you
to reconsider the major points even if are using is provided with an adequate
they only serve as reminders. seal in the nozzle, a type of dress-making
Polystyrene cement is a solvent and pin or mapping pin with a 'beaded' head
should be used with this fact very much is ideal as it will effectively stop any

in mind, it should not be allowed to get cement leaking from the nozzle. Make
on to outer surfaces of the kit, but if it sure that the sealing pin is always
does it must not be regarded as a major replaced after each application as it is so
catastrophe. On large components such easy to forget this, put the tube on the
as the fuselage halves of the B17 or 1:24 work bench, then accidentally lean on it
scale Harrier, cement must be applied and squeeze cement on to the work sur-
quickly to the areas that are to be joined face When this happens it always seems
and this will invariably result in some inevitable that a kit component is under-
seepage when the two parts are put neath the tube and becomes covered in

52
 PLASTIC MODELS

cement, or a part is put down on the nose of a large scale airliner, and found
resulting puddle of cement. Excess to his horror that the combination had
amounts of polystyrene cement resulting caved in the complete fuselage where the
from such accidents often cause damage weights were located. The fact that he
that it is impossible to correct, so it is was bold enough to relate his error indi-
wise to be safe instead of sorry. The cates just how easy it is for even the
destructive qualities of polystyrene most experienced to make an elementary
cement must also be considered when it mistake. The best method of locating
comes to using it for cementing canopies weights is the use of Plasticine, which
in position or weights within the nose to also adds to the weight, or a glue such as
keep the nose wheel on the ground. It is PVA white glue or Uhu. The same
very easy to insert lead weights then sur- adhesives can be used for trans-
round them with cement only to find parencies, but more about this later.
that, (a) it will not stick the weights to Liquid cement, of which the most
the plastic and (b) the volume used has effective is marketed under the brand
pulled in the fuselage leaving a large name Mek-Pak, is not nearly as destruc-
'dent' on the outer skin. Some time ago tive as the tube variety, but it is still a
an accomplished modeller related in a solvent and must be treated with respect.
magazine article how he had used this This type of cement is ideal for use with
type of cement together with a commer- vac-form models and smaller parts on
cial body putty to hold weights in the injection-moulded kits. It is best applied

|^
Scrape joints with sharp modelling knife
to level plastic then finish with progres-
sively lighter grades of wet and dry paper

53
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

with a small brush and the technique is to

put the two parts you are joining together
then apply the cement with the brush to
the area that is to be joined. On fuselage
and wing joints the parts should be taped
together and the cement allowed to run
along the line by capillary action, the
areas where the tape prevents ingress of
the cement being attended to after the
tape has been removed. Liquid cement
tends to dry very much more quickly
than tube cement and it is therefore
imperative that work is carried out
quickly if it is used in joining major com-
ponents. In many respects it is best to
use tube cement on kits for the major An Airfix kit of the Gladiator. This kit
parts and confine the liquid variety to the was one of the first released by this
addition of small parts such as aerials, company and is extremely crude by modern
pitot heads, undercarriage doors and standards. This model was improved by
similar components. removing all moulded fuselage detail then
Wing and tailplane parts are cemented rescribing it; deleting the poor kit engine
together in exactly the same way as the and replacing it with one from a Blenheim
fuselage halves with the components kit. The cockpit is fully detailed and the
being held under pressure by tape or pilot's entry hatch opened. Model by
ordinary domestic spring pegs adapted Chuck King.
for the purpose. Before cementing these
parts together check the thickness of the off a certain amount of plastic and in so
trailing edges as these are often over doing reduce any irregularities between
scale as a result of moulding limitations. the parts that have been joined. Tackle
Should this be the case, reduce the this work carefully and make sure that at
thickness by sanding the insiilc edges no time is the knife used in a cutting
with wet and dry by pinning a sheet of action or the blade is allowed to 'dig" into
this type of abrasive paper to a flat sur- the plastic. One of the interesting prop-
face and rubbing the kit part across it, erties of the plastic used in model kits is
making sure that the total area that is that it tends to change colour as it is
being reduced is kept in constant touch shaved, as both parts are reduced to a
with the wet and dry paper. During this common level a distinct line will appear
operation make constant checks to and when this happens, the knife/scraper
ensure that too much is not removed, will have completed its task. Now turn
and try to treat each mating component to a fairly fine grade of wet and dry paper
to the same amount of attention, this will and use it to sand the area on which you
ensure that the thinner trailing edge is have been working. As the surface
symmetrical on both surfaces. Similar becomes smooth change to a finer grade
attention must also be paid to the of paper and use it in conjunction with a
fin/rudder, and if this is moulded as an lot of water to add the final finish. When
integral part of one or both fuselage satisfied that the seam line has disap-
halves, this must be done before the two peared restore the surface by polishing
fuselage halves are joined together. with metal polish. The best for this is the
Once all the major parts are joined liquid type which is most effective if it is
together and the cement has set hard, first poured on to a soft cloth and allowed
work can start on removing any excess to stand for several hours. This will
cement and all signs of seams where allow the liquid to evaporate leaving the
joins have been made. There are many cloth impregnated with a very mild abra-
ways that this can be done but the one 1 sivepowder, this is applied to the model
prefer the use of a modelling knife in
is then polished off with a very soft clean
which the blade has become too blunt for cloth.
cutting duty, but is still sharp enough for All the operations described will have
use as a scraper. Make sure that the part remQved some of the surface detail
being treated is held firmly and scrape around the areas that have been worked
the knife along the seam, this will shave on.Such detail must now be replaced by

54
 PLASTIC MODELS

re-scribing panel lines unless you decide detailyou can see, then view a model of
to remove all such detail from the whole the same subject at a distance of one
model. There are no hard and fast rules yard and compare the two. This simple
about such detail but it is a subject that quickly indicate what should
little test will
can lead to much controversy. Whether and should not be included. However,
or not scribed or raised panel lines and once again the question of personal pre-
rivets add to the overall authenticity of a ference will provide the answer, and
model depends a great deal on the scale only the modeller concerned can decide
involved, and the aircraft being con- what is right for him.
structed. Before finally committing the main
Most aircraft are flush riveted so the assemblies to the application of cement it
tendency among manufacturers to adorn is important to put the components
almost every part with impressions of together in what isknown as a dry run,
rivets is quite wrong, and it is best to which will immediately show if all the
remove such protrusions. In recent locating tongues and slots are clear from
years some kits have appeared with flash or unwanted protrusions, or need
riveting being represented by very small attention from a modelling knife or wet
holes, this is an attempt to represent and dry paper so that they fit perfectly.
countersunk rivets and is certainly much If there are any areas where parts do not
better than the raised variety, but on mate together properly find out what is
modern aircraft where this method is preventing them from doing so, then cor-
used, the centre of the pop-rivet is filled rect this and try another dry run until
so that the surface is completely flush. It you are satisfied that the fit is as good as
is very difficult to remove this type of you can make it. Now
is the time to
rivet representation or to fill every one, apply cement to the slots and tongues of
so in kits of this type it is probably better the wings, tailplanes and fuselage parts.
to accept the surfaces as they are, since Do this carefully and try not to use too
they will not be nearly so objectionable much as again seepage might occur and
to the eye as the raised type. this can be troublesome if it gets on to
in two
Panel lines are also represented adjacent surfaces. Before the wings and
main ways; one by a raised line, the tailplanes set. make sure that they are
other by a scribed or etched line. Of the aligned correctly when the model is
two the scribed line is much the better if viewed from both the front and rear, pay-
it has been produced correctly. It must ing particular attention to any dihederal
be remembered that these lines are or anhedral that might be present. Leave
meant to represent removable panels or the model at least overnight in a place
joints in the aircraft's skin, they will where it is safe from accidental knocks
therefore be flush to each other and not as once the parts have fused together it is
create a raised ridge where they meet, by difficult to take them apart if the align-
the same token there will also not be ment has moved. Whilst the major
large gaps. So if such panels are to be assembly is setting other components
reduced in scale so too must the area such as wheels, long-range tanks, rock-
where they meet, with the rsult that a ets, and similar underwing stores can be
very finely scribed indentation will be assembled. It is important to give as
much more realistic than a ridge. In view much attention to these components as it
of this I feel that best to remove all
it is is to the rest of the model, as a fuselage
raised detail and lightly re-scribe it if the centre-line tank in which the join line is
model is large enough. On some kits this not clean, or rocket with overscale fins,
type of surface detail is represented by will mar the final appearance of the com-
very deeply engraved lines, which if pleted model.
enlarged to full-size, would be equivalent Moulding limitations usually result in
to miniature canals, in such cases the such components as wheel doors being
only answer is to use filler to fill such far too thick, those provided in the kit
detail to the same level as the rest of the can be used as templates from which to
surrounding area. The whole question of make thinner ones from plastic card, and
surface detail can be resolved by a sim- jobs like this can be undertaken during
ple exercise on the next occasion that any odd moments that become available
you visit a museum or air display. Try whilst major parts cannot be worked on.
standing about 72 yards away from an When the main part of the model has
aircraft and note just how much surface been assembled and allowed to dry any

55
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

gaps that are present where wings and come the problem of masking such com-
tailplanes fit should be filled with body ponents why not go the whole way and
putty. The best tool tor this job is a den- add all similar parts before thoughts are
tal probe with a flat end but adequate turned to the paintbrush?
substitutes are a small screwdriver or the Remove the cockpit cover from its
spade-shaped tool from a manicure set sprue and wash it in lukewarm water to
whose normal function is to push down which a dash of washing-up detergent
cuticles. Squeeze a small portion of filler has been added. Try it for fit on the
on to a clean piece of cardboard then fuselage and if there are any points
insert it into the gap with the probe, where it does not seat correctly remove
gradually working it along the length of whatever is causing the problem by gen-
the area that is being attended to. Try to tle application of wet and dry paper.
get the surface as smooth as possible as Always look for irregularities on the air-
this saves a lot of time during the sanding craft rather than the canopy but where
operation that follows. Before going they are on the latter do not be afraid to
ahead and filling all wing root and tail- remove them in the same way. It often
plane gaps study photographs to make helps to bevel the inside edge of the
sure that the aircraft concerned does not canopy where it is to join the fuselage by
have landing flaps that create a small gap using the point of a very sharp modelling
between their edges and the fuselage, or knife in the same shaving action that was
an all flying tailplane. The latter is usu- used on join lines. Once you are satisfied
ally called a variable incident tailplane with the fit of the canopy polish the
and this means that the whole tailplane inside with an abrasive paste; powdered
can be moved in relation to the centre toothpaste is ideal for this but the impreg-
datum line of the aircraft, so there will be
the smallest of gaps forward and aft of The machine-gun on this Revell 1:28 scale
the point where it hinges to the fuselage Fokker Dr 1 was made by drilling stretched
or fm/rudder. Points such as this must be sprue. The removable cowling enables the
carefully watched as they all help to fine detailing of the engine to be viewed.
create an air of accuracy when the model Model by Paul Roeder (photo Kunze).
has been completed and is placed on dis-
play. During these filling operations do
not neglect any small indentations on the
main surfaces of the kit that may be pre-
sent as a result of a sink in the mould or
where cement has been inadvertently
placed and removed in the preliminary
cleaning up.
The model has now reached the stage
where thought must be given to the addi-
tion of the transparencies. Some model-
lers prefer to omit these until after the
painting stage but the danger in doing
this is that there is little that can be done
if they do not fit as accurately as they
should. Obviously they can be placed in
position and tested before painting is
carried out, and if their fit is poor modi-
fied accordingly, but these components
are often most delicate and it is best to
limit handling of them as much as possi-
ble. In view of this my own preference is
to canopies and windows before paint-
fit

ing and then carefully mask them whilst

this work is carried out. The assembly of
some kits will dictate this action anyway,
as in most bomber aircraft turrets and
fuselage transparencies will have already
been inserted within the fuselage halves
during assembly, so if you have over-

56
 PLASTIC MODELS

A Frog Phantom with all the heavy rivet detail sanded off and wing leading edge slats
extended. The trailing edge control surfaces have also been cut out of the moulded wing
and replaced in the lowered position.

nated cloth described earlier will do just inside. The result, if thework has been
as well. Tackle this job thoroughly as done correctly, will be a crystal clear
once the canopy is cemented in position transparency through which it is possible

and the outside has received similar to see the interior detail you have
all
treatment, it will not be possible to cor- added. The final step is to paint the
rect any blemishes that you missed, and canopy with a clear gloss varnish which
these will prove an eyesore. will add to the lustre as well as protect it
Cement the canopy in position using from any further scratching. This atten-
epoxy glue or PVA white glue and allow tion to transparencies can be a somewhat
this to set hard before you attempt any irksome task but the end result is well
further work. If the aircraft concerned is worth all the effort that has been
a fighter that has a sliding rear half to its expended.
canopy it is not necessary to merge this With all seams and gaps filled, the
into the main structure with filler, but if major parts assembled, and the canopies
it is a bomber such as the Lancaster, in position the model is now ready for
Halifax, Marauder or any other aircraft painting, but before this major operation
where crew entry is through hatches or is started there is one more job to do.
removable cockpit sections, it is neces- During the original moulding a mild
sary to ensure that the cockpit glazing form of grease will have been applied to
looks as though it is part of the main ease removal from the master mould,
structure and not added on as an after- and also, during the work you have car-
thought. ried out, a certain amount of natural oils
Fill any gaps with body putty then from the body will have been transferred
with a 600 grade wet and dry paper, used to the structure. It is now necessary to
dry, sand this until the join between the remove traces of this otherwise it can
all
glazing and the fuselage appears as one. affect the final paint finish. After lightly
Turn to a lighter grade of paper and con- sanding the whole model with a fine
tinue sanding without worrying about grade of wet and dry paper, wash all sur-
any scratches that you might be inflicting faces with a lukewarm mixture of water
on the transparent part. Once you are and washing-up liquid, dry the model
satisfied that the cockpit has been made thoroughly and only handle it in future
to look as though it is an integral part of with a tissue handkerchief between your
the structure, use the finest grade of wet fingers and the plastic surface.
and dry that you can get, and with plenty At this stage the model will begin to
of water — to carry away the abrasive look as though it is practically complete,
dust — continue the treatment. but painting is an art in its own right, and
Finish the canopy by wiping it dry if it is done properly there will still be as
with a soft cloth, then polish it with the much work to be done as you have
same abrasive paste that was used on the already carried out.

57
 five

Painting and airbrushing

Patience is one of the biggest assets any will last avery long time.
modeller can possess, and nowhere is When you have purchased the brushes
this more important than when it comes wash them in warm water which will
to the final stages which involve painting remove any loose hairs that might have
and finishing any type of model. Once escaped the manufacturer's quality con-
the model has reached the stage where trol department, then smooth the bristles
the main construction has been com- into a fine point and store them vertically
pleted, it begins to look like the original in a jam jar or piece of wood in which
on which it is based, and the temptation you have drilled holes, to dry. good A
to rush ahead is always present. Such quality number 6 brush can be smoothed
impetuosity must be curbed, as rushed into a delicate point that in the hands of
or careless work with the paintbrush can an expert will be as capable of painting a
spoil all the careful work that has been fine line as the smallest 000 brush. But
carried out. Poor finishing will always this comes with practice so until this skill
mar a well-made model, and similarly, a level isachieved, the use of the three
model on which the constioiction has sizes mentioned is recommended. After
been rushed will not be improved by each painting session clean the brushes
painting however well this may be car- with turps or white spirit to remove the
ried out. paint, then wash them in a brush clean-
It isimportant that the best equipment ing fluid, and finally use soap and water
available is used and there is nothing to to remove all traces of the cleaning fluids
be gained —except maybe frustration — used. When this has been done, once
by making do with inferior brushes and again smooth the bristles into a fine point
paint. Having spent money on good qual- and store the brush in a vertical position.
ity tools a similar investment must be Never simply swill the brush around
made on paintbrushes, after all these are cleaner of doubtful age, dry it on a rag,
also tools, and are just as vital to good then throw it into a box. This is the
modelmaking as are quality modelling easiest way of shortening its life, and
knives, files and razor saws. Sable negates the money spent.
brushes, which can be bought in art To complement the brushes it is
shops, are very expensive but this expen- necessary to use good quality paint and
diture must be viewed in the correct nowadays this is available in many
perspective. Cheap brushes in which the ranges at a wide range of prices. Plastic
bristles are constantly coming out will models should always be painted with
need frequent replacing, so over a com- enamel type paints and it is this type that
paratively short space of time the expen- is marketed in a bewildering number of
diture on them will equal, or exceed, the varieties, most of which have the model-
initial purchase price of a good quality ler specifically in mind. Lacquer and
equivalent. The number and size of 'dope' —
as used by those who make
brushes will depend on the type of mod- flying models —
can be used on plastic
elling and scale that you adopt as your kits //the surface is first prepared with a
standard, but generally three will be suitable undercoat, but if painted direct
enough. These should comprise a very on to the surface they will attack it and
small size such as 00 for fine detail work; cause it to crinkle all over. How-
a number 2 or 3 medium size for small ever, such pamts can be used on wooden
areas and a larger size such as a number scale models, and for certain subjects do
6 or 7 for large areas. Three brushes of produce a very good solid finish.
this type are likely to cost something like Water soluble paints are becoming
£3 or £4 but if looked after properly they popular in modelling circles as is evi-

58
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

denced by the increasing ranges that are Masking of parts to which you do not
being introduced by manufacturers of wish paint to be applied is carried out at
this type. They are easy to use. give a various stages during the painting of the
good finish, and present very few prob- model. The first of these is prior to the
lems with thinning or paintbrush clean- application of the undercoat or primer,
ing, both of which are carried out with and is carried out on surfaces that have
water. After a period of time most fol- already been painted during assembly
lowers of the hobby will find the type and any transparencies that have been
that suits them best and stick to this fitted. During the assembly of the model
through thick and thin. It is a good idea pieces such as the undercarriage legs
to approach the subject with a com- should be painted while they are still
pletely open mind and try all types of attached to the plastic runners, if they
paint either on completed models, or are fitted into the fuselage or engine
discarded pieces of models, until you nacelles during the final assembly opera-
find the one that you like using and tion they must be protected before the
which gives you the best results. final finish is applied to the aircraft. In
Long before you reach the painting brush painting it is fairly easy to avoid
and finishing stage you should have these components by dexterous use of
already decided on the scheme in which the paintbrush, but any forgetfulness or
you intend to complete the model con- slip will put paint of a colour that is not
cerned. In many cases this will, in fact, wanted on them, so it is best to mask
have been the very first thing that was them completely then painting can be
decided when the model was started, and carried out without any further thought
the mental picture of how you wanted it being given to such accidents. Similarly,
to turn out was formed in your mind. windows, gun turrets, and cockpit
With this knowledge foremost in mind, canopies must also be protected as it is
the colours required obtained, it might not easy to remove unwanted paint from
seem that the next logical step is to dip these components.
the brush into the pot and make a start. Masking tape which is produced solely
But before this there is a vital and neces- for this purpose is by far the best mater-
sary step that will only enhance the final ial to use. it is usually a light brown in
paintwork. This is the preparation of the colour, and is thicker than sticky tape
model by applying a neutral colour which is often transparent and designed
undercoat, which will serve several pur- for holding paper together or repairing
poses. The most important of these is tears in documents. Proper masking tape
that it will immediately show up any has a much lower adhesive level than
blemishes that were missed during the transparent tape and will not cause any
final cleaning up operations, and allow damage to the surfaces it is used on. In
further work to be carried out with wet some cases even masking tape has too
and dry or glass paper. It will also show high a sticky factor for modelling but this
if the grease mentioned in the last chap- can be reduced by rubbing its adhesive
ter has been cleaned off properly, for if side between the fingers before it is
the undercoat goes patchy or streaky, it applied. Another advantage it has over
is a good indication that the model was the more familiar transparent tape is that
not washed as thoroughly as it should it is far more maleable and will follow
have been. The undercoat will also act as complicated shapes much better. There
a sealer in areas where body putty has is one form of transparent masking tape

been used, as this material has a habit of marketed under the trade name of Frisk
absorbing paint and giving a different tape, and this should not be confused
texture between it and adjacent parts. with the other variety which is generally

Finally it gives a key to the top coats and referred to as Sellotape. This in itself is
enriches their colours. Matt white or quite wrong as Sellotape is purely the
light grey are the best colours to use for trade name for a variety of tapes and the
undercoating which should be applied in company concerned also make a
as thin a coat as possible, the best specialised masking tape for painting.
method being the application of two or But to use the name Sellotape will clear
three coats with a gentle sanding opera- any doubts in the readers' mind as this is
tion between each. But even before the the general term by which transparent
undercoat can be applied attention must tapes are known. Frisk masking is sold
be given to masking. in rolls of various widths and is used in

59
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

art Studios, it has an extremely low not scratched when attempts are made to
'tack' quality and is ideal for use in mod- remove it, attach a very fine strip of
elling, it is attached to a backing sheet ordinary masking tape or paper to the
and one of its big advantages —
apart cockpit and paint the fluid over this,
from its low 'tack quality —
is that very leaving one end exposed. To remove the
complex patterns and shapes can be fluid all that is necessary is a gentle pull
drawn on the backing sheet before this is on the exposed end.
cut out and removed. This tape is ideal The method I have found best as far as
for masking such items as undercarriage masking windows and certain canopies is
legs and to do this simply cut a strip the concerned is as follows. Cut very thin
exact length of the leg and wrap it around strips of masking tape by first attaching a
so that it sticks to itself, forming a trous- length to a metal surface, a tin lid is
ered protecting shield over the oleo. ideal, then cut this into strips about Vs
For cockpit canopies a form of mask- inch wide with a sharp knife against a steel
ing fluid such as Maskol or Micromask rule. Peel off a strip and use it to outline
is ideal. This is painted on to the surfaces the window or lower edge of the canopy
and sets into a solid skin which is simply making sure that it does not wander on to
peeled off when painting has been com- adjacent surfaces. Cut off any surplus
pleted. To ensure that the surfaces are and with the pointed end of a modelling

Strips of masking tape

Window

Paint masking
fluid (Maskol)
in centre over
masking strips

Paint Sellotape then cut

into strips to line canopy

Freehand painting offraming. Support wrist on table edge

60
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

knife or scriber, very carefully push the undercoat to set really hard, and a period
tape into any 'corners and the edges of at least 24 hours should be allowed for
where the transparency meets the plastic this.
surrounding area. Once this has been The secret of obtaining a good finish is
done, the window will appear to have a to use good quality paint that is stirred
fine masking tape frame. Now attach well and applied as thinly as possible.
another small strip to the centre of the Start by selecting the lightest colour
window, leaving the end free, and com- unless there are any bands or areas of
plete the task by painting masking fluid darker colour on the particular model
over the parts of the transparency that being made. If we assume that the model
are still exposed, making sure that it also is of a Luftwaffe fighter with a yellow

covers the edges of the masking tape. By nose and yellow and red defence of the
doing this masking fluid is prevented Reich identifying bands on its tail, the
from drying on to areas surrounding the following procedure could be used. Paint
window or canopy and thus stops the the nose and fuselage where the bands
annoying situation of finding, when the are to appear yellow without any regard
fiuid is removed, that it has also masked as to the final demarcation lines of this
small irregular areas around the transpa- colour. When the yellow paint has dried
rency. Masking fiuid can, of course, be mask it completely, making sure that the
used to protect undercarriage legs, gun demarcation lines are straight and all
barrels or even the insides of wheel areas that are to stay yellow are well
wells, but this invariably leads to prob- covered. The width of the tail band is
lems when it is removed as it does dry scaled off the drawing or reference mat-
very hard and has a habit of getting into erial you are using, and a strip of mask-
even the smallest crevices from which it ing tape cut to this, is wrapped around
is very hard to remove without causing the area that is already yellow. Now
damage. paint the red over the tape extending it to
If the model you are making does not cover the area that will be a red band.
have any internal windows or turrets and Leave the red to dry then cut another
you choose to leave the fitting of the strip of masking tape to the total width of
canopy until after painting has been the red/yellow/red band and apply this
done, it is still necessary to mask the making sure that all the edges are firmly
exposed cockpit area during the time the pressed on to the plastic surface. The
model is having paint applied. Do this by light blue undersurfaces can now be
using a tissue which should be soaked in applied followed by the two tone green
water and squeezed dry, then torn into or grey top surfaces. When all painting is
small pieces which can easily be pushed complete the tape is removed and the
into the hole over which the canopy will result will be, if the work has been done
fit. The same method is also used for properly, a perfectly defined yellow nose
wheel wells and any other holes such as cowling as well as neat, accurate tail
radiators, jet intakes and exhausts. So bands. This technique can be applied to
before applying the undercoat the areas any colour scheme, it is just a question of
that should be masked are: any canopies working out first how you propose to
or holes that will be covered by them if tackle the job at hand, the order in which
they are not fitted, wheel wells, the colours will be applied and accurate
radiators, jet pipes, jet intakes and any masking. As with everything there are
other areas that will allow the undercoat exceptions to every rule, so in some
to get into the internal structure of the cases it will be better to apply darker
model. colours first. A good example of this is if
The undercoat paint, which should the aircraft has large areas of black such
always be matt, must now be mixed well as anti-dazzle panels or wing walks. In
and the whole model painted with it such cases paint the black first, mask it
using a number 5 or 6 brush in smooth to the shapes needed, then apply the
even strokes which should be in the overall finish colour.
same direction. When
the paint has dried Every model will require a different
any blemishes that are still apparent approach when it comes to painting, in
must receive attention and a further coat some cases it is wise to paint compo-
of paint applied if necessary. The model nents separately before they are assem-
is now ready for its final finish but before bled but this can only be done if the fit of
rushing into this it is best to leave the the parts in the kit is accurate and no

61
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

This 1:48 scale Monogram B-17G was built straight from the kit but has been finished
to depicta weathered aircraft as it appeared after 52 missions. Weathering has been done
with care and can be achieved most convincingly on larger scale models. Some might
think that this Fortress is overdone, but it was weathered as per photographic evidence
supplied from the United States. It should also be noted that the markings have been
weathered, an important point to remember when doing this type of work (photo by
John Carter).

filling is needed. The Harrier is a painting is carried out, then you might
machine that can present problems .when well find yourself faced with a tremend-
it comes to painting the fuselage under ous masking job that leads to frustration
the wing joins, so it is best to make sure and disappointment. On the other hand
the wings are an accurate fit, then paint you might well solve it very quickly and
their under surfaces and the fuselage thus achieve that tremendous feeling of
before before they are attached. The F-8 self satisfaction that it is very hard to
Crusader by Fujimi is designed in
kit describe. The only advice that can be
such a way that the wings slot into the given is to try all methods until you find
top of the fuselage, so with this mode! it the one that suits you then stick to it.
is particularly easy to paint the whole The secret of success in brush paint-
airframe before the wings are attached ing is make sure that the paints are
to
without having any worries about gaps mixed well, are of a thin consistency,
or join lines. Biplanes present their own applied with a clean brush on to a clean
peculiar problems to modellers in many surface. Before even thinking about
ways, not the least of which is painting. applying the colours to the model the
There is really no other way as far as this paint must be thoroughly mixed and this
type of model is concerned than to omit can take some time if it is done properly.
the top wings until the final stages, which A new tin of paint should be thoroughly
enables the top surfaces of the bottom shaken before the lid is removed as this
wings and the undersurfaces of the top does help to start the mixing process. A
wings to be painted with ease. thin flat stick shaped like a canoe paddle
To every problem there is a solution if then makes an ideal implement for stir-
you care to look for it; if you want to ring and it takes only a few minutes to
assemble any model completely before cut one from an odd scrap of balsa or

62
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

A weathered Me JWD in a winter scheme. The cockpit has been opened to show a fully
detailed interior and exhaust stains have been lightly applied over the wing top surfaces.
It is important that this type of work is not overdone or the whole effect can easily be
spoiled. Model is a combination of Frog and Monogram in 1:72 scale.

plastic card. Under no circumstances piano wire to an electric motor of the type
use a paintbrush to stir the paint and also that are sometimes included in AFV kits,
avoid disused paintbrush handles as they and connecting the motor leads to a bat-
are entirely the wrong shape and, if they tery. Such types of mixer must be used
have been sealed with a varnish, there is with caution as they rotate at consider-
a distinct possibility of this gradually able speed so it is best to stir the paint
flaking off and getting into the tin you are with a stick first, then pour some into a
stirring. separate container to reduce the level in
Most enamel paints will be found to the tin, before the electric mixer is used.
have a thick sediment at the bottom of If this is not done the centrifugal force
the tin and this must be stirred into the generated by the mixer will quickly throw
liquid if the true colour and paint thick- the paint out of the tin causing a terrible
ness is to result. Once the stirring stick mess. Always insert the mixer well into
has reduced this sediment into liquid the the paint before switching it on, and turn
stirring process can be speeded up by an it off before removing it from the paint.

electric mixer. It is possible to buy for a Once the paint has been stirred and
modest sum a small battery powered used, replace the lid as firmly as possi-
mixer used in making cocktails, these ble, first wiping off any paint that has
usually have a variety of different shaped collected around the lid rim, this will
ends which can be inserted into a simple provide an air tight seal and help to pro-
chuck and such a gadget is ideal for long the life of the remaining paint.
obtaining a good paint mix. Mixers of It is a good idea to occasionally go
this type can often be found in junk through all your collection of paints, stir
shops or at jumble sales, in fact the one I them, reseal them, then stack them back
use was acquired in this way for 25p! in their container upside down. Jobs
Should you not be able to locate one. it such as this can be done when suitable
is a simple matter to make a suitable pauses occur during model making and
equivalent by fixing a piece of shaped they pay dividends as they keep the paint

