G R AS S E R AT E L I E R

GRSR.669
SKIRT

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY

01 02 03 04 05

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CONTENT
PART PAGE

MODEL DESCRIPTION 05

EASES, SEAM ALLOWANCES

AND MAIN MEASUREMENTS
OF THE PATTERN 06

MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMPTION 07

GARMENT PIECES, CUTTING OUT 08

SEWING ORDER 09

01. Preliminary steps 09

02. Sewing Instructions 10

03. Finishing waist edge with an elastic

band 12

04. Garment hemline 14

SEWING TERMS 15

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MODEL DESCRIPTION

Lined below knee, low volume skirt of a trapezoid silhouette is cut on the bias (45 degree angle to the straight
grain). Skirt upper edge is finished with elastic band, which is folded to the inside of the garment.

You have two options.

— First option: cutting a skirt with a back middle seam (one-piece - 1 detail). Pattern № 669.
— Second option: cutting a skirt with side seams (front and back parts of skirt - 2 details). Pattern № 669_2.

PLEASE NOTE THAT FOR SIZES 54 AND 56 IS AVAILABLE

ONLY OPTION №2 (WITH 2 SIDE SEAMS).

WHAT IS A BIAS CUT:

01. When the detail is cut at a diagonal angle, it will stretch lengthwise, whereas its width will decrease.
02. Garments cut on the bias appear softer and more fluid than those cut on the lengthwise grain.
03. Pieces cut on the bias to the straight grain, will give more stretch than those cut to the crosswise grain.
04. Bias cut detail must be handled with care to keep it from stretching (too much) permanently
out of shape.

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ADDITIONAL
SEAM ALLOWANCES AND MAIN
GARNENT MEASUREMENTS
WEARING EASE OF A GARMENT, CM

Measuring sector The amount of ease

Tight fitting with the help of elastic, light gathering (7cm)
Waist-line along the skirt upper edge that is fitted on the elastic
band.
Hips-line * 2.0 cm + design enlargement

* AS OUR GARMENT IS BIAS CUT, THERE WILL BE NO EASE AT THE HIP AREA WHEN
THE SKIRT IS READY-MADE.

GARMENT LENGTH MEASUREMENTS, CM

Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

Garment length along the back middle 78,0- 78,2- 78,4- 78,6- 78,8- 79,0- 79,2- 79,4- 79,6- 79,8-
seam when the skirt is ready-made 84,0 84,2 84,4 84,6 84,8 85,0 85,2 85,4 85,6 85,8

FOR PERSONAL TASTE, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE ALTERATIONS TO ADJUST THE LENGTH
AND VOLUME OF THE PIECES BEFORE CUTTING.

GARMENT SEAM ALLOWANCES, MM

Stitching seam allowances 10

Seam allowances to overcast details 10

Garment hem seam allowances 10

IF YOU ARE NOT HAPPY WITH OUR GIVEN SEAM ALLOWANCES,

PLEASE ADD YOUR OWN WHILE CUTTING THE PATTERN PIECES.

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MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT
AND CONSUMABLE
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
01. Standard sewing machine; 06. Hand needle for basting;
02. An iron with or without steam; 07. Machine needles №80 and №70;
03. Regular presser foot; 08. Paper scissors;
04. Wooden iron; 09. Scissors for textile cutting.
05. Ironing board;

FABRICS AND MATERIALS

MAIN FABRIC
YOU CAN
For this particular garment we recommend to use well draping fluid delaine fab- PURCHASE
rics with no stretch and average density - silk, crepe, charmeuse, georgette, THREADS AND
crepe de chine, atlas silk. The fabric content can be natural like silk or viscose, or NEEDLES IN
synthetic man-made fibers. OUR STORE

THREADS

01. For hand stitching we recommend using white cotton or polyester sew- NUMBERING
ing threads No40 or No45 - 1 spool. DEPENDS ON THE
02. For machine stitching on the main fabric, use polyester threads No50 PRODUCER
or No45 - 1 spool for the sewing machine.

