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Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
NECCHI
Ill

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Dear Madam,
this booklet contains instructions for the use and main tenance of the
NECCHI 555

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the very latest model designed and brought into being by NECCHI to give women
the world over a sewing machine which is at the same time complete and simple.
By following these instruct.ions you will find it easy to use your NECCHI and
achieve all the marvellous work it is able to perform.
By Jooking after its maintenance according to these instructions, you will be
sure to have your machine smoctth-running, accurate and ready-to-use at any
moment.
Furthermore, you will always have at your entire disposal, the most valuable
help a woman could wish for: the NECCHI SERVICE. At all NECCHI shops, you
can get at any moment assistance, advice, suggestions on the use of the sewing
machine, new ideas in elegance and all the accessories indispensable to your
needlework.

You too, like millions of women throughout the world, will be happy and proud
to be able t~ say: c My sewing machine i~ a NECCH/! •.
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
Jamproof OSCILLATING SHUTTLE, with particular silent movement due to the
race plate in highly resisting plastic.

Ca n ta ct UPPER THREAD TENSION adjustable with easy to read graduati on knob.

finger s Reve rse Ba lance wheel
Design o pe ning s ewi ng disconnecting PRESSURE OF PRESSER FOOT adjustable with knob placed unde r face plate.
Face plate Thread guides graduating knob lever push-button knob
STITCH LENGTH REGULATION KNOB easy to turn, with clea rly visible grad-
Thread uation.
·take-up Automatic Bo bbin
lever mechanism lid

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Spool pins winder REVERSE SEWING PUSH-BUTTON for sewing in reverse by push ing button R
placed above stitch length regulation knob, which returns automatically.

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DISCONNECTION OF BALANCE WHEEL for winding the bobbin, by rotating
Presser
foot disconnecting knob.
lever
BOBBIN WINDER placed frontally, with automatic stop.

~
TWO-SPEED MOTOR adjustable with switch and foot-control·.
BUil T-IN LIGHT placed under the face plate to illuminate only working area.

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Balance
ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL by means of a practical lever which is used also
wheel for non -automatic embroidery.
ZIGZAG LIMITERS to set the zigzag width lever in a pre-established position
or to limit movement.
DOUBLE AUTOMATIC MECHANISM for ornamental designs, embroidery, darn-
ing, buttonholes etc.
Bobbin
winder BUTTONHOLE DEVICE controlled by means of a removable cam with handle.
thread
Built-in light Needle plate Zigzag limiters Stitch length tension DESIGN GRADUATING KNOB to lengthen and shorten designs without alter•
regulating
knob ing stitch density.

SI Ide plate Upper thread tension Zigzag width

lever
Drop-feed button
NEEDLE PLATE circular for three different types of stitches.
NEEDLE POSITION LEVER for three different sewing positions (left, centre, right). l
KNOB FOR MINUTE ADJUSTMENT OF DESIGNS al lows micrometrical adjust-
ments of feed.
Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
1. TO ENSURE PERFECT FUNTIONING OF MACHINE

• Balance wheel must always be turned toward the operator.

• Do not operate the machine with presser foot resting on feed dog unless there
is cloth in between.
• Keep a sma II piece of cloth underneath presser foot whenever the machine is
not in use.

·Keep the machine clean and do not forget to lubricate it periodically using
NECCHIOIL only.

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I

2. TO CONNECT MACHINE TO WALL OUTLET .

WARNING: Before connecting the machine to wall outlet, make sure that local
voltage and frequency (which can be read on the electric meter) correspond to

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those appearing on the machine rating plate.
Check this whenever the ma·
chine is moved from a town
to another.
If voltages differ, apply to
a NECCHI dealer or an
electrician.
To connect the machine to
"' w a 11 outlet, proceed as
follows:

• insert tap A into 2 • w_ay

receptacle of rheostat,
• insert p I u g B into the
socket of the wall outlet
c.
3
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
3. TO START MACHINE 6. RECOMMENDED NEEDLE AMO THREAD SIZES

- The machine is provided with a double- ALWAYS USE NECCHI NEEDLES SYST. 130/ 705
switch to reduce the sewing speed without
The choice of the suitable needle and thread is most important for a correct
foot-control regulation.
sewing.
Pushing switch M from one extreme to For very light fabrics it is advisable to use fine needles and very fine threads;
the other means changing from high (MAX) for heavy fabrics, on the other hand, we recommend using strong needles and
to low (MIN) sewing-speed. threads.
- Start machine by pressing on foot control. For the choice of the needle and thread, please refer to the following table:
The sewing-speed can be varied accord-

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ing to the pressure upon the foot-control.
Machine
- In order to avoid the overheating of the foot-control, it is a~visable to switch Types of fabric and classes of work !embroidery I Mercerl~1Synthetlc,Schappe1Real sllk,I Size of
cotton ed cotton thread silk cordonnet needle

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to MIN if low speed is desi.red during a longer sewing period.

Very fine fabrics for lingerie:

4. LIGHTING chiffon, batiste, muslin, etc. 50 80-100 \40 70

- The light is turned on and off by means of switch L situated beside the two- Fine fabrics: for shirting,

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speed motor switch. aprons, sheeting, pillow. ca-
ses, summer dresses,etc. 30 50 120 100 80-90

Medium fabrics: for men's

suit in gl cretonne, brocade,
quilts, upholstery. 40 70 70 90
1y
Medium - heavy fabrics:
5. TO INSERT NEEDLE
overalls, smocks, trousers ,
blankets,bed ticking,awnings,.
• Bring needle bar to its highest position by J closely woven fabrics, etc. 30 50 60 3 100
turning balance wheel towards you. I
- Loosen needle clamp screw.
Heavy fabrics: canvas, sacks,
- Insert needle into needle clamp in such a bags, etc, 24 30 40 5 110
manner that the flat side of the shank is
turned towards the right of the machine.
- Push needle up as far as it wi II go and
tighten the screw with a screwdriver. .... The numbers of.the various ·t hreads may change from one country to the other

4 5
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
A 7. TO THREAD MACHINE 9. TO WIND EMPTY BOBBIN
- Raise presser foot by lifting
presser bar lever.
- Turn the balance wheel towards
you by hand,bringing the needle
bar to its highest position.
- Thread the machine by follow-
ing the scheme shown on the
figure.
After having passed thread

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between tension discs housing,
Z1 0
hold thread with right hand

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thumb against thread guide A
I C
while pulling thread with your
left hand slightly upwards so i
"' 8 that it pulls up spring B and
places itself astride of hook
D.
Pass thread through needle eye

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from left to right leaving about
4 inches hanging free.