63
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

in a fluid state and make them last much that was painted only minutes before the
longer. Nothing is more frustrating when firstcoat will already have started to dry
it comes to selecting a colour than to find and the new paint will tend to pull this
that because the lid was not sealed prop- resulting in brush marks and an uneven
erly, or the paint has not been used for surface. Use the paint as thinly as possi-
some has gone
time, it solid and is ble and leave each coat to set hard before
beyond recovery. the next is applied. Although paint
The procedure outlined applies seems to dry quickly it does take some
equally to water based paints as it does time to set hard and it is essential that it
to enamels as these have similar proper- reaches this state before additional coats
ties as far as their consistency and fluid- are painted over it. This is where pati-
ity isconcerned. ence plays a most important part in
The
addition of a few drops of thinner model making, as the temptation to test
often helps when it comes to mixing old surfaces to see if they are ready for the
paint and the most economical way of next colour or coat is very hard to resist.
buying this is to use White Spirit which To be absolutely sure it is best to leave a
can be bought at most chain stores or painted model for at least 24 hours
DIY shops in large cans for a fraction of before attempting any further work; this
the price a similar quantity of enamel might seem to be time consuming but the
thinners costs. end results will more than pay for itself
It will often be found necessary to mix in the quality of finish achieved.
paints to obtain a specific colour or to As modelling is a very individual pas-
lighten or darken existing colours to time, the various methods used to obtain
obtain special effects. This is done by the variety of finishes that are needed on
first thoroughly stirring all the paints aircraft are quite considerable. When it
concerned then taking a brush full from comes to a camouflage scheme there are
each tin making sure that the brush is many ways of obtaining the desired
cleaned between each colour, and drop- results. If a standard World War 2
ping the brush load into a mixing pot. scheme for RAF aircraft comprising
Blend the colours with a clean brush Dark Earth and Dark Green is consi-
adding more of each one as required with dered there are those who recommend
another brush, until the correct colour is that each coloured section is painted
achieved. It is possible to buy from art only over the surfaces to which it is
shops proper mixing pots but ideal sub- applied. There is another school of
stitutes are the plastic covers that can be thought which recommends painting the
found on aerosol containers containing lighter colour, in this case Earth, over
anything from shaving cream to the whole of the top surfaces, then
deodorants. These plastic pots come in lightly marking the Green areas in pencil
many sizes and it does not take very long before applying this colour. Of the two I
to accumulate a good quantity, they can personally find that the second method is
be used not only for mixing but also to the best apart from the marking in pencil
contain thinners for diluting, brush which I feel is not necessary. I prefer to
cleaning and the 101 other tasks that paint the Earth first then paint the Green
occur during model making. If they are in the disruptive pattern without the aid
cleaned after each painting or modelling of any pencilled guide lines, simply using
session they will last for a very long a normal number 6 brush with a fine
time. point to first mark the demarcation line
Most readers will be familiar with then carrying on from there.
normal brush work so there is little point Whilst on the subject of camouflage
in repeating this in detail. But it is as well patterns one must remember that these
to mention the major aspects that must are usually painted to a definite plan that
be kept in mind if a good finish is to be was laid down by the authorities of the
achieved. It goes without saying that the air force or Government to which the
most important requirement is a clean original aircraft belonged. They are not
brush which should be kept full during just a variety of disruptive shapes
painting. Always apply paint in one painted at the whim of the person
direction and try not to overpaint areas detailed to paint the aircraft concerned.
that have already been covered. Most Reference material on such schemes is
paints now used in model making dry plehtiful and should be studied in detail
very quickly so if you do go over an area before a model that requires a camou-

64
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

flage finish is constructed, some of the lar scheme or aircraft must be painted in,
more readily available material is listed but quite another when it comes to the
m the appendix at the rear of this book. front line availability of such colours.
It is also worth remembering that col- The effects of service use and exposure
ours used were and are specified and to weather should also be considered but
related to British or Federal standard matters such as this will be discussed
paint numbers. But what is often over- later in this chapter.
looked by modellers is that these One of the hardest tasks confronting
specified colours can vary, and this is modellers is the painting of straight lines,
especially true of wartime aircraft. It is especially those that are needed on
one matter to state what colour a particu- cockpit framing. The method described
during masking can be used successfully
when it comes to painting such items as
fuselage cheat lines, invasion markings,
or leading edge de-icing boots or identifi-
cation colours. All that is necessary is to
paint the colour required over the area
where it is to appear then cover this with
strips of masking tape cut accurately to
the widths and shapes needed. But
cockpit framing presents different prob-
lems. On large scale aircraft such as the
Lancaster and B17 it is possible to cut
small sections of masking tape and cover
the whole canopy in the areas where
framing does not appear. This can also
be done on some 1:72 scale models, but
it is an onerous task that can take a very

long time and the slightest slip in cutting

The most simple airbrush available, a the masking tape or not pressing it down
Badger Model 200. This is fine as an intro- hard enough will stick out like a sore
duction to airbrushing but is limited to thumb when it is removed. Alternative
overall one-colour finishes as there is no methods are the use of a fine brush used
adjustment on the paint and air nozzle freehand, which is not as difficult as it at
(photo courtesy Morris & Ingram). first sounds, or thin strips painted on to a

Simplified drawing of major components of airbrush

Handle

Control button for air/paint mix

Needle

Paint cup

A ir supply connection

A ir seal
Venturi through which paint /air mix flows as needle is retracted

Nozzle

65
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

decal sheet then cut out with a steel rule applied carefully, there is no reason why
and modelling knife. If the freehand any model should not turn out perfectly,
method is used it is essential to have the but in recent years more and more mod-
paint as thin as possible, keep the brush ellers have turned to the airbrush as a
full and finely pointed, and follow the means of obtaining a really smooth and
etched lines that are on most canopies. authentic finish. Some of them have mas-
The model must be supported firmly on tered it but others have quickly become
the work surface and not held in the disillusioned. There is no mystery about
hand, the reason for this is that how- this invaluable piece of equipment but
ever hard you try there will always be there is no easy way to master it and
some movement by the hand holding the despite what some may have been led to
model, if the hand wielding the paint- believe it will only be as good as the per-
brush also moves then the chances of son using it. The airbrush is not a pass-
error in making the line that is being port to competition winning models, it
painted straight are doubled. By support- will not improve a poorly made model
ing the model on blocks to keep it in the nor will it turn a mediocre modeller into
right position and using masking tape to an expert overnight. But if used properly
hold it steady, the chances of success it will certainly enable much more
will be greatly increased. Use the edge of authentic finishes to be applied, will
the painting surface as a support for the widen the scope of finishes that can be
wrist holding the paintbrush, breathe
evenly, and apply the paint in steady ver- Below This Is a venturi-fed Badger 100
tical or horizontal strokes, trying not to airbrush with a rather cumbersome paint
complete too much of each frame line jar behind the nozzle. This is a versatile
each time the brush is applied. Work to a beginner's airbrush and is capable of fine
pre-arranged plan, for example on the lining work if used carefully (photo
Lancaster paint all the vertical frames on courtesy Morris & Ingram). Bottom A
one side, then the horizontal frame, turn Badger lOOXF. This is a versatile airbrush
the model round and do the same the with a side-mounted paint cup, available in
other side, then complete the top fram- two sizes. The air and paint nozzles can be
ing. If the paintbrush should wander out- adjusted to obtain a very fine spray (photo
side the frame line, do not attempt to courtesy Morris & Ingram).
compensate by making the line wider as
this will only result in multiplying the
error as you progress; leave the area out-
side the frame line to dry. then with a
pointed cocktail stick soaked in thinners,
gently remove the unwanted paint. This
method requires some practice but a
fairly high skill level can be achieved if
you concentrate and do not rush.
The other way is to paint the colour
you want the framing on to a sheet of
white transfer, cut strips into the correct
•««^
sizes then apply them as you would nor-
mal water slide transfers. Transparent
tape can also be used in this way but it
does add a thickness to the canopy fram-
ing and is prone to coming adrift after the
model has been completed and dis-
played. Letraset coloured lines, and Let-
ratape as well as a very thin material cal-
led Chartpak can also be used for fram-
ing but they can rarely be obtained in the
correct colours; where they are particu-
larly useful is on models of modern jet
fighters where the canopy sealing is
often in white or yellow.
Providing adequate care is taken of
paintbrushes, the paint is mixed well and

66
^
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

A Badger 160GKF. This is a gravity-fed airbrush similar to the DeVilbiss model also
illustrated.The paint cup is permanently mounted to the top of the 'brush. Air and paint
flow are controlled by the single-action push button which can be seen behind the paint
cup (photo courtesy Morris & Ingram).

obtained, and will also add a completely being imported by Morris and Ingram
new dimension to modelling. (London) Ltd who have been in the paint
From the start it is well to remember spraying business for many years. In
that a good airbrush is a precision made America there are brushes made by
piece of equipment, it is therefore a Paasche and Binks as well as Badger.
costly item and should be treated as Although all these makes perform basi-
such. Basically it is no more than a very cally the same functions there is a
fine spray gun operated by compresssed marked difference in the design
air; it usually has an adjustable nozzle as parameters used, with good and bad
well as a finger-tip air control, both of points — —
as there are with most things
which enable most delicate work to be in all of them.
carried out. Since it reproduces in mini- As my experience has been confined
ature the exact way in which full-size to only the Aerograph DeVilbiss and
aircraft are painted it is carrying scale Badger models, apart from a very short
finishes to the ultimate. session with a Paasche which worked
For many years American modellers admirably, my comments must be con-
considered the airbrush to be an essen- fined to these two manufacturers.
fial part of their equipment and had a The main difference between them is
very wide range of types made by a vari- that the Aerograph DeVilbiss models
ety of manufacturers from which to have the paint reservoir on the top and
choose. It is only during the last five are gravity fed, whilst the Badgers use a
years that British modellers have had the venturi to suck the paint from its carrier
same variety of choice as prior to the into the spray nozzle.
introduction of some of the American- The most economical model produced
manufactured airbrushes, those avail- by Badger is the 250 which in the truest
able in England where extremely expen- sense of the word is not really an air-
sive and confined to use in art studios and brush at all. When compared with other
professional model makers. models the 250 can be considered as no
The two most popular and well-known more than a small spray gun but it must
models currently readily available in not be dismissed as a toy, for although it
England are those manufactured by the has its shortcomings, it does enable good
Aerograph DeVilbiss Company of Eng- one-colour finishes to be achieved and
land and Badger of America, the latter allows the younger modeller to 'cut his

67
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

teeth' before progressing to more expen- both the air and paint fiow are controlled
sive and sophisticated products. The 250 by a single push style lever on top of the
consists of a paint container and a very brush. Push the lever down to allow air
simple air control; it does not have an to fiow, and pull it back to regulate the
adjustable nozzle and the amount of needle that controls the amount of paint
paint being sprayed cannot therefore be being sprayed. The Badger 200 has two
controlled as it can with the more expen- controls, a button on the top to release
sive brushes. It is a step beyond using air and a threaded nut on the end of the
aerosol paint sprays since it is possible to handle to adjust the needle, this means
mix the paint used to the colour and con- that with this model one really must set
sistency required. But it must be stres- the width of the spray before commenc-
sed that it cannot be used to obtain very ing work. With practice the needle can
fine lines or gradual blending of colours be adjusted whilst spraying is being car-
that are essential on some finishes. ried out but this has to be done with great
One fact that must not be overlooked care. The Badger model lOOXF is very
on any account is that the airbrush is a similar in design to the Aerograph
precision instrument and as such is DeVilbiss as it has both the air and paint
costly to produce, and must be well controls incorporated in one lever. The
looked after if it is to maintain peak per- main difference between the 200 and
formance. The engineering of the Aero- lOOXF, apart from the mentioned paint
graph DeVilbiss is absolutely first class control, is that the 200 carries its paint
and their quality can be appreciated as supply in a glass jar underneath the
soon as one is removed from its box. Of brush, whereas the lOOXF has a paint
course such quality must be paid for, cup attached to the side. In some opera-
hence this manufacturer's products are tions the jar of the 200 can be trouble-
more expensive than their Badger coun- some as it tends to restrict the areas into
terparts, but once one has been pur- which the brush can be inserted, but
chased it should, if taken care of, give similarly the lOOXF and Aerograph
many years ofexcellent service. DeVilbiss — which has the paint con-
The major difference between the tainer on the top — have to be used with
Aerograph DeVilbiss and the Badger the angle of the container in mind as it is
Model 200 series is that in the former easy to get carried away and tip the paint

A DeVilbiss Super 63 airbrush. This picture clearly shows the large capacity paint cup
of this gravity-fed airbrush, which is a unit of the highest quality and superb for modelling.
The 'test sheet' in the foreground illustrates the fine control which can be achieved with
this type of 'brush, the range varying from small dots through wide to very fine lines
(photo by John Carter).

68
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

The most commonly used propellant is

the aerosol container which can be con-
nected direct to the brush via a special
adaptor —supplied as part of the basic
Badger kits and available as an extra
from Aerograph DeVilbiss — or through
a similar adaptor fitted with a pressure
regulator. Aerosol cans are relatively
expensive and can lose their power dur-
mg prolonged spraying, they also tend to
expire at the most inconvenient times
without any prior warning. Since air
must be sprayed through the instrument
during the cleaning operation the can
must also be used for this, and it is non-
productive as far as painting is con-
cerned. There is no doubt that a proper
electric compressor is the most effective
form of propellant but since these are
expensive, many will cope quite happily
with aerosol cans. But before dismissing
A Badger 160GXF with air hose attached the electric compressor as an expensive
and held ready for spraying. The forefinger luxury basic economics must be consi-
presses the button to release air and is then dered, for there can be little doubt that if
drawn back towards the handle to allow a lot of modelling is undertaken the sav-
paint into the air stream. This 'brush must ing of the £30- £40 necessary to purchase
be handled with care when in use as it is a compressor is sound common sense;
easy to tip the paint out of the paint cup after this amount is approximately
all,
(photo courtesy Morris & Ingram). what be required to purchase 35 cans
will
of propellant and if each can sprays an
out. The lOOXF paint cup is available in average of four models, it does not take a
two sizes, 1/16 and oz capacity, and
1/8 mathematical genius to work out that a
simply pushes into a hole in the side of compressor which will last for a lifetime
the instrument. This makes cleaning isa wise investment. As an alternative to
very easy and also enables different col- the electric compressor there is available
ours to be interchanged quickly by using a foot operated compressor. This con-
two or three different cups that are sists of an air reservoir which is
already primed with the colours that are replenished by a car type foot pump
to be used. attached to it. The reservoir is fitted with
In operation the lOOXF, 200 and a pressure gauge and safety nozzle and
Aerograph DeVilbiss Super 63 models all that is required is some leg work to fill
are all very similar but a lot of practice is the tank up to the required pressure and
needed before they will produce the type keep it replenished as the air is used. The
of finish most modellers admire, and foot operated compressor is less expen-
which is usually the main reason why an sive than the electric type and is cer-
airbrush is purchased in the first place. tainly more economical than aerosol
So before any attempt is made to finish a cans, it has the added benefit of keeping
model with airbrush painting it is wise to one's leg muscles in first-class condition!
get to know the feel of the instrument, A final solution is the use of a spare
the paint mixes required and how differ- tyre for which a special adaptor enabling
ent effects can be achieved, and there is the airbrush to be connected to it is
no better way of doing this than by trying available. The adaptor fits on to the tyre
the brush on odd scraps of plastic or valve and gives an inexpensive supply of
even pieces of old models. But before compressed air. This is really the same
doing this another very important aspect principle as the foot-operated compres-
must be considered; this is the form of sor as a foot pump is required to
motive power. Every airbrush requires replenish the tyre as the pressure falls
some form of compressed air to force the off. The tyre, which is only acting as a
paint through the spraying nozzle and reservoir, must be attached to a wheel,
this is available in a variety of forms. so there are of course problems unless

69
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

one has a room or shed exclusively

devoted to modelling activities. Most
wives, mothers and girl friends, are usu-
ally prepared to tolerate most things
connected with modelling, but when it
comes to introducing the spare wheel off
the family car into the house, such toler-
ance is likely to be stretched to the limit.
Whatever form of motive power or
airbrushis finally selected the work pro-
duced will only be as good as the
operator using it can produce, and this in
turn will be reflected in the condition in
which the equipment is maintained. Air-
brushing is not easy and there is little
point in adding to one's problems by neg-
lecting the instrument; it must be kept in
tip-top condition as this is one of the
secrets of getting good results.
After each colour is sprayed, always
clean the brush by spraying thinners
through it and at the end of a painting
session repeat this more thoroughly than
ever and end by spraying Polyclens to
remove the last vestiges of paint, fol-
lowed by a further application of thin-
ners to remove the Polyclens.
Never take the airbrush to pieces
unless you are absolutely sure of what Top The ideal form of air supply for air-
you are doing. Remember that it is a pre- brushes is an electric compressor. This is
cision made piece of equipment and simply plugged into a mains electric supply,
great skill has gone into making it. If the the brush connected to its airline by the
needle is removed do this very carefully adaptor seen on the right, and air is
making sure that the tip is not damaged 'on tap'. The device in the centre of the
in any way, and never, never attempt to picture is a water trap which fits between
clean the nozzle by poking any form of the airbrush and compressor and traps
wire through it. Any damage to the tip compressed water before it can get into the
will almost certainly mean the purchase air line and spoil the paint being sprayed
of a replacement, and in some cases, (photo courtesy Morris & Ingram). Above
such as the Aerograph DeVilbiss model, Two sizes of propellant for the Badger
this also means a new nozzle as the range of airbrushes. These propellant cans
needle and nozzle are sold as a matched are a convenient way of obtaining motive
set. Cotton wool ear buds, pipe cleaners power for an airbrush but are expensive if
and tissues are the best cleaning mediums a lot of spraying is to be carried out (photo
and even these must be used with care as courtesy Morris & Ingram).
the slightest piece of cotton wool or tis-
sue entering the brush can cause endless washing of it in detergent as outlined ear-
problems when it is next used. liermust be done thoroughly and it can-
Having become familiar with the not be stressed enough that patience and
operation and maintenance of the work in this respect will be rewarded
instrument thought can now be given to when it comes to spraying.
using it to spray a model, but before Once satisfied that the model has been
doing this the basic finish of the model completed to the best of your ability and
must be carefully looked at. the colour scheme chosen is available in
The airbrush produces such a fine suitable reference form, attention can be
finish that even the slightest blemish or turned to preparing the airbrush for use.
imperfection in the application of filler or Make sure that all the paints needed are
general inattention to the model's con- available, as well as having a ready sup-
struction will become very apparent. ply 'of thinners, tissues, pipe cleaners
The cleaning-up of the model and the and cotton wool earbuds, not forgetting

70
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

some clean mixing pots, and perhaps a colour has been mixed successfully the
most important of all a good quality knack will soon be learned and retained.
eye-dropper. It isabsolutely vital that the paint is
When an airbrush has been standing stirred thoroughly, as any small par-
without use, condensation can form ticles will soon block the brush resulting
inside the air venturi, although some in the need for extensive cleaning opera-
models can be fitted with a water trap; it tions before work can proceed. The
is wise to connect the brush to its air instrument must be cleaned between
supply and blow it out before attempting each colour as already described and it is
to mix paint in the colour cup or jar. in this operation that use is made of the
Having tried the brush and made sure ear buds, tissues and pipe cleaners.
that everything is to hand, decide on the During spraying keep the brush mov-
first colour to be applied. Generally ing evenly across the surface and try to
speaking, it is wise to attempt a very keep it the same distance from the sur-
simple scheme first before proceeding to face the whole time. If the brush you are
more complicated finishes, and with this using has an adjustable nozzle, set this to
in mind a useful rule is to apply lighter your requirements first but remember
colours first. Assuming that an RAF that the spray from it will be in a cone
fighter of World War 2 is chosen, apply shape, so the closer the instrument is
the undersurface blue, light grey or Sky, held to the model the finer the spray will
followed by the Dark Earth and Dark be. Once the air is on and the brush is
Green. The paint should be mixed in the spraying it must be kept in constant
colour cup or jar by putting some in with motion, hesitation in strokes will pro-
a No 6 brush, then gradually adding duce uneven coverage or worse still, big
thinners with the eye dropper until the blobs of paint where the spray is too
correct consistency is achieved. If the concentrated. A rule that most airbrush
paint is too thick it will not pass through users follow is, 'air on first and off last".
the nozzle when air is applied, and if it is When sufficient skill has been
too thin it will tend to run and not cover. acquired in simple finishes, considera-
As paints vary in their make-up it is not tion can be given to more complicated
possible to state any hard and fast per- schemes and one that comes readily to
centages of thinners to paint, but a gen- mind and is always eye-catching, if done
eral guide is that if the colour cup is correctly, is the Luftwaffe mottle style
slightly tilted and then returned to the camouflage. The easiest way to describe
vertical position, the paint remaining on this is to take a model through every
the side will have kept its colour and not stage. Let us assume that you are making
appear transparent. Experimentation a model of the Bf 109G of Jg 2 illustrated
and practice is the only answer but once in Profile 184.

The old enemies in model form. A Bf 109E and Spitfire II, both in 1:72 scale. Both
models have been airbrushed and finished with Let rase t rub-down type transfers.

71
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

First Spray the rudder and nose red; camouflage colours to be reproduced
when this isdry mask the areas that are with ease, but make sure that the model
to stay red with masking tape. When this being made did in fact have such a finish,
has been done, clean the brush and mix if it did not then use masking tape to

some Hellblau. spray the undersides and achieve a sharp demarcation. The whole
fuselage sides with this colour, then question of feathered edges is one that is
change to Dunklegrun and spray the top discussed and viewed by modellers in
surfaces of the wings and tailplanes. different ways. One argument is that on
Using the same colour, tnst run a line small models such feathering will be well
along the spine of the fuselage and out of scale, as on full size machines this
gradually merge this into the blue sides. will only be something like an overlap of
The mottle is achieved by short sharp two inches. So a full size aircraft viewed
bursts on the brush with the spray set from a distance where it represents 1:72
fine, varying the distance away from the scale, will appear to have sharp demar-
fuselage to achieve the subtle differences cation lines even though they are in fact
that are apparent in the mottle. Now feathered. My own thoughts on this are
mask the splinter camouflage on the that if a fine feathered edge can be
wings and tailplanes, using masking tape reproduced, even though it may be out of
to obtain the sharp edges this pattern scale, it does give the model a more
had, and spray the exposed areas with authentic look and should be done.
Schwarzgrun; intermingle this with the Feathering does require a certain degree
fuselage mottle, making sure that it is ot skill and a brush that can be adjusted
darker at the top of the fuselage but at to a fine line, the technique being to use
the same time ensuring that the Dunkel- the brush to 'draw" the edges of the pat-
grun is not completely covered. Now tern first then fill these with it set to a
return to the Hellblau and touch up any wider spray or moved further away from
areas where undesirable overspray has the surface. As the scale of the model
occurred, at the same time merging this increases so too does the scale effect of
colour into the two greens on the fuse- the feathered edge, but it must still be
lage. Finally paint the spinner white, the done with care and the same fine line
ongmal undercoat should be sufficient used. It is possible to cut re-usable
here if it has covered well, remove the masks from thin paper for all camouflage
masking tape, add any parts that have so patterns, which does ensure that every
farbeen omitted and the model is ready model in a collection of the same period
for application of the transfers. has identical camouflage patterns, but I
During all spraying operations try to find such masks more trouble than they
keep in mind any parts that you have left are worth and much prefer to use the air-
attached to the kit sprues which need to brush freehand.
be painted in the colour you are using at Although the airbrush is as happy
the time. A good example of this in the spraying matt as it is gloss paint, it is
model just described are the under- better to use matt throughout as this
carriage doors, which should be sprayed dries quicker and is therefore not likely
Hellblau whilst this colour was in the to pick up any dust particles or be inad-
brush. Failure to do this then instead of vertently marked before it is dr\ If the
.

setting up the airbrush again and using a original aircraft had a gloss finish this
paintbrush instead, can mar all the work can easily be achieved by spraying the
that has already been carried out. Touch- whole model with gloss varnish which
ing up an airbrush finish with a can be used in an airbrush equally as well
paintbrush is never very satisfactory as it as paint.
is not possible to obtain the same smooth Water based paints such as Polly S or
finish, so work of this type should be Pelikan Plaka are ideal for airbrush use
avoided wherever possible, but if this is but the initial surface of the model must
not so, then confine it to edges of wheel first be sprayed with matt varnish or

wells, trailing edges of wings, etc, but white enamel paint to give the water col-
never surfaces; it is far better to respray our paint a 'key'. A big advantage of
the whole model than try to repair a water based paints is that it is much
damaged or missed area with a easier to thin them by simply adding
paintbrush. water, and similarly cleaning the air-
The airbrush enables the feathered brush is not such an onerous operation
edge that sometimes appears between as again water is the only cleaning

72
 PAINTING AND AIRBRUSHING

white and light by a touch of black, so

A simple spraying booth for use with once again experimentation is required.
airbrush. This prevents overspray and In painting real aeroplanes a certain
unintentional spraying of adjacent amount of tolerance has to be allowed, in
components, equipment, etc addition to which a newly painted aircraft
that has just left the factory will look a
lot different, colourwise. than one which
has been exposed to all sorts of weather
conditions and service life. So a general
rule is to research your own subject and
try to the best of your ability to finish
your model in the colours that you inter-
pret as being accurate.
While on the subject of paint it is well
worth taking a look at some of the faults
and problems that can occur during air-
brushing, as a high percentage of these
can be directly attributable to the paint
being used.
It has already been stated that well
stirred and mixed paint is essential, so if
the brush fails to spray, the propellant
and mechanism is known to be in work-
ing order, then the fault can often be
traced to something connected with the
paint mix. If the consistency appears to
For ease of turning model a disused
gramophone turntable or wooden be correct then the brush nozzle must be
disc on spindle can befitted to base
blocked, and this will often be found to
have been caused by a tiny particle of
pigment that has eluded the mixing and
stirring operations. The only sure way to
medium necessary. prevent this is to filter the paint before
There is little to be gained by once use through a fine mesh such as part of a
again raising the for and against argu- lady's pair of tights or stocking. Another
ments that occur in relation to authentic fault is that sometimes the paint will

colours. Colour reproduction on a scale spurt or spray unevenly, this is caused

model is something that has been argued by air bubbling into the colour cup which
about for years, and is likely to continue can be caused by the paint being too
to be as long as modellers meet or write thick and building up on the needle or
to magazines. Obviously it is necessary around the nozzle outlet. It can also be
to aim for the most authentic colour you caused by the rubber gromet on the
can obtain with the paints available, but Aerograph DeVilbiss, or the wax seal
discretion must be exercised. The exact on the Badger, not having been replaced
colours used on full size aircraft, would after the brush has been stripped for
in many cases look far too dark if they cleaning.
were transferred to a 1:72 scale model, A grainy texture to the paint or the
as it is not possible to reduce the tonal brush causing spattering can be the
qualities by the amounts we are con- result of a number of things. One is the
cerned with. Many manufacturers of old favourite of too thick a paint mix, but
paints used specifically in model making the more common is insufficient air pres-
market what they term authentic col- sure or a bent needle. The former is
ours, and generally these are fine for the more often associated with aerosol pro-
size of models we are mainly concerned pellant cans as the pressure falls off, or
with. Due to the vagaries of paint man- being used for too long a period. If this
ufacture, batches made at different times happens change the can or take a break
can be quite different in their tonal qual- and stand the can in warm water for a
ities, so tins bought at different times while to help it recover. If a compressor
should be matched before they are is being used, then check the connec-

applied to a model. Dark colours can be tions between the brush and the com-
lightened by the addition of a touch of pressor and the compressor and air line.