CONSUMABLE, М
Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

Main fabric, wide 150 cm 1,35- 1,40- 1,45- 1,50- 1,55- 1,60- 1,65- 1,70-
-- --
(OPTION 1 - 1 seam) 1,45 1,50 1,55 1,55 1,65 1,70 1,75 1,80

Main fabric, wide 150 cm 1,55- 1,60- 1,70- 1,75- 1,80- 1,85- 1,90- 1,95- 2,05- 2,10-
(OPTION 2 - 2 seams) 1,65 1,70 1,80 1,85 1,90 1,95 2,00 2,05 2,15 2,20

Elastic band, 3.0-4.0 cm wide 1,20 1,30 1,40 1,50 1,60 1,70 1,80 1,90 2,00 2,10

THE USAGE OF ALL NEEDED MATERIALS IS CALCULATED AS THE AVERAGE,

ACCORDING TO 4 MAIN HEIGHT TYPES.

ALSO, A LITTLE EXTRA FABRIC (COMPULSORY!) IS INCLUDED

IN CASE OF FABRIC SHRINKAGE (10-15 CM).

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GARMENT DETAILS
AND CUTTING
OPTION 1

PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC,

WIDE 150 CM

Sizes 38–56
LIST OF DETAILS:

01. Skirt – 1 detail.

WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
OF FABRIC,
PLACE THEM
ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER,
WITH RIGHT SIDE
FACING DOWN

OPTION 2

PATTERN PIECES LAYOUT OF THE MAIN FABRIC,

WIDE 150 CM

Sizes 38–56
LIST OF DETAILS:

01. Skirt – 2 details.

WHEN CUTTING
PATTERN PIECES
OF FABRIC,
PLACE THEM
ON A SINGLE
FABRIC LAYER,
WITH RIGHT SIDE
FACING DOWN

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SEWING
SUCCESSION
Option 1 - 1 seam Option 2 - 2 seams
Elastic band Elastic band

Centre
seam
Side
seam

Front part Front part Back part

PRELIMINARY STEPS

TOILE CUTTING AND SEWING

01. We recommend making a toile garment to test out a pattern before the actual fabric is used.
02. Toile is normally made from a cheaper but similar fabric.
03. Baste the toile for fitting. Baste elastic.

FITTING THE LAYOUT

01. Put on your toile garment.

02. Check the balance of the toile. The hip line should be parallel to the floor.
03. Adjust garment proportions if needed.
04. Adjust garment length.
05. Make changes simultaneously, working on both sides, to avoid narrowing and distortion of the design.
06. Transfer all pattern changes from toile to pattern.

FABRIC PREPARATIONS BEFORE CUTTING. CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

01. If your fabric content is synthetic, press it without steam. If the content is natural, wet the fabric.
02. Position your pattern pieces according to layout instructions.
03. Cut out the pieces.

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PATTERN PIECES PREPARATION BEFORE SEWING

01. Transfer the main pattern markings onto all garment details.
02. Baste garment details for fitting. Although we had a toile test fitting before, it is necessary to have another
one. Unlike muslin, main fabric fitting will show you all the essential and unique garment nuances.

TEST YOUR FABRIC

01. Do a test machine stitching on a fabric.

02. Pierce it with a needle.
03. Press and steam your fabric.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
01.Cut two pieces of elastic matching your
waist measurement. Try on these elas-
tics around your waist, adjusting the fit
to suit your particular size. Cut of extra
length, minding seam allowances.
02. Attach elastic to the upper edge of the
skirt pieces.

TASK:
That length difference needs to be shrunk and gathered with hot iron in relation to the elastic length.

NOTE:
That technique would remove gathering at the waistline.

03. To do that, hand stitch (basting) along

the edge. Slightly gather by pulling the
threads. Evenly distribute your gather-
ing.

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04. Make another row of basting hand

stitches. Gather again in relation to the
first gathered line of stitching.
05. Shrink by using the hot iron (without
steam).

NOTE:
As the upper edge is bias cut, it would
make it easier to shrink the area with
the iron. Let the fabric cool down. Don’t
remove basting stitches.

06. Side seams need to be stitched with double seam. To do that:

— Place the details together with the

wrong sides in. Even side seams.
— Joinside seams with machine stitch-
ing, leaving 0,3 cm to the edge. If
possible, trim seam allowances, mak-
ing them 0,2 cm.
— Press without steam.

— Turn the details inside out, so the

seam allowances are located inside.
Straighten stitched edge. Do rein-
forcing basting stitching.

— Stitch together, leaving 0,7 cm to the edge.

NOTE:
Check the quality of stitching from the right side. The inner seam allowance shouldn’t be noticable. Press
seam allowances without steam.

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07. Stitch both ends of one elastic piece, making

an elastic ring. Do the same with the second
elastic band. Press seam allowances open.
For the time being, fix seam allowances by
pressing them with some sort of weight.