8. TO THREAD NEEDLE
WITH THREADER

• Bring the needle to its highest position and - Disconnect balance wheel P by holding it with a hand and by turning knurl-
the take.Up lever in correspondence with ed knob Q in the direction of the arrow .
guide line on face plate. - Pass thread through points indicated in the illustration.
• Bring knob R downward unti I hook S - Insert bobbin on bobbin-winder spindle.
passes through the eye of the needle.
- Wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin.
• Place the thread on hook S and move knob
R away from needle; the hook will pull the - Push bobbin - winder spindle towards balance whee I and start the motor.
thread through the need le eye while the - Bobbin will stop automatically when ·filled.
needle threader, having ac;complished its
- Push bobbin-winder spindle to the left, remove bobbin and reconnect balance
task, wi II be dragged upward by a spring.
wheel by fastening knob Q.

6
7
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10. TO REMOVE BOBBIN CASE · 13. TO DRAW BOBBIN THREAD

- Lift presser foot.

- Turn balance wheel by hand and
bring needle bar to its highest ~ I:= .,__,,
point. =
- Move slide plate to the left,
j
- Remove bobbin case by lifting
latch H and pulling it to the left.
- The bobbin will drop out when the

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latch is te leased. 1

If you downloaded this from anywhere

H
2 i
11. TO INSERT BOBBIN I

INTO BOBBIN CASE ¢:::J - Raise presser foot.

• Hold the thread coining out of the
·Keep turning balance wheel until
thread take· up lever reaches its
needle with your left hand, and turn highest position.
- Insert bobbin into bobbi.n case in such a balance wheel towards you with your
manner that the bobbin flange provided right hand; in order that needle

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with holes i.s turned toward the descends to its lowest position.
inside of the bobbin case.
- Insert thre.ad into groove of bobbin case.
- Lift latch H so that bobbin is blocked
and d~aw thread under tension spring as
indicated, leaving about 4 inches of
thread hon gi ng out.
l
·1
12. TO INSERT BOBBIN CASE
INTO SHUTTLE
{
- By turning balance wheel by hand, bring
needle bar to its highest point.
- Move ·s Iide plate to the left.
R
- l'nsert bobbin case by latch H on centre stud .of shuttle. Finger M must go
into notch of shuttle ring. 3 4
- Release latch H and press on bobbin case unti I a click is heard. • Pull the thread held in your left hand • Carry the ends of both threads under-
until the lower thread comes out of neath and behind the foot.
- Let about 4 inches of thread hanging out. the hole of the needle plate,

8
9
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
o~
14. TO REGULATE PRESSURE OF PRESSER FOOT • If the needle and bobbin threads
lock between the . fabric layers:
- The pressure of presser foot is tensions are correctly adjusted.

A~ regulated by turning dial A.

The number visible towards face
©
plate indicates pressure value.
(. Normally the pressure adjusted on
4 or 5 is about right for ordinary sew- - If the threads lock on right side
ing.
- To increase the pressure turn
of fabriC, needle thread tension
is too tight.
Loosen it by turning the knob t@

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towards higher numbers. in the direction of the arrow.
- To decrease the pressure, turn

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towards lower numbers.

- If threads lock on wrong side of

fabric, tension is too loose. t~~
. -M-

Tighten it by turning knob in

the direction of the arrow.
E P

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NOTE: When sewing on har.d or thick fabrics, it is advisable to loosen screw) E
and slightly move small plate P in the direction of the arrow.
15. TO ADJUST TENSIONS

UPPER TENSION

- Adjust by turning button T.

l BOBBIN THREAD TENSION
The normal value of the upper tension is
obtained when the threads lock between the .. T
- The lower tension is increased by tighten-
fabric layers.
ing screw G, it is decreased by looser:iing
- Needle thread tension is increased bytum-
same.
' ing button towards higher numbers.
- lower tension should be adjusted carefully
- It is loosened by turning in the opposite di-
G since · small rotations of screw G may
rection.
considerably vary tension value.

10
11

.
- ~
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
16. TO REGULATE STITCH LEHGTH 19. THREE POSITIOH HEEDLE-PLATE
- Turn button D: the stitch length expressed in
mm. 1s visible through small window F. - The needle plate can be fitted in 3 different positions which are used as
- The stitch length normally required for satin follows:
stitch is normally found about the red square mark.
F U: for straight and zigzag sewing.
W: for straight stitch on light fabrics (nylon, silk) with the nee-
17. TO SEW IH REVERSE dle position lever B in left notch and straight stitch press-
er foot.
- For reverse sewing press the push-button
Z: for twin needle sewing.
marked R. The machine returns to straight
i

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sewing as soon as you cease pressing this
button.

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- Reverse sewing is used in general for reinforc-
ing beginning or end of seams.
I

To fit needle plate in each one of the 3 positions:

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18. TO DROP FEED DOG - Drop feed dog, bring needle to its highest position and move slide plate to the
left.
- The feed dog must be dropped for hoop - Press lever E and the
embroidery, darning and sewing on
needle plate will lift
buttons.
itself.
- Turn button P so that one of its prongs
faces the square mark Q. - Turn the needle plate
around unti I the de sir-
- Push button P down; it will remain in +
this position. ed position is under E
s needle.
- To raise feed dog, turn button P so
I Make sure that locating
that one of its prongs faces the oppo- 1
site alignment mark S. pin F enters the cor-
The feed dog will raise by itself at the responding hole in the
first stitch.
plate.
NOTE: In this position push button P - Press central pin G. The
acts as an instant switch which disen- plate will block itself
w
gages the feed dog when pressed flat automatically. u
and engages it again when released.
- Raise feed dog.