73
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

If the needle is bent it is possible to very before it gets into the brush.
gently straighten it but this is difficult so These few points on fault finding are
it is advisable to have a spare handy, and the most common ones that will be
make a note to be more careful with this encountered, but there are others and
part in the future. the majority of them will all be traceable
A colour fleck at the commencement back to the common point of cleanliness
of spraying is invariably the result of and maintenance. A properly looked
poor cleaning of the previous colour, after airbrush will give no headaches so
sometimes this can be put right by spray- meticulous attention to careful cleaning
ing on to a spare piece of plastic or card and following of the manufacturer's
until the correct colour starts to flow, but instructions in all respects will pay
it is usually better to clean the brush and dividends in trouble-free use.
start again. To wind up this chapter a word about
If the paint is too thin simply run
it will the environment in which airbrushing is
as it being sprayed
hits the surface that is carried out will not be amiss. Always
and not cover the undercoat or surface, make sure that the room is well venti-
so just add more paint until colour adhe- lated and, since a certain amount of paint
sion is achieved. One problem that is is going to be absorbed into the atmos-

often encountered is that certain colours phere, it is advisable to use a small mask
mark easily after they have been to protect the mouth and nostrils, espe-
sprayed. This fault is confined to paints cially if prolonged periods are to be spent
using certain pigments and in simple in this atmosphere. The airbrush
terms what is happening is that the mix is atomizes paint to a very fine degree and
not quite right. It is thin enough to spray whilst the body's natural juices will
but dries too quickly, in some cases as absorb such small quantities without ill
soon as it touches the model's surface, effect, certain paints can cause severe
so although the colour looks right, if it is irritation if precautions are not taken. To
handled the fingers will lift the paint, spray in a room with poor ventilation is
which is by now more or less coloured likely to lead to headaches, runny eyes,
powder, from the surface. Of course all and clogging of the small hairs in the nos-
airbrushed paint dries extremely quick- trils. Whilst the danger to health is by no
ly, but even so it should not be handled means as likely as it is to those engaged
for at least 24 hours, except during other on full-size spraying, it is best to be wise
spraying operations —
for example a two rather than suffer any chance of discom-
or three colour camouflage when a — fort. It is also wise to read the paint
tissue should be used to protect the sur- manufacturer's instructions which are
face. It is not always appreciated that the printed on some as these clearly
tins
fingers absorb a great deal of moisture, s.tate when a confined area
airbrushing in
can easily become very greasy and this can be dangerous. A
small spraying
can be transferred to a model with disas- booth constructed from odd pieces of
trous results. wood with one side open —
even a card-
A final problem confined in the
that is board box suitably adapted will do —
is a

main to users of electric or foot-operated useful asset and will give protection to
compressors, is that of water in the air any adjacent walls, especially during the
line. When air is compressed the mois- early days of experimentation when
ture in it is also compressed and forms paint can end up everywhere. This type
little droplets which will easily filter into of booth can be extended to include a
the air-line and brush causing blemishes simple turntable on which the model can
on the model. This is particularly notice- be rotated without it being touched, and
able when high humidity is present, and even a lid that can be shut when spraying
the only satisfactory cure is the use of a is completed to give a completely dust-

water trap fitted to the compressor free enclosure in which the model can be
which extracts the offending moisture left to dry.

74
 SIX

Authentic finishes
and special effects
There no doubt that the use of an air-
is painted with some form of aluminium
brush really the only way of producing
is coloured paint.
truly authentic finishes since, as we have Most metallic paints such as silver,
already learned in the last chapter, it copper, steel, brass and gold have an
duplicates in miniature the way in which entirely different consistency than nor-
real aircraft are painted.However, there mal enamel paints. When they are used
are some finishes that this equipment in an airbrush the end result is a model
produces too well and in so doing fails to that looks as though it is chromium
reproduce the effect the modeller is seek- plated or finished in pure gold or brass.
ing. The most common of these is overall The occasions when colours such as
natural metal or alternatively a silver those mentioned, apart from silver, are
finish when the aircraft concerned is used are very rare, but it is with silver

Multi-tone finish on natural metal

finished aircraft by using matt
and gloss Metalskin or adding
varying degrees of black
and grey to silver paint

75
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

that most modellers encounter problems. They are very useful for a base from
Mostsilver paint will spray from an which to mix different tones but it often
airbrush with little difficulty and produce pays to look further afield than the model
an overall finish that is smooth and even, shop in the quest for a good aluminium-
but it lacks the 'feeling" of the real thing based paint. One such paint is the heat
and the resultant model will look far resisting aluminium paint sold under the
from authentic. 'Household" brand name in some chain
If a study is made of aircraft that carry stores and DIY shops. This particular
a natural metal finish it will quickly be brand dries very flat with a most con-
observed that the overall effect is very vincing natural metal appearance and
akin to a metal patchwork quilt. Panels can be mixed with normal modelling
made from different batches of paints to achieve the multi-tone finish
aluminium, those cut with the metal's under discussion. One tremendous
grain going in different directions, and advantage, especially to the modeller
those frequently removed for routine who choses to specialise in aircraft with
servicing, combine to achieve this effect natural metal finishes, is that a half pint
which can be very difficult to capture on tin costs less than 50p, thus saving
a model. considerably over the normal tinlets that
As it is difficult to mask silver without are associated with model making.
damaging the surface already painted Assuming that you wish to try this
and covered, the use of an airbrush is a type of paint in obtaining a natural look-
long irksome business but it can be used ing natural metal finish, the first step is
in the following way. First spray the to find as many references in the form of
model silver overall then, when this is photographs of the model being painted,
dry, seal the finish with matt varnish. then simulate these into a mental picture
When the varnish has dried hard, work of how you want the model to look. On
out the panels that have to stay in the small 1:72 scale models it is very easy to
original tone and cut masking panels for overdo the tonal mixes and end up with a
these. The masking is then applied and model that really does look like a patch-
will not damage the finish when it is work quilt, so in cases like this a com-
removed as this is protected by the var- promise has to be sought. Generally
nish. Mix a different shade of silver by speaking the larger the scale of the model
adding light grey, then spray again. Once the easier it is to get away with a mul-
more it is necessary to repeat the sealing titude of different toned panels. Having
process with varnish before cutting out worked out the panels that are to be
further masks for additional panels then painted with the mix straight from the
spraying with another silver mix. This tin, apply this with a number 4 or 6 brush
process is repeated until you have used making sure that the edges are straight.
as many silver mixes as required, then Whilst these panels are drying take sev-
the masking tape is removed. The danger eral drops of paint from the tin and trans-
of this method is that the final panels will fer them to a mixing dish then add a
have received as many colour values as touch of black, stir the paint well until
have been used, and if these have not the silver and black are thoroughly
been sprayed very thinly the separation mixed and not too dark, then paint the
between all the panels of different tonal panels that are to have this tonal value.
qualities will be evidenced by a sizeable Now repeat the process using light grey
ridge. In view of the problems that this with a touch of white and paint more
method can produce it pays to look for panels. By experimenting with different
an easier alternative, the simplest of colours you will quickly find those that
which is the use of brush painting. The look right and those that don't. If the
secret of applying silver with a brush is aircraft being modelled has some high
to ensure that the paint is mixed very gloss panels these can be painted with
well and is continually checked during Humbrol, Paclra or Airfix silver to make
painting. Always paint in one direction them contrast with those that are in the
and avoid going over areas that have dull fiat aluminium. During this type of
already been painted. painting remember that silver is not in
Most of the enamel paints sold for fact a colourand tends to reflect those
modelling tend to have too high a lustre colours around it. Quite clearly it would
as far as silver is concerned and are be incorrect to try to simulate the reflec-
prone to drying 'streaky' when brushed. tion of colours that might affect the air-

76
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

craft when it is in its hangar or parked on of lustre, so the obvious step in achiev-
a hardstanding, but on the other hand, a ing a multi-tonal finish is to regard the
high gloss panel on the fuselage will normal sprayed finish as the base or pre-
absorb some of the duller panels that dominant colour, then select panels
might reflect in it from the wings or tail- which can be polished to various tones
planes, and will therefore tend to look a untilthe result aimed for is achieved.
little darker. Masking tape must not be applied over
This type of finish is very rewarding if Liqu-A-Plate so it is essential that indi-
it done correctly, there are no short
is vidual panels or areas are polished with
cuts and the only answer is practice, care making sure that demarcation lines
practice and more practice. between adjacent panels are straight and
If painting a model by this method true. Once the model has been finished
does not appeal but you still yearn for a in this way it must be sprayed with the
natural finish, there are other ways of special Liqu-A-Plate sealer otherwise
achieving it. the finish will gradually be removed.
Liqu-A-Plate is the trade name of a This sealing is done after the decals have
specFal type of paint developed in been applied so during the application of
America specifically for obtaining these the surface must be protected by a
authentic looking metal finishes. It is tissue held between the fingers otherwise
available in a variety of metallic colours the areas where the model has been
including silver which can be used to handled will be polished or worse still
achieve the sort of finish that has been the finish will be removed.
outlined. This type of paint must be A similar method but not using any
sprayed on to the model with an airbrush form of paint is the use of a tube of silver
in one overall coat. Once it has dried it is paste which is marketed in modelling
possible to polish it to a very high degree circles under the name Rub "n Buff.

This 1:32 scale F-86F from a Hasegawa kit has been finished entirely in Rub 'n' Buff.
Some panels have been polished to a greater degree than others to give a toned contrast
seen on natural metal finished aircraft (photo by John Carter).

77
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

This material is similar to that used in the careful as you might have been, espe-
restoration of antiques and picture ciallyaround join lines. If this is the case
frames as well as other artistic fields. In give these areas further attention from
England the company famous for artists fillerand/or sanding, then restore the ini-
materials, George Rowney & Co Ltd. tial coat of Rub n Buff in the way
produce a product under the trade name already described. The final coat is
of Goldtlnger which it is possible to use applied in exactly the same way using
with the same result as Rub 'n Buff. the plastic sponge but this time it is
Both these materials come in tubes simi- applied a little thinner and polished by
lar in size to a normal toothpaste tube gentle rubbing as you proceed. The
and they are applied to the model by finish achieved can vary from the gleam-
squeezing a small portion on to a card ing panels seen on the engine panels of
then applying it to the surface of the 'between-the-wars" biplanes, to a dull
model with a soft rag held over one or lustre more associated with a battle
two fingers. They can both be thinned weary P-47 or P-51. The extent of shine
with turpentine or White Spirit and required is achieved by frequent gentle
applied with a brush in the same way as rubbing over the same area and not hard
paint, but for the purpose of modelling pressure which will only remove the
only the finger-rubbed method will be pigment. During the final polishing make
considered. sure that the sponge is kept well filled
Before attempting to apply Rub "n with Rub 'n Buff as this acts as a lubri-
Buff it is essential that the major compo- cant and prevents the surface that is being
nents of the model are prepared by worked on from being scratched. It will
lightly sanding and all blemishes be realised that by varying the amount of
removed, since if they are not even the attention given to individual panels these
smallest scratch will prevent the Rub 'n can easily be made to contrast with each
Buff from being polished in that area and other in a most effective way. A final
it will stick out like the proverbial sore overall polish with a soft rag will pay
thumb. Once the basic preparation has dividends but make sure that this is
been done assemble all the major parts nothing more than a gentle passing of the
but leave off components such as rag which should be something like
underwing stores, the undercarriage, cheese cloth and not a lint-like material
aerials, and similar small pieces that can which will only leave small pieces adher-
easily be knocked off. Now wash the ing to the surface. Once the finish you
plastic with thinners and allow this to dry want has been obtained the quickest way
before starting to polish. The technique to spoil it is by constant handling, espe-
used is quite different to any other so cially if your fingers are still impregnated
forget all that you may have learned with silver pigment, so be sure to handle
about painting and instead study the the model with a clean soft cloth. If at
methods used by any female members of any time the finish does not seem to be
the household when they are polishing going the way you want it to, a drop of
the furniture. thinners will quickly remove all traces of
Squeeze about '/s inch of polish from that which has been applied leaving the
the tube on to a piece of soft plastic surface ready for another attempt.
sponge, the type used for cleaning baths Component parts are treated in the
and sinks is ideal, then apply it to the same way but to prevent excessive hand-
model. Aim to spread the polish thinly ling first fix them to double-sided tape
and evenly over the surface, working then treat them in the same way as the
quickly but not rubbing too hard, if you major parts. Contrast on undercarriage
do, the pigment from the polish will be legs can be achieved by giving the oleo
removed and the net result will be a sections a very high gloss finish to simu-
piece of highly polished plastic still in its late their constant sliding, and not polish-
moulded colour. When the polish stops ing the non-sliding parts to the same
spreading repeat the process with degree. On such components as these
another application making sure that this Rub "n Buff can be diluted with thin-
blends into the area that has already ners and applied with a paintbrush in the
been treated. When the whole area that normal way.
has to be treated has been covered with Before fitting all the accessories to the
this initial coat you may notice that it has model make sure that any residual polish
highlighted work where you were not as is removed from locating points as it

78
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

remains completely unaffected by poly- Many modellers will argue that the
styrene cement and will thus prevent such only real way to produce a natural metal
parts from staying attached. Rub "n Buff finish is to simulate the full-size aircraft
can be used in conjunction with normal by making models in metal. This method
painted areas but it is best to paint such is one that requires a great deal of skill

areas first then mask them out as mask- and equipment and is probably beyond
ing tape applied over Rub 'n Buff can the scope of the modeller who wishes to
damage the surface when it is removed. build-up a collection of some quantity
Decais can be applied in the normal way over a reasonable period of time. But
but it is best to avoid the rub down vari- there is a method of getting very close to
ety as these do not adhere very well and reproducing the real thing in miniature
efforts to make them do so can mark the and that is by covering the model in
polished surface where they have been metal foil which is cut to represent the
rubbed. panels that would go into making a mod-
Thevariation in surface finish will ern aeroplane.
produce the tonal effect to a fairly The metal foil that is used to obtain
authentic degree, but by mixing various this type of finish is available from
shades of the basic silver polish even specialist model shops, most of whom
better results can be produced. will supply by direct mail, but in addition
It is now possible to obtam Rub "n to this there is an equally as good mater-
Buff in a variety of colours including ial available in most kitchens in the form

Frosted Blue, Olive Bronze, Gold and of baking foil. The sheets that are pro-
Copper. These can all be mixed with duced specifically for modelling are
each other and silver to produce a vari- marketed under the name of Metalskin
ety of tones which look most effective. and Baremetal, both of which originated
Ordinary enamel paint can also be in the USA, and although their use has
blended with Rub "n Buff by blending declined in popularity during the last two
the paint and polish with thinners then years they are still available from the
applying with a brush. This combination sources mentioned. These two products
will not polish as well as the straight are self-adhesive paper laminated to a
from the tube material but, if it is applied smooth metal surface which can be
in small quantities in the right areas, it bought with a gloss or matt finish. This
will produce results that can be difficult type of metal finish is fairly easy to apply
to obtain by other methods. but the thickness of the material can lead
Amixture of silver and gold in propor- to a model that does not look exactly
tions of about 60/40 is ideal for producing right despite the claims of the manufac-
the finish often seen on panels that are turers and those modellers who feel it is
affected by heat such as those around the the only answer to true metal finishes.
tail pipes and rear fuselage of the F-lOO In many cases the scale of the model
Super Sabre. concerned is the paramount factor, for a
In addition to applying overall finishes 1:72 scale fighter such as the P-51 can
this material alsohas an infinite number end up looking as though it has been
of uses when conventional paint has made either from old scraps of
been used. It can be used to add high- aluminium or cast in solid silver, neither
lights to gun barrels, the simulation of of which is truly representative. On
wear around removable panels, wheel larger models the size does enable this
centre-hubs, polished pitot heads and in type of finish to be carried much more
weathering; a subject that will be dealt convincingly but there is still a very real
with later in this chapter. danger of producing the same effects as
If your first attempts do not work out those mentioned in the P-51 example.
right it will probably be because you The best method to employ if any form
have applied the polish too thickly, try- of metal skinning is to be tried, is to first
ing to make one thick coat do instead of assemble all the components as separate
two thin ones: rubbed too hard and items and cover them up before they are
removed all the pigment, or failed to put together.
prepare the surface properly before start- Before making a start make sure that
ing. Whatever the cause it is a simple all interior detail such as wheel wells and

matter to start again and worth persever- cockpit interiors are painted in approp-
ing with as a well finished model can riate colours then, to get the feel of the
look very authentic. technique and material, select a fairly

79
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Apply panels to areas marked on

model, changing tone texture on
some panels

Cut metal foil against steel

rule with safety razor blade
or knife to panels on aircraft
Wings/tailplanes can be covered in one
trimmed along edges after being
strip then
firmly burnished down

simple part such as a wing on which to direction paying particular attention to

apply the first panels. The first step is to the edges of the panel. Adjacent panels
sand off all the rivet detail and panel are cut and put on in exactly the same
lines from one wing only. Now, using the way until the whole surface is covered.
other as a guide, cut out panels from the Avoid making joins at the leading and
foil to match those marked on the mould- trailing edges as this may cause the mat-
ing. Always use a sharp knife and a steel erial to lift. The best method of tackling
rule as a guide and cut the material on a these areas is to employ small panels that
smooth clean work surface or alterna- wrap around the edges with the joins
tively a thickish piece of cardboard. coming back on to the top and bottom
When a panel has been marked and cut surfaces at the main spar point or edges
out apply it by gently peeling off the of trailing edge control surfaces. By
backing paper then making sure it lines studying the texture of the foil it will be
up correctly on the wing that is being noticed that it has a definite grain so use
covered, press it into position ensuring this to obtain texture by alternating the
that the panel is laying in the exact posi- direction in which it runs on adjacent
tion you want it. The adhesive is quite panels. A mixture of gloss and matt
strong so it is essential that the panel is panels always produces a more convinc-
completely square to its datum lines ing effect but do not fall into the trap of
before it is pressed into position. When varying these to a set pattern. A good
this has been done smooth the panel over method is to apply matt panels to the cen-
the contours with a soft handkerchief tre areas of the wings and cover the lead-
wrapped around the fingertips starting ing and trailing edges in gloss. When the
from the middle and working towards the tip is reached do not try to follow the out-
edges. When the adhesive has bonded line of the plastic by cutting the foil close
burnish the whole panel with a rounded to this, simply allow a generous overlap
wooden stick, the small end of a paint- then press the top and bottom covermg
brush is ideal for this. Always work together until the shape becomes appar-
backwards and forwards in the same ent. Take a pair of sharp scissors and

80
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

trim the excess off following the line of But be careful not to cut too deeply
the wing tip, the shearing action of the otherwise there is a danger of the surface
scissors will bond the two pieces being damaged to a degree where the cut
together and a final burnish with the will show up as a definite line on the
wooden dowel will complete the job. On finished surface. Any small creases that
some tips there might be a tendency for appear on curved panels can usually be
the foil to slightly part company at the burnished out unless you have tried to
leading and trailing edges, if this happens cover too large a curved surface, when
fill the gap with thick silver paint and the only solution is to remove the panel
leave this to dry before attempting any and start again with a smaller one. Make
more work. When one wing has been sure that all joins butt together neatly so
completed the other one can have its sur- that after burnishing these appear as
face detail removed and covered in the mere hairlines. Additional panels such as
same way using the panels on the first inspection hatches can be scribed into
wing as a guide. the surface with a scriber or the pointed
On some small aircraft an alternative end of dividers, and rivet or cowling fas-
method is to cover the whole wing sur- teners can be simulated in the same way.
face with one piece of foil. To do this Rivets and fasteners are nearly always
cover the top first and cut a piece of foil spaced equally so accurate measuring
to the shape of the wing, again leaving and marking of these is essential. How-
generous overlaps all round. Peel off the ever, there is a foolproof method which
backing paper and starting at the trailing does not involve any form of measuring;
edge gradually pull the foil tight over the this is the use of a small toothed gear
whole surface smoothing it flat towards from a broken clock. By fixing such a
the leading edge. Burnish it with the wheel to a cocktail stick then running it
finger tips wrapped in a handkerchief along a straight edge in the position
until all the detail such as control surface where the rivets are to appear you will
joins show through then roll the surplus obtain perfectly spaced impressions
material underneath and trim it at a con- which look much better than those
venient point. The uncovered area on applied in any other way. Another
the undersurface is then covered with method of adding inspection panels is to
one piece of foil cut to the shape needed. cut these from a contrasting strip of foil
This method prevents the use of alterna- and position them over the already skin-
tion of grain or the combined use of matt ned surface in appropriate places.
and gloss foil and only works satisfac- Tailplanes are covered in the same
torily on wings that have fairly straight way as wings but these components,
edged planforms. Since it is not possible often being smaller than any other part of
to introduce any variations in texture the the major assembly, can usually be
one piece covering method should be covered by the one piece method.
confined to small fighter aircraft where Once all the parts are covered as indi-
the one tone finish is not so glaring as it vidual components, assemble them in
would be on. say, a B-47. the normal way then finish the model by
Fuselages must be tackled by the indi- adding thin strips where any joins have
vidual panel method so to obtain a work- not butted together as accurately as they
ing guide for the panel lines it is neces- should have done. The foil is fairly thin
sary either to have another kit of the so small pieces such as this can usually
same type available or make a detailed be pushed into areas and burnished
plan of the panel layout before removing down without appearing obtrusive. Aer-
this detail. Another way to do this is to ials, exhaust ports, wheels and other
sand off the detail on one half, cover this accessories, painted in appropriate col-
using the unsanded half as a guide, then ours are added to finally complete the
sand this smooth and use the covered model and it is at this stage that the full
side as a guide from which to cut the impact of a metal skinned model will
other panels. have its true effect. If done properly this
The application of panels to the fuse- method of obtaining a natural metal
lage is straightforward until it comes to appearance can work well, but it is very
areas where there are compound curves. easy to mar it by trying to be too ambi-
The best way to cover these is to skin the tious in alternating the grain and colour of
area with small pieces of foil, cutting the panels, and on smaller models mak-
them to shape once they are in position. ing them look clumsy due to the overall

81
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

thickness of the skin. where the search for true authenticity is

Ordinary domestic kitchen foil is a difficult one as aircraft painted in
much thinner than most other types of camouflage schemes can also present
metal skinning but the method of apply- many problems.
ing it is very much harder. This material The biggest trap that many newcomers
does not have any form of adhesive to the hobby fall into is the continual
backing so this must be added by the quest for absolute accuracy, which in
modeller. Basically the same techniques any paint scheme is impossible to attain.
as described are used but instead of try- Any full size aircraft reduced to the
ing to cut panels by measuring and trac- dimensions of a scale model would look
ing existing ones an alternative method entirely wrong if such a reduction
has to be used. included exact reproduction of the origi-
Cut a small piece of kitchen foil from nal scheme. The tonal qualities of paint
the roll and place the brightest side on must also be adjusted in scale if a model
the surface of the model, hold it firmly in is to look right. Large areas painted in

place then gently rub it with a soft cloth. dark camouflage colours absorb and
The foil will quickly adopt the shape of reflect more light than smaller areas, so
the component over which it is placed if the same paint mix that was used on a

and the panel lines will quickly become full size Phantom was applied to a 1:72
very evident. Now remove the foil and scale model the result would be a very
with a small pair of sharp scissors cut out dull and incorrect looking model. To
the shape that has been impressed in it. overcome such problems it is wise to
Cover the area to which the panel is to lighten such colours to a degree where,
be attached, and the inside of the foil although they retain their basic shade,
panel, with Uhu or matt varnish, leave the tonal valu.e is reduced.
this several minutes until it is tacky, then There are too many self-appointed
bring the panel and component together. experts who try to stick rigidly to laid
Both parts will stick almost instantane- down paint specifications without any
ously so it is impossible to remove the thought of the various effects reduction
foil for another attempt if it was not lined in size can make. Similarly it can also be
up correctly. The material is burnished very convenient to accept the unwritten
in the same way but special care must be lav/ of the specification without any
taken to ensure that the adhesive is regard to local conditions or operational
applied evenly and thinly otherwise it short cuts.
will cause blemishes that it is impossible Before any model is started a picture
to remove without splitting the covering must be formed in the mind as to exactly
foil. how the finished product is to look. This
Kitchen foil is grained in a similar way is especially important as far as the col-

to the products mentioned earlier so it is our scheme is concerned and parallel to

just as easy to obtain a varied texture this must be the consideration of the
with this; but as one side is far too glossy period of the aircraft and its function.
for realism it is not so easy to achieve the Very few aircraft retain a pristine factory
variations in tonal quality. The big fresh finish for very long although there
advatnage of this domestic material, are obviously exceptions to this which
apart from its availability and price, is must be considered. A World War 2
that it is so much thinner than the spe- fighter would have been kept serviceable
cially produced products and therefore to a very high degree but those responsi-
produces a much more delicate finish. ble for its maintenance would have been
Although there is some merit in the use more concerned with its mechanical
of any type of metal skinning my own serviceability than outward appear-
its
personal view is that it is much better ance. This does not mean that it would
and more realistic when it is confined to have been neglected to the degree that is
small areas such as the cowlings of air- sometimes seen on models where the
craft like the Hawker Hart and Fury. builder's enthusiasm has been given too
But we have learned many times that much rein, since a conscientious
modelling is very much a matter of per- ground-crew would always make sure
sonal choice and what pleases one mod- that damaged areas were repaired and
eller does not necessarily have the same the canopy polished. But overall the air-
effect on another. craft would not be kept in the same con-
It is not only in natural metal finishes dition as, for example, those highly

82
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

polished biplanes of the RAF in the cluding modelling aircraft. For example.
1930s. Thought must also be given to McDonnells F-4 Phantom II, which
operational environments, since the caused one Fleet Air Arm pilot to ques-
effect of the sun in hot climates, mud, tion whether or not it had been delivered
snow and rain in other situations, would the right way up or not, is not perhaps
all combine to not only wear the applied one of the best-looking aircraft ever
finish but also change its colour quite made, but to many its purely functional
dramatically. Aircraft that are fre- shape is a thing to be regarded as the
quently parked exposed to the elements ultimate in aeronautical beauty. Similar-
will show much different tonal qualities ly, a model finished without a blemish
to their paintwork than those which enjoy and looking as though it has just rolled
shelter. The paint used on modern air- off the production line is the ultimate in
craft is of far higher quality and an some modellers" eyes, whereas an
entirely different make-up than that used equally well-built model painted deliber-
during the two major world wars, simi- ately to look as though it has stood out in
larly a peacetime air force generally has all weathers and thoroughly neglected
more time available in which to ensure appeals to others. Basically one can boil
that their aircraft do not become 'scruf- the whole thing down to one question
fy'. Points such as these are well worth which is, 'are you making a model or a
considering and experimentation in replica?" A model of say a Spitfire,
obtaining the correct paint mix can be as finished in the correct colours, carrying
much fun as actually painting a com- correct codes and accurate insignia, will
pleted model. The colour references for show that aircraft as it should have
different camouflage colours is obtain- looked, whereas the same model with
able in many specialised books and these paint chipped, oil stains and exhaust tar-
are useful guides which should not be nishing will be a replica of what the orig-
ignored, as wherever possible these were inal probably looked like.
adhered to by the personnel concerned. However clean an aircraft may look
But there were, and are. many instances both in reality and in photographs, close
where an official paint mix was not examination will invariably show that
available and the nearest equivalent was panels are dented, paintwork is worn,
pressed into service. To obtain the sun- fuel and oil spillage has marred the
bleached effect that is apparent on many paintwork, and some areas have been
aircraft used in the Middle East, existing repaired and painted in slightly different
authentic colours can be lightened by colours. As with many other points men-
adding matt white or light grey, starting tioned, the finish required is a matter of
with the basic colour and adding these in personal choice, but experimentation is
very minor quantities until the effect that always worthwhile, and even if a weath-
is being sought is achieved. Black and ered model does not appeal it can be
dark grey will add depth and darkness to rewarding to try at least one.
colours but again the watchword must be Before trying to obtain a realistic
caution. weathered finish it is advisable to study
Any hard and fast mixes and techni- photographs or full-size aircraft to get
ques would only serve to confuse the some idea of the effect wanted. One
reader who is much better off if he uses word of warning: discretion must be
his own proven methods to get the finish used, as it is all too easy to go too far and
that he wants and seeks. The last com- then the only result is disappointment.
ment is really the only one that matters A model must be viewed as
1:72 scale
as every model is made to please the per- though it the real thing viewed at a
is

son who- is constructing it, and if this distance that would give the small size of
goal is achieved then the model has ful- the model; with this in mind it is easy to
filled its object. appreciate that a lot of the scruffy
Variations in colour tones and finish appearance seen close-up would not
are basically a mild form of 'weathering' apply to the model. One of the easiest
which is an art in itself and is either liked things to reproduce is the chipped paint-
or despised by modellers or those who work around panels, wing and tailplane
derive pleasure from looking at models. leading edges, and crew entry points.
There is an old saying that claims 'beauty When the model has been finished and
is in the eye of the beholder", and this prepared for painting, apply silver paint
adage can be applied to most things in- or Rub 'n Buff in the areas where wear is

83
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

to be depicted, then mask out small areas only just survived a fire, so care and
with pieces of masking tape or Magic practice are needed as well as a long
Masker, and paint in the normal way; study of the effect that is being aimed at
when the paint has dried, remove the whenever the opportunity arises at air
masking and gently rub the worn areas displays or visits to airfields.
with a tissue. This method avoids the Soot and pastel chalks, which can be
unrealistic look that is achieved by dab- powdered by rubbing them on paper, are
bing silver paint over the complicated useful for obtaining staining of this type
model; after all, the final paintwork on and these materials can be applied very
the original is applied over the metal effectively with a cotton wool earbud,
skin and then wears off, so why not do soft paintbrush or tissue; once the cor-
the same thing in miniature? rect effect has been achieved with these
Rub "n Buff is very useful for simulat- it is necessary to seal them with a spray

ing wear around panel joins where paint of varnish. The same methods can also
tends to rub off rather than be chipped. be used to show stains around gun ports
To do this first simulate any chips by the but remember that such stains have a
method detailed then paint the final coat peculiarity of being thrown forward ini-
and when this is quite dry put a small dab tially therefore creating a darker stain at
of Rub "n Buff on the end of a cotton the front of the port than at the rear, this
wool earbud and gently rub it down is especially noticeable on aircraft such

panel lines. The operative word is gent- as the F-86 with nose-mounted guns.
ly; hardly any pressure is needed as a Quite frequently aircraft that have suf-
simple dusting will be enough to deposit fered battle damage are repaired with
just the right amount of Rub "n Buff in panels taken from other machines or
the indentations between the joining with new patches doped on, in the case
panels. This method can be used very of fabric-covered aircraft. This effect
effectivelyon cowlings and removable can be obtained by painting the area
access hatches to highlight the screw concerned a different colour — red oxide
type fastenings as paint is quickly being a familiar finish on World War 2
removed from clips and screw heads that aircraft; but this must be done with
are frequently removed for routine extreme thought and care, and under no
maintenance. circumstances overdone. After all, an
Exhaust stains are quite common on aircraft that has so many patches that it
most aircraft, except of course, jets such begins to resemble Jacob's coat, is
as the Lightning and F-80, where the hardly likely to be in a flyable condition.
efflux does not pass over any surface, Stains from fuel spillage are fairly easy
and these can be reproduced by using to reproduce by filling a small brush with
thinned black paint applied with a brush a mix of matt black and thinners; the lat-
that is almost dry or an airbrush. Matt ter being about ten times as much as the
black is usually too coarse to produce paint; then allowing the mix to flow from
the effect that is wanted so it is advisable the brush around the areas where fuel
to add a touch of light grey. Such stains caps and dump pipes are located. If the
tend to get lighter and spread as they are mix is right the thinners will carry the
dissipated by the aircraft's slipstream, so paint in an ever lightning shade away
try to concentrate on getting a fairly dark from the area, along adjacent panel lines,
colour at the point where the exhaust and down the nearest curved surface,
emits and lighten and spread it as it just like the real thing.
moves down the fuselage or across the Wheels and undercarriage legs should
wing surface. The exhaust gases from a not be forgotten during any weathering
jet are very hot and can cause paint to exercise as these parts are as prone to
blister and discolour in the area around the effects of weather as the rest of the
the tailpipe, one aircraft where this is machine. Never, never, paint wheels
particularly noticeable being the North matt black; a quick look at the family car
American F-lOO Super Sabre which is will indicate that rubber tyres are rarely
more often than not seen with a tail end jet black in colour, but more of a dark
that looks as though it has been inside a grey. One of the best colours to use for
furnace. Applying exhaust stains so that rubber is Humbrol Panzer Grey (HM4)
they look right takes a lot of practice and which seems to capture the exact texture
it is very easy to overdo them so that the of the material. Areas where the wheels
model ends up looking as though it has come in contact with the ground should

84
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

be highlighted .by mixing a slight touch of Indian ink diluted with copious
light grey to the Panzer Grey, or alterna- amounts of water is also a useful medium
tively, if the aircraft concerned has been when it comes to obtaining special
operating from a grass airfield, pick out effects, and one of the beauties of this is
these areas and the treads with a mud that the water evaporates and leaves
colour. very convincing diluted streaks.
Pactra produce a set of weathering There are many other methods and
paints all of which can be applied to materials available including an oven
achieve various effects ranging from polish marketed under the name Zebrite
mud to black and white tinting, among which will produce the most realistic
which one colour simply titled
is metallic effects when rubbed over black
'Weather' which does achieve an overall and silver paint. Every modeller who
worn effect when it is applied correctly likes to finish his models in a truly
in the right amounts. authentic 'service' condition will even-
When all the weathering that is desir- tually find his own ways and materials to
able has been applied to the model, it is do so, but if you have never tried this
advisable to mix a very thin solution of type of finish before, those briefly
the base colour and spray this lightly described will set you on the road from
over the whole model. If for example an which you can branch out to discover
Olive Drab B-17. as shown in the photo- your own.
graphs, has been made to look as though One thing about this type of finish is

it really has done 50 odd trips over that if you don't like it you can always
enemy territory by applying stains, chip- follow the path of the original; return to a
ped paint and patches, finish it by mixing maintenance unit for a re-spray . . .