08. Divide elastic into 4 equal parts and mark them.

FINISHING WAIST EDGE WITH AN ELASTIC BAND

01. Place one elastic band to the upper edge,

joining garment and elastic’s wrong sides
together. This elastic band will be the inner
one.
02. Pin or baste elastic edge, joining togeth-
er elastic main markings with garment main
markings and the seam.

03. Stitch on elastic band with the stretching, us-

ing zig-zag stitch and leaving 0,5 cm to the
edge.

04. On the right side of the garment, attach the

outer elastic band to the upper edge. While
doing that, join together the right side of
the garment with the wrong side of elastic.
Therefore, the upper edge of the skirt will
appear between two elastic bands.

05. Pin or baste elastic edge, leaving 0,2 cm to the lower edge of the inner elastic band. Join together elastic
main markings with garment main markings and the seam.

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06. Stitch on elastic band with the stretching,

using zig-zag stitch, along the lower edge
of the outer elastic band. Seam allowance
is located between elastic bands.

07. Along the upper edge, fix together elas-

tics using zig-zag stitch.
08. Press the waistline area without steam.

09. Bend elastics to the wrong side, so they

are covered with the fabric.
10. Only press the upper edge of the garment
using press cloth.

NOTE:
Elastic needs to be stretched on a wood-
en iron during the pressing.

GARMENT HEMLINE

01. Try on the garment. Note the unevenness

at the hem edge.
02. Level your hem by measuring the distance
from the floor to your pin, and then trim
off any excess fabric.

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03. Finish the hem edge with ‘Moscow’ stitch.

— Fold hem seam allowance to the wrong
side up to 0,7 cm wide.
— Stitch along, leaving 0,2 cm to the fold-
ed edge.

TIP:
leave relatively long tails of threads at
the end of the stitching and leave them
on the right side. Trim seam allowances,
leaving 0,1 cm to the stitching line.

— Press, avoiding stretching of the hem.

— Fold hem seam allowance once again.
Machine stitch again, trying to match
the first row of stitching.
TIP:
hold the long threads, to help put the
second row of stitching.

04. Press, avoiding stretching of the hem.

05. Pull the threads on the wrong side and
knot the ends by hand.
06. Press the garment.
The skirt is ready.

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SEWING TERMS
STITCH Join together similar details. Place the pieces together with the right sides facing
each other. Even the edges. And join them by machine stitching according to the
given seam allowances measurements.

ATTACH OR SEW Attach or sew on details that differ in size, using a machine stitch.
(STITCH) ON

FINISHING EDGES Joining two details together, which are later turned inside out. The seam allowances
WITH FACING are remaining inside, whereas the seam runs along the edge of the joined pieces.

TO STITCH IN Means stitching garment details together around their edges.

TO STITCH ON Means fixation of a small detail to the right face of a bigger detail.

TO STITCH UP Means stitching to fix folded edges, pleats, darts, pin-tucks.

REINFORCING Stitch that reinforces the inner side of the garment. It is done on the right side. The
TOPSTITCH stitch is added strictly on top of the stitched line where the details are sewn togeth-
er, so it is not visible on the right side of the design.

BASTE Temporary join details, using hand baste stitching. Stitch length - 0,5 or 1 cm.

BASTE ON Temporary attach small detail to the main one, using baste stitching.

REINFORCING Temporary reinforces folded seam allowance with hand stitches.

BASTING STITCH

DIAGONAL BASTING Is a series of temporary parallel, horizontal stitches that produce diagonal floats of
thread on the top layer of fabric.

SLIP STITCHES Are hand stitches that are used for invisible securing details between each other
both from the wrong and right sides of the garment.

BASTE INTO THE Place the seam allowances into the opposite sides and fix the seam allowances with
OPPOSITE SIDES the insu-lation material by using diagonal stitches.

WET-HEAT PRO- Means ironing with steam garment itself or only it’s one certain area.
CESSING

PRESS FLAT Reduce seam or fold thickness by applying pressure with hot iron.

IRON OUT Means forwarding seam allowances to same garment’s part.

PRESS OPEN Use the tip of the iron to press the seam allowance open and press it well so each
seam allowance is on the two sides of the seam.

PRESS TO SHRINK Is to reduce excess fullness on the determined area using the steam iron to give it
shape.

STRETCHING Is used to make a detail’s edge longer and concave.

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