12
13
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20. STRAIGHT STITCHING
A ·Tum the balance wheel by hand
=l=======r=m:~ towards you unti I the thread take·
Zigzag width lever B: on zero.
up lever r.e aches its highest point.
0 Stitch length regu fating knob C: • Raise the presser foot.
norma I ly on n° 2.
• Remove the work.
8 u a) For normal work:
I'"'. ' c
Needle plate: position U.
Needle position lever A: any
position desired.

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11irn~··;•1111
.;;;; - ~ Presser foot: metallic for zigzag
stitching (1376393).

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b) For light or very light materials
or for sewing on borders, a better • By raising the foot, the tens ions
i
result is obtained as follows: release and th~ threads run freely.
Needle plate: position W. Removing the work comes easy.
Needle position lever A: on Threads can be cut with thread-
left. cutter T existing on the needle
- bar.

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Presser foot: metallic for straight
stitching (9560093).
• Place the materia I under the foot
in such a way that the needle
·:it
coincides with the edge of the
material and lower the foot. N.B. · The material feeds automatically under the foot with the speed correspond-
Hold the two thread ends for a ing to the stitchlength chosen. It must not be held down or pulled by hand:

~~
it should be guided gently so that the seaming results exactly as you wish.
few stitches, when sewing.

21. BASTING

- Set stitch regulation knob for the maximum stitch length and loosen upper
• To lock the stitch at the begin· thread tensio.n, by turning to lower numbers; proceed as for normal straight
ning and end of the seam, press stitching.
the reverse button and sew back
This makes it possible to effect long and loose stitches which can be easily
a few stitches.
unraveled.
14
15

....
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
22. ZIGZAG SEWING 23. ZIGZAG EMBROIDERY

Needle plate: in position U (para. The figure illustrates a few zig-

n° 19). zag embroidery motifs.
Presser foot: metallic for zigzag Others con be combined at wi 11.

-..
(1376393) or transparent foot for
I Prepare the machine as follows:
•
~
embroidery (9550865).
Needle position lever A: the line
Presser foot: transparent for ·-~~~
I embroidery. ~~~ ~~~%yg v a
~~
'..,Q,,./~
~·--
~/~.~
of stitching corresponds to the b

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"f ,,,,.M ~A-/>z ~~~ o/

lever position (left, centre or right) Thread tensions: loosen upper

~~
~~-- ~q<Y~~~fe/>,t ~ c
- see diagram below. tension and tighten . lower one:
~ ~A-

If you downloaded this from anywhere

d
A
Zigzag width lever B: place it in
the position corresponding to the
the upper thread should be visi-
ble also on the wrong side of the
material.
*•e
zigzag width desired and fasten it
with studs Mand N, at the same time Stitch length regulation knob: near the red square so that the material is
e~ ~
~0 pressing the
into position.
limiters G and H scarcely fed and the stitches touch each other without piling up.

Threads: embroidery thread n° 50.

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Stitch length regulating knob C :
adjust according to length desired. a) Satin stitch: zigzag lever B. Adjust it according to the width required.
b) Needle position lever A in the centre. Stud M (para. 22) on n° 1. Move the
M B N H
zigzag lever slowly from n° 1 to n° 5 and flip it back quickly to n° 1.

..,J""""""'W""] c--..r=i r--s::ca..

c) Zigzag lever on n° 2.5. Stud M on n° 2.5. Move the needle position lever

GF~~~~~~~
. alternately left and right, without stopping in the centre and carry out a
certain number of stitches on both positions.
- :___y
d) Zigzag lever on n° 1.5 approx. Stud M on n° 1.5. Switch the needle position
...,. lever rapidly from left notch to _centre notch and then to right notch and vice·
" versa.

e) Needle position lever in the centre. Stud M on n° 1. Stud N on n° 4. leave

the zigzag lever on· n° 1 for a certain number of stitches and then move on to
n° 5, skipping the right limiter N, and leo.ve it there for about the some

9 number of stitches.

Continue thus, alternating the two positions described.

16
17

...
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
24. CIRCULAR SEWING 26. TWIN NEEDLE SEWING

• Insert button B in one of the holes

H of slide plate A.
The twin needle makes it possible to sew with
two threads of the same colour or of different
~
• Place centre of fabric on knob B by colours.
H
means of pin C. The twin need le is to be inserted in the same
• Keep a finger on pin, when sew· manner as the normal one with the flat side of its
ing, so that the fabric revolving
around it at the centre of the design
.I shank toward the right.
Presser foot : for twin needle (9550835).
does not detach it. Needle pl~te: in position Z (para. 19) •
I

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.By moving s Iide plate A, circles 1
of various sizes can be obtained.

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The scales engraved on its edges Lower thread: it must pass through the hole in-
and the indexes engraved along dicated in figure.
the sides of its seat are usefUI as I
references to make circular sew-
ings of equal sizes.
Circular sewing should be done
only with materials possessing a

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certain body.
With lighter materials, use an embroidery hoop or place a piece of tissue paper
under fabric.

25. SEAMS PARALLEL TO EDGE "'

OF FABRIC
Thread must pass at the points
The straight guide (9450305) is us· + indicated in figure.
ed for executing seams parallel to The tension device has three
edge of fabric. discs and one of the threads
This guide is fitted on the machine must pass in front and the other
at the desired distance from needle ~ehind the larger disc.

as shown in the figure,and it is fastened

in place by tightening the knob.