Olive Drab and thinners in a ratio of One of the most important aspects of
about 10:1 and spray the whole model obtaining a good finish to any model is
with this. The effect will be a general the application of the transfers, or to give
toning down of all areas, including the them their more modern name, decals.
markings, which it is easy to forget when However well painted a model may be, if
weathering with the result that they look the decals are not applied in the correct
too bright and painted on after the air- positions, lined-up accurately and the
craft has been made dirty rather than as carrier film, if applicable, not hidden,
an integral part of the paint scheme that then all the hard work that has gone into
would be as subject to the elements as it will have been wasted.
the rest of the airframe. In the early days of plastic kits the
Gun barrels are items that seldom suf- decals contained in the box were usually
fer from the effects of weather or opera- confined to the bare essentials such as
tional conditions as they are more often the national markings, serials and code
than not covered when the aircraft is on letters. Colour was more often than not
the ground, or in the case of multi- incorrect, symbols were oversize, regis-
engined bombers, removed completely ter was bad, and the markings were far
from the turrets. The gun-metal finish too thick. However, in the same way
associated with barrels is easy to simu- that the basic kit components have
late and can go a long way towards mak- improved, so too have the decals sheets,
ing a model look authentic. First paint all although until recent years these still
the barrels matt black and while this is tended to drag a little way behind the
drying take a soft pencil {2B or 3B) and standards achieved in injection mould-
rub its point on a light grade glasspaper; ing. The result is that today many of the
shake the resulting graphite dust on to a markings contained in kits are produced
clean piece of paper or card, and when to a standard that is high enough to make
the paint has dried, rub this dust into the them equal to those produced and sold
barrels with the fingers. The graphite by specialist manufacturers. Alternative
will polish the matt black paint and add a markings are frequently supplied and
lustre that really does look like gun met- now include such refinements as stencil
al, a coat of varnish will seal the finish markings, rescue arrows, fuel and oil
and prevent it from coming off although points, serial numbers, squadron badges
this is not 100 per cent essential as it is and many other items that were once the
unlikely that parts such as these will be prerogative of the custom produced
the subject of very much handling when decal sheet.
the model has been completed. Long before the present high standard

85
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

of decals was reached the enthusiast

kit of a popular kit.
was able to discard the kit markings and Development of the specialised sheet
use sheets produced by specialist com- of decals has
run parallel to the
panies who had recognised the potential improvement now evident in modern
of the market and catered for it by pro- kits, with the result that the modeller of
ducing a variety of sheets covering today is able to purchase markings of the
almost every need. Most of the sheets highest standard covering almost any
produced by the early pioneers in this field in which he is likely to be
now extremely specialised field would be interested. Such sheets are accurate in
considered of poor quality when com- colour, register, scale thickness and
pared with today's standards, but they basic research, which is really the most
were an improvement over the transfers important aspect of any set of markings.
included in most kits. The trends estab- As standards improved and modellers
lished in the early days have not really became more aware that it was no longer
varied, the tendency being towards pro- necessary to 'make do' with the best of a
ducing either complete sheets of national mediocre selection, the wheat was
markings, supplemented by other univ- sorted from the chaff, with the result that
ersal sheets containing unit and squad- of the many companies who more or less
ron insignia, serial numbers and stencil mushroomed overnight, only those pro-
markings, or a composite sheet contain- ducing firstclass products survived.
ing sufficient markings to complete, for In Britain there are only a handful left
example, three versions of one particular and competition between them ensures
aircraft. In many cases specialised that standards set are of the highest.
sheets of decals were, and in fact still Thus the user gets good value for
are, more expensive than the kit to money. Competition from overseas is
which they are to be applied. But this is very strong with the development of the
only to be expected as their production custom-designed decal sheet following a
runs do not even remotely approach that similar development pattern as the UK.

The range of specialist decal sheets available to modellers is now vast. These few examples
adequately illustrate the choice available from such manufacturers as Modeldecal, Micro-
scale, tSCI, Letraset and Aerodecal. In the case of the latter these are for 1:32 scale
models which, until recently, was a neglected field as far as specialist decals were
concerned. All those illustrated with the exception of the rub-down dry transfers of the
CAFare conventional water-slide type (photo by John Carter).

86
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

Generally speaking there are only two the surface that is to receive the marking
types of decals available to modellers, by spraying (preferably) or painting the
these being the conventional water-slide whole model with a gloss varnish after
type and the more recently introduced the finished paintwork has dried. Allow
rub-down or pressure decal. Both have the varnish to dry then cut out the mark-
their advantages and disadvantages so. ing that is required and, holding it with a
as with most things, the final choice as to pair of tweezers, gently touch it on to the
which type to use remains with the indi- surface of a bowl of clean water to which
vidual modeller. has been added just a drop of washing-up
Looking first at the water-slide type detergent. Remove the marking and
one finds the familiar and easy to use place it on a clean tissue which will
method known to the youngest school- absorb the surplus liquid. Now paint the
boy, where the symbol is soaked in area where the marking is to be applied
water and then transferred to the object with Solvaset or Microsol, lift the mark-
that it is to decorate. The basis of this ing with the tweezers and place it in posi-
type of sheet is a varnish and solvent, the tion. Try to get this correct first time as it
insignia being painted on the varnish and is not too good an idea to slide it about

then carried by this to the model when too much when it is on the model's sur-
the solvent has been dissolved in water. face. Take a clean tissue or soft rag and
Such sheets in their basic form are gently press the marking down starting at
economical and easy to produce, hence its centre and working towards the edges,
the almost total use of this form of mark- this will expel any water that is still trap-
ing by kit manufacturers, where vast ped underneath and also remove trapped
quantities of markings of the same type air which can cause air blisters. When
can be made to a not too demanding the marking is correctly placed paint a
standard at a reasonable price (actually a thin coat of Solvaset or Microsol over it
fraction of a penny per sheet). and do not touch it again. It is best to
However, once an improvement in position all markings first and then apply
standards is called for. the cost rises. the thin solution of solvent, the model
Use of more sophisticated varnishes, can then be left for about six hours until
solvents and top quality printing tends to this has dried. The solvent will soften the
make costs escalate, though resulting in markings and help them to set properly
far better quality markings. The process over any panel lines, etc. over which
is slower and demands more care, while they are placed. When all the markings
the production run may be as little as are thoroughly dry give the whole model
2,000 sheets. One of the most important a coat of gloss or matt varnish,
advantages of the water-slide decal is whichever is appropriate for the finish
that it is extremely easy to use; once the desired. The American company Mic-
selected symbol has been cut from the roscale market a complete set of aids
sheet it is only a question of applying for decal application which go under the
enough water to remove it from the back- names of Microsol, Microcoat Flat and
ing sheet and slide it into position, a Microcoat Gloss. These are obtainable
technique familiar to all who have ever from large hobby shops, but if you have
made a kit. Providing the markings are any difficult\ then ordinary matt and
kept damp enough they can be slipped gloss varnish will do.
into any position before they are finally The benefits of the method described are
pressed into their correct positions by a that the markings are given a good protec-
soft rag or tissue. If care is taken in tion against peeling or breaking as they dry
trimming the carrier film this will be less out. they will not fade or discolour as the
noticeable when the marking has dried. model ages, and furthermore, if the work
In fact some of the sheets now available is carried out properly the carrier film
have such fine carrier film and are will be rendered invisible. With some
printed on such thin paper, that even if water-slide transfers it is advisable to
the film is not trimmed as carefully as it trim this film before application but this
might have been, the surrounding film needs a sharp knife and steady hand and
that so often mars a model, is almost should be done with caution as it is easy
unnoticeable. to cut out too much carrier, especially in
The best way to apply water-slide Bs, 8s. and Hs. making such markings
decals is the use of solvents and var- difficult to handle and very prone to
nishes in addition to water. First prepare breaking.

87
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Apart from the marring effect of car- mar the adjacent paintwork. This advan-
one other major disadvantage
rier film, tage really comes into its own in applying
of the water-slide type transfer is the fact very small markings such as serial num-
that, unless it is treated in the way bers which are too fine to be trimmed
described, it will eventually show signs closely in the water-slide type. But a dis-
of age by cracking and peeling. Because advantage is that once the marking is
of their nature water-slide transfers are positioned and rubbed-down it cannot be
usually printed on fairly heavy paper — moved, therefore 100 per cent accuracy
although there are some exceptions — is essential when locating markings on

with the result that unless some form of the model. If a mistake is made, the only
solvent is used, they will not always fol- solution is to apply adhesive tape over
low curved surfaces as well as is wished. the marking and remove it completely;
But overall, the water-slide transfer will after this operation it cannot be used
always be popular and the range avail- again, thus making relatively simple
able is so vast that markings to suit every errors a costly business. It is also neces-
need can usually be found. sary to ensure that the marking is held
For many years modellers who, by perfectly still whilst it is being rubbed-
their very nature, are often great impro- down for even the slightest movement
visors, have used standard sheets of will make the part attached to the model
rub-down letters and figures produced detach itself from the part that has still to
for use in art studios by Letraset, Blick, be rubbed. This is not as disastrous as
Rexell and Presletta. These sheets are incorrect placing, for with care the two
standard alphabets and figures produced parts can be lined up again and the result-
in a variety of styles for use by printers, ing crack will be barely visible. The sur-
graphic designers, engineers, and face on which the marking is to be
draughtsmen, and their use in modelling applied must be free of any blemishes
has been to complement the water-slide including plastic shavings or raised
type of marking. Typical uses include paint, as when the marking is rubbed
serial numbers, small codes, and unit such blemishes will show through. Each
markings as well as walkways, where symbol must be cut from the sheet and
black stripes are much better then an held with tweezers in the exact position
unsteady hand and black paint, camera it is required, the rubbing is then carried

ports and foot holds when black dots out gently starting from the centre and
always produce and repeat symmetrical working outwards. A ball-point pen or
circles much better than even the most paintbrush handle is the best tool, and
skilled painter can. rubbing strokes should be even and in
Coloured circles and dots can also be one direction. As the marking detaches
used for minute roundels on 1:144 scale itself from the carrier sheet, it will
models where red, white and blue ones appear to lighten in colour and it soon
are superimposed on each other. These becomes evident when it is completely
and many other of the normal commer- free of its carrier sheet. Before applying

cial sheets have a vast potential as far as such markings experiment first on an old
modellers are concerned, but about eight model or scrap plastic by using the vari-
years ago a Canadian modeller, Alan ous company trade marks and patent
Breeze, designed and had produced by numbers, etc, that border the edges of
Letraset, sheets of markings specifically the sheet, by doing this there is no wast-
for use by aircraft and AFV modellers. age of valuable markings but useful
The success of Mr Breeze's initiative experience is gained. Some of the very
was such that within a three year period small numbers and letters require a lot of
over 45 sheets of different markings practice to ensure that they are all
came on to the market, and although iined-up and equally spaced, and some
they appeared to fade out and became modellers advocate that it is best to rub
hard to obtain, they are now back in full this type of marking on to a water-slide
production and stocked by most mail sheet then use the resultant composed
order specialist shops. A major advan- serial as a water-slide transfer. My view
tage of this type of transfer is that there is that this entirely defeats the object of

is no carrier film, so once the marking the dry transfer and is admitting defeat at
has been applied to the model and rub- not !;ieing able to apply them correctly.
bed down with a soft pencil or ball-point To help in the correct alignment of small
pen, there is no unsightly surround to markings, which is the area where most

88
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

becomes more universally accepted, and

sheets are produced in greater quantity,
thus bringing their price nearer that of
the more conventional water-slide type,
they will grow in popularity. In fact one
Italian manufacturer introduced this
type of decal sheet in his kits during 1975
Masking tape to obtain straight baseline so he may well become the first pioneer
in this field.

The quality of all sheets of markings,

whether of the water-slide or rub-down
variety, has now reached a stage that will
be difficult to surpass. The many hun-
dreds of subjects that are now available
— from simple black codes to multi-
coloured unit insignia —
are beginning to
create a situation for the modeller where
the choice of subject depends a great
deal on the aesthetic appeal of the mark-
ings available. This in turn often leads
him to produce several models of the
Line up dots on Letraset sheet on same type which creates more business
masking tape base then gently rub for the kit manufacturer, who is thus
down letters and figures with pencil possibly influenced into considering
or biro models that can be finished in a variety
of schemes. The end result is that
everyone is happy. A far cry from the
problems appear to occur, all that is day when, if the modeller wanted to
required a very fine pencil line drawn
is finish his model in a scheme different to
on the model with a 3B pencil which is that supplied on the decals in the kit, he
used as a base line, when the markings had no choice other than to resort to
are applied this line can be removed by a hand-painting.
gum eraser or artist's putty rubber. An The variety of decals that are now
alternative is to mark the base line with a available has led to a decline in the art of
strip of masking tape which is simply hand-painting of markings; although this
peeled off once the rub-down markings is not a skill that every modeller has or

are applied. can cultivate, it is not as difficult as at

Dry markings are, in most cases, first it may seem. The necessity to
much thinner than the water-slide vari- hand-paint on small scale models is now
ety and therefore produce a much more more or less non-existent, on larger scale
authentic 'painted on' look; they are not models however, there is still a lot of
affected by age and once applied will not scope for those who wish to try this
peel off. On new sheets the markings method as the choice of alternative
come off very easily but the longer a markings, especially in 1:32 and 1:24
sheet is kept in storage the harder it is to scales, is fairly limited. In many respects
remove the symbols, the answer to this this is particularly fortunate as with
particular problem is to carry out a pre- models of such size hand-painting does
releasing exercise. To do this gently rub not present the problems that are
the surface of the carrier film over the encountered in smaller scales.
marking before it is applied to the model, The three 'Ps', Planning, Practice and
but do not carry out this initial rubbing Patience, that are so essential in all
too hard otherwise there is a danger of aspects of modelling, are just as applic-
removing the symbol and transferring it able when it comes to hand-painting
to the backing sheet. A few light strokes alternative markings. If a study is made
with the selected rubbing tool will be of national insignias and styles of code
enough to loosen the symbol and it is letters, it will be quickly appreciated that
then applied in the normal way. It is safe in most cases these are fairly symmetri-
to say that rub-down transfers have a cal which means that masking tape and
greater following among more experi- film can be used to achieve accuracy and
enced modellers, but as the technique straight lines. The first step, after select-

89
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Culling roundels from Frisk tape for spraying with airbrush

First mask: spray Second mask: cover

centre white centre, spray exposed
area blue

Third mask: centre End result: a perfect

hole sprayed red painted roundel

inga suitable set of markings, is to obtain a practical exercise be realised just

it will
as much reference material as possible, how simple it is. The
essential points to
as all national insignia and code letters watch for are accuracy in cutting the
are painted to conform to set standards templates and discs, and precise placing
laid down by the air force concerned. of these on the model and in relation to
Such books as those published by Pat- each other, the latter is not difficult if the
rick Stephens Ltd in the Airfix Guide centre point of the roundel is marked as a
series, the Harleyford books on mark- small dot on the initial white disc, and
ings, and many others, all contain com- this is used as a datum point for the loca-
prehensive details of such markings and tion of the others.
their correct proportions which can eas- United States stars and bars are
ily be transferred to the scale in which painted in exactly the same way, starting
one is working. with a template through which is painted
To paint a three-colour RAF
roundel a white disc with longitudinal arms. The
start by cutting a template from Frisk star and white areas of the bars are also
masking film which is the exact diameter cut in template form and placed over the
of the roundel, place this in position on white to mask it, then the exposed area is
the model and spray paint the area left painted blue. The red bars that appear on
exposed through the template, matt the white longitudinal arms can be
white. While the paint is drying cut out a painted in the same way or alternatively
disc whose diameter is the same as the marked with red Letraset stripes. This
total area of white that will be exposed, technique can be applied to any marking
or in other words, the inner diameter of if the sequence of discs and templates is
the blue, and when the paint is dry, place worked out beforehand.
this disc over the exact centre of the still Large fuselage or underwing codes can
white disc. Nowpaint the circle of white also be painted by using templates cut
that is exposed blue and remove the from Frisk film but in many cases masking
centre masking disc. You will now have tape can be used equally as successfully
a roundel that has the correct proportion especially in painting letters with straight
of blue but with the whole centre white. edges. Unless you have a particularly
Finally cut-out a circle the exact steady hand, serials and other very small
diameter of the red, place this in position markings should be avoided and the cor-
and apply the red paint. rect size Letraset or Blick markings
This may sound complicated but once used, but it is possible to paint these
it is transferred from the written word to providing the paint used is kept thin and

90
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

a good quality brush with a fine point is planes look incomplete simply because
used. There really is nothing that can be the builder has not added the rigging.
written to advise on this type of painting Some so-called experienced modellers
as it is something that you can either do who readily decry others' work because
or you can't, and only experimentation in their opinion the colour tone is wrong,
and practice will indicate the extent of or the wheels oversize, will argue that on
your limitations. Once having found a 1:72 scale model of a biplane such as
these, always work within them and the Tiger Moth or Sopwith Camel, it is
never, never be tempted to try some- not possible to reproduce rigging to scale
thing that you know you cannot do on a and if it were such rigging would be invis-
model that you have spent hours work- ible therefore it is best to leave it off, and
ing on, for it is very easy to overstep the are really only admitting their own inabil-
mark and spoil all the work that has gone ity to even try to add this essential ingre-
before. dient. In some respects their argument is
One subject that has so far not been correct inasmuch as scale rigging on
discussed and which may appear odd to small models would to all intents and
introduce in a chapter that is primarily purposes be invisible, but in my opinion
concerned with painting, is the rigging of this is one area where a deviation from
biplanes. However, this part of model- scale can only enhance the finished pro-
ling very much reflects the authenticity duct. Naturally the use of correct mater-
of the completed model and is consi- ial will disguise the over-scale effect
dered to be in its rightful place in a chap- which is exaggerated when rigging is
ter covering authentic finishes. added using completely unsuitable mat-
There is a magic about biplanes that erial such as ordinary domestic cotton.
makes them attractive to most model- However, those who have used such
lers, but the quantity of kits produced material should be commended for at
would suggest that such modellers are least trying to obtain authenticity.
not the younger ones to whom kit man- There are many ways of rigging a bi-
ufacturers look for the majority of their plane and every modeller eventually finds
sales. There is no doubt that assembling the one that suits him best, usually after
a biplane from a kit can present the much experimentation, and thereafter
young and inexperienced with many sticks rigidly to it. Unfortunately there
problems, especially when it comes to are no short cuts and the following
painting, alignment of the various struts, methods are three of those that have
and rigging. The latter is essential if the proved successful after a period of trial
model is to capture the air of the original and error, highlighted by success and
and it is sad to see many well-built mod- marred by despondency. Those who
els which may be forming part of a col- aspire to concentrate on biplanes must
lection marred bv the fact that the bi- be prepared to cultivate rigging skills by

This Bleriot Monoplane by Paul Roeder from the Impact 1:48 scale kit would look very
incomplete modeller had not taken endless pains
if the to add all the rigging (photo
Kunze).

91
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

constant practice during which they will

also experience various levels of elation.
The method of using cotton tied to
struts is one that must be deprecated
since this does not capture the delicacy
of rigging which, if transferred to the
model, is over halfway towards winning
the battle.
If instead of cotton, thin nylon fishing
line is used, several of the problems with
ordinary domestic cotton will
immediately be overcome. Such fishing
line is obtainable in various grades or The heat-sireiched sprue rigging on this
strengths and the finest available should Albatross Dl is overscale but makes the
be looked for when starting out. The size model look more authentic than it would
is, of course, dictated by the scale of the have if it had been omitted altogether. The
model, but even on 1:32 scale biplanes it model is made from parts from the Revell
is easy to overestimate the size of rigging DU and E HI kits. Model by Paul Roeder.
material used and end up with a clumsy
looking model. fined space is impossible.
The biggest problem in the use of Once the glue has set the excess nylon
nylon fishing line is fixing it to the model protruding from the wing surfaces should
so that it stays taught. The best method be cut off flush with a very sharp model-
is to drill a small hole with a dental or ling knife and, as these areas have not
watchmaker's drill at the base of the yet been painted, any slight blemishes
strut rightthrough the wing surface, pass can be removed by careful sanding. This
a length of nylon through this, then with method of rigging must be done with
a toothpick apply a quick drying epoxy very great care as it is easy to end up
glue such as 'Five minute Devcon", into with unsightly 'blobs" on the wing sur-
the hole and around the nylon. When the faces where the material has been
cement has set hard, pass the other end cemented in position, and sagging rigging
of the nylon through another hole drilled if the glue has not been allowed to set
at its locating point and once again apply hard before the ends of the nylon were
epoxy glue, making sure that the nylon is released.
held tight whilst the glue sets. The The most successful alternative, at
necessity of using rapid drying cement least as far as I am concerned, is the use
becomes obvious as it is time consuming of stretched sprue or very fine wire.
to sit for long periods simply holding Sprue costs nothing as it comes in every
nylon taut, furthermore, however careful plastic kit, and with practice can be
you are, if the nylon is constantly mov- stretched into very fine filaments. Clear
ing whilst you are holding it, the glue will or silver/grey sprue is best for rigging on
not stick it firmly enough, slow drying 1:72 scale models but on larger scales it
glues therefore accentuate such move- is better to heat stretch flat strips of plas-

ment and cause considerable headaches. tic card as the cross-section is then more
The epoxy glue must be applied spar- in keeping with actual rigging wires
ingly and to the outer extremities of the which do have an aerofoil section. The
drilled holes, these will be in the top sur- method to employ is to stretch several
faces of the top wings and the bottom lengths of sprue or plastic card to as
surfaces of the lower wings. The evi- uniform a cross-section as possible then
dence of the holes in the lower surfaces place them aside for future use. Now
of the top wings and the top surfaces of take a pair of dividers and measure the
the bottom wings —
which will already distance between two attachment p' ints,
have been painted —
is hidden by filling fix a length of sprue on to a flat surface
them with a touch of Polyfilla added with with Sellotape strips, and measure off a
a cocktail stick and touched in with the length with the dividers which are
correct colour paint once it has set. already set at the distance needed for
Ordinary body putty or Green Stuff can this particular piece. Using a sharp mod-
be used but this does not usually dry as elling knife cut the sprue to the exact
smoothly as Polyfilla and attention from dimension indicated by the dividers,
wet and dry or sandpaper in such a con- then holding it with a pair of tweezers.

92
 AUTHENTIC FINISHES AND SPECIAL EFFECTS

add the minulest spot of polystyrene straightened first. To do this cut off a
cement at each end. Remember that this length which is approximately the size
adhesive is designed to melt plastic so it needed, then roll this on a smooth metal
is that only the smallest possible
vital surface or a sheet of glass, with a flat
amount is used. Carefully insert the piece of wood. This should be about four
length into position making sure that any inches wide and half an inch thick and is
paint that is present at the attachment rolled over the wire with the flat of the
points has first been cleaned off. An hand making sure that at no time does
alternative to applying cement to the the wire creep out around the edges.
ends of the cut sprue, is the use of liquid PVA glue will hold the wire in position,
cement applied with a small brush at the but if a wire with sufficient spring ten-
attachment points, but the warning made sion in it is selected, it will stay in posi-
earlier applies equalK' to this form of tion without any form of adhesive.
adhesive. Another method that is inexpensive
White glue such as Reeves PVA and effective, but probabh requires the
Adhesive —
obtainable from art supply most practice, is the use of stretched
shops —
does not have the same proper- glue. Any rubber-based adhesive such as
ties as polystyrene cement and can be Uhu. Bostick or Humhrol Universal is

used as an alternative. Apart from the suitable. Squeeze a drop of the selected
fact that it does not melt plastic, another glue on to a clean piece of card or paper
advantage is that it dries transparent, but and use a pointed cocktail stick to pick
one disadvantage is that it takes longer to up a small portion of it. Make sure that
set and it is therefore easy to disturb rig- there are no straggling ends, then care-
ging that is already in place when adding fully place the point of the cocktail stick
additional strips. at the first fixing point and ver\' gently
Thin hard wire, not fuse wire, is move it towards the other attachment
perhaps the ideal way of representing point. A very fine filament of glue will
rigging. But this is hard to obtain and stretch between the struts and can be cut
requires a higher level of skill if it is to with a sharp knife at the point where it is
look right on the completed model. Suit- attached. As this type of adhesive "goes
able wire can be obtained at some radio off very quickly, a fresh amount is
component shops where it is sold for needed for each piece of rigging. This
winding resistance coils, another source method produces extremeK fine rigging
of supply is the local car breaker's yard, v\ ith the advantage that is is very easy to

where it might be possible to obtain an replace should it become broken. It is

ignition coil which will supply enough difficult to stretch glue over very long
wire for years of biplane modelling. The distances so it is best to use this method
method of application is similar to the only on small-scale biplanes. One other
one used for sprue, but the wire must be advantase of this method which is hard

Another fine model from Paul Roeder, this 1:72 scale Bristol F2B from the Airfix kit
captures the feeling of the original almost perfectly. Standards such as this are not beyond
any modeller who is prepared to practice and persevere (photo Kunze).

93
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

to produce with the others, is the use of

double rigging wires. If a close look is Drill holes adjacent to struts, draw
taken at some bipkines it will be seen nylon or other suitable thread through,
that some of the interplane rigging is in knot end and seal with epoxy. When
fact comprised of two wires running firmly set trim off exposed ends
parallel to each other from the same
attachment point. By using a cocktail
stick with the end cut to a flat and a 'V
cut in this flat, it is possible to pick up
two sections of glue and stretch them at
the same time between the selected
points. This is aiming for a very high
level and should not be attempted until
the basic method has been mastered.