18
19
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
27. HEMMING FLAT FELLED HEM

- Place a piece of fabr ic on top of the

Hems are more easily made by means of special hemming feet • . other so that their right sides face each
other. Right edge of bottom piece should
The two hems we are going to illustrate are made with straight stitch by means
protrude about 3 mm. beyond right edge
of hemming foot symb. 9000125. of top piece.
- Sew both pieces of fabric together, using
- Fold over edge of fabric about 3 mm. for a length of about 5 cm., and insert
'f the edge of hemming foot scroll as a
the fold from beneath into the scroll of presser foot. guide (a) .
- Make sure that the beginning of the hem, correctly folded, enters the scroll
-

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well, by moving fabric bock and forth.

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- Lower presser foot and start sewing, guiding fabric by hand in order to help
the materi.a l to feed through scroll properly. - Open fabrics with their edges standing
up.
- Insert edges in hemming foot scroll and
sew as for normal straight stitch hem (a).

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. 28. OVERCASTING

STRAIGHT STITCH HEMMING Needle position lever: in the centre.

<\>- Zigzag width lever: set for desired width,
Needle position lever:. in the centre. Stitch length regulation knob: as desir-
ed.
Zigzag width . lever : on. zero. Upper thread tension: normal.
Presser foot: metallic for zigzag sewing
Stitch length regulation knob: be~
(1376393).
t.,;.,een 3 and 4.
The stitches must be placed one into the
Upper thread tension: normal. material and one offside,

20 21
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
29. PICOT HEM 31. HEMSTITCHING WITH DRAWN
THREADS
Needle position /ever: in the centre.
Zigzag width /ever: between n° 1 and n° 2. Needle position lever : in the centre,
0

Stitch /ength regulating knob: between n° Zigzag width lever : between n° 1 and n° 2.
1 and n° 1.5. Stitch length regulation knob: between
Upper tension: normal. n° 1 and n° 2.
Needle: syst. n° 130. Upper t/;read tension : normal.
Make first row of stitches at about 12 mm.
Presser foot: metallic for zigzag (1376393).
from edge of fabric.
- Draw desired number o(threads from the fabric to be hemstitched and commence
Make second row in such a way that needle stitches into the outer holes of first
., sewing, making sure that the needle bites cilternately close to the edge into

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row of stitches. With sharp scissors, cut right in the middle of the two rows.
. the undrawn side of fabric and then into the space where the threads have been
NOTE : This kind of work is best done on organdy.
drawn.

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After stitching on one side of the drawn space ~as been finished, repeat same
procedure on the other side.
(

32. SEWING ON BUTTONS

30. APPLIQUE WORK
Needle position lever: on left.

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Zigzag width lever: between n° 4 and n° 5 according to the distance between the
a) CUT-OUT WORK holes of the buttons.
Baste fabric on which design (flower etc.) is sketched to fabric to which it will Feed dog: lowered.
be sewn.
Presser foot : for sewing on buttons
Start straight sewing (stitch length regulating knob on no. 1), following the outl ine of
(9550075).
design and cut away surplus material, as close as possible to the outl ine of design.
- While lowering presser foot, place the
Set machine as for satin stitch (para . 230) and sew following the outline of
button on the fabric in order that its holes
design covering the edge and straight stitches. ... are in proper position for zigzag stitch.
- Turn balance wheel by hand, checking
that needle goes through holes of button;
41-
b) LACE EDGING if needle does not clear button, change
Lever A: in centre notch. zigzag width.
Lever B: · set for desired zigzag width . - Run machine at medium speed making
Stitch length regulating knob: set for desired stitch length. about 5 stitches.
Upper tension: normal. - Bring the zigzag width lever to the left and make some stitches in the same
Place lace edging to the hem of the fabric on which it is to be sewn, hole in order to tie up stitches.
Start sewing making sure that needle, while zigzagging, stitches through both
fabric and lace, If the button is a four-holed one, repeat the operation for the other two holes.

22 23
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NOTE: The accessories used in the sewing processes described below in 3i NARROW ROLLED HEM
paras. 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, are not included in the accessory box
and can be purchased through all NECCHI dealers. Needle position lever: in the centre.
Zigzag width fever: between n°1 and n° 3.
33. RAISED STITCH APPLIQUE Stitch length regulation knob: between
Needle position fever: in the centre. n° 1 and n° 2.
Zigzag width lever: adjust zigzag accord- Upper thread tension: normal.
ing to the thickness of the cord being used. Presser foot: zigzag hemmer (9000485),
Stitch length regulating knob: about red
square. I
Upper thread tension: rather loose.
Presser foot: cording presser foot (9200385). I

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38. HEMMING AND SEWING
. - Insert cord into the hole of cording foot,
then guide it from front to back underneath presser foot. ON LACE

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Commence sewing and follow the design carefully.
-Set ~achine as for narrow rolled
34. CONTRAST WORK APPLIQUE edges. '

'!~~~;~1:"~-<,
- After having made the first
Proceed as for raised stitch applique, with the exception of stitch length knob stitches, raise hemming. foot and
which can be regulated at will so that the zigzag stitches are spaced wide apart insert end of lace into slot of
so as to let cord appear in between.
hemming foot.
To obtain the desired contrast, the colour of the cord must be different from the
colour of needle thread. - Needle must always stitch both

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through lace and hem.
35. QUILTING
39. MONOGRAM AND EMBROIDERY WITH HOOP
Zigzag width lever: on zero.
Stitch length regulation knob: set for
desired length. The hoop is used for perfect stretching of
Upper thread tens ion: normal. the fabric.
Presser foot: use metal zigzag stitch Needle position lever: in the centre.
foot ( 1376393) and attach it to m~- ..... ___-~ ... .. _.-
chine together with adjustable quilt-
ing guide (9400055 not included in _..-.--··
_,--· · 1 Zigzag width fever: on zero.
Stitch length regulation knob: on zero .
accessory box). • · _.- Upper thread tension: rather loose.
Regolate position of quilting guide in accordance with the desired distance be- Feed dog: lowered. ?
tween two parallel lines of stitches. - Remove the foot and lower the needle bar
Sew first left line, then move fabric toward the right so that guide bar is direct- lever.
1y over first Iine. ·Sew at reduced speed, moving hoop by
hand, according to the pattern to be
36. FINGER-GUARD performed.
This accessory (9963120) prevents you from putting inadvertently your fingers The hoop is to be moved with the needle
under the needle. out of fabric.