With any type of rigging always start

with the wires that are near the centre of Wire or stretched sprue cut to exact
the wings and work outwards, this stops sizeand held between struts with a
damage occurring to wires already touch of epoxy glue or liquid poly-
attached since you will always be work- styrene cement
ing away from them.
Rigging diagrams are not often
included with kits but box art usually
gives a more or less accurate guide to
their positioning, and of course if a refer-
ence source is being used this is almost
certain to show all the rigging that is
applied to the particular aircraft being
modelled. The complete rigging of a 1 :72
scale biplane is next to impossible,
unless you are a real expert, but even the
addition of just the basic elements will im- As experience is gained and the habit
prove the model. Obviously the methods of looking at aeroplanes at every oppor-
outlined can be used on other aircraft to tunity to seek ideas for adding additional
represent aerials, control wires, under- detail is cultivated, the feeling of the
carriage bracing, etc, it is also possible to actual aeroplane will be transferred to
combine the methods on one model, the model, and this itself will go a long
selecting each one to suit the part that is way towards capturing a truly authentic
being rigged. appearance.

94
 seven

Conversions
Although the number of aircraft kits is the Matchbox Wellington Mk X include
constant! \ increasing there are certain alternative parts — in this case a differ-
types that are highl\ uniikeK' ever to be ent nose for the Mk XIV — and these
produced in kit form, but their omission should also be kept for future adaptation.
from a collection will leave serious gaps There are now a variety of conversion
in continuity, especially if the theme of kits available which take a lot of the hard
the collection is historical. It therefore work out of building, the use of which
often becomes necessary for the serious often results in the replacement by them
modeller to look towards existing kits of kit components, so here again there is
with a view to converting them to either another source of useful ready moulded
different marks of the aircraft con- components.
cerned, or using parts which can be mod- Gradually the parts collected will
ified to produce an entirely different type accumulate to such a degree that it is
of aeroplane. well worthwhile storing them in a special
Generally speaking conversions can box, or boxes, categorised as to their
be split into two categories; those which use. A good way to do this is to purchase
can be done from the basic kit using from a chain store, hardware shop or
parts that are scratch-built from wood or motor accessory shop, a small cabinet
plastic card, and those that use parts with several perspex drawers. The com-
from a variety of kits in addition to addi- ponents collected can then be placed in
tional scratch-built components. Natur- their own drawer, for example one can
ally the first is the least expensive and to be earmarked for canopies, another for
a certain extent easier than the second, drop tanks, another for wheels and so
but it does not enable every type of on. This immediately puts an end to
model that one wants to be collected. what can be a long rummage through a
The second can be expensive if you set discarded kit box into which all spare
out to buy three or four kits just to obtain parts have been confined, looking for a
small pieces, but there are two ways of part you know you have but can't quite
looking at this: one is that relatively remember exactly where it is.
speaking even the cost of three kits is not Most major conversions are limited to
that expensive if an otherwise inob- 1:72 scale mainly because this is the
tainable model is to result, and the other most popular scale for large collections,
is that the parts that remain when those but also because there are more kits pro-
that are required for the conversion have duced in this scale than any other.
been taken, will be useful additions to Another factor that must also be consi-
the spares box which is an essential part dered is the cost. Few modellers will
of the avid converter's equipment. think twice before buying a 25p kit with
The current tendenc\' to include parts the intention of cutting it up. but it is
in basic kits that enable the modeller to another story when it comes to a large
produce two or even three versions of scale kit that might cost several pounds.
the model depicted, is one that automati- For this reason the examples described
cally gives a start in building up a collec- have been confined to inexpensive kits,
tion of spare parts. Quite often such where major work has been necessary,
parts will be limited to a variety of but more expensive ones have been used
underwing and fuselage stores, but it is to illustrate just what can be done if you
surprising just how useful these will feel so inclined and tackle the problems
become as with thought they can be in a logical way.
turned to a variety of uses far removed The addition of parts omitted from a
from their original intention. Kits such as kit. such as flap guide rails, cockpit detail

95
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

and the like, is not converting hut merely The outboard wing panels, although
improving the basic kit. But if. for exam- had the same basic outline
far too large,
ple, long span wings, a modified fuselage shape of the Brigand's, and the engines
and four-bladed propeller are added to a were almost exactly right. thereforeI

Airflx Bf 1()9G to make it into a high earmarked these parts and continued
altitude version of this famous German looking for others from different kits.
fighter, then it is correct to say that the This search proved fruitless so decided I *
kithas been converted from one mark to to use as much of the Freighter as pos- I

another. It is as well to make this seem- sibly could. In the end the Brigand's
ingly obvious point clear right from the fuselage was carved from balsa from
start as on many occasions when I have which a plastic card shell was moulded.
been invited to judge modelling competi- The complete wings were made from the
tions basic kits, with a few refinements Freighter's by first cutting cardboard
added, have been included in incorrect templates of the Brigand's then using
categories simply because the builder these to mark out the shape on the
thought that he was carrying out conver- Freighter's, the tailplanes were also
sion work. made from the Freighter's and the same
Every modeller who has some experi- kit provided the wheels. Fins and rud-
ence of converting kits has his own way ders were cut from plastic card and the
of researching the basic subject and cockpit was moulded using the already
deciding which kits are likely to produce described male and female mould
the parts he will need. One pitfall in this method. The final result was a model of
respect is to consider the models availa- an important RAF aircraft that it seems
ble first and what it might be possible to unlikely will ever be produced in kit form
convert them to. In cases where one air- (other than as a vac-formed model), for
craft has been developed from another, the outlay of only one kit.
such as the Nimrod from the Comet, or In the example quoted the balsa wood
various marks of aircraft differ in major fuselage was used as a mould simply
or minor components, such as the Can- because the model was intended to be
berra. Spitfire, P-47 and P-51, Lancaster entered in an IPMS competition and this
Mk and Mk II, this method is obvious
I society deprecates the use of wood in the
and will work. But my own method is to proportions had used it. This is a
I

study as much material as can find on

I somewhat short-sighted policy as the
an aircraft want to make then break
I judges should really be concerned with
down the major parts into sections that I the skill of the modeller in producing a
might be able to obtain from kits. Only realistic model rather than the materials
then do take the various kit manufac-
I he chooses to use. However, it is one of
turers* catalogues or products and com- their rules and must be adhered to until
pare my thoughts with reality. It is sur- such time as it is rescinded if you are
prising just how effective this method competition-minded. make this point
I

can be and it was one that used when

I I because in a lot of my conversion I use
constructed a model of a Bristol Brigand balsa or other wood as I consider it a
for the 1973 Airflx Mai^azine Annual. much better and easier to work with
After studying drawings and photographs material than anything else.
of the Brigand broke the components
I If you decide to make conversions the
needed into fuselage, mainplanes. major part of your hobby, long term
engines, tail unit and cockpit. As the air- planning will pay dividends as it is often
craft came from the Bristol stable the possible to select several models that can
firststep was to look at kits that were use components from the kits you have
available of this manufacturer's aircraft. to buy. An example of this is the use of a
The Beaufighter was looked at and Halifax and Lancaster to produce two
quickly discarded as, apart from the alternative models of these famous bom-
radial engines, which had possible poten- bers. The radial engines from the Halifax
tial, the rest of the components came can be adapted to fit the Lancaster to
nowhere near what needed. Similarly
I produce the Mk II version and the rest
the Blenheim and Beaufort also fell by of the Halifax kit modified to make the
the wayside, then came across the Air-
I Mk or Mk II Series or I A versions
I I

fix Bristol Freighter, and it became w,ith in-line engines and new rudders.
immediately evident that this model The Merlin engines left over from the
would provide the material needed. Lancaster kit will come in useful if you

96
 CONVERSIONS

want to make the Miles M20 described with the Royal Air Force on October 1

later, or a Mk II F Beaufighter. 1969 with Strike Command which

The examples that now follow will absorbed Coastal Command in name if
give an idea as to just what can be not in spirit and tradition.
achieved and many of the techniques can As Airfix have a Comet IV in their
be adapted to any type of conversion in Skyking range of airliners the basic mat-
any scale. By careful selection of the erial is available to produce a small-scale
subject, adequate research, a knowledge model of this very important aeroplane,
of available kits, and patience in over- so this conversion falls into the first
coming problems, a whole new aspect of category mentioned earlier in this chap-
modelling aircraft will open its doors to ter whereby a kit of one aircraft is used
you, and you may well find that you will inconjunction with scratch-built compo-
soon become one of the 'converted'. nents to produce an entirely different
model than can be made from the origi-
Hawker Siddeley Nimrod nal kit parts.
Comparison of the Nimrod with the
1:144 scale Comet shows that the major change is to
The Nimrod is the first land-based the fuselage where an additional 'bub-
four-jet maritime reconnaissance aircraft ble', housing the weapons bay and other
to enter serviceanywhere in the world equipment, has been added to the origi-
and can trace origins back to the de
its nal pressure cabin.
Havilland Comet airliner. The first two The step is to cement strips of
first
prototypes were in fact modified from plastic card behind the windows that are
Comet airframes and fiew within two not required, these being clearly shown
months of each other, the Spey-engined on the drawings. The length of the kit
version taking to the air on May 2.^ 1967 fuselage also has to be reduced by 24 mm
and the Avon-powered version on July so a section of this length is cut out of the
31 the same year. Packed with highly fuselage, the first cut being 5 mm aft of
sophisticated radar aids, the Nimrod the door on the starboard side (part 4).
represents the very latest in anti- Before cementing the shortened nose to
submarine warfare and entered service the other two halves make sure that the

An RAF Nimrod of No 206 Squadron, RAF Kinloss, observing a Russian guided missile
destroyer in the Orkneys area (MoD).

97
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

plastic window blanking strips are secure lage underside and hold them in place
and that weight is inserted in the extreme with strips of Sellotape at the front and
nose. Cement the two doors (parts 1 and rear, but do not cement them in place at
3) in position, then cement together the this stage.
four parts that form the fuselage shell, Now select a soft piece of balsa wood
ensuring that the nose lines up correctly and trim this until it is the same width as
with the rear section. If the cuts made the fuselage and 18 cm long, place it on
when the 24 mm section was removed the underside of the fuselage and with a
were executed with care, there should be pencil mark the curvature of the bottom
no problems. But if the saw was not kept line of the fuselage from the nose to 35
vertical then the nose will tilt up or down mm aft of the wing root. Remove the
depending on which way you allowed the surplus wood above the marked line until
saw to move. If this has happened the the block fits snugly along the fuselage.
only remedy is to add a circle of plastic To obtain a good fit it will be necessary
card strip around the inside circumfer- to slightly hollow out the top surface of
ence of the fuselage parts, then fill any the block so that it follows the fuselage
resulting gap with body putty. cross-section. Once the block has been
While the fuselage is setting cement roughly carved to shape and fits around
the two parts of the wings (15 and 16) the wing sections, the wings can be
together but leave off the jet pipes (parts removed and work carried out on them.
19, 20, 21, and 22). The wings must be In addition to the lengthened span it is
extended in span, so to give a bigger area also necessary to widen the jet engine
for the adhesive file the cross-section of intakes, add fuel vent pipes at the tips,
the tips flat, then cement plastic card to wing fences, and the long-range fuel
each one. When this has dried hard it can tanks. The intakes are enlarged by using
be shaped as shown on the plan. Before a small file to remove plastic around the
going too far with the wings place them intake lips; this is a delicate operation
in position in their cut-out on the fuse- which must be done carefully if the

The mighty Nimrod as converted by the author from the Airfix 1:144 scale Comet kit.
The work, which is detailed in the text, is very extensive but the resulting model is worth
all the trouble. The aerials are from stretched sprue as are the fuel vent pipes seen at the
wingtips (photo by John Carter).

98
99
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

symmetry of the intakes is to be

retained, and constant checking against
the drawings is a must. Once satisfied
that the intakes are correct, holes are
drilled between the inner and outer ones
on each wing, and also outboard of the
outer engines. The outer holes are then
filled with clear sprue which is filed to
the leading edge contours and polished
to represent the aircraft's landing lights.
The fuel tanks and other parts can be
added after the wings are fitted to the
fuselage but their assembly will be
described at this stage. Vent pipes are
nothing more than stretched sprue
cemented to the extended tips and
sanded at their leading edges to blend
into the wing surfaces. The wing fences
are cut from 10 thou plastic card and held
in place with liquid cement. To obtain
the correct shape of these where they fit
the wings, cut a slot into a piece of car-
tridge paper and slide this over the wings
until it is in the position the fences are to
occupy. Hold the paper as vertical as
possible and mark the curvature of the
wing aerofoil on it with a hard pencil,
slide the paper off the wing and cut the
curved bottom surface with a sharp
knife. Use the cartridge paper as a tem-
plate to transfer the shape to the plastic
card then draw the rest of the wing fence
before cutting it out. The result should
be a perfect fit that will not require any
filling.
The tanks are made from similar com-
ponents taken from the spares box. those
on the model shown coming from an Air-
fix Harrier. If you have not yet accumu-
lated enough spares and do not wish to
purchase a Harrier just to obtain tanks,
they can be carved from 8 mm dowelling.
It is necessary to modify the tanks so

that they fit the Comet's wings and the

inboard fairings are made from plastic
card. Any gaps are filled with body putty
which is also used to ensure a smooth
fairing into the wing surfaces. The tanks
are completed by adding vent pipes and
small bumpers from sprue. The star-
board tank has the front section removed
and replaced by a transparent cone to
cover the searchlight. This part is made
by making sure that the front section is
removed accurately with a vertical cut. it
is then firmly cemented with Devcon or

Araldite to a cocktail stick and allowed

to dry.
Once this part is secure on the cocktail
stick, reduce its diameter to allow for the

100
 CONVERSIONS

thickness of the clear sheet by even

sanding with wet and dry used wet. Now
drill a hole in a spare piece of fairly thick
balsa sheet through which the nose cone
will pass. Pin a sheet of clear acetate
over this hole and heat it under the grill
until it is soft, then plunge the cone
through this and you will have moulded a
clear cover that is trimmed to size whilst
the cone is still inserted, the clear cover
is then cemented in position with PVA
glue. To simulate the searchlight wrap a
piece of silver paper from a sweet wrap-
ping or cigarette packet around a short
piece of sprue, and push this into the
tank before the clear cone is cemented in
A Comet IVB cockpit interior (photo by position.
Ian Wallace). Compare this with the earlier New jet pipes are made by either
shot of a Bulldog instrument panel. wrapping 10 thou plastic card around a

Nimrod construction drawing

Remove section from Comet fuselage

New balsa under fuselage

 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

dowel to form a hollow tube which is block through the acetate. It took only a
then cut to the lengths needed, or cutting few moments to produce a dozen blisters
these from 4 mm
diameter Plastruct. which yielded three perfect examples.
The wings
are cemented into position Two of these are fitted over the first two
on the fuselage then the balsa block is windows from the nose on the port side,
also cemented into place using either and the other over the first window on
polystyrene cement or preferably an the starboard side.
epoxy glue. It is essential that the block The leading edge of the fin was sanded
is allowed to set really hard before it is fiat and a dorsal fin cut from 20 thou
carved and sanded to the shape of the plastic card was cemented into position,
lower fuselage contours. Pay particular final shaping being carried out after this
attention to getting the cross-sectional had set. The radome fitted to the top of
shape correct, especially at the nose and the fin was one half of another discarded
where it is faired into the rear fuselage. drop tank with the bottom being filled
Body putty is used to fair it into the with scrap plastic card and body putty.
fuselage but apply this carefully other- A sprue peg was inserted through the fin
wise the distinctive double bubble effect just aft of the leading edge and 7 mm
will be lost. The MAD (Magnetic below the radome. to give locating points
Anomoly Detector) boom at the rear is for the two aerials, the other ends of
made from two laminations of 20 thou which were cemented to similar pegs
plastic card with the front end cut in a inserted in the top of the fuselage. Other
'V to mate into the rear of the original aerials were added from stretched sprue
tail cone. and plastic card offcuts and the model
To complete the fuselage add the tail was completed by the addition of the
bumper from plastic card, fill the win- Comet's undercarriage, the nose oleo
dows with body putty, except those that requiring a new locating hole in the balsa
are still required, and add the blister underbelly.
windows on the port and starboard sides. The model was painted in dove grey
The latter are probably the trickiest part and white and the roundels came from
of the fuselage work and after a fruitless the same Harrier kit that had provided
search through the spares box 1 resorted the wing fuel tanks. The fuselage and
to moulding them from clear sheet. I did underwing serials came from a Letraset
this by pinning a sheet of acetate to a soft sheet.
balsa block, softened it under the grill, The resulting model is an attractive
then pushed the tip of a biro cap into the addition to anv collection of militarv air-

The distinctive shape of the Nimrod is visible in this picture from which it is easy to see its
close resemblance to the Comet airliner from which it was developed (photo by R. L. Ward).

lo:
 CONVERSIONS

Top A P2V-5 Neptune WX514 L-R of 210 Squadron photographed at Linton-on-Ouse.

This aircraft has the original flat canopy and large wing tanks but the nose turret has been
replaced by a clear canopy as provided in the Hasegawa kit (photo by R. L. Ward). Above
This photograph of WX506 of 236 Squadron clearly shows the modifications needed to
the nose and canopy. The large wing tanks and revised tail are also very evident (photo by
R. L. Ward).

craft and the work involved is not too RAF and to convert it back into the -5
difficult tackled carefully. The out
if it is version is a challenging task, for
and out beginner might run into one or although at first glance the work might
two problems but should be capable of appear minimal, this is not in fact so.
overcoming these. So the Nimrod is an In the immediate post-war years
ideal starting point for those who have Coastal Command operated Sunder-
tried one or two minor conversions and lands. Lancasters and Lend-Lease
want to take on a greater challenge with- Liberators and Fortresses. In an air
out running the risk of ruining an expen- force that was drastically reduced in size
sive kit. from its war-time strength, these proved
adequate until the borrowed aircraft
Lockheed P2V-5 Neptune were recalled and the demands of
NATO increased. In the early 1950s the
1:72 scale planned Lancaster replacement, the
Whilst the Nimrod represents the very Avro Shackleton, had not reached oper-
latest Maritime Reconnaissance aircraft ational status so a modern (for the
of the RAF, the Neptune is the same period) stop-gap had to be found. This
type of aircraft but from an earlier era. proved to be the Lockheed P2V Nep-
Although it is still in service with the tune which had first fiown in May 1945
United States Navy and serveral other as the XP2V-1 and had first made its
air forces throughout the world, it has presence felt in September 1946 when, in
long since passed from the RAF's inven- the hands of Commander Thomas D.
tory. Davies of the US Navy, had established
The Hasegawa kit of the P2V-7 is a a record for long distance non-stop dura-
much later version than that used by the tion flying of 55 hours 17 minutes during

103
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT I

Drawings have been reduced to 1:165 scale to fit the

page. Use scaling methods to obtain 1 : 72 scale.
Overall wingspan should be 17.2", new fuselage
length {excluding guns) 13.2".

Outline ofHasegawa kit fuselage showing necessary modifications

Fill seams and mask U

get circular window
Fill this window

Remove
Fill this window

Remove

Move radome back J 3mm to 13 mm

on bomb bay
first scribed line Modify kit
turret or
mould new one
Tank fins from plastic card

New flat canopy

Guns from sprue

New Emmerson
nose turret
Matt black on New shape tip tanks. See
forward section separate drawing

104
 CONVERSIONS

which it covered 11,326 miles. This

achievement brought an immediate order
Lockheed P2V-5 Neptune
worth over 16 million dollars from the
Aircraft drawn is WX504 US Navy and started the Neptune on an
illustrious career which is still continuing
A -H of 21 7 Squadron 1953
today, over 30 years since it first saw the
light of day.
In the spring of 1951 it was announced
that the RAF was to receive 52 aircraft
which were to be the P2V-5 version. The
intention was for Coastal Command to
use these until such time as the Shackle-
ton was available in sufficient numbers.
The first two aircraft arrived at St Eval
on January 13 1952 having been fiown to
Fillholes for jet engines on both wings
England by RAF crews who had been
receiving training on the type in Ameri-
not fitted to P2 V-5 version
ca. For the following five years the Nep-
tune served the RAF well, and although
during its service it was modified to later
standards by the removal of the nose tur-
ret and the fitting of the extended MAD
tail, it is the early version that is the sub-
ject of this conversion.
The cockpit area is assembled exactly
as the kit instructions and placed on one
side until the major modifications to the
A dd gunner 's canopy fuselage are completed, a lot of this
and new tail blister work having to be carried out before the
two halves are cemented together. Start
by cementing all the windows in place
but omitting the astrodome (part 84) and
the turret blanking disc (part 82). The
under fuselage radome is now removed
by cutting each half from the respective
fuselage halves using the moulded lines
immediately in front and at the rear of
the radome as guides. The horizontal
cuts which finally remove the moulding
from the fuselage are made along the line
of the bomb bay just below the ridge
which is moulded to the fuselage sides.
Yellow line around Now measure 13 mm from where the
aerial panel rear end of the radome was located,
which you will find lines up exactly with
the second row of moulded rivets on the
bomb bay doors. Cut along the rivet lines
on both fuselage halves and also the top
of the bomb bay line to remove a 13 mm
section, this section is then replaced
behind the nose gear door and behind
this the radome is relocated. These
operations have, in fact, moved the
Rear guns from stretched sprue. These were radome back 13 mm and at the same time
sometimes removed on actual aircraft shortened the weapons bay. If the work
is carried out with a fine razor saw and

Sea blue gloss overatl sharp knife, it will be found that the parts
fit easily into their new locations and a
White codes and serial minimum of filling will be needed.
The next step is to remove the two

105
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

blistersaft of the nose windows and

those located on the lower half of the Neptune P2V-5
fuselage behind the weapons bay. The
large blister situated under the rear
square windows on the underside of the
fuselage also has to be removed, and this
will leave a big hole that must be backed
with plastic card. Measure 60 mm
from
the end of the tail MAD fairing and cut
this off at this point with a vertical saw
cut.
The square windows on both sides at
the nose should now be covered with fil-
ler as should the small square window
immediately behind the cockpit on the
port side. Filler is also applied around
the joins of the square windows in the aft
fuselage below the leading edge of the
fm, but do not cover these completely.
The two fuselage halves should now
tKWC<
be cemented together, with the interior,
including the dorsal turret (parts 87 and
59), in place. Filler is now used to till the
gap where the large underside blister at
the tail was removed, and when this has
set hard, it is shaped to follow the line of
the lower fuselage. It is now very much a
question of patient work with wet and
dry to smooth all the filler as this must be
blended smoothly into the fuselage,
especially where it has been used to Note larger tanks

cover windows.
Once the work outlined on the fuse-
lage has been completed, a plastic card
blanking plate is cut to fit the hole at the
rear end where the MAD fairing was
removed and a suitable rounded cone fit-
ted in its place. On my model found 1

that a blister turret from an Aiifix B-29

filled the bill ideally although once it was
in position body putty was needed to
increase its diameter to match the fuse-
lage cross-section. A balsa block or plas-
ticcard laminations will do just as well if
your spares box has not yet reached the
proportions where it is likely to yield a
ready moulded part.
The nose ball turret presented some
problems but these were eventually sol-
ved by reshaping a nose turret from an
Airfix Dornier 217. This was too narrow
at the bottom, but once the flattened
windows had been rounded off the top
section fitted perfectly and body putty
came to the rescue in building up the
shape of the bottom half.
The rear gunner's cockpit was built up
from clear plastic cut from a kit stand
and cemented into place below the rud-
der. The final major operation on the

106
 CONVERSIONS

Red propeller
warning stripe

No roundels carried on under surfaces of wings

ister windows
both sides -

Serials in white are painted on wing under surfaces reading forward on starboard
wing, rearward on port

107
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

fuselage was the replacement of the kit's Mattel was used but all these parts can
main canopy, and here there is no alter- be produced equally as well by the male
native to moulding a new one. The and female moulding technique already
canopy provided is far too bulbous for mentioned several times elsewhere. Fins
the P2V-5 and cannot be modified, so for the tanks were made from 20 thou
carve a new low profile canopy from a plastic card and cemented in position
balsa block and mould it from thin ace- just prior to painting. The undercarriage
tate sheet. and all other components were added fol-
Before cementing the wing halves lowing the kit instructions, then the
together cement strips of plastic card whole model was given a coat of matt
over the holes into which the jet engines white which, as well as well as giving an
fit as these are not used on this particular ideal undercoat, also served to show up
model. Now assemble the wings and any areas that still needed attention from
engines as per the kit instructions, filling wet and dry.
the aforementioned holes with body Before applying any paint cut two
putty and leaving off the wingtip tanks. discs 3 mm in diameter from masking
The latter are entirely incorrect for the -5, tape and place these exactly central over
and once again correct ones must be the rear fuselage square windows. These
scratch-built. I did this by carving one are removed after all painting has been
balsa tank then moulded four halves on a completed and will produce the circular
Mattel vac-form tool. The balsa master windows that were in this position on
was cemented together again to form one the -5.
component and then cut off the nose
I The model was sprayed with Humbrol
which was used to mould the searchlight Sea Blue Gloss (HB9) to which was
cover for the starboard tank. Again the added a touch of black, and exhaust

The extensively re-worked Hasegawa Neptune detailed in the text. The canopy on this
model is the later 'blown' type whereas it should be the 'flat' type illustrated in the
drawings (photo by John Carter).

108
 CONVERSIONS

Another view of the Neptune in RAF service. The nose and tail have been considerably
altered and new tip tanks fitted. The underneath radome has been moved back 1 3mm.
Exhaust stains were a prominent feature of the Neptune however clean the rest of the
airframe might have been.

stains were applied around the engine

exhausts with a mix of Ught grey and
white. All markings came from Letraset
sheet Mil apart from the code letters
which were 'borrowed" from various
other sheets. The propeller warning
stripe around the fuselage came from the
kit markings as did the yellow aerial lin-
ing on the fin. Nose and tail guns were
added from stretched sprue which also
provided the various aerials that were to
be seen sprouting from different places
on this aircraft.

The mould and plastic moulding from it

for the Neptune wing tanks. The mould
is carved in balsa then used on a vac-form

machine. The plastic moulded half of the Neptune

wing tank as it comes off the vac-form
tool. The dimples are the area where the
holes for extracting the air from the
moulding chamber are drilled on the
moulding platform.

During their later years of service the

RAF's -5s were modified to a later stan-
dard by the fitting of the MAD tail, and
the removal of the nose turret which was
replaced by the transparent cone as
supplied in the kit.

109
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

If you wish to make this version mod- ers Attacker and Hawker Sea Hawk
ify the radome position as detailed, heralded the dawn of a new era of jet-
remove the large forward blister under engined aircraft designed for carrier
the but do not fill the front windows.
tail operations.
This version has the old larger wing In the United States of America simi-
tanks, also the circular rear windows and lar development was also taking place
the flatter cockpit canopy, so the work but there was a noticeable exception
needed is still considerable although the where a planned naval aircraft turned out
problems of the nose and rear gun posi- to become one of the USAF's greatest
tions are removed. fighters, the F-86 Sabre. It is not often
appreciated that this well-known
North American FJ-4 Fury machine was developed from a design
that was carried out to meet a US Navy
1:72 scale requirement of 1945.
For many years naval aircraft were The original design of the Sabre,
often modified versions of successful or known as the XP-86, stemmed from the
planned land-based aircraft, because the North American NAI34 which was a
economies involved in producing special straight-winged naval fighter ordered by
navalised designs for small production the US Navy on January 1 1945. The
runs were not viable. But as the carrier NAI40 evolved from this and appeared
grew in both size and importance, the with swept wings to finally materialise as
desirability of designing custom-built the FH86 Sabre. Meanwhile the NAI34
aircraft to operate from them became continued in straight-wing form and
apparent. became the XFJ-1 which eventually
Immediately after World War 2 the became the FJ-1 Fury. This aircraft
eyes of naval aviators turned to jet- entered service with the US Navy in
propelled aircraft and it was not long 1948 and Commander Pete Aurand made
before land-based aircraft were sprout- the first operational landings aboard a
ing arrestor hooks and undergoing sea carrier at sea when he put his FJ-1 Fury
trials. However, the necessity of specific on the flight deck of the USS Boxer on
designs based on naval requirements March 10 1948.
soon saw an end to the pre -jet age of This rotund but pleasing fighter, of
improvisation, and in England the Vick- which only 30 were built, deserves a

FJ4 Fury construction details

Build up fuselage contours with filler and Plastic card

sand to shape using templates from main additions
plan

New tailpipe

Wingfence
 CONVERSIONS

A Navy FJ-4 high over tJie Rockies. The modified shape of the fuselage is very evident in
this photograph as are the under fuselage dive brakes, refuelling probe and underwing
stores (phoio courtesy North American Aviation).

An FJ-4 of a Marine/Navy training unit. The extended nose wheel, taller fin/rudder,
modified cockpit and flight refuelling probe can all be clearly seen (Aviation Photo News).

place in US Naval aviation history and a F86F to an FJ-3 is not a difficult one and
very good 1:72 scale model is available proves an ideal primer for those wanting
of it in the Rareplanes range of vac- to add this to a collection alongside the
formed kits. From the basic design the FJ-1 before advancing to the much more
,

swept wing FJ-2 and FJ-3 were complex FJ-4 version.

developed, and although these have a Brief details of the FJ-3 conversion are
remarkably similar shape to the F-86, as follows, but these are by no means
they are in fact entirely different. An definitive and should be carried out in
interesting fact about the FJ-3 is that it conjunction with research from Profile
was powered by a licence-built version 42 and Ray Wagner's monograph. The
of the British Armstrong-Siddeley Sap- North American Sabre, published by
phire engine designated J65-W-2. The Macdonald's.
FJ-3 proved to be more successful than Start by detailing the cockpit as
either the FJ-J or FJ-2 and equipped 12 required and add some weight to the
naval squadrons. nose before cementing the fuselage
The conversion of the Hasegawa/Frog halves together. Fill the gun ports and

111
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

North American FJ-4 Fury 1:72 scale

Red warning triangle

on intake

Hook
Black /white stripes

Extended nose oleofrom plastic rod

Build up fuselage with plastic card laminations

112
 CONVERSIONS

^
Above The FJ-4 tailplanes. The one on the
right shows the parts added in plastic card
(light colour), while the one on the left has
been completed and painted with an
undercoat to show up any blemishes
which might need further attention. Below
Modifications to the Hasegawa F-86F to
convert it to the FJ-4 Fury. The top
decking has been added from plastic card,
the nose reshaped and the fin and rudder
extended and changed in outline. Bottom
The wings of the F-86F modified to the
shape of the wider chord ones used on the
FJ-4 Fury. Plastic card extensions have
been added to the trailing edges and
surface detail removed by sanding.

s modified outline of Frog/Hasegawa F-86F

clean up the tail area by adding a new tail

pipe from 10 thou plastic card rolled into
a tube. After sanding all the filler smooth
cut out new gun ports for the four 20 mm
cannons in the nose, then enlarge the
nose intake by building up the top line
with filler and plastic card strips. The
FJ-3 had no dihedral on the tailplanes so
the tongues on those in the kit must be
removed and the tailplanes cemented in
place so that they are horizontal when
viewed from the front. Wing fences are
added to the wings from 10 thou plastic
card, and the nose wheel oleo is
lengthened to 16 mm by replacing the kit
one with a new part made from Slaters
rod or stretched sprue. The arrestor

113
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

hook and aerials are added from sprue of the Fury, and some of these were
and the various equipment containers that soon to be replaced by the definitive ver-
appear as bulges around the tail area are sion, the FJ-4, on which design work had
fabricated from odd scraps of plastic. started in February 1953.
Since this is not the major conversion This aircraft was entirely different to
that we shall be concerned with, details those carrying the same name, having a
of colour schemes have been omitted as completely redesigned airframe, thinner
these are plentiful in the sources already wings of greater span and area, a mod-
mentioned. The resulting model will look ified and repositioned undercarriage, 50
sufficiently different to the original F-86 per cent greater fuel capacity, and a per-
to bring comment from the knowledge- formance that was about equal to its then
able, as well as paving the way for the contemporary, but land-based fighter,
FJ-4 version which is a major undertak- the Hawker Hunter. The FJ-4B had a
ing. strengthened wing and could be fully-
When production of the various FJ-3 equipped for the low level attack role as
versions ended in August 1953 over 20 well as LABS bombing, it also had
Navy and Marine squadrons were facilities for in-flight refuelling which
operating a variety of different versions extended its combat radius by 50 per

14
 CONVERSIONS

cent. This equipment was used when along the kit fuselage top decking to form
Furies of Marine squadrons VlVIA-212 a vertical keel. Cement the two fuselage
and 214 completed the first trans-Pacific halves together and insert the dive
crossing bv single-seat naval aircraft in brakes, then add the plastic card top keel
October 1958. to this. A half-circular bulkhead from
A of 222 FJ-4 and FJ-4B Furies
total plastic card is cut out and cemented at
were manufactured and these served into the rear of the cockpit opening and the
the early 1960s when they were relegated front of the new keel, which is cut at its
to second-line status and experimental rear end to follow the line of the existing
work. The Hasegawa/Frog F-86 is again fin. Similar section bulkheads are then
the basic kit but for this conversion it cemented along the length of the keel,
simpl> provides the various components and whilst these are setting a layer of
which must be modified in many ways. plastic card is added on the underside of
Major work is needed on the fuselage the fuselage to increase its depth even
as the FJ-4 differs in every respect to the more. The top of the nose intake forward
components supplied in the kit. of the windscreen is also increased in
The first step is to trace the complete size by the addition of plastic card lami-
outline of the FJ-4"s fuselage, including nations.
the cockpit canopy, from the plan on to a Plastic card is also needed to alter the
sheet of 20 thou plastic card. Cut out this line of the cockpit bottom edge, this
shape then place the kit fuselage halves being done by cutting two triangular
on it and draw around these, which shaped pieces and cementing them in
immediately reveals the extent of the place from the front of the windscreen
work involved. The shape left outside rear line to the keel behind the cockpit
the kit fuselage line is cut out and it will canopy position. Wait until all the plastic
be found that the top portion will mate card additions are dry, then fill all gaps

The FJ-4 Fury modified from the Frog/Hasegawa F-86F. The new shape of the fuselage,
wider wing chord and redesigned tail unit are all clearly visible (photo by John Carter).

15
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

with Green Stuff. When this has set hard one built from scraps of plastic card and
the fuselage is shaped by sanding with based on the design in the Airfix F-86D.
wet and dry, used wet, constantly check- While the initial plastic card additions
ing the cross sections for symmetry on to the fuselage are drying, attention can
both sides. This is a long hard slog and be turned to the wings and tailplanes.
constant filling will be needed in small These should first be sanded smooth to
areas from which the Green Stuff falls remove all traces of panel lines and con-
away, or is removed too vigorously. trol surfaces. They are now placed over
Cockpit details can be added after the the plan with their leading edges lined up
main fuselage work has been carried out with those on the drawing, it will now be
as the floor provided in the kit can be seen that the root chord is far too narrow
tilted sideways to enable it to be and the line of the join is incorrect.
inserted. The seat which comes in the kit Scribe the correct join line and cut out
is best discarded and replaced by a new triangular shaped pieces from 30 thou

Below The FJ-3 Fury which is a much simpler modification to the F-86F kit but forms a

useful stepping stone before proceeding to the FJ-4. Bottom A Rareplanes kit of the FJ-1
Fury which was the forerunner of the FJ-4 featured in the conversion. This kit and the
conversions detailed would enable the whole Fury family to be collected (photo courtesy
Rareplanes).

16
 CONVERSIONS

Top The prototype FJ-4 on an early test flight. Above An FJ-2 Fury just after roll out.
The stencil detail on this picture shows how many instructions are painted on the airframe
of a modern Jet aeroplane (photos courtesy North American Aviation).

plastic card to insert at the trailing edges. itsextremely tall fin and rudder, need-
The trailing edges of the kit wings are less to say this part is again fashioned
filed flat to give the plastic card inser- from plastic card, the existing fin having
tions agood key, and the additional parts a new leading edge and top added to it
are cemented in place. Once these have using this material. The fairing fitted
set hard it is back to the wet and dry for two-thirds up the fin is made from lami-
another session of hard work which nations of plastic card cemented either
reduces the plastic card to a correct side of the fin and filled with Green
aerofoil section. After the initial shape Stuff
has been obtained, filler is used in liberal Fuel dump fairings and wing fences
amounts to achieve a nicely faired sur- are added to the wings from 10 thou plas-
face that blends with the remaining kit tic card and the same material, combined
parts. During the work on the wings the with stretched sprue operating jack fair-
undercarriage locating holes are filled as ings, is used for the new under fuselage
are all the control surfaces. The tail- dive brakes.
planes are modified in exactly the same Fix all the components to the fuselage
way with plastic card additions produc- making sure that the tailplanes are hori-
ing the increased span and root chord. zontal and have no dihederal, and use
A noticeable feature of the FJ-4 was filler to close up any gaps that occur

117
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

between the wing joins and fuselage. ESCI, Microscale and Modeldecal
Once the wings have set measure 25 mm sheets.
from the fuselage centre-line to each
wing undercarriage location point and Miles M20
drill newholes to accept the oleos. The
moulded fork on the kit nose wheel oleo 1:72 scale
leg is cut off and its top drilled to accept In June 1940 there were grave doubts
a new leg which is made from stretched concerning the supply of equipment to
sprue or plastic rod, this leg having a the Royal Air Force to combat the
total length of 16 mm from the centre of expected onslaught of the Luftwaffe
the wheel to the point where it enters the prior to the anticipated invasion of the
fuselage. British Isles by the German army.
All control surfaces and panel lines are While Spitfire and Hurricane produc-
scribed into position using a scriber and tion had top priority and these aircraft
steel rule then lightly sanded to remove were being delivered to the squadrons at
any burrs. The flight refuelling probe a rate that had been hard to perceive
was detachable and may be fitted under only a few weeks before, the might of the
the port wing if so desired, this can be enemy was not underestimated and
made from stretched sprue but a better everyone realised that a tough task faced
alternative is one from a Frog BAC the nation as a whole. During this time
Lightning kit suitably reduced in length aircraft such as the Tiger Moth were
and fixed to a new plastic card pylon. being fitted with bomb racks to harass
The arrestor hook is recessed into the enemy troops and shipping, and there
underside of the fuselage and is made was even a plan to turn the Miles Master
from tlat strips of plastic card. advanced trainer into the fighter config-
The main undercarriage legs provided uration. It was during this period that the
in the kit are the wrong shape for the Miles Aircraft Company of Reading,
FJ-4 so once again sprue has to come to who were already supplying Magister
the rescue, wheels from the kit. with the and Master trainers, put forward the idea
central brake discs filed off, can be used of a heavily armed utility fighter con-
or alternatives which should be 10 in mm structed of wood that had the perfor-
diameter found in the spares box. The kit mance of its more complicated contem-
nose wheel is used exactly as it comes. poraries, but could be produced much
Apart from underwing tanks or mis- more quickly and from more readily
siles, all that remains —
apart from paint- available material.
ing — is the provision of the cockpit This idea had great appeal to Lord
canopy. There is really no way in which Beaverbrook who time was the
at that
the one from the F-86 kit can be used, so Minister of Aircraft Production, and he
it is necessary to carve a mould from gave immediate authority to Miles to
wood and produce a new canopy from proceed with their design.
acetate sheet. If the initial work in Nine weeks later, on September 14
adding the plastic card components to 1940. the prototype Miles M20. AX834
the fuselage was done accurately, the was fiown, thus proving the theory of
canopy should fit perfectly, if it was not quick production. The performance of
it will have to be rectified as to try and the aircraft also vindicated the com-
build up any unevenness between the pany's other claims as the dimunitive
opposite sides of the revised canopy bot- fighter, powered by a Rolls-Royce Mer-
tom line, will not be successful. So care- lin XX. proved to be faster than the Hur-
ful work and constant checking in the ricane and only marginally slower than
early stages will prevent disappoint and the Spitfire.
frustration when it comes to the last lap. The aircraft was designed by F. G.
The choice of finishes for the Fury is a Miles who sacrificed everything in the
wide one. most of them were finished in way of refinements in his quest for speed
the customary gull grey and white, and and easy production. Constructed of
adorned with colourful markings that wood with ply and fabric covering, the
seem to be a prerogative of the US Navy M20 had a fixed spatted undercarriage,
and Marines. Providing research is car- no hydraulics, and used many standard
ried out with existing decals in mind, it is components from the Master trainer. It
not too hard to find a scheme that can be wa^ armed eight .303 Browning
with
completed using bits and pieces from machine-guns fitted into the wings and

118
119
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

The 1:72 scale Miles M20 built as described in the text. The fuselage is from a Lancaster
engine nacelle and Me 110, while the wings are from the Frog kit of the Can net. Model
by Tony Woollett (photo by John Carter).

firing outside the arc of the three-bladed was put into quantity production or used
Rotol propeller, and could carry more operationally, it is an extremely interest-
ammunition for these than either the ing aeroplane and one well worth model-
Hurricane or Spitfire. It also boasted a ling.
greater range, quick interchangeability The Miles M20 is an ideal conversion
of its Merlin power egg, and had one of subject as it is one of those aircraft that is
the first all-round vision 'bubble" never likely to feature in the ranges of
canopies to be fitted to a fighter aircraft. any of the injection-moulded kit man-
Although it was as long as a Spitfire its ufacturers; also ideal as it enables a
it is
span was 2 feet 3 inches less, which gave worthwhile exercise in the cannibalism
itmore readily executed manoeuvres in of several kits to take place.
the rolling plane, a fact that had already Obviously there are many ways in
been recognised by German aircraft which a model of this aircraft can be
designers, and was to lead to the various produced and to some it will prove to be
clipped-wing versions of the Spitfire. an ideal scratch-building project, but for
As production of the Hurricane and the purpose of illustrating how seemingly
Spitfire managed to keep apace of the most unlikely parts can be utilised it
demand never became necessary to
it fits the bill perfectly.
proceed past the prototype stage with As the original was based on the Mer-
the M20, but a second prototype with lin power-egg used on the Lancaster and
catapult spools and a redesigned under- Beaufighter H, it is to this part that our
carriage was produced as a private ven- attention is first directed. The ideal
ture for shipboard use, this one being source of the engine and cowling is the
completed in April 1941. Airfix kit of the Lancaster. If you have
Although neither version of the 1VI20 become an avid converter it is very likely

120
 CONVERSIONS

that this kit will already have been forward part was recessed fiush into the
turned into a Manchester or Mk II Lan- fuselage.
caster so there is a ready supply of The tailplane and fin/rudder are cut
engines. If this stage hasn't been reached from 30 thou plastic card and sanded to
a Lancaster can be purchased primarily aerofoil section before having the
with the M20 in mind but with a view to elevator and rudder hinge lines scribed
carry out the conversion mentioned at a on them. These parts can now be
later date. cemented in position and faired into the
One of the Lancaster's outer engines general fuselage shape with body putty.
iscemented together then the rear part of Manufacture of the wings can be tack-
the cowling removed 27 mm from the led in several ways. The shape is such
front, the exhaust stacks are then filed that they do not present too great a prob-
off but the two scoops either side of the lem for a first attempt at scratch-
cowling left in place. building, as described in the next chap-
rear half of the fuselage is made
The ter, or they can be shaped from balsa
from either the Monogram or Aiifix kits wood. But on the model illustrated they
of the Bf 110, the components being were in fact produced from the wings of
cemented together then cut off aft of a Frog Fairy Gannet.
the cockpit opening, leaving a length, The wing shape is marked on to the
from the tail cone to the cut, of 102 mm. Gannet's wing panels which are then cut
Make sure that both the cuts on the out using a sharp knife. Cut slightly
engine nacelle and fuselage are vertical oversize then reduce to the final shape
then cement the two parts together. by sanding with a fairly coarse grade of
When sub-assembly is dry measure
this wet and dry paper. Use the same grade
32 mm from the front and mark the posi- paper to reduce the trailing edge to
tion of the windscreen, from this measure acceptable proportions, then finish with
a distance of 26 mm which marks the a lighter grade until a completely smooth
rear extremity of the cockpit opening. surface results. Ailerons are either cut
Now cut out the cockpit area and add out or scribed into the surface and the
internal detail bearing in mind that this gun ports are drilled into the leading
was greatly simplified when compared edges. Ammunition and gun access
with more elaborate contemporaries. panels are scribed on to the top surfaces
Body putty is used to fill any gaps before the port and starboard halves are
between the two components and the butt jointed at the correct dihedral angle.
whole fuselage is then sanded smooth. Once the wings have set, use them to
After this add the exhausts from mark their position on the fuselage then
stretched sprue keeping in mind that the with a razor saw and modelling knife cut

121
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Fin /rudder, also

tailplane, from
laminated plastic card
Lancaster engine pod Bubble canopy from spares
box or moulded

Cut at rear of
1 10 cockpit opening

Frog gannet wing shown shaded.

Miles M20 wing cut from outer panels

out a recess in this component to accept before committing your design to plastic
them. Fit the wings in place making sure card.
that they are aligned correctly with the The tail wheel is from the Bf 110 kit
tail, then make wing root fairings from 10 and the canopy can be either moulded or
thou plastic card which are cemented taken from a Tempest kit, the latter is
between the roots and fuselage. Allow not strictly accurate but is close enough
the model to dry for at least 12 hours, not to be too obtrusive. The propeller
then fill any gaps where the wings were and spinner are from the Lancaster kit.
fitted with body putty and use the same Finish is standard RAF trainer
material to merge the wing root farings camouflage of the 1940/41 period. Dark
into both the wings and fuselage. Earth and Green on the top surfaces,
The undercarriage spats are made and yellow on all undersurifaces. The
from laminations of plastic card with a 9 first M20 had a solid demarcation line
mm wheel from the spares box sand- halfway down its fuselage for a short
wiched between them, the drawings period but was then repainted so that the
show the Mk II or shipboard version, fuselage camouflaged extended to a
whereas the photographs are of the Mk wavy line along the top of the radiator
1, the main differences being the wheel duct and extending on the level of the
spats and catapult spools, so decide trailing edge.
which type of spats are to be made Markings from the spares box can be

pT
 CONVERSIONS

used but the fin flash which covered all example touse, becoming the first
of the lower section of the fin will proba- squadron tocarry out an operational
bly have to be hand-painted. The IVI20 patrol with the aircraft.
Mk II carried the number U 0228 aft of By early spring 1941 over 200 aircraft
the fuselage roundel on both sides, this had been delivered and the Luftwaffe's
being the experimental number allotted night bomber force was beginning to suf-
to the Miles factory by the Air Ministry. fer at the hands of their new antagoniser.
The description of this conversion has Prior to this 80 Beaufighters had been
been kept deliberately short as it will modified for use in the Middle East as
enable the reader to develop his own
techniques without feeling too inhibited The plastic card filler used to fill the gap
by instructions that might be translated left after the Hercules engine nacelle has
too literally. But with those that are given, been cut from the Beaufighter wings. The
plus the drawings, it should not be new moulded Merlin engines are fitted over
beyond the ability of even the fairly new- the inserted section (photo by John Carter).
comer to the hobby to produce a good
replicaof an interesting aircraft that
would no doubt have given an excellent
account of itself if it had been called
upon to do so.

Bristol Beaufighter IIF Mk

1:32 scale
On the night of November 19 1940 a
No 604 Squadron Beaufighter shot down
a Ju 88 thus recording the first of many
victories that were to be achieved in the
following years of the war by this pug-
nacious looking fighter.
But it was not solely as a night fighter
that the Beaufighter was to contribute to
the war effort, for it eventually equipped
52 operational squadrons, acquitting
Balsa moulds for the Merlin engines for the
itself well in every role it was called upon
1:32 scale Beaufighter conversion (photo
to undertake.
by John Carter).
The Beaufighter was the first twin-
engined night fighter that possessed suf-
ficient performance to turn to advantage
the early airborne interception radar
equipment first used in its predecessor
the Blenheim IF, and in so doing laid the
foundations from which the RAF's
highly efficient night fighter force
evolved.
Designed as a private venture, the
prototype was based on the Beaufort
torpedo bomber and first flew on July 17
1939, by which time the Air Ministry had
undertaken adoption of the aircraft for
which they issued Specification F 7/39. 1

The first major production version

was the IF and this was issued to the
RAF's Fighter Interception Unit at
Tangmere on August 12 1940 for opera-
tional trials. The following month Nos
25, 29, 219 and 604 Squadrons each
received one aircraft and on the night of
September 17-18 29 Squadron put their
,

123
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

long-range day fighters and they were duction of 12° dihederal to the tailplane
soon in operation with Nos 252 and 272 which was subsequently retrospectively
Squadrons. fitted to all versions.
The Beaufighter went from success to A Mk HF Beaufighter (T3032) was
success gradually replacing not only also fitted with an extended dorsal fin
obsolescent types within Fighter Com- which was later used on the Mk X which
mand but also the Blenheim F IVFs reverted to the Hercules engines.
used by Coastal Command. During its lifetime the aircraft was
These first versions were all powered subjected to many experiments, ranging
by the Bristol Hercules radial engine from the of twin fins and rudders
fitting
which was also used by the Stirling and to the use of Griffon engines, and a
Halifax heavy bombers whose demands proposed slim-line fuselage which in fact
for the engine prompted the design team never materialised. One armament
to consider an alternative power supply experiment involved the fitting of a Boul-
for the Beaufighter. As a result of this ton Paul four-gun turret behind the
the Rolls-Royce Merlin XX
was cockpit, but this reduced performance to
selected and the prototype Beaufighter, an unacceptable level and further
known as the Mk I IF. fitted with these development was abandoned.
power units made its debut on March 22 The Merlin XXs gave the Mk ilF a
1941. slightly better performance than the orig-
Over 400 of this type were built and inal Hercules-engined versions, but
used mainly in the night fighter role on when supplies of the latter became
home defence duties. Replacement of assured they continued to be used, so it
the huge radial cowled Hercules with the was only this mark of Beaufighter that
slim-line Merlins caused one or two saw service using the in-line liquid
problems as the reduced area forward of cooled Rolls-Royce power unit.
the centre of gravity adversely affected When the war ended the Beaufighter
the directional stability. One modifica- continued to serve with the RAF. mainly
tion that came about during investigation in the Far East, and the last squadron to
into this loss of stability, was the intro- use them as front-line equipment was No

Moulded halves for the 1:32 scale Merlin engines. The top is as it came from the mould
and the bottom has been cut to fit the wing section (photo by John Carter).

124
 o
^? s
^t3
1
^
42 ^
F^
s-

Cl
^ -C <i>
-C)

Is isT
o
1
53 s

125
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

45 who did not retire their aircraft until

February 1950 when another Bristol
design —
the Brigand —
replaced them.
The service life of this heavy twin did
not end then as some were converted for
use as target tugs and meteorological
reconnaissance aircraft, and soldiered on
until May 12 1960 when a TT 10. RD761.
made the last operational flight by a
Beaufighter from Selatar.
Although most conversions are con- Port wing only
fined to 1:72 models, mainly
scale
because the costs involved are low, there Aerials both wings
is no reason why some of the larger scale

kits that are now

available in quantity
should not be changed in similar ways to
their smaller bretheren. Since the initial
purchase price of a large scale model is
likely to be several times the amount one
would spend on an equivalent 1:72 or
smaller scale kit, some thought has to be
given before such a model is subjected to
drastic changes. It is important therefore
not to try anything too dramatic as a first
attempt and also to be sure that the
necessary expertise and experience has
been gained with less expensive kits.
The Revell 1:32 scale Beaufighter is
the Mk IF but to change it to the
Merlin-powered IIF is not difficult pro-
No roundels on under surfaces
viding you are prepared to carry out a
fair amount of hard but varied work.
Although basically accurate in outline
the kit does have one major shortcoming
which is with the cockpit canopy. The
one supplied in the kit is of a very early
type that was fitted to only a few of the
first Beaufighters to enter service, so to
be strictly accurate this must be replaced
by a moulded one on which the panel
lines are correct for the later canopy.
Should you have a vac-form tool the best
way to tackle this is to remove all the
frame lines from the kit canopy, then use
the smooth transparency as a master
mould to form a new one. The erroneous
lines are on the windscreen being in the
form of 'quarter lights' behind the main
screen, and on the port side where the
lower canopy frame should be removed.
Some Mk IIFs. including R2270, were in
fact fitted with the canopy as supplied in
the kit for a period of time, so if you
chose one of these this work is not
necessary.
the cockpit area the kit falls
Still in
down providing a complete rear bulk-
in
head behind the pilot (part 13) whereas
on the actual aircraft this did not exist.
To rectify this remove the top half of this

126
 CONVERSIONS

Oil coolers removed from both wings

lype B biue/reu ruunut

only
Aerials Parts 78-80 starboard wing

toft thepage. ^^^

Drawings have been reduced to 1:90 scale ^^"/'"f
OveraUwirigspanshouldbe9 '^-"'^^^^t
.^^i^^^^^^^^
omZi -liar 1:32 scales as required
or 14, respectively,
former. 2W in the latter; fuselage length
should be 6 j,

excluding nose probe.

127
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Radar antennae A 1 MklV

Name 'Flying Standard' in whit'

4 X 20mm cannons in nose

Spinner and propellers

from Revell Mosquito
Aerial from stretched sprue
or scratch-built /
i^S^
Merlin engines with flush exhaust. See separate drawing

Aerials Parts 78-80 in kit

starboard wing only

4 X .303 Browning
machine-guns starboard wing

Night black overall (RDM

Serialsdark red
Bristol Beaufighter Mk IIF

128
 CONVERSIONS

The port wing of the Beaufighter showing

the area inboard of the landing light
where the oil cooler intakes have been
removed and gaps filled.

roundel with ve/low surround

Port Merlin engine fitted to the centre

section and exhausts added. The gap
Two .303 Browning between wings and fuselage has been filled
machine-guns port wing with Green Stuff.
I

part on a line with the cockpit side con-

sols. However, if this is done the
interior immediately behind the pilot is
revealed and since this is devoid of any
detail the model will look totally inaccu-
Pitot head
rate. To overcome this the interior can
be added by inserting strips of plastic
card to represent the stringers which
Radar aerials both wings form the fuselage, and fabricating other
equipment from bits and pieces. An
excellent set of drawing including a cut-
away one showing all the interior, was
published in the May and July 1974
magazine Sccde Models and a copy of
this or just the drawings from the MAP
Plans service is invaluable when carry-
ing out this conversion. Alternatively the
complete nose section of a Beaufighter is

129
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

on view at the RAF Museum Hendon do when building a solid scale model, the
and is well worth a comprehensive width is then marked on to the top of the
study. Examination of the mentioned block equally about the centre-line, and
drawings, or the exhibit, will also the plan view marked and shaped. Once
quickly indicate that the navigator's the basic shape has been achieved, split
compartment as supplied in the kit is the mould down the middle and make the
nothing more than a figment of the female portion from '/+ inch thick balsa.
designer's imagination and should be Use 30 thou plastic card to produce four
completely replaced by a new scratch- halves plus a couple of spares, then place
built interior with the seat facing towards the new engine parts safely to one side
the rear (although it does swivel), a new and turn to the wings.
floor, and new instrumentation. The moulded portions of the Hercules
Space does not allow a fully detailed engines incorporated in parts 35 and 36
description of these changes so if you are are removed with a sharp modelling
enthusiastic enough to attempt this con- knife following accurately the cowl-
version, then you should by now know ing shape. Clean up the area where the
enough about the joys of carrying out cuts were made then hold a flexible piece
research into such items, and formulat- of card under the wing and trace the cut
ing your own methods in rectifying the out portions on to this. The shape drawn
errors mentioned. is cut out with scissors and used as a

Obviously the major task is the provi- template to make two identical shapes
sion of the Merlin engines which ideally from 20 thou plastic card. Test fit these
should be carved from balsa then shapes and once you are happy that they
moulded from plastic card as described are accurate, but not until then, cement
in the chapter on scratch-building. It is two pieces of 20 thou plastic card inside
best to carry out this work first for if you the wing halves thus blocking off the
do not complete it successfully the con- hole that was made when the cowlings
version is impossible until such time as a were removed. Once this underlayer has
1:32 scale Lancaster is produced from set, the two shaped plastic card inserts
which the engines can be cannibalised! are cemented into the holes from the top,
Trace the outline of the Merlin on to a thus restoring the fiat surface of the top
block of balsa and carve it as you would of the wing. The bottom halves of the

Plan view of the completed Mkll Beaufighter. The all-back (soot) finish is badly weathered
with Rub 'n ' Buff. The new engines and radar aerials can be clearly seen in this shot.

130
 CONVERSIONS

Top Three-quarter head-on view of the completed Beaufighter conversion which gives a
good indication of the different appearance given to the model by the sleek in-line Merlins
instead of the huge radial Hercules engines. Above The spinners and propellers for the
Merlin engines came from a Revell Mosquito, but could be moulded and scratch-built
from plastic card if spares from the latter kit are not available.

cowlings are treated in the same way but The Merlin engines were much thinner
do not cut templates to fill the holes as in cross-section than the Hercules so this
part of these will form the wheel well. work is necessary as there is no way in
On the bottom section (part 38). it is which a short cut can be taken by only
enough to simply cover the holes on the fitting new front sections to the existing
inside with 20 thou plastic card. When engine cowling mouldings.
the new moulded engines are fitted, the When all trace of the original cowlings
level of the wings outboard of the new has been removed, cement parts 35. 36
nacelles can be built up using scraps of and 38 together then take one half of the
plastic card or filler. new mouldings and mark the cuts that

131
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

The exhaust stacks for the Merlins are made from hollow plastic tubing heated and shaped
as shown.

have to be made to fit this to the revised ends on a line level with the main spar,
wing section. This operation is very while the underneath ends at exactly the
much a case of trial and error, hence the same point, just forward of the flaps, as
spare mouldings, and it is best to pro- did the Hercules. When this sub-
ceed with caution, removing small areas assembly has dried mark out the under-
at a time. The top of the Merlin
line carriage doors and remove them for
cowling ends on the of the main spar
line relocation in the open position, then add
which is moulded into the Revell wing the various intakes and 'blisters" from
surfaces. When the wing sections have parts taken from the spares box.
been successfully removed from the Spinners can be either moulded in the
moulded engines, they are assembled by same way as the engines were, then fit-
inserting a round bulkhead at the front, ted with propeller blades made from 30
to ensure perfect symmetry as well as thou plastic card sanded to shape, or the
provide a solid base for the location of complete propeller and spinner assemb-
the propeller, and parts 37 which are lies used from a Revell Mosquito, if
reduced in width until they fit into the finance allows the purchase of this kit
Merlin nacelles. It is essential that these just for these parts.
parts are used as they form a really solid The outer wing panels (parts 31/32 and
base for the undercarriage location, the 33/34) have oil cooler intakes moulded
points of which will remain if the width is into their leading edges and these must
reduced equally either side. Cut out the be removed as they were not needed on
front of the cowlings for the radiator the Merlin-engined version. Revell have
intakes then block these off with plastic conveniently marked panel lines around
card bulkheads which can be scored to these intakes so use these as a guide to
simulate the radiator honeycomb sec- cut out two almost square sections from
tions.At this stage it is also as well to fit each wing. Line the undersides of each
the exhaust pipes which on a few of the half with 20 thou plastic card, cement the
early Mk IIFs were completely wing sections together, then build up the
shrouded but later took the form of a level of the plastic card lined squares
pipe recessed into the cowling and only with filler.
protruding at the rear
end. The model is now assembled as per kit
Cement halves of the Merlin
the instructions but dihedral can be added
engines together then assemble them to to the tailplane if you have chosen a
the wings, making sure that their model that had this. Should you wish to
centre-lines are level with each other and include this feature then remove the
the top and bottom sections of the nacel- locating lugs on parts 39/40 and 43/44
les locate in the correct positions on the then sand the tailplane root to an angle of
wings. As already stated, the top fairing 12°. This can be achieved quite simply

132
 CONVERSIONS

by making a template from cardboard on* with the normal moulded parts.
which the correct angle has been marked Most Mk IIFs were finished black
and constantly checking the tailplanes overall when used in the night fighter
against this as the sanding work pro- role but an interesting variation would be
ceeds. the prototype, R2058, which was painted
The model will now require a consid- in standard Dark Green/Dark Earth
erable amount of filler where all the new camouflage with yellow under surfaces.
moulded parts have been fitted and the Dependent on the finish chosen, the
oil coolers removed, followed by a lot of roundels in the kit can be used but codes
sanding to smooth this filler into the air- will need to be obtained from other
frame. This work must be carried out sources or even hand-painted, which on
conscientiously otherwise the whole a model of this size is not that difficult.
model will be spoiled. The Beaufighter is a challenging sub-
Fit radar aerials and the undercarriage jecton which to end this chapter and
then paint a matt white or light grey makes an interesting model to add to
undercoat overall, this will show up any 1:32 scale collections; it is particularly
imperfections where further work is impressive when displayed alongside the
needed as well as sealing the filler and original Beaufighter kit when the
making sure that the final paint texture changes that have been made become
applied to these areas does not contrast very evident.