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40. DARN'IHG • Insert a woollen thread into the
special hole of presser fqot and fix
Darning is facilitated by the use of the special foot (9350015) which is used in
it with a few stitches at the uoper
place of the norma.1 presser foot.
lefthend corner of the area to be
darned.

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

If you downloaded this from anywhere
A 8
I
• Start darning by moving fabric
slowly from right to left and vice·
versa.
·After having covered the area with
Needle position lever: in· the centre.
woollen thread, reinforce with a

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Zigzag width lever: on zero.
few stitches and cut it.
Upper thread tension: normal.
Feed dog: lowered.
·Start machine and move the fabric by hand from right to left and viceversa
alternately, so as to cover the whole area to be darned with a weft of a great
density of stitches (fig. A).
·Then moving the fabric back and forth alternately add a second dense
transversal weft of stitches (fig. B).
N.B. • It is essential to maintain the fabric firmly strefrhed under the presser
foot when darning.
ff large tears are to be darned, it is advisable to use an embroidery hoop.

DARNING WITH WOOLLEN THREAD

Woollen thread is useful for darning stretch fabrics and is essential for darning
knitwear: socks, stockings, pullovers etc.
Thread machine with normal darning thread, ·With normal thread, slowly execute
Zigzag width lever: on n° 4. a series of zigzag rows moving
Feed dog: lowered. fabric slowly back and forth.

26 27

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 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
41. TO ATTACH ZIPPERS 4~. AUTOMATIC SEWING

v For attaching zippers, use the special foot

HOW TO USE THE CAM-GROUPS •

(9200215). .

•
These cam·groups ate already formgd, and you have only
Needle position /ever: in the centre .
to insert them onto the automatic device a"ccording to the .

Zigzag width lever: on zero. instructions given · in the. following paragraphs to obtain
. the desired embroider ies.
Stitch length regulation button: set on desir·
ed stitch length.

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

Needle plate: set on position U (see para.

If you downloaded this from anywhere

19). TO INSERT CAM GROUPS
INTO MACHINE
·Attach zipper-foot. M
~ ~\-----
• By loosening . screw V adjust presser foot
sidewards until needle enters in right cut-
out D, then fasten screw V.
·Open lid M.
• Bring needle· bar to highest po·
sition. =-"'" .. .,,.=u ..._

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• Move . lever L to the left.
·Place the zipper on the right of the needle.
·Slip ca111 group on cam driving
Place fabric with folded edge on zipper
pin N.
edge as shown in. the figure; then execute
the first seam.

·Again loosen screw V, adjust presser foot

sidewards until needle enters in left cut-out
S, then fasten screw V.
·~
If the cam group has a rectan·
gular hole, make sure that . the
top end of pin N enters it en·
ti rely.

•Move fabric in order to have zipper on the left of the needle, place on zipper
the other folded edge and execute the second seam. ~ A

28 29
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
L If, instead, the hole of the cam group To decrease the forward stitch length and T E
@vp
~ j~~e
is circular, be sure that prong P of increase the reverse stitch length, turn
knob E towards «-».
lower cam enters in slot R of the --
automatic device. To increase the forward stitch length and
decrease the reverse stitch length, turn
R
• Lower the lid. knob E towards « +».

- Move lever L to the right so that

~"
it is flat on the machine arm,

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

- Turn knob A on desired mark,
A

DESIGN GRADUATING KNOB

If you downloaded this from anywhere

Knob A permits to change the length of the designs.
1
TO REMOVE -.CAM GROUPS FROM MACHINE This effect is obtained without variations in the stitch density which remain s
unaltered,
·Open the lid.
Designs are lengthened by turning the knob from 1 to 4,
• Bring needle·bar to highest position.

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Knob A also allows to cut off the automatic mechanism, when sewing straight
• Move lever L to the left and remove cam group.
or zigzag,
•Move lever L back to the right.

NEVER FORGET TO BRING LEVER L TO THE RIGHT AFTER THE EX- •ill
TRACTION OF THE CAM GROUP.

TO EXCLUDE AUTOMATIC MECHANISM

KNOB FOR MINUTE ADJUSTMENT OF DESIGN

To obtain automatically certain stitches (like Turkish hemstitch, Paris stitch, •Bring take-up lever to highest position by turning bal·
etc.) for which the machine has to sew both forward and reverse, it is necessa ry once wheel towards you.
to make sure that the length of the forward stitches is absolutely identical to
·Turn knob A compretely to the right until triangular
that of the reverse st itches.
mark T appears through the small window.
This is done b y turning knob E.

Knob E is in its normal position when index T is set upwards as shown in To engage the automatic mechanism again, just turri
the figure, knob A on desired number (l ta 4).

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A E 43. EMBROIDER! ES AND 45. BUTTOHHOL ES
SPECIAL STITCHES
The special cam-group for buttonholes may be turned in respect .of its handle in
The fol lowing paragraphs two different positions: one for buttonholes on heavy fabrics (marked by a large
buttonhole) and the other for buttonholes ~n light fabrics (marked with a small
show the remarkable perfor-
buttonhole).
mances obtainable with some
of the cam-groups supplied To change from one position to the other:
with the machine and instruct • Press cam•group as shown in the figure and bring index G in correspondence
on how to set the needle po- with the desired buttonhole,
sitioning lever A, the zig- • When it is in the correct pos i·

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

D
zag width lever B, the tion, a click will be heard and
PJWYl#Ai'!I stitch length regulating knob the cam group wi II lock.

If you downloaded this from anywhere

C, the design graduating
knob D and knob E for Set machine as follows:
minute adjustment of de-
Design graduating knob: on
signs.
triangle,
..,_. ~ ~~ Needle position lever: on the
left •

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• f

44. GREEK KEY Zigzag width /ever: on 0.

Stitch length regulating knob: be-
Insert cam group I (9660632), tween O.S and the red mark.

Design graduating knob: on No. 1. Upper tension: normal.

Knob for minute feed adjustment of
Needle position lever: on the left.
designs: in normal position,
Zigzag width lever: on 0.
Needle plate: in position U (see
Stitch length regulating knob: on No, paragraph 19).
4. Presser foot: trans parent for em•
Needle plate: in position U (see para· broidering with guide for button-
graph 19), holes (9310273),
Needle: for light fabrics No. 70;
Presser foot: transparent for embroidery (9SS086S).
for heavy fabrics No, 90,
Thread: embroidery thread No. 30 or SO.
Thread: mercerized cotton No, 80
Knob for minute adjustment of designs: rotate towards left or right until proper or No, 60 or embroidery thread
forth- and backward movement of the fabric is obtained. No.SO,

32 33
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
- With needle at highest position, move
• Regulate position of presser foot handle to position 4 and make second
guide in accordance with the desir• . row of stitches stop with needle out
of fabric when reaching the end of
=
ed length of buttonholes,
the first row of stitches.
• ln~ert cam group into machine and, =
;;:;;;;
·With needle at highest position, move
with the needle in its highest posi·
handle to position 5 and make lower
tion, bring handle completely to the bar tack with 6 or 7 stitches,
left (position l), Buttonhole is then completed.
To lock stitches move handle back to
- Start machine and make upper bar
position 3 and, holding slightly the
tack with 6 or 7 stitches,
fabric with left hand, sew a few stitches

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

turning balance wheel by hand.
• Lift presser foot, remove work and

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cut the threads.
I
- With needle at highest position, RAISED BUTTONHOLES
move handle to position 2 and make WITH A GIMP THREAD
= first row of stitches; stop when
Set the machine as indicated above. S
upper bar tack is in contact with

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Then hook the gimp thread (pearled cotton n° 8 or a similar one) over pin A situ•
presser foot guide. ated in rear end of buttonholing foot
and bring both ends of thread in para I·
lel underneath base of foot,
2 Lower the foot and make the button•
hole as pointed out above, taking core
that the . latera I rows of stitches cover
the gimp thread.
When buttonhole is fi~ished, pull one
end of the gimp in order that the loop
I - Wi~h needle at highest position, on pin A appears under the bar•tack.
I
I move handle to position 3; machine Finally knot the two ends of gimp
I
_,I will sew in reverse with straight thread under the bar·tack and cut off
stitches, l.oose ends.

Stop when needle reaches upper bar

tack. Cut fabric between the two rows of
stitches with NECCHI buttonhole cut-
' ter (9960454).
3
35
34
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
46. SCALLOPS 49. TURKISH HEMSTITCH

Insert cam group no. VI, Insert cam group XXXI.

Design graduating knob: from 2 to 4 Design graduating knob: on triangular mark.
according to desired length of scallop. Needle position lever: in left notch.
Needle position lever: in left notch.
Zigzag width lever: on O.
Zigzag width lever: on 2 or more.
Stitch length regulating knob: on 4.
Stitch length regulating knob: be-
tween 0.5 and the red mark. Upper tension: normal.
Needle plate: in position U (see para- Lower tension: tighter than upper tension.
graph 19), Needle: in order to obtain a perfect stitch,
Presser foot: transparent for embroidery it is recommended to use a large diameter

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

(no. 9950865), needle,
Tension: normal. Presser foot: transparent for embroidery (no. 9950865).
Thread: embroidery thread no. 30 or 50. Knob for minute adjustment of designs: turn slightly towards + or - until

If you downloaded this from anywhere

forward and reverse stitches have exactly the same length.
47. STRETCH STITCH
This condition is obtained when the needle always enters the holes already
The stretch stitch is a must for sewing made, It is recommended that the correct position of the knob be found by mak·
on elastic or knitted fabric. ing a tria I on a scrap of fabric similar to the one in use,
Insert cam group no. XXI. '
Design graduating knob: on No.1. D
Needle position lever: in left notch, D
C1 50. FOUR .POINTS STITCH

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Zigzag width lever: on 0, D
Stitch length regulating knob: on red 0
0 Insert cam group XLI.
mar'k . D
Needle plate: in position U (see para• D Set machine as indicated in preceding paragraph
graph 19). ·O (Turkish Hemstitch).
D
Pre~ser foot: metal zigzag foot (1376393). 0
Tens ion: normal. D
D
48. OVERLOCK STITCH 0
0
Insert cam group No. XUX (9666042).
Design graduating knob: on triangular
mark. 51. PARIS STITCH
/\/eedle position lever: in left notch.
Zigzag width lever: on 0.
Insert cam group XXXlll.
Stitch length regulating knob: on No. 4.
Set machine as indicated ,in paragraph m>.48
Needle plate: position U (see para.19).
Presser foot: metallic for zigzag (Turkish Hemstitch). 3

~
(1376393). The Turkish Hemstitch, the Four Points
Tension: normal. Stitch and the Paris Stitch are elegant motifs
Knob for minute adjustment of designs: when used for decorative or practical pur·
on mark (-). poses, such as application of lace . ,
For overlock stitching use low speed. •

36 37

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 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
52. SMOCK STITCH - Sew at medium speed so that the
upper edge rer.nains in contact with
This stitch gives the best results on light
fabrics. the guide. Screw F of the guide is
Set. the machine as for sewing with twin used to regulate depth of bite so that
needle (see pO'ra. 26), Cam group IV. stitch remains always invisible on
Design graduating knob: on 1. right side of fabric.
Needle positioning lever: in left notch.
Zigzag width lever: on 0,
Stitch length regulating knob: on 0.5. 54. SHELL STITCH
Upper tension: rather tight (4 and 5),
Lower tension: rather tight. Insert cam group XXXll.
Embroidery thread: No. 50.

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

Make parallel sewings managing that every Design graduating knob: on triangular
extremity of same be Hned .up with all the mark.