133
 eight

Scratch-building
The opportunities that now exist as far ents itself to discuss and show your
as available materials for scratch- work, during its various stages, with
building are concerned are better than other members. By doing this you will
they have ever been, it seems ironical find that many comments are helpful and
therefore that so few modellers try this can lead to improvements in the model
method of producing aircraft for their as well as your own standards. Do not be
collections. Those who have tried solid over-sensitive to criticism as in most
modelling, as outlined in chapter three, cases it have been made with any
will not
are already well on the way to taking the intent to belittle your efforts, and from it
next logical step, those who haven't still can grow an understanding of the way
need not be deterred for there is an other modellers work which in turn can
immense amount of satisfaction to be be helpful to you.
gained from creating a model from basic Above all view your own work criti-
materials instead of building and improv- cally as it is so easy to see what you want
ing a commercial kit. to see rather than things as they appear
Less than 30 years ago 'solid' model- to others, so remember to take off those
ling, as it was then called, had reached a 'rose coloured spectacles' when examin-
peak of popularity, with wood, as the ing your own efforts.
most readily available material, being the Finally, before actually starting work
chosen medium of all but the very few. on the model, indulge in a little mental
Today, with the advent of plastic, there exercise during which you take the con-
is the opportunity to produce compo- struction through each step. By doing
nents that can be moulded into complex this you will make yourself aware of any
shapes, thus producing models to a stan- problems that are likely to occur before
dard that could only be dreamed about they actually do so. During this mental
by the early solid model enthusiasts. trip into the unknown, try to picture the
What then is required of the modeller shape of each part and how you propose
who wishes to try his hand at scratch- to make it, how it will fitto other com-
building? The most important attribute ponents, and above all what you hope
must be a complete dedication to the the finished model will look like. This
hobby, closely followed by patience and will give a 'feel' for the subject and
the will to spend a little more time than is throughout its construction a second
required in building a normal plastic kit. sight at each stage of whether or not you
At the outset it is important to set are achieving your goal.
yourself a high standard and not be pre- Experience in working with wood is a
pared to accept anything that does not good grounding to building with plastic
come up to the requirements of this. card, which in scratch-building, becomes
Before starting a model make sure that the basic material. It has many advan-.
you thoroughly research it and that the tages over wood which makes it an ideal
drawings you propose to work from are choice for this type of modelling. Among
the most accurate available, in some these advantages are the facts that it is
cases there will be a variety of drawings easily cut with a modelling knife; it sof-
from which to take your pick, but com- tens when heated and can thus be
parison of these with photographs will moulded to practically any shape, while
usually enable you to pin-point any inac- when the heat source is removed, it
curacies, which must be put right before retains the shape to which it has been
the actual task of modelling begins. If moulded; in its natural form it has a
you belong to a modelling society or smooth surface; it is readily available at
club, take every opportunity that pres- most model shops in thicknesses ranging

134
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

from 5 to 60 thou,in sheets which are Other tools have their uses but once
usually 13x9 inches; and construction again we come back to the old question
is easily and quickly accomplished using
of personal choice and depth of pocket,
normal polystyrene tube cement for the both of which are the prerogative of the
thicker sheets, and liquid cement for the individual modeller.
thinner ones. Whether or not you are a complete
These six points result in almost the beginner to scratch-building, it should be
perfect modelling material, which is obvious that the choice of a first subject
superior in practically every respect to should be as simple as possible. But at
wood, when it is used in the correct way. the same time it must retain an element
of interest, which will provide you with
The tools required are no different to
those which have already been discussed the will to complete it. After all, if you
in previous chapters, and most scratch-
are a dedicated modeller of jet fighters,
builders find that a modelling knife with you will soon loose interest in trying to
a selection of blades, a set of files, sand- scratch-build a pre-war biplane, so the
paper, wet and dry and flour paper, a six choice of a subject of this type for such a
modeller almost certainly doomed
and 24 inch metal rule, tweezers, a razor is

plane, and a selection of probes rightfrom the start. So select a simple

(obtained if possible from our old friend model that you are keen to build for from
the dentist), are adequate for their needs. vour enthusiasm and dedication will

This model of the Blohm and Voss Ha 139 flying boat is made from an Airframe vac-form
When this kit was released in 1972 it was one of the largest vac-form
models available
kit.
(photo courtesy Airframe).

135
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

grow the ability to overcome each prob- essential to use two blocks of wood
lem as it occurs. Such a subject should joined along the centre-line. Having
preferably avoid complex shapes such as joined the blocks, mark the outline of the
those found on the Phantom and Har- aircraft on one side by placing the block
rier, similarly biplanes can also present under the plan and pin-pricking the
certain problems so should be avoided shape on to the wood, the pricks are then
until some experience has been gained. joined with a line drawn with a ball-point
Aircraft with basically simply outlines pen and the shape cut out. The plan view
that are ideal as a first attempt at is transferred in the same way and this is

scratch-building are the MiG 15, Miles also then cut to shape. The shaped block
Magister, DH Chipmunk, Fokker D is carved to the correct cross-sections

VI 11 and the Comper Swift which is using templates, the final shaping being
fully detailed at the end of this chapter. accomplished with a fine grade glass-
These are only a guide as there are many paper or flour paper. It is very important
other subjects which are equally as suit- that both sides of the fuselage are identi-
able for the beginner to cut his teeth on. cal since if they are not, the fault will
An hour or two spent mulling over the become very apparent when the
pages of aviation books or magazines is moulded plastic card halves are pro-
certain to produce an aircraft within the duced.
range of your interests that has the qual- As accuracy is vital it is well worth
ities of simplicity common to the exam- going over the main points to remember
ples quoted. when carving. Use a razor blade plane
One of the major advantages of for the initial shaping, and set the blade
scratch-building is that you are not tied so that it does not take too coarse a cut;
to a particular scale, unless of course the try to take small cuts rather than big ones
model chosen is to form part of a con- as it is always easy to remove more mat-
stant scale collection, so the choice of erial, but not so easy to put some back:
size is the first decision that has to be cut with the grain of the wood whenever
taken. This of course brings us to the possible and make frequent checks with
first hurdle which is the acquisition of a the templates to ensure that the correct
suitable general arrangement (GA) draw- shape is being formed. If the fuselage has
ing. a circular section at each end, such as in
It possible that a plan to the scale
is the MiG 15, metal washers of the correct
you want is readily available from com- diameter fixed to each end of the block
mercial sources, but on the other hand, will ensure that both orifices are perfect
you may find that the only drawing you in section. When you have neared the
are able to locate is too small or too end of shaping achieve the final result
large. If this happens you must enlarge with glass-paper and finish off with fine
or reduce it to the size you want either flour paper.
by using the grid method described in Once you are satisfied that the fuse-
chapter three, or by taking the drawing lage the correct shape, split the block
is

to a photocopying agency who have the down the centre-line and you will have
equipment to reproduce it exactly to the two identical fuselage halves, which are
size you specify. Once you have a use- the male moulds.
able plan, research is completed, and To produce the female mould, lay one
any available photographs are readily to of the completed fuselage halves on to a
hand, work on the actual construction fiat sheet of balsa wood which should be
can begin, and a good starting point is about '/4 inch thick, and draw around its
the fuselage. outline with a soft pencil or ball pen. Cut
Basically there are three types of con- out this shape using a very sharp knife
struction methods suitable for making and making sure that the marked line is
the fuselage, these are: moulding, built- followed accurately. If this is done cor-
up box type, or a combination of both, rectly the end result will be a shape in the
the one selected depending very much sheet balsa through which the fuselage
on the model being constructed. half will pass, the amount of clearance to
To mould a fuselage it is first neces- aim for being approximately 1/32 inch all
sary to produce an accurate master from round. This point is extremely important
balsa or obechi. This is done in exactly as on it will depend the success or
the same way as that described earlier otherwise of the final moulding.
for wooden models, except that it is The final operation before moulding

136
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

can start is the addition of a handle to the lar strength 20 or even 10 thou will prove
inside of the two male moulds. This need adequate.
only be a wooden block large enough to Using the female mould as a guide, cut
hold comfortably which can be screwed a piece of plastic card sheet to the same
or glued to the flat inside surfaces of the size then clip it with bulldog clips to the
split fuselage halves. balsa wood. This type of clip, which can
Moulding plastic card is a vital part of be obtained from any stationery shop, is
scratch-building, and now that you have ideal for the purpose as it is strong and
made the male and female components it not likely to be affected by the heat
is time to attempt this. Several practice source. But remember that they will get
runs may be necessary but once you hot so avoid touching them when the
have learned the basic techniques it mould is first removed from the heat
should be possible to produce an accu- source.
rate moulding every time you try. Oncethe plastic card sheet is attached
Generally speaking most scratch- to the female mould, hold it up to a
builders find that 30 thou thick plastic strong light and trace out the shape to be
card is ideal for aircraft of between 1:72 moulded. This operation is a vital one as
and 1:36 scales, while for smaller com- it will enable you to see exactly where

ponents that do not require any particu- the male mould has to be inserted once

Moulding canopies

Male mould
carved from
balsa

r^*3ipn
Female mould
with acetate pinned
to it

Plunge male mould

through female

Cut out canopy, clean up

edges and attach to model

137
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

the plastic card has been heated to a been used for component being pro-
moulding state. duced.
Prepare some supports for the female When the mould has been satisfactor-
mould, which need only be two strips of ily produced, cut out the shape using a
hardwood deep enough to allow the male sharp knife and bring it down to the final
mould to pass through but not touch the dimensions with wet and dry paper.
surface on to which the female mould is Mould the other fuselage half in
to be placed. In other words the strips exactly the same way but remember this
must be deeper than the proposed depth time to turn the female mould over and
of half the fuselage. It is important to use the second fuselage half, it is very
make sure that these support strips are easy to become absorbed in the work
strong enough to withstand some pres- and end up with two port or starboard
sure otherwise the mould might crack at fuselage halves! This moulding process
a vital moment. enables practically any shape to be pro-
The heat source in which the plastic duced but clearly some, especially those
card will be placed must be capable of with double bubble contours, will
producing equal heat over the whole require careful working out as it is not
mould, and an ideal source is the normal possible to use this technique when two
grill that can be found on most domestic curves undercut on to each other.
gas or electric cookers. Switch on the Although in the example quoted the
grill and allow it to get hot then place the fuselage block was cut down a vertical
mould with the plastic card attached centre line, there is nothing to prevent
underneath it. As the heat begins to you making the cut along a horizontal
affect the plastic card, the first thing that line, thus moulding a top and bottom sec-
will be noticed is that the card starts to tion instead of port and starboard halves.
curl up towards the heat, it will then flop In some cases such as the Venom and
back, start to smoke at the same time Vampire it might be better to follow this
becoming very malleable. When it procedure.
reaches this point remove it from the If 30 thou plastic card has been used it
grill, place it on the prepared supports, will be possible to join the two halves
plastic card uppermost, then firmly press together with ordinary tube cement, but
the male mould through the previously before doing this add interior detail and
marked hole. Push it through until the bulkheads and make sure that some pro-
top of the male mould is just below the vision has been made for wing and tail
level of the hole in the female mould, unit locations.
allow the plastic card to cool off then The built-up box section fuselage is
remove the male mould. If the plastic fully detailed in the practical example of
card was the correct temperature and the the Comper Swift, so there is little point
male mould was pushed through accu- in repeating the process here, as it is bas-
rately and firmly, the end result will be a ically similar for any fuselage of this
perfectly shaped fuselage half in the plas- type.
tic card. The combined type is clearly ideal
First attempts might not work out where the fuselage has a box section as
exactly as you hoped but once you have its base and a curved top decking, all that

tried a fe.w times you will soon find the is necessary in such cases is to make a
correct method after which faulty mould- mould for the curved top decking and
ings should become a rarity. build up the rest of the fuselage in a box
Some of the faults that can occur and section.
their reasons are: male mould refuses to Fvery modeller will quickly find his
pass completely through female mould; own methods of working and tailor these
cause — plastic card not heated suffi- to suit his particular requirements, but
ciently. Strain marks on edges of generally it will be found more conve-
finished mould; cause —female mould nient to produce all the components first
has insufficient clearance around the before assembling them rather than
edges. Finished moulding too thin; cause completing the fuselage before going
— either plastic card moulded whilst it on to the wings and tail unit.
was too hot, or females mould clearance Turning to the wings, again there are
not sufficient. Male motild passes right three basic methods all of which will
through plastic card; cause —
plastic produce the same end result, but depend-
card far too hot or too thin a gauge has ing on the subject chosen each has cer-

138
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

Build up wing with laminations of

plastic card. For intakes, etc, make
cut-outs in centre laminations

Carve and sand to correct aerofoil

section then score panel lines and
control surfaces

tain advantages over the other. done, cement all the laminations
The first method is to make the wings together and either clamp them tightly
fiom solid laminated sheets of plastic or, if no clamps are available, place them
card. This is ideal for wings that have under a heavy weight. Leave the lami-
radiators incorporated in their leading nated sections in this state for at least
edges such as those to be seen on the three or four days to allow the glue to set
Westland Whirlwind and DH Mosquito. really hard, then remove the clamps or
Start by tracing the wing outline on to weight and start the hardest part, which
plastic card then cut this out and use it as is filing, sanding and cutting them to the
a template to draw the wing on as many correct aerofoil section and taper along
laminations as required to achieve the their length. When you have done this,
correct thickness at the wing's thickest panel lines, ailerons and flaps can be
point. If leading edge radiators are scored into the surface with a scriber and
included, remove the area required from steel rule.
the inner three or four laminations, Moulded wings follow the same pro-
which when sandwiched between the top cedure as that used for fuselages and
and bottom ones will leave a convincing again it is emphasised that accurate carv-
radiator intake. Wheel wells can be made ing is essential. Wings that have their
in the same way by cutting their shape internal ribs very prominently shown on
into the bottom two or three laminations. their surfaces, can be produced very
Once the preliminary work has been effectively by the moulding process. To

139
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

do this lightly mark the positions of the plastic card must be left at the leading
ribs on the male mould, then attach edge as this will be folded over the
thread across the chord in the positions wooden former.
required, remembering to use thinner If the wing is of the ribbed variety,
thread for the under surfaces where the score in the rib positions with a ball pen
ribbing is usually less pronounced. across the bottom and what will be the
When the two halves of each wing top of the wing, by placing the plastic
have been moulded they should be cut card on a perfectly smooth surface and
out from the plastic card and cemented using a steel rule as a guide for the ball
together using the male mould inside as a pen. Gently score along the line of the
core to give them additional strength. leading edge using a ball point pen but
Although nothing is easy as far as make sure that you do not press too hard
scratch-building is concerned, the third as in this thickness of plastic card it is
method of making wings is probably the very easy to cut right through. Now
simplest and the best for the beginner to slightly chamfer the trailing edges and
use if his chosen subject allows it. This wing tips and you are ready to undertake
method is to use plastic card folded over the final shaping.
a wooden wing which, if the results are The carved wooden wing should be
to be successful, must first be accurately slightly undersize and completely accu-
shaped. Start by tracing the true shape of rate along its whole length as far as the
the wing on to a sheet of 10 thou plastic aerofoil section is concerned. Coat the
card, this will eventually become the undersurface of the wooden wing with an
bottom surface of the wing, so enough impact adhesive such as Versifix. which

Scratch-building wings

"

J
^ ^UJ"^ ore any rib lin
inside plastic card

Chamfer T/E
ofplastic card
Glue wing to lower part of plastic
card with Versifix, cover top surface
with Versifix then fold o ver as shown
in sketches 1-4

140
 SCRATCH-BL'ILDING

w
Wooden Glue together Carve to shape
laminations and mark profile

'^"-V?!^^p'*«^,*>M -» -

Fin ished propeller

is made by Rexel. and place it in position will be found impossible to shape the
on the plastic card which should also wing tips in this way, and the only satis-
have had a layer of the adhesive spread factory solution is to cut off the tip and
over it a few seconds before. Now coat replace it with a new one made from
the top surface of the wing core and the laminated plastic card. Tidy up the wing
surface of the plastic card which is to be b\ smoothing the trailing edges and tips
folded over it and leave the assembly for with wet and dry. then score in the panel
a few seconds before you start trying to and control surface lines. In some cases
bend over the plastic card top surface. it is advisable to completely cut out the

This operation is the most crucial of the ailerons and flaps, then cement them
whole exercise and must be carried out back into position as this results in a
carefully as described. Hold the wing in much more authentic appearance. In this
both hands with the leading edge pressed t\'pe of wing construction the wooden
vertically on to a hard flat surface, and core, as it does in the moulded wing,
the bottom of the wing facing you. Now gives a solid base into which can be fitted
move the wing away from you pivoting undercarriage legs, guns and underwing
on the leading edge so that the plastic stores.
card makes contact with the wooden Unless the model you are making is a
core as you roll the top surface on to it. very big one. or a small one to a large
Continue to press down until the trailing scale, when the fin/rudder and tailplanes
edges of the top and bottom surfaces can be made in the same way as the
meet, then with a brush, run liquid wings, it is best to make these compo-
cement along the join between the top nents from one piece of thick plastic card
and bottom leading edges. Leave this to or laminations. If ribbing is required on
dry and when it has done so. join the top these components it can be simulated
and bottom surfaces of the wing tips in with thin strips of plastic card or
thesame way. In some cases, especially stretched sprue attached to the surfaces
where double curvatures are involved, it with liquid cement, since in most cases

141
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

such ribbing isnot so pronounced on tail veneers at this point. These washers will
units as it is on wings. ensure that a perfectly round central
One important component that can boss results when the carving operation
make or mar a scratch-built model is the is completed. Mark the front elevation

propeller, this is especially important on the veneers and carve them to this
where the aircraft concerned is of the shape, then do the same with the side
type that used a wooden laminated elevation. Study the aerofoil section
airscrew. A propeller is, in essence, required and once you have a mental pic-
nothing more elaborate than a twisted ture of this firmly impressed in your
aerofoil section, and if this is kept in the mind, carve the front and rear of each
forefront of the mind, a lot of the mys- blade until it is the shape you require it.
tery in carving it is dispensed with. Finish the propeller with fiour paper and
For vintage aircraft with wooden finally remove the washers before giving
propellers there is no finer way of repro- the completed propeller two coats of
ducing these than using wooden veneers clear varnish, lightly sanding with flour
as sold for use in marquetry, as these will paper after the first.
enable exquisite results that really Metal propellers can be made in a
enhance the finished model to be similar way using laminated plastic card
obtained. and painted the correct colour, but in the
Select two veneers of differing rich case of multi-bladed propellers, it is
brown colours, bearing in mind that final easier to make each blade separately by
varnishing will tend to slightly deepen shaping it from plastic card of the correct
the chosen colours, then cut out an equal thickness then twisting it to the correct
number of each to a size that will cover pitch angle before setting it into a previ-
the diameter and width of the propeller ously manufactured boss or spinner.
blade. Use a good quality wood glue to Commercial kits will provide many
join the veneers together, alternating the components for the scratch-builder, such
colours as you go along. When the glue as wheels, bombs, propellers, canopies
has set mark the centre point and glue and so on, but you will find that as you
metal washers, the diameter of the prop- become absorbed into this style of mod-
eller boss, to the front and back of the elling you will prefer to make as many

Some of the parts which go to make up the Rareplanes YB-17 vac-form kit. This kit also
includes a spare fuselage which can be used with parts from the Revell B-17E to make the
RAF's Fortress 1.

ii»«»««a YB-i-y I ^ r^-"f| h

fkJ ES0
14:
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

1 PUBW^

p
jr>v ' ^

—r^^»mssss^
=^^ ...^ ii.^-

^^
H^
sr a
^^
HIin ^fe^
\n
^^b^^^^i

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11
^^^^^^^^^

Efll
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^aaWMMBMBHHHH^^^^H

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11 IH1 J_2
jl
^^^
mni
Rareplanes 1:72 scale vac-formed De the laminated variety and can often be
Havilland Dragon Rapide. This kit is simply butt jointed with tube cement to
unusual in that the fuselage mouldings are their correct location points. In some
made of thick, clear acetate which requires cases locating dowels made from thick
the use of liquid acetone solvent as an sprue or plastic rod will be of tremend-
adhesive. The obvious advantage of this ous help, and on models where the wing
innovation is that there are no windows to has a fairing over the root to fuselage join
fit and the modeller simply paints the this can be made from 10 thou plastic
internal fuselage after masking off the card. Assembly of sub-components is
window areas (photo courtesy Rareplanes). very much a matter of experimentation
and personal preference and after a while
components as you possibly can, and the you will decide on the method that suits
sources of material for such parts can be you best.
discovered in the most unlikely places.
Undercarriage legs and wing struts
Examples of such items that will be can be cut from 60 thou plastic card and
sufficient to set your thoughts along the
one advantage of using this method is
right tracks are large and small plastic
that the resulting struts will be very
curtain rings, that make ideal tyres for
strong. Plastic card also has the useful
1914-18 and pre-war biplanes; press-
property of breaking evenly down a
studs which have a remarkable similarity
scored line, which enables useful lengths
to wheel hubs used on aircraft during the
to be accurately produced without the
war years; foil from cigarette packets, necessity of tedious cutting down a steel
which makes superb wing walks and rule. Naturally, on larger models inter-
radiator grilles; plastic tubing for shock
plane struts can be made by using a balsa
absorbers, guns, pitot heads, complete
core around which 10 thou plastic card is
cowlings, or even the knurled tops from
folded as was done for the wing, these
tooth paste tubes, which can be used for
turn out most effectively and are useful
Lewis gun magazines. All around you when they are not required to carry any
there are hundreds of items waiting to be
stress.
discovered, and with a little thought you
might be the one to come up with an item Emphasis on the art of improvisation
that no one has used before. cannot be stressed strongly enough and
The fitting together of the major com- the way any particular model is
ponents depends a great deal on the way approached rests very much in the hands
these have been produced and the size of of the modeller concerned, for unlike the
the model. It is very difficult to man who is content to assemble standard
generalise as every scratch-builder has kitcomponents, the scratch-builder has
his own favourite way of accomplishing the tremendous advantage of making
this. Moulded or wings made by the fold- every part in the way he wants to.
ing method are very much lighter than Many of the points that have not been

14.^
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Rareplanes 1:72 scale Lockheed Super Constellation. This kit can be made into several
versions, such as the EC-121M early-warning radar ship shown. In such large sizes, vac-
forms need to be extremely accurate in shape, smoothly and sharply moulded, and finely
detailed to make the resulting model convincing (photo courtesy Rareplanes).

covered in depth are dealt with in the in this form are now also available as
practicalexample of the Comper Swift, injection-moulded items.
and these can be adapted to suit any pro- The basic kit consists of parts formed
ject. Some modellersargue that the
will on one or two sheets of fairly thick plas-
scratch-builder is making a rod for his tic card and these parts have to be cut
own back, or even turning the clock back out and worked on before they can be
to the days before the plastic kit, when it assembled in their intended final form.
was necessary to make every part of a All such kits are produced by the
model from odds and ends. Once you manufacturer first making wooden mas-
have tried scratch-building it is unlikely ters then forming the plastic card sheet-
that you will subscribe to this school of ing over these either by extracting the air
thought, for when the model you have as the plastic softens in the same way as
selected is complete, you will know that described in chapter two for the Mattel
it is the only one that exists, and is not or home made vac-form tool, or by mak-
just a greatly improved version of a ing the masters hollow shells and forcing
commercial kit that any modeller can the softened plastic card into the shape
assemble, albeit with varying degrees of by forcing under pressure.
air in
success. Whichever method is used the final
Vac-form considered to
kits are often quality of the kit is very dependent on
be an stepping stone towards
ideal the accuracy of the master moulds and
scratch-building, so it is worth taking a the detail that has been included on it. In
look at this type of kit as it does present England Rareplanes of Earlswood, Sur-
certain challenges that are lacking in the rey, are the true pioneers of this type of
normal injection-type moulded kit. kit and their products have now reached
From very small beginnings several a standard that matches some of the
years ago, the vac-formed kit has now commercially produced injection-
mushroomed into an important part of moulded kits. This company includes a
the hobby and there are several com- tremendous amount of extremely fine
panies engaged in producing this type of surface detail and in the hands of a com-
model. petent modeller the resulting model is
This type of kit isusually confined to a hard to from a normal plastic kit.
tell
subject that it is unlikely the bigger man- Contrail Models is another English
ufacturers will produce, although in comf)any which started in a small way
some cases kits that have been released and would no doubt be the first to agree

144
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

that some of their early offerings, models have produced component parts
although fulfilling a need, were rather as well as one or two complete kits,
crude. Their standards have now whilst in Germany the firm Airmodel
improved and their range includes some continue to produce both conversion
of the popular flying boats and 'between parts and complete kits at a remarkable
the wars' aircraft that have a magic of rate.
their own which so far has not rubbed off So the area of choice for those wishing
on some of the injection-moulded kit to try a vac-form kit is wide open. As a
manufacturers. primer before scratch-building, the
Much the same can be said about the assembly of a vac-form kit provides
Canadian company. Airframe, whose practice in working with plastic card,
extensive range extends from World War and does to a certain degree instill some
I subjects to unusual aircraft of confidence to those who prefer to cross
World War 2, and even post-war each bridge as it comes. Those who are
experimental jets. In America Horizon bold enough and wish to plunge straight
in at the deep end, will no doubt regard
1:72 scale West land Pterodactyl from an making a vac-form kit as purely an
A irframe vac-form kit. This is one of the extension of assembling components
easiest vac-forms kits to make and is a good already made for them. If you feel this
starting point for anyone who has yet to way then by all means go ahead and start
try this type of modelling (photo courtesy making your own moulds, but if you are
Airframe). more conservative and want to try every
aspect of modelling, then a good quality
vac-form kit will provide you with hours
of enjoyable work and a model of which
you can be proud.
The comments that were made at the
start of this chapter in relation to acquir-
ing a 'feeP for the selected model apply
equally to vac-form modelling. So it is
important to choose a subject in which
you are interested, research it
thoroughly first and form a mental pic-
ture of how you want the model to look.
Providing you have some of the basic
skills that are necessary in any form of
modelling the present day vac-form kit
On some occasions vac-form kits are should hold no problems for you, but if
produced before the conventional injection- you are a complete beginner to this style
moulded ones. This Provost T 1 from the of model making it is wise to select a
Airframe range was released in 1973, but simple one on which to start. The first
sales are likely to be affected now that impression you are likely to form is that
Matchbox have the same aircraft in their this type of kit is expensive for what you
injection-moulded range. Model by Tony get, which is true, but must be viewed in
Woollett. the correct perspective. The production
runs of this type of kit are very much
smaller than those for injection moulded
kits so the initial production costs are
spread over less quantity, since the
manufacturer is looking to recover his
overheads as well as make a small profit
on maybe a quantity of ,000 as opposed
1

to the several million that might be pro-

duced from an injection-moulded tool.
But one must keep in mind that the kit
being purchased is, because of the
limited production, something of a rarity
and therefore a collector's item. It also
presents a much greater challenge than
the normal plastic kit, and the amount of

145
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT ,

hobby time needed to turn it into a clas- a certain amount of excess plastic pres-
sic model therefore greater, thus giv-
is ent when the moulds are cut from the
ing pleasure to the modeller for a longer basic sheet, but remember to constantly
period of time. So if you have a check the part you are working on
mathematical or accountant type mind against the plan as the wet and dry
and evaluate the cost of your modelling removes the plastic at a useful rate and it
in proportion to the time spent doing it, is easy to end up by removing too much

the vac-form kit represents very good plastic. Providing each component is
value for money! kept perfectly level whilst this sanding
The first step in construction is to operation is being carried out, the edges
remove the moulded parts from the plas- will end up with flat surfaces which will
tic sheet, and it is best to do this with a mate together leaving a barely percep-
sharp modelling knife and removing only tible join line.
those parts you are going to use during Should you be careless when sanding
each stage of construction. the fuselage halves and end up with one
Once the components are removed pin or both undersize, the fault can be
a sheet of medium grade wet and dry remedied, providing you have not made
paper to a flat board and, keeping the too serious a mistake, by cementing the
plastic card part level, rub its edges halves to correct thickness plastic
down until they are perfectly flat, mak- sheets, then cutting these to the fuselage
ing sure that plenty of water is used on outlines and removing the solid sheet
the wet and dry paper during this pro- from cockpit and intake areas. By exert-
cess. All kits are moulded so that there is ing more pressure from your fingers on

The Bucker Bu 133 Jungmeister from By-Planes. This kit, the first from this manufac-

turer, setsnew standards in vac-forms with the inclusion of cast metal accessories, mould-
ed wheels, decals and surface detail comparable to that of many injection-moulded kits.
It is also one of the few 1:48 scale vac-form kits available (model and photo by John
Carter).