If you downloaded this from anywhere

previous ones, If necessary, correct the di·
Needle position lever: in left notch.
rection of sewing guiding the fabric by hand,
Zigzag width lever: on 0,
Stitch length regulating knob: from l up t. o
53. BLIHDSTITCHIHG 2.5, thus allowing different lengths of
Blindstitching, particularly used for hemming, enables t.o join two pieces of scallops.
material so that stitches appear on one side only. Needle plate: in position U (see para.19),

Machines Facebook Group.

Insert cam group XXXll. Presser foot: transparent for embroidery
Design graduating knob: on triangular mark.• (9550865).
Needle position /ever: in left notch. Upper tension: rather tight.
Zigzag width /ever: on 0,
Lower tension: very tight.
Stitch length regulating knob: at your discretion.
Needle plate: in posit ion U (see paragraph 19). Place fabric under presser foot so that the portion to be hemmed is on your left,
Presser foot: metal zigzag foot (1376393) with blindstitching guic;le (9450295). Guide fabric by hand making sure that the stitches on the left interlock off the
Tension: normal. edge of the hem,

Wrong side of material

55. CAM GROUPS

The following ii lustrations show the designs obtainable with some of the cam
- Fold the fabric as shown in the
figure; the distance between the two groups supplied with the machine.
folded edges must be of 2 to 3 mm.
The relevant machine setting in given next to each design.

The designs marked by an asterisk (*) are illustrated in the preceding para·
graphs.

38 39
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
MAINTENANCE OF MACHINE

~1 II
AB~
Cam me
A B c 0 E
~~,m The sewing machine is a product of high-precision mechanics and, to make it
Nt. last for many years in perfect condition, requires a periodical maintenance
which you as a user can take care of.
I 1 r.m.n 0 4 *~
II
III
•
1
r.t.hn
r.m.n
0
0
•
4
* l:S~"lS''"t::S
m1~:::::::::::::::::::~n
....0-1.:5-{,5···?.5-l:S'....?,5"-
Maintenance means especially cleaning and oiling.
WARNING: Always remove plug from wall outlet whenever you ore going to

IV 1 r.m.n - . 2
• l~11,,111llllfi111it'"'11,-11-liti111itt'....... 1111htt1111111,,~11tit,,,111lillr1111
carry out the maintenance of your machine.

VI r.m.n • *l'"\t"'"''V'""'it.rt"'"V11'~,•''"'"it'"Ulti,1itt""i..if4'"''1,11

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

2,5 2
vn 1+4 r.u-tn 0 4
r.m.n
•

If you downloaded this from anywhere

.IX 2 0 l'"'\ilh~m\dbl'"'.lftl~ 56. TO CLEAN THE MACHINE
. x· 1 r.tnil 0 1 ~
'XI 2 r.m.n 0 4 ~
The parts of the machine which need to be cleaned most frequently are: the area
oround the needle plate and feed dog, and the shuttle area.
XII 1 r.m.n 0 1,5 ~
XIII 1 r.m.n 0 1 ~
XIV 3 r.tnn 0 4 ~

Machines Facebook Group.

XVII 1 r.tn.n 0 W·•·te111'··-·-~llM11"·¥·•-·
a) To clean the feed dog and the
XXl 1 r.m.n 0
• ·~ needle plate housing
XXJI 3,5 ruelSl 0 • ...nlli1-•Ulli1·•Ull.""111111"'"111Q<41111i.....Wl .......·""111J

xxm 3,5 r.tn.n 0

• _........
•...aft111111...... 11Rllll1Jt-Alllilln~....... - Remove needle and presser foot •
XXXI
• r.tn.n 0 4 ·~~v~v~V/li!!!V~v~v~v~V!!!V~V~Vfli~f,_ • Open slide plate towards left. E
XXXII
• r.m.n 0 2
·~
• Press lever E completely and
XXXIIJ -
XL
• r.Ln.h
n.r.tn
0
0
4
--· ··~!:JY~QQ!:JYQQQQQ1=!\:!QQQQQ1=!\:!~ remove needle plate with centra I
pin G.
' 4

--·
~-------------------~

.
·Carefully clean with a small
XLl
·~
...........
r.tfl..fl 0
XLm 2 ' n.r.Lfl 0
4

• ••~••+-11n11-+++..-
brush feed-dog teeth and feed-
dog support as well as needle
XLIV 2 nr.tn 0
• ......
plate housing. .
XLV
XLVI
3
2,5
r.tn.n
r.t.n.Il -
0
0
•
4
.............................
'\.)\.~
~
• Press I ever E completely,
order to hook central pin G,
in
and replace · needle plate by turning it around
XLVII 2 r.t.n.Il 0 4 ~ until the desired position is under needle.
XLVDJ -3,5 r.t.n.:n 0 4
_,,.....,.. iL.il-I'"1..iZ-iLS"l.r'~
I
Make sure that locating pin F enters the corresponding hole in the plate.
XLIX -
' r.ulJI 0 4
--· *~ - Replace presser foot and needle, and close slide plate.

41
40
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
-Oiling -makes the machine run
b) To clean the shuttle
smoother, faster and noiselessly and
• Bring needle to its highest position. .Protects the moving parts from wear, "".
provided the oi I used is of a suitable
- Tilt machine bock on its hinges.
type.
".,
- Extract bobbin case. 11
- Push spring Z sideways with thumb - Always use NECCHIOIL, especially 11
<O
of right hand. created for the NECCHI sewing ma- <O
- Swing hinged race plate T open. chines.
• Extract shuttle R. You will find it at all NECCHI
·Carefully clean the shuttle race with

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

dealers. A few drops of NECCHIOIL
a small brush and put a drop of oi I T R at points shown in these figures
in. Also oil the rim of the shuttle.

If you downloaded this from anywhere

after every cleaning are sufficient,
• Replace shuttle.
·Fit race plate onto the three short positioning studs on the shuttle race and
press unti I the spring blocks it in its housing.
·Replace bobbin case and lower machine to working position.

Machines Facebook Group.

57. OILING

·Before storing the machine 1away for a long period clean and oil it; when you
use it again repeat the lubrication.
• From time to time oi I shuttle rim and shuttle race.

42 43
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
58. TO REPLACE LIGHT BULB i) sewing is started with thread take-~p
lever not in itS highest position;
• Remove plug from wall outlet before changing light bulb, then open front plate.
I) shuttle has burr due to being hit by
·Hold the bulb, press upward, needle;
turn it in the direction of the
arrow, and remove it (fig.A). m) shuttle race damaged.

- Hold the new bulb in the same

manner, insert the so.c ket into
the lamp holder, making the
w I, Needle breaks a) Fabric is pu lied by hon~: need le hits

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

prongs enter the two grooves needle plate;
(fig. B). b) needle is bent or blunt.

If you downloaded this from anywhere

- Push the light bulb upward.
Jr-+ I I
®
·Turn it in the direction of the
---
arrow.
- Then close front plate again. l I Lower thread breaks a) Thread tension is too tight;
b) bobbin is ' not evenly filled or is too full;
c) dirt or lint in bobbin case.

Machines Facebook Group.

Imperfect stitches a) Insufficient pressure of foot on fabric;

59. CAUSES OF MIHOR TROUBLES b) feed dog too low;

c) fabric is pulled by hand;
Troubles Possible causes
d) stitch is too short;

Upper thread breaks a) Needle is inserted incorrectly; e) needle not suitable for thread.

b) machine is improperly threaded;

c) thread tension is too tight or too loose; Skip stitches a) Needle is inserted incorrectly;
d) thread is not suitable for fabrk; b) needle is bent or blunt;
e) needle is not suitable for thread; c) thread is too heavy for the size of nee•
f) needle eye is rough or. sharp; die;
g) needle point is damaged; d) needle is Gf wrong size for thread in
h) machine is started at full speed; use.

44 45
 Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing
Machine does not sew AP PENDIX: HOW TO TRANSFORM TREADLE-MACHINE
straight stitch a) Zigzag width lever .is not set com- INTO MOTORDRIVEH MACHINE, AHO VICEVERSA
pletely on zero;
b) cam group has not been ·r emoved from
• Unscrew completely screw A and
machine.
remove plate B.
Heavy turning or jamming
• Loosen both screws E.
of machine a) Machine is not clean, or not·lubricated,
•Unscrew knob F, turning in direction
or lubricated with wrong type of oi I; of arrow.
b) motor be It is too tight.

·~
·Move balance wheel G with

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

counterweight H to the left,
~ight does not go on a) Line has no current (check fuses and without removing it completely, and

If you downloaded this from anywhere

B
master switch); retrieve the Ieather belt from
b) plug is not well inserted in its recep~ the pulley.

tacle; • Since the leather belt runs in holes

M and N, for complete removal
c) filament of bulb is broken.
unhook fastening claw at end of belt.
· Slip rubber belt C on balance wheel ~ N
Motor turns too slowly a) A piece of thread is caught in shuttle
without inserting it in its race, but

Machines Facebook Group.

race; resting it on shaft.
b) motor belt is too tight; ·First slide belt on motor pulley D then on balance wheel which is turned
c) machine is not lubricated. with one hand while the other forces belt in its race.
Overheating of motor ·Push balance wheel G and counterweight H completely towards machine
and foot-control All electrical equipments heat up when and make sure that tongue I enters in cut-out L of shaft.
running without causing damage. • Fasten knob F and tighten screws E completely.
Excessive heating can only be due to • Reassemble plate B and tighten screw A.
overloading or heavy turning of machine.
It can be eliminated by making the ma-
chine run more smoothly. NOTE: When inverting this
operation ( motordriven machine
IMPORTANT: It is possible that, after considerable use, the mechanical parts into treadle· ma chine) make sure
of the machine wi II require adjustment. If by referring to the aforementioned leather belt enters in holes M and
causes of trouble, you cannot bring your machine into good condition, call for G H N of machine base before hooking
your NECCHI dealers. He wi II put the machine into perfect working order. belt fastening claw.

46 47
 r

INDEX

Scanned and Uploaded to the Necchi Supernova Sewing

To ensure perfect functioning of Applique work • , , • Page 22
machine. 3 Hemstitching with drown threads • 23
To connect machine to wall out- Sewing on buttons , • , • 23
let 3 Raised stitch appl ique • ·, • 24
To start machine 4 Contrast work applique , , • 24
Lighting. 4 Qui /ting • , • , , • 24
To insert needle 4 Finger-guard, , , • • • 24
Recommended needle and threa.d Narrow rolled hem , • • • 25
sizes 5 Hemming Qlld sewing on lace • • 25

else, it was stolen from that group's files!

To thread machine 6 Monogram and embroidery with
To thread needle with threader 6 hoop , , , , • • • 25

If you downloaded this from anywhere

To wind empty bobbin 7 Doming, , , • , • • 26
To remove bobbin case 8 To attach zippers. • • • • 28
To insert bobbin into bobbin case 8 Automatic sewing. • • • • 29
To insert bobbin cose into shuttle 8 Embroideries and special stitches • 32
To draw bobbin thread 9 Greek key • • • • • • 32
To regulate pressure of presser Buttonholes 33

Machines Facebook Group.

foot 10 Scallops 36
To adjust tensions 10 Stretch stitch 36
To regulate stitch length 12 Overlock stitch • 36
To sew in reverse 12 Turkish he,:,, stitch 37
To drop feed dog • 12 Four points stitch 37
Three position needle·plate 13 Paris stitch • 37
Straight stitching. 14 Blindstitching 38
Basting, • 15 Shell stitch 39
Zigzag sewing 16 Cam groups 39
Zigzag embroidery 17 To clean the machine. 41
Circular s.ewing • 18 Oiling 42
Seams parallel t~ edge of fabric • 18 To replace light bulb. 44
Twin needle sewing • 19 Causes of min·o r troubles 44
Hemming 20 Appendix: how to transform tre1r
Overcasting • • 21 die-machine into motordriven ma-
Picot hem • 22 chine, and viceversa , 47