146
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

the trailing edges of wings and tailpianes, stage as should the inside shells of the
these components can be reduced to a fuselage. If the plastic concerned is thick
truly lifelike thickness during the sanding enough the two halves can be simply butt
operation. Very small components such jointed together with tube cement, but if
as struts and undercarriage legs can be it is it is wise to cement
fairly thin plastic
attached to double-sided Sellotape to a locating strip around the edges. This
help with the handling problem but if you strip should protrude over the edge of
do this, do not use any water in the oper- the half into which it is cemented thus
ation or this will quickly cause the part to forming a 'step" on to which the other
become detached from the tape. half can be located and cemented in posi-
When the edges of the fuselage halves tion. In such cases it is best to hold the
are nearing completion constant checks two halves together with masking tape
must be made on their compatibility with then run liquid cement all round the join
each other and great care taken not to with a fine brush. Don't forget to remove
sand too much plastic away. Once a the tape when the fuselage has set fairly
smooth flat edge has been produced on solid and insert cement into the areas
both halves they should be mated where the tape was located. If this is not
together to ensure that they are equal done the plastic that was under the tape
about the centre-line and the fit is exact will separate from its adjacent compo-
along this line. Openings for the cockpit, nent and leave an unacceptable gap.
air scoops, radiators and any other simi- The fuselage assembly should be put
lar attachment can now be removed by safely on one side to set hard before any
scoring the area that has to be removed further attempt at working on it is made,
with a sharp modelling knife, removing in the meantime work can continue on
the unwanted plastic and finish the shap- other components. Wing sections are
ing with a file. Interior detail is added at treated in exactly the same way as the
this stage to suit the whim of the indi- fuselage with special attention being
vidual concerned, and this should be given to the finish of the trailing edges. It
painted in the correct colours at this is often helpful to insert plastic card

Parts cut out to moulding shape then

rubbed down evenly on wet and dry

147
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

spars inside the wing halves before join- When the cement has dried hard the
ing them together which is best accomp- model willhave a smooth finish which
Hshed with liquid cement in the same will provide a good base for the final
way as the fuselage was treated. It is par- paintwork. Sub-assemblies must have
ticularly important to make sure that the surface detail added by scribing
the wing roots are shaped accurately and panel marks and control surfaces. The
fit the fuselage with their chord parallel latter can be removed and replaced in
to the aircraft's centre-line. realistic positions if you so desire. If you
Before fitting the wing halves together do this the wing or tailplane will be hol-
it is advisable to insert small blocks of low where the elevators or ailerons have
plastic card at the points where under- been removed, so any small gaps that
carriage legs or underwing stores are to appear after these components are
be fitted as these will give very positive cemented back at the desired angles,
location and fixing points for such com- must be filled with strips of plastic card.
ponents. Wheel wells and leading edge On many of the newer vac-form kits, in
radiators must also be provided for particular Rareplanes, surface detail is
before the wing halves are joined and included and will need very little atten-
careful thought must be given to how tion. Some of them, however, have no
these important parts of the model are detail or that which is included has been
going to be included, remember that a done far too heavily. In the former
wheel well is not just a shaped hole in the instance it can be marked as already
wing undersurface, but is lined around described, in the latter, it is best to fill all
its edges and has equipment included in detail with body putty then re-mark the
it. This can all be reproduced with pieces detail once this has been sanded smooth.
of plastic card cut and trimmed to the Internal wing or fuselage ribbing can be
correct sizes. simulated by scoring the insides of the
In many vac -form kits, especially components with a biro as described for
those of radial-engined aircraft, engines scratch-building, or alternatively rep-
are included but many builders prefer to resented by stretched sprue added to the
use equivalent components from injec- external surfaces with liquid cement.
tion moulded kits. Cowlings are moulded The main components should be
with a solid front which should be cemented to the fuselage with the aid of
removed with a sharp knife or reamed supporting braces made from plastic
out with a pair of divider points, cutting card or cocktail sticks and inserted into
well inside the final cowling line. Finish the wings and fuselage. A quick drying
such components with a fine round file liquid cement must be used as this en-
or better still, sandpaper wrapped ables the parts to set in their correct posi-
around a pencil or wooden dowel. tions very quickly and helps prevent
In cases where interplane struts or changes in dihederal and general align-
undercarriage legs are included, these ment.
will invariably be hollow on one side. If Cockpit canopies provided in vac-
you wish to use these, rather than form kits must be carefully removed
replace them with kit components or from the moulded sheet and the edges
new ones shaped from thicker plastic sanded or filed fiat, in most cases this
card, fill the hollow sides with body component is moulded from thin acetate
putty before removing them from the sheet and should be fixed to the com-
master sheet, leave this to dry hard, then pleted model with a glue that dries clear
remove the components and carry out such as Uhu, Evostick or PVA White
final shaping with sand paper or wet and Glue.
dry. The completed model is painted in
During the sanding process carried out exactly the same way as any other model
on all components some of the original but does need to be handled rather care-
smooth surface will be removed, but this fully as it will be more prone to damage
can be restored before final assembly of than a injection-moulded kit.
the components by lightly brushing Modelling from this type of kit is much
every part with liquid cement. Do this more demanding than that required with
very carefully and make sure that you the conventional plastic model: but the
are not too enthusiastic with the applica- end results are extremely satisfying and
tion of the cement or you will damage the the range now available is certain to pro-
surface you are trying to improve. viJe at least one subject that will prove

148
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

attractive to even the most critical ing struggle the designer received serious
enthusiast. ^ head injuries from which he did not
recover.
Comper Swift One of his obituaries claimed that
Nicholas Comper had never designed a
1:36 scale bad aeroplane; a fitting tribute to a
by Tony Woollett talented man, which leads one to muse
Light aircraft enthusiasts usually refer over what his talents might have pro-
to the 1930s as 'The Golden Years". This duced for Britain's war effort.
was a period of record-breaking flights, Building a model of this successful and
the First Endeavours, and many with interesting aircraft, examples of which
only a casual interest in this side of are still fiying, is an ideal first attempt at
aviation history, usually associate it complete scratch-building as it involves
with the de Havilland Moths, Percival many of the techniques described in the
Gulls, and the like. But one aircraft that main text of this chapter. If the following
was very much to the forefront was the instructions are followed and care is
dimunitive Comper Swift, one example taken, there is no reason why the end
of which, with C. A. Butler at the con- result should not be a pleasing example
trols, left Lympne on October 31 1932 of an aircraft that featured so promi-
and flew to Australia in nine days, two nently in the Golden Years of British
hours and 20 minutes. This aircraft light aviation.
which was serialed G-ABRE, was fitted Construction is best started with the
with extra fuel tanks which gave it an wings, as these are uncomplicated and
endurance of 1hours, this amount of
1 when successfully made will spur you on
fuel represented 42 gallons and gave the to tackle the harder job of the fuselage.
Swift an all-up weight of 1,146 lb,, nearly The wings are made by the one piece
twice its empty weight. folding method, the first step being to
The Swift was designed by Nicholas mark their outline on a sheet of 10 thou
Comper who received his technical train- plastic card, remembering to leave
ing at the de Havilland company enough material to fold over to form the
school before joining the RAF
when he top surfaces. Cut out the shape with a
was a lecturer at Cranwell. Several of sharp knife and chamfer the trailing
Comper's designs were built by the edges of the bottom surface so that the
Cranwell Light Aeroplane Club, but the top has a good area of contact when it is
Swift, which was his seventh design, was folded over. Score the top surface wing
manufactured by his own company ribs slightly heavier than those on the
which he left the RAF to form. bottom, using a ball-pen for this opera-
Comper's intention was to produce an tion, and when this has been done accu-
aircraft that had the handling qualities of rately smear contact adhesive, such as
contemporary RAF fighters and be in Versifix, on the areas that are to be
advance of any other club or private air- joined. Make sure that this adhesive
craft. Since the aircraft could match the does not seep on to the trailing edges,
400 hp Fairey Flycatcher and the 480 hp otherwise it will insulate them from the
Bristol Bulldog in rate of climb, and liquid cement that is used to seal the join.
exceeded the former's maximum level Once the top surface has been curved
speed flight, Comper succeeded on all over and stuck to the bottom, take a fine
counts and this from a mere 75 hp brush and very sparingly apply liquid
engine! cement along the trailing edge. This must
In addition to being something of an be done with care and the cement used
aeronautical genius, Comper was also an sparingly otherwise unsightly blemishes
avid practical joker, and his liking for will occur where the cement has soft-
this type of light relief ended in tragedy. ened too large an area of plastic card.
On the evening of June 17 1939 Comper, Remember the material is only 10 thou
who was then 42, left a public house in thick. Allow the structure to dry for at
Hythe, Kent and threw a lighted least six hours then gently work your
firework on to the pavement. To a way around the wing tips, sealing down a
passer-by he shouted 'I am an IRA small area at a time with liquid cement.
man'. Thinking that the firework was a There is no problem in this area if the
bomb, the unfortunate passer-by pushed work is not rushed, and solid wing tip
Comper to the ground and in the ensu- inserts are not necessary, but if you feel

149
MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT
SCRATCH-BUll DING
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

happier with them, by all means put sharp knife and a straight edge, an ideal
them in. implement in place of the conventional
All that remains to complete the wings steel rule, is the safe side of a six inch
is to carefullv cut out the ailerons with a straight file. The teeth on the file tend to

Below The balsa wood moulds used to form parts for the Comper Swift. The male and
female parts for the top decking are top right, crankcase mould is bottom right, while
that on the left is for the under cowling (photo by John Carter). Bottom The component
parts of the Comper Swift before assembly. The wings are built over a balsa wood core
and the ailerons have been separated. The base of the fuselage is made up in a box section
and the top decking has been moulded. The fin /rudder and tailplane are cut from plastic
card and the modified Airfix Boeing 747 wheels can be seen at the top of the photo
(photo by John Carter).

152
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

grip the wing surface when held in posi- ing.The bottom shape is also cut from
tion and prevent any movement whilst the same thickness material but
the cutting is taking place. Finally score remember to reduce the width by 30 thou
the wing folding hinges on top and bot- both sides to allow for the thickness of
tom surfaces then place the completed the sides which are butt jointed to it.
structure on one side and turn to the Now cut out another shape similar to the
rudder and tailplane. bottom which will be fitted to the top
These components are cut from 30 thus completing the box. This part
thou plastic card then filed to give should extend further forward than the
knife-like trailing edges and rounded bottom to meet the join line of the front
leading edges. Ribbing is added by cowling.
applying very thin stretched sprue with Use the plan to cut internal longerons
liquid cement where shown on the draw- from 20 thou plastic card and add these,
ings. These components should also be fixing with liquid cement, on to the
left for about six hours before any fuselage sides in the area of the cockpit.
attempt is made to clean up the shape Cut out the 'V shaped holes through
and thin down the ribbing with fine wet which the main undercarriage legs enter
and dry. The fin and rudder as well as the fuselage then drill holes at the rear of
the elevators can, of course, be sepa- the sides to accept the elevator control
rated and re-cemented in any desired cables. Location of the bottom to each
position. fuselage side is helped by cementing 20
During the time components are in the thou strips of plastic card along the bot-
'drying' stage, there are many other little tom of each fuselage side in a position
jobs that can be done or at least started whereby they will form a base against
on. One of these is the production of the which the bottom component fits. The
wheels. The Comper Swift had very same additions are also made to the top
small diameter wheels that had more of the sides to give location for the top
than a passing resemblance to dough- decking base, but these must end just
nuts, and to find the correct ones in even short of the cockpit otherwise they will
the most comprehensive spares box is a interfere with the internal detail.
tall order. My eventual solution was the The fuselage sides are now
gently bent
use of wheels from an Airfix kit of the between the fingers untilthey follow the
Boeing 747 Jumbo Jet. These are the contours of the plan view, and the bot-
correct diameter but too thin so it is tom sheet is treated in a similar manner
necessary to use four Jumbo wheels to to follow the base line of the fuselage as
obtain two for the Swift. Take a pair of seen in the side elevation. Once the cor-
Jumbo wheels and file one side of each of rect shape has been achieved use tube
them flat, gradually reducing the thick- cement to join one side to the bottom of
ness by about one third, then cement the the fuselage then cement the top in posi-
two together with the flat sides mating tion after having first cut it off just short
and fill any gaps agound the circumfer- of the cockpit opening. The resulting
ence with filler. Sand the tyres smooth three-sided box should now be fitted
then paint them with a mix of flat black with two bulkheads, one just aft of the
and sea grey medium to obtain that cockpit and the other at the nose, make
grey/black tint which tyres have. Wheel sure these do not distort the fuselage
centres should be painted a dull metallic shape which should be checked with a
silver. set square before they are finally
The fuselage is a combination of the cemented in position.
box and moulded method fully detailed Before fixing the remaining side add
in the general section of this chapter, cockpit detail which consists of a control
being made of a basic box which extends stick, rudder pedals, bucket-type seat,
to the top longeron and forward to the throttle and a map holder which is
front cowling, with a moulded top deck- located on the port side. Seat straps and
ing which includes the cockpit opening, control wires from the stick and rudder
completed with moulded bottom and pedals can also be added from stretched
front cowlings. sprue at this stage.
Start by cutting out two sides from 30 Colour detail for the cockpit interior is
thou plastic card extending their length hard to pin down so either mid-grey or a
so that they are longer by about '/s inch grey-green could well be right. How-
at the front end which fits into the cowl- ever, use a little artistic licence and do

153
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

not paint these colours too dark a tone ence to the plan will indicate that there is
otherwise a gloomy interior will result. a rectangular panel set inside the bottom
When satisfied with the interior detail, cowling. This is best simulated by cut-
cement the other side in position but do ting away a rectangular hole in the cowl-
not forget to paint its interior side first. ing which is to be used, then from a sec-
The top moulding for the fuselage is ond moulding, remove a panel slightly
made as a one piece moulding, ignoring larger which is cemented inside the orig-
at this stage the cockpit opening and inal. Once this has been accomplished,
wing location. The male mould is carved test the part to the fuselage and if it is
fit

from a suitably sized piece of balsa wood OK cement it in position. The front
and must be slightly undersize to allow cowling is now fitted after a suitable test
for the thickness of the plastic card that run. These two cowlings will be very
is to be used for the final shape. During thin so cement must be used sparingly
the carving constantly check your work otherwise damage will result. Once the
against the existing fuselage box to be fuselage components have all set, panel
sure of absolute accuracy. When satis- lines are scored in place from the front
fied that the shape is correct, cut out the cowling to the wing leading edge, and
female mould and proceed with the rivets are simulated by rotating a small
moulding as already described; it is a rat tail file between the fingers so that
good idea to produce a couple of spares minute raised rings are formed on the
just in case any errors are made during cowlings.
the following work. A plastic card block %
inch long is
Ensure that the moulding is a good now made from laminated sheets and
level fit along the top longeron then cut cemented in position where the top
out the cockpit opening and wing loca- coaming was cut off at the tail. When this
tion point just forward of the cockpit, has firmly set carved to the distinc-
it is
using the already completed wing to tive concave shape where the rear fuse-
check the fit as the cutting proceeds. lage meets the leading edge of the tail-
The instrument panel is now made, plane. The stringers that are prominent on
painted to represent varnished wood, the top decking are reproduced by
and cemented into position, where it also cementing strips of stretched sprue in the
serves as a bulkhead for the fuselage correct positions with liquid cement as
coaming. The cockpit is edged with a was done on the tailplane and rudder.
leather surround and this is simulated by The fuselage is now complete but
slicing a suitable sized piece of plastic- there is one major task still to be accom-
coated electric wire, so that it forms a plished and in many ways this is the har-
channel section. This is carefully trim- dest part of the model: the Pobjoy
med to fit and then secured in place with engine. This part is made by using one
matt varnish. row of the 14-cylinder contained in the
Position the completed moulding on Life-Like (Impact) kit of the Fairey
the bottom half of the fuselage and with a Flycatcher. As it comes in the kit the
sharp knife slice off the front at the point engine is too large in diameter so the first
where it will meet the front cowling. step is to reduce this by cutting off each
Similarly slice off the rear of the decking cylinder head at the point where the fin-
at a point % inch in front of the tailplane ning diameter increases. File down each
leading edge position. head on the underside reducing their
The shaped plastic card which was used length by about half then re-cement them
for the top of the fuselage box and cut off back on to the cylinder barrels. The front
level with the rear of the cockpit, is now crankcase, which houses the reduction
cut so that the front portion can be butt gear, is moulded in two parts: the main
jointed to the forward bulkhead where it crankcase, which is a circular domed
is supported by an angle bracket of plas- shape, and the top part which is also cir-
tic card. The top fuselage moulding is cular but more pointed in outline. Once
then cemented into position on the box these parts are moulded, a semi-circular
section and the assembly placed on one hole is cut out of the main crankcase and
side to set. the top part is seated into this, the
Attention is now turned to the front assembly is then backed by a square of
and bottom cowlings, the moulds for 20 thou plastic card to which they are
which are again carved from balsa then fitted with liquid cement, this being cut
moulded in 10 thou plastic card. Refer- to shape after the glue has dried. The

154
SCRATCH-BUILDING

155
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

ribbing around the crankcase is pro- engine is now completed apart from any
duced by gently scoring with the point of wiring and other accessories you may
a sharp modelUng knife, then a hole is wish to add from stretched sprue. It
drilled through the nose
of the top takes a long time to produce this engine
pointed part. Through hole is
this but the result is well worth all the effort
inserted a piece of round sprue or plastic as it forms a vital focal point on the
rod which forms a spindle for the propel- model.
ler. The propeller is carved from lamina-
The circular row of securing bolts tions of veneer and the boss drilled to
around the top of the crankcase are accept the spindle previously inserted
formed by cementing minute pieces of into the crankcase moulding. The spin-
circular sprue into the relevant positions, ner is made from moulded
plastic card
then the whole crankcase assembly is but not necessary to carve a male
it is
cemented to the cylinder block. The fin- mould as the point of a suitable sized
ned component which protrudes from component from a kit can be used; the
the crankcase between the bottom two spinner of a 1:72 scale Airfix Sunderland
cylinders is a cylinder taken from the is ideal for this mould if one is available.
Airfix RE 8 kit, and the pipe that runs Before fitting it to the propeller polish it
from this to the rear of the engine is with Rub "rt Buff or paint it silver to
stretched sprue. At this stage it is best to obtain a polished appearance. The pro-
paint the cylinders and crankcase. mak- peller is held in place on ths spindle by
ing sure that the latter has a slightly more windings of stretched sprue which forms
shiny finish than the former. While the a circular collar, these being held in
paint is drying, prepare seven inlet pipes place by a touch of liquid cement.
and the exhaust collector nng wnicn also Undercarriage components are made
has the same number of outlet pipes. The from 1 mm
diameter plastic rod. and
exhaust ring is made from sprue of the consist of an inverted 'U" which passes
correct diameter bent to shape in the through the "V shaped openings on the
heat from a candle fiame. This is prob- fuselage, two radius rods, and two axles.
ably one of the hardest tasks of the whole The axles are bent so that the wheels
construction and requires much patience have a very slight 'toe-in" when viewed
and perseverance as well as a good sup- from the front. The streamlined fairings
ply of sprue, as it is very unlikely that over the axles are formed from 50 thou
success will be achieved first time. When plastic card bent over the axles and held
satisfied that the cylinder heads fit cor- with bulldog clips until the cement is set.
rectly to the collector ring and the there are then trimmed to shape. The
exhaust pipes have been drilled out. final job before painting and assembly of
assemble the complete engine and let it allthe components, is to make the "V"
dry really hard before painting the shaped wing support struts from 30 thou
exhausts a light rusty brown colour. The sheet. These are simply cut out with a

The Coinper Swift in the form modelled by Tony Woollett and described in full in the
text.This is an early photo of a 75/80hp Popjoy-engined version as it appeared in 1932.
The Comper Aircraft Company badge, complete with 'Swift', can be seen Just forward of
the leading edge strut (Flight).

56
 SCRATCH-BUILDING

The Comper Swift G-ABJR modelled completely from scratch in plastic card. The
fuselage lettering is Let rase t and the wing codes are hand-painted. Model by Tony
Woollett (photo by John Carter).

sharp knife then sanded to aerofoil sec- When all the components have been
tion. painted and lettered final assembly of the
Once all the components have dried model is carried out. This is done by first
and are they are all painted in
set rigidly cementing the wings into position on the
the colours of the scheme you have fuselage, remembering to carefully
decided upon. A list of colours offered scrape away any paint where the join is
by the Comper Aircraft Company in to take place. Allow these to set then add
their original sales brochure is appended the support struts from the fuselage to
at the end of this chapter. the wing undersurfaces. Cement the tail-
The only problem likely to occur at plane and fin and rudder in position mak-
this stage the painting of the registra-
is ing sure that they are lined up vertically
you do not feel capable of
tion letters. If and horizontally to each other and the
hand-painting these, 'Yeoman' transfers fuselage centre-line. Control wires
or Letraset of the right style and size can which emerge from the fuselage are
be used, these being 14 inch for the fuse- made from sprue and cemented to con-
lage and one inch for the wings. trol horns on the rudder. The tailplane
struts are now fitted, these having been
A not her fine example of scratch-building cut from 20 thou plastic card and sanded
time Tony Woollett 's
in'plastic card, this to aerofoil section, during one of the
Miles Sparrow Hawk in 1:36 scale (photo periods of waiting for other parts to dry.
by John Carter). The undercarriage assembly is started
by feeding the inverted 'U' shaped piece
through the fuselage locating holes and
cementing in place with liquid cement.
The axles and radius rods are fitted using
the same adhesive and the model is then
propped up so that no weight is on the
undercarriage until it has set.
Wheel centres are drilled out with a
fine drill or dental burr and cemented in
position making sure that they have the
"toe-in" mentioned earlier. The engine
and propeller assembled is now fixed in
place with liquid cement making sure
that the top cylinder is absolutely verti-
cal.

157
 MAKING MODEL AIRCRAFT

Swift in flight, the doughnut-shaped wheels being very evident (Flight).

The finishing touches include the addi- beading; Rudder, pillar box red with
tion of aileron control horns and wires white trailing edge and Gold beading;
from plastic card and sprue which is also Mainplane, white with red leading edge
used to fabricate the tail skid. and Gold beading; Tailplane, white with
The Comper Swift is now complete red leading edge and Gold beading;
and the true reward of your endeavours Strake line, white with Gold beading;
is the knowledge that almost every part Fuselage letters, white with Gold bead-
has emanated from your skills and the ing; Mainplane letters, pillar box red. No
basic raw materials that were available 2 — As No only substitute dark blue
1

to you. It will be a model with its own for pillar box red. No 3 —
As No only 1

character and unlike a kit will be the only substitute powder blue for pillar box red.
one of its type, since however many are Any one of the above colour schemes
made from these instructions they are all included in the list price to choice.
bound to be different in some respect as
each individual has found his own ways Comper Swift known colour schemes
of tackling the problems discussed. G-ABUU — New in 1932, Royal Blue
The following the specification as it
is
letters outlined in gold. Aircraft white;
appeared in the Swift sales brochure 1933, pale blue, white letters outlined in
which was released at the time the air- gold; 1960. cream aircraft with red let-
craft made its debut: ters; 1963. red aircraft, black letters out-
lined in gold; 1968. ivory aircraft, tur-
The Comper 'Swiff, price, equipment quoise letters outlined in silver.
and colour schemes. VT-ADO — As new. red fuselage,
Price £550 ex works. white letters, white wings, red letters;
The following equipment is included in struts and undercarriage legs, front half
the above price: Instruments —
air speed white, rear red; 'The Scarlet Angel" in
indicator, oil pressure gauge. Altimeter, script on front cowling; "(G-ACTF in
revolution counter, petrol gauge. Cross 1950 all silver with red trim).
level, clock; Accessories —
cockpit G-ABUS —Pre-war in Shell colours.
cover, picket screws, suitcase, notebook All red with green letters outlined in
and pencil, engine cover, dipstick, map gold; post-war. all black with gold and
case, notebook container, full set of latterly silver lettering; 'Black Magic' on
tools, tool tray, safety belt, owner's cowling.
name plate, full set of log books. G-ABWE — New, white with red let-
Choice of colour schemes: No — ters outlined in gold.
—
1

Fuselage, pillar box red; Fin, pillar box VH-ACG All silver with polished
red with white leading edge and Gold cowling and Royal Blue letters.

158
 appendix one

Magazines of interest
to aircraft modellers
The following magazines are a few of Ltd, Terminal House, Shepperton,
those that are available and will prove TW17 8AS. England.
invaluable to he serious enthusiast. Flii>ht International (Weekly). IPC Ltd,
Some of them are specifically for model- Dorset House, Stamford Street.
lers while others have only a minor sec- London, SEl 9LU, England.
tion devoted to modelling, and a few are Air International (Monthly). Ducimus
devoted entirely to the study of full-size Books Ltd. DeWorde House. 283
aircraft. Lonsdale Road, London. SW13 9QW,
England.
Air Pictorial (Monthly). Cobure House,
Airfi.x Muiiozine (Monthly). PSL Sheet Street, Windsor, Berks, SL4 lEB.
Publications Ltd, Bar Hill. Cambridge, England.
CB3 8EL. England. Flui^zeui^ Illitstriert (Monthlv). D-5142
Scale Models (Monthly). Model & Huckelhoven, Postfach 1209, West
Allied Publications Ltd, PO Box 35, Germanv.
Bridge Street, Hemel Hempstead, Scale (Monthly). Goller Verlag, 7570
Hert^s. HPl lEE. England. Baden-Baden. Postfach 240,
Moclell-Fan (Monthly). D-2800 Bremen Hauptstrasse 4, West Germany.
1. Postfach 919, West Germany. Air Classics (Monthly). Address as for
Scale Modeller (Monthly). Challenge Scale Modeller.
Publications, 7950 Deering Avenue. Aviation AVit'.v (Fortnightly). 2
Canoga Park, California 91304. USA. Sheepfold Lane, Amersham, Bucks,
Aircraft Illustrated (Monthly). Ian Allan England.

159
 appendix two

Mail order model shops

Although most medium and large towns Polk's Hobby Stores, 314 Fifth Avenue
have either model shops or shops that (Cor 32nd St), New York 10001, USA.
sell models in addition to other goods, VHF Supplies, Noble Corner, Great
there are some items that they do not West Road, Hounslow. Middlesex,
stock. Many of these items have been TW5 OPA, England.
mentioned in this book and they are Frank-Modellbau. Obere Vorstadt 21.
usually obtainable by mail from one of 7470 Alstadt-Ebingen West Germany.
1 .

the shops listed below who specialise in Intermodell, 6551 Hargesheim 3a, West
this type of trading. When writing to any Germany.
of these establishments always include a Modell & Hobby, Werner Ehe,
stamped and self-addressed envelope for Sophienblatt 50 B, 2300 Kiel, West
a reply. Germany.
Intermodell Hobby Shop, 1000 Berlin
BMW Models, 327-329 Haydons Road, 12, 12 Sybelstrasse 40, West Germany.
Wimbledon, London SW19, England. The Squadron Shop, 23500 John R
Modeltoys, 246 Kingston Road. Hazel Park, Michigan 48030, USA.
Portsmouth, Hants, England. Archers Hobby World, 1984 North
Ernest Berwick Ltd, 11a Newland Tustin, Orange, California 92665, USA.
Street, Kettering, Northants, NN16 Burnaby Hobbies, 5209 Rumble St,
8JH, England. Burnaby BC, Canada V5J 2B7.
Modelmark. 33 Plashet Grove. Upton
Park, London E6, England.
Bridge Models, 1-2 Station Parade, There are many other suppliers who
Hoe Street Bridge. Walthamstow. advertise regularly in the magazines listed
London El 7. England. in Appendix 1, but the above have all
Jones Bros of Chiswick. 56 Turnham supplied the author at some time or
Green Terrace. Chiswick, London W4, another and have given first-class
England. service.

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